E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[speedyg76]

Well as the title says I broke the truck already lol. I was showing the wife how the truck ran and I snapped the rear half shaft of the drive shaft. I believe that it is the short shaft is this correct? If so where can I buy a new one? I believe I can get one from tower hobbies but is there anywhere else I can get a new one? Maybe an upgrade :D . Thanks fro any help guys.

[rc addict]

ahh see? thats where the upgrads come in. that doesnt mean go out and redo the whole truck does it? just whatever you break, maybe upgrade it if its a key component, such as the drivetrain. over time you might spend a somewhat large amount of money, but thats over a long period of time so youve had time to recover money.. once again...just an opinion, some might not think the same way

[speedyg76]

I just meant an upgrade of the drive shaft so I don't break it as easy next time not an upgrade of the whole truck lol. I will upgrade as I break things not all at once like some people would tell me to do. But I appreacite any suggestions that I get as I have no knowledge of this fine hobby as of yet, other than I break things pretty fast lol.

[Piggy89373]

rc addict, peace brother, but stuff like this is the time to promote an upgraded part. ;) I'm not looking for an argument either.

Speedyg76, I'm guessing you probably did that on a jump. If so, a replacement from Tower should work. If you're having trouble coordinating the finger (like I do) to leave off the throttle during flight, you might want to loosen up the slipper just a tad. If there is an upgrade that's stronger, I'm sure someone will come along shortly with a friendly suggestion.

[speedyg76]

Hey piggy thanks for the reply and I wish I could say that it was from a jump lol. I had the truck on the carpet as it is raining outside and she wanted to see the truck run. Well I had the truck in reverse and I hit the throttle a little hard and the damn thing did a perfect backflip and landed right on the tires. No problem right.... wrong I moved the truck a little and then snap and the truck just kinda stopped lol. Oh well live and learn right.... mental note (never run the truck on the carpet again and hit the throttle too hard lol). I would love to find a stronger alternative as I will have to spend about $37.00 just for the replacement and have it by friday. My son will be here this weekend and I wanted to show him the truck. Part is 7.00 and the next day shipping is 30.00 :eek: , so if I can get a stronger drive shaft I would rather spend a little extra money and get a good one.

[Piggy89373]

Speedy, I have no experience with this particular upgrade, but MIP has always produced quality parts. You could always try the MIP CVD Center Drive Kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLSS8&P=7). Not sure if this is the part you're looking for, but seems to fit your description.

[speedyg76]

Thanks for the help, I went ahead and bought the stock replacement parts as my hobby shop had them in stock. :D Now when I get home from work I can "try" to fix it hehe.

[rc addict]

speedy another thing you can try is changing the throttle position, or putting tape behind the throttle in order to get a really good feel for the truck at lower limited speeds

[Apophis]

Hey all. I'm new to the forum but have been reading it for a couple of weeks. There's alot of knowledge flying around in here! Speaking of a previous thread about upgrades, My maxx is mostly stock. Except for my HV MAXX Brushless!! I wouldn't have upgraded so fast but I just so happened to come into 300bucks that my wife didn't know about. If I told her I had it, she'd never let me spend it on the truck. I spent 250bucks last week on new 3700's, Body, paints, spare parts, etc. I just had to get rid of the money guys! I figured it would be a while before I could shell out that kind of money, so.... Now I am waiting for things to bust. (CVDs)

[Mild MAXX]

Let me introduce myself, RC newb, computer geek here.

After researching for a couple of weeks, I decided to get an E-maxx over the e-zilla strictly due to avaliability of parts and upgrades.
Then I noted the awesome deals floating around ebay, and finally snagged this truck. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6028143674&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1)

Though I am afraid it may be more truck then I can handle, with the stock
motors it should be controllable!

More pictures once I have it in my hands, hopefully in a few days.


Cinomed welcome to the hobby/sport ( depending witch way you go with it) your truck looks great it has alot of what I call bling parts ( all the alum.) thats ok it already has the stock motors so it should run good for along time you will have of fun enjoy.

[speedyg76]

Well I let the wife drive the truck and she hit a curb at full speed lol. I think I have set a record with all he parts I have broken lol. I've had the truck for a week and I have already broke the driveshaft, rear skid plate(boss did that), front bulkhead(wife did that), and the chassis(wife did that as well lol), the guy at my lhs said he had never seen an e-maxx break the chassis before lol. So I have a question for everyone. What chassis upgrade and what bulkheads would you guys recomend? Again thanks for all the help. Price wise I would like to stay around 150.00 or less for the bulkheads and chassis but I would like something strong and light if possible. If it has to be one of the two then I would take strong. :D

[rc addict]

Well if your somehow able to break that molded plastic tub chassis (wow props), carbon fiber is not the way to go since it will break even faster. If i were you, i would check ebay for hardcore racing emaxx aluminum chassis, or look for any well priced emaxx aluminum chassis. I have a rear pair of bulkheads in red i could sell in case you need em, but you say you broke the front ones? Try ebay once again, and if not, dynamite rc has pretty good ones. Another piece of advie i could offer is to upgrade the chassis braces to something stronger, because the way im picturing it, it mightve had something to do with those.

[rc addict]

wow, just ordered a novak hv-maxx kit. This should be insane. The only upgrades ill have for the drivetrain right now are teflon idlers, teflon lightweight steel input 1st and 2nd gears, dynamite steel cvds on all four corners, and center cvds. Do you think the tranny will hold up? i didnt purchase the metal output gears or upgrade the slipper clutch :(
Let me know if you think my maxx will still handle it with the upgrades i listed.

part 2: id like some crazy speed with this thing in 2nd gear, what spur and pinion combo would you suggest? I can always use 1st gear for fast acceleration...

[speedyg76]

Hey rc addict thanks for the replies. Yes I broke the molded chassis lol. I would like to get all red bulkheads front and rear if I can. The gorilla maxx chassis I am looking at is a red chassis so I would like to keep it all the same color. What do you guys think of the gorilla maxx chassis?

[Naossoan]

I'm not sure if I want to get an HPI Savage 25 (I have very little nitro experience but it looks like a sweet truck), a Traxxas E-Maxx or a Hot Bodies E-Zilla (The e-zilla looks really cool)

I want to see some videos of the emaxx and ezillas in action (I've already seen tonnes of savages on www.savage-central.com) Are there any sites dedicated to emaxx's and ezillas with lots of videos and pictures and info?

Someone please help me!

[Just Gundam]

You can try going to the local tracks and see if you can find out more, sure beats looking at the videos alone.

[Cinomed]

I'm not sure if I want to get an HPI Savage 25 (I have very little nitro experience but it looks like a sweet truck), a Traxxas E-Maxx or a Hot Bodies E-Zilla (The e-zilla looks really cool)

I want to see some videos of the emaxx and ezillas in action (I've already seen tonnes of savages on www.savage-central.com) Are there any sites dedicated to emaxx's and ezillas with lots of videos and pictures and info?

Someone please help me!

Well the electric vs nitro I can't really comment on, as I never had nitro and I am really new to this RC thing.
But I did a lot of research and hit every LHS around, the only ones that heard of the e-zilla said they were not carrying parts and did not plan on it.

So you may want to check your local hoby shops and see what they are carrying, heck a few of mine are phasing out their T/E Maxx stock going all Revo.

Oh I did notice a RC magazine has a E-Zilla reveiw this month, forget the name, aw it at Wally World. Maybe with some reveiws like that the ezilla will finally catch on.

[mp7maxx]

i have a problem today i broke my first set of front bulkheads and the right lower arm on the front. What should get to replace them. my budget is maybe 60 till the summer comes

[rc addict]

i was wondering, now that I bought alot of upgrades for my emaxx tranny, what kind of grease do you use for the transmission (specific brand, name, model) and where do you get it?? website links? lemme know, thanks

[mp7maxx]

maybe associated black grease? you should be able to get it at your lhs but if not i think tower has it.

[tadium54]

mp-the new integy bulks are cheap and strong. id also recomend going for a titanium hingepin setup. just get a replacement arm id say. i have rpm ones and theyre stronger than stock, but they might run your budget over

[Maxxcrazy]

Heres my newest creation. The only stock parts are the diffs.

http://tinypic.com/ke93s4.jpg

[rc addict]

oh nice i have a new tube of associated black grease from my rc18t factory team i just got. btw maxx crazy how come you only have one motor and battery pack rather than two of each? wouldnt you want more torque?

[kurrz]

Do any of you use a dual batery charger? If so would you recommend one? Thanks

[Cinomed]

Heres my newest creation. The only stock parts are the diffs.

http://tinypic.com/ke93s4.jpg

And wheels, not tires but wheels.

I would assume that is a crawler?

Oh you know what, I just noticed those are narrowed tires, assume you narrowed the wheels too, wow, that is a lot of fine craftsmanship there, how much did you do yourself?

[Cinomed]

i have a problem today i broke my first set of front bulkheads and the right lower arm on the front. What should get to replace them. my budget is maybe 60 till the summer comes

Well here is about the least expensive Aluminum bulkheads I have ever seen.
http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/6061_T_6_Bulkheads.cfm

You may do better on ebay is you shop for a couple of weeks...Example
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6028931487&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_ReBay_Pr4_PcY_BID_IT

Now for the arms, Stock ones run about 8 bucks, 10 bucks for RPM's.
If you can afford it I would probably ugrade to RPM's on both sides.
All eports are they are much more stout then stock, though I am unsure if you will need new Hinge pins for the RPM arms, that would put the price up there a bit.

