HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[Silent Night]

Do you have a link or any info on where to get it from or what car its originally for and a price?

http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/rim_adapters.html

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks but not those, I meant the shock to shock brace.

[rs4lola]

Thanks but not those, I meant the shock to shock brace.
I will have to ask my lhs. I was just looking amont the parts he had and guessed that I mite be able to use at as shock brace. Have no idea what part it is really used for.
I only use this beacuse i have the shocks mounted layed down like the 1/8 racers. I also only use hpi proceed "front" springs for both front and rear. Sounds very stiff but with the shocks layed down, feel is much softer until you try to corner then the weight transfer from side to side makes the springs very stiff. The stability is outstanding goinf rowund corners. Just tune rear end for increase/decrease front steering or rear traction. How do you have your rs4-3ss setup for racing?? (if you race that is...)

[Jetskiboy77]

Foams, 37 shore I think and 32 mm in back and 28 in the front. Threaded aluminum shocks with pro-linear springs,blue in back and pink in front colors I think it was, and 80 Weight shock oil. My SS handles amazing and is set up perfect for my driving taste. I just wanted to get those to have some extra shock support. I also have my shocks almost layed down just like you do.

[rs4lola]

Foams, 37 shore I think and 32 mm in back and 28 in the front. Threaded aluminum shocks with pro-linear springs,blue in back and pink in front colors I think it was, and 80 Weight shock oil. My SS handles amazing and is set up perfect for my driving taste. I just wanted to get those to have some extra shock support. I also have my shocks almost layed down just like you do.Excellent...Another rs4-3ss believer!!! Heard that Tamiya is releasing a shaft drive car that is ANOTHER rs4-4 clone(Kyosho, Ofna) When is HPI going to wake up and smell the roses!!! I think the rs4-3 can be a way better car than the R40!!! Or at least a great club racer car. With all the stuff I did to the car, it should all come from HPI...
On the other hand, hopping up this car has been a blast!!. This has got to be one HPI's best selling rc vehicles.
Anyway, looks like you have a good setup. The threaded aluminum shocks are one of the best hop-ups to get for this car. Once paired with the proceed springs, this car can really sticks to the road. I bought an XRay T1 sway bar kit and thought of a way to make it fit better than the one from HPI. If this works, I will let you know how. The only hop-ups that dont work are the sway bars and the ball diffs(at least for racing). I chewed thru the ball diff final gear in 2 seconds when if dropped the gas on my rr12l3 novarossi. This engine is a powerhouse. Fast or faster than the OS .18cvr and sucks half...yes HALF as much gas as the .18 cvr!!! Idles very smooth, stays cool and can use 30% nitro without shimming head!!!
If you do get the OS .18tz, definitely try the foam adaptors from Wolfpack Radicals. The car really performs with these 1/8 foams. 32 shore all around and 72mm tall. Probably need to gear down one notch as the tires are taller but you get a much wider contact patch on the road. Hopefully I can run these at parking lot race track as there is no limits on tires...

[jerseyevo]

NOT BAD FOR THE PRICE...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LNJKT1&P=G

[Jetskiboy77]

Excellent...Another rs4-3ss believer!!! Heard that Tamiya is releasing a shaft drive car that is ANOTHER rs4-4 clone(Kyosho, Ofna) When is HPI going to wake up and smell the roses!!! I think the rs4-3 can be a way better car than the R40!!! Or at least a great club racer car. With all the stuff I did to the car, it should all come from HPI...
On the other hand, hopping up this car has been a blast!!. This has got to be one HPI's best selling rc vehicles.
Anyway, looks like you have a good setup. The threaded aluminum shocks are one of the best hop-ups to get for this car. Once paired with the proceed springs, this car can really sticks to the road. I bought an XRay T1 sway bar kit and thought of a way to make it fit better than the one from HPI. If this works, I will let you know how. The only hop-ups that dont work are the sway bars and the ball diffs(at least for racing). I chewed thru the ball diff final gear in 2 seconds when if dropped the gas on my rr12l3 novarossi. This engine is a powerhouse. Fast or faster than the OS .18cvr and sucks half...yes HALF as much gas as the .18 cvr!!! Idles very smooth, stays cool and can use 30% nitro without shimming head!!!
If you do get the OS .18tz, definitely try the foam adaptors from Wolfpack Radicals. The car really performs with these 1/8 foams. 32 shore all around and 72mm tall. Probably need to gear down one notch as the tires are taller but you get a much wider contact patch on the road. Hopefully I can run these at parking lot race track as there is no limits on tires...

I love you and all the other SS believers. We may be few in number, but our RS4 3's are definitly good performers. Could I have went out and bought a susposed "race ready" car. Yes. Am I glad I didnt? Hell yes. I am very glad I bought this car and upgraded it the way I like it. I also like that at the track, its not the same old Serpant or NTC3. I like this movement of shaft drive cars from other car makers. I also think it can be as good or better than the R40 and I would bet good money this is one of HPI's best sellers.

[Jetskiboy77]

NOT BAD FOR THE PRICE...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LNJKT1&P=G

Another reason why its a good seller, because theres like 4 different versions of it for everyone to pick from, from rtr to kit, and .12 to .18 engine selection.

[trw]

yes, I love my SS too.

I've been put down before for buying an RS4 3 instead of the NTC3, but im glad I did, its easier to work on then the TC3 I had a while ago, after Christmas, the only stock things left on my car should be the:
Gas tank
Differentials
and some of the suspension.
and some of the drivetrain.

and most of that wont remain stock for long as well.

[TJNMT]

I think the rs4-3 can be a way better car than the R40!!! Or at least a great club racer car. With all the stuff I did to the car, it should all come from HPI...


That is a bit of a overkill there, There is only so little tunning you can do to the Rs4 compate to full adjustable R-40.
the Rs4 maybe only at a regional level race no more than that.

Don't get me work on the words, as I own 1 myself, and I use it as a basher/racer cars, Extremly durable for there price, but for all out racing, R-40 will have to do.

[Turbo B]

off topic but for all the guys that are low on cash tower has a new price on the 18 cvr its only 100 bucks now jus so you guys know

[Deznuts05]

off topic but for all the guys that are low on cash tower has a new price on the 18 cvr its only 100 bucks now jus so you guys know

thanks for the tip off but... I just looked and the price got better $89.99

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP5&P=ML

But what about that other motor some nova rossi??? how durable is that thing compaired to OS? like I know its all prefrence but like what's the record on nova rossi vs OS? I'm kinda strapped for cash so I want the best bang for the buck and I need that buck to go along way well atleast 1 year or 2 seasons... thanks!

[TJNMT]

If your strapped for cash or want a bang for your buck then go with OS.

It is not so much perference but performance, if comparing these motors.

Also it depends on well you tune your motors to run everytime, To get a long lasting motor treat it well and it will take care of you.

[Jetskiboy77]

That is a bit of a overkill there, There is only so little tunning you can do to the Rs4 compate to full adjustable R-40.
the Rs4 maybe only at a regional level race no more than that.

Don't get me work on the words, as I own 1 myself, and I use it as a basher/racer cars, Extremly durable for there price, but for all out racing, R-40 will have to do.


If you can set up the car to your driving preferences than the car can be just as fast around a track. Just because it doenst have all fancy adjustments to "tune" it, doesnt mean it cant be a fast track car. Im sure many of those "tuning" options go to waste or are wrongfully used.

[SVTcobra04]

ive got an RS4 RTR3.great car.first nitro.my friend got a cen carcen car (http://cenracing.com/cars/ct4s/ct4s.html) now his has a bigger engine and a 2 speed,and i can still beat him in a drag.it will top oput more then mine though.and im not even gonna say how much better my rs4 handles.I just wanted to know if anyone has had these cars and why my rs4 is faster then a 2 speed with a bigger engine.(not that thats bad)

[TJNMT]

There are many variables that play into that. You can't just assume on one thing.
It could be any of these or even more, but tunning, life, and fuel of the motor, Binding issues, tires, even even servos, and of course the driver in hand.

I mean that's great you can beat him in a stright line, but a course takes a little more skill, hit up the track and have some fun.

[TJNMT]

If you can set up the car to your driving preferences than the car can be just as fast around a track. Just because it doenst have all fancy adjustments to "tune" it, doesnt mean it cant be a fast track car. Im sure many of those "tuning" options go to waste or are wrongfully used.

It that was the case then we would be seeing alot more of the rs4 models in regional, national, and even world events.

When you have a car that is a race breed, you will utilze all of it's features to get around the track, and with a rs4 that is very limited. I have raced my rs4 and have won many races with it agaisnt serpents and mugens as well, the driver plays an important role, But the car will only take you so far.

[rs4lola]

It that was the case then we would be seeing alot more of the rs4 models in regional, national, and even world events.

When you have a car that is a race breed, you will utilze all of it's features to get around the track, and with a rs4 that is very limited. I have raced my rs4 and have won many races with it agaisnt serpents and mugens as well, the driver plays an important role, But the car will only take you so far.I am sure with the rs4-3ss setup similar to the r40, Hara would still beat everyone!!!
As I said in my original post. the rs4-3ss COULD be way better than the r40. It currently is NOT better for racing out of the box. I think HPI has made the decision NOT to improve the rs4-3 for racing. I think they have made a mistake. Hopefully they will come out with an rs4-4ss that
uses/upgrades the pro4 suspension for nitro use with the clutch/tranny from the r40. This combo would be lighter than the r40 and just as adjustable. Pivotball is great but
you can win with an electric suspension too (shumacher r12).
I do agree that race wins come mainly from the driver but a well setup car for the track you are running makes a huge difference. Most club racers have no clue how to adjust their car for racing. One thing for sure...I have spent way too much money trying to make this car into a competative racer. Hopefully next year will be worth it!!!

[TJNMT]

I bieleve that HPI did not make the RS4 into a race breed is because of price, HPI makes something for everybody, and not just the racer in mind. I have been with HPI since they were born, and hell it took forever for them to make the R-40.
These companies make huge profits off of there hop-ups compare to there kit. In the end it's all about business.
Take the R-40 for example, even out of the box, they need an extra $100-$200 bucks for a truly race breed car. That is why I always buy excelllent used cars, that are already hopped up for a cheaper price than a new car. The mugen cars are all ready to go and there price reflects that.

