Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0

[Lapster]

Hey guys, I am baffled right now. I have run my nmt the last 3 days and stripped 3 spur gears. I have checked teh gear mesh and I have looked to see if the spur is rubing on anything and it is not. If i do need to get an aluminum tell me where I can get the best gear,

[M16-A2]

A worn cluctch bell will cause the spur to strip faster, and so will a chassis that has any kind of bend to it.(if you've had a decent crash this could be the problem)

If you want to go to a steel spur gear you're going to need a slipper clutch first, as there isn't a company that makes the stock NMT spur gear.

[NMT4me]

Lapster,

You might check to make sure that you dont have the screw that holds the clutchbell on tightened too much. When I first got my truck, I cranked the screw down too tight and pinched the roller bearing. I was stripping spurs like crazy. Just a thought.

Also, just took some pics of my new paint job. Here's a couple shots for anyone who'd like to see.

[NMT4me]

oops! Forgot the pic.

[NMT4me]

Here's another

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by MAXX 2.5
a few diff q's..... what kind of grease to i pak the diffs with and how do you "shim" the diffs??? ne pics of the shiming would help


Here is a good link to diff mods......in the tips and mods section.Gimpys NMT (http://www.gimpysracing.cjb.net/)

[nitecrawler]

Originally posted by Mossdog
Here is a good link to diff mods......in the tips and mods section.Gimpys NMT (http://www.gimpysracing.cjb.net/)

Thanks for diff advice.
I think the O rings used to seal the outdrives will take care of the slop in the drives. Don't the o rings wear out pretty quick? How long do they last?

What are the reasons for replacing the needle bearing in the clutch with the 5x8 bearings?

What shock absorbers do people recommend? I would prefer ones with threaded bodies, for easy preload adjustments.

[NMT4me]

These shocks seem to be pretty popular:

Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ59&P=7

Back: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ60&P=7

Not the cheapest, but they fit the bill.

As for the needle bearing, it's supposed to be lubed frequently and theres some play in it. The flanged/non flanged bearings are definitely smoother, more reliable and do not require the maintenance that the needle bearing does.

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by M16-A2
there isn't a company that makes the stock NMT spur gear.

What about the people who create their own truck HPI. My lhs stocks the stock spur gear adn the slipper clutch. If anyone is looking for one you can buy it as my lhs at www.hobbyetc.com

[M16-A2]

If you read the whole statement we were talking about steel gears. The first part of the statement explained that a metal gear will need a slipper, but there is no metal replacement for the stock NMT spur gear.

[RCRACER2471]

I musta misread the post....

[nitecrawler]

does anyone know what the difference is between the HPI MIP CVD's (#80814/80815) and the MIP CVD's (#1274/1275) apart from the price?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the mips ones suck i think they are to short i had nothing but problems with them.

[Hicountry]

The problem I had with my diffs was the gears stripping. Just that the teeth on the gears stripped. Did not do it before the diff fluid. Did not do it when I quit running the diff fluid. The diff fluid and rather weak gears were the problem. Diff fluid bad for HPI!

To seal the diffs put the O-rings below the side gears. I use synthetic wheel bearing (Automotive) to grease my rc car parts. Works great in diffs as well.

To shim the side gears you will have to buy the gear set for the inside of the diff from HPI. About $5. HPI is incapable of giving you the correct shims even if you give them the part number and dimensions. More great customer service!! You can find the shims elsewhere if your lhs has a good supply.

To shim the pinion you may need an M7 metric washer. I lapped mine to make sure it was square and did not have any sharp shoulders.

Do not shim the side gears until there is no slop. When you put it together it will not turn. They can require different amounts of shim. Its a trial and error kind of thing.

Those shocks look great. My duratrax shocks are not that great.

I do not know about any difference in the CVDs. I have the MIP ones from MIP. I do not know the part number but they are for the NMT. They are great. The one part of my truck that has worked as advertised. Put lots of loctite on the pin and set screw. The only trouble my CVDs have had is being bent by sticks and rocks. The only reason (So I have read) that they will pop out of the front cups is if you did not keep the O-rings inside the cups. I have never had the problem, but then I never removed the O-rings. MIP CVDs are a must buy as is M16's steel spur gear!!

[M16-A2]

HiC do you use a metal spur?
Just curious how long you've been running yours if you use one?

[Mossdog]

HIC I agree and like the CVD's so far with my FE. You can go one step more on your next rebuild.....use a rotary tool and make a notch in the exact middle of the pin. It secures the pin better, and of course lots of loctite. I also grease them up good and slide a piece of 3/8 diameter heat shrink tubing over the end of the CVD end cup. Once heat is added it makes a nice CVD boot to keep out dirt and beneficial grease in.! You can see them here.

[Hicountry]

M16......you sold me the metal spur gear........I'm hurt!!

By the way it works great! About one gallon so far.

I have not needed to notch the CVD pins or use boots. Use loctite and they will not go anywhere. I have boot regular CVD boots on the back, but they do not stay on well.

Unless you have different CVDs than I do you can not heat shrink the front ones because the bearing race will push the heat shrink off of the end bell.

[M16-A2]

I thought I had sold you one, but as of this week I've sold over 250 of these gears. At that amount you can see why I don't remember each person that bought one :)

[Dirt Pilot]

For the front CVDs, put a dab of shoe goo on the ends, and make sure it dries. Thats what I did, and it seems to stay on there a pretty long time. I put 2 layers of heat shrink tubing on the rears. Ever since that, no more problems with the pins flying out. I really think it comes down to how you build them though. This is my first post on this board. I used to be on the HPI board before it went down, but now that I have my MP7.5, I don't drive my NMT very much anymore. Heres a few kind of bad quality pics.

1.
http://members.aol.com/jesgt1/images/oct14346.jpg

[Dirt Pilot]

2.
http://members.aol.com/jesgt1/images/oct14356.jpg

[Dirt Pilot]

and 3.
http://members.aol.com/jesgt1/images/sep25_84.jpg

[Mossdog]

Nice Truck Dirtpilot! 4Fi titanium abounds! Thanks for the tip for the front CVD's, I only recently got the fronts and havent run em yet (I atleast got em built!), one more excuse to break out the shoe-goo! :D In the future if you want to unload that NMT as a rolling chassis email me... Mossdog@trilordy.com Thanks.

[Hicountry]

WOW!!! 250 gears in a week. Boy did HPI miss that boat. The gear is definitly worth it.

Nice truck Dirt Pilot!

[Dirt Pilot]

If you reread M16's post, he said asof this week that he had sold 250 meaning since he first started selling them till now. Thanks for the compliments. I actually have been thinking of selling it. If I do decide to though, I'd rather sell everything at once to one person, as I have a lot of spare parts for it. That way also if someone who was just getting into RC bought it, they wouldn't need anything else. Who knows though, anything could happen.

[Mossdog]

In any case still let me know if you do decide to sell it!

[reignman]

i want to put a digital steering servo on my mt, what will i all need to do this or will it work with the stock recevier.

[Hicountry]

Thanks for your unsolicited input dirt pilot

[Dirt Pilot]

Calm down man. Mossdog asked if I was interested in selling my truck. No need to get nasty about it. And to answer your question reignman, yes a digital servo will work with your stock reciever, but the servo being digital won't make a difference. You would need to upgrade to a better radio. How much are you looking to spend? I bought an Airtronics 94757 for my MP7.5 and its great. It would be good in an NMT too. It's about $100 dollars. Transit time is .07 seconds, and torque is I think 112 ounces. If you are using regular alkaline batteries you'll need to upgrade to a rechargeable pack higher powered servos eat up alkalines really quick.

[reignman]

well i guess i will spend whatever i need to get this thing to run good, right now it will barely turn and glitches all the time.i put new batteries in and it does the same thing. my receiver looks like it is ready to break in half so i thought it may be the prob. i already have a new servo so i guess ineed to get a radio. will that come with a receiver or is that seperate.

[LearjetMinako]

I go away for a week and come back to see that this fourm has a almost a whole page lenght of replies. I'm impressed, but be sides that. I just got my pay back with the carb grass growing like crazy. Since HPI put the wrong screw in the manual book, I just now find this out when I did a complete rebuild not to long ago. And with the alklaline batteries eating my wallet every 500cc of fuel, plus the fact that, batteries die when you don't want them to. So I'm thinking upgrades are in order for the NMT. Here's the list with LHS prices.

Fail-Safe (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN2550) - $32.95
Rx Battery Pack (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDJW9&P=0) - $34.95 (May not be Orion but Trinity battery pack, but will be the same battery arrangement)
Steering Rack (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=nmt7013&FVPROFIL=++) - $24.95

I'll also be looking for a better clutch bell with BB instead on with needle bearings; and a smaller spur gear than 52t that will fit the shaft without a slipper clutch, I think HPI does make one that has 49t for their Super Rally car. The next upgrade is going to be shock towers for front and back, but if they brake while racing, at least they can be repaired easily.

[BigDaddi]

Hi everyone. I just recently bought an NMT and got it started this weekend. It is so much fun and it's my first RC car(err truck). I want to run it at my local off road track, which is a dirt track with multiple jumps. I want to know which upgrades I will need to do from the stock to be able to handle the track and the jumps. I figure you guys will allready know which things are going to break. Hope to hear some good advice and thanks in advance.

I have started through the old posts but have not covered all 63 pages yet.

