Kyosho FW-05R/FW-05RR

[StevePond]

This is Kyosho's latest competition car, so I figure it's time to get the ball rolling...

(updated with FW-05RR picture)

[Jimmy33]

this looks interesting anybody got some info on it?

[StevePond]

All I know right now is that it's a 200mm shaft drive competition car. I don't know if it will make it to the States or when it will be out, or the price, but it sure looks nice. I like the engine facing the front of the car, and it looks like it's got the heavy-duty 2-speed. The only thing I don't like is that the engine is on the left side of the chassis. Most tuned pipes are configured to be mounted on the left side of the car, so it will limit the number of pipes that will fit without modification.

[-=ADA$=-]

sure looks nice, are that blue dogbones?? theyr great!!

[Jack_Schitt]

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/main-e.html info is in here, in english.

[NiMo]

A big red box arrived in the post today, big enought to hold the fully built car.
If I could just stay dry long enough in this 85% humidity UK heatwave (only 96F) I might be able to start building it, it needs to be up to speed by my next National race on Sept 7th but hopefully ready for the invitation race on Aug 24th.
Could this be goodbye to my trusty 29 month old V-one R??

[KingWillie]

Nimo, your going to run this in place of your R? In what class?
Need to hurry up and build it so we can hear about it!!!!

[NiMo]

Having trouble staying dry enough to build the kit (dahm heatwave) but the centre gearbox and front end is now built.
Things I have noticed:
Front suspension plate is 9mm shorter than the V-one (brings swing arm shaft 4.5mm closer to centre line) and the drive shafts are 10mm longer than the V-one. I've yet to measure but I think each front suspension arm is 5mm longer than the V-one so it should ride the bumps better. (will start on rear tomorrow)

As for my 'R', it is now losing too much to the MTX3 (still beats everything else) and the EVO upgrade only has the front one way option, ok for foam but no good for rubber hence taking the FW05R route.
(G4 also only works on foam, too lose and fragile on rubber)

[super_racer]

there are two versions available - rubber tire and foam tire. is this tire the only difference between the two kits or are there other additions? also, is there a price difference between the two kits?

cheers :cool:

[alana07]

Originally posted by NiMo
Having trouble staying dry enough to build the kit (dahm heatwave) but the centre gearbox and front end is now built.
Things I have noticed:
Front suspension plate is 9mm shorter than the V-one (brings swing arm shaft 4.5mm closer to centre line) and the drive shafts are 10mm longer than the V-one. I've yet to measure but I think each front suspension arm is 5mm longer than the V-one so it should ride the bumps better. (will start on rear tomorrow)

As for my 'R', it is now losing too much to the MTX3 (still beats everything else) and the EVO upgrade only has the front one way option, ok for foam but no good for rubber hence taking the FW05R route.
(G4 also only works on foam, too lose and fragile on rubber)

evo upgrade kit includes a shorter front diff casing, but you'll have to purchase new shorter diff output shafts to run a diff in front.

[NiMo]

Originally posted by super_racer
there are two versions available - rubber tire and foam tire. is this tire the only difference between the two kits or are there other additions? also, is there a price difference between the two kits?

cheers :cool:

MIne is the Foam version as that is the only version RCModel has.
It come with amendments sheet with different measurements for the rods, also it has the longer rear output shafts and 30mm rear foams (guess the rubber version has the standard 26mm rear).

[NiMo]

I dont have a Digital camera so I couldn't take any pics but the Kyosho France site has got new pics of the car.

http://www205.pair.com/kyosho1/kweb/matos/s_r_rr/presentation/fw05r/fw05r.htm

[StevePond]

Anyone started putting one together yet from overseas?

[NiMo]

Got the car on to the track today, new car and motor to break in.
Had to adjust the clutch as it would not pull away at low enough revs for my liking, but after the usual 6 tanks through the new motor i started to play with the car, had to adjust gearbox as it would not change up, it needs to be 3 turns out from closed not as the book.

Using the kit supplied foam tyres and a Kyosho Mugen NSX 2002 shell i was very quickly doing fast laps, this car handles well, comparing it to my V-one R is like jumping from a Minardi to a Ferrari, and the way it just launches out of the corners is breathtaking, and you can also enter the corners faster, the car simply loves corners.

Still waiting for a proper pipe, so for now i'm running a NTC3 manifold and a SuperTen pipe with 2" of rubber tubing to connect them (not legal for racing), problem with the NTC3 manifold is that it doesn't turn sharp enough so you cannot used the rear antiroll bar. My RD Logics pipe should be with me within 2 weeks.

Verdict: screw the V-one, get the FW05R (this from a dedicated V-one S and R driver)

[StevePond]

The HPI 180-degree header may work, and the OS Superten header will work, but you will have to tweak it a little bit to get around the sway bar. The Kyosho 009 header is the way to go, but they're just coming out with the car as I understand it.

[NiMo]

just back from day 2 of testing, today was to be spent on a set up for Rubber tyres.
11am - stuck on a set of ING MS27's, took it cautious for a few laps but then found i was doing some very fast laps with no handling problems apart from a slight power on understeer.

11.40am - left the 27's on the front but went to harder 32's on the rear, still got power on understeer, rear end glued.

deciding that the rear antiroll bar is not required i set about shortening the rubber on the pipe to a legal length.

13.10 - put on the 45 grade foams front and rear (these were too hard for the V-one R), found lots more power now the pipe was at correct length, tyres worked a treat, still the same amount of power on understeer, cannot get rear end to lose grip.

14.25 - after adjusting the fuel needle mixtures I hit the track again to find the grip limits of the car. have now found a problem, motor revs out at 90ft mark (straight about 150ft) need to gear up but dont have any spare gears, someone timed me and says I just done a 13.8s lap (previous best was 14.4). Rear end simply will not break traction.

16.40 - track normally goes off by this time of day but still the car is glued and fast (must order that 27T pinion) another 13.8s lap.

decided that car can be run on foam and rubber with no adjustments required.

[StevePond]

Nimo - did you experience any "notchiness" with the steering hubs? I found the molded retainers for the pivot balls to be a little awkward because they're not cupped on the inside like most. I installed the Kawahara delrin pivot ball adjusters and found them to be much smoother. Unless I'm doing something wrong, I'm not fond of the stock adjusters. Also, it sounds like you need the rear sway bar to get the car to rotate a little bit out of the corners. The Kyosho header can be used without interfering with the roll bar. I'm also going to try the HPI 180-degree header to see if it fits.

[NiMo]

Yes i've noticed that on the steering, i switched them with the alloy V-one items as they appear smoother, have thought about getting the Delrin ones.

As for the pipe, it is now on the rcmodel site so i will get it (UK importer not interested in this car yet).

As for the rear end grip, i've never known a car to have so much of it, even under full power, no need for any active diffs in this car, but I think the 39T diff rings are a must as I'm finding the car a little undergeared at my local track, and the National scene run on tracks with straights twice the length (Halifax is about 300ft long - 70mph).

I hate to think how fast the car would be with a turbo motor and 25%. I'm only running an NovaRossi RS12 S1 on 16%.

[StevePond]

I'll end up switching to aluminum or titanium pivot balls to reduce weight. The stock pivots balls in most cars are very heavy and add a considerable amount of unsprung weight. I think the hitch in the steering is mostly the result of the flat face on the rear of the pivot ball retainers. They're usually cupped, but these are very flat with a small center hole. The broached hole for the Allen driver to adjust the pivot balls catches on the edge of the hole in the back of the pivot ball retainers.

If the car has that much bite, maybe you can switch to a solid rear drive axle and a front one-way. You should get much harder acceleration and better rotation. Getting rid of that gear diff sure saves a ton of rotating mass.

Anyway, looks like a killer car. Glad to hear you've had such good results so far.

[V-one R Finland]

You can find the FW-05R manual on-line behind the following link

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/instructionmanual/manual/car/touring_rally/fw05r/31581_fw05r_m.pdf

Evo manuals are also on-line

[StevePond]

The cars are already available in Japan and other parts unknown outside the US. Thanks for the link.

[wing]

here is mine....
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=139888

I just change the front one way and the gear ratio...

[StevePond]

Wing - you guys don't run foam tires in HK?

[wing]

Stevepond
The tires show on the pic only for picture taken..i use form tire for running....

[StevePond]

I did some pretty hard running with the FW-05, and I have to say I'm very impressed. This is a very stable and quick machine. I've done all my testing thus far with the stock gear diffs front and rear, but I'll be switching to a front one-way pretty soon as most of us run one-ways at the local track.

[NiMo]

Debut race for the car last weekend at the bumpy Ashby track in Derbyshire, England, the final round of the BRCA Scale Rubber series.
Didn't go on the Saturday for practice so 1st run on that track was the 1st qualifyer, had a few rear end grip problems with the car which I could not get my head around, and when I tried a new set of 27's on the rear it made things worse.
It wasn't until the 4th and final qualifyer when i tried a 32 on the near side rear (still 27 on the off side) that I got somewhere with the set up (rear was actually skipping) but it left me in a lowly 34th out of 70 entries.
Came to my final (the 'D') and I went to 32's on both rears, lap 1 - got a jump up to 2nd, lap 2 - someone corner cut big time, caused a 5 car shunt which included me, got away 2nd last but being a 10 minute run i had time on my side.
Pitted at 5, although the tank will go 8, came out behind the leader, 2 laps later I blitz him on the straight (car still accelerates when other reach full speed), thought I was being pushed towards the end but found I was 2 laps clear of 2nd.

Summary - car has so much rear grip you need to run a grade harder tyre on the rear, or in this case, same tyre and insert front and rear.

on the scales the car weighed in at a hevty 1899 grams (minimum allowed weight 1750 grams) so I will be looking in to a weight loss program even though the car is faster than a lot of the lighter opposition.

