HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[Jetskiboy77]

Nice, a Novarossi. I may have to get me one of those one day in the future. Hopefully they're as good as I hear they are.

[josh222]

you can get a Novarossi MT12 for a 110bucks

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats a great price. When I went looking for a new .12 engine, the guy in the hobby shop tried to take advantage of me cause he thinks Im a stupid kid. Hes like this Novarossi is amazing its not too expensive, we highly reccomened it and its very fast. It was only 300$, as you could guess, I didnt but the engine. Got my HPI .12R XS instead, and am very happy with my 120$ dollar engine, that has plaenty of power for now.

[josh222]

lol, my lhs knows me :p i might get a Epic18 or that new fantom fr12 rear exhaust :)

[Jetskiboy77]

lol, My 2 local hobby shops know me know cause I walked in there with a .21 NMT. They gave me a lot more respect after that, but I still perfer to order parts offline because they always tried to screw me over in the beginning when I didnt know a lot and they still try to pull that once in a while. Now, if I go to get something from them, I tell them exactly what I want, and I dont wanna hear what they want to sell me. Thats why I like Tower, cause theres no one to tell you to buy this instead of that and no one to be annoying.

[josh222]

my lhs gives me killer deals :) on most stuff

[trw]

my lhs took advantage of me twice and over charges on everything.

told me a Superbrain 959 was a good charger and that 27 stockers were faster then 19 specs.

but its like when i got my nitro they looekd at me a whole different way.

[Kenny T]

Damn you Josh. I know one of the hobby shop guys knows me but he doesn't give me any deals but that could be because I haven't bought anything over $50 from them.

I should walk in there with the brushless converted NMT or the 100mph RS4 3(brushless again) when it's done and see what happens. :D

[josh222]

i have spent over 500bucks at my lhs, i am on of there good costumers :p

[Jetskiboy77]

Are you counting the price of your kit? I bought my RS4 3 in my hobby shop and my Ofna Hyper 8 Port for my NMT and also my futaba radio and my MX-3 radio there too. Thats well over 500$.

[josh222]

i bought my SS off tower, my big things where things like a starter box and mt convetion and stuff

[Jetskiboy77]

I also bought my starter box at my lhs so add about another 80$. They still try to mess with me tho. I try to order a lot of my stuff offline, especially cause Tower has just about everything.

[josh222]

thats cool

[Jetskiboy77]

lol, No its not, everytime I go to my LHS I have to be readu to argue/defned something. Its never peaceful when I go in there. They cant just give me what I asked for.

[trw]

lol heres what you could try, go in and ask for a part, then let them rant, go on thinking about something else, then when they are finished say "you are right, now can i have my part?" hehe

[Jetskiboy77]

LOL, I have kinda done that before. The guy will be like no you should get this engine not the one your talking about. I asked do you have this engine, he said no, I said "looks like I have to order offline again" and walk out. Hes also been like no you should get these there much better, I tell him straight out, No I want this, nothing else, just give me that part, and he gets all pissy. :p

[josh222]

lol, my lhs is kinda small but has every thing i need

[Jetskiboy77]

They usually dont have the little parts I need like screws and other parts, they have like dogbones and stuff. I also like Tower cause you get to take your time and look around at all of their stuff. Plus, a lot of the parts on my car isnt made by HPI, and Tower usually has them.

[josh222]

For me it costs 20bucks for shipping

[Jetskiboy77]

For me its 4$ and it comes in about 2 days, so I have no problem ordering offline. I wouldt order offline if it cost 20$ tho.

[josh222]

well it was 20 bucks for my SS, probaly less for parts, i live in canada but i am only 350miles away from thier warehouse :)

[azizhousecallz]

Just got two nitro cars and we are new to the game and wanted to step up to gas and leave electric behind. We have tried every tip we could find to get these cars started BUT WE HAVE NOT HAD ANY LUCK!!! what are we doing wrong??? we did flood out both engines, took plugs out blew off extra fuel, and dumped out fuel from exhaust. also cleaned out extra fuel in air filter. tried turning glow plug out a turn or two. We opened thot. a lit' heated the motor with blow dryer. we are not happy people! CAN WE GET SOME HELP BEFORE WE SEND THESE THINGS BACK!!!!

If someone would be so kind as to go overr the step by step proceedures in getting started maybe we missed something?

If you have seen the HPI book that comes with the RTR cars you would know that they are no help to the beginner! Can you tell im angry? lol!
thanks for your help!

[josh222]

Ok,

Is your glow ignitor charged?
set the engine at factory
check the glow plug
Is the carb opened 2mm when you are trying to start it?
Heat it up with a blow dryer
if it has roto start make sure battery is charged

I need more info to help you

[azizhousecallz]

Ok,

Is your glow ignitor charged?
set the engine at factory
check the glow plug
Is the carb opened 2mm when you are trying to start it?
Heat it up with a blow dryer
if it has roto start make sure battery is charged

I need more info to help you



Everything is charged, engine is set to factory, the glow plug is fine, carb is only one to 1 mm roto start battery is fine as well? so now what should i do ? and thanks for helping!

[jerseyevo]

Everything is charged, engine is set to factory, the glow plug is fine, carb is only one to 1 mm roto start battery is fine as well? so now what should i do ? and thanks for helping!


1-MAKE SURE THAT THE FUEL AND PRESSURE HOSES ARE MOUNTED CORRECTLY AND PROPERLY SECURED.
2-MAKE SURE THE FUEL IS GOOD.
3-READ BELOW.
http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/how_startengine.asp

[azizhousecallz]

1-MAKE SURE THAT THE FUEL AND PRESSURE HOSES ARE MOUNTED CORRECTLY AND PROPERLY SECURED.
2-MAKE SURE THE FUEL IS GOOD.
3-READ BELOW.
http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/how_startengine.asp



Tried that and we just got fresh fuel! we used these tips today to try to start our cars but we had no luck! really up agaist a wall here.
Maybe i will take it to a show and see if they can get it started!

[josh222]

the carb is closed to much

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh, I always thought it was 1mm. And I accidently had the fuel lines hooked up backwards cause I took the car apart and tried to put it back together very fast and messed that up. :o I had fuel comming out of my pipe. lol I get so mad when I do a beginning mistake, like trying to start it with no fuel. Just take your time and go over everythin real slow and check.

[josh222]

if the carb is 1mm on mine it will stall, and do take your time

[azizhousecallz]

this is a lot of information to take in @ once and we really are greatful for the help.
everything we try the car's just wont start! i guess we are just over looking something! check batteries and everythings charged, glow plug is good, checked all carb settings, fuel is good, and fuel is getting to the engine (when we take off air filter we can see the fuel entering pass the carb). we just cant get the engine to turn over. there are no signs of it even trying to turn over. what are we doing wrong? what are we missing? if you guys can't help were done for!

[jerseyevo]

(we just cant get the engine to turn over. there are no signs of it even trying to turn over. what are we doing wrong? )
what do u mean cant get it to turn over?
it wont spin?
are u using a recoil or rotostart?
does the motor spin with the glowplug out?
remeber there is always a frustration factor with nitro cars but once you lick it its all worth it!