[LearjetMinako]

BigDaddi: Probably the first thing that will break will be the front suspension arm. I switched to aluminum arms so this won't happen again, but the hinge pins will bend if hit hard enough. Do upgrades as needed to counter a problem.

I took a second look at the steering rack and decided that its not in too bad shape and I deal with it somehow. I didn't find a sure spur gear so I'll switch the clutch bell with AE 13-15t bell that has BB.

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by BigDaddi
Hi everyone. I just recently bought an NMT and got it started this weekend. It is so much fun and it's my first RC car(err truck). I want to run it at my local off road track, which is a dirt track with multiple jumps. I want to know which upgrades I will need to do from the stock to be able to handle the track and the jumps. I figure you guys will allready know which things are going to break. Hope to hear some good advice and thanks in advance.

I have started through the old posts but have not covered all 63 pages yet.

I would like to suggest these things based on what you say you are doing with the truck (assuming that it is stock right now)

Cheaper options:

Good airfilter/fuel filter/fuel line
Spare parts trees (HPI #A456 (2) A arms and A346 Shocktower/body posts).
(If you boil your A-arms for 5-10 Minutes it will allow them to flex a little bit and not snap in a crash, cheaper than aluminum and will give your truck a "weak point" to break if you do crash hard without worrying about other parts breaking )
Fiber brake Disk
Various shock oil WTs
Spare dogbones.

If you dont mind spending some cash...

Turnbuckles and ballcups (the stock plastic "camber links" always pop off! = lost dogbones and hassles!)
Shocks. Get some decent shocks (Kyosho Twin Caps are said to be the best option for tuneability and durability on the NMT) The stock shock caps WILL pop off!
Racing clutch
Slipper Clutch (saves the drivetrain and allows more gearing options!)
Aftermarket header and pipe (assuming you are running stock)
Aftermarket upper deck (either graphite or aluminum (or Titanium) this helps stiffen up the whole truck get rid of tons of evil flex!

The sky is the limit, the NMT is a good truck if you ask me, Have fun with it!

www.mossdog.freeservers.com



:cool:

[BigDaddi]

Can you run a racing clutch with a slipper clutch or is it an either/or scenario? If it is either or, what are each's strong suit?

Thanks for the advice guys.

[LearjetMinako]

You can run both the racing and slipper clutch. The slipper clutch goes in between the drive line where the spur gear is going to be attached. The racing clutch goes inside the clutch bell on the engine. The racing clutch is really a oversized shoes that are adjustable from 3 holes that are already drilled into it.

[Mossdog]

Got some new pics of my NMT, check out the finished shell! :D

[BigDaddi]

Has anyone ever put a 5 cell NiCD receiver battery pack in an NMT? Is there one that fits?

[M16-A2]

This one fits:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG17&P=7

[KOLOR KRAFT]

THATS THE ONE............:)

[BigDaddi]

Isnt' that too wide? You guys have actually put this in and it fit?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

IT IS TIGHT BUT FITS RIGHT IN THERE NO PROBLEM.

[gometro333]

It's been a long time since I've posted here. I need help with something. I know some people here, M16-A2, have the Kyosho Twin Caps as replacement shocks in their trucks. I was wondering if any of you who have them had any trouble getting the bottom "eyelet" thing on "piston?" I have tried so many things and just can't get them on. The whole looks like it should fit but it doesn't seem to want to go in. Can anyone help? Thanks a bundle in advance. Out

[nitecrawler]

Just got my buggy back on the road (fitted slipper, rush outdrives, diff grease, turnbuckles etc). I bought a titanium one piece top deck from F4i. It goes all the way from the front diff to the rear diff, and it looses the removable electrics tray. It arrived in only one week (I'm in england) and I'm well impressed. Firstly its incredibly well made. EVERYTHING fits! And everything you need (screws, o rings, arial etc) is in the bag. I've just got a stock chassis plate, which used to bend alarmingly, even just under the force of putting on the brake. With this top deck it is SOLID. Don't want to tempt fate, but I can't see this chassis bending. Unless I loose it in a chicken run with oncoming traffic. It also has a significant positive effect on handling precision. Totally recommended, especially with such fine service (hehe).
Can't comment yet on transmission mods.

I'm trying to attach a jpeg, but struggling

[brassmonkey1234]

Buggy? What buggy?

Anyway, nice bod moss. Paint it yourself?

DOES ANYONE KNOW *** HAPPENDED TO HPIFORUMS.COM??????

[BigDaddi]

I'm wondering how many of you guys have gone for tuned pipes, and if so, what kind did you get? Was it a good fit for you?

Looking for something in the helping the low RPM's range.

[nitecrawler]

Hey, its my BUGGY. I know its a truck, sorry - I've just always called all my RC cars buggies. Yeah I painted it, but its nothing special.
Has anyone got any experience of different front hub carriers (C-hubs?). I'm not looking for trick parts for the sake of it, I'm trying to eliminate some of the terrible slop in the steering, much of which comes from the steel bushes flopping around in the oversize holes in the hub carriers.

[Mossdog]

Bigdaddi, A common pipe for "torque" or "low end" is a single chamber pipe, I am running the Associated RC10GT pipe and it made a huge difference over the stock pipe on the NMT. I have read that the Fantom Single Chamber pipe also kicks butt! I also have a Tmaxx header that I ported, any highflow header combined with a single chamber pipe will help with your holeshots.

Nitecrawler, GPM makes aluminum Chubs for the NMT but they are $40. The RS4 hubs for the cars do not work with the NMT, I would recommend getting some new flanges and some replacement plastic ones to replace your worn Chubs. Use some superglue to glue the flanges in place on the hubs, it will prevent a bit of flex and totally prevent your hubs from ovaling out.

[nitecrawler]

Thanks for advise.
Surely the flange must be able to rotate in the c hub, that is the pivot point? If you glue the flanges what does the wheel pivot on? The screw in the bush? If so you must leave the allen bolts loose. How does that work?

[brassmonkey1234]

If you wanna get rid of the slop in the steering, try the powerline cranks or the wolfpack cranks. I have the powerline one and I was amazed at how much play was remomved when I put it on. If you really want better handling, get a buggy wing.

[Mossdog]

Like brassmonkey says the aluminum aftermarket steering systems for the NMT do take out tons of slop. You wouldnt want to overtighten your bolts on your front knuckles too much anyways. I have always glued my flanges into the C hubs and have never had a problem....if you find that yours come loose you could always use a little dab of removable locktite on the bolts, problem solved! The allen bolts rotate inside the flanges, as long as they are not overtorqued it should be fine. :D

[BigDaddi]

Thanks for all your help guys. It's nice to be able to get advice from folks who've been around the block in these rides allready.

Another question though. I ordered a lightweight flywheel and a racing clutch, and they came in yesterday. I installed them and started up the engine and ran it around and it was fine. The thing is, when the engine is off, the car doesn't roll cleanly in neutral anymore. It seems like the clutch engages, and stops the clutch bell from spinning when I'm in neutral, so the car will stop rolling. If I push hard it will start rolling again, or if I roll it really softly with no pressure, it will usually start rolling again. When the engine is on, everything is fine. Is this normal behavior, or should I worry about this?

[M16-A2]

Did you cut any of the clutch shoes off? If not then the clutch will engage at very low RPMs. However if you cut off a small portion of the shoes, most run on the second hole and cut back to the first hole, then the clutch will engage at a higher RPM.

[BigDaddi]

I put it on the second hole and cut off the first hole, as per the instructions.

[M16-A2]

Good.
You may also want to check and make sure that the spring didn't come undone. If the spring comes loose then the clutch will always engage.

[M16-A2]

Oh ya, just finished the switch to a metal brake disk and carbon fiber pads :) Braking power is easily better than what it was before with the HPI fiber brake disk.

[Knappster]

im a newb to nitros and i think im havin a prob with my idle screw...when it in neutral it still moves a lil...idk what to do

[wilson_bryant]

ok, i just finished buildin my MT and i went out to break it in, i did as the insturctions said but after 3 tanks of traxxas 20% the idole was really funkey, it woul dgo up and down and nothin i did would fix it, i tried adjusting the idol screw but that didnt work. please help i really like this truck and i want it to work.

oh yah does neone know the settings for the low and high speed needles on a O.S. .15 CV-X, it is in my super and it dont stay idolin.

[gometro333]

Ok I'll ask again and hopefully someone will respond. For anyone who has the Kyosho Twin Caps Pro, did you have any trouble get the shocks installed? I can't seem to get the bottom eyelet thing on the piston. Any ideas? Thanks

[BigDaddi]

I've been looking at these new OS engines, and it looks to me like the rotary carb arm is on the right side of the shaft on all of them. Won't this be a problem since our carb arm is on the left?

[LearjetMinako]

Not a problem, Just do what I did (and probably most of us). Loosen the carb nut that holds it in, and turn the carb 180 degrees to the position where you need it.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

hey did anybody notice that the rs4 3 diff gears are not that cast metal they are machined from steel definetly a improvement over the mt cast gears. just rebuilt two fronts and two rears with them to get ready for the racing season and put the ofna diff fluid in there again for added traction. these really should hold up for racing this time. no more blown APART diffs anymore.

[PCC]

Originally posted by KOLOR KRAFT
hey did anybody notice that the rs4 3 diff gears are not that cast metal they are machined from steel definetly a improvement over the mt cast gears.

