HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[josh222]

i have the venom micro fail safe and it works great

[texasseville]

You won't find anything for your engine, it is an italian racing engine not a sport engine so only starter box for you, it's not that hard to carry because i have had one for like over a year

I dont think its hard to carry the starter box just a pain to me anyway, I was hoping maybe someone custom made a backplate..I'd much rather carry a drill and dogbone or the rotostart that I could carry in my pocket as apposed to a big bulky starter box.... ive had my starter box for going on 3 years and its a pain to me, different strokes for different folks I guess

as far as the diffs i dont know about your diffs, but mine are sealed with big o-rings, I put 30K weight in them 2 days ago front and rear and NO leaks yet...but 30K it semi-thick its not like a oil, I see people saying they use 1K and 3K > YES I could see that leaking out because its so thin but so far so good for me : )



I forgot to add I have the heavy duty gears in my diff NOT the standard ones that came w/ the ss kit

[texasseville]

also I wanted to say what a GREAT guy Wolfgang is (wolfpack radicals)...I just got some new motor mounts for my .12 rossi engine and they are AWESOME, much thicker than stock alum ones, they are adjustable with 7 different settings and they are lower for a lower center of gravity, cant GET ANYTHING BETTER..THIS GUY IS GREAT!!!!

I bought the rs4 3 .21 wolfpack conversion about 2 years ago and WOOOW thats all I can say, Im using a .21 RB concepts C5 engine and my rs4 3 HAULS AZZZZZZ LOL!!

just wanted to say THANKS WOLFGANG!!!

[texasseville]

for a failsafe I have the venom one and the ofna...TO ME THE OFNA is better because its about the size of a penny


GET IT, ITS THE BEST $20 bucks spent...

[josh222]

also your engine crankshaft isn't made for a pull starter so it doesn't have the nub or whole for spring and pin

[texasseville]

pull starter?...I never said I wanted to put a pull starter on my engine....thats the worse thing EVER LOL, ive busted my knuckles enough time messing with those, then the cord comes out and doesnt go back in... I hated those things : ) !!!!

[josh222]

but you still need the pull start back plate and starter shaft to be able to use a tiger drive or rotostart

[texasseville]

oh I see what you mean, Im not that familar w/ the rotostarts

I use to take the backplate off anyway when I had my pullstart hpi engine and just used a socket to start it : ), man I hated those pullstarts!!


that suckz then.....oh well, starter box it is : )

thanks for the help Josh222!!

[trw]

heh, anyone who is stuck with a pullstart will know good enough (or rather its good advice) to run either an OS pullstart, or an Epic pullstart.

those 2 brands are very dependable pullstarts, as I use them daily in my TNX and RS4 3 (I had to fit an Epic pullstart to my OS 18 CVRX cause the OS pullstart was too wide to fit with mount spacers on) I have never broken an OS or Epic pullstart, but I have seen HPI, Picco etc.. pullstarts go.

so if you must use a pullstart, opt for OS or Epic.

now onto my issue, my OS 18 CVRX uses a freaking huge air filter and its rubs my new NSX body :( and I cant lower it anymore and because of this, I have to raise the rear on the body posts and it looks goofy.

anyone know a solution that doesnt include cutting up the roof? and just for the record, the mount spacers are required if I want my gears to mesh.

thanks

http://www.rogue4x4.com/advert/100_2308.jpg
http://www.rogue4x4.com/advert/100_2312.jpg

[MT2 owns you]

i dont know how to lower the air filter other than maybe a new hose, which i wouldnt know where to get, but maybe you could make some sort of custom roof scoop.

[texasseville]

get a different airfilter, OR buy different size hoses for the airfilter if you can change the hose on your airfilter, I dont know what airfilter you have but my old o.s. came w/a o.s. filter where the hose was molded into the filter, so I just bought a different filter,try a motosaver filter, you can use different hoses w/ those

i bought a pack of 11mm hose fittings and they came with 60', 45' and straight tube so you can make your own fittings, just pick which one you want, and cut it to size

just a thought??

[texasseville]

heres a link to show you what I mean about the different fittings::

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAP5&P=7

[texasseville]

i have a .12 rossi pixi outlaw and I love it...

well a friend of mine is selling me his .12 rossi pixi (not outlaw) for $50 bucks but it needs a new crankshaft, he looked everywhere but cant find one thats why im getting it so cheap : )

does anyone know where to get a threaded crankshaft at for a rossi engine?

I checked rossi website but nothing???


thanks for any help!

[josh222]

you have to be here a long time before you can change it, it changes after so many posts and the onroad fourm is here to list the vechile fourms because we have a nitro fourm just for nitro's

[texasseville]

yeah i tied to post in the nitro forum but it wouldnt let me...it says I can only reply to post??

oh well, i have a rs4 3 anyway so i dont really care about the other forums I was just trying to post my engine crankshaft question there...hey josh222 do you know where to get a rossi crankshaft from??

[josh222]

try ebay.. i saw some .21 cranks there so maybe you will find what you need

[texasseville]

yeah I looked allready nothing, i saw the .21 piston and crankshafts but NONE for the .12....i'll have to keep checking I guess

man this makes me want to get a o.s. engine WAY more parts available!!! i just hope my rossi i have now doesnt brake down anytime soon : )

thanks again man!!!

[josh222]

well the new .12TZ would blow you current engine away :rolleyes: RCCA tested the 3-port
1.4HP and 64OZ-IN of TORQUE the most ever from a 12 and it had a perfect power curve andthis was with 2 head shims :eek:

[trw]

4 HORSEPOWER!>!>#>@$@#$<$#<@<E<S<DSV<<VD<D<WE$ 4 HORSEPOWER??????!?!!?!?!! THAT CANT BE!!!

if the .18 TZ only makes 2.5hp then why does the .12 make 4hp? it just doesnt make sense :confused: dang, thats my next engine.

or did u mean 1.4hp?

[texasseville]

my .12 rossi outlaw is rated 1.4hp

I wouldnt say the os would blow it away....

still maybe that o.s. will be my next engine when i have to rebuild this rossi and I CANT CUZ I CANT FIND ANY PARTS LOL

whats the best price youve seen for that tz engine?

[texasseville]

by the way every tz .18 Ive seen never had more than 1.8hp..unless im missing something

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHLV6&P=7


i'd rather get that .12tz YEAH : ),

[MT2 owns you]

by the way every tz .18 Ive seen never had more than 1.8hp..unless im missing something

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHLV6&P=7
you are. thats the estimated hp. 2.28hp is what RCCA got when they dyno'ed it.

[texasseville]

where can i find about other engines that were dynoed by rcca

do you know the website shows different stats??

why is it the .18 is faster than the .12 but the .18 is alot less money than the .12???

since its proven the .18 is faster why wouldnt that be more $$$

[trw]

I guess because more R&D had to go into it to keep it legal but top notch, plus it is newer then the .18, who knows

I finished the final touches to my new body today, my RS4 3 RE got a whole new identity today:

I fixed the air filter issue, while digging through my junk parts box I stumbled across a 1/8th motorsavers filter with the same OS neck, I guess i put it in there and forgot to get it back out.

http://www.rogue4x4.com/advert/nsx1.jpg
http://www.rogue4x4.com/advert/nsx2.jpg
http://www.rogue4x4.com/advert/nsx3.jpg
http://www.rogue4x4.com/advert/nsx4.jpg

the color is odd, I was expirementing with it and never figured it would come out like this, but I like it.

its like a fruity maroon or starbursty red, or kiwi cherry, or raspberry
anyways, i used several layers of pearl coating and backed it with racing red and got this, whats cool is because of the pearl, it reflects silver in the sunlight.

[texasseville]

hey I like that color!~!!! I like how you made the light buckets silver adds a contrast to the paint scheme NICE!! do you have any leds in the buckets??

i see what you mean about the wheel well was too high before NOW it looks GOOD man!!!

[rayray76]

I have a rs4 rtr 3 with 2 speed tranny and OS 12 cv .. was wondering if the trx 2.5 would fit into my car and if not what canges would i have to make??

[josh222]

it has been out for about 1 year the .12 has only been out like 2 months. the 3-port .12 has 64oz of torque the 18 has 84OZ. the 5-port .12 is even more powerfull than the 3port

[josh222]

I have a rs4 rtr 3 with 2 speed tranny and OS 12 cv .. was wondering if the trx 2.5 would fit into my car and if not what canges would i have to make??


It's not worth it, the trx engine uses a short crank shaft and it will cost a lot for the parts to get it in there. you can get a cvr18 for like 100usd or less and it is more powerful than the trx

[tfhughes]

I have a rs4 rtr 3 with 2 speed tranny and OS 12 cv .. was wondering if the trx 2.5 would fit into my car and if not what canges would i have to make??

The TRX 2.5 is an awesome mill for the RS4 3. It comes in 3 different versions for different applications.

TRX5204 TRX 2.5 engine IPS Shaft w/o Start $189.99
TRX5206 TRX 2.5 Engine Muliti-Shaft w/o Start $189.99
TRX5207 TRX 2.5 Engine w/Recoil $189.99

These prices are in CANADIAN FUNDS and are taken from the Greathobbies website. www.greathobbies.com

I believe that for the RS4 3 you'd need the TRX 2.5 with the Multi-Shaft but don't quote me on that. The TRX 2.5 will make your car go like stink...lol. I am unfamiliar with the OS CVR .18 but at the price of 100USD that josh222 mentioned...the OS .18 would hard to pass on. If you decide to go with the .18 power plant you might have to upgrade your diffs with hardened gears.

You could always contact Wolfgang at www.wolfpackradicals.com and buy the .21 conversion kit for the RS4 and go that way....then you'd DEFINATELY have to go for the hardened diffs gears...lol.