[tadium54]

if youre going to go for aluminum bulks, you might as well get titanium hinge pins. if you break an arm in the bulkhead and try to get a bent pin out of the aluminum, you'll have a tough time to say the least

[Maxxcrazy]

And wheels, not tires but wheels.

I would assume that is a crawler?

Oh you know what, I just noticed those are narrowed tires, assume you narrowed the wheels too, wow, that is a lot of fine craftsmanship there, how much did you do yourself?

All of it.

The tires aren't narrowed, the wheels have the inner bead cut off.

[mp7maxx]

thx for the help ill just use my tl01 till my budget builds

[rc addict]

i just received my hvmaxx system. im really excited about installing it soon, but a note came in it saying that all warranty coverage is void if you overgear the emaxx, and that you have to change the stock gearing. I have 14 cells in my e-maxx, and a 14t and 13t RRP metal pinion on the way by mail. what spur gear size do you guys recomend for good speed, but wont send my truck way overheated?

[papapackard]

The HV maxx instructions have a gearing guide in them. Follow them. Here is thePDF (http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/HVWiring_Motor_Ins.pdf) and an important gearingupdate (http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/hvMaxx_gearing_addendum.pdf) :cool:.

[rc addict]

My only problem is i read those, but i ordered 13 and 14 tooth pinions. I have 14 cells and stock spur. It recomends a 12 tooth pinion. But i am wondering what size larger a spur i will need if i have a 14 and 13 tooth pinion. will a 70 tooth work? or a 72?

[rc addict]

for now, i set the hvmaxx up for the stock gearing and its simply amazing, i noticed it was choppy at the throttle at the beginning, and i still havent figured much out about the esc settings. for now, it can only go forward and brake. How do i set it up to have reverse and brake? do i need to break the motor in at 1/4 throttle for some time?

[metalry101]

for now, i set the hvmaxx up for the stock gearing and its simply amazing, i noticed it was choppy at the throttle at the beginning, and i still havent figured much out about the esc settings. for now, it can only go forward and brake. How do i set it up to have reverse and brake? do i need to break the motor in at 1/4 throttle for some time?
There is no break in period for a BL motor. The only thing you could possibly wear in are the bearings, and those don't need to be broken in.

[rc addict]

ok thanks alot, but im still not sure how to set reverse. How do i set it up? i tried holding dow the button and it just turns all the leds on and they flash once and its back to normal.

[metalry101]

Did you follow the instructions for setting up the ESC?

[rc addict]

What part of the instructions instructed setting up the esc? I checked it back and front (the one with the picture of the emaxx and twinforce setups) and it didnt have anything regarding the touchbutton setup. It only showed how to wire it and plug it in. Maybe im missing a manual or something because i bought it as a factory replacement brand new from ebay. The item is sclearly new, but it was sold cheaper as a warranty replacement item.

[kurrz]

Quick question. I just took a Maxx in trade. I threw in a couple of cheap stick packs and ran it in the basement. The motors and batteries got to 130 degree's. Is this normal? Also how big is a 550 motor? It was supposed to have wild maxx motors but these look like normal silver can 540's. Any replies appreciated. Thanks. Also do these trucks make more mechanical noise than say a stampede?

[metalry101]

Quick question. I just took a Maxx in trade. I threw in a couple of cheap stick packs and ran it in the basement. The motors and batteries got to 130 degree's. Is this normal? Also how big is a 550 motor? It was supposed to have wild maxx motors but these look like normal silver can 540's. Any replies appreciated. Thanks. Also do these trucks make more mechanical noise than say a stampede?
Mechanical noise? Oh dear God yes. I'd say the E-Maxx is probably the halfway point for r/c cars when it comes to noise. Touring cars are all but silent when properly set up, and nitro monsters are loud as hell, and the E-Maxx fits smack in the middle, easily the loudest electric truck out there.

A 550 is the same diameter as a 540 I believe, but with a longer can. Do the motors you're running have white fans in them? If so, they're probably the stock 550's with the little ring removed. If not, they probably are 540's, as I've never seen a 540 w/ a fan (but there could be some out there).

As for the temps...sounds like you either have some bind in your drivetrain, or your gearing is off. E-Maxxes aren't easy on batteries by any stretch of the imagination, but they're usually not that hard on them, unless they're cheap packs.

[metalry101]

What part of the instructions instructed setting up the esc? I checked it back and front (the one with the picture of the emaxx and twinforce setups) and it didnt have anything regarding the touchbutton setup. It only showed how to wire it and plug it in. Maybe im missing a manual or something because i bought it as a factory replacement brand new from ebay. The item is sclearly new, but it was sold cheaper as a warranty replacement item.
Here (http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/HVMaxx_Instructions.pdf) is your instruction manual in PDF format.

It sets up like every other Novak. Press and hold the set button, turn the ESC on, and continue to hold the set button until the light turns red. Then give it full throttle until it turns green, then give it full brakes until it blinks green. Then return it to neutral. Once you're done, wait for the light to return to red, then you're ready to rock and roll. Once you've mastered that, you will have mastered setting up all Novak ESC's, as that's how they all work. It's a beautiful thing.

[kurrz]

I'm thinking these motors don't belong in this truck. Any motor suggestions? I checked the truck for binding and didn't find any. The diff. action seemed good. I just don't have a good starting point. Oh well. I'll get it figured out with a little help. Thanks

[metalry101]

The stock Titans work great. I'd try them out first. I don't think you'll be dissapointed with their performance, as they have no problems moving the truck around.

[Chachi_RC]

Hey guys! It has been a while since I have posted in here, so I hope the new year is going good! So I have ran into an issue as far as the family goes, with a new baby at home, and may need to sell my Emaxx. I am probably going to post it on Ebay, but I was thinking that I would check with all of you first. Being that you can appreciate how cool this truck is! I don't know if I am not supposed to sell anything through these forums or not, but I thought I would at least throw this out there. Some of the stuff I have done to it include:
-Integy Super Duty II Front & Rear Alum. Bulkheads (Never run yet)
-New Revo wheel & tire set (Never run yet either) & Originals
-Cheapbatterypacks.com 7 cell 2600 emaxx batteries ($90 new w/ only 10 runs on them) & 2 other 6 cells batteries that are newer.
-Plus some stock extra parts and bodies and more!
It has been used for bashing in the 3-4 months of the summer of '05, as I bought it in August of 2004. It is used, but not in bad shape. I thought I would put it with all the stuff on Ebay for about $300, but if any of you have an interest, just let me know. Thanks guys! I do plan to be back with an Emaxx once things calm down in homestead! Thanks for all your help over the last few months! I do have a picture of it from 10/8/05 on page 82 in this forum, that I posted shortly after joining this group. Thanks again!

[kurrz]

Thanks metalry I noticed toniht on a run one of the motors is arcing like crazy. Thats why it was so hot. I think I'll order some titans. What gearing should I use? Thanks again.

[rc addict]

Kurrz, also be sure to open your center transmission and check all the idlers and shifting gears. When i opened mine after a while becauce my emaxx was sluggish, i discovered that the pins that hold the metal gears onto the idler shafts had been slided out by high rpms, and the pin was sticking out and digging into the plastic gearbox (really nasty situation). but i scraped off the extra plastic and fortunately that day my teflon input setup came and i replaced it. Now the motors dont run hot, and im running an hvmaxx.

ALSO PLEAE HELP ME SET UP REVERSE WITH MY HVMAXX. IT SEEMS ITS ONLY ABLE TO GO FORWARD AND BRAKE, AND IVE READ THE MANUAL AND TRIED ALMOST EVERYTHING. WHAT DO YOU PRESS OR HOLD AND FOR HOW LONG DO YOU DO IT? WHAT HAS TO BLINK OR WHAT LIGHT HAS TO GO ON???

[metalry101]

Thanks metalry I noticed toniht on a run one of the motors is arcing like crazy. Thats why it was so hot. I think I'll order some titans. What gearing should I use? Thanks again.
Stock gearing consists of 18 tooth pinions and a 66 tooth spur. That said, I don't care if my truck wheelies, and I like the truck to be nice and fast, so I run 20/66 gearing. That's pretty tall, so unless you've got some pretty good batteries, I wouldn't suggest that setup.

[metalry101]

Kurrz, also be sure to open your center transmission and check all the idlers and shifting gears. When i opened mine after a while becauce my emaxx was sluggish, i discovered that the pins that hold the metal gears onto the idler shafts had been slided out by high rpms, and the pin was sticking out and digging into the plastic gearbox (really nasty situation). but i scraped off the extra plastic and fortunately that day my teflon input setup came and i replaced it. Now the motors dont run hot, and im running an hvmaxx.

ALSO PLEAE HELP ME SET UP REVERSE WITH MY HVMAXX. IT SEEMS ITS ONLY ABLE TO GO FORWARD AND BRAKE, AND IVE READ THE MANUAL AND TRIED ALMOST EVERYTHING. WHAT DO YOU PRESS OR HOLD AND FOR HOW LONG DO YOU DO IT? WHAT HAS TO BLINK OR WHAT LIGHT HAS TO GO ON???
Unplug the ESC from the reciever. Turn the ESC on. Hold the set button until ALL (I believe there are two, a red and green, but there could be more) L.E.D.'s light up. Then release the set button. The L.E.D.'s will begin to flash. They'll flash either once, twice, or three times. You want them to flash once. If they flash twice or three times, hit the set button until the L.E.D.'s only flash once. That indicates that the ESC is set up in the standard Full Foward/Brakes/Full Reverse profile. If it is setup in that profile and you still don't have reverse, call or e-mail Team Novak, as it is most likely an internal problem with the ESC.

