HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[M3EVOlution]

Here's the left side. Nice and low.

[M3EVOlution]

Here's the right side. Holy 4x4 batman! :eek:

[M3EVOlution]

Here's a pic of problem #2 (or is it normal? I don't remeber if it was like this when it was out the box brand new.)

The rear wheels do not sit straight like the front wheels. Or maybe it just looked crooked but really is straight.

[MT2 owns you]

M3, i think that you are right, ive seen countless uneven M3 bodies...so it probably is the the mold. i have the answer to your second question too, just let me find the paper (its from HPI's site, so look there while i get it if you want to, unfortunatly i dont know the link).....

ok i got it (the link is at the bottom btw, i found it after a few searches on HPI's site):

"Chapter Seven: Level 2 Adjustments
Level 2 adjustments are adjustments that still have a very drastic affect on the way the car handles, but are not nearly as noticeable as the Level 1 adjustments. If you have tried some of the above adjustments and the car is closer to where you want it but still not quite there, try some of these adjustments.

Toe

Both front and rear tires have an adjustment for toe. Because they are very similar, we�ll cover both of them here.


The above image shows a rear tire with about 2 degrees of Toe In.
(White arrow).
(HPI 1/10th Scale Nitro Racer 2 shown)


What it does: Toe is the angle of the tires in relation to their direction of travel. 0 degrees toe is when the tires are pointing straight ahead. Negative toe angle (or toe in) is where the front of the tires are pointing in towards the chassis whereas positive toe angle (or toe out) is where the front of the tires are pointing away from the chassis. The more toe in you have the more stable the car is but the less steering it has. The more toe out you have the more steering you have but the car is less stable and feels more twitchy. In the front, toe in will give you less turn in and make the rear feel more stable. Toe out in the front will give you really good turn in but may make the car spin out. More rear toe in will give the rear of the car more stability but decrease the amount of overall steering you have while decreasing the amount of rear toe in (you never want toe out in the rear) will give you more steering but make the back spin easily.

How to Change it: For the front, most cars have adjustable steering links called turnbuckles. By turning these turnbuckles one-way, you�ll shorten the link and by turning it the other way you will lengthen the link. Shortening the link gives you more toe out (if starting at 0) while lengthening the link will give you more toe in (if starting at 0). As a general rule, you don�t want more than one degree of toe out or more than -2 degrees of toe in. For the rear, pillow ball suspension based cars will let you tune the amount of toe in to any amount you desire. Most cars do not use pillow ball suspension but, like HPI cars, use hinge pin based suspension. To change the rear toe in a hinge pin based suspension, the rear hub must be swapped out and exchanged for one with a different toe setting. Usually the manufacturer will have the rear hubs made with their toe in amounts molded into them for easy recognition. For most cars, 2 degrees toe in for the rear is a good starting point and you never want toe out in the rear.

When to change it: Generally the rear you would almost never change. If you want a little more steering, you could reduce the amount of rear toe but do it in small, � degree amounts. In the front, if the car doesn�t feel like it is wanting to turn in very aggressively but you would like it to, decrease the amount of toe in or use a degree of toe out. If the car turns in too aggressively and the back end wants to spin out entering a corner, add a little toe in.

Tips: If you have a car that spins out going into a turn, look here first. If your front toe is set to one degree toe out or 0 degrees toe, give it a little toe in. Many people overlook this adjustment when faced with this problem.

Cost: Free for most cars but very hard to adjust on non-turnbuckle equipped cars."-hpiracing.com

i found the link. here it is: http://www.hpiracing.com/tuning/intro.htm

[M3EVOlution]

Thanks man! BTW, will the badly molded m3 body cause the car to handle different compared to other car bodies?

[M3EVOlution]

BTW, who actually races their car or bashes around? All the pics I see, especially supertoast have clean cars. And their chassis isn't scratched. If so, what's the secret to keeping them clean/ unscrached on the bottom?

[MT2 owns you]

chassis protector? stiff shocks that dont let the chassis scrape? the surpfaces the run on? dunno. could be a new chassis...doubt it though. i know my chassis will get plenty scratched though :D (im converting it to rally:D:D:D)

[gangstar]

lol, my car is dirty all the time. It's mainly due to the area in which i drive it, there is always a thin layer of mud, and it's always raining regularly here (in england), so it flies into the car and sticks everywhere.

Also, my chassis is totally scratched up, if anybody knows how to protect it, then plz tell me, ill do that for my next chassis. MT2 owns you, wats a chassis protector?

As you can see, the plastic bit underneath my front bumper is bent as well, but im on a pretty tight budget and i want to get a new exhaust and header, so i'll hav to live with it.

Also, you might not be able to see from the pic, but the little tube poking out the exhaust actually broke off and i stuck it back on again with superglue, to last until i get a new exhaust! lol

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/theocmaster/000_0184.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/theocmaster/000_0183.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/theocmaster/000_0182.jpg

[supertoast]

Hey, my car very rarely looks that clean mate - that was after an upgrade session too so most stuff was new.

If you are getting excessive scratching to your chassis I'd think more about the surface you are racing on and maybe adjusting the ride hight.

I must admit though, I do spend a lot of time cleaning my car - it helps learn your way around it and spot any damage you might have missed before.

Nitro Cleaner? Isopropyl Alcohol Spray? Whatever does the job.

[gangstar]

how do you adjust the ride height?

[supertoast]

how do you adjust the ride height?

You can adjust the ride height slightly by altering the position and angle of the shocks, using the provided optional holes.

I found that after upgrading to the carbon graphite shock towers I was able to adjust the ride height more considerably, suiting my road surface better and reducing bottoming out.

Note: you will allways get skids and scratches underneath, so don't get upset about scratches on your chassis.

[Zoo Tv]

zoo i meant to ask you. is that the venom speed meter? if so hows it working? any good?

Hey Kronic - BTW thanks for your work on posting mods to the RS4 - muchly anticipated and enjoyed.

Yeah its the Venom Speed Meter. Working extremely well. Was VERY precise in calibrating it and got 76kmh out of it (manufacture top speed is 81?). Still a little leaning out to do and the road I was driving on at the time was far from ideal with plenty of twigs on the road meaning I couldnt drive at full throttle for too long a length for fear of losing control under braking - which I did! and snapped the front upright.
Only problem I have with the VSM is mounting of the magnet to a driveshaft. I mounted it to the front centre (from centre 2-speed) shaft but came off (and therefore lost) during collision with said gutter. Doh!

Jetski - will take some "naked" pics soon adn post. Nothing special. Just an 18SS kit with minimal mods - awaiting carbon upper deck and shock towers to arrive.....

[snowboardgeek1]

Hey guys

I have an RS4 3 18SS. Just bought it used a couple weeks ago. Pretty much brand new and only 6 tanks ran through it. How many turns out do you have your 2 speed tranny's set screw at, from the closed position. I'm having a hell of a time getting the car to shift properly. Are you guys using the black spring?

I don't know if I have the black or silver spring. But from 2.5-3-3.5 turns out from the closed positiion, the car stil won't shift into 2nd. Any clues or ideas on how to get this car to shift would be greatly appreciated.

Other than that, the car seems to be powerful. It screams to the top end. I just need it to shift.

[rs4lola]

dont know yet. ive just finished with the stage d construction.

still have to set it up and begin the dial in process.
and with the way the weathers been....... it'll be a few days before i run it.
Just finished running my rs4-3 type r!!! This is a rs4-3ss with front and rear suspension from NTC3. Yep, I was able to install pivot ball suspension in both front and rear for rs4-3. Had to use ld3 pro upper arms so that i could adjust the castor. Full pictures next week as I have lost my digital cam usb cord!!!
Anyway here is some info about the racing upgrades I have done to the car:
Full carbon suspension from NTC3 (LD3 front upper arms)
Wolfpack Radicals 2-speed and adjustable engine mounts
R40 clutch with Mugen Red clutch shoe, extra hard spring
woven graphite upper deck, f&r shock towers
front solid axle
18ss heavy duty diff gears
serpent sway bar installed in front
and lots more stuff (hi-speed digital steering servo, spectrum radio,...)

The rs4-3ss can now easily hold its own in parking lot racing
The r40 gears allow a wider selection of gear ratios. I am currently running
1st gear of 44/15 and 2nd gear 41/19 with a final gear ratio of 2.57
Ist gear ratio := 7.54 ; 2nd gear ratio := 5.55. The r40 clutch with the Mugen red shoe is amazing as I do not have to rev the engine to get it moving. Acceleration is instant and consistent. The Wolfpack 2-speed works EVERY time, probably the best all around upgrade you can make whether racing this car or not. Yes...spent way too much money but the challenge of turning the rs4-3ss into a real racer has been fun... :D

[Zoo Tv]

Here's a pic of problem #2 (or is it normal? I don't remeber if it was like this when it was out the box brand new.)

The rear wheels do not sit straight like the front wheels. Or maybe it just looked crooked but really is straight.


M3Evo, what size tyres you running on the front?

[M3EVOlution]

30mm foam tires all around

[M3EVOlution]

SWAY BARS FOR RS4 3

How do you install these and where do they go? Do they really help?

[Jetskiboy77]

The sway bars arent really that helpful. If you already have all the other options on your car then its something you can get, but if you need/want something else I would get that other item first. They go in the circles in the attatched pic, if you look you can see them on the A arms.

[KronicRacer]

Just finished running my rs4-3 type r!!! This is a rs4-3ss with front and rear suspension from NTC3. Yep, I was able to install pivot ball suspension in both front and rear for rs4-3. Had to use ld3 pro upper arms so that i could adjust the castor. Full pictures next week as I have lost my digital cam usb cord!!!
Anyway here is some info about the racing upgrades I have done to the car:
Full carbon suspension from NTC3 (LD3 front upper arms)
Wolfpack Radicals 2-speed and adjustable engine mounts
R40 clutch with Mugen Red clutch shoe, extra hard spring
woven graphite upper deck, f&r shock towers
front solid axle
18ss heavy duty diff gears
serpent sway bar installed in front
and lots more stuff (hi-speed digital steering servo, spectrum radio,...)

The rs4-3ss can now easily hold its own in parking lot racing
The r40 gears allow a wider selection of gear ratios. I am currently running
1st gear of 44/15 and 2nd gear 41/19 with a final gear ratio of 2.57
Ist gear ratio := 7.54 ; 2nd gear ratio := 5.55. The r40 clutch with the Mugen red shoe is amazing as I do not have to rev the engine to get it moving. Acceleration is instant and consistent. The Wolfpack 2-speed works EVERY time, probably the best all around upgrade you can make whether racing this car or not. Yes...spent way too much money but the challenge of turning the rs4-3ss into a real racer has been fun... :D

cant wait to see what the front looks like. :cool:

[M3EVOlution]

Can anyone please give me a link to where I can buy glowplugs for my stock engine rs4 3 evo? All I see on towerhobbies are "glowplugs for .12-.15 engines." Also, I'm looking for cheap ones that are good. Also how long do you think the one on my car(factory glow plug) will last?

[M3EVOlution]

Also, where can I buy these. Right now mine are black and I want everything that is yellow. Can anypne give me a link to where i can get them for a good price in light blue or purple. Also, where can I buy the yellow thing by the throttle servo's brake?

Thanks guys

[M3EVOlution]

Does anyone know if thesewill fit my evo?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFAT9&P=7

[KronicRacer]

I already have my Acura RSX body though, and I love the way it makes my car handle. I basicly only use Acura RSX bodies now because of that reason and would like to keep it. I looked at Roar Rules and it said a 2 or 4 door car that was raced in 1:1 scale, (something like that) and im pretty sure the RSX was raced. Is the RD Logics pipe legal? I thought it wasnt because I think it said turbo, but then the guy at my hobby shop had the same pipe for his car. Also, my car has been glitching really bad today, could it have been from the news reporters and their vans? I thought of that when I saw them around the corner and figured it was that, because it never glitched like the way that it did today.

rd logics is legal and also if you are getting interference get a failsafe


M3EVOlution

the plugs for .12-.15 should fit .18 motors. look for plugs from os max pretty good for the price. now is the plug you have n there from when you first broke in the car? if so i may be time for you to change them. typically after breaking in a motor you also want to change out the glow plug for a fresh new one.

also on the tire question no those wont fit because they don have hex adapters and 2 they are way too wide.


on a side note i was gonna run the car on friday when i noticed the bodys didnt fit anymore. will be posting pics of my latest body.... (C6 corvette)
turns out that the wheelbase is slightly longer now with the mods so i had to paint a new body and even then i shouldve gone with a protoform vs. an hpi body since i hade to cut and grind the fender wider than stock on the body.

hey rs4lola did the wheelbase get longer or shorter with the ntc3 parts?

[Zoo Tv]

[QUOTE=KronicRacer]

also on the tire question no those wont fit because they don have hex adapters and 2 they are way too wide.

QUOTE]

Do you mean 30mm foams on the front are too wide?

Currently I run 26mm rubber all round, or 26mm fronts and 30mm rear foams.

[KronicRacer]

you can run 30mm foams all around

that big giant wheel that m3 linked to was way too big

anyway heres my latest spray job 2005 c6 corvette

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/8e1afa3f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/89687905.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/ced290ec.jpg

also heres the ntc3 manifold on the stage d as you can see theres a gap

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/c1116279.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/kronicracer/4ae265de.jpg

[Jetskiboy77]

Very nicely done Vette. Also, where did you get your pipe mount from?

[M3EVOlution]

The sway bars arent really that helpful. If you already have all the other options on your car then its something you can get, but if you need/want something else I would get that other item first. They go in the circles in the attatched pic, if you look you can see them on the A arms.
Also, where can I buy those yellow things in the pic that attach to the ball joint?. Right now mine are the stock plastic, 1 piece black links and I want everything that is pictured in yellow. Can anyone give me a link to where i can get them for a good price in light blue or purple. Also, where can I buy the yellow thing by the throttle servo's brake?

Thanks guys

[MT2 owns you]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVT97&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRP8&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVT96&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB06&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB07&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB08&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB09&P=7

the thing near the brake is fuel tubing, it should be on yours too just a different color. if you look theres also fuel tubing on the fuel tank lid (for a handle) held on with a zip tie and a zip tie head.

[M3EVOlution]

Now where can I find the metal rods that these screw onto?

[MT2 owns you]

Now where can I find the metal rods that these screw onto?
search towerhobbies for "lunsford", also, take yours apart and measure how long they are because this is the length that you need when you order the new ones.

[rs4lola]

...hey rs4lola did the wheelbase get longer or shorter with the ntc3 parts? I think the wheel base is a little shorter as I am using a protoform stratus body (3.0) and i have to cut more of the front of the rear wheel wells
to make it fit properly. This is a very good touring body for racing. Do you use any rear sway bars on your car? I looked at the kyosho rrr and I think the rear sway bar can be made to fit if you use the NTC3 rear suspension arms. I tried the blade sway bars but they did not fit properly without major dremeling. I have done very little dremeling so far and the fit is much better if you can find the part on another car...should have some pictures over the weekend...

[Jetskiboy77]

search towerhobbies for "lunsford", also, take yours apart and measure how long they are because this is the length that you need when you order the new ones.

I dont think Tower has the Lunsford ones for the RS4 3 on there. Also, the HPI ones arent in stock. Im trying to find the titanium ones but they dont seem to be on Tower right now and now im waiting for my LHS to order them. :( Can anyone suggest any other options I should get based on the pic above? Thats not an updated pic, so ill try to get more right after I clean the car tomorrow. Any suggestions are welcomed.

[MT2 owns you]

I dont think Tower has the Lunsford ones for the RS4 3 on there. Also, the HPI ones arent in stock. Im trying to find the titanium ones but they dont seem to be on Tower right now and now im waiting for my LHS to order them. :( Can anyone suggest any other options I should get based on the pic above? Thats not an updated pic, so ill try to get more right after I clean the car tomorrow. Any suggestions are welcomed.
you mean the set? no. the size so that you just order 3 packs of them? yes. i know they do because i just got 1" ones for my rs4 3 rally convertion car...

[Jetskiboy77]

you mean the set? no. the size so that you just order 3 packs of them? yes. i know they do because i just got 1" ones for my rs4 3 rally convertion car...

Do you have a link? And how much did it cost you?

Edit:

Just took a look, im guessing this is what you mean Owen:
1 Inch Turnbuckles (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY738&P=7)

On a side note, its 4 AM and im looking up parts for my car, and the funny part is that I spent the last 4 hours cleaning my car. Hopefully new pics tomorrow, and I definitly need a new gas tank. Great.

[KronicRacer]

I think the wheel base is a little shorter as I am using a protoform stratus body (3.0) and i have to cut more of the front of the rear wheel wells
to make it fit properly. This is a very good touring body for racing. Do you use any rear sway bars on your car? I looked at the kyosho rrr and I think the rear sway bar can be made to fit if you use the NTC3 rear suspension arms. I tried the blade sway bars but they did not fit properly without major dremeling. I have done very little dremeling so far and the fit is much better if you can find the part on another car...should have some pictures over the weekend...

doh! i can use the blade from the g4 on mine with no prob. im still interested on looking at the front though.

Jetskiboy77
i took the pipe mount off of my spare g4

[MT2 owns you]

Do you have a link? And how much did it cost you?

Edit:

Just took a look, im guessing this is what you mean Owen:
1 Inch Turnbuckles (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY738&P=7)

On a side note, its 4 AM and im looking up parts for my car, and the funny part is that I spent the last 4 hours cleaning my car. Hopefully new pics tomorrow, and I definitly need a new gas tank. Great.
yep those are the ones. but mines a rally car, or becoming a rally car so i dont know if that makes a difference.

[Jetskiboy77]

Owen im pretty sure it should be the same size.

Updated Pics:

[Jetskiboy77]

Another one:

[Jetskiboy77]

My plans are to get titanium turnbuckles and titanium ball ends. I also want to get Wolfpacks 2 speed and then I think im completly track ready. I was also thinking about titanium screws, but should I just stick to converting to hex hardened scres? They seem really good and my neighbor that knows hardware said there high quality. Any suggestions or thoughts? Last Pic:

[josh222]

looks nice

[Silent Night]

Looks great, I like the look of the aluminum and carbon fiber together. Whats the width of your rear foams?