In the end there something for everybody to enjoy at a decent price.

[Deznuts05]

rs4lola,

so you say you've spent alot of money into your rs4... mind shedding some light for someone who is getting ready to race other NTC3's... the 2 speed is under the x-mass tree and the TR pipe is in the mail.... I'm not sure what class I'll be in because I'm using the FE motor... but I have a feeling that it will be dead before I start my first race... so I'm thinking of going .18 cvr but I'm not sure what class that puts me... mod or stock? no sure... also if possible mind PM'n me your setup? like where you placed the shocks, arms, toe, camber and what not???

I know I'm asking for alot but it seems as though you've spent alot of time behind the wrench so... I figure I'm asking the right person.

Thanks in advance
Rudy

[rs4lola]

I bieleve that HPI did not make the RS4 into a race breed is because of price, HPI makes something for everybody, and not just the racer in mind. I have been with HPI since they were born, and hell it took forever for them to make the R-40.
These companies make huge profits off of there hop-ups compare to there kit. In the end it's all about business.
Take the R-40 for example, even out of the box, they need an extra $100-$200 bucks for a truly race breed car. That is why I always buy excelllent used cars, that are already hopped up for a cheaper price than a new car. The mugen cars are all ready to go and there price reflects that.

In the end there something for everybody to enjoy at a decent price.
If you are a hardcore racer, you will pay lots for top line engine alone. I think there is a market for pro type race cars that start off as just the basics. I think HPI has got it right that the vast majority of rc car buyers are not racers.
If it just came down to parts, then make optional parts to turn the car into a real racer. My problem with the rs4-3ss, is that it is 75% of the way there already. It just needs a few better designed parts to race at the pro level( clutch-type tranny, centax clutch, sway bars that work, vented steel brake disk and most of all...heavy duty ball diffs, one-way, solid axles). The sway bars do NOT work on the rs4-3ss. The ball diffs are a maintenance nightmare. And the
diffs are not made for racing. My wishlist for improvements is alot smaller than you think...

[SVTcobra04]

There are many variables that play into that. You can't just assume on one thing.
It could be any of these or even more, but tunning, life, and fuel of the motor, Binding issues, tires, even even servos, and of course the driver in hand.

I mean that's great you can beat him in a stright line, but a course takes a little more skill, hit up the track and have some fun.

your right about the track.i set up a mini track with some cones and stuff in a parking lot and we raced.I beat him almost all the time.but thats because his idea of a good car with a good setup is a car that can do more donuts. :rolleyes:

so i guess my car was setup for the street(which is what i intended)but id like to go to aa reel track sometime and see how good I actually am against real drivers.it also would be loads of fun.just havnt had the time.

[Jetskiboy77]

If you are a hardcore racer, you will pay lots for top line engine alone. I think there is a market for pro type race cars that start off as just the basics. I think HPI has got it right that the vast majority of rc car buyers are not racers.
If it just came down to parts, then make optional parts to turn the car into a real racer. My problem with the rs4-3ss, is that it is 75% of the way there already. It just needs a few better designed parts to race at the pro level( clutch-type tranny, centax clutch, sway bars that work, vented steel brake disk and most of all...heavy duty ball diffs, one-way, solid axles). The sway bars do NOT work on the rs4-3ss. The ball diffs are a maintenance nightmare. And the
diffs are not made for racing. My wishlist for improvements is alot smaller than you think...

I have all those "Pro" hop ups. I have a 2 speed, I have a centax clutch, and I have a metal disk brake with fiber pads. I had a one way in there and hated it so its out now. And im not saying the RS4 3 is race ready out of the box, thats not what it was made to do, but with some good hop ups in the right spots its an awesome track car and I agree with Lola on many of his points. I dont like when people hate on the RS4 3's track abalities. It can be a damn good racer.

[TJNMT]

I dont like when people hate on the RS4 3's track abalities. It can be a damn good racer.

Well said

[pleaseletmeon34]

so I'm thinking of going .18 cvr but I'm not sure what class that puts me... mod or stock? no sure...
Rudy

That puts you in no class at D'pine. I don't know of any tracks in the area that it is legal.

[azizhousecallz]

engine seems to not have any vacuum.
first i though i may have had an air leak but after careful cleaning and checking also using some gasket seal no air leaking out of this engine.
But the engine will still not run.

It will kick over but it will only run for a second. it runs on the fuel i pump
into it, its not drawing fuel into the carb. Is this a sign of loss of vacuum or something else?

I checked my sleeve and its fine as far as i can tell so what could this be?
also when its running on that two seconds of fuel i go to open up it up and it stalls out.

need some help here guys!

[Jetskiboy77]

Well said

Thanks :)

[TJNMT]

engine seems to not have any vacuum.
first i though i may have had an air leak but after careful cleaning and checking also using some gasket seal no air leaking out of this engine.
But the engine will still not run.

It will kick over but it will only run for a second. it runs on the fuel i pump
into it, its not drawing fuel into the carb. Is this a sign of loss of vacuum or something else?

I checked my sleeve and its fine as far as i can tell so what could this be?
also when its running on that two seconds of fuel i go to open up it up and it stalls out.

need some help here guys!

I take if your running the fe engine, and you have sealed up the carb as well as the backplate.
What are your needle settings?

From what little info we have I would suggest it is running on the rich side.
Has the motor been properly broken in?

Hit us back with some info so we can't motor running.

[jjl]

slightly off-topic, but can someone tell me if the new RS4 3 with the .18 will be a RTR or a new type SS kit? some mags say it will be a new rtr, while others say it's a kit.

[Jetskiboy77]

I think it will be in kit form because the NMT2 SS w/ the .18 is a kit and also it says SS, and the Type SS was a kit. I think "SS" means kit, except for the Savage that had "SS" in it. I think the .18 cars/ trucks will all be kits. Also Tower says it will be a kit, so I am gonna go with kit.

[azizhousecallz]

I take if your running the fe engine, and you have sealed up the carb as well as the backplate.
What are your needle settings?

From what little info we have I would suggest it is running on the rich side.
Has the motor been properly broken in?

Hit us back with some info so we can't motor running.


motor is broke in have had the car for three months.
my needles are set to factory, and i did play around with the adjustment to make sure. but no fuel seems to be getting to the engine unless i pump it through. so what do you think the problem could be!

[josh222]

Yes that new SS wil be a kit. I still think the curent SS with the same gears as the new .18SS will be faster in the top end due to the fact of the higher reving engine, plus the Current SS is the fastest out of all the RS4 3

[Deznuts05]

How reliable/unreliable would you guys say the FE motor is... Honestly, I like HPI but what's the deal with the budget motor... This poor guy can't even break-in his motor... let alone turn her over to start the break-in process... (yes, I know he was able to get BOTH cars to turn over but it was very frustrating...) Now, he's pretty much lost all compression.
Personally, when I got my RTR 3 when it was first released I had the same exact problems... I even had the pull start that some people are raving about, but even with that I couldn't get her to turn over (and if you want to question my validity; search my username and you'll see my post. I had a B*tch of a time. I had to wear gloves just to get her started...)

Anyways, the reason why I'm posting is that my local track only has 2 classes, one of them being RTR/Nitro Stock... which in my opinion is a great idea! However, I'm left with using a FE motor or a T-15, both of which I think are still crap motors...

What really gets me is that HPI and some HPI loyalist believe that these motors are products from GODS and that it’s the users end that is messing up the motors... I feel that's utter BS due to the fact that; Yes! there is some blame to be taken from the user but to have the company wash their hands of the users totally is BS... like in my head I'm thinking ahh OK I'm sure I did something wrong... however I didn't pour sand in my motor, nor did I let DUST!? in my carb... like its just ridiculous that they have the Horror Stories up like that... I understand that it’s so that the user doesn't take advantage of HPI, but really now... I and this other guy, we're just trying to break-in our motors... and for Christ sake we can't even get through that part w/o breaking something. Personally, I broke 2 pull starts that's $40 down the drain and I still needed a pull start so that's $60 before I could even continue... Next, when I though I had her at her prime it looked like I needed to re-do the process again because I lost compression (like this guy)... Not only that I was left on the track with an erratic idle, un-controllable car, which got in people’s way and then was turned off by it all for 2 years… Now I ask you, is this what HPI is looking for? To sell a customer a car jus to have them turn away?

I’m sure this has been debated over and over again but it really ticks me off that I’m for one am the person that roots for the under-dog but there’s a time when enough is enough and say what’s going on here? I would have gotten a NTC3 but I wanted to boost HPI and shows that HPI too can race but… if I can’t even get my motor to break-in how can I?

So this takes me back to, is the FE a reliable motor? If not, then does that me I have to race in Mod nitro? If yes, then how would the RS4 3 hold up? I would going against skilled drivers and dialed in cars.

I just want to have a good time with my cars. I’m not looking to get any trophies or get on the cover of a magazine. The very least is not to get in other racer’s way like I did 2 yrs ago. What path must I take to succeed? I will also take the responsibility of saying I’m not the best driver but if I can’t get something to get me around the track how can my skills of driving increase? For an example, I bought a TC3 over the internet, I was hooked up with all these great parts and what have you, but the car was tweaked so when I got onto the track other ppl were like oh he’s a new driver, he’s NEW in general… well turns out that since my car was SO tweaked that I couldn’t get it around the track without causing some rubbing… well now after 3 races and a long practice day over the weekend the car is dialed in and I’m finally racing like everyone else… but because it was an electric I was pretty much safe with the GO portion, so I just needed to setup my suspension. But how am I to do that with the RS4 3 aka RTR3 if I can’t even get my motor to break-in, stay idle for however long it takes to run to the drivers’ stand, etc?

Sorry for the long post but I think it really explains what I and some other HPI owners are feeling.

Rudy

[josh222]

A lot of people say the FE sucks but i haven't seen another engine that can so much abuse. If you are going through pull=starts you are ovisly pulling to far, HPI pull starts don't like to be yanked far. no more than 8" Have you tried heating it up? before you try to start it

[Deznuts05]

A lot of people say the FE sucks but I haven't seen another engine that can so much abuse. If you are going through pull=starts you are ovisly pulling to far, HPI pull starts don't like to be yanked far. no more than 8" Have you tried heating it up? before you try to start it

Err hate to say it but... my one experience can't speak for all and not to rave about the neglect I do to my motors it’s just a point...

OK well abuse and again not to rave about abusing motors I treat my stuff with care only because I'm dead broke close to all of the time. So spending money on my RC is something that I hate doing. Anyways let’s talk about abuse... My T-Maxx... it should be called ole faithful... I bought her 6months before I got my RTR3 and to say the only nitro I had before that was a Traxxas Nitro Hawk so... I'm Old school ok... well I had the Nitro Hawk when I was 12 and that was a trash motor... 8 years later I buy another Traxxas in hopes that it doesn't turn out how my first nitro car did... AND THANK GOD it didn't. I went buy the books on breaking it, and it was able to make it through the break-in process and it didn't break a part... then close to every weekend I got to play with her bashing and at the track... eventually school and work took over my time and all I did was clean her up and put in after oil in and that was it... 1 year later I break her out and bam primed her up and BAM she's back to life... but this time I'm on a mission to Kill the motor and get something new... well after 1 month of beating the hell out of her she's still stand up and asks for more... after 6months of abuse school and work take over again... Now to the present time I turn her over just to make sure she hasn't taken the long dive over the deep and what do you know she's still wakes up and its still smooth sail'n....

So if you want to talk about abuse I, know how to run nitros and I know how or what would kill one... Also, comparing the FE to anything else is like apple to oranges however on the reliability comparisons someone from HPI must read letters like this everyday and they should do something for their customers that first helped them get the rtr3 rolling... like where's the support? Like how do I feel like I'm supporting a good cause when the one I'm supporting washes their hands of me?

Take Novak... you can pretty much trade any of their products and pay a small fee and get a brand new or updated model... what does HPI do? The post Horror Stories of how not to treat their cars... Personally it made me feel as though I couldn't talk to them without being belittled by them. Also, from a serious racer from a local track told me that he used to race them and he personally was turned away... well, that should have been a sign to me but... like what made me want to go HPI was that it was the underdog... everyone and their mother bought the NTC3 and well you know what... I makes me feel that I should have made that move instead... but no I want to show that the RS4 3 can move like the NTC3 or better but its near impossible when they give you trash... and then they don't support the trash... Sure someone can say well did you write to HPI or contact them... the answer to that is NO... how can me when their page of Horror is so convincing that I the user, owner, and the person that invested in your company is to blame...

Sorry for the bitterness but from all that I see is that I can't run my car unless it’s in the mod class (which is not HPI's fault) but if I run it in RTR or Stock Nitro I'll be going through motors like is tap water... And to boot I could have spent more in the beginning and got a NTC3 but no I wanted to show that HPI isn't for newbs but novice drivers and with their products we can show up the racer crowd that went with AE products... Well that's d*mn near impossible if I can't even break-in my motor...

And not to go against your word Josh, I’m sure your right you were able to put your FE through the paces. However, you even stated it yourself that a lot of people say the same thing about the FE’s isn’t that a sign that HPI should do for their loyal customers? Rather than look for more ways in making money for themselves?

Lastly, to answer your questions I did all that was prescribed… and I even stated if you want you could search my first few post about the RTR3.

Thanks Josh for replying sorry to sound like I’m yelling at you, it is not my intentions to is just that even on HPI’s forums it’s hard to find any sort of factual information… this is my personal opinion but I’m sure I’m not the only one that feels this way.

[trw]

they did do something about the FE, its called the EVO 3 RTR, where they stuck in a T-15 and a 2-speed, notice the regular RTR3 is no longer on their site.

and the horror page, has proof of what the owners did to their engines, its not like HPI did that on purpose, they are only trying to tell other people to be a little more careful with the engines.

and the RS4 3 was not meant to be a racer, so you cant expect it to do well on the track from the get go, look at what the other guys are running and maybe you can try running it, like foam tires? sway bars? tweak your suspension some....

the FE engine is just a horrible engine, its one of HPIs earlier engines, HPI did do something about that engine, they built newer faster more reliable engines and stuck them in new kits.

Ive never had any trouble with HPI, never, and ive never broken any of their pullstarts, 75% of the time when something goes wrong, it is the users fault, HPIs car work when they are pulled out of the box, as they are intended to do, ofcourse there is the occasional defect, but nothing is perfect.

[jjl]

NOT BAD FOR THE PRICE...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LNJKT1&P=G


The current SS can be had for $240. I hope the price of the new SS with the .18 doesn't stay at $319 like it is on Tower's website. i realize the new SS has some improvements, but not $80 worth.

[trw]

does anyone know where i can purchase the wolfpack radicals transmission?

[Deznuts05]

does anyone know where i can purchase the wolfpack radicals transmission?

http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/

Thanks for replying to my post... You are correct in your post however I don't think you got my point about how the horror page made it unwary to ask any questions. Also, it maybe true that YOU never broke a pull start however in saying that I was able to break 2 in a row it’s my fault? Sorry, I highly doubt that I'm at to fault... but hey your right they did change the motor but what did they do to compensate owners that bought the release product? I already spend hard earned cash to get the car in the first release and now I have to spend more because they just had a bad motor? And in agreeing with that it’s my fault that I went with HPI as a customer...

Also, many would disagree that the rtr3 is not a race worthy car… so I don’t know were you get off on saying that its not a racer…

[F150RTR]

Hi everyone. My 15FE engine that came with my HPI RS4 3 RTR is broken in properly ( i went exactly by the book). The car drives great with the factory setting of the carb but as you all know at that setting its not a full optimal performance atleaset speed wise. So i went by the instructions manual to tune the engine, followed their insturction in regards to the needle setting, and the RPM idle (you know the tiny screw). The thing now is that the car drives alot faster than when it came out of the box, the only problem is that the idle is erratic, what i mean is especially after the engine is at operating temps and the car is not driven the rpm keeps on going up and down, wont stay still or idle smooth. I tried to play around with the idle screw but when i do that the carburator would either be open alot (so it will be reving high) and if i go the other way when i hit the brakes it will shut off. Right know the idle screw is set I think perfectly the card is open about 1mm and when i hit the brakes it doesnt shut off. So iam assuming my tuning problem is from the needle valve portion of it.

What do you guys who run 15FE engines have your needles set at (i mean how many clock wise or counter clock wise clicks do you have it at)?
I know it differs from one engine to another but this will give me an idea of where it should be.

Or if anyone else has a better idea on how to fine tune this engine please let me know.

Thank you for your help in advance and sorry for the long post.

[TJNMT]

That idleing up and down indicates that you have a air leak somewhere, ie fuel line, the neck of the carb, backplate, fuel tank.

Air is comming into the engine other that the carb,

[F150RTR]

HHmm the car is still new just ran it 6 times after the break in process so how could something get loose that fast!!!

When you say back plate which part is that? I have a pullstarter.
also how do i check if i do have a air leak (could be something else) is there a definitive way to check or do i just go and tighten everything??

thanks

[josh222]

things become loose very fast with out lock tight, the back plate is behind the pull start

[F150RTR]

So i will have to remove the pull starter and then i will be able to tighten the backplate?? correct me if iam wrong.

also how do i check if i do have a air leak is there a definitive way to check or do i just go and tighten everything??

How come it idle like this only when it is at operating temps....the first 4-5 minutes it idles perfectly??

[oachalon]

Did you guys notice that on the .12r ss motor that if you lean the lsn a little bit from stock that the carb starts to bind up and doesnt go from closed to open throttle smoothly. So you have to keep the lsn pretty much around stock and since its that way im not getting real good bottom end. Good top end but not so good bottom end.

[trw]

no, the RS4 3 was not intended to be a race car, it *can* be with alot of work, which i have done to mine and I do race it, but when you pull it out of that box, its not built for racing, and im sorry that you are having so much trouble with your RS4 3.

does anyone know a website that i can actually buy the wolfpack radicals tranny on? on wolfpack's site they list one site that sells their stuff, but it doesnt have their RS4 3 2-speed tranny.

[TJNMT]

You email wolfpack,
Great person to deal with, and excellent products.
He prefers paypal and is quick with response time. He also makes customs parts on the side besides what he has on his site.

So if you need or want something out of the blue, he can make it.
He does have the 2 speed on there,
Just email me and he will get you back

[F150RTR]

So i will have to remove the pull starter and then i will be able to tighten the backplate?? correct me if iam wrong.

also how do i check if i do have a air leak is there a definitive way to check or do i just go and tighten everything??

How come it idle like this only when it is at operating temps....the first 4-5 minutes it idles perfectly??


So i will have to remove the pull starter and then i will be able to tighten the backplate?? correct me if iam wrong.

[rs4lola]

rs4lola,

so you say you've spent alot of money into your rs4... mind shedding some light for someone who is getting ready to race other NTC3's... the 2 speed is under the x-mass tree and the TR pipe is in the mail.... I'm not sure what class I'll be in because I'm using the FE motor... but I have a feeling that it will be dead before I start my first race... so I'm thinking of going .18 cvr but I'm not sure what class that puts me... mod or stock? no sure... also if possible mind PM'n me your setup? like where you placed the shocks, arms, toe, camber and what not???

I know I'm asking for alot but it seems as though you've spent alot of time behind the wrench so... I figure I'm asking the right person.

Thanks in advance
Rudy Lots of wrenching...very true!!! What type of track will you be running? My setup is geared for short track technical parking lot. For this type of track traction,acceleration and braking are key to winning. As much as I love the OS .18 cvr (or TZ...) I would suggest 1.5+hp .12 competion engine. Great acceleration and much better fuel mileage. To win in A-mains, reduce number of fuel stops to minimum. I use a NovaRossi RR12L3. Powerhouse for a .12 lots of low end torque and it still revs. Expensive but worth it. For max traction, try 1/8 foams using foam adaptors from Wolfpack Radicals. For ROAR type rules, stick with std size foams. Shocks sould be layed down as much as possible for the inmost postition and the outmost position should be as close to the wheel as possible. I run a size 3 hole all around so I just have to change the shock oil. For short tracks you want the car to react as fast as posible. Try a lower weighted oil. With the shocks layed down, much stiffer springs can be used such as the proceed springs. Make sure rear end is softer than the front end and try to run with a sway bar up front only. To make the rear end stick, use the 2 degree toe in rear hub carriers( aluminum) with the camber link angled as much as possible. The angling of the camber links really makes the rear end stick without going to stiffer springs. I set my camber at around 1 degree all around as the 1/8 foams have great traction already. I use 0 degree front toe in as I want the car to track as strait as possible. There is so much more I have done with car. I just order the narrow rs4 suspension arms, so that I can fit the 1/8 foams under a 200mm body. Currently the car is over 210 mm wide!!!
There is so much more that I have done to the like stainless steel screws
and kyosho aluminum ball ends. I am trying to make the car as light as possible, so the car will react faster around a small track.
I am NO pro but I do experiment a lot ($$$). The car can keep up with the big boys but needs LOTS of hopups...
And to all of the posts that say it is NOT a race car:
Look on the fron cover of the rs4-3ss kit box...1/10 scale nitro RACE car!!!
It is not a "pro" competition race car but it definitely IS a race car!!! This
car is a perfect club racer especially if you run outlaw rules

[Deznuts05]

Thanks rs4lola,

My track is a say at the best 40 ft by 40ft I'm not really good at eye'n things up but it is a parking lot of a resturant and it is small and technical so pretty much everything that you just mention I'll start trying.

As far as setup I'd hate to ask the specifcations but what color springs, oil, and gearing are you using? are you on a 2-speed if so what gears?

Thanks so much for the rear end tips... last time I had this car rolling the it was rear end happy, what I mean is that it would like to just slide out whenever any steering input was applied... Also, I'm trying to keep things on a budget... close to impossible I know it being an expensive hobby however with your tips that you've mentioned which would you say had the greatest amount of effect to the handle'n of the car... Oh and I'm trying to keep it close to ROAR leagle so 1/8 wheels are out of my wish list.

Lastly, rear castor.... I haven't touched a thing on my suspension however, it looks like my rear already has a preset castor setup... and if I'm anywhere close it looks like a postive camber... (the wheels look like they lean back) have any ideas or tips on this? thanks!

[Deznuts05]

Also, how does one search on Tower or anywhere for graphite or carbon fiber parts? I've been looking on tower and the most of the parts I keep on seeing is for the micro... that's cool but... where's parts for my car?

[rs4lola]

Also, how does one search on Tower or anywhere for graphite or carbon fiber parts? I've been looking on tower and the most of the parts I keep on seeing is for the micro... that's cool but... where's parts for my car?
Most of the parts you need for the rs4-3ss come only from HPI/HotBodies. Browse their website. I think HPI is affiliated or owns HotBodies. GPM racing also sells a lot of upgrades too but I do not know thier website.

[Deznuts05]

Thanks! What parts would you say were the most notice able

[Jetskiboy77]

Graphite Upperdeck! Then some threaded shocks and maybe some graphite shock towers. Also look at the chassis thats on R/C Boyz, its marked down from like 60$ or 70$ to like 20$, and its an excellent chassis that ive been running. With that chassis and my graphite upperdeck, my RS4 3 can be bent or twisted in any way. Thats all I can think of for now. I can get you links if you need them, but most of the parts are from Hotbodies (for me) and some from HPI.

[josh222]

Graphite upper deck
Graphite Shock towers
Front suspention brace
Foam tires

all equal good handling

ohh and a good chassi, Jetski i am gona make a copy of the Super Chassi from 7075 T6 Alumium 4mm thick at christmas time :D

[josh222]

I have decide to go and do all the work i can on my SS and no R40, for a engine I want this one, Big Block Baby :D OS .21RG Sport (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ33&P=0) nothing to wild and i very cheap, and with a 10 buck discount Tower always has i looking at 99.99 for that engine :) i will get Wolf Packs .21 convertion mounts

[rs4lola]

Thanks! What parts would you say were the most notice ableNumber one item that made the most difference to me was the threaded aluminum shocks. The handling was like night and day compared to stock. I assume you want to race this car seriously but on a budget.
Follow as much of this list BEFORE you do anything else to car:
- HPI Threaded Aluminum Shocks
- HPI Super Chassis
- HPI Graphite Upper Deck
- HotBodies Graphite Shock Towers (front & rear)
- HPI Graphite Front C-Hubs/Steering Knuckle
- HPI Graphite Suspension Arms
- HPI Aluminum 2 degree Rear Hub Carriers
- HPI Titanium Turnbuckle kit
- HotBodies or GPM Aluminum steering kit
- HotBodies Aluminum Center Gear Carrier
- RC Screwz Stainless Steel screws (must do...)
- Kyosho Aluminum Flanged Hard Balls
- HPI Heavy Duty Rod Ends
- HPI Stainless steel Hinge Kit

Sorry this will not be cheap if you want to be competative racer.

[Jetskiboy77]

rs4lola I got some questions for you or anyone else that can answer them.

I put foams on my RS4 3. They rubbed the aluminum knuckle a little. Got the wheel spacers. Its perfect now, there is no rubbing on the aluminum, BUT (of course theres a "but" nothing can be perfect the first time around) the tires rub on the back of my RSX body. This is unacceptable especially since the lexan could probably rip the foams apart. Is there a body I can run that these foams will fit under, Id figure lola would know since your running 1/8 scale foams that have to be at least the same size or bigger than my back foams. (32mm) I was thinkin maybe the RX-7, because I heard it can fit bigger tires in the back. If theres no body, then I guess ill whip the dremel out, shave some aluminum, and take the spacers out, and maybe change my camber setting, but I would perfer not to do that because I love the way it runs now.

Next, Im trying to finish getting the parts to finalize my rs4 3 as a racer. Lola, can you please find out for me where I can get that shock brace from. I would greatly, and I mean GREATLY apprepicate if you could tell me.

I think thats it for now, I would be in great debt for any help that you guys can give me. Cant wait till summer, when I get to hit the track with a even more lethal RS4 3 then the one I had for the summer that just passed. :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Graphite upper deck
Graphite Shock towers
Front suspention brace
Foam tires

all equal good handling

ohh and a good chassi, Jetski i am gona make a copy of the Super Chassi from 7075 T6 Alumium 4mm thick at christmas time :D
Nice Josh

All the hop ups lola mentioned are amazing, I also run most of them, but I have that damn problem I mentioned abover. Lola, how are the graphite suspension arms, I was also thinking about getting those for Christamas.
When you get an upgraded chassis and the graphite upperdeck, the car is impossible to bend. I tried to see how solid it was last night by giving it a little twist, and it laughed at me, it didnt move at all. And the threaded shocks are also very, very good, and easily adjustable. Also when you get the aluminum steering kit, replace the bushings that come with it with ball bearings. I dont remember the exact size, but it will take me about 30 seconds to find it if you tell me you want it. This little mod made the steeting very precise, and ultra smooth. Lola where can I get the RC Screwz? I love this movement of RS4 3 racers, it brings a tear to my eye. lol :p

[Deznuts05]

I know some ppl don't like to post links here but... I think its worth getting yelled at plus it will help the community I feel... and if it's already been posted SORRY. I don't mean to step on any toes.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/nitro_engine_boost.html

it claims to fix compression loss and increases the life of the motor...

[Kenny T]

Jetskiboy, http://www.rcscrewz.com/ :)

Deznuts, that's just the stuff I need. My Wasp is just about to go. I hope it works.

[Turbo B]

how has everey been? good id hope.. well ive been busy with shcool and work.. but i thought id jus tell you guys what i wad gettin myself for xmax
well here is my xmax list..
os mas 18 zt"will the motor jus drop it or what" :D
racer edge chassis "is it any good i neva heard any of you guys talk bout this one" :confused:
graphite upperdeck
thats about it...
if it warm next week ill let you guys know how the motor is

[rs4lola]

Nice Josh

All the hop ups lola mentioned are amazing, I also run most of them, but I have that damn problem I mentioned abover. Lola, how are the graphite suspension arms, I was also thinking about getting those for Christamas.
When you get an upgraded chassis and the graphite upperdeck, the car is impossible to bend. I tried to see how solid it was last night by giving it a little twist, and it laughed at me, it didnt move at all. And the threaded shocks are also very, very good, and easily adjustable. Also when you get the aluminum steering kit, replace the bushings that come with it with ball bearings. I dont remember the exact size, but it will take me about 30 seconds to find it if you tell me you want it. This little mod made the steeting very precise, and ultra smooth. Lola where can I get the RC Screwz? I love this movement of RS4 3 racers, it brings a tear to my eye. lol :p
Graphite are very stiff and enhance the suspension greatly.
But...they can break if you run into a post!!! Broken 2 so far but that was due to own stupidity!!! Good thing is NOTHING else broke on car on both occasions. The RCScrewZ are from...www.rcscrewz.com. Get these screws to replace ALL screwz in car. The Kyosho aluminum flanged balls are awsome. Lightweight and they are 3mm threaded. I use them anywhere I need a rod end such as steering, shocks, turnbuckle ends. Once again not cheap but worth it. I tried titanium screws but them seemed to
weld with aluminum!!! Maybe its just me but I am passing on them but you maybe could use them for the top side of the upper deck. Yes I replace the steering bushings with 4x8 ball bearings. I also replace ALL the ball bearings with ceramic ball bearings from Acer Racing. They were on sale with free shipping but still not cheap. The drivetrain is defintely smoother in my opinion.
The real part to place this car in the winners circle (not there yet) is the differentials. The ball diffs are crap!!! HotBodies sells a heavy duty one-way which I might order
if I can somehow use with the HPI ball diff components. For short track racing, you really need a solid axle. The current diffs from HPI just are not fast enough or smooth enough to make this car a topflite racer. But...my quest is to improve the diffs as much as possible so we can WIN next year racing. Nutz??? yes...but THIS is why I am in this hobby...

[josh222]

I realy crash, i haven't crashed in a while, and thorugh all those crashes i haven't broke it :)

[rs4lola]

rs4lola I got some questions for you or anyone else that can answer them.

I put foams on my RS4 3. They rubbed the aluminum knuckle a little. Got the wheel spacers. Its perfect now, there is no rubbing on the aluminum, BUT (of course theres a "but" nothing can be perfect the first time around) the tires rub on the back of my RSX body. This is unacceptable especially since the lexan could probably rip the foams apart. Is there a body I can run that these foams will fit under, Id figure lola would know since your running 1/8 scale foams that have to be at least the same size or bigger than my back foams. (32mm) I was thinkin maybe the RX-7, because I heard it can fit bigger tires in the back. If theres no body, then I guess ill whip the dremel out, shave some aluminum, and take the spacers out, and maybe change my camber setting, but I would perfer not to do that because I love the way it runs now.

Next, Im trying to finish getting the parts to finalize my rs4 3 as a racer. Lola, can you please find out for me where I can get that shock brace from. I would greatly, and I mean GREATLY apprepicate if you could tell me.

I think thats it for now, I would be in great debt for any help that you guys can give me. Cant wait till summer, when I get to hit the track with a even more lethal RS4 3 then the one I had for the summer that just passed. :)I am goint to the lhs on the weekend. I will bring that part and find out what it is really used for. With the 1/8 foam adaptors on the car is over 210mm wide!!! And guess what body I first used...Yokomo Lola GTP. This is the only 200 mm 1/10 scale body that fits toruring cras with wider than 30mm wheels. If you really want to fit then under a standard touring body like a dodge stratus, you could use rs4 pro2 suspension arms from the electric car. They fit exactly (I have them now) and you can still use the crappy sway bars if you want but the the outer shock positions will now make the suspension a little stiffer if you use the same shocks. With thes narrow suspension arms, I am just able to fit my 1/8 foams (37mm width) under a dodge stratus body. I am sure the 32mm wide foams would fit with no rubbing problems. Major drawback is the shocks may interfere with the rear shock tower(hotbodies one). I am experimenting with using the front shock tower on the rear aswell. These mods are making the rs4-3ss into some kind of racer. I also have another way to install front sway bars but I am still experimenting. They are fully functional and once I think they arte ready, I will let you know how to make them.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks sooo much Lola, and I figured you ran a lola body because of your name, and I thought about doing that, but I like the realism when I see a car that I can recoginze zoom by on the track, and I also greatly enjoy the touring gt series and street racing, which are the bodies that are made for this car. I want to leave the lola bodies to the 1/8 scales.

[Turbo B]

I know some ppl don't like to post links here but... I think its worth getting yelled at plus it will help the community I feel... and if it's already been posted SORRY. I don't mean to step on any toes.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/nitro_engine_boost.html

it claims to fix compression loss and increases the life of the motor...

try and find a price id buy and jus leave it around the room if its cheap

[josh222]

yes do the testing as a guine pig :D

[Jetskiboy77]

lol exactly, anyone got a price on it though and if it really works or not? And thanks Kenny T for the link.

[josh222]

ya i wonder how much it costs?

[Silent Night]

17.59

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGV6&P=7

[josh222]

not bad price

[Turbo B]

ok ok.. bad new and good news i went to pick up the tz motor i didnt know it was onlu rear exhaust.. so i wont be gettin it.. i got my upper deck tho and sum foumsand my racer eage chassis .. but now im bac to question should i got with the rb or jus buy the 18 cvr i neva really got an answer im not sure of the hp on the rb but id like sum help..cause if me and jet ever met up i dont think race the os @ the track.. but witht he rb i can.. so if any1 can tell me the hp on the rb c12.. and jus which 1 would you pick for a parkin lot car
plz sum1 help

[Jetskiboy77]

"This product is intended to restore power in broken-in nitro engines increasing compression and decreasing friction at the same time. Use every ten tankfulls of fuel."

Is it only for broken in engines, or can you use it on engines that have like a slightly more compression loss. And how much of that bottle do you use every 10 tanks, how many CC's will that applicator take out?

[josh222]

Turbo B why aren't you getting the TZ? all you need is a rear exhaust manifold, half the of the people here have RS4 3 with re engines :rolleyes:

all you need is this....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFAZ8&P=7

[Turbo B]

cause i already spent 60 bucks on a side ehaust not to have to out and spend another 60 bucks for a re and then another 230 bucks for the motor

[josh222]

well then go for the CVR 18 and maybe you could get it ported or something :D with it being only 90bucks you could get the SG with the slide carb and get a Centax :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Would you really need to port a OS 18CVR? Definitly go for the Centax, mounts, and SG version with the extra money thats saved. That is an awesome price for that engine.

[josh222]

well if you want the power to be like the TZ port it should gian a bit more power from the 1.6HP

[Deznuts05]

I recently got my RDL pipe and I wanted to know if I can use it on a rear ported motor if I used the HPI header? Would this work? thanks! Rudy

[josh222]

the HPI manifold isn't made for a 1-peice it might be able to be conected to the pipe with the silicon conecter. you could call RD and ask if you can buy just a re manifold

[Turbo B]

welll with the exrta money i was going to put it away and but a revo maybe or jus fix my civic i blew the motor last nite gotta love boost.. but anyway the cvr it is i guess does the sg verison come in p/s form?

[josh222]

nope, tower doesn't have them, your lhs might

[Turbo B]

ok i have a few questions.. if i was to go with the 18 cvr i what class would i be in if i was to go to the track?? and where can i get my motor ported

[Jetskiboy77]

The .18 would be in an outlaw class.

[Turbo B]

iight thanx and what tool would i need to port my motor

[Turbo B]

and if im in the outlaw class that means id have to race with guys that 21.s also woudnt really be fair

[racer234]

Hey Turbo B,
I'm gonna put a .18 CV-R in my RS4 3, too. I was wondering what upgrades you did to the friveline to handle the power? So far, it looks like I'm getting the hardened differential pinion gears & outdrives, and the hot bodies universals; apparently the CVD's for the RS4 dont hold up (I've been told). Thanks for any help.

[trw]

like I said in the other post, mods for the drivetrain really arent 100% neccessary other then the universals,

Ive only had 1 incident where i broke a part that *may* have been cause by too much power from my CVRX, and im not even sure it broke, i could have just lost it, but, I looked in my car one day and noticed my rear center dogbone was gone, I want to get center universals but they are so rare i cant seem to find them.

[Kenny T]

You probably lost it. I can't imagine a centre dogbone snapping from power. I bent one on the NMT from going full speed (30-35mph) into a rubbish bin with my weaker brushless in it. That was a pretty heavy hit but the dogbone didn't snap. I hammered it back enough to use and it's fine.

[Turbo B]

Hey Turbo B,
I'm gonna put a .18 CV-R in my RS4 3, too. I was wondering what upgrades you did to the friveline to handle the power? So far, it looks like I'm getting the hardened differential pinion gears & outdrives, and the hot bodies universals; apparently the CVD's for the RS4 dont hold up (I've been told). Thanks for any help.

well i havent done anything but the red set of pinion gears which they say is for top speed and i also have a mip racing clutch.. .. i feel wit the 18 i already low end..im not to sure bout added cvd if the stock ones dont break im not going to waste the money..but if i were you id get a better chasis "ebay has a few for 20 bucks you could get lucky like i did" b4 i even got cvd the stock chassis has to much play.. hope i was any help

[josh222]

You won't break anything if you do little things like put grease in the diff and have them shimmed

[rs4lola]

Hey Turbo B,
I'm gonna put a .18 CV-R in my RS4 3, too. I was wondering what upgrades you did to the friveline to handle the power? So far, it looks like I'm getting the hardened differential pinion gears & outdrives, and the hot bodies universals; apparently the CVD's for the RS4 dont hold up (I've been told). Thanks for any help.
I have not broke anything in my driveline using the stock center dogbones and mip cvd. The pin came out twice when I had the .18 cvr installed but no breakage. Definitely
shim ALL drive line drive cups (front/rear/center) as much as possible, put grease in diffs, put 2 set screws in center driveline cups and use diff springs in both f&r diffs. Also use only one o-ring for the center rear dogbone. Adjust rear shim to have zero lash for center rear dogbone. With the design of the rs4-3, the rear diff receives more torque than the front diff. Great for acceleration. Coupled with the short gear final drive, a high rpm motor can really make this car move fast...

[Turbo B]

ive never rebuilt my diffs and would i shim all drive line cups??

[Jetskiboy77]

You would use a dremel to do engine work, but I dont think you should do work to that engine. To find those rare center universals, r/c boyz has them. Ill get a link when im done eating.

[rs4lola]

You would use a dremel to do engine work, but I dont think you should do work to that engine. To find those rare center universals, r/c boyz has them. Ill get a link when im done eating.The brace that you inquired about is from the rs4 pro3. I think is a suspension arm brace.
By the way, try not to get parts from GPM. I tried their steering arm assembly and its crap!!! The holes are NOT 3mm like ALL other screws on the car and one half of the assembly is designed VERY poorly!!! This is goin in the garbage!!! Very disapointed. I guess I am just getting may parts from HPI, HotBodies, Wolfpack Radicals and Kyosho. Have no complaints from these parts especially HPI. Great quality (except HPI crappy ball diff/sway bars/transmission)...

[rs4lola]

ive never rebuilt my diffs and would i shim all drive line cups??Yes, if you plan on doing any serious type of racing. You need to reduce driveline lash to zero. ANY driveline lash will increase wear and reduce performance. If your diff gears are sloppy, they will wear and break. Also by tightening up driveline. more engine torque is transferred to wheels instead of into the chassis. Torque turns wheels to make you go faster and win. Torque into chassis does not make car go any faster
and have all the ntc3/serpent guys laughing at you. Take it from me...I know!!!

[Jetskiboy77]

The brace that you inquired about is from the rs4 pro3. I think is a suspension arm brace.
By the way, try not to get parts from GPM. I tried their steering arm assembly and its crap!!! The holes are NOT 3mm like ALL other screws on the car and one half of the assembly is designed VERY poorly!!! This is goin in the garbage!!! Very disapointed. I guess I am just getting may parts from HPI, HotBodies, Wolfpack Radicals and Kyosho. Have no complaints from these parts especially HPI. Great quality (except HPI crappy ball diff/sway bars/transmission)...

Thanks so much, now I need to find it online, I dont think its on Tower. I run a bunch of GPM parts and have no trouble with them.

[Turbo B]

here are sum pics of my car after adding the chassis and the upper deck sowwi the pics r bad.. but the car still doesnt feel light or maybe its just me

[Jetskiboy77]

Nice car Turbo.

[Turbo B]

this is a pic of the racer edge chassis

[Turbo B]

so tell me what you guys think

[Turbo B]

lol jet my car doesnt have anything on urs man.. but thanx

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks Turbo, and you stole my chassis! :)

[Turbo B]

lol how did i steal you chassis?? they have another on ebay 20 bucks man i wanna drive it so badddd.. and jet do you find your car to be light after adding all the parts??

[josh222]

ya thats nice, the graphite parts don't really make it lighter mostly stiffer

[Turbo B]

i did the chassis also but hell the car looks way betta i dont kno what else 2 buy.. i think sum tires and than its time to save up for a truck "its going to stay stock unless i get a used one" and den start saving up for a motor for my civic

[Jetskiboy77]

lol how did i steal you chassis?? they have another on ebay 20 bucks man i wanna drive it so badddd.. and jet do you find your car to be light after adding all the parts??

R/C Boyz has it for 20$ also. The car is very light, maybe some of it is from the graphite, but the car wasnt that heavy stock either, its less than the R40. Josh is like 100% right though, the car is a rock. Its amazingly solid. I tried to move my twist my chassis to see if it was strong b/c I was bored, and it didnt budge. I have the same chassis as you and the HB upperdeck, and theyre is definitly a noticible increase in performance. The car is storng and solid with those parts on it. Now im going to try and have my dads friend make me those shock braces, then itll be super solid on all parts. :D :D

[Turbo B]

jet pm your cell numba if you got one i wanna ask you a few things or you can catch me on aim my sn is turbobsohc

[Jetskiboy77]

Ok ill I.M. you ASAP.

[Jetskiboy77]

lola I just realized something, wheres your rear body mounts? Because I went to go see if my dads friend could make ke the shock braces and he said the front would be easy but it might hit the back, which would be where the body would mount, yet I dont see the body posts or what the posts are connected to in your pic. Also just for a reference, what holes do you have your shocks mounted on?

[Turbo B]

hey i want one too lol

[rs4lola]

lola I just realized something, wheres your rear body mounts? Because I went to go see if my dads friend could make ke the shock braces and he said the front would be easy but it might hit the back, which would be where the body would mount, yet I dont see the body posts or what the posts are connected to in your pic. Also just for a reference, what holes do you have your shocks mounted on?
good that you asked...the rear body mounts are attached directly to the shock towers. The stock rear mounts were useless and just added weight. The shock mounts are mounted to the top diff screws. This makes the shocks really layed down. Make sure you use stiffer springs to compensate.
I am almost finished modding my car with changes made to fit the 1/8 foams under a standard 200mm body.
Begin rant...
The rs4-3ss is a great car once you know its strengths and weaknesses. The 2 big strengths are very tough and great acceleration. When you maximize these 2 main points, this car can be competative with any "pro" touring car on the market. The weaknesses that you need to address are 2-speed tranny, sway bars, braking and the differentials. The first 3 points are easily rectified but the diffs are still weak. The car begs for a solid front diff and heavy duty ball diffs. If I had to pick one thing to make this car a winner it would be heavy duty ball diffs. HotBodies already makes a heavy duty one-way but no heavy duty ball diffs (yet). Currently I can only make this car competative for parking lot racing mainly because of the weak diffs. The lack of suspension adjustment is bs. You have a choice of 8 degree and 10 degree front caster which is fine for 90% precent of racing and most racers have no clue why they would need to change caster. Using 2 degree rear hub carriers
is once again 90% of what you use when racing. The real need is for controlling or adjusting the front and rear roll centers. This controls how far, how much and when the car rolls in a turn. This is easily adjusted IF you know what you are doing. Once again the only real weakness is ineffective HPI sway bars. They are useless for reducing roll.
End rant...

[Jetskiboy77]

lol nice rant, id go off on one too supporting you, but im way too tired. Can you do me a favor and get a pic(s) of what you did to the rear shocks or body mounts? I would greatl apprepicate that. Thanks a lot for the help btw, im sry im asking so much, but its rare to see people who have really modded the rs4 3. And the accleration is amazing in this car, and ive seen it take some hard hits and come back for more. Ok im ending this before I start a real rant.

[trw]

rs4lola i only have one thing to question in your rant, but why exactly are the HPI sway bars inaffective? because they are not tightly fastened?

[racer234]

Hey guys, as you may know, I plan on putting the .18 CV-RX in my RS4 3. My question is, what flywheel do I need? I'm not looking for a lightened one or anything special, just a basic flywheel. The current one on my .15 FE is cast, and I've heard that I can't use it. Thanks again. :)

[Kenny T]

I wouldn't say the sway bars aren't completely ineffective. Once, I forgot to put the front sway bar back on after taking the front end off for repair. I noticed the car was behaving different to usual so I'd say it does make a difference, only a little one though. I found the sway bar sitting in the middle of the road BTW.

[Turbo B]

Hey guys, as you may know, I plan on putting the .18 CV-RX in my RS4 3. My question is, what flywheel do I need? I'm not looking for a lightened one or anything special, just a basic flywheel. The current one on my .15 FE is cast, and I've heard that I can't use it. Thanks again. :)

if have the 17 bucks id jus buy the light wright flywheel but after adding the flywheel you'll have to set your idle..

[Turbo B]

I have not broke anything in my driveline using the stock center dogbones and mip cvd. The pin came out twice when I had the .18 cvr installed but no breakage. Definitely
shim ALL drive line drive cups (front/rear/center) as much as possible, put grease in diffs, put 2 set screws in center driveline cups and use diff springs in both f&r diffs. Also use only one o-ring for the center rear dogbone. Adjust rear shim to have zero lash for center rear dogbone. With the design of the rs4-3, the rear diff receives more torque than the front diff. Great for acceleration. Coupled with the short gear final drive, a high rpm motor can really make this car move fast...

lola im still waitin for you to tell me what id have to do to shim the cups and my diffs r not leaking so that means its fine and doesnt need to be rebuilt right?

[rs4lola]

lol nice rant, id go off on one too supporting you, but im way too tired. Can you do me a favor and get a pic(s) of what you did to the rear shocks or body mounts? I would greatl apprepicate that. Thanks a lot for the help btw, im sry im asking so much, but its rare to see people who have really modded the rs4 3. And the accleration is amazing in this car, and ive seen it take some hard hits and come back for more. Ok im ending this before I start a real rant.No problem...but not probably until the weekend...

[rs4lola]

rs4lola i only have one thing to question in your rant, but why exactly are the HPI sway bars inaffective? because they are not tightly fastened?
My rant is based on the assumption that you have already stiffened the chassis and installed much stiffer springs than stock. Once you have done this, the HPI sway bars are no good because they were originally designed for the electric suspension which usually uses a much less stiffer suspension for racing than nitro. I am using HPI proceed 1/8 front springs with a max rating of 55 lb/sq for the front!!! The stock springs are around 20 lb/sq. My front end is roughly more than 2 times stiffer than stock and trins on a dime for parking lot time racing. The stock sway bar is on effective when the suspension is very compressed which will NOT happen with the stiff suspension I have. The main way I have reduced roll is by a steeper angle of the camberlinks with long links in the front and shorter links in the rear. To fine tune the suspension, when I change tire shore rating due to the heat of the track I would also like to have the option to change the sway aswell or instead of. Right now, I can only fine tune the suspension by changing tires...can get very expensive if you like to race for the winners circle.
Just to make it clear...ALL of my suggestions are for racing the rs4-3ss competatively with "pro" cars in parking lot racing only...

[rs4lola]

lola im still waitin for you to tell me what id have to do to shim the cups and my diffs r not leaking so that means its fine and doesnt need to be rebuilt right?Shim the cups basically means to put a washer between the cup and the ball bearing. I used .5mm 5x8 washers all around with at least 3 washers for the center rear drive cup. Half fill your diff cup with grease (Team Associate black grease is good) whenever you check your diff. Does not matter if diff leaks or not. Diff gears need some lubrication.

[josh222]

rs4lola could you take a pic of those braces a little closer up. I just might give you all my front Brace setup on the suspention, makes it so there is no slop in the c-hubs :D

[racer234]

So what flywheel do I need? :p

[Jetskiboy77]

No problem...but not probably until the weekend...


Thanks a lot man. :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Racer234- The flywheel I used with my OS was this Robinson Racing Flywheel. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG76&P=7) The only problem is they discontinued the pullstart one, and ill assume your getting the pullstart OS because you had the "X" at the end. But, if you plan on always using the pullstart, and never trying to start it with a starter box, or any other method besides a pullstart, you can use the non-pull start one. To avoid this though, you may just get a flywheel from another company, but I really liked this flywheel. It was light, vented, and purple.

[F150RTR]

I see some guys here or even in the mags have long tubes running from the exhaust to the fuel tank or from the tank to the carb. where as the factory (out of the box/stock) are way shorter. Whats the benefit (advantage/disadvantage) if any of this long tubed set up?

thanks

[Jetskiboy77]

I think its another way to tune the engine, but I may be wrong.

[josh222]

it is to equilizes the presure pluses coming from the pipe to the tank

[Jetskiboy77]

And whats the point of that?

[josh222]

If i remeber right it smoots out the power band a bit

[Jetskiboy77]

So it tunes the engine. ;)

[F150RTR]

thanks guys

[Jetskiboy77]

No Prob F150.

Does anyone use a front one way diff? I tried it and didnt like it, whats everyone else think about it?

[josh222]

I don't know i haven't used one

[Deznuts05]

I see some guys here or even in the mags have long tubes running from the exhaust to the fuel tank or from the tank to the carb. where as the factory (out of the box/stock) are way shorter. Whats the benefit (advantage/disadvantage) if any of this long tubed set up?

thanks


Ahh... I'm not too sure about what the other guys said but if your racing the more fuel you have the longer you have on the track. So some people will make their tubing longer so they can store more fuel in the lines... so say your racing for more than one tank full, like a 1hr race; the more gas you have, the longer you can wait to have to add fuel which will allow you to make 1-2 more laps on the other guys when they are fuel'n up...

I'm goin to be open minded about the smoother part, but not to rub anyone the wrong way here but... once something is already presurized nothing will smooth it out without some sort of camber. For example, the exhaust system on a real car. At stock form the car is quite but it is not quite because it has more exhaust tubing but it has a muffler (camber).

In theory of longer tubing will smooth out the pulse, extending the exhaust path does increase the path it has to preasurize but it still has to travel in an un-absorbing path which will not smooth out the pulse. Another example your heart... you can still feel the pulse in your wrist and that alot of sq. inch which your blood has to flow, yet you still feel your heart.

I hope this makes sence.
Rudy

[trw]

w00t!!!! just got my new WPR tranny in today! piccy time for yall to drool over it :D

lol ok seriously though, just looking at it it looks a whole lot better then the stock tranny, the clutch is 2x as large, the only complaint i have is that the top of the tranny case doesnt set on the bearings as well as it did on the stock tranny although im hoping an aluminum housing will fix that, you get it on pretty well, its just like 1 or 2 mm off.

gotta wait till tomorrow to actually drive it, gotta let my glow-igniter recharge after siting for over a week.

[trw]

this is the clutch, as you can see its MUCH larger and has very little room between the bell housing and clutch shoes, makes for nice short shifting im sure.

[trw]

and here it is in the car

[Jetskiboy77]

That looks beautiful, im really thinking of getting it.

"but if your racing the more fuel you have the longer you have on the track"

I was talking about pipe to tank. That is for tank to carb, and its 100% right, its for some more fuel. I forgot he asked about that way, I thought he only asked about pipe to tank.

[josh222]

yes that is true, also a few fuel filters will help

[Deznuts05]

Lovely peice! I want one now... I didn't even open my x-mas pressent and I want this one to replace my HPI one :( anyways since everyone is taking pics of their cars I'll post some of mine and hopefully get some pointers if I'm doing the right thing or not. Man I'm so jellious!

[josh222]

lol, i wana see it

[Jetskiboy77]

Lovely peice! I want one now... I didn't even open my x-mas pressent and I want this one to replace my HPI one :( anyways since everyone is taking pics of their cars I'll post some of mine and hopefully get some pointers if I'm doing the right thing or not. Man I'm so jellious!

Wait is your RS4 3 under the tree? Thats such a tease if it is. I dont even have my tree yet.

[Deznuts05]

hehe thanks Josh! here's the link to my site http://deznuts05.no-ip.org/pics/RS4%203/

http://deznuts05.no-ip.org/pics/RS4%203/images/IMG_0081_jpg.jpg

http://deznuts05.no-ip.org/pics/RS4%203/images/IMG_0082_jpg.jpg

http://deznuts05.no-ip.org/pics/RS4%203/images/IMG_0083_jpg.jpg

http://deznuts05.no-ip.org/pics/RS4%203/images/IMG_0086_jpg.jpg

[Deznuts05]

Wait is your RS4 3 under the tree? Thats such a tease if it is. I dont even have my tree yet.

nah but my 2-speed, Ball Bearings, RDL pipe (2 peice?) and I forget what my gf got me. Sticks man I can't wait to get her up and running...

and I'm so thinking about that AE 2-speed... man if I only knew... like who know about this? honestly! and like what parts would I need? I know I've been asking about alot of parts but... it never hurts to ask right hehe!

thanks
rudy

[trw]

tip #1, get adjustable turnbuckles

tip #2, soften your springs a lil

tip #3, actually try different spring combinations

and actually thats not an AE tranny, it just uses an AE clutch and hardware, the hub, first gear adapter etc.... are all custom made by wolfpack radicals.

if you buy the $78 package from WPR, you wont need anything but the spurs to use the tranny.

[Deznuts05]

tip #1, get adjustable turnbuckles

tip #2, soften your springs a lil

tip #3, actually try different spring combinations

and actually thats not an AE tranny, it just uses an AE clutch and hardware, the hub, first gear adapter etc.... are all custom made by wolfpack radicals.

if you buy the $78 package from WPR, you wont need anything but the spurs to use the tranny.

Tip one: good call... hate to ask ya but got a link? like Tower or ebay?

Tip two: if I did that it bottoms out alot I'll get another pic of it tonite

Tip three: I'll be Parking lot racing, so its a short track, asphalt, kind of bumpy. have any recomendations? and other than HPI springs what could fit? thanks!

Aww sweet! I'll check their site

Thanks again
Rudy

[trw]

for turnbuckles, get these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLT79&P=Z

order 3 quantities of them, 2 rods for steering links, 2 rods for front turnbuckles and 2 rods for rear turnbuckles

then get these ball joints: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM471&P=Z

springs just depends on where you drive (bumpy parking lot) and driving style, you'd have to do trial and error.

[Jetskiboy77]

The RD Logics pipe is a one piece. I just ordered it too, but its for Hanukkah, so I get it before I get Christmas presents. :) :) I want your tires theyre "trued" right? Thats when theyre trimmed down to a certain diameter right? They look so cool.

[Deznuts05]

The RD Logics pipe is a one piece. I just ordered it too, but its for Hanukkah, so I get it before I get Christmas presents. :) :) I want your tires theyre "trued" right? Thats when theyre trimmed down to a certain diameter right? They look so cool.

hehe I just asked my gf if I could see my pipe to take a pic of it hehe she was like AHH NO!!! you're not goin to play with that NOW! so I guess its wraped already.

and as for the tires hehe well they are a bit used, not so much trued but yes they are cool... gota love ebay got 2 sets of them for $23 shipped simply lovely!

Rudy

[Jetskiboy77]

Your pipe should look like mine, which would look like this:

RD Logics Pipe (http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_138.htm)

[trw]

that is a LONG stinger!

after X-mas my car should almost be COMPLETLY MODIFIED, after Xmas, i think all that will be stock on my car is differentials, A-arms, hubs, fuel tank and screws.

under the tree lies center universals, aluminum steering assembly, AE titanium turnbuckles, steel brake rotor and carbon pads, heavy duty outdrives, and carbon fiber bulkheads.

[Jetskiboy77]

Carbon fiber bulkheads? Do you have a link to these? Id like to see them. And thats a nice hop-up list, but get ball bearings in the aluminum steering assembly.

[Kenny T]

I haven't driven my RS4 3 with a one way but my Pro3's got one, well, 2 actually. Anyway it's not like I hate it but when I'm running in the street with a quick brushless, brakes are a good thing to have. Since the RS4 3 goes quicker than the Pro3 (for now), I would prefer to have good brakes. Would you sell the one way? It would be good for the track, if I ever do race that is.

[CrankrodsKid]

Hello, i am going to be recieving a rs4 3 evo in a couple days, is there anything i should know, (such as weaknesses, or special break in procedures) that would help me to get off on a good start with my car?

- CrankrodsKid

[trw]

oh yes jetskiboy, i forgot to mention that, i did include bearings with that steering assembly :D

heres the bulkheads, or shock towers as they are called but i like to call em bulkheads.

http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=71585&clist=0,11321,11322,13342
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=71584&clist=0,11321,11322,13342

[Jetskiboy77]

Good, I was gonna say what the hell is a carbon fiber bulkhead for the RS4 3. The funny thing is, is that I have the carbon fiber shock towers from HB, and they look nothing like those! :) Theyre also 2 years old on Christmas, so maybe thats why.

CrankrodsKid- Just follow the manual, and take your time. Trust me dont rush anything, youll feel stupid later on. And be careful, the car is very fast, so avoid the curb. Just take everything easy, no real weak spots, this car is pretty solid.

About the one-way, I hated it in the street, with a great passion. I may try it at the track, but I love having real brakes when I drive this car, I like to break late, and the one way didnt really let me do that with out spinning out. But I will keep it for now. Its only 29$ if you want to pick it up on R/C Boyz, and you can replace the gear that comes with it with a HD one if you have it, or leave the gear that it comes with like I did, it has no signs of wear either, and I really only drifted with it while it was in the car. Just saying that you can swap the gears if you want/strip one, so your not screwed if you do.

[Kenny T]

My brakes don't work well enough so for me switching to a one way wouldn't make a big difference. I got HD gears for the NMT expecting them to strip. The haven't yet, so they're still in their packets. *sigh* I have no money at all at the moment. :( Gotta stop buying more cars and brushless stuff. :o

[josh222]

hey Jetski have you seen those RD pipe with the rectangular stingar? they look kinda cool

[Turbo B]

josh get a pic of it

[Jetskiboy77]

Nah I havent seen it. Can you get a pic?

[racer234]

Hey guys, what pipe do you recommend for the RS4 3? I was looking at the associated ntc3 pipes, since they're cheap, but I think that the pressure line hole will be on the wrong side since the ntc3 has the exhaust exit on the left, whereas the RS4 3 exits on the right. Thats assuming that they have a predrilled pressure line fitting in the first place. Thanks for any help.

[Jetskiboy77]

The NTC3 and RS4 3 are very different cars even though they are both shaft drive. Id doubt that and NTC3 pipe would fit. The NTC3's engine faces the opposite way and is mounted on the opposite side of the car than the RS4 3. Get the RD Logics pipe. Mine should be here tomorrow or Monday, but hopefully tomorrow. Its about 51$ incase your interested, with free shipping.

[Jetskiboy77]

My RD Logics pipe just came. Its already installed and its so........ SHINY. I cant wait to get out and use it, too bad I might have to wait a while. Ordered it Weds. night and its Sat morning, thats come damn good FREE shipping.

[trw]

nevermind

[CrankrodsKid]

Well my RS4 3 is at the post office, too bad its closed today :mad: oooo the agony!!!! lol

[josh222]

the side exhaust pipes for the NTC3 will fit the RS4 3, the presure line goes in the side and will work on either side, also get the hanger that goes with the pipe to

[Jetskiboy77]

How would you connect the manifold to the actual pipe? It wouldnt work.

[josh222]

why wouldn't it fit? the one on my friends fits

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascg1772.jpg

[Jetskiboy77]

My bad Josh, this is the NTC3 pipe I thought we were talking about, and it wont fit.

NTC3 Pipe (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKP0&P=7)

[josh222]

lol, no prob. ya that rear pipe won't work

[racer234]

lol, thanks for looking out for me jetski, but I was looking at the side exhaust one. I think that I'll just spend the money and get the RD Logics pipe, or the THS Pipe. Right now I'm leaning towards the RD. Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it. :)

[T-EVO RACER]

my friend who owns a stock yokomo gt4 but with mugen foams (same shore as mine, both exact same tires) and a infinti g35 body. he says he'll kill my rs4 like no tommorrow (he knows I have all this stuff on my rs4), so who'd you guys think will win our race well have at my local track hopefully during winter break, so who you guys think is gonna win????


Check this, after our race on the on road track, he thinks he'll kill my tmaxx in a race with his revo, but maxx is not a tmaxx, its a T-EVO!!!!

my rs4 3 evo has:

1.sts .12 motor
2.team associated tc3 pipe with the u-turn hpi header
3.mazda 6 body
4.mugen foams
5.hpi tie-rods
6.tmaxx rod ends :D
7.flat five pack holder
lower cg by dropping the reviever flat by the batt. pack
8.5645 hitec steering servo
9.5605 hitec throttle servo
10.aluminium hex hubs
11.mugen threaded aluminium shocks
12.xs3 radio

my tmaxx(T-EVO) has:
1. hitec 5945 steering servo
2. jr 590 throttle servo
3. hardcore cooling head(2.5)
4. bowties
5. hpi q6 wheels
6. hardcore titanium front and back skid plate
7. proline bumper set
8. traxxas hop up chassis
9. ofna ultra gx buggy tank
10. dynamite motor mount
11. reedy batt. pack under the chassis
12. rrp steel spur gear with double slipper clutch
13. rrp steel disc brakes
14. foward only conversion
15. pull start
16. jr xs3 radio
17. traxxas big bore shocks
rs4 on gt4 and tmaxx on revo
who?? who???

[trw]

ah finally got my WPR transmission working a few minutes ago and WOW does it make a huge difference, the shifting is so fast and smooth, and it shifts everytime, not once does it miss a shift.

pay SPECAIL attention to the instructions, re-read them 3 or 4 times, cause the AE clutch is a BIG PAIN to assemble, but once done right it works flawlessly, i had to rebuild mine 3 times before i got it right.

[josh222]

interesting

[Jetskiboy77]

lol, thanks for looking out for me jetski, but I was looking at the side exhaust one. I think that I'll just spend the money and get the RD Logics pipe, or the THS Pipe. Right now I'm leaning towards the RD. Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it. :)

No problem, I own both of those pipes, the THS pipe was amazing, and I have yet to run the RD Logic one. :)

That would be a very close race I think. It should come down to the driver, so concentrate, and good luck.

Im really considering thw Wolf Pack 2 Speed for Christmas/Hanukkah.

[T-EVO RACER]

Yeah, but before I race him gotta make sure my tranny is shifting correct, and see if the spur gears won't stripp like no tommorrow cause my sts.12 motor. Then I gotta tweak my radio and camber and crap because this is an all new setup!!

[Jetskiboy77]

How many spurs have you stripped? Ive never stripped one in my Type SS, ive had the same box stock gears for almost 2 years.

[T-EVO RACER]

only the one set but I was jumpin off curbs, its just because its a sts.12 turbo, that motor hauls!! I just thought the stock spurs weren't that tough, I don't know I'll find out when I run it on the track.

[Jetskiboy77]

If the mesh is good, then the gears should be perfectly fine. Ive had the same gears for 2 years, and they are still in great condition even with a lot of drifting and racing time on them. Not to mention hard street driving with hard acclerating and peel outs, and theyre still great. Just make sure the mesh is right.

[Turbo B]

well with my stock 2speed i havent had the problem of it not shifting.. but what are the pros with the wolfpack 2speed?>

[rs4lola]

well with my stock 2speed i havent had the problem of it not shifting.. but what are the pros with the wolfpack 2speed?>
its is 100% reliable for RACING...The stock tranny has a mind of its own. If you want to race the rs4-3 in competition, the wolfpack tranny is mandatory.
Not only does it shift flawlessy once setup properly, it is heavy duty and can handle high hp racing engines.

[Turbo B]

i guess ill stay with the stock tranny till it goes i jus do the parking lot

[T-EVO RACER]

how much fo' that tranny???!!??

[trw]

78 dollars

[Jetskiboy77]

78$ for the whole tranny except gears and C-clips.
58$ for the tranny minus the first gear adaptor, gears, and C-clips.

[trw]

WPR 1st gear adpter is recommended if you want that extra durability, cause it comes with their industrial grade one way bearing.

[F150RTR]

Ok guys need help here. I got the venom speed meter, well after spending hours trying to figure out where to put the magnet the damn thing doesnt work.
I have a HPI RS4 3 RTR, in the instructions it says that the venom draws power from the car , saw i have to put the thingy in the reciever. My car (stock reciever) has only two ports (no free third one), so the instructions say diconnect one of the servo plugs and then plug the venom in its place in the reciver and plug the servo in a venom port and everything should work. When i did that I unpluged the steering from the reciver and put it in to the venom, when i turn the power on the venom works, the throttle works but not the steering, so i switch with the throttle,now the steering works but the throttle doesnt. I dont know if iam missing something here so please help, or is there something wrong with the venom itself (bought new)?

thanks

[Jetskiboy77]

WPR 1st gear adpter is recommended if you want that extra durability, cause it comes with their industrial grade one way bearing.

Really? I thought it was the same as the HPI one. If I order one though ill stay with the HPI one and save the 20$, especially since ive never really had a problem with any parts of the RS4 3 2 Speed.

[trw]

yea, the guy i emailed said the one-way on the stock tranny had a problem with failing overtime, so they stuck in an industrial grade one-way that would withstand alot more abuse.

[F150RTR]

Ok guys need help here. I got the venom speed meter, well after spending hours trying to figure out where to put the magnet the damn thing doesnt work.
I have a HPI RS4 3 RTR, in the instructions it says that the venom draws power from the car , saw i have to put the thingy in the reciever. My car (stock reciever) has only two ports (no free third one), so the instructions say diconnect one of the servo plugs and then plug the venom in its place in the reciver and plug the servo in a venom port and everything should work. When i did that I unpluged the steering from the reciver and put it in to the venom, when i turn the power on the venom works, the throttle works but not the steering, so i switch with the throttle,now the steering works but the throttle doesnt. I dont know if iam missing something here so please help, or is there something wrong with the venom itself (bought new)?

thanks

[rs4lola]

Really? I thought it was the same as the HPI one. If I order one though ill stay with the HPI one and save the 20$, especially since ive never really had a problem with any parts of the RS4 3 2 Speed.
Hopping up this rs4-3ss definitely costs money. If you do upgrade to the WPR tranny spend the extra $20 as it is insurance when or if you upgrade your engine especially if it is a racing .12 or any of the os .18 engines. The drivetrain is very weak if you upgrade to a high hp engine.
I have upgraded everything in the drivetrain except the rear diff spider gears. No problems whatsoever, accelerates like mad and shifts EVERY time...

[rs4lola]

Ok guys need help here. I got the venom speed meter, well after spending hours trying to figure out where to put the magnet the damn thing doesnt work.
I have a HPI RS4 3 RTR, in the instructions it says that the venom draws power from the car , saw i have to put the thingy in the reciever. My car (stock reciever) has only two ports (no free third one), so the instructions say diconnect one of the servo plugs and then plug the venom in its place in the reciver and plug the servo in a venom port and everything should work. When i did that I unpluged the steering from the reciver and put it in to the venom, when i turn the power on the venom works, the throttle works but not the steering, so i switch with the throttle,now the steering works but the throttle doesnt. I dont know if iam missing something here so please help, or is there something wrong with the venom itself (bought new)?

thanks
The connection needs to go THRU the venom not just TO the venom meter.
1. disconnect throttle/steering wire from receiver
2. connect throttle/steering wire to venom meter
3. connect venom meter wire to where you just diconnected the throttle/steering wire on the receiver

[F150RTR]

The connection needs to go THRU the venom not just TO the venom meter.
1. disconnect throttle/steering wire from receiver
2. connect throttle/steering wire to venom meter
3. connect venom meter wire to where you just diconnected the throttle/steering wire on the receiver


So what you are saying is to disconnect both the throttle and steering and then do the connections.
because i did what you typed. the only difference(i dont know if it means anything) you said disconnect (for example throttle) connect it to the venom then connect the venom to the receiver. What i did is i disconnected the throttle, connected the venom to receiver then i connected the throttle to the venom.

[josh222]

you must have something set up wrong

[T-EVO RACER]

I might get that tranny, if I'm have probs with my stock tranny. But if it runs consistant on the track I'll be fine.

[CrankrodsKid]

Will it be ok to run my Mugen-Seiki 20% nitro in this car? i am wondering because tower hobbies says to run 10-15%, my mugen is 20% with 12% lubrication.....

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats the gas ive been running for about the last year or maybe more. It depends on the engine btw, not the actual car, but yes you can use that fuel.

[delphidude]

is the centax clutch worth the money? i plan on putting an os 18 cv-rx because of its high power and low cost. the piolet shaft is the same price. i plan on getting the wpr 2 speed and was wondering if i should upgrade the clutch at the same time.