Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0 [Archive] - Page 8

nmtfan

06-06-2006, 04:30 AM

I recently purchased a Tsais rear exhaust (for the NMT2) thinking it would fit my NMT. The pipe is routed between the right rear shock and the rear shock tower, and due to the NMT shock towers being narrower than the NMT2's, the right rear shock is directly in the way of the pipe...Does anyone know if a NMT2 shock tower will bolt directly to my stock NMT diff housing or will that need to be replaced as well? Thanks in advance.

nmtfan

06-11-2006, 02:41 PM

well, my shock tower arrived yesterday and I'm happy to say that they do in fact fit and now so does my rear exhaust. Thanks everyone for the help! :rolleyes:

Dino451

06-12-2006, 05:08 AM

nmt2 shock towers are direct fits , suspension arms are direct fits. BUT they have there respective add ons to make them usabe. Such as the shock tower uses nuts and bolts to hold the shocks not a screws. The bumper is not needed for the front tower but youll want it. most of the drive trian is different/bigger so thats a big expense their. Most stuff thats fits on the MT 2 will fit the MT. My MT is more like a MT 1.5. All that Iam really missing is the radio tray pieces. but that will be later.

nmtfan

06-12-2006, 05:27 AM

Yeah I also had to buy the shock tower brace, body posts, and numerous screws. I ended up spending over 30 bucks just so my exhaust could fit, but looking at my truck now I feel it was worth it (I really wanted the rear exhaust).

Dino451

06-12-2006, 07:38 PM

I would think that kind of mod would hurt performance. Does the rear suspension have trouble moving due to something being in the way?

nmtfan

06-12-2006, 10:10 PM

No, my problem was that the pipe simply wouldn't fit due to the placement of the shock on the MT1 shock tower. The MT2 shock tower is a bit wider so it places the shock slightly further out, just enough to clear the pipe. I haven't actually got out to run it yet, but the suspension seems to function fine with no clearance issues. In fact when you press down on the chassis to compress the suspension, the shock actually moves further away from the pipe so there's no way the pipe could restrict the suspension travel. Anyways here's a link to the pipe, if you look at how the header is routed you might get a better idea.

http://www.tsais.com/products/exhaust/tunedpipes/10/E1019.html

KLH2004a

06-23-2006, 01:05 PM

Just letting you know that I am selling two of my MTs and one of them comes with a box of goodies/junk. There are also videos on one of the auctions.

$175 is now on ebay and closing soon! (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6066956962&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1[/url)

$225 truck is now on ebay! (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&item=120000989665&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1)

masterchief06

06-26-2006, 12:56 PM

Hello to all-

I just finished rebuilding my MT with pretty much all new parts, including some MT2 parts, but I also replaced the stocker chassis with the heavy duty one. Here's My problem- When I mount the .15 FE engine onto the new chassis, the spur gear and clutch bell mesh beautifully, but the brake disk and the Flywheel rub against each other to the point that the drivetrain binds up. :confused: Any ideas and/or suggestions? The Engine and Flywheel assembly is off of the stock MT, and I believe the center differential/brake assembly is off of the HPI MT2 stuff. I DO know that the MT2 and MT center assemblies are interchangeable, so that isn't the problem. Please help me out. I tried shimming the brake pad away from the center diff, which gave it clearance off of the flywheel, but on the same token it caused so much of a clearance that the brake cam would not even touch the brake pad even on full brakes. Thanks for any help you can provide

Mike

doesgo

06-26-2006, 01:12 PM

I'd move the brakes to the front of the center "diff" assembly. I had some clearance issues on mine when I did a big-block conversion and moving the brakes up front solved that particular issue.

masterchief06

06-26-2006, 01:14 PM

But then the brake linkage would be to short, right? Believe me I seriously considered doing that, but then that threw me off. If that is feasible, then I will do it tonight

Mike

doesgo

06-26-2006, 01:22 PM

Yeah, you just need to rework the linkage. It's not a direct swap, but it's not difficult. I guess its simplicity is in direct proportion to your experience level and the size of your stockpile of spare parts!