[azizhousecallz]

using a roto start and the engine spins just fine just cant get it to start. not once not ever! made every adjustment by the book and still nothing! cant break it in if we cant get it started! with this carb we have 2 needles and i have adjusted the top needle but have not touched the factory setting on the bottom could that be it? The manual said that i would not need to adjust it until after i break in the engine!

[azizhousecallz]

after much trial and error i have gotten both cars started. questions about the idle?
it keeps going up and down and @ some pionts it starts to run @ high speeds, but i have been able to stop it. im in my break in stage and the car is on a block off the ground. this high speed idle is bad? and how can i stop it from doing this again?

[josh222]

Ok you need to lower the idle, try turning the trim down but makes sure the clutch isn't rubing. You might have to turn the idle on the carb down

[azizhousecallz]

will try it now. one car seems to be fine its the other thats out of control and all upset! lol! working on it now! thanks bro!

[trw]

you want to get the idle as low as you can without it stalling.

Also a tip is to adjust your idle screw ON THE CARB so when you apply your brake it wont completly close the throttle, simply keep adjusting it until the carb cant be closed when the servo pulls back on the throttle link.

Because when applying the brake, the servo has to pull back, and since both brake and throttle links are attatched to the same servo, when it pulls back to apply the brake, it will also pull the throttle link back, and if the idle screw isnt set to stop the throttle from closing, it will close and kill the engine

the idle screw is usually the smallest screw on the carb and is usually located below the air filter throat on the carb.

now if you want the throttle to close for it to be easy to kill the engine, thats fine, but if you adjust it to keep it from closing, then in order to kill the engine, you will have to pinch the fuel line to starve it of fuel, or take a rag and grab the flywheel to stop it *grab the flywheel with the rag NOT your bare fingers* lol

I hope thats clear enough

[jerseyevo]

yes you want to keep the engine idling as hi as possible without the car rolling,but remember he is breaking it in so the car should be off the ground with the wheels spinning and the hi-speed needle should be set rich(usually 3 /2 turns out from closed).
when u want to stall the engine cover the carb instead off plugging the muffler and remember to cool the engine with the piston down at the bottom of the crankase.
good luck and keep us posted.

[josh222]

ya that all sounds good :)

[Jetskiboy77]

I thought you dont cover the carb cause it can suck in the dirt.

[jerseyevo]

suck in dirt from where? my finger?
all i do is put my finger over the carb throat to stall it rather than putting my finger over a hot muffler outlet only too have it flood out and make it difficult to reatart.
plugging the carb is also a good way to check for airleaks.

[Riplox]

Ok, I've just taken a big step as far as RCs go. I stepped up to nitro today with RS4 3 Evo. But the thing is that I've never started a nitro engine before and I don't have a manual. I know about the high and low-end needles and whatnot to lean and richen the mixture, but I need to know the steps to starting it. This model is the rtr version with the electric driveshaft starter (just to make sure you know). Can someone please list the steps?

[trw]

first charge up the electric starter.
then charge up your glow igniter (if you dont have one, get one)
stick the glow igniter on the glow plug, then run the roto-start and the engine should fire up, may need to prime it a little first.

[Jetskiboy77]

I never touch the carb to turn it off, because if you do use your finger, that means that you took your airfilter off, which I hate doing, even when cleaning it. You also risk the chance of knocking dirt from around the carb into the carb. Im a very uptight person about the carb, so I try to stay away from it.

[josh222]

Ya i don't rarely take the filter off anymore, i have learned my lessen, my SS is almost ready fro a rebuild after the long life of 2Gallons :(

[Jetskiboy77]

That sucks. I got between 5 and 6 gallons through my SS. I loved it and I am prob going to rebuild it. I try to take care of the engines by keepin the dirt away/out and I guess it works.

[josh222]

i have been busy latly, the first gallon i did in about 3weeks :p i have had the same jug of fuel since december :D Gona make my chassi out of 3.18mm T6-6061 Aluminum sound good?

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah I havent done any real driving in a while. I did get to break in my engine though, which was good cause its over with. So I should get out and drive that bad boy, I didnt buy a new engine and gas for them to sit there and grow old. No time tho. Your chassis sounds good I want to see a pic or somehting when its done. Stupid question, why 3.18? Why not like 3.1 or 3.2? Its stupid I was just wondering though.

[Jetskiboy77]

Another stupid question, but I am just wondering, is anyone using a One Piece Rear exhaust pipe on their RS4 3. My car already has too much power with a decent 2 piece pipe, but I figure why not go all he wat and get a nice one piece. Links are apprepicated too. (Josh 300th post, still catchin up)

[josh222]

lol, i have almost 1500 :p it is in Imperial system and the converter on the web site that has it does it in weird way, the closet i want is 3.18mm.

I am going to get a RD Logics One-piece rear exhaust pipe when i get my new engine

[Kenny T]

1/8"(3.175mm) Lexan is what I'm making my speed run chassis out of. Why not go all out and go 4mm like most other aftermarket chassis producers? Weight savings? Are you going to cut holes in the chassis for weight savings? Why did you choose 6061 instead of 7075?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm getting into making parts for yourself so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. :D

[josh222]

how much better is 7075? yes i am going to cut holes in the chassi

[rs4lola]

how much better is 7075? yes i am going to cut holes in the chassi
the chassis that comes with the rs4-3ss is 6061 @ 2.5mm and it flexes. I have the 3mm 7075 super chassis and it does not flex at all. So the 7075 alum is way stiffer. To get the same stiffness with 6061 you would probably need to go with 4mm. Then there is the question of weight. you had better know where to make those holes to save weight and still not have a chassis that flexes

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh, do you have a link to it. Also are you sure it fits perfect, its not gonna run up against the graphite upperdeck or my foams?

[azizhousecallz]

i have a new HPI rs4 3 evo and during the break in stage i was running the car @ slow and mid ranges when it stopped. I went to restart it and the roto start would only turn the starter motor 3/4 of the way. I took off the back wheel and pulled the shock off to get a better look and i used a screw driver to better turn it. it will turn the opposite way and it gets stiff but with a little force it will turn. But when i go to turn it the way the roto start would turn it it jams? I don't want to force it for fear of breaking something? Can i get some help as to what could be the problem????

[jerseyevo]

i have a new HPI rs4 3 evo and during the break in stage i was running the car @ slow and mid ranges when it stopped. I went to restart it and the roto start would only turn the starter motor 3/4 of the way. I took off the back wheel and pulled the shock off to get a better look and i used a screw driver to better turn it. it will turn the opposite way and it gets stiff but with a little force it will turn. But when i go to turn it the way the roto start would turn it it jams? I don't want to force it for fear of breaking something? Can i get some help as to what could be the problem????

remove the glow plug and try it again with the rotostart.
at the worst it could be a bad oneway bearing and be sure its not running too rich which will cause flooding and hydrolock.

[azizhousecallz]

remove the glow plug and try it again with the rotostart.
at the worst it could be a bad oneway bearing and be sure its not running too rich which will cause flooding and hydrolock.


have taken the glow plug out and tried to spin the starter with no luck
it just jams! so now what should a newbie like me do next?