I think I posted that some time ago.

[Mossdog]

The truck I just bought has brand new HD diffs in it. I am quite happy, even with the stock ones shimmed they still had excess play. The HD diffs are quite nice! I cant wait to run them! I will look into the RS43 diff assembly for my second truck! How do they compare for price? I am currently awaiting a large shipment from Greathobbies, then I should have one of em running!

Check out my webpage for a page devoted to the transformation of my second truck into a .21 beast (note: this may take some time but its transformation will be posted!)
www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[MaxxQbn]

Thinking about getting a NMT or NMT Racer.

Is the NMT racer worth the $$$ and what engine do you recommend? I was thinking of trying the new Traxxas 2.5 engine in the NMT racer.

Or

Get the NMT RTR and use the savings for hopups.

Any thoughts would be very welcome.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

as everybody will tell ya stick with the racer because it comes with all the good parts already on it. as far as motor most people are using the os cv-rx 15 pullstart that is probably the least tempremental motor out there and very reliable with awsome power.

[gometro333]

I have the NMT Racer and it's great. I'm running an HPI Nitro Star 15ss engine which I would like to change. At break-in the engine gave me a lot of trouble. I took a long time to tune and it was almost a half gallon of fuel before I got it running well. But once it ran well, it didn't stop. It's still going after about a year. I recently converted it to non-pullstart, and man do I love it. All it takes is a slight push down on the back of the chassis and your moving. The stuff the Racer comes with is very nice. The CVD's gave me some trouble until I stopped fooling with that HPI thread lock crap and went with Locktite. But personally, I think the main problem with either trucks is the shocks. While they may last a little while, if you race and/or bash hard, you will frequently be popping the tops off. I have the Kyosho Twin Caps, which yes I finally got together, and they are nice. They fit the springs that come with the truck so that's another advantage. The two other things the Racer comes with that is nice is the slipper clutch and the racing clutch. Both of these are very nice additions to the kick. I have also replaced the shock towers because the stock ones snapped in half after stupidly jumping off my roof (while I did get a cool video of it, it wasn't worth all the parts I broke when I landed on the nose). But overall both trucks are very durable, and if you don't plan on doing "extreme" bashing then there are really very few things you'll need to upgrade. For the past...long time, I've had a lot of fun with this truck.

Oh and it is apparently known as being an entry level truck. But the only truth about this is that it is pretty easy to build. Other than that, it can, or at least mine can, out preform most T-Maxx's out there.

Out

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i second that good way to put it.
definetly not entry level it does hold up very well and will out handle any t-maxx on the track no problem.

gometro you fixed the problem with the shocks what was the problem with the twins?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

Originally posted by KOLOR KRAFT
i second that good way to put it.
definetly not entry level it does hold up very well and will out handle any t-maxx on the track no problem.

gometro you fixed the problem with the shocks what was the problem with the twins? http://www.frantec.com.au/forums/index.php

[gometro333]

I think the problem was that the eyelet things weren't cut exactly right, or they had a little extra plastic film stuff hanging off. Either way, after a good movie and a lot of elbow grease I got them on.

Out

[Dino451]

can anyone tell if its worth getting the powerline bellcranks for the mt. I have a little slop and some drifting problems but not to bad.

[M16-A2]

aluminum bellcranks will definately eliminate a good deal of slop in the steering. if you want a truck that handles better than i'd say definately look into this part. however if you think your current setup is adequate, it isn't a necessary upgrade.

from personal experience i would recommend these bellcranks, as they add straight line accuracy and a decent amount of turning accuracy. (less wobble in the steering)

[Dino451]

Thanks for the info

[nitecrawler]

I'm looking for ways to stop loosing drive to the inside wheels while cornering, which results in the truck rolling - something we must all be familiar with! I've got my diffs packed with regular silicone grease, but it doesn't help much.
My questions are:
Would some thicker diff grease help?
What about HPI ball diffs (#A958?)? Anyone using them?
I notice HPI make 'gear diff springs' (#72215),which come in three strengths, which seem like a great, simple, and cheap solution. Anyone used them?

Cheers people

[gometro333]

Another note on steering, if you haven't already, get bearings with the bellcranks. It helps to put less strain on your servo and will make them move more smoothly. Out

[PCC]

nitecrawler, if you look back a few pages I posted something about building bullet-proof diffs for the NMT. For stiffening the diff action, I would go with silicon diff lube in 7K, 10K, or 20K weights. The larger the number the thicker it is and the stiffer the diff action.

The balldiff cannot hold up to the punishment that off-roading will give it.

The diff springs, IMHO, are a bad idea and will cause the spider gears to wear out prematurely due to them pushing the spider gears apart, increasing the gear lash, which means that the tips of the gears are what's making contact, etc.

[Dino451]

hi again, i was wondering if the bushings that come with the powerline bellcranks are good enough or should i get bearings. If bearings are a must than what size?

[nitecrawler]

thanks pcc
that makes sense. What weight at which end do you recommend?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

hey pcc i thought somebody posted that forgot it was on this forum but i never checked untill now what a difference in quality i would have never that that they wouldnt use them in the trucks? i have to agree the spring thing doesnt seem to be a good idea.

the bearings should be a must but i cant remeber what size? i think they should include them with it.

[gometro333]

I already said, get the bearings, and I agree, bearings should be included....but they're not. The bearing size you should use is on Kedar's website. Check it out.

[Knappster]

just got my MT recently and my rear shocks came apart what kind of shock oil should i get to put in em

[gometro333]

I use 50wt all around, but get a lot if your gonna keep the stock shocks. Those caps used to pop of every off run until I got the Kyosho Twin Caps. I would either recommend those or get the Powerline shocks. Either one will be better than the ones you've got. Oh and the springs you have will work on both upgrades.

[Dino451]

Can someone give me a good on road setup,
i have diff springs, purple rear springs-blue front, and sway bar set. Can someone tell what works best and please add more suggestions that i have not thought of. Oh yeah which tires would u recomend- i will be running it on mostly rough and slightly bumpy asphalt.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

as far as tires i would go with the rubber slicks..more info here


http://www.frantec.com.au/forums/index.php

please register there will be some good info here we are growing fast...........

[Mossdog]

A new LHS opened up here in town, I saw some 2.2 Duratrax truck tires that were slicks. They looked really thick and durable, I am not sure what the compound is (soft or hard) but either way I think the slicks would last quite a while!

[M16-A2]

When I received my RadTech aluminum wheels I went with Road Hawgs which have worked very well. They offer a lot of traction onroad and last for some time.


http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/1214dogbone.jpg

[mikesha]

I was wondering if anyone has tried the new trx 2.5 in the nmt, and what parts I would need to make it work.

[Mossdog]

I have seen some new Maxx's run and they are quick! Looks like it will fit the NMT....

SPECS: Displacement: 0.15 cu in (2.49cc)
Crankshaft Thread: 5mm
On-Center Mounting Holes, Front to Rear: 11mm (.433")
On-Center Mounting Holes, Side to Side: 31.4mm (1.24")
Back of engine(recoil)to front of drive washer: 73.2mm (2.88")
Height: 97.3mm (3.83")
Exhaust Port Diameter: inner - 9.9mm (.392")
outer - 13.0mm (.512")

COMMENTS: This engine shares the same mounting dimension as the OS 12-15 CV Series recoil engines.

[M16-A2]

Thought I'd post a little preview of things to come :) Dogbone of the left is a 2mm lengthened (so no more popping out) 4340 steel dogbone!

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/1214dogbone.jpg

[gometro333]

How much are you selling those for?

[M16-A2]

I'm not yet, just got myself a set. May have more in about 4 weeks time if you're interested :) I'll update here on the forums when I get more!

[Laterilus]

Hey everyone, I've noticed a few of you have been talking about the NMT onroad. This interests me since I consider myself an expert at driving the NMT for onroad racing. It is quite fun if you get the truck setup right. Here are a few things I would suggest:

1. Stiff springs all around to prevent body roll. Sway bars are a bit excessive since the NMT is a very well balanced truck with a very wide stance. Drop the shock setting down to the lowest or second to lowest setting up front and the do the same in the rear. I run blue springs all around.

2.Diff action is extremely important... especially for a technical course. The NMT has a tendancy to want to spin out or unload its diffs into the tire that has risen off the ground. Don't let the truck do this. I use HPI's ball diff in the rear and tighten it down pretty hard until there is very minimal diff action in the rear, then use some diff oil in the gear diff up front somewhere in the ranges of 10,000 ~ 40,000 wt. oil. Your truck will run a more smooth line and hold it's speed into a wide turn without spinning out or unloading.

3.Tires are the key! There are two ways that I think you can go with this one. Proline Road Rages are the best on-road tire for a truck that I have used (and I've used a lot!). They wear out very slowly and have excellent grip. They'll drift well also on some surfaces. The other way is to make your own slicks. Don't buy ones already made. Any tire made by proline in their soft M3 compound will make for the perfect set of onroad tires. Once the tread wears down or you personally grind it down, coat all four tires with Paragon's racing compound 30 minutes prior to each race. You'll get a good 5 minutes of the best griping onroad racing tires before the the compound has worn away. Remember to reapply the compound befor the next race. For a cool side trick, coat the compound on HEAVILY and hold your truck with the tires barely touching the ground while you gas it hard. Let the truck go while giving it full gas and it will leave black tire marks behind it, and on a really hot day, the compound will start to smoke off the ground!