[rc addict]

metalry you are a life saver, thanks alot...time to go bash at top speed

[kurrz]

Could you suggest some pretty good batteries? Thanks

[rc addict]

7 cell gp3300s from promatchracing

[Piggy89373]

kurzz, also look at the GP3300's at Radio Shack. I've been using them for the past month now. They have great punch and run time as you would expect from GP cells. At 24 bucks a pack, it's a pretty good deal.

Tire Question: I'm looking at road tires, but I don't want something that's so huge I have to change the gearing. Any suggestions? If the recommended tire requires a different rim and adapter, please let me know. I'm not all that acquainted with MT tires.

[tadium54]

piggy- look at the regular proline road rage, or dynamite slicks. i have them both and they require no changes to gearing and are still very well suited to on road

[rc addict]

ok problem here with my hv-maxx system. They say that brushless motors produce more run time because of greater efficiency, right? Well i freshly charged my twin 7 cells and plugged it in and the emaxx was RIPPING up the dirt for about 3 to 4 minutes hardly nailing the throttle. Then the whole personality of the truck changed in a second and it was performing about or slightly less fast than the two stock titans. and then after around 10 minutes... it was drained. What caused the packs to suddenly dump out on me like that?? I charged them both at 4 amps.

[Mild MAXX]

ok problem here with my hv-maxx system. They say that brushless motors produce more run time because of greater efficiency, right? Well i freshly charged my twin 7 cells and plugged it in and the emaxx was RIPPING up the dirt for about 3 to 4 minutes hardly nailing the throttle. Then the whole personality of the truck changed in a second and it was performing about or slightly less fast than the two stock titans. and then after around 10 minutes... it was drained. What caused the packs to suddenly dump out on me like that?? I charged them both at 4 amps.

Are your packs old or would they possibly have a memory from half charging or maybe there is one dead cell this could cause the same thing. If you can try another set of packs this will tell you if its your batt's or your hv system.

[rc addict]

hmm i got my emaxx packs last year, and for sometime i havent used them. Maybe i should cycle them or something or charge them at like 2 amps

[brushless losi]

when i give my E some throttle it moves the spur gear but it seems the gears inside ar not catching so the car does not move. when i pick up the E at the front bumper and shake it up and down to slide the gear back into place then it moves for a little but then slides out again. some one know what i should fix nothing seems to broken inside the gear box but it is being slid out of place.

[Maxx42]

Do you still have the servo installed to switch from first to second gear? It sounds like your drive dog isn't staying engaged inside the tranny.

[brushless losi]

yea my servo is installed how do i engage the drive dog

[Maxx42]

Basically, the servo horn has a spring loaded shift rod fastened to it that directly connects to the shift fork assembly (all of this is outside the tranny and can be seen easily). The shift fork assembly continues on into the tranny where it rests on top of the drive dog. The drive dog will engage with one of the drivetrain gears (depending on which gear you're in low/high) and that is what allows the power from the motors to be transferred to the wheels. It's easier to see and understand if you visit Traxxas' website. Just click on the transmission assembly section, but you'll need adobe to view it (link for it also on the Traxxas page):

http://www.traxxas.com/products/electric/emaxx/trx_emaxx_views.htm

If everything is connected OK outside the tranny, then your problem will probably be the shift fork assembly not holding the drive dog correctly. I hope this helps.

[brushless losi]

team novak has these recommendations to upgrade the e-maxx for the hv maxx I want to know do these upgrades hold up or do they last for only a couple of runs. also, how fast does the e-maxx go with this setup

[metalry101]

team novak has these recommendations to upgrade the e-maxx for the hv maxx I want to know do these upgrades hold up or do they last for only a couple of runs. also, how fast does the e-maxx go with this setup
What recommendations are they? We can't tell you how the items hold up if we don't know what items you're asking about.

As for speed...30-40, depending on what batteries you're running, how many cells you're running, gearing, and how heavy your truck is. It should do every bit of 30, even on 12 cells, and geared for all out speed on 14 cells, it should get you to 40, or very close.

[brushless losi]

Recommended Emaxx Upgrades:

After extensive testing, we've found that the high power output of the HV-Maxx can be too much for some of the stock Emaxx components depending on how the truck is driven. We used the following performance upgrades for more aggressive driving or racing conditions, and recommend them to anyone who is running an HV-Maxx in an Emaxx. (Note: Not all of the upgrades are 'required', but in the long run, we've found that it makes for a more enjoyable truck).

Company Part # Part Description
Unlimited Engineering 13407 Super-Maxx Steel Idler Gear
Robinson Racing 8172 Heavy Duty Slipper - Comes with 72spur
Robinson Racing 8590 Heavy Duty Diff Gears

MIP (choose one) 1485 Front/Rear CVD Kit - original size arms
(you need two)

1525 Front/Rear CVD Kit -wider 2.5 suspension
arms (you need two)

this is from the team novak recommended upgrade page. Do u think these parts would hold up for a long time? because brushless motors have been known to break upgraded parts as well

[metalry101]

That depends how you drive, but they'll all hold up a helluva lot better than the parts they replace. It really does depend how you drive though. Some people would never break any stock parts with the BL system. Others would break every part on the truck within the first 3 runs. If you know how to drive I don't think you'll break any of those parts. It's possible you'll wear some stuff out eventually, but I doubt you'd break them.

As for the stuff you need...well...the CVD's are pretty much a must have, even without BL, the idler gears definately wouldn't be a bad idea, and the diff gears wouldn't be bad either, but I'd wait until you blow a stock diff. Don't bother with the slipper, just lock the stock unit down and then back it off by like a 1/4 turn. Slippers just don't really work on monster trucks. Too much power, too much weight. If it's loose enough to actually protect your drivetrain it's probably going to slip under other hard loads, decreasing performance. Lock it down and learn when to and when not to use throttle. One other part they don't mention that you'll want are CVD's for the center of the truck. The sliders going for the trans to the diffs are easy enough to break with stock power...BL will shred them. I'd actually consider these as important, if not more important, than the CVD's going from the wheels to the diffs.

Oh yes...and one other CRITICAL change you're going to have to make when going BL is gearing. Download Novak's little gearing adendum for the HV and follow it very closely. Novak's BL systems tend to run hot. Overgearing will only make this problem worse. Read through the gearing thing and figure out what will work best for your truck. You'll probably want to play around with it, depending on your driving habits and setup and whatnot, but it should give you a good starting point.

[kurrz]

Just wanted you guys to know a guy on ebay is selling power strokes with cvd's and ti turnbuckles as a kit for 100 bucks. Sounds like a good deal. Sellers name is powerhobbyy

[rc addict]

Just wanted you guys to know a guy on ebay is selling power strokes with cvd's and ti turnbuckles as a kit for 100 bucks. Sounds like a good deal. Sellers name is powerhobbyy

I just bought that package from powerhobby on ebay, and it came in a couple days, its AMAZING. Awesome deal for the money.

[kurrz]

Yeah I ordered one yesterday it's like buying the shocks and getting the rest for free. Even the shipping! Is proline going to do away with some of this stuff? Is that why the price has come down so much? I noticed tower discontinued the powerstrokes.

[rc addict]

hmm, its a possibility, but even so, ill take advantage of the low prices while they last!!

[rc addict]

hmm, its a possibility, but even so, ill take advantage of the low prices while they last!!

by the way does anyone have any fast techniques of taking off and putting on emaxx shocks? It is probably the most tedious part of maintenance and its at least an hour long job if your relatively quick.

[tadium54]

well, using only 4 shocks would make it faster, but if you don't want to that, use hex head screws to secure the top and take them off like that. the stock screws are crap for that

[rc addict]

the sghape of the screwhead for tools is half the problem, the thread is just so tight, it takes alot of torque to get it to turn

[tadium54]

exactly. get a set of 12.9 or 10.9 grade screws and replace the top screws atleast with them. then use either an allen wrench or hex wrench to remove them

[rc addict]

also im pretty pissed that i found out the duratrax ice is only a dc powered charger. i just received the charger and i all ready to cycle my maxx packs...and now i have to use my dads car battery to power it??? yea im not gonna go all the way downstairs and drag the charger there, open up the hood, carry the batteries down there and leave it thee charginf where ill forget it. Does anyone know where i can get a cheap 12v power supply to plug into my outlet around 30 dollars??? Will anyone sell a used powerbox to me?? what is the minum amps you can REALLY use cause it recomends 12.5.

[tadium54]

radio shack should have a decently priced power supply. if not, any ham radio store should have them

[rc addict]

i bought a 20 amp, 13.8V one from pyramid on ebay just now for 29.99 used...guess thats a pretty good discount if you look at other 20 amp power supplies.

[tadium54]

thats a good price id say. i have a tripplite 40 amp one that i got in a trade. its apparently like 200 bucks new or something. works well for all my e-maxx needs tho

[rc addict]

yea i just cant wait to get it, can i use it on multiple items?

[guver]

You can use the ps up to a total of 18-20 amp load powering any number of chargers.

[brushless losi]

has ne 1 tried two novak s4300 motors in a e-maxx? The reason i ask is i already got one and it would be cheaper to just buy another to get a good amount of power.

[tadium54]

i dont think the 4300 has enough torque to move something as heavy as the maxx

[metalry101]

has ne 1 tried two novak s4300 motors in a e-maxx? The reason i ask is i already got one and it would be cheaper to just buy another to get a good amount of power.
You'd need another motor and ESC, and then it wouldn't be very fast at all. The 4300 is slow...it's supposed to be slow. I'd be willing to bet that a stock Maxx on 14 cells would run with, if not outrun, a dual 4300 powered Maxx.

