HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[slowmt]

dont know. maybe cut out the portion that has some in it and put a coupler?

[gangstar]

dont know. maybe cut out the portion that has some in it and put a coupler?

what's a coupler?

[gangstar]

ok, plzzz help. I cleaned out the fuel tubes eventually. And then i cut the fuel tube through which the fuel goes TO the engine. I put a fuel filter in between this cut tube. I put everything together, and then tried it out. it didnt start for ages, then i pumped more fuel in (by pressing that button on the fuel tank) then it started, but it was at full speed. And it went for a couple seconds at full speed then stopped. It did this twice again when i tried. But then the 4th time i tried to decelerate quickly and it stopped wen i did. Please note: im running it without a engine head gasket (because it hasnt arrived yet).

these are problems you might want to know about (if they affect the runnign of the car):

1) wen i turn one of the wheels by hand, only the wheel horizontal to it turns (ie. if i turn the back left wheel, the back right wheel turns as well, and vice versa, same with the front wheels).

i tried turning the gear connected to the engine and there's a lot of resistance, and the same resistance wen i turn the main big gear.

2) the acceration servo starts off really far forward. Wen i accelerate it pushes the long bar so far forward that it hits the receiver case.

anyone got any ideas?

thanks
gangstar

[leoboy254]

i hae a major problem. i just came back from running the car. heres the problem: the rear center driveshaft won't spin but front does. so only the front wheel spin under power while the rear ones dont, but they can spin. also in the rear, the socket in the diff for the rear right driveshaft is sticking out and is all woblely. should take apart the rear diff and the two speed. man this really sucks.
can you guys explain what the problem is and how to fix it. plz in detail.
i have right now a front wheel drive rs4 3. can barely move.

[gangstar]

iv fixed most of my issues now. To fix the wheels not moving 4wd together, i reassembled the gears but i placed a piece of paper between the gears (as advised by someone else) to leave a small gap. The gears now move nice and smooth.

btw, i put heavy weight diff grease on the gears, is that ok? it's jst that, the grease is kind of sticky, and now im regretting putting it on; it doesn't seem like it's meant for gears...

[gangstar]

i fixed the servo being too far forward problem by unscrewing the thing that turns on top of the servo, then placing it back on turned more clockwise. Then i screwed it together again, and now it starts at that point rather than further forward.

i cant run my car though, until my new header gasket arrives. I hope everything works though.

btw, wat is a header gasket for? wat dus it do other than jst take up space? lol, i dont understand...

[slowmt]

header gasket is a seal. makes sure that the exhaust system is closed

[gangstar]

o ok then
it's not compulsory though is it?

[Zoo Tv]

Gee, let me think????? Want to damage an engine? (excuse sarcasm....)

[gangstar]

ok i get it, ill wait till the gasket arrives...

[leoboy254]

help me plz, cmon guys. what's wrong with my car

also i was wondering, if i wanted fast acceleration but good top speed what should be the clutch and spur setup. i'm going to be changing this when i get my .18cvrx plus a tuned pipe

[MT2 owns you]

leoboy i dunno what the problem is but id suggest checking your rear diff to see if its stripped or something is missing and then check the setscrew on the D-cup outdrive (the one the brake disk is on) to see if its gone. now i assume you have a 2 speed so for good top speed and good acceleration, first gear should be..lemme think...ok..low pinion and high spur gear (i havent messed around with touring cars much yet so i dunno whats low and whats high) and for secong gear you should have a larger pinion and lower spur...im guessing about...hmm..16/49 first gear and 20/44 for second? :confused: i have no idea.

[leoboy254]

i was thinking 17/47or 49 and 23/39or 37, with the 1.6 hp the .18 generates it should be fairly easy to get up to a fast top speed

[Silent Night]

na.. I would stick with the same color gears.. like red and red and gold on gold.. the spurs would have to be 4 teeth apart in difference... I would probaly get 19/22 pinoin and 39/43 spur...

[josh222]

highest gears you can get are 19/43 23/39

[leoboy254]

that setup is like full top speed. i want first gear to be fast acceleration and 2nd to be top speed. so i think 17/47 and 23/39 is a good setup. i dont think the spurs have to be 4 gears diiference. also, i fixed my rear drivetrain problem and i fixed my braked from being a kill switch to being a brake. im going to try the car out tomorrow

[MT2 owns you]

nah, the spurs have to be the same number of teeth apart from each other that the pinion gears are. like if i had 10/15 clutch bell i would need 55/50 spur. or 52/47, etc.

[leoboy254]

nah, the spurs have to be the same number of teeth apart from each other that the pinion gears are. like if i had 10/15 clutch bell i would need 55/50 spur. or 52/47, etc.
okay i fixed the setup:

[leoboy254]

i don't know what kind of pipe i should get. any ideas. these pipes have to fit fairly easy i dont want to do any modification to the car.
i also fixed the shifting problem hopefully by making it shift earlier

[MT2 owns you]

ths pipes are good. right? and rd logics too...

[josh222]

THS and RD Logics are very good stuff

[Jetskiboy77]

I own both of them and they both are very good.

[leoboy254]

whats the difference between these two rd logics pipes for the rs4 3. also, whats the difference between 2 and 3 chamber pipe

[MT2 owns you]

well, ones a turbo pipe the otheres not, i imagine its tuned diferently or something, or has a diferent number of chambers.

[leoboy254]

when i start the engine, it idle perfectly , but when i give it gas the car moves slowly and the engine revs up and dies.

[josh222]

you said it is rich so try leaning it just a little bit..

Turbo pipes make more power than regular pipes

[leoboy254]

fixed by puting all setting to factory

so is the extra $15 worth the power

[josh222]

yes, basicly

[leoboy254]

if i get the .18 cvrx should i get stiffer springs in the rear and front sice the engine is heavier

[Jetskiboy77]

When I turn my car over gas leaks from the top of the gas tank where you open it to refuel. Is this an air leak that is affecting my engine? If so should I just buy a new gas tank or what?

[Zoo Tv]

I have a quickie too, is fuel coming out of the pipe mean it is too rich?

[josh222]

Jetskiboy, yes you need a new tank, the one that came with the my leaked after a while and i bought a new one and it had a better seal in the top, my old one was black new ones are white.

There shoul;d be a bit of oil coming out during normal running

[Silent Night]

if i get the .18 cvrx should i get stiffer springs in the rear and front sice the engine is heavier

I don't think that you will need stiffer ones... .18's are almost the same weight as .12's since they use the same case... It might be a few grams heavier at most. The only think I can think of is it having more tourqe and your rear end bottoming out on acceleration...Doesn't happen with me though...

[leoboy254]

.12r ss is 200g and .18cvrx is 295.5g, 100g more is not a few grams
i think what makes it heavier is the huge head

[leoboy254]

the cvr is 237.5g. it's probaly the pull start that makes is heavy. will the hpi 12/15 roto start backplate work on this engine. looks like it will

[Silent Night]

Oh yeah I forgot about the head weight... All I was thinking about was the crankshaft case...

[Jetskiboy77]

Got some new pics today after I got the car to run perfect:

[Jetskiboy77]

Another Angle:

[Jetskiboy77]

One with the body, thats my silver RSX and my friends 4 Tec.

[Jetskiboy77]

Last one, what do you guys think?

[josh222]

looks nice

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks Josh

[josh222]

I love the XS engine they look good in our cars :p

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah me too! :D I love that engine and that RSX body so much.

[Zoo Tv]

YOur not wrong! Great, classic and simple body - not over painted or stickered. Nice.

[KronicRacer]

whats the difference between these two rd logics pipes for the rs4 3. also, whats the difference between 2 and 3 chamber pipe

3 chambers means that the muffler is divided into 3 chambers is extra quieter and and the airflow is more restricited (should be reserved for bigger motors that pump out more air .21+). theoretically it means more torque on certian setups but less hp on high rpm ranges. the 2 chamber is the best be to get not too much restriction on a .12 just enough. single chamber means there are no restrictions is all out sound and these mufflers are best for high speed races, oval or topspeed runs. can be used on any engine but certian care has to be taken so that its not too much or too little. if either is the case it can be counter productive to engine power

[josh222]

i run a dual chamber pipe and it is fine but like kronic said most 3 chamber pipe are just to much pipe for small block engines

[Silent Night]

Yeah and the more chambers the smoother the powerband...

[gangstar]

that's a really nice car jetski!

hey, i was wondering, i need new screws, the 3mm ones that go through the engine and then hold the engine header. I want to buy longer ones than the ones that are already in there, so that i can attach a nut at the other end to hold the header in place better. I can't find any long 3mm screw anywhere! i need them to be about 50mm long. I've found 3.5mm screws but no 3mm screws!

does anybody know a part number for these types of screws? i cudn't find any in my local B&Q (i don't kno if this shop is in the US, it's a diy shop), and i can't find any in the Model Shop.

thanks
gangstar

[josh222]

just use some blue lock tight on the screws.. that works fine

[KronicRacer]

starting write up for part 3.

