HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[Silent Night]

gangstar- you can try getin ghte nyloc ones which have a little nylon seal around the edge, or you could try using a tiny bit of loc-tite...

josh222& mt2 owns you- if i made them farther then ther would be one big whole where the screw would go though...

Asmenoth- Yeah, I was thinking about buying them but i was not sure if they would help much.... are the ones you talking about the regular or the sg engine motor mounts? I'm not sure if buying his or somebody else's chassis would be better...

[KronicRacer]

the wolfpack mounts wont work with the 15fe. the mounts are not tall to begin with. the pullstarter and pullstart back plate will get in the way.
so an alternative is to use a fantom rear exhaust pullstart with back plate. you may as well get a new motor.
another possibility is to convert the 15fe to a non pullstart motor to use with the wolfpack mounts.
if you want to stick with the original mounting location. place the stock chassis ontop of the new one and take you time to line them up. then mark and drill.

[MT2 owns you]

he doesnt have a 15fe anymore...he has a .18 TZ! :D and thats what is wrong..the 15fe mounts would make it so that h only has 3 holes holding his engine down instead of four as i understand it. anywho...i have an idea...maybe use a washer? and take a peice of your old (originial) chassis and tkae a peice of it and make it fit in hte oversized hole..then just cut out where the screw goes (so that it meshes well with the gears of course).then when you mount the engine, put that paice in, out a washer in, and then put ur screw in. but..maybe a new chassis or mounts will be a better idea..if you decide on the mounts can i have your "old" ones?? same for your chassis. :D

[Silent Night]

well i test fitted it today and realised that the motor mounts holes have to move all the way to the fe mount holes... and they are just slightly off and like 1mm to skinny...i might just cut those and make some new holes for the other side... i might try to get some pics of what i mean later...

[Asmenoth]

The ones I have are the SG ones, and they come with the spacers for using a pullstart motor so they will be taller (they are not (the spacers) in the pic, but he offers to send them no extra charge).

:D

[Silent Night]

oh, the tz i have isn't pull start... i have the hot bodies sg engine mounts that i got for $6 on ebay.... :D

[bluesoulX12]

ADULT BUILT, OWNED AND DRIVEN HPI RS4 RTR 3, 1/10TH SCALE, SHAFT DRIVEN 4WD, NITRO POWERED R/C CAR.

CAR INFO:

DTX .18 ENGINE INSTALLED AND STILL HAS GOOD COMPRESSION.
INCLUDES RADIO AND RECEIVER.
OILED FILLED SHOCKS
TIRES ARE IN GOOD SHAPE.(WILL SEND A USED SPARE SET OF TIRES)
TONS OF SPARE PARTS
2-SPEED TRANSMISSION( WILL SEND THE ORIGINAL SINGLE SPEED,)
A SPARE SET OF GEARS AND CLUTCH SHOES
EVERYTHING OPERATES CORRECTLY

how fast can this go...

[Silent Night]

alot of things can affect the speed but i'll guess maybe about 45-60

[josh222]

That Engine is from the DuraTrax Evader GP and is made by OS and should be fine with some good powerand cheap to rebuild

[gangstar]

Hi, the front-left dogbone of my rs4-3 keeps popping out while im driving. I don't know why. Does anybody know how to fix this? Should i just replace the dogbone? if there's a way to fix it without spending as much money, it would be helpful.

thanks
gangstar

[josh222]

try putting a small o-ring in the drive cup

[Zoo Tv]

.....on diff and in c-hub (I think its called c-hub!) should fix the problem.

[Jetskiboy77]

I use O-rings to keep the dogbones in place too, and it works perfectly.

[Zoo Tv]

For some reason the stock ones (and the CVD's) seem shorter than they should be....even coming from the centre gearbox to the front and rear diffs.

[gangstar]

ok, thanks

[josh222]

no problem

[azizhousecallz]

i have a rs4 3 evo 2 speed. setting it up to run with different wheather conditions is a learning experience. I think i got the hang of it but my question is this. the same T15 motor geared up with a 1 speed tranny would the engine need more fuel to safegaurd it from damage if im running it harder? also should i chg the fuel from 20% to maybe 30% im noticing while tring to tune it its stalling a bit on take off. is this due to fuel bog down and if so and i lean it out a bit will it cause a problem for the life of my engine. this T15 is in my Evo Rush. And i know there is a forum for the rush but being the same engine i would like this room to answer my question because or the experienc and the hits on this board. takes to long to get an answer in the rush forum. And i just want to get the most out of this truck. I have a race clutch on this T15 and a race bell w/ engine mounts. high power air filter and alum exhaust. thanks for your help!

[KronicRacer]

stick with the 20% fuel. you get more power with 30 but youve broken it with 20% so stick with it.
are you flooring it when it bogs off the line?
if it is bogging. lean it out until it doesnt bog anymore. remember 1/8th of a turn increments or less.

[KronicRacer]

the two speed wont affect it blowing up or shorenting life of the motor when it shifts into second gear the rpms drop so they can rise to the peak rpm. its one of those gearing things.

[azizhousecallz]

the two speed wont affect it blowing up or shorenting life of the motor when it shifts into second gear the rpms drop so they can rise to the peak rpm. its one of those gearing things.


ok ! i am flooring it and it bogs down. i will play around with the needle settings. and i will stick with the 20% thanks for the help. :D

[azizhousecallz]

I won a great bid on ebay last night!
4 sets of really great foam tires for my rs4 3 retail for 27.00 a pr. and i picked the lot for 102.00 thats less than 1/2 price! I picked some of these tires up @ my local hobby shop a month ago and they are great really keeps your car on the road.

[KronicRacer]

hopefully all the tires are labled so you can identify the different compounds if there are different compounds

[azizhousecallz]

hopefully all the tires are labled so you can identify the different compounds if there are different compounds

this is a good company online and not a person. they do lots all the time from the manufacture. in fact they had 3 diferent lots for tires. believe me i have had problems before so i know what to ask before i bid. so im sure its the real deal. :D

[gangstar]

Hi,

i was wondering whether the RS4-3 has these upgrades:

1) Reverse Module
2) 2-Speed Transmission

are there any other useful upgrades (from a car with everything stock)?
Also, do you think the reverse module and 2-speed transmission makes a lot of difference? I don't have a lot of spare cash, so i was wondering which would be the best hop-up to get.

Thanks
gangstAr

[KronicRacer]

the reverse module is for the savage only.... if you want a two speed theres 3 that are available.
one from wolfpack radicals $60-70 does not come complete mising the bellhousing.
theres one silmilar from hpi and i think that may be missing parts
finally theres the standard 2 speed from hpi and it comes with everything and this would be the best bet to get.

[gangstar]

how fast would the car go with the 2-speed? Also, is there no way of having reverse in this car?

[KronicRacer]

the module would be too big for a reverse option

with the 2 speed you should se 40-45 mph top speed.

[rs4lola]

the reverse module is for the savage only.... if you want a two speed theres 3 that are available.
one from wolfpack radicals $60-70 does not come complete mising the bellhousing.
theres one silmilar from hpi and i think that may be missing parts
finally theres the standard 2 speed from hpi and it comes with everything and this would be the best bet to get.
If you want race the rs4-3 on a regular basis, get thw Wolfpack Radicals tranny. There are NO parts missing as I was able to complete install the wolfpack tranny with all parts included. Once setup, shifts every time...all the time!!! For just bashing though, just get the hpi tranny...

[Jetskiboy77]

You need gears and C clips for the Wolfpack one, so its not fully complete.

[KronicRacer]

and the oneway bearing. there is the optional oneway bearing that you can buy from wolfpack which make is more expensive.

[azizhousecallz]

In your opinion what is the best hop up for performance and the best fuel that you have used?

[KronicRacer]

If you want race the rs4-3 on a regular basis, get thw Wolfpack Radicals tranny. There are NO parts missing as I was able to complete install the wolfpack tranny with all parts included. Once setup, shifts every time...all the time!!! For just bashing though, just get the hpi tranny...


ahh heres the kicker i dont think gangstar has an ss or an evo(2 speed equipped versions), just the single speed rtr. if thats the case hes up the creek if he gets the wolfpack. theres no bellhousing with pinions included the clips jet mentioned, the one way bearing or spur gears with the wolfpack.

http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/shaft_2_speed.html

now if he has an ss or evo there should be no parts missing like you said

[gangstar]

yeah, i havnt got the ss or evo, jst the rtr.

also, while i was driving 2day, i lost a screw that holds the engine to the grill on the side of it(the on that connects to the exhaust pipe). Ther are two screws that connect to this, and i lost one of them. I don't know where to get a replacement for this part, so i was wondering if it wud b safe 2 drive it without one of the screws? Would it fall apart too easily?

[MT2 owns you]

you mean where the engine connects to the header (if you dont know its the pipe that connects to the exhaust pipe)? i dont know for sure but id doubt itd be a god idea. the gasket might break (bad) dirt could get in...? and theres the small possiblilty (im guessing) that youd crash..and mess something up pretty bad..like new exaust and maybe engine bad...these are the extremes bu i still wouldnt do it.

[Asmenoth]

Well everyone, tomorrow is the big day. The HPI challenge. I think the car's ready to go. I will let you all know how this goes and how well the .12R SS EVO performs.

:D

[gangstar]

i see....

[J Dangerously]

Hey guys. Have been away from R/C for awhile, but came back. Last cars were an RC10GT and a first-gen Schumacher. Here's what I just ordered from Tower. Whaddya all think?