[brushless losi]

alright thanks for reply

[Burnout]

Haven't posted here in years! Anyways, just picked up an old school Maxx (VX12 ESC too) late last year for a good deal IMO ($140). This makes it the third E Maxx I have owned.

My question is I 'think' I have seen someone installed revo shafts and knuckles on their Maxx. I have only seen this once and never ever ran across a topic about them. I would like to upgrade all the shafts from the diff to wheels/tranny to diff and the knuckles to Revo.

I assume Revo's should fit? Is there anything else I should know? I'm also going to update it with wider arms and shock towers. I also need help with the steering and rear turnbuckle lenghts for the longer arms.

Anything you guys can help me with is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

[brushless losi]

Haven't posted here in years! Anyways, just picked up an old school Maxx (VX12 ESC too) late last year for a good deal IMO ($140). This makes it the third E Maxx I have owned.

My question is I 'think' I have seen someone installed revo shafts and knuckles on their Maxx. I have only seen this once and never ever ran across a topic about them. I would like to upgrade all the shafts from the diff to wheels/tranny to diff and the knuckles to Revo.

I assume Revo's should fit? Is there anything else I should know? I'm also going to update it with wider arms and shock towers. I also need help with the steering and rear turnbuckle lenghts for the longer arms.

Anything you guys can help me with is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

at http://www.rc-monster.com/ there is a whole lot of info about the e-vo (e-maxx,revo) conversion they even got a rolling suspension and chassis for sale at their products page just click under gorillamax

[Burnout]

Thanks for your help.

I'm just trying to find what Revo parts can fit the stock EMaxx. I don't have that kind of money for that stuff! Wish I did though! :p

[metalry101]

Thanks for your help.

I'm just trying to find what Revo parts can fit the stock EMaxx. I don't have that kind of money for that stuff! Wish I did though! :p
Wheels. Tires. Body. Hardware. Electronics. that's it.

[Captron X]

Hi everyone,
Just wanted to introduce myself-the newest of the newb emaxxers-to everyone here on the forum. I've spent the last 2 days reading this thread from the beginning and wow...what a wealth of information. My name is Lono, and I bought an emaxx a couple of weeks ago for my son(he's 8), and quickly found out that dad here seems to be having more fun with it than my boy( lol). The only mods I've done so far are center aluminum skidplates, steering servo skidplate, steel CVDs, and 7 cell IB 3800s. 6 cell Orion 3000s came with it when I bought it and are still used as well( though not as fun). I have an extensive background/knowledge of electric flight but have found the two to be quite different beyond the basics. Anyway, I hope I can add some knowledge to the pool as well as extracting some.
A quick question/problemWe've already encountered: While driving, particularly at higher speeds, our emaxx does not want to return the front wheels to center when steering wheel is centered...she tends to continue her turn which leads to oversteering in the opposite direction where the same thing happens.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Aloha,
Lono

[tadium54]

lono- welcome to the boards. my guess is that the servo doesnt have the torque to turn it at high speeds. upgrade the servo and get a better servo saver, and you should see a world of improvement. i changed my stock servo and saver to a cirrus cs-80 with a kimbrough 124 saver, and its a world of diffrence

[kurrz]

Lono welcome to the boards. I agree with tadium on this one, mine is doing the same. It's just a typical RTR servo it seems they all need upgrading. Also guys my powerstrokes showed up. Should I use the included 30 WT oil? I'm just bashing and I'm not real familiar with oil weights. Thanks

[tadium54]

kurrz- 30 wt oil should be ok for bashing i think

[kurrz]

Thanks tadium. Where can you find cirrus servos?

[tadium54]

tower might have them. if not, i can't seem to find their website, but check out the bluebird servo lineup. good torque for a better price lol. ill rotate the cs-80 out when my bluebird arrives. its a good servo for the price, just a bad casing. mines all cracked up. if you can afford it, go for like a hitec 945, or a digital if you wanted to pretty much anythng is better than the stock 2055 servo i think. i had either a 5945 or a 5645 for steering in my first e-maxx, and it was a beast. i got it wet one day by accident tho and fried it lol

[Just Gundam]

i got it wet one day by accident tho and fried it lol

Huh? The 5945 is water resistant, don't know if 5645 is...

[tadium54]

maybe the new updated ones, but this is about 2 or 3 years ago. and in hitecs defence, it was outside in the snow for about half and hour, and i did have a run away. i wish i didn't go outside that day, now that i think of it. i could have used that servo now

[kurrz]

I traded to get my E Maxx and it came with "wild maxx motors". I dont think that they are but, how can I tell? Also I bought some titans off of ebay and they are way more powerful. And in the trade I got 2 emaxx 7 cell packs and one of them melted yesterday on my first outdoor run. What would cause the melting? Thanks

[tadium54]

wild maxx motors? post a pic, or if they have a removeable endbell, thats usually the easiest way to tell. what could melt the pack? short circut, over heating, or bad luck could be any of the culprits

[kurrz]

Yeah the packs were some cheapy ebay mc nair packs. I'll pst up some pics soon. Also what kind of maintenace do the titans require? Thanks

[tadium54]

stock titans? not much. when you rebuld them, just get an air compressor and blast the junk out. im still running my original ones with no problems

[Just Gundam]

And for people without air compressor like me, use a vacuum cleaner to suck the junk out of the titans. Stick a thin paint brush or something into the end to loosen up the piled up junk, and they will get sucked clean easier.

[tadium54]

good point gundam. thats even a better route than a can of compressed air, which gets expensive

[rc addict]

I just installed the powerstroke shocks, and they just dont feel as smooth as the stock shocks...they are also much stiffer...do the shocks need likie time to break in or something?

[tadium54]

the bypass shock is supposed to be pretty stiff i think. when in doubt, rebuild them as the instructions say and double check everything is as it seems. you also might have too much oil in them too

[metalry101]

You might have too much oil in them or something. Have you tried putting them on your truck? That might make them smoother. If not, something is definately wrong. I've got Powerstrokes on my TNX and my MGT and they're both silky smooth, far and away the best shocks I've ever used.

[rc addict]

hmm, they are on my truck...but im gonna be honest, they're a b*tch to attach to the shock towers because the emaxx mounting screws are so tight in the threads. It was an hour long job. I can try and remove oil by unscrewing it while its attached to the emaxx, or i can let oil naturally leak out through use...what do you recomend

[tadium54]

take em off and rebuild em. thats your best bet

[rc addict]

omfg, for the first time, i took my emaxx out with the 7 cells charged at 2 amps, and they lasted FOREVER, with amazing top end. Id say it was way faster than my mamba 8000kv 18t. I little bump in my lawn no more than half a foot high with a gradual slope of 3 feet sent my emaxx flipping over close to 40 mph...I broke the body posts off the rear instantly, all four body clips bent and the body flew off... It smacked into a tree bumper first and bent the bumper mounting screws... one of the hex nuts on the wheels was loose after the run as well. I noticed that after my transmission rebuild about a month ago (the stock input gearshafts set pin had come undone and scrapped plastic out of the gear box every time i ran it) i found an open hole above where the idler gears go. The tranny was left completely open to dirt getting inside, so i put on a shower cap for now.... until i get a new trans case, what material can i use to cover it effectively without spilling anything into the tranny... i was thinking of using silicone or caulking glue...but it could leak into the gears and cause an absolute nightmare...any suggestions??

[jc2stroke2]

hey could someone help me out here ?im a noob at electric had nitro for years. heres the deal i got a clod for my boy and i want to hop it up some so it has a alluminum chassis and hotter motors now i need a speed control can the evx be used with one bat if not can it be used with reguler motors or do they have to be fourteen volt. i really dont have to good of batts yet and aint sure if they will work together like one will last 10 min the other 8 you now what i meen thanks,jared

[guver]

The evx can be used on 5-16 cells. 5-8 on the esc/servo plug and the balance of them (0-12) on the other connector.

The voltage should match the motors and may not have anything to do with the esc as long as it is with in specs of the esc.

[jc2stroke2]

so i could run my standard 6cell pack onthe other conector and runing stock motors it will work ok just like any other speed control? thanks,jared

[guver]

If I understand , then yes, you can run a 6 cell pack on one connector and almost any motor. just like any other esc. You will have to jumper the other battery plug thiough (easy job by hooking + to - )

[Legend_Car]

my stock steering servo is going bad. Can i put a 645mg from hitec in without getting rid of the TQ3 system

[kurrz]

I think it will fit right in. Right guys? I'm pretty sure they are all universal nowadays.

[Just Gundam]

Just need a new servo saver, kimbrough 124 will be good.

[Legend_Car]

thanks guys ill order one

[sobe164]

Hey guys, i just recently came up on a deal that i traded a ps2 for a e maxx. i wanna get a hv maxx brushless system in. but over on traxxas i cant seem to get people to give me the things imma need when i order it or when i break as i go. please give me a clue. i live in oregon, n i am hopping that i will be taking my truck to Wy this may with me. ill be out in the booneys with nothing too do. n i want my truck to rock my socks off while im out there. Please give me a list of up grades or what ever may be needed to keep my truck running for as long as i can.

[SerpentKing101]

im thinking full cvds (revo sliders if youre on a budget) and upgraded bulks, arms and shock towers. wheelie bars couldnt hurt either.

[lds12]

I want to upgrade the steering servo on my E-Maxx. how much torque is needed to make the wheels throw like a stadium truck even when the truck isnt moving, or is this not possible with a truck this heavy

[tadium54]

depends what your budget is, but the hitec 645 is good for a budget. if you want all out, go for like a hitec 5945, one of their new titanium gear servos or an airtronics. i run a cirrus cs-80 and its alright, bit the case is garbae imo. look for 100 oz at the minimum

[Just Gundam]

The servo saver plays a part too. While stationary on grass, my 5955 will just flex the servo saver (kimbrough 124). The servo saver isn't strong enough to transfer that kind of torque to overcome the enormous grip. Is there a stronger servo saver out there? :p

[tadium54]

I packed up all my gear, as we're moving and liquidated my other rides, so only the maxx is left, along with its support gear

Finally I got to put my truck backtogether, after about 8 months of being in pieces. let me tell ya something tho- it felt great to rip it up like i used to. I had some minor setbacks, like my rear end going completely limp. found out the screws i used to hold the tie rods in backed out. easy to fix.
heres whats on it so far
-bombproof torpedo chassis
-rd logics cvds(front, rear and tranny to front)
-integy alumium bulkheads(front and rear)
-shock socks on all springs
-rpm knuckles(front and rear)
-rpm arms(front and rear)
-rpm bumpers(front and rear)
-rpm towers(front and rear)
-rpm bulkhead braces(front and rear)
-hardcore racing titanium hinge pins
-proline titanium turnbuckles
-rc screwz ss screw kit
-cirrus cs-80 steering servo
-kimbrough 124 servo saver
-airtronics mx-3
-custom battery straps
-aluminum skids
-extended aluminum braces
-trinity black springs
-ofna aluminum antena holder batteries
-powerpoles on my connections
-proline peterbilt body
-modified traxxas tires on rpm titans(front)
-proline maxx paddles on rpm titans(rear)

tires
-dynamite slicks on rpm clawz
-proline road rages on velocity 6s
-losi lst tires on rpm clawz
-maxx mulchers on rpm clawz

heres my batteries and charger setups too(this could be long lol)
-tekin bc100L
-tekin bc210(i think thats what its called)
-2 novak mileniums
-integy 16x2.5
-duratrax pirhana peak(laugh if you want-my first charger and its stoll going strong)
-megatech juicebox
-dynamite mega1
-tripplite 40 amp supply to the dc chargers

used to have a duratrax intelipeak digital, but the power supply went, then the chrager finally went to...

batteries
-2 matched 6 cell 2400s
-2 matched 6 cell 3000s(stock metal hydrides)
-2 matched 6 cell 3000s
-3 matched 6 cell 2000s
-1 unmatched 6 cell 3000
-1 unmatched 6 cell 1800
-4 matched 7 cell 1700s
-4 matched 7 cell 2400s
-2 unmatched 7 cell 2000s

with any luck soon:
-dual rrp 19 or 20t pinnions
- a body that actually fits(like the crowd pleaser 2.0 for the mgt)
- a bluebird servo for my aching cirrus servo(have the replacement at hime right now, just waiting for the cirrus to die first lol)
-dynamite vision peak and 5 more packs if canada customs releases it argh
-dynamite aluminum shocks(tradeing some tools with any luck)
-maybe lock the truck in 2nd gear
-get 2 more maxx paddles, take the modified traxxas ones off of the rpm rims, put the maxx paddles on them, get some misc rims, glue the modified maxx tires on some old grren velocity 6 rims that i have and get like a set of maxx mulchers for the rear of my rig and run a mix and matched kinda thing
-complete shock rebuild with black springs and 40 wt oil
-fix an old body so i can run it with this rig;open bed, so i can change batteries easier
- a superduty xl just for the hell of it lol

and if anyone wants to see my tool roster too, lmk lol

[tadium54]

gundam- proline servo saver kit or the unlimited enginering setup

[lds12]

how are your feelings on the rc screws kit. I have one for my rc18t, i love it, prolly love one for the maxx too...

[tadium54]

so far i can't complain. stripped one screw so far, but i didnt expect much when using a cheap driver. im sure i'll have problems later on, but for now im good id say

[metalry101]

how are your feelings on the rc screws kit. I have one for my rc18t, i love it, prolly love one for the maxx too...
They're alright. I've got a set on my MGT...didn't strip any putting them in, but I do run AE's Factory Team hex drivers, so that does help a bit. Stainless is really soft...so if you're looking for stronger screws, I can't say I'd really suggest them, but if you're like me and your truck sees lotza water, it's nice to have hardware that doesn't rust. E-Maxxes shouldn't see water or anything resembling it, so it shouldn't matter too much, but if you wrench on your truck a lot, it is defiantely nice to have hex hardware vs. the phillips head stuff...

[Just Gundam]

gundam- proline servo saver kit or the unlimited enginering setup

Looks like they are the only choices left now. I was hoping to find a stronger stock style saver, as I am still reluctant to swap out my aluminium bellcranks and linkage :D . UE's is ridiculously costly.

[tadium54]

amen to that metalry, amen to that

[lds12]

Does the kit include all of the specialized screws like the body mount screws and suspension screw pins?

[lds12]

Where can you order cirrus servo's? I'd like to see how they compare to some airtronics servos

[tadium54]

no they don't come with the suspension screws or body mount screws, but im using aftermarket items for both of them, so im not too worried. cirrus servos i think may be discontinued, so try ebay

[lds12]

The UE servo saver looks great. anyone using one right now? what kind of modification do i need to do to get it on

[tadium54]

you probably don't need any mods to make it work

[tadium54]

i should mention all that extra good stuff i added at the end part is tenative- if i sell my old magic decks, my warhammer setup, my backup guitar and my skate gear, i should hopefully be able to afford it lol. ill also pick up some titanium skids/gorilla maxx skids and some rpm wear plates to replace the junky skids i have right now

[metalry101]

The UE servo saver looks great. anyone using one right now? what kind of modification do i need to do to get it on
You would need to attack the chassis with a Dremel. The T-Maxx has a plate chassis, so the bellcranks take up all the space between the chassis plate and the skid plate, whereas the E-Maxx's plastic chassis is a three dimensional piece of plastic that has part of the steering assembly molded in. You'll have to cut a couple little posts off, and possible grind down the little webbed rails that run down the center of the chassis. It's a PITA, but it's probably worth it. I did it to my stock E-Maxx chassis so that I could mount up the Pro-Line steering assembly (same as the UE with plastic bellcranks). It was tight...it actually bowed the front skid a little bit because I didn't take enough material off, but as long as I didn't clamp down on the screws too hard it worked well. I don't have any problems nowadays since I run the Bomb-proof Products Torpedo chassis, which is basically a sheet of Lexan.

Oh...and nice setup Tay...it's very similar to mine...whic I'm actually in the process of getting up and running again (it's moved once in the past year).

I'll try to get some updated pics of it, along with the rest of my monster truck fleet, up tonight.

[tadium54]

thx ry. its a ton of fun. just ordered some other goodies for the truck, hope all goes well

[lds12]

is the pro-line steering kit not made anymore?

[metalry101]

is the pro-line steering kit not made anymore?
Not really...you might be able to find one somewhere, or if you want one, there's one hanging on the wall in the shop I work at. If you want it, I could work something out with ya.

[alexrckid]

go with the PROLINE saver(p/n 17129).....you'll be happy. does away with having a saver on your servo..............

[tadium54]

stoped by the lhs last night after i got some groceries. picked up a 4 cell 2000 matched pack for half the price. ill use them to make more 7 cell packs. also picked up a set of maxx mulchers and some velocity rims, so it looks like those are my new rear tires. cant wait to go home again lol

[maxxmanxxx]

Hey everybody miss me! Well to bad im back anyway just kidding.Wow alot has happned sinc i talked to you gueys well the last thing i remember happening that i got my truck takken and fought for it backhttp://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/newreply.php#
Mad http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/newreply.php#
Madwellsince then ive worked my tail off and bought a real car its a 1985 olds cutlass supreme with a 307 h.ohttp://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/newreply.php#
Big Grin . now im fixing it to be sweet i got the duel exhaust iwish i knew how to post pics on the forum well enough of that back to the maxx so far i bought theproline powerstroke shock set the knew muscle 2.0 body proline steering setup hvmaxx system steel idlers 40 series beadlock with moab tires all around universals esp twin tube push bar up front hardcore twin tube in back phuw thats alot of typing by the way i search and pick.I also got a clod for my little brough and a lunchbox i also got a lunchbox a txt1 the futaba 3pmfm wow i blew alot of money maybe toomuch na http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/newreply.php#
Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)

[lds12]

just wonderin...but when my packs start to dump its like the truck doesnt even try to steer. I thought that the novak speedo would have some BEC regulator that gives the servos full juice til the truck stops, or am i wrong?

[tadium54]

my guess is your packs are dumping at such a rate that the speed of the servo suffers becuase its fighting for the power. check the voltage of the packs and see if theyre a little low

[lds12]

we'll they are just dreadnaught's so im sure they blow, as long as they blast for a good 7 to 10 they're fine with me. Im looking into getting 7cell packs, that and completely changing the steering set-up: proline steering, airtronics servo, metal horn, proline mulchers and maxx impact inserts

[lds12]

Is that really a dual brushless E-maxx on the bomb-proof website? that must be ballistic with 14+ cells

[maxxmanxxx]

thats cold

[maxxmanxxx]

but thats ok peace out

[lds12]

yeah...so back to the maxxes, i broke my rear body mounts, again. I'm sure i gotta get an aluminum one, but now im wondering, will the stock rear shock tower break where the body mounts slide in just as often as the plastic mounts brake themselves?

[metalry101]

yeah...so back to the maxxes, i broke my rear body mounts, again. I'm sure i gotta get an aluminum one, but now im wondering, will the stock rear shock tower break where the body mounts slide in just as often as the plastic mounts brake themselves?
There are three solutions to breaking body posts.

1- Lower the body. This reduces the amount of leverage put upon the posts when you roll it hard.

2- Don't land upside down. I think this one is pretty self explanitory.

3- Buy RPM's shock towers because they're a lot stronger than stock and they come with meaty body mounts.

You don't want aluminum body posts. They'll just bend and stay bent, where plastic will flex and come back most of the time.

[lds12]

thanks metalry, three great points...

[lds12]

metalry, i have some questions about the rpm towers. 1. if you brake the post on them, do u have to buy another tower/mount set. 2. are the included screws hex head? finally, it looks like it only has one upper shock mounting position, has this caused u any troubles?

[metalry101]

metalry, i have some questions about the rpm towers. 1. if you brake the post on them, do u have to buy another tower/mount set. 2. are the included screws hex head? finally, it looks like it only has one upper shock mounting position, has this caused u any troubles?

I believe they sell the posts seperately. I know they sell SUV posts seperately...I would assume they sell the stock ones seperately as well. If not...well...honestly, I don't think you can break them, and if you do, RPM will replace them for free. All RPM parts carry a lifetime warranty against breakage, and honestly, they don't replace parts very often, at all. I've got RPM arms on my MGT, and LST. I'll probably end up with them on my E-Maxx some day just because the Pro-Line stuff I have on there now is discontinued. I've never broken anything RPM. A buddy of mine with an O.S. .30 powered LST has only broken one arm on his truck..and that was when he racked his mailbox at WOT in second gear, in about 30* weather. RPM stuff is as close to bulletproof as any product in the hobby. Trust me, you will never be dissappointed with an RPM product.

As for the hex hardware...I would assume so. Every RPM product that I've ever bought that has come with hardware has come with hex stuff. One word of caution though. If you run aluminum bulkheads you won't want to use RPM's hardware. Traxxas, being smart, used metric (3mm to be exact) hardware on the bolts that hold the shock tower to the bulkheads. RPM, apparently thinking that using standard hardware is a way of supporting America, uses SAE sizes, in most cases, 4-40. 4-40 and 3mm are very close, and if you're threading them into plastic, you won't have any problems, but most aluminum bulkheads will be threaded for 3mm, so you don't want to use RPM's 4-40 screws in them.

As for the one shock mount thing...I can't see why that would cause problems. Most people don't use the adjustability anyways...so RPM probably just figured why include it. That and they released the towers as replacements for the original, Pro .15 Maxx, which only had one shock mounting position. Traxxas towers didn't have 3 positions until the 2.5 WideMaxx suspension came out.

[lds12]

what size phillips works best with the stock screws?

[scoob]

I want a new servo. Something metal gear that will turn the wheels standing still. Does the 645MG have the power? It is rated at 106 oz-in and I believe the stocker is 80 oz-in.

[tadium54]

servo wise, the more torque for the maxx, the better. id get a 645 on a budget maybe, but see if you can get like a 945 or even one of the digitals they have

[rc addict]

ive never really had problems with the stock steering servo...although i think now its appropriate to upgrade since im running the hv maxx on 14 cells. the servo saver is what really sucks, it cant return very well and itll make the maxx curve..im contemplating on buying a supermaxx steering kit

[tadium54]

addict- before you go that route, try the kimbrough 124 saver with a nice strong servo. you should see a big improvement

[tadium54]

im also a bit bored so heres some pics of my truck lol

[tadium54]

another

[tadium54]

underneath

[tadium54]

and the final one for now. another underneath one. if the rear wheels look really off, its because they have extreme and very diffrent toe settings at the moment. ill fix em when im back home next. they caused some very stange drinv last time lol. if anyone has comments or feedback, let me know. im always wanting to hear what other people think of my truck

[scoob]

Dbl post, sorry.

[scoob]

I have a few question. How long will the Titans usually last. How many runs can you get before they start to lose power. I'm used to brushed motors not lasting very long with out brushes and comm cuts. Closed endbell motors usually hold up pretty well though don't they?

Are there any cheaper alternative motors. I was thinking with all the airplane/boat or even power tool motors there's bound to be something less expensive and/or with better power than the Titans. I'm just not ready to go brushless yet but will eventually. I have several other brushless setups. I also no that the after market motors such as the Trinity maxx motors are not very well liked.

[kurrz]

Scoob someone posted a link for motors from Tower and said they were better than the Titan's and they were only 10 or so bucks a piece. I'll look for it.

[kurrz]

I can't find the link but, I think they were Multiplex Permax 600's. Anyone else remember this or think it's a good choice?

[tadium54]

the titans are great for me, and i have 2 full sets of spares if i need them. that being said, people have told me that there are stronger motors, like drill motors. check out dewalt ones on ebay. you have to find a way to get the pinnion off, but you can apparently double the runtime with them while keeping the same speed and torque

[guver]

The titans are the best for the e-maxx. The permax motors should be about 10-12 cells MAX. The trinity's are great also, but they have less votage capability.

[metalry101]

The titans are the best for the e-maxx. The permax motors should be about 10-12 cells MAX. The trinity's are great also, but they have less votage capability.
These? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEXU3&P=7)

You say they'll handle 12 cells (barely?) but be faster than stock? If so, I'll try them. For that price I don't really care if they blow up. It's worth a shot to me.

[tadium54]

i don't think the trinity motors are good at all. ive heard of too many people blowing them up with little effort and no gearing changes

[kurrz]

[QUOTE]You say they'll handle 12 cells (barely?) but be faster than stock? If so, I'll try them. For that price I don't really care if they blow up. It's worth a shot to me.
Yeah metalry there was somebody on the forum praising these motors and saying they were way better than the titan's, but I can't find the post to confirm it.

[metalry101]

Yeah metalry there was somebody on the forum praising these motors and saying they were way better than the titan's, but I can't find the post to confirm it.
Hmm...maybe I'll try them when I get some money...or maybe I'll just get some batteries that work. I've been rallying my E-Maxx again lately after basically parking it for about a year. It's pretty cool...but it's a wee bit slow compared to my other rigs (Savage, LST, MGT, TNX), and my friend's rigs. It's slow compared to a stock E-Maxx right now even because my batteries aren't really giving me much. Hopefully they'll come around. They've made a lot of progress...at least the truck can move under it's own power now, but it needs more.

[tadium54]

they might need to be cycled. give that a shot. always seems to revive my old packs

[metalry101]

they might need to be cycled. give that a shot. always seems to revive my old packs
They've been cycled...many times. They've made progress...but they've got a loooong ways to go.

[lds12]

e-maxx down...took off front skid to see damage: destroyed bellcranks and draglink. I'm looking at the exploded view and it seems like the steering system will be in my hands if i next remove the two screws under the receiver. Is this so? cuz as soon as daylight hits i hit the lhs

[metalry101]

e-maxx down...took off front skid to see damage: destroyed bellcranks and draglink. I'm looking at the exploded view and it seems like the steering system will be in my hands if i next remove the two screws under the receiver. Is this so? cuz as soon as daylight hits i hit the lhs
Yes, there are only 4 screws that hold the bellcranks in. The two from the top, and the two through the skid. If you've already gotten the ones through the skidplate off and removed the turnbuckles, the upper two screws are all that's left.

[scoob]

Thanks guy,

Those Permax motors are worth a try and for 8.50 a piece, they don't have to last very long to still be worthwhile.


Metalry- If you try them be sure to let us know the result. :)

[lds12]

well i just got the bellcranks and draglink on and the steering is seriously bound up. It also toes one wheel in some apparent reason. I think the toe is caused by the hollow bearings on the steering rods threaded into the draglink crooked, but i cant explain why the throw is so stiff and slow

[lds12]

found problems...first, the pivot balls were bound up. Second, the holes on the draglink for the crank arm and the steering rod are so close that it prevents further movement. Has anyone else has this problem? Im sure i have to file down the crank arms and rod ends to allow a looser fit, but in the end i think the holes are just spaced too close together...

[lds12]

ive removed a bit of material from the bellcranks and now the screws securing the steering rods to the draglink can actually screw in straight but there is still, in my opinion, too much binding. I need to know if anyone has had this problem with the stock peices because i do not want to remove too much material

[Just Gundam]

There shouldn't be any problems at all with stock parts if you had understood and followed the assembly instructions. Post some pics of your setup, it will be easier for people to help.

[lds12]

well i really have no way of putting pictures up. I have gone over it a few times and it really is the cranks rubbing the ball ends of the steering rods. The proof is as i file off material from each peice the steering frees up tremendously. With the wheels on the car has full steering, but it only makes me wonder. The holes must be close together to limit steering. The truck flips easy enough as it is, and with more steering, itd be a nightmare

[tadium54]

yea, ive never had the steering bind on me at all. check the tie rods, bellcranks, bushings and servo links

[lds12]

I've checked all the above, and it really is the draglink. just try this. Take off one of your steering rod ball ends from the link and then move the link from left to right, u can see how the crank arm almost completely covers the hole where the ball should thread in. If no one else has had problems with it then i have to assume i got some sort of defective part. Perhaps the precision isnt as fine as it could be on traxxas's molds.

[Just Gundam]

well i really have no way of putting pictures up. I have gone over it a few times and it really is the cranks rubbing the ball ends of the steering rods. The proof is as i file off material from each peice the steering frees up tremendously. With the wheels on the car has full steering, but it only makes me wonder. The holes must be close together to limit steering. The truck flips easy enough as it is, and with more steering, itd be a nightmare

The steering tie-rods must be mounted on top of the draglink, and the bellcranks below the draglink.

[lds12]

wow i cant believe i missed that. no one at the shop spotted it either so thats weird. Thanks for the help but no need to act all smart

[Rtsbasic]

lds12, he was probably just using the bold to signal that they're the key bits you need to read, when just skim-reading like many people do on a forum you can easily miss vital information.

[lds12]

your right, sorry guys

[lds12]

anyone run rpm stablemaxx style rims with the traxxas widemaxx suspension? if so hows is it? does the offset rim have negative effects on steering and durability?

[metalry101]

anyone run rpm stablemaxx style rims with the traxxas widemaxx suspension? if so hows is it? does the offset rim have negative effects on steering and durability?
I've done it before...wouldn't really suggest it. If you ran big tires (like 40 Series or some other 6.5"+ tire, then it works pretty well, but stock size tires just look really, really goofy sticking out that far. It's really hard on the hub bearings (they'll probably hold up alright...but for maximum durability, go with the RPM knuckles, as they incorporate a much larger bearing. Other than that...well...I had my street tires on wheels that wide and...wow..it was impossible to roll, but I dunno, now that I look back on it, I'd rather have the crisper response but roll happy nature of the stock suspension than the impossible to roll but somewhat sluggish response of the super-wide setup. That's a preference thing though...it is hard to complain about being able to rail through a corner at WOT and have your truck stay on all four.

[lds12]

my maxx got whooped today...broke the front right and left bulks and suspension arms. I also have to replace the shock shafts and caps, the metal x plate on the skid plate, the front bulkhead brace, the suspension screw pins, and just about every screw that was came out bent, especially the front bumper mount screws. any suggestions? i already have rpm replacement arms and i might look into aluminum shock caps

[Maxx42]

Wow. What did you do? That must have been a hard crash for all that to happen at once.

[lds12]

i use my backyard as a racetrack...pretty handy cept for the trees. It was pretty one sided since i only clipped it. It pretty much destroyed the left side, im just including previous damage to the right that now can get the fixin

[Maxx42]

I'm not sure if they're available yet, but if you want, you can use the newer bulkheads that are on the 3.3 tmaxx. I emailed traxxas to get some info on them and they replied saying that they are 100% compatible with all previous maxxes. The newer bulks are supposed to use a different plastic and they are supposed to be stronger. I don't know how much better they are as I have no experience with them. I figured that I'd throw out that option to you if you are interested.

[tadium54]

yea, the 3.3 bulks look to be a little better designed. looks to still have crapy access to the lower front shock tower mount. but lets hope theres a conversion kit in the next while to get the 2.5 gen maxxes to the 3.3 level

[I Trust Tyler]

I took my maxx to some local bmx trails, and it should of been toast, the jump i was blasting was about 6 feet tall and 15-20 feet long at close to full speed with a 9920-7xl-16 cell combo pushing it to its inevitable impending doom, it hacked nose first about ten times, i rolled it into trees off the landing, and hit the landing on the top side of the truck from about 15 feet off the ground, and somehow didnt damage a thing. this truck can take some brutal punishment, i dont have a rollcage and i have only a couple alum. parts. next time i guess ill have to try backflips, frontflips and go even bigger.

[rc addict]

do you have the stock shocktowers installed? if you do, and those didnt break, then there must be an angel sittin atop your maxx or something...

[rc addict]

all i did was front flip once on a 1 ft gradual bump in my yard at WOT with an HV-Maxx 14 cell set up and the thing bounced on the rear tower which immediately snapped. The wind was blowing hard and i had my body velcroed down instead, and the body just flew away until i caught it down the street later

[I Trust Tyler]

i have the rpm's, and yeah my body flies off as well, because the holes are cracked all around and the pins slip through

[Maxx42]

I took my maxx to some local bmx trails, and it should of been toast, the jump i was blasting was about 6 feet tall and 15-20 feet long at close to full speed with a 9920-7xl-16 cell combo pushing it to its inevitable impending doom, it hacked nose first about ten times, i rolled it into trees off the landing, and hit the landing on the top side of the truck from about 15 feet off the ground, and somehow didnt damage a thing. this truck can take some brutal punishment, i dont have a rollcage and i have only a couple alum. parts. next time i guess ill have to try backflips, frontflips and go even bigger.


I have the same motor in my maxx. On 16 cells it's a beast. What gearing do you use? I'm just curious because I think that I can gear taller than my current 22/66 setup (if I mash the throttle it will instantly fly onto it's back and skid for about 10 feet while in second gear). Also I found that using the crowd pleazer body with the body posts all the way down really saves me from breaking the stock shock towers.

[I Trust Tyler]

i use a 16/66 gearing which is appearently on the short side, if you can run a 22/66 then maybe i should move up a few teeth myself. After all i do reach top speed really fast.

[I Trust Tyler]

woah.... crazy long islanders on this piece.

[Maxx42]

woah.... crazy long islanders on this piece.
Have you ever raced at South Shore Hobbies? I belong to an RC group in Queens called QURC, and we go race out there from time to time in the summer. They usually don't have a crowd of people out there unless our group comes by.

[I Trust Tyler]

nah i dont race there, but i've been there for parts on occasion, i wanna race but i dont want to bother with brushed motors, and as far as i know they dont have a brushless class for anything.

[Maxx42]

I mean race on the outdoor track in the summer. It's probably the only place on long island that has racing for monster trucks in the summer. Usually I'm the only electric guy out there.

[I Trust Tyler]

i've seen that track too, but i never tryed to get into racing. you use your bl maxx up against nitro trucks....how do you do against them?

[Maxx42]

When I was racing against them (no computer just us racing) I was using a 9L and was competative but slower than the LST's and a TNX pro. At the end of the summer last year I upgraded to the 7XL and didn't get a chance to use it on the track, but I was about the same speed as a dialed in nmt with a racing .18 in it (I still had much better acceleration though). I was also using very cheap batteries too. This year I'm going lipo with my maxx but only 5s2p. The only problem with that track is the owner gets lazy sometimes and doesn't work on the track after it gets ripped up a bit from racing.

[patrick scot]

hey mike what's up. go to extremehobbyonline.com/ and look at the off-road track. i saw it in person and i love it. it's double the size of ssh hobby. i paid the 200 dollars for the year and became a member. i can go whenever i want for no additional money and raceday is sunday with a small fee for members and 20-25 dollars for non-members. i sold my tnx and pro4. still have my lst and i'm probably buying the revo 3.3 when it comes out. hope to see you guys soon. pat

[I Trust Tyler]

Ohhh WOAH those dudes have a track now... awesome.

[Maxx42]

hey mike what's up. go to extremehobbyonline.com/ and look at the off-road track. i saw it in person and i love it. it's double the size of ssh hobby. i paid the 200 dollars for the year and became a member. i can go whenever i want for no additional money and raceday is sunday with a small fee for members and 20-25 dollars for non-members. i sold my tnx and pro4. still have my lst and i'm probably buying the revo 3.3 when it comes out. hope to see you guys soon. pat

Wow I never thought I would see you leave a post on an emaxx forum, but it's great to hear from you, Pat. I just checked out that site and I think that I'll have to check that place out soon. I will be a ghost over at SSH if this place is any good (it's also a shorter ride for me and everyone else from Queens). Also $200 for the whole season is a good deal compared to SSH or even Willis for indoor stuff. Anyway I had a feeling that as soon as the new Revo was announced you'd be on board to get it. With that bigger motor and longer wheelbase, it will be faster and will handle better than the previous model.

[nitro_newbie]

i got like some 550+ sized motors from a power wheels and they are like brand new what esc would i need to use them in my smaxx to electric power conversion that is in the mix. they arent that much of a speed demon but they have tons and i mean tons of torque!!! so any esc that can handle these motors would be cool and a 540 esc can handle a 550-700 size motor because i want some torque and a stock speed is fine thanx with the help
nitro_newbie:cool:

[Just Gundam]

For twin 550's, traxxas' evx or novak's superduty xr will do the job.

[nitro_newbie]

thanx now i need to figure a way to mount the motors using the stock tranny in the smaxx because i think it would be more durable than the stock emaxx tranny because it has to handle a nitro power plant so i wouldnt need to upgrade the tranny right and thanx
nitro_newbie:cool:
also which esc is better the evx or the superduty xr

[metalry101]

thanx now i need to figure a way to mount the motors using the stock tranny in the smaxx because i think it would be more durable than the stock emaxx tranny because it has to handle a nitro power plant so i wouldnt need to upgrade the tranny right and thanx
nitro_newbie:cool:
also which esc is better the evx or the superduty xr
First of all...the E-Maxx tranny is every bit as strong, if not stronger, than the T-Maxx (S-Maxx...they're all the same) tranny.

Secondly, buy an E-Maxx. If you build an E-Maxx tranny (you'll want to), and buy an EVX or Super Duty XR, you'll be 50, maybe 100 bucks less than an E-Maxx, and you'll have two complete, running trucks instead of one frankensteined trucks that doesn't really work.

[Ball Racing]

Nitro power plants, don't always have the instant torque of electric.
Thats hard on the trans too...

[Just Gundam]

also which esc is better the evx or the superduty xr

Superduty xr is better than the evx. Compare their specs for more details.

[nitro_newbie]

well the reason i wanted to convert it was i wanted to go electric because i dont want to oder my fuel from the internet because the shop i use to get my fuel from is closing down and it is the closest plae were i could get that fuel and they dont sell that fuel any were close to home so i wanted to go electric but i wasnt sure if would be able to get 340 bux for my smaxx and i dont want to sell it for less than 300 and i would have thought it would have been cheaper but it would have been like 100 dollars off so maybe buying the emaxx would be a good idea but how much would be a reasonable price to sell it for i think 300 is good dont you guys think?man i should have gotten the emaxx it was on sale for 289 with 2 2400mah nimh packs what an idiot was i :mad: :mad: but oh well maybe ill get a used emaxx :rolleyes: :p thanx for the advice
well thanx
nitro_newbie:cool:

[I Trust Tyler]

yeah look around for used e-maxx's, i bought mine used with a bombproof chassis, cvd's, servo protectors, rpm a-arm's, hitec 645mg servo, alum. bulks and 5 battery packs for only 300 shipped, i got a killer deal.