masterchief06

06-26-2006, 01:30 PM

Okay thats cool. I'll just have to buy some cut-to-fit threaded linkage wire and throw a z-bend in her. Thanks again and I'll let you know how it turns out. Any suggestions as far as essential upgrades to the truck? Thanks

Mike

doesgo

06-26-2006, 01:37 PM

Well, depends what you've got! I think the MT2 dogbones and slipper setup are essential, and the MT2 front bumper is great, but other than that you should be set. Oh, and if you're still running a .15FE you should plan to upgrade that at some point in the near future.

nmtfan

06-28-2006, 05:03 AM

Does anyone know if T-maxx shocks are a direct fit for a nmt/nmt2?

masterchief06

06-28-2006, 07:19 AM

Im gonna try tonight and if they are Ill post and let you know

Mike

nmtfan

06-29-2006, 12:42 AM

I was thinking about getting these T-Maxx shocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001065145&I=LXANU0&P=K) instead of these HPI ones (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHSR5&P=7), since they're way cheaper.

masterchief06

06-29-2006, 07:19 AM

I would try it, but the bottom of the shock may not fit into the A-Arms. May require some mods, but I'm 100% positive it can and already has been done

Mike

01sesedan

07-21-2006, 12:59 PM

Getting back to work on the truck... Does anyone know if the MT2 arms fit the truck without modifications?

Thanks...

nmtfan

07-26-2006, 01:29 AM

I'm pretty sure they will fit without modifications, but they're wider so you might need the longer nmt2 shocks (or anything of comparable length) to get the right suspension geometry.

01sesedan

07-26-2006, 08:45 AM

How about the dogbones, would they have to be longer also?
Thanks..

doesgo

07-26-2006, 10:20 AM

The dogbones are the same length, but larger in diameter (including the ends), which requires that you use MT2 outdrives and axle stubs. The MT2 rear arms appear to be the same as the original arms (I compared them visually off the truck, but haven't actually installed MT2 rears on my NMT).

The front arms are different, however. They're longer, although the hub is in the same place relative to the truck, it's just that the connection point to the upright is farther out, and I'm not absolutely sure if the pins connecting the uprights to the arms are the same. This means the uprights/C-hubs are different as well. Also, the MT2 front arms don't have holes for shock mounting, since MT2 shocks mount to the upright/C-hub.

Therefore, you can run MT2 arms as long as you run MT2 uprights and can figure out a way to attach your front shocks.

YtDiamond05

07-26-2006, 10:28 AM

Will this motor be a direct drop into a MT? If not what would need to be done for it to fit.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=ML

doesgo

07-26-2006, 10:36 AM

Yes, as long as you have HPI's optional separate engine mounts. Also, that engine can be found slightly cheaper here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=196_195&products_id=880).

YtDiamond05

07-26-2006, 01:07 PM

Oh ok , cool deal. Do you know where I could pick up the original engine mounts?

doesgo

07-26-2006, 01:34 PM

You mean the separate mounts for engines that don't have the tapped holes in the block like the .15FE, right?

You know.....I might have a set I could give you, actually. I converted my NMT to a big-block so I no longer need them. I can check in 3-4 hours. If I've got them, they're yours.

YtDiamond05

07-26-2006, 03:08 PM

Awesome bro.

Say I were to go with a 21 big block, would there be alot of modification needed?

doesgo

07-26-2006, 03:46 PM

Depends how much you want to do yourself. I just used 1/8-scale buggy mounts, bolted them to the big-block with the clutch bell and spur gear I wanted, set the engine in the chassis appropriately, marked the locations of the mounts, marked the locations of the mount holes, and drilled the chassis. It worked great, never blows spur gears. Unfortunately it's not adjustable because I have holes rather than slots, and I can't change the gearing either. That hasn't been a problem because I like the gearing, but I'll probably turn the holes into slots soon so it's more adjustable.