Anyways, those are my onroad tips. :)

[XTR3e]

ive been trolling through the 60+ pages of this post and must say its quite interesting to see the MT go through its paces... it seems as though it was a 4WD developed primarily to create a new wave of buyers much like the Optima Mids i used to race.

I had no idea that when i bought my MT racer that the MT was well over 4 yrs old, but i must say that HPI has been on it ever since... I have had absolutely no problems other than light springs on my shocks, and the MT handles like a dream on small tracks with the addition of a decent steering servo.. i have a XTM 1.3hp .18 powering mine, and after breaking it in have opted to install a 2 spd since the .18 tops the MT out in a matter of seconds..

anyways, the LHS here told me about much of what ive read about regarding problems, so i took precautions but while making adjustments and improvizing to prevent breakage i noticed alot of the newer and evolved parts that HPI has put into the racer kit, and ill bet money that most of the improved parts stemmed from ideas that (no shims, longer CVD's, graphite shock towers, etc) came from this forum and a few others..

thanks fellas for making my racer kit better than most... last weekend when i was flogging my MT there was another dude flogging his non-MT RTR and breaking alot of parts while mine was just staying on the track gliding around with no problems other than tuning...

im gonna grab another MT soon....:p

[nitecrawler]

You guys that are using twin caps- which ones are they? I guess the Long and the Medium, can anyone confirm?
Are these the favourite shocks?

[M16-A2]

Medium for the front
Long for the rear.

They are definately the best quality/price shock out there. I would highly recommend them to anyone looking at new shocks for their truck. Mine have survived consistent 40+ foot jumps and have not failed me yet, so it's all good with these shocks.

[nitecrawler]

cheers!

[nmtr13]

Anybody using Kyosho Twin Cap Pro shocks? Do you like them? They look good for only 21 bux

[gometro333]

Ok don't know how many times this has been posted, but yes they are very good shocks. I have them and are working really well. While they are not threaded, which some may think is a necessity, but they still offer a wide range of adjustablility. Go for them, especially because you can get front and back for under 50 bux.

Ok now I have a question. What do people think of using 30wt oil in the front shocks? My friend was messing with the shock while I was showing my truck to him and I don't wan't to have to wait for the oil to come in the mail. So go or no go? Thanks a bundle.

[M16-A2]

30wt is a go for shock oil. I recently switched my fronts from 40 to 30 and have enjoyed the difference, it performs and handles much better. Of course every setup and driver style will have a different preference, but I'd say go for the 30wt.

[gometro333]

Sounds good. Thanks

[PtCruiser2003]

I have a nitro mt rtr.The front tires dont spin anymore
i dont even have one gallon of fuel out of it. Does any idea so that i can have 4x4 again.

[PCC]

Originally posted by nitecrawler
thanks pcc
that makes sense. What weight at which end do you recommend?
I can't remember what weight I ran in my NMT and it's long gone. I think I ran 10K in the front and 7K in the rear or was that 50K in the front and 30K in the rear?

[PCC]

Originally posted by mikesha
I was wondering if anyone has tried the new trx 2.5 in the nmt, and what parts I would need to make it work.
The current TRX 2.5 has a short SG shaft crank. This can be made to fit the NMT but the truck was not designed for it. As such you will have some difficulty getting it to work.

[PCC]

Originally posted by PtCruiser2003
I have a nitro mt rtr.The front tires dont spin anymore
i dont even have one gallon of fuel out of it. Does any idea so that i can have 4x4 again.
Check the couplings on the center spur gear mount leading to the front. Usually, the front coupling setscrew will come loose and allow the front drive to freewheel. If this is not the problem then check if your front diff is in good shape. If so then it's those spider gears inside the diff itself.

[nitecrawler]

I'm having trouble getting the Kyosho twin caps in the UK. Does anyone know the Kyosho part no. for them?

[gometro333]

In response the the front wheels not spinning, it happened to me too. My problem was that the pin in one of the front hubs had out. This made all the power in the diff go to that wheel making both wheels have no power. So check that.

[gtkx80]

alright guys...Just got a MT a while back and honestly dont want to read all 6-jillion pages of this...lol

I'm not new to the hobby, just to the truck. Give some good parts to buy or tips to use.

It is the rtr version and it has a tuned pipe, fuel filter and set of Losi step pins all the way around.

Just need to know some good aluminum parts to buy and where to get'em. I appreciate it...


..oh, i have a question though...I noticed that the fuel tank is awefully small becasue of the fact that it will only run for about 3 minutes and thats it...what are the option to get around this ? I cant even race a 5 minute heat...this isnt going to work...

Thanks

[M16-A2]

If a tank of fuel last you 3 minutes you have a MAJOR leak.
A 75CC tank (which is what's on the NMT) should last between 10-15 minutes depending on your engine settings.

[gtkx80]

there is absolutely no leaks. Everything stays real clean. And its running somewhat rich but not really. Whats a good temp to keep it at ? What should you not go over ? Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, GTKX80 is a buddy of mine, now.. i drive a XXXNT, and compared to my gas tank.. his is like a little over half the size of mine
Dustin a good running tem shoudl be around 210-225

[M16-A2]

Depends what engine you have. If it's the 15FE I'd run it around the 230-250 range. I always found my FE to run somewhat hot though, nothing I could really do about it just the way it was (my FE ran around 265).

[gtkx80]

..and its running pretty quick with those temps (230-250 range) ?

[gtkx80]

because, that motor can really haul-some-balls but, im afraid that im leaning it out too much, but, there is still blue smoke at full throttle...I'm going to get a temp gun tommorow.

[gometro333]

A temp gun would be a very wise purchase. My experience with the FE wasn't far from odd. Although after my friend bough his RTR the FE acted very erractily. The temperatures would skyrocket on days that it wasn't very hot and plumet on others. After sending the engine back, the engine did the same thing. When it did work, the engine had some good power, but even to me with the 15ss (which isn't a big step up, mainly just two needle carb) it felt like it was lacking something. The FE is meant as a "beginner" engine, and you not being a n00b might want to consider a new engine altogether, especially if your gonna race.

But just keep in mind, I have never owned the FE because I got the Racer kit so I picked my own. All of this is coming from simply using my friend's FE (but I have to say that I probably used it more than he did because he's a n00b so I had to break it in, set it up, etc.).

Just my 2 cents!!

[XTR3e]

2spd problems...

my 2spd locked up when i was running it today... im a little unhappy about it but the main thing that concerns me is that HPI provides no specs for the first screw... just three turns out for the second screw....

can anyone help?

[LearjetMinako]

Are you running the same engine that come with the rtr or are you running with some other engine?

I got a O.S. .15CV-RX on my NMT, and I get 05' 36" mins. on my engine running it harsh on the throttle, accelerating and braking hard. This is on the 75cc orginal tank.

[XTR3e]

im running a XTM .18 1.3 hp engine.. it runs liek a raped ape and then it shifts into second and locks the transmission up so hard that it kills the engine..

[gtkx80]

Hey guys, I got a question...For some reason, I'll get the truck to run, and when it dies, for whatever reason, I cannot get it to start back up.

I just picked up a O.S. #8 plug and some fresh gas and cleaned out the airfilter but I just cant get it to start back up...could it be the settings on the carb ? I dont understand...

I have found though that I have to put my finger over the hole in the pipe to get the fuel flowing, and I must say, I have to hold it their a while too. I have all the hoses connected well and all. What could be the problem ?

Thanks in advance

[Kenny123]

I bought a used NITRO MT and it has a 2-Speed. I only use my cars for off -road. Will the 2-Speed be a problem? Should I leave it or take it off?

[XTR3e]

Originally posted by gtkx80
Hey guys, I got a question...For some reason, I'll get the truck to run, and when it dies, for whatever reason, I cannot get it to start back up.

I just picked up a O.S. #8 plug and some fresh gas and cleaned out the airfilter but I just cant get it to start back up...could it be the settings on the carb ? I dont understand...

I have found though that I have to put my finger over the hole in the pipe to get the fuel flowing, and I must say, I have to hold it their a while too. I have all the hoses connected well and all. What could be the problem ?

Thanks in advance

you're too lean...

[XTR3e]

Originally posted by Kenny123
I bought a used NITRO MT and it has a 2-Speed. I only use my cars for off -road. Will the 2-Speed be a problem? Should I leave it or take it off?

so long as youre lhs carries the replacement parts such as the one way bearing and spur gears simple maintenance is all you'll need to do..

[ontherush]

Has anyone tried the new Wolfpack radicals sho type 2 speed. Will it stand up to offroad use?

[ontherush]

I just found out that sirio is making a rear ex. .18 pullstart that will fit the hpi nitro mt. U could ckeck it out here.
http://team trinity.com

[liquidforrest]

Hey guys, I just put up a new ALL HPI message board last night. Come check it out and join up.

http://www.pyropost.com/rs4rtr3/phpBB2

will be looking for some Mod's to help out:D

[gtkx80]

I'm getting plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust at full throttle...

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by Kenny123
I bought a used NITRO MT and it has a 2-Speed. I only use my cars for off -road. Will the 2-Speed be a problem? Should I leave it or take it off?

The HPI two-speed is not recommended for Off-road use. It will work OK as long as you keep it very clean and maintained. I would avoid jumping with it, it will fail when landing big jumps. :rolleyes: If you plan on running your truck hard....I would recommend a slipper clutch, it will save the drive train from sudden jolts when jumping and offroading.

[Knappster]

i was jw i striped only one tooth on my spur gear.....do i have to replace it and where can i get a spur gear that will fit the slipper clutch

[gometro333]

If you've been stripping them frequently than you may wanna get one of M16-A2's steal spur gears. I hear they're quite nice.

[BigDaddi]

Part #76822

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVS38&P=7

[KOLOR KRAFT]

bigdaddi that is the plastic gear i dont think that they been holding up we have been making two speed gears for a while now 49 or 52 teeth.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hey kolor kraft how much are they for both 49 and 52?
thanx

[fordman]

I've totaly run the 15 CV in my NMT to the ground. I want a motor with just as much power or more. I've been looking at the HPI 15 SS, and the duratrax velocity 17. I don't know the power output of either engine.
I do know that the SS is more popular. I only have about $135 to spend, and any help you could give me would be helpful.

Also, will the huge tires that come with the CEN MT fit on regular 2.2 rims? they look even bigger than the masher 2000's (tho not as cool looking) and I can get them for about 5 bucks cheaper a pair.

[Knappster]

i second nmt racer boy's request...how much are they and where could i find them....thanks

[KOLOR KRAFT]

e-mail or private message please or click the www under my post and there are more pictures and info on my forum. thanks.:)

[nitecrawler]

You guys using Kyosho Twin caps, a question.
I just got the twin caps - see what you mean, great quality, nice price. The springs supplied are too soft, what y'all using? stockers? or what?
Thanks

[M16-A2]

HPI blue springs on all 4.

[jeffr147]

will these rims work for my nmt, i'm pretty sure they do but am just making sure.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC4&P=7

[jeffr147]

never mind, idiot me was thinking of something different:rolleyes:

[nmtr13]

I bought the Powerline aluminum steering, and it keeps falling apart! The screws that hold the steering plate to the bellcranks are too short. Did anyone else have this problem?

[Matlock]

Originally posted by nmtr13
I bought the Powerline aluminum steering, and it keeps falling apart! The screws that hold the steering plate to the bellcranks are too short. Did anyone else have this problem?


Yep. But I found a screw that works good; The screws that you use for the brake cams, they work great. Since they are self tapping screws they are tough to get in, but once they are in, they don't come out.

[M16-A2]

The screws are the right size, but you may want to use a little loctite on the screws to hold them in place. My screws used to come loose frequently before I used loctite, so that should help in solving this problem.

[nmtr13]

Ok ill try that.

[jeffr147]

second on the thread lock, never had a scew loosen or come out (at least not on the steering ;) )

[Mossdog]

I finally got my OS CV-R running in my NMT, man what a tire shredder! I changed quite a few things since my last pic here so heres another! You can never have too many pictures in a thread! :D

[gtkx80]

oooohh, nice little truck man, i like it ! Is that the Racer, or the regular ?

I'm picking my up a O.S. .12 CV-R Today. I was watching them run in the 2wd's and they are rediculously fast !!! Enough power to light-up all fours for sure !

If anyone who has run the .12 and wasnt satisfied, let me know, and I'll just get the .15 CV-R.

Also, where can I get some aluminum hubs and up-rights ?

Thanks :cool:

[jeffr147]

i would say that is far past a racer! nice NMT Mossdog!

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by gtkx80
oooohh, nice little truck man, i like it ! Is that the Racer, or the regular ?

I'm picking my up a O.S. .12 CV-R Today. I was watching them run in the 2wd's and they are rediculously fast !!! Enough power to light-up all fours for sure !

If anyone who has run the .12 and wasnt satisfied, let me know, and I'll just get the .15 CV-R.

Also, where can I get some aluminum hubs and up-rights ?

Thanks :cool:

I bought the truck a little over a year ago and it was the regular RTR Kit. I became so absorbed in the truck I began the upgrading quest. I have almost completed my first NMT to the specs I like, here is what the first truck has.

OS CV-R
Powerline HD chassis
Big Ball Bearing Set
HPI HD Differentials
HPI slipper clutch/HPI two speed (I run one or the other)
HPI Racer tank
HPI SS Hinge pins
MIP Shiney CVDs Front (Bulletproofed)
Associated RC 10GT Tuned Pipe (purple)
Powerline Aluminum Steering Plate
Custom Fiber re-enforced Plastic Side Skirts/Spur gear protector
F4i Racing Titanium Shock Towers
HPI Fiber Brake Disk
Graphite Upper deck/Megatech aluminum upper (I switch them around)
Powerline Front knuckles
Powerline Rear Hubs
MIP Shiney CVDs Rear (Bulletproofed)
Ball bearing steering
HPI Ti-Turnbuckles
HITEC HS-645 MG steering servo
RPM ballcups
T-Maxx Header (hand worked)
Custom Bumpers/Skidplates
Powerline Shocks Front and Rear
HPI Receiver Cover (L)
Duratrax Air Filter
Dubro fuel filter (purple)
HG Titanium Ballstuds
Racing clutch

My second NMT is almost complete and has,

Custom made Aluminum 4 MM extended chassis and 3 MM upper deck (polished to mirror finish)
Kyosho Twin Caps shocks
Powerline Rear Hubs
Powerline Front knuckles
HPI Titanium turnbuckle
RPM ballcups
Big Ball bearings

The OS CV-R has tire shredding power, the holeshots are amazing, the OS 12 will have a little better fuel economy and give a bit longer runtime, but like they say there is no replacement for displacement!

:D

[gtkx80]

Yeah, thats a good moto, but the thing is, sometimes we dont have enough people who want to run a monster-truck class, and I wind-up running with the 2wd guys and I honestly dont want to hear their crap about it being 4wd AND a .15....see where I'm coming from ?

Although, im sure their is a couple of .15's out their in their 2wd trucks...And, I should get what I want, not what I dont want to hear...I'm still debating since I didnt receive my check in the mail yesterday...

So, Monday I'm going to choose one or the other...Any other advice would be muchly appreciated :)

[nitecrawler]

something strange has happenned!
I seem to have reached a point of reliability!
I've been out 3 times, and come home when its got dark, NOT when I've broken something. A few of the right mods and all of a sudden my MT is reliable, and has survived some abuse and poor driving that deserved a repair bill! Obviously now I've written this I'm destined for trouble, but its amazing the difference the stuff I've done has made. And thanks for the advice people.
One thing that is interesting is that when my MT was stock it was bending and twisting dogbones every time I went out, but now even though its a bit quicker, and I'm driving it harder its not doing it any more.
The drive train mods which seem to have made the difference are:
Slipper
Rush outdrives
Alloy hub carriers (they look identical to Powerline ones, but came from my LHS here in London)
Wheel brngs locktited into hubs
Diffs sealed, shimmed, and packed with diff grease.
I've also eliminated all steering play by fitting bearings into the stock steering columns, and installing Ti turnbuckles all round. I use ball and screw type ball cups on all the inboard turnbuckle mounts.
Other mods are:
F4i Titanium one piece top deck (great product-transforms the chassis)
Kyosho twin cap shocks
tube-type header
etc etc

I just hope my stock motor holds out until the Sirio .18 motor is available. If its anyway as fast and reliable as my friends Sirio .12 in his XXXNT it should be perfect.

[nitecrawler]

pic

[gometro333]

Wow you got that thing nice and dirty huh? I wouldn't have recognized any of the parts if you hadn't said it

[nitecrawler]

true true
now i'm hurt!

[Mossdog]

Glad to hear that your truck is at the "bulletproof" stage! With the right combination of upgrades the NMT is a fantastic/tough truck. And at least this doesnt happen! All four of the Tmaxx's yesterday were broken at least once, some more than others! My new ramp was the cause of the breakage!

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/damage_inc._010__custom_.jpg

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/damage_inc._011__custom_.jpg

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/damage_inc._005__custom_.jpg

[nitecrawler]

A Tmaxx destruction ramp! Sounds good. Maybe you should post the plans!

[beaker]

Just thought I'd add a picture of my truck to this thread.

Here it is with on road tires.

[beaker]

Here's another with off-road tires.

[fordman]

that's a pretty sweet paint job. I also like the red rims. How did you die them? I had a Question, tho, can you spray paint rims with a clear coat to make them shiny?
Again, that's a good looking truck, and the speed hawgs always make a truck look bad a$$.

[beaker]

I used red Rit Dye to dye the wheels. You can find this at most grocery stores.

Just dump the dye in water and heat up or boil (I can't remember), then soak the wheels until you get the color you want. The longer you soak, the darker the color.
Even though I let my wheels soak for a long time, they still turned out a little orange.

Most likely if you spray painted the wheels, it would just flake off. You could try a clear-coat, but I'm not sure if it would stick.

By the way, the paint job was done with spray cans. I did, however, mask off the flames with some Parma masks. I also used a little liquid mask which works great.

[wilson_bryant]

sorry to change the subject but does any company make Al. spur gears for the NMT. i keep strippin gears and i want to get some Al ones. thanks

wilson

[Mossdog]

There are steel spurs available, I have never come across Aluminum ones.

[M16-A2]

Metal Spur:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm

[wilson_bryant]

hey m16 how much are those gears??? and mossdog who makes the steel ones?? thanks

[beaker]

Try clicking on page 6 of this thread. Someone just asked this about 20 posts ago.
You'll even see a picture of the metal spur gears.

