HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[Zoo Tv]

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/3308/rs4318sswithcarbon0019vr.th.jpg (http://img122.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs4318sswithcarbon0019vr.jpg)

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/1600/rs4318sswithcarbon0039vh.th.jpg (http://img122.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs4318sswithcarbon0039vh.jpg)

http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/4101/rs4318sswithcarbon0049cc.th.jpg (http://img108.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs4318sswithcarbon0049cc.jpg)

Radio install rather crude as I have just installed the carbon upper deck and am about to remove the receiver for a Savage 4.6 I am picking up tomorrow. Would purchase a new receiver but 27mhz FM 3 channel receivers are rather expensive in OZ!

[apollo]

very carbonized...i likee, nice bright yellow balloon btw, if that is a balloon

[Zoo Tv]

Yeah its a balloon! Not properly installed yet, will get the Savage running and shelf the RS4 until I order a new receiver.

[apollo]

how exactly do you "properly install" a bright yellow ballon? :D

[Zoo Tv]

mine can be stubborn starting sometimes with the throttle return spring on, but when i take it off, it wants to rocket down the street when it starts so i have to be quick to put it back on, and if your not getting enough power off of the line, you need to adjust your lsn, sounds like it all working fairly nicely though

Whoah!, sounds like your putting extra pressure on the clutch and need to go through what I have fixd this morning!

[Zoo Tv]

how exactly do you "properly install" a bright yellow ballon? :D

LOL! Its a gaggle of cables under there, the battery is taped on (need to get a stick pack!). Bit of tidying up to do!

[apollo]

how long do your foams last

[Zoo Tv]

First set. Taken it out 3-4 times. Hardly worn. What do you run? Foams or rubber?

[apollo]

i run rubbers, right now i am just using the stock d-compounds, they provide alot of use but not too good of grip, i guess its one or the other, but i will purchase new ones soon, pro-compounds this time

[Shawneboy]

Hi guys, I'm still pretty new to the hobby, but I'm very hungry for info so I can keep going with this. I run an hpi rs4 3 evo. I'd like to start upgrading it so I can take it to the local track and not get destroyed and laughed at by the competition :D I've listed some general questions I'd like to know more about and hopefully you guys can help me out on them.

I've done some reading, looks like the first big thing is to get a new engine and tuned pipe. I'm on a budget so I can't buy the most fancy parts but hopefully some of you guys know some good engines and pipes that are high quality for a good price. What would you guys reccomend?

I was checking out an OS .12 CV-R, good price on it. Will this work in my car? Will I need special mounting parts? As far as a new engine goes, I would really like to stick to the roto start method since I'm most familliar with it. Can this be done on this engine? Or is this engine no good for a car?

Next I notice a lot of your cars have turnbuckles instead of the stock bodyposts. What is the gain from the turnbuckles?

What exactly do sway bars do? And why would one want to install them?

Another big thing I noticed is that most of you switched to a new chassis. What is the upgrade here going to do?

What is the big gain with the graphite shock towers over the stock ones?

How does a performance air filter make your car faster?

I think I'll end with these. Sorry if I seem a bit overzealous, I'm just very eager to learn. Thanks for your help :)

[apollo]

learning is always good, i will answer all of these to the best of my knowledge.

To be race legal, i beleive your engine has to be a 3 port with a non-turbo pipe, im not sure about the engine but i would look for something like the hpi .12r xs, it should take you a long ways.

If you want to reduce weight to the maximum (graphite also plays a small role) you will use a starter box instead of a roto start, with takes som weight off of the car.

The chassis you are referring to is the hpi 7075 aluminum 3mm super chassis which i think is a little lighter and alot stiffer for better handling consistency.

Graphite shock towers will slightly reduce the weight of the car (not by much) but will make it alot stiffer for better handling consistency.

The high performance air filter serves 2 purposes, 1. is to protect your engine for engine-degrading dust and dirt, if you dont know this by now, NEVER RUN AN ENGINE WITHOUT AN AIR FILTER, even the tiniest amount of dirt can cause significant damage, and the 2nd thing a performance air filter does is allow more air into the engine to increase power (plus they look cool) the stock air filter for the evo is tiny and underprotective.
i hope this cleared it up a little for you

[M3EVOlution]

Damn guys running their nitros....where do you live. Cali? Over in illinois it's 30F

[apollo]

is it me or does it seem like everything awesome is in california?

[Zoo Tv]

I'm in Sydney, Aus and its a balmy 29C. Must be cold there M3EVO?

[apollo]

I'm in Sydney, Aus and its a balmy 29C. Must be cold there M3EVO?
i thing thats around 83*F, zoo tv, have u ever even felt weather below 30? or 0? (F) how cold does it get down there

[M3EVOlution]

Oh wow that's awesome! I can't even get my car started in this weather.

[Zoo Tv]

i thing thats around 83*F, zoo tv, have u ever even felt weather below 30? or 0? (F) how cold does it get down there

Mate, a cold Sydney day at this time of year (bear in mind its our Summer) is around 19C (63F). The coldest night overall in 2005 was 5.1C (41F). Lurvly place to live!

BTW, Near Years day reached over 44 in the middle of the City (almost on the ocean!) which is 111F!!!! - Off topic though......

[apollo]

you lucky peice of crap:D lol, j/k, wow it got really hot on New Years, i think it was around 40 (F) here

[josh222]

i am in ontario canada, cold winter of up to -20C with the wind and summer days of in the 40+C :eek:

[Zoo Tv]

i am in ontario canada, cold winter of up to -20C with the wind and summer days of in the 40+C :eek:

Wow Josh, what a range of temps!!

[josh222]

i live in a big city so lots of hot smoggy humid days

[1 savage]

Can anyone please advise as to what THS manifold will fit an OS 18tz-t engine. Please provide stock number. Thanks.

[josh222]

ths does not make one for a small block engine

[Zoo Tv]

Spent a few hours straightening the chassis on my 18SS (after a prang) and decided to refit the body holders. Whilst at it, gave the GT40 body a makeover. Went for an old Group C Le Mans style rear end by removing the stock "spoiler" and fitting the optional.

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/8417/rs4318sswithnewwing0011zw.th.jpg (http://img113.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs4318sswithnewwing0011zw.jpg)
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3125/rs4318sswithnewwing0021cf.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs4318sswithnewwing0021cf.jpg)
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2941/rs4318sswithnewwing0039ib.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs4318sswithnewwing0039ib.jpg)
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2679/rs4318sswithnewwing0047jp.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rs4318sswithnewwing0047jp.jpg)

The new "rear end" also gives much better access for the roto start. Previously had to bend the body a fair bit.

[rshooch]

hi all i just bought a rs4 3 evo and was wondering whats a good set up for parking lot racing/bashing?? oil wait springs ect..

thanks ryan

[josh222]

no one can really say, its all up to how the driver sets it up. I run thick oil, sway bars and foam tires but that may not be good for bashing with

[apollo]

from what i know, thick oil allows the shocks to not react as quickly to bumps, thinner oil lets it it react quicker with less dampening force, softer springs allow the body to roll a little more without fliping and stiff springs are bad on really bumpy parking lots, thats all i know, nice Evo though

[josh222]

i finaly got my metal disk brake in, ordered it back in december at my lhs

[M3EVOlution]

Sorry for my ignorance, but is the brake located by the trottle servo/linkages?