I've got pics of it posted somewhere showing what was done, I'll repost them here. I'm running a Savage header, big-block pipe (RB 086 in this case), I added a 125cc OFNA buggy tank and had to alter the throttle/brake linkage a bit for the slide carb, but it was surprisingly easy. Oh, I'm also running a doubled stock chassis plate for strength and 1/8-scale buggy shocks to handle the weight of the big tank, big-block, and double chassis.

doesgo

07-26-2006, 03:47 PM

You don't have to do ALL those mods for the conversion, though. The only thing you really have to do is the mounting and throttle linkage mods. The tank, shocks, and chassis are all for increased runtime and durability.

t9dragon

07-26-2006, 04:10 PM

I would like to see pics of how you did the conversion.

doesgo

07-26-2006, 05:16 PM

Here are the pics of my dirty, nasty NMT after the big-block conversion, and apparently after I had run it for a while. It's not got a different engine and I've since moved the brakes to the front of the spur, but it's mostly the same as in these pictures....and probably still as dirty! The pics aren't the greatest, let me know if you want something better or more detailed. Links to the full-size pics are below the pics. I've got specific (and much cleaner) 125cc tank conversion pics if you want them, too.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb1s.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb2s.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb4s.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb5s.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb6s.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb7s.jpg

Picture 1 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb1.jpg)
Picture 2 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb2.jpg)
Picture 4 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb4.jpg)
Picture 5 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb5.jpg)
Picture 6 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb6.jpg)
Picture 7 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmtbb7.jpg)

doesgo

07-26-2006, 05:30 PM

Awesome bro.

Say I were to go with a 21 big block, would there be alot of modification needed?

I found the mounts, so if you're going to stick with a small-block, send me an e-mail at doesgo@slapmafro.com or PM me with your address so I can get those mounts sent out to you.

Is your truck basically stock right now?

maddmic

08-07-2006, 02:19 AM

Hey all, I am brand new to the forums. I've owned my MT since about 2000 (I think that's when I purchased it). It's been in a box for the last 5 years though as I have had zero time to mess with it. I pulled it out of mothball and have had a friend of mine get it up and running again.

Now that the truck is no longer produced I feel like I have to come up with creative ways to keep it running as I now have the bug again and no $ for a new truck.

My questions to you all.....

I had some major problems with my front arms snapping when running into things. Short of not running into things, does anybody have a fix for this? I had thought about aluminum arms, but I was always concerned with them bending.

I would like an option on a cheap and easy engine upgrade. I have looked at the .18s but I figure if I'm going to drop the money on those, why not try a .21? Thoughts?

Are there any mods that I can take from the MT2 easily? As things break, I'd like to replace them w/ more readily available parts. I'm not asking for it to fit like it was made for the MT, just something that I can make work with light modifications. (Dremel, hammer, bolts, etc.)

Does anything from the Savage move over nicely? (For that matter any other monster truck) Here again, I'm not looking for perfect, made to fit parts. Just something to move to should things break and become unreplaceable.

I have enjoyed my truck to date, even if I ran it only for a year. I have noticed a huge drop off in parts available for the MT on ebay. Hence why I am asking the questions. If you're looking at my post wondering why I'm looking for Stadium upgrades/parts as well as monster truck parts, it's because I like to be as versitile as I can be w/o buying another specific truck.

Thanks for the help and suggestions in advance!

maddmic

08-07-2006, 02:21 AM

Oh, and Doesgo, why the double chasis?

Sorry for the elementary questions. I really am a novice when it coems to all this.

doesgo

08-07-2006, 06:11 AM

Get the MT2 bumper! It'll help protect the truck when running into things. Might require a little customization when installing your shocks, but it's a great bumper and well worth the time and effort to install. I'd stay away from aluminum arms.

Cheap, easy, and powerful = O.S. .18CV-R (non-pullstart) (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=196_195&products_id=879) or .18CV-RX (pullstart) (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=196_195&products_id=880). Great power, low cost, legendary O.S. reliability. And it's essentially a direct drop-in, no mods required. .21s aren't that difficult to install, but they're not all that simple, either.