[jerseyevo]

have taken the glow plug out and tried to spin the starter with no luck
it just jams! so now what should a newbie like me do next?
as i did with all 4 of my evo's...dump the rotostart and switch to a recoil starter,will cost around $40.00 with a new oneway bearing.
this way you have less to carry around,no more stripped oneway bearings and no battery to worry about.

[josh222]

Yes the RD logics pipe fits, why would they say it was for the rs4 3 if it didn't fit :p

[Jetskiboy77]

I also perfer the pullstart to the roto start, but perfer a starterbox to both of them now.

[Jetskiboy77]

Where can I find the pipe besides my LHS, is it on Tower?

Ok its not on Tower, Josh how much is it about?

[josh222]

IT is 50bucks, you can order it off rd's site with free shipping :)

Here it is (http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_138.htm)

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats beautiful, thanks a lot Josh. And its Outlaw :D :D Just for kicks and giggles is there a Legal one? Cause I think all of my car is legal, and I may wanna keep it like that, but wheres the fun in that? Im prob just gonna go outlaw.

[josh222]

no that is the only one. I am gona get one once i get my new engine, posibly a Fantom, hey Jetsky do you have MSn or aim?

[Jetskiboy77]

Yes I do, its Jetskiboy77@aol.com or Aim, its the same thing. I dont think the name will be too hard to remember. Also isnt the little Aim guy on the side of my name? If not Im gonna have to put him back.

[josh222]

are you going to go on?

[azizhousecallz]

i just pulled my rear wheels off and opened the starter motor plate to find that half of the teeth on the gear in the starter were eaten away! This sucks when your starting out. have not even broken the car in yet and this happens. where is the damn pull start? gotta get one after this bull crap! And the bad thing is that i have two of these cars! and you have to stick this roto start shaft past your shock to get it into the hole to crank the motor. its eating @ my shock already, so i give their roto start system the thumbs down! Shame on HPI and their roto start system! RTR my ***!

[Jetskiboy77]

*If someone tried to IM me, Im sry I accidently blocked it, totally a mistake.*

Heres the Pullstart
Pullstart (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEG6&P=Z)

[Jetskiboy77]

I got curious and went onto Tower to see the weight difference between the Type SS and the R40. The Type SS weighs .7 pounds lighter. Is this true cause I would thought that since the R40 is susposedly a race car and the SS isnt, that the SS would weigh more, but it doesnt. Is that true or did Tower mess up?

[josh222]

IT is true, it has more components to it, it all need the lttle extra weight to grip with some of the engines you can get for it :)

You stripped the roto start because you kept trying to turn it over when it was flooded

[Jetskiboy77]

Go Type SS! The SS holds high perfomance engines pretty well tho, and I like that its lighter.

Get the pullstart, I would just cause I like it better. Im not a fan of electric starting, except for a starter box, which I have fallen in love with.

[vic2367]

true,,,your car was flooded and u strippped the roto start,,,,sorry ,,,,

[josh222]

you will brake a pull start with a flooded engine

[Jetskiboy77]

And you can also burn out a starter box too. I was just saying I think overall the pullstart is better, less to carry, less to break.

[josh222]

no .12 flooded engine will burn my box out, i have a 1/8 box :p

[Kenny T]

Today's damage.
1 broken a-arm
1 bent hingepin
1 broken arm holder
1 smashed c hub
1 stripped steering knuckle
1 lost screw and spacer thingy

Last week's damage
1 broken a-arm.

Damn, those immovable objects seem to pop up from nowhere. :rolleyes: I should really get proper tires, not one year old tires or tires stolen from one of my other cars. I threw my drift tires(tamiya semi slicks on front, tamiya full slicks on back, no tape at all) and I was actually scared to drive it on the road because the power of the engine was able to break them loose if I didn't feather it on, any surge of the throttle or any input from steering would get it sideways. I did get some nice drifts though before I chickened out and went back to the torn belted slicks.

One thing that bothers me is there's a line on the inside of the belted slicks and it's caused by driving on them. I think it's something to do with lateral load on the tires. They started tearing along that line on Monday but I'm still using them. :)

[KronicRacer]

Kenny T
line? a wear line? if its a wear line, it is possibly from the camber you are running another possiblity is from the insert youre using with the tire.
also another thing to throw into the mix is how hard youve been drifting

[josh222]

My stock tires where like that

I would give that crash a 6.5 :)

I have foams and my SS is glued to the road :D

[Jetskiboy77]

Gotta love them foams. They really are as good as everyone makes them seem. They do glue the car to the road, especially with a good suspension set up.

[josh222]

ya, i am running hard foams and it is glued

[Kenny T]

Kronic, It's not a wear line, it goes away if I don't corner hard. They disappeared when I was running it up and down the street and came back when I started drivig on the track that we sorta drew out on the road. No camber.

I think it's the inserts. I don't know what they are but what do you guys recommend? I'm going to get X-patterns as my replacement tires.

I haven't been drifting hard on the tires, well I haven't tried to but it tends to slide when I turn while off the gas.

[josh222]

y it is the crapy grey foam insets, get some of the good inserts

[KronicRacer]

^^^^that or make the switch to foams.

as for inserts try the hpi pro mold inner foam blue (hard) front or black (soft) rear

[josh222]

soft tires hard inserts

[Jetskiboy77]

Or hard or soft foams. Theyre great.

[josh222]

just by Foams, I paid 15 for 2

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah I think Foams are cheaper than regular tires too. I think I pay 40$ for all four foams and theyre already attatched to a nice rim better than I could ever do it. I think I pay 50$ for all four regular tires, 10$ for rims and 40$ on the actual tires and their crappy inserts and thy dont compare to foams. For me, its much better/cheaper to get foams, and theyre better than the regular tires.

[T-EVO RACER]

Yeah foams are great they are going on my project evo.

[T-EVO RACER]

Project evo:

1.sts .12 motor
2.novarossi pipe plus one piece u-turn header
3.mazda 6 body
4.mugen foams
5.mugen dogbones or cvds
6.mugen tie-rods
7.flat five pack holder
lower cg by dropping the reviever flat by the batt. pack
8.5645 hitec steering servo
9.5605 hitec throttle servo
10.aluminium hex hubs
11.mugen threaded aluminium shocks
12.cincro mesh + tranny fluid in the diffs
13.xs3 radio

What chassis should I get though?gpm, hpi, hardcore, need something light.
This isn't too creative just really raced out.

[Jetskiboy77]

This is basacially what I did to mine. Get the graphite parts like shock towers and upperdeck. I like the 20$ chassis off of R/c Boyz. Also get the centax clutch. I use it and love it, and it was only 36$. Ill post more info and links when I get home.