[josh222]

yes, the plastic black rotor is on the back of the 2speed area

[M3EVOlution]

gotcha......lol

[apollo]

how long will those plastic (in my opinion crap) brake rotors last

[josh222]

the stock plastic brake i used lasted me over 2 years, the metal one in that pic won't wear out

[apollo]

does anyone know how to make the brakes a little less sensative when applied, mine lock up nearly instantly, i would rather not adjust the servo speed because the throttle is perfect, any ideas

[josh222]

control your brake better and loosen the nob on the brake linkage

[apollo]

ok i gotta question, i got really bored and decided to read some of the nitro TC3 thread, in one of the posts someone asked if they could fill their diffs with some shock oil instead of grease, would this work? i dont like having to take mine out sometimes and regrease them, it all kinda slings off, and they seem pretty well sealed, has anyone tried this or could anyone tell me if this would work? im thinkin 40-50wt oil, thanks

[KLH2004a]

does anyone know how to make the brakes a little less sensative when applied, mine lock up nearly instantly, i would rather not adjust the servo speed because the throttle is perfect, any ideas

What radio are you using? I have a futaba 3PM (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAG2**&P=M) and it has a switch to essentially adjust the end point for you brake travel. It is every bit as easy as adjusting your steering trim.

[apollo]

i have an Airtronics MX-3 radio, i like the throttle the way it is, so i would rather not adjust the radio, are there any ways to adjust it on the car? i might just have to adjust the radio but im trying to keep from doing that

[KLH2004a]

In which way is it too sensitive? Does is the break engaged at all when the throtle is in the neutral postion?
This is the knob (C in the diagram) to adjust the brake on the car, I am thinking you probably already know this tho :confused:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/n3ss/kn3_31.jpg

[apollo]

its just too touchy, my problem is that since its so touchy, when i barely apply the brake (with the radio) is locks up within about 3mm of movement, i have it adjusted to the best of my ability on the car, and have even cut small slits in the peice of fuel tubing to make it softer, its just too touchy, does that help clarify it? and nobody answered my shock oil in the diff cases question

[josh222]

ok i gotta question, i got really bored and decided to read some of the nitro TC3 thread, in one of the posts someone asked if they could fill their diffs with some shock oil instead of grease, would this work? i dont like having to take mine out sometimes and regrease them, it all kinda slings off, and they seem pretty well sealed, has anyone tried this or could anyone tell me if this would work? im thinkin 40-50wt oil, thanks

the diffs in the rs4 3 are not sealed and will not hold oil in it and 40-50wt is way to thin for diffs. you can use springs instead

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZT47&P=7

[josh222]

did you try loosening the black nob on the brake linkage, that will make it softer

[apollo]

im just trying to keep the gears better lubricated because i dont like regreasing them, and i have loosened the black nob on the linkage, it just makes it ingage later but still locks up with the same amount of force, sry if this is sounding pathetic but i just want it less touchy

[josh222]

you only need to put a little grease on the ring and pinion gears, the little internal spyder gears are ok

[apollo]

ok thanks, have you used that diff spring kit that you posted

[josh222]

i am using 2 plain silver ones right now but do plan on gettign that to tune my diffs

[Zoo Tv]

Josh, are you using those springs in both diffs? I have the stock spring from the 18SS in the front diff only. Tried it in the rear only and was very open to throttle oversteer.

[josh222]

yes, i like my diffs tighter, suits my driving style

[apollo]

what would be the effect if you took the spring out of the front differential

[josh222]

it will make it more lose and wit it in the rear the rears getting more of a limited slip effect which will cause the rear to break lose

[apollo]

ok i understand that, what if you just took it outta the front diff and didnt put one in the rear...

[josh222]

the diffs would send power to the wheel with no traction

[mach-5]

i usualy just do highspeed runs in my back alley and am planning on bashing on a newly paved parking lot and right now i have it with "C" clips in to give extra ground clearence. the shocks are at stock setting but it sits realy low, (without any "C" clips) like i cant even drive it without bottoming out how can i help with this, is it a good setting for the perfectly smooth parking lot?

P.S the shock are about 1 and 1\2 years old.

[apollo]

sounds like you need to rebuild your shocks, maybe get some thicker shock oil and stiffer srpings, i have mine sitting half an inch up in parking lots, 5mm if i feel brave

[josh222]

do what apollo said. i run mine at 5mm or less but i am on really clean areas

[apollo]

you might wunna check out your o rings too, dirt can be abraisive and knick them wheich allows oil to blow by, and the dirt gets all up in the shocks, if thats still not working maybe a 1-hole piston would work

[apollo]

um can anyone tell me the best way to stop understear i was bashing the other day and had to slow down to a near crawl to turn

[KLH2004a]

Do you have springs in your diffs?

[josh222]

i have springs in both of my diffs

[apollo]

i have a spring in my front diff, also running the d-compound tires, but they shouldnt be that bad at 10mph tops around a turn

[josh222]

I have them in both diffs with foam tires and i liek how the spring feel

[apollo]

would different foams in my tires help? im thinkin some stiffer foams like the yellow ones tower has

[josh222]

hard inserts will make the tire have less roll and better cornering

[apollo]

what about faster tire wear? how long does it usually take to go through some d compounds

[Shawneboy]

Think I could put an O.S. .18 CV-RX engine in my evo? It has the pull start but I would really prefer putting the roto start on it. Would this be possible? Any help is greatly appreciated.

[KLH2004a]

Think I could put an O.S. .18 CV-RX engine in my evo? It has the pull start but I would really prefer putting the roto start on it. Would this be possible? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I think the pull start gets in the way for something, so if you put a rotostart in it you will be fine, but I do not believe it fits with the pullstarter on it.

I just bought one of these for my MT, the thing has balls . . . after running it some yesterday I think I need to get a temp gauge because it seemed like it got really hot even tho I had planty of smoke coming out :confused: I guess smowk isn't everything, but then again I do not really have a clue how warm it was.

[josh222]

the cvr18 makes about 1.5hp

[SKEEZE]

I got my RS4 with the cvr18 near 70mph... its crazy fast and even faster with the super nitro wheels..


I wanna know whos running the drift kit and does it give better handling even when NOT drifting...? I am on the verge of building one and wanna know whats up..?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/skipstr71/dsfaervewrbgrtw.jpg

[KLH2004a]

What kind of temp should I be aiming for with the 12R SS, I jsut got a temp probe today.

Thanks;
Kyle

[apollo]

i dont have the engine, but 240-250 is a good area to aim for, somebody correct me if im wrong because this is what i do

[josh222]

back in the day when i used my old .12r ss i had it running good in those temp areas

[raytracer]

I'm thinking of getting into nitro. I think hpi is a good beginners kit. I dont have experience with nitro's yet so I'll be happy with a pull start with 2 speed tranny. What's the difference between the SS, Evo? Price? Should I get an rtr or the kit with engine?

[apollo]

i think they discontinued the SS version unless you are referring the the RS4 18ss, the EVO is a ready to run car with the t-15 engine (which could be better) and it already has the electronics, it runs around 300-325 typically, eiher rs4 will come with an engine, and its up to you if you want an rtr, in my opinion you should put the car together since you will have to take it apart eventually, lets you know how everything is configured, good luck choosing

p.s. im very satisfied with my RS4 18ss

[josh222]

The kits the best way to go, it costs a bit more but its worth it

[KLH2004a]

Deffinately go with the kit version. And the two biggest things you get with the kit is the .18ss and way better differential gears.

[apollo]

stock pipe and tiny air filter does kinda suck though, but it is still fast completely stock, new air filter is $15, awesome pipe $50-60

[raytracer]

Ok, so I'll check the availabality of the ss18 kit. Seems this is upgraded a bit from the evo.
I think that I'll leave it stock seeing that this might be as fast as a 19Turn electric which I'm used to. I'll see if I can have fun running a basic nitro.