HPI Woven Graphite Bumper Plate
HPI Aluminum Spring Perches Purple
HPI High Performance Air Cleaner 10mm
HPI 4-Way Glow Plug Wrench
Tower Hobbies Tower Power Glo-Starter Standard w/Meter
HPI Threaded Aluminum Shock Set 45-56mm
HPI MIP CVD Front Black Nitro RS4 3
HPI MIP CVD Rear Black Nitro RS4 3
THS Racing Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3
McCoy MC-59 Glow Plugs
DuraTrax Kwik-Pit 500cc Fuel Bottle
HPI Nitro RS4 3 Type SS Kit w/Acura RSX Body
Futaba 2PL AM
Hobbico After Run Engine Oil 2 oz.
DuraTrax Air Filter Oil 3 oz.
HPI Impreza Painted Body 200mm
HPI Rear Shock Tower Graphite Nitro 3
HPI Front Shock Tower Graphite Nitro 3
HPI Woven Graphite Upper Deck Nitro 3

Opinions? Good or bad? I'm just bashing parking lots, but I liked the idea of the huge amount of option parts available for the RS4 3.

P.S.: Anybody tried the Vantage Racing carbon fiber pipes?

"Johnny Dangerously"
F-16CG Crew Chief, USAF
Aviano Air Base, Italy

[josh222]

the fiber bumper plate doesn't fit the rs4 3.. but every thing else is good

[Jetskiboy77]

Wow, how much did you spend on that one order? And those are all good choices besides the part that Josh mentioned which I heard doesnt fit the RS4 3.

[josh222]

thats more on hop ups than on the car it self

[KronicRacer]

In your opinion what is the best hop up for performance and the best fuel that you have used?

the 2 shoe 2 speed and i havent had any problems with blue thunder.

[KronicRacer]

yeah, i havnt got the ss or evo, jst the rtr.

also, while i was driving 2day, i lost a screw that holds the engine to the grill on the side of it(the on that connects to the exhaust pipe). Ther are two screws that connect to this, and i lost one of them. I don't know where to get a replacement for this part, so i was wondering if it wud b safe 2 drive it without one of the screws? Would it fall apart too easily?


look at the pic thats what you need to do when you get new screws, place the nuts on there and when do it use a lil bit of loctite so they wont vibrate loose

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc167.jpg

[KronicRacer]

Hey guys. Have been away from R/C for awhile, but came back. Last cars were an RC10GT and a first-gen Schumacher. Here's what I just ordered from Tower. Whaddya all think?



good list so far....

[KronicRacer]

........

[gangstar]

look at the pic thats what you need to do when you get new screws, place the nuts on there and when do it use a lil bit of loctite so they wont vibrate loose

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc167.jpg

o rite, ok, thanks. So i'll get longer screws....

[gangstar]

Hey guys. Have been away from R/C for awhile, but came back. Last cars were an RC10GT and a first-gen Schumacher. Here's what I just ordered from Tower. Whaddya all think?

HPI Woven Graphite Bumper Plate
HPI Aluminum Spring Perches Purple
HPI High Performance Air Cleaner 10mm
HPI 4-Way Glow Plug Wrench
Tower Hobbies Tower Power Glo-Starter Standard w/Meter
HPI Threaded Aluminum Shock Set 45-56mm
HPI MIP CVD Front Black Nitro RS4 3
HPI MIP CVD Rear Black Nitro RS4 3
THS Racing Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3
McCoy MC-59 Glow Plugs
DuraTrax Kwik-Pit 500cc Fuel Bottle
HPI Nitro RS4 3 Type SS Kit w/Acura RSX Body
Futaba 2PL AM
Hobbico After Run Engine Oil 2 oz.
DuraTrax Air Filter Oil 3 oz.
HPI Impreza Painted Body 200mm
HPI Rear Shock Tower Graphite Nitro 3
HPI Front Shock Tower Graphite Nitro 3
HPI Woven Graphite Upper Deck Nitro 3

Opinions? Good or bad? I'm just bashing parking lots, but I liked the idea of the huge amount of option parts available for the RS4 3.

P.S.: Anybody tried the Vantage Racing carbon fiber pipes?

"Johnny Dangerously"
F-16CG Crew Chief, USAF
Aviano Air Base, Italy


that must have cost you a fortune!

[M3EVOlution]

front suspension arm broke.

Well I crashed today leaving my car with a broken axle. The plastic bar came off and the dogbone came off too. Where can I get this part. Also, will I need to change the dogbone? Also when looking into where the dogbone came out of, there is an orange rubber seal. Is that all that needs to be there or did something else fall out.

Will my steering be borken? Is it an easy fix?

Where can I buy an aluminum set? Ebay only has the rears

[KronicRacer]

the o ring is all that needs to be there

the dog bone is designed to fall out.
if it looks straight you wont need to get another one.
it also sounds like the link just popped off it should pop right back on.
if the lower arm broke go to tower hobbies or hobby shop to order the new arm.
did the suspension pins break or bend or are the straight?
the steering should be fine.. post a pic if u can

shop hpi www.hpiracing.com should have the aluminum upgradeds. dont get aluminum arms (not cost friendly). c hub and steering knuckles are recommended.

[M3EVOlution]

http://tinypic.com/4skuc8

[M3EVOlution]

http://tinypic.com/4skumq

[M3EVOlution]

Can you find any place to get them cheap?

Also another question, which pipe sounds and performs better, RD Logics of THS?

[josh222]

They both make good pipes, i think the ths is set more fot the low end

[KronicRacer]

that was a clean break you got lucky... all you need to do is replace the arm and pop the link in place cheapest place would probably be rc boyz

[M3EVOlution]

Quick question

If I get the OS .18 engine, is it a direct swap? Meaning nothing else will be changed. ie 2 speed, throttle linkage, etc....

[M3EVOlution]

RC boyz only has it for the Pro 3

http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,11321,11895,11905&pi_id=17293

Will this fit?

[josh222]

i am very sure

[M3EVOlution]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSZ7&P=Z

Will this fit for sure?

[Zoo Tv]

Having a prob with my rear diff. When I manually turn one wheel, the other should turn in the opposite direction but moves intermittently and sounds like the inner gears are slipping like mad. Any ideas?

[KronicRacer]

RC boyz only has it for the Pro 3

http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,11321,11895,11905&pi_id=17293

Will this fit?

you gotta remember that the pro elec car is 190 mm wide.....
i was sure that rcboyz would have it. check towerhobbies for sure they will have it.

[KronicRacer]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSZ7&P=Z

Will this fit for sure?

those are it

[KronicRacer]

Having a prob with my rear diff. When I manually turn one wheel, the other should turn in the opposite direction but moves intermittently and sounds like the inner gears are slipping like mad. Any ideas?


tear it down and check for broken teeth on the gears. it may just need tobe cleaned and have new grease thrown in....

[josh222]

also put a spring in it if you can

[Hockeekidd98]

got one for sale....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5972883198

[Asmenoth]

Well, the HPI challenge was fun. Not a huge event but not too small. Broke both rear uprights, on two different qualifiers. A pity I didn't win the A-main...the winner had a choice of an R40 or Pro 4. Always next time.

:D

[M3EVOlution]

Can anyone tell me which motor saver filter i should get for my evo?

[MT2 owns you]

i have this one. although i tink mine might be a 11mm im not sure. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAN7&P=ML ill be getting a much much bigger one with my OS .18 CVRX :D

[M3EVOlution]

Question about drivetrain.

1. If I move 1 front wheel all of the other wheels move in the same direction.
2. If I move the rear right wheel, the two front wheels move in the same direction BUT, the rear left does NOT move.
3. If I move the rear left wheel, the rear right wheel moves in the opposite direction.

Is this normal? Why is it that when I move the the rear right wheel, the rear left wheel does NOT move?

[M3EVOlution]

Also I just ordered my suspension arm because I recently broke my current one. Can anyone give me instructions on replacing it? It looks a bit tight to remove the screw. Thanks

[MT2 owns you]

every thing you need to know is somewhere in the manuel but heres what you do. take out the pin that connects the pin to the arm mount, take out the dogbone if you put it back in.., take out the pin that connects the arm to the c hub, disconnect the tierod/turnbuckle, and now you should be able to take out the arm. just reverse the steps to put it back in. hope that helps.

[Zoo Tv]

tear it down and check for broken teeth on the gears. it may just need tobe cleaned and have new grease thrown in....


Cheers for that. Found that 1 of the 4 screws clamping the 2 diff halves together wasn't tight enough. I (had forgotten) but remembered that I couldn't get it any tighter when assembling this in the first place. (The car is the new 18SS kit) Have now fixed and fully tightened with #1 precision screw driver - put the diff spring in the rear also - not sure what this will do to handling.....will find out soon I guess. Anyone know?

At least now the diff spins without slipping on the gears like before. Interestingly, even though the 18SS comes standard with the hardened gears, I expected to be replacing some in the rear - not so! Not a mark on them. Go HPI (!).

[trw]

the spring in the differentials acts like a limited slip differential and does just that, it limits the differentials "slip"

almost like locking it but not totally, you'll get more agressive cornering with it in the rear, the steering with be a little bit more twitchy and it will be easier to spin out.