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks guys, my rears are 30mm. Im about to place an order since I got a job and got paid today. I got $120 buring a hole in my pocket. Im thinking about ordering all of this, but if anyone thinks otherwise tell me:

Titanium Turnbuckles x3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY738&P=7)

Titanium Ball Studs x3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPP1&P=7)

Hex Button Head Screws (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPA0&P=0)

Hex Countersunk Screw (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGNZ4&P=0)

Thats almost all of the order, still some things to figure out. What does everyone think of titanium screws? Im really thinking about getting some screws titanium and some black steel.

[MT2 owns you]

i dont know where the ball studs are going, but if its aluminum or graphite, you might want to think about that some more. look at the threads if you havent already, although im sure you already thought of all this. the rest...i like. i wanna get hex screws too.

[Jetskiboy77]

Well I thought 100% that they would fit before you said that. I did think about the threads and where its going. Now your making me second guess myself and I keep comparing the pics of the stock ones to the titanium ones. Im pretty sure that they will fit. Anyone know for sure if they will or will not fit?

[MT2 owns you]

well..they should have the same thread as the ones you have now...which i have nooo clue how you got in there...well...take the ones on your shock tower for example, they are held on with a nut. compare those threads to the stock ones that thread into the plasitc shock tower. it should be different, it is for me.

[apol7ne]

Here's a pic of problem #2 (or is it normal? I don't remeber if it was like this when it was out the box brand new.)

The rear wheels do not sit straight like the front wheels. Or maybe it just looked crooked but really is straight.

its a TOE IN, manufatured design to get more traction on low traction surfaces.

[M3EVOlution]

Damn, why are those lunsford turnbuckles so expensive. If you think about it, it's just like a metal screw.

[Jetskiboy77]

Its because its titanium. Look at these screws im going to order and how much they are:
HPI TP Binder HD Screw M3x15mm (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA33&P=0)

HPI TP Flat HD Screw M3x18mm (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA38&P=0)

And thats just some of the screws im ordering. My order is going to be almost $100.

[M3EVOlution]

Does anyone sell turnbuckles that are just metal? Don't really see why I need "titanium."

[MT2 owns you]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCYS9&P=ML <- the descrition says its metal :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Those work well, I have them right now. I think that theyre made out of steel. Im switching them out for the titanium for the strength and weight, otherwise those get the job done.

[M3EVOlution]

mt2. the link isn't working for me. Can anyone relink it?

[MT2 owns you]

dont worry, it shouldnt be working for anyone, tower is down right now.

edit: ok, tower isnt down, the main page works, but everything else on towers site is down..

[Jetskiboy77]

Tower is down, thank god I got my order in before that happened otherwise I would have been pretty mad.

[1tegra1]

has anyone used an os 12tz with sg shaft on the rs4? what flywheel can I use because the stock doesn't fit and the option flywheel doesn't fit neither.

[MT2 owns you]

im pretty sure sg shafts (the long ones right?) dont drop in the rs4's without a bit of modification, however, i dont think you wasted that money because i think there IS something you can do to make them fit, no idea what though.

[Silent Night]

Um.... what do you mean it doesn't fit? like does it not go on, or is there not enough room to hold it on with the nut? Or the gear mesh is wrong and you need to push the engine up? I think you needed a centax clutch for them but I'm not sure..

[M3EVOlution]

PLEASE HELP! I installed a new chassis and.........


When putting the engine and the transmission on the chassis, is there any special way to position it so the gears will grip? Anyway, that's what I did (I made the gears bite eachother), but once everything was on, I started the car, and the gears just kept going very fast. Please help me.

thanks guys!

[Wolfgang]

1tegra1
SG crank physical dimensions are the same as . 21 engine -
Item needed . 21 fly wheel [Yokomo ] + Ofna #10098 fly wheel nut kit -- or equivalent.
check brake disc clearance and gear line -
Problem with gear line up ad -- subtract spacers or use adjustable mounts.

[1tegra1]

Um.... what do you mean it doesn't fit? like does it not go on, or is there not enough room to hold it on with the nut? Or the gear mesh is wrong and you need to push the engine up? I think you needed a centax clutch for them but I'm not sure..

the optional HPI flywheel doesn't fit the SG shaft. The hole is to small to go thru the shaft. I really would like to try out this 12 tz on my rs4 because the handling is definitely there, just need speed.

[Jetskiboy77]

If you want you can get the Hot Bodies Centax clutch and the Hot Bodies engine mounts and your problem will be completly solved. You'll also have a great clutch to match a powerful engine.

[rs4lola]

Here is a picture of my modified rs4-3ss:

rs4-3ss-rear

[rs4lola]

Another from the front:

rs4-3ss-front

[MT2 owns you]

you got a really nice car! i like it!

[ron1431]

thats a nice car where did u find the opt body post i been trying to find those rear body post 4ever.could u post a pic with the body on.

[Jetskiboy77]

Lookin good Lola.

[Jbrother7]

I may have missed this already but Lola how do you like the vantage pipe? advantages/disadvantages?

[Zoo Tv]

Another from the front:

rs4-3ss-front

nice car there Rs4lola. Can you post a more detailed shot of your front and rear suspension mods in this configuration?

Cheers,

[rs4lola]

I may have missed this already but Lola how do you like the vantage pipe? advantages/disadvantages?The vantage pipe works as good as the RD Logic turbo pipe I had before. I think the vantage pipe has a 6.00mm stinger, so its outlaw size only for now. As you can probably see, my setup is strictly for short track parking lot racing and getting lots of torque low down makes great acceleration. The NovaRossi rr12l3 is a beast for short tracks. Acceleration is outstanding in first gear. I think the top end can be topped by a OS TZ or RB V12 but in first gear, this engine is very hard to beat...

[rs4lola]

nice car there Rs4lola. Can you post a more detailed shot of your front and rear suspension mods in this configuration?

Cheers,I will try later this week. My Sony digital camera is giving me fits!!! The suspension mod to full pivot ball is definitely not for show. It works damn good and I do not understand why HPI does not improve the rs4-3ss and add pivot ball suspension as standard or at least an option. To make this suspension work though, you really have to stiffen up the car and make it lighter too. As an example,I use ceramic bearings(Acer racing) and titanium flanged balls(3racing) in the suspension. Hopefully my setup will encourage others to max out their rs4-4's for racing too...

[ron1431]

can any one please tell me how good the hotbodies super chassis? is im going to buy one from rcboyz.

[Jetskiboy77]

Lola whered you get that handle from?

[ron1431]

i think gpm makes that handle (http://www.gpmracing.us/index.cgi?partnumber=NMT4112&c=113)

[MT2 owns you]

Lola whered you get that handle from?
yea, jetskiboy, thats the handle me and josh were showing you

[rcracermad]

hi i race my nitro car at www.adurtouringcars.com and i will be coming into my second year of racing soon! i have at the moment a hotbodies tornado with tune up parts, but i have really found the limits to the car! i hope to get a rs4 3 evo soon, but i want to use a starter box and a pullstart! does a starter box fit an rs4 3 evo? is it a good car? i really hope so because i want to get alot of grahite parts for it!! any replys would be great! Cheers, Glenn.. :D :rolleyes: :) :) :) :) :)

[M3EVOlution]

Can anyone help me? I can't run my car right now.

PLEASE HELP! I installed a new chassis by hotbodies and.........


When putting the engine and the transmission on the chassis, is there any special way to position it so the gears will grip? Anyway, that's what I did (I made the gears bite eachother), but once everything was on, I started the car, and the gears just kept going very fast. Please help me. I believe the positioning of the gears may have something to do with this.

thanks guys!

[MT2 owns you]

i have a question. today i bought my friends rs4 3, checked the engine, it works ( :eek: ), but the compression isnt fantastic, but enough obviously because i was running it maybe 10 minutes ago, starts on the first few pulls too if primed right. :D. so heres my question, for those of you with the stock rs4 3 ss engine, the .12r, what are your temps and what are your needly settings? also, how well does your tune? easy? hard? medium? can it keep a tune or no? thanks in advance!

[Zoo Tv]

Can anyone help me? I can't run my car right now.

PLEASE HELP! I installed a new chassis by hotbodies and.........


When putting the engine and the transmission on the chassis, is there any special way to position it so the gears will grip? Anyway, that's what I did (I made the gears bite eachother), but once everything was on, I started the car, and the gears just kept going very fast. Please help me. I believe the positioning of the gears may have something to do with this.

thanks guys!

When you say the gears are going very fast, is the engine idling or revving out? If idling, check the flywheel - seems to be engaging far too early....

[M3EVOlution]

It moves when idling. BTW, before, i installed the new chassis, i started the car and there weren't any problems with keeping the wheels stopped and the gears unroated. Just when I slapped everything on the chassis was when it idle'd bad.

Thanks zoo tv. BTW, how do i correct the problem with the flywheel engagement?

[Silent Night]

Do you have a centax or racing clutch? I dont think you can adjust the engagment with the stock one...