[tadium54]

lol, wow, that is a killer deal lol

[metalry101]

Damn...that is a killer deal.

[Badmaxx-24]

Hello, I just ordered me a new E-maxx and im wondering what u guys recommend for a good drop in High torque servo for the E-maxx Thanks for your time.

[Ball Racing]

JR 650
Hi-Tec 645
both are under $50.00 and have 130-140 oz in. of torque..

[tadium54]

check out bluebird servos too. metalry and i both run them, and theyve been awesome so far

[Badmaxx-24]

thanks guys for your suggestions i'll check those out.

[rc addict]

Wow I never thought I would see you leave a post on an emaxx forum, but it's great to hear from you, Pat. I just checked out that site and I think that I'll have to check that place out soon. I will be a ghost over at SSH if this place is any good (it's also a shorter ride for me and everyone else from Queens). Also $200 for the whole season is a good deal compared to SSH or even Willis for indoor stuff. Anyway I had a feeling that as soon as the new Revo was announced you'd be on board to get it. With that bigger motor and longer wheelbase, it will be faster and will handle better than the previous model.

maxx you live on long island? i live here in suffolk county and ive been to willis hobbies in mineola several times, its pretty cool, but lame that they got rid of the gas track they had...is the hobby shop your talking about closer to me or not

[Maxx42]

maxx you live on long island? i live here in suffolk county and ive been to willis hobbies in mineola several times, its pretty cool, but lame that they got rid of the gas track they had...is the hobby shop your talking about closer to me or not

I'm actually right on the Nassau/Queens border. That track in the post above is off of the SM Pkwy in Kings Park. From me it's about a 40 min drive (Willis is about 8 min but I like the outdoors and offroad much better). I haven't contacted that track yet to get more info on it. I want to make sure that they provide electricty trackside so I can race with all the nitros out there. Normally if I were to go to SSH, I would be the only elec truck there.

[lds12]

after a week and a half of waiting to get my maxx back together i finally drive it today. Somehow i melted the battery connectors...looks like its time to instal some deans

[T/Losi]

Hi,
Im looking at getting a E-maxx and put the Novak HV-Maxx system in. I have a JR XS3 Radio, can I use that radio and still use the 2-speed function?
What are common parts to break on the e-maxx?
How much run time would I get with the Novak HV-Maxx system?
How do these trucks go in speed compared to the buggy and stadium trucks?

Cheers

[rc addict]

Hi,
Im looking at getting a E-maxx and put the Novak HV-Maxx system in. I have a JR XS3 Radio, can I use that radio and still use the 2-speed function?
What are common parts to break on the e-maxx?
How much run time would I get with the Novak HV-Maxx system?
How do these trucks go in speed compared to the buggy and stadium trucks?

Cheers

Ok Losi, first lemme start out by saying something about the HV-MAXX system : ITS ****IN AWESOME. If your jr xs3 radio has an auxilary button (like a 3rd channel button or lever) then yes the 2 speed will work. Im guessing it does have that button because that radio comes with the lst and that truck can shift into high and low. Next, parts that most break are the body posts, bulkheads (if you do big air or highspeed crashes), hingepins, turnbuckles and a-arms. Thats basically it. How much run time you get from the HV-MAXX all depends on 2 things: The type and cell count of batteries that you are running, and the amp rate you charged them at. I run matched 7 cells charged at 4 amps and my truck goes for what seems like 20 minutes to even 30 minutes. It really is a very efficient motor and it has SO much torque that its incredible. I can drive 4 feet up my tree from stand still with the maxx if i get it right. Speedwise, with the MAXX system, it will be much much faster on the straight aways, and depending on your tire and suspension set up, it should be quicker than most stadium trucks tho i think buggies could keep up pretty easily. Regardless the hv maxx system is the most fun you can put into that truck....it is a blast. Be sure to upgrade your transmission...i leanred the hard way and my input shaft literally drilled a hole through my trasnmission case exposing all the gears to dirt.

[T/Losi]

What parts do I have to get for the transmission upgrade?

Cheers

[T/Losi]

What are way's that people charge their batteries? Do you just use 2 chargers?
I read on Novak's website that the HV-Maxx can Completing the High-Voltage Brushless Motor System is the HV-Maxx ESC, which can accommodate 6-14 cells (7.2-16.8 volts) and can be wired for dual or single battery packs. How much run time would u get out of one 3300Ni-MH battery?
Can the REVO wheels fit on the E-Maxx?

Cheers

[tadium54]

2? i have 8 or so lol. your run time would probably be cut in half with just one pack, as the e-maxx works best with 2 packs. revo wheels should work yes

[T/Losi]

Would the E-maxx run fine with the brushless motor? I heard that you hae to change the driveshafts to cvd's

Cheers

[Ball Racing]

If you never pulled the trigger back you could get by.
I have spit out the rear drives with stock motors and two 7cell 3,800 packs in less than a week of being new..
Brushless has way more power than that............

[rc addict]

its so powerful, that i can see premature wear on my METAL aluminum hex hubs from the drive pins slamming back and forth from the torque in reverse and forward, and these parts are less than 3 weeks old.

[rc addict]

my suggestions are that if the destructive torque power can reach all the way out to the wheels, you upgrade the four corners to cvds. In my opinion, i think the diffs hold up just fine since they are steel. Also, my personal belief is that the center cvds do not need upgrading because i think they expand to the pressure applied to them. I upgraded the center transmission gears, a arm cvds , and everything else but the center cvds, and they have held up with absolutely no wear. This is coming from someone who bashes his truck hard evey opportunity he gets, so i drive this thing roughly...

[Rtsbasic]

I fit brushless to mine, I've only done a few runs but haven't had anything tranny related break or bend, yet. Except for my topshaft, thats a bit bent. I've changed the center cvd's out for some universals, but still using sliders on all 4 corners. When these go i might see if i can get revo ones on there, supposed to have more of an overlap so less likely to break?

[tadium54]

anyone here other than metalry and I run a torpedo chassis? if so, what do have body wise? I need a new body that has a better fit than my peterbilt one right now

[lds12]

anyone running dual Orion li-po's yet? i bet its nasty

[I Trust Tyler]

anyone here other than metalry and I run a torpedo chassis? if so, what do have body wise? I need a new body that has a better fit than my peterbilt one right now

i run a torpedo, the body i use right now is a H2, but i dont like that body for a second. Proline has a few Ext. bodies, check them out.

[Badmaxx-24]

Hey Guys Im kinda new to electric. Been into nitro for along time Just kinda got fed up with It. So i just got me a new E-maxx I was looking at the Trinity Monster moxx pro Motors. I noticed they have the Mild maxx and the Wild maxx also But I figured the Pro to be the best. Will the decrease In run time be worth the extra performance? Im running DTX 3800 Battery packs buy the way. Also Will the Stock EVX handle these motors?? thanks for your time guys.

[I Trust Tyler]

its not cost effective to get a brushed motor upgrade IMO.

[tadium54]

Tyler is right i think- trinity and reedy motors for the maxx are nothing more than paperweights i think.

tyler- proline has the extended bodies i know. the f-350 looks like the only option for me right now. ill check the rest of them out when im back home with my rig lol

[Badmaxx-24]

Hey Guys I have a stupid question for u, but i have no idea being as ive never delt with shocks before. I'm getting ready to order me some aluminum shocks from tower and i need to know if anyone knows.. Is a 2 .oz bottle of shock oil enough to fill 8 e-maxx shocks? or should i get 2 bottles? I would hate to get it and only be able to fill half of them and then have to wait on more lol thanks guys.

[tadium54]

if the conversion i did is right, thats about 60 ml. taking the ae maxx shocks as an example, the diffrence between the shock closed and fully extended is about 3.5 cm. using the assumption that the shock body is basically a cylinder, and the radius is about .6 cm, use the formula V=(pi)(l)(r)^2
v=pi(3.5)(.6)^2
=3.9(approx)
this is how much is needed per shock. 60/3.9 will give you how many shocks you can do per bottle, and the answer is 15. now leading me to belive that the shocks could be a little diffrent, and my method of guessing the inner radius could be well off, as my truck isnt infront of me at the moment. im pretty sure 1 bottle could work, but my math might be off so feel free to check it

[Badmaxx-24]

thanks for your help. Ill post some pics of it when i get it done. I've got some Black beadlock rims with J hawg tires comming for it to, with a candy purple F-350 body should look good im hopeing...

[tadium54]

not a problem, were all here to help eachother

[lds12]

hey guys ive got a question. What can i do to keep my maxx from flipping during turns. On power its fine and grips all the way through, but offpower it flips even at very low speeds. I run the shocks on the inner most lower setting for highest clearance because my backyard is pretty rough. How much lower do the middle and furthest settings(on rpm arms) make the truck and how do they effect rolling and steering? Ive lowerd the body as far as i can and its busted up so im going to order something low like a crowd pleazer, which proline says reduces rolls. would 40 series tires help too?

[guver]

Hmm, the farther out shock locations will lower it a bit and help with the non-rolling. I would guess at least a half inch. The body mounts can be drilled and lowered even further than stock, and batteries mounted underneath chassis will help bunches if th