HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[Jetskiboy77]

I wish, it seems to be nice R/C weather there and a lot of people into running them. Not as big where I live in New York, cold (right now) and not too many tracks.

[T-EVO RACER]

Come, on there must be SOME people!

[oachalon]

Well i finished the car. Its cold here to run it might not be able to run it till spring time we will see what happens. I have a question though. The diffs seem pretty tight on this car. Will they loosen up or are they meant to be that tight to basically give it some kind of limited slip? Probably loosens up a little after some driving thats probably just natural.

[oachalon]

Another question is i have an rs4 pro 2 electric that i built years ago and that thing has cvds and seems to be better shocks. Will these work on the rs4 3 ss and should i use them instead.

[T-EVO RACER]

In this order YEAH!!!!!!!!.....and YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!, if LIL' JON said it. They should fit just because they are all the same size, don't ask us, TRY IT!!

[Kenny T]

The diffs will loosen up over time. The CVD's probably won't work but the shocks will.

[josh222]

the top piece isn't on all the way. put the taller side on first

[Jetskiboy77]

The diffs will work themselves in, the gears will get used to one another and it will be ultra smooth. Mine were also tight at first, and now I can give the car a gentle push and it will roll for about 10 feet.

[Turbo B]

well it no longer has compression

[Jetskiboy77]

Maybe it sucked in too much dirt, or anything else that may have scratched the sleeve/piston.

[Turbo B]

jets what part of ny you from?? im from the bronx question what happenes when you drive you car in the car?

[Jetskiboy77]

Im from Queens, lol, drive my car in the car? Im guessing you mean cold, and nothing happens. I dont drive in the snow or rain anymore, and when its cold out I richen the needle settings a little bit, then go out and run it hard, but still careful because the tires wont grip well cause the dont heat up as much as they do in the summer. Oh, and my hands get really cold, because I dont drive with cars because I dont think I will have good enough control of the car/truck. If you run in the cold though, you MUST get you engine up to running temps quickly and keep it there, I dont think thats why your engine took a dirt nap, I think its because something got into your engine. You may think you always had your airfilter and fuel filter on, like I did, and I just recently took apart my old Type SS engine, and saw a beaustiful scrath down the sleeve.

[rs4lola]

great weekend!!! finished running the rs4-3ss a few hours ago...wish we could skip strait to spring!!! Anyway, tried to install 100cc racing tank for MT2. Does NOT fit in any way shape or form into this car. HPI Europe said it would fit onto an Rs4-3 Evo. Cant see how!!! Installed ball diff in rear. Very smooth. No more wheelspin. Installed ceramic ball bearings. Car runs much smoother still. Install solid axle in front. Car now turns on a dime!!! Turning circle has been cut in half and easier to drive. This will be great for parking lot racing. Installed front 1/8 foams on all four wheels. Car handles great but is too wide. Can only use Yokomo lola/gtp wide 200mm body. Going to experiment with rs4 pro2 suspension arms as they will bring the wheels in 5mm each side and should be able to fit under stratus body. Wide wheels/foams are definitely the way to go as handling has increased phenomally but if you race roar rules...your SOL!!!

[Turbo B]

lol i said i ran my car in the car wow that was dumb.. well yea i no longa have a motor i have an rb c12 and a xtm 15c but i want my os but i have to wait till late dec to get it jet where do you drive your car @ mayb we can meet up

[josh222]

I am getting a DuraTrax Velocity .15 for a temperary engine. my .12R SS is toasted, with the plug out i can spin the engine around a few times :p I am getting it for free off a friend, needs to be broken in :p

[Jetskiboy77]

My SS is done too. I drive around my house usually. Sometimes I go out to Brooklyn to the hobby store "Brooklyn Hobbies" and go to Floyd Bennit Field and drive with the people over there. Its too cold now, I would love to drive with someone else, its too cold now though, maybe when it warms up in the summer we can get together.

[josh222]

I drive mine all year, and where i live in Canada gets preety cold

[Turbo B]

iight most def we can meet up when it gets warm. i jus dont kno what motor to get now i mite yet for the os 18 tz or whateva its called.. so for now im jus goin to clean the car ^ a bit maybe i can find a used motor or sumthing

[josh222]

it is ok to drive in the winter

[Turbo B]

well if you wanna meet up and ran in the winter im down well i do need to get a motor on the car.. but what is your hook up list?

[F150RTR]

Hi everyone, did anyone try those dual exhaust systems that you can get on e-bay for the RS4 3 RTR, if you did , do they work proprely and is there any harmful conseqeunces to the engine?

thank you

[josh222]

those systems aren't really good, they have, A; no backpressure and B; no whey for oil to get out of the the exhaust. If you want dual exhaust get a CVEC :D

[F150RTR]

iam new here so whats CVEC?

[josh222]

this is a cvec, you can get them in a few colours

CVEC (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBYF8&P=ML)

[Jetskiboy77]

Those dual exhausts are garbage. What do you mean by hook up list? And Josh its not that its too cold to run the cars, I just dont want to stand out there and freeze, its not the car, the car is fine, I dont want to stand there.

[josh222]

lol, i just bundle up :p

[Jetskiboy77]

lol yeah but I hate wearing all that clothing, it gets to me after a while, its not that I get like cold, my hands do that, and thats annoying. And I wont run with gloves cause I know I wont have the same control, although I did find some small gloves that work well. But I mainly use the winter to get my engines running perfect, like with a tank or two outside, and then tear down the car and clean everything, and it runs awesomely in the summer, a good cleaning is equalivent to some good hop-ups, IMO. But real clean ups like into the diffs and shocks and drivetrain and even into the suspension parts. Car runs like a champ after that, winter is my time to get the car ready for the summer.

[Turbo B]

i mean what "mods" "go faster parts"are on your car

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats what I thought you meant. Here ya go:

Engine
HPI .12R XS SG Shaft

Fuel and Air
Upgraded on road air filter
Fuel filter
Racer tank

Drivetrain
2 Speed, CVDs at all 4 corners, had a one way, took it out, center CVDs, metal and fiber brakes conversion, centax clutch, non pullstart mounts, aluminum center gear mount

Suspension and Handling
Rpm ball cups, Stainless steal pins and brace, aluminum threaded shocks, pro linear springs, graphite shock towers, graphite upper deck, foam tires, aluminm steering rack with ball bearing mod, aluminum knuckles and c-hubs, hitec 645mg steering servo, upgraded chassis

This car is AMAZING, I couldnt ask for anything better.

Um, theres probably more that im forgetting, what you got?

[Jetskiboy77]

Heres a quick pick:

[Jetskiboy77]

One more:

[Turbo B]

i must say your car looks great!!!! well as for me my car started out as a rs4 3 not an ss
engine
12 os cv =blown
c12 rb= goin on the car
rd one piec exhaust
also i have the non pull start flywheel on the os but on the rb i have the pull start flywheel but the ighter 1

Fuel and Air
Fuel filter
hpi air fillter

Drivetrain
2speed
mip racing clutch

handling
jus shocks r adjectable and so r the tie rods.. same tie rods u got

question do you think the car would be fast with rb :confused: cause now thats i think bout i dont really want the 18 cvr :rolleyes: .. i dont race the car @ the truck jus up and down my block and in sum parkin lots :D

[trw]

i must tell my list to its sooos ssoooo hhha ahhhaard to resssssissst

my car started as an SS, its no longer an SS, i call it an RS4 3 T.R.W. (Tip Roar Wool) why is it no longer an SS u ask? because everything that made it an SS has been upgraded! w00t!

Engine: OS .18 CVR
Exhaust: RD Logics 1-piece turbo side exhaust
Air filter: Motorsavers 1/8th onroad
Tires: HPI X-pattern Radials
Fuel: O' Donnell 30%
Radio: Futaba 3PM 3-channel FM
Shocks: HPI non-threaded super shock set
Front springs: HPI Pro Red linear
Rear springs: HPI stock black
Sway Bars: HPI RS4 Sway bar set
Turnbuckles: stock SS adjustables
CVDs: MIP Shiny CVDs
Brake disk: HPI Fiberglass Disk
Electronics deck: HPI lightweight carbon fiber deck
Bumper plate: HPI Carbon Fiber
Fuel Filter: Golden Horizons F.F.
Body: BMW M3

soon to come:
Chassis: HPI super chassis
Engine Mounts: HPI 20mm heatsinked'
differential: HPI heavy duty shafts

[josh222]

I have been kinda strapped for cash and my upgrading has been going slow, here is what i have done

Graphite Upper Deck
Foam Tires
Front Suspention Braces
80WT oil
Fuel filter
Ofna Air filter
HPI Alumium Pipe(for now)
Ported Manifold
Gone to non pull on engine
Starter box

My SS isn't very fast yet but i can say it is probaly one of the best handling SS's aound :)

[josh222]

all my pic are too big

[josh222]

here are some links...

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=41268

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=41265

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks Turbo, and yes the RB should be fast.

My SS isn't very fast yet but i can say it is probaly one of the best handling SS's aound :)

Not like handling is important. J/K, I was always a speed freak, but now that I am really into a "race" hobby, I know that accleration and handling are basacially the most important. Thats a nice list Josh, and everyone else.

I also have the sway bars and a starter box. I will soon get the RD Logics pipe, I think its one of the last things I need. For thr record, my car also started off as a Type SS. I also believe that our cars can keep up with the expensive ones, and ours are built with our liking, with our own personaly parts put on when we wanted them on, and I also like modifying the car, not just have it handed to me being fast.

[Turbo B]

but the motor needs to be rebuilt what do you think that will cost

[Jetskiboy77]

For RB's it may not be cheap. I dont know RB so great, so someone else should know. Its a RB C12 right?

[Turbo B]

yea its a c12 and its like 75 bucks for the piston and i need to buy a new pull start wow.. do u think the rb would beat an 18?? sounds like a nobb question i kno

[Kenny T]

Might as well join in.

Started as RS4 3 SS.

Mods list in no particular order.
15 CVR-X
Heatsink engine mounts
GPM 4mm chassis
HPI racing clutch
lightened, vented flywheel(Purple of course)
HPI Graphite upper deck
Graphite front shock tower
MIP CVD's all round
racer fuel tank
Hot Bodies metal brake converion
Motor Saver air filter
Sway Bar set
GPM aluminium threaded shocks (I have all four but only the rears are on the car.)
SS hinge pins
Some sort of aluminium HPI exhaust made for the RS4 3.

[Jetskiboy77]

I have the racer tank too, and it seems a lot of us started out with the Type SS model.

[Turbo B]

i dont have the chassis "still on the stock 1"
dont have the racer tank
no graphite upper deck"soon to take it cause it only cost 17 bucks"
and no cvd
do i really need all that stuff??

[trw]

the graphite upper deck lightens up the car alot and the CVDs run smoother, and the super chassis is lighter.

i dont know whats so special about the racer tank, specially since it has no primer.

[Kenny T]

What's special is, it doesn't have a primer. Less chance of an airleak in the tank.

Do the CVD's really make a big difference. I've never ran my car with dogbones. Now that I come to think of it, the only car I have/had without universals/CVD's is my TA02.

[trw]

well if you have the SS tank you wont have to worry about air leaks.

i had tons of issues with the stock dogbones, one side was tighter then the other, then i would take out an O-ring then it would be looser then the other side, just headaches...CVDs cured that.

[josh222]

well after christmas this year i should have the graphite tower CVD's and a ball diff or 2

[rs4lola]

upgrades on my r34-3ss...

Engine:
- NovaRossi RR12L3 (1.54hp @ 40800rpm)
- RD Logics 1 piece turbo pipe
- Ofna pipe coupler (increases torque)
- Wolfpack adjustable engine mounts

Drivetrain:
- Wolfpack heavy duty 2-speed transmission
- NTC3 alum flywheel
- NTC3 3-shoe cluth with stiff springs
- HotBodies centax clutch (not installed..yet)
- HPI 41/37 spurs, 18,23 pinions
- MIP cvd all around
- Wolfpack 1/8 front foam wheel adaptors
- HPI rear ball diff
- HPI front solid axle (converted ball diff)
- Acer Racing ceramic ballbearings

Suspension
- HPI graphite arms all around
- HPI graphite front hubs/sterring knuckle
- HPI threaded aluminum shocks
- HPI proceed springs (all combos)
- HPI front sway bar (purple...useless!!!)
- HPI ss hinge pins
- HPI titanium turnbuckle
- 4 no-name 4x8 ball bearings for steering
- Hardcore Titanium screws(used in suspension only)
- Kyosho aluminum flanged ball
- HPI heavy duty rod ends

Chassis:
- HPI super chassis (3mm and lighter than std)
- HPI woven graphite upper deck
- HPI woven graphite front shock tower
- HotBodies woven graphite rear shock tower
- HotBodies alum center gear carrier
- Kyosho mp6 steel brake disk/hard pads
- RCScrewz Stainless steel screws

send in pictures once I get my digital camera...

[Jetskiboy77]

Does that pipe coupler actually work? Hows the ball diff and solid diff? Mainly though hows the ball diff? And thats a beautiful list, get picks ASAP.

[trw]

im wondering about the centax clutch, like why are they so expensive?

but mainly, is it a direct drop in? do you have to get a new clutch bell to put your pinions on? how good is it compared to a conventional clutch?

[Turbo B]

i feel so poor cause my car is so slow!!!!!!!

[Jetskiboy77]

I like it a lot, its much nicer than the stock clutch. It was expensive especially compared to other cars where its 70$ plus. For our RS4 3, its only 36$ and its a direct drop in, if you have the mounts from Hot Bodies and the centax clutch from Hot Bodies, it fits right in, you are also going to need a engine with a SG shaft. I think it was well worth the 56$ from R/C Boyz.

[josh222]

with the centax cluth you need a SG crank, a centax clutch is kinda like what is in a real car/truck

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah it is, its an awesome part to have.

[josh222]

ya i am gona get one when i do my engine upgrade, when ever that is :(

[oachalon]

Wow that 12ss motor is a pain to start in the beginning. That motor has a lot of compression. I might finish break in tomorrow if i have time.

[josh222]

I found minw way a bit hard to start, you should heat it up with a blow dryer first really helps

[Jetskiboy77]

lol thats funny you guys say it has too much compression, and mine has absoulty none, none at all, its done. And Turbo your car will get there eventually, the SS isnt hard to make fast.

[oachalon]

yeah i did heat it up with a blow dryer at first. Did help some. Its almost like my fantom fr18 when i first got it. That thing had so much compression. Anyhow the pullstart on the hpi isnt that good. I already broke it. The spring snapped inside it so i got a new one. Hobbytown wanted $18 for it. You think hpi will cover the broken one it would be nice to have an extra one.

[F150RTR]

ok guys, today is the first time i run my new HPI RS4 3 RTR , i broke in the engine just as per the manual. My question is there is a section about fine tuning it and adjusting the fuel ie if its rich or lean. Do i have to do this part since when i ran it, it drove perfectly, the idle is great and i can see that famous white smoke coming out of a turn at full throttle.

So do i have to fine tune it or is it ok??

thanks

[Jetskiboy77]

Dont let it run too cold though, thats almost as bad as running too hot, if your at a good temperature, then leave it.


The HPI pullstarts are crap. I think that on my .12R SS I broke about 7 pullstarts. No joke 7. I just retired that engine and had it sitting as a paper weight, and was playing around with it and wanted to check compression for the fun of it, pulled the pull start and guess what, it broke. Piece or garbarge, thank god for my starter box now.

[rs4lola]

Does that pipe coupler actually work? Hows the ball diff and solid diff? Mainly though hows the ball diff? And thats a beautiful list, get picks ASAP.
yes, the coupler seems to work. Engine has lots of torque and beats my other engine: OS .18 cvr!!!
The rear ball diff is great. No too tight and extremely smooth. No more wheelspin. The front solid diff is amazing!!! I can now turn the car on a dime as I have lots of power on steering. This setup is really made for tight parking lots with lots of turns. Car would be too twitchy for high speed, smooth tracks. Turns very quickly with controllable oversteer. I can tune the rear end more now with the ball diff and camber links. I made the solid diff by not putting in diff balls and using thin cardboard cut-outs instead of the diff rings. Assemble diff per instructions with the rest of the parts and tighten as much as you can. It still slips alittle but works great. I guess it's an almost solid front diff!!!
I have not installed the centax clutch yet. Do not have a digital caliper as the measurements seem very exact. I did buy an r40 clutch bell and it fits!!!
This hotbodies clutch looks almost identical to the r40 clutch too. If this works, then I would suggest using the r40 clutch as the 1M type pinions gears will work with the Rs4-3 spur gears. With the adjustable engine mounts and super chassis, I can move the engine as close/away as much as I want.
yeah...I think i have gone too far with the upgrades but am having a good time. Next upgrades are outlaw size foams and upgraded electronics.
Now if only I could drive better!!!

[Turbo B]

my os wouldnt start in the cold id have to take it in side the house and then start it up and run outside and drive for like 10 mins and do it all ova again

[josh222]

MY .12R SS is fried aswell, it is taking on the life of a paper weight for now :D might rebuild it some time. I am getting a used Velocity 15 of my friend. It is not even broken in yet :D it will be a good temperary engine untill i get a good one :)

[oachalon]

alright my .12r ss motor has eaten 3 glow plugs in the matter of 5 minutes. One was the one that came with it and the other 2 were used ones i took from my revo and t-maxx. I need to go buy some more glow plugs soon so i can finish break in. What glow plug works best in that motor and doesnt get eaten.

[josh222]

I run Mccoy MC59, Mine has lasted over a gallon and is running strong

[Jetskiboy77]

lol, I think I used the same plug for all 5 gallons I put through that engine. I may have changed it once or twice, but thats a maybe. I have good luck with glow plugs.

Josh- Mine has taken the job of being a space taker in my draw next to all the other parts and tools I have. I am going to rebuild it, not now though, but I will do it, it was a great little engine.

[F150RTR]

Guys is there a cheaper alternative to Foam air filter oil ( you know the oil you soak the air filter foam with after you clean it), because a tiny small bottle is costly in respect to its size? I have heard that real cars transmision oil will do also?

[T-EVO RACER]

Do they make a carbon fiber or graphite electronics section for the rs4 3 evo? And does it lower cg any more?

[jerseyevo]

Guys is there a cheaper alternative to Foam air filter oil ( you know the oil you soak the air filter foam with after you clean it), because a tiny small bottle is costly in respect to its size? I have heard that real cars transmision oil will do also?
you can use marvel mystery oil,3 in 1 oil or after run oil for your airfilter.

[Jetskiboy77]

T EVO RACER-- HPI Graphite Upperdeck (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=64246&clist=0,11321,11322,13342)

I paid almost 50$ for the Hot Bodies one about 2 years ago, and it was worth every dollar. The HPI one from R/C Boyz is only 25$, and it makes the car much more rigid and solid.

[josh222]

ya it is good, I have a plan now, I am going to get a FM radio and a Fantom SG rear exhaust engine and stop upgrading for now and in the summer i want to go to a local track and race so I going to get a R40 and take the good radio and engine and I WILL still use the SS a lot i would use the R40 only at the track

[josh222]

mostly so my friend with the AE car will be pissed off :D

[Kenny T]

I used to have a R40. They're nice cars but for my purpose(bashing, occasional racing) the RS4 3 was better. BTW what's Krasi_5000(you're friend isn't it) running in his NTC3? Sirio wasn't it?

[josh222]

Yes he has a NTc3 and it only has a OS TR. now that he can drive we will go to a track about 30mins away and it is a really strick offical place thats why i want a R40 witha MT12 or the new Fantom and a 3 chanel Fm radio

[T-EVO RACER]

Thanks jetskyboy for the info on the carbon fiber upper deck, does it lower cg on the car?

[josh222]

IT does a little bit, mostly from the plat reciever pack you are sapost to use

[T-EVO RACER]

Ok, thankx!

[josh222]

you will like it

[Jetskiboy77]

Why dont you just save the money instead of buying an R40, and upgrade your SS to full racing specs? Thats what I did, and my SS is a damn good performer at the track.

[T-EVO RACER]

Cause R40's are good at the track (but nowwhere else). it's like this

modified R40=modified revo
modified RS4=stock tmaxx

The reason I modified my rs43 evo was because 1.broken MUGEN in the garage that was unfixable and its just my fun car, nothin' like my competition tmaxx.

25 bucks for the upper deck of the rs4, ok, I'll get it.

[josh222]

well it will be cheaper and the R40 has some advantages on the track, like the belt has no torque steer, pivit ball suspention, tons-0-graphite, and it can handle huge powerfull engines with out mods. Plus i want the RACE car factor, I want a belt driven racer and the R40 will do good. I know the SS can be a good racer but it will be cheaper in the long run for a R40

[fastharry]

Thanks jetskyboy for the info on the carbon fiber upper deck, does it lower cg on the car?


the upper deck mod on my SS gave the car a better feel.......And as long as you don't overpower the car,it would be fine for club running...even against pro cars.....though my r40's are still way faster on a bigger track..the problem is the SS and Evo's cost to much to upgrade..better with a bone stock R40....

BTW,If I decide not to convert my EVO 3 to a drift car,anyone interested in buying my nitro evo3 rtr?..The car won the NY HPI Challenge.....and I put into the A main at the HPI worlds in England...and thats all its been run....

[josh222]

I would say convert it to a drifter, get that chassi for it and get a centax clutch

[T-EVO RACER]

Well, I'm putting an outlaw sts .12 5 portn in my evo with stock tranny. The upper I'll get just to give a better feel and look better. My evos just a mess around car, now my tmaxx (t-evo) is my true hearted race truck.

[josh222]

sounds good

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh, do you really have torque steer? I have none at all, with my car I can get on the gas quick and hard and its still as straight as an arrow. The Carbon upperdeck can also lower the radio parts a little more into the chassis depending on how you mount it, and it definately gives the car a much better and sturdier platform.

[Turbo B]

fastharry i mite not want the whole car but maybe a few parts let me know what you got and im from nyc also

[trw]

yea, I get no torque steer either.

[T-EVO RACER]

Niether did I with my t-15, I'll see if I get none with the sts .12. The carbon fiber deck maybe a christmas present or something cause I gotta keep my money on hand for my truck. So I'll make a flat five fit in my stock electronics side.

[Jetskiboy77]

The upperdeck will be a good Christmas present. :)

[azizhousecallz]

i had to get a replacement glow plug so my local hobby shop sold me some traxxas 3230 long hot plugs. my car runs hot and then shuts down. I have a rs4 3 evo rtr. i have to wait about 5 minutes to restart car. when i looked in my manual the standard glow plug is a 1504 COLD R5. now i checked the needle settings and made adjustments but no matter what i do the end results are the same. SHUT DOWN!!! can you run a hot plug in this car when the factory sets a cold plug? im still using the 20% fuel and it runs well on this fuel but is there anything else besides this glowplug issue that could be causing this problem? :confused:

[Turbo B]

question what do you guys think bout the hotbodies 18?? im gettin it for a trade and it would it be a good motor to put on the car or does the motor suck?? and also it seem like when i gas the car it sits there for about a sec and den takes off what would cause this?

[oachalon]

I have a question for you guys. The 12r ss seems to be a pretty good motor. Doesnt have a ton of low end torque wouldnt expect to since it is a .12. Anyhow i am probably going to get a new engine for my traxxas revo so i was wondering can i put my 2.5r in my rs4 3 ss. Will it work?

[Turbo B]

sum1 plz let me if that hotbodies 18 is any good plz

[josh222]

i wouldn't get it, it is an ABN engine just like the .15FE, wont last super long

[Turbo B]

well its jus for the winter and in the summer im puttin my rb bac on but it the hot bodies would be faster then the os max12 cv and im givin the kid an os max blown and an xtm i cants and a mip racin clutch

[josh222]

i would say that hot bodies make about 1hp

[Turbo B]

yea thats what they say but have u seen a fast car with thye hot boddies?

[josh222]

no i haven't seen a fast car with it

[Turbo B]

damn well would u neva make the trade den? keep in mind im jus usin it for the winter and it cost me nuffin jus an xtm motor i cant use and a flywheel and a clutch i had layin around

[josh222]

how much are you paying? if it is dirt cheap go a head, maybe you could even cut some of the fins off if it is gona be a strick winter basher

[Turbo B]

im not even any money jus a motor i cant use and a flywheel and sum unless stuff but noo money lol

[josh222]

could you rewrite that, i can't understand it :p

[Turbo B]

lol sowwi i was cleanin my car up and typing.. but i was sayin the motor will not cost me any money.. im giving the kid my xtm motor that i cant use.. and a few other things i dont really care fore so the motor is like free i guess

[josh222]

sounds good

[T-EVO RACER]

Yeah go ahead, speaking of motors, what would a t-15 with a gallon threw be worth and a trx pro .15 that has 4 break in tanks threw be worth?

[josh222]

the t-15 probaly 40bucks

[Turbo B]

well ill have it on the car tommrow after class so by 7 ill to sure to tell you cars how she runs and as soon as it gets warmer im puttin bac on the rb

but what does the abc thing have to do with a motor not being a strong motor??

[josh222]

sounds good, i run mine all year with the same engine

[Turbo B]

what motor you runnin?

[josh222]

i was running my .12r SS but it is dead, now i am getting a Velocity off a friend

[Turbo B]

o ok but my question bout the abc thing still stands whats wrong with them

[josh222]

ABC- aluminum brass crome ABN Aluminum Brass Nickle ABC is harder than ABn so it lasts longer

[Turbo B]

u say longer the motor will be set alil on the rich side and after run after i use it so if i can take care of it it should be jus find

[Jetskiboy77]

The materials in an ABC enigne are just far superior to those in an ABN, its the metals that are used, theyre better suited to this type of application.

[oachalon]

Actually my better question is can i run my fantom fr18 engine in my rs4 3 ss if i do the setup for slide carb and get the header for rear exhaust. Would it bolt right up. Also could i keep the pullstart because im not going to go buy a bump start.

[trw]

you wont be able to use pullstart with a rear exhaust engine, but other then that it should slide in pretty good.

[T-EVO RACER]

Bump starting is the best though,put the igniter on push down and your motor's started.

[oachalon]

yeah i know bump starting is nice but i dont have the money for bump start. So the rear exhaust and pullstart wont fit. I wonder if i can figure something out to have both. Hmm. Ill give it a try over the thanksgiving break.

[josh222]

oyu should be able to use a pull start if you use a T-maxx header and pipe

[josh222]

I am probaly gona get a MX3 radio soon

[KronicRacer]

ummm you can use the pullstart. fantom fr12 03 rear exhaust motors have them equipped from factory in addition to the non pullstart versions. i had one that i converted to non pull. and dont forget hpi has a rear exhaust header for the nitro three like mentioned. there is no reason why it should not fit.

[josh222]

it will work but it doesn't mater for me i have a box for a 1/8th so any .12 will be no match to the box :D

[Jetskiboy77]

Rear exhaust engines most definatley fit into the RS4 3, I have pics to prove it. As for the rear exhaust and pullstart combo, I dont see why it wouldnt fit. I have a rear exhaust pullstart in my NMT, as long as the pullstart is small and compact and it fits under the header, it will go in.

[josh222]

When i get my Fantom I am not getting a pull start

[T-EVO RACER]

Hpi makes a rear exhaust header for the rs4, I know I use one on my sts .12.

[josh222]

ya or RD logics makes a one piece header/pipe

[Jetskiboy77]

Which I so badly need. I use the HPI header for a 2 piece pipe I run, it gets the job run great, but im so used to one piece pipes, I need to go back.

[josh222]

they look so nice

[Turbo B]

i got 1 mine it the rd best 60 bucks i put on the car.. i got the hotbodies on the car but didnt get to run it started to rain as soon as i added gas..but hey always tommrow..stil waitin for my upper deck to come in

[F150RTR]

Hi everyone, i currently have the HPI RS4 3 RTR F150 which comes with the 15FE engine. What other size engine (more powerful) can i install on this car that will work with the rest of my parts and will not have clearance issues. Also whatever engine you recommed please also name the maker, or does it only work with HPI engines?

thanks

[Jetskiboy77]

OS 18 CVR to name one, probably one of the most powerful engines youll fit in there with no mods, and maybe the new OS, not sure if it fits, but that is the strongest small block (thats what RCCA called it, I dunno if I really consider it a small block the way a .12 is) you will get in there. I like the HPI .12R XS, some people hate on it, itll be a good engine to you though. Basacially any OS CVR, and some other people will name some other good picks, I need to go to sleep.

[F150RTR]

where can i find the OS 18 CVR engine, any website?

thanks

[Jetskiboy77]

OS .18CVR (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP4&P=0)

OS .18 CVRX (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP6&P=0)

There are versions of this engine that come with different carbs too, check Tower. X means pullstart btw.

[josh222]

There is also the OS.18TZ that makes 2.2hp :D :eek: it isn't out yet

[Turbo B]

2.2 ha now wouldnt that kill the gears but anyway when should the tz be out and put a link so i can read about the motor

[josh222]

here you go, i meant to say 2+HP :D http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=180927&page=1&pp=25

[oachalon]

well i tried to put my fantom fr18 in my rs4 3 ss today. Wont work. The hole on the flywheel where it slides into the shaft from the rs4 is too small to go on the shaft on the fr18 so then i have to use the flywheel off the t-maxx. If i use the flywheel from the t-maxx the holes wont line up for the clutchbell and the spur gears to work out with each other. My choice is either get a new motor mount that would work or get a new flywheel that would work and have everything line up. Right now it isnt going to work. Time to put the fr18 back in the t-maxx. Maybe ill do that tomorrow. Im gonna go drive my revo right now only car thats not in pieces at this moment in time.

[F150RTR]

So the OS 18 CVR or CVRX is a direct replacement ie. i wont run into fitment problems?
Also is it a side exhaust or rear?
Last question, iam assuming since the CVR is without a pull starter then it requires a rotostarter similar to the one from HPI...correct me if iam wrong?


thank you

[Jetskiboy77]

It would need a starterbox, and yes no X means no pullstart. I am pretty sure it should drop right in because its still a .12 case dimensions, and I think its side exhaust, because all of the other CVR's are.

[F150RTR]

Whats the difference between the O.S. .18 CV-R (P) w/11G Slide-Valve Carb and the O.S. .18 CV-R w/11J Rotary Carb ?
And which one should i get (why)?

thanks

[trw]

actually no, the 18 CVRs are not .12 sized engines, the Epic .18 is a bored out .12, the OS .18s are true 18s.

CVRX = pullstart
CVR = no pullstart

the CVRX with pullstart you will run into a smaaall fiting problem with the pullstart, the corner of the rear differential will need to be trimmed with a dremmel and then it should slide in.

its really hard to say which carb is better,

rotary carb you simply screw in a tiny linkage ball, then attatch your links, then walla.

slide carb you need some sorta linkage kit to set that up, atleast to my understanding.

the air path in a rotary is a little more awkward where in a slide carb the air path is more strait, but ive heard before the rotary has a more agressive throttle or something like that.

[josh222]

any .18 will do nice

[F150RTR]

The tower hobbies website also says that the one with the pullstart has a shorter shaft so will that make any difference installation/fitment wise?

[trw]

no, it shouldnt make a difference, if they do have different size shafts (which i didnt know they did..or might) the difference *should* be within the crankcase itself and not anything on the exterior.

although if your just judging by the pictures then dont, sometimes their pictures dont match the actual product.

[josh222]

the short shaft won't fit

[F150RTR]

well i went back on the tower hobbies website and i couldnt find where i read that, may be i read it in the OS engine instruction manual on their website...........damn i cant remeber :(

[trw]

lol nvm disregard what i previously posted, I went back and had a look for myself, yea the short shaft wont fit, get the longer one.

get this if your going with pullstart:

OS 18 CVRX rotary carb (threaded shaft) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=ML)
OS 18 CVRX slide valve carb (threaded shaft) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP6&P=ML)

without pullstart:
OS 18 CVR rotary carb (threaded shaft) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP5&P=ML)
OS 18 CVR slide valve carb (SG Shaft) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP4&P=ML)

for some reason, the slide valve carb without pullstart is SG shaft and not threaded, dont know why though.

[F150RTR]

Ok i found it, it was on tower hobbies website, its the
O.S. .18 CV-RX (S) w/11J Rotary Carb which is for Traxxas not for the HPI RS4 3 RTR.

[F150RTR]

I think i will go for the rotary carb, as you said trw i can just reuse the tiny linkage ball and iam all set.

[josh222]

ya thats the one that won't fit

[F150RTR]

now i have to decide whether to go with pullstart or not.
Which on do you guys prefer?

[josh222]

I like N/P , the engine has a bit more power because of less drag

[Jetskiboy77]

I use to really like pullstart, but I am in LOVE with starter boxes. True it may cost a pretty penny for a nice box, but from now on you can buy non-pullstart engines and its almost 20$ cheaper. I also like the ease of the starter box, and that when you start it, it cant run away, because its not on the ground. Its just a little extra insurance, incase your batts die or you didnt turn something on, its not goin anywhere, cause its not on the floor. I still like pullstart, but not nearly as much as a Starter Box.

[oachalon]

Do you guys know what i need to get my fantom fr18 to work. Is there a certain flywheel or maybe motor mount that will have the engine lined up properly. The rear exhaust and pullstart clear with no problems just the motor needs to be moved back or the clutchbell pushed forward and spacing wont do it.

[KronicRacer]

you need adjustable motor mounts. search for them on www.wolfpackradicals.com

[KronicRacer]

i personally like the non pullstart due to less stuff to break and pullstarts will break faster than a starterbox :)

[oachalon]

I dont think the adjustable motor mounts are worth it. Oh well.

[Jetskiboy77]

Another reason is also the lighter weight and less of a cramp behind the engine where a lot of dirt collects, making it hard to clean with a pullstart. Very, very good point btw KronicRacer, I think I broke 5 or 6 pullstarts on the stock .12R SS engine, now that I have the box, theres no pullstarts to break a spring.

[trw]

HPIs pullstarts suck, im a pullstart fan because I bash and race, the OS pullstarts are far more durable and really nice, stick in the glow igniter, pull once, pull twice and go.

[KronicRacer]

Another reason is also the lighter weight and less of a cramp behind the engine where a lot of dirt collects, making it hard to clean with a pullstart. Very, very good point btw KronicRacer, I think I broke 5 or 6 pullstarts on the stock .12R SS engine, now that I have the box, theres no pullstarts to break a spring.
didnt help that 12r ss is one of the toughest motors to break in :D . its not pullstart friendly. i like the fantom pullstarts since they are smaller than most and are very strong.

[josh222]

mine broke second pull :p There is also the part where the engine can sit lower and lower the cg of the car :)

[Turbo B]

well with my os the pullstart neva gave me any problems.. ok as of last nite i got to run the car with the hotbodies 18.. the car does seem to have a betta "take off" but i havnt hit 2nd gear yet.. i have the 2speed set the same as when i had the os 12 cv on it.. would that be fine or should i fix that? and do you think i could fit the os max pistion in the hotbodie case or whateva ud call it.. i want people to think im runnin a hot bodies motor.. reason jus so people think its slow so does anyone think dat would work?

[T-EVO RACER]

I still got the roto start on my t-15. But the sts motors don't pull starts!

[Jetskiboy77]

well with my os the pullstart neva gave me any problems.. ok as of last nite i got to run the car with the hotbodies 18.. the car does seem to have a betta "take off" but i havnt hit 2nd gear yet.. i have the 2speed set the same as when i had the os 12 cv on it.. would that be fine or should i fix that? and do you think i could fit the os max pistion in the hotbodie case or whateva ud call it.. i want people to think im runnin a hot bodies motor.. reason jus so people think its slow so does anyone think dat would work?
I doubt it, you may get lucky though, but usually engines sleeves dont fit in other engines, its very rare, I personally dont know of any engines that you can do that with except the Hyper 8 Port And Hyper 4 Port, but thats not a real example. Forget what other people think.

[Jetskiboy77]

didnt help that 12r ss is one of the toughest motors to break in :D . its not pullstart friendly. i like the fantom pullstarts since they are smaller than most and are very strong.


lol, thats the funny part, mine didnt really start breakin untill much later after break in. Maybe one or two broke in the beginning, but after break in thats when the majority of them broke. I know how to pull a pullstart so no lectures, this is the only engine I have ever broke a pullstart without of the 7 engines I have owned. It wasnt my fault, so no "maybe you did this wrong" stuff.

[Deznuts05]

well I have maybe one of the first RTR3... bashed with it for a bit until the motor died on me after 5 tanks of gas... Not only that it was a pain to turn over. At first the compression was rock solid then after the second tank I thought I was getting better at turning her over turns out that she was just on her way out the door... well now I think its 3yrs later I'm rebuilding it in consideration of selling her but I'm a bit crossed... I do want to race her this coming summer but I understand that she's not the best at racing but do able.

So should I keep her and make her do-able or fix her up and sell her?

If I sell her with everything but a radio with extra parts 2x front arms, 2x steering blocks, and other misc. parts with a brand new FE motor fresh from HPI. How much do you think I could get for her?

Now, if I decide to keep her how to make her handle like a NTC3? I'm not into purple or blue aluiminium parts I'm just in for racing nothing flashy just down right purpose.
Also, unlike AE's site HPI is lacking on race proven Setup Sheets... would anyone know how to set this thing up?
And, l'd like to keep her on a budget just like to get her reliable and raceable for once a week racing.
Lastly, what is the best way in breaking in this FE motor? Like I've broke'n a t-maxx without a hitch what's the best way for this FE? I'm sure I read it some where but I'm looking for something better than what was set out before... remember 5 tanks of fuel... and I didn't get to use her till the 3rd tank.

Thanks!
Rudy

[trw]

HPI does have setup sheets, they are just buried and you have to go into their forums and find the topic on them.

I would keep the RS4 3 and make it a fixer upper since it handles better then a NTC3, (I would imagine) due to a center placed transmission, and if you are going to race, go ahead and dump the FE engine and get something more suitable depending on your budget.

if it doesnt have a 2-speed then make that the first thing to get.

[josh222]

keep it, one question di you break the engine in or did you just start driving?

[F150RTR]

Thats what i plan on getting, a 2 speed trans for my RS4 3 RTR and the OS 18 CVR engine.

how fast do you think it would go with these mods?
also what do you guys recommend for handiling and stability?.........or lets say up to what type of performance can the stock suspension handle?
Is there away to adjust the stock front suspension(i want the car a bit higher in the front) on the RS4 3 RTR, the reason being is because i think its a bit low in the front and it keeps on scraping the pavement alot!

I am new here so when you list parts with names i sometimes have no clue what you are talking about unless its obvious so linking pictures or websites with pictures is very greatful.

Thank you and sorry for the long post.

[josh222]

well with the stock gears with the 2-speed and a cvr18 55-60mph roughly

[trw]

if your car doesnt have adjustable turnbuckles....get them.

to make the front higher, simply add more C-clips to your shocks, although that will stiffen up the ride.

[josh222]

you can also move the shock more vertical to raise the hight a bit

[F150RTR]

thx guys you are amazing, i just moved it to a more vertical position as you suggested and it did lift up the front end right where i need it. :)

[F150RTR]

guys iam getting a 2 speed for my RS4 3 RTR, which one would fit , i found three types on the HPI website

HPIA910 2 Speed Transmission For Nitro RS4
HPI86038 2 Speed Transmission (RTR 3)
HPI72516 2 Speed Transmission Heavy Duty (Nitro RS4)

which would you suggest?
thx

[trw]

they all should fit (atleast to my understanding), the heavy duty one has extra strength for rally purposes or to use with engines that have monsterous power, otherwise either one of the regular ones should suit you well.

[Deznuts05]

HPI does have setup sheets, they are just buried and you have to go into their forums and find the topic on them.

I would keep the RS4 3 and make it a fixer upper since it handles better then a NTC3, (I would imagine) due to a center placed transmission, and if you are going to race, go ahead and dump the FE engine and get something more suitable depending on your budget.

if it doesnt have a 2-speed then make that the first thing to get.

Topic? Have any leads as to what topics I should search? I've exhausted all I know. Any tips would help.

You say dump the FE... I already bought it for $50 I guess selling it wouldn't be an option... What would you recogmend as a newbie friendly/race worthy motor? the track that I race at is very short.

I just bought a 2-speed tranny from ebay... would the FE be worth trying it? And what gears should I get? I read somewhere that I should get a Yellow 1st Gear and a Red 2nd. Is that the ticket for a short track?

keep it, one question di you break the engine in or did you just start driving?

I broke it in on a rubber block, for about 3 tanks. Then I started my bashing... nothing crazzy I kept it in the rich setting just so I wouldn't blow it... well it didn't blow until I changed the plug (5th tank) then Bam... Saddness all around. But I'm goin to try it again since there's a stong support in my area. Thanks!

[trw]

for setup sheets, go to www.hpiracing.com then go to "instructions" then click on "setup sheets"

the FE engine is a really weak engine, i dont know if it will even be able to pull into 2nd lol

for short tracks, its best to use gold on gold, I dont think gold on red would fit the spurs anyways, atleast not the stock ones.

and for an engine, well what is your budget? cause there is all kinds of engine out there.

[Deznuts05]

for setup sheets, go to www.hpiracing.com then go to "instructions" then click on "setup sheets"

the FE engine is a really weak engine, i dont know if it will even be able to pull into 2nd lol

for short tracks, its best to use gold on gold, I dont think gold on red would fit the spurs anyways, atleast not the stock ones.

and for an engine, well what is your budget? cause there is all kinds of engine out there.

Did that there's only one setup... kinda week well one setup sheet for the RTR3... :rolleyes:

gold and gold? do you mean yellow? I didn't see a gold gear. Let me check Tower.

My budget well... I'd like to keep it from 150 but my main point is that I'll spend the cash if I get the same quality that I got out of my t-maxx... like I totally neglected it this past summer but before this summer it would turn over everytime... And even with the neglect that I've shown the T-maxx it still turns on like nothings gone without a wink... I'm really looking for Reliablity first and then performance next then I guess cost is a factor... I just want to keep it cheep... I guess I'll be need a start box too so my same standards are for the starter box... Any ideas? also I see that your online here's my AIM SubieOwner01 if you want to talk there instead of posting here.

thanks!

[trw]

dont have AIM.

yea there is gold, cause I bought some gold pinions myself lol.

well if you want bang for your buck, reliability AND power, consider the OS .18 CVR at towers, its $120.00 on towers without pullstart, and the engine carries 1.6hp

[trw]

oh and here are the pinions I was talking about....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000431073&I=LXDHM0&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000431073&I=LXDHM3&P=K

[Deznuts05]

Thanks... would you like to share your setup? like where to place the springs, oil, camber? and what not...

also how tight is your front diff? also I had a one-way in my TC3 and it was nuts as to how fast it turns... I personally didn't like it but is a one-way a one-way the same no matter the car?

[Deznuts05]

ok so just replace the pinions and keep the spur gears?

[trw]

I dunno, dont use a one-way.

for shocks, I use HPI's super non-threaded shock set:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM468&P=Z

the stock ones will do just fine, I just bought those for the better looks :D

for front springs, I use HPI red Pro Linears:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB77&P=7

for rear springs, I use HPI 1.4mm whites:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN170&P=7

my camber is strait, I dont use any toe-in or out.

and I have HPI's sway bar set, and I run 1 red bar on the front and no sway bar on the rear (makes steering sharper)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM521&P=7

my tires are desperatly needing to be changed, right now I use HPI Belted Radial X-appterns which work extremly well for street use, but for racing they fall short, Ill prolly change to some HPI Pro Belted Slicks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000431073&I=LXM971&P=K) and use some Paragon tire sauce with it: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT08&P=ML

on assphault, those slicks with that tire sauce should give out insane grip
For smooth pavement, use HPI Belted Radial X-patterns

or you can use foams if you want to.

and those two gold pinions will fit the stock spurs.

[Deznuts05]

I just noticed that they are two diffrent gears... I need both 17t and 21t? How about the spur gears? should I keep what they give me? thanks!

[trw]

yes lol, the 2-speed consists of 2 pinions and 2 spurs.

if the spur gears that come with it are 43 tooth and 47 tooth, then yes keep those and use em.

[Turbo B]

ive never seen anyone use the gold 1st gear pinions and an red for 2nd gear.. i heard the red for both works the best..i also have the stock spur gears with the red pinion gears..

[Deznuts05]

what ever happened to the OS 12 tr engine? why did they discontinue it? and 120 sounds like a great price are there other motors in that rage, compaired to the OS 18 CVR engine? thanks!

[Kenny T]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM5&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM7&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM6&P=ML

There's the 12 TR's with the different components. They still exist although I'm surprised as to why Tower says the 12 TR R-Spec is discontinued.

If you are going to race, go down to your track to see what the guys are running. What I'm planning to do is run in pull start class where the competition is still good and the price stays down. I'm going to get either an OS 12 CV-RX or Fantom FR12 RE with PS instead of a JP NS12S3 like everyone in the open class. Keeps the costs down while still having the opportunity to win. :)

[josh222]

no problem :)

[T-EVO RACER]

Awwhh, man, my local on road coarse only races open 1/10 sedan, andopen 1/8 scale, no seperate classes are anything, oh well, I'll have to race against 1,000 dollar cars and 400 dollar motors!!! BTW!!The stock evo gearing is for open places,cause on my mugen it has more acceleration gearing, so on my evo I mixed them, the sts pinions are, I forgot, but the spur gears are the same, 49-43, so now my evo has more punch than stock gearing along with the motor!!

[josh222]

HPI Colour codes there pinions, Red with red, yellow with yellow, the pinion and spur add up to 65, the is 4tooth diff in the pinions and spurs, ex ample

18tooth pinion first, 18+4=22

[Deznuts05]

"the is 4tooth diff in the pinions and spurs" ??? huh?

Anyways what is a dirt cheep Starter box that is durable? Something that I can drop a few times and it will still work? Also is it possible to get something under $50 and have the same qualities?

Also, I've seen this header and exhaust recomended on this forum Click here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=ML). But has anyone tried this RDlogics SS TURBO II 1 Piece Side Exhaust Pipe (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5935507560&ssPageName=ADME:B:BN:US:1)?

I'm thinking of getting it and using it on th FE until the FE blows up... 100 for motor and tuned pipe why not try it right? I'll eventually sell the pipe once the FE kicks the bucket (from my expreience won't be long, but its worth a try if this motor is a step above my last FE motro.)

Thanks

[josh222]

ok i will make it easier

stock 2-speed gears..........
pinions 18/22
spurs 47/43

notice there is a 4 tooth difference bettwen each pinion ans each spur

when you change gears you have to keep than differnce the same
Also new gears should add up to 65 so that there is enough room for the engene to fit right

I wouldn't go cheap on a box get a nice quality one, it will be worth it in the long run, i got a Ofna 1/8th box with the crome top.

TRW has that pipe and it is very nice the one i saw was very good quality

[Deznuts05]

ok i will make it easier
when you change gears you have to keep than differnce the same
Also new gears should add up to 65 so that there is enough room for the engene to fit right

TRW has that pipe and it is very nice the one i saw was very good quality

If I kept the diffrence the same; then what am I changing? Not to cause any friction with you but I'm currious... for instance if I went up by 4 teeth then that would mean that I am 4+ from stock which would then take me 4 teeth taller. Resolting that I want the motor to have more top end speed or spool time. Is that what you're getting at? But in my case I'd have to go lower because my track is short so I want 4- teeth.

I don't think I mentioned TRW do you have a link or a price of their pipe?

And another thing to add to my list of questions is, I noticed that the shock towers are really flexable. What is sturdy, light, and reasonably priced? Like before I'm not looking for Purple or Blue parts... totally functionality! But if it comes down to it I'll get it but I'd really like to get something that is cheep to replace in the case of an accident... mayby CF or Graphite? Is there such a product?
Thanks so much!

[trw]

Yea, I wouldnt sell that pipe. It runs extremly good, has a cool sound to.

although I paid $70 for mine off RD logic's site

[Deznuts05]

Well I'd keep it, if it can work on the next motor I get... I'm really dig'n the TR but we'll see

[Jetskiboy77]

Josh I think me and you have the same exact starterbox. Mine is also a chrome top from OFNA. Its an amazing starter box.

[Deznuts05]

How much should this ofna box go for?

[Jetskiboy77]

Ofna Starter Box (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD8&P=7) I got it from my hobby shop but I think it was the same price. You will need a batterty for this box also. I personally love it.

[pleaseletmeon34]

Well I'd keep it, if it can work on the next motor I get... I'm really dig'n the TR but we'll see

Still looking for a TR? Are you on the six foot tiger board?

[F150RTR]

Is there away to find out for sure is this trans will fit my HPI RS4 3 RTR
HPIA910 2 Speed Transmission For Nitro RS4 i found a new one for an excellent deal?

thx

[Jetskiboy77]

Why dont you just use the Stock 2 Speed (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTB6&P=7) or the Wolfpack 2 Speed (http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/shaft_2_speed.html). Can you get a link to the one your refering to in your previous post, I cant find it anywhere.

[josh222]

that box costs 74.99 on tower, a bit more but it will take any engine you can through at it :D

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=ML

[the-one1]

ok i will make it easier

stock 2-speed gears..........
pinions 18/22
spurs 47/43

notice there is a 4 tooth difference bettwen each pinion ans each spur

when you change gears you have to keep than differnce the same
Also new gears should add up to 65 so that there is enough room for the engene to fit right
quality

NOTE: The pinion teeth count does NOT matter, you can mix and match colored pinions, Only the spurs need to be 4 teeth apart. All the 1st gear pinions are the same diameter and 2nd are same diameter.
Thats the cool thing about them, other than that, it sucks cause they are made out of aluminum, which wears out unlike steel.

[josh222]

you have to keep every thing even, a 17/23 wouldn't work wit the stock spurs it would be on wierd angles, what ever the differnece in the pinions is it has to be on the spurs to, also if you add enough teeth you might have to makes the motor mount slots wider

[Deznuts05]

Still looking for a TR? Are you on the six foot tiger board?


Yes, I'm on the sixfoottiger board same name too.

[rs4lola]

you have to keep every thing even, a 17/23 wouldn't work wit the stock spurs it would be on wierd angles, what ever the differnece in the pinions is it has to be on the spurs to, also if you add enough teeth you might have to makes the motor mount slots wider sorry josh but if you go to the HPI website and look up the gear chart for rs4-3, you will see that the spur gear gap MUST be 4 teeth but you can use ANY combination of pinion gears e.g 41/37 - 1st gear pinion can be 17 or 18 or 19 and 2nd gear pinion can be 21 or 22 or 23. The smaller the spur, the closer the engine has to be mounted to the tranny. I have tried all the combos of pinions with the spurs set to 4 teeth gap. They all work fine as I have the Wolfpack adjustable engine mounts and did not strip ANY spur gears...

[Deznuts05]

oooh OH! I have an FE motor using the motor mounts that are build into the motor case.... will I have a problem? And what's the deal with motor mounts?? I'm not really dig'n the wolfpack because I can just see myself not making something tight enough and stripping gears.... is there a better alturnative or is the wolfpack moron proof?

thanks!

[pleaseletmeon34]

oooh OH! I have an FE motor using the motor mounts that are build into the motor case.... will I have a problem? And what's the deal with motor mounts?? I'm not really dig'n the wolfpack because I can just see myself not making something tight enough and stripping gears.... is there a better alturnative or is the wolfpack moron proof?

thanks!

If you change the engine to anything other than another FE you will need mounts and possibly a flywheel. I thought I saw the name before. I cant get on the six foot board at home or work. Have to go across the street to Burger King to view it... LOL I have a new TR I'm gonna let go. I'm gonna try to make it to the Belly swap meet.

[Deznuts05]

ahh I just placed a bid on ebay (mother of all my parts and misc.) but we'll see.. if I don't get it I'll be looking for you... are you goin to the belly tommrow... well later today around 10am? they are open at 10am to 6pm indoor tourning pratice.

[josh222]

if you ran a 16t first gear and 23secong how would the first gear touch? it would be on a angle like this to touch l \

[rs4lola]

if you ran a 16t first gear and 23secong how would the first gear touch? it would be on a angle like this to touch l \ You cannot run a first gear of 16T with a 23T second gear on an RS4-3 as described in the gear chart instructions on the HPI website. If you buy one of the threaded aluminum pinion gears, in the instructions is a description of valid spur/pinion combinations. First gear is 17,18,19 Second gear is 21,22,23. HPIO does not make a 16T threaded aluminum pinion gear for the RS4-3 as for as I know. They DO however make one for the R40 which is not directly compatible with the RS4-3. If in doubt, talk to someone at HPI...

[josh222]

HPI colour codes the pinions to make it easy

[the-one1]

I had a gear combo of 17/23 and 37/41, mad accel and fast top speed, but you need a strong motor to pull that off so you will get into 2nd gear before you run out of parking lot.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/76977-1.jpg
notice the writing all the way on the bottom, you can use any 1st gear pinion with any 2nd gear pinion.

[rs4lola]

How do I show a picture in a message??? :confused:

[F150RTR]

Will i need engine mounts to put the OS 18 CVR in the RS4 3 RTR in place of the 15E, or will it fit directly?

thanks

[TJNMT]

Your gonna need some mounts for that puppy.
I highly suggest you go with some adjustable wolfpack ones.
or go with some 5 bucks mounts off ebay.

[F150RTR]

do you have the link for the wolf ones?

thanks

[TJNMT]

http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/all_mounts.html

Go ahead and email him with what you plan to put in, and he is excellent with replying back. Great person to deal with.

[josh222]

that pic proves my point, if you want to run a 17t first you have to run a 21 second, the pinions are matched up with there counter parts

[the-one1]

http://www.the-one1.sytes.net/RC/rs4%20gears.JPG

[F150RTR]

thanks for the reply TJNMT

[rs4lola]

that pic proves my point, if you want to run a 17t first you have to run a 21 second, the pinions are matched up with there counter parts Please read again at the bottom left of the picture in English:
You can use ANY 1st gear pinion with ANY 2nd gear pinion. The 17t can run with 21t OR 22t OR 23t, which is any of the second gear pinions. There is NO restriction to 4 teeth for the threaded pinion gears. I have run 17t first gear and 23t second gear and have not stripped any spurs. I have also run 18t first and 23t second, which is my current setup. The pinions are lined up for visual reasons only. But...
When I run a 3 teeth spur gap, I run 3 teeth gap on my pinions. Same with 5 teeth spur gap. The ONLY time I have stripped gears is when running a 6 teeth spur gap. I suggest you try the different combos before making strong assertions about what you can or cannot do when matching spur/gear combos

[F150RTR]

I now i have been asking alot of question regarding engines, i do apologize.

Will this engine the YOKOMO RX18 ENGINE with Pullstart fit in a RS4 3 RTR in place of the 15FE engine, i found a good deal on one and want to find out if it will fit or not.
What extras do i need?
Any reliability issues with Yokomo engines?
Whats the horsepower on the 18RX engine?

thank you

[Deznuts05]

Will i need engine mounts to put the OS 18 CVR in the RS4 3 RTR in place of the 15E, or will it fit directly?

thanks

ok... when you create a post there should be a little toolbar right above the writing space. On the 2nd row of tools (second row starts with the BOLD option) move your curser to where you see you mountain and a sun... click on that and its pretty straight forward from there.

hope that helps

[Turbo B]

ok well i still dont get the gearin yet.. i have the both the red pinion gears but i dont kno what would be a good set of spur gears.. the type of racing i do is drag.. the motor im runnin rite now is an 18 hotbodies.. so for the guy that have tested the spur gears out what would be my best bet for dragin

[Jetskiboy77]

Draging you should for for accleration gearing, so try the gears you have, and see what happens. Id go for the gearing with the most accleration and least wheelspin. How for do you drag, is it 132 feet?

[rs4lola]

ok well i still dont get the gearin yet.. i have the both the red pinion gears but i dont kno what would be a good set of spur gears.. the type of racing i do is drag.. the motor im runnin rite now is an 18 hotbodies.. so for the guy that have tested the spur gears out what would be my best bet for dragin For drag racing, keep the stock spurs that come with car (47 1st/ 43 2nd) and use 17t for 1st gear pinion(yellow/gold) and 21t for 2nd gear pinion(yellow/gold). Basically for acceleration you need to run the smallest pinion gears with the largest spur gears. For max speed, run the biggest pinion gears with the smallest spur gears. Yes, I tried all combos under 45t on my rs4-3ss and they do work good. To take advantage of the gearing changes, make sure you get most powerfull small block you can afford to buy. Power makes a huge difference to what you can do with this car. NovaRossi, RB, Sirio and OS are the engines I would recommend. Two upgrades for all out racing are from Wolfpack Radicals. Get his 2-speed tranny and the adjustable mounts. The 2-speed can handle more power and it shifts every time once it has been set properly unlike the crappy HPI tranny. :mad: The adjustable mounts allow you to install an sg crank engine and once set properly, you will not strip any gears. There are so many other upgrades to get, I wish HPI would truly have come out with a team/pro version as this car is great, ONCE you have all the upgrades. Maybe when(IF)
they release an rs4-4ss, we won't have to upgrade basic components like the tranny/engine mounts... :rolleyes:

[trw]

oo i will definitly look into buying a wolfpack radicals tranny, im with ya there when it comes to the stock tranny, often it just stops shifting, i have to re-adjust it before it'll shift again.

[F150RTR]

I now i have been asking alot of question regarding engines, i do apologize.

Will this engine the YOKOMO RX18 ENGINE with Pullstart fit in a RS4 3 RTR in place of the 15FE engine, i found a good deal on one and want to find out if it will fit or not.
What extras do i need?
Any reliability issues with Yokomo engines?
Whats the horsepower on the 18RX engine?

thank you

anyone?

[Jetskiboy77]

You may also want to look into getting the Centax Clutch.

[rs4lola]

ok... when you create a post there should be a little toolbar right above the writing space. On the 2nd row of tools (second row starts with the BOLD option) move your curser to where you see you mountain and a sun... click on that and its pretty straight forward from there.

hope that helps
hmm... its the straight forward part I am having trouble with. A dialog box pops up with "http://" highlited. What should I put there? The name of my file include the path??

[rs4lola]

here is a picture of my car...

[josh222]

that looks nice RS4Lola

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah it really is beautiful, Nice job. Howd you make the shock support from shock to shock?

[rs4lola]

Yeah it really is beautiful, Nice job. Howd you make the shock support from shock to shock?
The shock support is a standard part from HPI. Not for the rs4-3ss but some other car. Its aluminum and really helps to keep the shocks from squirming around. Do NOT get the HPI ball diffs if you have the heavy duty 13t final gear. My car ate the 38t final gear that comes with the ball diff. I think it is made out of aluminum or cheapo steel. Hit the gas and chewed thru them right away!!! Barely have a scratch on my heavy duty final gear. They maybe smooth but they definitely are NOT made for racing!!! Back to gear diffs and I am going to try the r40 solid axle and see if I can make it fit.
The body is too wide to put under a 200mm body. So i am going to try the narrower suspension arms as I want to run this next year with these 1/8 foams. The car now sticks like crazy glue on rails!!! (ok...exaggerating a little). Set the rear camber links to be angled down as much as possible and the rear end with these tires will not oversteer. No sway bar on rear with the purple sway bar on front. Car turns on a dime as these are 32shore, 37mm wide, 72mm tall PMT front 1/8 foams. Adaptors from Wolfpack Radicals not cheap but fantastic performance. If you get the OS .18tz, I highly recommend
you get these 1/8 foam tires as you are going to need them....
get some better pics next week...broke rear right suspension arm yesterday messing around. A yellow pole jumped out in front of my car!!!

[Silent Night]

would these arms fit the rs4 3??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVB89&P=7

If they dont is there any other place where i can get ones like it?

[MT2 owns you]

"These will fit the following vehicles:
RS4 Sport and Nitro RS4 (with HPIC2461), Nitro RS4 2, Nitro Racer,
RS4 Racer 2, and RTR Nitro RS4."
so it probly wont fit on ur rs4..cuz its not listed..

[the-one1]

It'll fit, the rs4's share all the same arms and hubs and whatnot.

[Jetskiboy77]

Im also pretty sure they will fit too, for the same reason as the-one1 said.

[Jetskiboy77]

The shock support is a standard part from HPI. Not for the rs4-3ss but some other car. Its aluminum and really helps to keep the shocks from squirming around. Do NOT get the HPI ball diffs if you have the heavy duty 13t final gear. My car ate the 38t final gear that comes with the ball diff. I think it is made out of aluminum or cheapo steel. Hit the gas and chewed thru them right away!!! Barely have a scratch on my heavy duty final gear. They maybe smooth but they definitely are NOT made for racing!!! Back to gear diffs and I am going to try the r40 solid axle and see if I can make it fit.
The body is too wide to put under a 200mm body. So i am going to try the narrower suspension arms as I want to run this next year with these 1/8 foams. The car now sticks like crazy glue on rails!!! (ok...exaggerating a little). Set the rear camber links to be angled down as much as possible and the rear end with these tires will not oversteer. No sway bar on rear with the purple sway bar on front. Car turns on a dime as these are 32shore, 37mm wide, 72mm tall PMT front 1/8 foams. Adaptors from Wolfpack Radicals not cheap but fantastic performance. If you get the OS .18tz, I highly recommend
you get these 1/8 foam tires as you are going to need them....
get some better pics next week...broke rear right suspension arm yesterday messing around. A yellow pole jumped out in front of my car!!!

Do you have a link or any info on where to get it from or what car its originally for and a price?

[josh222]

ya those arms should fit, You could also get Super nitro sized wheels.

[Turbo B]

lol i jus won a racer edge Chassis for 20 bucks is it any good??

[Turbo B]

any1 around 2dai

[KronicRacer]

racers edge is pretty good. what kinda metal did they use on the chassis?

[Turbo B]

Lightweight Aluminum the ad says

[T-EVO RACER]

I was thinkin' of getting that chassis.

[Turbo B]

it was only 20 bucks man cant go wrong i think like 30 bucks wit shippin