With the spring in the front, this promotes better rear grip in cornering and smoother turning, however the turning radius is a little bit duller due to more power pulling on the front wheels (same reason why a FWD car doesnt turn as well as a RWD, but if one does, u lose more revs going around a corner)

atleast in GT4 thats how it works :D

[Zoo Tv]

the spring in the differentials acts like a limited slip differential and does just that, it limits the differentials "slip"

almost like locking it but not totally, you'll get more agressive cornering with it in the rear, the steering with be a little bit more twitchy and it will be easier to spin out.

With the spring in the front, this promotes better rear grip in cornering and smoother turning, however the turning radius is a little bit duller due to more power pulling on the front wheels (same reason why a FWD car doesnt turn as well as a RWD, but if one does, u lose more revs going around a corner)

atleast in GT4 thats how it works :D

Sweet! Thats what I was kinda hoping for! What effect will changig front tyres only to foams and keeping the stock rears? Even easier to spin out and enhance the effect of having the spring in the rear diff?

[J Dangerously]

Thanks for the comments about my order. It was about $600 all told, right in the area I expected to spend. Part of me thinks I should've just opted for an R40 and shop for a separate motor, but you gotta start somewhere! I've always liked the RS4 and the shaft drive sounds very nice.

Regarding the HPI graphite bumper plate not fitting, that's a bummer. Tower had this on their website:

"HPI has stated that this bumper plate will NOT work on the Super Nitro RS4, the RS4 Rally, the RS4MT, or the Nitro RS4MT. It will work on all other RS4 series cars."

But who knows....

Y'all take care!

"Johnny Dangerously"
F-16CG Crew Chief, USAF
Aviano Air Base, Italy

[josh222]

the bumper on the rs4 3 isn't a plate style it has 2verticle posts that go into to the foam bumper.. you will see when you get the car

[KronicRacer]

it Should have it own aluminum vertical posts included with it that the graphite plate sits on.

[Needler56]

who makes aftermarket metal disc brakes for the RS4-3?

[KronicRacer]

hot bodies used to make a cross drilled vented dual disc brake. there might be some out there still. search ebay

[snowboardgeek1]

Hey all,

I just bought an RS4 3 SS, which I will post pics of by the end of the week. I have a few questions for you racers...

How competetive is this car against a NTC3 Factory Team kit equipped car? I know the engine on my car is a 12R SS, and its somewhat comparing apples to oranges, engine performance wise. Say both cars had similar engines, similar skilled racers, who would win? Tie? Would the SS be competetive at races in general?

I was talking to a few racers in our area (L.A) and a "Pro" from back east, and they all say the HPI RS4 3 SS is a great kit car and will be very competetive against a NTC3 Factory Team Kit. In fact, some went on to say the SS is a better car because the SS has great durability.

The good thing about the RS4 3 SS compared to the RS4 3 EVO & RS4 3 RTR is the adjustable suspension and engine. Other than that, they are somewhat similar. I went with the SS for the suspension adjustablility, plus I got a great package deal with a JR XRi radio.

Anyhow, just wanted to see your thoughts on the SS compared to other cars.

Thanks!

-E

[trw]

i too think its one of the best, also given its D-kit option now prolly THE best.

also one of the few shafts cars that doesnt have torque steer.

[KronicRacer]

the downside is that it lacks adjustability. which is where all the other high end cars are better.

the ntc3 is notorious for having a glass jaw with the graphite package

the nitro three plastic get stronger with age stange but true

[snowboardgeek1]

I thought the benefits of having a RS4 3 SS is the great adjustability compared to the EVO and RTR models from HPI?

the downside is that it lacks adjustability. which is where all the other high end cars are better.

the ntc3 is notorious for having a glass jaw with the graphite package

the nitro three plastic get stronger with age stange but true

[KronicRacer]

its more adjustable than the evo and rtr. its not as adjustable as the ntc3, r40 and rdlogics g4/mongoose.

[M3EVOlution]

Question about drivetrain.

1. If I move 1 front wheel all of the other wheels move in the same direction.
2. If I move the rear right wheel, the two front wheels move in the same direction BUT, the rear left does NOT move.
3. If I move the rear left wheel, the rear right wheel moves in the opposite direction.

Is this normal? Why is it that when I move the the rear right wheel, the rear left wheel does NOT move?

Can someone tell me if this is normal? Thanks

[trw]

no thats not normal lol.

if u have a spring in one of ur differentials (lets say front) all wheels should move when turning either of the front wheels and when turing either of the rear wheels , only the opposite wheel should turn, and turn the opposite way too.

[M3EVOlution]

no thats not normal lol.

if u have a spring in one of ur differentials (lets say front) all wheels should move when turning either of the front wheels and when turing either of the rear wheels , only the opposite wheel should turn, and turn the opposite way too.
Well when turning the rear left, only the rear right wheel moves in the opposite direction. But when I move the rear right, only the front wheels move in the same direction. BUT when I alpply force on the front wheels(dont make them move) and turn the rear right wheel, that is the time when only the rear left moves in the opposite direction. :confused: Should i worry about this? I mean the car runs properly and all.

[KronicRacer]

tear it down and make sure there is plenty of grease in the diff housing and in the limited slip gears housing. use valvoline semi/or fully synthetic axle grease. they never pack enough from the factory.

[slowmt]

Is there a 1 way diff for the rs4 3? just curious becasue my car will always outrun most other cars but i get killed in the corners. almost always spin out. I though maybe it was just me but i let the people that were beating me try my car while i use theirs and they have the same results. After the reace they all chipped in to try and align it and set it up, helped out a lot but still sloppy in the corners. anyone?

[josh222]

strange with my setup i can turn as sharp as i want at as fast as i want and it just grips

[slowmt]

yeah on mine it will just understeer like crazy

[josh222]

well a one way will make it fell like there is a hand brake only, try seting the rear suspension softer and put a spring in the rear diff

[trw]

I have a little problem.

im trying to use hotbodies universals with the WPR tranny, and the shaft is a little bit different then the stock tranny, so the front universal joint is to short and rubs on the shaft hindering it, i can pull it out some to stop, but either way i need like an adapter or something for the bearing to seat properly and in the right spot.

the rear fits pretty good but the bearing doesnt have much of a surface area to keep it in line.

any suggestions?

[Silent Night]

yeah im having the exact same problem... i just decided to use the regular front shaft last night...

[Zoo Tv]

Question about drivetrain.

1. If I move 1 front wheel all of the other wheels move in the same direction.
2. If I move the rear right wheel, the two front wheels move in the same direction BUT, the rear left does NOT move.
3. If I move the rear left wheel, the rear right wheel moves in the opposite direction.

Is this normal? Why is it that when I move the the rear right wheel, the rear left wheel does NOT move?

Can someone tell me if this is normal? Thanks

Dude, mine is exactly the same after I fixed the slipping rear diff gears because they wern't clamped together tight enough. Personally, don't worry. The gears are so damn strong that not a mark was on them even though they were probably slipping / grinding for 4-5 tanks. I only bash and don't notice any handling problems. But to be fair, I am no pro driver - moderate a good assesment.

[KronicRacer]

well a one way will make it fell like there is a hand brake only, try seting the rear suspension softer and put a spring in the rear diff

an alternative to the spring is more grease. the more you put in the more it locks up. the diff will still break loose for the limited slip effect in the corners.

[KronicRacer]

who makes aftermarket metal disc brakes for the RS4-3?


check out hpi japan its pn hb61135 for the brake kit youre asking about

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/parts/w_hb61135_01.jpg

[josh222]

looks nice

[Needler56]

check out hpi japan its pn hb61135 for the brake kit youre asking about

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/parts/w_hb61135_01.jpg
perfect. thanks kronic!

[trw]

ah FINALLY! i got my universals on my WPR tranny without problems :D

and i took it out for a run, first time in 6 months where nothing went wrong :D i swear this atleast hit 65mph I COULDNT beleive it! ive NEVER seen this car go this fast before (oh yea its with my new gear ratios to)

the torque was so massive, torque steer under heavy acceleration was insane, and its just a 18 CVRX, and i also couldnt beleive how my acceleration was barely affected by the much much lower ratios, im so scared to put a TZ in this thing i predict it will just mangle the gears trying to get off the line, either that or spin the tires down to the rims.

i so wanna get a radar gun, and film this :eek:

i also have my racing clutch set on lowest engagment point, do yall think if i raise it would do anything to general speed or just affect acceleration?

[Zoo Tv]

trw, can you list your mods?

[josh222]

Well i took mine out yesterday fixxed thw fwd problem, and dam that xs is nice, it drifts in the torque steer and it is uncontrolable at wot

[KronicRacer]

you talking about the 12r xs?

[trw]

trw, can you list your mods?


engine: OS 18 CVRX with Epic 18 pullstart (to fit gear ratio)
exhaust: RD Logics turbo II
flywheel: HPI lightweight 40mm flywheel
clutch: HPI adjustable racing clutch
tranny: Wolf Pack Radicals
center shafts: hotbodies steel universals
differentials: HPI heavy duty 18SS gears
cup joints: HPI heavy duty all around
remaining dog bones: replaced with Hotbodies steel universals
wheel nuts: super-light airplane aluminum
shocks: HPI non-threaded aluminum
shock towers: carbon fiber
turnbuckles: AE blue Titanium with RPM heavy duty 4-40 ball cups (blue)
steering assembly: Hotbodies aluminum
upper deck: HPI Carbon Fiber
extras: HPI sway bar set
electronics: Futaba 3pm radio with futaba S3003 high torque servos
fuel filter: Golden horizons
brake disk: HPI Fiberglass
wheels: pair of foams I picked up from a friend at the track who was giving away 50 or so sets for free, so i grabbed some.

my gear ratio is

spurs: 39 on 43
clutchbell: red gears

[Silent Night]

can you tell me what you did to fit the universals on the wpr? i need some help...

[trw]

ill try to explain it the best i can (got plans with it this weekend, cant really take it apart for pics)

on the stock tranny shoulda been 2 black plastic peices the bearings sat on that were round, one really wide one and a thinner one, take the thinner one put the bearing on it and place on the back side of the shaft (brake disk side) but take the cone shaped bushing off first, and then slip the black adapter (or w/e u wanna call it) over the shaft to where it stops 1mm from the clutch, then slip the rear universal on and tighten it down, yay the rear is done

for the front, take the cone shaped bushing and slip it on the shaft with the tilted side of the bushing facing outward, then take the cylinder shaped bushing and slip it on next and then take the bearing and push it on and over the cylinder bushing, now heres the part where i got lucky.

next you'll need a spacer, i dont know what size ull need but i was lucky enough to have one that worked, it was a nut, bout the same width of the two bushings, i slipped it on next then slipped on the front universal after it and tightened it down, this nut was wide enough to push the front shaft out enough so the tranny shaft didnt rub it,

and the plastic adapter on the back and 2 bushing in the front made the width good enough for the tranny to seat properly in the tranny housing.

i hope i explained that good enough, ill get some pics of it later.

[Zoo Tv]

What you got on your car also Josh?

[josh222]

i ahve a .12R XS, JetSkiBoy has it to, very powerfull .12motor

[KronicRacer]

im in the air about the 12r xs and the new fantom fr1205 re decisions decisions

[josh222]

well my xs had so much pinch before breakin that it jamed up my 1/8th box and i have to use visegrips to turn it over

[Silent Night]

to my suprise.. my tz didn't have that tight of a pinch...

[M3EVOlution]

I finally installed the suspension arm, and to do this, I had to loosent the post for the steering by unscrewing the bottom screw and removing the tower(right by the fuel tank.)

So now everything is installed and i tighten that screw on the bottom and i think i overtightened it, not allowing the steering to move easily. I tried to loosen it but now the screw is getting messed up. Now when I connect the steering servo link the the steering area, and try to turn it is kind of hard and i'm afraid its putting too much stress on the steering servo.

Before, my car if you manually turn it, it was smooth like butter but now its hard to move it due to the fact that the post is overtightened and rubbing the chassis. IS it okay to let the car drive like this? ORE will the servo get messed up. I mean the screw is messed up and can't be loosened. Please Help!

[M3EVOlution]

Here's a video I just made. Aren't the wheels supposed to move freely? And I noticed that the wheels don't turn at their fulls when using the radio.

http://s22.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=34HX8FPBFKV5R30QFTC3KUVUUN

[slowmt]

Here's a video I just made. Aren't the wheels supposed to move freely? And I noticed that the wheels don't turn at their fulls when using the radio.

http://s22.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=34HX8FPBFKV5R30QFTC3KUVUUN
Find a way to get that screw out and put in a new one.

[josh222]

yes get that screw loose, are you talking about my upper suspension brace ?

[M3EVOlution]

I acnt get it loosened. What should I do? Break the plastic?

[slowmt]

I acnt get it loosened. What should I do? Break the plastic?

Well if all else fails drill it out. You will need to get a new sleeve. Part number 72001

[M3EVOlution]

What's the sleeve? And where can I get it?

[slowmt]

it is the metal part that you screw into from the top and bottom. if you drill out the bottom you will need to get a new on. should only be like $3 or so. any lhs should have it.

[M3EVOlution]

Oh so inside of that servo post is a metal piece that makes contact with the screw i medded up? Sorry, but what do you mean by "the screw that you screwed from the top and bottom."

[M3EVOlution]

Also, I have a bunch of drills and drill bits of many sizes, but how would i remove the screw with a drill? Basically I'm going to drill to break the screw, but how do I take it off from the post? That would be pretty tough, trying to remove the screw from the servo post.

Thanks for all the help!!! :o

[josh222]

there is a screw that goes in from the top and one through the chassi, what one is stuck?

[slowmt]

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nit3evo/Nitro3EVO_42.jpg

72001

[M3EVOlution]

The one that is stuck is the one from underneath the chassis.

The screw that goes on top, on the tower support is still fine I think.

Any suggestions on removing the screw?

[M3EVOlution]

How about a396. Do you think those will be damaged if I drill the screw out?

[slowmt]

no they wont. they are only snaped onto the platic steering part. No way to screw that up. Just make sure that you are carefull when you drill it out so you dont jsck up the chassis. go slow.

[M3EVOlution]

Just worrying that if i drill it out, i'll end up with no more screw lenth protruding from the plastic post and won't be able to take it off. Wish I was sure the screw was still protruding so i could just grab pliers and turn the screw counter clockwise to loosen it.

[Zoo Tv]

this ones for josh.......... after you showed me the mod you had done for you front suspension it was tooo trick not to do. bar none this is the best mod that i have seen for this car in terms of suspension tricks. im giving you major mad props for this one.... any whooo heres my version of it.

the problem that led up to this. front c hubs are floating on top and are not held by anything other than the camber tierod link. the solution making an upper adjustable a arm withot going overboard.
ive got aluminum componets on mine so i did not want to drill into the hub like in josh222's version
i put the ballstuds on the steering arm area like you did... the difference was where my placement would be on the c hubs.. i removed the top m8 bolt from the steering and put the ballstud there(after grinding down the spacer). i connected the two ballstuds with left over ntc3 v1 rear tierods (after dremmeling the ballcap ends for optimal suspension movement and good fit). and no i present the "final" product

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/DSC00372.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/DSC00361.jpg

the end result is that the c hubs now do not have any wiggle to them which leads to a more accurate castor setting, less chances of breakage, and overall a more accurate suspension.

and it looks totallly trick!

note
* i used shumacher ballcaps and ballstuds very low profie so the tires clearence do not create issues and there is optimal suspension travel.
*also used ofna aluminun hexadapters. (had to modify, minimal grinding for the wrist pin could go in more).
*used tire lock nuts from G4
*ntc3 rear tierods or 55mm in length.
*dremmel.


Kronic, I noticed you have the Hot Bodies (?) aluminium steering conversion. Did this eliminate the slop in the standard steering? (Ie, excess movement/looseness)

[trw]

yes, the aluminum assembly removes alot of the slop, and with bearings it also much smoother.

ok guys i need some help again

right now i have about $175 saved up for an OS 18 TZ (yea im insane now :p)
and i need a new exhaust header, is there a header that will fit the RD pipe and TZ or do i need a whole new exhaust? if so, I'd like some recomendations, thnx :D

[Zoo Tv]

yes, the aluminum assembly removes alot of the slop, and with bearings it also much smoother.

ok guys i need some help again

right now i have about $175 saved up for an OS 18 TZ (yea im insane now :p)
and i need a new exhaust header, is there a header that will fit the RD pipe and TZ or do i need a whole new exhaust? if so, I'd like some recomendations, thnx :D

Do the bearings come with the Hot Bodies version? Or is there another product available?

[M3EVOlution]

Oh i fixed the problem, I was able to loosen the screw down there but the steering was still tight. So then I loosened other screw and i found out that i overtightened the tower brace.

[gangstar]

iv got a lot of problems with my HPI RS4 RTR 3.

1)The Engine Header Screws keep flying off and the engine keeps falling apart.

2)The Acceleration Servo keep slipping off the Ball connecting it to the engine. This causes serious problems, as i lose control of the car's acceleration, and sometimes it flies off intoa wall at top speed. Iv got a feeling it wrecks the engine as well, because it screams really loud.

3) The rubber between the header and main engine has deteriorated.

4) The car oversteers a LOT. It often spins out of control.

5) Im not sure if the long arm for the acceleration servo is meant to be in this position. Dunno, maybe im wrong. But it hits the Receiver case when it goes far forward.

6) i cant reach parts to clean. It has A LOT of mud and dirt piled up evrywhere, but i cannot reach it, but im not sure if i shud take the car apart or not.

I wud really appreciate it if somebody cud tell me how 2 fix these things.

Im really new to R/C and this is my first Nitro R/C car. Iv used it a lot, but now im worried that it's totally falling apart. I havnt done any maintenance on it because i don't know what to do. Can somebody please outline evrything i shud do before and after running it plz? And also what things i shud use to stop it form breaking, and to stop parts flying off while im driving.

thanks
gangstAr

[josh222]

most of the slop is in the center link, which i replaced with a turnbuckle and put bearings in it, the rest is in the knuckle where it conects to the c-hub

[trw]

to gangstar:

1. use threadlock to hold them in

2. you probably need a new ballcup as that one is worn out and probably is why it keeps coming off.

3. replace it with a new gasket

4. common sense, your setup needs tweaking and/or your tires are worn out.

5. it shouldnt be hitting anything

6. and yes, u should clean it, especially if ur going to work on it later and it just looks nicer when clean.

always warm up your engine before flogging it around
keep your receiver batteries fresh
keep your air filter clean
also keep spare glow plugs around for when your current one goes dead.

also get a fuel filter, they are like $3 and keep dirt out of your engine, cheap insurance.

and also before running the car, check for loose screws and tighten them, mainly around the backplate and engine mount area as those undergo big amounts of vibration.

[KronicRacer]

iv got a lot of problems with my HPI RS4 RTR 3.

1)The Engine Header Screws keep flying off and the engine keeps falling apart.

2)The Acceleration Servo keep slipping off the Ball connecting it to the engine. This causes serious problems, as i lose control of the car's acceleration, and sometimes it flies off intoa wall at top speed. Iv got a feeling it wrecks the engine as well, because it screams really loud.

3) The rubber between the header and main engine has deteriorated.

4) The car oversteers a LOT. It often spins out of control.

5) Im not sure if the long arm for the acceleration servo is meant to be in this position. Dunno, maybe im wrong. But it hits the Receiver case when it goes far forward.

6) i cant reach parts to clean. It has A LOT of mud and dirt piled up evrywhere, but i cannot reach it, but im not sure if i shud take the car apart or not.

I wud really appreciate it if somebody cud tell me how 2 fix these things.

Im really new to R/C and this is my first Nitro R/C car. Iv used it a lot, but now im worried that it's totally falling apart. I havnt done any maintenance on it because i don't know what to do. Can somebody please outline evrything i shud do before and after running it plz? And also what things i shud use to stop it form breaking, and to stop parts flying off while im driving.

thanks
gangstAr

this is the answer to the first question http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1751817&postcount=2792

the rest of the questions....

pick up some nitro engine cleaner to clean up the car. doesnt matter what brand you use just as long as its for rc cars.

eyeball the chassis and make sure its straight. if the chassis is bent it may be time to pick up a new one.

pick up a new header like the one in my link(hpi race header)
and pick up new gaskets like trw mentioned. any gasket will do it doesnt have to be hpi specific. i use associated and ive used traxxas gaskets.

before you run the car make sure all the screws is tightened down before any session. between session breaks you might wanna give it a once over. just to make sure everythings tightened down.

if the car if its going to be stored away till the follwing week. nitro gas gets mucky when the methane evaporates and the oil dries up. so make sure that theres no excess fuel and oil left in the car when being put away. make sure theres no fuel in the tank. after thats done put a drop or two of after run oil (i use pacer after run oil, the brand doesnt matter) in the carburator. this will keep the bearings lubed and corrosion free.

[KronicRacer]

Kronic, I noticed you have the Hot Bodies (?) aluminium steering conversion. Did this eliminate the slop in the standard steering? (Ie, excess movement/looseness)

yes it is the hot bodies and it did take away slop. i used the plastic connector plate piece instead of the aluminum plate strangely enough the full aluminum setup had slop versus the plastic and aluminum. im not using bearings on this setup and its smooth.

[gangstar]

[QUOTE=trw]to gangstar:

2. you probably need a new ballcup as that one is worn out and probably is why it keeps coming off.

What is this called as a part? Just a "Ballcup"? i want to make sure i order the right thing.

thanks
gangstAr

[trw]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000431073&I=LXLS48&P=K

[josh222]

Well i was running today and i had a little crash, my radio glitched or something and my ss drifted into the curb and i was going fast, it hit the curb and flipped a few times and flew through the air, airfliter pipe, radio ctstal all flew out and the engine went nuts but i only bent a dog bone. i think my upper braces saved me from more damage :)

[Zoo Tv]

Doh!

Thanks Kronic!

[KronicRacer]

on the steering setup use both the hb steering arms with the stock connector plate

[gangstar]

thanks for ur help, because i seriously need it. lol

[KronicRacer]

anything else comes up lets us know will try to coach you through it :D

[rs4lola]

Installed R40 clutch this weekend on the rs4-3. Once I dremmeled down the clutch pins, the clutch installed real smooth. The acceleration is great!!! I am now using the red r40 pinion gears (17/20) with the rs4-3 spur gears(44/41).
Definitely would recommend this upgrade if you want to seriously race your rs4-3. This weekend I am installing the new HPI solid axle for the rs4-3. This will give me even better acceleration I hope. I will post some pictues real soon as I lost my digital camera usb cord!!!

[slowmt]

anyone using a starter box on their rs4 3? WHich one? Also why is it that my car will either run way to hot and be fast ass h e double hockey sticks or decently fast and cut out at higher rpm? What temp is optimal on the 18ss engine? Thank you in advance yall.

[josh222]

Well i know RS4lola, Jetskiboy and i all run boxxes and they are great, good running temps are about 200-280F range keep mine in the 220-260 range..

RS4Lola how much for that clutch? and what did you have to to to the clutch pins?

[KronicRacer]

lightly grind (dremmel)the pins so they are level with the clutch shoe. from the factory they stick out a 1mm to 1/2mm. ive used the hotbodies before and it was great. i may switch to the r40 clutch this time round since they have a standard crank adapter.

im finishing up the instructions and list for the conversion more on that in a few days

[josh222]

i will have 40bucks next week

[Zoo Tv]

Quickie, anyone used orknow if there is a slide carb kit to suit the 18SS engine?

[NitroTXT1]

I have a quick question what's the best chassis in everyone's op? cause i am going to buy a semi modded roller soon and i'll need a solid platform since it'll be my racer

[josh222]

Zootv look for the carb from the .12R SC, it's carb is a direct drop in since the old .12R SS/SC have same carb
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPK3&P=7

As for a chassi there is many to chose from, the HPI super chassi is problay one of the best due to it being made from 7075T6 aluminum 3mm thick

[Zoo Tv]

Thanks Josh.

Was trying to get my old head around gear ratios the other day. Firstly, any one know the gear ratio on the SS? Am trying to find a ratio chart to see if I can change my gears for slightly higher top speed.
I have the 18SS kit which has the red (does the colour mean something?) pinions and 43/47 spurs. If I reduce the pinion, I lose accel. and gain top end don't I?
Do I have to change the spur if I change the pinion? Can only think that the engine may not have enough room to mesh the gears correctly.

BTW, Josh and Kronic I think, thanks for your work on the "A-arm" mod. Chose to order the parts to do this and put a turnbuckle on the steering instead of bling-bling aluminium uprights etc. Function over form there I guess!!

[KronicRacer]

theres more coming in the function over form area. ill post the beginning later today.

the best chassis is the hpi 7075t6 it adds ajustability

[KronicRacer]

heres how it stared...... over a month ago

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc031.jpg

the rear end has needed work and in the initial phase i figured try capturing the rear like in the front. this configuration works. the problem is there is no adjustability.......... this is were in conversation with josh he gave me an idea to head in a different direction. conversions t.b.c.

[josh222]

ZooTV, for the speed you already have the best pinions for speed, all you can do is change spurs, try going to a 45 and 41 spur or a 43 and 39 for more speed, the 45/41 will give a boost in speed and hte 43/39 will be the biggest

[josh222]

kronic, did you get the part # for the final master work?
and the price estimate

[Zoo Tv]

Kronic, what are those parts?!?!? That looks a treat.

edit: Do you have enough clearance for the shock to fully compress? Looks tight. You are obviously using the suspension hole previously utilised for the body work holders. The parts look like upperdeck posts and suspension arms. Perhaps these parts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNV51&P=0

Double edit: Did you ever do an instruction guide for the front a-arm conversion? I have stock uprights and am curious if I ahve to locate the turnbuckle to the lower hole and drill a small hole to put the new ball stud in? This would probably apply for the rear.....

[josh222]

what i did was put my turnbuckle link for the uprite in the bottom hole and drilled through the top hole and put a bell screw in it

[Zoo Tv]

Thought so......Need to know off Kronic what that other rear part # is though....

[rs4lola]

heres how it stared...... over a month ago

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc031.jpg

the rear end has needed work and in the initial phase i figured try capturing the rear like in the front. this configuration works. the problem is there is no adjustability.......... this is were in conversation with josh he gave me an idea to head in a different direction. conversions t.b.c.
Great conversion!!! I would recommend though that if you race you want the front end to be much stiffer than the rear end as the rs4-3 has plenty of steering already. I am using the rear sway bar from a Serpent 950 as a fron sway bar and it works great. The back end really sticks now as the stiffer front end gives more traction to the rear. Once you can control the rear end on a rs4-3, it can be just as competeive as any other racer out there. Hopefully an rs4-4 will come out with an improved suspension...

[KronicRacer]

LMAO that was just the tip of the iceberge

guys remember that was only phase one

phase two went a lil more like this ....... after talking to josh he brought up using the rear end of an r40 i knew that was gold because it would be more of a solid platform to work from with pivot ball carriers. the tough part would be modifying the parts. so the challenge was this: make the mod without cutting or grinding so the search began with finding a pivot ball arm that would fit the nitro 3. first up was the r40 if anyone has ever seen the r40 and then looked at the arms of the nitro 3 you realize that they do not match up at all and that grinding and cutting would be required. so as quickly as that came to mind it left becaus ethe arms of an r40 are shorter than the nitro 3 and the rear would go down to 190mm or so with the pivot balls in securely in the arms

next up was the team magic g4. after tearing the rear end down i realized that the search had come to an end and rather quickly too. the mounting locations are identical to the nirto 3. so the bolting began certian parts had to be removed from the rear the silver aluminum brace for the heavier duty g4 arms to fit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc49.jpg

to tell the truth these arms were key to the entire project.

as a side note i found out that the r40 hub carriers fit the g4 arms but in this project i went all g4 for the rear. heres the example of the r40 hub mounted on the g4 arms
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc053.jpg
the shock towers will get in the way when you put in the droop to the rear.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc057.jpg
and that was using my setup. now incase youre wondering why didnt he try the standard r40 set up, why all the fancy crap. heres what happened.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc079.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc083.jpg
make note that the arms have no droop screw installed at this point of development
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc083.jpg
so rather than wasting time to find the optimal position for the links i turned to the g4 hub carriers. t.b.c..............

[KronicRacer]

also using the r40 meant that i would have to grind the axles on the diff or grind the dogbones themselves so they could fit. so that was another downside to the r40 hub carriers and the dog bones were too short. another reason why i went with the g4 arms :cool:

[KronicRacer]

Kronic, what are those parts?!?!? That looks a treat.

edit: Do you have enough clearance for the shock to fully compress? Looks tight. You are obviously using the suspension hole previously utilised for the body work holders. The parts look like upperdeck posts and suspension arms. Perhaps these parts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNV51&P=0

Double edit: Did you ever do an instruction guide for the front a-arm conversion? I have stock uprights and am curious if I ahve to locate the turnbuckle to the lower hole and drill a small hole to put the new ball stud in? This would probably apply for the rear.....

patience my man all will be revealed on the suspension.

also the way i did the front suspension modification will also work on the plastic parts all you need is to get the ballstud from lunsford racing.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXGPP3


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNV51&P=0
those would work. mine were from hardcore racing off of my ntc3 ti upperdeck. also the middle brace is from the steering plate for the nitro 3 aluminum steering. instead of purple i stripped it down to bare aluminum.

as for the instructions for the front mod i havent worked on that yet. as soon as im done with the writeup on this rear conversion ill go ahead and write one up for the front.

[KronicRacer]

kronic, did you get the part # for the final master work?
and the price estimate
got the part numbers but no prices yet

[trw]

i wanted to do Josh's mod for the front but my foams are to wide (need new ones anyways)

as for the rear, im impressed kronic, i could sit there all night trying to think and never come up with that.

now whats this on the a rear r40 something? so let me get this strait, your trying to use an r40 rear end on that thing? whats exactly the benefit? a quicker differential? well to begin with it belt driven not shaft (ima stop before i ramble on about something i might be wrong about to begin with lol )

[josh222]

not r40, Trinty G4, the will let you have adjustable rear toe-in and but setups because of this, no more preset hubs

[KronicRacer]

if youre using the 7075t6 droop setting beome available(which is what i meant to say)
in addition to that the rear width can be more or less 200mm thanks to the pivot balls

trw. what im posting is the process that it took of what to and what not to do. so there is a lil more to go. not only that trying to remember everything so that when i give you guys the instructions you can have a reference to look at. that or if you guys see something that might be improved to give me the imput or share something...... i lay it out for yall to play it out :D

heck even josh hasnt seen what i have completed (if i did show you the final setup i have right now my memory is shot :p)

i want to hear how this will handle with the stage d package which i might get since my income taxes came in.

[KronicRacer]

i wanted to do Josh's mod for the front but my foams are to wide (need new ones anyways)

as for the rear, im impressed kronic, i could sit there all night trying to think and never come up with that.

now whats this on the a rear r40 something? so let me get this strait, your trying to use an r40 rear end on that thing? whats exactly the benefit? a quicker differential? well to begin with it belt driven not shaft (ima stop before i ramble on about something i might be wrong about to begin with lol )


also how are the foams too wide? running 30 mm upfront instead of 26mm or something?

just to clarify that what im posting is a suspension only mod. nothing to do with the diffs. i made a point to leave these the same. and like josh said adjustments are now available that were never there before

another thought that came to mind right now is..... since the stage d has a totally new chassis does it have a droop screw mounting location on the chassis. :confused:

[trw]

i dont know the size, they are same size as rears, but i got em off a guy at the track who brought a bag of like 25 pairs and he was giving them out for free so i asked him if he could pull out some that would work well for my car, and he handed me a set.

but the set makes the car turn on a dime (almost literally) and very stable at high speeds so im not gripeing.

[josh222]

Kronic, yes it does have the droop screw stuff

[KronicRacer]

thats effin awsome! you are talking stage d package right?(just making sure)

[KronicRacer]

just looked it over at the hpi website. thats a hot chassis

[josh222]

yes but they need to make a re manifold

[KronicRacer]

good thing ive still got my se fantom then

[KronicRacer]

i just picked up a stage d kit from ebay.....

[josh222]

cool, i just got a Ford GT body, painted candy blue and has the classic stripes down the car :)

[M3EVOlution]

When strarting my car with the rotostart, i accidentally hit the spring and now the spring is broken. If I change all 4 springs, how hard is it to do this? Do I have to refill the shocks with oil? Also how much would 4 springs cost for my hpi rs4 3 evo? I pretty much want a spring that is good for racing but is good for bashing as well. Also, why is it that my car keeps sliding, the tires are still new! (I don't know if it's because I changed my right a arm.)

[josh222]

springs are easy to change and there is now real spring good for both because it all depends on your set up, the stock hpi tires are as hard as rocks

[Zoo Tv]

Josh / Kronic, will the rear end mod be able to be installed as a captured rear end only? Like Kronics first photo with the alu steering plate and chassis supporters?

[josh222]

you will be able to use a normal ball link if you want and you don't need that rear brace kronic has, it helps a bit but the g4 suspension as far as i know has a lot less slop than rs4 3 parts

[Zoo Tv]

I actually meant keeping the RS4 hub carriers/uprights and using the rear brace and spacer. Or will we have to use G4 suspension to have an upper "A" arm suspension. Adjustable toe not that important at this stage - just eliminating the movement.

[Zoo Tv]

heres how it stared...... over a month ago

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc031.jpg

the rear end has needed work and in the initial phase i figured try capturing the rear like in the front. this configuration works. the problem is there is no adjustability.......... this is were in conversation with josh he gave me an idea to head in a different direction. conversions t.b.c.

Josh / Kronic - this is what I mean. An "A" arm suspension on RS4 uprights. Will this be possible?

[KronicRacer]

yes.... its possible one thing it wont be smooth if you use that setup in that pic. thats why i abandoned the idea. even though i did come up with something during the development of the new rear that will make it smooth with the stock knuckles. :cool:


on a side note i read over the stage d conversion instructions on the hpi website.........
i dont like it
you have to go back to the stock 2speed. since they provide a sshorter 2speed shaft.
so i either have to
1 setup another car which is pointless
2 modify the wolfpack 2 speed on the current nitro 3
3 sell the stage d conversion. after i get it from ebay(remeber i already ordered and paid for it.:()
:mad:

so what do you guys think i should do?:confused:

[trw]

you wont get the WPR tranny to fit, the way the clutch mounts and where it sits is just near impossible to duplicate unless you have the right tools.

however ive never seen how much shorter the 2 speed shaft is, you could try and cut the WPR shaft down to the same length, it would probably elliminate needing bushings as spacers when using hotbodies universals for me :D

however i like more weight in the rear, so i wont ever be getting the D kit.

but if you put your battery pack next to the fuel tank on top the upper deck, the car seems perfectly balanced to me, i can pick it up and let it balance on 1 finger and it sits level.

[KronicRacer]

i put in an email to wolfgang over at wpr to see what he says. it would be awsome if he could come up with something

[gangstar]

hi,

im thinking of getting a new engine for my r34 rtr 3. It has the stock HPI 15fe right now. Dus anybody know better, faster engine that fits in the car?

also, i kno u may think im quite stupid wen i say this, but, im also thinking about getting the 2-speed for it, but i dont hav a clue about wat it actually is. Do you need a 3-channel radio for it?

thanks
gangstar

[KronicRacer]

hi,

im thinking of getting a new engine for my r34 rtr 3. It has the stock HPI 15fe right now. Dus anybody know better, faster engine that fits in the car?

also, i kno u may think im quite stupid wen i say this, but, im also thinking about getting the 2-speed for it, but i dont hav a clue about wat it actually is. Do you need a 3-channel radio for it?

thanks
gangstar

you can basically use the .12-.18 motors in this car.
fantom .fr12 best bang for the buck IMO
os engines
hpi .12rxs re(very good motor ask josh about it) or the hpi .18ss

with the two speed you wont need the 3 channel radio for the car its nothing electrical realted. with the two speed your adding another gear to the car so it can go faster more easily and safely for the motor.

my 2 cents are get the two speed before you get a new motor.

[gangstar]

ok, cool, thanks. Ill get the 2spd first. Ill probably go for the cheapest motor, bcoz i havnt got a v.big budget.

[josh222]

CVR18 is 90bucks and i have a 20bucks off coupon if you want :) from towerhobbies

[gangstar]

thanks, the problem for me is that i live in England, and so postage adds up quite a bit, so i probably wont go for towerhobbies. :( i know it's the best place to get parts, but not only does postage cost quite a bit, it takes a looonnng time to arrive, and no insurance either.

[Zoo Tv]

yes.... its possible one thing it wont be smooth if you use that setup in that pic. thats why i abandoned the idea. even though i did come up with something during the development of the new rear that will make it smooth with the stock knuckles. :cool:


on a side note i read over the stage d conversion instructions on the hpi website.........
i dont like it
you have to go back to the stock 2speed. since they provide a sshorter 2speed shaft.
so i either have to
1 setup another car which is pointless
2 modify the wolfpack 2 speed on the current nitro 3
3 sell the stage d conversion. after i get it from ebay(remeber i already ordered and paid for it.:()
:mad:

so what do you guys think i should do?:confused:

Kronic, I very much like the idea of keeping the stock knuckles - ofcourse depending on how much the final setup will cost......