[josh222]

ya the graphite parts are great

[T-EVO RACER]

I forgot to put those in. The sts .12 has a centax clutch. My old mtx-2 is a big pile of parts so I'm puuting those other things in for FREE! I'll have the fastest car at my school car club and it will be competetive at the track (when the maxx is asleep) 8)

[josh222]

sounds good

[HaCo]

I have a question. Would these springs fit the Evo 3? Because buying them all seperately is so expensive... :S

http://www.hpieurope.com/newparts.php?lang=en#7517575175

If not, what is a good springrate configuration Front/Rear for parking lot racing in combination with what foam tires?

Thx,
HaCo

[T-EVO RACER]

Yeah of coarse they are made for the pro 4 which is a street car so it will easily fit on the 3 EVO.

[T-EVO RACER]

Try mugen blue or silver spring they work best at my local coarse which was a parking lot. Then try a little stiifer than 42 in the front and a little stiffer than 40 in the back with 30mm in the back and 26 mm in the front. Or go softer than the compounds given to fill in the imperfections of the parking lot.

[josh222]

ya, i would only use hard springs if you are on a smooth place and have good tires like foams

[Jetskiboy77]

And use the foams on a clean, smooth place. My track was a little messed up, it wasnt really taken care of cause it was early in the season, and I ran my brand new foams for about an hour, and there were some chunks missing, so stick to good surfaces, and your foams will stick better and longer.

[rs4lola]

did you buy the hot bodies centax clutch for rs4-3???
did you have any problems installing and how is its performance??? what about spare parts and can I use the second gears from the r40??? This centax clutch looks very closely like the one in the r40...

[josh222]

so you made your whey over here Rs4lola :D you need a SG engine to use the Centax clutch, i am preety sure it uses the normal gears

[Jetskiboy77]

It gave me some crap in the beginning, but I rebuilt it and its better. Its running perfect now and I think the gears are the same as the RS4 3 gears. You may be able to use the gears from the R40 but I never tried it. Im not sure about the spare parts, it was something Ive been thinking about after the first two weeks I had it, such as screws, bearings and the actual clutch itself, but its been perfect for a while now, so im not worried about parts for now. You need an SG (smooth) Shaft engine and the mounts from HB also. It fits perfect, the engine and clutch drop right in and line up perfect.

[josh222]

rs4lola isn't a noob, i might get the centax

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh do you mean I called him a Noob? Im so sry I never meant to say that so dont anyone infer it like that. I wouldnt call someone a Noob for 2 reasons:
1) Not sure if that person is a Noob, I had 2 years experience before my 1st post year, and by no means was I a Noob, and just cause he has like 10 posts doesnt mean he knows lees than someone that has 1,500 like some people on this board (j/p Josh)
2) I think its discouraging

I dont think hes a Noob and im sry if anyone thought it like that, I was just tryin to write about the clutch. Any more questions Id be happy to ask, and sometimes I go too far into detail for the other people who arent as experienced, this way they understand it just as well as an experienced person.

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh are you still getting the RD Logics pipe? I want it and its a damn good price, but Im not sure if I should wait for the Vantage pipes to get big. Cause I dont want to get the right away, to make sure that theyre perfect with no bugs. What are you gonna get, I like that the Vantage pipe is so much ligher and its also one piece, but im still not leaning towards one side yet.

[josh222]

Yes I am getting it when i buy my new engine at christmass time. Hey JetSki I have been on here since 2002 but i got banned a long time ago :p

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Anyone bought that drift conversion for the NRS43? It looks pretty cool, if you haven't seen it head over to the Hot News and New Stuff forum.

[josh222]

I would like to hear how well it drifts, never seen one though

[Jetskiboy77]

I think it drifts just fine, I dont think I would get the kit if I was gonna get back into drifting. But I like to have my car in a race type form now so I wouldnt get the drift kit, but it does look well made. lol Josh what did you get banned for? And are you going to consider the Vantage graphite pipe or just go for RD?

[josh222]

don't know why, i asked them and a long time later they said it was a mistake :rolleyes: I am just going to go for the RD Logics, would you say mine is a Racer fourm?

Check out my SS, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Lets_see_pics_of_everyones_RS4s/m_2280308/tm.htm

Scroll down

[Jetskiboy77]

I would say so, especially if you get the RD Logic pipe. But, where the graphite shock towers at? And are those threaded shocks, I cant really see.

[josh222]

there on hold for the monent(Halo2) no they are stock shocks

[Jetskiboy77]

lol forget Halo 2, its all about the R/Cs. Forgot the video games. Heres my little racer. Sry that the picture sicks, dont have a good camera, tell me if you think its a good racer, Ive since upgraded the chassis and went with universals all around, along with metal disc brake and fiber pads, and got rid of the one-way, cause I just cant stand not having good brakes, just the way I drive.

[josh222]

nice

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks, all I really need now is the pipe.

[rs4lola]

i am going to see if I can install the centax clutch later this week...AFTER I break in my
NovaRossi RR12L3. This has 1.54hp @ 40,800 rpm (so says NovaRossi!!!). And yes it has an SG shaft, which is why I also want to install/trythe centax. This engine is going to be a monster on a short to medium track(made for parking lot racing). I have only put 1.5 tanks thru but very loud and torquey already. I tried a NTC3 flywheel with
3 ofna shoes but it did not fit under the clutch bell. I am going to try again as I think I installed the clutch springs incorrectly. The car stalls as soon as try to give it gas when it is on the ground. Once I get a digital camera, I will show some pics...very little left of stock ss and way too fast already!!!

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats what happened to me. Everytime I would try to make it go it would stall, untill I rebuilt it and now its much better.

[Kenny T]

Looks good guys.

HPI Fan, If my thoughts/theory is correct, the drift kit will actually make me drift worse on rubber tires. That's why they give you the rims and tires. The kit and tires are made for each other. I'm sticking to drifting my RS4 3 the way it is on rubber.

[josh222]

with some hard tires you can drift all you want, i used to but i went through a set of tires after 5 runs :(

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Sweet looking car.....I was "kinda" drifting in my 1:1 Taurus yesterday and today, it rained like heck. Pretty fun, but don't try it too much, I almost hit some poles a couple of times lol.

[josh222]

ya, well thats why you shouldn't drift non drifter car :p

[Jetskiboy77]

lol How do you drift in a FWD car? (pretty sure the Taurus is FWD) And yeah going through tires that fast is annoying.

[josh222]

you can drift a FWD but not like a FR car

[Jetskiboy77]

Nah you can make it slide, not drift. I consider drifting with the rear tires or AWD with all tires spinning, not just sliding.

[josh222]

ya true, but you can getthe front tires to spin when you do it, the best drifters are AWD, smoke comingofff every tire :D

[Jetskiboy77]

I also like AWD the best, but the front tires spinning doest really do anything. Thats why all real drifters are RWD or maybe AWD.

[josh222]

ok i wana see how long you people have had you SS's EVo' or RTR's, me almost 2 years

[T-EVO RACER]

Yeah, anythings a good racer just have a good set up and driver.

[Jetskiboy77]

I bought mine a short time after it came out, which I guess was about two years ago, maybe a little more, and wow I didnt think it was that long. Two years go by fast when you have a good car I guess.

[TJNMT]

I've had my ss for over 6 months it's my basher onroad as I have the R40 for racing. Also I have been running and racing hpi onroads since 87. I'm pretty glued to them.
Excellent service, quality per price is great.