The best items from the MT2, in my opinion, are the front bumper, slipper clutch, and the dogbones. The first two can be installed pretty easily by themselves and are rather inexpensive. The dogbones, however, require MT2 diff outdrives, slipper outdrives, and axle stubs, which adds to the cost. If you start bending regular dogbones with regularity, however, I'd do the upgrade. Sure has saved me.

I can't think of anything from MTs that'll swap to your NMT other than universal stuff like electronics and the Savage spur gear (if you get the MT2 slipper setup). Oh, the 125cc buggy tank (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_135&products_id=38) is a popular hop-up for NMTs, too.

As for the double chassis, it's for durability/strength. I had two stock chassis plates on hand and decided that slapping them together would be as effective and far cheaper than buying a Powerline chassis. I was installing a .21 and already had the 125cc tank and I like to bash hard, so I wasn't concerned about the added weight from a power standpoint, and welcomed the added strength.

redlined_man

08-10-2006, 11:26 PM

Hello everyone. I just recently got a mt from a guy at work and installed a OS .18 cv-rx on it. My questions are these:

1) Where can I get a flywheel for it? Links would be great.
2) When I am looking for parts, where do I look?
3) What other trucks are interchangable with the mt? I have the Nitro MT Racer (discontinued)
4) What is the temp range on the cv-rx? I have only had TRX engines up till now so I dont know anything about OS engines.
Any help with the or info would be great. Thanks.

Redlined Man

maddmic

08-11-2006, 11:12 PM

Get the MT2 bumper! It'll help protect the truck when running into things. Might require a little customization when installing your shocks, but it's a great bumper and well worth the time and effort to install.

Ok, Doesgo, I got the bumper today. It looks significantly different than the one in your pics though. I think the package of parts is numbered 8573. Can you give me a shot of the front from underneath to see how you modified the bumper to fit your chasis?

Thanks!

doesgo

08-11-2006, 11:17 PM

I'll try, but I won't be able to tonight. No mods were necessary, but I did have to use the MT2 shock tower and possibly the diff holder base thingy. I think it all came in the same package though, didn't it? If not, I apologize! I thought it was all in one package.

t9dragon

08-13-2006, 12:56 AM

redlined_man

08-13-2006, 11:44 AM

The website doesnt help much since the kit that I have is discontinued. HPI also doesnt give info about OS engines.The flywheel that HPI has for the kit I have wont work, it says so on the product page on tower hobbies. Thanks.

Redlined Man

doesgo

08-13-2006, 01:22 PM

Why won't the HPI flywheel work? I mean, what part doesn't work, is it the alignment, size, or what? Your engine has a threaded crank, right? That's the flywheel I used (the HPI one) in my NMT on my Fantom .15 and O.S. .15 engines, no problems at all.

nmtfan

08-15-2006, 09:56 PM

The full Nitro MT manual is still online and can be used to get the part #s you need. Once you have that, all you need to do is go to the Tower Hobbies website (http://www.towerhobbies.com/) and enter it (the part #, not the part description) into the search. Ninety-nine percent of the time it will pop up.

edit: I would link the manual but HPI's site uses frames. Go to Instructions/Kit Instructions/Manuals/Nitro RS4 MT

01sesedan

08-19-2006, 05:47 PM

I don't know what the heck is going on. After installing the new motor mounts, I line it up and the clutch bell doesn't touch all of the spur gear. A very small amount of the spur gear is untouched. Now the flywheel is touching the brakes. At the moment, I moved them to the front. Now I'm trying to figure out the linkage but that shouln't be a problem, I hope.

Where is the correct location on the crank to shim the clutch bell out further to make full contact with the spur gear? Is it against the crank bearing? Don't know if it will leave enough surface for the collet to grab on to?

Thanks for your help...

01sesedan

08-20-2006, 03:33 PM

got it....