Re your question - is there really that much performance difference between the WPR 2 speed and stock?

[josh222]

yes there is, with the regular 2-speed and powerfull high reving engine like wiht my xs the shifts are all ove the place but the wpr 2-speed use 2 clutch shoes instead of one

[Zoo Tv]

Is the HPI 18SS considered a high revving engine?

[trw]

from my standpoint, the performance difference between the WPR tranny and stock one was like night and day.

even with my OS 18 CVR the stock tranny wouldnt shift, i got the WPR tranny and it shifts absolutely every single time, not to mention it shifts a bit faster then the stock one as well.

never ever has it missed a shift, always shifts at the exact same time, and does it quickly and percisely (sp?)

if u wanna see a picture of it, go to page 76 in this thread, i posted some pics of mine when i got it a while ago

[KronicRacer]

Kronic, I very much like the idea of keeping the stock knuckles - ofcourse depending on how much the final setup will cost......

Re your question - is there really that much performance difference between the WPR 2 speed and stock?

consistency

[M3EVOlution]

How low should I run my body? Do I put it high or low? Can anyone confirm if raising the body posts all around by 1 bump from the lowest setting, is okay?

[M3EVOlution]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5975388239&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

Is this any good?

And how about sway bars? Do they really help the handling of the car? And where can I get them? And how's the install?

[Zoo Tv]

How low should I run my body? Do I put it high or low? Can anyone confirm if raising the body posts all around by 1 bump from the lowest setting, is okay?

The lower you go (ie having the body look realistic in relation to the wheels) will mean over larger bumps the body can scrape the road lifting the body and possible unsettling the chassis (ie lifting the tyres off the deck momentarily). This is obviously an extreme case. Other problems will be under suspension compression the tyre will rump/scuff on the body, possibly damaging the tyre.

[josh222]

Some bodies like the Ford GT 40 I have must be run low for the wheels to fit in the wheel wells right.

[KronicRacer]

Kronic, I very much like the idea of keeping the stock knuckles - ofcourse depending on how much the final setup will cost......



ill do the writeup for the revised version of the stock hubs too then.....

[richkay228]

from my standpoint, the performance difference between the WPR tranny and stock one was like night and day.

even with my OS 18 CVR the stock tranny wouldnt shift, i got the WPR tranny and it shifts absolutely every single time, not to mention it shifts a bit faster then the stock one as well.

never ever has it missed a shift, always shifts at the exact same time, and does it quickly and percisely (sp?)

if u wanna see a picture of it, go to page 76 in this thread, i posted some pics of mine when i got it a while ago

I cant really understand why people have so many inconsistant shifting problems with the RS4 3 2 speed. I have an SS that originally had the .12SS, shifted fine. I swapped to an Epic .18 bigbore, the shift was then slightly too late, turned the screw 1/3 turn CCW, and shifted perfect. I now have a Picco .26 outlaw big block, and another slight CCW tweak, and the tranny still shifts perfect. These 2 speeds don't care weather you have a .15FE terd engine, or a Picco .26 pushing 2.6 hp. They are engineered to shift at a given spur gear speed. Centrifugal speed forces the steel pawl outward until it catches the pin. I constantly hear of a guy swapping a different engine and now his 2 speed shifts horrible? I don't get it.
Rich

[trw]

actually, the engine power does matter.

have you ever tried making your engine real rich? when you do, the tranny wont shift, on stronger engines, it shifts later, the stronger the engine, the sooner it shifts, because the engine hits that RPM sooner.

the actual RPM engagement point may stay the same, but the time it takes for a certain engine compared to another to hit that RPM may be different.

_____________

now the issue with a stock RS4 3 tranny i have no clue what exactly is wrong with them, some people got lucky and got ones that worked properly, others got ones that didnt work at all (me)and others got ones that only worked some of the time.

even if the stock tranny worked, it shifts slow and sometimes doesnt shift after sitting for a while.
usually you have to wait for the clutch shoe to grab the pin on the stock tranny, and sometimes it could slip from the pin i assume.

the WPR uses a 2-shoe clutch that makes a full circle when both shoes are put back to back as they are assembled, and they grab the ENTIRE surface(except about 1mm in the middle where they expand apart) area of the outer clutch bell when expanded instantly engaging the 2nd gear.

more powerful engines also spin the tranny faster (depending on peak RPMs) and accelerate faster, and that one clutch shoe on the stock tranny is swinging more violently, which makes it harder for it to catch the pin, which gives you your inconsistency problem.

[richkay228]

actually, the engine power does matter.

have you ever tried making your engine real rich? when you do, the tranny wont shift, on stronger engines, it shifts later, the stronger the engine, the sooner it shifts, because the engine hits that RPM sooner.

the actual RPM engagement point may stay the same, but the time it takes for a certain engine compared to another to hit that RPM may be different.

_____________

now the issue with a stock RS4 3 tranny i have no clue what exactly is wrong with them, some people got lucky and got ones that worked properly, others got ones that didnt work at all (me)and others got ones that only worked some of the time.

even if the stock tranny worked, it shifts slow and sometimes doesnt shift after sitting for a while.
usually you have to wait for the clutch shoe to grab the pin on the stock tranny, and sometimes it could slip from the pin i assume.

the WPR uses a 2-shoe clutch that makes a full circle when both shoes are put back to back as they are assembled, and they grab the ENTIRE surface(except about 1mm in the middle where they expand apart) area of the outer clutch bell when expanded instantly engaging the 2nd gear.

more powerful engines also spin the tranny faster (depending on peak RPMs) and accelerate faster, and that one clutch shoe on the stock tranny is swinging more violently, which makes it harder for it to catch the pin, which gives you your inconsistency problem.

Well not to be a know-it-all I basically disagree with everything you are saying. First off in your opening quote you completely contradict yourself as to weather a powerfull engine shifts earlier or later. The reason a rich engine won't shift is simply because more rich means less peak rpm's which means no shift. I have 3 different cam type 2 speeds they all work on exactly the same principal: centrifugal motion. The HPI 2 speed is extremely simple and effective. There are 3 simple reasons why the tranny wont shift:#1 the spring is adjusted too tight. #2 the spring is way too loose and the car is immediately shifting into 2nd gear, making you think it's not shifting at all. And 3rd, its physically possible on the RS4 3 2 speed to install the aluminum shift cam carrier backwards, and then the tranny won't shift at all ( I did this TWICE !!). As long as your engine is cleanly tuned to always pull rpm's slightly beyond the shift point. It will shift every time. Remember all 2 speeds are "close ratio" which means the rpm's won't drop a lot when the car shifts into second gear. The only reason you even hear the RPM's drop slightly is because the engine is sensing a heavier resistance load from the smaller 2nd gear spur.
Rich

[trw]

oops, i think in my first quote i started off saying one thing, and forgot to backspace the "shifting later" part and continued on.

when i had the stock tranny, it never mattered how i adjusted the spring, it wasnt reliable worth anything, i took the darn thing apart atleast 5 times and got the same results, so i just said screw it and got a WPR tranny.

*edit* upon further observation of the stock tranny i dont see myself how the clutch shoe could slip from the pin, which is why i assumed before, that was my only logical reason of the tranny's inconsistency, lol im done here, next persons turn.......

*2nd edit* UGH!! im gonna stop posting period lol, or just stick to asking questions

[rs4lola]

Well not to be a know-it-all I basically disagree with everything you are saying. First off in your opening quote you completely contradict yourself as to weather a powerfull engine shifts earlier or later. The reason a rich engine won't shift is simply because more rich means less peak rpm's which means no shift. I have 3 different cam type 2 speeds they all work on exactly the same principal: centrifugal motion. The HPI 2 speed is extremely simple and effective. There are 3 simple reasons why the tranny wont shift:#1 the spring is adjusted too tight. #2 the spring is way too loose and the car is immediately shifting into 2nd gear, making you think it's not shifting at all. And 3rd, its physically possible on the RS4 3 2 speed to install the aluminum shift cam carrier backwards, and then the tranny won't shift at all ( I did this TWICE !!). As long as your engine is cleanly tuned to always pull rpm's slightly beyond the shift point. It will shift every time. Remember all 2 speeds are "close ratio" which means the rpm's won't drop a lot when the car shifts into second gear. The only reason you even hear the RPM's drop slightly is because the engine is sensing a heavier resistance load from the smaller 2nd gear spur.
Rich
I too used the original rs4-3ss 2-speed tranny and it was very inconsitent in shifting. I would adjust it and it would shift a few times and then would stop. each time it would take longer and longer to shift. I cleaned, took apart, re-adjusted, reinstalled more than 10 times with both the stock ss .12 and a OS .18 CVR. No luck whatso ever. Installed the WPR, followed the instructions ONCE, turn both screws in 3 turns, shifts EVERY TIME same spot. Loosen both screws half a turn, engine shifts earlier EVERY TIME. Installed NovaRossi .12 racing engine, engine shifts EVERY TIME!!! If the HPI stock tranny works for you, great but if you race and you want guarenteed consitency, get the WPR tranny...