[gangstar]

but iv lost one of the screws, it flew off while i was playing with the car. :(

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks for the compliment Gangstar.

As for the screws you might be able to use the screws that some with this manifold extension, kinda pricy but its 3x50 like you wanted.

3x50 Screws (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD638&P=V)

[Jetskiboy77]

Scratch that, I kept looking and found the same size screws by themselves for much cheaper.

Here you go--3x50 Screws (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCP96&P=V)

Check them out though because with all that smooth shaft im not sure if the threads will be showing when the screw is through, it might still be the smooth part and then you cant really tighten it down good enough. I hope that makes sense.

[rs4lola]

starting write up for part 3.Hurry up!! :)
I got some inspiration from you setup and decide to install the rear pivot ball suspension from a Ver 2 NTC3. Dremel works wonders and it fits really good. Hopefully this weekend I will try it out to see how well( or not!) it handles. Rear end is a little stronger and I can adjust the rear to beyon the fixed 2 degrees from HPI...

[josh222]

how does the NTC3 parts fit? i would be much easier for me to get AE stuff

[gangstar]

hmmm, this isnt available in the UK. iv tried some shops and online UK stores, but none of them stock it. If i were to order from Towerhobbies to the UK, it'll cost me a LOT more... i might have to do it though, if it's the only way.

[KronicRacer]

Hurry up!! :)
I got some inspiration from you setup and decide to install the rear pivot ball suspension from a Ver 2 NTC3. Dremel works wonders and it fits really good. Hopefully this weekend I will try it out to see how well( or not!) it handles. Rear end is a little stronger and I can adjust the rear to beyon the fixed 2 degrees from HPI...


awsome! you dremmeled the arms i take it. :D thats what i avioded since its a critical part, but hey whatever works right :D i need to order the v2 from tower hobbies eventually. and test that with my setup. also hows the rear width? too wide too narrow?? is it within 200mm? or how did you get that to work.?? i know that the ntc3 arms are not that wide since the chassis is wide :confused:

[ron1431]

I was wondering where i can find the optional body post that mounts on to the cf rear shock tower

[rs4lola]

awsome! you dremmeled the arms i take it. :D thats what i avioded since its a critical part, but hey whatever works right :D i need to order the v2 from tower hobbies eventually. and test that with my setup. also hows the rear width? too wide too narrow?? is it within 200mm? or how did you get that to work.?? i know that the ntc3 arms are not that wide since the chassis is wide :confused:Currently I am using the axles from the rs4-3 and they fit no problem. Well thats a lie...in order to use the rs4-3 rear axles (hint: metric bearings). I had to dremel the inner and outer bearing holders in the hub carriers and JB Weld the bearings to the case. A bit drastic but has to do it as the bearings take the full load of the suspension and should not move at all. Thw width is within 200mm as it is adjustable. In fact I am still running 1/8 serpent foams all around and the wheels stick out about 3-5mm from the body in the rear. I will take it sunday for a full shakedown. Looks like I will need to buy the Integy setup Station ASAP as I need to measure/adjust rear toe angle...

[T-Maxx2.5]

I need to know where to find parts for the RS4 3 and not the evo either. I have the older one and lloking for some hop-ups for it. Any links to parts you guys can help me with would be awsome.

[gangstar]

www.towerhobbies.com

[T-Maxx2.5]

www.towerhobbies.com

I go to tower all the time that where i get the stuff for my Maxx. When I search for the RS4 it mostly pulls stuff for the MT, Pro 3, or the Micro. What stuff is inter changable? This is driving me crazy. . . .

Take this for example I'm looking for turnbuckles that i can adjust the camber etc. So I find these but I'm not sure if they will work.
Turnbuckles (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000393206&I=LXBNR8&P=K)

Maybe I'm just making finding parts harder than it needs to be.

Thanks

[slowmt]

So what engine is better the hpi 18ss or the os .18cv-rx? I have teh 18ss rs4 3 car and the .18os just chillin at my house.

[richkay228]

Currently I am using the axles from the rs4-3 and they fit no problem. Well thats a lie...in order to use the rs4-3 rear axles (hint: metric bearings). I had to dremel the inner and outer bearing holders in the hub carriers and JB Weld the bearings to the case. A bit drastic but has to do it as the bearings take the full load of the suspension and should not move at all. Thw width is within 200mm as it is adjustable. In fact I am still running 1/8 serpent foams all around and the wheels stick out about 3-5mm from the body in the rear. I will take it sunday for a full shakedown. Looks like I will need to buy the Integy setup Station ASAP as I need to measure/adjust rear toe angle...

After reading your posts on modding the rear end, it just seems to me like you are trying to "polish a terd". Why are you going through so much aggravation to sharpen the handeling of a parking lot basher chassis? The RS43's are awesome for what they were engineered for fun bashing, not a race track. All you see at the races is mostly NTC3's period. I have never seen a competitive RS43 on the track. Sorry, not trying to bash your efforts. I just see no reason. If your advanced driving skills allow you to actually feel a lack of handeling, you deserve a Serpent, or an NTC3.
Rich

[josh222]

my SS beats all my friends in the handling department.. even a NTC3 in our local lot.

By the end of the summer mine RS4 3 will be sick. The Trinity G4 stuff fits with less effort and also the whole part where people go rs4 3 on a track and it cleans up like at my local track where i soon plan on racing

[josh222]

Also NTC3's aren't the best cars either, there good but a bit over rated..Things like the R40 G4 Serpent Impulse are pure races cars

[rs4lola]

After reading your posts on modding the rear end, it just seems to me like you are trying to "polish a terd". Why are you going through so much aggravation to sharpen the handeling of a parking lot basher chassis? The RS43's are awesome for what they were engineered for fun bashing, not a race track. All you see at the races is mostly NTC3's period. I have never seen a competitive RS43 on the track. Sorry, not trying to bash your efforts. I just see no reason. If your advanced driving skills allow you to actually feel a lack of handeling, you deserve a Serpent, or an NTC3.
Rich
If I just wanted to race the best rc car out there, I would go buy a kit and race it. No aggravation there...But I like modding rc cars to make them drive better. Its just the challenge of creating something better myself, instead of just buying a fantastic kit for racing. Waste of money to you??? Perhaps but way cheaper than racing/modifying a real race car. By the way I have 2 other rc cars: a serpent 950 and kyosho v-one rr. No modding needed for either one of them but I like working on the rs4-3 way more for the challenge...

[KronicRacer]

i agree with lola same here on the tweaking the rs4-3.

my rc garage holds 1 r40 2 ntc3 a 2 g4 an elec m18 and a stage d nitro 3 and a standard nitro 3 (all modded out though) :D

and whats wrong with taking somethingover the edge? richkay228 what mods have you done that would merrit comentary. heck even ideas that would make the car better at parkinglot bashing......... bottom line to each his own and if you dont like what were doing with our polished terds dont say anything. dont player hate innovate i say...

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone run these Diff Gears (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJYM3&P=7) in their car? Im really thinking about ordering them.

[Silent Night]

Yeah I'm running them... They increase the top speed a bit and take take alot more of a pounding... I think a couple pages back I have some pics of it... Looks very unique...

Found it

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1735328&highlight=gears#post1735328

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah I'm running them... They increase the top speed a bit and take take alot more of a pounding... I think a couple pages back I have some pics of it... Looks very unique...

Found it

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1735328&highlight=gears#post1735328


Thanks a lot Silent, they do look very durable. A couple of questions though; Did you acceleration suffer from installing them and was there any noticable increase in top speed? Im mainly interested in these for the durability which they seem to have, but am still wondering about the speed and take off changes.

[trw]

i got those for my RS4 3 for that extra "lil bit o' speed"

i also lowered my ratio considerably, I cant tell u if they did raise top speed, cause of the new tranny ratios, however my OS 18 CVRX lost nearly not one bit of acceleration from it, so i wouldnt imagine hardly any on your engine.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks for the info guys.

[Silent Night]

Yeah same here.. As soon as I put them in my TZ was in too so I never got to test them along... I can still break loose all 4 tires at will :D

[trw]

well, i was bored so i took some shots of my car, and i saw most people have posted theirs, sooooo, you can only guess what i thought of doing next :)

http://www.rogue4x4.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1243.0;id=2313;ima ge
http://www.rogue4x4.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1243.0;id=2314;ima ge
http://www.rogue4x4.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1243.0;id=2315;ima ge
http://www.rogue4x4.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1243.0;id=2316;ima ge
http://www.rogue4x4.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1243.0;id=2317;ima ge

[slowmt]

So what foam tires do yall use? what offset and shore?