KLH2004a

10-18-2006, 11:20 PM

Why do I keep cleaning the teeth of of spur gears? Is it because of chassis flex, stuff hitting from underneath? I have always had problems with the MT eating gears :/ Is there a metal alternative available?

doesgo

10-18-2006, 11:26 PM

Is it an original NMT or MT2? I've got a new steel spur for sale for an original NMT if you're interested.

KLH2004a

10-18-2006, 11:38 PM

it is the original, and I am interested. Could I get a pic of the piece? And what kind of price are you looking for? When did you get it or how was it made?

Thanks;
Kyle

doesgo

10-18-2006, 11:44 PM

I thought I had a picture of it, but I can't find it. I'll take one and get it hosted and posted tomorrow. I'd like $15 for it, it's new. I bought it from a guy who used to deal a lot with NMTs a couple years ago, but then he got out of it. I can't remember his name or screen name offhand. I think he used a spur for something else and machined it for use on the NMT. You'll see the machining marks on it when I get the picture. It's a nice piece, I just don't need it.

KLH2004a

10-19-2006, 12:08 PM

Well I would like to buy this, if you will promise me that it will work :) Please send a picture along with details as to how I can pay you.

Thank-you;
Kyle Hunter
KLH2004a@aol.com

doesgo

10-19-2006, 01:04 PM

LOL! Yeah, it'll work. Well, I guess I assumed you have the NMT slipper setup. Do you? If so, it'll work. If not, it won't.

I've actually got two of the steel gears. I had one installed and working great, then I heard the guy stopped making them and was selling them all off, so I bought another just in case. The first one proved so durable, however, that I'll never need the second one.

I'll send you pics this evening to your e-mail account and we can take it from there. Thanks.

eib

10-30-2006, 01:19 AM

Hey, I have an origional Nitro MT and look forward to replacing it with the OS .18 cv-rx mentioned earlier in the forum, but I can't find a metal spur gear. Can you point me in the right direction to find the guy you got it from. I read a post from a guy called M16-A2, was that him? and how do you directly contact members if that is.

doesgo

10-30-2006, 08:15 PM

YES!!! It was M16, thanks for reminding me. Last I heard he quit making them a couple years ago, not sure if he has any left. I just sold my last two, too.

eib

10-30-2006, 11:39 PM

How would I contact M-16, is there some way I could get his E-mail?

doesgo

10-30-2006, 11:47 PM

Sorry man, I have no idea.

eib

10-31-2006, 05:11 PM

Hey, do you know which parts are good to try to find in metal, carbon fiber or graphite?

doesgo

10-31-2006, 08:17 PM

Different people will have different opinions, of course, but I'd start with a graphite or aluminum upper deck. Really adds some much-needed chassis stiffness. I'd also add an MT2 front bumper/shock tower, really helps protect things. I'd keep the majority of the rest relatively stock and put money into a larger fuel tank, good servos, good clutch, and a nice engine.

eib

11-01-2006, 06:14 PM

Thanks, where can I find an engine mount/adaptor

doesgo

11-01-2006, 06:33 PM

Are you currently running the .15FE engine?

eib

11-02-2006, 07:37 PM

I was, and I'm going to the o.s. I mentioned earlier that has the same high-mount points as most others.

doesgo

11-02-2006, 09:52 PM

You'll just need the engine to have a threaded crank and use the HPI #A893 engine mounts. They're less than $4.

KLH2004a

11-03-2006, 02:46 PM

. . .I just sold my last two, too.

I'll send you pics this evening to your e-mail account and we can take it from there. Thanks.

I never got the photo? And now you don't have the gear anymore? :mad:

doesgo

11-03-2006, 03:21 PM

I was contacted via e-mail by someone who bought my last two, I thought it was you! Sorry for the mix-up, KLH. I just found out, however, that I have access to a couple more. I'm not sure what tooth-count, either 49 or 52. Which do you want? I can get ahold of them Sunday, but I've got a picture now of what they actually look like. I can e-mail it or post it if you wish.

doesgo

11-03-2006, 09:40 PM

Here are a couple pics of the NMT steel spur. You must have the slipper clutch setup to use these steel gears. There are two currently available, $15 each plus shipping, they're brand new. I just need to determine the tooth count (they're not with me right now, I'll have them in my posession Sunday). KLH has dibs.

http://www.smfstore.com/images/nmtsteerspur1.jpg

http://www.smfstore.com/images/nmtsteerspur2.jpg

Jetskiboy77

11-06-2006, 01:24 AM

Wow, I havent been on this forum or ran my truck in such a long time, and I figured I would drop by and see whats going on. Props to doesgo, it seems like your doing a pretty good job answering every question that Ive seen asked in the last few pages. Dont know if anyone remembers me, but I am going to try and start my truck again as soon as I get some gas and try to start posting again.

KLH2004a

11-06-2006, 01:50 AM

Those looks sweet! Let me know when you have the tooth count.

Thanks;
Kyle

KLH2004a

11-06-2006, 01:59 AM

Also, selling one of my MTs. For fun, what does anyone think it will close at?

MT on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120049250939&rd=1&rd=1)

doesgo

11-06-2006, 07:05 AM

Here's a picture of the two gears remaining, one 52T and one 49T. You interested, KLH? $15 each plus shipping.

http://www.smfstore.com/images/NMTSteelGears.jpg

KLH2004a

11-06-2006, 09:38 AM

Yes, I want the 52T gear.

eib

11-06-2006, 11:24 AM

what is the stock tooth count doesgo, if the other is the same as stock, I'll take it

eib

11-06-2006, 11:25 AM

also, any favorite sites to go to for the engine mount you mentioned earlier

doesgo

11-06-2006, 11:30 AM

Stock is 52T. I think Tower has the engine mount.....actually I do as well. I've since switched to a big-block so I don't need them anymore.

eib

11-06-2006, 01:18 PM

If I could get your engine mount, I'd appreciate it. I've been scouring the internet for weeks trying to find one.

doesgo

11-06-2006, 02:03 PM

No problem. I'll send you a PM.

spincarez

12-20-2006, 04:38 PM

Hi,
i just wanted to know if you have'nt sold that spur gear then I am interested in buying it.
Please let me know.
Thank you and regards,

doesgo

12-20-2006, 05:47 PM

I did sell it, but I believe I have access to another with 49 teeth (stock is 52). Interested?

spincarez

12-21-2006, 07:44 AM

Sure. Please PM me for the details. Thank you

X-Tee Ha !

12-28-2006, 05:45 PM

Has anyone tried the RS4/3 Limited Slip Diff in the NMT ? (front) Or would that make it "push" through corners ? Still love the original NMT and might resurrect my old one but wonder whether to rebuild it with the front LSD diff from the RS4/3 ?

MACHINIST

01-03-2007, 11:28 PM

Anyone know if F4i is still in business? Looking to buy a titanium chassis and upper deck for my NMT 18SS and emailed them twice without any replies...

ripatune

02-16-2007, 02:21 PM

dcshoelover

02-16-2007, 04:43 PM

Plastic is really brittle in super cold. Also make sure everything is tightened down right. And meshed right.

Jetskiboy77

02-24-2007, 07:39 PM

Anyone know if F4i is still in business? Looking to buy a titanium chassis and upper deck for my NMT 18SS and emailed them twice without any replies...

Just checked his website, it seems like hes still around. I really recommend the chassis, I have it on my Gen1/Gen2 Hybrid.

Jetskiboy77

02-24-2007, 07:42 PM

I Gotta problem with my 2 speed. I replaced this spur gear yesterday believe it or not, and after about 5 minutes of running today this is what happened again 2 within 4 days. They are plastic and was really cold out (not sure if weather has an affect). Clutch bell is metal and spurs are plastic. Should i upgrade to hardened steel spurs or try something else first. Gear mesh seems to be fine. Any help would be great....

I think I have stripped the most gears out of everyone. After looking at your pic, that doesnt seem like its a bad mesh strip. It looks to me that it was cold out and you nailed the throttle, and the gears were too cold and brittle and just ripped the teeth right off.