Results from meeting
http://www.brcascalerubber.org.uk/Results/Ashby/ashbyfinalresults.htm

[Cant log on]

NiMo I noticed that most off the clutch parts are the same as the RR but the flywheel and motor mounts are different on the 05. Is the flywheel smaller??

[NiMo]

I never had the 3D clutch on my V-one R, but I think someone did say the flywheel was smaller.
The motor in the 05 sits about 4mm lower than in the V-one R, which was lowered a bit for the RR.
The gap between the chassis and my Rossi motor is about 1 mm.

[Cant log on]

Thanks thats what I wanted to hear. Now if I could only get a hold of one of those flywheels.

[NiMo]

Flywheel part number is 'VS 029' (think it is 33mm in diameter)
Motor mount 'VS 030'

A downside to the low engine is when you go on to the grass area (the non black stuff) the flywheel can catch and stall the motor.

[Cant log on]

Thanks, I have down loaded the manual off Kyoshos site but couldn't see the difference. The flywheel is actually lower?? I thought it might be at the same height, just smaller to compensate for the lower mounts. Tower has them coming but they keep pushing the date back

[crikey!]

I ran mine for the first time this weekend against a horde of MTX3 and VoneRR evo's.....man, this car is awesome.

Not only does it accelerate faster, but it's quicker in and out of the turns.

I usually race a VoneRR, I bettered my best lap time by .3 of a sec with this car.

...and this is with no practice, just built the car and dropped it on the track with the out of the box setup..

Kyosho is on a winner with this car I am sure..

the strength of the VoneR with the speed of the NTC3 ...
:)

[StevePond]

I found similar results. We just finished some testing of both cars with the same engine, tires, body, pipes, fuel, plugs etc., and the FW-05R was quicker in straight line, faster on top speed, and had better steering on corner entry. The 05R would lose to the V-One-RR Evo however, when exiting high speed corners. The front diff unloads and bleeds off power to the inside front wheel.

The low CG of the 05R is incredible. Traction rolled the Evo a few times but never even came close with the 05R, even using the same body, ride height, set-up, tires, etc. It just got through the corners a lot flatter. The Evo is a dialed car in it's own right, but I'm very impressed with the 05R. I also like the fact that the engine is mounted facing forward. I believe it helps to prevent vapor lock by keeping cool air flowing over the carb.

I can't wait to drop in the front one-way diff to see how it runs. Also bought grahite shock towers and the thicker Kyosho chassis plate.

[crikey!]

You haven't thought about trying a TCD diff in the front??

[StevePond]

I'm not a big fan of the TCD for anything but durability. Not saying it wouldn't work, but reducing rotating mass in the drivetrain translates into considerable gains in acceleration. I think I'd prefer a front one-way and a solid rear spool. We'll see how it goes. I'm not adverse to trying anything.

[Tabushi]

It is possible to run front solids and rear diff on the 05R ?

thanks !

[StevePond]

anything is possible, but at present, I don't believe a solid drive axle is available. I don't think the car has the proper balance (maybe imbalance would be a better choice of words) to use a solid front. It takes away so much steering, the car would have to hopelessly oversteer to benefit front a solid front drive axle. My .02 anyway.

Ran the car again today. Traction was way down and the car was a little more difficult to handle. Pushed a little bit, but I dialed out some of the rear toe and steering improved. I'm still dying to install the front one-way because the front diff is making it diffcult to get into and out of the corners with much speed.

Did a dumb ass thing in the main and put a rear tire on the left front of the car :eek: Was running second in the A and just had to pull the car off the track because I was fighting it the whole time. Discovered the 30mm tire was rubbing the suspension arm. Oooooops. :D Acceleration is just blazing. Getting through the corners consistently was a little touch with the frint gear diff, but otherwise still very happy with the car.

[Buggy Master]

what is everyone's opinion on how the fw-05r handle compared to an ofna ld3 full option? i know the full option is not available yet in the us but maybe our international friends can give an input. i have an erge to try a shaft drive car again (currently running and still keeping my mtx 3). we race on unprepped but blown asphalt, tight and technical. which ever car i decide on, i will be using gear diffs front and rear and mostly likely race it in stock class with rubber tires. if i can't get it to handle better than my mtx 3 with rubber tires than i will run it in mod class with foam tires. thanks in advance.

[crikey!]

Well, I must run on totally different track surfaces to Steve, my car has really good turn in , the part of the track where I make up time is in and out of the corners.

I used 10k front diff oil, 5k rear

I tried the car on rubber tyres today, back to back runs against foam.

NiMo is right, this thing is equally as impressive , rubber or foam!

I was using 58mm GRP foams, 62mm take-off tyres.

The car was dialled on the foams, I switched to the rubber tyres and re- set the ride height to compensate for the bigger tyres.

I found that the car changes direction and rotates through the turns better...

Maybe the rear roll centers need some attention??

[NiMo]

Just put an order in for some SQUARE Products Titanium bits:

main gearbox shaft, 2nd gear clutch shoes holder, diff bevel gear shafts.

Should save about 9 grams in the drivetrain area.

I ran the Teflon brake pads recently, found they didn't snatch when things were cold at the start of the run, also they didn't fade in the hard braking 20 minute final, in fact it was the opposite, the braking power increased, so much so I had to turn down the brakes 3 clicks on the handset dial.

Only thing to let me down was the tyres. Being a Rubber class I was running Take Off 37's and qualified 2nd (other had to run 32's or 27's for the same amount of grip), I got a good clean start (thanks to 3 & 4 crashing) and was running a very comfortable 2nd having to hold back for the leader (not my championship so I let the pole man have it) when at the 16 minute mark a NSF tyres exploded going in to the banking at around 50mph , the car pushed up but I was low enough to stay on track, the force of the blowout ripped the shell.

Also I tested again on foams and found the car handles better with a slight drive bias to the rear, this is the opposite to the V-one which liked it towards the front.

[StevePond]

Crikey - I don't want to leave the impression the car doesn't turn well. I would say the car is actually very responsive overall, but the front gear diff makes braking more critical - you have to nail your braking points, plus you have to be concerned with the release point. Basically all the braking has to be done in a straight line, otherwsie the car will understeer into the corner. This isn't unique to the FW-05R - any car with a front gear diff would do the same. It's just a little awkward to drive and I prefer the driving characteristics of most cars with a one-way front diff.

[Joehwee]

Hi Guys,

I am from Singapore and have been racing with my FW05R on foam for the last 2 race, the car handle very well and the car seem to be more stable and responsive than my V1RR Evo. The only problem is the bevel gear seem to wear off pretty quick, on average I have to change them every race. However one of my buddy, seem to have problem with the gears, he have stripped his gears for the last 2 races during the final even though he have change to new gears before the race, they only last him 3 x 7 mins heat + maybe another 20 mins for test run/warm up and the gears are usually gone during the first 10-15 mins during the final (45 mins).

We have try all kind of lubrication, Mugen Super Grease, Graphite grease, Teflon Grease and even silicon oil + Grease Mixture (50K +grease) and shiming the gear correctly. The gears still don't seem to last more than 80 mins, I believe the gears are weak cos they are make of cast alum, but before Kyosho release the harden steel gear (just like the Super10), anybody can advise me how to make the gear last longer?

TIA

[StevePond]

Are you having trouble with the gears inside the differential, or the large ring and pinion our the outside? They're all bevel gears, so I don't know which ones you're talking about.

[NiMo]

Worn Gears?
I have now done about 5 hours of running with my car and I'm still on the original bevel gears.
Are you sure you got it shimed right? you need to shim the input shaft/bevel 1st then shim the diff unit to match (took me about an hour on each to get it right).
I use that Tamiya black grease (Moly watsit).

Power on understeer:
I went to the track today to address this slight problem.
1st I tried to loosen the rear up but found that no matter what I done to the rear it changed nothing up front, so I reset the rear to the book.
Now to the front, I done this in 3 stages and everything worked.
1st I brought the top swing arms right back (maximum caster), this didn't change the turn in but gave a bit more power on steering but not enough.
next I move the front shocks to the outer upper holes, this reduced the turn in but gave more power on steering still, but I wanted more.
I had some new very stiff Kyosho Green 1.9 springs, so I tried them, this gave me more grip all round and more turn in and even more power steering. And the car brakes straighter too.
All I need now are the 39tooth diff gears as I'm revving out with the 40 tooth ones and cannot gear up anymore, not to say the car is undergeared as it is much faster than my V-one R, but there is more if I could only gear up.

[adlawoo]

Are you all running the Kyosho Pipe for the car or some runs the RDL made for HPI RTR3? Hows the fit of the RDL? Thanks much!

[StevePond]

I'm running the Kyosho 009 header and an OS T-1031 pipe. The OS header will fit, but it's very close to the anti-roll bar link.

[adlawoo]

Thanks Steve! Did you hear anything about RDL? If it fits perfect...your combo is a bit expensive for my budget and I 'm trying to search for anything similar but less...

[NiMo]

I'm running the RD Logic pipe, but they don't tell you it's an outlaw pipe with a 5.9mm hole.
I used the Kyosho item for the last round of our Rubber championship as the pipe can only be 5.2mm which the Kyosho one is, only down side to the Kyosho pipe is that it comes apart to easily, but I'm looking at ways of bonding the rubber section to the silencer section ( its shape doesn't help).

I do feel that the Kyosho pipe gave better performance, if only I could keep it together.

[StevePond]

Nimo - If you're every inclined to spend the money, the OS T-1031 pipe works VERY well for me and I haven't had any problem with the coupler separating from the pipe.

[Joehwee]

Hi guys,

Sorry for the late response, the bevel gear I am refering to are the big crown gear outside the diff, I shim the gear very well, but they don't seem to last. Btw I am running on foam. If you are running on rubber, they should last longer as the are rubber don't seem to give as much traction as compared to foam. I am not sure whther it was my friend driving cos he use a lot of brake and forget to mention we are running outlaw class and the track we run are very techical.