[rayray76]

Im thinking now... its a better idea to fit a OS 12 Tz 3 port... i think it will fit right in but im not sure... I hate to spend all my money on the engine only to find I need to spend the same amount or more to make it fit... anyone tried this yet in a rs4 3..with the 2 speed ..

[trw]

well the .12 is certainly gonna be smaller then the .18 CVRX, and that engine fits in my RS4 3, so I personally see no problem.

[josh222]

aslong as you get the threaded shaft not SG

[Jetskiboy77]

From what ive read, its a wierd engine to mount in, but it can be done.

[josh222]

check you settings in the control panel

[gangstar]

Hi,

im getting a new shell for my HPI Nitro RS4-3 RTR. I'm stuck between whether i shud get the Lamborghini Gallardo or the Lamborghini Murcielago.

Also, i want a silvery blue paintjob. Silver is fine as well, it's jst that im ordering off www.modelsport.co.uk and i cant see the paint colours first-hand. So does anybody know a silver on this site that is good? also, what's the difference Polycarbonate spray paint and normal spray paint?

And finally, can sum1 please tell me how to fit Blue LEDs (for the headlights) onto shells please.

thanks
gangstar

[MT2 owns you]

nevermind :o ... id appreciate it if a mod could delete this post.

[dolphinchamp32]

hey how fast will the stock rs4 3 evo hit? and im only 13yr how do you tune the hi speed needle valve?

[josh222]

if you read your manule you wind how to tune your car, you turn it clockwise to lean and counterclock wise to richen. it should do about 40mph

[Jetskiboy77]

Make sure not to lean it out too much. That can be a huge (and common) mistake on the part of a new person to the hobby.

[gangstar]

hi,

i want to get a new engine to upgrade my Nitro RS4-3 RTR, and i wanted to get the OS .18 CVRX but i can't find it anywhere. I found a Team Infinity .18 engine (side exhaust) and so i wanted to ask if you think i should get it or not. is it good? or shall i just wait a bit and see if a .18 OS engine comes up on ebay?

also, if i were to get that Team Infinity, what do u think a good price wud be?

thanks
gangstar

[MT2 owns you]

dont get the CVRX. it is a good engine but it doesnt fit. the pull start hits the diff case. if you are willing to pay a bit more for a starter box though, and you get the CVR then it will probably fit.

[Jetskiboy77]

Owen are you sure it doesnt fit? I was pretty sure that it did fit in the RS4 3. If he is correct and it does hit it then you may be able to dremel it to fit in.

[MT2 owns you]

Owen are you sure it doesnt fit? I was pretty sure that it did fit in the RS4 3. If he is correct and it does hit it then you may be able to dremel it to fit in.
yep, im sure. i tried to put it in my rs4 3 and it didnt fit. another person on hpiforums.com tried to also and had the same problem i did. however, you can get it to fit by dremeling away at the plastic. unfortunatly, i also had to dremel away at the chassis to get it to almost get to the point where i can almost mesh the gears right (yes, it was that bad) but then again, my flywheel and what not was not on quite right. the flywheel...didnt fit. so you should only have to dremel away part of the diff case. and it takes maybe 2 minutes to do that, if you go really slow.

[dolphinchamp32]

hi i have another question i have the 2.5 t-maxx and when i try to turn on the reciever and the remote it wont get any signal but if i bring it to the local hobby shop it works fine also i live near a small airport (about 2 miles away)

[gangstar]

hi i have another question i have the 2.5 t-maxx and when i try to turn on the reciever and the remote it wont get any signal but if i bring it to the local hobby shop it works fine also i live near a small airport (about 2 miles away)

try a different radio (with a diff frequency) and see if it makes a difference. cud be bcoz of radio interference. is the lhs near the airport?

[dolphinchamp32]

thanks but all my other cars have the same radio frequency but with diff cristals. also yesterday i braught it back from the shop and it worked until it flipped. any sugg?

[dolphinchamp32]

also whats the best engine that fits the rs4 3 evo to get the most horsepower and overall performance? under $200. i dont want to make any mods on it to fit

[dolphinchamp32]

no ihs is not near the airport

[trw]

on the OS 18 CVRX issue.

yes, you will have to dremel away at the rear diff case to fit it, depending on your gear ratio, you may also have to use mount spacers as well, also if you get a carbon fiber upper deck, saddly that would have to be dremelled as well, but other then that, it fits.

I replaced the OS pullstart on mine with an pullstart from an Epic 18 and it fits like a glove now (had to replace P/S because I had to use mountspacers because of my gear ratios)

...on the Tmaxx radio issue, it could be that airplanes use radio communication (or whatever it is) between the airport on the craft, theres a possibility thats a cause?....

but as far as the radio not working after a flip, sounds like its just a bad unit to me.

also do you mean your other cars have different radios, but the same frequency? if your other cars have different crystals, then they have different frequencies, unless your referring to bands (27MHz / 75MHz) but that wouldn't affect how well it communicates (well, to my knowledge that is), thats more of an AM / FM issue, is this the factory radio we're talking about?

as for a good enigne, just by surfing towerhobbies, I think the best engine for under $200 would be the OS 18 CVR/X which would give you some $$ to spare

or if you want to go a little over $200, you can opt for an OS 18 TZ, but note that the glow plugs for a TZ cost more and you would need a rear exhaust manifold, plus you would have to beef up the dirvetrain considerably, because I know my OS 18 CVRX snapped the rear center dogbone twice and wore out my stock drive cups, and the TZ has way more power, so you know it wouldnt hold up in stock configuration.

if your car is stock and your still looking for an engine ,then I would have to suggest the OS 18 CVRX, well CVRX if your prepared to do the dremel thing, CVR if you have a starter box.

however if you need a pullstart but dont have dremel, then I suggest the Epic 18, it has a smaller pullstart, not as much power as the OS 18 though and costs a bit more, but you wouldnt have to do any fitting, it just drops right in.

those are the only good engines below $200 I know of, if anyone else knows of any others......

[dolphinchamp32]

thanks for the info so how fast will my stock rs4 go with the epic 18? and you were right i think i need a new reciever on my car that should do the trick.

[ron1431]

whats the diffrence between the cv-r and the cv-rx. my cv-r fit in perfect but i dont use pull start i use roto start.

[trw]

the CVRX comes with a pullstart, CVR does not.

[josh222]

whats the diffrence between the cv-r and the cv-rx. my cv-r fit in perfect but i dont use pull start i use roto start.
the difference is that the x means pullstart i wrote this on a psp

[friday13]

yep, im sure. i tried to put it in my rs4 3 and it didnt fit. another person on hpiforums.com tried to also and had the same problem i did. however, you can get it to fit by dremeling away at the plastic. unfortunatly, i also had to dremel away at the chassis to get it to almost get to the point where i can almost mesh the gears right (yes, it was that bad) but then again, my flywheel and what not was not on quite right. the flywheel...didnt fit. so you should only have to dremel away part of the diff case. and it takes maybe 2 minutes to do that, if you go really slow.

I own a RS4 RTR 3 and I'm running an OS 18 CVR-X. You all are right that with the pull starter it won't fit. But. What I did was replace the pull start with a roto start. The motor easily drops right in with almost 2 1/8" of room to spare. :cool: Don't dremel the plastic parts.

[MT2 owns you]

I own a RS4 RTR 3 and I'm running an OS 18 CVR-X. You all are right that with the pull starter it won't fit. But. What I did was replace the pull start with a roto start. The motor easily drops right in with almost 2 1/8" of room to spare. :cool: Don't dremel the plastic parts.
yea, if i get a .18 for my rs4 3 itll be a cvr, no x. personnally, i dont like the rotostart much at all. the cvrx belongs to my mt2 anyway so it doesnt matter. would definitly be fun to see what the rs4 3 could do with it though. :)

[friday13]

yea, if i get a .18 for my rs4 3 itll be a cvr, no x. personnally, i dont like the rotostart much at all. the cvrx belongs to my mt2 anyway so it doesnt matter. would definitly be fun to see what the rs4 3 could do with it though. :)

I got the cvr-x in my rs4 and its a missle. Soon I'll be dropping the same motor in my MT2. I prefer the roto start over the pull start for two reasons:
1) have no patience with pulling or tending to a string
2) one blast from my roto start and I'm off. Also, overall you get more output/speed with a motor with a roto start over a pull start.

[texasseville]

its funny these mod or whatever they are erased my post of me voicing my opion about their work I MEAN LACK OF WORK

well lets see

ITS NOW BEEN ABOUT 7 DAYS

STILL

w/ no answer as to why I cant post new thread, I can ONLY REPLY to them

its funny they know how to erase my post but dont know why I cant post

I NEVER FLAMED ANYONE...the MOD WAS THE ONE WHO WAS TRYING TO FLAME ME BY SAYING

Hey hold on you never gave us a chance to answer your question..you know the question you asked at 2am est..WHEN IN REALITY I ASKED THAT QUESTION 2 days BEFORE he said I asked it at 2am est

LOLOLOL what a joke these mods are still dont know why I cant post HUH

im not flaming now. IM JUST VOICING MY OPINION of these MODS and how I dont think they are helping my w/ my question that I emailed 10 OTHER mods as well and HAVE NOT YET GOTTEN ANY RESPONSE BACK FROM 1 of them

the last I checked this is the U.S.A. and I have a right to my opinion ...so now if we go against the mods or say something they dont like...LIKE MY DISLIKE OF HOW THEY DO THINGS (WHICH IS NNNOOOTTT FLAMING) they will shut us up by erasing out post

YALL KILL ME...

[texasseville]

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[C0NTENDER]

bodies that some of you may be interested in.

Bodies (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=205269)

[friday13]

bodies that some of you may be interested in.

