HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0 [Archive] - Page 2

TeeGeeRacer

06-17-2003, 11:40 PM

I feel that any decent car can be made to be competitive with the right effort. But no matter what you'll always need good tuning and driving skills. Some cars though don't need as much effort as others do though.
I'm thinking about going over the top again with another car again to bash with. There's a new Tamiya chassis, the TGS, that I'm looking into. Either that or I can get one of my dream cars, a Tamiya TGR. This car has got to be one of the prettiest chassis' I have ever seen. The top of the included engine is almost level with the top of the tires. Box stock, it's capable of 63 MPH. Lovely huh?
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/44030tgr/tgr1.jpg

liquidforrest

06-18-2003, 12:20 AM

that is flat as paper :eek: remindes me of an 1/8th scale?

TeeGeeRacer

06-18-2003, 01:54 AM

It's a superten. HPI has the Super Nitro. Kyosho has the FW04. Tamiya has this. Tamiya does call it a 1/8th scale though.
Makes me wish HPI would update the Super Nitro. Ever realize the SN is the last of the original NRS4-based cars? I love my RS4-3 alot but if it were a super-sized car it would be more ideal as a basher.

liquidforrest

06-18-2003, 02:28 AM

the Super Nitro rally is updated to atleast using shaft drive

KronicRacer

06-18-2003, 11:02 AM

all you would have to do is switch the shocks out and the towers and you would have a touring car. or would there have to be more mods done?

BlueBeast8-Port

06-18-2003, 11:26 AM

Hello, what is faster stock. An rs4 3 ss or a tc3? Also How fast? My rs4 3 ss is all stock. what should my first upgrade be? thanks.

BlueBeast8-Port

06-18-2003, 01:13 PM

Hello. The 12 r ss engine. I am having a lot of trouble breaking it in. Should it normally start on the first pull during break in and run til the tank is done or should i be pulling for about 1 hour to get it started and quit on me? Is there something wrong with my engine. It acts weird. i want to send it back to HPI to get another, because I know they are very reliable and great running engines and mine just is not. How do i contact them? thank you.

BlueBeast8-Port

06-18-2003, 02:00 PM

Hello, if my 12 r ss should i get another or a different? what is a better and more reliable and quicker engine? thanks

rico750sxi

06-18-2003, 03:28 PM

I'm very happy with my Fantom FR15. Easy to tune and very powerful.

liquidforrest

06-18-2003, 04:20 PM

Blue beast: My .12Rss started just fine, but if you can't get it running email frank@hpiracing.com and ask where to send it or look on thier website for more info. As far as a new engine, are u planning on racing or just bashing? I have the .12Sirio outlaw that absolutley FLYS. but its a rear exhaust non-pullstart engine.

Anton-C

06-19-2003, 01:22 AM

hi guys,
i recently purchaced a xxxnt, and it has made me obsessed with nitro cars, and now i am looking at the rs4 3 type ss, i am saving my pennies to purchace one of these (hopefully at the end of the summer) and i was wondering if there are any hopups that i absolutly need to either build in to the kit, or just have on hand, this is going to be a parking lot basher (i have my xxxnt to race) i will proably get the fiber brake disk, because i dont like the idea of a plastic one;) is there anything else i should get?

oh and will os8 glowplugs work in the stock engine, because thats what i use anyway;)

racerdave

06-19-2003, 08:35 AM

My son and I are putting this kit together. We have only had 2wd stadium trucks till now. I have a few questions.

1. How much/how little grease is needed on the spyder and ring and pinion gears inside the diffs?
I can see where not enough can cause gear overheating, too much can cause sluggish performance? Is all this correct?

2 What does the liitle spring between the spyder gears inside the front diff do?

3 When adjusting the shift point, the initial setscrew setting is 3 turns out {86050b black spring 12r ss motor**. Is there a general rule of thumb that it should shift out at xx feet? Or can you hear the motor rpm change as it shifts and do you just adjust for a clean pull without bogging?

Thats it for now. Thanks, I'm sure I'll be back.rd

fastharry

06-19-2003, 09:28 AM

Originally posted by racerdave
My son and I are putting this kit together. We have only had 2wd stadium trucks till now. I have a few questions.

1. How much/how little grease is needed on the spyder and ring and pinion gears inside the diffs?
I can see where not enough can cause gear overheating, too much can cause sluggish performance? Is all this correct?

2 What does the liitle spring between the spyder gears inside the front diff do?

3 When adjusting the shift point, the initial setscrew setting is 3 turns out {86050b black spring 12r ss motor**. Is there a general rule of thumb that it should shift out at xx feet? Or can you hear the motor rpm change as it shifts and do you just adjust for a clean pull without bogging?

Thats it for now. Thanks, I'm sure I'll be back.rd

theres a GREAT giude on HPI's website for tuning..go to the FAQ section,follow the link to tuning..

this is out of the level 2 section.....

What it does: Whether your car is equipped with Ball Differentials or Gear Differentials, these can be adjusted to help fine-tune your car’s handling. You can tighten the differential to get less traction from that end of the car or loosen it to get more traction.

How to change it: To change this setting depends on the type of differential you have. For ball differentials, the change is easy. Just tighten the screw that holds the differential together to tighten the differential and loosen this screw to loosen the differential. With gear differentials, it is a little harder. You have to remove and take apart the differential then seal it using o-rings. You will then fill the gear differential with thick differential grease. The thicker the grease you use, the tighter the differential will be. These greases are rated by their weight much like shock oil but with weights being about 30,000, 50,000 and 100,000 with other weights in between.

When to change it: If your car is a little loose in the turns, you can tighten the front differential or loosen the rear. If it wants to push when turning, you can loosen the front differential or tighten the rear.

Tips: Be sure not to loosen ball differentials too much as they will start to slip and the friction created by the balls slipping against the differential rings will melt the plastic pulley the balls are in.

Cost: Free if you have ball differentials and just a few dollars for gear differential grease.

================================================== ================================================== ================================================== ==================================
not bad,right?...the whole section is great..

believe it or not,the grease helps lubricate the gears,and also helps them from "diffing"...the term used when one wheel is stuck and the free wheel gets the power..thats the purpose of the front spring in the diff..it helps lock both wheels in a cornering situation,and pulls the car through corners...you'd
be suprised how much you can change cornering traits by adding silicone fluids to the diffs(later on)....the idea of the spring is to give you the same pulling action w/o the mess of silicnes..HPI makes a diff spring kit with differnt tensions.....I use the spring,and add silocone to my ss...but for now,keep it simple..add a half tube to each diff,and the front spring..

you'll know when to adjust the 2 sp....you want it shifting as first gear nears its peak.....

REX RS4-3SS

06-22-2003, 03:12 PM

Here is my Type SS.

Mods:
MIP CVD's
HPI Graphite upper deck and graphite shock towers
HPI threaded shock set and sway bar set(Green front purple rear)
Fantom fr15 03 with slide carb
HPI lightweight flywheel
HPI threaded pinions 19T/41T First 23T/37T Second
THS tuned pipe/header set for Rs4 3
Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles
RPM heavy duty ball ends
Hot Bodies graphite bumper support
HPI fiber brake

Let me know what you guys think:)

KronicRacer

06-23-2003, 03:24 PM

nice setup...

BigDaddyT

06-23-2003, 04:33 PM

Originally posted by racerdave
My son and I are putting this kit together. We have only had 2wd stadium trucks till now. I have a few questions.

3 When adjusting the shift point, the initial setscrew setting is 3 turns out {86050b black spring 12r ss motor**. Is there a general rule of thumb that it should shift out at xx feet? Or can you hear the motor rpm change as it shifts and do you just adjust for a clean pull without bogging?

Thats it for now. Thanks, I'm sure I'll be back.rd

I just went through the process of tuning up the 2 speed on my new SS and thought I'd pass along a couple of things I learned along the way:

Break your engine in and get it running nice and consistently first. I was a bit of an idiot - I got everything set up running 10% Nitro Fuel and then decided to go up to 20% and had to do it all again.

Start with the screw turned in quite a bit - so that you don't have to second-guess yourself to decide if you're in First or second gear.

Get your car warmed up, and then accelerate consistently, if you don't hear/see the shift, bring it in and loosen up the screw 1/4 of a turn and try again. Do this until you see the shift - it will be pretty obvious when it happens.

I've found that I have to keep playing around with it.... depending on track conditions, etc. you will want to adjust your shift point so that you get a nice shift right as your engine revs up in the straightaways.

BigDaddyT

06-23-2003, 04:48 PM

I got an RS4-3 SS about 6 weeks ago, and I'm finally through the break-in, and learning curve to the point where I can handle it reasonably well. It's a great car, loads of fun, all that.... you guys already know all that stuff.

What I'm wondering is how long I can expect the tires to last? It looks like I'm almost through the set of X patterns that came with it. Admittedly, as I've been getting cockier, I've done some burnouts and smokeshows and all that... how much does that contribute to early tire wear, or is a month or so pretty much average life for a set of tires no matter what?

T

liquidforrest

06-23-2003, 06:30 PM

Big Daddy, the tires wear soo fast because the inserts are cheap and wears too fast, good tires with good inserts will last a little longer

TeeGeeRacer

06-23-2003, 08:16 PM

Nice car Rex. Is it just me or is it kinda fun going over the top on hop-ups even though its heavy on the wallet? How's the slide carb Fantom .15 by the way?

burning perform

06-23-2003, 10:24 PM

Okay everyone so I know that i havent been on the forums in a while but maybe you all can help me anyway. I am not really sure what is wrong with my car because when i took it apart i did not change any settings on me FR15 03 slide carb motor and now that i put it back together so I could finish break in my engine starts, rolls forward and as soon as i give it some throttle it dies. Maybe it is running too lean?? But i didn;t change any settings and it was working perfect before I touched it. Any help would be highly appreciated.

REX RS4-3SS

06-23-2003, 10:28 PM

Originally posted by TeeGeeRacer
Nice car Rex. Is it just me or is it kinda fun going over the top on hop-ups even though its heavy on the wallet? How's the slide carb Fantom .15 by the way?

It fun having a nice car even though their is nobody to race with around here.I just built it to build something and I'm pretty happy with the performance of it.I just have to figure out how to stop eating tires after 2 hours of running:confused: . I love the Fantom engine!!! It has to be one of the most reliable engines i've had.My car sat for about two weeks and I went out today and it started first pull!!It's got great performance also and holds a tune very well.I wish fantom made a .21 so I could put one in my savage because the 8 port I have now is nowhere near as reliable an engine.

burning perform

06-23-2003, 10:35 PM

supposedly fantom was making a 21 engine
along with the original 12 and 15 motors

TeeGeeRacer

06-24-2003, 03:09 AM

I've just started running on my HPI Yokohama's so I don't know how well they'll wear. I expect them to last though. All time, my best longest wearing tires (for bashing) have been HPI 27R belted slicks. I originally got these to run on my friends Nitro Open RS4-2 for the Challenge race they ran here a few years back but I ended up keeping these to play around in since I cracked the rim. I got great grip on most surfaces and they lasted forever!

racerdave

06-24-2003, 11:27 PM

The manual says to let the motor idle through 2 tanks of fuel. Will the motor keep running at idle with the recommended carb settings? How long will this take? rd

Razornmt

06-25-2003, 02:12 AM

Originally posted by TeeGeeRacer
I've just started running on my HPI Yokohama's so I don't know how well they'll wear. I expect them to last though. All time, my best longest wearing tires (for bashing) have been HPI 27R belted slicks. I originally got these to run on my friends Nitro Open RS4-2 for the Challenge race they ran here a few years back but I ended up keeping these to play around in since I cracked the rim. I got great grip on most surfaces and they lasted forever!

if it doesnt keep running give it a few blips of the throttle now and then.

idling the engine for 2tanks will take exactly 2 tanks of gas.

liquidforrest

06-25-2003, 06:56 AM

Originally posted by Razornmt

idling the engine for 2tanks will take exactly 2 tanks of gas.

HAHA that was good,

it will take you a few hours to break in the engine properly, dont rush thru it, it will hurt performance and longevity of you're engine

REX RS4-3SS

06-25-2003, 11:34 AM

You should let the car idle for 1 tank and then drive it around at 1/4 throttle for the next 2 and then 1/2 for the two after that then 2 more tanks at 3/4 to full throttle and it will be broken in.I've read on other forums that idling for 2 tanks has caused damage to peoples engines.The piston and sleeve are not seating correctly because the engine is not getting hot enough.I let my engines idle for 1 tank then I drive them around like I stated above and monitered the temps and kept them at about 200-220.7 tanks is a little more than HPI calls for but I'd rather be safe than sorry when it comes to things like this.People like to do what the manufacturer suggests but I followed these instructions on all my engines and they run perfect.I followed the manufacturer directions on my T-maxx with the trx2.5 and had to replace the piston and sleeve after a gallon of fuel(TRX2.5=junk) but I did it this way after I changed the piston/sleeve and the engine runs fine now.I did this with my 12r ss engine too and it was still running strong after 3 gallons and is Still running strong in my buddies T-Maxx and he's put at least 2 gallons threw it.

BigDaddyT

06-30-2003, 04:07 PM

Hi There,

I've been messing around with getting my .12 SS tuned up and have noticed that it actually seems to want to run a little leaner than I would have expected. From what I've read, I am assuming that 200-250F is the normal range for an engine. If I richen up my SS to run in that range, it's actually a bit sluggish.... leaning it out just a bit farther really makes it come to life, but it heats up another 25-50 degrees so I've been avoiding it.

Am I being to paranoid, or should I just lean it out?

mugenseike

06-30-2003, 10:04 PM

na you ain't being paranoid so don't worry, I'll say that the normal range of engine heat for the .12 is about 210-260 if i'm not mistaken but those extra 25-50 degrees can harm the engine so I would be a bit on the worried side but maybe if you just richen it just a little not meaning that it is on the rich side but on the average and i really do hope it's on the average and not lean that meaning that you're engine life won't die out quicker but if you can make it run in the 210-265iish range well then you'll be allright I suppose.

BigBadTahoe

07-01-2003, 12:01 AM

Sorry about this question out of no where but I had had my Savage for a few weeks and just love it. I think HPI is one of the best companies that make RC that are out there. I just ordered a micro rs4 a few days ago and hope I really like it, I should. What I wanted to ask is this will be my first on-road nitro and wanted to know if the rtr rs4 is good or whats bad about it? You know like how fast is it and what are instant upgrades? Does it have a 2-speed? Sorry just trying to learn more about on-road.:) :confused:

liquidforrest

07-01-2003, 01:27 AM

Dub, its a really good car, but you'd be more happy with the SS kit and purchase a radio. The RTR does not come with a 2-speed, has a slower engine, doesn't have adjustable turnbuckles. For bashing both will work fine, and for racing. sportsman/club racing it should work fine stock. for more serious racing, it will take a few mods to keep up. And don't say it won't whomever, cuz mine does just fine:D

BlueBeast8-Port

07-01-2003, 03:27 PM

Hello, well i did get my 12r ss running now. I had my clutch set up wrong, lol. My bad. Now that its running without any throttle it idles fast, like the flywheel isn't stopping. I know to turn the idle needle, but how much. What is good. I am still i nbreak in. I should turn it left til it stops, right? then how many full turns right? thnaks a lot guys.

shawnhpi

07-02-2003, 12:05 PM

ok ok people I may have good news.. I think im juts gonna deal with it and go get me a good radio to test out my car. U all have seen it.. Well I can't take it any more and i need to race. While i am at it.. I will finish off my car and get the rear arm bulk in ALMN, and then order center CVD's, and the wolfpack 2 speed.

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/
http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

shawnhpi

07-07-2003, 01:00 AM

UH HUH as i said i would do every one I finlay got a radio for my car...I ran one tank of break in thorugh it so far,, will finish up later in the week..

http://members.aol.com/shawnhpi/xs1.jpg

http://members.aol.com/shawnhpi/xs2.jpg

KronicRacer

07-07-2003, 01:41 PM

lookin sweet! good radio selection. hope the car has good results on your runs. keep us posted :)

REX RS4-3SS

07-07-2003, 02:45 PM

What kind of ball ends are those??? I see that they screw on instead or clip on who makes them??????

Danny Chi

07-07-2003, 10:18 PM

hey shawnhpi, you might want to tie that battery onto the upper deck, becuase I forgot to do that once, and when my battery fell out my car ran strait into a wall at 35 MPH.:D (even though it feals, and looks like the battery wont fall out, it still does, and you really dont want to break anything, especially your car)

Danny Chi

07-07-2003, 10:23 PM

for those of you who still have the stock air filter, and those who are wondering if you should throw it away.

Danny Chi

07-07-2003, 10:27 PM

(mounted)

KronicRacer

07-07-2003, 10:37 PM

what kinda filter is that? is it the stock one cut out? :confused:

KronicRacer

07-07-2003, 10:49 PM

here is ,y latest shell

KronicRacer

07-07-2003, 10:54 PM

under different light

KronicRacer

07-07-2003, 10:58 PM

and just for the heck of it

shawnhpi

07-07-2003, 11:02 PM

OK hey kron thanks.. and as for the body you posted you can send it to:

ME @

Shawn ... HAHHAHA
4419 i will finish it if you want to send me..

As for the battery yeahi know i just have that stuff placed in..

But seriously kron if u want to send me that body I would like it..

Thanks

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

KronicRacer

07-07-2003, 11:10 PM

and the last one you can drool over;)

KronicRacer

07-07-2003, 11:13 PM

Originally posted by REX RS4-3SS
What kind of ball ends are those??? I see that they screw on instead or clip on who makes them??????

i think gpm makes that set of ballends a complete set if im not mistaken

shawnhpi

07-07-2003, 11:22 PM

Come on kron don't make me BEG.. and yes GPM makes them tie rods..

Ohh and the radio is the one u said to get.. The good one with the dials on the servo. I like it so far.. and ive only ran about 1 tank for break in so far.. Hop on aim if u can!//

shawnhpi

07-07-2003, 11:27 PM

eh just for the heck of it to
And yes that is a real CF sheet

http://members.aol.com/shawnhpi/cf.jpg

http://members.aol.com/shawnhpi/cf2.jpg

BlueBeast8-Port

07-09-2003, 09:12 AM

Hello,
I have trouble once again. I am switching engines in my 3 ss and i am trying to take the clutch assembly off to put it on my new engine. I have everything off except the flywheel. Does it just pull off or is there something i need to do to get it off, because i cant pull it off? thnaks a lot.

REX RS4-3SS

07-09-2003, 11:36 AM

I use a battery terminal puller from my local auto parts store and it works great.All it is ,is a small two jaw puller but it works great for flywheels and it's cheap too.

BigDaddyT

07-09-2003, 04:44 PM

Has anyone come up with a good way to avoid scraping the screw heads off of the motor mount on the RS4-3 SS?

All of the other heads are nicely countersunk into the chassis, but the 5 that hold the SS motor mount in place are not and I keep scraping them off which is a big pain in the butt.

I've been thinking I might countersink the heads into small strips of aluminum myself, but surely there must be a better solution....

KronicRacer

07-09-2003, 10:24 PM

well this is the problem with the stock chassis there are 2 possible solutions (there are more but i cant think of any for the moment).

one get allen head screws or
two get the super chassis

that or tape the thick stuff..... personally i would go with the super chassis a very good upgrade and it has countersunk slots for the screws just like every other chassis out there.

shawnhpi

07-10-2003, 12:00 AM

well im kinda done breakin in my engine and ive started to just full thrt it pretty good i say. I can't get the car to spin out at all and its seems pretty fast. i do get it to whip around once and a while i think its when i run over the oil spots.. :D

I am goin to try to get some video of it very soon so you guys can see it. only prob im havin is that at the 8th tank @ almost empty it started to bog. I am using the new blue thunder 20% with the ZX-7.. So its sayin it is to lean? So i should richen it up a bit?

But the chassis is handling VERY GOOD. im suprised my self.

Video SOON i promise.

1..

coolracer47

07-11-2003, 05:26 PM

i just got my rs4 rtr 3 and its awesome!! break in was so easy it never stalled on me once and always started on the first pull. im gonna buy a 2 speed for it and a fiber disc brake for it soon. im gonna have fun with this car.:D

KronicRacer

07-15-2003, 11:55 AM

hpi has a new motor and header comin out dunno when. this is what some of the specs are .12 motor 3 port rear exhaust they have the regular threaded crank...i(i hope they come out with a s/g shaft). the exhaust header is designed specifically for the rs43!!:cool:

burning perform

07-15-2003, 12:36 PM

Yeah supposedly it has 1.35 horsepower. (a whole 0.1 over my phantom 15 but i got a couple thousand more rpms to hit.) Plus my engine is a side exhaust and this is a rear. If hpi had released that header earlier i woulda got a sirio or a picco. I heard that before they released their header for rear exhaust you could use a tc3 rear exhaust header. Is that true? If so I am gonna shoot myself.

Danny Chi

07-15-2003, 03:55 PM

were did you get that carbon fiber sheet, and how much was it?

liquidforrest

07-15-2003, 07:30 PM

Burning, yes thats true, also, i have a Sirio Rear exhaust engine. and RD logics makes a pipe for rear engines for our cars. thats what i use

burning perform

07-15-2003, 07:32 PM

liquid get your gun and put a bullet in the chamber...

burning perform

07-15-2003, 07:34 PM

Hey Danny, his upper deck is made by hot bodies. It runs for like 75 or so. search at tower for it. I think they carry it.

Oh yeah, sorry guys for double posting i read them one at a time and answered them after i read each one. (didn't think i would respond to both)

liquidforrest

07-15-2003, 07:47 PM

Originally posted by burning perform
liquid get your gun and put a bullet in the chamber...

are u drunk? *** does that mean?:rolleyes:

liquidforrest

07-15-2003, 07:49 PM

Originally posted by Danny Chi
were did you get that carbon fiber sheet, and how much was it?

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/other/graphiteplate.shtml

he was asking about the sheet. not the top plate.

burning perform

07-16-2003, 02:41 PM

liquid i said if they made a rear header for the rs4 3 then i woud shoot myself because i could have gotten a beter engine.

liquidforrest

07-16-2003, 04:28 PM

lol oh ok i get it now :eek:

liquidforrest

07-16-2003, 04:30 PM

oh and now HPI makes a rear exhaust header now. along with thier new rear exhaust engine. im guessing its for thier new R40 that they made a new engine. 1.35 horsey's and bad. i may try the new engine when i pick up the R40 next month:D

KronicRacer

07-17-2003, 08:52 AM

it is for the r40 look at the r 40 pics again. that and its also for use on the rs4 3.

burning perform

07-17-2003, 10:29 AM

man, where do you people get all this spare cash to bu new cars?! I gotta get myself a job! Anyone need a 14 year old to do something for them?

racerdave

07-18-2003, 08:39 AM

What would be best to use to install the large Outlaw style rear wing? Shoo Goo, servo tape, nut and bolt? I'd rather not bolt it.rd

BigDaddyT

07-18-2003, 12:06 PM

Hey RacerDave,

I've got that body and used the nuts and bolts and it has worked pretty well - a.k.a. Hasn't ripped off during insane crashes....

Servo tape would probably work as well if you make sure everything is really clean before you mount it. If it does rip off during a race, it might be a pain to clean everything up so that you can stick it back on......

shawnhpi

07-19-2003, 12:57 AM

once again i am also now havin probs..

MNy engine has been beeing good.. Well now it bogs and dies when throttleing it.. and this started happenin after a day of 1 tank runnin perfectly fine.. WHY WHY WHY.. any way i think imma get it tuned by people who know thsi stuff. and jsut let it sit on the shelf .. i have to much to worry about right now.

I was just about to get video of it today and BOG .. ohh well. Maybe after i get it tuned correctly if thati will get some video .. but car idles great untill u throttle..

Any help would be good.. I tried doin the whole rich lean thing to.. i don't knwo..

fastharry

07-19-2003, 08:27 AM

BigDaddyT

07-19-2003, 10:48 AM

Originally posted by shawnhpi
once again i am also now havin probs..

MNy engine has been beeing good.. Well now it bogs and dies when throttleing it.. and this started happenin after a day of 1 tank runnin perfectly fine.. WHY WHY WHY.. any way i think imma get it tuned by people who know thsi stuff. and jsut let it sit on the shelf .. i have to much to worry about right now.

I was just about to get video of it today and BOG .. ohh well. Maybe after i get it tuned correctly if thati will get some video .. but car idles great untill u throttle..

Any help would be good.. I tried doin the whole rich lean thing to.. i don't knwo..

Hey Shawn,

Check your drivetrain for any binding or rough action as well - make sure the disc brake can spin and isn't jammed. Make sure nothing snuck into your gears - even a little pebble can mess things up. It's weird that it was running fine last time that you were out, but anything can happen once the car goes through it's first few hot/cold cycles.

If there's nothing wrong drivetrain wise, I'd start working your way back. Set the car up on a block and see if you can slowly accelerate (use your throttle trim on your Tx at first). Then, I'd work back to the engine - make sure you don't have a kinked fuel line or something. Sometimes they can let enough fuel in to idle but when you accelerate, the engine can't get enough fuel.

At the end of the day, it's probably no big deal, but it might be a bit of a pain to find. You said you tried the rich/lean, but it might be worth giving it another shot.

Anyhow... that's my 2 cents, hopefully it's helpful.

T

JFawwaz

07-19-2003, 01:27 PM

sounds like its rich. fantoms are very easy to tune, so dont worry about it.

when you pull the throttle, look at the exhaust pipe. If tons of smoke comes out almost immediately, lean out your LSN 1/8 a turn. If the it takes a second or so until it starts bogging, then it should be your HSN, and you should lean it 1/8 a turn (clockwise) at a time until it runs perfect.

Laterilus

07-20-2003, 12:55 AM

Shawn, I'm assuming you've finally broken in that Fantom in your car that has been sitting in there begging to be run?:D Anyways, when all else fails, the best method I have always found is starting from scratch. Fantom gives you starting positions for the carb for break in procedures. Set your needles back to those settings. Now, only change one needle at a time. Start with the high end needle.... lean it out only at 1/8 of a turn and run it around for a minute or so. Now, it will slightly bog at the start and not accelerate well, but don't be tempted to try and tune both needles at the same time. Stick with just one. Once you believe the top end speed is sufficient, next thing to do is taking care of the acceleration. Incriments again of 1/8 turn on the low end needle should do it. If the low end is so rich that it dies before you get anything accomplished, simply pick the car up and slowly give it throttle so the engine can clear itself out. Hope you get it running.

ALJR

07-24-2003, 11:46 AM

any one interested in a set of aluminum touring car shocks?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134401

i also have a micro rx:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134219

and a bunch of rs4 3 plastic parts, most new:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134399

liquidforrest

07-24-2003, 04:46 PM

I bought a NTC3 I have a RD Logics One piece turbo rear exhaust for sale if any of you want it. it will work with any rear exhaust engine. LMK

35 bux shipped

PSU Tank88

07-26-2003, 12:22 PM

i just bought a fantom fr15 with my hpi 2 speed... i m having so much trouble starting it..and then when it doesnt run for tooo long and then just dies...and when i try to drive it the 2 speed doesnt seem to be working..i havent got it working ever...does anyone have any ideas..i was thinking you have to adjust the springs or something in that thing that goes wtih the gear

racerdave

07-26-2003, 04:14 PM

On my SS the front dogbone's sometime come out off the axle hubs on tight turns. Would putting some fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to space the bone's out , stop this? I don't want to go to MIP's . Thanks, rd

BlueBeast8-Port

07-28-2003, 03:54 PM

Hey, i jsut bought my hpi rs4 3 type ss a couple weeks ago and put it all together and had a little trouble with the engine so i switched to a megatech 16. Right now it is all stock except for it has proline road rage tires with chrome gumby wheels by proline also (never used). i also have the stocks never used. I figured out my clutch was set up wrong so the 12r ss does work just ive had a little trouble starting it. 3 tanks through. still needs more break in. The megatech 16 was jsut broken in. 5 tanks, nothing else. The only problem i am having is the wheels aren't spining much when trottle is applied, but i think it just needs to be tuned. The local hobby shop just closed up so im not sure if its another problem or not, but u could figure it out if its not just the tuning. It has the two speed and everything. Its all stock, except i have the two engines, megatech in right now, the stock wheels, proline on right now. and three bodies, firebird basher, 69 camero (dad screwed up the paint job a little but doesnt look too bad) and a toyota celica (very sweet) No electronics. This car was $299.99 then i had to put it all together (12 hours), 2 extra bodies with paint ($60.00) Megatech m-16 engine with longer shaft put in ($150.00) Proline road rage tires ($25.00) Proline chrome gumby wheels ($20.00) TOTAL=$550.00 plus labor. Make an offer.

liquidforrest

07-28-2003, 03:56 PM

Originally posted by racerdave
On my SS the front dogbone's sometime come out off the axle hubs on tight turns. Would putting some fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to space the bone's out , stop this? I don't want to go to MIP's . Thanks, rd

u could do that.. OR use the tiny o-rings that go under the fuel tank.

BlueBeast8-Port

07-29-2003, 03:03 PM

Hey guys, do you know when the new R-40 and electric pro 4 come out? also my ss has a megatech in it. I broke it in and when trottle is applied the wheels hardly turn at all. I NEED HELP! any suggestions? thanks a ton guys

Jason C

07-29-2003, 06:46 PM

Does the lightweight flywheel really improve acceleration?

Downforce

07-29-2003, 07:28 PM

Jason C-Yes it does, but you must know how to retune your motor.

BlueBeast8-Port-End of next month for the R40. Pro 4, good luck. I just hope it's out before Cleveland. Check your clutch and flywheel. Make sure your clutch is set right and not slipping. Also check the flywheel and make sure it's tight on the crank.

liquidforrest

07-30-2003, 12:28 AM

Originally posted by Downforce
Also check the flywheel and make sure it's tight on the crank.

also make sure the fly wheel spins freely. not tight, or sticking to the pilot nut

Jason C

07-31-2003, 11:19 AM

Thanks, Downforce. Is there any noticeable difference between the non-pullstart and pullstart flywheels?

Downforce

07-31-2003, 09:21 PM

Originally posted by Jason C
Thanks, Downforce. Is there any noticeable difference between the non-pullstart and pullstart flywheels?

There is a difference, but it depends on what you're doing. If your running a pull start I'd leave it on. If you ditch the pull start go with a non-pull start fllywheel. The pull start flywheels are generally heavier to compensate for the pull start.

RageATheM

07-31-2003, 11:46 PM

I was wondering if anybody knew of a company that sells stronger axles (front & rear). I just snapped one of my rear ones, and they seam pretty cheaply made, so I was hopping that there was a better qaulity one out there...Thanks!!

:cool:

liquidforrest

08-01-2003, 01:30 AM

are you still using the dog bones? why not go to some MIP Shinny CVDs?

RageATheM

08-01-2003, 05:59 AM

I had looked at those, but would they fit directly into the carrier?

:cool:

liquidforrest

08-01-2003, 06:46 AM

Yes, would be a wise investment anyways. more efficient and no more poping dog bones

bodmon03

08-01-2003, 04:12 PM

do you think the rs4 3 is better than the tc3nitro?

liquidforrest

08-01-2003, 05:45 PM

Originally posted by bodmon03
do you think the rs4 3 is better than the tc3nitro?

as a owner of both. I'd have to say no

Jason C

08-02-2003, 03:50 PM

Downforce,

I'm going to stick with the PS and just get the 40mm flywheel. Thanks again.

Personally, I think the RS4 3 is a better value than the Nitro TC3, at least when it comes to parking lot bashing/club racing since HPI includes a nice engine with the kit while the TC3 doesn't. But the TC3 is aimed at more serious racers I think. I'm very happy with my RS4 3.

trickedoutGT

08-08-2003, 01:41 AM

Hey I put a RB X12 3 port non turbo in my RS4 3 Type SS. I am very afraid it might tear up my diffs. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? Thanks

Heres a pic:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid73/pf7104bfa7309c4cc31e2b4f4667dd10e/fb72e697.jpg

NMT_RACER_BOY

08-08-2003, 12:35 PM

Get HD diff gears and i think you need a new pinion gear on the clutchbell... :) :D

KronicRacer

08-09-2003, 12:03 AM

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
Hey I put a RB X12 3 port non turbo in my RS4 3 Type SS. I am very afraid it might tear up my diffs. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? Thanks

Heres a pic:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid73/pf7104bfa7309c4cc31e2b4f4667dd10e/fb72e697.jpg

well the first thing is to .... get the wolf pack radicals 2 speed second get the center cvds by hot bodies and third is to cross your fingers and hope it was all worth it....:D it will work, that and make sure there isnt too much grease on the diffs just enuff to lube it

newnitrofan

08-09-2003, 08:49 PM

Hey everyone,

Ok Months ago I put a new clutch on my 12ss motor and I only got to run it once. Well I am just getting to my engine problem. I think I fried it. The flywheel just spins freely so I thought I just needed to order a new collett. I replaced it and that wasn't the problem. Flywheel still spins freely. To me right now the problem is that I can pull on the crankshaft from the front and there is play in it. I mean in appearance the motor looks great internally and externally. I think it is the play in the crankshaft pull is the problem. Help please!!

fastharry

08-10-2003, 07:32 AM

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
Hey I put a RB X12 3 port non turbo in my RS4 3 Type SS. I am very afraid it might tear up my diffs. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? Thanks

Heres a pic:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid73/pf7104bfa7309c4cc31e2b4f4667dd10e/fb72e697.jpg

put in the HD gears..

BTW,I have one in mine also....I was running the tc3 header..

I just picked up and installed the new HPI RE header for the SS..

It is a GREAT fit...........Well worth the money..

And I'll tell you something else...the grahite top tray is the hot ticket..Just make sure you get a flat battery pack and install it the right way(Dont take the old pack(AA's or hump) and put in on top of the battery tray)..

RCNitroDude999

08-11-2003, 02:42 AM

Just recently got a nitro rs4 3 type ss, nice car....but when building it i could never get the pinion gears to line up with the spurs, not talking about the mesh, but it was as if the motor was sitting to far foward, causing the big pinion to rub slightly against the big spur....i found that putting washers under the front two motor mounts helped, but i know i shouldn't have to do this? Anyone know what may cause this? I took it apart and checked everything many many times!!

Also, I'm curious if anyone could let me in on some tips on how they set up their suspension, such as type of shocks, color springs and shock oil, this would really help, thanks!

fastharry

08-11-2003, 07:21 AM

and heres another question..

does anyone make a starter box thats an EXACT fit for the 3/ss nps engine.....I've been using a std box and just holding the car sideways.....I own 5 boxes(duratrax big blue,2 serpent boxes,the orange duratrax,AND my tc3 box...)..none work with this car so you can just put it on top,line it up on the guides,and press down..

puma1824

08-11-2003, 07:51 AM

Originally posted by fastharry
and heres another question..

does anyone make a starter box thats an EXACT fit for the 3/ss nps engine.....I've been using a std box and just holding the car sideways.....I own 5 boxes(duratrax big blue,2 serpent boxes,the orange duratrax,AND my tc3 box...)..none work with this car so you can just put it on top,line it up on the guides,and press down..

When I had mine I used a Ofna box with no problems. I believe I had to reverse the direction of the starter motor.

I did NOT need to hold the car sideways. The car sat with the rear towards the power panel. I used the supplied guides to line up.

-Puma

Here's a pic of the box I was using:
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/ofnp1257.jpg

fastharry

08-11-2003, 07:55 AM

so you were able to position the motor so it sat in the big slot,but on the RH side?....

good job getting the R40....I think that car is going to be a winner..

puma1824

08-11-2003, 09:24 AM

Originally posted by fastharry
so you were able to position the motor so it sat in the big slot,but on the RH side?....

good job getting the R40....I think that car is going to be a winner..

Yup, I was able to position the motor so it sat in the big slot correctly. In fact to worked great. I could start the car with the body on and just used the guides to position the car.

Yeah I hope the R40 will be nice. Would be nice to have parts support again. Have you seen pics of the sponsored guys cars? Looks like they are using a silver chassis...could it be the super chassis (when I mean super I mean thicker/lighter) or are the kits coming in silver instead of purple? Do you think aluminum shock bodies will be worth the price?

Have you picked an engine out for yours?

-Puma

RCNitroDude999

08-11-2003, 03:12 PM

What would be a good pipe to buy for this car to really improve performance? I looked at a Cvec the other day but wasn't to sure about it....is it any good? Also, what kind of aftermarket chassis plates are offered for this car?

Jason C

08-11-2003, 04:34 PM

Originally posted by RCNitroDude999
Just recently got a nitro rs4 3 type ss, nice car....but when building it i could never get the pinion gears to line up with the spurs, not talking about the mesh, but it was as if the motor was sitting to far foward, causing the big pinion to rub slightly against the big spur....i found that putting washers under the front two motor mounts helped, but i know i shouldn't have to do this? Anyone know what may cause this? I took it apart and checked everything many many times!!

Yes, I had this problem too when I first built my Type SS. I found that it was the flywheel and collet that caused it. The collet seemed to have a taper that was a tiny bit too wide for the flywheel. I had to shave down the collet so that it fit flush inside the flywheel to get the pinion and supr gears to line up properly.

fastharry

08-11-2003, 06:40 PM

Originally posted by puma1824
Yup, I was able to position the motor so it sat in the big slot correctly. In fact to worked great. I could start the car with the body on and just used the guides to position the car.

Yeah I hope the R40 will be nice. Would be nice to have parts support again. Have you seen pics of the sponsored guys cars? Looks like they are using a silver chassis...could it be the super chassis (when I mean super I mean thicker/lighter) or are the kits coming in silver instead of purple? Do you think aluminum shock bodies will be worth the price?

Have you picked an engine out for yours?

-Puma

I don't knownwhat engine to use..I hate the nova engines,the os won't have enough power,teh orions have bad carbs,and Sirios are good for about a galon of gas..

Any ideas?..

I will put the metal shocks on..the chassis in my kit is purple..

puma1824

08-11-2003, 08:01 PM

Originally posted by fastharry
I don't knownwhat engine to use..I hate the nova engines,the os won't have enough power,teh orions have bad carbs,and Sirios are good for about a galon of gas..

Any ideas?..

I will put the metal shocks on..the chassis in my kit is purple..

I think I may either use a OS 12TR TURBO or MR/MT12 TURBO. I too heard the Sirio don't last that long PLUS have you seen the price of the Piston and Sleave for the Sirios? Most likely I'll go with the OS .12 TR TURBO based on price.

I wish I didn't sell the alum shocks with my RS4-3 oh well.

-Puma

fastharry

08-11-2003, 08:05 PM

I don't think they're teh same bodies anyhow..

I'll prtobably get the os turbo also....

I wish somenone would make a great RUNNING roar motor..

trickedoutGT

08-11-2003, 08:22 PM

Heh. I have MTX-2 alum. threaded shocks on mine RS4 3.

Fastharry-Thanks for the graphite upper deck suggestion. But I have a titanium upper deck.

Do you know the part number for the heavy duty gears? Thanks

KronicRacer

08-12-2003, 12:01 PM

Originally posted by fastharry
I don't think they're teh same bodies anyhow..

I'll prtobably get the os turbo also....

I wish somenone would make a great RUNNING roar motor..

sounds like u need a custom motor... something with the power of a rossi and the reliability of and hpi .15fe (i still cant kill that motor) the downside it prolly wouldnt be roar legal. :( . oooooo paris racing may still make motors dunno check them out they may have something you may want

Jason C

08-14-2003, 01:19 PM

I'm thinking of getting the slide carb for the 12r SS engine, but it's $50. Would there be noticeable improvement in throttle response? Also, I'm kind of at a loss for a decent set-up for a smooth tarmac parking lot surface. Any reccommendations for shock springs, camber, toe, shock oil settings? Thanks.

RCNitroDude999

08-16-2003, 04:48 AM

OK...getting a bit frustrated here! Filed down the flywheel collet like i was told and the pinion gears still sit to far foward! Everything is the way it is supposed to be...checked many many times! Whats the deal with this thing!! :mad:

newnitrofan

08-16-2003, 11:59 AM

I have the stock 12rss racing engine no my SS. No matter what I do I can't seem to get the flywheel to be able to turn the crankshaft at all. I installed a Racing clutch on it a while back and I think I had the Rpm's so high on the motor that I spun the crankshaft right out of the races of the bearings that hold it in place. The crank now with flywheel not mounted has some adequate play in it, I'm not sure if this happened before. I should mention it was one of those round racing clutches and I totally forgot to cut the flywheel so the car never went anywhere. I need help can't get my car to move.

KronicRacer

08-16-2003, 01:41 PM

Originally posted by RCNitroDude999
OK...getting a bit frustrated here! Filed down the flywheel collet like i was told and the pinion gears still sit to far foward! Everything is the way it is supposed to be...checked many many times! Whats the deal with this thing!! :mad:

first of all all you need to get is a new collet and a new flywheel then lightly hammer the collet into the f/wheel its suppose to be a tight fit with those two items... you need a piston locking tool also, you can order those from tower hobbies, to ensure that everything is nice and tight when you put on your flywheel pilot shaft and clutch, clutch bell the only thing that should spin freely is the clutch bell.

KronicRacer

08-16-2003, 01:46 PM

Originally posted by newnitrofan
I have the stock 12rss racing engine no my SS. No matter what I do I can't seem to get the flywheel to be able to turn the crankshaft at all. I installed a Racing clutch on it a while back and I think I had the Rpm's so high on the motor that I spun the crankshaft right out of the races of the bearings that hold it in place. The crank now with flywheel not mounted has some adequate play in it, I'm not sure if this happened before. I should mention it was one of those round racing clutches and I totally forgot to cut the flywheel so the car never went anywhere. I need help can't get my car to move.

make sure that the bearing didnt come loose in the motor case itself. it seems that the entire assembly was not tightened properly. dont worry about not having cut the clutch that didnt matter. from the look of it you need to take the motor apart and check inside... (in the end it might be a shote bearing) how new is the motor by the way..(how many tanks of fuel have you run through it?) *** if your not to sure of yourself taking the motor apart just try pullin on the pullstart.. if it feels like its supposed to its ok. the 12rss takes longer than normal to break in.

newnitrofan

08-16-2003, 02:01 PM

Umm, I think I barely made it past break in. I broke it in properly for sure. I think maybe I have about 10 tanks on it. I do have the motor stripped down already. Motor itself is only about 4 months old to me. Everything turns like normal when pullstart is pulled. I had a hunch it might be the inner bearing in the case myself.

KronicRacer

08-16-2003, 10:49 PM

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Umm, I think I barely made it past break in. I broke it in properly for sure. I think maybe I have about 10 tanks on it. I do have the motor stripped down already. Motor itself is only about 4 months old to me. Everything turns like normal when pullstart is pulled. I had a hunch it might be the inner bearing in the case myself.

youre gonna have to get new bearings just in case it is the bearings. also, hpi uses a new coating that make the 12rss harder to break in. and its difficult to turn it via flywheel unless you have a starter box.

newnitrofan

08-16-2003, 11:04 PM

Before I screwed everything up I could turn the flywheel by hand and the piston would turn with it. Now If I fire up the car even with the stock clutch on it it go's no where it sucks. I miss driving this car even though it's not my fav.

KronicRacer

08-17-2003, 01:51 PM

so its just stuck? or does it spin freely(the flywheel that is)?

newnitrofan

08-17-2003, 02:03 PM

The flywheel just spins freely even with the pilot shaft cranked down. I thought replacing the collett would help but it didn't. At all. Yeah I am kind of baffled at it. I mean the thing runs no problem. I kinda still think it has something to do with the inner case bearing myself. I'm not sure what to do. I might write hpi for some direction.

liquidforrest

08-17-2003, 02:13 PM

i had to trim a little of the crankshaft off to get my flywheel to spin with it

newnitrofan

08-17-2003, 02:39 PM

I can't believe I didn't think of that. Maybe it's cuz I don't have a dremel. OH well I'm going to pick one up anyways. Wouldn't hurt right. Think I"m going to order a new collet too since I snapped the other one. Later.

KronicRacer

08-18-2003, 09:04 AM

well dont go trimming the crank yet... get the new collet and remeber to tap it in with a rubber/'wood hammer b4 installing. try that out first.....

newnitrofan

08-18-2003, 09:08 AM

Are you saying to tap it into the flywheel or what??

KronicRacer

08-18-2003, 10:13 AM

:o yea i forgot to mention that:o tap into flywheel first.

RageATheM

08-18-2003, 11:26 PM

I am new to the nitro scene...and I have only been in electrics since last year so my knowledge base is not as grand as most. I bought a HPI RS4 3 RTR a month ago, whenever I run it there is lots of fuel that comes out (from where I don't know) and goes on the top, and underneath of the chasis. It mostly covers the parts in the rear. The feul lines have been changed twice already and inspected so theirs no hole in them...and theirs a decent amount of feul that comes out, it goes ont he pipe and everything else. The car runs great, good top speed, smoking and everything....anybody have any ideas??? I thought maybe a cracked feul tank but I am unsure...please post your thoughts as soon as possible as I don't want to ruin anything on it!!! THANKS FOR YOU TIME!!!

:cool:

liquidforrest

08-19-2003, 01:17 AM

Most likely the reason the flywheel is just spinning is because the clutch nut is not getting tight enough on the flywheel. in my case it was a tad off. so i cut 2-3 threads off and it tighten it right up and haven't had a problem since. it may not be the reason your's isn't working. but thats what it sounds like. it wouldn't be from not tapping the collet in first.

newnitrofan

08-19-2003, 01:39 AM

Who know's what is actually wrong. I just know I have had a hell of a time with it. I think I may have taken the engine apart for no reason. I would love to just buy a new motor for it however I am in way too deep with my Nitro MT. It's funny I bought this car and was all gung ho about it, however I bought my NMT and it was like bingo I need to fix that one up for some strange reason. I still love my type SS. I wish HPI would've but a few more upgrades into it though. Look at the Savage SS. It has like way more than the rs4 three does. I dunno. Maybe I'm just mad cause I can't put the kind of money into this one that I have my MT. Thank you everyone for your help. I'll post in a few day's when I figure out exactly what was wrong with it.

KronicRacer

08-20-2003, 01:05 PM

Originally posted by liquidforrest
Most likely the reason the flywheel is just spinning is because the clutch nut is not getting tight enough on the flywheel. in my case it was a tad off. so i cut 2-3 threads off and it tighten it right up and haven't had a problem since. it may not be the reason your's isn't working. but thats what it sounds like. it wouldn't be from not tapping the collet in first.

that may not be the solution to the problem but, tappin in the collet does helps in seeing if youve tightened the clutch nut enough(acts as an improptu guide)... just trying to eliminate one thing at a time since i have no idea what his motor look like at this point ..... another thing to look at is there is a build up of0 thread lock that can and willl happen on the clutch nut(pilot shaft). i had this happen b4 and this did not let me tighten it down all the way. clean that out b4 you reapply the threadlock.

RCNitroDude999

08-22-2003, 01:41 AM

Does any one know the normal operating temp for the 12R SS engine? Also, i bought a new kind of fuel, since my local hobby shop stopped selling the kind I normally use :mad: and it only contains 10% oil, less than what I ran before.....will this affect anything in my engine?

newnitrofan

08-24-2003, 01:46 AM

Originally posted by RCNitroDude999
Does any one know the normal operating temp for the 12R SS engine? Also, i bought a new kind of fuel, since my local hobby shop stopped selling the kind I normally use :mad: and it only contains 10% oil, less than what I ran before.....will this affect anything in my engine?

I would seriously recommend going back to a higher content oil'd fuel. What was the content of what you were running???

RCNitroDude999

08-24-2003, 02:08 AM

I think it was 16% oil, the reason this one is lower is because it is a "racing fuel"......im not a big track racer with a big budget, so i'll have to go back to the other. The gas does make my engine run a bit quicker though......but with the cost of more wear on the parts.....:(

Whats the normal operating temp for a .12???:confused:

BigDaddyT

08-25-2003, 04:04 PM

Originally posted by RCNitroDude999
I think it was 16% oil, the reason this one is lower is because it is a "racing fuel"......im not a big track racer with a big budget, so i'll have to go back to the other. The gas does make my engine run a bit quicker though......but with the cost of more wear on the parts.....:(

Whats the normal operating temp for a .12???:confused:

Mine usually runs around in the range of about 260 degrees when it's feeling peppy.

newnitrofan

08-27-2003, 12:14 AM

Hey everyone I know we all get wrapped up in what is or is not actually happening with our rides. However I am totally interested to see what people are doing with their cars these day's as far as bodies for the paint jobs. Also what shells are you using. I have the Acura Integra that came with it, also have the 190mm Saleen Mustang body for mine not that sr7 Saleen. I am working on an Audi TT Body for mine right now. I just don't want it to look typical at all. Post some pics I wanna see'em. I also want some ideas for paint schemes. I would really love to do like to do a three or four different color'd flame job on it. I think would look kinda cool.

newnitrofan

08-27-2003, 12:19 AM

Originally posted by Jason C
I'm thinking of getting the slide carb for the 12r SS engine, but it's $50. Would there be noticeable improvement in throttle response? Also, I'm kind of at a loss for a decent set-up for a smooth tarmac parking lot surface. Any reccommendations for shock springs, camber, toe, shock oil settings? Thanks.

Hey man, I can't personally help you with a decision but found an article a while back that might help you. Here is the link RC Car Action (http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/articles/nitroengines4.asp) to the story that might actually help you make a decision. I think it really just depeneds on what you are wanting to do with it. Later

rico750sxi

08-27-2003, 11:40 AM

Took my RS4 3 out for a little bashing yesterday after not using it in about a 2 months. I've been using my SMaxx mostly lately. Well the '03 Fantom .15 fired up on the 2nd pull. Man I love that engine. I forgot how much fun that car is!! I will be using it more. Lately my son and I have been racing each other, me with my Smaxx and him with a single speed Rs4 3 with Mach.15 in it. They are very evenly matched. He beats me off the line and I creap past him on top. Although one time I did creap over him while drag racing. Anyways..just felt the need to post this. Haven't posted in a LONG time.

KronicRacer

08-27-2003, 03:02 PM

i just got my Brand New $260.00 fantom fr12 03 in today!!! got it on ebay for a mere 106.00 with shipping. slide carb, sgshaft, rear exhaust, pullstart motor, with boost bottle. cant wait to fire it up! :eek: :cool: :D :D :D :D

KronicRacer

08-27-2003, 03:20 PM

hey rico whats up good to see you posting again.:)

rico750sxi

08-27-2003, 04:00 PM

Not much Kronic, how've you been? I love my Fantom, easy to tune, always starts right up, great engine. I'm curious, will you be installing your new FR12 rear exhaust in a R40???

KronicRacer

08-27-2003, 04:50 PM

i would but the r40 does not take pull start motors, chassis brace prevents it. so im gonna have to use the new sirio outlaw (tossed my old one) i got a month ago. the fr12, im gonna use on the rs43 & ntc3. if i can get the non pullstart conversion ill use it on the r40. if not its sirio all the way for my R40.

rico750sxi

08-27-2003, 04:53 PM

I was just guessing that you had an R40. I just got done reading the R40 forum posts. Is there any TC you don't have??:D

KronicRacer

08-27-2003, 08:44 PM

yokomo;)

newnitrofan

08-30-2003, 08:35 PM

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Hey everyone I know we all get wrapped up in what is or is not actually happening with our rides. However I am totally interested to see what people are doing with their cars these day's as far as bodies for the paint jobs. Also what shells are you using. I have the Acura Integra that came with it, also have the 190mm Saleen Mustang body for mine not that sr7 Saleen. I am working on an Audi TT Body for mine right now. I just don't want it to look typical at all. Post some pics I wanna see'em. I also want some ideas for paint schemes. I would really love to do like to do a three or four different color'd flame job on it. I think would look kinda cool.
Alright I'm puttin my money where my mouth is.

newnitrofan

08-30-2003, 08:42 PM

Hope these work out alright

newnitrofan

08-31-2003, 01:53 PM

Originally posted by newnitrofan
I have the stock 12rss racing engine no my SS. No matter what I do I can't seem to get the flywheel to be able to turn the crankshaft at all. I installed a Racing clutch on it a while back and I think I had the Rpm's so high on the motor that I spun the crankshaft right out of the races of the bearings that hold it in place. The crank now with flywheel not mounted has some adequate play in it, I'm not sure if this happened before. I should mention it was one of those round racing clutches and I totally forgot to cut the flywheel so the car never went anywhere. I need help can't get my car to move.
Hmm Problem solved

I originally wrote about my flywheel spinning no matter what I did and got such great advice from everyone. It was not my collett at all. I totally had to take about three threads off the crank with a dremel. Problem is solved and I am racing again. Damn it feels good to race that thing again. Hope everyone is havin a great weekend.

Jason C

09-01-2003, 11:05 AM

Nice car, newnitrofan. Glad to hear you fixed your problem.

Does anyone know if this car can accept engines with SG cranks?

newnitrofan

09-01-2003, 12:18 PM

Hey Jason,

It should take an SG crank just fine. I put a .21 motor with an SG style crank in my Nitro Mt which is pretty much the same setup as my type SS I'll bet if I jerry rigged stuff it would work out just fine. You might need to get a hold of adjustable motor mounts, maybe not.

KronicRacer

09-03-2003, 01:43 PM

i think that yokomo has a clutch nut available for sg shaft motors (correct me if im wrong) for the standard clutch. im not sure how far back the clutch bell will sit if you go that route. the wolfpack adjustable motor mounts are a good buy, but you will want the motor to be non pullstart. (wolfpacks mounts are low cg mounts, pull start plates get in the way).

now if you want to get fancy:

the centerforce (centax) clutch from the r40 can be used. another thing is that you u can use the sg shaft(sirio outlaw (example)) motor for nitro 3 .

you can also use the full thread crank, hpi has a special adaptor for this available in the r40 kit. (more on that later, waiting to test the adapter on my .15 ss). :)

KronicRacer

09-03-2003, 02:37 PM

heres a display shell i did a while ago:
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/67013_2022418853230919905_vl.jpg

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/67014_2150571683120267368_vl.jpg

RCNitroDude999

09-03-2003, 02:47 PM

Hey Kronic, which do you think is better...the K&N Filter or the Motor Saver Filter?

KronicRacer

09-03-2003, 03:33 PM

motorsaver has been gettin on my nerve. the screen has fallen apart on the new one i got. i was able to fix it with goop, but for 25 bux it shouldnt fall apart at the seams like that. the k&n is bulky and is troublesome to fit on a 12rss and other small carb motors (the filter is to big). it works great on big race carb motors (sirio). aside from minor mishaps, both have worked but im in the searching for a new filter phase...

check out this link also for more info this should help you out a bit more http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=139479

Jason C

09-03-2003, 09:54 PM

Originally posted by KronicRacer
i think that yokomo has a clutch nut available for sg shaft motors (correct me if im wrong) for the standard clutch. im not sure how far back the clutch bell will sit if you go that route. the wolfpack adjustable motor mounts are a good buy, but you will want the motor to be non pullstart. (wolfpacks mounts are low cg mounts, pull start plates get in the way).

now if you want to get fancy:

the centerforce (centax) clutch from the r40 can be used. another thing is that you u can use the sg shaft(sirio outlaw (example)) motor for nitro 3 .

you can also use the full thread crank, hpi has a special adaptor for this available in the r40 kit. (more on that later, waiting to test the adapter on my .15 ss). :)

So a SG crank will not be able to just "drop-in"? I was thinking about the OS .12 TR in a SG crank. Will I still need to use the collet for the flywheel?

RCNitroDude999

09-03-2003, 10:04 PM

Hey Kronic.....what about the associated filters?? They aren't any bigger then the motor saver, dont really fall apart, easy to clean, and keep dirt out good.

KronicRacer

09-03-2003, 10:50 PM

Originally posted by Jason C
So a SG crank will not be able to just "drop-in"? I was thinking about the OS .12 TR in a SG crank. Will I still need to use the collet for the flywheel?

the only way you can drop it in, is if you get the centerforce clutch off of the r40 or, when they hopefully start to sell it seperatly under the hpi banner. i got the clutch for my car almost a year ago with the hot bodies name at the time it was a limited production run. also get wolfpack radicals adjustable motor mounts(a must for this clutch). i wish i new more about the yokomo part but that might be a dead end..... anyways, yes you still have to use the collet for the flywheel. it comes included with new motors and one usually comes with clutch kits.

Dude:

ive looked at the ae filters, i was thinking of trying to get the rd logics filter possibly

RCNitroDude999

09-03-2003, 11:18 PM

Hmm, never heard of those filters Kronic, probaly seen them though, just didnt know what they were. Do you know a link that has a pic and gives a description of them?? Oh, by the way, thanks a million for your input man, you seem to know a lot....wish there were people in my area who knew about r/c...hell, theres not even people who race r/c around here!

newnitrofan

09-04-2003, 01:04 AM

Hey I read bad things about K & N Filters for Nitro cars and trucks but you guys judge for yourself. Click here for K & N story (http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=4105&highlight=k+n+airfilter)

AS for the SG crank I would agree that you may need some adjustable motor mounts but it should still work out. Like I said I put a .21 XTM Motor with SG crank in my Nitro MT which is almost verbatum the chassis layout as the Type SS. Just an opinion.

RCNitroDude999

09-04-2003, 01:30 AM

I think im gonna go with what the site said about the K&N's, they even look like their for gasoline engines, if you had a 1/5 or 1/4 scale im sure they would work great. The motor saver is alright, but after using it on my local track in my SS i noticed small amounts of dirt made in into the carb, but i dont think got into the engine......hopefully not! I got the little dust boot thingy that goes directly onto the filter, maybe this will help. If not im gonna stick with the associated filter, I've used it in my GT, and works perfect......i dont see why more people dont use this on though!! It may not have the max airflow like a motorsaver......but for those on a smaller budget it'll deffenitly save your motor, especialy in on-road applications.

(this is my opinion at least!)

rico750sxi

09-04-2003, 10:55 AM

Guys, I'm looking for good bashing tires, any suggestions. I usually use HPI X patterns but they don't last too long at all. I bought a set of Team Losi slicks off of ebay and mounted them. Wow, did I have grip!!! They seems to be wearing better then the X patterns too. I have tried HPI Super Radials and they last very long but that's because they don't have very much grip.

Also, my son and I went parking lot bashing over the weekend. Had my first problems with my Fantom FR15. The car wasn't running very strong and wasn't shifting into second. Glow plug change solved that(first time I've changed the plug). Broke the pull start spring I believe. I couldn't get the pull starter to recoil. I wound up putting my pull starter on from my old HPI engine, perfect fit. All is well with the Fantom again.

My son's RTR3 with a Dynamite Mach.15 in it ran great all day. I didn't touch a thing on it. But that thing is too slow!! 2 speed going in it real soon.

KronicRacer

09-05-2003, 11:34 AM

make the switch to foams:rolleyes:

rico750sxi

09-05-2003, 01:15 PM

Kronic, use foams even for parking lot running? They won't last very long either though will they?

trini2debone

09-05-2003, 09:09 PM

I am looking to upgrade my HPI .12 SS engine to a Novarossi rear exhaust engine. The problem is I'm not sure what I will need to acomplish this.

I will need the following:

- adjustable engine mount
- small diameter flywheel
- rear exhaust header (this is new on HPI's site for their new engine)
- Centax / Centerforce clutch

Is there anything else that I am leaving out or am I heading in the wrong direction???

Also, what is the difference between the SG crankshaft and the standard one? Can the racing clutch work on a SG shaft?

newnitrofan

09-05-2003, 11:38 PM

Originally posted by rico750sxi
Guys, I'm looking for good bashing tires, any suggestions. I usually use HPI X patterns but they don't last too long at all. I bought a set of Team Losi slicks off of ebay and mounted them. Wow, did I have grip!!! They seems to be wearing better then the X patterns too. I have tried HPI Super Radials and they last very long but that's because they don't have very much grip.

Also, my son and I went parking lot bashing over the weekend. Had my first problems with my Fantom FR15. The car wasn't running very strong and wasn't shifting into second. Glow plug change solved that(first time I've changed the plug). Broke the pull start spring I believe. I couldn't get the pull starter to recoil. I wound up putting my pull starter on from my old HPI engine, perfect fit. All is well with the Fantom again.

My son's RTR3 with a Dynamite Mach.15 in it ran great all day. I didn't touch a thing on it. But that thing is too slow!! 2 speed
going in it real soon.

I personally haven't run the X-patterns too much, hell I think three times. However I have been running the Venom Racing tires. They grip well and look cool. I looked on their site and they were$25.00 a set or so. However my LHS has them for sale for twenty dollars a pair. They break well and stick pretty well. Come pre glued and have no inner foams to deal with. I give them a thumbs up. You can also get them in hyper grip or super grip. I got super grip guess that's why I like them so much. Venom Racing (http://venom-racing.com)

newnitrofan

09-05-2003, 11:42 PM

Originally posted by trini2debone
I am looking to upgrade my HPI .12 SS engine to a Novarossi rear exhaust engine. The problem is I'm not sure what I will need to acomplish this.

I will need the following:

- adjustable engine mount
- small diameter flywheel
- rear exhaust header (this is new on HPI's site for their new engine)
- Centax / Centerforce clutch

Is there anything else that I am leaving out or am I heading in the wrong direction???

Also, what is the difference between the SG crankshaft and the standard one? Can the racing clutch work on a SG shaft?

The only difference that I have seen is the clutch nut. The stock motor has a threaded crank that takes a pilot shaft which holds the flywheel in place and the clutch go's around it. The SG shaft takes a clutch nut that is a little different. It too holds the flywheel in place. What I'm thinking the difference is, is the with the SG Style crank the screw that you use to hold the flywheel down is in the crankshaft. With standard crank it go's on the pilot shaft. Now I could be wrong here experts please correct me if I'm wrong.

Jason C

09-09-2003, 05:46 PM

Can the diffs be filled with silicone diff fluid? The outdrives appear to be sealed with o-rings, but I wonder about the how well sealed the plastic diff housing is to the ring gear.

KronicRacer

09-09-2003, 07:16 PM

Originally posted by trini2debone
I am looking to upgrade my HPI .12 SS engine to a Novarossi rear exhaust engine. The problem is I'm not sure what I will need to acomplish this.

I will need the following:

- adjustable engine mount
- small diameter flywheel
- rear exhaust header (this is new on HPI's site for their new engine)
- Centax / Centerforce clutch

Is there anything else that I am leaving out or am I heading in the wrong direction???

Also, what is the difference between the SG crankshaft and the standard one? Can the racing clutch work on a SG shaft?

you wont need the racing clutch. the center force come with everything. try to find the hotbodies version. you can use some of the stuff from the r40 but not all you cant use the gears.... also you can use either sg or threaded crankill try to post pics tonite showing what i mean.

KronicRacer

09-09-2003, 07:31 PM

Originally posted by rico750sxi
Kronic, use foams even for parking lot running? They won't last very long either though will they?

not really but it depends on the heat and they type of asphalt, you will have superior grip with foams, you can also get em for cheaper than rubber..... this is where i got jaco nitro shoes for mad cheap 8-10 bucks a pair. this site has all types of foams and everything else. accept paypal and shipping is reasonable. http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/default.php?cPath=7_35

KronicRacer

09-09-2003, 11:32 PM

here is the centax clutch for FANTOM FR12 with threaded crank for my rs4 3. as you can see the flywheel (to the right of the motor) and clutch are not the standard configureation like the stocks clutch
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473472_8483175626974281420_vl.jpg
here is the crank with the special r40 "pilot shaft" attached
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473475_2268915320750505987_vl.jpg

the difference with the r40 hpi center force(left) and nitro 3 hotbdies center force(right)(its all in the gears):
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473476_8239856834229384056_vl.jpg

heres a look at an s/g shaft: (ntc3 kfactory clutch)
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473489_2305452365372900310_vl.jpg

heres the parts:
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473490_6805413713921867235_vl.jpg

b4 adapter
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473491_543243791756885700_vl.jpg

with adapter in place
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473493_8757843755287024370_vl.jpg

spring loaded and ready for the clutch bell
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/473494_3054249326755115408_vl.jpg

trini2debone

09-10-2003, 11:42 AM

Thanks Kronic Racer for those excellent pictures!! and descriptions.

I do have one more question though...

I have the GPM turnbuckles and am thinking of getting the graphite shock towers from Hot Bodies. The only problem though is how do you get around the difference in thickness of the towers?? Won,t this make the turnbuckles at an angle to vertical?? The fornt shock tower comes with some bushings to offset this but nowhere does it say anything about the bushings for the back tower??

Please clarify!!

KronicRacer

09-10-2003, 03:30 PM

if its the hotbodies ur gettin for front and back no worries.... the front does come with shorter ball ends that need the bushing to match up with the front knuckles. the thickness is the same on both towers, its the front and rear knuckles where the difference is. the rear ballends are a bit longer so they dont need the bushing spacer. ill post pic after i get home from work to show you what i mean .

trust me on this i have every single hotbodies option on my car. minus turnbuckles those are a rpm/team lunsford combo, hpi front oneway, superchassis, nitro mt rear ball diff, and wolfpack motor mounts. :o didnt mean to brag :o

KronicRacer

09-10-2003, 04:05 PM

i forgot to mention the ala ntc3 wolfpack 2 shoe 2 speed;) which is very important because the stock finger style 2speed will eventually desroy your drivetrain. esp with the novarossi ns3 race motor. http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74330&perpage=25&pagenumber=24

KronicRacer

09-10-2003, 11:06 PM

Originally posted by trini2debone
Thanks Kronic Racer for those excellent pictures!! and descriptions.

I do have one more question though...

I have the GPM turnbuckles and am thinking of getting the graphite shock towers from Hot Bodies. The only problem though is how do you get around the difference in thickness of the towers?? Won,t this make the turnbuckles at an angle to vertical?? The fornt shock tower comes with some bushings to offset this but nowhere does it say anything about the bushings for the back tower??

Please clarify!!

top view of the top. the front spacers are for the shocks , you will have to reuse the ball ends from the stock shock towers for the turnbuckles themselves.
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/475071_553605798899974429_vl.jpg

this is what the rear should look like all the ball ends are supplied
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/475070_3024119688692392748_vl.jpg

trini2debone

09-11-2003, 09:24 AM

Kronic Racer,

Thanks again for the detailed pictures. It makes it a lot easier to see the actual parts on a car. This way I can buy in confidence!!

I noticed that you had the Hot Bodies Steering Assembly. I've heard that there is a problem with the steering arm hitting the radio plate when turning left. It does not have the range of motion as the original HPI parts. Is this true??

I've also seen the GPM assembly. They offer the part including bearings etc. and the steering arm is of a different shape. Do you know if this will work better in terms of getting the full range of motion.

Good point on the Wolfpack 2 speed if I am going to install a more powerfull engine!!

Jason C

09-11-2003, 05:05 PM

Originally posted by Jason C
Can the diffs be filled with silicone diff fluid? The outdrives appear to be sealed with o-rings, but I wonder about the how well sealed the plastic diff housing is to the ring gear.

Can anyone answer my question?

Also, where can I buy the Wolfpack Radicals clutch-type 2-speed?

Thanks.

KronicRacer

09-11-2003, 06:39 PM

trini2debone

well this all depends on your toe angle... i have mine toed in 2 degrees and i have full range of steering. when you can toe them out but then thats when you start to lose steering. also there is a greater risk of the tire rubbing the bottom of the shocks and cutting grooves into them.

Jason C

i wouldnt use the diff oil theres no gasket to have a secure seal. i would use associated sleath diff lube for the rear. use a light amount, cover the gears with it. use the hpi diff spring kit if you wanna tighten or loosen the front diff.

now for the wolfpack 2 speed go to http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/shaft_2_speed.html
thats the only place you can get it. (hopefully you have paypal for a quick transaction, if not i think you can arrange something with wolfgang) you wont need the one way adapter if you have the type ss 2 speed. if you are upgrading the rtr be warned the 2 speed DOES NOT include the spur gear, pinion gears, 2 speed clutch bell and one way adapter. hope this helps:cool:

Jason C

09-11-2003, 10:25 PM

Yes, that helps a lot. Thanks, Kronic Racer.

Has anyone tried the ball diffs?

KMac

09-13-2003, 10:03 AM

Anybody looking for a almost new, hopped up RS4 3 Type SS?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3144994440&category=44015

KronicRacer

09-13-2003, 04:27 PM

Originally posted by Jason C
Yes, that helps a lot. Thanks, Kronic Racer.

Has anyone tried the ball diffs?

k since no one has answered...... there was one problem for me with the ball diffs form the nitro mt they are not heat friendly:mad: the parts warped (adjustment nut and holder were warped and stripped) when i left my nitro three in my car and it turns out i lookd every where for the part and clouldnt find it... :(. ask around in the nitro mt forum for a better ball diff is there is one. if its fits the mt itll fit the nitro three. anyway the more you tighten it the more the rear end locks up which is great if you drag race the car alot when you loosen it up the better it is in the turns how you tune it will depend on you track set up :). also its externally adjustable so all you have to do is pop off the turnbuckle and adjust!:cool:
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/478375_186770408265114012_vl.jpg

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/478374_5382805037038521509_vl.jpg

Jason C

09-14-2003, 12:32 PM

Thanks again, KronicRacer!

trini2debone

09-15-2003, 08:22 PM

I have two questions to ask...the first is a general one,

I would like to get people's opinion on the difference between Hot Bodies and GPM Racing. I thought that this would be a good question to ask since it seems like most good hop ups for HPI are from these two companies. So, come on let's hear your comments!

The second question is more specific,

Both HB and GPM make a steering assembly for the RS4/3 Type SS. From the pictures it looks like the two differ slightly. Can anyone give me some insight into the pro's and con's of each design??

newnitrofan

09-16-2003, 12:13 AM

Damn after a good day of bashing I realize if I ever even want to race my type SS Two main factors are enivitible. First I realize that an engine upgrade is needed. More importantly I need Handling upgrades. I know about that steering bellcranks taking the slop out of steering n'stuff. I am way more interested in input on Rollcenter plates, handling kits and spring recomendations. God even after not going that fast with it the ass end of the car tends to swing around from it. I need some help here!!!! Thanks in advance.

newnitrofan

09-16-2003, 12:16 AM

Originally posted by trini2debone
I have two questions to ask...the first is a general one,

I would like to get people's opinion on the difference between Hot Bodies and GPM Racing. I thought that this would be a good question to ask since it seems like most good hop ups for HPI are from these two companies. So, come on let's hear your comments!

The second question is more specific,

Both HB and GPM make a steering assembly for the RS4/3 Type SS. From the pictures it looks like the two differ slightly. Can anyone give me some insight into the pro's and con's of each design??

I know I honestly preffer hotbodies. Do I think it much matters on common parts no I don't. Maybe on shocks and nitro handling kits and stuff. It's like the same difference between powerline and megatech for the NMT. Most of the stuff is the same exact part just packaged differently. I will personally be using quite a few GPM upgrades. They tend to be a little cheeper in price from where I am sitting.

bloodwolff

09-17-2003, 06:17 AM

Has anyone installed the Roto Start in their TC? And if so.... what are your thoughts on it? I'm thinking of getting it is why I'm asking.

KronicRacer

09-17-2003, 09:53 PM

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Damn after a good day of bashing I realize if I ever even want to race my type SS Two main factors are enivitible. First I realize that an engine upgrade is needed. More importantly I need Handling upgrades. I know about that steering bellcranks taking the slop out of steering n'stuff. I am way more interested in input on Rollcenter plates, handling kits and spring recomendations. God even after not going that fast with it the ass end of the car tends to swing around from it. I need some help here!!!! Thanks in advance.

try foams(better grip jaco nitro shoes, fastire, or elligi foams). if ur running the stock rubber on tarmac thats the worst combo to use. put neg 3 degrees of camber in rear and neg 2 in front use as a starting point for camber. next would be associated red springs in rear and yellow in front. the shock oil can remain the same

RCNitroDude999

09-18-2003, 04:36 PM

hey kronic......whats your opinion on the CVEC pipes? Which is a good choice for racing.....i hear a lot about the turbo ringed pipes from ofna, do these work well?

newnitrofan

09-19-2003, 10:33 PM

Wow, thank goodness for ebay. I just purchased a bunch of hop up parts for my SS. I'm stoked I can't wait o get them here and get them installed. Sure was a lot cheaper than hopping up my NMT that's for sure. I am gonna fix that sway in the rear end one way or another. Honestly though has anyone used the nitro handling kit on their car at all?? I am a little curious to see how it works.

KronicRacer

09-20-2003, 01:54 PM

Originally posted by RCNitroDude999
hey kronic......whats your opinion on the CVEC pipes? Which is a good choice for racing.....i hear a lot about the turbo ringed pipes from ofna, do these work well?

there are three great pipes to get and they dont include the cvec..its poop imo. its adjustable but it vibrates loose.. which eventually makes for an irregular fuel pulse. the really great pipe to get is by ths its designed for the car. next would be the turbo ring paris/ofna pipes with hpi or tmaxx race header. finally there is Ace racing tnt pipe, unique design, small, compact and exteremly loud. with same headers i mentioned b4. best bet is the ths since its race legal. the paris is in the race legal grey zone and the ace is not. pick your poison:)

KronicRacer

09-20-2003, 02:15 PM

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Wow, thank goodness for ebay. I just purchased a bunch of hop up parts for my SS. I'm stoked I can't wait o get them here and get them installed. Sure was a lot cheaper than hopping up my NMT that's for sure. I am gonna fix that sway in the rear end one way or another. Honestly though has anyone used the nitro handling kit on their car at all?? I am a little curious to see how it works.

i havent used it. but it looks like it enables droop settings on the car (not even sure if its for the nitro 3, serial number wise it looks like rs4 1 type stuff) ...... to do this without the plate kit just get the super chassis then get the same screws that lock down the front c hubs. install them in the suspension arms front and rear if you look at the arms you will see where the screws go. that way you can tigheten the shock springs without having to worry that your ride height is too high. you can now achieve a 3-5 mm ride height

newnitrofan

09-20-2003, 06:05 PM

I have to say thanks for all of your help dude. You're kind of like the RS4 3 Guru on this thread. This is a full list of everything I ordered.
*Graphite Front and rear shock towers
*Graphite upper deck
*GPM Center gear carrier
*GPM Bellcranks and steering plate
*GPM Threaded adjustable shocks all the way around
*GPM Front steering Knuckles
*GPM Front Lower Bulkhead
*GPM Front and rear control arms
*New HPI Racer Tank
*Associated Full spring set for touring cars
*Fantom FR15
*Vented rotor brake disc, not sure what kind that was a while ago
*New Receiver Pack 6.0 Volt lay down kind

Wow that's actually a lot of hop ups for one weekend. I will actually be getting the front and rear sway bars. I swear if this doesn't do it I'm gonna buy some tires. HEHE I know i need to get the super chassis. Hey if anyone wants cheep hop ups check out Itamiya on ebay. He's in Hong Kong and some of the parts ar totally worth the wait. Later

KronicRacer

09-22-2003, 09:38 AM

which fantom did you get the 02 fr15 (bronze head) or the 03fr15 (red head)? the 03s have the option to be equipped with boost bottles from factory.

KronicRacer

09-22-2003, 10:10 AM

Originally posted by bloodwolff
Has anyone installed the Roto Start in their TC? And if so.... what are your thoughts on it? I'm thinking of getting it is why I'm asking.

i havent used it (have starter box). it would save you some bucks since the pull starts tend to snap over time. its also made to make it start easier.:)

newnitrofan

09-22-2003, 11:36 PM

Having a boost bottle would be really cool. I'm starting to get hooked up with my local roar club. It's going a little slow but that's ok for on road racing because there are no in door on road tracks here. It's too rainy out during winter months in Oregon. However I did just discover that there is an indoor offroad track just a little ways north of me and it's ventilated enough to run nitro any time of the day. I"M friggin stoked totally. I totally forgot it's the 02 bronze head.

KronicRacer

09-23-2003, 11:56 AM

the hpi two shoe type two speed is now available overseas $55 b4 shipping. the new alternative to those who are afraid to run the wolfpack 2speed
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/product_info.php?cPath=2_20&products_id=2759

newnitrofan

09-23-2003, 10:38 PM

Question?? What is the advantage to running this type of two speed. I actually plan on getting the Wolfpack two speed down the road a piece. If I could afford it all I would buy all of my hop ups from wolfgang. I can't say enough good about him. The two speed I have in my truck now will eventually reside in my Nitro MT

bloodwolff

09-24-2003, 01:14 AM

Thanks for the reply Kronic. I have gotten some ideas that I plan on doing from reading the posts on this thread. I'm also thinking of haveing a friend of mine custom machine some parts for me. :)

KronicRacer

09-24-2003, 07:02 PM

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Question?? What is the advantage to running this type of two speed. I actually plan on getting the Wolfpack two speed down the road a piece. If I could afford it all I would buy all of my hop ups from wolfgang. I can't say enough good about him. The two speed I have in my truck now will eventually reside in my Nitro MT

the main advantage is that the shoes will not destroy the drive drain as easy as the type ss stock 2 speed will. (and its a wolfgag product:D )

bloodwolff: good to hear this thread has inspired u...... share your thoughts when you get a chance, i could use a few new fresh ideas myself, for this car...