[KronicRacer]

yes but they need to make a re manifold

i just realized that we will be able to use the re manifold from the ntc3 with the stage d conversion

[josh222]

still won't work, it only has one bend, and the exhaust would face the front of the car and right at the front wheel

[Zoo Tv]

Lads......have a question on setup. Please keep in mind that suspension wise I have a stock RS4 3 18SS.

What would be a good baseline setup for Netball ball court / smooth tarmac driving. Not too many bumps - but not 100% jet smooth. I mean:

1) Which degree uprights?
2) What shock mounting holes?
3) What camber setting (length of tie rod?)
4) What amount of pre-load on shocks? (Remember they are stock, non-threaded shocks......probably mean amount of spacers in the pre-laod?)

Cheers,

[KronicRacer]

still won't work, it only has one bend, and the exhaust would face the front of the car and right at the front wheel
it will.... *making note test the re ntc3 exhaust system i have on my ntc3 tonight :p

zt
there should be a good basee line in the back of the manual for the stock configuration.

[rs4lola]

still won't work, it only has one bend, and the exhaust would face the front of the car and right at the front wheelSorry josh...but the NTC3 exhaust works/fits perfectly on an State D drift kit. The
exhaust wil fit on the right side of the engine, the same side as any exhaust fits on the rs4. For the stage d kit, a rear-exhaust engine can definitely use any NTC3 exhaust...

[KronicRacer]

it will ill post a picture later

[Silent Night]

heh.. I drift just fine with my tz and rubber tires... I don't think I'll be needing the stage d kit anytime soon...Maybe just those tires and I'll be good to go...

[KronicRacer]

heres a comparison on how the exhaust would line up if a rear exhaust was used on the nitro 3 as you can see it will fit
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3022.jpg

[josh222]

you never said anything about using 2 manifolds toghter

[KronicRacer]

the ae tuned pipe is shaped in the same manner...
this

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascg1763.jpg

and

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascg1759.jpg

[Silent Night]

pics not working...

[brc358]

Question on diff. I just picked up a good rtr 3 and did all the maint. on it. Shocks,springs,bearings adjustment, good cleaning. The car actually runs good, but I have a problem with acceleration. Under hard accleceration on a hard left hand turn, the car really corners great. But the slightest turn to the right under hard acceleration, the car will spin out imediatley. It will start a doughnut, until the throttle is released. Could this be a diff. problem? This is the only area I have not got into as far as maintenance.

Thanks for the help. BRC

[KronicRacer]

heres the pics again

[KronicRacer]

and this

[josh222]

sick, i think i will get the kit :p

[KronicRacer]

Question on diff. I just picked up a good rtr 3 and did all the maint. on it. Shocks,springs,bearings adjustment, good cleaning. The car actually runs good, but I have a problem with acceleration. Under hard accleceration on a hard left hand turn, the car really corners great. But the slightest turn to the right under hard acceleration, the car will spin out imediatley. It will start a doughnut, until the throttle is released. Could this be a diff. problem? This is the only area I have not got into as far as maintenance.

Thanks for the help. BRC


sorry i over looked your post
how many tanks have you run so far?

it might be the diffs. it would not hurt to add new grease to them at this point. also look into radio adjustments. the radio steering trim adjustment might be off slightly. is it the stock airtronics?

[brc358]

sorry i over looked your post
how many tanks have you run so far?

it might be the diffs. it would not hurt to add new grease to them at this point. also look into radio adjustments. the radio steering trim adjustment might be off slightly. is it the stock airtronics?

I have checked all the radio adjustments, new servos,<old ones were trash>and just about everything else but the diffs.I picked up the car used so I am not sure on how much fuel has gone through it,but the diffs are my last item to check. I think I got carried away the other day, and bought four more cars the same day, and this is one that was in the batch.Anyone looking for GOOD cars to buy? I have I think 11 nitro cars and three Monster trucks. This HPI that I am speaking about has by far the most usage though.

[josh222]

it's called torque steer and most shaft drive cars have it, try sticking some o-rings in the drive cup on the diff to get rid of slop

[rs4lola]

also using the r40 meant that i would have to grind the axles on the diff or grind the dogbones themselves so they could fit. so that was another downside to the r40 hub carriers and the dog bones were too short. another reason why i went with the g4 arms :cool:
Very interested in how you installed the G4/Mongoose rear arms with thr R40 pivot ball hubs. What axles did you use and can I use the r40 rear axles?? I don't think the r40 rear axles will fit the rs4-3 rear diff though. Hopefully with this mod, the rear end will have better control. I installed a solid axle into the front and while it pulls great comming out of corners, the car oversteers easily when braking. I am now putting in softer springs and adjusting the rear roll center as well to see if I can cure this problem. Any suggestions would be most helpful...

[josh222]

Kronic used front center drive shafts

[KronicRacer]

the time is coming for part 3 of my write up

you cant use the r40 hubs since they are cvd(which are too short) based. the beauty of the g4 (the stock version) is that it is dog bone based so thats why i was able to use the center dogbones from the nitro 3

[KronicRacer]

I have checked all the radio adjustments, new servos,<old ones were trash>and just about everything else but the diffs.I picked up the car used so I am not sure on how much fuel has gone through it,but the diffs are my last item to check. I think I got carried away the other day, and bought four more cars the same day, and this is one that was in the batch.Anyone looking for GOOD cars to buy? I have I think 11 nitro cars and three Monster trucks. This HPI that I am speaking about has by far the most usage though.

also do you have the tools to check the toe in. also if you have turnbuckles on the car the toe in may be off. try rebuilding the diffs first. pick up some axel grease from the car parts shop

[josh222]

hey Kronic can you get a pic with the NTC3 exhaust on the stage d? i found a nice RD turbo pipe set for $55USD same price as the AE stuff

[brc358]

also do you have the tools to check the toe in. also if you have turnbuckles on the car the toe in may be off. try rebuilding the diffs first. pick up some axel grease from the car parts shop


I checked all toe -in and camber. I bought the new Hurdy set-up station<simply amazing if anybody is thinking about buying one>, so I am good there. I will take the diffs apart today. I have four other shaft driven cars, and the torque steer in not nearly as bad as this one car. So I think it has to be in the diffs.

Thanks everyone, when I get in going again, I will post it in case anyone else has this problem.

[josh222]

and put some o-rings in the drive cups to stop the dog bones from sliding back and forth...

[leoboy254]

hey guys, i wanted to know some good engines that are side(i prefer these) or rear exhaust engine that are good for the rs4 3ss, but won't shred any drivetrain parts.

[Silent Night]

lets see.....
side exhaust: fantom .12 i heard was really good... the o.s .18 crv-x is a screamer which definetly has the best bang for the buck and is very reliable..

rear exhaust: the list goes on and on.. but some good ones would be some nova rossi's for racing... the sirio .12 evo 2 for part time racing.. or the .18 tz for brute power and speed... (don't listen to anybody saying it will kill your drive train.. I have a tz in my rs4 3 and have 0 broken drive train parts...)

[KronicRacer]

the fantom fr12 rear exhaust version is good too. hpi 12r xs is another good one.

well untill i can get a two speed shaft i wont be converting the wolfpack 2 speed for the stage d. also i will be setting up another car. i have enough spares to do so.

anyways ive got to go through the pictures and gather my notes and i should have part 3 of the rear suspension upgrade conversion up.

[Zoo Tv]

the fantom fr12 rear exhaust version is good too. hpi 12r xs is another good one.

well untill i can get a two speed shaft i wont be converting the wolfpack 2 speed for the stage d. also i will be setting up another car. i have enough spares to do so.

anyways ive got to go through the pictures and gather my notes and i should have part 3 of the rear suspension upgrade conversion up.


Very much looking forward to it Kronic. Any time to do the part #'s and price for part 2 of the conversion?

[leoboy254]

i rather get the fantom side exhaust because i might need to use stock pipe. can anyone give me a website for the fantom. i not if my lhs has one. i'll check. i think i should get .12 engine because i want to keep the weight balance, but then again my race track allows any small block engine so i'll see

[josh222]

why would you want to use the junk plastic pipe? and if you use a re engine and all you need is a re maifold and you can use the stock style pipe if you want, check out the .12R XS and OS TR for good .12 re engines that are preety cheap

[leoboy254]

i hae a major problem. i just came back from running the car. heres the problem: the rear center driveshaft won't spin but front does. so only the front wheel spin under power while the rear ones dont, but they can spin. also in the rear, the socket in the diff for the rear right driveshaft is sticking out and is all woblely. should take apart the rear diff and the two speed. man this really sucks.

[snowboardgeek1]

Hey guys

I'm in need of some desperate help. I have two questions.

The inner sleeve/cylinder barrel. Which way does it face? There's 4 ports on it, but which one points towards the exhaust, etc. I see there's a notch up top, but I have no idea where thats supposed to point towards.

Also, do hobby shops sell exhaust bolts? I had one pop out and another that had a stripped head. Good thing I was able to get it out. But do hobby shops sell just the bolts?

Thanks for any help.

[Silent Night]

i hae a major problem. i just came back from running the car. heres the problem: the rear center driveshaft won't spin but front does. so only the front wheel spin under power while the rear ones dont, but they can spin. also in the rear, the socket in the diff for the rear right driveshaft is sticking out and is all woblely. should take apart the rear diff and the two speed. man this really sucks.

For you rear center, try checking to see if the set screw that connects the drive cup to the center gear shaft is tightened on the notch. Add a bit of locktite so