Bodies (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=205269)

Do you have any othert bodies?

[C0NTENDER]

Do you have any othert bodies?

Nothing that is painted yet. Just clearing out my stock before I buy any more bodies.

[Ridder]

Hi y'all!
I'm still reading this thread, and I already came to page 112....
But now I need some advice...
I have a RS4 RTR3 Evo with THS pipe.
A couple of days ago I wrecked the T-15 (afterrun oil hydrolock....) with the rotostart.
The T-15 was doing a great job.
Now I need a new engine....but which one...?????
Some options:
- HPI 18SS: easy drop in, can still use the rotostart and I can get it cheaper than normal: someone I know has a RC shop and I can get discount for this engine.
The HPI is rated 1.5 HP
- OS 18CV-R quite easy drop in, have to take the pullstart, no startbox (yet)
The 18CV is rated 1.35 HP ( http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2104.html ), dunno why everybody is talking about 1.6 HP....
- The OS 18TZ... the fastes, most expensive option...and: is it possible??
Can I get the SG shaft version, HB centax clutch, engine mount (WolfPack??) and rear exhaust header (are they available from THS??)

I have no time to read this thread to the end before I buy the engine...
All input is welcome!

So: the easiest and chesapest for me would be the 18SS.
How is this engine?? Is it really bad compared to the 18CV-R???

[trw]

well first, you must know OS under rates all their engines, they actually have more HP then the stated ratings.

the OS 18 CVR, is rated at 1.3hp, it actually has 1.8hp (or was it 1.6?)
the OS 18 TZ is rated at 1.8hp, it actually has 2.2hp

however, thats just with OS engines.

if you do go with th OS 18 CVR(X), you will have to dremel the corner of the rear differential case because the pullstart rubs it from its width.

I would go for the 18SS engine, its not far off from the CVR power and no extra fitting is needed, but if your willing to do that little bit of dremeling, then go for the CVRX, or fit the roto-start to it instead.

[Ridder]

OK....
I might go for the OS 18 CV-R.
Will the HPI rotostart backplate fit on the OS 18 CV-R (non-pull start)?

And another question...
I'm really confused with all those shafts...

If possible I would like to put a centax clutch on my car as well...
Will that work? I guess I need the CV-R(P) for that (intergral pilot shaft/SG crank...??).
Will the rest still fit?
If not I still can use my racing clutch...
But what shaft do I need for the standars clutch and tranny?
Is that the OSMG2104 (standard crankshaft and pullstarter (which I don't need)?? :eek:

[Ridder]

I think it's gonna be the OS 18 CV-R(P)
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2100.html
That's the one with SG shaft and slide carb and no pull start.

Can I just put the HPI rotostart backplate on this engine?
(This has been asked before, but no answers...)
On the crank of roto/pull start engines there's a "pick-up pin".
Is that pin also there on non-pull start engines?
Or do I have to buy one with pull start and remove the pull start and place the rotostart backplate?

This engine also has a slide carb.
Do I need modifications to get it to work with a slide carb?
In the RTR3 Evo manual it only says you need an otherservo horn.

I already ordered the Wolfpack adjustable engine mount and Hotbodies centax clutch.

As soon a s I know what engine to get I will order....

@trw you have the OS 18CR-V don't you?

[tfhughes]

1) I think you'll have to order a backing plate made for that engine, some plates fit multiple engines.....but some don't.

2) There is no "pin" on a non-pullstart crank, you'll have to buy the pullstart version and take the pullstart assembly off and attach the roro-start.

3) I would think that a slide carb wouldn't be a really big deal to "make work". If the manual says you only need a different servo saver then that'll prolly do it for ya. If not, it is no big deal to make new linkage outta piano wire.

You'll be very happy with the Wolfpack Radicals mounts, Wolfgang does exceptional work. In my OPINION however, the centax clutch is highly over rated and i prefer the 3 shoe set-up.

[Ridder]

mmm...why do things have to be complicated...

I need a SG shaft for the centax and I also want to use the rotostart.
But there's no 18 CV-R with pullstart AND SG shaft....

Now what.....

Just forget about everything and slam a HPI 18SS in??

I had some very nice e-mail contact with Wolfgang, he took his time and almost wrote a book as an answer to my question.

[josh222]

you won't be able to use the centax with a pull start engine only non pull engines will work

[Ridder]

I think I'll let the centax go...
Too much of a hassle and little gain.
I don't wanna buy a starterbox (another $120 here) while I have a perfect Rotostart.

So now it's the HPI 18SS ór the OS18 CV-RX with standard shaft and rotary carb.
That's the right one I guess....
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2104.html

But will the Rotostart backplate fit the (OS)engine???

[friday13]

I think I'll let the centax go...
Too much of a hassle and little gain.
I don't wanna buy a starterbox (another $120 here) while I have a perfect Rotostart.

So now it's the HPI 18SS ór the OS18 CV-RX with standard shaft and rotary carb.
That's the right one I guess....
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2104.html

But will the Rotostart backplate fit the (OS)engine???

Yes. I have an OS 18 CVR-X on my HPI RS4 and I replaced the pull starter with a rotostart back plate. Heck the motor has a sliding carb and I still got it to work by modifying the servo horn.

I found that you get more responsive power from a sliding carb than a rotary carb.

[Ridder]

That's great!
I guess you have the OSMG2102: http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2102.html

I dunno if I wanna get the slide or rotary carb.
As long as the HPI rotostart backplate will fit I'm fine.
And you said it did!

[friday13]

That's great!
I guess you have the OSMG2102: http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2102.html

I dunno if I wanna get the slide or rotary carb.
As long as the HPI rotostart backplate will fit I'm fine.
And you said it did!


Hey Ridder.

I misssed what you said about being able to get the HPI 18ss.

Now before anyone freaks out and jumps on what I'm about to say just hear me out.

I have a OS 18CVR-X with a slide carb on my HPI RS4 3 with a THS pipe. Although, my cousin has a RS4 3 with a HPI 18 SS. Now as much as HPI over rates their horsepower rating on their engines and the O.S. under rates their horsepower rating on their engines. Either motor you decide on will make you happy.

Please keep in mind that the 18SS I'm talking about is the one with the purple head - not black head.

Again, either motor will put a BIG SMILE on your face when you see your rip on the road. Don't get me wrong - I LOVE O.S. engines. But. I say because of cost - go with the HPI 18ss (is its a purple head on it). If you go with the O.S. engine you'll have to also spend on a roto start back plate like I did if you don't want the pull starter.

Let me know how it goes.

FYI - I'm racing my OS 18 against my cousin with the 18SS this weekend for the 1st time. I can't wait! :D

[Ridder]

I wrecked my strong-going T-15: I probably put too much afterrun oil in, and the next time I started it, I hydro-locked it with the rotostarter.
Now the big end hits the crankcase when I try to turn it.

Too bad...but now I can put a engine in with more punch (allthough I really liked the T-15).
I know someone whe has a cousin who has a RCshop...and maybe I'll get a nice discount on the HPI.
OS car engines are hard to get here in the Netherlands.
The HPI 18SS is very easy to get and will cost me about $150.
The OS 18 CV-RX: dunno, have to get it from Tower: $85+$25 S&H.

I already have the rotostart backplate for the T-15.

I think I'll wait with ordering 'till after the weekend.

BTW: I also have the THS pipe. Never run the car with it though...I received it this week, right before I wrecked the T-15.
Nice pipe, but those THS guys don''t know how to reply to emails.....

Well ...have fun this weekend...I'll hear from you later!
But you're probably a bit biased towards the OS.... :p

[friday13]

I wrecked my strong-going T-15: I probably put too much afterrun oil in, and the next time I started it, I hydro-locked it with the rotostarter.
Now the big end hits the crankcase when I try to turn it.

Too bad...but now I can put a engine in with more punch (allthough I really liked the T-15).
I know someone whe has a cousin who has a RCshop...and maybe I'll get a nice discount on the HPI.
OS car engines are hard to get here in the Netherlands.
The HPI 18SS is very easy to get and will cost me about $150.
The OS 18 CV-RX: dunno, have to get it from Tower: $85+$25 S&H.

I already have the rotostart backplate for the T-15.

I think I'll wait with ordering 'till after the weekend.

BTW: I also have the THS pipe. Never run the car with it though...I received it this week, right before I wrecked the T-15.
Nice pipe, but those THS guys don''t know how to reply to emails.....

Well ...have fun this weekend...I'll hear from you later!
But you're probably a bit biased towards the OS.... :p

I'll have fun.

I think you mis-read my last email.

Despite the fact I like O.S. engines I still respect the 18ss motor from HPI. As much as I own a OS 18 I was telling you that both motors are good motors. "You'll be happy with either one - go with the one that'll cost you less".

[friday13]

BTW: I also have the THS pipe. Never run the car with it though...I received it this week, right before I wrecked the T-15.
Nice pipe, but those THS guys don''t know how to reply to emails.....

Forgot to mention, you're gonna love that pipe. I have a THS pipe as well - it sounds really good on a 18 motor.

[tfhughes]

Also DON'T FORGET that whatever engine you buy....it would be nice to be able to get parts for it at your Local Hobby Shop.

[Ridder]

HPI is easy to get, but I just informed about the OS.
It is available but through Germany....and will cost $250-275 !!
Airplane engines from OS are widely available here.
I can get parts for the OS through Tower and will take as long as parts for the HPI (that will not be in stock..).

It's nice to have an engine that nobody else has...but first I wait for the results of Friday the 13th in his OS vs. HPI battle....

[Ridder]

I looked at the Sullivan starter/Tiger Drive site and they say that you need a different Tiger drive for 18SS and 18CV-RX....
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/TigerDriveXrefmainframe.htm

So I guess the rotostart backplate for the 18SS/T-15 won't fit on the 18 CV-RX???

Maybe I have to get the Tiger Drive adaptor for the 8mm OS engines and use the shaft and starter motor of the HPI rotostart....

[josh222]

i have the .12R XS, it is a very nice engine, great power easy to tune and runsa ll day

[Petox20]

I have the HPI RS4, not the EVO, but the rides are similar. I got a very heat resistant hose, and cut it at an angle, and cut the point to a rounded design. I put it over the exhaust stinger, and used a type of plumbing clamp that uses a screw-like device that you turn with a screw driver. The band has square holes at an angle, so as you turn it one way, the screw turns and goes into these holes, and losens the clamp. The other way, it tightens it. With this device, it make it very easy to get it tighter than you possibly could get a zip tie. I turned the pipe so the stinger was pointing up, then used a spare part I had and screwed it into the back right side suspension, and ran a zip tie, made a loop, and put the hose through it. I made a round cutout in my HPI Mustang body. The hose just sticks out of the back of the body. This hose keeps the whole car clean, and the engine sounds deeper, too. Nice.

[Ridder]

Josh,
Did you have other engines before?
Can you compare?
Looks good....
I have a THS pipe now, so I would need a rear exhaust header.
I already e-mailed the THS guys but in vain till now....they're better in making pipes then replying to e-mails.

Who's the manufacturer of the engine??

[MT2 owns you]

the .12R XS is made by HPI

[Ridder]

Quote from the HPI site:
These figures are estimates from the manufacturer of the engine. Like most R/C car companies, HPI purchases engines from model engine manufacturers, we do not have a testing lab or dyno to rate our engines.

When the rotostart backplate would fit, it could be a nice little screamer for my car....

[Petox20]

Josh,
Did you have other engines before?
Can you compare?
Looks good....
I have a THS pipe now, so I would need a rear exhaust header.
I already e-mailed the THS guys but in vain till now....they're better in making pipes then replying to e-mails.

Who's the manufacturer of the engine??

My engine is made by HPI, and I have the .12R SS. Sorry, I forgot to say I have the kit version, the Nitro RS4 3 SS.

[Jetskiboy77]

Youd be happy with the OS .18 , HPI .18, or the HPI .12 that Josh told you about. I have the OS .18 and the HPI .12r xs and theyre both little screamers. If your talking about the OS .18 that comes with one of the NMT2's, that is also a nice engine as someone that I race around with as it.

[MT2 owns you]

If your talking about the OS .18 that comes with one of the NMT2's, that is also a nice engine as someone that I race around with as it.
Mike, none of the MT2's come with the OS .18 :p i think its the HPI 18ss engine your talking about. am i right?

[Ridder]

I just ordered the OS 18 CV-RX with standard shaft and slide carb.
I called Tower and they said the Dura Trax backplate would fit on the OS and work with the rotostart....so I also ordered that backplate.
Last week I also ordered 19 and 23 pinions and 41 and 45 spurs.
And a 2-speed maintenance kit....I can't find the black spring.

All of that, together with the WolfpackRadicals adjustable enginemounts should get me running soon!

Can't wait

[Jetskiboy77]

Good luck with your new engine.

[Ridder]

If the engine is as fast as the delivery...then I will be champion very soon....

Within 12 hours it travelled from Illinois to the Netherlands.
It's waiting for customer clearance 10 miles from here....I hope it will slip through.... don't wanna pay extra...

[trw]

hey awsome!

My RS4 3 made week 3 of the September gallery on HPIs website :D

and jetskiboys NMT made week 1 June

[Ridder]

I received the 18CV-RX and put some afterrun oil in it and cycled it a couple of times.
I replaced the pullstarter with the HPI rotostart backplate and it fitted nicely!
I put the clutch and pinion gears on and now I have to wait 'till the WPR adjustable engine mounts will arive....they're mailed yesterday.

[Ridder]

@friday13

How was the battle OS vs HPI???

[friday13]

@friday13

How was the battle OS vs HPI???

Actually Ridder,

We have not raced as of yet - something always comes up.

But, last night I was out tuning my RS4 3 and I can honestly say its a "land rocket".

You see Ridder, the OS 18 vs. HPI 18ss battle is a drag racing battle. Therefore I must have my car tuned to the outmost best.

Although, It feels as if it has more potential in the bottom end range but I can't figure out how to get it.

Also, anyone know the best temp. range the OS 18 motor should run in? I think its running too hot. It still rips though.

[Troy Lyman]

Friday, best way I know how to tune the bottom end:

Drive the car around until it gets up to temp. Then do a couple WOT passes to get it good and cleared out. Then stop the car and count off thirty seconds. Once you hit thirty, floor it. The car should launch real nice with little to no hesitation or bog. That will get you in the ballpark.

I was taught this by Akira at HPI...guy knows his stuff and this method has always worked great for me.

[friday13]

Friday, best way I know how to tune the bottom end:

Drive the car around until it gets up to temp. Then do a couple WOT passes to get it good and cleared out. Then stop the car and count off thirty seconds. Once you hit thirty, floor it. The car should launch real nice with little to know hesitation or bog. That will get you in the ballpark.

I was taught this by Akira at HPI...guy knows his stuff and this method has always worked great for me.

That's some wicked inside scoop Troy.

Although, what direction should I turn the LSN if it bogs or doesn't bog :confused:

Also, what's a safe temp that the motor should be running? I've heard too many things.

At one point the motor read 296F on the gun.

[MT2 owns you]

i would keep it in the 200F-260F range.

[friday13]

i would keep it in the 200F-260F range.


DAmn! :eek: That means my RS4 is running too hot.

What should I do if it continues to run in the 300F area?

[MT2 owns you]

what i do (may not be the right way, but i panic) is shut it off, and richen it 1/8 of a turn. for tuning i go by: 1-sound. after its warmed up, i get it so that it just starts to bog down a bit, and lean it 1/8 of a turn (so that it doesnt bog down) 2-exaust. if its putting out a nice stream of blue smoke, its good (i think, pretty sure) 3-temperature. when tuned to my liking, it runs at about 230-240F. hope that helps.

[friday13]

what i do (may not be the right way, but i panic) is shut it off, and richen it 1/8 of a turn. for tuning i go by: 1-sound. after its warmed up, i get it so that it just starts to bog down a bit, and lean it 1/8 of a turn (so that it doesnt bog down) 2-exaust. if its putting out a nice stream of blue smoke, its good (i think, pretty sure) 3-temperature. when tuned to my liking, it runs at about 230-240F. hope that helps.


Sure does help.
Currently, I have a nice stream of blue smoke.
I'm gonna try and solve it tonight.
Thanks!

Does anyone else have any input?

[Troy Lyman]

Make sure your HSN (High Speed Needle) is set first before messing with the LSN (Low Speed Needle). That is very important. If you're running 290 temps it sounds hot to me. 260-270 is where most .12s and .15s like to run...the .18s may be a bit different. 200 seems low to me as does anything below 240...but again, the .18s may be different.

On the LSN adjustment, richen it up if it hesitates (and there is no huge puff of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust when you floor it). To richen it you turn the needle counter-clockwise just like the HSN. If the car bogs with a big puff of blue smoke (or dies completely during the 30 seconds or when you floor it and is flooded) then it is too rich and the LSN needs to be leaned a bit by screwing it clockwise. REMEMBER, tune your HSN FIRST as anything you do to it will affect the LSN the same way. Also, only make small adjustments to the LSN and make sure to make a couple of high speed passes between the 30 seconds stopped tests.

I've done this on all my nitro cars and this is the reason why, even with pull starts on them, they fire very easily.

[nitrous]

new beels

[Jetskiboy77]

hey awsome!

My RS4 3 made week 3 of the September gallery on HPIs website :D

and jetskiboys NMT made week 1 June

Yes it did, howd you know? I didnt win anything though. :(

And Owen I didnt mean to throw in that "O.S" in there. That was a mistake.

[Ridder]

I received the WPR adj. engine mounts and put them on together with the OS.
Next was the THS pipe.
I just finished giving the OS the first couple of heatcycles.
Here are some pics:
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/hpi3resize.jpg

http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/WPR2.jpg

[friday13]

I received the WPR adj. engine mounts and put them on together with the OS.
Next was the THS pipe.
I just finished giving the OS the first couple of heatcycles.
Here are some pics:
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/hpi3resize.jpg

http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/WPR2.jpg

Car looks good.
Is that a boost bottle you have there?

[josh222]

too is bad and too cold is bad, tune it up first to where it running good then check the temps, you shouldn't tune it on temps alone

[Ridder]

Friday,
I guess you mean the Ofna fuel filter/pump?

I had some trouble with the standard fuel tank: air bubbles in the fuel line, never could really finish a tank more than 50%.
I put a primerless racing tank in, together with the Ofna ceramic filter with pump.
Now everything works fine.

[MT2 owns you]

thats a very clean rs4! i like it!

[Jetskiboy77]

It is a very nice looking car. Have fun with your OS .18, its a very good engine. I love mine right now.

[Silent Night]

yeah i does looks pretty clean.. a bit too much aluminum imo... but then again im more of a carbon fiber guy....

[dolphinchamp32]

hi im 14 years old and i have the nitro rs4 3 evo and i wan't to know if anyone knows the high speed needle valve settings for the .15 engine bec i don't feel enough power from it as if it has more to give but it cant let it all out. and i want to know if i can convert it to rally and if so what parts do i need to buy and how much will it be. THANKS

[Jetskiboy77]

Im pretty sure theres a conversion on HPI's (hpiracing.com) website to convert the RS4 3 to a rally. I dont remeber the high speed needle setting, but it would probably be around 2.5 from closed. You did break in the engine, right?

[Ridder]

@ Silent Night:
That's winterisation.....
When it's cold, the plastic gets brittle and breaks easy, alu doesn't.. :p

[Petox20]

hi im 14 years old and i have the nitro rs4 3 evo and i wan't to know if anyone knows the high speed needle valve settings for the .15 engine bec i don't feel enough power from it as if it has more to give but it cant let it all out. and i want to know if i can convert it to rally and if so what parts do i need to buy and how much will it be. THANKS


I'm 16, and I got my Nitro RS4 3 SS about 1.5 years ago. Gee, it doesn't seem like that long! I really love the car, but I wanted to run a nitro in my backyard. I have an electric buggy (my first real ride), but I wanted the fun of it in a nitro-powered package. I can't afford a new ride, so I converted my touring car into a rally car. I got offroad tires, and I replaced the stock shock shafts with longer ones, and got longer shock springs. It increased my ride hieght, and it runs pretty well in reletively good offroad conditions. I use those pieces that came with my kit (don't know what they're called :o ) that look like Cs and that are different thicknesses to adjust the spring tension (you put them between the top of the spring and the top of the shock) to adjust the height for different driving conditions and for different bodies. I take 'em off for onroad driving, and put 'em on for off road, to increase ground clearence.

It was pretty simple and inexpensive, and it was well worth it. Not for those seriouse racers, though. For those who slave endlessly for another split second off their lap times, this isn't for you (if you were that competitive, though, you probably have a different model)

[Petox20]

Kinda on the subject of my last reply, has anyone converted a Nitro RS4 3 into a Monster Truck using the parts from the Nitro RS4 3 MT? And if so, how much would it cost?

[Petox20]

I received the WPR adj. engine mounts and put them on together with the OS.
Next was the THS pipe.
I just finished giving the OS the first couple of heatcycles.
Here are some pics:
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/hpi3resize.jpg

http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/WPR2.jpg

That is the best RS4 3 I've ever seen! Is that that Venom computer that's a failsafe, temp. monitor, voltmeter, and some I'm forgetting? Does it work well?
Also, how is the fuel pump powered?

[MT2 owns you]

Kinda on the subject of my last reply, has anyone converted a Nitro RS4 3 into a Monster Truck using the parts from the Nitro RS4 3 MT? And if so, how much would it cost?
you mean a 4wd stadium truck aka mt2? yea, ive done it since i have both cars. of course, it would probably perfrom kinda crappy cuz the chassis is a bit shorter. it would cost...maybe 50$ (very rough estimate)..i dont think it would really be worth it though.

the fuel pump is hand powered- think of it as a squeek toy that pumps fuel......and yea, i think that is the venom smart temp.i think its got a fail safe, temp monitor, and a thing that limits your throttle at a certain temperature that you set.

[Petox20]

waould duratrax 20% red alert be ok? b/c i heard it is pretty much the same exact thing as odonnell and i no oddonell is good. how is the hpi power fuel? or the trinnity?

I have no doubt that HPI's powerfuel is good, but it's expensive. Too expensive for me :D . I'm not saying to skimp on fuel quality, because thats just kinda stupid, but there are plenty of really good fuels out there that are cheaper than Power Fuel and are at least almost as good, and I'd recomend Byron's 20% Nitro for an Nitro RS4 3.

[Ridder]

The Venom Smart Temp works fine.
I made a hole in the windscreen so I can take a quick peek to see the temperature.
I calibrated it in boiling water and it said 100 C, very exact (that's 212F for you guys... :D )

The pump is just a manual pump: just sqeeze the little balloon and you can start your engine. With the new tank I only need it the first time. With the tank with primer I had to pump/prime every start...

[azizhousecallz]

anyone have these for there t 15 for the rs4 3 ? would like to get a pair. so far only seen them on the savage. :D

[Troy Lyman]

Just to cover a couple of things.

Needle settings - There is no magic number to them. I've seen the same engine run rich at 2.5 turns out and lean at 3 turns out...not the same type of engine...but the EXACT same engine. The difference...air conditions. Cold temps make for denser air therefore if you leave your needle settings where it was when it was warm out the engine will go LEAN. The reason for this is denser air = more air and thus you have more air with the same amount of fuel you had for less air...therefore it goes lean. The only way to get the most out of your engine is to tune for your conditions. Also, the .15fe is much different than the T-15 and the .15SS...which HPI .15 do you have?

Converting your Nitro RS4 to Rally or NMT -- Can be done but how much do you want to spend? To make a complete conversion would be very costly. In the end you are better off to just get the new kit. If you go halfway, you'll have some issues. First is gearing. The Nitro RS4 3 is geared differently than the NMT/Super Nitro Rally (HPI's nitro rally car). Because it was designed for MUCH smaller tires, the gear ratio was made shorter on the Nitro 3. Also, as someone pointed out, the chassis is different thus NMT bodies would not fit without an NMT chassis and center dogbones. For the rally, Shock travel is your issue. I THINK the SNR shock towers would fit the NRS4 3 and thus the shocks but the reason HPI chose to go with the SNR rather than a standard NRS4 3 based rally car was it was found the larger tires of the SNR along with the larger size made it a more capable off roader than the 1/10th rally cars. Up to you though.

HPI Powerfuel -- HPI tried out Byrons when they made their fuel. Worked okay and is certainly better than other brands out there. However, if you can pick up Trinity's Monster HP fuel or Wildcat fuel they are nearly identical to HPI Powerfuel. Trinity uses a little less oil in their formula (12% vs HPI's 14% if I remember the numbers correctly) but all three fuels are made by Wildcat. After trying MANY different fuels, I've found the Wildcat stuff to be top notch and is all I run or recommend to anyone. If I can't get HPI, I'll use Trinity...Wildcat isn't available out here.

Now, personally, I would never run O'Donnell fuel. I have my reasons...actually quite a few...but I would rather run Traxxas fuel or Byrons over O'Donnell anyday.

Keep in mind something about fuel. Fuel is also what lubricates your engine. Many "racing" specific fuels (Trinity's included) get "more power" out of your engine by reducing the amount of oil in the blend. This is great for pure racers that NEVER "bash" their cars for fun or have deep pockets to rebuild their engines more frequently. For those of you who are not so hard core, you will probably never notice the power difference between a "race" blend fuel and a regular everyday use fuel...many "pro" racers probably can't either. I ran HPI Powerfuel consistantly when I was racing every week and I certainly didn't see my cars suffer from "lack of power" because of the 14% oil content. In addition, the engines we ran on HPI power fuel still produced a ton of power even after a number of gallons were run through the engine. My Super Nitro's Pro .12R RC/SC hybread is on it's fifth gallon of the stuff and I'm still producing a ton of power out of it. So you have to ask yourself is advanced engine wear worth the tiny bit of added power you get out of lesser oil blends? Sure isn't for me.

[josh222]

I personaly converted my ss into a mt1 and it wasn't that hard but still a bit cheaper than buying a mt1 when they where out

[dolphinchamp32]

yeah i broke it in right but now i just recently bought the mammoth st and for the record i will never buy from xtm again!!!! the car looks ok and at that price it is hard not to want it but the first day i baught it it ate up the batteries and the fuel tank is way too small. also their are not really any replacement parts or any hopups becides for the pro 24.7. please take it from me DON'T BUY XTM unless you like their customer support which is uncomparible with other car brands.

[Petox20]

I personaly converted my ss into a mt1 and it wasn't that hard but still a bit cheaper than buying a mt1 when they where out

What parts did you use? If you could post the part numbers for me I would greatly appreciate it.

[MT2 owns you]

well, it wouldnt comepletely be a mt1 (chassis) but heres what you need. i dont know the part #'s though sorry.
a arms
shocks
dogbones
wheels/tires
turnbuckles
shock towers

and i think thats it.

btw, you might want to price the cost of those parts, and then find out what complete, used nmt's go for before you go buying stuff.

[jjl]

OT - question. I stripped one of the screws that bolts the engine onto the chassis, the head got worn down. Anyone know how to remove the stripped screw? I can't adjust my gear mesh without being able to remove this screw. any help appreciated. thanks.

[MT2 owns you]

how badly worn?

[azizhousecallz]

After a year and two T-15 motors from HPI I have gotten better at tuning and trouble shooting just about any problem that would come along. I have learnd how important it is to watch the temp. and to keep your car clean. This takes a lot of work but now im ready. I have made some real investments into my rs4-3 and want a better engine to race in it. race chassis, carbon upper decks, and shock towers better springs, and all the other little bells and whistles. now im ready for a very dependable motor thats worthy of this money in upgrades? help a brother out here! :D

[friday13]

You might want to find out where your racing - which races that is. Some races don't allow outlaw motors

[josh222]

i have the .12r XS and it is a great race legal engine and it is only 130 bucks, it makes a lot more power than the t-15 and revs much higher but you need a starter box and a re manifold. Jetskiboy and i both have them in our cars. It had so much pinch when it was new that my 1/8th scale buggy starter box with a car battery couldn't turn it over :D But if you want crazy power look at the os .12tz 1.5hp

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

[Ridder]

Grind a slot with a Dremel in the head of the screw and use a normal, flat screwdriver and/or glue a screwdriver to the head of the screw with CA glue and remove the screw.

[azizhousecallz]

Thanks ! i just won this motor on ebay new for 65.00 wow! now i just have to get a starter box. lol! :D



i have the .12r XS and it is a great race legal engine and it is only 130 bucks, it makes a lot more power than the t-15 and revs much higher but you need a starter box and a re manifold. Jetskiboy and i both have them in our cars. It had so much pinch when it was new that my 1/8th scale buggy starter box with a car battery couldn't turn it over :D But if you want crazy power look at the os .12tz 1.5hp

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

[azizhousecallz]

Josh Question? was it a true bitch tring to break in the 12R? and have you had any starting problems with her. I have read some monster stories about HPI 12R motors. whats your take?
Thanks ! i just won this motor on ebay new for 65.00 wow! now i just have to get a starter box. lol! :D

[josh222]

well the.12R XS is hpi most powerfull small block, it might have less torque than the 18ss but this thing can rev very high and it has great low end but it has a smooth powerband, i like it most for how it runs all day and is super easy to tune, it has a 3needle composite car that uses big block air filters, it is a rear exhaust engine. It is a STS based engine, hpi rates it at 1.35hp

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpig1301.jpg

[M3EVOlution]

So I'm ready to buy the O.S. .18 engine. Right now I have a stock hpi evo rtr with the t 15 engine and rotostart.

My question is:
What do I need to buy? Do I need new clutch bells, pinions, etc..? Also there are different types of engines. Which should I get? I'd like a rotostart engine but what do I need to make this possible?

Thanks for your time guys as I may make the order early tomorrow.

[josh222]

if the engine has a threaded crank shaft it will drop right in and i believe that you can use rotostart on the cvr 18

[azizhousecallz]

JOsh what fuel are you using in your HPI 20% or higher?


well the.12R XS is hpi most powerfull small block, it might have less torque than the 18ss but this thing can rev very high and it has great low end but it has a smooth powerband, i like it most for how it runs all day and is super easy to tune, it has a 3needle composite car that uses big block air filters, it is a rear exhaust engine. It is a STS based engine, hpi rates it at 1.35hp

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpig1301.jpg

[azizhousecallz]

http://www.nitroreview.com/TheDatabase/engineimages/OSHyper12CV10ECarbPS.jpg

would i be able to use this engine in my rs4 3 and could i turn the car around without any problems.

[josh222]

the pic isn't working, i run 20%

[azizhousecallz]

the pic isn't working, i run 20%


check the picture now josh.

[M3EVOlution]

if the engine has a threaded crank shaft it will drop right in and i believe that you can use rotostart on the cvr 18
Well does the hpi evo have the threaded crankshaft? Also will the HPI rotostart system bolt right onto the cvr 18 engine? Thanks :confused:

[josh222]

yes that engine will work and yes the carb can be tunred around, all hpi cars you the threaded crank shaft and yes the t-15 has a threaded crank

[azizhousecallz]

yes that engine will work and yes the carb can be tunred around, all hpi cars you the threaded crank shaft and yes the t-15 has a threaded crank

its not as powerful as the OS TZ but its fine for the races with the guys. but i am looking into it. and if i come up with some more cash i'll go for the TZ. Just got carbon upper deck, and a new race chassis. these items with my already in play upgrades will make this Rs4-3 really nice just want a better engine. :confused: im thinking about sending my old T-15 back to hpi for an engine upgrade for the 12R ss what do you think Josh?

[josh222]

no, the .12r ss isn't very powerfull, you want the .12r xs

[Ridder]

I bolted the OS18 CV-RX (standard shaft,slide carb) to my RS4 RTR3 Evo, after I killed my T15 (too much afterrun: hydrolock).
I used the WolfPack Radicals adjustable mounts without any problem.
Some pics:
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/WPR2.jpg
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~ridder/images/hpi3resize.jpg

I finished breakin' it in, but the season is over, so I didn't do much racing, but it has plenty of power.

[azizhousecallz]

will the HPI flywheel mount up to this OS 18 or will i need to get another. I noticed the space between the block and the fly wheel. And are you breaking off dogbones with this engine? i hear that its a monster and eats dogbones and clutches? talk to me!

[Ridder]

Yes, the flywheel will fit.
I put a lightweight flywheel on it (32 mm), but the standard one will fit.
I replaced the front and rear dogbones with CVD's (they were still OK, but some preventative maintenance), but I still have the central dogbones.
When I put larger pinions and smaller spurs on, I saw there was some wear on the cups, I probably replace the central dogbones later.
I only ran about 5 tanks on a short track with lot of turns.
Powersliding through the corners!

BTW: I thought you bought a Savage?? (I also bid on that one, but I had to pay int'l shipping and it became to pricy and you were very eager to get it...)

[Petox20]

Nah......I'm done with HPI. I bought the Pro 3, and spent about $250-$300 on hop-ups and got my ass handed to me every weekend at the track. I thought that electric racing just wasn't my thing. For kicks, I got an x-ray off ebay (New, and unbuilt) maybe 2 1/2 months ago and I went from C-main to A-main in 2 weeks and I won my first A-main ever 1 week ago. I can't explain why because I drove exactly the same with the xray as I did with the pro3. The X just handled so damn well......box stock with factory recommended set-up that the car actually went where i wanted it to. A better handling car can make a better driver i guess.

I bought the Nitro 3 when the ss kit frst came out last year and I didn't run it (on a track w/other nitros) until yesterday. While I love the ss motor and how easy it is to maintain the car, I don't like the handling. I refuse to make the same mistake and spend a lot of money on a car to make it handle like should from the box.

Take a look at some of these "pro" drivers in the magazines. Associated and losi drivers make slight mods to their cars. The guy who won with the Xray T1R (the $230 one) won a championship in europe box stock. Take a lot at anything that sponsored HPI drivers use and its hard to find a "stock" item on the damn car. Half of that stuff isn't even in the U.S.

I'm glad HPI came out and said the nitro 3 isn't a race car. But I wish they put that in their magazine ads before I bought mine. I race on a track and not in an alley, and I'm far from a basher. In my opinion, HPI can keep the basher demographic. The only thing that they can sell me from now on........Is a body!

I have an SS and it is mostly stock. I only installed longer shock shafts and longer springs, and it handles wonderfully. Even before I did the upgrading, it handled good. You just have to use the different holes in the different suspension parts to suit your conditions and personal driving style. It's not the best race car, I'll admit, but with a little work (under an hour), you can get it to handle pretty well.

[Petox20]

Man this sucks. My car is down and out right now since I messed up my THS header. Man you can't get a replacement header by itself. Time for a new exhaust, either another THS or some other header/pipe combo. But still, man this sucks.
I think I'll get a new body also. I was looking into the Saleen but is the heatsink sticks out of the body on the Elise I just might have to look into that too.

The Heat Sink Head sticks out of both the Saleen SR7 and Lotus Elise Bodies.

[Petox20]

Has anyone gotten the Stage D conversion kit? I was seriously considering if I should get it. It looks cool, seems like it would increase handling because of the new layout of components, and it would be a lot of fun to rebuild my SS with it. If anyone has experience with this, please tell me what you think, as of handling, performance, and just your overall experience (good or bad). Thanks for any help.

[MT2 owns you]

i have a few questions. how much would the following engines go for?

1. HPI 18ss w/ black head -new
2. HPI .12rss -new
3. HPI.12rss -very very very used
4. epic .18 -definitly used
5. OS .18 cvrx - maybe 15 tanks. i put ARO in it before i stored it.

all of them are rotary carbs.

and...

1. ths tuned pipe- one small dent, many dings
2. another ths tuned pipe- i think also one dent, even more dings than the last one

thanks.

[Jetskiboy77]

Why are you selling all that?

[M3EVOlution]

Hi can anyone tell me how to install these? Are these the replacement for the rear wheel dog bones?

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Nitro-RS4-3-SS-EVO-RTR-Rear-Universal-Swing-Shafts_W0QQitemZ6007303928QQcategoryZ34063QQrdZ1QQ cmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

[Ridder]

That should be easy....just take the dogbone and axle out and replace it by the dogbone-axle combination you bought.
I just did something simular: I put the MIP CVD's on my HPI....
Instructions: http://www.hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/rebuild-cvd.htm

[josh222]

it is preety simple

[M3EVOlution]

Where can I get MIP Shiny CVDs? And how do the MIP CVDs compare to the ebay ones?

Also what is the meaning of "CVD"

[Ridder]

I got them from eBay...RCBoyz I think.
AFAIK it means Constant Velocity Drive

[M3EVOlution]

I'm going to buy some lunsford titanium turn buckles and would like to know what sizes to get. I'll need six total for the suspension area and would like to another two for connecting my C hub to my graphite upper deck. Please tell me what sizes to get.
Also, which ball cups should I use?
Thanks.

[MT2 owns you]

I'm going to buy some lunsford titanium turn buckles and would like to know what sizes to get. I'll need six total for the suspension area and would like to another two for connecting my C hub to my graphite upper deck. Please tell me what sizes to get.
Also, which ball cups should I use?
Thanks.
you need 1 inch turnbuckles and i think you should get rpm heavy duty ball cups.

[azizhousecallz]

today i upgraded to an OS 18 CV-R engine and put to rest my T15.
I never knew that it could be so easy to tune an engine , and that my EVO could move that fast! WOW what a great engine. Today I ran a gallon of 25% and it begged for more. It never failed or cut out the entire day. And the power was great with all my upgrades this was a great day for me. I had to change some bones & cups i also added sway bars, & about 30 more feet to the track. :D I love this GAME!!!!! :D

[MT2 owns you]

yea, really easy to tune isnt it? :D

[oswald]

yep, same here, I have the same engine + a dynamite tuned pipe and it screeams ! the pipe sounds so much better than the stock one, louder and beefier... i'll post a pic if anyone is interested

[azizhousecallz]

yep, same here, I have the same engine + a dynamite tuned pipe and it screeams ! the pipe sounds so much better than the stock one, louder and beefier... i'll post a pic if anyone is interested


lets take a look @ it! I have a better tuned pipe too! and i know what you mean that plastic HPI pipe really shut the new engine down. but the aluminum pipe let my 18 be free! :D

[M3EVOlution]

Good to hear guys. I'm ordering one this month too. Does this engine come with an exhaust header or can you use the HPI header from the HPI T15 engine? Also, you can use the ths rs4 rtr tuned pipe with this engine correct? And can you post pics? Thanks

[azizhousecallz]

Good to hear guys. I'm ordering one this month too. Does this engine come with an exhaust header or can you use the HPI header from the HPI T15 engine? Also, you can use the ths rs4 rtr tuned pipe with this engine correct? And can you post pics? Thanks

yes to all of the above. but you really will get more power out of it with a better header and pipe. you will need engine mounts the power is really tight so if you have not upgraded to universals i would put that money aside now. :D :D i took pictures today just have not uploaded them to my pc yet. will post some tomorrow.

[josh222]

HPI makes rear exhaust manifold for the rs4 3 and with this manifold you can use the stock pipe

[M3EVOlution]

Will the THS pipoe be okay for the OS 18?

[MT2 owns you]

yea.

[Jetskiboy77]

Will the THS pipoe be okay for the OS 18?


It certainly will, thats the pipe I use on my OS .18.

[Ridder]

Me too! :D

[oswald]

there you go - the pic... the pipe is missing a bracing rod which i have just made myself... it's a real screamer, very quick. I have just broken in the engine and tuned it up.. real killer. the sound is soooo much better than the stock pipe. unbelieveable...

[M3EVOlution]

Nice rs4! Can you tell me everything i need to do the t15 to OS .18 crvr with pull start conversion. Thanks! I already have the engine btw.

[oswald]

i will dig up the receipts and post all the parts needed.

[M3EVOlution]

i will dig up the receipts and post all the parts needed.
thanks. also what air filter did u use?

[Zoo Tv]

Guys I have a question regarding my battery voltage. Have a venom speed meter and can't get it to read higher than 4.0v running 4 brand new AA batteries. Is a new prob - had car for over 6 months. Throttle servo won't even move and steering very sluggish.

Have failsafe and VSM installed on Futaba receive adn Hitec digi steering servo and high speed throttle servo. Thoughts??

Cheers,

[oswald]

thanks. also what air filter did u use?
ok. here's what I had to buy to make this work.

HPI parts:

flywheel - part no A801 - alum. flywheel NRS4
collet 7x5mm - part no A804
engine mount - part no A863
and some screws, binder head screw M3x8mm (Z517).
the clutchbell i used from the .15FE that I had.

the air filter came with the engine. it's an OS .18 CV-RX pullstart. the filter is something air filter 203 or something like that, can't remember now.

[josh222]

Guys I have a question regarding my battery voltage. Have a venom speed meter and can't get it to read higher than 4.0v running 4 brand new AA batteries. Is a new prob - had car for over 6 months. Throttle servo won't even move and steering very sluggish.

Have failsafe and VSM installed on Futaba receive adn Hitec digi steering servo and high speed throttle servo. Thoughts??

Cheers,

well underload normal aa will only read as 4V, fail safe and that speed metter are made to run on a 5cell 6volt rechargable batter pack, on the 5 cell pack the servos are much faster and have more power

[Zoo Tv]

Yeah I thought that also, but have been using 4 x 1.5v AA's for a few months now....

[BLAK_FOX]

Hi Guys:

What is good racing setup to race in a track?

Thanks

[Zoo Tv]

well underload normal aa will only read as 4V, fail safe and that speed metter are made to run on a 5cell 6volt rechargable batter pack, on the 5 cell pack the servos are much faster and have more power


Too right you are Josh. Purchased a new high speed servo (0.10 sec @ 6.0v) today to replace the Hitec 625MG that has failed me. Also purchased new hump pack @ 1200mah and pocket charger. VSM now reads receiver pack running at 7.0V. The digi Hitec 5625MG I still have for steering and the new throttle servo are running at incredible speeds. Why oh why did I EVER put up with AA's!!!!!

Forgot to mention that I also purchased an RB pipe today. Fired it up and noticed the difference in sound and responsiveness immediately over the stock "pipe", can't wait to run it. Pics soon.

Thanks,

[Zoo Tv]

Hi Guys:

What is good racing setup to race in a track?

Thanks


To seriously race I wouldn't recommend the RS4, try the R40 if you are HPI orientated. The RS4 is a car for bashing - and in my case with the 18SS - quite a decent one, but racing is a different story as proper race cars have tighter tollerances from the factory pertaining to steering systems, throttle systems, gear boxes, diffs etc etc etc.

[josh222]

but you can still race but ti will cost you, i have like 300+ in parts on my car :eek: :D

[Jetskiboy77]

lol And I have like $500+ into mine. lol Josh.

[BLAK_FOX]

I have a lot of upgrades in my car but don't know if it will be able to compete with the high end cars. Do you guys think that I can turn it in a competitive car?

[M3EVOlution]

I have a lot of upgrades in my car but don't know if it will be able to compete with the high end cars. Do you guys think that I can turn it in a competitive car?
Well what you first want to do is set your wheels at 2 degree negative camber. :D

[josh222]

yes you can, mine is getting there and jetski's car is preety much done :D these are kinda old and i have more stuff on it now :)

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Up46622.jpg

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Yw68666.jpg

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/96593/Jp32558.jpg

[BLAK_FOX]

Thanks Josh. I see you have an aftermarket chassis is there much difference in performance between the stock chassis and a aftermarket one?

[Zoo Tv]

Hey guys,

Have a new problem in that the primer pump on the tank will move fuel up the line then suck it back. I have been told this is due to the low speed setting on the carb. Does this sound right?

Also, I have taken digi pics of the car, but how can I re-size to post?

Cheers,

[MT2 owns you]

Hey guys

I have taken digi pics of the car, but how can I re-size to post?

Cheers
Instead, just host them on imageshack or another image hosting site. That way you dont have to resize them and can include multiple pics in the same post.

[josh222]

Thanks Josh. I see you have an aftermarket chassis is there much difference in performance between the stock chassis and a aftermarket one?
the one i have is the HPI super chassi, it is about the same weight as the stocker but is way stiffer and has more tuning options

[BLAK_FOX]

What you mean with tuning options? I am thinking about buying this one http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-NITRO-RS4-RTR-3-SS-EVO-7075-T6-ALUMINUM-CHASSIS_W0QQitemZ6013863699QQcategoryZ34063QQrdZ1Q QcmdZViewItem

[josh222]

with most of the racing chassi you can use droop screws to adjust ride height and that one looks good

[azizhousecallz]

:( i had some exhaust leakage and now my pull start slips. i took it of the engine and oil/fuel found its way into the pull start housing. i cleaned the one way bearing, and got as mush of the oil out of the housing as posible, but after about 5 good pulls its slipping again. should i just chuck it or is their a way to clean it so it will stop slipping? the pull start it not broken and the one way seems fine, but when you put them together and try to start my 18 it slips so bad that it feels broken. :(

[oswald]

try to spray it with a nitro cleaner... or just replace it. it's not an expensive part but it will save you a lot of headaches with startying your car.

[azizhousecallz]

:D try to spray it with a nitro cleaner... or just replace it. it's not an expensive part but it will save you a lot of headaches with startying your car.

will try that and see if it works. just got the engine two weeks ago, and have not had any problems. it shook the pin out of my exhaust and leaked oil back without me knowing it until it was to late and after a good cleaning i saw that it shook other things loose. this is a strong engine for my RS4 3.
thanks for the idea.
:D

[azizhousecallz]

ok i cleaned the pull start and the one way again, and it worked fine for the first ten minutes. then it started slipping again. i think im getting fuel past my back plate is that normal? and what should i do (remove and retighten)
or is my engine done? it fires up just fine and it does not seem to be loosing compression. just seems to be blowing off oil/fuel pass the o ring where the one way sits. help me out guy! :confused:

[M3EVOlution]

HPI graphite bumper plate instructions

I got this and am trying to install it but fond out that it is a flat peice and doesnt have stakes that screw onto the chassis. Well actually it is secured by only 1 screw in the middle but not the 2 on the sides. Just wondering if it's supposed to be like this or not. However I can put a nut on the other screws to secure it.

[azizhousecallz]

i fixed the slipping problem, just needed a really deep cleaning, and time to dry out.

NOW question is... in my RS4 3 with the OS 18 now my two spped tranny is not working. ive got good rpm's revs really high, but its not shifting into second. i checked the mesh and its perfect, with two new spur/gears i guess its got to be the clutch but how can i tell if its worn out? i have the MIP upgrade and i have changed the settings to see if i get a response but nothing. should i just replace the clutch? or is there something else that could cause it not to shift. I have not changed the factory settings on my tranny and a week ago it was changing gears just fine. so figure this one out guys! :D

[josh222]

HPI graphite bumper plate instructions

I got this and am trying to install it but fond out that it is a flat peice and doesnt have stakes that screw onto the chassis. Well actually it is secured by only 1 screw in the middle but not the 2 on the sides. Just wondering if it's supposed to be like this or not. However I can put a nut on the other screws to secure it.

that bumper plate isn't made for the rs4 3

[Zoo Tv]

Think I figured hosting out.....

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/3785/rs418ss0018bb.th.jpg (http://img292.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs418ss0018bb.jpg)

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/1936/rs418ss0039al.th.jpg (http://img292.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs418ss0039al.jpg)

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/3787/rs418ss0022sx.th.jpg (http://img292.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs418ss0022sx.jpg)

[Zoo Tv]

And this view..