[josh222]

I run 40S at the moment with no offset next i get will be 30MM and 30S out back and 26-28mm 30S up front no offset

[Jetskiboy77]

I love the M3 body TRW. Its probable my favorite car of all time. Nice pics.


Im using 40 Shore for the front and rear. 0 offset all around and 26mm front and 30mm back. I am going to go to a much lower shore rating when I get new ones though.

[richkay228]

i agree with lola same here on the tweaking the rs4-3.

my rc garage holds 1 r40 2 ntc3 a 2 g4 an elec m18 and a stage d nitro 3 and a standard nitro 3 (all modded out though) :D

and whats wrong with taking somethingover the edge? richkay228 what mods have you done that would merrit comentary. heck even ideas that would make the car better at parkinglot bashing......... bottom line to each his own and if you dont like what were doing with our polished terds dont say anything. dont player hate innovate i say...

Here is my RS43 SS. There is nothing wrong with taking something to the edge as shown by my obviously heavily modded RS43. This is efforts well spent on an RS43 basher IMO. My SS handled like a terd stock, and handles even worse now. So like I said, as far as handeling why polish a terd. Sorry just my 2 cents. My RS43 SS pics are at the top of this thread:


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2488281/anchors_2491840/mpage_1/key_Polar%255FBus/anchor/tm.htm#2491840

[josh222]

it loosk nice but it has a .28 in it with rubber tires.. ofcorse it isn't going to handle really good

[Jetskiboy77]

For a heavily modded car it doesnt look like you did too much to help the suspension. And Josh is exactly right, those tires and that engine are not a good combo for handling of that above a "terd" level, especially since that engine puts way too much weight to that one side of the car.

[rs4lola]

Here is my RS43 SS. There is nothing wrong with taking something to the edge as shown by my obviously heavily modded RS43. This is efforts well spent on an RS43 basher IMO. My SS handled like a terd stock, and handles even worse now. So like I said, as far as handeling why polish a terd. Sorry just my 2 cents. My RS43 SS pics are at the top of this thread:


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2488281/anchors_2491840/mpage_1/key_Polar%255FBus/anchor/tm.htm#2491840
Everyone has an opinion...
The big reason I changed the rs4-3 rear suspension to pivot ball was to get the rear end to stick while cornering hard. The rs4-3 has a fixed 2 degrees of toe-in at the rear. Once I installed the NTC3 pivot ball rear suspension, I adjusted the rear toe-in to 3 degrees. Back end sticks much Much better!!! In fact with the solid front axle, the car runs much quicker around the parking lot track that we run. This car is only for running short to medium size parking lot tracks. Definitely with a racing engine, centax clutch, solid front axle and the pivot ball rear suspension, this car is very competative. Hope to have pictures sometime next week. Yes, spent way too much already on this 'terd' mobile...

[Zoo Tv]

what does "40 shore" mean for foam tyres?

[richkay228]

For a heavily modded car it doesnt look like you did too much to help the suspension. And Josh is exactly right, those tires and that engine are not a good combo for handling of that above a "terd" level, especially since that engine puts way too much weight to that one side of the car.

Those tires pictured are strictly for "bling" I use Jayco 35 shore nitro shoes 30mm in the back, and 28 in the front. Yes I did not waste any of my time with the suspension, as there is no amount suspension mods that will allow you to agressively corner a big-block RS43. This car was built strictly for a sick 1/10 parking lot drag car with a serious WOW factor.

[richkay228]

Everyone has an opinion...
The big reason I changed the rs4-3 rear suspension to pivot ball was to get the rear end to stick while cornering hard. The rs4-3 has a fixed 2 degrees of toe-in at the rear. Once I installed the NTC3 pivot ball rear suspension, I adjusted the rear toe-in to 3 degrees. Back end sticks much Much better!!! In fact with the solid front axle, the car runs much quicker around the parking lot track that we run. This car is only for running short to medium size parking lot tracks. Definitely with a racing engine, centax clutch, solid front axle and the pivot ball rear suspension, this car is very competative. Hope to have pictures sometime next week. Yes, spent way too much already on this 'terd' mobile...

Well, if you have gotten your RS43 to handle competively on the track you definately deserve a pat on the back. Good job. Post up a pic link, as I am curious exactly what you did.

[josh222]

Shore is the system measuring the softness of the foam tire. The lower the Shore # the softer the tire but the shorter the tire will last

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone know where I can find the rules for ROAR, as I am curious to if my car is legal.

[Silent Night]

http://www.roarracing.com/rules/index.htm

At the bottom of the page has 2 pdf's that you can check out.. I think to make your car legal, all you need is the right body, engine, and muffler... Maybe tires too..

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks so much Silent.

[CrankrodsKid]

What exhaust do you guys with O.S .18's run on your rs4's? I am thinking of the ths pipe, but it was designed for a .15.. what pipe should i buy?

[Silent Night]

I don't really think that there are any pipes out that are specifically designed for the .18... Any pipe should work, but outlaws would most likely be the best because they have larger stingers..

[MT2 owns you]

well i have a ths pipe but itll probably work on .12, .15 and .18 engines if you ask me..but i dunno for a fact. anyway thats what i have on mine but i havnt run it yet

[Jetskiboy77]

Those tires pictured are strictly for "bling" I use Jayco 35 shore nitro shoes 30mm in the back, and 28 in the front. Yes I did not waste any of my time with the suspension, as there is no amount suspension mods that will allow you to agressively corner a big-block RS43. This car was built strictly for a sick 1/10 parking lot drag car with a serious WOW factor.

So how are you going to call the car a "terd" at handling when you even admit that your car isnt going to handle well because you have an engine that is not designed for that chassis and didn't try to help the suspension? To me, that makes no sense at all. My rs4 3 handles amazingly and im sure a lot of other peoples do also.

[supertoast]

Hello from the UK!

carbon. I like carbon. Must buy carbon fibre parts soon.

I want to buy carbon parts for my RS4 3, and I'm wanting to buy all HPI parts if I can (including threaded shocks soon). But I notice a lot of other manufacturers making carbon parts too. Is there any advantage to buying any of these (apart from cost) or would I be as well buying HPI parts, to keep it all 'proper'. I do like the fact that HPI has good support and very good installation manuals/instructions.

Thanks,

Chris UK
'Supertoast'

[gangstar]

what dus that carbon fibre layer thing do? the thing that is like another chassis, but it goes on top of the car stuff. does anybody understnd wat im tlkin about?
if so, what does that thing do?

gangstar

[josh222]

the Graphite upper deck replaces the radio tray with one part.. it stiffings the chassi of the car and makes the handling better because of there is less flex

[MT2 owns you]

woudlnt an aluminum or titanium upper deck do the same thing? i dont doubt they would but im getting a titanium upper deck from f4i racing soon and want to make sure itll do the same thing, minus not break in a crash

[Jetskiboy77]

They will do the same thing, just in a touring car I went with the graphite because its so light. I know the titanium one is very light too, so you can check that one out too. I would stay away from the aluminum one in a tourer cause its not the best material to use IMO. :)

[richkay228]

So how are you going to call the car a "terd" at handling when you even admit that your car isnt going to handle well because you have an engine that is not designed for that chassis and didn't try to help the suspension? To me, that makes no sense at all. My rs4 3 handles amazingly and im sure a lot of other peoples do also.

I wish I could understand exactly what your point is here. The fact that your RS43 handles "amazingly well" is strictly self opinion. I guarantee if you clicked off 5 laps at the track with your RS43, then piloted an NTC3 you would be smoother, and faster. Go to the local races, most everyone races NTC3's, and guys with money like the Serpents. There is a good reason RS43's are not widely raced. You figure it out. I have driven many times an NTC3, and there is a big difference, they feel tight, precise, and they simply "stick" to the track.

[gangstar]

ok, thanks.

i have a problem, again. I got a fuel filter, and placed it between two fuel tubes, going to the engine. There are lots of bubbles in the tubes, and iv done evrything i can to get rid of it. Wen ther arent any bubbles in it, bubbles just appear in it. The Engine is hard to start, and hardly ever carries on going for more than 10seconds. Adjusting the rev thing dusnt make a difference, so im sure it has something to do the with the fuel line. When i push the button on the fuel tank, i see the bubbles in the pipes move up the pipe, then come back down a little. Why does this happen? and hw do i get my car to work again?

also, does the fuel filter have to be in a specific position? like, which way do you have to put it?

thanks
gangstar

[trw]

your fuel filter is on backwards, I had that identical problem when i first got one and nearly threw out a perfectly good engine cause of it.