[Kenny T]

Jetski, it's usually not the front that spins but the rears that lock and slide and if you see a good FF drifter, you can't tell the difference between an FF drifter and FR drifter.

I've had mine since the beginning of the year.

[josh222]

it has been so long for me, there was no EVo and the RTR was selling strong :D i am thinking of getting this body, would paint it all black and get those rims

[Jetskiboy77]

Jetski, it's usually not the front that spins but the rears that lock and slide and if you see a good FF drifter, you can't tell the difference between an FF drifter and FR drifter.

I've had mine since the beginning of the year.

Thats my point, drifting is the tires spinning not sliding from being locked up. Its not important, Im sorry I went off on a tangent, I would much rather talk about our RS4 3's than drifting.

[azizhousecallz]

last night i flipped my RTR 3Evo and the breaks went out on me.
not fully because on the 4 wheel drive the front breaks are working @ about 70% but the rear wheels have no grip/stopping power @ all. The servo is working, and seems to be fine what should i do ?

[josh222]

make sure the screws in the drive cups are tight, the one in the center diff rear cup might be loose

[T-EVO RACER]

Flippin' it doesn't affect it, I've done it about 20,000 times of curbs and stuff. Though my car is crappy thats why it's my project car. hehehehehe!

[josh222]

ya same, when i was learning to drive it cashed a few times

[jerseyevo]

make sure the screws in the drive cups are tight, the one in the center diff rear cup might be loose
yes also make sure you didnt overlook a missing dogbone

[T-EVO RACER]

No, I wasn't learnin' just playin' around with monster trucks and staduim trucks ALOT!!!! HAHAHAHA!!!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

I'm buying my car some deorderant cause trinity smells bad, now I'm using odonell and it smells better so I'm getting so,me axe for my car. hehehehehe

[azizhousecallz]

thanks guys! After cleaning it i discovered that some oily fluid was on the disc and it just kept slipping. took some nitro spray and airgun to clean it off. But im breakin again!

http://www.house-callz.com/flyer/car1.JPG

http://www.house-callz.com/flyer/car5.JPG

http://www.house-callz.com/flyer/car4.JPG

[Jetskiboy77]

That beetle body is awesome, especially the cop lights.

[josh222]

ya very cool

[Turbo B]

hey i new to the borads and im jus tryin to see what else i could use to make my car faster here is sum of the parts i have on the car..the car has the 2 speed with the top end gears,mip racing clutch,rd one piec exhaust.also a turbo pipe not sure of the make,the motor on the car now is an 0.s max 12cv,car has too exrat motors 1 bein a rb c12 pullstart and a xtm 15c, the car has the red and wht springs and shocks r adjectable and so r the tie rods..two hpi air fillters..1 set of slicks so if anyone can tell me a few other things i can use to make it faster than a stock 4 tec plz tell me

[jerseyevo]

hey i new to the borads and im jus tryin to see what else i could use to make my car faster here is sum of the parts i have on the car..the car has the 2 speed with the top end gears,mip racing clutch,rd one piec exhaust.also a turbo pipe not sure of the make,the motor on the car now is an 0.s max 12cv,car has too exrat motors 1 bein a rb c12 pullstart and a xtm 15c, the car has the red and wht springs and shocks r adjectable and so r the tie rods..two hpi air fillters..1 set of slicks so if anyone can tell me a few other things i can use to make it faster than a stock 4 tec plz tell me
how about dropping in the hpi .18 ss engine,no mods required to install.

[azizhousecallz]

That beetle body is awesome, especially the cop lights.


i have a soft sensor hooked up to the body that sits between the body & frame. when it hits a bump it triggers the lights. looks really cool @ night! :D

[T-EVO RACER]

Where'd you get them? My cowd pleazer scheme is a cop truck. So where did you get them?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

The HPI 18ss will make the car hit 60+, but you can always drop in a TRX 2.5, with a little mods and the gearing you have I'm sure you'd hit close to 70.

I had a Fantom FR15 in mine with that gearing and it was hitting around 55, but I didn't have enough street for those speeds lol.

[Jetskiboy77]

but you can always drop in a TRX 2.5, with a little mods and the gearing you have I'm sure you'd hit close to 70.

I think its more than a little mods, I dont remember people saying it was easy, but that it was hard to get that engine in there. Also 70 might be too high of a claim.

[T-EVO RACER]

:D A sts .12 5 port turbo will. :D

[T-EVO RACER]

Have any of you guys broken your dogbone leading to the rear differential? I've done it one...two...three.....four......five.....yeah about 6 times. But I race those 5th scale cars at crystal sometimes also and they throw me into the wall. I always beat em though! :D Then should I get a cvd going to the back dif? :confused:

[T-EVO RACER]

This is the 1400th post here. Thats all I wanted to say. And rs4's rule!!!!!! And so do their drivers!!!!!!!

[Turbo B]

well i what does the 18ss go for and wouldnt a fantom be a betta motor and does any1 kno anything bout the xtm i got the motor in a trade so would that be a good motor jus to throw on the car and drive around if any1 can give me the specs on the xtm id lbe greatful

[Jetskiboy77]

How do you break that dogbone? Ive twisted maybe 2 or 3 dogbones, but thats in my .21 NMT. Ive never broke or twisted a dogbone in my RS4 3, and especially the one to the rear diff, thats just wierd. I have the CVD ( or whatever its called) dogbone that runs to the center diff and its a very nice piece if you want to get it.

[josh222]

ok settle down, the .18SS doesn't make anywhere near what they say, the TRX 2.5 is also not worth it, keep away from stocker engines, if you want .18 CVR18(1.6HP) or the Epic(1.6-1.8HP)

[Jetskiboy77]

.18 CVR all the way. Thats where youll get the insane speeds.

[TJNMT]

Have any of you guys broken your dogbone leading to the rear differential? I've done it one...two...three.....four......five.....yeah about 6 times. But I race those 5th scale cars at crystal sometimes also and they throw me into the wall. I always beat em though! :D Then should I get a cvd going to the back dif? :confused:

Yes sir only one company that makes a fix and that is hot bodies. I run a tr in mine and learned after the 3rd break.
here is your fix.
They will last around 1-2 gallons before they break in half.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5930956189

[T-EVO RACER]

I'll get a cvd. But I'll try a mugen dogbone if its fits. That sts.12 will problably break that dogbone. Plus cvd's will give more wheel power.

[TJNMT]

With the mugen dogbone you will neet to grind out some of hubs on the rs4, so you will have some minor work to be done.

[Turbo B]

ok well does any1 have one the os 18cvr for sell or are they cheap?

[T-EVO RACER]

135 bucks for a sts .12 3 port turbo plug roar legal motor. MUST TAKE SO MUCH GOOD CARE OF IT!!! My 5 port turbo plug non-roar legal was 175 bucks. Faster than most JP MOTORS AT 400 BUCKS!!!
WARNING!!!
BREAK IN IS ICREBILY HARD, NOT SURE YOU FIT ONE ON, i will post in a few weeks sayin' if one fits on or not. The os motor should be cheap.

[josh222]

yes they are cheap, $120 for the non pull, 139 for the pull version

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats a nice price, last time I saw them they were 160$.

[T-EVO RACER]

160? They don't cost that much. 120-140 like josh22 said is right. Once I replace that t-15 motor with my sts, what should I do with it?

[Jetskiboy77]

Use it as a paper weight. I thought it was 160$ cause I had an old Tower catalogue next to my computer and it said 160$ but the price dropped and I had the new catalogue downstairs and didnt look at it yet.

[Turbo B]

ok with the o.s max 18 crv what will i need to hood the power without breakin anything and what do u think my car would run now with the set i have its on page 56 lol

[T-EVO RACER]

Or I can sell it. It's not a BAD motor for newbies, but a BAD motor for guys who know how to control a lot of power.

[josh222]

You don't need to add anything when you drop in a CVR18

[Jetskiboy77]

Unless you want to upgrade to stronger parts, which I think is over rated. If you dont abuse the power of the engine, with donuts or excessive and useless full throttle take offs, then you wont need anything to put that engine in, maybe engine mounts, not sure if you have them or not.

[josh222]

ya, the nitro 3 has a good drive train, it doesn't strip like mad, the people who have those problems do things like doghnuts and have no grease in the diffs

[Jetskiboy77]

Yep, its the same drivetrain thats in my .21 NMT, and those gears have held up perfectly, so it easily takes .12 racing power. I have almost no sign of wear on my stock gears, even the plastic ones, and theyre almsot 2 years old. Also the dogbones are smaller so they are harder to break. Gotta love shaft drive.

[Turbo B]

well i was goin to order it but it stock 150 b4 tax that sucks any1 got a used 1

[trw]

*edit* nvm read a few posts above

ive stripped one spur gear with my OS .18 CVR but that was only because i didnt have it close enough for the pinions to actually grab the spurs, so they just slipped on the tips of the teeth and chewed em down.

[josh222]

well you have to have the gear mesh set right

[azizhousecallz]

new to the game! My evo is over heating & cutting off. will start again after sitting for about five minutes. does this with the body on and sometimes with the body off. could this be because its not getting enough fuel? :p

[josh222]

If it is to lean then richen it up, what temps are you running? Soulds like you have it lean if it will die when running it

[azizhousecallz]

i think it was a little lean i have my needle @ factory settings, but i changed my air filter to a better high flow upgrade. I think i was getting air in past my glow plug and it was causing my shut off problem. after changing my glow plug and resetting my needle and making some adjustments for the new air filter she runs like a champ!
Trouble shooting can be a b*tch but its fun. really love this game! oh! thats basketball! lol!

[Jetskiboy77]

Theyres nothing better than a successful trouble-shooting session, I always feel so accomplished, unless its a stupid thing like having no fuel. :o

[josh222]

ya i know what you mean :)

[rs4lola]

have installed any ball diffs(A958) in your rs43-ss??
heard they can make the car faster but have to rebuild often. any thoughts???
ya i know what you mean :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Whats the point in getting them? My drivetrain is ultra smooth, what would be the use to spend more money on something like this? I dont mean to sound like a meanie, I think its just coming off like that though. Just typing in a hurry. :)

[rs4lola]

Whats the point in getting them? My drivetrain is ultra smooth, what would be the use to spend more money on something like this? I dont mean to sound like a meanie, I think its just coming off like that though. Just typing in a hurry. :)
The point in getting them is to reduce lap times when parking lot racing. It would be nice to hear from someone who has tried using the ball diffs in their rs4-3ss. Everyone is entitled their opinion, good or bad. I just want more feedback than its great, its lousy or I dont know...

[Kenny T]

It's just that ball diffs are easier and quicker to adjust. You don't have to change the oil in your gear diff to adjust the action. It just means you can set the diff to the track conditions in less time than with a gear diff. I'd rather stick to gear diffs because as rs4lola said they require lees maintenance and handles the power better.

[Riplox]

Can anyone point me to a site that has the stock test run results for the evo? Such as top speed, braking distance, roadholding, and all the other good stuff.

[josh222]

i don't know of any sites like that. but the SS has been clock at 50+mph

[josh222]

i am probaly gona get ball diffs.

[KronicRacer]

its extremely tunable part. the downside it has no life. i actually had the plastic nut holder warp from sitting in my real car. this made the diff totally untunable, i guess that why they supply two of those parts. worst case scenario stick with the stock diff.

ill have to check to see if the r40 spider diff mod can be done to the nitro 3 rearend.

[josh222]

you can get the hard carbide balls

[rs4lola]

you can get the hard carbide balls
I have the ball diffs already but not installed yet...still tuning my NovaRossi RR12L3 (definitely a powerhouse!!!)
I have read up on a few suggestions to improve the life of the hpi ball diff:

1) sand the polish off of the diff rings and thrust washers
2) get ceramic balls (1/8 and 3/32)
3) use associated stealth thrust spring
4) use m2 size nut on end of thrust screw
5) use light amount of lube oil on diff balls

I guess I will experiment over the winter!!!
Bought another car...Kyosho v-one rr evo.
Have a chance now to compare shaft drive to belt drive...

[Jetskiboy77]

lol , Belt has nothing on Shaft, j/p, to each their own. Good Luck with your new car. I dont think those diffs are worth the maintence so Im gonna stay away untill we get soem feedback.

[josh222]

i might just build one diff at first, i would get the harded main gear hd drive cups and hard balls

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh, how much is it going to cost you to build?

[T-EVO RACER]

First I'm giving it a good scrub down, but the sts just, just, just, whoo man just fits in there. May have to cut another hole for the flywheel. The flat five mod with be planned out and maybe go into action today, then the mounting of the shocks, arms, alum. hexs, tie rods, lowering the reciever down to the chassis by the flat five mod, then tires, then exhaust.

[Jetskiboy77]

Whats the flat five mod? Im sry if you posted it before and I didnt see it, but I think Ive read like the last 10 or more pages of this thread.

[Kenny T]

Modifying the upper deck so it can hold flat 5 cell reciever packs and mount the reciever lower. Either HPI or Hot Bodies made an upper deck with this already done to it. I think it was the HPI upper deck.

[Jetskiboy77]

Its the HPI one because I have the Hot Bodies one and I have to use the hump pack.

[josh222]

it isn't really a mod, it is just a flat pack and upper deck, done that a long time ago

[T-EVO RACER]

Yeah just noticable on the track. I had stuff growing on my chassis thats how dirty it was. Did about 1/4 of the whole job yeserday, now today maybe 2/4 of it will get done.

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah thats kinda nasty. :p What exactly is growing, stuff like mold?

[T-EVO RACER]

Kinda, but I got the sts on, only a little left then me and my dad are done, then the fun part, HUNTIN' DOWN MUGENS!!!

[josh222]

ya at my local track there is a SS that beats every thing :D

[KronicRacer]

its a no go on the spider diff mod. :( nitro three has a way smaller differential unit in use.

[Jetskiboy77]

ya at my local track there is a SS that beats every thing :D

Thats awesome, I love when the underdog kicks all the expensive "race" cars. They dont like the SS because its not race ready out of the box, but when you get to mod it how you want and it costs the same money as if you bought a "high end" kit, in the end its the way that you like it and your beating everyone, so theres nothing better. I stay with all the high end cars at my track, and since my cars not fragile like theirs, I get a lot more laps in when they crash and break stuff.

[josh222]

it doesn't need it, the diffs are already strong enough. if you want to go al out do this.. HD main gears, ball diff kit, hardened balls for ball diff, shim it and put heavy duty diff grease in it

[Jetskiboy77]

Did you order the ball diff parts yet Josh? I wanna know how that works for you. And the drivetrain is amazing in the RS4 3, I can give it a tiny push, and it goes forever.

[trw]

well after i got my OS back a while ago i put it in, I pulled the fuel line off and let it sit for about a week and a half....been playing GTA:SA lately, but now i took my car out yesterday and realized how much i missed driving it lol....gotta get the OS re-broken in :( im so glad that the winters here usually hang around 60-75 degrees :D although recently my track has changed some rules and its slowly becoming a sanctioning track, hopefully they will still allow my OS .18 CV-RX since i do have VIP membership hehehe

[rs4lola]

Thats awesome, I love when the underdog kicks all the expensive "race" cars. They dont like the SS because its not race ready out of the box, but when you get to mod it how you want and it costs the same money as if you bought a "high end" kit, in the end its the way that you like it and your beating everyone, so theres nothing better. I stay with all the high end cars at my track, and since my cars not fragile like theirs, I get a lot more laps in when they crash and break stuff.

well put!!! Only diff cases, handle, fuel tank post are the original parts left on my ss. EVERYTHING else I have upgraded...
I will be installing the ball diffs this week as well as trying out the HotBodies centax clutch. My NovaRossi rr12l3 is almost broken in and I can definitely say...Its faster than
the OS .18 cv-r!!! Much higher rpm and way better on fuel
consumption. Hard to start but once started, does not flame out. Only leaned out the high speed needle a little so far...want to save it for racing the big boys next spring!!!
Anyway, I seem to be having too much wheelspin when first giving it gas. Any solutions?? I think my rear springs are too soft and the tires are too hard. Will the balls diffs
give me better traction as once the car grips its off like a rocket...

[Jetskiboy77]

The Centax clutch is very nice, youll love it on your excellent engine. What tires do you have? Maybe you could get some softer tires of foams?

[Turbo B]

rs4lola would you happen to still have your 18 crv if so would u sell it

[Jetskiboy77]

Quick question, howd you go through that engine so fast, isnt it relatively new? Unless you just run hard and a lot, or your using it as back up or in a different truck/car?

[trw]

does it acelerate faster then the OS .18 to?

[josh222]

the CV-R 18 can rev to 40+K in a touring car it reved easly to 38k in a T-maxx
o i have to wait until christmas for the ball diffs if i choose to get them. have 15 bucks right now and i am starting a Liquid cooling project, i am gona make a rad from cooper so i can sodier it

[rs4lola]

does it acelerate faster then the OS .18 to?
yep, way faster and thats with the same tall gears I used for the os .18 cvr. The peak hp for the os .18 is 30k rpm while the rr12l3 peaks at 40k800 rpm !!! Now the OS definitely has great torque but the rr12l3 has more. Now most probably wont belive this but the rr12l3 is a long stoke engine made for short tracks and therefore has ballistic acceleration. This thing is roar legal and is ideal for parking lot racing. Its lighter and has a lower center of gravity and can run hotter enclosed in a sedan body...
I have leaned the low speed needle enough to idle thru a whole tank without stopping and barely leaned out the high
speed needle during break in. Now the real kicker is that the engine is still NOT fully broken in yet!!! Another 3/4 tanks should let me easily start it with the starter box I have. The fuel consumption is more than 50% better as I can go at least 9 minutes as compared to less than 6 minutes with the O.S. .18 and the exhaust is a lot less oily
with white smoke on acceleration. Downside?? cost me over $400 CAD, over twice as much as the OS .18.
The rr12l3 in the rs4-3ss is a real rocket racer. Now I can concentrate on tuning the suspension...

[josh222]

I know Nova Rossi's are fast but the cvr 18 makes enough torque for a T-maxx to wheelie

[Turbo B]

lol well my os max cv 12 is has good power lol i want an 18 so bad but its gettin old and its like im wastin 150 bucks.. and u neva know 0s mite make a better motor for the same price... but damn i want power @ my fingers

[rs4lola]

Quick question, howd you go through that engine so fast, isnt it relatively new? Unless you just run hard and a lot, or your using it as back up or in a different truck/car?
the OS .18 cvrx has less than 2 gallons thru it. Was really easy to drive fast and when it hit second gear, acceleration was ballistic. But acceleration off the line was not good. Could be beat by .12 engines around small racing track.
The rr12l3 is much more oriented for the type of racing
we will be doing next year. If i was not racing then a .18
engine would be great for just bashing around...but now I have the racing bug to beat all the "pro" cars with a lowly
rs4-3ss!!!

[Turbo B]

ok i order the motor "18cvr" but will the pipe i have need to be changed i have the rd one prece can i still use it?

[Turbo B]

plz sum1 let me kno cause if i need a new 1 im goin to order the exhust 2nite

[trw]

no, the 18 can use the same exhaust as the 12, any side exhaust system will work with it.

[Turbo B]

iight thank u

[josh222]

ya 12-18 use the same parts, like clutch, exhaust and stuff like that

[Turbo B]

the motor is jus goin to sit in my room till it gets warm i guess ill kill the the 12 cv

[Jetskiboy77]

But acceleration off the line was not good. Could be beat by .12 engines around small racing track.

Really? I woulda thought that since its not too far off from big block size, that it would have some nice torque to it. Guess not.

[trw]

i find that hard to believe....my OS 18 rips, i get scared i might actually break some things when i gun it.

[Jetskiboy77]

Maybe you had it very rich on low-end? I also cant see the OS not having torque.

[rs4lola]

Maybe you had it very rich on low-end? I also cant see the OS not having torque.
Yep the OS .18 has great torque but you have to gear up in order to take advantage of the torque. With the engine geared up, it does not rev quickly as a racing .12 and therefore the acceleration off the line is poorer. Now the .18 would probably have a higher top speed but in parking lot racing, you usually have only one strait to get into second with lots of turns while staying in first gear. Once the .18 hits second gear, it had ballistic acceleration but for racing you stay in first gear more than 80% of the time. The rr12l3 combines the torque of the .18 with lower weight and a much faster accelerating engine. I have both engines and when they were both geared the same, the rr12l3 is faster accelerating and its is still not fully broken in. Not many people know about this NovaRossi engine as it is still relatively new, but it was made for the kind of racing that most people would like their sedan to have: super fast acceleration with low fuel consumption around a parking lot. This engine is WAY less thirsty than the os .18.
I bought this engine for parking lot racing, acceleration out of a corner reduces lap times more than high speed down the strait. I am sure my rs4-3ss with the rr12l3 will have lower lap times than the os .18 (which I can't race anyway and is the whole reason why I bought this engine!!!). The os is a great engine and the .18tz version will be even better...now if only we could get fuel injection with no low/mid/high needles and a computer to tune it for constant engine temp while racing instead of guessing while idling in the pits with a screwdriver!!!

[Jetskiboy77]

lol @ the fuel injection, who knows it may come at sometime. And how much is this NovaRossi Engine?

[F150RTR]

I had two Tamiya brand nitro cars, but tomorrow i am getting my first HPI RS4 3 RTR, very excited :) also i am new here

Any thing special i should do to it other than breaking it in?
What first mod(hop up) should i get?
I am getting the F150 flared body......how is it with handeling

[Turbo B]

whats the new 18tz?? and its it the same price

[trw]

its the new .18 (duh lol) but i think its for Tmaxx and savage with roto-starts or something....not sure.

and F150RTR welcome!

first mod I'd say is get a motorsavers air filter, cheap yet much more protective then the stock one.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCCE1&P=ML

^ thats a motorsavers air filter, HPI just paid them to slap HPI's name on it lol

another good mod is a fuel filter, 3 bucks but its cheap insurance.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMJ9&P=7

thats the filter i use and its works flawlessly, if u get it just make sure its not on backwards or your engine wont run (wire mesh inside must be on the engine side of the fuel line.)

then if your RTR doesnt have adjustable turnbuckles, get them:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLT79&P=Z
order 3 quantities of those ^
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM471&P=Z

then after that, ditch the stock D compound tires, they stink.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM980&P=ML
get those tires, they grip nicely and last a long time (use foams they come with too)

im not sure if the RTR comes with a 2-speed, if not that would be one of your highest and best investments to get for the car, espensive yet VERY affective
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTB6&P=Z

then when you start racing (if you do at all) try different spring setups
maybe get a new engine and exhaust setup, then try the carbon fiber upper deck, super chassis etc.... if your just gonna bash though those several mods i listed above will make the car perform alot better.

[Kenny T]

I snapped the high end needle off the 10C(slide) carb on my 15CV-RX a while ago and got around to fixing it today only to find the engine wouldn't prime as well as before. I can't figure out what's causing it. What do you guys think. Also there's a lot of smoke at idle than before even though I haven't touched the low end.

[F150RTR]

TRW thank you for the reply and advice. One more question i have read that if i store the car for more than one week there is a certain type of oil that you put in the engine to keep it lubricated. Whats the name of that oil?
How much do you put?
Also when i come to run the car do i have to take that oil out or just start it?

You mentioned these parts:
then if your RTR doesnt have adjustable turnbuckles, get them:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXLT79&P=Z
order 3 quantities of those ^
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXM471&P=Z
What are they for/ or what do they do/ allow you to do?

Thank you

[trw]

that oil is called after run oil, you take off the air filter and put in like 4 or 5 drops or so down the carb throat, then pull out the glow plug and pull the pullstart to circulate it.

no, you can just go ahead and start it, when it starts it will automaticly flush out the oil through the ehxaust.

the adjustable turnbuckles i mentioned allow you to adjust the camber of the tires, the camber is how much the tire leans towards the car or away, determining whether the inner part of the tire grips the road, the entire surface, or the outer part. the fixed ones (non-adjustable) are set so the inner portion of the tires grip the road, after a while of driving (maybe a month or more) you'll notice the inside portion of the tires wearing out while the middle and outer parts have no wear at all, plus it also robs you of extra grip you could be getting.

with adjustable ones, you can set it to where you have the entire surface of the tires griping the road, that will give you a nice even wear, makes the tires last alot longer, and gives you alot more grip.

you'll need atleast 4 of those rods (6 if you want to include adjustable steering to) so thats why i suggest 3 quantities.

[Jetskiboy77]

Those tires are garbarge regardless of camber and toe settings. The 2-speed if easily my favorite upgrade for any nitro car/truck. I think its well worth the money, more speed and accleration and the sound is amazing. Get the turnbuckles too, I am so happy I have them on my Type SS, there a great way to adjust handling. Also get around to getting the Graphite Upper Deck, I think this is one of the best upgrades for the RS4 3 even if just bashing, it lightens the car and makes it more solid. Get used to the car first though and see what you dont like and want to change and well help you change it for the better.

[oachalon]

I have a question. I just got my rs4 3 ss today and i am in the middle of building it but i ran into a problem. I built the center where the spur gears and and thats fine but when i put the cover on the cover is at an angle because on the part that the cover attaches to the right side is taller than the left side. Is it supposed to be angled like that or am i suppose to cut it so both of them are at the same height. Theres little lines there like its suppose to be cut. If someone can respond quick i would be very thankful. I want to get this car built lol.

[oachalon]

the center bulkhead is what i am talking about.

[Kenny T]

Sounds like it's on back to front.

[oachalon]

its on correct. One side is higher than the other though,

[oachalon]

Heres a picture im talking about. Now if you put the top on its going to be at an angle not really lay completely level and flat. Is that correct because its weird and i have never seen anything like that.

http://home.comcast.net/~liquidkid/rccar2.JPG

[oachalon]

you put the cover on its going to be at angle and not lay flat. And there will be a gap in the back part. Dont know if you know what i mean. The cover will still clear the spur gears when it lays flat. Not sure how its suppose to be. I know you guys have built this thing.

[oachalon]

im almost positive it has to be cut because with the cover at an angle the screws wont even go in. Theres no reason why the cover shouldnt lay flat.

[josh222]

that peice is the whey it is sapost to be, mine is like that. it slides on the top nice and level

[oachalon]

why isnt mine sliding on the top nice and level. The screws arent even lining up.

[oachalon]

Heres bad pictures but it shows with the cover on. When the cover is on it doesnt screw down on one side and it kind of restricts the spur gears.

http://home.comcast.net/~liquidkid/rc3.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~liquidkid/rc4.jpg

[F150RTR]

Thank you for the reply guys

[T-EVO RACER]

She's almost done,just gotta put the electronics side of the car done with a fabrication for a flat five cell batt. Then put reciever on and hitec 645mg for the steering and a 605mg for the throttle. Then finished cuting holes/smoothening them on my mazda 6. :)

[jjmag26]

Spoke to soon

[trw]

oachalon, that cover is sometimes a pain to slip on, give it some elbow grease and it should slide in, may need to mess with it for a few minutes before it does, its crooked because its not lined up correctly.

[oachalon]

alright guys i got it to slip on. Took some force. I would say the car is a little over half complete. Probably finish it tomorrow.

[Turbo B]

i blew up my motor 2dai... ya ya ya.. question did it blow cause it was cold outside or was it jus time to go?

[Jetskiboy77]

I used to have a hard time getting that cover on too, you get used to it, I dont have to do it anymore since I got an aluminum one. BTW, Nice pick of servos, im using the same one for steering, will soon upgrade throttle one too. What do you mean by the motor blew? Like it blew up or it just has no compression or what?

[T-EVO RACER]

Anyone on this forum live in southern california?