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/4400/rs418ss0057xm.th.jpg (http://img292.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs418ss0057xm.jpg)

[M3EVOlution]

that bumper plate isn't made for the rs4 3
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUT52&P=7

[oswald]

that last pic - what shock towers are those? how do they affect handling? part number and mfg would be very helpful...

also - thanks to my .18 os I just stripped the 1st gear completely... does anyone have any clue what part number is this ? i bought the 2spd tranny kit since my rs4 was 1 speed when i got it... thanks fellas

[josh222]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUT52&P=7
ya and notice that is a rs4 1 or 2

[josh222]

that last pic - what shock towers are those? how do they affect handling? part number and mfg would be very helpful... Those are the graphite parts, there a lot stiffer and have more shock mounting holes

[Zoo Tv]

that last pic - what shock towers are those? how do they affect handling? part number and mfg would be very helpful...

also - thanks to my .18 os I just stripped the 1st gear completely... does anyone have any clue what part number is this ? i bought the 2spd tranny kit since my rs4 was 1 speed when i got it... thanks fellas


Standard HPI part. Don't have the number, but here is the link at Tower....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDHK8&P=7

BTW, a mate has crashed the car today due to the throttle servo horn stripping and the throttle staying open!! Luckily (!) it was front on, but the chassis in front of front diff has bent upwards, how should I bend it back down???

Cheers,

PS - rear graphite tower is new, haven't had time to do enough testing - not now as car is being repaired again anyways!!

[Zoo Tv]

that last pic - what shock towers are those? how do they affect handling? part number and mfg would be very helpful...

also - thanks to my .18 os I just stripped the 1st gear completely... does anyone have any clue what part number is this ? i bought the 2spd tranny kit since my rs4 was 1 speed when i got it... thanks fellas

Firstly I would say the gear mesh was not tight enough (best to follow the instructions which say rotate a piece of standard a4 thickness paper through the gears, then adjust relatively tightly so the paper can be rotated out).

As for the part numer, you can find these on HPI's website - standard spur gears in the 2 speed are 43 (smaller gear - HPI part # 76843) and 47 (larger gear - HPI part # 76817).

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

[azizhousecallz]

i have an OS 18 in my RS4 3 w/ pull start. its been running fine but now its blowing off oil onto my one way bearing pass the shaft were my back plate bolts up. the back plate is tight (is it normal for there to be some play in the shaft about a mm) its because of this play that the fuel seems to be making its way into the pull start housing and causing my pull start to slip.
what can i do to fix this problem? :confused:

[MT2 owns you]

it was front on, but the chassis in front of front diff has bent upwards, how should I bend it back down???
if its only a little bent, i would use a vice, otherwise, i would just buy a new chassis since i would think the aluminum might just snap off. i might be wrong though.

[M3EVOlution]

ya and notice that is a rs4 1 or 2
Man that sucks! They stated that it'll fit every other rs4 car. Also the picture makes the bumper plate look exactly like mine.

btw, i called them up and told them the story but all they said was that hpi gave them those "product descriptions" before the rs4 3 was out and how it wasnt their fault for me getting the wrong product. They need to update their descriptions and sht. Thats bs cause I spent 11 bucks for something i dont even need. Fuk tower :( :mad:

[Silent Night]

http://www.hobbyoutlets.com/hotbodies/parts/images/hbsc0113.jpg

Thats what you needed. They are pretty rare now that they are discontinued... you can try looking on ebay for them..

I just searched google for them and found a shop that might have them in stock!

http://www.cathobby.com/index.php?crn=273&rn=9266&action=show_detail

:D

[KronicRacer]

Standard HPI part. Don't have the number, but here is the link at Tower....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDHK8&P=7

BTW, a mate has crashed the car today due to the throttle servo horn stripping and the throttle staying open!! Luckily (!) it was front on, but the chassis in front of front diff has bent upwards, how should I bend it back down???

Cheers,

PS - rear graphite tower is new, haven't had time to do enough testing - not now as car is being repaired again anyways!!

i have those and they are pretty good

i still preffer the old hotbodies configuration IMO.

[Silent Night]

Nvm... The one I posted was for the pro 3.... The rs4 3's would have 2 purple posts and purple washers...

[modifiedrs4evo3]

I have a Question i might get the .18 cvr slide carb it well be fast when i get it after i breakin but what wud be good gear ratios?

[azizhousecallz]

i have an OS 18 in my RS4 3 w/ pull start. its been running fine but now its blowing off oil onto my one way bearing pass the shaft were my back plate bolts up. the back plate is tight (is it normal for there to be some play in the shaft about a mm) its because of this play that the fuel seems to be making its way into the pull start housing and causing my pull start to slip.
what can i do to fix this problem? :confused:


:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
whats the deal guys ? i cant get no love in here or what??

[MT2 owns you]

I have a Question i might get the .18 cvr slide carb it well be fast when i get it after i breakin but what wud be good gear ratios?
just so you know you will need a starter box and new flywheel and mounts with that engine.

[Truenofan]

im currently looking to the market for a nice rc car. im looking at this one due to its customizability and availability of parts for it. im just wondering what kind of tools am i going to need to assemble it, how much its going to cost, and where i can buy them.

[josh222]

im currently looking to the market for a nice rc car. im looking at this one due to its customizability and availability of parts for it. im just wondering what kind of tools am i going to need to assemble it, how much its going to cost, and where i can buy them.


If you want a rs4 3 18ss kit you looking at about 300USD for the car and another 50usd for a radio. to build them all you need is screw driver, a hobby knife, a few sockets, allens keys and plyers. there are also ready to run cars

[Truenofan]

If you want a rs4 3 18ss kit you looking at about 300USD for the car and another 50usd for a radio. to build them all you need is screw driver, a hobby knife, a few sockets, allens keys and plyers. there are also ready to run cars

i dont mind the 300, nore the 50, all i really need is the parts, im in the middle of nowhere, there arent any real tool stores around where i am, fort drum new york, im 15-30min from canada.

[josh222]

well, www.towerhobbies.com is a good place to buy the stuff.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJKT1&P=ML

for a radio how much do you want to spend and try posting this in the nitro fourm, there are more people there

[Truenofan]

not over 100, i figured i can get a good one under 100, im not insanely rich, im army enlisted and i make 600 every two weeks.

[josh222]

not over 100, i figured i can get a good one under 100, im not insanely rich, im army enlisted and i make 600 every two weeks.


for 100 you can get a nice radio and for 300 you have a few car options, i would post this in the nitro fourm since you can get more opinions and more people to help :)

[M3EVOlution]

Hi, are there any products that can replace my 4 cell AA receiver battery pack? I'm just tired of always replacing the batteries.

Also, what failsafe should I go with? Venom? Thanks

Also what ball studs could I use for my turnbuckles? I think I found some purple ones from tower but they were for the pro 3.

[Truenofan]

if i can get one for under 200, would that be a deal josh?(w/o radio, but with a buncha other stuff) oh and i tried starting a thread for my question, but it wouldnt let me.

[josh222]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1905759#post1905759

check that post out

[Truenofan]

thx it wouldnt let me

[Dirtydeeds]

Hi, are there any products that can replace my 4 cell AA receiver battery pack? I'm just tired of always replacing the batteries.

Also, what failsafe should I go with? Venom? Thanks

Also what ball studs could I use for my turnbuckles? I think I found some purple ones from tower but they were for the pro 3.

try this
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=0 or this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT2&P=0. hump pack fits stock while flat fits graphite upper deck

[BLAK_FOX]

Hi

Last week my sts engine stripped the rear final gears and I already installed the heavy duty ones. But my question is : Do I have to put shims somewhere to adjust the gear mesh between the conical gear and the big round gear and compensate the difference in size between the stock gears and the heavy duty ones? :confused:

[Dirtydeeds]

Hi

Last week my sts engine stripped the rear final gears and I already installed the heavy duty ones. But my question is : Do I have to put shims somewhere to adjust the gear mesh between the conical gear and the big round gear and compensate the difference in size between the stock gears and the heavy duty ones? :confused:
did the instructions mention anything? in other vehicles I've shimmed the pinion(conical) a bit to run a bit on the tight side. then while running it would loosen up a bit to a perfect fit. the shims would go on the pinion shaft directly behind the gear.

[BLAK_FOX]

did the instructions mention anything? in other vehicles I've shimmed the pinion(conical) a bit to run a bit on the tight side. then while running it would loosen up a bit to a perfect fit. the shims would go on the pinion shaft directly behind the gear.

No, they came with no instructions. And the instructions of the ss kit did not show any shims I also downloaded the 18ss kit instructions, because the 18ss kit include the hardened gears as a standard part, but the file didnt work. :mad:

[Dirtydeeds]

No, they came with no instructions. And the instructions of the ss kit did not show any shims I also downloaded the 18ss kit instructions, because the 18ss kit include the hardened gears as a standard part, but the file didnt work. :mad:
I went to the site and looked at the instructions for ya. It doesn't show any shims on the pinion gear. The only shims they show are on the spider gears. Hope this helps.

[BLAK_FOX]

I went to the site and looked at the instructions for ya. It doesn't show any shims on the pinion gear. The only shims they show are on the spider gears. Hope this helps.

Thanks, there is not too much play at all so i will not use any shims.

[josh222]

you don't need shims but some people do, it gets rid of the slop from the drive cup from moving back and forth

[trw]

hello all

Im going to be selling my Rs4 3, I want the money to spend on my real Jeep (possibly a lift if I get enough) so I was composing everything thats going with it.

I came here to ask what a decent price would be for my vehicle (suggestions in other words)

list of whats to be sold
the car (ofcourse) with 2 bodies (BMW M3 and Honda NSX)
3 sets of wheels, rubber slicks, fairly new set of foams, and a used set of foams
spare setup parts (IE: pre-load clips, extra gears, sway bars etc...)
and ofcourse the radio, car and engine manuals

the car has the following modifications:

OS .18 CVRX engine
RD Logics Tur