[gangstar]

great! thanks trw, it worked! thanks! iv been stressing over this for a couple of days now, i thort that replacing the fuel tube wud work but it didnt, and so i was going to scrap the engine altogether as well!

thanks!!!

does anybody know how to make the exhaust stay on tighter on the header? mine pops off even against fairly small bumps. I have 2 zip-ties that are on pretty tight, but it still manages to pop off somehow! lol.

thanks again trw.

gangstar

[gangstar]

also, how do u fit an engine that is larger than .18 into the rs4-3? it wudnt fit wud it?

[MT2 owns you]

yea itd fit, you just need a conversion kit, but it would be kinda tight. at least i think it would fit anyhow. just curious, why did you want to know that? if you want a more powerful, BIG block sized engine (i call .t .21 and up but aparently its .18 and up) just get a TZ

[gangstar]

what's a tz?

and i was asking about the big block engines because i saw sum1 with it in their car (i tihnk it was kronicracer, im not sure) and they dont cost that much more than a .18. I was wondering if i shud jst go str8 to a big block engine, since im thinking of spending about £150 on a .18, spending about £170-190 on a bigger better engine wudnt b too much difference. But then if i need a conversion kit, that wud add more cost, then id probably need to change gears so that they dont get stripped (i think) and other little things like that which wud raise the costs a lot i guess.

[MT2 owns you]

yea...is the 150 euros (thats european money right?) on the OS cvrx? thats a good engine and i think you will be plently satisfied with that. if you want more power get an OS .18 tz. http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=180927 <thats a TZ

[Jetskiboy77]

I wish I could understand exactly what your point is here. The fact that your RS43 handles "amazingly well" is strictly self opinion. I guarantee if you clicked off 5 laps at the track with your RS43, then piloted an NTC3 you would be smoother, and faster. Go to the local races, most everyone races NTC3's, and guys with money like the Serpents. There is a good reason RS43's are not widely raced. You figure it out. I have driven many times an NTC3, and there is a big difference, they feel tight, precise, and they simply "stick" to the track.

The point is that you're saying your car handles bad, you didnt do anything at all to try and fix that problem. Also, you keep mentioning the NTC3, which I have never seen anyone use where I go to race around. The reason people dont race the RS4 3 is because its not race ready out of the box. If you wanted to spend the money to make it race worthy, it can certainly be done. Some of us like that, and arent into buying a kit to race right away. And I would bet that a good reason why the NTC3 drives so much better is that its set up better than your RS4 3 and also it doesnt have a big block in it to horribly mess up its side to side weight.

[gangstar]

yeah, most european countries use euros, but in the UK we use GBP (Great Britain Pounds).

they dont sell any O.S. engines in the UK for some reason, well, i havnt found any anyway. That's wat i wanted, bcoz i had herd from sveral ppl that it was gud, but i cant find it anywher!

thanks
gangstar

[josh222]

Thats funny my Type SS will go much faster in the turns than my friends NTC3, much faster than any of the people we bash with and i am only get started with the mods..
up next is G4 parts


The OS TZ makes 2.3HP asnd rev to 40K, you should be able to buy it in the UK or get it from Tower Hobbies, shipping won't be to much

[M3EVOlution]

Quick Question:

I was running my evo pretty hard today and noticed that the enngine became a lot louder. Then i refilled the tank and found out that the outer piece of the muffler cracked off, making it louder. I really like the noise and it seems like the car was moving a bit faster. My question is What if you run the car like this? Is it bad or is it acceptable?

[oachalon]

alright i have a quick question for you guys. I have a fantom fr18 and a traxxas 2.5r laying around and i would like to put either of these engines in this car. The question is what parts do i need to do this. I know these engines dont fit correctly with the stock motor mount. Also what flywheel would i need and do i need a header for rear exhaust. Right now my car is a stock rs4 3 ss. I probably need those but i dont know exactly which ones that will work.

[trw]

M3Evo - the extra outlet would probably drop the backpressure to the tank making the engine lean out a bit, if you're going to run it like that, then richen the engine up a bit.

thats probably why it felt a bit faster is because it leaned out.

oachalon - I would go with the fantom fr18, I honestly havent heard anything on this engine, but I have heard negative comments on the 2.5r.

you'll need this manifold : http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000431073&I=LXFAZ9&P=K

and I think the stock flywheel will fit, if it uses a threaded crank and collet it should slip on fine.

[T-Maxx2.5]

what would i need to put an O.S. .18 TZ(S) Turbo w/Rotary Carb in my RS4 RTR 3? and to put in the 2 speed?

[gangstar]

Quick Question:

I was running my evo pretty hard today and noticed that the enngine became a lot louder. Then i refilled the tank and found out that the outer piece of the muffler cracked off, making it louder. I really like the noise and it seems like the car was moving a bit faster. My question is What if you run the car like this? Is it bad or is it acceptable?

thats dangerous though isnt it? dirt cud get into the engine and damage it

[josh222]

the Engine needs back pressure to run good, do you know kind of temps it is running now? if you want loud get a Cvec, any pipe will do better than the crapy plastic one

[Jetskiboy77]

thats dangerous though isnt it? dirt cud get into the engine and damage it

I dont think you have to worry about anything getting in there and getting into the engine some how. I would trash that plastic pipe and go for a real tuned pipe like Josh said.

[M3EVOlution]

ANOTHER QUICK QUESTION:

I was bashing around in my alley and my rear left wheel hit a garbage can and flew right off the chassis. Baically. the suspension arm fell out with the screw still through it? How did this happen? I checked for and cracks on the part that hold it and I saw nothing. No cracks at all!

I then put the suspension arm back together with the dog bones etc.... Everything's okay. But how did it fall off?

[M3EVOlution]

http://img190.echo.cx/my.php?image=dsc000256kc.jpg

[MT2 owns you]

my guess is that the screw came out anought that one of the arm atatchy things could come out, and then it just slid out, screw and all

[M3EVOlution]

But the screw was still all the way through the rear suspension arm that fell off. There was no sign that the screw came out.

[Silent Night]

The lower pin brace thing might have cracked.. Thats what happened to me.. I didn't know till I saw a tiny crack running across the whole thing...

[M3EVOlution]

Maybe that's it. I'll check tomorrow. BTW, where and how much is it? Thanks

[MT2 owns you]

perhaps the screw was pushed back in? check the threads on the arms/mounts if you havent already. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSZ8&P=7 <linky to the a arm mounts if ya need em.

[josh222]

yes i think the lower rear bulkhead gave out, the crack might be hard to see but it is probaly there.

[M3EVOlution]

Do I need to change it out now? Because I ran the car and it was running perfect.

Another question:
Every since I bought my car with the bmw m3 body, it was always lower in the rear left side of the car. The body mounts seem to be leveled with eachother. So I thought it was just the body and I bought another bmw m3 body and its still the same. (The rear left wheel gap is smaller than the rear right wheel gap!) This was a problem ever since the car was new. Do you think it's the body?(wasn't made straight?)

Also, where can I get the best chassis for my rs4 3 evo for a great price? I just bumped into a post and the front of the chassis just curled up. The straightened temporarily until i get a new chassis? What is the super chassis? Thanks

[M3EVOlution]

Also will these screw fit for the part under the chassis? I'm getting a new chassis soon and need to replace a screw that holds the steering post(right below the shock tower.) Anyway, are thse screws used for the chassis? ie. Screwing parts to chassis like engine, bulkheads, etc....

[Jetskiboy77]

Do I need to change it out now? Because I ran the car and it was running perfect.

Another question:
Every since I bought my car with the bmw m3 body, it was always lower in the rear left side of the car. The body mounts seem to be leveled with eachother. So I thought it was just the body and I bought another bmw m3 body and its still the same. (The rear left wheel gap is smaller than the rear right wheel gap!) This was a problem ever since the car was new. Do you think it's the body?(wasn't made straight?)

Also, where can I get the best chassis for my rs4 3 evo for a great price? I just bumped into a post and the front of the chassis just curled up. The straightened temporarily until i get a new chassis? What is the super chassis? Thanks

Check out RCboys.com for the HB chassis. Its on clearance so hurry up and snatch it up, especially since its only 20$. Thats much better than a great price, its an amazing price.

[M3EVOlution]

Does the chassis come with screws?

[M3EVOlution]

Also, how good is the HB carbon upper deck

[josh222]

yes the hb chassi comes with screws and i am buying that chassi friday as for the upper deck it is fine

[M3EVOlution]

Any coupon codes out there?

[Jetskiboy77]

I dont know if the chassis comes with the screws, but Josh said it does so ill believe him. I love the HB upperdeck and its one of my favorite parts on my car. I dont think he has any coupon codes, but it doesnt really matter because his prices are quite cheap with out and codes.