I actually think that there are two people on this forum who make these - M16-A2 and KOLOR KRAFT.

Good luck.

[M16-A2]

I do make steel spurs. I have one left and will let it go for $30 shipped if you're interested. Send me an email at slw265@psu.edu if you're interested.

[wilson_bryant]

well i will post my mt. it is mostly stock except for the slipper clutch and the engine in it now is a O.S. .15CV-X

for more pics here ya are (http://groups.msn.com/hpisupernitros/mymt.msnw?albumlist=2)

oh yah dont look at the bad paint job(really crappy masks).

[Ryche]

A friend just bought a 2speed for his NMT... He has a question.. does the NMT 2speed shift, (as in wind out and change gears) like a t-maxx does... he has installed it as instruction says,(according to him).. and since i dont' have a 2speed for my NMT i have no clue if they do or not.... how does the 2speed system exactly work.. anyone know..


Ryche..

[Mossdog]

The basics is that at a certain engine RPM (regulated by a set screw against a spring loaded cam) engauges the secondary gear causing your gear ratio to change thus increased speed, someone with a little more two speed experience could probably elaborate more on this.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

yes we do have the steel spur gears in two ratio right now they are 49 tooth or 52 tooth. these are light weight gears but extremly strong and dont have to change the cluch bells!:)

[Knappster]

need to get a few parts for my truck just wanna make sure i got the rite stuff.....can that gear be used on a slipper clutch....are those the rite bearings for the part that holds the slipper...also is there anywhere i can get a metal gear that fits the slipper

no there a bunch of stuff there any bit of advice would help THANKS

o and what dog bones do i need for the rear
thanks againwww2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wto0149p (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wto0149p)

[fordman]

First off Wilson_bryant, that paint job looks a whole lot better than mine. I think it looks pretty cool.

next, I bought a set of aluminum Duratrax shocks meant for the Evader. they fit just fine with the adapters, but they don't compress all of the way. the bodies are too short an the shafts are too long, when fully compressed, there is still about 3/8 of an inch of shaft sticking out. it won't even let the chassis bottom out.

Should I try to add spacers at the bottom of the shaft, or take them back. I've read a bunch of you guys love the twin caps, I should have spent the extra 14 bucks and bought them instead.

[Mossdog]

I would be careful with those long shaft shocks. The NMT was designed to bottom out on hard landings, with those shocks being long you will be transferring the impact throughout the suspension system. Eventually you will bend or break some parts, hingpins, towers, the shocks themselves etc, etc. I have the twin caps on one of my NMT's and the Powerline shocks on the other, I would recommend the twincaps, I have had problems with my powerline shocks in the past.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

yes the gears are designed for the slipper clutch and the two speeds the fit perfect........www.kolor-kraft.com
there is some more info on my forum.............:)

[fordman]

My friends are always breaking my stuff! I was installing new bearings on my spur gear shaft(with slipper) and rick asked if he could tighten the slipper. The next thing I know, he's twisted it down so far that the set screw in the drive cup pushed through that metal lip on the end. I smacked him up-side the head and sent him home.

Can I just drill a small hole for the set screw to go into, or maybe grind another flat spot on the opposite side of the shaft. I can't find where to buy just the shaft by itself, or any parts for that matter.

I also have to say that the powerline upper deck rocks! it looks trick, and nothing flexes when I brake. well worth the 27 bucks.

[Cotharyus]

I've been poking around, and this looks like a good all purpose truck, I like the fact that it's shaft drive, and it looks like it's a tough one too. I have two questions before I spend money:

Where'd you get yours (Tower has it for 329, my "LHS" (nothing is really local for me) has it for 379) - is there some place with better deals?

What about hopups? I know don't see any listed from Integy for the MT - I know them from getting parts for my TB-01, but who makes parts for it? Thanks for your help with this/

[Knappster]

i got mine for 289 rtr at hobbypeople.net

also whats the best tuned pipe for performance

and are there any other places for aluminum parts then tower

[Mossdog]

Guys there are TONS of hop-ups for the NMT. Powerline, Megatech, GPM, Hotbodies, the list can go on and on. Hobbyetc sells GPM parts on their website, but the GPM components are tad bit more expensive than the others. The NMT is a fantastic truck and is quite universal, it can jump, run offroad, race competitively, and is great on road as well!.... Here is a list of what my Alloy NMT currently has:

OS.15 CV-R (Non PS)
Powerline HD chassis
Big Ball Metal sheilded Bearing Set
HPI HD Differentials front and rear
HPI slipper clutch and two speed (run separately of course)
HPI Racer fuel tank
HPI SS Hinge pins
MIP Shiney CVDs Front (Bulletproofed)
Associated RC 10GT Tuned Pipe (purple)
Powerline Aluminum Steering Plate
Custom Fiber re-enforced Plastic Side Skirts/Spur gear protector
F4i Racing Titanium Shock Towers (front and rear)
HPI Fiber Brake Disk
Graphite Upper deck/and Megatech Aluminum Upper deck (which I prefer)
Powerline Front knuckles
Powerline Rear Hubs
MIP Shiney CVDs Rear (Bulletproofed)
HPI Ti-Turnbuckles
HITEC HS-645 MG steering servo
RPM ballcups
Ball bearing steering
T-Maxx Header (hand worked)
Custom Bumpers/Skidplates
Powerline Shocks Front and Rear
HPI Receiver Cover (L)
Duratrax Air Filter
Dubro Fuel Filter
HG Titanium Ballstuds
Ofna Slide carb linkage
Racing clutch/various spur/ clutch bells w ball bearings

My other NMT has:

Powerline Front Knuckles
Dynamite Air filter
Dynamite fuel filter
Powerline rear hubs
HPI titanium turnbuckles
RPM ballcups
Extended chassis and upper deck (very beefy 4mm thick)
Custom Plastic Bumpers/skidplates
Currently running a HPI 15 FE with 180 header and GT pipe, this set-up is temporary until I convert to a .21 beast!
:cool:

Check out my webpage for lots of pictures!
www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[Onetrip]

1st post, hopefully I'm in the right place:

...after several years w/ electric, I've decided to test out the Nitro waters. I'm in the process of finishing the MT kit (trim/paint body) and noticed when I set the car down on a flat level surface, the rear end sits much lower than the front. I didn't use the green shock oil the kit comes w/ because i wanted to use up some old 40wt Trinity shock oil i've had for a while. The truck kinda sits like those real trucks that have that Baja/stadium look. Did i mess up building the kit, or is this truck supposed to sit like this? Does anyone know what the stock shock oil weight is? I can't find any info in the manual. thanks for any help,
1T

[KOLOR KRAFT]

welcome the factory shock oil is no good anyway glad to hear you used the 40 weight instead and yes the rear does sag a little i try to set mine up with the rear doggies level as looking from the back and the front also level lets the suspension glide threw the bumps and ruts it does work good that way...:)

[fordman]

I noticed the other day that the rear hub carriers have two outer hinge pin holes. I had the same problem with the rear-end sagging, but I moved the pins to the top holes, and now the truck sets about level.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

# Front Suspension

Oil 35 weight.
AE shocks,twin caps
Spring blue front and rear
Ride height Arms level(up for rough/jumping
Camber 1 degree negative.
Camber Link(Inner) As per kit(hard surface ).
Caster 25degree all conditions.
Toe In/Out Parallel(normal) 1 degree in(tight/wet).
Shock Pos Top Outer hole,lower the hole more agressive
Shoch Pos Bottom Outer hole
Tyres hard packed track,panther "stinger"

# Rear Suspension

Oil 35 weight. normal - bumpy 3o weight
springs blue
Ride Height Slightly higher than level drive shafts.
Camber 1 degree negetive.
Anti Squat little low in the rear
Toe in 3 degree.
Shock Pos-Top Inner hole lower hole more aggresive
Shock Pos-Bottom Inner hole
Tyres hard pack track panther, "stinger"

these are the offroad set ups for the mt been working for me this is for racing you would want the rear to sag a bit just for traction issueslike the real stadium trucks are designed to have. this set up works perfect for offroad or bashing...:)

[nitecrawler]

well now I seem to have stopped breaking stuff it must be time for more power (so I start breaking stuff again!)
I hear all the good words about the OS 15, so thats top of my list. My LHS (in england) can do me a better price on the equivalent Picco motor, and says its better (faster).
Anyone used it?

[M16-A2]

The Picco probably will be a little faster than the OS, however I'd be willing to bet the OS will have more low end power. In an offroad truck you may want to opt for the power over speed, as it would be more practical for the type of use a truck usually sees.

Of course when you're looking at these types of engines either one will be a good choice and should provide a lot more power and speed than your previous engine!

[Soloithz]

Hey guys. I have an NMT-racer and I've gone through almost a gallon of hard driving and dirt and rocks. I stripped the spur gear once from hitting a curb head on at full speed. I might add it was only because I had the slipper clutch way too tight. I have had zero problems with the spr gear otherwise. I see no need to go to a steel gear. That only introduces the possibly of AM radio glitching anyways. As far as the cvds go mine have not fallen apart yet and I didnt even modify them. Just build them right and they should be fine. I've had a rear shock pop off the tower, 2 e-clips for the hinge pins pop off, and a tie rod pop loose. But never anything with the cvds. GOO MIP!