[apollo]

there are tons of parts for the rs4, once you buy even one performance part, you wont be happy until the rest of the car is totally tricked out :D the only things i didnt like with the kit is the length of the fuel line they tell you to cut, small air filter, and plastic exhaust, but it still works great, good luck, i think towerhobbies has it for $307 last time i checked

[apollo]

there are tons of parts for the rs4, once you buy even one performance part, you wont be happy until the rest of the car is totally tricked out :D the only things i didnt like with the kit is the length of the fuel line they tell you to cut, small air filter, and plastic exhaust, but it still works great, good luck, i think towerhobbies has it for $307 last time i checked

[josh222]

raytracer this car is hell of alot faster than your electric on 19t motor, hehe :eek: 60mph fast

[raytracer]

raytracer this car is hell of alot faster than your electric on 19t motor, hehe :eek: 60mph fast

Not to insult rs4 3 users but its only fast for bashing and in the straight. 19,23 turn electric rc are faster in a track coz they're lighter and nimbler and faster around the corners.
My friend also told me that a centax clutch is what makes other nitro cars fast from a stand still position and shifts better, too. This is another thing that will slow down the rs4 as I think it doesn't have it. But its ok for me coz I just wana enjoy 15 mins of consistent speed even if its just as fast as a 19 turn or a mild modified electric.

[apollo]

rs4 3's can be competitive and handle very well, while i dont know if the rs4 can have a centax clutch (i guess depending on the engine) it is still fast and has the option of a racing clutch which is adjustable for more bite at takeoff, and the advantage of nitro over electric is you dont just have to be satisfied with 15 minutes of bashing, put more fuel in and your ready to go, no more battery packs

[KLH2004a]

if you are on a small tight track yeah, the electric is gonna turn better times most likely, but if you are on a bigger more open track the I would think the nitro is going to turn better times. I am sure an electric can be made to compete on the bigger track, but you are not going to get very many laps out of it . . . each is great in their own right.

[Jetskiboy77]

You can deffinitly put a Centax in the RS4 3 if you think it will make that big of a difference.

[apollo]

both have good points, each has their strongpoints, either one can be feircely competitive, i wasnt sure on centax's on an rs4 cuz im kinda a noob, raytracer, pickin up the kit soon? my bad about the double post too

[josh222]

a 19t eletric car will not do 60mph speed range, jetskiboy and i both have centax clutch

[apollo]

how much would a centax cost, and are they just for like sg shafts or what, who makes them for an rs4

[Jetskiboy77]

Hot Bodies make them, it was 30$ I think and you needed 20$ mounts. It is for the sg shaft, and last I knew you could get them at rcboyz.com

[raytracer]

Yup, each is great in its own right. The track I play is 40m x 25m semi techincal track. The fastest rc's are usually the v1rrr and mt4 with rb,nova engines for nitro and 7 turn hotbodies cyclones for electric.
I run with rs4, ntc3, v1s with kit included or os engines and its pretty equal running my 19 turn tao5. But of course I can only play for 7 mins while they whiz by me still at full speed. Thats why I want to get a cheap nitro to see if I have the patients to tinker around with nitro kits for hours which is what I see my friend doing for hourse before actually playing with his v1rrr.
I dont think I'll spend $50 for a centax clutch on my rs4 because it defeats the purpose of just starting and keeping costs down. If I do that then my friend would be right in saying that I'll just blow a lot money in it so why not get a v1rrr, mtx4 which performs better anyway.

[Jetskiboy77]

There are many better things to get with 50$ for the RS4 3 then the centax clutch, especially if you are just starting out with the RS4 3. I also find it more fun to upgrade a sport kit then to just buy a "racing" kit, as do many others who own the RS4 3.

[josh222]

lol ya its more fun, jetskiboy my ss is almost done, i didn't remember the xs being so fast :D

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh I havent ran mine in so long the only thing I can remember is my OS .18 Nmt and my xmod. Im going to dust off the RS4 3 soon enough.

[KLH2004a]

Holy mother, I was racing around a parking lot with on of my friends he was driving one of mine. Had my NMT out with an .18 CV-RX in it and the Type SS (.12R SS) Holy $h!+ the car is so slow :( I can't afford to be putting a better motor in it right now either :/

[sportmaxx91]

hey i have a ques. I just traded my stampede for an rs4 onroad. Then i looked and saw this offroad rs4. CAn i make my on road rs4 off road very easliy???

[MT2 owns you]

hey i have a ques. I just traded my stampede for an rs4 onroad. Then i looked and saw this offroad rs4. CAn i make my on road rs4 off road very easliy???
i wouldnt say its easy, but certainly not hard. what you need to convert it to rally is:

1. Slipper Spur Adapter (72230 from NMT Racer)
2. 47T 2-speed spur on slipper (76817)
3. 19T optional clutch bell (A979)
4. Rally Tires & low bounce inserts
5. Rally Shocks (A723 Aluminum, or A773 Composite) #1 pistons, 20
wt oil
6. Super Nitro Rally front kick up bumper/ skid plate (A373)
7. SNR front and rear shock towers (A373)
8. SNR rear body mounts (A373)
9. Any 200mm Rally body
10. Stiffest rally springs (6737)
11. Nitro 3 fixed steering links (85032-7) used as front upper links also (longer
than standard upper links)
12. Type SS engine mounts (if you have the RTR 3)
13. Lexan Spur Guard (from NMT bodies) (doesnt have to be lexan, i made an aluminum one)

[sportmaxx91]

ok i am going to take a look at it and see if i can do any custom things on it to make it off road

[RS4racer]

im new heres my rs4 3


http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2333/imag08285cf.jpg

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/9712/imag08299ny.jpg

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/383/imag08305xi.jpg

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9900/imag08311ea.jpg

mods are...
pretty much bone stock with...
hpi dish rims
hpi tires
racers edge filter

[KLH2004a]

that thing has some hardcore toe out going on! And the Toe in on the rear look pretty serious too, but it may be the same as stock.

[RS4racer]

yeah im going to fix it. i have 100 bucks what should i get?

[josh222]

like i said on rcu its nice, get a pipe for sure

[KLH2004a]

it has a .15fe on it still . . . I would spend the money on a new engine. If you plan on racing it save some more and get a nice .12 . . . ****, you need the 2speed tranny first, then save up some money for a nice .12 if you are going to race or an .18 CV-RX would be pretty sweet if you aren't planning on sanctioned racing.

[RS4racer]

well im thinking of racing. i race stadium trucks and the track i race at has an onroad track so probly i will race. the car still needs alot of work.

[MT2 owns you]

or an .18 CV-RX would be pretty sweet if you aren't planning on sanctioned racing.
OS .18 CVRX doesnt fit. pull start gets in the way. .12 TZ would be a much better, although more expensive, option. if he is going to race of course.

RS4racer, what is your income like? do you have a job? if you have a steady income, and you are going to race, i would suggest getting foams, adjustable shocks (composite), graphite a arms, CVD's, and graphite shock towers. i *think* that should be around 100$, but its probably more. but before you go out and spend your money, i would get a second oppinion on what you should buy from someone here, since i dont race.

[KLH2004a]

OS .18 CVRX doesnt fit. pull start gets in the way. .12 TZ would be a much better, although more expensive, option. if he is going to race of course.

RS4racer, what is your income like? do you have a job? if you have a steady income, and you are going to race, i would suggest getting foams, adjustable shocks (composite), graphite a arms, CVD's, and graphite shock towers. i *think* that should be around 100$, but its probably more. but before you go out and spend your money, i would get a second oppinion on what you should buy from someone here, since i dont race.

How hard is it to get rid of a pull starter? ;)

[apollo]

well you would have to either get a heavy roto start backplate and the assembly plus the roto start, or you could use a started box but that involves getting a new flywheel and engines mounts i beleive, and a starter box, but its best for performance and weight on the car

[MT2 owns you]

How hard is it to get rid of a pull starter? ;)
well, i guess not that hard depending how you do it. as apollo already stated, you could get a rotostart (not my personal preference). OR you could just buy a CVR which is a non pull start motor :D (its also about $10 cheaper)

[apollo]

well if your gunna seriously race, a starter box is the only way to go, roto start backplates tend to be heavy, what engine is this going on?

[Manic RS4]

OS .18 CVRX doesnt fit. pull start gets in the way. .12 TZ would be a much better, although more expensive, option. if he is going to race of course.

RS4racer, what is your income like? do you have a job? if you have a steady income, and you are going to race, i would suggest getting foams, adjustable shocks (composite), graphite a arms, CVD's, and graphite shock towers. i *think* that should be around 100$, but its probably more. but before you go out and spend your money, i would get a second oppinion on what you should buy from someone here, since i dont race.

What exactly gets in the way?
When I had my RB .12, the pullstart housing hit the rear suspension brace. A little grinding, and voila, it fit no problem.
Is it the same problem with the OS?
I'd like to know, because I've got one on the way.

[MT2 owns you]

it hits the diff case, and you need to grind a bit of it off. while it may fit with the grinding, i couldnt get it to mesh right with my 2 speed. might have been my fault, and probably was, but i just couldnt get it to fit, even after modifying the mount holes on the chassis. good luck with it.

[1 savage]

Does anyone have the stock number for the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles that will fit the rs4 3 18ss, also what weight shock oil should I use for a smooth surface? Thanks.

[josh222]

I would go with the hpi turnbuckle set as it is only 30usd and has all the turnbuckles and heavy duty ball ends. it also includes the parts needed to replace the steering center link with a turnbuckle with capured ends that makes the steering set up way better. all the Titanium turnbuckles are also anodized purple. i even have apic of them on my partly assembled type ss

http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,11321,11322,13286&pi_id=50030

http://image.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryimages/lg-38719.jpg

[apollo]

Does anyone have the stock number for the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles that will fit the rs4 3 18ss, also what weight shock oil should I use for a smooth surface? Thanks.
i would use 50-60 weight shock oil, i think stock is 35 weight, when i switched to 50 i noticed a good change in handling but wish it was a little stiffer, 60 weight should work just fine just make sure you get hte air bubbles out

[trw]

I have been running the OS 18 CVRX for over a year now and it has been a wonderful engine.

yes I had to trim the rear diffcase to get the engine to fit, but once I got taller mounts to fit a lower ratio I had to put on a thinner pullstart assembly from an Epic .18 to fit it, and so far that has given me no trouble.

as for the gears not meshing, this is somewhat true, I have to grab the heatsink and twist the engine with alot of force and tighten down the screws to get it to mesh. The force itself doesnt pose any problem on loosening the screws. I have had them come loose 3 times and stripped the 1st gear spur each time (which is a PAIN to get the C-clip off the adapter everytime)

only real problem with the OS 18 CVRX is it has alot of torque and I often find my car flying off the road everytime I hit the throttle, and I have low ratios for more top end, lowest ratios available for the RS4 3.

and its impossible to use any rubber tire with this engine, every set I've tried have been ripped right off the rims, I just cannot see anything more powerful then this being put into an rs4, its just too bad this engine is short on RPM

[KLH2004a]

and I have low ratios for more top end, lowest ratios available for the RS4 3.RPM

Any estimates on top speed with this combo?

[josh222]

the lowest ratios are red pinions and 39 and 43tooth spurs, speed somewhere in the 60's

[trw]

yep, 39 and 43 spurs, red pinions and the rs4 18SS differential gear sets.

beyond that the only thing that'll increase top end is engine RPM and tire diameter.

I havent taken the time to actually get a reading on how fast mine goes

[apollo]

im pretty sure i have asked this before without a clear answer, but what are the highest ratios i can run in my rs4 18ss for 1st and 2nd gear and still have proper mesh, im looking for the highest top speed possible and dont care if the acceleration suffers a tiny bit because i dont have the traction for it anyways, i think i can use the 43 and 39 teeth spurs but what pinions can i use?

[josh222]

the reds are the biggest 21 and 23 tooth

[apollo]

would this work with good mesh:
1st: 21/43
2nd: 23/39
thanks,
-Apollo

[josh222]

it should

[Jetskiboy77]

It wont work. Look at it this way.

21+43=64
23+39=62

The two final numbers need to add up to each other for everything to mesh right. Like 19/43 and 23/39 should be correct.

[josh222]

opps ya i thought he said 19th going with the red pinion combo :o

[Jetskiboy77]

Sureee Josh. :) :) :)

[apollo]

alright i gotta problem that i kinda need help with, i have waited weeks to drive my car again, i got it out, it ran really well, then all of the sudden it was uncontrollable, i realized the problem was the grub nut/screw thing on the front main driveshaft had came loose and was slipping on the 2 speed shaft, i thought i had it threadlocked on but it wasnt, my lhs only has more in part of an expensive kit that i dont need, and the manual doesnt tell me what size it is, can anyone tell me who makes some of those screws to fit in there so i can run again, i dont care about brand, and i cant find any on tower except traxxas ones and im not sure on the size, thanks
-Apollo

[MT2 owns you]

is this what you are looking for? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=z721&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go)

[apollo]

looks like it, the manual didnt give me a size so im not sure, thanks a million

[apollo]

ok im ordering parts online now, will this failsafe work with my radio, i have an airtronics system, wuickly, thanks
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHLV3&P=7

[MT2 owns you]

i think it will --> "Universal male and female plugs are compatible with Futaba, JR, Hitec and Airtronics Z radio systems"

wait, let me see if i can find a "better" one!

oohh...i think i found a problem with the duratrax one --> "REQUIRES: Use of NiCD or NiMH batteries, do NOT use ALKALINES Connecting between receiver and throttle servo"

here is a Venom Failsafe (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUH6&P=ML) that should definitely be compatible with your radio. i think Josh222 uses it. tower doesnt sell everything, so try going to your lhs to see what theyve got. hopefully your lhs is customer friendly like mine, see if they will maybe let you test it first to make sure its compatible.

[apollo]

how much will harder foams increase my handling? i think im gunna hold off on the failsife until i get more cash, but i'll keep that specific one in mind, i didnt realize how quickly i spend the money at tower

[KLH2004a]

i didnt realize how quickly i spend the money at tower

you and me both brother.

[Jetskiboy77]

how much will harder foams increase my handling? i think im gunna hold off on the failsife until i get more cash, but i'll keep that specific one in mind, i didnt realize how quickly i spend the money at tower


I wouldnt hold off on a failsafe, I would try to get it ASAP.

[apollo]

I wouldnt hold off on a failsafe, I would try to get it ASAP.
it wont be that long before i get some more money, so im not too concerned, by the time i get some money and get it, i will have only driven the car for the first time with its other new parts

[Jetskiboy77]

Obviously its your choice, but personally I cant run any of my cars without a failsafe in it.

[apollo]

i will get once fairly soon, since the weather isnt that fair around here, runs are few and far between, but i cant decide between the duratrax or a venom failsafe...

[josh222]

anyone should do fine but that venom one is really small and i have had mine a long time without problems

[KLH2004a]

I have been kicking around the idea of a failsafe as well, but I have the option between this Futaba reciever (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKZB3&P=0) or a seperat failsafe unit like the venom, and advantages to one over the other besides the obvious that the reciever won't have extra wireing?

[josh222]

with that receiver you better have a fatuba 75mhz transmiter and if you do go for it

[1 savage]

Hey Guys, is it ok to use 30% nitro in the 18ss engine. I'm currently using an O.S. LC3 plug. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

[josh222]

for 30% you want a cooler plug, cold plug or maybe a medium cold. look at the OS A5 and R5 and the McCoy MC8 or MC9. get a few plugs to see whats the best

[TSI]

I've got a few questions for you all, if you don't mind.

I just bought a HPI RS4 18SS. I took my time and built it exactly as the manual shows, except for one thing. When I had completed the build, I was scrounging through the box and noticed the added instructions.... Says to leave the spring out of the front diff.... Is it going to cause problems for me if I leave it in?

Also, this MAY be related, but I was driving it yesterday in the high school parking-lot and noticed that the car seems to LOVE to spin out on me.... I'm finding it hard to corner without just spinning out. I'm running the stock tires (for now), and after running MAYBE a quart of gas through the car (including break-in), the tires are almost worn completely out. Do you think I've got my suspension set-up too hard? Any ideas?

And finally, I'm wanting to do some hop-ups to the car. I know I need to replace the clutch because it's already grenaded on me twice (lol), but what is the BEST upgrade (link?)? What other upgrades are worth the money? (pipe, shocks, best tires, air filter - links are appreciated!)

I know this is long but any help you can give is MUCH appreciated... Sorry for the newB questions.

http://i1.tinypic.com/sct7v7.jpg

[josh222]

if your tires are wearing out fast you must have bad camber and toe in happening. and if you running through clutches fast make sure your brake is not rubbing. I would leave the spring in as i find without it the diff is to loose and you get more wheel spin and diff unloading onto one wheel, the one with less traction

[apollo]

I've got a few questions for you all, if you don't mind.

I just bought a HPI RS4 18SS. I took my time and built it exactly as the manual shows, except for one thing. When I had completed the build, I was scrounging through the box and noticed the added instructions.... Says to leave the spring out of the front diff.... Is it going to cause problems for me if I leave it in?

Also, this MAY be related, but I was driving it yesterday in the high school parking-lot and noticed that the car seems to LOVE to spin out on me.... I'm finding it hard to corner without just spinning out. I'm running the stock tires (for now), and after running MAYBE a quart of gas through the car (including break-in), the tires are almost worn completely out. Do you think I've got my suspension set-up too hard? Any ideas?

And finally, I'm wanting to do some hop-ups to the car. I know I need to replace the clutch because it's already grenaded on me twice (lol), but what is the BEST upgrade (link?)? What other upgrades are worth the money? (pipe, shocks, best tires, air filter - links are appreciated!)

I know this is long but any help you can give is MUCH appreciated... Sorry for the newB questions.

http://i1.tinypic.com/sct7v7.jpg
well, there is and endless amount of performance parts for the RS4, your budget typically dictates where that final line is drawn, here are some links
HPI RS4 3 Racing Clutch (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLW03&P=ML)
Motorsavers 10mm 45 degree air filter (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAN7&P=7)
HPI Threaded Shocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJFE3&P=7)
tires (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM980&P=ML) unless you want foams
RD Logics Turbo II pipe (http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=61235S&type=store) this is awesome, i have it
or THS Racing pipe (https://secure.handzon.com/itechapp/admin/checkout/?storeid=1531&prodid=37986&storereferer=http://thsracing.com/?pageid=28221)
about the oversteerin, i have had my front centr driveshaft come loose on occasion and it is COMPLETELY uncontrollable, you will also want a fuel filter for your car, its cheap insurance

edit: also, where are your tires completely worn at? i actudentally gave mine severe camber and it ate the insides up, also some harder tire inserts will help it wear more evenly, and those D-compounds are long lasting so if you wore them down that fast, there is definately a problem, as with more performance parts, there are alot i didn not list, but those are what i would go for first

[TSI]

Thank You Josh for the info.... I'll leave the spring in.

And Apollo - I really appreciate all the info, that was exactly what I was wanting and yeah, I'm wearing out the inside of the rear tires. So you are right about that too, must be too much camber. I'll see about adjusting that for the next set of tires since it's a little late for these....

Here's a pic of the rear tires.

http://i1.tinypic.com/sd3azp.jpg

:rolleyes:

[Jetskiboy77]

Thank You Josh for the info.... I'll leave the spring in.

And Apollo - I really appreciate all the info, that was exactly what I was wanting and yeah, I'm wearing out the inside of the rear tires. So you are right about that too, must be too much camber. I'll see about adjusting that for the next set of tires since it's a little late for these....

Here's a pic of the rear tires.

http://i1.tinypic.com/sd3azp.jpg

:rolleyes:


Thats way too much toe in on the rear tires if they look like that. Try to adjust your toe settings so that the tire is more evenly on the floor so you get a more even wear. I like to run toe in, and my tires do wear at an angle, but it would take much, much longer then the time it took you to do that to a hard compund tire.

[apollo]

Thank You Josh for the info.... I'll leave the spring in.

And Apollo - I really appreciate all the info, that was exactly what I was wanting and yeah, I'm wearing out the inside of the rear tires. So you are right about that too, must be too much camber. I'll see about adjusting that for the next set of tires since it's a little late for these....

Here's a pic of the rear tires.

http://i1.tinypic.com/sd3azp.jpg

:rolleyes:
mine were severely worn on the inside as yours were, then i overadjusted and gave them too much positive camber with the same effect, its hard to find that happy medium, was that enough parts for you or do you want more links?
edit: i also changed the c hubs to the ones that are at 8 degrees for a little less toe in, it saves the tires, and dont run too stiff of springs, the blue ones from hpi are best for front, and stock black ones in the back, it maikes a huge handling difference, unless your not bashing on normal roads/parking lots

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats the best set up for you, I run very different springs and dont have tire wear that bad and the car handles really good for my taste.

[apollo]

i had the purple springs in the front and the blues in the back in hopes of stiffening it up for better handling but it was too hard, on second note, might have just been temp outside effecting tires, i doubt it, it felt more controllable until i hit a slight bump in a corner around 20mph, it wouldnt stop spinning out

[TSI]

was that enough parts for you or do you want more links?



Those links were good. I went ahead and ordered all that from tower last night. :D

And yeah, more links would be great.... I want to hop this car up while I've got the cash to do so, and while it's still new.

Thank you all for the help, very nice of you. I appreciate all the tips very much.

[apollo]

if you say so...:D but it can be alotta money, unless you have alot of money i wouldnt advise getting all of this, but its a list
HPI Purple Titanium Turnbuckle Set (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,11321,11322,13286&pi_id=50030) not too much for performance, but looks and strength, couldnt find it at towerhobbies though
HPI RS4 3 graphite front shock tower (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,11321,11322,13342&pi_id=71585)
HPI RS4 graphite rear shock tower (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,11321,11322,13342&pi_id=71584)
HPI RS4 7075 aluminum alloy 3mm super chassis (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,11321,11322,13342&pi_id=135731) this is lighter and stiffer
HPI fiber brake disk (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM738&P=7) unlike stock crappy one
HPI 40mm lightweight flywheel for pullstart (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM759&P=7) good unless you want to eliminate pull start and get a starter box
the other things i would get would be the graphite upper deck (you have to get a flat pack for that), possibly the sway bars, and the graphite c hubs, and if you want more speed, the 39 tooth spur gear, good luck affording it all

[Jetskiboy77]

Get the sway bars last though. The money you spend on those could be spent on something much better in the beginning upgrading stages. Dont get the fiber disk brake. Get the metal discs from OFNA Discs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCVW3&P=7) and the [http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKD0&P=7]R40 Brake Pads.[/url] Deffinitly get the Carbon Fiber parts suggested above, and you can buy the Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles on Towerhobbies.com if you know the size, which I can find for you later if you need it. If you look good for all these items they wont hurt your wallet too bad.

[PoPRC]

I would like to know the sizes of all of the Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles for the RS4 3 EVO. What Ball cups would you use with those as well.
Thanks for the help,
PoPRC

[apollo]

im sure they are the same size as the stock ones if you have them, is this of any help?

[Jetskiboy77]

I would like to know the sizes of all of the Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles for the RS4 3 EVO. What Ball cups would you use with those as well.
Thanks for the help,
PoPRC


I will look for the exact size turnbuckles when I go home, im in school right now, but I think theyre 1.5 inches, but let me check when I go home. As for the ball cups, I think the ones from RPM are the best, and they can be found here. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB07&P=7)
Those are the color I use because it matches my truck, but if you want another color look at "Possible Substitutions" on the right side when you open the page. I think they have blue and purple as other alternatives.

[1 savage]

PoPRC, try the Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles part #2178. You may be able to locate the turnbuckles at Towerhobbies or Stormerhobbies. Good luck.

[PoPRC]

I found the turnbuckles Part# 2178 at tower but it said they were for the Pro 3 and dsicontinued.
I found these at RCboyz, Part# 2174. Will they work?
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=18401&clist=0,11321,11322,13286

[1 savage]

PoPRC, you may be able to locate the turnbuckles at Stormerhobbies. The turnbuckles are listed as a hop-up part for the rs4 type ss, so they should fit your car w/out any difficulty. Worse case scenerio, log onto the Lunsford website.

[1 savage]

Oh PoPRC, the standard turnbuckle size is approx. 4-40 x24mm and (1) 4-40 x34mm. Try to stay as close as possible to the standard size.

[Jetskiboy77]

These are the Lunsford Turnbuckles (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXY738) I use. I ordered 3 pairs to do the c hub to shock tower connection, but you will need another pair, or have to find a single turnbuckle to do the steering servo one. I use those with RPM ball cups and its a really great set up.

[PoPRC]

Cool, thanks for the help guys. I am sure I will have more questions.

[josh222]

i would recomend the hpi titanium turnbuckle set, it has all the turnbuckles and heavyduty end cups. it also includes the parts needed to take the stock center steering link and replace it with a titanium turnbuckle with capured ends that are also included, it is 29.99 on rcboyz for the whole set

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh how does it come with the extra link to make the steering mod link? Youd be able to do it with a stock one, I dont think HPI includes an extra titanium one to do it. And I hated the HPI Ball Cups, RPM baby.

[josh222]

it came with everyt hing and there not the regualr ball end there the heavy duty nylon ones.
http://image.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryimages/lg-48598.jpg

[Jetskiboy77]

Huh, I didnt know HPI included a link to do that. I did it anyway with an extra link, but thats cool that HPI shows how to do it. Learn something new everyday.

[ron1431]

so do these turnbuckles (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=18401&clist=0,11321,11322,13286) work for the rs4 3? also what rpm ball cup would you use. option 1 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALN0&P=0) option 2 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV21&P=0) option 3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV19&P=0).

[MT2 owns you]

i dont see why those turnbuckles wouldn't work for the rs4, but i do know that the turnbuckles i got are 1" and seem to fit perfectly. as for the ball cups, go for option 1.

[PoPRC]

OK, I looked into these Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles. The ones they are selling on RCboyz (Part#2174) may or may not work. Tower hobbies shows them as discontinued, but still lists them and details what sizes they are. Now according to the sheet josh posted up you need (7) 24mm and (1) 34mm. The lunsford package comes with (2) 18mm, (4) 25.5mm, and (3) 35mm. Now the Front/Rear upper arm turnbuckles need to be 45mm from ball cup to ball cup and the Front lower steering rod needs to 48mm. So, what do you guys think will these work even with the odd sizes? Or will there not be enough thread left to tune them well with the RPM ballcups?

[PoPRC]

Josh, I think it was you that said a while back that you used 4x8 sized bearings in your steering bellcranks. Where they flanged or unflanged and how many, 4of them?
Thanks.

[nitro mustang]

Yes the bearings for the stock steering bellcranks are 4x8,and you will need 4 of them.

Mike

[KLH2004a]

I used Associated 21105 "18T Bearings 4x8x3 MM"

[Jetskiboy77]

I use the Duratrax ones of the same size posted above and they work well.

[josh222]

i used regular rubber sealed bearings i got from my local shop.

[ron1431]

hey josh are u using HPI Composite Threaded Shock?

[MT2 owns you]

hey josh are u using HPI Composite Threaded Shock?yea, he is.

[josh222]

yes.

[apollo]

how often should you clean your clutch bearings, and when you do, is spraying them in nitro cleaner and then lubing them with WD-40 ok?

[josh222]

all the bearings hpi uses are sealed so you don't really need to lub them and i just wipe them off every once in a while and there fine even after almost 3 years

[PoPRC]

Is there any advantage to the composite threaded shocks over the aluminum threaded shocks? I would imagine weight is one; but what about durability?

[josh222]

the composite ones are light and very cheap to replace

[Jetskiboy77]

I would also think they are very durable.

[apollo]

has anyone ever tried using a long, empty fuel filter as an expansion chamber on the pressure line? next time im running im going to try this, and also, with the head off the engine, should it be easy to turn the flywheel a full revolution?

[MT2 owns you]

has anyone ever tried using a long, empty fuel filter as an expansion chamber on the pressure line? next time im running im going to try this, and also, with the head off the engine, should it be easy to turn the flywheel a full revolution?if i remember correctly, it should be reasonably easy, since there is no compression.

[apollo]

ok i thought i read somewhere it should be hard to turn it over with one finger on the flywheel, i thought i has worn my sleeve/piston out because i saw tiny specks of like aluminum on the plug, im starting to really not like blue thunder

[josh222]

what your talking about is called pinch, an engine at its prime will have little pinch but good seal and compression. This is the time where the engines really opens up and runs the fastest

[apollo]

i know what pinch is/does, i just wasnt sure how much resistance it would ahve at that certain point, io have nearly a gallon run through it, but when i saw the specks on the plug i took the head off to inspect and it seemed like it should ahve had more pinch, btw, i think im gunna swear off blue thunder from now on, its laying down and inpermeable blue coat onto every engine part

[josh222]

every fuel will dye the engine internals

[MT2 owns you]

every fuel will dye the engine internals
although true, blue thunder seems to be known for dying your internals blue. also, i used to use blue thunder, and IMO, its a terrible fuel. i use traxxas top fuel now (its the only other fuel my LHS has).

[apollo]

im not minding the blue color so much as the inconsistent running, even on identical days, the needles can be way off, somtimes the lsn is off by half a turn, i might be sounding stupid but i think my fuel is getting water in it even though i squeeze the bottle so there is little air

[nitro mustang]

If you have tiny specs of aluminum or metal in your engine it could be a bad bearing.I would completely disassemble and inspect everything.If the bearing is bad and you don't replace it soon enough,you will ruin the motor.

Mike

[apollo]

you know what, thats a good idea, i have nothing better to do anyhow since its raining, i think i'll go do that, i'll tell you how the bearings are, thanks for the idea

[josh222]

i once ran fuel over 1 year old and it sill ran :eek:

[KLH2004a]

i once ran fuel over 1 year old and it sill ran :eek:

5 year old fuel, still good, well still ran at least.

[josh222]

haha, i guese you stored it right

[apollo]

can someone quickly tell me how to remove my flywheel without damaging anything? the manual looks like it just sits on there, and i cant pull it off, im using some robo grips that hold evenly, and im pulling straight out without a large amount of force, anyone have some advice? lol, i forgot how i took it off last time

[PoPRC]

Knock the back of the flywheel with a pair of plyers. A couple of good whacks should do it.

[apollo]

...wont that kinda risk bending the crankshaft? i was avoiding lateral forces on the shaft

[PoPRC]

No the crank is hardened steel, the flywheel is aluminum. I've done it alot and never damaged a crankshaft. Just a couple of knocks on the back of it will do it, you could even wrap a rag around the plyers to soften the blows if your worried about it.

[apollo]

ok thanks i'll give it a try, looks like some threadlock dripped down and kinda stuck it together

[apollo]

sorry to be posting a bit much, but is it ok to clean the one way bearing with WD-40? if not, how?

[Jetskiboy77]

Which one way bearing are you talking about? I would use WD-40 to clean mostly every bearing I have.

[apollo]

ok, well i tried WD-40 to clean most of the stuff, followed by a spray of hpi nitro car cleaner, with just WD-40 on the owb, it was slipping, so i have to go back and get the oils out of it, the bearings looked fine, and there was blue crap pasted all over the needle in the carb, i clean my air filter after every day, oil, and put back in, and i use a fuel filter...maybe i should clean it more often?

[PoPRC]

Blue Crap? Where in the highspeed needle(the tall one usually in a brass housing). The blue stuff is loctite, I dont see why there would be some on any of the needles in your carb. Make sure you clean it out good. Cleaning the fuel filter is a good idea just make sure that you put it in the correct way because there still might be extremely small particles that can still get into the engine if you put it back, in the wrong direction.

[apollo]

I meant the needle inside the carb if i confused anyone, yes there was a nice pile of crap sitting on top of it that looked like dirt, i clean the fuel filter and make sure there is nothing in it, i clean the air filter after each day of running, i make sure everything is out of it then oil it with slightly more than needed for extra protection, and i even have a zip tie holding it on the carb, so nto sure how it got there, in taking apart the engine, i found out i had a bad clutch bearing which was causing it to move when at idle (it was fine the run before???) both bearings were fine, i flished them with WD-40, along with all the other internals, then coated them in ARO and assembeled back together, i also put the owb in backwards, but the cord wouldnt go back in until i loostened the screws, then it popped back in, thanks PoPRC for the flywheel removal methos, you made me feel stupid, but thanks again :D

[PoPRC]

thanks PoPRC for the flywheel removal methos, you made me feel stupid, but thanks again :D

No problem, wasnt my intention to make ya feel stupid. Glad it worked for you. Sometimes there is stuff that you cant figure out. But thats why we are here on the forums to pass along any info and knowledge we have to help others. There isn't one of us who has all the answers. Good luck with your car.

PoPRC

[apollo]

i somehow forgot how i got it off last time, i cant get a clutch bearing because my lhs is remodeling and closed for a little bit, i tried to start it a little while ago....no luck, it would start for maybe 1/3 second, then die, it was getting fuel, glow plug was bright, pull starter was turnign the shaft, so im really not sure why it wont start, i'll give it another try in a bit, i have a feeling the WD-40 i used to clean it out is having negative effects on trying to start it...


Edit: i finally got it to start, apparently the blue crap on the needle was making me run the needle too rich, with the settings i was using before, it wouldnt get past 120 degrees, so i had to lean it out quite a bit, it seemed to run faster and be more responsive, and sound like it was revving higher too

[PoPRC]

This engine is already broken in I would presume? If you have a temp sensor use it to gauge your head temps to make sure your not leaned out to far. Check your throttle linkage to make sure the carb barrel is opening all the way at full throttle. Check this linkage with the motor not running, just pull off the air filter and and turn on the transmitter and your cars electronics. The reason I say this is everytime I yank out my engine I forget to check my throttle linkage and end up wondering for a half an hour why the car is so sluggish.

[apollo]

i know how to do all the things you have just explained, the engine is broekn in, has a gallon through it, i have a laser temp gun and with the settings i was previously using (running at 240 ish) it was only running 120 at best, i had to lean it out over 1/4th of a turn to get it over 180, the linkages are fine, lines up great, EPA's are adjusted accordingly, carb is opening up 100%, and the only thing making it ever so slightly sluggish was the fact that it was running rich, it idles perfectly with little to no change in tone or rpm, and it does not even lower rpms when full brake is applied, i also think that the longer pressure line helped smooth out the idle, i just got done shimming and lubing the differentials but cannot run it due to wet roads and bad weather, i will tell you how it runs later though

p.s. is it me or has posting in this thread gone down a little?

[Jetskiboy77]

These types of threads have their periods where there is a lot of posts and then it kind of goes dead for a while. Same thing with the NMT and NMT2 forums that I always check.

[apollo]

if this works, here is a picture of my fuel filter on the pressure return line, i just got back from running it, i noticed a major increase in acceleration (i tried with and without) and it seemed like an ever so slightly higher top speed, it also caused one of my new tires to rip itself from the rim (glued correctly with plenty of CA)

[PoPRC]

You dont need a fuel filter on your pressure line. There isn't much fuel coming back thru the pressure line to the tank. If anything I think you would be reducing the backpressure to the tank as well as decreasing the return of unspent fuel to the scavenging(boost port) thru the manifold. I'm not saying what your doing is wrong, right or that you shouldnt try. I just don't understand why.

[apollo]

it is just an empty canister as an expansion chamber, no filter screen in it, i read of someone else doing this on the forum a little while back and they seemed to have good results, so i figured why not i'll give it a try, i tried it with and without the filter on it, it ran better with the filter cansiter on it, right now im fixing some things from getting airborne

[josh222]

apollo i would recomend you turn that tank around. it makes runnign the fuel lines much easier. I had my type ss out the other day and man theres nothing like a .12 rear exhaust screaming at 40 thousand or peeling out on foam tires

[apollo]

i only had a problem with the lines in the gears once with the stock fuel lines, the manual told me to cut it shorter than it needed, so i had to route it near the gears

[MT2 owns you]

apollo, just so you know, fuel lines can be pretty much any length, and i tend to use 8" for the fuel line, and 6 for the pressure line, with a fuel filter in the fuel line. so dont hesitate to make it a few inches longer to make something fit.

[apollo]

i dont mind the length, i just wunna keep the tank facing forward so it can refuel without taking the body off (and without cutting a hole in the roof) and i have tried different lengths for the pressure line, it seemed to like the one with the empty fuel filter canister, seemed more snappy, i have found if i use a longer pressure line, it seems like its kinda holding back the engine in a weird way, but that may just be me

[1 savage]

Hey Guys, I was finaly able to remove the back plate off of my 18ss engine. Upon inspection I've dicovered there is a small gap in interior of the crank case near the top left screw hole. Is this normal?

[apollo]

what do you mean by "a small gap" i had mine apart the other day and it looked all good and nothing outta the ordinary in the crankcase, can you post a picture?

[MT2 owns you]

Hey Guys, I was finaly able to remove the back plate off of my 18ss engine. Upon inspection I've dicovered there is a small gap in interior of the crank case near the top left screw hole. Is this normal?
where exactly is the gap? like apollo said, can you post a picture?

[1 savage]

A piece of the crank case appears as if it has chipped away.

[apollo]

not trying to sound rude, but aluminum doesnt really chip away from anything i have seens,maybe dent or gouge, but the to left screwhole is covered by the pullstarter and in the center of the car so i would assume your pullstarter is damaged too? can you please post a pic?

[josh222]

aluminum can chip away, are you use it is not just the cutout so you can get the piston out?

[apollo]

bad call on my part, i have never seen aluminum chip, just gouge and dent, are you talking about the internal channels the air/fuel mixture flows through? or where the connecting rod nearly touches the bottom of the crankcase?

[1 savage]

Guys, I'll try to post a pic soon as I'm able to do so. I'll try to post a pic w/in the next 48hrs. I'm going to try and run the engine to see if the hole has any thing to do with my temperature problems.

[Manic RS4]

Have any of you had a chance to compete with various other cars, such as the TC3's and such?

If so, how did you make out with your RS4's?

[josh222]

i managed to race my type ss once at the end of last season. i placed 3rd or 4th in c main. there was main a-d and it was my first race ever. i know if i had more practice i could do much better.

[apollo]

will these work as clutch bearings for my 18ss?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUS8&P=7
they are the same size but are there special bearings just for clutches? sorry if its a noob question but i think they should work, also i since i am now getting income, is anybody running an O.S. .12tz in their RS4? if so how does it work, and is the modified worth the extra money? its only for bashing if that matters, i ahve foound it for like $230 for a modified, anybody know where else to get one cheaper? thanks
-Apollo

[josh222]

to get that engine in there you need new clutch, engine moiunts, flywheel, starter box, exhaust, slide carb servo saver, new airfilter, turbo glow plugs, batery and charger for starter box but if you have the money go for it. if you have an question on this ask as there is very few people on here with racing rear exhaust .12 in the rs4 3

those bearings will work.

[apollo]

uh thanks, i honestly didnt think about all that with a new engine, well can anyone make suggestions on a .12-.15 size (preferably .12 if it has the power) just for bashing, i was tihnking os because i have heard of their reliability and how they run strong and are easy to tune, but what other engines could rev to or past 40,000rpm because im all about the top speed, i hope to keep the price below $200, and thanks about the bearings, im gunna order them tonight

[josh222]

the hpi .12r xs i have has plenty of power for a .12 and revs very nice and i have mine paired with a centax

http://image.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryimages/lg-38717.jpg

[apollo]

what ia the top rpm of that engine? do you know? what size air filter is that and just wondering, how do you adjust a centax, i dont have enough money for a starter box so are there any powerful high revving engines that are a pull start? sorry about being picky, but i have limited money, probably only enough for an engine and little extra, any really good engines with side exhaust? btw, cool engine

[josh222]

cvr 18 is a good choice

[fusionrr]

Anybody know the max rpms for a nitro star 15 ABC?
I just wanna compare to my s25 which apparently has max rpm at 38k..
Thanks

[josh222]

the s25 might rev to 30,000 if your lucky the 15fe about the same and the t15 low 30,000rpms

[fusionrr]

So with the s25 in my rs4 3 evo i'll have far too much torque :D and no gain in top speed :( unless i change my diff gears to 18ss heavy duty and my pinions to red, and my spurs to 39 and 43, oh and my 2 speed will probably disintegrate.. maybe a wolfpack 2 speed is needed.. Anything else I can do to make use of the torque I have?

I have driven it already with the s25 and a shortened pipe. bottom end is insane. wheelspin is easy. light on the throttle gets extreme acceleration. I really should fit some foams on.. the top end is crap though. Haven't tuned the carby yet (no fuel left..) and the pipe i'm using is kinda small (1/10) might try my ribbed pipe.. the little 75cc tank has been replaced with a 125cc which i had on there before i swapped engines... so fuel can almost last the same amount of time.. no damage to the drivetrain yet :)

[apollo]

dude you dont need anything larger than a .18 in an rs4 to make it fast, i know people who have ran the 43/39 combo in the 18ss and it has insane top end and good acceleration, there is no use in having so much power the wheels spin all the way to top speed, if you want torque and power i would suggest an O.S. .18TZ, that should ahve more than enough horsepower for an rs4

[M3EVOlution]

hey guys...

I need fuel but the hobby shops around here do not carry HPi 20%(the first gallon I ran through my engine).

What they do have is Blue thunder fuel, monster fuel, and traxxas fuel. Does anyone here use anything other than HPI fuel? Should it be fine if I use one of these? If so, which should I get? Thanks

[tsais]

http://tsais.com/products/exhaust/tunedpipes/10/E1020/DSC04017.jpg
Just wondering if anyone has tried this pipe and have any feedbacks? Thanks.

[apollo]

m3evolution, i wouldnt get blue thunder if you can help it, when you say monsterr fuel do you mean trinity monster hp? if not then i havent heard of it, i use trinity monster hp 25% and it starts easily and runs great

[rcnut143]

Ive used Wildcat 20% in the past and had good luck. Trying O"donnells now 20%

[apollo]

tsais, how well does that run? because i dont see a pressure line on it....it would have to be a rather long line too, why not just go with a normal side exhaust?

[tsais]

tsais, how well does that run? because i dont see a pressure line on it....it would have to be a rather long line too, why not just go with a normal side exhaust?
The RS4 3 you see in the photo is a demo car without radio gear.

It runs very well, besides it will direct the exhaust to the back of your car so you will have a clean car after every run, but I don't want you to take my word for it. Check out the video clip on the E1019 product page (http://tsais.com/products/exhaust/tunedpipes/10/E1019.html)
Although we are showing you how it runs with the MT2, but you can still get an idea about how it will run with the RS4 3 since they share almost same everything except for the suspension and 2-speed transmission. I believe that you can already see a picture of a flying RS4 3... :rolleyes: I hope this helps.

[josh222]

if you could offer this pipe to people like me who have rear exhaust engines in there rs4 3 i would be all over this pipe

[tsais]

if you could offer this pipe to people like me who have rear exhaust engines in there rs4 3 i would be all over this pipe
Here you go...
http://tsais.com/techsupport/E1020/E1020rearexhaust/IMG_1943m.jpg
I use a E804OS18 header (http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rchub&Product_Code=E804OS&Category_Code=manifolds), EA06 silicone tube (http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rchub&Product_Code=EA06&Category_Code=exhaustacce) and a piece of curved aluminum tube to connect the header and pipe.

[tsais]

http://tsais.com/techsupport/E1020/E1020rearexhaust/IMG_1945m.jpg

[josh222]

:eek: :eek: :D and it looks like it will even clear my graphite shocktower :D

[apollo]

anyone looking to replacement brakes for their rs4 shoudl DEFINATELY use the R40 brake pads and the hyper 7 brake discs, i just put this on my car and wow, these brakes are fantastic, little touchy (2mm on controller locks up and you cant turn them for the life of you) but awesome, and it looks cool too

[josh222]

i run this brake, it was like 14bucks...

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/parts/w_hb61132_01.jpg

[apollo]

well i got 2 brake discs for like $5.69, brake pads were a little over $2.50, so not bad, hows that one work?

[Manic RS4]

Won't you upset the balance of the car with that rear exhaust setup?

[apollo]

not likely, pipes weight next to nothing, the header would be the heaviest at maybe 1-2 ounces, but if your concerned i think they make some weights that are specifically designed for racing rc's

[Manic RS4]

It might not seem like much to your average human, :) , but to a little 7 pound car, I dunno.

Looks cool, though the extra long pressure line would kind of ruin the look.

On a side note, I finally broke in my epic .18 motor, and got to drive it at WOT today.

All I gotta say is WOW!!! The engine hauls!
Too much torque. Too much horsepower.
No traction. (even on straightaways) No control.
It's awesome!