[josh222]

rcboyz doesn't uses coupon as far as i know but at 20USD it is already dirt cheap, you can't even get a stock hpi chassi for that price

[MT2 owns you]

whats the difference betweem the HB (hot bodies?) and HPI woven grahpite/carbon/whatever upper deck?

[MT2 owns you]

oh, whats the deal with hot bodies? its like they are going out of business? are they? i need their universals and dunno who else makes them. as in i want hot bodies universals or the way that hot bodies makes them. nothing else. will HPI make them? doesnt HPI own hot bodies or something like that? thanks. and again, since im ordering a LOT of stuff tomorow, i needa know, does HB mean Hot Bodies? thanks!

[josh222]

yes HPI owns hot bodies,it is a ub branch

[KronicRacer]

whats the difference betweem the HB (hot bodies?) and HPI woven grahpite/carbon/whatever upper deck?

just the way they cut it out.

also(the set back on part 3 writeup)

well ive got the wolfpack and stage d combined (thanks to wolfgang @ wolfpack radicals) all ive got to do is wire the car up and its good to roll.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3001.jpg

[MT2 owns you]

hey Kronic, just curious but whered you get that spur gear mount? the purple one. thanks

oh, would anybody have a phone number for rcboys? they have an email and mailing adress and stuff but i need a phone #. eh...dad doesnt like buying off the internet...at all...so phone is THE only way...well, other than mailing but that will take FAR too long.

[Silent Night]

I think that the tranny mount is by hot bodies too... I can't find their number not even on the email's they sent me...

[KronicRacer]

hey Kronic, just curious but whered you get that spur gear mount? the purple one. thanks

oh, would anybody have a phone number for rcboys? they have an email and mailing adress and stuff but i need a phone #. eh...dad doesnt like buying off the internet...at all...so phone is THE only way...well, other than mailing but that will take FAR too long.


YEP thats hotbodies

[Kalani]

Got this posted on ebay. Check it out, RS4 3 w/ Stage D kit and RB X12 5-port turbo. See it here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5982435322&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:US:1

Thanks for looking.

[MT2 owns you]

rcboys? i sent an email litterally just a couple seconds ago (its 2:43, it was sent either 2:42 or 2:41) asking for their phone number. i hope they even have a phone. after all, my shore house doesnt have a phone so it is possible that they dont...well...if i manage to get their phone number i think that i can get the stuff...and ill have made another good haul. 2 days in a row!! man...im on a role of not spending too much. :D

[gangstar]

my car is working, but it has this problem.

the engine often stalls (as in, it stops) when i dont accelerate, which it shudnt should it? because this happens so much, i have to keep running after it and then restarting it again all the time.

is ther any way to make the stalling less frequent?

also, when i turn the back wheels, the front wheels dont turn, and when i turn the front wheels, the back wheels dont turn. there seems to be a little more resistance in the gears while turning as well. I put HPI HEavy Weight Diff Grease on it and im not sure if that's where the grease is meant to go. is that the reason for the resistance?

thanks
gangstar

[josh222]

you have to get the oil to spread out and it takes a few runs to do it, your idle might be to low and it stalls

[MT2 owns you]

when my first engine started to go that would happen to me, i couldnt brake because it would stall and a couldnt stop moving cuz it would stall. as for your wheels turning problem, my guess is that either a set screw fell out, your diffs are stripped or something, or you have a dogbone missing (hah, hard to notice that one, so i guess youd know if it was a missing dogbone...)

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone know of a place that still sells the graphite bumper mount?

[Turbo B]

quick question.. its tyme for a new gas tank but my lbh only has the rs4 3 tank or should i wait till next week for the ss tank without the primer

[Silent Night]

I would save the trouble and get the racing tank so there would be less chances of leaks...I have the original tank but for me, the primer is more trouble than its worth (not because of leaks though..)

[MT2 owns you]

Does anyone know of a place that still sells the graphite bumper mount?
is this what you are talking about? http://powerlineracing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=14

[Turbo B]

yea i guess ill wait till next week cause my gas tank no longer gives fuel to the motor so ill have to put fuel in the cab and it will cut off as soon as it uses all the fuel in the cab.. but i dont see a leak in the gas tank.. it jus wont let fuel in the motor.. so what do u guys think

[Silent Night]

Oh!, I just got an idea for a test for your gas tank.. First get a bucket of water, then close of one end of the fuel line so its air tight.. Then put the tank in the water and blow into of the ends... If bubbles come out from places like the cap or primer then you have a leak...I remember doing this with bike inner tubes..

[Devillish]

so whats the advantage of using the racer tank over the stock one in the EVO? and what exactly is the racer tank? is it out of the R40 or somthing? Also are the center universals worth getting? And has anyone tried the THS Racing Tuned Pipe Set? Iam looking for a good tuned pipe.

[MT2 owns you]

the racer tank is the same as the one you have with the primer except the racer tank has no primer. also, the fuel line (not pressure line) is on top of the fuel tank instead of on the bottom where the gears are (in other words, you line wont get ripped). i dont know if the center universals are worth getting but i am getting them anyway. i guess i will find out. i have the ths tuned pipe. it seems like its good but i cant tell for sure because i got a new engine with the pipe so i have nothing to compare it to. sorry.

[Jetskiboy77]

That might be it, but im not sure since there is no pic. Also, I dont know if I want to pay that much for it.

[MT2 owns you]

(i was looking on HPI's site and noticed..they call them "nitro 3 18ss, etc." now! :eek: ) anyway, heres a pic of what you a re looking for, im pretty sure http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/6272a.jpg (thats the HPI one) and heres where you can get it: https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=HPI6272
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUT52&P=7

i know you like rcboys so i checked there too but they don't have it.

the part # is 6272

hope this helps

[josh222]

thats not made for the Rs4 3 but if you where to cut the old top part from the plastic posts and put them on the bemper plate by using screws it should work

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah I was going to say that I remember people saying that that isnt made for the RS4 3. Josh what makes it not fit exactly?

[MT2 owns you]

why doesnt it fit? i found that under "rs4 3 type ss option parts", so surely it should work right?

[Silent Night]

I think its just an overlay thing... So just for looks

[Jetskiboy77]

why doesnt it fit? i found that under "rs4 3 type ss option parts", so surely it should work right?


Thats not always necessarly correct. If you look at the option parts for the RS4 3 w/ Stiletto V12 Body (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=HPIC1031&P=Z) they say that the Rush shock tower is an option part :rolleyes: . So dont always trust that Owen.

[MT2 owns you]

Thats not always necessarly correct. If you look at the option parts for the RS4 3 w/ Stiletto V12 Body (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=HPIC1031&P=Z) they say that the Rush shock tower is an option part :rolleyes: . So dont always trust that Owen.
yea, i know i shouldnt always trust things, cuz there could always be a typo or mistake, but i found that on HPI's site, not tower, although that parts list thing on tower is cool, wouldve helped me quite a bit sometimes if i knew about it. oh well..

[slowmt]

Got a newbie question for yall. I have a jr xs3 and i love it. Could i just get a bunch of the same frequency recievers and put them in all my rc's and use one remote? Just done want to buy a bunch if i dont need to.

[josh222]

if you get a replacement RX then yes that will be fine,

The bumper plate fits but only goes over and doesn't cover all of the plastic one and i didn't like the look like that so i think you need to cut the plastic top off

[KronicRacer]

Got a newbie question for yall. I have a jr xs3 and i love it. Could i just get a bunch of the same frequency recievers and put them in all my rc's and use one remote? Just done want to buy a bunch if i dont need to.
yes thats what ive done theres 6-memoory models in the xs3(the orginal)


and on the racer tank question just look at the pics of my car on page126 thats what it looks like and the advantage is that on the stock tank a leak will and possibly happen where it basically becomes a pain in the ass.

[KronicRacer]

^^^man that was an unfinished thought if i ever saw one. :D

the stock has the problamatic primer while the racer tank has none.
and since it doesnt have one there are no leaks that come up unless you wreck it tank side. another advantage is that the fuel nipple that goes to the carb is relocated so there is no chance of fuel lines being caught up in gears or having to flip the tank.

[josh222]

i have gotten my fuel line caught in there and the whole car stopped :D

[Gustav]

When I use fome tires on my rs4 shoud the tires back be biger or wider?