Question of my own: I have the powerline shocks. What size spring do they use so I can get replacements or different rates??


HPI rulez!

[fordman]

Same here, never any problems with the cvd's. no thread lock, no heat shrink tubing, nothing. and nary a problem(I hit a car once and bent one, but I just bought a new bone).

Any of the HPI replacement springs will work on the powerline shocks. The blue springs look kind of wierd against the purple shock, but that's what most of the guys around here run

[Mossdog]

I have never had a problem with my CVD's. I run them on both of my NMT's. I have "bulletproofed" them but I doubt that it makes a huge difference. They are most definately an improvement over the stock dogbones.

Nitecrawler, I have the OS CV-R in my alloy NMT and I am very happy with it. Gets the old NMT up to speed in a heartbeat! :)

[Cotharyus]

I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on the radios that come with the RTR package. I can find the MT either in kit form, or RTR, and figured really the only difference would probly be the radio. If this is a misconception, let me know, but I was wondering if I should go with the kit (ie, the radio that comes with the RTR is junk) or if the RTR is a good deal. Thanks.

[M16-A2]

I believe they still include the Airtronics Blazer with the RTR model. This is a decent AM radio, although it doesn't have many adjustments or options, it also doesn't glitch and has some decent range to it.

RTR also comes assembled if you buy the kit it will need to be assembled.

Hope this helps.

[brassmonkey1234]

I run the rtr radio. It's OK.. but definetly lacking in adustments. It's fine for piloting my .21 nmt. :D

[fordman]

The price difference between the kit and the RTR is only 60 bucks, which is the same price as the Blazer Sport radio that comes with the RTR. Either way you're still spending the same amount of jack, so go with the kit, so you'll be familiar with it.
I'm still running with the Blazer sport and it hasn't glitched once that I could tell. It's a great starter radio. I love it.

[Soloithz]

Thanks for your reply fordman just one problem though, the stock hpi springs DONT fit on my powerline shocks. The inside diameter on the spring is not large enough to fit over the collar that you spin down on the threads. Same with the bottom part that the spring slips onto. Any other ideas? Are these other guys simply widening the springs to fit the powerline shock body?

[Dino451]

ive built a street NMT. I am considering (only considering) if it would be worth to get a two speed. those of you who have built a street nmt please tell me if there is any more top speed and performance out of it. Also can anyone tell me where i can get a much cheaper one than the one at Tower. It's 75.00 just for the two speed. All the help is appreciated.
Iam running a O.S. cv-x. Its cheap but good:)

[Onetrip]

Still working on the kit, while cutting out the body last night
i realized i mounted the rear shocks on the outside of the
rear susp arms (looked at the manual cover and noticed this).
This is probably why the truck seems to sag more than it
should. anyway thanks for those who replied.

Cotharyus, i just got the kit

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/261860.asp

a couple of weeks ago. luckyly it was on sale for
$179.99!! and i live by a hobbypeople so no
shipping/wait!! anyway i just got into off-road
r/c a few months ago and bought the Blazer
radio with one servo for an electric Rustler.
i'm pulling that radio from the rusty and gonna use it
with the NMT when i'm finished.
since an electric car only needs one servo i needed
to buy anohter one. this one:

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/444132.asp

is supposed to be a real good/inexpensive metal geared
servo. anyway i'd buy the kit and the blazer in 75mhz
cause u get a wider range of frequencies to choose from.
i think the RTRs only come in 27mhz and you only get
to choose from 6 frequencies. but i may be wrong.

anyway,
i planned on breaking in my NMT engine this weekend,
my questions:

How long does it take to go through the two tank
fulls of fuel during the static brakeing?

How long does it take to go through the low speed
breakin and how many tanks do you guys recommend?
(i think the manual says 3-4, i'm at work right now so
no manual w/ me)

Anyway, thanks for any info and sorry about the long
post...

1T

[M16-A2]

It's been almost 5 years since I broke in a FE, but I believe it took around 12-15 minutes at idle to run a tank at break-in. If you drive around slowly that time will decrease slightly, but in general it you can count on 12-15 per tank.

Running the first 2 tanks at no more than 5% throttle, then 2 more at no more than 15%, another 2 at 25%, and then another 2 at 35-40% is what I usually do for break-in. This may be a little excessive for the FE which is ABN construction (ABC engines require a longer break-in than ABN do), but it's always better to be safe than sorry when you're talking about an engine.

Anyway hope you enjoy the kit, and good luck with break-in it should prove to be a very enjoyable time!

[fordman]

I am about to break in my 15SS in a few days, and I was told to take the engine through the whole range of RPM's in the first few tanks(the first tank at no more than 1/2 throttle though), just to be fluid with the trigger and no sudden throttle imputs.
then on the third or fourth tank to start leaning out the needles.

I have read hundreds of posts on how to break in an engine, and every one is different. It's confusing:confused:

For the people who have the powerline upper deck, what are the extra holes for? there's one kind-of in the middle of the rear shock tower supports, and a countersunk one in between the throttle servo and the handle screw.
Also, do you just use machine screws to hold in the fuel tank?

[M16-A2]

When you break in that SS don't take it to half throttle on the first tank. For an ABC engine I'd do the first 4 tanks all between 5-25% throttle, just to cycle some heat through the piston/sleeve and let them start to match. Then from tanks 5-8 go from 25-40% throttle, staying more towards the 25% but blipping up to 40% from time to time.

ABC engines will require more than 4 tanks for break in as the piston and sleeve take longer to match than an ABN engine.

[Soloithz]

My truck stops so hard the wheels lock up and the front end dives hehe. I do believe this gives me adjustable front to rear brake bias but it is very sensitive. The front disc works better than the rear stock disc too.

[Soloithz]

From the front, you can see the piece of threaded rod I had to custom bend to get it to work. The white piece on top of the stock cam is an unused servo arm that comes with my radio.

[Soloithz]

15ss,
powerline shocks, bumper, and gear mount
high torque contest airtronics steering servo,
RPM talon rims on proline gladiator 2 tires
(Stock bowtie tires on stock wheels, and AE tq black dish wheels on pro-line dirt hawgs)
dual fiber disc brakes
MIP on board temp guage
Fail-safe, green fuel tubing, hpi reciever cover
HPI High flow air filter
RRP lightweight RS4 flywheel

[Mossdog]

Sweet truck, that dual brake set up is neat. I find that with a single fiber brake disk, I too can lock up the tires. That is definately a neat mod! Does it seem like there is any brake bias to adjust? I was wondering about doing the same modifications to my extended NMT when I convert to a .21, but I was unsure if the difference would be noticeable with a fixed center diff.

[Soloithz]

After looking at the way the tranny works my feeling is that you only get seperate bias if you loosen the slipper clutch. If I were to set the rear brake for example, to grab sooner than the front and adjust the slipper clutch to slip a little with that same amount force then the front drive shaft would continue to spin a bit faster than the rear when braking because of the slippage in the clutch which basically seperates the 2 drive shafts when it slips. The slipper is on the rear of the spur gear and that seems why. If the SC was tightened all the way down it seems it would be equal bias. I still have to do some more experimenting to get the facts. (if only it would stop raining on the weekends!!)

[wilson_bryant]

i need to know if eather of these will fit in my MT. first one are these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM523&P=0) and the second ones are these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXJ64&P=0)

thanks for any help.

wilson

[KOLOR KRAFT]

the fisrt one fits the truck the second one for the rush i dont think they fit but they are a good uprade for your truck...

[wilson_bryant]

thanks.

[fordman]

Why don't you pay 4 more dollars and get Titanium hinge pinshttp://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZJ58&P=7

[M16-A2]

As far as hinge pins go the SS hinge pins will actually be more durable than the Ti pins. Ti pins tend to distort easier than the SS pins will, so I'd stick with the cheaper and more durable SS hinge pins.

[fordman]

Unless you run the aluminum arms, I don't see how you could break a hinge pin. The arms should give way more easily than the metal pins do.
When I bought my truck a year ago I also bought the Ti pins. They're still in the package, the stock pins are still good as new, but I've gone through about 15 arm sets (which means I have 14 extra rear arms:) )

Also, I bought the Al upper deck. What is the best lay-out for the reciever and temp gauge. I tried mounting the gauge over the battery pack, but it doesn't leave any room to zip tie the pack in.:confused:

[M16-A2]

I've had some crashes that have bent the stock pins into all kinds of wierd shapes. It all depends on how you run your truck and what kind of speed you're going at.

SS pins don't bend easily, and the ones I've been running for over 2 years now look pretty good still.

[fordman]

Any tips on upper deck layout?
Does anyone else think that Dr. Phil is full of monkey dung?
Where are the other Nitro MT forums?
Can you hear me now?

[Mossdog]

Fordman I have recently ordered the Venom temp gauge. I too was looking for where to mount it...I plan on mounting it on the aluminum deck up behind the receiver area. There is enough room behind the receiver to mount it. Some two way tape and your set! I have the Megatech upper, it also has 6 holes for zipties to hold the receiver pack. Thin small zipties fit throught the outer holes and would leave enough room for a temp guage in between them, but the ties only grab onto the very ends of the battery pack, looked a little too flimsey for me.....so I use a big zip tie in the middle holes.