[NiMo]

I have checked my crown gears since you mentioned it and have found very slight wear, far less than the 1st and 2nd pinion gears.
I run both Foam and Rubber, and I'm known for being very brake and throttle happy (cannot drive with a one-way), so I can't think what you're doing wrong with your diffs.
Maybe you could try running the taller 1st gear (22/50) as I find the car has no problem pulling it even from standstill, It can still spin up on rubbers.

[Joehwee]

Nimo: Thank for your reply, I am currently running 21/50, may switch to 22/50. I have been changing those gears after about 70-80 mins of running, will try to left them there for the last set and see how long they really last. The friend of mine that have gear stripping problem are running 21/51. I will also get him to shim them closer and change the gear to 22/50. I really hope Kyosho can come out with the harden gear ASAP.

[NiMo]

Kyosho FW05S ?

Is this a Pull-Start version of the FW05R ?

And what does it look like ?

All I know at the moment is that October 9th will reveal all.

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/events/hobbyshow/43th_tokyo/img/boos.gif

[crikey!]

I've just returned from racing mine at our National Championships, I have some findings..

1/ The car is horribly under geared, at England Park ,60-65 meter back straight, using a 29t second gear (and that is the bigest you can get!) it would still be wound out about 2/3 of the way (I used a Novarossi NS3);..that was with 60mm foam tyres!

2/ The car handles better on smaller tyres, i.e. below 60 mm, just feels more planted, canges direction quicker etc.

3/The stock Crownwheels and Pinions are pretty soft (the gears inside the gear boxes), I used Tamiya moly grease on them, they lasted a total of 2-3 hours, although they didn't strip, they were showing sufficient wear to make me decide to change them.And yes, they were shimmed perfectly!
No Doubt Kyosho will release some hardened gears.

4/Handling wise I'll stick to what I've said earlier, turns in better and gets in and out of corners faster than anything out there.....I did miss the one way front diff on that track though.

5/ I think if you run on car-park tracks , this is the car to get.

LS

[NiMo]

I have felt that the car was undergeared, and is waiting for the 39t crown wheels to be released.
Saying that, I am on par with most down the main straight, it's just I'm flat out at the halfway point, so how much faster would it go if it were geared up?

[crikey!]

BTW Nige, the TCD on the rear works great...you might want to also try a gold rear bar and the rear shocks on the outermost shock tower hole. really good;)

[NiMo]

Thanks for the extra info, I will try them at a later date.

At the moment since I went to my lastest Green spring set up (see ealier post) I have been able to leave the rest behind, when they catch up I'll try your info, lol.

[NiMo]

Kyosho FW-05S - Picture (not the best angle)

http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/hsphoto/DSCF0087.JPG

[StevePond]

That's a nice looking car. From what I can see, it's a budget version of the FW-05R. If you can install any and all of the same option parts on this car as the FW-05R, then I think they've really got something.

[crikey!]

OH MY GOD!

For sale, VoneS....offers??

[NiMo]

another pic of the 05S - shows more detail

http://www.hobby-one.co.jp/hobby/109-kyo05s.jpg

[jscamry]

I was wondering what ist the 05S??

thanks Jason

[StevePond]

The 05S is the shaft-driven equivalent of the V-One-S. It's a more entry level machine by virute of its compenents, and it includes an engine, body and other accessories that make it a more complete and economical choice compared to the more featured and more expensive FW-05R. The single characteristic that separates the FW-05S from all others before it, is the fact that you can bolt on ANY part made for the FW-05R. So, If you decide you like the car and you want to add certain upgrades one at a time, any standard or optional part for the 05R will fit.

[jscamry]

thanks steve. I understand. I drive a Ntc3 now, and I do like the shaft driven cars, so I may try this new 05R.

thanks J.

[StevePond]

JS - I've driven the car quite a bit, and I really like the way it handles - suits me well. I also like the fact that the engine is facing forward, but would have preferred the engine be mounted on the other side. It's on the right to allow use of a side exhaust engine, but this engine position requires a special tuned pipe made for mounting on the right side of the car - or you at least need to move the pressure fitting on the pipe.
The downside to mounting the engine on the left is that only rear-exhaust engines can be used. I personally would prefer the engine mounted on the left given that most competition engines are rear exhaust anyway. In fact, there's never been such a wide variety of rear exhaust engines available even in the sport engine category. Certainly enough to make a case for mounting the engine on the left shide of the chassis. I'm being a little picky however, because this car runs very well as it is. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

[jscamry]

I know that this is kinda off topic, but I am looking for some info about a track that I saw in the winter 2000 RC nitro magaizine, the picture of the track is on page 68(top left corrner). I was wonrering if I could please have the mailing address of this track.

if at all possible.

thanks Jason

[nad138]

This new design really has my attention. I've just read the latest RCCA mag with the 05R and the 1RR was compared and I'm really looking for a new shaft driven car. Have separated with my NTC3 and am now using the 705 (plus a nib R40). I'm deciding which of the 2 to let go and get this one. Same with Steve, my only gripe is the location of the engine. The plus is that all the electronics are quite far from the fuel tank where they're safe from splashes. And most of all, no tensioners.

[ColoradoNitro]

Hi, to all FW05R owners. I am getting ready to get back into onroad rc, and am narrowing down the field of available cars. I started out trying to decide between the Mtx3, and Ntc3.

The main reason for considering the Ntc3 because of the shaft drive. My last onroader was a Serpent Impact M2, and beings I don't get to run on a sparkling clean track I had troubles w/pebbles getting into the belts/pulleys.

The reason for the Mtx3 is because I've read nothing but good about it. It seems that it is easy to set up and run competitively out of the box, plus I have Mugen experience w/ 1/8th scale buggies. I like the quality for the price factor.

Here's where you guys come in. I thought I was getting the Mtx until I read the Dec. 03 RCCA and got to see the FW05r. I thought man this could be the one. Looks like a quality kit, and maybe the best of both worlds between the Ntc3 and Mtx. I am hoping to get some input from anyone that has ran, or even see both run competitively. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

[StevePond]

I've raced both cars and I like both, but I've unfortunately not had the benefit of running both on the same track configuration for comparison. the MTX-3 is very fast and nimble. The steering hubs pull off the pivot balls a little more often than I would like, and the front dogbones come out pretty easily, so I'd suggest getting a pair of universals.

I'm very happy with the FW-05R. It's very quick, sure footed and void of belts. It took me a while to get used to driving a car with a front diff again, and even though I'm getting the hand of it, I think I'll go for the optional front one-way. The stock pivot ball retainers should be replaced right away. The stock ones cause binding and should be replaced with a contoured Delrin or aluminum retainer. The rod ends and shock ends pop off too easily, so some aftermarket rod end or those that are captured with a cap screw would be an improvement.

[NiMo]

I agree with Steve on the Pivot Ball retainers, get Delrin ones, almost zero play and zero friction.
As for the rod ends and shock ends? I've now done 11 meetings with the car and not yet had one pop.

And as for the original mention of stripping Diffs, I've not had one go yet, and they've only been serviced once.

[ColoradoNitro]

NiMo, I see that you own the Fw. Whats your opinion comparing to the Mtx, Pros, cons, ease of setup ect. ?

[NiMo]

Not had the MTX3, I've come from a V-one R.

Compaired to the V-one R the FW05R is streets ahead.
It has similar top speeds, faster lap times, but feels slower to drive, it reaches it's speed much quicker than the V.

I was going to run the FW side by side with the V, but the feel of the FW has changed all that. V has been mothballed.

Not yet had a chance to run in the wet but in the dry I have yet to loose the rear under power, in fact I'm trying to find more front end to equal the impressive rear end grip.

Word of warning, do not ever run the rear toe in greater than 2 degrees as this causes the rear to skip unexpectedly (nearly got wiped on the 50mph banking).

3racing, Tobee and Square do after market parts for the FW05 so spares should not be a problem.

[ColoradoNitro]

Thanks for the reply Nimo. I never thought I'd own a Kyosho(Mugen offroad fan), but I think they've got me on this one.

[NiMo]

Forgot to mention!

Very quick basic strip and rebuild time for cleaning - 20 minutes - that's to remove top deck / rear gearbox / center gearbox / front gearbox / motor.

[ColoradoNitro]

The ease of teardown is a definate bonus. I also can't help but think the shaft drive system would be alot more durable/reliable than belts.

Does the kit come w/a decent header and pipe? The header is the main thing. It doesn't seem like it would be too big of a deal to change the pressure fitting on a normal pipe to the other side, or just have it on the bottom.

For the motor I'm looking at the Novarossi NS and RS 12. I need to find a website w/ good info on these. Novarossi's site just gives basic power specs, and the motors all look the same. Also thinking the Nova/Mugen MR 12 if it saves enough $$ over the Nova. Any comments here?

[coldeye]

Can anyone tell me where i can get the best price on this car?
Thanks

[StevePond]

Shop around. There are lots of places that carry it but the only way we're going to know who has the best price is to do what you should be doing - looking for the best price.

[coldeye]

Hey cool guy steve slow your role. Can't find this kit in my area and prefer not to shop overseas. Sorry if I broke your concentration Smart---.

[1822]

Uhmmmmmm, it is a pretty stupid question. If you have a computer, which you clearly do, then look up a few mail order sites and maybe eBay and you'll have your best price. *** - are you lazy?! ;) :D

[NiMo]

Can anyone tell me where i can get the best price on this car? Can't find this kit in my area and prefer not to shop overseas.

Now does one contradict the other?

Here in the UK the FW05 is not yet imported yet I know of 3 of us who have them.
And when they do officially import them the list price will be £350 ($593).

If you want one at a good price you may well have to shop overseas.

[adlawoo]

Hi! I got my Red(FW-05R) Box for almost 2 weeks now and I only just reviewing the manual since then.....

Do you guys used the one that Kyosho supplied for the steering linkage that attached to the Ackermann/R-L Hub or there's an optional adjustable turnbuckle from Kyosho or others?

Thanks!

[StevePond]

I don't understand your question...

Are you asking if we use the standard or optional center link for different Akerman positions?

Are we using the stock steering linkage rods?

[NiMo]

My steering is set up and used as supplied in the kit.
I have yet to get the bearings installed (still using the plastic bushes)

[adlawoo]

Thanks Steve! It's the stock steering linkage rod that I was referring to. Now that I haven't started building mine, probably there is an adjustable turnbuckle available or a mod that you guys did to your car...again Thanks!

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by NiMo
My steering is set up and used as supplied in the kit.
I have yet to get the bearings installed (still using the plastic bushes)


Yeah...I'm gonna get that Flanged Type 3x6mm Bearing too, that goes to the Blue Steering Slider Plate...

[cvccsi]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Hi! I got my Red(FW-05R) Box for almost 2 weeks now and I only just reviewing the manual since then.....

Do you guys used the one that Kyosho supplied for the steering linkage that attached to the Ackermann/R-L Hub or there's an optional adjustable turnbuckle from Kyosho or others?

Thanks!

You can purchase, if I recall correctly, two 3x15mm turnbuckles with the use of short and medium ball caps.

As for the steering bearing... it is better to have it replaced. I have replaced 4 bearing for the plastic busing and two flanged bearing. The flanged bearing is hard to find in my LHS.

[adlawoo]

Thanks cvccsi! I will try look for those...

[sideways]

Me and my friend is thinking about buying this car for the sport class in our local track. I was wondering, does this car accept pullstart engine, side exhaust? My LHS didn't know because they haven't stock it yet...

Cheers.

[StevePond]

Yes, it will accept a pullstart, side exhaust engine. There will be a FW-05S that will come with a pullstart engine, but that's not in the country yet as far as I know.

[NiMo]

Yes a Pull Start motor will fit in but you may need to put some spacers between the motor and the mounts to allow clearance for the pull start unit. Or purchase the FD20 motor mounts.

As for the exhaust, any that is made for the SuperTen/FW04 range would fit on to a pull start side exhaust motor.

[cvccsi]

Hi Guys,

Posting some images of my FW-05R.

[cvccsi]

another one

[cvccsi]

Last one.....

[YR4Dude]

So far I don't quite understand why there is a FW-05. IF you folks could please bear with me and then possibly explain. Initially, the car looks like an RS4-3 with V One R suspension components. Also this car sells for almost $400 with a centax style clutch and foam tires. So why is this better than the V One RR which now sells for less than $300?

Also, if this shaft configuration is the way to go towards nitro chassis design then why didn't HPI develop it further rather than coming out with the R40 which is similar to the V One RR Evolution?

[NiMo]

Eerm! ain't you missing something there?

that servo looks mighty lonely without it's horn and rods.

[NiMo]

Originally posted by YR4Dude
So far I don't quite understand why there is a FW-05. IF you folks could please bear with me and then possibly explain. Initially, the car looks like an RS4-3 with V One R suspension components. Also this car sells for almost $400 with a centax style clutch and foam tires. So why is this better than the V One RR which now sells for less than $300?

Also, if this shaft configuration is the way to go towards nitro chassis design then why didn't HPI develop it further rather than coming out with the R40 which is similar to the V One RR Evolution? Guess you need to drive one, then you'll have your answer.
An HPI it is not, this car handles and doesn't break on every piece of grass.
$400 ? guess you need to shop a bit more, I paid $299 and got it in 8 days.

[cvccsi]

Originally posted by NiMo
Eerm! ain't you missing something there?

that servo looks mighty lonely without it's horn and rods.

Yes, my servo is very lonely. :D

I am still working on a few Ti 2 speed hop ups. Once installed, the servo horns will find a good home. :p

[cvccsi]

Originally posted by NiMo
Guess you need to drive one, then you'll have your answer.
An HPI it is not, this car handles and doesn't break on every piece of grass.
$400 ? guess you need to shop a bit more, I paid $299 and got it in 8 days.

Well said. I got mine for about $290!

[1822]

Originally posted by YR4Dude
So far I don't quite understand why there is a FW-05.

This seems like a rhetorical question but I'll humor your flame bait with a reply. They made the FW-05 because it's a better car. All accounts of this machine on this board and in RCCA say its better than the belt car. Yes it's new and maybe some shops are not discounting it as much as a result, but this will soon pass and I think this will be the only car left standing. Hope you're not to attached to the idea of a belt-drive car. ;)

[nad138]

I'm ready to take the plunge on this baby as soon as I've disposed my 2 other cars (Serpent 705 and HPI R40). One question though is what starter box do you guys use for this one, since the engine is mounted on the right hand side (viewed from the rear :) ?

CVCCSI, care to share where you got your ride ? PM me pls. Thanks.

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Thanks cvccsi! I will try look for those...

Here's what I found @ Towerhttp://www.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc6192.jpg (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXV574)

and rchub.com have some too!



Hey cvccsi, was $290 shipped? Got mine here @ my LHS(NYC) $310 plus shipping. You mentioned that Ti pieces you are waiting..where it is coming from? Been searching overseas, but only alloy pieces I found(Square & Fivestar)

[StevePond]

I used the Team Magic starter box. I've used it now to start a 1/8 Mugen MBX-5, Serpent 950, Mugen MTX-3, and now the Kyosho FW-05R. It's a very veratile starter box that works for just about any type of car. The only thing I really didn't like about it is the rubber feet that attach to the bottom of the box disapear in about 5 minutes. Otherwise great box.

http://www.teamtrinity.com/images/products/111016.jpg

[cvccsi]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Here's what I found @ Towerhttp://www.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc6192.jpg (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXV574)

and rchub.com have some too!



Hey cvccsi, was $290 shipped? Got mine here @ my LHS(NYC) $310 plus shipping. You mentioned that Ti pieces you are waiting..where it is coming from? Been searching overseas, but only alloy pieces I found(Square & Fivestar)

Actually, the car was about $230. Plus $60 shipping the price came to $290.00. As for the turnbuckle, yes, this is exactly what I have on my car.

As for the Ti parts, I purchased the Square 2-speed shaft and 2-speed shoe holder. I got them overseas as well but is hard to find due to availability.

[cvccsi]

square Ti 2-speed shaft

[cvccsi]

Square Ti 2-speed shoe holder

[NiMo]

Already got them Square bits fitted, and the 3racing universals.
Will be fitting the 3racing carbon top deck shortly (time short at present)

Starter Box?
I'm using the same Mugen box I used for the V-one R, you just sit the car across the box.

[nad138]

CV, thanks for the info. Could you please list down what hop-ups you have on your ride so I can order it together with the kit.

Everybody else is welcome to post what they have in there cars.
Thanks.

[shogun]

:confused: Guys, some help please.... I can't get the front wheels of my 05R to go back to perfect neutral (center) once i let go of the wheel. I'm using a high torque servo for the steering and still no perfect centering of the front wheels. I also made adjustments to the servo saver spring and still the problem persists. Any solutions to my problem would be greatly appreciated.

[NiMo]

Check your steering linkages for freeness, and also the front hubs, you may have something a bit too tight and it is binding.

[shogun]

Thanks NiMo..... will check and get back if okay.

This is actually for a friend who can't access the thread.

[StevePond]

Nimo - in response to your concerns about gear ratio, here are the stock final drive ratios of some of the current cars:

V-One-RR Evo (1st gear/2nd gear)
FDR: 7.705/5.659:1
Drivertrain ratio: 2.526:1

FW-05R
FDR: 7.473/5.444:1
Drivetrain ratio: 3.077:1

Mugen MTX-3
FDR: 7.42/5.43:1
Drivetrain ratio: 2.52

Nitro TC3
FDR: 6.14/4.81:1
Drivetrain ratio: 2.5:1

So, the FW-05R has taller gearing than V-One-RR and nearly identical gearing to the Mugen.

[NiMo]

THanks for the info Steve, I have ordered some lower gear ratios from Hong Kong to gear the car down hopefully to get rid of that flat spot.
Saying that I am getting 9 minutes from the tank at present.

[StevePond]

It's my understanding that Josh Cyrul will now be running this car in the 200mm nitro class. He's running the Xray electric car. I think Josh will be plenty capable of putting this machine well up in the rankings.

[NiMo]

Wasn't he running the G4 in 2003?

[crikey!]

Wasn't he running the G4 in 2003

Yup, he ran the G4 at the Australian Nationals and has since switched to the FW05R...can't wait to try his setups, the guy knows his stuff!

[jeffreylin]

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

I am new to the nitro scene but not new to RC and RC racing. I am thinking about getting a 1/10 GP car and have been considering the MTX-3, NTC3 and now the FW-05R.

I see lots of MTX-3s at my local track but I also see these guys spending more time dealing with the belts than driving. I want to drive more and tinker less. So I think the MTX-3 is out for now.

The NTC3 has a bunch of loyal followers. They sure are fast and all kind of parts are readily available. On the other hand, the FW-05R is rare and I probably can only get parts from the internet and not the LHS. But from the posts here it seems like it's worth the inconvenience.

So here is my question: does anyone here have experience with both the NTC3 and FW-05R? How do they compare with each other?

Any information will be much appreciated!:)

[NiMo]

Here in the UK the TC3 suffers badly from rear diff failures, more so if you run on Foam. Only those with the money and the time run a TC3, but they do get results.

Spares support for anything Kyosho is as good as zero in the UK, but shipments from Hong Kong only take around 6 days.

Since I have run a lower 1st gear I have started to wear the rear diff, but the front is as new. Hopefully the Machined Steel diffs will be with the dealers shortly.

[Buggy Master]

jeffreylin, i went from a gt4, to a ntc3, to an mtx 3 and now an fw-o5r (on order). on my mtx 3, dealing with belts have not been an issue. do you race in a dirty parking lot? if so, shaft drive may be better, less maintanence. personally, i would rather change belts than rebuild diffs on the ntc3. the mtx 3 is the best handling car i have set up so far and well worth the time to do a little preventive maintanence. as for comparing the ntc3 and fw-o5r, i am still waiting for my kit to come in:(

[Buggy Master]

since the fw-o5r's engine placement is unconventional, what brand of starter box do you guys use? it looks like the dynamite torque start will work. any sugguestions?

[NiMo]

I'm still using the same box as for my retired V1, a Mugen box, I just place the car across the box (just needed to drill a few holes and make some new locating lugs)

[StevePond]

I use the Team Magic starter box on my FW-05R. It works with engines mounting on the right side of the chassis, and the locator lugs are adjustable enough to fit the 05R without a problem.

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by Buggy Master
jeffreylin, i went from a gt4, to a ntc3, to an mtx 3 and now an fw-o5r (on order). on my mtx 3, dealing with belts have not been an issue. do you race in a dirty parking lot? if so, shaft drive may be better, less maintanence. personally, i would rather change belts than rebuild diffs on the ntc3. the mtx 3 is the best handling car i have set up so far and well worth the time to do a little preventive maintanence. as for comparing the ntc3 and fw-o5r, i am still waiting for my kit to come in:( So I guess your post leads to my next question--you seem very happy with the MTX-3 so why are you getting a FW-05R? Are you keeping your MTX-3 or replacing it?

I wonder how you would like the FW-05R's handling compare to the MTX-3. Anyone else care to share?

Thanks!

[Buggy Master]

we race 2 classes at our local track, stock (rubber tire and roar legal engine) and outlaw (foam tire and any .12 engine). i race both classes and have 2 mtx 3s. our track is approximately 150' x 40' (?) and technical. i was hoping to gain corner speed and acceleration out of corners while still having the great handling the mtx 3 has. really, i just have an urge to try a shaft driven car again, something different (in stock class). i plan to keep the mtx 3 until i can get the fw-o5r setup and compare my lap times.

[Buggy Master]

has anyone compared the higher vs. lower rear hinge pin block? which one will provide more rear traction for rubber tires? on my mtx 3, the A rear block (lower) has more rear traction with 3 degrees toe in. perhaps the fw-o5r will not need a lower roller center since it looks like a lot more weight is on the rear tires and therefore less rear toe in also. any comments?

[NiMo]

Do not run more than 2 degree toe in on the rear, as it makes the rear end do nasty unpredictable things.

You may find the FW05 lacking in the steering area compared to the MTX3, I have spent a lot of time dailling in more steering.

I have also found that since I've lowered the 1st gear that I am starting to wear out the rear diff ring gears, and the car just wants to light up its tyres far too easily, I will be going back to the taller 1st gear but shortest 2nd gear for a 155ft main straight.

(these comments are for Rubber set up)

[Buggy Master]

thanks for your advise, nimo. as mentioned ealier, our track is fairly small and technical, what would you recommend to gain steering. i plan to try the optional steering rack that has 2 additional holes and the usual suspension tuning ie, toe out, lighter diff fuid, etc. would you mind posting your rubber tire setup:D

[NiMo]

I'm still trying things but as I'm not under much pressure from others at present I haven't had the need to find the limits.

Tyres: use same tyre and insert all round.
Shocks: 60wt front, 35wt rear, same spring all round, shock tops on outer holes.
Diffs as kit. Roll Bars as kit.
1 degree camber all round, 1 degree toe out front, 1 degree toe in rear.
5mm ride all round.
front 198mm, rear 199mm (not planned, it just is)
Currently Dodge 2, but soon to change to Dodge 1 for more front end (also have a Skyline R32 made by Vixen that looks similar to Dodge 1, but being 2 door allows larger side cut outs).

When building car, do pay special attention to spacers for the diffs, took me about an hour on each to get spaced nicely with no binding or slop.

(UK climate much colder and damper than US climate, hence Rubber being more popular than Foam).

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by Buggy Master
we race 2 classes at our local track, stock (rubber tire and roar legal engine) and outlaw (foam tire and any .12 engine). i race both classes and have 2 mtx 3s. our track is approximately 150' x 40' (?) and technical. i was hoping to gain corner speed and acceleration out of corners while still having the great handling the mtx 3 has. really, i just have an urge to try a shaft driven car again, something different (in stock class). i plan to keep the mtx 3 until i can get the fw-o5r setup and compare my lap times.
Thanks Buggy Master, I look forward to your comparison results!

[Buggy Master]

Originally posted by NiMo
I'm still trying things but as I'm not under much pressure from others at present I haven't had the need to find the limits.

Tyres: use same tyre and insert all round.
Shocks: 60wt front, 35wt rear, same spring all round, shock tops on outer holes.
Diffs as kit. Roll Bars as kit.
1 degree camber all round, 1 degree toe out front, 1 degree toe in rear.
5mm ride all round.
front 198mm, rear 199mm (not planned, it just is)
Currently Dodge 2, but soon to change to Dodge 1 for more front end (also have a Skyline R32 made by Vixen that looks similar to Dodge 1, but being 2 door allows larger side cut outs).

When building car, do pay special attention to spacers for the diffs, took me about an hour on each to get spaced nicely with no binding or slop.

(UK climate much colder and damper than US climate, hence Rubber being more popular than Foam).

thanks again, nimo. well you may not be under much pressure, but i am. we have close competition here. i had my share of race wins but lately i've been coming in second place in the a-main. i think i tapped out the limits of my mtx 3 (the best i know), although the guy that consistantly wins also has an mtx 3. i also use the same tire and insert all round. it is interesting that you only use 1* of rear toe in. i have always used 2* and only now trying 3*. i also never use roll bars front or rear with rubber tires. we must race on totally different tracks and like you said different climates (i'm in hawaii). as for bodies, i have never heard of a dodge 1 or 2. most racers use the a dodge stratus, alfa 2.1, crowd pleaser, etc. you probably never heard of our names.:D as for rubber tires, sorex 36r, 40r or yokomo 138g work best. thanks for the tip on shimming the diff. i have experience doing this mostly on my kanai 2 and outlaw t-maxx. any other tips not mentioned on previous posts will be appreciated. now if only my kit would come in. i expect it to be delivered this friday or saturday.:(

[NiMo]

Difference in language as well, the Dodge is the Stratus.
We call the 1st version Dodge 1, and the 2.1 version Dodge 2. We have most of the Protoform shells as they work the best.

I went to Honolulu for the Kyosho Cup World Finals in 1999, and got totally caught out on the tyre side.
Here were running the 25 and 30 tyres, we knew it would be warmer so we armed up with 30's and 40's, but found that the 30's only last 2 minutes before cooking, and the 40's caused too many grip rolls.
WE were not alone, most Europeans had too softer tyres, whereas the Japanese and US guys had the original Kit tyres (about 50 grade) which were the tyre too have.
It was probably the only time Europe was behind Germany as there one team was the only Euro team in the main, and when it started raining with 10 minutes to go we discovered the US and Japanese couldn't drive in the wet, the Germans came from 5th place 20+ laps down to take the win.

Present UK tyre is either Take Off 22's or 27's or 21mm Pit 20's/25's D98J's for the wet.

[jeffreylin]

Can someone start a thread on the Kyosho Evolva (I can't). This look to be the next hot 1/8 to have.

[Buggy Master]

wow nimo, small world. i was at the kyosho cup race, not as a racer but just watching. i was more into off road back then. i somewhat remember how the finals went as you described. we had 3 teams representing hawaii but finished somewhere in the middle. did you go to the kyosho cup race in china? 2 racers from here went. they did bad in qualifying but they bumped all the way up to the semi finals. they would have made it into the finals but they broke an axle while in the lead. too bad. i race with the same 2 racers every other sunday. one of them is the one i mention who consistantly wins but i am right behind him. hopefully the fw-o5r will give me an edge.;)

[crikey!]

Very small world indeed!

I too was in Hawaii and China,

one of them is the one i mention who consistantly wins but i am right behind him

Would that be Bobby or Ranald???

tell them the "Big Guy" from Australia said to say hello!


mahalo!


Luis

[NiMo]

Yo Luis, It's Nigel, we meet again.

I was at both Honolulu and Beijing, but gave up with the 2003 UK series as they changed the rules 2/3rds through the series (40 minute finals reduced to 20 minutes) to give advantage to there preferred candidate, therefore I have now Quit Kyosho cup racing.
A shame really as the FW05S looks like being the new Cup car.

[StevePond]

Nimo - just curious, who was the "preferred candidate" and why do you think they were catering to this person or team by shortening the mains? What did the person or team have to gain by running shorter mains that wouldn't also be a benefit to everyone else. I ask because I wasn't there and I'm curious. Not trying to divert the thread, but this is something I hadn't heard before.

[NiMo]

First rule change was to shorten 40 minute finals to 30, I still beat them, so it was dropped to 20 minutes, which allowed those who set cars up for new tyres to have the advantage.

Second rule change: original rounds to count was 4 + final double points round, which meant I should have won, but it was changed to 4 including final double points round, so I lost by 6 points.

Who was there candidate, the one who beat me by 6 points.

Kyosho Cup in the UK is run by the importer (who has still to provide me with the allowed options list for 2003), and the main guy from the importer is close friends with his candidate, hence the rule changing.

It was the worst run championship I've ever run in, and peed so many off that they only had 8 entries in the main class by the end of the championship.

got that off me chest.

2004, BRCA IC Rubber Series, Touring shells, 3 port motors, 16% fuel, 5.2mm pipe, 80+ entries, including 30+ works drivers, I'm looking forward to the challenge (best 5 from 8 count, but I only done 4 this year).

[Buggy Master]

Originally posted by crikey!
Very small world indeed!

I too was in Hawaii and China,



Would that be Bobby or Ranald???

tell them the "Big Guy" from Australia said to say hello!


mahalo!


Luis

wow crikey, as a matter of fact, bobby and renold were the 2 racers that represented hawaii. next time i see them i'll let them know you sent your aloha from australia.

[NiMo]

Having a real problem putting down the power

Aldershot England 7th Dec 03, air temp 43F, ground temp 30F.

Only a small turn out for IC at this meeting so all was in one heat (Foam and Rubber)

Q1, Could not get heat in to the 25's, every time i touched the power I lit up the tyres so the car went sideways, (Q3)

Q2, went to a 26t 1st gear and softened the clutch uptake, but still couldn't get any grip, (Q2)

Q3, tried 22's on rear, had rear grip just but front had mind of its own, would not turn, (Q2)

Q4, 22's all round, 27t 1st gear, finally I can control over the car but over drove it a bit trying to get the better of the guy with MTX3 on Foams who was still ahead of me (Q2)

Final 5 mins, started of in P2 with foam guy getting the jump, settled for 2nd until foam guy goes off in banking at 3 minute mark, 4 minutes and he's on my tail but he's running one-way meant he could get me on brakes, last lap he tried a move 2 corners from home but overshoots, I WIN.
(when packing away I found the near side rear wheel loose (battery side), 1st time that's happened)

I can test on Foams and use the 25t 1st gear, but on Rubber I have to use the 27t 1st gear to prevent the tyres from lighting up, So in my case I think it would be better to fit the 39t Diff Rings.

No racing now until Jan 4th.

[laro]

Nimo anything new with the car.

[NiMo]

I've got a few things to try at the track this afternoon.
I now have the 39t diff rings fitted which although needed to be shimed tighter, they actually feel freer.
Also I have lightened the diff oils, I'm gonna try the LSD (with it's supplied oil) in the rear and 30,000wt up front with the hope of putting the power down better on the current very cold and slightly damp track conditions we have during the winter months.

One recent change that does seem to works is the use of the MP7.5 air filter, the motor does breathe better giving noticable extra performance, shame it looks so hidious on a scale car.

[laro]

keep us informed of your progress.

[NiMo]

Here we are with the latest update (Mon 16:19), although tests were severly hampered by a track that felt like it was covered in grease, even the Electric 27t Stock class had trouble putting the power down and all were asking if there was a tyre softer than the D20 Pit Shumitzu D98J wet tyre.
As for my car, well on the Saturday I played with the clutch setting so I was able to slip it out of the corners and this with the extra grip the FW05 gives gave me a 2 lap advantage over the others in my class in all 4 of the 5 minute qualifyers, and a very comfortable 2 lap cruise to victory in the 10 minute final.
The 30,000wt front diff oil made turning in to the corners a lot easier than the kit 50,000wt oil but I'm not sure about the rear LSD diff as I found I had understeer turning left and could spin out when turning right (normally a sign of a tweak but could not find one on the set up gauges), I had this same thing happen when I used this diff in the V-one R which was cured by using 600wt shock oil, so I will try that oil again.
More updates soon.

[Buggy Master]

hey nimo,

just curious, is there a reason why you would run the lsd in the rear diff and not the front with rubber tires? i could see if you were using foam tires. are you trying to gain more on power steering? my guess is if you install the lsd in the front diff, you would gain off power steering and speed into a corner while still having the front diff pull on power out. this is just coming from my off road background on my kanai 2.

by the way, i am using 20k front and 7k rear on my fw05r. i also installed the optional steering link and use the forward most holes and have more than enough steering.

[NiMo]

I was actually thinking whilst racing on Sunday if I should have put the LSD in the front instead of the rear with the same thoughts you have.
Steering travel is not a problem as I don't actually use all of the lock, I found the cornering balance gets upset to much if you use a lot of steering which is why I'm trying to get the car to work with as little steering imput as possible.

Hmmm! LSD front, locks under power, 20K = better turn in, locking LSD would give feel of say 50k under power, yeow the brain hurts, must be thinking too much.

[Buggy Master]

nimo, if you get a chance and try it out in the front, let us know. i have extra lsd gears for my kanai but they are too big for the fw05r so i can't find out for myself. anyway, i got my car to handle a little better than my mtx3 while still having quicker corner speed from the shaft drive. i don't think i want to make any changes with setups right now.:D

[RacingEVO]

I have one of these and I race at Revelation Raceway in California. As of yet the car is fast but not quite there I have had some issues with getting enough steering on power yet maintaing a stable car. The last outing I had with the car my setup was almost there but gearing issues kept me from being competitive. I have put the car away until I can get the 27tooth pinion. Right now I am racing my V-one RR Evo and it is also an extremely fast car. I was testing on Thursday and I am sure that I had a car that was good enough for the A-main even a podium finish but an overzealous driver t-boned me and broke my servo but I didn't realize it until race day. It was a big race with some drivers from Associated, Mugen and Serpent present. Steve O'Donnel was there too.

[NiMo]

Check your gearing again!

I thiught I was undergeared at first but it turned out that I was over geared so the engine was not actually hitting the rev range but it gave the impression it was flat out.

Also you may want to use the 39t Diff rings, they give less drag than the 40t ones.

[RacingEVO]

No I am sure the car is undergeared. I do have the 39tooth ring gears.

My friend put the LSD in the front and loved it. I have a one-way right now and I'm thinking of puttung the LSD in the rear coupled with the one-way.

[crikey!]

I've tried the LSD with the standard oil in the front and didn't like it, it made the car feel really sort of darty coming out of tight bends, like as if the front didn't "pull" the car out of the corners and the car was tring to decide with which wheel it would drive..


It did however give a lot more steering than with a gear diff +20000..

[NiMo]

I was just going to report on my afternoon test with the LSD in the front with supplied oil but 'Crikey!' has described exactly what I found, I will now test another day with 10,000 in the LSD to see if that works.
I done some testing with tracking widths as the car was handling strange with the LSD diff and have found that running the front at 195mm and the rear at 199mm with 1 degree toe in (yes toe in) up front gave more power on steering but I will need to confirm this when I get the front diff sorted.

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by NiMo
I was just going to report on my afternoon test with the LSD in the front with supplied oil but 'Crikey!' has described exactly what I found, I will now test another day with 10,000 in the LSD to see if that works.
I done some testing with tracking widths as the car was handling strange with the LSD diff and have found that running the front at 195mm and the rear at 199mm with 1 degree toe in (yes toe in) up front gave more power on steering but I will need to confirm this when I get the front diff sorted.
There was an interview in one of the HK magazines with the designer of FW-05R (which, by the way, all but replaced the V1RR as THE car to have now in HK). One thing that he mentioned was interesting: he said that the FW-05R works best when you cut your corner as straight as possible and avoid trying to steer with power.

I suppose this this true for any car but nevertheless...

[NiMo]

But the corner I'm needing the power on steering for is a 180 degree constant radius corner leading on to a short but very important straight.
The point and shoot corners are no problem for me and is where I make a lot of ground, and that I don't have to back off as much to get in to the corner.
Here in the UK we have around 20 permanent race tracks for IC cars (+ the electric only tracks) and most have flowing corners which require power on steering.

One thing I found in a previous test was when I fitted rear tyres slightly larger than the fronts that I got my power on steering, but going in to the fast corners I would lose the back end as it was over driving the front, and being on Rubber a one-way doesn't work (and the rules say '4 wheel braking'), now when will Kyosho do a central one-way like they done for the SuperTen FW04?

[RacingEVO]

This is exactly what my friends and I have concluded. You reach a certain point with the setup when you try to get more on power steering that the car becomes unstable. It's either not enough steering or too loose. I could drive it loose for the qualifier but I can't keep up my focus like that for the 20min mains. I can't get lazy with the car like I can with my V-one RR Evolution. When the bite is up I find that this car is 10x quicker than the Evolution since they are traction rolling and the FW-05 is not. It's almost as good as the NTC3 in that area. I have to watch out now for the Serpent driver and his S710 because that car is good(not that the FW-05R isn't).

[jeffreylin]

FYI, Kyosho just came out with the steel ring and bevel gears for both 39 & 40T version. The part numbers are VSW018 and 019 respectively.

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by NiMo
But the corner I'm needing the power on steering for is a 180 degree constant radius corner leading on to a short but very important straight.
The point and shoot corners are no problem for me and is where I make a lot of ground, and that I don't have to back off as much to get in to the corner.
Here in the UK we have around 20 permanent race tracks for IC cars (+ the electric only tracks) and most have flowing corners which require power on steering.

One thing I found in a previous test was when I fitted rear tyres slightly larger than the fronts that I got my power on steering, but going in to the fast corners I would lose the back end as it was over driving the front, and being on Rubber a one-way doesn't work (and the rules say '4 wheel braking'), now when will Kyosho do a central one-way like they done for the SuperTen FW04?
Nimo, I thought my car came with a center one-way but I could be wrong. I got the Japan foam tire version and it came with the front one-way and the 7075 chassis and upper graphite plate so it might be different. In any case, I wonder if the front one way is what you need. I know you lose break but the car breaks ok for me as the CG is so low and the rear has lots of grip. I do have to break carefully but I think the trade off might be worth it. It also help the initial turn-in. Again, rubber tires probably works very differently but I think it's worth a try.

[NiMo]

I think I found what has caused most of the power on steering problem, it was the Dodge Stratos 2.1 shell.
I've just changed to a Vixen Nissan Skyline R32 and have found a load more front end without losing any rear, not only can I use more power out of corners but I can go even deeper in to corners before backing off.

Other changes that have helped are:
35wt shock oil all round.
30,000wt front diff.
Longer rear springs on the front.

Now to find a cure for my next problem, near side front tyres, I'm eating then up to much and can go through to the canvass in 20 minutes on a new tyre.
It could just be the banking we have at the end of the main straight, entering at 45mph+ with very little backing off.
The others back off much more and I can simply drive around them on any line I choose, but is this killing my tyre?

Central one-way, if someone can work out a way of putting a one-way bearing in the disc brake holder unit please let me know.

[Buggy Master]

Originally posted by jeffreylin
Again, rubber tires probably works very differently but I think it's worth a try.

i have no experience with center one-ways but i know front one-ways and rubber tires do not mix.

nimo, sounds like you need to just experiment and find the right diff oil combination to gain the on power steering for a constant radius turn. maybe try a lighter oil in the rear diff to loosen it up?

i am putting together a second fw to run in our outlaw class (foam tires, outlaw engines) so i will be playing with setups again. i will start with a similar setup as my current mtx 3 foam setup and go from there. we'll see if i experience similar handling characteristics as you guys have mentioned.

[Buggy Master]

ooops, took too long to reply:p.

not sure what you can do to fix the tire problem, maybe a harder insert. i have a similar problem but not as bad. 1 tire of my brand new set with only two 20 minutes mains and qualifing has ripped. and i did rotate the tires. i know using too soft of an insert can cause this. if you find a solution, let me know.

[NiMo]

The tyre problem I have is actually tyre wear.
I'm not ripping any tyres, I'm actually wearing them down to the canvass.

Power on steering is not a major problem now, guess the FW05 doesn't like the Stratos 2.1 which I've run for the last 4 months.

[Buggy Master]

if you are wearing down a brand new set of tires that fast, you must be blowing away the competition.:D solution: slooow down.:) just kidding.

as for the stratus 2.1, that is the only body i have tried with this car. so far, i love the handling. the next body i may try is the new protoform mazda 6.

[jeffreylin]

There has been a lot of discussion regarding gear ratio for the FW-05R. Many posts in this forum suggests that the stock ratio is too low. While the proper gear ratio has to do with the characteristic of the engine used and track lay out, I do think there is also personal preference and some myth involved (i.e., everyone says it's too low). Attached is the gear ratio chart for the FW-05R and perhaps you all can decide for yourself with some real data. The blue highlighted row is the stock set up.

***important*** this is actually a PDF file but I changed the suffix to bmp so I can attach it here (it only accepts jpg & bmp files). Please change the suffix to pdf after you download it to open it.

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by jeffreylin
There has been a lot of discussion regarding gear ratio for the FW-05R. Many posts in this forum suggests that the stock ratio is too low. While the proper gear ratio has to do with the characteristic of the engine used and track lay out, I do think there is also personal preference and some myth involved (i.e., everyone says it's too low). Attached is the gear ratio chart for the FW-05R and perhaps you all can decide for yourself with some real data. The blue highlighted row is the stock set up.

***important*** this is actually a PDF file but I changed the suffix to bmp so I can attach it here (it only accepts jpg & bmp files). Please change the suffix to pdf after you download it to open it.

[NorwegianNitro]

I cant read the gear ratio chart for the FW-05R i adobe ( missing fonts +++):confused:

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by NorwegianNitro
I cant read the gear ratio chart for the FW-05R i adobe ( missing fonts +++):confused:
For those of you not using a mac, you might have to download extra stuff from adobe to read this file. If that still doesn't work for you PM me with your email address and I will email a BMP file to you.

[NorwegianNitro]

Thank you, it worked (I didt think i ever would need japanese fonts) I cant read it :)

[SavageBurn]

Is the FW a better car than V-one RR evolution? I am trying to decide between the two. I will be racing occasionally and running on parking lots most of the time. I know that the shaft drive is better for parking lots but what are some of the other differences between the two to help me decide?

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by SavageBurn
Is the FW a better car than V-one RR evolution? I am trying to decide between the two. I will be racing occasionally and running on parking lots most of the time. I know that the shaft drive is better for parking lots but what are some of the other differences between the two to help me decide?
Since you are asking in the FW05 forum, the answer is obvious...seriously, they are both fine cars but there are more parts for the v1rr since the v1 series has been out longer.

[RCNitroDude999]

Awesome setup mane. I am currently running a hpi rs4 3 and a trinity g4. I like the shaft drive setup much better than the belts, so I've made it a mission to get this car a.s.a.p. What kind of motor are you using in your fw-05r?

[Godspeed]

Originally posted by SavageBurn
Is the FW a better car than V-one RR evolution? I am trying to decide between the two. I will be racing occasionally and running on parking lots most of the time. I know that the shaft drive is better for parking lots but what are some of the other differences between the two to help me decide?

Yeah me too. Hard time deciding on which kit to get. Which car is better in terms of handling, cornering, acceleration and durability? Which car is more forgiving for a beginner? Thanks in advance for sharing. :)

[NiMo]

I've not tried the 'Evo', I came straight from the 'V-one R' which I ran for 30 months.
I wanted a change from belts and was serious looking at the Ofna LD3 (NTC3 diffs too weak), but just then the FW05 was released which allowed me to stay with Kyosho.
What I would say is, when building the diffs, spend extra time on the shims. I spent about an hour on each and found the spacing on both different, and this was different to the manual.
I have just switch to the 39t diff rings which can be meshed tighter and feel smoother, but the original 40t diff rings still have plenty of life left in them.

[NiMo]

I would report on a new car setting I'm trying but with 4 FTD's and 6 wins in my last 6 races I've not had the need to try something new.

[HKmaxx]

Hi NiMo,
Have you got a set up sheet of what you are currently running?

[NiMo]

I need to make an up to date one.
When it's done I will post it here (Rubber Tire set up).
Give me a few days as I'm currently tracking down a new job.

[HKmaxx]

OK, Excellent.

[HKmaxx]

Here's a pic of what I'm running at the moment.

[NiMo]

Kawahara have developed a major conversion kit for the Kyosho FW05 which sees the motor move to the other side.

http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/fshou.files/FW05kc/FW05kc.htm

use this translator to read it in English:
http://babel.altavista.com/tr?

[jeffreylin]

I am about to build a new car (FW-05R) and cannot decide to use the LSD gears or not in the rear diff.

I think it gives you a lot of accleration out of corner but it also pushes under power.

What do you all think? worthwhile trade-off or not?

If I were to use the LSD, what weight of oil will you recommend so that it does not lock up too easily?

Thanks!

[NiMo]

I have tried the LSD in both front and back (not at the same time)and found on slippery tracks it made the handling very unpredictable. Also it gave the car too much push.
I would only recommend it if you use foams, as it is a major no no with rubber.

Done the 10 minute final today with no pit stop thanks to the steel bevel gears, I greatly recommend them.
The car is so free I had to gear it up one tooth on second gear.

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by NiMo
I have tried the LSD in both front and back (not at the same time)and found on slippery tracks it made the handling very unpredictable. Also it gave the car too much push.
I would only recommend it if you use foams, as it is a major no no with rubber.

Done the 10 minute final today with no pit stop thanks to the steel bevel gears, I greatly recommend them.
The car is so free I had to gear it up one tooth on second gear.
Thanks NiMo. I am running foam tires but I do see the unpredicability under low traction condition. I am still torn about it though. On one hand, it gives you so much traction that you can use it to correct oversteer easily. On the other hand, I wonder if I would be able to exit corners faster without it since I can apply more power when exiting corners without the push.

Do you think using a heavier oil will prevent it from locking up so easily?

[NiMo]

I think it would be better if a lighter oil was used so it would lock up quicker.
Shame Kawahara don't do their Negative Diff for the 05 as it was magic in the V1 (which now has a new owner).
The Kawahara Diff worked miracles in the wet making almost impossible to spin out, but the LSD diff in nowhere near effective and needs high grip conditions to work properly.

[xIIx]

Does anyone know how this car compares with the NTC3? Is it worth the upgrade or even considered an upgrade?

http://www.xfortress.net/ntc3.php My ntc3

[pleaseletmeon34]

Originally posted by jeffreylin
Thanks NiMo. I am running foam tires but I do see the unpredicability under low traction condition. I am still torn about it though. On one hand, it gives you so much traction that you can use it to correct oversteer easily. On the other hand, I wonder if I would be able to exit corners faster without it since I can apply more power when exiting corners without the push.

Do you think using a heavier oil will prevent it from locking up so easily?

If you look at all the Kyosho LSD's they offer at least two different fluids. One is red (never owned it) And one is black. Besides the color I'm not sure what the difference is.

[jeffreylin]

Originally posted by pleaseletmeon34
If you look at all the Kyosho LSD's they offer at least two different fluids. One is red (never owned it) And one is black. Besides the color I'm not sure what the difference is.
The set actually comes with the black oil. I've never seen the red one. I just wish there is some explaination of the gear set on the Kyosho web site so I can learn more about how they should work and affects your handling...

[NiMo]

The LSD works under load where as the Kawahara works under centrifugal force

[alexstjo]

Help!!

I am sure you have been asked this before but which car do I get?

The FW-05R or the V one RR Evo? pros and cons please

thanks
Alex

[Im2lazy]

This car rocks. It is the car to get here at my track.

But we found that some things had to change on the setup for it to work on our tight parking lot track. (Buggy Master found this because he owns with the car)

We had to go with a softer front spring (I use the silver Kyosho spring) with the lower rear arm mounts and the A ackerman position to get rid of some of the high speed off-power push.


If only I could stop crashing, I would be incredibly fast with this car (been away for a while and couldn't control myself, the punch and corner speed the car has is addicting)

alexstjo, no one is using the Evo here anymore. The FW works quite a bit better for most, but some don't like how it feels so they go with Mugen or whatever they had before. But that is kind of rare (it seems).

[JRKA101]

I have just finished putting the 10-million pieces together and found that this car has every possible adjustment covered. I cant wait to run the car. All of you have insipired me to build the FW-05R. Thanks!

There is a question I'd like to ask everyone. Is there an adapter for a motor with a standard crankshaft to fit the Kyosho clutch included with the kit? I would appreciate any tips, tricks, mods or part numbers.

Thanks guys,
Speed Safely :D

[NiMo]

I assume you mean like the shaft from the Kyosho GS15R motor as opposed to the more common SG shaft?

I don't think there is, but you could always get the VSW-30 gearbox kit which will allow you to use a standard shaft (but with standard clutch) motor in the FW05R.

[JRKA101]

Nimo, thanks for the reply. If i was to use the VSW-30 gear box and standard clutch would I be compromising any performance. I have a Trinity Black Pixi .12 motor I want to drop in. Its already broken in and I wanna see what it can do. I was told it will scream down the track.

[NiMo]

I think you would lose out with the clutch as I have found the 3D clutch very effective at putting down the power without excessive wheelspin

[JRKA101]

NiMo, Again thank you. I have a feeling you must love this sport. You have gone out of your way to help me and I am just a rookie. Your info is greatly appreciated.

I hope you dont mind me picking your brain. If using the "standard shaft" motor is out. Then the question is....

What motor is found to work best for the FW-05R?

[NiMo]

I have tried a few motor types, Sirio, STS, NovaRossi, and found that the NovaRossi is easier to tune and lasts longer.
Sirio AAC - compression died after two race meetings.
STS Dragon S3 - Still trying to break in, 27 tanks and it still locks up on the starter box.
NovaRossi RS12 S3 - ran this for a good 2 years, still going strong but now underpowered.
NovaRossi NS12 S3 - my current motor, 8 months 20 meetings + practice days and still going strong on original plug. I have won last 10 club meetings using this motor.

[jeffreylin]

I will second the Novarossi recommendation. I to have a NS12S3 and I have so much power I hardly ever use full throttle.

[JRKA101]

Gentlemen,

Thank you very much. The Novarossi sounds like the one to drop in my "05R". Im gonna order it ASAP. I will have to let you how it goes.

Aloha from a rookie and...

Speed Safely :D

P.S. are there any tricks or things I should be aware of will i break in and tune?

[NiMo]

I broke something !!!!!!

I managed to strip one of the top deck screws two meetings ago, one of the two that go in to the rear diff unit, but I didn't think much about it.
Well it's just as well I was doing last minute testing before the National this Sunday as the rear prop shaft broke.

Here's the run down:
Having one screw stripped allowed the diff case to pull apart, which allowed the rear imput shaft/cup to twist, which in turn broke up one of the input shaft/cup bearings, which heated up and melted the rear diff/gearbox housing around the bearing area, which then let this input shaft/cup flop around, which in turn snapped of the end of the alloy prop shaft. Fortunately the new machined steel diff ring was undamaged.

[JRKA101]

Nimo - Thank you for the recommendation of the NS12. Unfortunatly I did not purchase the NS12. I ended up buying a Mugen X-12. I picked it up pretty cheap from a freind, new in the box. My budget made the decision on this one. Anyway just wanted to say thanks again.
This car really flies. It handles the corners like a champ! But, I have a problem. It seems I am wearing out the front ring gear pretty fast. Its starting to make some noises. I believe I shimmed the diff correctly. It took me a while to get the right mesh.
Question is... Are there any hop-ups for the ring gear or diff?

Speed Safely :D

[HKmaxx]

Buy the optional steel bevel gear sets
part #VSW018 for the 39T
or
part #VSW019 for the 40T (stock ratio)

other bits and pieces here (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/rc_model/touring_rally/oneten/fw05r_option/fw05r_option01-e.html)

[NiMo]

Buy the optional steel bevel gear sets
part #VSW018 for the 39T
or
part #VSW019 for the 40T (stock ratio)

other bits and pieces here (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/rc_model/touring_rally/oneten/fw05r_option/fw05r_option01-e.html)

got beaten to it!

I have installed the steel diff rings, and not only does it wear much better, it can also be shimed a little looser allowing the drive train to run much freer

[NiMo]

Who was it that said' the pipe would go through the tank'?

Ouch! (http://mysite.freeserve.com/aldershot/images/4-picture1.jpg?0.595892709416731)

Trust me to catch the grass on the main straight, no time for following car to avoid me.

[HKmaxx]

Ouch. Will the freezer trick work on your pipe to expand the dents?

[NiMo]

I hope so.
Will update you in a few days.
fortunately I have a spare muffler for this weekends National at Snetterton.

[biped]

hey guys, i just picked up a fw05 to replace my serpent, i got some questions though about shimming the diffs, it seems that properly shimmed diffs will help reduce the wear,

because this is my first shaft car (no offroad experience), i'm a little unsure what type of "feel" i should be looking for while shimming up the diffs.

do i want to reduce the play between the gears to nothing, or do i want just a little slop, or even looser then that. I'm using white lithium grease between the input shaft and the diff gear, any opinions on this ?

[Pavel]

Hi everyone

Im an electric person mainly (had an unsuccessful experience with an HPI RS4 2), and have been out of the hobby for about a year and now want to go back, and am thinking about getting this car.

However, I won't be doing any racing etc. just want to get back into nitro, want something fast, yet reliable and adjustable.

I'm looking into purchasing the FW-05S Chassis Kit from RcMart.

Can somebody please confirm that it comes with an engine and a 2 speed?

Any experiences with the S chassis?

[NiMo]

All current FW05S kits come with a GS15R Pull-Start motor and a sports pipe, and are only single speed.

The Japan Cup version has a number of hop-ups and a 2-speed, but is not yet available outside Japan.

[NiMo]

I have got a major unforseen problem with the FW05, but it is not a car fault.
Due to us racing clockwise in the UK and the forceful nature of the racing, I have found that when someone tries that hard inside passing move that often end up in a T-bone move it tends to be against the right side if the car, now on most cars the pipe is on the left, but with the FW05 it's on the right.
I have now had 3 flattened (and split) pipes in 2 National meetings causing 2 DNF's, and what makes things worse is the non availability of right side 5.2mm pipes in the UK and to import them is costing me around $100 a time with postage.
All is not lost though, I have placed an order for the Kawahara ZT-1 Chassis Conversion which will put the pipe on the other side allowing me to use the many available left side 5.2mm pipes.

[jimmy]

I have got a major unforseen problem with the FW05, but it is not a car fault.
Due to us racing clockwise in the UK and the forceful nature of the racing, I have found that when someone tries that hard inside passing move that often end up in a T-bone move it tends to be against the right side if the car, now on most cars the pipe is on the left, but with the FW05 it's on the right.
I have now had 3 flattened (and split) pipes in 2 National meetings causing 2 DNF's, and what makes things worse is the non availability of right side 5.2mm pipes in the UK and to import them is costing me around $100 a time with postage.
All is not lost though, I have placed an order for the Kawahara ZT-1 Chassis Conversion which will put the pipe on the other side allowing me to use the many available left side 5.2mm pipes.

5.2mm pipe is easy to get. you can try www.rcsquare.com. Personally I think JPL is a good choice.

[biped]

I have got a major unforseen problem with the FW05, but it is not a car fault.
Due to us racing clockwise in the UK and the forceful nature of the racing, I have found that when someone tries that hard inside passing move that often end up in a T-bone move it tends to be against the right side if the car, now on most cars the pipe is on the left, but with the FW05 it's on the right.
I have now had 3 flattened (and split) pipes in 2 National meetings causing 2 DNF's, and what makes things worse is the non availability of right side 5.2mm pipes in the UK and to import them is costing me around $100 a time with postage.

you could glue a coat hanger rod, or a thin piece of plexi to the inside of you body on the pipe side, to reinforce your body, it might not save your pipe from getting dented, but it might save u from a DNF

[HKmaxx]

Hi Nimo

How is the Kawahara ZT-1 Chassis Conversion? Any pics and or details.

[NiMo]

Hi Nimo

How is the Kawahara ZT-1 Chassis Conversion? Any pics and or details.

Got a slight problem with it, the central driveshafts are a little short with the standard Kyosho cups, so I've had to order the central conversion which I'm waiting to receive.
I've done a temporary fix with a FW04 drive shaft but this is an old slightly bent item that fits a little too tight causing it to bind off power.
The car balance is different, their is a lot more power on steering, but power off is unpredictable, possibly due to the bent and tight front drive shaft.

[Ares17]

How do i differenciate an SG shaft and Pilot Shaft from the normal shaft on the Kyosho GS15? I'm still undecided on what motor to run for my newly bought FW05R. Thank you.

[NiMo]

How do i differenciate an SG shaft and Pilot Shaft from the normal shaft on the Kyosho GS15? I'm still undecided on what motor to run for my newly bought FW05R. Thank you.

Most .12 motors come with an SG shaft, and the kit supplied clutch assembly will fit directly to an SG shaft.

The most common motor used in the FW05 is an NSR12, 3 or 5 port depends on which class you intend to run in (if you have split classes)

[adlawoo]

Got a slight problem with it, the central driveshafts are a little short with the standard Kyosho cups, so I've had to order the central conversion which I'm waiting to receive.
I've done a temporary fix with a FW04 drive shaft but this is an old slightly bent item that fits a little too tight causing it to bind off power.
The car balance is different, their is a lot more power on steering, but power off is unpredictable, possibly due to the bent and tight front drive shaft.

About the center conversion.....the 45/17 crown gears goes to the front diff, right? And also - what 1st gearing combo are you running right now....Thanks!

[NiMo]

I done a deal with a fellow racer as we both race on Rubber, he had the 45 gears and I had the 46 so we didn't have the unwanted overdrive.
I have found that I can still get a good launch with the 21/51 1st gear even though I can use 20/51.
This gear ratio appears to be very similar to the Team Magic G4 ratio (the G4 being the car to beat at the moment on Rubber)

[HKmaxx]

Hi Nimo
How goes the conversion?

[HKmaxx]

Nimo - car looks great, thanks for the link.

[VWNTC3]

Nimo,

I'm also interested in how the conversion kit is handling. Is it even better than stock? I currently have a RREvo and was considering the the RRR since it's layout is so similar to the Evolva (whi