[josh222]

Go with soft wider tires in the back(about 30mm wide) and soft tires in the front(about 28mm wide)

[KronicRacer]

#'s to reach rc boyz
(801) 355-7797 Phone (9:30am-4pm Mountain Standard Time)
(801) 328-2196 Fax (24 Hour Fax)

[gangstar]

my car is working, but it has this problem.

the engine often stalls (as in, it stops) when i dont accelerate, which it shudnt should it? because this happens so much, i have to keep running after it and then restarting it again all the time.

is ther any way to make the stalling less frequent?

also, when i turn the back wheels, the front wheels dont turn, and when i turn the front wheels, the back wheels dont turn. there seems to be a little more resistance in the gears while turning as well. I put HPI HEavy Weight Diff Grease on it and im not sure if that's where the grease is meant to go. is that the reason for the resistance?

thanks
gangstar

i still have both these problems. MT2 Owns You, are you sure it's because my engine's dying? iv only run about 1/3 of a gallon of fuel thru it.

the wheels still have the same problem. Ill take it apart, then put it together agen, maybe that will fix the problem, but the engine problem's the one that worries me a lot.

anybody have any ideas?

thanks
gangstar

[MT2 owns you]

no im not sure, all i know is that when my engines started to die, theywould cut out because they were too hot, and wouldnt start easily AT ALL. see it you can turn the engine over by pushing the fly wheels with your finger. thatll tell you if its dead/dying or not. also, both my previous engines had NO MORE than a gallon through them....i was still learning

[gangstar]

i can turn it clockwise, but not anticlockwise (looking from the back of the car).
is that ok?

[MT2 owns you]

yes, thats good. anti (counter) clockwise is the way it runs so if you cant turn it that way you have good compression. so your engines not dying. you prolly just needa do some tuning. if it bogs down when you put on the gas (i know it shuts off, so that might be a "super bog down" , im not very engine smart, but aparently smart enough) then you are running too rich. so...my guess is that you are runing too rich

[KronicRacer]

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/18ss_instr/I-1617-1_P03.jpg hints and ideas
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/18ss_instr/I-1617-1_P02.jpg tuning in general

btw gangstar which motor do you have?

[gangstar]

i have the original motor, the 15fe.

[josh222]

well the FE are a pian in the but to tune because they only have a hsn

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to adjust droop on this car? Thats the only thing im haveing a problem doing and figured some one here would know.

[Xmax]

Hey guys im a noob here, but not to much a noob in the R/C car world. But I just got my RS4 EVO a few weeks ago, broke it in already, and had few tanks of running it already. But my problem is that the gears in the roto starter have stripped already, im just wondering if this is a common problem among roto start owners. Do you guys feel this is a warranty issue that I should address hpi. I know that Duratrax and Ofna has something similar, better yet, I noticed that the Ofna starter system is exactly like HPI's roto starter, this is probably a manufacturing defect, most likely the use of really cheap metal for the gears. If HPI won't warranty the gears im just better of with a starter box or a pull starter, just to replace the gears, they are $30 a set. :eek: Plus i never let the engine stick in one place either when the engine was flooded or stuck at TDC. I'll be emailing HPI soon about this hopefully they will fix the problem.

[josh222]

how long are you cranking the engine? you are saposed to do fast short burst so that it doesn't get hydrolocked which will strip gears, i have seen a roto work fine with a Wasp 28, a little 15 won't kill it

[josh222]

Jetski, i already told you, grub screws

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats for ride height though not droop. Unless theres some way to do it with them anyway.

[KronicRacer]

that is droop (the screws in the arm) you can fine tune the ride height with the shock adjustments

[KronicRacer]

i have the original motor, the 15fe.

tighten the hsn all the way clock wise and then do 3 full turns counter clockwise and then you should be at factory setting. from there you can start your tuning process(leaning out).

also make sure the idle is set for a opening 1mm at neutral.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/engines/1615p1.jpg

[gangstar]

also make sure the idle is set for a opening 1mm at neutral.



errrmmm, wat dus that mean? sorry, but im a total noob..

[HaCo]

Hi,

I have installed the universal swing shaft in front and on the rear of my car from GPM. In front there is no problem, but in the rear there is some play (1mm?), how can I solve this?

Thanks,
HaCo

[MT2 owns you]

gangster- take off the air filter and you have the carb. set it so that it does not go past 1mm of a gap (to let air in). just turn the screw below the airfilter holder thingy, it think it has a spring on it but im not sure.

[Xmax]

how long are you cranking the engine? you are saposed to do fast short burst so that it doesn't get hydrolocked which will strip gears, i have seen a roto work fine with a Wasp 28, a little 15 won't kill it

I don't let the engine hydrolock, and I crank the engine less than 5 seconds.

[KronicRacer]

Hi,

I have installed the universal swing shaft in front and on the rear of my car from GPM. In front there is no problem, but in the rear there is some play (1mm?), how can I solve this?

Thanks,
HaCo

shims, were there any supplied with the rear swing shafts? if not some will have to be found to fit the gpm shafts

[KronicRacer]

gangster- take off the air filter and you have the carb. set it so that it does not go past 1mm of a gap (to let air in). just turn the screw below the airfilter holder thingy, it think it has a spring on it but im not sure.

yea there is a spring on idle set screw

[HaCo]

shims, were there any supplied with the rear swing shafts? if not some will have to be found to fit the gpm shafts
Yes, there were and I fitted them, but still there is some play. Is it normal?

[Jetskiboy77]

that is droop (the screws in the arm) you can fine tune the ride height with the shock adjustments


I think im missing something thats extemely simple. I see how the screws can be used to adjust ride height but not droop.

[slowmt]

got a question for yall. I bought this rechargable pack
http://www.eaglemodel.com/en-net/en...ICKUP2/1064.GIF
Now i dont want to have to disconnect it everytime i recharge it. could i just solder another connector onto that one so that i have a "Y" connector, one for the reciever and one for the charger?

[KronicRacer]

I think im missing something thats extemely simple. I see how the screws can be used to adjust ride height but not droop.


what are you tryin to adjust with the droop?(trying to figure out a simple way of explaining it to you.)

[KronicRacer]

Yes, there were and I fitted them, but still there is some play. Is it normal?

you may need some more shims.

post a pic of your setup if you can.

[KronicRacer]

got a question for yall. I bought this rechargable pack
http://www.eaglemodel.com/en-net/en...ICKUP2/1064.GIF
Now i dont want to have to disconnect it everytime i recharge it. could i just solder another connector onto that one so that i have a "Y" connector, one for the reciever and one for the charger?

if youve never soddered batteries before dont do it.
as the heat from the iron can destroy the pack if done improperly.

the alternative would be to splice the wire and shrinkwrap the connection aviod the soddering if your new to it with battery packs.

[HaCo]

you may need some more shims.

post a pic of your setup if you can.

Here is my setup:
http://img79.echo.cx/img79/2090/Img1086.th.jpg (http://img79.echo.cx/my.php?image=Img1086.jpg)
And here you can see how much play I have:
http://img79.echo.cx/img79/7363/Img1087.th.jpg (http://img79.echo.cx/my.php?image=Img1087.jpg)
(The hex-adapter is max pressed to the left, while the shaft is to the right...

Where can I order shims like that?

Thanks,
HaCo

[slowmt]

if youve never soddered batteries before dont do it.
as the heat from the iron can destroy the pack if done improperly.

the alternative would be to splice the wire and shrinkwrap the connection aviod the soddering if your new to it with battery packs.
That is what i ment. splice the wire and add another connector. that would work right?

[Jetskiboy77]

what are you tryin to adjust with the droop?(trying to figure out a simple way of explaining it to you.)


Im trying to make it so that when the wheels are lifted up, only the suspension starts to move and then the tires are lifted up. Basacially, im trying to get it so that the wheels are still in contact with the ground even when the car is being raised, just like in 1:1 cars when theyre picked up on a lift/jack. Thats what I understood droop to be, correct me if im wrong.

[Wolfgang]

SLOWMT
battery charging - sure and easy way out why not replace or add
a 3 lead on -- of switch open third lead is for charging purpose.

[slowmt]

Think that i just may get that. WEll i am selling my rs4 3 18ss if anyone is interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5983189397&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

[KronicRacer]

SLOWMT
battery charging - sure and easy way out why not replace or add
a 3 lead on -- of switch open third lead is for charging purpose.

hey wolfgang did you happen to get the shaft and drivecup yet?

eddy

[KronicRacer]

That is what i ment. splice the wire and add another connector. that would work right?
yea it would but like wolf mentioned you can pick up a on anf off switch with the lead already wired up.

[KronicRacer]

Im trying to make it so that when the wheels are lifted up, only the suspension starts to move and then the tires are lifted up. Basacially, im trying to get it so that the wheels are still in contact with the ground even when the car is being raised, just like in 1:1 cars when theyre picked up on a lift/jack. Thats what I understood droop to be, correct me if im wrong.

what droop dictates is how far the chassis will have to lift before the tires come off the ground. its also referred to a upstop. but it also dictates how much travel will occur before you bottom out (ride height)

the r40 employs both upstops and down stops you can limit the suspension arm travel with these adustment. (interesting huh?)

basically depending on the car you can lower the chassis with droop, heres the catch, you lose some shock travel when you do. the good thing here is that there is less stress on the shock now since it has less to do (which is always better for reliability). thats where the shock setup comes into play and is vital. (and this is based on driver taste at this point) and this is also where you can achieve the wheel movement of the 1:1 cars. if thats what you want

no droop at all and the chassis will bounce around all day at full expansion of the shocks. the shock can very vunreble at this point depending on the track conditions tire setup and shock angle.

anyway thats the best i can come up with.. LOL

and if its still vague in anyway heres something to look at
http://www.rctek.com/handling/suspension_droop.html

[KronicRacer]

Here is my setup:
http://img79.echo.cx/img79/2090/Img1086.th.jpg (http://img79.echo.cx/my.php?image=Img1086.jpg)
And here you can see how much play I have:
http://img79.echo.cx/img79/7363/Img1087.th.jpg (http://img79.echo.cx/my.php?image=Img1087.jpg)
(The hex-adapter is max pressed to the left, while the shaft is to the right...

Where can I order shims like that?

Thanks,
HaCo


my first reaction is that tower hobbies should have them.

[Silent Night]

Does anybody know where I can get wheel spacers at? I have 30mm wide foams in the back and they are rubbing really bad on my rear exhaust header.. I have these 2-spacers that came with my corasas (sp?) and I need both of them on one side to clear the header... I just want to get it even with the other side now..

[KronicRacer]

^^^^go to a 2 deg. offset tire with 30mm in the rear. this helps with no need for spacers.

have you tried looking at tower hobbies. they tend to have everything and anything

[Silent Night]

Yeah, I was looking yesterday.. They didn't have anything but the hex hubs for t-maxx's and stuff.. Do I have to get new foams? I'm kinda broke and got these for a good deal ($8).. Maybe I can use washers?

[KronicRacer]

washers would be the next simple alternative.. well the next time you get foams try and get foams with the 2 degree offset.
on the hex adapter note ofna has hex adapters and so does hpi. basically they are the same as the stock config.

[Silent Night]

Thanks...

I have another problem now though... :( I got my 39/43 spur gears, but now my engine mounts won't let the engine get close enough to them... If I only use the left engine mount (looking from the rear), it woul d make it, but then I can't screw in my other mount because the chassis engine mount holes do go over enough.. Do you think its my chassis, or my engine mounts?

[Silent Night]

here are some pics...

http://img232.echo.cx/img232/7803/zannepic12bq.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

http://img232.echo.cx/img232/8137/zannepic20op.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

[MT2 owns you]

wow....nice quality pic...hmm....maybe wolfpack can help you out http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/rs4-3_chassi.html then you can just cut a slot in it to make it fit. or i guess you could have him maybe make you a custom chassis but i dont know if he does that. or you could get some more adjustable motor mounts, also available from wolfpack radicals. and if your willing to risk it, why not cut out what you need in your chassis and see if it works...the FE holes might get in the way though..maybe a thick washer could help with that?

OH i think i know why you stripped that spur gear now! look at your engine mount screws! they arent straight!! maybe that could have caused you spur to strip...if it was the gear further from the engine then that makes sense too cuz the closer gear would be meshed right but the farther would be a little loose.

[Silent Night]

they were striaght when i had my old spur in...

[KronicRacer]

part 3
well if you guys have been paying attention and keeping track part three is were ill show the everything.
all in all at this point the g4 arms are in place and the search for the right hub has ended. not so.....
when going to install the g4 hub carriers(which are directional i might add) they did not line up as well as i would have thought. so on i went brainstorming. and this part im feeling im gonna get questioned on. i went ahead and place the left side hub on the right on the right on the left so the order was reversed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc073.jpg
after the parts were swapped the hubs finally cleared the shock towers. now that the hubs were in place now it was time to take care of the cvd's
this is where i almost called it quits. the g4 cvds where too big at
the ends of the dog bone and the r40 cvds were too short of a reach. the problem that i faced was that that i needed 60 mm long cvds. the stock nitro 3 bones were to short. i figured if i grinded the g4 bone ends it might solve the problem the issue is that the parts would become weak and would shater. this would hold the same if i modified the diff cups if they were modified. then as i was rummaging through all my spares i found the dog bone i needed. then again it dawned on me that the stock g4 uses dog bones. so in the stock g4 axles went and on went the dog bones. but again trouble the dones were moving around way too much and falling out. i quickly stumbled on how to place the dog bones on the g4 axle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3010.jpg

****before sliding the bone into place****
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3012.jpg

with the dog bone in this way the bone is in securly and theres very limited side to side action going on. and no falling out. now that the cvd issue was squared away it was time to place the shocks in with that done the shocks were a no brainer since i didnt have to change shock oil. so with everything assembled i noticed one that there is a need for droop screws and that the ride height was way to high after finding the right drill bit i drilled in a droop screw location on the arm which after putting in the screw resolved the ride height issue. with this done it was time to attach the tierods again another issue came up that the links would bind with the shock tower so off to find a spacer and a long enough ball stud for the setup. after finding the right spacer and the ball stud i was back in business. with the suspension with smooth travel all i had to do was mount the tires and shes ready to run.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/eddy067.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc071.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/katrc069.jpg

more pics with the renforced rear
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3055.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3053.jpg

and here is the car with the wolfpack modded 2 speed and stage d package
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro3.jpg

[Silent Night]

Does the car handle any better with the stage d kit?

[KronicRacer]

they were striaght when i had my old spur in...

this is interesting indeed........ what mt is saying is that you are using the cone screws that use cone washers to be proper engine mount screws.

also try using a smaller head screw.(this is much simpler) then modding the chassis
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro32.jpg
this should be the style of screw you should try to get.

i keep looking at your chassis and i keep thinking its the way this chassis in particular is desinged which on is it btw?

[KronicRacer]

Does the car handle any better with the stage d kit?

dont know yet. ive just finished with the stage d construction.

still have to set it up and begin the dial in process.
and with the way the weathers been....... it'll be a few days before i run it.

[MT2 owns you]

this is interesting indeed........ what mt is saying is that you are using the cone screws that use cone washers to be proper engine mount screws.

also try using a smaller head screw.(this is much simpler) then modding the chassis
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro32.jpg
this should be the style of screw you should try to get.

i keep looking at your chassis and i keep thinking its the way this chassis in particular is desinged which on is it btw?
thats part of what i meant, but if you look at the close up of the bottom of his chassis, look at the screws on the left of the pic, one is right on the edge, one is farther, and the next is even farther. but yea...i think some diferent screws are a good idea.

[Silent Night]

this is interesting indeed........ what mt is saying is that you are using the cone screws that use cone washers to be proper engine mount screws.

also try using a smaller head screw.(this is much simpler) then modding the chassis
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/nitro32.jpg
this should be the style of screw you should try to get.

i keep looking at your chassis and i keep thinking its the way this chassis in particular is desinged which on is it btw?

Its some GPM one I think that I got off of ebay for like $20...

[gangstar]

i was racing today i had a few hard crashes. One on the side broke the side of my shell and broke off the tip of my exhaust, so im going to have to get a new exhaust. What exhaust pipe do you recommend? i have a very small budget, so the cheaper the better!

thanks
gangstar

[HaCo]

Does exhaust tuning give you a lot of more power, or is the difference just marginal?

[gangstar]

i havnt a clue..

[KronicRacer]

depends what your doing............ and what kind of exhaust tuning. tuning the engine to the exhaust system oor the space between the manifold and the muffler.

[gangstar]

it's the actual pipe, the last piece, the one with the little tube poking out of it which smoke comes out from. The little tube poking out broke off, so im going to have to get a new pipe.

[Jetskiboy77]

Ok a couple of questions that someone must have the answer to:

The legal weight limit for a 1/10 touring car according to roarrules.com is 1725 grams. My RS4 3 weighs exactly 4 pounds with a full tank of gas and the body on. That comes out to be about 1814 grams. Now is the minimum weight based on the car being filled with fuel or empty? If its not then im going to get these Carbon Upright Parts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVB87&P=7) to replace the aluminum ones I have to bring the weight down, but thats only if the minimum weight is if the car has a full tank of gas. Does anyone know for sure if those parts will fit on the RS4 3? If the minumum weight is based on the car dry, then im going to weigh my car with no gas to see if I still need those parts. And just out of curosity, does anyone know if the HPI .12r xs a roar legal engine? And do the bodies have to be four doors, because thats all I see by me.

[slowmt]

got a question for yall. I bought this rechargable pack
http://www.eaglemodel.com/en-net/en...ICKUP2/1064.GIF
Now i dont want to have to disconnect it everytime i recharge it. could i just solder another connector onto that one so that i have a "Y" connector, one for the reciever and one for the charger?
Now with this battery could i use a 7.2v charger with it?

[supertoast]

I got all my shizzle dizzle for my RS4 - and I am EXTREMELY happy with the performance of this little flyer now! Blown away infact!

I have some chassis pics here...

http://www.digitalturntables.co.uk/pimped/index.htm

Also, if you have the HPI graphite upper deck, check out the fantastic (if I do say so myself) 4 cell conversion! No receiver stick pack to splash out on!!

http://www.digitalturntables.co.uk/hpi/index.htm

Chris
UK

[HaCo]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your post! You're setup looks really cool, and I am happy that I can ask you this question: How do the pirelli's work? Just like the real guys ;) You're mod looks cool too, although I can't use it because I allready bought a stick pack...

[josh222]

not bad,

here is mod that helps, ohh and foams are the way to go

here is a very old pic of my car

[supertoast]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your post! You're setup looks really cool, and I am happy that I can ask you this question: How do the pirelli's work? Just like the real guys ;) You're mod looks cool too, although I can't use it because I allready bought a stick pack...

Hiya mate, one word - sticky!

They are perticularly grippy on loose road suface ie, road with gritty bits and drive well on dusty also (I've had experience with both)

LHS said that they do wear quickly, but to be honest I haven't found that to be the case, only slight wearing after much driving (probably won't be the case for heavy power sliders though) - that's IF you can get it to slide with the Pirellis on. Also noticable is the braking ability, when you pull back - you stop! Little skidding at all depending on your speed of course. One final thing - the pirellis seem to have a good size to them, a higher profile giving you that bit higher ride hight and larger appearance, and probably effect the final drive ratio too, possible slightly higher top end.

Relatively expensive tyres - very capable, probably not the best for ultra smooth compact tarmac - but then again, who has that to hand nowadays!

Chris

[supertoast]

Foams are great, IF you have the smooth tarmac to hand or you're racing on a good track - I'd shred them to bits within half an hour on my local roads nufortunately - hence the pirellis

[Jetskiboy77]

Ok a couple of questions that someone must have the answer to:

The legal weight limit for a 1/10 touring car according to roarrules.com is 1725 grams. My RS4 3 weighs exactly 4 pounds with a full tank of gas and the body on. That comes out to be about 1814 grams. Now is the minimum weight based on the car being filled with fuel or empty? If its not then im going to get these Carbon Upright Parts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVB87&P=7) to replace the aluminum ones I have to bring the weight down, but thats only if the minimum weight is if the car has a full tank of gas. Does anyone know for sure if those parts will fit on the RS4 3? If the minumum weight is based on the car dry, then im going to weigh my car with no gas to see if I still need those parts. And just out of curosity, does anyone know if the HPI .12r xs a roar legal engine? And do the bodies have to be four doors, because thats all I see by me.

Does anyone know any of these answers?

[supertoast]

Josh, how come all the purple bits (chassis, shock heads etc) are blue and not purple? You been playing about with the colours on your computer or are those available like that? lol

Also, what pipe are you using - tell me about it, sound, perfromance etc. I'm thinking of getting one but (and I know this sounds stupid) I like the sound from the HPI composite pipe! It almost silences the sound slightly and gives a nice tone which counts when I'm buzzing the neighbour's driveways :o

Chris

[KronicRacer]

Does anyone know any of these answers?


the weight im not sure of and same goes for the carbon parts though it seems as they might.....

as far as the 12rxs if its 3 port its legal. i dont remember the plugs though theyve kept flip flopping on that (standard vs. turbo plugs).
as far as the body just get a dodge stratus body and you should be fine if your gonna race.

[Jetskiboy77]

the weight im not sure of and same goes for the carbon parts though it seems as they might.....

as far as the 12rxs if its 3 port its legal. i dont remember the plugs though theyve kept flip flopping on that (standard vs. turbo plugs).
as far as the body just get a dodge stratus body and you should be fine if your gonna race.


I already have my Acura RSX body though, and I love the way it makes my car handle. I basicly only use Acura RSX bodies now because of that reason and would like to keep it. I looked at Roar Rules and it said a 2 or 4 door car that was raced in 1:1 scale, (something like that) and im pretty sure the RSX was raced. Is the RD Logics pipe legal? I thought it wasnt because I think it said turbo, but then the guy at my hobby shop had the same pipe for his car. Also, my car has been glitching really bad today, could it have been from the news reporters and their vans? I thought of that when I saw them around the corner and figured it was that, because it never glitched like the way that it did today.

[Zoo Tv]

Can anyone help me with inserting images into a post from a directory on the PC? Also how to re-size them to fit the file size limit?

Thanks,

[Jetskiboy77]

I use a program called Irfanview. You can find a place to download it if you type it's name into Google.

[Zoo Tv]

I use a program called Irfanview. You can find a place to download it if you type it's name into Google.

Thanks Jetskiboy77. But call me an imbocile, what do you do with it to easily re-size images so they can be input into a post. Then how do you include these into a post?

[MT2 owns you]

i dont have that program (i use photoimpression...i found it on my computer...it works good...btw, my computer is a HP pavillion f50 with windows XP...if you have a computer like mine have a look around) butto resize makeit so that the picture has less pixels side to side, top to bottom, then save it as a jpg, cuz i have found jpegs to have the smallest amount of kilobites allowing you to keep the picture bigger than if you saved it as something else. once you do that you go into advanced reply and click attach file. click browse, find the picture on your computer, then click upload. OR you can keep the picture the same size (unless its HUGE) and upload it onto imageshack which i find much easier to do. hope this helps you. (dont worry, i was once in your possition...im computer dumb...but i know enough to use the computer to my...expectations...)

[Zoo Tv]

Hope these pics work. Currently have broken front upright with parts on their way. Also awaiting carbon upperdeck and shock towers.

[Zoo Tv]

Is there a reason I can only upload 1 image per post?

[KronicRacer]

well when i post pics i upload pictures to photobucket. then i link the images from there to here best of all its free.

[Jetskiboy77]

I love the M3 body, good choice. I can only upload one image per post too. You can put multiple pics in a post if you upload them to a site and then link to them.

[KronicRacer]

zoo i meant to ask you. is that the venom speed meter? if so hows it working? any good?

[Jetskiboy77]

Zoo, you have any pics without the body?

[M3EVOlution]

Quick Q:

When adjusting my shocks/ links to the high traction setting, do I need to change my front castors and rear toes? (10 degree to 8 degree?) Because when I did this, the car was significantly higher, which was weird but at least it was stiffer. So my question is, why does the car end up so high in the front but low in the back when adjusting to the high traction setting?

Thanks

[M3EVOlution]

Josh, how did you mount the ball on the front castor. On my evo, i don't see any holes to mount them. And for the links, did your graphite upper deck come with the holes to mount the ball?

[MT2 owns you]

well...M3, i know im not josh but im pretty sure i know how it works...i just hope he wont be mad...he may not have wanted me to tell...anyway, he drilled a hole in the top of the c hub and screwed the ball in, the balls on the carbon upperdeck, im almost positive they are screwed into the steering flanges (is that what theyre called?)...now...this brings up my question...if the ball studs and regular screws have a different thread (which im almost positive they do...or my experiments would work other wise..) how did you get them in there? thanks. oh, M3, thats his own doing, none of that came with his upper deck.OH, does the upper deck COME with the holes..heheh..yes, i guess it does.

i have another question. i bought two center gear mounts ( http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0&pi_id=122446 ) and it DOES NOT FIT RIGHT! on the rs4 3 it hits the tank, even though it is made for the rs4 3 ! now how does it not fit?!??! thanks in advance.

[M3EVOlution]

Now I have a question again:

My car has some weird leveling when the body is placed on it. Basically, the rear passenger side is a lot higher that the rear driver side. (I cxan tell my the gap in the wheel wells!) Anyway, is it the body posts or the body that is crooked? The body posts are on the same level though. Maybe it's the body (HPI M3 body) that makes it sit on the car uneven? I have two of the same M3 bodies and both do the same. Maybe the M3 m,old was not accurate? Or the holes that were drilled on them(they were the pre painted, decaled, and drilled bodies from hpi.) were uneven, causing one side to be higher thsn the other? Please help me. Don't have money for another body to test if the problem really is the M3 body. Thanks :cool:

Also are the rear wheels supposed to be moving in towards the center of the car. They don't look really straight.

[M3EVOlution]

Her's the rear. Notice the left being higher than the right.