As for other NMT forums I would check out this place...lots of activity and great people! :D

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk


Whos Dr.Phil?:p

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by fordman
What is the best lay-out for the reciever and temp gauge. I tried mounting the gauge over the battery pack, but it doesn't leave any room to zip tie the pack in.:confused:

Here is where I mounted my temp guage. It is not prone to getting hit by anything since there is no reverse and I can see the temp easily without have to remove the body or anything.

[nitecrawler]

Who makes cvd boots to keep crud out of the MIP CVD's? I'm sure someone mentioned them once. I'm surprised MIP don't sell them - but I guess they need to sell spares!
Also there are people talking about top deck options. I bought the M16 one piece Ti upper deck, which is one piece from the front diff to the rear, and it transforms the chassis. Running the stock lower deck with this upper my MT is RIGID. When I bought it a month or two ago I raved about the quality, fit and service on this forum (can't remember which page) and I still feel the same.
In addition to the handling benefits, a less obvious improvement which must be down to the decreased flex, is that all the drivetrain components are lasting far longer.
I'll try to attach a pic. And yeah I know its dirty, but it rains a lot here in england. Thats why I want the CVD boots!

[nitecrawler]

it used to be clean!

[NMT4me]

I don't recall seeing CVD boots however I do know that most people use shrink tubing on them:

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/crash_pruf.asp

Good luck!

[Onetrip]

Almost done building my NMT, and I noticed there's a lot of slop in the front wheels/steering. Seems like too much for me. How can i mod it to take off some of the slop? will bearings instead of bushings in the steering help? what about the trick about super glueing the flange pipes to the hub carrier?
Man this is longest kit build, 3+ weeks!!!

[NMT4me]

Definitely glue the flange pipe to the hub carrier and grab yourself one of these:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ55&P=7

This more so than anything else will get rid of the steering slop. Also make sure to replace the bushings that come with it with 4 4X8mm bearings.

[Cotharyus]

I like the looks of that Ti upper deck nightcrawler. Here's what I'm up to. I don't have my NMT yet (getting the kit, soon - under a month hopefully) but I want to go on and stiffen it up right off. What upper deck options are available, and where can they be had from? Please post links!

[Onetrip]

Well i tried the superglueing the flange pipe to the hub carrier trick and p/u some bearings for the steering, and i would say about 30% (feelstimate) of the slop dissapeared. it feels like to me that most of the slop is from the balls/cups though. has anyone upgraded these and are they more precicely made w/ less play? the powerline aluminum steering assy. looks sweet, but would be down aways on my upgrade list. thanks for the help.

1T

[KOLOR KRAFT]

we have all kinds of parts for the mt in Titanium just check my forum for updates........

[NMT4me]

1T,

I upgraded to the RPM purple ball cups. They definitely help however, they are pretty tight.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVT96&P=7

[KOLOR KRAFT]

here is a all titanium mt that we build and supply parts for.
www.kolor-kraft.com check my forums ..........

[M16-A2]

Just thought I'd let everyone here know that I received the first 100 4340 dogbones today! These are 2mm longer than the HPI bones so they won't slip out of the front outdrives and are also much stronger compared to the HPI bone.
If anyone's interested email me at slw265@psu.edu

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/4340dogbone01.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/4340dogbone02.jpg

[Dino451]

Can someone post a pic of their MT with a proiline body on. I don't really like the HPI ones because Ive' heard they are thin and break easier.

[Mossdog]

There are quite a few choices for upper decks. Titanium is of course the best option. Other options include aluminum upper decks that are one piece and require the removal of the radio tray. There is also a graphite upper deck available from HPI, the lightest and weakest option.
I have found that proline bodies are much more durable than the HPI bodies. The black shell is a PROLINE RC 10GT shell.
Lots of pics at my webpage www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[Lapster]

Hey guys, what spring and oil are you using for hard packed tight track?

[nitecrawler]

anyone out there used Picco .15 motor?
I've been offered a good price, ie cheaper than O.S. .15.#
I've just broken my manifold, so this could be the engine upgrade oportunity I've been looking for!

[nitecrawler]

anyone out there used Picco .15 motor?
I've been offered a good price, ie cheaper than O.S. .15.#
I've just broken my manifold, so this could be the engine upgrade oportunity I've been looking for!

[nitecrawler]

Any one used a 'roll-over antenna'?
seen 'em in yank mags. Do they work?

[Hicountry]

Save your money nightcrawler.

Cut your ant tube right where it comes out of the body and insert a short piece of fuel tubing. Instant hinge, works great

[Soloithz]

I believe the purpose of a roll over antenna is to "roll" the car back onto its wheels after a flip. Without hopefully damaging anything. How will cutting the antenna tube and shoving fuel tubing down there accomplish that? Just a thought.

[fordman]

Most "anti" roll-over antennas are made of fiberglass, and are pretty thick. they are made mostly for on-road cars. My friend at my LHS had one on his GT for a while. It worked pretty well, it never let the truck fully roll, but he still had to manually flip it over. It finally snapped after a roof-landing.

And I haven't tried the cutting the antenna tube and puting fuel tubing over it trick. How do you keep the upper tube half from pulling out?

[nitecrawler]

who makes alloy clamp type hex hubs?
HPI make some, but they say not for the MT.

[wilson_bryant]

this is for anyone that uses a starter box... what brand of starter box can i get for my MT. i just broke the damn ps and i dont want another one. thanks

[wilson_bryant]

auactually i just relized how much of a pain that it would be to have to carry one around so i think ill just buy a new ps. so desreguard the last post. thanks

[RCCARBOY747]

hey guys,
I used to have the problem with my gear strippingand got pretty tired of it.so what I did was,take the steal spur from an ofna ultra gtp and the shaft it was on. now you can't drop it in because the barrings dont match but I found some that fit for ten bucks.so far thier hasn't been a problem with the gears:D .some of the other things I've done to my mt are,
twin tank
.21 conversion w/torq .21(big wheelies:D )
custom wheelie bar
blue crome clawze
panter burnner slicks
proline silverodo body

and right now I'm trying to gather aluminum goodies for my ride and I'm making an 5mm aluminum dimond plate chassis and a custum roll cage. when I get it done I'll post some pics for you guys;) .

[RCCARBOY747]

ooops forgot the titanium turn buckles and cvds:o

[Cotharyus]

So, I've just (this past Sunday actually) ordered my NMT kit from Ultimate - I'm looking forward to getting my hands on it, as it will be my first nitro (and I've been doing this for 16 years!) - I'm aware of the things I need to be cautious about when building it, and I've read every nitro-newbie and tuning specific thing I can find. A lot of it looks like common sense, so I geuss we'll get to see how smart I am. Anyhow, the only unanswered question is, if you had to tell me one spare part to keep laying around, what would it be, and would it be because of breakage, wear, or loss?

[RCCARBOY747]

spur gears lots and lots of spur gears you need them because you can go through them like a beaver through a tree:mad: :mad:

[Hicountry]

WOW I always thought a roll over antenna was made so that it would not get destroyed during roll overs. One that would keep the truck upright would be nice, wonder how well it would really work though.

I have had some really cool saves because I really do not like chasing after an upside down truck.

Nice to see that with all the REAL? monster trucks out there that people are still buying the NMT. I wanted a stadium type truck, but I wanted traction!!

Have fun.......3 tanks and nothing broke today!!!!!

[M16-A2]

Got a new Sirio .12 in my NMT today :)
It's raining out though so no break in today, tomorrows forecast will be more favorable!

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Sirio04.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Sirio05.jpg

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Sirio06.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

*** m16-A2???!?!?!???!?!?!??!?!??!

WOW
a new engine already? what happen to your RB Concepts X12?

Which sirio is it?

my powerplant ( OS12TR(P)-T which is very simmilar to Sirio 12) still hasn't come to life yet. I need to get on piece racing pipe and a starter box...:)

Do you think your doggy will hold up any good against the sheer power?:D

[M16-A2]

The X12 was cleared out to make room for the new V12 which will be here next month. Till then I want to try the new Sirio 12's.

So far my doggies have held up to the X12 and my brothers torquier (is that a word) .15, and I'm very confident it'll hold up to this Sirio as well!

After all 4340 steel isn't the easiest thing to bend or twist so I don't expect to have any problems with these dogbones :)

[jimbonj]

Has anybody tried the following:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCVW3&P=7

Just looking for a cheaper alternative to these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT697&P=7

TIA, Jim.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

with the ofna and 1/8 scale rotors you will still have to buy pads for the calipers and glue them on. the stock fibre disk is not that bad for the cost.

[M16-A2]

I bought the MP6 set and they work very well. You can use the fiber pads and CA glue them to your HPI metal calipers.
There are enough pads and disks to have enough for a replacement set as well!

[fordman]

I mainly just bash around, so would I see a big improvment in the brakes if I got the MP 6 disks? I know that the stock set-up is alright for me at the BMX track. I just wish it would stop a little sooner.
Are they worth the 17 bucks?

[M16-A2]

They work better than the fiber disk did on my truck, so I'd say they're worth it.
If you're fine with the stock setup though it may not be worth it, all depends on your driving style.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

HB's super thick vented brake disk is also really good.

[fordman]

M16-A2, I just have to ask. Why the odd switch/antenna tube placement?

[M16-A2]

Odd?
I think it's practical as it keeps all the radio, batteries, and wires in one small location of the truck. Works very well for me and is easy to get to anytime I need to mess with anything.