E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[tadium54]

you could sell most of your packs that you use right now to offset the cost a bit, along with any chargers, but id like to hear about lipos too in the maxx

[lds12]

at 14.8 volts itd probably be a hair faster than stock with matched packs but i bet its be a blast with more nitro-like runtimes. but ur right man $$$ + lipo chargers = more $$$$

[tadium54]

im guessing 16.8v tho would be faster than the 14.8 lipo setup, but the run times would be alot higher with the lipos, allowing you to sell some of your old packs to help offset the cost

[lds12]

just broke the rear shock tower on my truck...going to replace it with the rpm one. I cant wait til i get all these little weaknesses beefed up so i can just drive and drive...also bent a toe rod in the rear, i know titanium is supposed to resist bending more, but is it noticeable or will one bad crash bend it good just like what just happened to me. My maxx has taken some hard hits and rolls and splats and the steel ones have been just fine until now...

[tadium54]

the rpm towers are awesome. my set is great so far. go for lunsford turnbuckles- if they bend or break i think lunsford will replace them

[lds12]

ive got that rpm tower on in the rear now. im really impressed with it just like the arms, even tho i had to settle for the shoot me blue. i was wondering about batteries...it says that packs are matched at 5 amps, but does that mean i should always charge my packs at that rate? right now i have some trinity 3000 cells i soldered into 4 packs. I charge them at 4 amps constantly, sometimes 3 or 4 times a day. am i killing my batteries? p.s. they come off the chargers and out of the maxx pretty hot, so hot that its uncomfortable to hold.

[tadium54]

4 amps is good. put a fan near them to circulate the air, replace tamiya plugs with deans or sermos, lower the delta peak if you can on your chargers. they should come off wam, not too hot.

[lds12]

is there a noticeable increase in performance when switching to dean's connectors?

[tadium54]

less resistance, and if you do a decent soldering job, then they should run a little cooler because the resistance from the tamiya plugs is gone

[lds12]

so if the packs should only come off the charger warm, does that mean I can take the batteries off the charger before it says they are peaked if they are already pretty hot? will they have already reached a peak?

[tadium54]

again,let them peak, but give them ventilation and change the delta peak on it. also make sure theyre fully discharged and cool before charging

[lds12]

alright the fan has definately helped, thanks for the tip. Ive got a new one now. I just woke up to bash the maxx before work and after the first set of packs i noticed a new high pitched squeak coming from the rear wheels/axle/diff(hard to determine, but id say diff). Its really short, less than a second, and only when the wheels go forward. The maxx drowns it out at high speed but once the packs are dying i can hear it from about 15 ft. what could it be? plus i yesterday i had an incident with a well hidden puddle and i drive it in the morning when some of the yard is dewy. the electronics stay dry but am i rusting the diff gears?

[lds12]

ran a few more packs through it and it runs great...strong as ever. I dont even hear it very much even at low speeds but its there. Im still leaning towards the diff...

[tadium54]

check for anything broken in the rear, make sure the diff is properly greased and no water is in it. thats all i can think of for now

[scoob]

You guys talking about li-pos, I'd look at the Maxamps 2s2p 6000mah li-pos . www.maxamps.com , they are right there on the front page and only $80 each. It would lighten the truck up quite a bit, give more punch and incredible runtime. I'm considering buying two myself.
I just thought it was a good deal and they seem perfect for an emaxx.

[kurrz]

Do any of you use a stick pack discharger?

[lds12]

how much turning does the maxx lose when a rear diff is added...if any?

[lds12]

*spool

[Just Gundam]

Do any of you use a stick pack discharger?

I just run the packs till my truck goes slowly...

[Just Gundam]

how much turning does the maxx lose when a rear diff is added...if any?

Steering will be poorer with a rear spool. I know that when I lost my rear diff, steering is incredible.

[tadium54]

for my 6 cell packs i used to. as long as you have a cutoff device, youll be fine. but i also think just running them till they die is a good method too

[metalry101]

alright the fan has definately helped, thanks for the tip. Ive got a new one now. I just woke up to bash the maxx before work and after the first set of packs i noticed a new high pitched squeak coming from the rear wheels/axle/diff(hard to determine, but id say diff). Its really short, less than a second, and only when the wheels go forward. The maxx drowns it out at high speed but once the packs are dying i can hear it from about 15 ft. what could it be? plus i yesterday i had an incident with a well hidden puddle and i drive it in the morning when some of the yard is dewy. the electronics stay dry but am i rusting the diff gears?
A high pitched squeak when water has been involved? My money says a bearing is toast. That doesn't really sound like a diff...it would most likely grind if it were shot. I suppose it could make some noise if it were running dry...but it shouldn't be. I'm going to stick with my bearing theory. You've probably just got a bearing that's running dry. They tend to make all sorts of noise when they're dragging, either from being dry internally or just flat out seized.

[lds12]

metalry you were on the money. It was a rear hub bearing making the squeaky squeak

[lds12]

twice now my maxx has smoked one of the batteries and not the other. On the first occasion the pack got very hot and the tamiya connector melted, causing the truck to stop. The second time, the connectors stayed fine, but one pack got so hot that it melted the red shrink wrap it has around it and exposed the cardboard tube on the inside. That pack is now fried and isnt even worth running and the other ive yet to fix the connector on, even tho it takes 5 minutes(getting a BS in ME is quite time consuming). why does one pack smoke up when i run my maxx? occasionly?

[Just Gundam]

Cardboard wrapped batteries are crap. Generally, they charge hotter, run even hotter and die faster. GP packs are the way to go.

[tadium54]

metalry is a sharp guy with this stuff- can't get much past him lol. as to why your battery smokes, id guess its either wired bad from the factory, or the cells just cant take the high drain associated with the maxx

[lds12]

yo guys ive been looking to get some new cells for awhile...what im looking at right now is the fusion batteries 7 cell hump packs. They're gp3300's, assembled in a hump with the heat sink bars, 121$/14 cells, they got spec lables on them so im assuming they're matched, i gotta call em i guess to find that out, and it comes with the gorilla maxx straps...do you guys think this is a good deal? and plus, im wondering whether or not to get a hump pack, the maxx can get tossed pretty easily, and i dont really want a higher COG. can you guys tell me what its like?

[Maxx42]

yo guys ive been looking to get some new cells for awhile...what im looking at right now is the fusion batteries 7 cell hump packs. They're gp3300's, assembled in a hump with the heat sink bars, 121$/14 cells, they got spec lables on them so im assuming they're matched, i gotta call em i guess to find that out, and it comes with the gorilla maxx straps...do you guys think this is a good deal? and plus, im wondering whether or not to get a hump pack, the maxx can get tossed pretty easily, and i dont really want a higher COG. can you guys tell me what its like?

Maxxamps has a pair of 7 cell packs for the emaxx for about $110 using GP3700 cells. http://www.maxamps.com/index.html?lmd=38645.687025

[tadium54]

check out ebay too- theres always good battery deals on there

[lds12]

thanks maxx42, thats an awesome deal...

[Maxx42]

thanks maxx42, thats an awesome deal...

No prob. I was looking into getting their 8000mah lipo packs for my emaxx but I wanted to find some more feedback on the quality of them before I took the plunge. I did get some IB 3800 packs from them (6 cell) for my TC and they are great

[brushless losi]

does ne one run this with jumbo kong tires how are speeds and parts holding up

[tadium54]

more rotating mass=less speed. youd probably break universals too because of the excess weight

[rc addict]

i really need some help here, i bought a duratrax intellipeak ice charger to charge my emaxx's batteries, and i bought a pyramid gold series power supply. When i plug the charger into the power supply and turn the supply on, the power supply light goes on, and it hums, but the charger doesnt even turn on. The power box's output is 13.8 volts and the current is 20 amps. What could possibly be wrong? Does the voltage have to be a non decimal number like, 12V,14V, 15V etc... and not 12.8V,13.2V...? Its really puzzling and i need help

[guver]

Test the charger on a car battery or check the output/input with a voltmeter. Any voltage between 11-15 is ok for the ice

[scoob]

No prob. I was looking into getting their 8000mah lipo packs for my emaxx but I wanted to find some more feedback on the quality of them before I took the plunge. I did get some IB 3800 packs from them (6 cell) for my TC and they are great

I run the TP8000 in a stadium truck.
The 8 amp charge capabilty gets you up and running in no time. I usually charge mine to 90%, which is the point at which the pack hits 8.4v and the amp rate starts to fall. If you run your pack all the way down it takes about 45 minutes to get to this point and another 45 to add the final 10% charge. Of course, it takes nearly 45 minutes to run it all the way down with some setups. :)

I have no experience with the maxamps 8000.

[Maxx42]

I run the TP8000 in a stadium truck.
The 8 amp charge capabilty gets you up and running in no time. I usually charge mine to 90%, which is the point at which the pack hits 8.4v and the amp rate starts to fall. If you run your pack all the way down it takes about 45 minutes to get to this point and another 45 to add the final 10% charge. Of course, it takes nearly 45 minutes to run it all the way down with some setups. :)

I have no experience with the maxamps 8000.

Thanks for the info, Scoob. I remember reading in another thread a while back that you used those cells (along with some other guys). The reason why I was looking into the maxxamps cells was because i was going to use the hyperion balancer with them and was going to use the hyperion taps on those cells. I'm also going to get some hyperion cells for my rc18 and figured that it would be easier to just use the same balancer for all of the battery packs without having to reconfigure taps or buy a tap converter. I did some research on other forums to get some info on them, but I haven't found too much feedback from guys that use them.

[lds12]

what are the benefits of running an aftermarket slipper clutch, such as robinson's. I'm not sure I need it now but I know im getting an hv-maxx whenever i can spend the dough on it. Is it just for drivetrain protection or can u tune it for performance?

[rc addict]

Test the charger on a car battery or check the output/input with a voltmeter. Any voltage between 11-15 is ok for the ice

when i hook a battery pack up to the charger, when its not hooked up to the power supply, it still doesnt light up, but the charger is new in the box...idk where to get a voltmeter either, but ill have to find out...

[kurrz]

when i hook a battery pack up to the charger, when its not hooked up to the power supply, it still doesnt light up, but the charger is new in the box...idk where to get a voltmeter either, but ill have to find out...
I think he means a car battery as in full scale. Just don't start the car if it's in the vehicle.

[scoob]

Thanks for the info, Scoob. I remember reading in another thread a while back that you used those cells (along with some other guys). The reason why I was looking into the maxxamps cells was because i was going to use the hyperion balancer with them and was going to use the hyperion taps on those cells. I'm also going to get some hyperion cells for my rc18 and figured that it would be easier to just use the same balancer for all of the battery packs without having to reconfigure taps or buy a tap converter. I did some research on other forums to get some info on them, but I haven't found too much feedback from guys that use them.

I have a 4000 mah 2s maxamps pack but I haven't used it yet so I'm not sure of the quality yet. It was given to me, nice gift huh. :)

The maxamp packs prices have come way down recently. The 8000 is down fro $170 to $130 and the 12000 mah monstrosity is now $190. It was $250 last time I checked! They also have a heck of a deal on the 6000 mah, at $80 a piece, although they are 10c cells and the others are 12c. I was thinking of a couple of those 6000's for my E-Maxx eventually. I'm running GP3300s from radio shack right now. Once those kick the bucket I'll probably get a pair of 6000s.

At those prices they are definately worth a try. :)

[Maxx42]

I have a 4000 mah 2s maxamps pack but I haven't used it yet so I'm not sure of the quality yet. It was given to me, nice gift huh. :)

The maxamp packs prices have come way down recently. The 8000 is down fro $170 to $130 and the 12000 mah monstrosity is now $190. It was $250 last time I checked! They also have a heck of a deal on the 6000 mah, at $80 a piece, although they are 10c cells and the others are 12c. I was thinking of a couple of those 6000's for my E-Maxx eventually. I'm running GP3300s from radio shack right now. Once those kick the bucket I'll probably get a pair of 6000s.

At those prices they are definately worth a try. :)

Wow I didn't realize they dropped that much. I'll definitely have to grab some soon. Also the 8000mah cells are actually made by Dualsky and the 6000 cells I believe are by Hecell. I have no experience with either, but any feedback that I have read pertaining to the maxamps packs has been good.

[tadium54]

i might have to check them out now. increased runtime is tempting, along with selling the rest of my packs lol

[rc addict]

i was driving my emaxx and hit the front bumper into the curb. i heard a defeaning crack and the skid plate and bulkheads broke and the front half came off, but everything else was intact. i ordered skids from rpm and the new 3.3 bulks from traxxas. they fir right?
are they better, and has anyone else put them in there 2.5 truck?

[tadium54]

the 3. bulks look to be a bit better designed, but i think aluminum is the only way to go for bulks on a maxx

[lds12]

aluminum is expensive and in most cases worthless...the plastic bulks hold up great if you just switch over to rpm arms which will eliminate practically 80% of the problems those bulks will give you. in time you'll brake the arms and have to switch over anyway. as for the 3.3 bulks, they should be the exact same design, just with a new gray plastic blend thats more resistant to breaking, so yeah, they'll prolly be the ticket

[Just Gundam]

I agree with tadium. But stay away from those that are heavily machined and cutout to reduce weight, they are not as tough as the solid ones.

[metalry101]

Plastic bulkheads are a bad idea? Please. The whole truck is held together by the bulkheads and you want them to break on an impact? If there's one thing on the truck that should be aluminum, it's the bulkheads. RPM arms, towers, bumpers, and wearplates will ensure that the bulks never get hit hard enough to bend or anything. The only bad thing I can think of about aluminum bulks is that there's a hidden cost. If you run aluminum bulkheads, you pretty much have to run titanium hingepins. If you don't, you'll smack a curb or something, break some arms, and most likely bend the hingepins. Good luck getting a bent steel hingepin out of a straight aluminum bulkhead.

Maybe some of you guys have found that plastic bulkheads hold up with RPM arms, but I'd rather have aluminum bulkheads and stock arms. The stock arms aren't bulletproof, but they're not so weak as to limit what you can do with the truck. The bulkheads are. You can't air out a stock Maxx without shattering bulkheads. Arms don't break on big air landings, they break when you hit stuff. Don't hit stuff and they stay intact. If you do hit something and break an arm, arms take about 5 minutes to replace. Bulkheads require you to disassemble the front or rear end of the truck. Thanks, but I'll take a stout chassis and weak, but easy to replace a-arms over bulletproof a-arms and brittle bulkheads any day. The best solution is to get both, but if you can only afford one, think about what holds the truck together...it's not the arms.

If you're not in the mood to spend that much money or rip the truck apart to replace the bulks, at least replace the bulkhead braces with aluminum ones. The RPM braces hold the bulks together better and resist twisting, but they still have a crucial weakness. The screw holes are still easy to strip out under load. Aluminum won't strip, which means the bulks won't move, unless they go through the screw, in which case you need to learn how to drive without hitting things so hard.

[guver]

I finally got tired of replacing rear bulkheads and is my only aluminum upgrade now.

[Psyclone75]

I use aluminum bulks front and rear with the stock arms. When there's a collision something has to give, and you don't want it to be a bulkhead.

[tadium54]

i would rather break bumper mounts or even bumpers rather than break bulkheads. that would be a quick fix atleast, and pretty cheap. you could stay with the stock skids if you wanted to even, but the e maxx needs aluminum bulkheads from the factory for sure, along with a few other changes

[lds12]

thats a shame...i ride trails also and i took my maxx off a few of the bigger lips, including blasting it off our monsterous 11ft dirt spine ending one very high speed section. from about 15ft+ to flat the maxx gives me no trouble, and its almost all stock, rpm front arms and rear tower, nada mas. ill agree head on collisions destroy the bumper mounts and the plastic is a little more brittle than it should be, but the last thing the maxx needs is more weight. I also race it and i broke my first/only by hitting a tree/corner marker, ive hit a few since then and the rpm arms hold it strong, but eventually I learned to not hit corner markers and control the maxx in the air(which by the why i was REALLY impressed to see how well it responds to inputs in the air). Who knows tho, i hate replacing them as much as everyone does even though ive only broken one, so maybe they're in the future, but then again, getting a bent hingpin out is hell. I checked the new 3.3 bulks for reference and they have more ribbing and a more durable material, im gettin them when my bulks brake again, which i know they will, but any good crash will brake anything.

[rc addict]

weight isnt exactly a problem if you get the hv-maxx system

[tadium54]

again, i think the only things it needs out of the box are aluminum bulks, titanium hinge pins and titanium skids. the only reason i got the rpm stuff was because i got a good deal on it and the unbreakable guarantee ways too tempting. the hv maxx system is nice, but some people dont have that kind of money to set aside for one

[rc addict]

is there any way to tighten the turning radius of the emaxx? my neighbor has a tight track in his backyard

[tadium54]

strong steering servo, good servo saver, make the truck a little narrower

[rc addict]

how bout narrower tires?
like the ones on the jammin x1-crt or hpi nubz

[metalry101]

how bout narrower tires?
like the ones on the jammin x1-crt or hpi nubz
Ya, that'd help, but you couldn't run the Nubz w/o 17mm adapters. Maxxes (and Savages for that matter) run 14mm hexes stock. You could get some PL Crimefighters (the tires that the Jammin truggy kit comes with) and mount them on some standard rims. Those are lighter and a little narrower than the stock tires, so they should help out the steering.

[tadium54]

just got back from school after being away for about 4 months or so. took out thr chargers and batteries, charged em up, went to the school near me and ripped it up- i love this truck. its got a whole new feel and look to it that is better than what i had on it before. hopefully this summer i can have some more fun with it too!

[GT Freak]

Ordering a NEW E-MAXX on monday, willl be my 1st e-maxx....so's i got ALOT of reading to do.. :cool:

[vic2367]

great truck...iive had mine for like 2 years now,,,

[brushless losi]

ne 1 have a e-maxx video of it on 14 cells wanna see. been searchin and have not come across 1

[GT Freak]

Seen them on the bay: Revolver 600 19t(42% more power over stock)
Those are just 600 size 19t air plane motors right?
Who has run 600 size plane mills in the Maxx?

[GT Freak]

AWSOME...this is a HUGE truck...got pics too... :p

[GT Freak]

here ya go...shock collars and pistons

[GT Freak]

paperwork...

[GT Freak]

box..

[GT Freak]

stickers....now its time to put my deans plugs on the esc...then CHARRRRRGGGEEEEE and GGOOO

[GT Freak]

...well, just noticed that theres NO CENTER SKID on my truck...is this normal??

[vic2367]

yes its normal...they dont come with any center skids....also dont forget to check ur tires,,,u might need to glue them onto the rims...

[Just Gundam]

It will be good to put on RPM center skid, protects the transmission and the chassis braces also hold better.

[GT Freak]

can someone tell me the deminsions of the center skid :confused: iv got a 1/4in thick peice of plexi i can use... :cool:

[SerpentKing101]

all you have to do is line it up with those 4 smaller holes in the chassis braces...

but you'll need a piece 2.5 inches wide and 3 inches long. the holes are about 2.3 inches apart front to back OC, and 1.75 side to side OC

[GT Freak]

AWSOME! thanks alot :cool:

[GT Freak]

I just got in from my first run with my maxx....WOW,this truck is awsome! :) need to learn throttle control :D ...lol whelies are too easy! fun truck..glad i have it now! :cool:

just got back from 2nd run...LOL broke the rear body posts off....darn, now i gots to order parts :mad: ..and i JUST got it last friday :(

[tadium54]

gt- go for rpm posts. theyre awesome

[GT Freak]

when i destroy the first set i will :)

[mlst modder]

I run an emaxx with big joe 40 series tiers cheyene wheels aluminum skids hv maxx brushless proline rock crawler body custom paint by my friend its SICK and some other small **** my hv maxx BLOWS thro spurs i ru a gp3300 7 cell the thing is friecken INSANE

[rc addict]

I GOT PUBLISHED IN THE JULY 2006 RCCA MAG! *SO HAPPY* I love them for hearing me out. Pg. 28 "Nitro Vs. Electric: The Rematch"

[MAXXdrifter99]

does anyone else have a problem with spur gear meltdown after two or three runs? i Have burned up 3 spurs in ten runs. its getting expensive at $12-$15 a pop and lhs wont carry aluminum or steel spurs for emaxx. i have been running full tight after i melted my first spur gear.

[Just Gundam]

Sounds like it was still not fully tightened. Hold onto the spur gear (with all your might :p ) while tightening.

[I Trust Tyler]

sounds crazy, i run a 7xl with 18cells(obviously risking damage) with stock slipper and some slip(still pretty tight) and i never ever melted a gear, even when it got fairly hot. You just gotta tighten that mofo.

[MAXXdrifter99]

maybe i need a new spring then b/c the lock nut is down as far as it will go. i got it used and im afraid i got it abused. but it is so d!@#%$ frustrating, charge batts, go out and after 10-15 min the truck over revs and stops moving.

[Badmaxx-24]

This Is my E-maxx with Ford F-350 body Trinity motor heat sinks Traxxas Aluminum battery hold downs Aluminum Skid Plates, Bumpers, and trans cover. Also Traxxas Big bore shocks. and Maximizer 5 hole black Beadlock rims. with Imex J-hawg tires Let me know what u guys think.


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e323/Bigboy1979/Midnitemaxx1.jpg

[GT Freak]

well, just broke my first parts:
upper arm
2 shock caps
:mad:

will be staying stock for now!

[kurrz]

This Is my E-maxx with Ford F-350 body Trinity motor heat sinks Traxxas Aluminum battery hold downs Aluminum Skid Plates, Bumpers, and trans cover. Also Traxxas Big bore shocks. and Maximizer 5 hole black Beadlock rims. with Imex J-hawg tires Let me know what u guys think.


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e323/Bigboy1979/Midnitemaxx1.jpg
Nice truck I love those j hawgs.

[bad viking]

Hi.
My E-maxx has a big problem with really bad steering respons and steering power!
Is it this because the servosaver is defect or is the standard servo to weak?
or both?

If someone could give me a tip, I`d be gratefull.

Bad Viking

[GT Freak]

im having the same prob too (what caused broken parts) what would a good servo be to get :confused:

[mp7maxx]

both the servo saver and the servo are crap. you should get the kimbrough saver and a hitec 645 mg servo. We covered this already read the thread!

[tadium54]

kimbrough 124 and any decent steering servo will make a big diffrence. the stock saver is pretty crapy

[deathbybubba]

Hello everyone. I am trying to find out what I need to convert my first gen t-maxx to an E. I saw that Wolfen had done it with a tmaxx chassis almost four years ago. Any help would be appreciated

[metalry101]

Hello everyone. I am trying to find out what I need to convert my first gen t-maxx to an E. I saw that Wolfen had done it with a tmaxx chassis almost four years ago. Any help would be appreciated
Ebay it and buy an E-Maxx. Seriously. I'm not saying it to be an ass, I'm saying it because you'll spend A LOT less money that way. An E-Maxx transmission, plus a chassis, an ESC, motors, steering assembly (different from the T)...ya...you'd easily spend as much buying all of that as you would on an entire brand new truck.

[GT Freak]

well, found that i broke:

upper and lower a arm
2 shock caps
bent hinge pins

guess in going RPM now. didnt want to so soon, but only have had the truck under a month.

as 4 hinge pins, should i stay stock :confused:

[mp7maxx]

What are some good and decently priced hinge pins, i guess my accident from january bent some hinge pins. also what is a good screw kit i'm stripping screws left and right

[revo kid]

i have a problem with my E-Maxx. the stering is having a VERY HARD TIME TURNING....THE ....TIRES even when it is moving what gives? :confused: :confused: i know that the servoes SUCK but i was fine becouse i am a basher but all the sudon my stering has made it hell to hit ramps :mad:

[tadium54]

lunsford turnbuckle and hinge pin combo are the only real decent set for the price. look for tonys screws online for 10.9 or 12.9 grade zinc screws. kimbrough 124 servo saver and something like a hitec, cirrus or bluebird servos are good for the price

update- my new body is masked and cut, i just sent it off to a friend to paint it. should be good when it comes back. now all i need are some titanium skids and maybe a superduty xr

[CWD_Racing]

Interesting article about a really pricey use of E-Maxx trucks in the Big Sand Box:
$5000 disposeable? (http://www.defensetech.org/archives/002496.html) :eek:

[GT Freak]

has anyone seen the NEW duratrax batteries yet?? they come with DEANS PLUGS!! bout time!

[maxxmanxxx]

hey just finished puting my truck back together but ya its been raining so no test runs hope i can hit 60mph not sure though lots of metal really heavy anyone know how much a full metal brushless e- maxx would weigh :D

[rc addict]

hey just finished puting my truck back together but ya its been raining so no test runs hope i can hit 60mph not sure though lots of metal really heavy anyone know how much a full metal brushless e- maxx would weigh :D

Alot. Upwards of 13 pounds maybe

[rc addict]

Hey everyone, here are the latest shots of my E... I hope I can get all your opinions...

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/209803/

Over time its been upgraded from bone stock into a full race ready machine...
-RPM arms, rear shock tower, and rear,front, center skids
-Dynamite CVD's, chassis braces, rear aluminum bulkheads
-new traxxas 3.3 style body posts and front bulkhead
-Proline Powerstroke shock kit, Bowtie tires on maxx sized velocity wheels
-Lunsford turnbuckles
-Novak HV-Maxx brushless kit
-Robinson Racing Steel spur gears
-Traxxas lightweight input shaft and teflon coated idlers
-Gorilla Max battery straps
-Promatch 7 cell matched gp3300's
-stock body and radio gear

-almost all of my upgrade parts were bought on ebay new or almost used, including the hv maxx kit :)

[tadium54]

get rid of the radio. its not the best for anythignother than light driving. get a cheap fm radio like an mx3 or something to give you more options

[rc addict]

I have the mx3, i just havent had the time to switch the receivers and radio gear lol. My more serious racer, my M18 actually gets it for right now. :rolleyes:

[tadium54]

ah i see. try to grab another rx or something so it would work with the mx3

[kurrz]

I've got a quick question. Today I got the maxx out and it ran fine for about 5 minutes and then, I went to shift from 1st to second and it did'nt engage. It just sat there and the motors spun. So I put it back in 1st and then second again it worked on and off. So my question is I don't have time tonight to tear it apart but, is their a common failure that causes this? I'd like to order parts tonight. Thanks

[tadium54]

id guess your linkage is a bit off. readjust and go from there

[kurrz]

OK Thanks tadium. Is there an adjusting screw or do I need to take the transmission out? I don't have a manual with the tear downs. Thanks

[tadium54]

try to adjust it from the shifter servo. thats your best bet i think

[kurrz]

Yeah thanks tadium I realized while I was running today what you meant. The shifting servo is jerking and pulling it out of second. Thanks for the help.

[kurrz]

Alright. Just got new 7 cell packs from maxamps and put deans on. Truck ran awesome for 15 minutes. Then the motors started to cut out and then no steering. Is my evx fried? Thanks. It figures it would break now, I'm on vacation this week. :(

[marinearmenibro]

I'm saving up for a E-Maxx and was wondering what should be the first thing I buy for it. What are the most common parts breaking right out of the box. Thanks in advance.

[tadium54]

bulkheads and skids

[kurrz]

Alright. Just got new 7 cell packs from maxamps and put deans on. Truck ran awesome for 15 minutes. Then the motors started to cut out and then no steering. Is my evx fried? Thanks. It figures it would break now, I'm on vacation this week. :(
Anyone?

[Maxx42]

Anyone?

I had the same kind of thing happen to me with my evx a while back. I was practicing at the local track and after driving for a while it stopped running completely much like you described yours. I was running 14 cheap cells that day with the stock titans. I called traxxas and they just asked me to send it in for repair. I never sent it in because my first brushless set up was supposed to arrive the next day and figured that I'd never be using the evx again anyway.

[tadium54]

if i had to take a guess, by the sounds of it you thermaled. let it cool down and try with 2 6 cell packs. if it seems ok, then try the 7s

[GT Freak]

just got off the yakbox with TRX, found we CAN run the new T12's in the maxx..just gotta piggyback a set of xl10's to do so...man, cant wait to do that..and with a set of 7 cells...MADNESS! :eek: :cool:

[Maxx42]

if i had to take a guess, by the sounds of it you thermaled. let it cool down and try with 2 6 cell packs. if it seems ok, then try the 7s

It's possible that the esc thermaling may be the case with kurrz, but when my esc shut down it was cool and so were the titans.

[metalry101]

just got off the yakbox with TRX, found we CAN run the new T12's in the maxx..just gotta piggyback a set of xl10's to do so...man, cant wait to do that..and with a set of 7 cells...MADNESS! :eek: :cool:
I agree that it'd be kinda cool, but...why?

$150ish in ESC's...and another $50ish in motors? You're almost to a Novak brushless system...why not just get it instead?

[Ball Racing]

Put a Novak super duty on there instead of two of xl10s,
Don't you think that this is what Traxxas is going to do to re-vamp the e-maxx?

[tadium54]

traxxas needs to do a few things in my mind to update the e-maxx, and the super duty is one of them. im not sure if traxxas will even upgrade the e maxx

[metalry101]

Alrighty...I decided I miss not having an electric monster truck. Anyone got an E-Maxx, E-Zilla, or Twin Force that they're looking to get rid of for cheap or for a trade? If so, LMK.

[kurrz]

Would a servo gone bad interfere with the radio and or esc? Thanks

[GT Freak]

anyone thought of trying this??

http://home.comcast.net/~milemarkers/index.html

[GT Freak]

Well, got my rpm parts... YES!! arms,and skids!! WOW, those arms are BEEFY :eek: Now just gotta get some new shock caps on the 15th...temp:using my pede shock caps, they fit so im ready to rock \m/

[tadium54]

nice. the rpm parts are pretty cool. youll like em

[tadium54]

ok update from page 60.

-dual rrp 19 or 20t pinnions
got em

- a body that actually fits(like the crowd pleaser 2.0 for the mgt)
getting a friend to paint a f-350 extended

- a bluebird servo for my aching cirrus servo(have the replacement at hime right now, just waiting for the cirrus to die first lol)
the cirrus servo is still alive, but the bluebird one was switched to steering for better response

-dynamite vision peak and 5 more packs if canada customs releases it argh
got it after a while lol

-dynamite aluminum shocks(tradeing some tools with any luck)
this one fell through, but the friend whos painting the body might have some shocks for me that are better than what i have now

-maybe lock the truck in 2nd gear
ill keep it like it is for now-might be getting some changes done to the powerplants

-get 2 more maxx paddles, take the modified traxxas ones off of the rpm rims, put the maxx paddles on them, get some misc rims, glue the modified maxx tires on some old grren velocity 6 rims that i have and get like a set of maxx mulchers for the rear of my rig and run a mix and matched kinda thing
ok heres what happened. i got the new paddles, took my old front rims and tires off, put the new paddles on those rims, took my set of broken proline velocity 6 rims and got 2 out of the 3 good ones, took the modified stock tires and put them on those proline velocity rims. i have maxx mulchers in the rear on proline velocity rims

-complete shock rebuild with black springs and 40 wt
changed the springs to all blacks, didnt change the oil tho

-fix an old body so i can run it with this rig;open bed, so i can change batteries easier
ah to hell with this one lol

- a superduty xl just for the hell of it lol
scrol down for more on this


since last update, ive also installed:
-nuova faor(i think) diffs
-aluminum diff brace

ok, so heres what im going for now
-titanium skids
-kershaw designs dual 970 motors with the super duty for a very reasonable price, i have to admit

[GT Freak]

well, broke the other front arm today. so now i have all 4 arms RPM'D plus i added there skid set as well! :)

[tadium54]

cool. rpm stuff is just about bulletproof

[GT Freak]

do u have a maxx?? can i see it?

[tadium54]

go to page 60. its there

[GT Freak]

heres what powers my maxx...guess whats new?? :p

[GT Freak]

New stuff on my project

Modded RPM arms with a lower garolite shock tower (remind me never to grind this stuff again)
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0234.jpg

Custom tranny. The main shaft was turned from .75 6061. Its supported by two peices of nylon, one doubling as a motor mount.
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0235.jpg

Here you can see how low it is
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0236.jpg


Has anyone thought about turning the maxx into "Wild Maxx"...make a big brother to the Wild Willy sorta thing??

[GT Freak]

http://www.gorillamaxx.com/images/g2006-chr-al-5.jpg I know this is off topoic but here it goes.http://www.gorillamaxx.com/ Has anyone else seen this chassis? I was just wondering if it was for racing (low stance) or for bashing(cell capacity). If I'm correct, it can hold 16 cells, so if this were a project truck, would it work with 16 4200 trinity cells and twin brushless motors? With that powertrain, what would performance be like? After my nitro revo was beaten by an electric revo at my local track, I started to wonder what if... Any comments?

where can i get one at??

[metalry101]

where can i get one at??
Here. (http://www.gorillamaxx.com/)

[tadium54]

i got some dynamite skids today so we'll see how they hold up. got some shrink too for the batteries, which is something ive wanted for a while. just need to wait for the body, maybe some nice gt level shocks and then maybe the kershaw kit

[GT Freak]

Well, got my new rims less then a min after i had them, i attacked them... :p

just gotta find some new street meat 4 them... :confused:

[tadium54]

also got some alum wheel hexes. would recomend them- theyre pretty cool

[GT Freak]

not sure about all that aluminum yet...

[metalry101]

I agree with Tay on this one. Aluminum hexes won't go anywhere under load, whereas the plastic ones will start to round out after a lot of use. It's cheap insurance against stripping out a hex. It's your choice really, but a $20 set of aluminum hexes is cheap compared to $40 worth of tire and wheel.

[GT Freak]

so im guessing traxxas brand would be best??

[metalry101]

so im guessing traxxas brand would be best??
Any should work well enough I'd think, but I'd probably go Traxxas. They're not expensive, the anodizing is very, very nicely done, and they're machined out a lot so they don't add much, if any, weight, yet they're still much stronger than the stock plastic.

[tadium54]

i think mine are hardcore, but i got them in a package deal, so i almost had to use them lol

[GT Freak]

loves to climb curbs :)
wont wheelie on cement (good thing) :D
is fast on 6 cell 3300 packs :cool:

[tadium54]

it also loves to climb hills too

[hamdahl]

07-25-2006 How do you keep the chassi clean on the e-max?

[hamdahl]

07-25-2006 How do you keep the chassi clean on the e-max?

[tadium54]

with a rag, air compressor, and toothbrush

[justinspankey]

is there any online store that sells a complete emaxx tranny?

[metalry101]

is there any online store that sells a complete emaxx tranny?
Not that I've ever seen. Traxxas doesn't offer it complete, only in parts. so the only way to get it is to either piece it together, or to buy one complete on Ebay. To be honest, I think it's actually cheaper to build it with parts from your LHS (or wherever you get your parts from) than it is to buy it as a whole on Ebay. I haven't paid much attention, but I have glanced at them a few times and they seem to usually go for $70+. I think you could build a brand new one, bearings and all, for around $50 or $60.

[scoob]

My Titans aren't worn out yet but I have quite a few runs on them. When they do get worn I was thinking of getting the huge Johnson 970 motor kit from Kershaw designs instead of new titans. It's only 69.99 and with the motor mount I could have future upgrades to dual 970's or maybe a lagre BL motor. Has anyone else tried this setup or one of the other Kershaw setups?

I don't expect huge power gains but that's a good thing since I am not planning to upgrade the driveline yet.

[tadium54]

im considering getting them too

[metalry101]

Alright...I posted this before...but I'll try again. Anyone have an E-Maxx they're looking to unload? I miss mine and want another. Would prefer to trade, but could do cash if the price is right.

[tadium54]

how about a roller/parts truck?

[metalry101]

how about a roller/parts truck?
If the price was right...

[guver]

I have a very well worn, used one that works great, can sell for $149 as a roller or $199 as an rtr. It has one speed and aluminum rear bulks as the only hop-up.

[metalry101]

I have a very well worn, used one that works great, can sell for $149 as a roller or $199 as an rtr. It has one speed and aluminum rear bulks as the only hop-up.
Shoot me some pics please. metalry101@hotmail.com

[badboy2]

My Titans aren't worn out yet but I have quite a few runs on them. When they do get worn I was thinking of getting the huge Johnson 970 motor kit from Kershaw designs instead of new titans. It's only 69.99 and with the motor mount I could have future upgrades to dual 970's or maybe a lagre BL motor. Has anyone else tried this setup or one of the other Kershaw setups?

I don't expect huge power gains but that's a good thing since I am not planning to upgrade the driveline yet.


i was gonna get the 970s too but i think theyre trying to discontinue them coz theyre having problems with them?im not sure about it prolly just for the savage conversion..so heres what i got a dual 700motors ..it can lift my savs front with all that weight from batts and my set up..

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/530/dsc022763bg.jpg

[tadium54]

heres a pic of the new body i have. im a fan of it for sure lol

[metalry101]

Looks good Tay. I really dig the new body. I've gotta say though...the non-matching front and rear wheels and tires have gotta go. Overall it's kickass though...very nice.

[GT Freak]

nice ride, enjoy it!:)

[tadium54]

lol i will

the tires and wheels will stay for now. they work really well and stand out on the fields. its helps

[hamdahl]

Why does i need a slipperclutch what does it do?

[metalry101]

Why does i need a slipperclutch what does it do?
It protects the drivetrain from shockloads. Say you go off a jump at 15 miles an hour and keep the throttle pinned with the truck is in the air. With no resistance on those tires, they'll spool up to 25 miles an hour, but the truck is still only doing 15 miles an hour. When you land, you're putting a huge shockload on the drivetrain. If there's no give anywhere, it just wears on parts if you're lucky, and if you're not, it breaks them. The slipper clutch is designed to absorb all of that energy so that the diffs, tranny, and driveshafts don't have to.

[pcnutz]

now that traxxas has revamped thier who line of rc cars and trucks except the traxxas e-maxx, do you think its last to happen or not going to happen?

[tadium54]

itd be nice, but i doubt it

[Maxx42]

now that traxxas has revamped thier who line of rc cars and trucks except the traxxas e-maxx, do you think its last to happen or not going to happen?

I'd like to see that happen too, but with all of the aftermarket options for the emaxx, I think it would be tough for traxxas to make any kind of improvement that isn't already out there. I would like to see a stock electric version of the revo though.

[GT Freak]

they still need to upgrade:
spirit
4-tec
bandit

[metalry101]

they still need to upgrade:
spirit
4-tec
bandit
The Bandit and Spirit need to be killed off, and the 4-Tec needs a complete redesign, not just some grey plastic and new electronics.

[tadium54]

amen to that

[jocktheglide165]

did anyone try the RCwd.com all metal emaxx gears?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminum-Gears-for-Traxxas-E-Maxx-EMaxx-Transmission_W0QQitemZ200013200080QQihZ010QQcatego ryZ44028QQcmdZViewItem

[pcnutz]

I have not tried them, but I would only recomend the ultramaxxed gears cause I know they work on my 9xl and 10L and the various duallies I made in the past

[tadium54]

be prepared to spend big cash tho- i don't think theyre in production anymore

[jocktheglide165]

I have not tried them, but I would only recomend the ultramaxxed gears cause I know they work on my 9xl and 10L and the various duallies I made in the past
oh I agree, but who wants to spend over 300 dollars when I can spend 300 dollars on something else that truely improves my emaxx (JMO). I dont think I would ever have as much power as you had though...im just using the novak HV setups.. :D

[Legend_Car]

hey guys im gonna get this brushless setup

http://www.starluckrc.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=156

mtroniks trucks esc and a feiago 540-10L motor. what do you think?
im also going to get cvds but was wondering if these will work

MIP CVD Center Drive Kit E-Maxx
MIP CVD Kit Front/Rear T/E-Maxx Old

will those work on a widemaxx and also how can i get lst shocks to fit on a emaxx?

assuming lst shocks are impossible to install what is the thickest weight of shock oil i can use? 100? what will diff oil do if i install it in shocks. i was thinking some trinity 100 weight

[jocktheglide165]

LST shocks wont work...I bought 8 brand news one and it dont fit one bit....it be nice if it did, but it wont..

[Legend_Car]

so does my brushless set up look good then?

[tadium54]

you need the longer cvds if you have the widemaxx, and the bl looks fine

[metalry101]

hey guys im gonna get this brushless setup

http://www.starluckrc.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=156

mtroniks trucks esc and a feiago 540-10L motor. what do you think?
im also going to get cvds but was wondering if these will work

MIP CVD Center Drive Kit E-Maxx
MIP CVD Kit Front/Rear T/E-Maxx Old

will those work on a widemaxx and also how can i get lst shocks to fit on a emaxx?

assuming lst shocks are impossible to install what is the thickest weight of shock oil i can use? 100? what will diff oil do if i install it in shocks. i was thinking some trinity 100 weight
Dunno about the BL setup...probably good stuff. Better to search around the BL section of this board.

Like Tay said, those CVD's will not work in the WideMaxx. The "old" refers to the original "old" width. The centers will work though.

As for the shocks...why would you want 100 weight? The suspension wouldn't even move with that kind of oil in it.

[Legend_Car]

60 weight?

[metalry101]

60 weight?
Stock shocks?

[Legend_Car]

yah there stockers with red springs

[metalry101]

yah there stockers with red springs
I wouldn't go with anything above 40 weight or you'll just blow the caps every time you hit a land a decent sized jump or hit a really big bump.

[badboy2]

i noticed that on my dual 700s that im low on the top end..it has low end but top end is not that much...or maybe because my sav is just heavy?anyway is that combo u showed from starluck any good?is it better than the nemesis xlt-4 and bk9920 combo?this combo is the one they have on the lst at finedesignrc..but its like almost 300 for the combo..200 sounds more reasonable..

[Legend_Car]

he said it would push my e-maxx to about 45 mph sweet 40 weight it is i just happen to have a bottle sitting here

[metalry101]

i noticed that on my dual 700s that im low on the top end..it has low end but top end is not that much...or maybe because my sav is just heavy?anyway is that combo u showed from starluck any good?is it better than the nemesis xlt-4 and bk9920 combo?this combo is the one they have on the lst at finedesignrc..but its like almost 300 for the combo..200 sounds more reasonable..
I'd go with the same setup as the LST2 on the electrified Savage. It's a lot heavier than a Maxx (lighter than an LST2 though).

As for the top end out of those 700's...generally speaking, the bigger things get the less they like to rev. If you've got lotza torque and are willing to give a little bit up, you might try some taller gearing to get some top end back.

[badboy2]

right now im using 20t pinion and 52t spur..what can u guys suggest?16t is good?

[metalry101]

right now im using 20t pinion and 52t spur..what can u guys suggest?16t is good?
16 would be lower, meaning more torque. You want to gear the thing up if you can, meaning a bigger gear.

[tadium54]

bigger pinion that is. a bigger spur will just increase torque

[hamdahl]

Hi What Gear should i have if i want to run reely slow over rocks etc?

[tadium54]

not an e maxx, thats for sure lol. but if you have to use the e maxx, use 12 tooth pinnions or so

[badboy2]

im trying to set up my evx on a jr xs3 ..but everytime i switch it on the truck would just run..so i have to use AM ..i really wanted to use my xs3 on it but everytime i hook it up with a fm radio the truck just go by itself..any info on how to set it up on fm?

[jocktheglide165]

Hi What Gear should i have if i want to run reely slow over rocks etc?
txt....

[metalry101]

im trying to set up my evx on a jr xs3 ..but everytime i switch it on the truck would just run..so i have to use AM ..i really wanted to use my xs3 on it but everytime i hook it up with a fm radio the truck just go by itself..any info on how to set it up on fm?
Center your throttle trim on the transmitter and reset the ESC (disconnect the motors from the ESC). After that, it should work great.

[MrB1973]

Has anyone ever heard of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/LRP-LRP57800-Big-Block-Special-Motor_W0QQitemZ120016983350QQihZ002QQcategoryZ3406 3QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If so, are they any good? I just got an e-maxx and was poking around kicking the tires on some potential upgrades.

Thanks

[vaderbxman]

here's a quick question, can you run the e-maxx off of one motor, and if so, please explain how. thanks!!

[guver]

You can, just remove one. You would have to gear down a significant amount to avoid overworking it. It would be better to series wire the two motors on there if you want to slow it down.

[badboy2]

Center your throttle trim on the transmitter and reset the ESC (disconnect the motors from the ESC). After that, it should work great.


i got it running but the truck moves if i set the th trim to 0.so i decreased the trim to -20 thats the point where it doesnt roll..is that ok?

[vaderbxman]

thanks for the advice!!

[rc addict]

you can also run the emaxx on one motor and just get the hv maxx brushless system...alot more powerful than the two stock combined

[metalry101]

i got it running but the truck moves if i set the th trim to 0.so i decreased the trim to -20 thats the point where it doesnt roll..is that ok?
Ya, that's fine.

[GT Freak]

curb crawling and "wheelie walkin" is what i love to do with my maxx.
Also, love climbing gravel piles and dirt hills :)

dont like jumping too much :(

[tadium54]

jumping is alot of fun once you get good at it

[T-Maxxahol]

Anyone know where to buy bomb-proof products... his web states out of stock for most of everything...

[tadium54]

e-mail them or ebay

[rc addict]

Hey I dont get which brushless motor is fastest... (regardless of brand: Feigao, Nemesis, Lehner, Hacker) Is it the 8L, 9L, or 10L, and what do they represent in numbers? I want the fastest motor for my maxx. Im thinking of switching from the HV-Maxx to a faster system...
Also, can the HV-Maxx esc handle a feigao, lehner, hacker or nemesis motor? If so, what are the limits as far as number of cells and size of motor. Will it be any faster? Please try and answer what you can, Thanks

[metalry101]

Hey I dont get which brushless motor is fastest... (regardless of brand: Feigao, Nemesis, Lehner, Hacker) Is it the 8L, 9L, or 10L, and what do they represent in numbers? I want the fastest motor for my maxx. Im thinking of switching from the HV-Maxx to a faster system...
Also, can the HV-Maxx esc handle a feigao, lehner, hacker or nemesis motor? If so, what are the limits as far as number of cells and size of motor. Will it be any faster? Please try and answer what you can, Thanks
I don't know which one is the fastest to be honest. I think the numbers refer to turns, so technically, the 8 would be fastest. However, it doesn't always work like that. It might rev higher and make more peak power, but it might not have enough torque to really push an E-Maxx, so you might have to gear it way down, taking away those extra revs. Without the torque, it'd also have to work harder, meaning you'd pull more amps, generate more heat, and just generally not do anything good. "Faster" is rarely better, especially in the world of monster trucks.

[rc addict]

I think the 9L is probably the best balance

[Maxx42]

Hey I dont get which brushless motor is fastest... (regardless of brand: Feigao, Nemesis, Lehner, Hacker) Is it the 8L, 9L, or 10L, and what do they represent in numbers? I want the fastest motor for my maxx. Im thinking of switching from the HV-Maxx to a faster system...
Also, can the HV-Maxx esc handle a feigao, lehner, hacker or nemesis motor? If so, what are the limits as far as number of cells and size of motor. Will it be any faster? Please try and answer what you can, Thanks

It's hard to say which motor is fastest. For starters, if you aren't using lipos, you won't get the full performance out of your motor. Nicads or nimhs just can't supply the amperage that most brushless motors need to get to their optimum performance level. I've used a feigao 9L (4s lipo) in the past and it was great. I have also used a 7XL (4s lipo) which had tons of more power than the 9L, but it ran very hot. Right now I'm using a 9XL (4s and 5s lipo), and it has more torque than the 7XL on 4s lipo (still a little slower though). On 5s lipo it's noticeably faster than the 7XL, while running much cooler and giving longer runtimes.

Also I'm pretty sure that the HV maxx controller can only handle sensored motors.

[Rtsbasic]

Strictly speaking the HV Maxx controller can only handle sensored motors, without extensive modification to the motor.

Personally I run a Feigao 9XL/BK Warrior 9920 combo on 12-20 cells, runs brilliantly, doesn't overheat and has bundles of torque at any rev. On 12 cells its a bit lacking for top speed - 35mph or so, but bump the voltage up and that soon becomes 50mph+, if your transmission can take it.

If you only ever plan to run 12 NIMH cells, i'd recommend a Feigao/BK Wandeder 8XL. The 7XL would be faster but run hotter, and you may find the 9XL a bit lacking in top speed. Previously I ran an 8L/Mtroniks Genesis Truck combo on 12 cells and it was very good, good top speed, good torque if you knew when to use it, although it ran hot it never got hot enough to damage anything or thermal. Infact my friend still runs this setup today with good success.

[4wdmt]

Hi guys. I have a question.

Is it OK to fully tighten the slipper clutch nut? I was driving my HV-Maxx powered E-Maxx yesterday when suddenly after around 1 minutes of driving - it stopped moving and just reving when I hit the throttle. Found out the inside most part of the spur gear where the friction pegs are melted! Was my slipper too loose? I tightened it fully and back off 1/4th of a turn. I read in the other foum that they fully tighten the nut and added those friction pegs to make it 12 (instead of 6).

Will I try just backing off 1/8th of a turn from being fully tightened or shall I go all out tightened. Your opinion will be greatlly appreciated. I dont want to buy too much spur gears for spare, or in the other hand, I dont want to destroy the internal parts of the transmission just because of a fully tightened clutch nut.

TYIA.

[Maxx42]

It's a good idea to have some degree of slip to protect your tranny with your slipper clutch. If you tighten it all the way down, you will put your tranny and drivetrain through some serious abuse every time you land a jump or every time you lose traction and suddenly gain traction again. The stock friction peg setup really doesn't hold up to brushless power very well, so I'd advise you to look into a stronger slipper setup like the robinson racing slipper at the least or ideally the strobe slipper setup if you can find one (I think they aren't in production anymore). If you do keep the friction peg slipper, keep in mind that the pegs do wear down. It would be a good idea to readjust your slipper after a few runs by retightening the tension nut all the way down and then backing it off about a quarter turn (or to whatever works best for your liking). Hope this helps.

[4wdmt]

thank you for the reply. ill keep that in mind.

[maxd out]

Try this site 4 the strobe they are awsome
http://www.rc-monster.com/gears.php, i also run with a cro-molly idler gear this will make the gear box alot stronger

[rc addict]

I am considering now switching over to lithum polymer for my emaxx, and im wondering a couple of things:

1: Can I use just 1 4s lithum pack? or will I need two?

2: Can a duratrax ice most likely handle the packs designed for an emaxx, even if its a 1C rating charge and takes a century?

3: Do ALL lithum polymer packs (this is useful for my 1/18th scale future lipos as well) need a cell balancer IN ADDITION to a charger? What kind of connectors are typically found on a balancer and does it go between the cells and the charger?

Thanks alot,
Ken

[guver]

1 a 4S pack will work if using a single connector and the current is within limits. Any number of packs can be parralled to increas capacities. I'd use the max voltage allowed by esc.

2 Ice will handle nearly any pack up to 4S

3 All packs should be at least checked and the need a balanced only if they are off too much. Some will stay balanced, some will not. Balancers can be stand alone or go in between the charger and battery, there's also balancing chargers out now and a whole bunch of different configurations for connectors. If you buy all same brand it would be nice.

[rc addict]

Thanks guver that was really helpful.

Haha today is my Emaxx's and my birthday! As you can guess I got it last year as a gift so maybe I can get it a present like a new set of tires or somethin lol.

[GT Freak]

Has anyone weighed a maxx with rpm arms,skids and stock everything else :confused: how do u weigh these trucks :confused:

[tadium54]

im guessing no. so find the weight of the upper and lower rpm arms, multiply that by 4, then find the weight of the original upper and lower arms, multiply by 4. subtract the original from the rpm weight and add that value to the truck. then add the skid weight to it and your done. see? not hard

[jocktheglide165]

KAPOW.....I just installed the novak 4.5HV and this thing rocks if this does not satisfy your speed cravings for an emaxx then I dont know what will its not stupid fast where you cant control, but enough to say, "what an improvement" Im not even running running 14.4v with batteries running only 13.2v (turbo box is still in commission getting fixed), but boy its awesome my final weight is notec in pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1541.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1540.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1539.jpg

[GT Freak]

im happy with my maxx the way it is :) stock with rpm front arms and skid plates :)

[badboy2]

how are those a123 batt packs?how much run time u get on them?

[tadium54]

nice ride jock. pretty trick

[jocktheglide165]

how are those a123 batt packs?how much run time u get on them?
naw stop and go im getting 15mins or so just enough that i dont get tired of it after 10mins im usually tired and quit...

[tadium54]

just took the stock shocks off in favor of some nice ae gt rear end shocks. very nice, cant wait to give em a work out

[rc addict]

i need some help here guys, im running 5 minute heat races at my track with my hvmaxx system and the esc just cant even handle 7 cells for racing for 5 minutes without overheating. One of the losi sponsored pros, anthony mezzaro, suggested i go down to either 6 cells, or get a higher amperage esc. Im leaning towards the esc because i have a really really nice pair of matched 7 cells. What is a better esc than the hvmaxx esc that can handle 7 cells easily, and wont be too hard on my wallet? thanks alot

[jocktheglide165]

my emaxx brok accidently ran into a garbage can from the side. Whats the mah rating on your cells and whats the limit? RCCA ran a article on running GP3300s (high end ones) they got a full 10mins out of them from full to dump.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1561.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1560.jpg

[GT Freak]

Got my 2nd E today. traded my t3 for it. now PROJECT STREET begins!
IT NEEDS:
evx
batt straps
rear bumper & mount
gear cover

IT'S GETTIN:
new wheels(sport maxx rims)
bumper and mount
street meat(not sure where to start)
Car/Truck body of some sort

ideas, hints will be appreciated.
NOT GOING BL THO(dont even go there)

also, i found a hi-tec hs-605bb servo...will that work better then a stock steering servo?? if not, could i use it for shifting??

[metalry101]

i need some help here guys, im running 5 minute heat races at my track with my hvmaxx system and the esc just cant even handle 7 cells for racing for 5 minutes without overheating. One of the losi sponsored pros, anthony mezzaro, suggested i go down to either 6 cells, or get a higher amperage esc. Im leaning towards the esc because i have a really really nice pair of matched 7 cells. What is a better esc than the hvmaxx esc that can handle 7 cells easily, and wont be too hard on my wallet? thanks alot
That sounds like a gearing issue more than anything. Novak BL systems are notorious for running hot, but not so hot that the thermal in a 5 minute heat when geared right. How do you have the truck geared? Do you run big tires or lots of aluminum? Do you run Deans or the stock Tamiya connectors?

[rc addict]

That sounds like a gearing issue more than anything. Novak BL systems are notorious for running hot, but not so hot that the thermal in a 5 minute heat when geared right. How do you have the truck geared? Do you run big tires or lots of aluminum? Do you run Deans or the stock Tamiya connectors?

Ah metalry, i forgot to tell you guys these factors. I do not run alot of aluminum. Here is my set up: I run a kimbrough 72 tooth spur gear, and the stock pinions ( i forgot how many teeth the stock ones are). I know the kimbrough is larger than the stock 66tooth spur though. I have a set of robinson racing 14t pinions lying in my toolbox that i could install if you happen to suggest it. HVmaxx system with fan on it, deans connectors; I run proline powerstrokes. The only two aluminum parts on the whole truck that I could picture adding weight are the chassis braces and rear bulkhead. Thats it. front RPM a arms, stock rear. Rear rpm shock tower. Proline 40 series bowties on velocity rims. Although i have a set of maxx sized bowties on dishes that i could put on if you suggest it as well. Im running two promatch 7 cell matched gp 3300's. stock chassis, hs-645mg, fm radio...Everything else is stock except for dynamite cvds on all four corners, and aluminum hexes.

So to summarize it, im running a large spur gear with the stock pinions. I also ran it in second gear the whole race. Would you suggest changing my tires back to maxx size tires and decreasing the pinion size to 14t? Also what gear should i run in, 1st or second? The guy told me second is ideal. I will include a picture of my setup below.

[rc addict]

http://prophotohost.com/uploads/c3f6e4a404.jpg (http://prophotohost.com)

[rc addict]

And metalry, these are the maxx bowties i was talking about...
http://prophotohost.com/uploads/fa6a39c79b.jpg (http://prophotohost.com)

[GT Freak]

well, looks like im getting a decent start on it. getting the rear bumper/mount and batt hold downs soon. now just need to find a gear cover.... :confused: heres a pic of it so far. took the stock wheels/tires off, put the new rims on it.

[GT Freak]

Heres a "underneth shot" came with a alum front skid. so got my work cut out for me. :p

[metalry101]

Ah metalry, i forgot to tell you guys these factors. I do not run alot of aluminum. Here is my set up: I run a kimbrough 72 tooth spur gear, and the stock pinions ( i forgot how many teeth the stock ones are). I know the kimbrough is larger than the stock 66tooth spur though. I have a set of robinson racing 14t pinions lying in my toolbox that i could install if you happen to suggest it. HVmaxx system with fan on it, deans connectors; I run proline powerstrokes. The only two aluminum parts on the whole truck that I could picture adding weight are the chassis braces and rear bulkhead. Thats it. front RPM a arms, stock rear. Rear rpm shock tower. Proline 40 series bowties on velocity rims. Although i have a set of maxx sized bowties on dishes that i could put on if you suggest it as well. Im running two promatch 7 cell matched gp 3300's. stock chassis, hs-645mg, fm radio...Everything else is stock except for dynamite cvds on all four corners, and aluminum hexes.

So to summarize it, im running a large spur gear with the stock pinions. I also ran it in second gear the whole race. Would you suggest changing my tires back to maxx size tires and decreasing the pinion size to 14t? Also what gear should i run in, 1st or second? The guy told me second is ideal. I will include a picture of my setup below.
Nice Maxx man. Makes me want to get one again. Very clean, very nice.

Anyways...according to Novak's site...the gearing is what's causing the problem. Here's a link (http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/hvMaxx_gearing_addendum.pdf) to a downloadable PDF with suggested gearing. Basically...I'd try the 14's (the stock pinions have 18 teeth) that you've got in your tool box, and you might look around for some a little lower, just depending on how your track is laid out.

About the tires...they're pretty much exactly the same size but with different sidewall heights. I don't believe you'd need to gear the truck differently if you switched the sets. Just run whichever you think works better on the track.

And as for the tranny...I'd probably leave it in second, especially with brushless power to pull you out of the corners, but again, it just depends on the track. If you're having a hard time making the tight corners, first gear might give you the extra punch to really rotate the truck, or it might just spin the tires uncontrollably and make the truck wheelie over. If it's an open track with a lot of high speed stuff, you'd probably never need first gear. If it's a real tight track with only one straight, you might consider using first gear in the infield, but second might work better. In the end, what matters is what you feel more comfortable with and what you put down faster, more consistent lap times with. I'd say experiment with your driving style and such and have a friend time your laps. Average out your times between the two driving styles and see which style is faster. You'll probably be able to tell from the driver's stand, but maybe not.

Hope that helps! :D

[rc addict]

Nice Maxx man. Makes me want to get one again. Very clean, very nice.

Anyways...according to Novak's site...the gearing is what's causing the problem. Here's a link (http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/hvMaxx_gearing_addendum.pdf) to a downloadable PDF with suggested gearing. Basically...I'd try the 14's (the stock pinions have 18 teeth) that you've got in your tool box, and you might look around for some a little lower, just depending on how your track is laid out.

About the tires...they're pretty much exactly the same size but with different sidewall heights. I don't believe you'd need to gear the truck differently if you switched the sets. Just run whichever you think works better on the track.

And as for the tranny...I'd probably leave it in second, especially with brushless power to pull you out of the corners, but again, it just depends on the track. If you're having a hard time making the tight corners, first gear might give you the extra punch to really rotate the truck, or it might just spin the tires uncontrollably and make the truck wheelie over. If it's an open track with a lot of high speed stuff, you'd probably never need first gear. If it's a real tight track with only one straight, you might consider using first gear in the infield, but second might work better. In the end, what matters is what you feel more comfortable with and what you put down faster, more consistent lap times with. I'd say experiment with your driving style and such and have a friend time your laps. Average out your times between the two driving styles and see which style is faster. You'll probably be able to tell from the driver's stand, but maybe not.

Hope that helps! :D

I really appreciate the complements man, I try to keep it as clean as I can after its done racing. I can order some machined 12 tooth pinions when I get the chance but as for now, Ill definitely switch over to the 14 tooth pinions. The 40 series are a little better on the track because of the reduced sidewall flex. As for the 1st and 2nd gear, Its a technical track with 1 straight and one large jump in the middle designed for buggies and stadium trucks, but the truck can handle it well. In first gear, I believe the truck decelerates a bit better and gets through turns nicer, but for the long straight, it is no good and will flip under power. In second it can manage the turns nicely and handle the straight, so I best leave it in second. To correct the tightness on turns, Im going to buy a spool from traxxas and put it in the rear so the truck can slide a bit through tight turns. I will eventually have a friend time me and try your idea. I appreciate your help, thanks alot, and I hope you once again get an E-Maxx because they really are the most fun, all purpose trucks I've seen around. (and they can be faster than nitro :D )

-With that note, you have definitely helped out

[rc addict]

hmm i also noticed that on the pdf link you gave me from novak, they dont include a 72T spur but they mentioned a 70T spur/12T pinion combo. Would it be the same thing if the spur were 72T, and the pinion 14? Its just moving two teeth from the pinion onto the spur, and that is the best setup I have; tell me what you think

-once again, thanks alot

[metalry101]

hmm i also noticed that on the pdf link you gave me from novak, they dont include a 72T spur but they mentioned a 70T spur/12T pinion combo. Would it be the same thing if the spur were 72T, and the pinion 14? Its just moving two teeth from the pinion onto the spur, and that is the best setup I have; tell me what you think

-once again, thanks alot
No...that won't be the same thing. The difference between the 70 that they list and the 72 that you run is basically nothing, so don't worry about that. The difference between 70/12 and 72/14 is substantial though. 70 and 72 is only two teeth, but that's 2 teeth on top of 70. That's one for every 35 teeth. Now two teeth on the 12 tooth, that's one for every 6. That's a huge difference.

Anyways...I'd try the 14's that you have and then go from there. See how hot the truck runs and how much power you've got, and then go from there.

[rc addict]

holy **** my truck is in big trouble...it was having cogging problems earlier today (i think it has to do with the radio...any hints? i just switch to an airtronics mx3 fm from the stock, and a used fm receiver) but as i was done testing it out, the set crew on the 14t pinion popped off inside my spur cover and got stuck in the gears and the truck stopped dead. I left it at my friends track next door and he said he was taking it to the hobby shop tonight...can you help me solve my radio problem? what could cause cogging? it seems that when i increase the throttle trim to the point where the truck moves forward on its own, the problem ceases. but if the truck is at dead stop, it will budge forward in increments and make a horrible noise, and only take off occasionally with extremely smooth thottle.

[GT Freak]

so, if i switched to a 70t spur, will my truck be any faster :confused:

[tadium54]

isnt the stock 66 or 68t? if you went up on the spur, youd increase its acceleration

[rc addict]

in a sense, it will be faster, acceleration wise...just not maximum velocity wise

[GT Freak]

well, got almost everything im needing. now all i need is a evx, then its "GOOD TO GO!" :cool:

[GT Freak]

well, heres my choices for a body so far:
L:hpi stang body :cool:
C:chevy silverado :D
R: old 65 mustang body :o (not sure who made it, but im thinking PARMA)

[GT Freak]

well, got the rear bumper,mount,and batt hold downs today. now all i need is the gear cover. then its evx time :)

[tadium54]

go with the hp stang- be diffrent

[metalry101]

I vote for the Chevy. I'm not a fan of car bodies on truck chassis'. Plus it's thicker and designed to take the abuse a monster truck can dish out. The others aren't.

[GT Freak]

ive heard theres a chevy silverado for the maxx..... true or false :confused:

[metalry101]

That there is. Part number PRO315900

[tadium54]

damn ry, youre always right!

[GT Freak]

Well, tires should be here next week. then its just the gear cover and evx, and then its "street time" :wave: