Kyosho FW-05R/FW-05RR

[StevePond]

I'll just add to that a little. The "R" series is the race-bred cars and the "S" series are the sport versions. This may already be obvious, but just in case it wasn't...

As for which car, I've driven both the V-One-RR Evo and the original version of the FW-05R with the fiberglass upper deck and the gear diffs front and rear. The FW-05R was significantly better. Quicker acceleration, faster corner speeds, etc. It basically did everything a little better than the belt car. Add to that the fact that it's shaft drive and requires less maintenance and I would choose it over the belt car every time. The newer version of the FW-05R with the front one-way and the graphite upper plate only further confirms the choice for me.

[uaerc]

It's in a red box. Look for kit no. 31582 It had a front one-way, graphite upper deck and foam tires. As for the engine, you need to tell us if you plan to race and if there's any rules regulating engine specs.

Thanks Steve...

Well I already have a V one RR with 12 TR engine just replaced the piston sleeve on it so its a new engine in all can be used for racing I think as its a legal 3 port.

So I was thinking of a high end engine for fun and racing aswell. The main idea of buying a FW is coz we are planning to make a team for 1/10 scale touring cars.

Thats the main reason to look for a good reliable engine.....

Cheers
Aziz

[StevePond]

I'd say the top three are Novarossi, Sirio and OS. A competition engine from any of these manufacturers will serve you well.

[stillborngod]

I thought I saw that a 4 stroke FW-05 was coming out. (FW-05FS) Does anyone know anything about it?

[NiMo]

Not sure about a 4-stroke kit, but Kyosho have recently released 4-stroke conversion kits for the FW05,V-one RRR & SII.
Check in the Japanese section of the Kyosho Japan site.

[ProF1TOOL]

This car is awesome. I was doing some suspension testing for an upcoming race yesterday and the car was clearly the fastest on the track in the hands of three different drivers. It will only get better when I get the 37t gears then I'll be able to run tires smaller than 62mm.

I've already converted my friend from his Evolution.

[NiMo]

don't tell everyone, we need that unfair advantage for just a little longer.

[ProF1TOOL]

I need someone to bum parts off of.

[ProF1TOOL]

The car was awesome in the race today with the 37t ring gears. I set TQ and track record against the OFNA and MUGEN drivers. I didn't have much luck with the engine though seeing that my glowplug died 5 minutes through the main.

[ProF1TOOL]

By the way I race at Revelation Raceway. www.revrace.com (site of 2003 sedan nationals)

[StevePond]

Sounds like you had a good run! Congrats. How long is the back straight there? I've been thinking of ordering the 37T ring gear but I'm not sure that I'll need it.

[ProF1TOOL]

It's 160ft. The powerband is a lot smoother with the 37T gears. I think all the Kyosho drivers are running them now.

[rc addict]

HEY EVERYBODY I NEED ALOT OF HELP.

tomorrow i am either ordering a kyosho V1 RR , V1RR evo, or fw-05r. However i am probably not able to afford the fw-o5r.

I NEED TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE V1RR EVO AND THE REGULAR V1 RR. are both roar legal? is one better than the other? please let me know asap because tomorrow is the day. I do not want to buy the wrong v1 if one is different than the other. I want to race roar legal. (if i get enough money, i will then buy the fwo5r because of what i have read and heard about it.)

Thanks,
RC ADDICT :D

[NiMo]

HEY EVERYBODY I NEED ALOT OF HELP.

tomorrow i am either ordering a kyosho V1 RR , V1RR evo, or fw-05r. However i am probably not able to afford the fw-o5r.

I NEED TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE V1RR EVO AND THE REGULAR V1 RR. are both roar legal? is one better than the other? please let me know asap because tomorrow is the day. I do not want to buy the wrong v1 if one is different than the other. I want to race roar legal. (if i get enough money, i will then buy the fwo5r because of what i have read and heard about it.)

Thanks,
RC ADDICT :D

The RR is the same as the R apart from a rear end to suit Lola style shells.
The Evo has a revised servo layout which lowers the centre of gravity, but results with the evo are not as expected.
Best to go for the RRR if you prefer belt drive. or the FW05 if you prefer Shaft drive.
If you are starting from scratch you may want to consider the FW05S, which (for a change) can be fully upgraded in to 05R spec.

[rc addict]

wow thank you so much nimo, so what you are saying is the rr evo is basicaly the same as the rr, except the price is jacked up for a revised steering servo layout. i would get the fw-o5r or the rrr which i have heard about as well, but the rrr is just too expensive also. further question: what is different with the rrr? do you know any where to get the rrr at a lower cost? please show me a couple websites. also, i got more money so i am delaying the buying date till a week or two later, i received a gift certificate to my lhs :D , thank you very much for the advice.

-RC ADDICT

[rc addict]

i am also thinking of making my rear foams harder than the fronts so i can get some oversteer and get the back to swing i little more do you recomend this?

[uaerc]

RC addict

Whats the budget you have ? for the full deal.

[NiMo]

i am also thinking of making my rear foams harder than the fronts so i can get some oversteer and get the back to swing i little more do you recomend this?

Fit the RRR front hubs to your 05, you will get loads more steering without loosening the rear.

[rc addict]

thanks nimo i didnt realize at the time you could swap some parts from the rrr to the 05, that is a great idea.

[rc addict]

hey uaerc,
my budget is about 390 dollars for the kit alone. the money for getting servos, radio gear, fuel ,extra tires, engine and etc. ill worry about a little later. do you have any advice?

[uaerc]

Rc Addict.

See when I Started racing about a couple years ago, the first car I got was the V one RR with a OS 12 TR, with the limited choices we have here in our country turned in my side since I had to get a Kyosho coz thats the only availabe car here, xcept for the serpent and tamiya. Now, With that kind of money you have I would suggest you go for the FW - 05 R which I believe and know is the best 1/10 car around in the market.. ( I am not Saying this alone) its been proven in this Touring Cars Magazine. They raced 10 cars with the same specs and the Fw05r came the winner.

Well thats that.........its your call ......make a wise decidison


cheer
Aziz

[NiMo]

I have had a few Nitro cars in recent years:
Kyosho Pure Ten Spider Mk1 & Mk2 (how it started at my club)
Mugen MTX2 (good car in its day)
Yokomo GT4 (Nightmare car - wrote it off in 5 weeks - very oversteery)
Kyosho V-one R (I thought this was the ultimate car)
Kyosho V-one S (had for Kyosho Cup, better than R on slippery tracks)
Kyosho FW05R (I now think this is the ultimate car)

Up until the FW05, every car had oversteer which had to be dialled out before I could find a set up, but the FW05 comes with understeer, so I was able to start looking for a set up right away, and that took very little time compared to the other cars.

[rc addict]

well i went to the hobby shop today and ordered the fw05r. pretty cheap too; 300 dollars flat. I expected 319 or 330. So i made a deposit and beleive it or not it was out of stock in the warehouse so im on backorder. it should come in about two weeks. I'm really excited from what ive heard about the kit and for the money, i know what to expect. thanks alot for your help and in a little while, ill tell you how i like it. :) your advice certainly has helped alot and that goes for all of you.

Thanks a ton,
Rc Addict

[NiMo]

It would be worth you getting the Machined Steel Diff Rings of either 37T or 39T, they are much stronger than the kit supplied 40T Cast Steel Diff Rings and they allow the drivetrain to run much freer.
They are about $38 each but are worth every penny (or is that cent ?)

[rc addict]

thanks for the advice nimo, i will definitly invest 38 dollars into that. as for now though i ordered the car and made a 70 dollar deposit. the rest of the 300 dollars ill pay when it comes so, i now have to save up money for electronics, engine, parts, etc. and then come the hop ups. man ive got a long way ahead of me... :rolleyes:

-rc addict

[rc addict]

oh by the way the hobby shop used to have an outdoor track next to it but its gone now, and they have an underground indoor track in the building. the second story is dedicated to all rc. but the track i think is meant for electric only because its indoors but supposedly a couple times a year theyll have a gas rc competition with fans to take care of the carbon monoxide thats released... jw if they really would do that...

[NiMo]

I ran at the Kyosho European finals in Switzerland in 1999, this was held in an ice rink, the ice was removes and a matting placed on the concrete floor.
After the 1st five or six practice runs no one could see the track, it was only then they realised the extractor fan were not on, but once they were on the smoke vanished for the rest of the event, unfortunately I was disqualified (and so was others) for using a recognised hop up front shock tower which was missed out on the event trackside rules (but was in the events briefing pack).

[adder]

There's a good indoor track not far from me and NiMo that is also an indoor shooting range: they've got both extractors and roller doors all down one side. It's quite a novelty running nitro indoors in the warm and dry in the winter! Get's a bit noisy though...

Nige: I've just bought Dave's FW-05, when I get my act together I'll be over to Aldershot. Your recommendation on the clutch setting seems to be about spot-on ;).

Can you get the steel ring gears readily in the UK now? Spares were a bit sparse when Dave first got it...

[NiMo]

The UK importer doesn't even know the FW05 exists let alone have spares for it.
I have been supplying the parts for the other two FW05 drivers at Aldershot, and that's only when they need them (which is not that often).

[uaerc]

.........Machined Steel Diff Rings of either 37T or 39T, they are much stronger than the kit supplied 40T Cast Steel Diff Rings

hey Nimo......

can you give me a link.......for this.

I am getting my Kit tommorrow its the GRP Foam tire version. I need just an engine everything else is ready and waiting...for it to arrive. I have decided on OS 12 TR- T version. Do you know much about this engine.

Thanks
Aziz

[NiMo]

OS are unknown in the UK.
I run a JP FX T03, it has more than enough power so requires taller gearing.

FW05 Parts (http://rc-union.com/index.php?cPath=35_75_77_92)

[uaerc]

Hi

Finally i recd the red box today.......its looks awesome the parts everything
I like the dog bones they are anodized blue.......i think of aluminium or something....... short of an engine now everything is ready to go hopefully it will be ready thiss thursday.

I chose a Skline GTR body (no choice :)) .......190mm i think Hope it fits they told me it does.......i think it will......dunnnoo lets see.....

what diff oils are being used by you guys and whats the shock oil should i start with stock ?

regards
aziz

[uaerc]

Hey Nimo

I am stranded right now......dont have a HEADER !! there is no header available here can you guys help me our My fwo5r is sitting with OS 12 TR T engine and OS Speed tuned pipe...now which is the best header for this pipe so i can order online........

anyone ?

[NiMo]

I don't know the pipe, but maybe you could fit a 1/8th buggy header.

[rc addict]

ive got a question... when i ordered the fw05r from my lhs, i didnt specify if i wanted the foam tire version or the slick tire version. the kit was 300. would they probably just give me the rubber tire version, because this is not what i want. I dont know if i could get the foam tire version for 300 flat... besides the tires, the rest of the kit is the same, right???
please get back to me asap thanks

-rc addict

[NiMo]

31581 - Rubber Tyre Kit (rear end only fits up to 26mm wheels)
31581B - Foam Tyre Kit (has different rear end to fit 30mm foams)
31582 - Foam kit with one way (usually at $375)

[uaerc]

31581 - Rubber Tyre Kit (rear end only fits up to 26mm wheels)
31581B - Foam Tyre Kit (has different rear end to fit 30mm foams)
31582 - Foam kit with one way (usually at $375)

Hi

I got the 31581B - its a really stable car. just did a test drive and it was straight as a bullet, quite fast But i just felt that it could be faster still. with a tr 12 T engine with 25% nitro the CaR Screams!!!!

Will take it to the track once the body shell is done..

The only problem at the moment is the RX which does not have a cover, any ideas to fix this ?! Rubber cover is what most of them recommended, would like to know if someone has better ideas.

I cut up a OFNA LD3 header to attach to a OS muffler and had to drill holes in the pipe to change the nipples directions.

And the 1/8th header's too big for the car.

RC addict.

The foam Tires version has a different size swingshafts. to accomodate the slighty bigger rear tires. I think. I got it for around 300$ something.

Cheers
zooz

[uaerc]

A question for the setup GURU's.

I had once given my car for setup to one of the guys at the local track.

He used 15wt 25wt and soft tamiya springs for the setup on the car. Making the shocks really soft. A little hard in the front

Tamiya Yellow springs in the back 15wt oil
Tamiya Blue Springs in the front 25wt oil

This was done for the V one RR I had..

Qs.1 Now for the FW05 R can I use the same setup....As the stock setup for the car comes with Black Springs and 500 Wt oil. ???

qs 2 The difference in driving with the front one way and TCD. Has anyone used this in the front diffs.

qs3. Are the Kyosho Tune pipes better that the OS Pipes.

Regards
zooz

[NiMo]

uaerc - you have PM

[rc addict]

well if i get the wrong one, i guess i could always tell them its not what i wanted and lose two weeks on absolutely nothing waiting for it and then wait possibly more time trying to get the one i want....

[rc addict]

i cant beleive they didnt ask me what specific model number or particular type of fwo5r i wanted, i completely forgot and then left the store with my receipt :mad:

[rc addict]

ok scratch all that, i just called up the lhs and tracked the order its the foam tire version with the front one way!!! GOOD STUFF :)
thanks for all of your help
RC ADDICT

[rc addict]

Finally the day has come and i got the call and i picked up the fw-o5r , is there anybody who can give me some advice or something to be aware about before i build the kit? and also, are the instuctions fairly easy? i see alot of japanese and english writing on the instructions...

[rc addict]

one last question, will i need glue or any tools that are not commonly found in a household or any other items not included...

[NiMo]

Take youe time with the shims on the Diff, get the meshing wrong between the diff ring and the imput shaft and you will strip the diff rings in no time, but if you have already got the Option Steel Diff Rings then the shiming is not anywhere near as critical.

I have also found applying a bit of grease to the screws before you screw them in to the plastic can save on stripped threads.

[uaerc]

Hi

I am currently running this car on the straights. I read somewhere that is bad for this car if done that way.. But we do a lot of drag races at times coz our race track is not in a convenient location. So what would be the best gearing to run this car for drags...

Cheers
Aziz

[NiMo]

Could try this:
Fit an MTX3 clutch bell, 39T steel diff rings, 20/51 1st, 29/50 2nd.
You may want to lock the font diff too.

[solaris_61]

Hi. Sorry, my english is very bad.

I would like to know the differences betwen the FW-05S and the FW-05R. I know the first one is the sport version and de R is for races, but what i want to know is the main differences in the components and the mechanics.

In one word, what are the first and main changes that i will have to do in a FW-05S to upgrade it to the R version? Eg. 2-speed transmission, chassis 7075 3mm, one-way, engine, etc. (???)

I don't have enought money to buy a FW-05R so i decided to buy the S version to upgrade it step by step.

thanks

[pleaseletmeon34]

I think the only difference between the two is the 2 speed and the shocks. Now that's if your comparing the "s" to the rubber tired "r" kit.

[NiMo]

If you look closely you will see a number if differences between the S and the Rubber version of the R:
2-speed
Chassis
Shocks
Fuel Tank
Top Deck
Radio Mounting Assembly
Diff Internals
Central Dive Shafts
I could go on as there are more differences if compared to the Foam version.

So I think you should ask, What do I need to make the S competitive?
In Order:
2-Speed
.12 Motor and Pipe
Fuel Tank and mount
Shocks.
Then the other parts only when you feel you need them.

[solaris_61]

Ok, thanks.

I think FW05S is a good choose for a begginer. I'll buy the 2-speed when i buy the car.

[NiMo]

Ok, thanks.

I think FW05S is a good choose for a begginer. I'll buy the 2-speed when i buy the car.

I've tested one I sold to a customer and in a 5 minute run was only 1½ laps slower than my 'A main' FW05R, the only mod was the 2-speed.

[NiMo]

FW05RR to be shown to the public at the Tokyo Model Show Oct 2/3

[uaerc]

Heard its already released to the singa pore Mkt.

Anyways, is there any other way apart from the changing of Hubs of RRR to make the fw05 R turn more. Coz when the ATV on the radio is increased it touches the brake holder......

Cheers
Aziz

[NiMo]

Heard its already released to the singa pore Mkt.

Anyways, is there any other way apart from the changing of Hubs of RRR to make the fw05 R turn more. Coz when the ATV on the radio is increased it touches the brake holder......

Cheers
Aziz
No.
RRR hubs are only $5

[uaerc]

I ran the car today at the car park just to get the feel of it.. infact all three of us did...the problems.....car handles well in all aspects..but.......

turning......rrrhubs ! ok wil try to get them..thats done.

since the engine mount is facing forward. the large air filter of the OS 12 tr covers up the engine head which leads to heating.....this i am saying coz after 1 1/2 tanks on the car non stop the engine quit. As I have seen the pro's run their car for atleast an hour without stopping this shouldnt happen. I feel this is the reason not enough cooling or else otherwise....... BTW the engine was on the richer side......

One more thing I wanted to find out how do i losen up the 2nd speed clutch a bit coz in my car's case it engages a little late. Now I beleive it has to be done by removing the whole casing ? or is there any other way.

Cheers.
Aziz

[NiMo]

I ran the car today at the car park just to get the feel of it.. infact all three of us did...the problems.....car handles well in all aspects..but.......

turning......rrrhubs ! ok wil try to get them..thats done.

since the engine mount is facing forward. the large air filter of the OS 12 tr covers up the engine head which leads to heating.....this i am saying coz after 1 1/2 tanks on the car non stop the engine quit. As I have seen the pro's run their car for atleast an hour without stopping this shouldnt happen. I feel this is the reason not enough cooling or else otherwise....... BTW the engine was on the richer side......

One more thing I wanted to find out how do i losen up the 2nd speed clutch a bit coz in my car's case it engages a little late. Now I beleive it has to be done by removing the whole casing ? or is there any other way.

Cheers.
Aziz

Motor:
Did you remember to turn the head 90 degrees?
Most head have a cooling vent for one direction, and as most motors are for belt cars with the motor across the car the head is set up for them, but our motor sit along the car so the head is on wrong.

2ND gear:
in the 2nd gear spur there is a small hole, this is to allow a hex driver in to the 2nd gear clutch to be able to adjust it.
To get the 2nd gear to bite earlier you would have to loosen (anti-clockwise)both screws on the 2nd gear shoe, try half a turn first to see what it does.

[uaerc]

Thanks...will do that....

[uaerc]

HI Nimo

Motor : When I look at the Motor Head from the front then I can see the spark plug, which I beleive is the correct position. Obvisously from the Side I can only see the fins...what do you think ?

2nd Gear. : I am playing at 3 turns on the 2nd gear hex nut. I felt that it was touching the housing so I have got it trimmed a bit so we can open one more turn. The 2nd gear is engaging much quicker now......thanks for your help.

Have ordered some GPM parts.... carbon deck, carbon sus plate. fr. and rr.

What setup system are you using....have you heard of PMB ? is that good ?
Dream setup system at the moment is Hudy all in one...but its $$$ 300/- bit to high for me right now. But never the less will arrange a 3 guys to pitch in the $$ and share the system. :)

regards
Aziz

[NiMo]

I assume you are calling the front where the carb and clutch is ?

The set-up system I have is sold in the UK under the 'Fastrack' name, it it the purple alloy one, I had the earlier Hudy but found the printing hard to see after a bit of use.

[uaerc]

yes....you assumed correctly ! :)

Attached a picture of my FW-05R ...... sorry for the bad quality pic, coz I took it from my K700i ;)

Regards
azuz

[uaerc]

Hi

Update on my recent race at the track. Had a bump on the side and the front right side tire cracked. literally cracked witha soft bang. The tyres are GRP Power tyres.

The problem it crashed was the servo.. after a few laps the servo started to misbehave.... I didnt understand why. Someone told me that the chasis was heated up and the servo is so close to thechasis...could be a reaseon !.

I really didnt get that. Could be the dust as our track is loaded with it. The RX was covered with dust aswell. need to put some protection on it aswell.

The other 2 FW's had a servo arm broken again coz of the slippery track. The third car lost a suspension arm. front and tires same like me.

Regards
Aziz

[NiMo]

Hi

Update on my recent race at the track. Had a bump on the side and the front right side tire cracked. literally cracked witha soft bang. The tyres are GRP Power tyres.

The problem it crashed was the servo.. after a few laps the servo started to misbehave.... I didnt understand why. Someone told me that the chasis was heated up and the servo is so close to thechasis...could be a reaseon !.

I really didnt get that. Could be the dust as our track is loaded with it. The RX was covered with dust aswell. need to put some protection on it aswell.

The other 2 FW's had a servo arm broken again coz of the slippery track. The third car lost a suspension arm. front and tires same like me.

Regards
Aziz
Don't think you can blame the car this time, as it sounds like a track problem (too much dust)
I run a cover over the receiver to protect mainly from the damp, but it could also protect from the dust
(dust in the receiver is not good)
http://www.brcascalerubber.org.uk/04Reports/Aldershot/Images/kyosho.1.jpg

[franknitty69]

i just bought a fw-05r and i just found out that kyosho has released a 'special' version.

does anybody know what the differences between the regular and special one are?

Kyosho FW-05R Special (http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0480.html)

thanks

[NiMo]

i just bought a fw-05r and i just found out that kyosho has released a 'special' version.

does anybody know what the differences between the regular and special one are?

Kyosho FW-05R Special (http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0480.html)

thanks

It's nothing more than the 31582 Foam Tyre kit with the upgraded chassis, top deck front one-way.

[franknitty69]

okay,

i already got the one-way when i bought the car. am i good with kawahara or 3racing chassis upgrades?

actually nimo what kawahara or 3racing upgrades do you recommend?

thanks

[NiMo]

okay,

i already got the one-way when i bought the car. am i good with kawahara or 3racing chassis upgrades?

actually nimo what kawahara or 3racing upgrades do you recommend?

thanks

I have tried a few upgrades but found most a waste of time and some makes the car worse.

Good Upgrades:
Kyosho V1 RRR Front Hubs
Kyosho 37T Steel Diff Rings
Kfactory Pinion Gears
3Racing centre Gearbox Housing
Tobee Alloy Disk Brake Holder
Kyosho's new one piece FW05 pipe

I have tried Carbon shock towers but the cars appears to be too solid for them so they keep snapping where as the standard ones last much longer even though they flex, the car also handles better with the flexing shock towers (you need to run softer springs though).

[franknitty69]

i feel jilted that i just bought a FW-05R and it is now discontinued. The replacement is the FW-05R Special Chassis. I was immediately wanting to the know the differences to see it even warrants a return.

i got both part listings put them into a database and queried the stock numbers that were on the special but not on the 'regular'.

anyway the excel spreadsheet is posted Tech Empire Racing (http://www.techempire.net/racing/rc/) here for anybody who wants to turn their 'regular' into a 'special'.

[NiMo]

i feel jilted that i just bought a FW-05R and it is now discontinued. The replacement is the FW-05R Special Chassis. I was immediately wanting to the know the differences to see it even warrants a return.

i got both part listings put them into a database and queried the stock numbers that were on the special but not on the 'regular'.

anyway the excel spreadsheet is posted Tech Empire Racing (http://www.techempire.net/racing/rc/) here for anybody who wants to turn their 'regular' into a 'special'.

Not sure where you got this word 'special' from, is it an American thing?

Kit 31581 was released about 15 months ago as the Rubber tyred kit.
Kit 31581B was released at the same time as the Foam tyred kit.
Kit 31582 was released early 2004 with Shimo chassis and front one-way and cost about $75 more than the 31581 kits.
The latest version of the FW05, the FW05RR has yet to be given a release date.

The FW05R, FW05S and FW05T can all be upgraded to the FW05RR.
It's probably the only kit available where the base model version can be upgraded to the full race version.

[franknitty69]

Nimo,

I got this from the us kyosho website. the part # is: 31582B

I was trying to get an exploded view of my new car when the old link no longer worked. They moved 31582 to discontinued.

i wanted to know what the differences were becuase i just bought this car like two days ago. thank god it's compatible.

[pleaseletmeon34]

Whats the part # on the kit you have now Frank?

[NiMo]

31582B is not a known number, must be only for the US market.
31582 is not discontinued.

[pleaseletmeon34]

NiMo, I don't think there is any difference between them
Your right about the "B" designation. The only kits available here are the 31581B, and 31582B.

[NiMo]

31581B was the foam version of 31581 and had different length rear drive shafts to fit 30mm foams.
31582 was only sold as a foam kit, so maybe that's where the B comes in.

[pleaseletmeon34]

Sorry I guess I didn't make that clear. I don't think there is any difference between the 31582 and the 31582B. Except for the "B".

[franknitty69]

Whats the part # on the kit you have now Frank?
the part # on the one i just got is 31582

[franknitty69]

in a quest to know everything possible about this car. (getting ready for spring baby!!!), i read this entire thread last night.

i had a question about square products. i couldn't find any links and i just wanted to verify that it wasn't rc-square.com that you guys were referring to.

also are there any specs for the FW-05RR? i wanted to see what parts i would need to upgrade.

thanks

[franknitty69]

nimo,

that's very interesting about these part #'s. i'm not sure what that means. in the u.s., #31581B is on kyosho's discontinued list. and you can't find #31582 on the website at all (i had a link book marked last week, this link no longer works). the only FW-05R is the #31582B 'Foam Tire Special Chassis Kit'.

i sent kyosho an email to try to clear this debacle up. and i will let everyone know what the deal is.

at the end of the day i just want to make sure that the car i just bought won't become obsolete in one week.

[ProF1TOOL]

The "B" is for foam tire versions. There is a 31582 which includeds a front diff and shorter rear axles/dogbones for rubber tire use. It is only available in Asia.

[ProF1TOOL]

Franknitty69- Although your car won't be obsolete, there will be parts that improve the car's performance. Most dramatic, are the changes to V-One RRR front and rear hubs. It depends on the size of track you run on too. The car is fine for a smallish meduim to small track. Only on the big tracks do the flaws of the car surface. At any rate, you'll be able to purchase a conversion kit in the future and switch the hubs in the mean time. I have already done the latter.

You can not stop this car on a high bite track.

[NiMo]

in a quest to know everything possible about this car. (getting ready for spring baby!!!), i read this entire thread last night.

i had a question about square products. i couldn't find any links and i just wanted to verify that it wasn't rc-square.com that you guys were referring to.

also are there any specs for the FW-05RR? i wanted to see what parts i would need to upgrade.

thanks

Square Products (http://www.rc-square.com/parts03.htm)
3racing (http://www.3racing.com.hk/options.jsp?manu_id=Kyosho&carkit=FW05)
Kfactory (http://www.kfactoryracing.com/products/right/FW05R-a.html)
Tobee (http://www3.kcn.ne.jp/~tobee/FW05%20english.htm)
Hardest part is finding a dealer that stocks the parts

[franknitty69]

much obliged nimo.

[uaerc]

Hi

I was at my local track this friday at the seasons race and took part in my race there...I came third in the qualifiers. but lost out due to engine heat up in the finals..... not bad for a start though......

The problems I faced.....

The guys at the track are usally on v one S's and V one R's and one FW O5s on the track.... All of these guys except the FW05's guy are on slicks.. as per stock i think and the latter on foams.....with orange springs in rear and yellow in front (fwo5)

Since my car was slipping to much at turns, and not as stable as all the other cars...... i was wondering wwhat was wrong..... is it the tires due to a lot of sand on the track....... or is it the springs which is stock (black) too hard may be ?

I am a bit confused......can anyone guide me here...

Cheers
Aziz

[uaerc]

Don't think you can blame the car this time, as it sounds like a track problem (too much dust)
I run a cover over the receiver to protect mainly from the damp, but it could also protect from the dust
(dust in the receiver is not good)
http://www.brcascalerubber.org.uk/04Reports/Aldershot/Images/kyosho.1.jpg

Nimo

Thanks for posting the pic, helped a lot. Are you using kyosho springs in the front and rear or any other brand.
Can you also tell me the distance of the shock spring adjuster, I think its 5mm stock ? rear

It also appears that you are using slick tyres...did u have to change anything in the rear to get on the 24mm slicks all around ?