[MT2 owns you]

Do you have a centax or racing clutch? I dont think you can adjust the engagment with the stock one...
with the stock one you actually can. theres different stiffness springs.

m3, did you take the clutch bell and clutch off at any point? i know that when i put my clutch back on my springs were much softer (and easier to get on :) )

[M3EVOlution]

All I did was unscrew the part #2 and screwed it to the chassis. The clutch was not removed. However in part #2, I was moving the gears a bit. I don't know why i did it.(hope that wasn't the problem)

Then I removed the engine which was attached to part #1. (I believe this part was the clutch bell? Sorry, I'm still a newb at nitro parts!) Well when I unscrewed it frpom the old chassis, I was also moving it around to see if it spun freely. I'll try to get a vid of the car idling tonight. Any suggestions on the fix? Thanks for all the help guys! :)

Here's the picture.
http://img307.imageshack.us/img307/3348/untitled1oq.png

[M3EVOlution]

Here's my quick video to help you guys understand my problem a bit easier.
http://s6.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=2A2LIYT9ZBU0D3MUVBE2IP4SVS
Sidenote: Pls excuse the moment when I hit the brake. :mad: I was supposed to gas it a bit. I guess my clutch is f'd too?

[MT2 owns you]

um...maybe the flywheel is hitting the spur, spur shaft or something...thats my only guess, although i doubt thats the case..but you said you meshed them tightly..so maybe it is...

edit: wow, that video helps a LOT. your idle is too high! you probably need to re adjust the servos. at idle, there should be a 1mm opening in the carb. also i noticed it was going faster...kinda weird...but theres your answer, im almost positive.

edit again: um..when you hit the gas, you mean how it slowed down? it bogged down, its either too rich (not likely) or it was still warming up, since it was started in the video, it was warming up still.

[M3EVOlution]

Do you need anymore pictures to find out if they're hitting?

edit: MT2, I didn't change the throttle setting prior to installing the new chassis though. If that's the problem, it sucks because I suck at adjusting the throttle servos.

[MT2 owns you]

Do you need anymore pictures to find out if they're hitting?

edit: MT2, I didn't change the throttle setting prior to installing the new chassis though. If that's the problem, it sucks because I suck at adjusting the throttle servos.
i think its where your engine is on the chassis, the idle difference isnt much, so id say...its kinda likely its the position of your engine versus the throttle servo linkage. easy to fix, you can adjust it on your radio, and then adjust manually the brake on your car accordingly, or adjust manually the throttle linkage on your car and adjust the brake or radio settings accordingly. its pretty simple/easy to fix.

[M3EVOlution]

Okay, thanks sir.

[M3EVOlution]

UPDATE Pls read.

I decided to install everything on my old chassis. When I was done screwing everything on it,I decided to start up the car. The problem was that it started but it didn't last for long and died. Could gearing cause this problem? Should I check if the glow plug glows?(even though the glow plug igniter has the needle at 4)

[MT2 owns you]

i think we need another short video :) the videos really help!

so did you adjust anything? or just move it over as is?

[Zoo Tv]

I would say that something has been knocked during the transfer between chassis'. On your vid MT Owns You is right - idling far too high, then curiosly you say it stalls when back in the old chassis. Sounds like the new graphite upper deck you have is slightly repositioning the servo meaning it moves it toward throttling the carb in the new chassis - possibly you have tried to correct bringing the idle down slightly by changing the trims, then installed in the old chassis and the car is now not getting enough air/fuel at idle and stalling.

Just a thought.....

[apol7ne]

I would say that something has been knocked during the transfer between chassis'. On your vid MT Owns You is right - idling far too high, then curiosly you say it stalls when back in the old chassis. Sounds like the new graphite upper deck you have is slightly repositioning the servo meaning it moves it toward throttling the carb in the new chassis - possibly you have tried to correct bringing the idle down slightly by changing the trims, then installed in the old chassis and the car is now not getting enough air/fuel at idle and stalling.

Just a thought.....

(addition) try using the 85039(4) throttle link instead of A396.

[M3EVOlution]

Yes, I'll get another video soon.

[M3EVOlution]

Thanks for the help evryone!

BTW, my carb had a very small opening at idle causing it to stall. Thanks again.

[josh222]

well i get paid on friday and i should have some money to fix up my SS :)

[Zoo Tv]

Whats wrong with it Josh?

[josh222]

radio glitched, smack curb in 2-nd gear, bent chassi and a bent dog bone

[Zoo Tv]

As promised earlier, here are some "nude" pics of my RS4. As you can tell, still awaiting my order of graphite parts - namely upperdeck and shock towers, and sway bar kit. Being in Australia is such a pain........sometimes!


EDIT - Although fuzzy, this shows the pick up point for the VSM on the front centre driveshaft. Can anyone suggest a better mounting point with the new graphite upper deck?

[Zoo Tv]

Another....

[Zoo Tv]

And another...

[Zoo Tv]

And another.......

[Zoo Tv]

And the last......

[MT2 owns you]

well, i bought my friends car a few days ago, and it came with some graphite shock towers (:D)...so im like "great, graphite shock towers, now i dont have to buy them" but this car was very special. it was really dirty, and its really...oddly put together...the rear shock tower wasnt where it was supposed to be, there was a layer maybe 1mm thick (think about it, thats alot) of dirt on the rear of the engine around the engine and rear a arm mount and a arms, the rest was only really dirty (instead of really dirty) ive cleaned all that and now when i goto put it together in the form of a somewhat-racer touring car, i realize that theres a few parts i need but dont have (well, acutally i realized that almost immediatly when i took it apart), so i go on tower and find the graphite tower to see what i need, and guess what, i dont have the hpi shock tower! i have NO IDEA who makes it. i cant find it ANYWHERE! so id really appreciate it if you guys would help me find it. heres a pic > http://img311.imageshack.us/img311/9461/dscf04009ko.th.jpg ([URL=http://img311.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf04009ko.jpg)

anyway, i said i was building a
somewhat-racer touring car...
...well heres a few pics of it > http://img304.imageshack.us/img304/3540/dscf03980te.th.jpg (http://img304.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf03980te.jpg)http://img304.imageshack.us/img304/9606/dscf03995xg.th.jpg (http://img304.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf03995xg.jpg)

[Jetskiboy77]

Nice Owen, Good Luck with it. That graphite upperdeck is one that Ive never seen before, and is that the aluminum or graphite bumper mount in the edge of that pic?

[KronicRacer]

Another from the front:

rs4-3ss-front


looks sweet looks like a very low flyer :cool:

[DSMTL-01]

I bought a NRS4 3 SS for $40 last weekend.

This is my first nitro car. I got it cause it was cheap and all the parts looked like they were in there. This will only be used for bashing. I've run electrics since my first car a Tamiya Super Champ.

The good news is all the drivetrain parts were there and I have the car put back together. This is bone stock and is controlled by my Futaba 1024PCM radio system.

I have some questions. The cheapo S3003 servo is having a tough time turning left ... right is fine but it goes about 2/3 of the way to the left (yes I did check the trim settings. If I help pull the steering arm while the servo is pulling it goes all the way. I tried another servo to see if that one was bad and get the same thing. I'm guessing I have to get a HiTec hi-torque. but was wondering if there is any way to loosen up the steering. I did take it all apart and lube all the points that are pointed out in the assembly instructions.

I had a question on aftermarket stuff for the car as well. What stuff is good for:
- good (long lasting) rubber tires for bashing
- aftermarket pipe (for use with stock HPI header)
- upper decks

Thanks,

Dave

[MT2 owns you]

Nice Owen, Good Luck with it. That graphite upperdeck is one that Ive never seen before, and is that the aluminum or graphite bumper mount in the edge of that pic?
its aluminum, i dont think im ever going to use it unless i make an onroad basher (that would give me i think 4 rc's...which is a bit excessive for me, 3 is fine). the upper deck is from hot bodies, and i admit, it is kinda unusual, and i dont think ive seen it before either. also, it looks lighter than most graphite upper decks, so i think ill keep it in my touring car.


so no one knows where to get that shock tower??? :confused:

[MT2 owns you]

I have some questions. The cheapo S3003 servo is having a tough time turning left ... right is fine but it goes about 2/3 of the way to the left (yes I did check the trim settings. If I help pull the steering arm while the servo is pulling it goes all the way. I tried another servo to see if that one was bad and get the same thing. I'm guessing I have to get a HiTec hi-torque. but was wondering if there is any way to loosen up the steering. I did take it all apart and lube all the points that are pointed out in the assembly instructions.
i dont think its the servo, although i have that servo too and hate it. take off the linkage (the part on the servo...the servo arm thats the name!!)turn on your electronics and radio, center the steering servo, get the wheels as straight as you can and with the ball attatched to the steering assembly AND the servo arm, put the servo arm back on, making sure to move the wheels as little as you can when you do. if you did it right, once, the arm is back on and is held on with the screw, you shouldnt have to do anything.

[rcracermad]

the upperdeck is the hotbodies one!
the batteryfit strait under the shelf withought buying the 4 lydown ones! :)

[Zoo Tv]

Quick question, for those who are running 30mm rims/tyres up front, how you making it fit and not bind on the steering arm part of the upright?

[M3EVOlution]

RC boyz have the shock towers.

[MT2 owns you]

RC boyz have the shock towers.
are you sure? i looked and couldnt find them. do you have a link?

[M3EVOlution]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5987290326&category=34063&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5987290144&category=34063&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

[MT2 owns you]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5987290326&category=34063&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5987290144&category=34063&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

yea, those are graphite shock towers, but look at my pic and then theirs, they arent the same. the hpi one has 4 or 5 shock tower mounts, while mine has 7. im starting to think mine might be custom made.

[Silent Night]

Quick question, for those who are running 30mm rims/tyres up front, how you making it fit and not bind on the steering arm part of the upright?

you would need at least -2 degrees offset and spacers... :(

[MT2 owns you]

has anybody tried this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJFY6&P=ML) engine? how much power do you think its capable of? i was thinking of going with this (http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=61235R&type=store) pipe for my touring car (i have 2 rs4 3's, one on road, one rally converted). is there a better pipe for not much more money? thanks

[Silent Night]

the .12 tz makes about 1.4 hp with 2 shims.. with 1 off i donno but maybe it could make around 1.5-1.6... i think that thatwould be the best 1-piece pipe for the money... (do racers still use pipes with couplers??)

[Zoo Tv]

Another from the front:

rs4-3ss-front

Hey Rs4lola, any chance you could list the parts required to do the NTC3 pivot ball suspension conversion? Any midifications required or a direct fit?

[Silent Night]

I thought that was the WPR one...

[ron1431]

hello im looking to upgrade my brake performance and i was wonding what kind of upgrades should i do. please suggest linkages, rotors, brake pads, servos, etc.. thanks

[Jetskiboy77]

hello im looking to upgrade my brake performance and i was wonding what kind of upgrades should i do. please suggest linkages, rotors, brake pads, servos, etc.. thanks


I use this conversion (http://kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#metal) on my NMT and my RS4 3. I really like these brakes a lot and they do offer a great increase in perfromance. Its a really simple mod too, and even though it shows it for the NMT you can do it for the RS4 3 also. Also, a good servo can help your brakes too. I like the Hitec 645MG servo, and its not too pricy either.

[ron1431]

thanks jetski info very helpful. any more suggestions?

[Jetskiboy77]

thanks jetski info very helpful. any more suggestions?


No problem, thats the best that I can think of for now.

[Jetskiboy77]

Actually I just found a new thing that im going to experiment with for the brakes on my NMT bash truck. If you give me a few days, ill tell you if it works or not.

[ron1431]

alright jetski. i am not really racing so i dont need a such high quality servo. can u suggest another one something around 20-30. thanks

[MT2 owns you]

if i were you, id spend the extra 10$ for the quality, i doubt youll regret it. remember, just because you arent a racer doesnt mean you shouldnt go for quality.

[rs4lola]

Hey Rs4lola, any chance you could list the parts required to do the NTC3 pivot ball suspension conversion? Any midifications required or a direct fit?OK here goes (unless noted, all parts are from NTC3)
Front Suspension
2 Lower Arms
2 Steering Hubs
2 LD3/CD3 Pro Upper Arms
2 HPI 42mm button head screws
4 (???) 8x3mm bearings
3 Kyosho 5.8mm Flanged Balls (can use steel HPI instead...much cheaper)
2 18mm HPI rod ends
1 Kyosho screw for rod ends
2 Pivot Balls
2 cvd axles
2 HPI Front rs4-3 cvd dogbones (55mm)
2 HPI (A396) plastic steering washers
1 HPI Steering link(mine is graphite..comes from GPM alum steering kit)

Rear Suspension
2 Lower Suspension arms
2 Rear hub carriers
2 Pivot Balls
2 cvd axles
2 HPI FRONT rs4-3 cvd dogbones (55mm)
2 HPI (A396) plastic steering washers

Both front/rear lower suspension holes need to be drilled with
1/8 drill bit to fit rs4-3 lower hub carriers. Also you need to dremel
away the inner "C" part of the suspension arm that fits into the rs4-3 hub carrier. Just dremel away the inside if suspension arm. Very easy as there are lines to follow. Need to install HPI plastic steering washers so the arms fit tightly. File away washers and/or inside suspenion arms to make arme move freely. If you are really serious about racing use only the carbon parts from NTC3 and titanium pivotballs. I also use Kyosho 5.8mm short titanium flanged balls in all the linkages for the steering along with HPI m3 nuts. Not really needed but i went all out. Definitely can add pivot ball suspension to rs4-3 for less than $100. The front dogbones should longer than 55mm (approx 57-60mm). I am going to try the associated B3 cvd dogbones and see how they fit. Also need to install rear graphite shock tower on rear of axle gearbox to allow full up/down movement of rear suspension arms.
Is it worth it?...well with 3 degrees of rear toe and super solid steering, the rs4-3 really corners on a dime...

[rs4lola]

I use this conversion (http://kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#metal) on my NMT and my RS4 3. I really like these brakes a lot and they do offer a great increase in perfromance. Its a really simple mod too, and even though it shows it for the NMT you can do it for the RS4 3 also. Also, a good servo can help your brakes too. I like the Hitec 645MG servo, and its not too pricy either.I have used the Kyosho MP6 brakes with the rs4-3 and they work fantastic (if setup properly!!!). I JB welded the Kyosho extra hard brake linings (upgraded pads to MP6 kit) and they have yet to really fade or glaze. If they can stop an 8 pound buggy in dirt, then stopping a 4 pound nitro car on foams should be no problem. I just upgraded my brake disk to a 3Racing machined disk for (who else??) Kyosho V-One RRR.
Its thicker and has more slits to help ventilate heat better. Should also last longer aswell and is cheaper than the full MP6 kit. Highly recommend it as it allows you to use a cheap throttle servo and put that money saved towards a high speed digital servo for you steering!!!
Anyone installed aluminum steering from HotBodies? Just installed mine but had a real hard time attaching the links for the steering hubs to the alum steering arms. These holes do not seem to fit the 3mm screws???

[MT2 owns you]

I have used the Kyosho MP6 brakes with the rs4-3 and they work fantastic (if setup properly!!!). I JB welded the Kyosho extra hard brake linings (upgraded pads to MP6 kit) and they have yet to really fade or glaze. If they can stop an 8 pound buggy in dirt, then stopping a 4 pound nitro car on foams should be no problem. I just upgraded my brake disk to a 3Racing machined disk for (who else??) Kyosho V-One RRR.
Its thicker and has more slits to help ventilate heat better. Should also last longer aswell and is cheaper than the full MP6 kit. Highly recommend it as it allows you to use a cheap throttle servo and put that money saved towards a high speed digital servo for you steering!!!
Anyone installed aluminum steering from HotBodies? Just installed mine but had a real hard time attaching the links for the steering hubs to the alum steering arms. These holes do not seem to fit the 3mm screws???
ball studs or actual screws? could you give us a link to what you used? you prolly already know this but the ball studs dont have the same thread as the screws we use which i think has an m3 thread. buuuttt....you may already know this too but the purple aluminum ball studs used for shocks DO seem to have an m3 thread :), although they are a bit bigger than the black ball studs so im thinking there might be a chance your steering will be a little stiff...it might loosen up though..if the ball end doesnt break but i doubt it will...

[willo123]

Lo all, I'm new here. Heres my RS4:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42/will_1808/RS4/RS4_3.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42/will_1808/RS4/RS4_1.jpg

[josh222]

looks nice, you can use the small wg plate if you flip it around

[Zoo Tv]

looks nice, you can use the small wg plate if you flip it around

What you mean there Josh? On the battery holder?

Willo123, where did you mount your pick up point for the Venom Speed Meter? Can you show us a photo?

Cheers,

[willo123]

What you mean there Josh? On the battery holder?

Willo123, where did you mount your pick up point for the Venom Speed Meter? Can you show us a photo?

Cheers,

Its the venom failsafe not speed meter.

Yeah josh I wanted to do that but I need the part numbers for the brackets which you use to pivot the plate on. Need supertoasts advice on that. Instead I've used strong velcro pads on the chassis-battery pack and battery pack-receiver.

Thanks for the comments.

[josh222]

here is a pic that is about 2 years old of my Type SS

[gangstar]

It moves when idling. BTW, before, i installed the new chassis, i started the car and there weren't any problems with keeping the wheels stopped and the gears unroated. Just when I slapped everything on the chassis was when it idle'd bad.

Thanks zoo tv. BTW, how do i correct the problem with the flywheel engagement?

mine used to do that but it was becuase the acceleration servo was set wrong...

[Zoo Tv]

Set wrong on the controller was the problem I was having. Idling for a bit then slightly accelerating making the car move forward. Reset all settings and started again with trims and all good. Some functions only required for track. The problem I had specifically was that (for track conditions) the controller would slightly advance the throttle servo to take up any slack in the linkage meaning after braking the car's throttle response had less lag - in theory. Pain in the arse.

BTW, anyone have an ABS function on their controller? How do you find it?

[willo123]

BTW, anyone have an ABS function on their controller? How do you find it?

ABS is dependent on the type of RC transmitter/receiver kit you own. It works by sending pulses of electricity to the break servo instead of just all in one go which cause's it to lock. You can do it yourself by just 'dabbing' the breaks instead of hitting them on in one action.

[Zoo Tv]

No, I knew that as I have it and used it, then disabled it. I was asking if anyone else has used it, how effective did they find it whilst driving?

[Jetskiboy77]

When I was looking into upgrading the brakes on my new NMT that I converted to a NMT2 I was looking for a cheaper replacement then the MP-6 brakes. I was looking through Tower's parts with MT2 Owns you and we found some nice parts. I ordered the R40 brakes (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXFKD0&P=K) and these brake discs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCVW3&P=7) from Ofna. The fit is perfect, only a spacer is needed so the brake cam can fully reach the pads and plates. Not sure if everyone knew this, just wanted to bring this to everyones attention, cause its a good, cheap way for good brakes.

[Zoo Tv]

Nice idea their Jetskiboy77. Any pics of this conversion installed?

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks Zoo. As for right now, no. The truck is sitting in about 900 pieces on the desk in my room. Im still awaiting the titanium parts to come, untill then I cant run the truck. Ive ran into a few stupid problems trying to convert my basically stock NMT that I built from my spare parts to a NMT2. I said I wasnt gonna touch it, and now 600$ later its still on my desk. Once I get the truck together ill take pics of the brakes installed, which will hopefull be soon.

[Zoo Tv]

So will the brakes fit the RS4 3?

[Jetskiboy77]

Of course they will.

[josh222]

ya, other than suspension the nitro mt and the rs4 3 are almost the same

[racer234]

Hey guys I'm looking for some quick info on what parts I need to swap motors. Right now I have a stock RS4 3 RTR (w/ the .15 FE). The only mod is the 2-speed. I'd like to put in a .18 CV-RX. So far this is the parts I think I'll need: (the part numbers are from tower hobbies)

Heavy Duty Pinion/Ring Gears for the Diffs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=HPIC6329&P=7)

Exhaust Gaskets (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=HPIG0875&P=7)

Washers for behind the collet (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=HPIC1699&P=7)

I thought I heard I needed this flywheel since the stock one is cast; it comes with a collet too (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTA6&P=7)

I'll also be picking up some screws for the motor mounts since mine are worn, but I know what I need there. Of course I'll also be getting the motor, with a threaded crank and a rotary carb. If you guys could double check those links and reassure me those are the right parts I'd appreciate it a lot. Thanks again.

[josh222]

get a nice engine mount aswell, do you have you fe bolted on by its block or by mounts?

[Jetskiboy77]

When I put in the OS .18 your talking about into my NMT, (which is basically the same as the RS4 3 in this situation) all I used were the engine mounts out of my Type SS, which can be found here. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLR3&P=7) These mounts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN373&P=ML) will also work. And the stock flywheel will work I think, and im pretty sure the one you linked to will work also. If you want a link to the aftermarket flywheel I used then I will get it for you, but im not sure if it was discontinued or not.

[racer234]

Hey, I totally forgot about that. Luckily I've already got the engine mounts so I won't be needing to upgrade them. Thanks for catching that though.

[racer234]

One more thing; do you guys think the hardened diff gears are necessary?

[ron1431]

they are necessary with the .18 in about 5 tanks of running hard my diffs where chewed up.

[Jetskiboy77]

I run the OS. 18 in my off road NMT with the same stock gear diffs and they still look new even though theyre 3 years old and heavily abused now. I say theyre not really needed, but some peoples diffs last for a while and some dont, so its up to you.

[racer234]

Hey guys; I'm looking for some more advice. Now I'd like to go with an .18 CV-R and a starter box. So far my shopping list looks like this:

Exhaust Gaskets
HPI Washers
.18 CV-R

I still plan on using this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTA6&P=7) flywheel; it is the stock one that comes with the Evo RTR, and the MT2. Can anyone verify that it will work on the OS motor and that it will work with a starterbox? Thanks again for the help.

[M3EVOlution]

HELP!!! Problem with rotostart!

When I try to start my car, the rotostart doesn't crank like when it was new. It's as if the gears inside mabe slipping and no longer making the flywheel move. Can anyone tell me what's wrong? BTW, I can after 10 minutes of trying to start the car when i'm lucky)

BTW, after I run the car for a while I can start the car with the rotostart and it would bite easily.


Also, I acciudentally forgot to put my air filter on when I drove the car at high speeds for about 3 minutes. I looked into the carb and it was kind of dirty, so i just cleaned the car with a q trip. Is this major damage to my car? How long do you think my engine would last if losts of dust came in?
Thanks!

[ron1431]

dirt in your engine is bad it will kill the commpresion. is there any resistance when u turn the flywheel .did the rotostart problem happen after u ran the car without the filter?

[M3EVOlution]

There is resistance right after I give the rotostart a short busrt, only in the beginning and in the end. BTW, this was going on before i didn't use the filter.

[C0NTENDER]

Just in case you don't know, the HPI challenge is going on the weekend of Aug 13,14, so if you want to have two fun days of racing and your in driving distance of Deleware, and have the time, you should come out. It's not too late to send in an entry form. These events normally get 200 entries and it's just a fun weekend of racing with prizes. There is a 200 entry limit, so if your number 201 you might not get in. So if you plan on coming, get your entry in quick.

[robbmac]

I'm looking for any suggestions on what paints to mix to get this orange color. I saw this truck at a Dodge lot and the color is nice. It's a Dodge Ram 1500 Daytona and Dodge calls the color "Go! Man Go!" That's obviously not helpful, but I'm doing a Ford GT body and I want it that color with black stripes. Any ideas?

http://images.automotive.com/cob/factory_automotive/images/features/auto_shows/2005_LAAS/2005_Dodge_Ram_1500%20Daytona_front.jpg

[Edit Fixed Link]

[Jetskiboy77]

I hae no idea how to make that color, you might be able to buy it somewhere, but I just wanted to say that its a damn nice color and get pics when its done if you do it.

[Jetskiboy77]

What about something like this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCY30&P=0)? Are you looking for cans though, or are you using an air brush?

[robbmac]

What about something like this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCY30&P=0)? Are you looking for cans though, or are you using an air brush?

I'm thinking this would have to be custom mixed, and was looking more for ideas on what colors to buy to try and mix something as close as possible. I have airbrush capabilities.

[M3EVOlution]

any input on my post on rotostart?

[josh222]

check the one way bearing

[josh222]

i have a little parts list made up for parts i am going to get over the next few weeks :D and then it is track time and i will have the only Type SS there :D

Hb Chassi
HB Centax
HB Centax mounts
HB front CVD's
HB Rear CVD's
HB front Center CVD
HB Rear Center CVD
HPI Rear WG shock tower
HPI Composite threaded shocks
HPI Ti Turnbuckles
Stainless hinge pins and Brace
Steel brake
Carbon Graphite upright and A-arms

[robbmac]

I just built my rs4 3 18ss kit, but one of my shock shafts was not threaded on the end! I need to find a replacement today but fear that my LHS may not have the HPI part. Can I use a shaft buy another manufacturer if this is the case? Naturally it have to be the same length and have groves for the e-clips. Speaking of e-clips is there an easy way to remove them.

I'm highly P-O'ed about this cause it's the weekend and I was planning on running today at some point, I don't want to buy new shocks right away, but planned to eventually to upgrade the plastics. Right now I just want a shaft to get me on the road.

Thanks all.

[Update]
After calling around, no one in the area has this part in stock, so at best I wouldn't be able to get one until late next week! So I would really apprecaite any substitute suggestions you all may have at this point.

[2nd Update]
Okay I finally found one at a Hobbytown USA in Oak Park, IL. I have to drive 20 minutes to pick it up, but won't be able to do so til in the morning. So thanks to all who read the post even if you didn't have an answer. I'm still interested in onther manufacturer shock compatibility with the RS4 if you know anything.

[M3EVOlution]

i have a little parts list made up for parts i am going to get over the next few weeks :D and then it is track time and i will have the only Type SS there :D

Hb Chassi
HB Centax
HB Centax mounts
HB front CVD's
HB Rear CVD's
HB front Center CVD
HB Rear Center CVD
HPI Rear WG shock tower
HPI Composite threaded shocks
HPI Ti Turnbuckles
Stainless hinge pins and Brace
Steel brake
Carbon Graphite upright and A-arms

I was told by a friend that i should clean it. So I just open up the backplate and take this out?

[tfhughes]

Hey Guys,

I just bought an HPI RS4 3 RTR off ebay for $199 Canadian. It is brand new still factory sealed in the box. I'm just wondering what is the first upgrade that i should consider...Racing clutch maybe? 2-Speed? Let me know what ya think. Thanks for any tips/acvice in advance. I have a JR XR3 to install in it so i don't need a better radio (Have the Z590mg steering servo too)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5990162413&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

[josh222]

engine and exhaust are the top priority, do you live in canada?

[Jetskiboy77]

I would say engine, exhaust, 2 speed, racing clutch, and also the carbon fiber parts.

[tfhughes]

Yup, i live in Canada...Nova Scotia to be exact. What engine/pipe combo is recommened? I'll run the 15fe till it blows though....lol. I don't wanna spend a fortune on this car because i live in the country and will only drive the car 4 or 5 times this summer. I also have 2 Duratrax Axis's, a nitro Rush, a nitro Rush Evo and an Associated RC10GT. I just wanted to give on-road a try to see if i liked it or not.

[josh222]

alright. I have a lot of family in Cape Breton near sydney :)

[Zoo Tv]

alright. I have a lot of family in Cape Breton near sydney :)


Sydney Australia?!!!! Thats where I am!

Anyone recommend a pipe for the 18ss engine?

[M3EVOlution]

Quick question!!!

I was driving my car and later noticed that the heat sink has a slight chip on the top. What are the disadvantages of having this chipped? Thanks for your valuable time everyone!

[M3EVOlution]

Also The "allen screw" on top of my A arm came off. Does anyone know where I can get one?

PS: What size fuel tubing should I buy for my EVO? :confused:

[MT2 owns you]

what do you mean on top of your a arm?? on the C hub? is it this one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM655&P=ML ?

i think its medium size you buy but i dont know for sure

[Jetskiboy77]

Sydney Australia?!!!! Thats where I am!

Anyone recommend a pipe for the 18ss engine?

Take a look at the THS pipe and the RD Logics pipe. I have both of them and theyre pretty nice.

[Zoo Tv]

Take a look at the THS pipe and the RD Logics pipe. I have both of them and theyre pretty nice.

Thanks for that. Are they on Tower Hobbies or am I blind?

[M3EVOlution]

oh yes....On top off the C hub. Thanks for that. But can anyone confirm which fuel tube to get?

[MT2 owns you]

Thanks for that. Are they on Tower Hobbies or am I blind?
the ths one is one towerhobbies http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=ML the rd is not though

m3-no problem

[josh222]

i have a 250USD budget for hop ups what to get after what is on my list

[Zoo Tv]

Don't understand Josh.... Please explain?

BTW, who has done the NTC3 suspension conversion? Any chance of some more detailed photos?

[josh222]

i have 250usd to psend on hop ups is there any thing i should add to my list that i posted

[josh222]

well i am puting cd3 suspension on my ss, i have the are mounted but they still need work, i need the up rights and pivot ball plus the axles

[M3EVOlution]

Please help!!

I'm transferring everything from my oldchassis to my new chassis and found out that my screws under the engine were really scraped(from how low the car was.) Well I tried to remove the screwq but no the screw pattern turned round. Any suggestions on how to drill it out weithout destroying the engine?

thanks :)

[MT2 owns you]

hey guys what do you think of these for my touring car (and a few are for my rally car)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXM945&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXM972&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXM521&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXCYT0&P=K <x2 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXDHK7&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXDHK8&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXVK16&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=HPIC2469&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=HPIC2462&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXEKJ8&P=K http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXM852&P=K

also, is there anything not in there that you guys think i should get? thanks!

[MT2 owns you]

Please help!!

I'm transferring everything from my oldchassis to my new chassis and found out that my screws under the engine were really scraped(from how low the car was.) Well I tried to remove the screwq but no the screw pattern turned round. Any suggestions on how to drill it out weithout destroying the engine?

thanks :)
you mean the heads were scraped off so that they were the equivalent of stripped? well, when i had to take mine off i took a really small drill (becareful if you do this) and drilled off the little metal shavings covering the slots. oh, WEAR EYE GLASSES! <trust me on that one, the little shavings fly off really fast. OR, you could drill off the heads of the screws, take the mounts off and get new mounts and leave the old screws (or whats left) in the old mounts.

[M3EVOlution]

do you have a pic of the mounts on the engine. Sorry if i'm a newb asking this question but mu engine seems to be one piece. No mount. Or is the mount attached to my HPI T15 engine permanently?

[MT2 owns you]

OOOHHH man, i completely forgot about that, sorry! ok, since i happen to have a screw stuck in my mount due to my overtightening and hpi not threading it enough, i know this. find a drill that will slide into the mount hole with no trouble, or very very little! drill the screws out, because your mounts are your crank case, be careful not to go too far. the remains of the screws should come out easily, and then, just buy 4 new screws. i hope that works, because it has to work for me too! oh, once your done, you will probably have to re-tap the holes.

[M3EVOlution]

So just drill the top of the screw into the engine?

[MT2 owns you]

um...hmm..how to better explain it...drill the head off (in my case it snapped off :mad: ) so that will leave you with just the threads in the engine. get a drill that is just a tiny bit smaller than the screw, it should be able to slide into a hole (or one like it, if you have a graphite upper deck, the aluminum posts you use to attatch it to the chassis should be the same). drill the remains of the screws out with that drill. then retap the holes if you need to.

[M3EVOlution]

oh, i see. but what do you mean by retap the holes???

[MT2 owns you]

re thread them. im pretty sure thread taps are pretty cheap, like 10$, but i might be wrong.

[Jetskiboy77]

After you drill off the head of the screw, see if you can grab the threads that are sticking out of the mount when you take the engine off the chassis. Thats the best and easiest way. Way my screw stripped, I drilled the head off, but the thread at the top cracked so I couldnt grab it with plyers. So I had to drill out the screw and retap it. Try to grab the threads sticking out first tho if you can.

[MT2 owns you]

oh, i just realized something, my screw might just vibrate out, since i left it in and never put locktite on it because i hadnt don the mesh yet. i hope it will. (i also hope i got my mesh good...its a pain in the *** to mesh a two speed...the engine doesnt go back far enough..)

[M3EVOlution]

If the screw doesn't come out from the engine and loses thread I would have to retap it.

But can I use hpi engine mounts?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN373&P=ML

But how would these mount on the chassis. I see some holes but they are too big but am I supposed to screw it there? Won't the engine move if screwed there?

[MT2 owns you]

yes, i think you can use them, there should be a tab on both sides of the crank case with 2 holes in them. to use those holes, you simply torque the screws down so it doesnt move and theyre like that so you can adjust gear mesh.

[M3EVOlution]

what do you mean by gear mesh. Will this basically change my gearing? Well anyways, I have 2 screwstaken off of the engine successfully. So maybe I'll screw these onto the new chassis so the stock(gear meshing) is still the same and I'll add the mounts for extra support. Would this be okay?

[MT2 owns you]

gear mesh...hum....like if you have a good gear mesh, which will make your spur last longer, the gears will be perfect...like...the teeth go all the way into the grooves but no too tight so that it puts more strain on everything...very hard to explain....as for the mount question, seems like a good idea, i cant think of any reason why it wouldnt work.

[M3EVOlution]

UPDATE....

WEll my dad was able to put a line pattern on the heads and simply unscrewed them. Not bad at all. First he did the screw back when I had a steering problem and now when my engine screws were stripped. Thanks for all suggestions!

[Jetskiboy77]

Glas to hear you got that sorted out, I hate when one of my screws being messed up prevents me from running the car.

[M3EVOlution]

Hi....Has anyone here with an rs4 3 race a strock rtr Team Associated tc4? Can anyone give me details on how these cars compare to eachother?

Well obviously it's electric vs. nitro touring but is it true that these cars have balls? Does the tc4 outhandle the rs4 3? Also how much faster is the rs4 3 is acceleration if by any means is.


Thanks

[josh222]

well the tc4 will creme it in low end take off but nitros have progressive power bands and the higher rpms goes the more power and it is much faster speed wise stock cars here, the electrics have all there power at first and then it drops as rpms go up.. i don't know about the handling but it is all about set up

[josh222]

I have all the CD3/LD3 arms on the car.. the upper arms are giving me a little troube because i didn't get them prefectly cut yet and they don't sit right but i am making the cut in it larger to get them to fit but this will let there be side to side play so i am still going to use my upper brace from before to strenghten the front tp arm set up and so there won't be any play in it. I am ordering some pivot balls and uprights on wednesday so i will have more doen soon. The only real snag so far is witht he front shocks, i have to move them out enough to clear the upper arm which shouldn't be to hard.

[ron1431]

has anyone else had this problem my diff is always leaking and i have to keep changing the oil almost every run. also i noticed that there is only a spring in the front diff and not in the back

[aa240sx]

has anyone else had this problem my diff is always leaking and i have to keep changing the oil almost every run. also i noticed that there is only a spring in the front diff and not in the back

Hello. Just curious, if I decided to switch from my stock engine in my RS4 3 SS, which is a 12R SS pull-start to a 12R SC non-pullstart, what would I need as far as conversion items.

Right now, I am assuming if I get this engine, I would need either a bumpstart system, or rotostart.

Also, I believe the SC in 12R SC stands for slidecarb, but what does SS stand for?

Is there a performance difference in these engines?

thanks all!

[Silent Night]

I'm pretty sure they are the same engines with just a different carb.. So there wouldn't be a performance difference..

[MT2 owns you]

has anyone else had this problem my diff is always leaking and i have to keep changing the oil almost every run. also i noticed that there is only a spring in the front diff and not in the back
the spring is fine, dont worry about it its supposed to be like that. the leaking thing, i have (or had, i dunno) that problem with one of my mt2 diffs. is it around the drive cup holes? um, just try changing your diff case, hopefully itll fix it. probably there might be a nub from when it was cut off the tree and its not letting the diff close enough. just a thought.

silent, if theyre different carbs, wouldnt there be a difference? slide carbs are smoother right?

[ron1431]

alright thank mt2 im going to check it out.

[Jetskiboy77]

the spring is fine, dont worry about it its supposed to be like that. the leaking thing, i have (or had, i dunno) that problem with one of my mt2 diffs. is it around the drive cup holes? um, just try changing your diff case, hopefully itll fix it. probably there might be a nub from when it was cut off the tree and its not letting the diff close enough. just a thought.

silent, if theyre different carbs, wouldnt there be a difference? slide carbs are smoother right?

There would be a slight increase in performance. With the loss of a pullstart and the addition of a better carb, it would be only a tiny bit better, but most likely unnoticable to most people.

[MT2 owns you]

There would be a slight increase in performance. With the loss of a pullstart and the addition of a better carb, it would be only a tiny bit better, but most likely unnoticable to most people.
oohh ok. i guess i was sorta right then.

[josh222]

i got my super chassi from kronic today and it is sweet, i also got a motor saver, threaded shocks and a racing clutch plus fresh fuel :D

[Zoo Tv]

i got my super chassi from kronic today and it is sweet, i also got a motor saver, threaded shocks and a racing clutch plus fresh fuel :D

and the difference in performance is.....????????

[josh222]

here are some pics of my car :D

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Yw68666.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Jp32558.jpg

[M3EVOlution]

Looks real clean!!!

BTW, has anyone had trouble putting the antenna plastic around the wire? I would like to put mine on that HPI gave but it was real tight to fit it on the wire so now I'm using the yellow one from my Nikko truck.

[josh222]

thanks, mine fits fine

[M3EVOlution]

Weird, mines real tight.

Also, I bought some foam tires/wheels and they are a bit to small in diameter compared to the regular 26mm stock wheel and tires that came with the car. The problem is that my car is 1 mm off the ground. Can anyone tell me what I can do to raise it a bit? Adjusting springs/ suspension?????

[Jetskiboy77]

Looks really good Josh, I like the body and the new mods.

[Silent Night]

Weird, mines real tight.

Also, I bought some foam tires/wheels and they are a bit to small in diameter compared to the regular 26mm stock wheel and tires that came with the car. The problem is that my car is 1 mm off the ground. Can anyone tell me what I can do to raise it a bit? Adjusting springs/ suspension?????

You can try using some shock clips or adjusting the position of the the shocks..

[MT2 owns you]

Looks real clean!!!

BTW, has anyone had trouble putting the antenna plastic around the wire? I would like to put mine on that HPI gave but it was real tight to fit it on the wire so now I'm using the yellow one from my Nikko truck.
its just some antennaes. i have a purple one that slips on easily , i also had a pink one that went on pretty good until i bent it a few times...just buy a few and see how it works.

josh-looks nice, really clean too

[Zoo Tv]

here are some pics of my car :D

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Yw68666.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Jp32558.jpg

Hi Josh. Is that a Venom Speed Meter? How / where you have the magnet installed if it is a VSM as mine has come off twice.

[Jetskiboy77]

I think thats the Venom Failsafe, not the Speed Meter, but I may be incorrect.

[Zoo Tv]

Actually, your right Jetski. Asked Josh that question before.

BTW, does anyone have a mod to fix the RS4 3's traditional slop in the steering?

ANd Josh, are those pics with the LD3 parts?

[josh222]

it is a venom fail safe

[ron1431]

josh what kind of shocks are those.

[MT2 owns you]

im pretty sure those are hpi composite threaded shocks http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBF2&P=7

[Silent Night]

yup they are.. you can get them cheaper on rcboys

[KronicRacer]

and you can also get the r40 composite shocks for the car.(just another name if youre searching for them) basically whichever you can find cheaper if you dont want to go the aluminum route.

[trw]

helllo again everyone :D

since its getting cooler now I decided to pull out the RS4 3 again and dust it off, unsurprisingly it fired right up first couple of pulls after sitting for over 4 months (or so it seemed, but a long time rather) then stripped it down and cleaned it all up, rebuilt shocks, re-lubbed diffs, cleaned up the engine exhaust and fuel tank, cleaned all the bearings.

sooo, whats new to the rs4 3s? any new setups that enhance the rs4 3 to that "all new level of high adrenaline racing"? I left before I heard much or the end of the G4 setup deal, hows that going? and anyone figure out a way to make the swaybars more effective?

also my car needs new foams badly, are the HPI E 40s a good set?

[M3EVOlution]

Josh are those zip ties on your fule tank? How did you put them on and are they functioanl?

[MT2 owns you]

Josh are those zip ties on your fule tank? How did you put them on and are they functioanl?
yes, you need 2 zip ties and a piece of fuel tubing. put a zip tie on the fuel tank lid. then put the fuel tubing on the remaining part of the ziptie. then put the other ziptie on to keep the fuel tubing on and trim the rest of it off.

[F150RTR]

hello everyone, I disappeared for a while but iam back know.
My question is iam interested in the HPI Pantera body and also the vintage rims and tire combonation that goes with it. I want the 26mm tires in front and the 31mm in back.

For the 31mm will they fit on a hpi rs4 3 rtr or will i need spacer for that.
if you do suggest spacer a link to a website or a part number would be very helpful.

thank you

[Zoo Tv]

hello everyone, I disappeared for a while but iam back know.
My question is iam interested in the HPI Pantera body and also the vintage rims and tire combonation that goes with it. I want the 26mm tires in front and the 31mm in back.

For the 31mm will they fit on a hpi rs4 3 rtr or will i need spacer for that.
if you do suggest spacer a link to a website or a part number would be very helpful.

thank you

The problem (I am also having with my 18SS) is that the wheel/tyre will hit the battery compartment. The carbon upper deck will allow more clearance. That is the only concern.

[rikcarl]

can somebody help me? i'm new to this hobby and this website. my rs4 evo shuts down if i apply full throttle. any suggestions on what's causing this? thanks.

[Zoo Tv]

High speed needle on carb probably too lean. Read the instructions for how to adjust. (also on HPI's website.)

[tfhughes]

Put your needles back to the factory settings (the settings will be in your manual) and start your tuning all over again. Remember to only adjust the needles in very small amounts. Hope this helps, if not let us know and we'll try something else.

[texasseville]

RS4 3 SS

Hi what diff oil should I use in my rear and front differentials?

ive seen some people say 1K rear and 3K front (thin)

but ive also seen people put 30K in the front and 50K in the rear (thick)

thats a huge difference in consistency??

I would just grease it up, but I noticed, like alot of people have too that when I took my diffs apart there was not alot of grease left on the gears but it was all over the inside plastic diff housing...so I want to add silicone oil that way the gears are always protected

any ideas on what weight to use for front and rear??

1 more question, I have a rossi .12 black pixi engine and I was looking everywhere for a backplate that I can use a rotostart with, do they make a backplate for that engine? Im tired of hauling around that big starter box

Thanks for any help!!

[rikcarl]

High speed needle on carb probably too lean. Read the instructions for how to adjust. (also on HPI's website.)

Thanks. I'll go try that.

[rikcarl]

Put your needles back to the factory settings (the settings will be in your manual) and start your tuning all over again. Remember to only adjust the needles in very small amounts. Hope this helps, if not let us know and we'll try something else.

Thanks. I'll go try that.

[josh222]

RS4 3 SS

Hi what diff oil should I use in my rear and front differentials?

ive seen some people say 1K rear and 3K front (thin)

but ive also seen people put 30K in the front and 50K in the rear (thick)

thats a huge difference in consistency??

I would just grease it up, but I noticed, like alot of people have too that when I took my diffs apart there was not alot of grease left on the gears but it was all over the inside plastic diff housing...so I want to add silicone oil that way the gears are always protected

any ideas on what weight to use for front and rear??

1 more question, I have a rossi .12 black pixi engine and I was looking everywhere for a backplate that I can use a rotostart with, do they make a backplate for that engine? Im tired of hauling around that big starter box

Thanks for any help!!
the Rs4 3 doesn't have sealed diffs and oil won't work in them but hpi makes diff tuning springs of different stiffnesses to act like oil
HPI#72215

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZT47&P=7

[josh222]

You won't find anything for your engine, it is an italian racing engine not a sport engine so only starter box for you, it's not that hard to carry because i have had one for like over a year

[josh222]

Josh are those zip ties on your fule tank? How did you put them on and are they functioanl?

like MT2 said, there used to make refueling easy and faster for when your at the track

[josh222]

helllo again everyone :D

since its getting cooler now I decided to pull out the RS4 3 again and dust it off, unsurprisingly it fired right up first couple of pulls after sitting for over 4 months (or so it seemed, but a long time rather) then stripped it down and cleaned it all up, rebuilt shocks, re-lubbed diffs, cleaned up the engine exhaust and fuel tank, cleaned all the bearings.

sooo, whats new to the rs4 3s? any new setups that enhance the rs4 3 to that "all new level of high adrenaline racing"? I left before I heard much or the end of the G4 setup deal, hows that going? and anyone figure out a way to make the swaybars more effective?

also my car needs new foams badly, are the HPI E 40s a good set?

RS4 lola put cd3 suspension on his car and a vantage pipe

[josh222]

and TRW here is my Type SS

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Jp32558.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Yw68666.jpg

[gangstar]

hi,

was just wondering if any1 knws where to get this part (HPI 72148b or 72148 - i think they're the same thing).

i lost it today while cleaning the gears.

thanks
gangstar

[gangstar]

also, i want to get a failsafe for my car, does anybody know some good ones that aren't too expensive? and how does the failsafe work exactly? what do you connect it to, and do you need any other things to get it working?

thanks
gangstar

[MT2 owns you]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=72148+&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go that the part you need?