HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[hpirs43ss]

I was wondering if an sg-crankshaft engine like the fantom .18 would fit in my car ? Would I need a new clutch and flywheel ? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.:confused: :D

[newnitrofan]

Sup HPIRS4 3 guy. Umm the fantom .18 if it has an SG style crank everything should work out just fine. You will need to get a hold of a new clutch nut though to hold down the flywheel. Let me know how that turns out. I got a fantom .15 for mine and man am I happy with that. Later

[KronicRacer]

Interstate, hpirs43ss

get the yokomo clutch nut lile new nitro fan said. and use all the stuff from the regular 2 speed, it should fit. the motor may/will sit to far back, you may/will need adustable motor mounts for this. go to www.wolfpackradicals.com for info on the mounts

[SixVi6-Camaro]

crap.. my RS4 3 SS tripped, fell, and landed on a hyper 8 port.. :D


http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/21rs43ss_01.jpg

[newnitrofan]

Dude that's a tough break. I have only rolled mine once and that was enough for me. I however was a little more fortunate than you were. Never the less good luck man.

[KronicRacer]

ouch.. i flipped mine: lost it turning to hard and it went in the grass and fliped twice end over end. thank god for the grass:D

[hpirs43ss]

Thanks for the info guys, my tired old .12Rss can hardly make the thing shift anymore even though there aren't any scratches on the internals-oh well-im gettin a Fantom!:D

[hpirs43ss]

Thanks for the info guys, my tired old .12Rss can hardly make the thing shift anymore even though there aren't any scratches on the internals-oh well-im gettin a Fantom!:D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hpirs43ss
Thanks for the info guys, my tired old .12Rss can hardly make the thing shift anymore even though there aren't any scratches on the internals-oh well-im gettin a Fantom!:D

FR12 '03 rear exhaust with boost bottle!!!:cool:

[josh22]

I seen this guy that converted his RS4 3 Type SS into a part SS part Mt. It is cool it has like 1.5-2.0 inches of ground clearence and still has its speed and handling from the SS.

I want to convert my SS into a rally. I was thinking of using the shock towers and shocks from a Mt and putting them on my SS. I know that i would have to file down the c hubs for more ground clearence. Would this work? or will i have to get the a-arms from the Mt. I am hoping i don't so that i can keep the wheels in the body. Will this work?

[Needler56]

i don't have an rs4 ss and i was wondering if the steering servo sits on the chassis or is it slightly hovering above it?

[josh22]

Needler56 the steering servo on my new RS4 3 Type SS is about 3mm above the chassi and is held in place by the radio tray. You might not no that the radio tray is held on by 3 body clips. :)

[2mcgrath]

anybody interested in buying a rs4 3 ss it has the 12 rss engine with about a gallon through it.. only thing wrong with car is it needs new tires will come with some different sets of wheels.. it has carbon fiber top plate and shock towers,vented light weight flywheel..racing fuel tank also two extra tanks..golden horzion chassis also stock chassis and stock top plate..fuel filter..also has a race clutch and will also come with stock clutch..red shock springs in front yellow in rear also stock springs and two extra shocks will come with car ..comes with sway bars..ball bearing steering..heat sink engine mounts and will also come with stock engine mounts..team associated tuned pipe and will come with stock pipe..also comes with almost enough parts to build another car..also a brand new extra one way bearing..two bodies..some ball diffs they need the diff gears replaced..car has the stock diffs on it..comes with a futaba radio and a traxxas radio and 4 servo's and two receiver's..a glow igniter..only thing wrong with the futaba radio is the battery door is broken so it has to be taped but doesnt hurt it at all..comes with extra dogbones and axles and a arm's and hinge pins.also comes with a one speed tranny and a two speed tranny comes with purple pinion set and gold set.. extra axle bearings.. to much to list..i am asking $350.00 shipped..

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by josh22
I seen this guy that converted his RS4 3 Type SS into a part SS part Mt. It is cool it has like 1.5-2.0 inches of ground clearence and still has its speed and handling from the SS.

I want to convert my SS into a rally. I was thinking of using the shock towers and shocks from a Mt and putting them on my SS. I know that i would have to file down the c hubs for more ground clearence. Would this work? or will i have to get the a-arms from the Mt. I am hoping i don't so that i can keep the wheels in the body. Will this work?

ive seen it posted in this thread i think its in: hpi rs4 3/rs43 ss forum v1.0 and its very possible to do it. the thing is you also need new shocks for the conversion and longer turnbuckles.

[RCNitroDude999]

Is there a such thing as a racing fuel tank for the rs4 3?? If so..whats a website that carries them?

[KronicRacer]

the hpi racer 2 fuel tank.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVK16&P=0

fuel stopper to stop the motor
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYR4&P=0

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Anyone plan on getting the rtr evo with the new hpi t-15?

Sounds like a good spec at a reasonable price.

Nitro~Freek

[Kenny T]

Type tripple S (http://www.ozryderz.com/reviews/r_triples.php)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Nitro~Freek!!!
Anyone plan on getting the rtr evo with the new hpi t-15?

Sounds like a good spec at a reasonable price.

Nitro~Freek

sound like a great deal if you dont have one.

kenny t:
love the motor selection. the rest of the car is not bad, could be better.;) needs tranny work (W.P.R. 2shoe 2speed, center force centax, center cvds, rear ball diff.)
the brake looks stock it maybe the fiber one, why not the vented stainless steel brake? :confused: its not yours is it?

[kkiel02]

Just got my 1st rs4 ss and it is so much better than I had expected of course it is upgraded. Also I am working on taking the stock parts and making another SS out of that, which was started when I got the car. Cant wait to hit the track this weekend!

[Kenny T]

Kronic, it's not mine. Just thought I'd post it.

My RS4 3 SS still isn't here yet. I am very disappointed. :( :mad: but I still got the brushless pro3 to play with.

[josh22]

Kenny T I hope yours comes soon it should only take you a few hours to put it together. Just remember to set the pipe distance from the header right( I for got and all the car could do was burnouts and doughnuts:D ) oh ya there is a stupid clip in the diffs that is so hard to put in:mad:

[RCisLife]

Hey guys, there's this guy who's offering to sell his HPI RS4 RTR 3 nitro with 12ss engine and includes a 2 speed transmission. The car's chassis is completely scratched up.. very bad... missing a few screws here and there.. needs tires and rims (chipped).. and without a body. OOH.. and the compression on the 12ss is very loose.. hardly no compression at all. Anyhow, the dude was asking around $150 for it but I've gotten it down to about $60-70 bucks.. Do you guys feel this is a decent price for this rtr? Its obvious its going to need a lot of work and possibly a new engine.. but is it worth the price? I know $60 or 70 bucks isn't a whole lot but in the long long is it going to cost me more to fix up????

Please, Please help...

[KronicRacer]

the comperssion on the motor can be deciving
when the 12rss doesnt have fuel its very loose on the pullstart when the cylinder ring gets filled with fuel the compression skyrockets on it.

the shell should be 20 bucks 30 total with (one color) paint. tires another 20-30. i wouldnt get one(personally) but these are questions you should ask yourself and the guy (if you havent already); is the guy offering you a glow plug igniter also? the chassis is wreacked(sratched) whats you race venue going to be street or track if its street that chassis shouldnt last much longer if its track well itll have a long life(as long as you dont get wreacked) but it wont be track worthy. does the pullstart look good on the motor? are the suspension arms any good do they have chips in them? are the camber links tight? do the cvds look bent? exactly how many screws are missing? how rtr is it does it have radio equipment? are the servos shot? this isnt a cheap hobby :( gas doesnt power rc cars, money does. anyways im thinking that the base rtr should be taking a price drop very soon with the new evo coming out. the thing of it is that the base rtr doesnt have the 2 speed or 12 r ss. screws are not too had to come by so youre in luck in that department.

[RCisLife]

Thank you for your help, KronicRacer. I actually went ahead and bought it. I gave him $45 instead of the $65 of what the guy wanted it for. And guess what? you were right! It still has tons of compression in it!!! As soon as I got home, made some adjustments to the carb, filled the tank and fired that puppy... and it started right up! This was one of the big issues worrying me. Now knowing that the 12ss works perfect, I can focus on all the other parts that need replacement. I'm estimating that it should probably run me about $60-70 bucks or so for the parts needed to get this puppy on the road. Around here where I live (Southern Cal.) these cars runs about $239.99 or so when on sale. So I figure I saved myself about $150 including tax... not bad. This is my third nitro car... but my first on-road car. Aside from my T-Maxx 2.5 and Kyosho Kanai II, I wanted to have an onroad car to add to my collection but didn't want to fork out the hefty price tag for a new one. As you said the chassis will definitely need replacement in time.. but for now its fairly sturdy.
For the price I feel that I got a lot of bang for my buck. Thanks again! :)

[Crawl-N-Clod]

I have an hpi rs4 3 and I am wanting to put some lunsford titanium turnbuckles on it anyone know wich kit will fit it???????????????????????

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Crawl-N-Clod
I have an hpi rs4 3 and I am wanting to put some lunsford titanium turnbuckles on it anyone know wich kit will fit it???????????????????????

this is for exact fit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3159365905&category=34063

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3158648406&category=34063

thats the kit you'll want to get. is it better than lunsford, i have no idea. but titanium is titanium. lunsford doesnt seem to have stuff for hpi at the moment. if you really really want lunsford your gonna have to get the individual turnbuckles (just measure the ones on the type ss to know what size you are getting)and they have them available at tower hobbies all individually. pick your poison. (i used the lunsford kit for the rs4/rs42 (cant remember the exact one))

RCisLife

OMG doode $45 bucks! thats even better than $65. if you get a chassis get the super chassis from hpi (its a screw saver and very sturdy)http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[Crawl-N-Clod]

Kronic, Thanks for the info. I have a couple more questions for you if you dont mind I'm kinda new to the racing sceen (been flying airplanes for the last 6 years). What does a front one way do?? is it something you need and is it worth the cash? If you use a front one way would you want to run a ball diff in the rear or leave it stock?

[KronicRacer]

well the front one way diff helps in the turns but you have to be off of the throttle. once you get to a straightaway start coming out of the turn and put the hammer down it locks the diff and it pulls you along. . (on demand diff locker) you have to be concious about the throttle in the turns or you will destroy the onway bearings. yes its worth it

the ball diff is one of those items that should be included with the car out of the box. its definately easier to service than the stock diffs. they are externally adjustable so you can have youre own personal dialed in setting for the rear. its much better to than having to tear it down to adjust it. and this one is a must

[Crawl-N-Clod]

Thanks for the info Kronic I found this on tower maybe you can tell me if its what I need.

Front one way (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=A959&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go)

As far as the ball diff's I dont think mine has them its the RTR RS4-3. I found this on tower. Would this be the one I need?

Ball diff (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=A905&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go)

I aslo found one for the MT but I didnt figure it was the right one.

[KronicRacer]

this is exactly what you want: (click on them)


front one way by hot bodies (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3158641620&category=34063)

hpi nitro mt ball diff (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB57&P=7) http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[Crawl-N-Clod]

:D Thanks, Kronic :D

[hilbren]

how can I install a nova mega on my hpi rs4 3. because the shaft is 5mm to short.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey people, I have a NRS4-3, and currently it has a Fantom FR15 Pullstart engine in it, but lately it hasn't been working like it should, and I have also been looking into either a .12 engine for perhaps club racing or a .18 engine just for lotsa speed.....

......so I was wondering what engine in either .12 or .18 that you guys recommend....

I don't want to have to modify any shafts or anything like that, but I would if I had to. I was looking into the new rear-exhaust .12 engine HPI came out with...but how good would it go in my car? And does it use a different type of clutch from the NRS4-3?

My list of mods include:
-Fantom FR15 engine
-2-speed tranny
-Woven graphite upper deck
-Front woven graphite shock tower
-Rear woven graphite shock tower
-Titanium turnbuckles
-HD Front one-way
-Aluminum lower front and rear arms



Also, I was considering adding a 5th body post to my car, but should it go in the rear or the front?

Sorry if these questions have already been asked, but I'm not in the mood to search through 22 pages.....

Thanks

[hilbren]

all hpi .12 and .15 engines wil fit on your car. you can find the engine with the rear exhaust on http://www.nitroreview.com/compare/homeengines.cfm

A 5th body post only helps when your body collapses at high speeds, if it doesn’t collapse don’t place a 5th body post it only adds extra weight.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Thanks for the link to all the engines, its really cool and I can see exact specifications on all of them.

As for the 5th body post, its not that my body collapses at high speeds, it seems the rear of the body is sorta "loose" and can wobble some from side to side. I could add washers or something, but the body will still have a little flex to it, so I was wondering if a 5th post would make it more stable attached to the car.

I'm not really conscerned with the small amount of weight that a 5th post would add.

Also, another question (last one!), would I have to do any major tweaking for a slide carburetor on the car, as in having to totally re-adjust my settings? I noticed that on other TC's with slide-carbs it seems the servo is pulling straight away from the carb, but on the NRS4-2 it pulls from the side.

Thanks for the help.

[hilbren]

That depents on wich carb you take, my nova mega (I still have problems with installing, please help me?) has a slidecarb that is to big and hits my brake plates when it’s fully shifted out

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I don't mean a different sized carburetor, its that I want to replace my FR15 with a slide-carb engine, and from the looks of it on other TC's with slide-carbs it seems that the servo pulls straight away from the carb, but on the RS4-3 the throttle servo is placed to the side of the engine...so that it pushes from the side of it....so would I have to do a lot of adjusting to go from slide to rotary?

If I am being unclear, just ignore me :D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hilbren
how can I install a nova mega on my hpi rs4 3. because the shaft is 5mm to short.

if its too short go here -> www.wolfpackradicals.com they have adjustable motor mounts to take care of the coming up short problem.


HPI-Fan-4-Ever

well i would say stick with(opinion) fantom, except get the fr12 03 (red heat sink) non pullstart, slide carb, rear exhaust, threaded crank or sg. get the ofna slide carb kit. the kit should have all the hardware you need for the slide carb look at the (ntc3). all you have to do then is you have to adjust the radio settings (reverse the throttle/brake polarity on the controller settings) here and there. also make sure the carb points towards the rear and not forward where it can hit the brake assembly. im not quite sure on the new hpi motor. what ever it may be, you can use both sg and threaded cranks on the nitro 3. all you need for the sg is the yokomo clutch nut (that i still havent gotten exact part info for, yet.) the only dillema has been using the centax clutch on the threaded crank. (another item that im still investigating)
using the standard clutch is greatly reccomended. if theres anything else to upgrade its the 2speed. which can also be found at www.wolfpackradicals.com. even though hpi also has a new 2 speed it offers. i kno i saw it on an overseas website (not quite sure if its stateside yet)
http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Thanks for the tips, I had looked into the FR12 and it seemed like a very nice engine. Also, the new rear-exhaust HPI .12 engine looks good. My clutch is stock, except that I have a 2-speed on the car. I was wondering, is there anything like different clutch shoes or harder/softer springs for it? My clutch shoes I have now seems to be wearing a little bit, as are the springs.

I noticed that there are stronger clutch shoes for other TC's that use a similar clutch to the NRS4-3, but would adding stronger shoes or shoes of a different material change performance, like if it engaged harder or sooner?

I want the clutch to engage a little sooner, but how would I adjust this on the NRS4-3's standard clutch?'

Yikes, I'm startin to sound like a newb at this :confused:

Thanks for the help!

[hilbren]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
if its too short go here -> www.wolfpackradicals.com they have adjustable motor mounts to take care of the coming up short problem.




that won't solve the problem... I can move my engine to the front because then the carb wil hit my brake. so Im looking for a way to extent the shaft.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hilbren
that won't solve the problem... I can move my engine to the front because then the carb wil hit my brake. so Im looking for a way to extent the shaft.

you do know that the carb is adjustable, right? point the carb away from the brake assembly (post pics if you can, it may be something simple) now as for the crank, can you mount all of the hpi hardware? (collet,flywheel, pilotshaft clutchshoes and clutchbell?)
if you cant there is a problem and the motor may need a new crank, also you never did mention if it was threaded or sg.

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

they do have a different clutch, the racing clutch hpi offers
part number a885 it hooks up alot better since it has alot more clutch surface. can be also adjusted to when it engages, instructions are included on how to do this to get an idea what the packaging looks like http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3164945270&category=34063

[hilbren]

I already adjusted the carb but it is a real big carb, look here for a picture: http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=679

http://www.pkracing.nl/Images/sx12se.jpg

[number76]

just wanted to say hi, and I just got a brand new HPI RTR RS4 3 EVO Viper, and I am so happy to get into nitro cars... I have been in electric rc for 20 years now, and I have finally decided to go NITRO...:) hope I made a good choice, and I am already looking at hopups as we speak... any advice would be great...
thanks all
Ryan P

PS: man this car is so freakin cool when you open it up out of the box...:eek:

also: I am looking at a few tuned pipes:

THS pipe and header set

FANTOM Natural tuned pipe (should I get a single or dual stage???)

Paris Turbo ringed

ace outlaw pipe

any others you all recommend??? how's the factory aluminum hpi one???:)
thanks again for the help...

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey people out there,

I just had a brilliant idea. My street is nothing but pure ice, about an inch of it, no snow on top or anything :D ....

So, I was wondering, what would need to be done to an NRS4-3 to "ice-proof" it?

I have rally tires, an old body, the chassis set up how I would want it, and I plan on probably wrapping the dogbones in something like electrical tape, and using my rally air filter. Because of how the road is, there is a small, if any, chance the car willl actually get wet.

Also, I know I need to wrap the electronics and wiring in a balloon, just in case.

Another reason I wanna do this is that this punk little kid down the road has a cheap Tyco Hummer that goes no more than 5 mph. They were out driving it in the ice, and everyone was all like "oooh" and "aaaahhhh", so it inspired me.

Or...is this idea a total fiasco waiting to happen or what?

[racer234]

hilbren- You could try installing another carb, such as an OS or something. It will cost a bit, but it's a solution.

[racer234]

HPI-Fan-4-Ever- you could do it, just don't let the drifts and slides get out of control, lol :)

[KronicRacer]

hilbren

another suggestion would be to take off the slide carb cover(iffy).
that or a new carb like racer234 mentioned
also grinding down the nut on the brake might be in order. when i ran my sirio i ran into the same trouble. i used the motor mounts by w.p.r. and it sat too far back. ive been trying to remember why the sirio outlaw 12 with slide carb fit now i remember. i didnt bug me that it didnt mesh all the way (1/2). i quickly swapped the motor (fr12 03). ill check out a few things and may come up with a simple solution by end of weekend.

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

LOL just make sure the tyco is not on the same frequency you are.

[the-one1]

HPI-Fan-4-Ever: with rubber tires, it will just spin and slide, what I did to my rs4 3 was put worn out spares over slicks and i put alot of thumb tacks through the tires to make spikes to grab the ice. Runs great on ice but bad on aspalht.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Wow, I never thought of the tack-through-the-tread idea, I'll have to try that ;)

Is there any kind of chained-tires possibly for the electric MT? Like the wheel has the chains attached to it to grip in the snow a lot better, I think I have seen them for the Savage...or is this something I would have to do myself?

[rcmania67]

I have been ruinning elec tc3 for over 2 yrs for fun. I want to get into nitro and looking at evo rtr. I know it comes with 2 speed.

How fast will the rtr go?

What do I need to get started?

Is it easy to get started?

Is ir easy to take care?

[number76]

just wanted to say hi, and I just got a brand new HPI RTR RS4 3 EVO Viper, and I am so happy to get into nitro cars... I have been in electric rc for 20 years now, and I have finally decided to go NITRO... hope I made a good choice, and I am already looking at hopups as we speak... any advice would be great...
thanks all
Ryan P

PS: man this car is so freakin cool when you open it up out of the box...

also: I am looking at a few tuned pipes:

THS pipe and header set

FANTOM Natural tuned pipe (should I get a single or dual stage???)

Paris Turbo ringed

ace outlaw pipe

any others you all recommend??? how's the factory aluminum hpi one???
thanks again for the help...

[rico750sxi]

I've been happy with my CVEC dual outlet pipe. It's got a nice sound that I love. I have also tried the RDLogics pipe and header set. Like that one too, it's on my other RS4-3. Couldn't tell you how big of a gain I got from either though. I installed the CVEC at the same time as a 2 speed and other options then I switched to the RDLogics at the same time as installing my Fantom engine. I have switched back to the CVEC with the Fantom, it seems to be a good combo.

[number76]

so are the fantoms any good??? also which is better single or dual chamber??? also will the hpi amuminum header that comes with the stock evo be ok???
thanks its that or a ths pipe set:)

[rico750sxi]

I may be wrong but the EVO comes with the composite tuned pipe doesn't it? One other thing I liked about the two pipes I mentioned is that the pressure line is correct for the RS4-3. Even with the HPI aluminum pipe the nipple will be on the bottom because the pipe was designed before the RS4-3 came out.

[KronicRacer]

the fantoms are great but from what i remember seeing they were more designed for belt drive and ntc3 exhuast setups.

paris, ace, fantom single chamber: is for topspeed dragracing
ths, fantom dual chambered: is for torque on demand. tight (small) technical tracks.


number 76:
www.meganitro.com (hotbodies HQ) hot bodies hop ups are good.
also jet racing is good(overseas parts and ordering) just hard to find.
good upgrades to get are the cvds and center drive shafts, that or the hpi black race header it may come with the evo, dont remember. or you can go for the HB cg upperdeck, actually now that i think about it shocks would be a great thing to get. there a pain in the rear when you start losing shock adjustment clips. a nice set of light weight threaded composite (r40) or threaded aluminum shocks. what ever your budget maybe theres a set for you.http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[number76]

thanks!!! so you are telling me a dual chamber is the way to go for parking lot bashing, and just driving around the neighborhood???:)
Thanks
RYan

[KronicRacer]

yup ths is very good http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[number76]

so go with the ths over the fantom??? it does seem like the better deal, but what do you think???:)

[turbo s15]

hey im looking at a tc3 rtr with a 2 speed or a rtr evo 3


which do you guys like better.


anyone know the top speed of the new evo 3 rtr.


im guessing around 50

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by number76
so go with the ths over the fantom??? it does seem like the better deal, but what do you think???:)

the fantom pipes are going to be a hassel since the pressure nipple is already preinstalled.



turbo s15
im not even sure what the topspeed is either, but i too agree 40-50mph. but if you can get an rtr ntc3 with 2 speed and have experience. id say go for the ntc3 you have more gearing options to go faster in the 60-65 mph range (ive even heard 70 mph on some accounts):eek: the faster the ntc3 goes the better it handles. unlike the nitro 3's, which tend to get unstable (the rear breaking loose and fishtailing.)

[turbo s15]

well i have exprience but not with nitro but expirenece with the same kind of speed with the electric i have now.

im just hoping its not too too hard to install the fully assembled 2 speed.

i read instructions good so that might help.:(


could you explain the roto start for me.


is it like the e-z start for a traxxas in familar terms.

[KronicRacer]

well roto start is for the pullstart engines, and its pretty cool from what ive heard. it replaces the pullstart assembly with the roto start assembly. you still need the glowplug igniter and the roto start which is like a drill that you put into the assembly on the motor. good thing about it is that you can get consistant starts and dont have to worry about the pullstart rope breaking. thats common, considering motors tend to run at or around 250 deg f. and have fluid spewing in the near vacinity. and first time out you may experience a few over heating sessions (which is nothing to be looked down upon) with the motor. bottom line its not good for motor or the pullstart.


eventually you may get to the point youll be using a starter box and non pullstart engines. untill that day comes roto start is not a must, it is a very convinent item to have.http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[2 speed nitro]

please post pix of you evo.....thanx....the evo can use all the hop upz from the ss right? thanx

[sexfreakR6]

Hello guys i'm new here...i had the Evo mid august and the car is as durable as it can get . i'm so pleased with my purchase. My Cuz bought his Evo 2 weeks after i ran the car. the only mods i have right now is the racing gas tank(72525), Dynamite air filter, and a Fantom Dual chamber pipe! The primer gas tank created lotsof problem. first, it leaks thus losing pressure and not having a consistent fuel flow through the carb. car dies numerous times, gets the car really dirty leaking through the primer too. The racing gas tank helps enormously. A good flow of flowing gas/fuel consistency. On top of that i also got myself A fuel line by Dynamite.com. Why dynamite? they are quality fuel lines i promise . don't buy those chepo "ohh give me 4 foot of fuel line pls" . exp the chepo version
slides off the nipple too easy but the dynamite fuel lines sticks like a glue. ..you have to erally pull it off hard to take it off. Another reason air tight! Good stuff!
Yes Fantom pipe did wonders to my already fast car. ...the only mods i had to do was to raise the tank so thepressure nipple is not touching the tank. easy mods. an additional mod i did to my car includes porting the header. most of the time the engine's exhaust port and the opening in the header don't match. Opening of the header is always too small and restricts the flow of the gases. i use a rotary tool to open up the port a little .

On top of that i also tune the tuned pipe! Shorten the header by a bit. Shorter headers length are appropriate for high winding engines and they tend to make more HP. after i did all this mods my car runs like ****! I had to re-tuned the engine setting again to accomodate the new mods i did to it. I gladly did it !
If i do say so my self my EVO is faster then most Evos out there hehe. Let me know what you guys are doing to your evos. i'll probably post some pics later and thanks everyone. this board is gonna be great!

So far i have run 4 sets of tires so far. Currently using race foam tires. this should last longer!:) Keep in touch fellas, i wil need your guys opinion sometime.....

another thing..fantom pipe is made of steel.A tad heavy but i'm not picky... My cuz bought the HPI tuned pipe made of aluminuim. dent the thing in the first run with me in the straights. Not cool at all. Steel resonates gases better then aluminium. ohh well , just got to fantomracing.com and read abou it there.

[sexfreakR6]

i run my car at a parking lot college coliseum. This lot is hugeand always empty unless any event ever held in the coli seum that day. Another good reason for not running the car in that risky tight spot parking lots. Safest place to run out nitro cars.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by 2 speed nitro
please post pix of you evo.....thanx....the evo can use all the hop upz from the ss right? thanx

the only difference between the evo and the other versions of the nitro 3 are that it has the new .15 motor, 2 speed and is rtr. all hop ups are useable.

sexfreakR6
you ported your header too? cool i did the same a while ago and i also semi polished it.
i held off on the fantom pipe because of the nipple location. but good to hear the pipe fits. now im stuck. new pipe for my nitro 3, new front oneway for my ntc3, front one way for my r40, or new crank for my fantom? ugh decisions decisions:( http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[number76]

I am now leaning on a RD Logics pipe, as that seems to be a very good deal??? now for a stock rs4 3 evo with me upgrading it later, which pipe to buy??? should I go race legal,turbo race legal, outlaw, or outlaw turbo??? man too many choices...:)

[hOndafienD]

so there would be gains by shortening the header?

[sexfreakR6]

Quote Radio Control Nitro:
Start with a pipe that is at least as long as you'll need , and shorten it as necesary, if your header and pipe combo is too long for your car , TRIM THE MINIMUM AMOUNT OF THE HEADER to get it to fit without teh pipe and header rubbing together. only 1/8 inch nothing more!

This mod is appropriate for high windin engines, and they tend to make more power, but they make the engine peakier and more sensitive to other tuning.Thats what happen to mine. Nothing other then simple re-tune the valve would not correct this....so do it! Longer pipes with larger volumes give an engine a broader powerband and are more forgiving to tune. depending on your car, track or driving style, you may want a longer pipe to help it dig out of corners or a shorter pipe to make it scream on the straights.

[sexfreakR6]

The nipple thingy was the only flaw. I had to reversed the installtion. But it was no big deal. i had to raise the fuel tank to avoid teh nipple, but you know what, this is good too cause if you use the prpimer tank, the bottom does hit the bottom of the chassis! that is not good. I'm sure you guys have seen the marking made after parts to parts friction with tank and chassis, right? Thus too much tank banging would lead to leaking and tank wear more rapidly. My cuz is still using his factory tank and leaks pretty bad. he had to prime prime prime and prime and at the same time roto start the engine. Dead, after short run!

[sexfreakR6]

kronicracer:now im stuck. new pipe for my nitro 3, new front oneway for my ntc3, front one way for my r40, or new crank for my fantom? ugh decisions decisions

How do you like your R40? I want it soooo bad. Do you race um or occasional parking lot bashing? How does it hold up in the parking lots. i heard alot from others that R40 are not good for the lots and are appropriate for race tracks. thanks

[rs43evo]

i have had my evo for 3 weeks now, i got the fantom pipe just today and noticed that the installation is strange, it doesnt have a mounting bracket, i zip tied like stock but what should i do to keep it from moving around and coming off completely??? PLEASE HELP I RUN IN THE MORNING!

[sexfreakR6]

Actually its not strange, the fantom pipe is as you can see not made for our evo in particular. THS pipe, outlaw and others have made pipe for our cars that mount it on the right side of the car. Do not run your car until you get this: go to a local hobby shop an get a (music wire). make sure you get the one that fit the end of the pipe. OR get the smallest (allen key)local wal-mart or hardware store, to fit the end of the pipe and get a (pipe collar) to hold the pipe to the wire hanger. I got lucky and use one of my old rc cars to the new evo.

Ohh did you flare the ends of the header and pipe? if the ends of the header and pipe is smooth, the coupler might slide off, even witht he zip ties holding it in place. flaring the ends of the header and pipe will give the zip tie some grip. use a screw driver to flare it in circle motion until it opens up enough.

Don't forget to raise your tank also not to interfere with tthe pressure nipple . by doing so help with less parts to parts friction between the tank bottom and the top chassis

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by sexfreakR6
kronicracer:now im stuck. new pipe for my nitro 3, new front oneway for my ntc3, front one way for my r40, or new crank for my fantom? ugh decisions decisions

How do you like your R40? I want it soooo bad. Do you race um or occasional parking lot bashing? How does it hold up in the parking lots. i heard alot from others that R40 are not good for the lots and are appropriate for race tracks. thanks

if i use it outside the track i make sure that the surface is somewhat clean (which is a pain the belts dont like pebble or rocks). other than that the car is awsome it hugs corner like an animal even at high speed. downside to it is that its as heavy as a brick and the front diff(stock) is leaking, gotta tear down to see whats going on there. now im waiting for the ligter racing chassis (still waiting after one week, ebay auction :mad: )

the paris racing pipe has been has been very good and its easy to create a flange on it so the zip tie holds to the rubber without sliping off.

[KronicRacer]

.

[KronicRacer]

...

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey guys,

Nice lookin ride, KronicRacer, but how did you get that wiry-mesh look on your venting and grills?

Also, bad news on my Fantom FR15!! The compression is gone, and it seems the engine has "died" on me. I have checked everything possible, changed the glow plug, and I am 100% sure that the pullstarter works right.

I even had my clutch rebuilt before I tried starting it so it isn't that....

luckily, I still have the original HPI .15 engine.

but, does anyone know how many HP the HPI engine has? And, the clutch is still stock for my car, so I don't imagine I will have to mod anything to get it back on.

Until then, would the new HPI .18 engine drop right in my car without any mods, and will the 2 speed fit it? I decided I like the idea of going over 55 mph with my car, and it will be a great joy up at the track. Also, if it doesn't fit right in, what mods do I need to do? I'm willing to do anything I need to.

While I'm rambling on, is there any way to get swaybars to work with aluminum A-arms? I have some from HotBodies, but the round things the bars slide into don't snap into the arms like they would if the arms were carbon....or do I have to go back to carbon?

Whew!!! Thanks in advance! I will try and post my car soon!

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever
Hey guys,

Nice lookin ride, KronicRacer, but how did you get that wiry-mesh look on your venting and grills?

Also, bad news on my Fantom FR15!! The compression is gone, and it seems the engine has "died" on me. I have checked everything possible, changed the glow plug, and I am 100% sure that the pullstarter works right.

I even had my clutch rebuilt before I tried starting it so it isn't that....

luckily, I still have the original HPI .15 engine.

but, does anyone know how many HP the HPI engine has? And, the clutch is still stock for my car, so I don't imagine I will have to mod anything to get it back on.

Until then, would the new HPI .18 engine drop right in my car without any mods, and will the 2 speed fit it? I decided I like the idea of going over 55 mph with my car, and it will be a great joy up at the track. Also, if it doesn't fit right in, what mods do I need to do? I'm willing to do anything I need to.

While I'm rambling on, is there any way to get swaybars to work with aluminum A-arms? I have some from HotBodies, but the round things the bars slide into don't snap into the arms like they would if the arms were carbon....or do I have to go back to carbon?

Whew!!! Thanks in advance! I will try and post my car soon!

first off i used goop to glue in the mesh and it holds like no other.

second you'd be better off with the 12r xs(1.35hp).(its lighter than the .18)

third the .15fe has .5-.7 hp.

4th aluminum a arms are just for show all they do is weigh you down and transfer/absorb impact energy to the lower bulkhead.

5th back to the fantom. there is a compression ring that needs to be filled with fluid on the piston to create maximum pressure on fantom race motors (this is on all high power motors)if the is no fuel present there will be no compression or so it seems. remove the glow plug and with a dropper drop in 4-5 drops of after run oil or the fuel that you are now using. proceed to pull on the pullstart there should be pressure back now. if not, there is something else did you make sure to check if the cooling head was tightened down. you may need allen key (wrenches) to do this the screws on the cooling head(heat sink) will loosen up over time.

[tl_ke_racer]

yay! im gonna be orderin a ss kit of towers in a few days,
i'll make a list of what im getting with it see if theirs anything missin that i might need to get it running, besides a glow starter and batts.

Nitro RS4 3 Kit /Acura RSX Body/2-Channel Radio Combo
Pactra Polycarb 3 oz. Blue Streak
Great Planes Pro CA Glue 1 oz. Thin
DuraTrax Silver Sport Glow Plug (2)
DuraTrax Red Alert 20% Car Fuel Quart (2)

i think i got everything but if i didnt tell me, and why is it that the acura rsx version of the ss is cheaper, thats the one im gettin, i wanted to get a the trans-am but im not payin a extra 10 bucks for it.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
yay! im gonna be orderin a ss kit of towers in a few days,
i'll make a list of what im getting with it see if theirs anything missin that i might need to get it running, besides a glow starter and batts.

Nitro RS4 3 Kit /Acura RSX Body/2-Channel Radio Combo
Pactra Polycarb 3 oz. Blue Streak
Great Planes Pro CA Glue 1 oz. Thin
DuraTrax Silver Sport Glow Plug (2)
DuraTrax Red Alert 20% Car Fuel Quart (2)

i think i got everything but if i didnt tell me, and why is it that the acura rsx version of the ss is cheaper, thats the one im gettin, i wanted to get a the trans-am but im not payin a extra 10 bucks for it.

you will also need the hpi racing or dynamite starter kit. which should include glowplug igniter with charger, glow plug wrench, fuel lines, and a fuel bottle also os max glow plugs are better than duratrax(crap), also bluethunder race fuel and or odonnell race fuel are better than the duratrax stuff(crap).

[tl_ke_racer]

i got a glow starter witha charger and a fuel bottle, the kit doesnt come with the fuel lines though?

[Mpower_15]

Hey peeps just bought the new hpi rs4 rtr evo 3 :D

just wonderin what u think i should get in the hopups department and if u could tell me the actual top speed of the car, stock and more importantly what its capable of with hopups. I havnt had the chance to try it out yet actually i havnt even done the break in process yet but ive got money burnin a hole in my pocket and just wanted to know wat i should look forward to.
Thanks.

[microrcdude]

it comes with feul lines. They are just extra

[tl_ke_racer]

so do i need to buy extra fuel lines? i put a thing of 3' tubing in my kart just in case.

[KronicRacer]

tl_ke_racer
you're still gonna need the glow plug wrench, get one if you dont have it. *doesnt hurt to have the extra fuel lines

Mpower_15
if you like hop ups this is the car to get. its a good lil car not the best but good. first thing to get for this car are the graphite upper deck and threaded aluminum or threaded composite shocks
ont fprget that there are pinon gears available for the cars 2 speed purple yellow and red. of which the stock .15 should have no problem handling any of thos gears(unlike the 12rss equipped in the type ss) also look for teh non primered racing tank off of the old racer 2

and when youre ready for power go for the hpi racing black header combined with paris racing/ofna ripple pipe, fantom steel werks pipe (single chamber for top speed) (dual for technical short tracks) or the ths dual chambered one piece unit.

*also the stock ball caps are crap. make sure to find rpm ballcaps and hpi titanium turnbuckle set.

and also .15 may be a bigger engine but .12s are making more power at the moment so who ever looks into getting a new motor later on check out the orion wasp, hpi 12r xs, fantom fr12 and fr12 03 .

[tl_ke_racer]

yeah gots me a wrench too already, im still debating on what car to get pretty sure a rs4 3 ss, wuz also considering a ntc3 rtr, or the nitor 4-tec, was thinking about a duratrax street force but they seem fragile, umm do u think me goin towards gettin a ss iis a good idea or is teh ntc3 rtr or nitro 4-tec a better choice, if i got a ss it would be my first kit.

[KronicRacer]

i would go ntc3 rtr. the type ss is not a bad selection either, but.....the only hop ups you need for the ntc3 are 2 speed, shocks, cvds and the fix. it kicks ass out of the box. i heard around the 40-45 mph range with the single speed. you can do 60+mph (confirmed many times) with the right motor and gearing selection. also its an easier car to sell later on too. lets say this. you dump over 700 into you nitro three in hop ups. try moving it on ebay when its not the holiday season very difficult to get the price you want for it same thing goes for the nitro 4 tec. you definatly have much better chances of trading or selling a ntc3 (if and when you want too) than you do the other ones and its more race/drag worthy.

[KronicRacer]

60mph+ with the 2 speed:o

[number76]

ok guys crunch time, should I get the ths pipe set, or I know a guy with the race legal rd logics pipe setups for sale, for $40!!! what do you all think???or should I just order direct either a out law or outlaw turbo, or hell even a regular turbo...:( dont know what I should do...:(lmk asap ok
thanks so much

[microrcdude]

go with the legal pipe.

[number76]

appreciate the quick response, you mind telling me the differences??? also the turbo etc?
thanks again
Ryan P
also will this sound and perform WAY better than the stock pipe???:)

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Kronic,

Are you sayin that the .12 engine is better horsepower/speed-wise or weight-wise? I wouldn't mind the added weight at all if I was putting in a .18

All I want to know is if my clutch/2 spd clutchbell will fit properly onto HPI's .18 It said on their site "and in some of our touring cars", so I imagine that if I did need to modify anything it wouldn't be a big deal, otherwise they would say don't put it in touring cars....

Basically what it boils down to is that I want the biggest/fastest engine I can cram into the RS4-3, and I figured I would just stick with HPI, call me a bit of a speed freak, but I can't help what I am :D

And yet, I run into another problem :rolleyes: I need a new tuned-pipe, I had a Dynamite one (anodized blue) but I need to replace it, what is a cheap, reliable-yet very-cool-sounding pipe that would save me a lotta money?????¿¿¿¿¿

[number76]

I ordered a RD Logics pipe and header set, for $40 shipped...:) and it's MADE for this model...:)what a deal... wish me luck... also got in my venom racing fail safe, which I need to install... also should I invest in their other items for my car??? like the temp gauge, the system checker, and the speedometer???is that just way to much crap??? I am thinking stick with this for now...
now I am off to go buy some after run oil and nitro cleaner...:eek:

[number76]

here it is:

[number76]

here it is:

[number76]

here it is:

[number76]

weird...it tripled... sorry about that... well that's the pipe anyway:)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever
Kronic,

Are you sayin that the .12 engine is better horsepower/speed-wise or weight-wise? I wouldn't mind the added weight at all if I was putting in a .18

All I want to know is if my clutch/2 spd clutchbell will fit properly onto HPI's .18 It said on their site "and in some of our touring cars", so I imagine that if I did need to modify anything it wouldn't be a big deal, otherwise they would say don't put it in touring cars....

Basically what it boils down to is that I want the biggest/fastest engine I can cram into the RS4-3, and I figured I would just stick with HPI, call me a bit of a speed freak, but I can't help what I am :D

And yet, I run into another problem :rolleyes: I need a new tuned-pipe, I had a Dynamite one (anodized blue) but I need to replace it, what is a cheap, reliable-yet very-cool-sounding pipe that would save me a lotta money?????¿¿¿¿¿


the motor atsushi hara ran on the r 40 (for the championship he just won) has 1.5 hp Nova Rossi NS3 Race engine. it runs for the same price that hpi .18 is and its track legal too where as the .18 is not. you should look at www.wolfpackradicals.com for the adjustable motor mounts. you may end up needing those mounts if you got the .18 route. as for a cheap good pipe get the paris racing /or ofna ripple pipe remember single chamber is best for top speed.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by number76
I ordered a RD Logics pipe and header set, for $40 shipped...:) and it's MADE for this model...:)what a deal... wish me luck... also got in my venom racing fail safe, which I need to install... also should I invest in their other items for my car??? like the temp gauge, the system checker, and the speedometer???is that just way to much crap??? I am thinking stick with this for now...
now I am off to go buy some after run oil and nitro cleaner...:eek:

get the venom temp gauge, it records the highest heat spike on the run. good way to know if youve leaned out the motor too much. that and an assortment of os max or odonnel glow plugs.

ive been meaning to get the venom failsafe esp since one of teh models has the low voltage feature. something my other failsafes dont have.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey, I was looking on www.wolfpackradicals.com , and I noticed that they had a .21 conversion for "all HPI cars and trucks", so I looked at the picture and I noticed that in the picture it seemed to show it on an R40 chassis, since the engine is facing to the side. So I was curious, will their .21 conversion work on an RS4-3? If so, I will forget about a .18 and stick in a .21 :D :D :D .

If this one does not work, is there another company that has a .21 conversion kit for my car? If I do get a conversion kit, I plan on strengthening the drivetrain to handle the power, what what exactly will I need to get? I already have a front one-way HD differential, although I don't think that matters....

or am I just a nut for wanting to do this, and should I just buy the Schumacher Fusion to get a 65+ mph car? Hey, that thing is pretty cool, with that 3 speed tranny.....

[number76]

I got it and I am VERY happy with it...:) ok I will look at the temp as well... also I have a bunch of os #8 plugs, as I was told they are the best...:)
thanks

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever
Hey, I was looking on www.wolfpackradicals.com , and I noticed that they had a .21 conversion for "all HPI cars and trucks", so I looked at the picture and I noticed that in the picture it seemed to show it on an R40 chassis, since the engine is facing to the side. So I was curious, will their .21 conversion work on an RS4-3? If so, I will forget about a .18 and stick in a .21 :D :D :D .

If this one does not work, is there another company that has a .21 conversion kit for my car? If I do get a conversion kit, I plan on strengthening the drivetrain to handle the power, what what exactly will I need to get? I already have a front one-way HD differential, although I don't think that matters....

or am I just a nut for wanting to do this, and should I just buy the Schumacher Fusion to get a 65+ mph car? Hey, that thing is pretty cool, with that 3 speed tranny.....

iF speed is your thing you should look at the shume you wont be disapointed. that car will fit the big block .21-.26. and is designed for it http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I was kinda jokin' about gettin the Fusion, cuz that thing is expensive (close to $400, I think), and I have my RS4-3 set up how I like it and all.

Are there any other touring sedans besides the Fusion that have a .21 or bigger that I could look into?????????

[KronicRacer]

depends on your definition of touring ... then there was 8th scale and the hpi super nitro's. the thing about the .21 is that if you ever decide to go to a track you more than likely would get banned. dont wast your money on the nitro 3 if you want top speed.
putting in a .21 into a car thats not designed for it is a waste to be honest. (its like dropping a 429 cobra jet 500hp motor into a stock v6 mustang chassis. youre gonna have dumped so much money into it you couldve gotten the latest cobra.) it just wont work with out alot of money going into it first. when the dust settles youll see you dumped enuff money into the hpi that you couldve gotten that shumacher, trust me. that or you have a really good chance of going really fast with the hpi super nitro. that car can take a .21 in a blink of an eye. that's the chassis featured in the wolfpack website. (not the r40 fyi):D if not the shume check out the hpi super nitro.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

There is no way that I could afford a 1/8th scale car. The kit alone is waaaaay too much, plus you gotta provide engine, electronics, and a body. Also, I would'nt be able to afford a Super Nitro then buy the engine and everything for it.

I just wanted to know if that conversion kit on the site is just motor mounts and a different clutch or what and if it would fit the RS4-3...right now I can't afford all the stuff I need, but it would give me something to try for...and I don't plan on competitive racing with my car at the track. I don't think they would ban me just for having a big engine in my car when I don't even race.


I guess I will just look into a .18 if its going to be this much trouble....don't tell me that would be a waste either :(

About the aluminum bulkheads....I think the ones from HotBodies...do those fit on my car? From the looks of it, they were made for belt-driven cars, since they don't appear to be sealed up, unless I need to take a closer look....

[KronicRacer]

the .18 wouldnt be a waste. its better than stuffing a .21 into the poor car. also the aluminum bulk head would fit . just take a look at the pics ive posted of my car. ive got all the option parts that hot bodies has, and then some, and they all fit.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

the .18 wouldnt be a waste. its better than stuffing a .21 into the poor car

lol, i just like the way it sounded.....poor car....

i tried what you (at least, i think you) said about changin the glow plug and adding after-run oil into the FR15, and the compression did come up, but today i have to go get a pressure fitting.....its mounted funky on my pipe, instead of on top where it's easy to reach, its on the other side, crammed right next to the handle bar.....and the threading on the pipe is screwed up, so what can i get, like a sealant, to secure the fitting better? it will stay on the pipe, but it easily wiggles out...

tell me where i can find a pic of your car, Kronic, i love how RS4-3's look with lotsa purple aluminum and graphite.

[rico750sxi]

Sometimes if you take a piece of fuel tubing only a few mm wide and use it as sort of a clamp it helps. If you understnad what I mean.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

sorry, but I don't know what you mean, I thought of just sliding the fuel tubing into where the pressure fitting goes, since it would stay securely, but I figured with all the heat and waste inside the pipe that the fuel tubing would actually burn up, and possible it might damage my fuel tank somehow...

if it ok to do this, lemme know so I can run my car today!!! it's been about a month since i ran it from all the snow and stuff....

[Turbo Tin Can]

I'm thinking of buying one of these from a freind for very cheap with all kinds of spare parts. I want to beat it in the gravel and snow tho, should i just buy a super nitro rally or change over the rs4 SS?

thoughts?

[number76]

I just got my rdlogics pipe, and I can't wait to install it...:) I am so excited, and it looks awesome!!! hey I am curious on the wire mount that came with it, I know to screw the eye to the chassis, but do you bend the wire and where etc??? anyone with pics to help me out?
thanks so much
Ryan P

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

YES! Yesterday I got my car running after months of snow.

I had changed over to the red pinion gears (dunno the teeth) and this thing is uber-fast. It has such a higher top speed now that the tranny shifts less than halfway through the RPM's. It's pretty great, just thought I would share my joy with you guys :rolleyes:

And I found a solution to my pipe problem, instead of using a bunch of glue and crap to hold on my pressure fitting, i took 2 zip-ties around the pipe and turn the fitting so that the zip-ties don't slide off of it....it holds hella good.

[rico750sxi]

Okay, I need help with my Fantom. It stalls everytime it goes to shift into second gear. I've returned the jetting to facory specs and started from there but it's still doing it. It doesn't do it if I hold the car in the air and rev it up. But while driving it will not run once it shifts. It has me confused. It's about 40*F outside today. I've played with jetting but which way should I go? Thanks.

[KronicRacer]

40 degs.???? what plug are you running? the motor is getting too cold to hold the spark in the glowplug when its on the go. in other words you need a hotter plug. it doesnt stall when you hold it because theres no buku air movement to cool off the heat sink. running it in 40 deg weather is though so another part of the equation to get it running is to make the windsheild vent smaller so there is more heat and less airflow(since the air is to cold). the blast of 35mph 40deg air is very cold and cools off the motor quick. i say an inch or so in diameter for the windsheild opening. worst case scenario block the windsheild completely. the motor will still suck up enuff air.
http://www.osengines.com/accys/glowplugs.html *edit
http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[rico750sxi]

I never thought of that Kronic, that's a good point. Thanks for the help. But let me tell you more. This is like the third weekend in a row I've run when it's been cold like this. The first weekend it ran great, shifted good, everything was fine. The second weekend I mostly ran my S-Maxx but at the end of the day I tried to get one run in with my Fantom engined car. It ran good for a half of a tank and then it started acting like this. It dies at the same exact point each time, right when it shifts into second. The plug I run is an OS #8 usually although I have tried a brand new Fantom plug with the same results. Car seems to run fine at 1/2 -3/4 throttle. And when I go full throttle it accelerates strong but then when it shifts to second--buhh....stall. Everytime!! I will try blocking the air from the head and see what that does. It will be a few days though, we just got a bunch of ice and snow here.
Oh the reason I've been running it is I got a Venom Speed Meter. I was running it to get it running good for when I had the meter. Well it came on Sat. and it's all installed. It's a neat little unit, has an odometer and voltmeter too. And the car is doing 30 mph at the shift when it dies.

[KronicRacer]

the #8 plug cant hold the heat its too cold. it seems that 30 mph @40 deg F seems to be the cool off point for the plug. remember # 8 run cool so they can be leaned a more than the other plugs normally those are for hot weather and normal conditions(non cold). try sticking you hand out the window of the car going 30mph its hella cold in 40 deg weather now imagine the aluminum heat sink getting blasted with with that cold air, its gonna get really cold . in this case you need heat. a smaller heat sink for your motor would also be helpful. one more thing before i pass out..... remember that the plug will get fouled quicker under cold conditions if the plug itself is not hot enoughf.

so three things you could definatley try.
1 blocking the windshield to restrict the cold airflow
2 hotter glow plug. os max a3 (fantom plugs are ok, O.S is better ;))
3 smaller/shorter heat sink. (hpi has one on their web site thats spefically for cold weather and so do other companies.)http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif

[number76]

I have some after-run oil coming from www.slickzero.com any one actually used this stuff??? it has teflon added to enhance motor life... what do you all think???
thanks, I had thought about getting the Trinity stuff, but after adding in shipping for ONE item, it's just not worth it, and maybe I will get some later once I get a order from TOWER...
thanks so much

[rico750sxi]

Kronic, I was running my car in my basement. I know it's not the best test area but I wanted some warmer conditions. Teh only way I could get it to shift was doing doughnuts on the slippery concrete. Well, the same thing would happen. Shiftinto second and stall. I know it's a sh**y way to test but I wanted to see if it was the cold weather. Another thing, when I was running it outside the temp of the car was always pretty good, 240-260*F. I thing I;m going to swap my 2 speed out with the one in my other RS4-3 and see what happens. Again, thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted.

[number76]

so anyone got any ideas on my oil purchase?
thanks much
Ryan

[KronicRacer]

sound like pacer afterrun oil to me. only difference it has teflon. i would give it a try on my 15 ss just to test it out, if i ever picked up a bottle.

[number76]

Bret is a cool guy that owns slickzero.com, and I have decided to make them my lubricant guys... will let you all know how it works out...I figured the teflon additive couldn't hurt...:D

[Turbo Tin Can]

Has anyone noticed how expenive bearings are for these things? Do we have alternatives, i drive mine in the snow lol.

[KronicRacer]

stick with the same fuel that you broke the motor in with.
it has to do with the different additives and lubricants all the companies. it makes for inconsistant tuning results

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

While on the subject of fuel and lubricants, would it be safe to go from 20% nitro up to 25% nitro but stickin with the same brand? Or does the same percent have to be used as to what you used for break-in? Just curious, I wanted to try a fuel with a higher nitro percent...................

and something I discovered, about after-run oil. I have some red stuff (not sure which company) and I accidently dripped it on some of the black carbon-plastic-whatever-its-made-of parts, like the shock towers and the reciever protector, so I wiped it with a paper towel, and it did an awesome job of cleanin and gave it a little shine to it, something to try out if your takin pictures or diplayin your car, it worked really well for me.

[hilbren]

[i]and something I discovered, about after-run oil. I have some red stuff (not sure which company) and I accidently dripped it on some of the black carbon-plastic-whatever-its-made-of parts, like the shock towers and the reciever protector, so I wiped it with a paper towel, and it did an awesome job of cleanin and gave it a little shine to it, something to try out if your takin pictures or diplayin your car, it worked really well for me. [/B]

the good cleaning come's from the ethanol en the sine from the oil

[number76]

anybody using the hgi aluminum wheels on thier evo yet??? any pics???reviews etc?
thanks

[Mpower_15]

number76

the only reason you should cosider using aluminum wheels is to give your car show room quality looks, if thats all you wanna do is make it look good then alum is the best way to go, but if you wanna race bash around etc. you shouldnt even consider aluminum wheels because they are usually hevier harder to get up to top speed and to slow down as well as easy to dent or bend especially from those darned curbs, yet one more reason they r more expensive. So if your going for looks theryre great! but going for a quick run, bash around etc. stay away from aluminum wheels. :)

[Mpower_15]

hey anybody out there have any good ideas for a new pipe for my evo its winter in Canada and snow is on the ground so i need sumthin to do so i thought what better to do then upgrade my car, once again any good tuned pipes out there for the evo 3
:confused:

[number76]

go with a RDLogics or a ths... they are the ones to get...:)

[Turbo Tin Can]

So many motors argh! Which nitro should i get to make lotsa torque, im not really concerned with top speed. I switched to a slipper clutch so im guessing 40mph should be lots on one gear. Picco, os, god so many

[KronicRacer]

if you want torque go for a .15 motor.

[number76]

so why is this forum so slow... I want to talk about my evo, and this should be the perfect forum... also pics of your workshps, and evos etc ok

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

if you wanna talk about it, talk! someone will respond...eventually:p

i get on once or twice a day myself, and i say a lot when i do get on

so, ramble on! questions, complaints, concerns, compliments, anything

[number76]

fair enough... I wish there was an actual chat for nitro where people are... I have visited a few but noone is ever in them, and hpi's forums are a joke...

[KronicRacer]

aint that the truth HPI actually had a kickass forum a year ago. so many people where posting the servers would crash every so often i guess they got sick and tired of it. anyways a few of the hpi refugees from that forum came over here(including myself). and they got interested in the ntc3 serpents mugens r40 etc etc etc. also its the winter season for most of the guys so they have nothing to post about the car.

anyways i was talking to rcnitrodude999 and he filled me in on the new drive shaft kyosho. it was pretty funny becuase it looks like the nitro 3. the differences are that the shafts are thicker and it has a wish bone/ a arm suspension set up. (something ive been kicking and screaming about that this ca needs) gearing may be a bit different too. down side to it msrp is 379.00. that and their replacement parts are very pricy. well the point of this is that there may be a conversion to an a arm/wishbone suspension on the horizon for the nitro 3. this may provide a bigger suspension range if the conversion is possible, which in turn may cure all the high speed instabilities in the car.. not only that but may make the car look more cool.

link to the kyosho for visiuals. http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/product.php?productid=18858&cat=389&page=1

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

hey guys,

my local track is in Joyce Park right north or so of Cincinnati, owned by TSARA or something like that :confused: :confused:

It is a huge track, and they race 1/8,1/10, and I think they ran 1/5 there too, so it is very big for 1/10....that said, what shock oil should i run in front & rear? My steering is decent but it seems the shocks aren't workin to full potential, also, for the smaller tighter turns, what strength of swaybar do you recommend? and should I run a bar in the front? I'm takin off my aluminum arms so i can use the swaybars, if anyone is interested in them lemme know via email: mercury_topaz427@yahoo.com

its just a set of 4 purple aluminum arms, perfect condition, they have been ran for about maybe 5 minutes? so they virtually haven't been used.....

and can someone gimme a cost on threaded shock bodies? hehe, i'll trade ya the arms for some :p

[number76]

I was considering getting a carbon upper deck for my evo... and I now see the hot bodies deck DOES NOT work with the removable radio tray that is on my car???:( now that sucks... so will the hpi one work??? and which carbon towers front and rear are better??? hpi???or hot bodies??? thanks in advance...
thanks
Ryan P

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

all of my carbon pieces (i assume your talkin about the long, flat shiny thing) are from HPI. If you do get it, prepare to do a lot of wrenching, and you will also need a 5-cell 1/8th battery pack since the 4-cell thing doesn't fit, also pick up some double-sided servo tape to strap your reciever down.....i also stuck with HPI front and rear carbon towers.....I think HotBodies also makes aluminum towers in silver or purple if you just want them for looks.....if you aren't talkin about what I think you are then just ignore me, im not sure what all those carbon pieces are called, i've heard carbon, graphite, woven graphite, carbon fiber......

btw, if you get the carbon upper deck you will no longer have a "removable" tray, but cleaning will still be easier since everything is more exposed....

[KronicRacer]

number76
yea you lose the convinence of the removeable tray but, the purpose of the carbon deck to add overall stiffness to the chassis. the stock radio tray doesnt do that. if you go with hpi or hb, it doesnt matter. the only difference is how the carbon was cut and the price. bottom line is that if you want to improve the chassis, get rid of the stock radio tray.


HPI-Fan-4-Ever

this is a very informative article dont worry about shocks yet** try foams out if you havent done so. (**shock sets by hpi run for 60-70, if you pay more than that youre getting ripped off)


http://www.nitrorc.com/articles/foamtires/default.asp

http://www.nitrorc.com/articles/tires/tirepart1.html#chassis%20setup

[number76]

cool...thanks all for the advice... so will I have to move the servos? or will they be ok...
thanks again

[KronicRacer]

same location. hb upper deck

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

KronicRacer

HPI's upper deck requires a 5-cell FLAT pack and it looks like yours is a hump style 3-over-2 pack....plus with HPI's you mount the reciever directly above the packs too......so wouldn't HPI's provide a lower CG since all the cells sit lower? Just wondering, if your not worried about that kinda stuff number76 then ignore this.....i just thought i would point this out....anyway....

i was runnin my car sunday...and after the run it seemed my clutch was stuck, like a shoe was stuck to the bell even though the engine wasn't running, when i pulled on the cord it turn the clutch bell and thus moved the wheels, and normally the clutchbell is suppose to freely spin and this allows you to push the car backwards with no resistance but mine won't budge for nothin....anyclue what might be wrong before i have to disassemble the clutch again for the 3rd time? i imagine a clutch spring broke, if this is the case, i will save up for a centax clutch, are those easy to maintain and tune?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

oh, and before i forget, Kronic, is that HPI's racing fuel tank? If so, do you push the fuel line down into the tank instead of attaching it at the bottom? with the 2 speed gearing and clutch bells the fuel line is only a few mm's from the gearing.....and i certainly wouldn't want the 2 to collide....

and your blue ballcups look the exact same as the Team Losi ballcups that I have on my B4 Buggy! Are they? LOL

[rico750sxi]

Okay, I'm reaching here but I can't find an answer.

I need the spring for the throttle servo saver, It's part number A396b, 14mm servo saver spring. I can't find it, I don't think it comes with the A396 servo saver parts but I don't know what it does come with. Can anyone help? I posted the subject on the HPI forum but I'm not expecting any results from that. Any help would be appreciated.

[jjl]

do you guys find that the two header screws (the long screws that connect the header to the engine) come loose? that was a problem with my old rs4.

[KronicRacer]

HPI-Fan-4-Ever:

yea its the racing tank and it mounts from the middle look at the orange fuel line its far away from the spur and pinions. and those are blue rpm ball caps no losi parts here.

if you really wanna lower some of the cg in this car install z543 into the lower arms then you can adjust ride height to about 4-5 mm.
battery location depends, hotbodies calls for the humppack hpi says flat pack. its all a matter of choice. the receiver is supposed to be either in the original location or right of the steering servo under the upper deckchassis. the problem with that is, that the guys that used crystal receievers had the crystals falling out, lead to many crashes. think about this the highest point in the car is the heat sink, next is the fuel tank followed by the center bulkhead. then shock towers, and servos. battery is lower than all of them flat or hump.

centax is not easy to maintain need digital calipers and lots of black grease and is maily for big tracks. get the racing clutch if you get a clutch. also check the mesh of the spur and pinion gears. if you cant stick a piece of notebook paper between the gears and roll it,its too tight. move the motor away until you get a proper mesh. then you should be able to roll backwards. cant be too close, cant bee to far.

rico:
i think i may have i spare dont need if youre interested. (need to rummage through parts)

jjl :
depending how long the screws are on the motor you have get small locking washers and nuts w/loctite that stopped my header from coming loose.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

KronicRacer,

Well, my track is HUGE, its where they held 1/5th champs i believe, and the main straight is over 200 feet long....and the gear mesh couldn't have messed up cuz i was just doing passes up and down the street....and it rolls forward and everything, and like i said if you pull on the pullcord instead of just turnin over the piston and shaft it turns the clutch bell too....i dunno what's up with it, i'll need to reassemble it i suppose.......

and what is z543? a type of oil or spring or what?

and jjl....about those header screws, if its the ones that go through the sides of the engine into the pipe/manifold then i have a solution....buy longer screws, about a centimeter longer if they fit, and find a nut for each that screws on securely, right before you tighten the nuts all the way put threadlock on it so that it sticks...let it dry..mine haven't come out yet.........

Edit: woops didn't see Kronic answered your question...doh!

[rico750sxi]

Kronic, I am definitely interested, email me please, rico750sxi@hotmail.com
If you have a paypal account I can pay you that way or send you a money order.
Thanks a lot, that would be big. I've ebnn thinking about putting in the Epic .18 w/rotary carb so I need the spring again.
Also, how did you get the extra, do you know a place that has them??

Again,
thanks a bunch.

jjl,
I bought some longer screws and put lock washers and nylon locking nuts on them with threadlock. No problems since.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever
KronicRacer,

and what is z543? a type of oil or spring or what?

200ft straight nice. the part number i gave you was for screws that go into the h-arms. ill get the hb parts number for the clutch(atached pic). rico found the part pm me the address to send to no worries about payment. i have 3 nitro 3's 1ones for parts ;)

[Turbo Tin Can]

Has anyone figured out how to use diff oil's in the rs4 3 SS? Won't it just come out the sides since it isnt sealed? Like the metal on metal part, you can put bushings or orange donuts on the axles, but what about where the actual diff sits?

[rico750sxi]

KronicRacer,
Thanks again!!
Also, does anyone make a 3 shoe flywheel/clutch that can be used for our cars?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Turbo Tin Can
Has anyone figured out how to use diff oil's in the rs4 3 SS? Won't it just come out the sides since it isnt sealed? Like the metal on metal part, you can put bushings or orange donuts on the axles, but what about where the actual diff sits?

at this point youre better off using the nitro mt ball diff and the front one way. there is no way to get a really good seal. this is one of the problems i have with my r40. the r40 is designed for diff oil but it just doesnt hold. :mad:thats why im going with the front one way for this car too. now imagine the nitro 3 what a mess that would be:eek:

rico:

i think yokomo or associated have a three shoe flywheel. heck i think even wolfpack has one.

[rico750sxi]

Thanks for the info KronicRacer. AS always

[Turbo Tin Can]

Kronic would this work for offroad? My car is now fully converted rally destroyer. So the stock front diff is a one way?

[KronicRacer]

it would work as a rally car this car is based off the nitro mt. there is no front oneway installed stock.:)

[Kenny T]

After a 4/5 months wait (can't remeber now, been too long) I got my heavily modded RS4 3 SS. Pics coming soon. :)

[rico750sxi]

KronicRacer,
Do you remember my problem I was having a couple weeks ago with my car stalling just as it was shifting into second gear? Could my gas tank primer leaking cause that type of problem? And how do I remove the darn thing? I think it's starting to leak pretty bad. Thanks

[KronicRacer]

ooo that i have not encountered. ive stuck to the racing tank since day one.

ive got pics to post i did a lil bit of shifting around on the battery and receiver.

[KronicRacer]

...

[KronicRacer]

last one

[Kenny T]

I can't do that, my rs4 3 has the HPI upper deck. I'm very happy with my car. :) I think I'm going to put the R40 aside while I play around with the RS4 3. :D

[KronicRacer]

yea i gotta do the same my r40's front diff started to leak. so until i can find new gaskets or front one-way the r40 is on the sideline.:(. post your pics KT, im gettin tired of being the only one posting pics ;):D

[BLAK_FOX]

I want to upgrade the chassis of my rs4 ss. Which chassis is better the gpm, the golden horizons or the hpi super chassis?

[Kenny T]

Kronic, I've got the pics, I've just gotta reduce their quaility/size down to 66kb. I'll have them up tomorrow. maybe even later today.

BLAK_FOX, I've got the GPM 4mm chassis I think (Can't remeber specs any more) and it's held up fine.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by BLAK_FOX
I want to upgrade the chassis of my rs4 ss. Which chassis is better the gpm, the golden horizons or the hpi super chassis?

well my vote goes toward the gpm and also the hpi superchasis. the hpi is 7075 aircraft aluminum and is 3.5 mm thick beveled to avoid bottoming out. not there is also a chassis available from hot bodies and that one is 4mm thick and 7075 aircraft aluminum.
stick with gpm, hpi, or hotbodies.

[Kenny T]

My RS4 3 SS. Has CVD's all round, turnbuckles, swaybars, threaded shocks, GPM chassis, racer fuel tank, motor saver airfilter, OS 15 CV-RX(slide carb), HPI Carbon Fibre upper deck and Carbon fibre front shock tower. I think that's all the hop ups. :D

[Kenny T]

Has anyone had the e-clip that holds the bevel gear on to the outdrive fall off and get jammed between the bevel and crown?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

KronicRacer,

Where did you get the purple tranny & brake mount? I've never seen one before, and I definetly could use it...

[BLAK_FOX]

Origynally posted by KronicRacer
well my vote goes toward the gpm and also the hpi super chasis. the hpi is 7075 aircraft aluminum and is 3.5 mm thick beveled to avoid bottoming out. not there is also a chassis available from hot bodies and that one is 4mm thick and 7075 aircraft aluminum.

Where I can see a picture of the hot bodies chassis?

[Kenny T]

HPI-Fan, wolfpack makes one and I'm pretty sure GPM and hot bodies make one as well.

www.wolfpackradicals.com I think that's the site.

[fastharry]

heres mine

[fastharry]

nice,right?

[rico750sxi]

Kronic, got my spring today, thanks again. :)

[KronicRacer]

thanks for the update rico

BLAK_FOX
pic of the 4mm hb race chassis
http://www.meganitro.com/hb%20rs4/w_hb61121_01.jpg

[KronicRacer]

hello harry
long time no see around this part of the forum . :)

[Tim'sLosi]

Check out this (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=pehhgnfqbvjwbcelmvfgrwaumksioy qi&part_id=583) one from New Era. 3.1 mm 7075 T6. TT


http://www.neweramodels.com/jpeg/G/GH02011.jpg

Originally posted by BLAK_FOX
I want to upgrade the chassis of my rs4 ss. Which chassis is better the gpm, the golden horizons or the hpi super chassis?

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Rs4 3 Evo?
Hey all,..

i'm considering sellin up my duratrax overdrive st and going on road, im just wondering which car 2 get!! its so complicated with the amount of cars around right now..

im trying to choose between..

traxxas nitro 4tec 2.5
hpi rs4 3 evo
cen ct4s

all rtr 1/10 scale on roaders, im leaning more towards the traxxas and hpi, i will not be racing, just bashing at local car parks and runnin with a few friends,

any suggestions would b grateful, and good/bad points on the evo

thnx

N~F

[Tim'sLosi]

I have both the 4tec 2.5 and the rs4 3 ss(just bought). I am going to sell the 4tec because, in my opinion, it is "overengineered". I would hate to do front end damage to the car and have to disassemble it for repair...the chassis is packed. I feel more comfortable with the rs4 having owned a Nitro MT. It will be nice to remove the radio equipment with two body clips to clean the car. It's shaft drive is not suceptible to pebbles like the 4tec's belts are. There are many more things I could say but I think that is enough to make my point and I'm beat from work:o

Good lluck,
Tim

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

thnx for your help,..

thats what i was thinkin when i saw the 4-tec chassis, it looked so complicated, and i think the shaft drive will work out better since im not racing, im gonna go for the evo,

thnx again

N~F

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

another thing to consider is that even though the 4Tec can go 60 or so mph chances are you won't be goin that fast all the time, since going that speed eats up a lotta parkin lot, and if you get that speed-needy you can always stick a .18 engine into the RS4 Evo....

also, the RS4 Evo has so many stinkin hop-ups and accesories it ain't funny....seriously, take a part of the car off and there is probably the same part in either purple aluminum or carbon, a-arms, bulkheads, upperdeck, tranny mount, shock towers, bumper brace, brake levers, steering arms and linkages.....all those are availlable in attractive looking purple aluminum or race-necessary woven carbon, whatever it's called...

go with HPI, trust me you won't be dissapointed, its fun, fast, easy to care for, and parking-lot proof....what more could you want??????? just ask Kronic, I think he said he owns three of em...

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

thnx for ur input hpi fan, very appreciated,

i've already forgotten the traxxas;)

N~F

[the-one1]

Anyone ever thought about just buying the hop up parts and building a car from that? That way you dont have to spend money on the car it self and you save 200-300 just for the price of the stock car.
I've been looking around, and i noticed on the highly hopped up rs4s that there is hardly any stock pieces on it anymore, everything is changed from the engine to the radio. It would make more sense to just build from the hop up parts in the first place. Just a thought.

[Scott S]

Originally posted by the-one1
Anyone ever thought about just buying the hop up parts and building a car from that? That way you dont have to spend money on the car it self and you save 200-300 just for the price of the stock car.
I've been looking around, and i noticed on the highly hopped up rs4s that there is hardly any stock pieces on it anymore, everything is changed from the engine to the radio. It would make more sense to just build from the hop up parts in the first place. Just a thought.

It's been done before with traxxas maxx cars, so I don't see why not. You'll just need to buy every little part and screw that you can't buy as an upgrade. It could get pretty pricey since parts always cost more when they are sold individually rather then with the car. Try it and tell us the results! hehe..

By the way, this is my first post on the board and hopefully not the last :) Nice place ya got here guys!

[Kenny T]

Welcome aboard. :)

[the-one1]

I mean you can save by not spending money on the original stock plastic pieces ($200-300). I know the parts are expensive, but if you add the parts to the price of the stock car, it would cost more.

[rico750sxi]

I kind of did a similar thing, I built a second car from the parts I took off my car and finished it with parts off of ebay.

[KronicRacer]

i did the ground up project.
hb carbon upperdeck 45.00 hb =hot bodies
hpi superchassis 60.00
hb bulkhead 50.00
hb knuckles 10.00
hb c hub15.00
jet racing steering knuckles 12.00
fantom fr12 03 150.00
jr reciver 70.00 (jr xs3 200.00)
hb centax clutch 55.00
wpr 2speed 60.00 wpr wolfpack radicals
hpi nitro mt ball diff 45.00
hpi front oneway 45.00
hb cvds 20.00.00 front 20.00 rear
hb center shaft (front) 9.00
hb center shaft (rear) 9.00
hpi stock bearings 30.00
hb front shock tower 8.00
hb rear shock tower 13.00
hpi aluminum adjustable shocks (4) 60.00
rpm ballends 8.00
lundsford turnbuckles 24.00
servo 40.00 hitec high torque steering
servo 10.00 stock hpi throttle
hpi plastic bulkhead spacer 0.50
hb dual disc stainless steel brake 30
hbbrake lever 5.00
hpi foam bumper 8.00
hb carbon bumper brace 15.00
hpi body posts 5.00
associated body posts for rear 5.00
mpi failsafe 36.00
battery pack ni-mh1300mah 15.00
racer tank 15.00
ace racing outlaw pipe 36.00
hpi/ae springs 20.00
hpi swaybars 20.00
hb steering rack 20.00
hpi lower plastic h arms 5.00pair
hpi lower plastic harms rear 5.00 pair
diff cases 8.00 each
on off futaba switch 10.00
mip temp guage 30.00
motorsaver air filter 20.00
k&n airfilter 24.00 (for show)
foam tires 30-40
hanger 9 fuel filter 10.00
hpi ball ends 10.00 (ebay)
ae starter box 75.00
u guys do the math my head hurts from thinking about this:D



didnt have to get that many screws hb parts came with them. there was also a misc. 30.00 for tape, screws, zip ties, blah, blah, blah.....


pardon my faux paux if i missed a part or two:D :D

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

wow, Kronic, quite a list....however, if you are short on screws or want lots of extras check out R/C Screwz's auctions on eBay, or you can try and find the site, I'm not sure what it is, I will post it later once I find it....you get the little allen wrenches needed, attractice chrome-titanium screws, and more nuts, fasteners, washers, and extra screws that you could ever want....in fact, I was able to do my RS4-3, a B4 and most of an RS4 MT with all the screws that one of em came with.......and they are cheap too..

careful tryin to use em on another car model, some of the screws' threading doesn't match where the screws go in, so it may be a pain to put them in.....just my .02 btw....and welcome to our humble RS4-3 community, Scott S!!!!

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

by the way, your list totals to roughly $1330.50........i tallied up everything one time and that's what it came to...just thought i'd help ya out ;)

[Tim'sLosi]

Is the Centax clutch a direct fit for the 12r SS engine? Or does it only work on a certain shaft type? Nice list...
Thx,
TT

[KronicRacer]

centax fits any motor equipped with an sg shaft cannot fit the threaded cranks at this moment.

also i think racers edge has a screw kit for the nitro 3 only it doesnt come with the allen screws.

the one that i knew that came with screws and allens was from benderstore.com . or it there another thats come out with that?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

i got my screw set off of eBay, and the seller was R/C Screwz.....i couldn't find a Nitro 3 set at the time so I bought the R40 set and it worked just fine...kinda a gamble I took but it was the same company car and a 1/10 sedan so i figured the screws would work....

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Here's a pic of my ride, hope it works, just got it figured out and everything...enjoy...

:Edit: forgot to re-attach, lemme try again :(

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

ok, hope this works.......

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Here's the chassis with the body on it...hope this one works as good as the last one :confused:

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever
by the way, your list totals to roughly $1330.50........i tallied up everything one time and that's what it came to...just thought i'd help ya out ;)

He could have brought a serpent or mugen with a engine a far better car for that price? :eek:

[xkylar]

For me, how much you spend on a particular R/C car is a very personal thing. You can't tell me that I spent too much on something where as I could've bought something else. It's like watching a child grow with every hop-up that you put into it. You'll also feel an undeniable sense of pride that it's yours and no one else's. I'm just rumbling right now...

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

that much money will get you about any r/c in the market today, except maybe some 1/5 and 1/4th scales....but like xkylar says, you get a sense of pride with yours....mine is definitely unique because its my personal setup and i have a few custom mods to it of my own.....

of course, I wouldn't put THAT much money into one car, why not use that much money and buy 2 of em??????

[Scott S]

Thanks for the friendly welcome guys. I've been floating around these boards for some time as a guest and finally decided to register. Nice place ya got here! :)

[HPICasper]

i have a rs4 3 evo and i love it. I am going to be racin it soon and i was wondering what all i had to get. I already have a motorsaver airfilter and i am going to be getting a HPI racing clutch and a tuned pipe from RD Logics. What else do i need?? Or do i have most of the basics??

thanks HPICasper

[Scott S]

I don't think anyone can ever stress this enough.. when racing the only real hop-up you NEED is practice. Any true racer will agree. I would practice not only driving your car on a closed course, but make sure you can start your car in time for your race and keep it running for the beginning and the entire race. Many nitro races are lost because of a flameout (stalled engine) or a broken part, so make sure your car is up to the task of racing. I'd also suggest getting a new body painted with your own colors so you don't look like a total newbie showing up to the track with either a red viper or a silver bmw :cool: Goodluck racing man!

[HPICasper]

LOL thanks man. never thought of the body deal. kinda funny. looks like i will be buying a new body soon

[Tim'sLosi]

I have bought a few from him...really fast shipping!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=147843&perpage=&pagenumber=2

Balance of bodies !
here's what is left:

1 7440 Celica, 200mm
1 7408 F-150 Flareside, 200mm

$ 16.00 each, shipped to the lower 48



Originally posted by HPICasper
LOL thanks man. never thought of the body deal. kinda funny. looks like i will be buying a new body soon

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
He could have brought a serpent or mugen with a engine a far better car for that price? :eek:


well this is tru. thats why i also have an ntc3 and an r40. dont think that i spent all that money at once. all the parts are there for a reason and theres always room for improvement. i tried to stay away from parts that i knew wouldnt do much like an all aluminum chassis. in the end it all builds up if youre not carefull and this car has so many parts it easily becomes a money pit. like its been said; its all about preference and pride.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey, you guys know the Bronco Savage body and the little hood ornament that looks like an engine/carburetor that comes with it? Is it possible to order that separately....I'm thinkin of redoing a Camaro SS body and stickin that on there, kinda like a Pro Stock Drag Car....or can someone post a link to a pic of one unattached so I can see how it fastens to the shell? Thanks!

[rico750sxi]

I think Parma sells a Hemi engine kit that you can stick on a body to do the Pro Stock/street look.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I hope they do, I just found out that HPI doesn't sell just the blower thing by itself. I guess I could stick a Bronco body on my RS4 MT :rolleyes: ...hey, that would look pretty cool...