[Robert-FW05]

This should be original Kyosho springs, part number 92491. The greens ones on the front are medium and have exactly the same spring-rate as the black ones that come with the kit. On the rear there seems to be the yellow ones, which are one step harder. A pretty unusual setup (front medium, rear hard) but the fw05 has so much rear-traction that it may work. On my V-One i often used green and 50wt on front and orange (soft) and 30wt on rear. But with this setup i have much to less steering on my Fw-05 so i will change to 35wt an black/green springs and try that out. Also you can drive identical shore-numbers on front and rear while at the v-one i had a difference of at last 5 shore.

Robert

[NiMo]

Nimo

Thanks for posting the pic, helped a lot. Are you using kyosho springs in the front and rear or any other brand.
Can you also tell me the distance of the shock spring adjuster, I think its 5mm stock ? rear

It also appears that you are using slick tyres...did u have to change anything in the rear to get on the 24mm slicks all around ?

Do not use the stiff springs with Rubber tyres.
The springs I use are the hop up option for the older Spider Mk2 car (pack of 3 sets, orange/green/yellow), they are much softer than the original kit springs, the dampers use 40wt Trinity oil with kit pistons.
I run a ride height of 5mm up front and 7mm at rear, the spring adjusters are set to give me that ride height.
The slick tyres are Sorex tyres with Echo J4430S inserts on 24mm ING 0.8 wheels and they fit on to the car with no modifying.
Rear Diff oil is 600wt and front is 50,000wt, this will make the car move a little under hard braking.

[franknitty69]

this is my 1st time with a pivot-ball suspension set-up. i just wanted to know how loose/tight the pivot ball adjusters should be. i have them set so that hubs are kind of 'limp'. (if i hold the hub and let it go it falls down w/out any resistance).

or should it be set so that they only move with slight pressure.

thanks

[NiMo]

this is my 1st time with a pivot-ball suspension set-up. i just wanted to know how loose/tight the pivot ball adjusters should be. i have them set so that hubs are kind of 'limp'. (if i hold the hub and let it go it falls down w/out any resistance).

or should it be set so that they only move with slight pressure.

thanks

I set mine to be as free as possible but with as little play as possible.

[franknitty69]

i've followed the instructions for the rear sway bar so that 3mm is sticking out of the ball stopper. i've also set the width of the sway bar rod 5.5mm but the sway bar adjustable rod is touching the rear lower arms.

http://www.techempire.net/images/temp/DSC00019.JPG

can i reduce the length of the sway bar sticking out (3mm to 2mm) or is something else wrong?

thanks

[franknitty69]

it seems as if my rear wheelbase is too short. when i put the rear wheels on. one side ended up touching the hub. i'm using the shiny wheel shafts up front and the black wheel shafts in the rear.

http://www.techempire.net/images/temp/DSC00020.JPG

[NiMo]

Frankie, those ball joints should be in the upper holes.
and you should have the drive cups with the 2mm spacers on the rear.

[Robert-FW05]

The springs I use are the hop up option for the older Spider Mk2 car (pack of 3 sets, orange/green/yellow), they are much softer than the original kit springs...

As i said above, the part number should be 92491 and i am pretty sure that not all spring are softer than the springs shipped with the kit. I measured them some time ago and got these spring-rates: orange = 200gr/mm, black/green = 250gr/mm, yellow = 325gr/mm.

Next, i think the rear stabilizer bar is mounted correctly in the lower holes of the suspension arm. I refer to the official manual of the r-version. Furthermore, only this position ensures that the stabilizer bar ist some kind of parallel to the lower suspension arms and does not interfer with the dampers or the upper arms. you should be able to ensure smooth movement by moving the upper ball with the set-screw a little bit forward.

[franknitty69]

Frankie, those ball joints should be in the upper holes.
and you should have the drive cups with the 2mm spacers on the rear.

missed that in the manual. :)

thanks

[franknitty69]

... you should be able to ensure smooth movement by moving the upper ball with the set-screw a little bit forward.

that's just what i'll do Robert.

thanks

[NiMo]

As i said above, the part number should be 92491 and i am pretty sure that not all spring are softer than the springs shipped with the kit. I measured them some time ago and got these spring-rates: orange = 200gr/mm, black/green = 250gr/mm, yellow = 325gr/mm.

Next, i think the rear stabilizer bar is mounted correctly in the lower holes of the suspension arm. I refer to the official manual of the r-version. Furthermore, only this position ensures that the stabilizer bar ist some kind of parallel to the lower suspension arms and does not interfer with the dampers or the upper arms. you should be able to ensure smooth movement by moving the upper ball with the set-screw a little bit forward.

I am not using those hard springs (I have them but no longer use them), the springs I use are even softer than the black V-one S springs, they were designed for the Mk1 / Mk2 Pure 10 Spyder (guess I'll have to search for the part number).

[franknitty69]

i'm an idiot. i was using the front wheel shafts in the rear and rear in the front. shiny ones go in the rear, black ones up front. also drive shafts for the rear has a little 'hump' in the middle to denote rear. i guess i was too anxious to get my baby togehter.

[franknitty69]

quick question. i have the regular chassis, not the 'shimo' chaissis. is the 3racing main chassis just as good as the kyosho 7075 Hard Main Chassis #TSW17? (or better)

thanks

[pleaseletmeon34]

Frank was your kit open? I have seen a few 31582 kits and they came with the TSW17. The 31582b came with the standard chassis VS-013.

[uaerc]

Nimo

I changed a lot of things on my car and boy Should i tell you that I am more than happy to drive it now. Things I changed....

Added more Toe in at the rear.
Removed the rear and front Stabalizers.
Remove the Droop screw to zero
Reduced Camber a bit (the track champion did that for me once he saw the FW 05 R coz I am the first to get it ! :)) .... He recommended me to switch to 10000 and 5000 oils in the front and rear diffs. Also he talked about the same springs you guys mentioned but then No stock and no where i could find it !!!! Can you explain to me what does spring no. 4.5-1.7 mean ? how do i find out which is softer based on the nos.

Added a new servo sicne i lost due to ABS braking. lost a DS 811 and added DS 559.
Lost wheel shaft . chipped off !! GOT front UNIVERSAL's VS006 I think !! 0006 i remmber ! :)

I am using the stock Power Tyres that comes with the kit. 35shore i think.
Thinking of ordering the Speed minds I saw and heard a lot about.....what do you reckon or since all the racer at my track are using slicks you recommendations. I Have a set of slicks - As you said no mods required I will just put them on my existing setup and check if it works !! will update you on that.

Our track has gone really bad since the Kyosho world cup was held. So i managed to completely shave off the stock tires. I could notice this while driving aswell.as the tyres weared off the car started to slip more..... I did two tanks on my car non stop with one pit stop..the engine was fine this time till one of the cars bumped into me nad threw me off damaging the wheel shaft and silicone tube (Exhaust) which made my engine lean out.

Good thing I heard the whole day -- ' You are quite fast for a begginner' -, coming from the track champion :) BTW = it was my 3rd day at the track.

I would like to personally Thank to all you guys for bearing with my silly questions till date - especially NIMO ! :)

cheers
Aziz

[uaerc]

Nimo

I changed a lot of things on my car and boy Should i tell you that I am more than happy to drive it now. Things I changed....

Added more Toe in at the rear.
Removed the rear and front Stabalizers.
Remove the Droop screw to zero
Reduced Camber a bit (the track champion did that for me once he saw the FW 05 R coz I am the first to get it ! :)) .... He recommended me to switch to 10000 and 5000 oils in the front and rear diffs. Also he talked about the same springs you guys mentioned but then No stock and no where i could find it !!!! Can you explain to me what does spring no. 4.5-1.7 mean ? how do i find out which is softer based on the nos.

Added a new servo sicne i lost due to ABS braking. lost a DS 811 and added DS 559.
Lost wheel shaft . chipped off !! GOT front UNIVERSAL's VS006 I think !! 0006 i remmber ! :)

I am using the stock Power Tyres that comes with the kit. 35shore i think.
Thinking of ordering the Speed minds I saw and heard a lot about.....what do you reckon or since all the racer at my track are using slicks you recommendations. I Have a set of slicks - As you said no mods required I will just put them on my existing setup and check if it works !! will update you on that.

Our track has gone really bad since the Kyosho world cup was held. So i managed to completely shave off the stock tires. I could notice this while driving aswell.as the tyres weared off the car started to slip more..... I did two tanks on my car non stop with one pit stop..the engine was fine this time till one of the cars bumped into me nad threw me off damaging the wheel shaft and silicone tube (Exhaust) which made my engine lean out.

Good thing I heard the whole day -- ' You are quite fast for a begginner' -, coming from the track champion :) BTW = it was my 3rd day at the track.

I would like to personally Thank to all you guys for bearing with my silly questions till date - especially NIMO ! :)

cheers
Aziz

[uaerc]

Nimo

I changed a lot of things on my car and boy Should i tell you that I am more than happy to drive it now. Things I changed....

Added more Toe in at the rear.
Removed the rear and front Stabalizers.
Remove the Droop screw to zero
Reduced Camber a bit (the track champion did that for me once he saw the FW 05 R coz I am the first to get it ! :)) .... He recommended me to switch to 10000 and 5000 oils in the front and rear diffs. Also he talked about the same springs you guys mentioned but then No stock and no where i could find it !!!! Can you explain to me what does spring no. 4.5-1.7 mean ? how do i find out which is softer based on the nos.

Added a new servo sicne i lost due to ABS braking. lost a DS 811 and added DS 559.
Lost wheel shaft . chipped off !! GOT front UNIVERSAL's VS006 I think !! 0006 i remmber ! :)

I am using the stock Power Tyres that comes with the kit. 35shore i think.
Thinking of ordering the Speed minds I saw and heard a lot about.....what do you reckon or since all the racer at my track are using slicks you recommendations. I Have a set of slicks - As you said no mods required I will just put them on my existing setup and check if it works !! will update you on that.

Our track has gone really bad since the Kyosho world cup was held. So i managed to completely shave off the stock tires. I could notice this while driving aswell.as the tyres weared off the car started to slip more..... I did two tanks on my car non stop with one pit stop..the engine was fine this time till one of the cars bumped into me nad threw me off damaging the wheel shaft and silicone tube (Exhaust) which made my engine lean out.

Good thing I heard the whole day -- ' You are quite fast for a begginner' -, coming from the track champion :) BTW = it was my 3rd day at the track.

I would like to personally Thank to all you guys for bearing with my silly questions till date - especially NIMO ! :)

cheers
Aziz

[franknitty69]

Frank was your kit open? I have seen a few 31582 kits and they came with the TSW17. The 31582b came with the standard chassis VS-013.

yup. minez was open. the car's part #is actually 31581B. it came with a front diff. and a standard upper deck.

[pleaseletmeon34]

Frank was your kit open? I have seen a few 31582 kits and they came with the TSW17. The 31582b came with the standard chassis VS-013.

I had made a mistake there. Should have been "I have seen a few 31582 kits and they came with the TSW17. The 31581b came with the standard chassis VS-013."

[franknitty69]

so should i go with the TSW17 (kyosho) or the 3racing chassis? they both to seem to be made out of the same material, but i can't find any other specs. (weight, durability, etc.)

[uaerc]

HI

Anyone using the RDL Turbo 2 pipe with the OS TR - T on the FW.....DO let me know the performance levels.

Cheers
Azuz

[HKmaxx]

franknitty69

3Racing chassis is 157g. Durability unknown, still running the stock chassis.

[NiMo]

so should i go with the TSW17 (kyosho) or the 3racing chassis? they both to seem to be made out of the same material, but i can't find any other specs. (weight, durability, etc.)

I have heard that the 3racing chassis bend to easily, I've not got one so I cant say.
I'm having to change my chassis as it has got bent, at least it lasted 14 months, just got the Shimo chassis TSW17.

[NiMo]

yup. minez was open. the car's part #is actually 31581B. it came with a front diff. and a standard upper deck.

Same kit as mine :)
Do get the RRR front hubs, they give more steering lock.

[franknitty69]

i'll be the guinea pig for the 3racing chassis. it's 50% cheaper than the 'shimo' chassis.

nimo the rrr hubs are on my to-do list. (that list is quite long).

quick question to all. my steering plate appears to be touching the lower bulkhead. i've tripled check the manual for anything i might've missed and i've triple-checked the assembley of the steering bellcranks and the front bulkhead everything's exactly as it is in the manual, but the plate stills touches.

any suggestions?

[HKmaxx]

franknitty69
The steering plate comes close but doesn't touch the lower bulkhead.
Is this with the stock chassis or 3Racing?
Is the steering plate facing the right way?
Got a pic?

[franknitty69]

franknitty69
The steering plate comes close but doesn't touch the lower bulkhead.
Is this with the stock chassis or 3Racing?
Is the steering plate facing the right way?
Got a pic?
HKmaxx,

i'm using the standard chassis (not new and improved one). the steering plate is facing the correct way. i've quadruple checked that against the manual. i'll post a pics tonight.

[NiMo]

i'll be the guinea pig for the 3racing chassis. it's 50% cheaper than the 'shimo' chassis.

nimo the rrr hubs are on my to-do list. (that list is quite long).

quick question to all. my steering plate appears to be touching the lower bulkhead. i've tripled check the manual for anything i might've missed and i've triple-checked the assembley of the steering bellcranks and the front bulkhead everything's exactly as it is in the manual, but the plate stills touches.

any suggestions?

I found that too, I cured it by placing a thin washer on each of the screws between the chassis and lower suspension mounts, I think it also made the car handle a bit better.

[HKmaxx]

franknitty69

I remember now that I have a flange bearing in place of the bushing that comes in the kit. This is why it doesn't touch on mine.

[franknitty69]

hkmaxx,

what's the part # of the flange bearings that you're talking about. my steering plate is connected to the bellcranks with a steering pin (40) that goes through a metal bushing (41).

see pic:

http://www.techempire.net/images/temp/DSC00002.jpg

[HKmaxx]

franknitty69

I don't have a part #, bearing is OD 6mm x ID 3mm x 2.5mm flange bearing. This replaces the metal bushing. I'm also using 3Racing bellcranks.

[HKmaxx]

franknitty69

Another view. I think the scratch in the centre of the steering plate may have been rubbing when using the stock bellcranks. Looking carefully now there is a gap with my current setup. Also using 3Racing lower hingepin holders on front suspension.

[franknitty69]

hkmaxx,

i found the part # for both bearings. it's not in the back of the manual but on at the bottom of the page where you but the bellcranks together. they're next on my list to get.

how do you like the 3racing servo saver?

[HKmaxx]

franknitty69

3Racing servo is OK, I only run the lower half. I found that the alloy to alloy contact area will bind and not release freely as it should.

[atchipmunk]

Hey everyone. I'm not new to R/C...have quite a bit of experience with electrics, but am now looking to get into Nitro touring cars. Originally I was looking at a Traxxas nitro 4-Tec because of the out-of-the box top speed (I feel like the chassis is a little outdated, however), but after reading the RCCA mag's 10 Touring Car shootout i've decided that the FW-05R sounds like the perfect chassis for me. So, now I need to decide on an engine.

Can some one suggest some engines that will fit into the FW-05R chassis without modification? I'm not planning on racing or anything so I don't need to consider classes, etc...i'll just be bashing around in parking lots and having fun with the car. I want sa car that is fast, and that handles well (something that the 4-Tec doesn't do) and a FW-05R with a fast engine should do the trick. So, what engines will fit into the FW-05R and give me top speeds of closer to 60MPH?

Some previous posts have recommended Novarossi engines...anyone know if the NS15S5 will fit and meet my goals of a 60+mph top speed? If so, who in the US carries Novarossi engines? Doesn't seem like there's too many sources here for them. Anyway, thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Alvin Caragay

[HKmaxx]

Drop one of these in. TRX 2.5 but it will require a bit of modding.

[franknitty69]

Don't mean to hi-jack but i'm selling my FW on eBay.

FW-05R on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5942105950&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT)

[rc addict]

hey guys, i just finished building my fw-05r about a month or 2 ago, it is completely stock without a motor or electroncs, so far i have bought the following items for it
-protoform nemesis body
-top tsr12s3 turbo, 1.54hp @41000 rpm
-reedy 5 cell flat pack from a.e.
-vision peak 2 charger
-airtronics mx-3 transmitter
-two jr racing servos
-kyosho fw-05r --> fw-05rr conversion kit
-mugen seiki after run oil

-i need to know what sort of pipes and headers im going to need to buy without modification , and has to fit the tsr turbo (must be legal as well)
i also need to know the types of receivers i should get, as well as airfilters (dont know if i need an 11mm or 10mm wide to fit carb)

-furthermore i need to know how to adjust the clutch so it pops in rather early

last thing i need to know is any good advice and rules before installing my top engine because i just got it in the mail today :) please tell me anything i have to do before and during installing the engine, i dont wanna mess up

(btw, if anyone wants to know how to get the fw-05rr conversion kit, or info on it, send me an instant message at SENDHELP3306 , im online most of the time...)

thanks alot,
rc-addict

[rc addict]

the conversion kit is available in japan right now, so its rather cheap, and it is a factory kit by kyosho, rather than some no name brand. it includes a setup sheet for fw05rr, installation instructions, and numerous hop-ups that bring the fw-05r to v1rrr standards.
some parts are from the v1rrr and others are not.

[NiMo]

I've got the RR kit fitted.
pictures are in the FW05RR section
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=184402

[uaerc]

I just ordered mine from Japan. Can anyone let me know a few things... does this kit increases the turning of the car and also what are the major changes driving wise with this upgrade.

Or in simpler words. is this upgrade worth the mulaa !!

Regards
aziz

[NiMo]

Ran the RR foir the first time today, but as the track was a little icy through most of qualifying it was hard to tell of any major difference as even D20 Pits treads had little grip, saying that I did get FTD by a good lap.
And in the final when the track dried I stayed with Rubber (Sorex 24) while others went to Foam, I won the first leg, but a loose wheel nut dropped me from the lead to fourth in leg 2 (behind 3 foam shod cars), so maybe it does work.
Temperature reached a high today of -1c with a strong wind making your eyes water good.

If you are upgrading from an FW05R, then you will notice a much tighter turning circle and a quicker turn in to corners, Using the RRR front hubs on there own gives a tighter turn, but it still pushes on turn in.

[OferFisher]

Hi! my name is ofer and i am from israel.
Can you tell me which car is beter??

[rc addict]

it all depends, the ntc3 ft is a real winner but requires the right tuning and is very precise, but the fw-05r is one of the strongest competitors out there, its the next prodigy in shaft driven cars evolving from the v1rrr and now the fw series remains almost untouchable:D

[Koraxis]

I'm looking to get the fw05-r, i'm from australia and am goign to get the chasis from tower hobbies. What is the difference between the

FW05R 4WD Special Chasis Kit - $379.99 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHJB3&P=0)

and the

FW05R Chasis Kit - $299.99 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEZX2&P=0)

besides the price!!

[NiMo]

I'm looking to get the fw05-r, i'm from australia and am goign to get the chasis from tower hobbies. What is the difference between the

FW05R 4WD Special Chasis Kit - $379.99 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHJB3&P=0)

and the

FW05R Chasis Kit - $299.99 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEZX2&P=0)

besides the price!!

FW05RR is $350 from Hong Kong, even less from Japan.

[Koraxis]

Where from Hong Kong/Japan do you get it? I can't read chinese or japanese

[NiMo]

Where from Hong Kong/Japan do you get it? I can't read chinese or japanese
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_info.php?products_id=5331

[Koraxis]

Thanks NiMo!! that's cool!
BUT how come the FW05R is more expensive than the FW05RR!?!? i thought the FW05RR was newer and better?

Link (http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/index.php?cPath=1_17_78&page=1&sort=5a)

[HKmaxx]

Thanks NiMo!! that's cool!
BUT how come the FW05R is more expensive than the FW05RR!?!? i thought the FW05RR was newer and better?

Link (http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/index.php?cPath=1_17_78&page=1&sort=5a)

Maybe the FW05RR doesn't include engine/pipe , you will need to look up Kyosho home page to check the specs of each kit and whats included.

[NiMo]

Maybe the FW05RR doesn't include engine/pipe , you will need to look up Kyosho home page to check the specs of each kit and whats included.

The FW05R/RR is not available outside Japan with a motor.

[NiMo]

Thanks NiMo!! that's cool!
BUT how come the FW05R is more expensive than the FW05RR!?!? i thought the FW05RR was newer and better?

Link (http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/index.php?cPath=1_17_78&page=1&sort=5a)

I think that's a mistake on the site, should read $280, not $380

[Colt M4]

I heard some great things about this car and i am considering getting one, but here is a problem i hear that it is very difficult to get parts from kyosho. My LHS tells me it takes more than a couple of months to get parts.

[NiMo]

you have reply to same post on the other FW05 section

[aus jd 2703]

hey what are the three best on road nitro cars in a stock class????? im 15 and on the tightest budget

[NiMo]

hey what are the three best on road nitro cars in a stock class????? im 15 and on the tightest budget

If you go for the FW05T you cant go far wrong.
It may be the base model in the FW05 range but it has Camber/Castor/Toe/Shock Position/Track Width/Gear Ratio adjustments, it comes with a full bearing set, it also has the fittings for the roll bars, and the Pinion/Spur gears are the same type as used on the FW05RR.
And the best thing? it can be fully upgraded to the FW05RR model when you find the budget, you could even have the RR front end fitted to the T chassis and motor, even the new 3R quick change gearbox will bolt straight in.

[aus jd 2703]

were u get that from all we have in australia is the fw05 s and r not t ot rr's here are they newer versions??

[NiMo]

The R has been updated to the RR
(new front upper suspension mounts, top deck, and V1RRR hubs)
The T is the new base model RTR car, has been available in HK for last 4 months
(comes with pre-painted BMW M3 or Porsche 911 shells, Subaru WRX coming soon).
Kits only appear to be available in HK or Japan at present.
FW05T BMW (http://rc-union.com/product_info.php?products_id=2447)

[stillborngod]

Does anyone know how I can get a 4 stroke kit for the FW-05? They have them in japan, and I first saw it in the pages of RCNtro. I found it in the japanese part of Kyosho's website but I can't find a way to buy it. I bet at least one of you clever guys can help me out

[NiMo]

Does anyone know how I can get a 4 stroke kit for the FW-05? They have them in japan, and I first saw it in the pages of RCNtro. I found it in the japanese part of Kyosho's website but I can't find a way to buy it. I bet at least one of you clever guys can help me out

There is not much of a demand for 4-stroke kits outside of Japan, so you may have to get a dealer to order it direct.

[zax13]

hi guys...
im new to this forum and i got some question to ask.
currently im running a v-one sii and wanting to try shaft driven car...
would buying fw-05r be a good choice and upgrade it later to rr?
im on a tight budget so cant really get the rr version straight away...
btw how is the controlling of the car like?

thanks...

[ki smoke]

i just got one of these used off ebay a few weeks back.it's the first r version i believe and although i have yet to run it(need starter box battery)i really like what i see.it came with servos,receiver pack and a o.s.12tr engine.for 120 shipped i thought it was a steal.i hope to be up and running it this weekend.where is the best place to get kyosho parts nowadays?

[SerraAvatar]

Hi you fw05 fans, I have a question to ask. If any one could give some info it will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
here's a link, which I'm sure everyone knows already:
http://www.mokeiya.com/page3/FW05RR/fw05rr.htm
Where can I find the super charger? I searched O.S official website and don't have any information about that "supercharger unit", and I don't understand Japanese either.
I basically want to know what it is (item code, price, manufacturer... etc).
Thank you guys!@

[NiMo]

Hi you fw05 fans, I have a question to ask. If any one could give some info it will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
here's a link, which I'm sure everyone knows already:
http://www.mokeiya.com/page3/FW05RR/fw05rr.htm
Where can I find the super charger? I searched O.S official website and don't have any information about that "supercharger unit", and I don't understand Japanese either.
I basically want to know what it is (item code, price, manufacturer... etc).
Thank you guys!@

I just translated it to English and....
well basically you cant get it
it was a specially made one of item

[ki smoke]

Hey Nimo,do you still have your fw05?

[NiMo]

Hey Nimo,do you still have your fw05?

I have most of it still, I keep looking at fitting the 4-stroke to it as I have the fitting kit, it's just that my local track keep quoting the rules, so I end up putting the project on hold.

[ki smoke]

woohoo finally got a batt for the starter box.if i can charge it i should have the fw05 up and running today.i also went ahead and ordered a protoform 200mm lola body from the lhs.i'm excited,it's been awhile since i've run 1/10 nitro onroad,or any onroad for that matter.

[ki smoke]

well i ran the the fw05 and it didn't go so well.a screw was broke that holds the outdrive on the 2speed and it slowly but surely worked out.all power to the front was lost and so were the brakes.the 2speed never changed out and i was having some really bad glitching.at first it was running so rich my buddies revo was stroking the fw05.i pulled the brakes and front dogbone out,did some tuning and it was much better.couldn't fix the glitching even after switching radios,3pjs first then 3pdf.so now i need to make a parts list and find somewhere to purchase them.i'm disappointed in how the day went but there's no doubt this ride has serious potential.

[ki smoke]

the glitching was from the novak xxl.it got alot worse after i lost control and slammed into those steel rails,hehe go figure.i should be getting a new futaba pcm rec. and a new futaba fm rec in the next few days maybe tomorrow.the set screw that locks the 2nd gear to the shaft was missing hence the not changing into 2nd.now all i need to do is get that little broken screw out of the 2 speed shaft,replace it and i should be good to go for this weekend,i hope.

[ki smoke]

after dulling 4 drill bits in 1 hour and getting pretty discouraged i found a bit in my toolbox that chewed through the broke screw in about 15 seconds.i gotta get some more of these,hell i didn't even know it was in there.so i finally got the car back together and hope to run it before the weekend.maybe now i'll have a second gear and brakes,yes brakes would be nice,hehe.

oh yeah and i got the lola body in and did a horrible paint job.it turned out so bad i figured why stop there?so i took a permanent marker and colored my wheels in a simple and goofy way.then i took a thermal label printer and made some cheezey decals,i meen cheddar cheezey.all of the crapiness combined to not look all that bad.

[StevePond]

If you want some REALLY strong brakes, try the IFW324 bonded semi-metallic pads and the IFW122 machined, vented brake rotor. It's a pretty pricey braking arrangement, but it's fade-free and the brakes will probably last a whole season.

[JAKA GLEDEK]

All I know right now is that it's a 200mm shaft drive competition car. I don't know if it will make it to the States or when it will be out, or the price, but it sure looks nice. I like the engine facing the front of the car, and it looks like it's got the heavy-duty 2-speed. The only thing I don't like is that the engine is on the left side of the chassis. Most tuned pipes are configured to be mounted on the left side of the car, so it will limit the number of pipes that will fit without modification.

Dear sir
i a new member from indonesia i want to ask about my new fw05rr
how to setting the good chamber,caster and what the good engine i must choise

[JAKA GLEDEK]

bro please tell me how to setting my kyosho fw05 rr bro

[ngeronikolos]

Hello to everyboby,

I had broken the spring of the CLUTCH SHOE ASSY. So,I fix it but the length of the spring now is smaller(I cut a small piece).Do you thing that this can be problem??

Please suggest me a better CLUTCH SHOE ASSY(exept of the IF204)compatible with the FW-05T!!!


Can I use upgrade parts for a better performace-reffering to the PARTS
VS057 FLY WHEEL
IF204 CLUTCH SHOE ASSY
VS058 CLUTCH BELL

Please suggest
Regards
Nikos

[antonio77]

hi ngeronikolos,
i would suggest the kc-45 clutch, in my opinion is the best, also the vespel one is good, better than IF-204:D
:wave: