E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[NitroCrackers]

just picked up a used emaxx for 290 =D other then the proline 40 series spinners and street tires, it is completely stock (and very clean)... oh, it does have LED lights on the front and rear, I will post pics of it later tonight or tommarrow. ^_^

[NitroCrackers]

Not the greatest pics in the world but they work...
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2535/forsale005ki6.jpg

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3386/forsale007qo7.jpg

next step is the novak 4.5HV or something more powerful, I just need to save for a little bit :roll2:

[jocktheglide165]

my hybrid Revo and Emaxx:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1756.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1755.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/rapunzel_1/100_1749.jpg

[hyperstang]

Hey Jock...

I want that man.....

What parts and wesite is needed for this truck.

Thanks

[metalry101]

Hey Jock...

I want that man.....

What parts and wesite is needed for this truck.

Thanks
http://www.gorillamaxx.com/

[GT Freak]

Awsome rims....

Where :confused:
how much :confused:

[hyperstang]

Bummers...

Just got word that the chassis will be in stock in about 2 weeks. Gives me time to look for a REVO roller now for the front and rear assemblies and rest of the stuff...

Anyone know anyone selling a REVO roller...LOL!!! :D

Race on!!!!

[GT Freak]

check this out...

http://www.gallimods.com/gallery/album01?page=2

[NitroCrackers]

nice e-revo jocktheglide165 :)

[tadium54]

lol wow. that revo is dialed

[GT Freak]

:wave: Well, got my gear cover today. so im down to my tires(on the way) and a esc of some sort. then its "cruzin time" :D

[GT Freak]

Well, got the tires today around 3:00pm. Heres a pic of them with a couple of body options...the mustang body i have another of in clear, NBP either.

[hyperstang]

Well..

After reading the article in RCcar action on the E Revo...man my mind is made up.

Going to get me a Gorillamaxx E REVO kit and BL system. Went to RC Monster and they have a complete kit. Kinda steep, but I now gotta work on the funds. Hope to get it soon...

Race on

[GT Freak]

heres a few new pic of my progress ...enjoy
Wheels: sport maxx done in red and trimmed in blue
Rear bumper has been "annodized" as well.
front doesnt look right, so ill be getting another rear for it.
Body is gonna be White with red and blue stripes, and a US flag on it!
Powered by stock motors,TO2400 batteries.

[GT Freak]

well, broke the raer bulkheads today...lol so now project "strret maxx" needs:
body posts
rear bulkheads
evx

any suggestions :confused:

update: got maxx1 back together, so its fun time again...:)

[SerpentKing101]

I race my E-Maxx in a parking lot. the Maxx is pretty much stock ; the only real performance upgrades are Powerstroke shocks, 40 series Velocity 6/Road Rages, and a RRP slipper (theres some blue rpm bling, but thats more for looks than anything). It is RWD.

I have the shocks set up on the innermost positon at the shock tower and outermost at the lower a-arms. There is no preload on the shocks. This is on all 4 corners.

The truck turns fine for the oval, but it pushes alot on on-power turning, almost like it was 4WD. It also likes to spin on off-power turning.

What I want it to do is have a much more balanced handling, so it doesnt handle so differently when im on or off the throttle.

[ChuckDeez]

should I sell my emaxx? if I happen to do so, how much would I expect from it on ebay?

[z-man280]

should I sell my emaxx? if I happen to do so, how much would I expect from it on ebay?
i know mdrevo is looking to trade a touring car and hpi mt4 rtr's for a e-maxx...might want to contact him.

[ChuckDeez]

what are good batteries that are under $40 for two?

[ChuckDeez]

i'm gonna go brushless. what do i need?

i want to stick with nimh.

[tadium54]

good and cheap batteries don't really exist. cheap? ya. good? ya. but never togehter. spend some cash on good ones. it will make a world of diffrence. if you sell your maxx, expect to get about half of what you paid for it

[z-man280]

go here:

http://www.all-battery.com/

a PAIR of 3500 NiMH for $35.99,...they work great and many people have had excellent results with them, myself included.

[tadium54]

okay, maybe i dont know everything. im just always floored when people buy the cheapest stuff and expect incredible results. do you see worlds drivers with the cheapest stuff? no. the majority of my packs are matched and are great. if you wanted a worlds competive car(say off road 1/10 truck to be simple), would you just take a tamiya blackfoot? its 1/10, off road and a truck. by that logic, it should be competive at worlds, but i think its safe to say that it wouldnt be the best choice

/end rant lol

[ChuckDeez]

good and cheap batteries don't really exist. cheap? ya. good? ya. but never togehter. spend some cash on good ones. it will make a world of diffrence. if you sell your maxx, expect to get about half of what you paid for it


half the price?! damn, I'll just keep it then. I'll only be getting back $25 then. :eek:

[tadium54]

ok if you bought it for that cheap, 100 bucks wouldnt be out of the question

[z-man280]

i'll give ya $125 for it, if RTR.

[maxd out]

Mike

[tadium54]

very nice

[maxd out]

Here is a couple more

[ToDaMaxx]

Hello,
I was on my lunch break and thought I would order a new cache of batteries for my HV-Maxx (BL 4.5). I am asking for advice from anyone who happens to be watching this board over the next hour or so. (Fingers Crossed) :)

I would like to have the strongest,longest lasting batteries, custom assembled in straight 7 cell setups... will probably order six (7 cell) packs.

ANy suggestions?? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks so much!!

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx :)

[z-man280]

i'll try here, sorry guys, i got no response over in the wanted section- anyone have some stock titans they want to get rid of?

[guver]

Hello,
I was on my lunch break and thought I would order a new cache of batteries for my HV-Maxx (BL 4.5). I am asking for advice from anyone who happens to be watching this board over the next hour or so. (Fingers Crossed) :)

I would like to have the strongest,longest lasting batteries, custom assembled in straight 7 cell setups... will probably order six (7 cell) packs.

ANy suggestions?? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks so much!!

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx :)

Any of the reputable matchers can fix you up with the strongest long lasting 4200-4300 batts in 7 cell flats.

[tadium54]

yeah. smc is very good i hear at doing it

[ChuckDeez]

Can my stock Novak EVX handle 16.8 volts? I'm afraid of burning up my stock Novak EVX. :(

[guver]

Most evx will cut out at 22.1- 24 volts.

[Duster_360]

I've just gotten an Emaxx that came with 7 cell packs. I've seen where the prev owner running them had it thermal on him. I'm adding the Novak fan (its a lot hotter here than where it used to be) to help, but is there anything else I need to be worried about?

The packs are nearly new and I'd like to run them rather than getting a pr of 7.2s. Thanks

[tadium54]

16.8 is 14 cells. as long as you dont go to diffrent motors, the evx will be fine. i run mine on dual 7 cell packs all day long and never had a problem. duster- try gearing down for a bit and see where that gets you.

[Duster_360]

Thanks - appreciate the info. I have it completely apart right now - going over everything, cleaning it up and replacing the phillips heads with high strength alloy steel socket heads (Tony's). There's were a lot of bent screws. Changed to RPM bulkheads and added a wheelie bar - this one has done so many wheelies, it shaved the rear alum bumper noticeably - it was not a stock bumper - 2 pieces of alum rod. Freshened up the slipper - cleaned and replaced pegs adding the other 6 to run 12. Will be getting a new Atomik shell, the stocker is pretty much toast.

I'll have it back together just about when my TH order shows up with the Novak fan kit. I ordered a set of 17t pinions too. I am suprised at how much the stock chevron tires and wheel weight on this, I'm used to running SportTrax ties on SportMax wheels. Must be a full pound difference. Looking forward to that 1st run!!

[GT Freak]

hey maxx'd, how can run that, its too pretty for the dirt.

[maxd out]

MMM She is a sweet ride ,But hey you have got to race them,I have 3 hybrid "E's my extream chassis "E" has had the most wins with a state championship in 05.

[ChuckDeez]

Do I have the widemaxx?

if not, should I get it?

http://www.one18th.com/watermark.php?pic=aqzt.jpg&type=gallery

[ChuckDeez]

I'm having a difficult time plugging these batteries into my esc. As you can see in the picture is how I setup my batteries. Did i placed them in properly?

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0671.jpg

[z-man280]

turn em around!!

them boys ship fast, dont they????? :D

just spin them around Chuck, should fit ok. How did they charge??


Ron

[ChuckDeez]

turn em around!!

them boys ship fast, dont they????? :D

just spin them around Chuck, should fit ok. How did they charge??


Ron


I havn't charged them because I don't know if my charger is for NICD or NIMH.

If i turn them around, won't the fall off of the chassis?

[z-man280]

they sure shouldnt!! its just the 7th cell going to the opposite end, and to the outside. your battery bars will hold them in. What kind of charger ya got?

[tadium54]

no, they would be subject to damage from a good rollover. best bet? get longer wires or make an adapter for the evx with longer wires. also you could consider resoldering the batteries with better connectors

[ChuckDeez]

no, they would be subject to damage from a good rollover. best bet? get longer wires or make an adapter for the evx with longer wires. also you could consider resoldering the batteries with better connectors


yeah, thats what I was thinking. yeah, I was going to extend the wires when I put the dean's on. I was thinking of just getting the hump pack and get the gorilla battery strap so i dont have to worry anymore about the battery falling off.

[guver]

For weight distribution the packs are in a good way to keep the weight back and closer to center. You should be able to make the leads come out the other end of the pack (rear)

[Duster_360]

My 7 cell pacs are from Maxxamps and the wires are out the end with the 7th cell, no prob connecting. I am going to run mine like you showed a few pics back.

[ChuckDeez]

I'm going to buy the widemaxx when I have the money. I was wondering if I can use the original axles with the widemaxx. could i?

[GT Freak]

sure could IF u cut them down a bit.... :o

[z-man280]

sure could IF u cut them down a bit.... :o
um, wouldnt that be the opposite?? going from a stock width maxx to a wide maxx..the axles should have to be longer.

[mdrevo]

hey chuck deez...is your maxx rtr? if so i'll give you 2 tc's plus a hpi mt all rtr with extras

[tadium54]

chuck-the stock drive shafts wont work, youll need new ones

[SerpentKing101]

I think only the center shafts will fit no problem.

the front and rears would fit if you had the the yokes from a widemaxx.

[ChuckDeez]

yeah thanks guys.

and to the guy that offered me whatever, I'm not selling it anymore.

[metalry101]

I'm going to buy the widemaxx when I have the money. I was wondering if I can use the original axles with the widemaxx. could i?
Yes, they're plenty long enough. They're not as strong as the newer ones...but they will work fine.

[ChuckDeez]

yeah, I noticed that when I push up or down, it extends a bit. I'm not sure if it can do more.

[metalry101]

It'll be fine. I had an original E-Maxx that I ran with the Pro-Line Maxx Performance Suspension Kit (now discontinued) for years. I eventually swapped to CVD's, but the stock sliders are plenty long enough to work with the extended arms.

[ChuckDeez]

It'll be fine. I had an original E-Maxx that I ran with the Pro-Line Maxx Performance Suspension Kit (now discontinued) for years. I eventually swapped to CVD's, but the stock sliders are plenty long enough to work with the extended arms.


can you please tell me what else is different between the original emaxx and new emaxx?

I want to swap parts to make it the new emaxx.

[metalry101]

Arms, towers, driveshafts (from diff to wheel), turnbuckles. That might be it...can't remember.

[ChuckDeez]

how about electronic wise?

how is the original esc like?

[metalry101]

The way early ESC (VX-12 I think it was) was recalled and replaced with the EVX, which as far as I know has been unchanged since its introduction.

[z-man280]

yup,... the vx-12 was only set for 12 cells as well, i beleive. the EVX had teething problems as well, i think, but they got it worked out.

i am having deja vu.....

[guver]

Lipos just got affordable (for me anyways) Maxamps has subC size 3000 cells for $12 each. 15C cells and are the same dimensions as a subC. Now is a good time to convert 1/10 scale e-maxx and others.

[ChuckDeez]

yup,... the vx-12 was only set for 12 cells as well, i beleive. the EVX had teething problems as well, i think, but they got it worked out.

i am having deja vu.....


what do you mean teething problems?

[z-man280]

if memory serves me, novak had some problems with the evx, and sent out replacements..very early models..not sure tho..maybe it was to replace the vx-12,..but it seemed like there was a re-call.

[z-man280]

heres a good little tid-bit of info for ya chuck on running 7 cells...

http://www.traxxas.com/support/index.php?action=artikel&cat=35&id=280

[ChuckDeez]

okay, I got it done. Now I have to try it out!!!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0708.jpg

[ChuckDeez]

okay, I ran into a problem. Once I plugged in my batteries, my servos work but not my throttle. What can be the problem?

[guver]

Does the esc light light up when the throttle is pulled?

If so and if you have a dvm you can unhook the motor leads and test the voltage when pulling the throttle. If there's voltage at the leads then the problem is downstream like motors. If therer's no voltage then the problem is upstream like batts, connections,esc.

[ChuckDeez]

okay, I found out the problem. I had one of the wires to the esc to the batteries the opposite way when I connected them. red into black. So maybe there was internal damage?

This is how it looks like.

when I turn on the truck, it has a red light. When I hit the throttle, it goes blank.

[ChuckDeez]

if you look at the photo above in my previous post, you can see that the black wire is on the positive side. look at both the wires on the esc. can you see the problem?

would that cause internal damage?

[z-man280]

gimme a minute, i will post a wiring diagram for ya Chuck

[z-man280]

here ya go.....
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/PA040038Medium.jpg

[ChuckDeez]

thanks but i think i fried my esc. i have to try it again.

[z-man280]

oh man....i hope not!

[ChuckDeez]

I'm planning to sell it and buy a brand new one since I want the widemaxx. I was going to buy another evx, but I saw the difference and I rather sell the whole truck.

[z-man280]

well, what do you want for it? i know someone looking for a maxx truck. pm me if you'd like.

[ChuckDeez]

o yeah, how easy is it to fry an EVX esc? what do you have to do to fry it?

[guver]

I think your esc is ok, but the connectors have to be correct.

[z-man280]

as guver said ,theres a good chance your ok. just follow the diagram i posted.

[ChuckDeez]

If I accidently wired the red to the black and turned it on, would that mean its fried? I'd like to try again but I'm pretty sure my esc is dead. Or maybe its the motors?

[z-man280]

well, the EVX is not protected for reverse polarity, unless you wired the motors backwards..then you might be ok. if you wired the battery leads backwards,...that isnt going to be good. best thing to do, just try it, maybe you will get lucky. you got nothing to lose at this point but to wire it correct, and try it.

[ChuckDeez]

Okay, I have confirmed that my ESC is fried. Here are the following pictures for evidence.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0711.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0712.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0713.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0714.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0716.jpg

[ChuckDeez]

well, the EVX is not protected for reverse polarity, unless you wired the motors backwards..then you might be ok. if you wired the battery leads backwards,...that isnt going to be good. best thing to do, just try it, maybe you will get lucky. you got nothing to lose at this point but to wire it correct, and try it.


thats exactly what I did. :o

O well, like I said, I'm just going to sell it. maybe to someone that wants a non working emaxx.

[z-man280]

chuck, i think i might know who will take it as-is, if the price is right.. pm me with price.

[tadium54]

your motors will still be fine. it would take alot to fry those motors lol. try sending it back to novak

[ChuckDeez]

your motors will still be fine. it would take alot to fry those motors lol. try sending it back to novak


I already voided their warrenty. I cut their plugs off.

[mdrevo]

chuck....how much for the maxx pm me or zman

[tadium54]

they have a rewiring fee that they charge but it might be worth it to see if theyll take it

[ChuckDeez]

do you think I damaged my batteries too?

[mdrevo]

hey chuck my offer still stands...i'll take your problems

[ChuckDeez]

PM me.

So yeah, did I shortened my batteries too during that process?

[z-man280]

hey chuck my offer still stands...i'll take your problems
:eek: you're gonna get rid of that MT4???????? :( i wish i had the cash....that beast is nice.)

[ChuckDeez]

anyone?!?! can anyone tell me how to short your batteries?

Not that I want to, I want to know if i did.

[ChuckDeez]

Emaxx sold! was sold for $230 shipped.

[z-man280]

Emaxx sold! was sold for $230 shipped.
with a smoked ESC????? :eek: you did GOOD!!!!

your batteries are fine.

[ChuckDeez]

I though it was a great deal for the buyer.

[ChuckDeez]

Now I'm gonna go buy another one. :)

[ChuckDeez]

towerhobbies doesn't have anymore right now. Where can i buy?

also, will they ever make any changes? Like what they did to the stampede and the rustler?

[ToDaMaxx]

Any of the reputable matchers can fix you up with the strongest long lasting 4200-4300 batts in 7 cell flats.

Hey there Guver (and others :) ) !!

Thanks to you (and all) for the response on my battery question. I checked out the places mentioned as well as doing some thorough searches based on those responses, to find a place I can order from. I'm not having much luck and hope that someone will have the time to pass on some ideas again, while maybe being even more specific. I do greatly appreciate any and all suggestions as I will check each suggestion out. A quick reminder of the initial request, with an added one now. :wave: (I have been working on this E-Maxx for many months now off and on, and I have taken a TON of pictures along the way. I am currently making a huge gallery of the work and will link it here for anybody who would like to check it out. Reminder, this is my first RC and it is still a work in progress. :eek: :huh: :D :p )

Requesting specific info (and hopefully links on these two, hmmmm maybe more request... lol ) THANKS!!

(Note: Unless noted below, please do not consider cost when making suggestions.... (thats because I have already broken the Freakin' Bank as it is.... I might as well finish the project with quality stuff, LOL.))

* I need a place to get the BEST, LONGEST LASTING, and HIGHEST QUALITY batteries for this 4.5 HV Novak E-Maxx. What seems to be the "sticking point" is that I need the company to "create" the six packs of SEVEN BATTERIES in a FLAT SEVEN BATTERY PACK setup. Wow...thats alot to ask... thanks for any help....

* I also would like to ask for advice in regards to a great "radio" setup. I know my wording is wrong, but I mean the hand held controller I will use and any paraphernalia (receiver, sensors, servos,etc..) that would come with it in a complete "kit" or "setup." I do have a price limit on this one as I have seen some very high price setups out there. Any detailed suggestions will be greatly appreciated, and I hope to keep this "piece of the puzzle" below $500.

* Also, is there a way to use an extra (like 3rd) battery setup (2,3,4,5 cells?) to power the "extras" under the hood, like the servos, receiver, speed control, lights, anything....??

Sorry for the dumb questions. As I said before this is my first RC, but I absolutely love running on and working on it. Its a great learning process and is quite rewarding to see my project come together. Thanks for any help... links would be awesome really.. :)

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx

[guver]

I lost all my links, but the names of the matchers and suppliers are

pro-match
kmr
max-amps
cheapbatterypacks
SMC
Trinity
Kinetix
Battlepacks
Roboticpower

The racers probably know whats a good deal and who has the best numbers right now, but any of those suppliers can make a 7 cell flat pack if your dead set on Nimh batts.

sorry I can't help with links or the radio. A rx pack of small AA or AAA or 2/3 A batts can be used seperately to power servos, esc , ect.

[z-man280]

do you mean something like this???? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/RC8.jpg


www.all-battery.com has them for $19.99 /pc.

Ron :wave:

[tadium54]

or you can build you own batteries. a decent soldering iron is all you really need.as for a radio, do you want to keep the shifter? if so, the mx3 and i think xs3 are the only real options. the stock steering servo sucks-look for a servo with metal gears, bearings, and atleast 110 oz of torque.

[guver]

do you mean something like this???? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/RC8.jpg


www.all-battery.com has them for $19.99 /pc.

Ron :wave:


I think ToDa was wanting the best, the tenergy wouldn't come close. That style may fit the bill ok, but I had a simple side by side style in mind when I recommended the battery sellers / matchers.

[z-man280]

ahhhh, ok.

[ToDaMaxx]

Hello all!

Thanks to you all for your assistance. I AM watching, I promise. I will try to attach a picture of the type of setup that I think will go well with my carbon fiber Gorillamax chassis. The thing is, everywhere I look I find the packs to be in sets of 6 batteries not seven (in the highest end capacity/voltage/run time, etc...). When I find a pack of seven , none of them seem to be the higher end packs like 4200, 4300, top names, etc... The same goes when the website offers to "custom" make the pack for you.... as on those websites I have not seen the choice of 7 batteries in their design options.... uggghh.. Sorry for the newbie stuff you all...and thank you again for all of yalls input. BTW, if someone is able to provide the type of extra battery pack, like a receiver pack (?? is that what it is called ??) that I can get from the same source... and exactly what I need....I would be able to handle all of my battery needs in one shot from one top notch dealer.. THANKS AGAIN!!! :)

Now.... I just need to find a great radio setup :)

I am crossing my fingers in hopes to have this monster assembled and to have the battery power and radio setup overnighted (or something fast) to have it all in hand and work done by this weekend....

Many sincere thanks to those who have responded to my trivial and newbie questions. Maybe one day, a long time from now :) , I will be experienced enough in this to lend a hand to the newbies. :)

In case my picture did not attach as I tried to make it do, I think what I am looking for is a "standard side by side setup" (just with 7 cells.) I got this terminology from:

http://www.promatchracing.com/

(I just need them in 7 cell packs with the best batteries they offer right now) And just FYI, I cannot solder for the life of me. I have tried a couple of times and when I think of the cost of these batteries I am wanting, I think it would be nothing short of a crime for me to try to solder them together. Even if I got them connected (unlikely), it would be ugly and undoubtably my soldering "skills" would ruin the great qualities of the batteries that were purchased. :confused: :eek:

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx

[tadium54]

toda- where are you? maybe you can find an lhs that will either help you for free or do it for a small cost

oh ya, you wont need a rx pack. the esc that comes with it(actually most escs these days) have a bec, which eliminates the need for an external pack. you could theoretically use one by unplugging the positive wire(i think) of the esc to rx lead, but the result would be negligible. focus your cash on a good servo and good batteries- this truck will eat them all day long lol. dont believe me? heres how many batteries I have, and they all get used on a day of bashing. soldering isnt too hard, again, just get a good iron, some patience and time and youre off to the races(so to speak)

[ToDaMaxx]

toda- where are you? maybe you can find an lhs that will either help you for free or do it for a small cost

I am in Clayton, NC. I have a few "decent" lhs's semi-close to here (closest one that is of any real assistance is about 35 minutes away.) BUT, they do not have the products needed or a suffiecient stock nor do they have any people that can (or will) do the work for you. You never know who will be working...but other than a couple of pretty smart 10th graders (if u catch them on that one day a week for those few hours they work.) Real nice people, but the store does not much cater to the electric stuff very much and the lack of knowledge about same is kind of tough. Traxxas website points me to several spots, and I have driven to every one (that I am aware of) within 75 miles of here. If Traxxas knew the true shape of the majority of these local places, they would not even list them on the website. If you cannot pick up standard plastic bulkheads for an E-Maxx from regular stock...I think that is kind of bad. It is bad ...I hate to say that too. Nice people.... but I have no luck.

Now, I can drive up 95 north 220+ miles to Tower Hobbies (lol, or shop online as I so often do.) The problem with that is that they too will be soldering together battery cells that they had to order for me or that I had to send to them..(if they will even do it-I have shopped there in person MANY times however - love them too!!) I have actually driven up there to do some shopping...but the fine print in that story is that I have family nearby that location in VA. :) Now the only question is... was it the family, or my absolute love for running and building/"hopping up" my E-Maxx that pushed me to drive out of state.... :D

It seems to me that the manufacturer would probably do the best soldering job for the battery which would ultimately lead to the best performing battery packs I can buy (for the type of batteries I am looking for..non-lipo I mean). Another story I know... but I am choosing to not go "Lipo" (that rhymed BTW) because I am a "basher" at heart who just wanted to have a pimped out E-maxx to destroy. :) I have heard that if you bash kind of hard, and I DO, I REALLY REALLY DO, Lipos may not be the way to go.

(I may not have mentioned to yall in this series of posts my extraordinarily high level of RC driving skills. :huh: There is a reason for that though. Thats because I dont have ANY skills in driving this thing. I drive, I wreck. But...I love it!!!! ROFL :cool: )

Anyways.... thanks again to you all...really.

And if anybody can assist me (the annoying newbie) in this quest by maybe, just for a moment, pretending that you are shopping for yourself for the batteries as described, the complete radio system and that extra battery thing (receiver pack or something???) without money playing ANY roll in it (just a hunt for the best stuff for yourself..exception...for the Radio setup----> around $500 or so Please,lol) and then post those links or info here for me to follow to the proverbial "T"... I would so very much be in your debt.

And when I am able to stop pestering you guys/girls about these items, next up will be converting my Pimped out E-Maxx :cool: ... to a dual HV 4.5 BL Novak setup... hahahaha Wooooooot Wooooooot !!!!!!!!!!

You all ROCK!

Thanks..for real.

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx

[tadium54]

again, consider what you want- shift on the fly or lock in 2nd? if you want to keep it locked in 2nd, then the radio options are pretty wide open. if you want to shift on the fly still, then the mx3 and xs3 are your only real options. servo? go for a hitec 5945, 5645, airtronics 94358, jr 8850(i think thats the servo). any of those are monsters in the torque department

why do you want a rx pack?

[guver]

PMR and SMC should both be able to supply 7 cell side by side packs with the highest numbers in stock. I'd agree with allowing them to do the soldering, they'll do a nice consistant job on all packs. In either case it would be a nice order for them.

[ChuckDeez]

I'm going to wait until christmas to get another E-maxx. :(

[GT Freak]

i have 4 packs 2 rs and 2 TO. thats enough for my maxx's appatite! :D

[tadium54]

and the worst part? ive added even more to the mix lol. just need a voltage cutoff device with adjustable voltage

[woodymaxx]

do you mean something like this???? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/RC8.jpg


www.all-battery.com has them for $19.99 /pc.

Ron :wave:

Are these batterys any good ? For like just basic bashing?

[guver]

Not really for an e-maxx. They'll have nice power when new, but degrade prety quickly. The difference may also be in the driving. If you drive in second WOT a lot they degrade, if just toodling arouind woods and such in first gear they'll be fine.

[Duster_360]

I finally got to drive mine for 1st time this weekend and 1st gear is a joke!! Can flip it onto its back without hardly trying. I run mostly on a thick carpet of grass thats kept well trimmed and its high traction. Wheelie city with those 7 cell pacs. I really didn't pay attention to time, but it seemed I got 7 or 8 min of real good power time before I noticed things backing off a little. Would still run, but just not with quite the snap it had when the batts were fresh.

I did note a very small amount of white smoke coming out of motor vents. It wasn't much, just a wisp or two, but enough to notice. Is this typical? This is a used Emaxx and I didn't really do anything for or to the motors. Was there something I should have done for maintence before I ran it?

I was rewarded with the familiar clicking of a diff that I know well - prob the rear and have ordered set of alum diff cases, new spyders, alum cups and modded R & P with the 3mm screws - plenty of shims left from building Tmaxx diffs. Would imagine next thing to cause probs will be drive shafts. I'm using an RD Logics full set on my Tmaxx - has anybody come up with a better set?

It was really weird running it 'cause I'm so used to the noise of my nitros, lol!! After run maintenance was also diff - blew it off with compressor and was finished - with Tmaxx, thats just getting started, lol!

[tadium54]

the motors shouldnt really smoke at all. they should just be hot to the touch- if theyre smoking im guessing that your either ovegeared, have something lodged in your motors or your mesh is a bit too tight

[Duster_360]

Def warm, was going to temp them but right as I was coming back inside, was distracted by that big wreck at the end of the Talledega Nascar race. They were hot to touch, somewhere above 140, but not hot enough to burn at a touch (< 180), esc was no where near that hot (Novak fan) and batts were warm, but prob not more than 120. Running with no shell, ambient was about 90F. I've run a lot of 18th elec and have developed pretty good feel for temp levels.

I've checked everything - mesh seems fine, standard gearing 18/66, nothing is binding, rolls fairly free - just drive train drag. Since one diff started clicking, there may be some added drag there. Believe me, if I hadn't been really looking, I would've never noticed it smoking as slight as it was. I have no idea how hard or how much this has been run, but from the wear I've seen, I'm guessing its been run a lot and fairly hard. It'll be running new diffs next time it goes out.

Thanks for the suggestions!

[tadium54]

or you can try new motors. if your gearing is stock and theres no binding, then maybe theyre just old. ive smoked motors before, and it happens. lol

[GT Freak]

my maxx is stock, and i like it. but i have another im having ideas about:

street rod
slow roller/crawler type

is it possible to change the pinions to make it slower?? how slow can i make it?

[tadium54]

you could probaly bring it down to 10 or so i would think, with the smallest pinnion

[Just Gundam]

And also use the largest spur gear you can find.

[Duster_360]

Anyone looking to build set of better, stronger Emaxx (or Tmaxx) diffs, Greater Assembly RC is having a sale on a set of their 7075-T6 alum diff cases, complete with alum diff collars and shim kits for $75. Sale continues thru the end of Oct.

I got mine today and the fit and finish are typical GA - first rate. They are going to look awesome fitted to the set of GA 7075-T6 bulks I have sitting around after upgrading my SM to VBS.

[tadium54]

alum bulks, alum skids and titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles should come stock from the factory imo. after that, there wasnt too much else that ever really broke on mine

[Smib]

I would rather keep the plastic bulks as a break-away point. I know they are weak but that's in the design, so aluminum ones could bend(mine did). Also, brok shock tower guarantee bent shocks, there is hope with the bulks. Aluminum skids are a waste of money, my buddy had them and they bent like nothing while bashing. I never even bothered, went right to titanium, and he quickly did the same. I do agree however, that these should be the stock starting point. I just wish I had the money to get mine running, but I refuse to use any chassis other then my own custom design, which is taking a long time and lots of money, so I stubborned myself out of bashing. :rolleyes:

[tadium54]

i always hear people complain about bending their alum. skids. ive yet to bend my dynamite ones(and my ballistic stupidity ones on my old truck never bent). never broke a shock tower or bent a shock tho

[Duster_360]

I've been impressed with the RPM skid set than my used Emaxx came with, they have taken quite a beating and are still in good shape. I'm going to do some more beating on them myself. They tie the chassis together surprisingly well.

I'm used to running TI skids so this was a pleasant surprise.

Your Dynamite skids must be 7075, most are not. I learned that with my first Tmaxx, 6061 or lower grade alum just doesn't get it for skids (unless you never hit anything).

[z-man280]

wheelie bars...ya need wheelie bars.


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/P1010002Medium.jpg

[Just Gundam]

I have bent a total 3 aluminium skids, 2 fronts and 1 rear. Since then I seldom run into things. Tadium must have pretty good driving skills :D .

And come to think of it, mine haven't wheelie for a very long time, since the day it put on jumbomaxx tires.

Finally, my evx is half-dead in profile #1, forwards and brakes work but reverse is gone. Later I will try profile #3 and see if I can get any reverse... :( Anybody ever had the same problem?

[tadium54]

lol good driver? na. i doubt it. im still learning the new "limits" of my truck, as i just finished rebuilding it a while ago

[GT Freak]

question... are there any spurs out for the maxx that have ballz in them instead of pegs?? is there a advantage to this??

[tadium54]

i doubt it. you could probably use something around the size of diff balls if you wanted to. i dont see any real advantage or disadvantage of using them

[Duster_360]

Here's a how-to using diff balls. Tells you which ones to use -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/slipper-pegs/em-slipper-pegs.asp

I just run all 12 slipper pegs, less wear on the slipper plates. Eventually diff balls will cut grooves in the slipper plates.

[GT Freak]

YES!!! getting maxx2 up and back into roller form.. :D cant wait to start building. :)

[ChuckDeez]

I got my new Emaxx. w00t w00t!! I just need a male tamiya connector to charge the batteries.

[GT Freak]

ditch the tamiyas, go straight deans

[ChuckDeez]

ditch the tamiyas, go straight deans


i will after my EVX tamiya connector melts. :D

[GT Freak]

what is the measurement of a center skid?? im wanting to make one out of plexi, and need the size.

[z-man280]

[QUOTE=ChuckDeez]i will after my EVX tamiya connector melts. :D[/QUOTE

do your plugs ONE AT A TIME! remember what happened last time?

[Duster_360]

what is the measurement of a center skid?? im wanting to make one out of plexi, and need the size.


The trx alum center skid measures 2.4" x 2.9", hole are right in the corners, you could make it a little longer to cover more of the opening if you wanted.

[ChuckDeez]

[QUOTE=ChuckDeez]i will after my EVX tamiya connector melts. :D[/QUOTE

do your plugs ONE AT A TIME! remember what happened last time?


lol yeah. :(

guess what, it worked for the buyer. weird. :confused:

I think it was my connection on the batteries. :o

[ChuckDeez]

Not the best, but it is good for now. I'll post up better ones in the future.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0723.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0728.jpg

[GT Freak]

The trx alum center skid measures 2.4" x 2.9", hole are right in the corners, you could make it a little longer to cover more of the opening if you wanted.

thanks, now i am making a see-thry skid for my "street maxx" :wave:

[ChuckDeez]

check this out. I torn this part, do you guys have any clue how to replace it? I know its replaceable, but is it costly? as long as its under $10.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0729.jpg

[guver]

It's a diff yoke, theres a allen screw holdfing it onto the diff. I think I drilled a small access hole in the skid plate to use a wrench. It's not much money.

[ChuckDeez]

thanks, i found it on towerhobbies, and its about $5 for both sides. I'm going to go to my LHS and pick one up.

[ChuckDeez]

will the 3.3 output yokes fit on the Emaxx?

[z-man280]

couldnt help but notice, yours has marine motors in it too:D

[ChuckDeez]

couldnt help but notice, yours has marine motors in it too:D

is that bad?

[z-man280]

no, not at all. funny story, i stripped out one of the motor screws in mine, hobby shop had a pair of marine motors on special order.the guy cancelled, so i got them at a huge discount. noticed the only difference was the opended endbell...motors run much cooler, and i think they perform better. i love mine!

[ChuckDeez]

really? it says monster 550 on mines. I guess its a revamped one.

[z-man280]

yuppers....

550 monster in the middle, titan marines mounted...
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/PA190027Medium.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/PA190028Medium.jpg

[metalry101]

I believe newer E-Maxxes are getting the same endbell and whatnot. I could be wrong...but I swear I've sold some replacement motors (non-marine) that had the same endbell as the marine motors.

[ChuckDeez]

holy crap, I do have the marines. wait, i'm going to take pictures right now.

[ChuckDeez]

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0730.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0731.jpg

weird huh?

[z-man280]

I believe newer E-Maxxes are getting the same endbell and whatnot. I could be wrong...but I swear I've sold some replacement motors (non-marine) that had the same endbell as the marine motors.


thanks for the info Ryan...

they must be, because we have the same endbell

[Duster_360]

That's interesting, Either mine is not as old as I was lead to believe, or the current motors are not originals. Glad I have the vented endbells. Every little bit helps!

[ChuckDeez]

i'm thinking of buying this. what do you guys think?

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCM_G2R_ROLLER&cat=11

[GT Freak]

so, whats the difference in motors :confused:

[z-man280]

so, whats the difference in motors :confused:
as near as i can tell, nothing, just that the older versions in the truck used a sealed endbell, prolly for dirt prevention.

[ChuckDeez]

hey Ron, see, this is the guy I sold it to. he is selling it now and the ESC is still functional. I could have sold it to MDREVO, but he didn't want to take the bullet.

http://cgi.ebay.com/TRAXXAS-E-MAXX-RTR_W0QQitemZ320040412243QQihZ011QQcategoryZ44029Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[woodymaxx]

do you guys think these might be anygood? http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=637784&pgid=superlisting&type=car&manufacturer=4&model=21

[guver]

Page points to a lot of different cells, the top ones should be fine. the 3600+

[woodymaxx]

Ya I just wounderd if they would be a decent battery because some sites sell junk

[z-man280]

do you guys think these might be anygood? http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=637784&pgid=superlisting&type=car&manufacturer=4&model=21


woddy, heres the hook-up for ya...

http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=413

[GT Freak]

nice find. are they as good as RS 3300 packs tho :confused:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2147160

[z-man280]

well, i compare them with the gp3300's at radio shack. i like mine alot, have steered many people that way, and all of them had great luck.

[GT Freak]

:D home made...and liking the see-thru view :cool:

[tadium54]

plexi? i think it'll be too brittle and it will break after some abuse

[z-man280]

you dont really have any flex there tho...and if it hits hard enough to break that, chances are other things are hurt too

[GT Freak]

abuse?? NOT!

Running this one onroad in a parking lot...and no it aint no shelf queen...its a runner. :D

[tadium54]

oh its a shelf queen? thats a diffrent story then lol

[woodymaxx]

Hey so what are some of the pros and cons to the hv maxx 4.5 vs. the 6.5? I am assuming the 6.5 has better run times but is it worth it to get the 4.5 for the extra power? What are some of the run times people have had with either system? thanks

[Emaxx guy]

well, i compare them with the gp3300's at radio shack. i like mine alot, have steered many people that way, and all of them had great luck.

Any experience with thier 3500 or 3800s? Mighty tempting.

[GT Freak]

just got my maxx parts today.. YES! now MAXX STANG is back to roller status. :D

[z-man280]

Any experience with thier 3500 or 3800s? Mighty tempting.
got a pair of the 3500's love em to death...awesome packs...you wont be disappointed. For your viewing pleasure, my ( sort of) stock maxx on 3300's...

( had to drive and hold my digital cam, sorry :( still, love the roosters AND wheelie!)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/th_PA250003.jpg (http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/?action=view&current=PA250003.flv)

[GT Freak]

where can i get a set at of these 3500's :confused:

[Emaxx guy]

where can i get a set at of these 3500's :confused:


http://stores.ebay.com/All-Battery-Direct or

http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=157

[GT Freak]

:eek: 2 packs + a charger for $50.00, nice.

As for the maxx, had to go with a different body, as that stang was too W I D E for it. Using a parma '70 stang body.

[z-man280]

did i not tell ya guys that place rocked!!!????? i have a pair of the batteries from all-battery, and they are sick!

[GT Freak]

wel, found the rear axels are twisting...gggrrrrr. time to upgrade AGAIN! :mad: :( :) guess ill go with these:


also, found a interesting article, check THIS out:
http://www.rccrawler.com/evx.htm

[GT Freak]

well, here he is. bow to the king: "MAXX STANG" now to find a EVX!

[ChuckDeez]

can the REVO proline crowd pleazer 2.0 body fit on an Emaxx?

[XXWoodmanXX]

What do you guys think about the HGI alloy A-arms for the Maxx? I'm thinking of getting some. Are they "rugged" for some bashing(no jumping)? Thanks :)

[green dragon]

:wave: i dont know if im in the right area i have owned a EMAXX for 3 months and the titan 550 motors are fun and all but its time to up grade what kind of motors do u recamend that arnt hundreds of dollers because i need 2 of them my sec question is i need some 23mm hex locking nuts for my 40 series rims i bought weres a good place to get them i herd i need atapers maybe and were would i find those if thats what need

[Emaxx guy]

:wave: i dont know if im in the right area i have owned a EMAXX for 3 months and the titan 550 motors are fun and all but its time to up grade what kind of motors do u recamend that arnt hundreds of dollers because i need 2 of them

I've been thinking of giving this set up a try.

http://home.comcast.net/~milemarkers/DualDeWALTConversion-DualDeWALTConversion.html

I know some people use and like S-600s though (might try that too :D ).

[woodymaxx]

Hey so what are some of the pros and cons to the hv maxx 4.5 vs. the 6.5? I am assuming the 6.5 has better run times but is it worth it to get the 4.5 for the extra power? What are some of the run times people have had with either system? thanks

[Adanmtxt1]

Alright, more basic than that ^^^, what is the hot set up these days: the Hacker bl motors, the Novak HV Maxx setup, or some other package?

[Emaxx guy]

Has anyone used Revo axle carriers on thier Emaxx? Any benefits?

[ChuckDeez]

can the REVO proline crowd pleazer 2.0 body fit on an Emaxx?


someone answer this before I purchase it!!

[XXWoodmanXX]

someone answer this before I purchase it!!

According to ProLine's site, it states that the body (Part#3186-00) is ideal for:
- MGT
- TNX
- LST
- Genesis

As for the Emaxx, I'd say that it will fit fine, provided you MIGHT have to remove the body rest bar that sits atop the body posts......they might be in the way? *shrugs*

[Adanmtxt1]

In general, you can fit most bodies to most applications. The Crowd Pleazer body should be close enough to E-maxx proportions that it will fit with minor alterations.

[Duster_360]

The 3186 CP2 shell is a way bigger shell than the Tmaxx or Emaxx shell. I have both the 3186 and the 3144 CP for the Tmaxx - this is the same style shell as the 3186. The 3186 easily swallows the 3144 with plenty of room to spare.

I'm sure it can be made to fit, but it'll look funny cause its basically an 8th size shell and not a 10th. You may want to consider 3144.

TNX is a really big rc.

[ChuckDeez]

after I played with my emaxx today, I went to go charge the batteries which are radioshacks GP3300. The first batteries finished off with 904mah. The other battery finished off 3300. I don't get it? did my EVX shorted out?

[guver]

The first one either wasn't used all the way or didn't charge all the way. If the first ones were a set then I'd say they are full. If it is part of a set then I'd say charge malfuntion.

[ChuckDeez]

I finally got my wheelie bar!!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0083.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0082.jpg

On the wheels of the wheelie bar, I put over Mini-z tires. lol

[ChuckDeez]

I also need to buy shock oil. My suspension is droopy. What do you guys reccommend for shock oil? what weight? let me know! thanks in advance!

[z-man280]

chuck, my batteries show wierd readings like that, but, there is almost NO fluctuation in run time.could be one of those things......

[ChuckDeez]

chuck, my batteries show wierd readings like that, but, there is almost NO fluctuation in run time.could be one of those things......


I did experience a short run time before the charge. It slowed down tremendously after 10 minutes. I know for a fact I can reach 30mins with the setup i'm using. But now I don't see anymore problems. weird huh? :confused:

[Duster_360]

I also need to buy shock oil. My suspension is droopy. What do you guys reccommend for shock oil? what weight? let me know! thanks in advance!

I'm using 35wt trinity in mine, seems to be good for bashing. I'm running a red spring (stock) and a trinity black spring (hvy) at each corner. I'f you're still running both reds, may want to try 40wt to slow compresion down a little more.

If suspension is droopy - buy some stiffer springs too, at least one heavier spring for each corner.

[cooleocool]

I'll share a picture or two...

This was before my 3.8" wheel mod up at the cottage:
http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/6245/emaxxapril5200600112qn.jpg

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/7777/emaxxapril5200600332fe.jpg

http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2649/emaxxapril5200600449my.jpg

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/8162/emaxxapril52006005553mx.jpg

Here she is as she sits today down here at this house:
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/600/emaxxmay12200630xy.jpg

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/7/emaxxmay12200621ck.jpg

http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/4788/emaxxmay12200618wy.jpg

Here she is with my Villain and my trailer:
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8388/emaxxandvillainoctober62006003td3.jpg

[metalry101]

cooleocool~
Damn good looking rig you've got there. I dig the body...looks great on the truck!

[cooleocool]

Thanks! I get that a lot :). I wish I had some pictures of it at the cottage with those new wheels (note my custom 3.8" Mashers). I like the rocks with the water in the background.

When I first got that body, I had it mounted too high. I straightened my front bumper and lowered it a bit. Much better... :cool:

I should dig up some action shots for you guys. I have a couple cool ones that I took on my race track...

Found 'em! All of my pictures are taken by me while driving one handed. My camera man got bad, so I started myself. Like I always say, if you want things done right you've got to do them yourself.:

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8968/emaxxaugust42006005dx0.jpg

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/9386/emaxxaugust42006006lm4.jpg

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/7149/emaxxaugust42006007po2.jpg

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/4545/emaxxaugust42006008rz0.jpg

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/6328/emaxxaugust42006012tl0.jpg

http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/2891/emaxxaugust42006013eq5.jpg

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2186/emaxxaugust42006014gj1.jpg

http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/3126/emaxxaugust42006015iq4.jpg

Those are just a hand full of the ones I have.
Here's another still:
http://img325.imageshack.us/img325/8142/emaxxaugust42006010pk0.jpg

[ChuckDeez]

I'm using 35wt trinity in mine, seems to be good for bashing. I'm running a red spring (stock) and a trinity black spring (hvy) at each corner. I'f you're still running both reds, may want to try 40wt to slow compresion down a little more.

If suspension is droopy - buy some stiffer springs too, at least one heavier spring for each corner.

how many bottles of 2oz should I buy? I'm filling all 8 shocks.

[tadium54]

1 should be all you need. look for my proof on page 63 if you want

[SerpentKing101]

about the Revo CP 2.0 body question, if you get the 2.5 version, it should look and fit quite nicely. The body post indentations wont line up, but it'll still look good.

the 3.3 version will fit, but WILL require some creative drilling of the holes and cutting of the wheelwells, since the wheelbase is about an inch too long.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/KeltosJonn/IMG_0089.jpg

This is a pic of my E-Maxx with the 3.3 Revo CP 2.0 body. The 2.5 will fit and look a heck of alot better.

[ChuckDeez]

about the Revo CP 2.0 body question, if you get the 2.5 version, it should look and fit quite nicely. The body post indentations wont line up, but it'll still look good.

the 3.3 version will fit, but WILL require some creative drilling of the holes and cutting of the wheelwells, since the wheelbase is about an inch too long.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/KeltosJonn/IMG_0089.jpg

This is a pic of my E-Maxx with the 3.3 Revo CP 2.0 body. The 2.5 will fit and look a heck of alot better.

that is hawt!! :eek:

[ChuckDeez]

I have a whining noise coming from the transmission and it happened recently. It sounds cool, but it maybe wearing out things faster. Do you guys have any idea what is causing the whining noise?

i was doing jumps until this happened. :o

[z-man280]

my "bronco".....sorry, dark out, so no outside shots...

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/PB060047Small.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/PB060049Small.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/z-man280/PB060048Small.jpg

[ChuckDeez]

nice truck and car. what is the civic using as a chassis?

[z-man280]

Hpi Rs4....

[thanghoang]

Hey guys...been out of the R/C hobby for about 2 years. I've got 2 7-cell gp3300 packs and I'd like to get some more. I see that batts are up to 4200 now. My problem is that I can't seem to find anybody selling 7 cell packs anymore. My old sites I used to go to were

ballisticbatteries.com, hypercells.com and fusionbatteries.com

All only sell 6 cell packs. I want the full 14.4 voltage that 7 cell packs give. Can you guys recommend some updated sites?

[z-man280]

sure! www.all-battery.com

[guver]

I think that any of those old site would sell 7 cells along with any of the other matchers. CBP and maxamps seeems to be popular now.

[Duster_360]

I got a pair of 7 cell pacs by Maxxamps with a used Emaxx I bought and they seem to be pretty good. They are their older 4000mah TQ cells. Same cells now are 4400. I was told these were new in Jan and they seem to be doing pretty good. Have no idea how many times they've been cycled, but from looks of truck, it was a lot. One pac is a touch weaker than the other - seems to have a cell that gets a little warmer than other cells in that pac, but other than that I'd consider buying from them if I wanted another set.

Look in their Emaxx batteries - 7 cell pacs are offered and they are wired right - wires on the end with 7th cell close to the evx. Seen other 7 cell pacs where wires were on the other end. I want the extra weight in rear, not the front.

I'm slowly converting over to side-by-side cause I'm impressed by what traying seems to do for a pac - my M18 IB1400 pacs are sbs and they are awesome as far as dish and charging. They seem to be so uniform - little diff in disch or amount they charge to - very consistent. Tray for sub c size is a lot more money than the tray I got for 2/3a cells.

Am I setting myself up to be diasppointed??

[thanghoang]

I think that any of those old site would sell 7 cells along with any of the other matchers. CBP and maxamps seeems to be popular now.
What's the link for CBP?

[guver]

http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=645967&pgid=superlisting&type=car&manufacturer=4&model=21

[ChuckDeez]

I know why my suspension was acting ugly and sqweeky. The axle connector connected to the arms is the problem. I used WD-40 and played with it until the balls ran smoothly.

[ChuckDeez]

I ran my truck today after opening up her transmission to see what was this noise. I cleaned it and there was no broken teeth so I went off again. I think one of my motors went out. It sparks where the opennings are. Where the fans are. Is that bad? if my motor burns out, will my ESC burn out?

[guver]

No, but the other motor will soon follow. They should wear out at about the same time. After running the truck feel both motors to see if they're equal temp.

some sparks are normal during acceleration.

[ChuckDeez]

yeah, but these are big sparks lol.

[Duster_360]

Im running 7cells and I noticed one motor had some white smoke coming out of it after I shut it down. It's a used Emaxx and I don't know how much its been run, but from the looks of it, I suspect its been run a lot.

Do motors start to smoke before they go or do I get the sparks that ChuckDeez is seeing next??

[cooleocool]

If the motor smoked, it's probably toast.

[rcaboveall]

Will this body fit on my Emaxx? I'm thinking it will since it says it will fit the Tmaxx: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGTE7&P=0

[z-man280]

yup, sure will.

[rcaboveall]

Anyone know where I can purchase the wheels and bars as a set (Part #5186 Rubber Tires Mounted on Red-Anodized Wheelie Bar Wheels (2)/ 5x8mm Ball Bearings (4)/ Axles (2)
Suggested retail price $19.95)

http://www.traxxas.com/products/electric/emaxx/trx_emaxx_accessories.htm

Or is there a better set of wheelie bars around? I'd like to have rubber wheels. The foam ones don't seem as durable.

[cooleocool]

Will this body fit on my Emaxx? I'm thinking it will since it says it will fit the Tmaxx: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGTE7&P=0I'd stay away from that body. Unless you will not run with it. It is made of very thin lexan from what I've been told and it doesn't hold up well.

[z-man280]

thats the same as our Bronco bodies Tom....

[cooleocool]

Not from what I've been told. The Bronco is pretty thing... I know someone who uses one on his custom cralwer. He said he can't believe how HPI made it so thin. I'll have to see what the thickness is...

[z-man280]

i just looked at the one i did,....its as thick as the stocker, which i thought was .060, its 0.040 for sure...seems pretty tough to me.

[cooleocool]

Odd... I'll talk to the other guy (razer from the Traxxas forums).

Here's where he talks about it:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=47224&sid=311

[z-man280]

hmmmmm. I know i jsut grabbed the bronco body, seemed good and thick. Maybe the Rubi is different.

[maxxmanxxx]

hey folks long time since i talked on this forum. well my maxx is doin awesome better than ever as a matter of fact i completed it sort of i have so far changed every part except the frame and transmission case other than that everything is replaced with integy aluminum suspension arms hub carriers diff boxes shock tower bulkheads and skid plates maxximizer diff gears and cups aluminum tranny gears from rc4wd rrp sliper clutch saineless screw kit novak brusheless futaba 2pl radio and a hitec 330 oz servo :D 40 series bedlock with moab tires lunsford titaniam ti rods pillow balls mip drives all around and finished off the suspension with proline shocks i also silly puttyed the rear diff and i think thats it for know i already have 3500.00 :eek: into it and theres only a couple more things i want to do to it like an aluminum frame and transmission case ialso want to get the knew novak 6.5 motor :D by the way does anyone know how to stop snaping the set pins in the top shaft gears i was thinking of having them welded to the shaft but then what if i have to take them off :confused: i dont no but im open to any suggestions any info will be greatly appreceated

[maxxmanxxx]

by the way anyone from PA in this forum

[maxd out]

Heat the shaft up & remove the split pin ,Reheat the shaft & replace the split pin for a small high speed drill bit ,cut the excess off with a dremel , this will make that top shaft bullet proof.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Hey, guys. I'm considering buying a E-Maxx. I have an RC10B3 But the problem is that I don't have a soft enough place to run it. I basicaly just have ledges and concrete and every time I land wrong things seem to break and it seems I'm placing orders for new parts every day and i'm getting REALLY annoyed. So basicaly, what does everyone thing of their e-maxxes? Are they really durable? Do you need to replace any parts right away from stock (like crappy motors, radio, whatever?). What would be the best place to buy one? I'm open to getting a used one in good condition. Anyone interested in selling theirs? Alrighty, so I'm open to any comments you guys may have. Thanks.

-Jeff

[tadium54]

id say bulkheads and skids are the first to go. if you get aluminum bulks, titanium hinge pins are a good idea. i love my e-maxx, but its from stock. id say mines durable. i might be interested in selling my parts truck. needs steering setup, tranny parts and an esc. has some aluminum on it already tho(skids and braces)

[ChuckDeez]

really, I have never broke my emaxx yet. I have been running it hard as I can and I never broked a part. I let it loose in a desert and had a blast! I did high jumps and landed on all fours(you have to know how to control it by gassing or braking). you should consider in getting one though, its a tough truck.

[cooleocool]

My first broken part was a rear turn buckle. It took a few years to break my first bulkhead. My sliders went pretty soon after I did the Pro-Line wide conversion.

Overall, it's a very durable truck IMO. Mine has been giving me some issues lately though. Maybe it's because it's so old... (I bought it new in the spring of '01).

[metalry101]

My E-Maxx held up great. I toasted sliders quite often until I put CVD's in it, but I can take the blame for that since the truck ran all but about 3 packs of it's life with me equipped with a spool.

Other than that...I toasted quite a few motors (it was too slow for me, so I geared it up) and a few EVX's (they don't play well with water, or snow). Structurally, the Maxx series is known for being brittle crap compared with other monster trucks. Luckily, this is mostly on the nitro side of things. The E-Maxx shares the same design, but since it's considerably slower than the T-Maxx, it just flat out doesn't hit things nearly as hard, so it actually holds up really well if you can drive. If you hit every curb and parked car in sight, even a Savage is going to break, but if you just rally it around and cartwheel it and whatnot without running it into large, fixed objects, it'll hold up very, very well.

[ChuckDeez]

My first broken part was a rear turn buckle. It took a few years to break my first bulkhead. My sliders went pretty soon after I did the Pro-Line wide conversion.

Overall, it's a very durable truck IMO. Mine has been giving me some issues lately though. Maybe it's because it's so old... (I bought it new in the spring of '01).
maybe change your bearings or tear it down and clean it again. I hear weird noises in mines and I can't pin point it. I thought it would be my transmission, but when I opened it, it was clean.

[cooleocool]

I tear it down and clean it and everything at least twice a year. That doesn't count all of the partial tear downs I do when I feel like working on it. My problems are more or less from things that have been up-graded and such. I twisted axles and went with CVDs. Then I wrecking idlers in the tranny. Now, my MIP CVD's are bent (most of them), the center MIP's never stop loosing the pin no matter what I do to "bullet proof them," and the normal parts breakage on top of that. It seemed to have hit me all at once. I'm slowly working it out. I have quite a few new parts on it such as the diffs and such. I'll be building a scratch built tranny here soon. I plan to add Team Blue Star bearings for the time being and will go with 3.3 Maxx axles as soon as I can get the money. I need new motors (I go thought about a pair a year) too. Just things like that.

I mean, it's a super truck! I do not regret for one second buying it. Especially taking into account all the fun I've had with it over the years! Lately, it seems like the odds are against me and I just cannot keep it going long enough to enjoy it. That is mainly due to the lack of RC funds because of the fact that college is rather expensive.

[ChuckDeez]

true, I'm in the middle of college right now and it is quite expensive. As for the 3.3 maxx axles, can you really add those on to the emaxx!!?! I'd be glad to switch over to the REvo spec driveshafts. The sliders that are on are weak and can twist easily. Once I snap one, I will most likely change over to the 3.3 maxx driveshafts if it works.

[cooleocool]

Yes, they'll work. You'll need the 3.3 knuckles and turnbuckles as well.

[metalry101]

Yes, they'll work. You'll need the 3.3 knuckles and turnbuckles as well.
And arms. If you take a look at the 3.3 arms, they've been clearanced for the fatter driveshafts. Luckily, for those of us who bash hard, there is an upgrade available. RPM already has 3.3 Maxx arms available, specially clearanced for the Revo-spec driveshafts.

[ChuckDeez]

sweet, i'll just get rpm arms instead of the stock 3.3.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

I love RPM products. Unfortunately I broke one today :( I may send it in for their free replacement warranty thing :D

-J

[cooleocool]

And arms. If you take a look at the 3.3 arms, they've been clearanced for the fatter driveshafts. Luckily, for those of us who bash hard, there is an upgrade available. RPM already has 3.3 Maxx arms available, specially clearanced for the Revo-spec driveshafts.I've heard that you will not need them. I've been told that it looks like they will hit, but they are not.

If anything truly has to be done, I'm just going to take a sanding drum and my Dremel and make small grooves on the arms. Much cheaper than replacing them. Plus, I'm not running stock arms either. I'm still running my old Pro-Line suspension kit.