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maxxmanxxx
11-20-2006, 03:21 PM
thanks maxd out that will work great

maxxmanxxx
11-20-2006, 03:29 PM
ill post some pics soon

metalry101
11-20-2006, 10:57 PM
I've heard that you will not need them. I've been told that it looks like they will hit, but they are not.

If anything truly has to be done, I'm just going to take a sanding drum and my Dremel and make small grooves on the arms. Much cheaper than replacing them. Plus, I'm not running stock arms either. I'm still running my old Pro-Line suspension kit.
Ya...that wouldn't surprise me, and if you've already got RPM arms, I'd take a Dremel to them as well, but if you're still running the stock arms, RPM arms are worth the money anyways, and if you're buying them, you might as well buy the 3.3 arms.

And that Pro-Line kit..ya...it rocks. I ran that for about 5 years..never broke a single piece on it. If only it was still available. I'd buy that over the RPM arms any day.

B4 Stealth
11-21-2006, 03:46 PM
what are some weak points on the maxx? I know I need shocks, would the proline powerstroke kit work? I am trying to make the ultimate bash truck, and the first issue is durablility, thanks.

maxxmanxxx
11-21-2006, 04:20 PM
na the powerstroke shocks like to leek or atleest mine do all the time iv replaced seelt and all but they still leek but other than that there alright

B4 Stealth
11-21-2006, 08:30 PM
aymore weak points I need to know about ahead of time, and can someone rreccomend some good big bore long travel shocks? thanks guys

metalry101
11-21-2006, 11:23 PM
na the powerstroke shocks like to leek or atleest mine do all the time iv replaced seelt and all but they still leek but other than that there alright
I've got two sets of Powerstrokes and I've never had an issue with a single shock leaking. They're awesome shocks...absolutely no complaints about them at all.

metalry101
11-21-2006, 11:38 PM
So...I decided that it has been too long for me to go without an E-Maxx, and I couldn't find a used one I liked at a price I was wiling to pay, so...I bought a brand new one. I'll get finished product pics posted later tonight. I bought a few upgrades for it tonight, and I have some other stuff laying around that I can put on it...needless to say...it will look a bit different before I go to bed tonight. Well...I've basically gotta rebuild the truck, so I should get crackin'. I'll be posting again in a few hours with new pictures.

:D

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8353/emaxx2ko7.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/2397/emaxx1pu8.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/6628/emaxx3vx8.jpg

JeffEmbracedDC
11-21-2006, 11:55 PM
Sweet, man. *jealous bigtime* About how much did you end up spending tonight? I'm curious.

-J

rcaboveall
11-22-2006, 08:21 AM
I just recieved my batteries today: http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032147&cp=2032056&allCount=14&fbc=1&f=Brand%2F1000815%2F&fbn=Brand%2FGP

...but the batteries I got were sealed in Radio Shack's covers. You do not see anywhere on the battery that they are GP's brand. It does say 3300 MAH Ni-MH so I assume they are GPs. Anyone ever bought these before?

pauster
11-22-2006, 08:57 AM
My first broken part was a rear turn buckle. It took a few years to break my first bulkhead. My sliders went pretty soon after I did the Pro-Line wide conversion.

Overall, it's a very durable truck IMO. Mine has been giving me some issues lately though. Maybe it's because it's so old... (I bought it new in the spring of '01).

Funny I just tested my new used E-Maxx and within 1 minute broke a rear turnbuckle.

I made carbon/aluminum replacement turnbuckles that should have about 1/3 the weight and look cool all in black. They are not adjustable but I can make them in any length I choose.

Bit by bit I want to turn it into a carbon monster. Let's see what part breaks next, I am planning a few extreme mods already.

metalry101
11-22-2006, 01:28 PM
Well...I didn't get everything done last night, but here are some pics of what I did get done. Since the pics were taken I've soldered my Deans connectors on as well.

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/4281/emaxx4zs5.jpg

http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/4558/emaxx5af6.jpg

http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/7064/emaxx6sp1.jpg

woodymaxx
11-22-2006, 06:23 PM
Does anyone know if there is a plastic version of the gorilla chassis? http://cgi.ebay.com/Gorilla-Maxx-Aluminum-Chassis-emaxx-e-revo-brushless_W0QQitemZ300051350934QQihZ020QQcategoryZ 44028QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em300051350934 I was wanting one that is a little more affordable. lol I think its kinda neat because it puts the wieght of the batterys and stuff down further.

Maxx42
11-22-2006, 07:40 PM
Does anyone know if there is a plastic version of the gorilla chassis? http://cgi.ebay.com/Gorilla-Maxx-Aluminum-Chassis-emaxx-e-revo-brushless_W0QQitemZ300051350934QQihZ020QQcategoryZ 44028QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em300051350934 I was wanting one that is a little more affordable. lol I think its kinda neat because it puts the wieght of the batterys and stuff down further.

If the bidding stays low enough for your wallet, it's totally worth getting. He's including the gorillamax motor mount with the chassis. Brand new you'd be looking at around $230 for what he's offering. That aluminum chassis is as light as its stock plastic counterpart. If you're still looking for a similar plastic chassis, you could try here:
http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com/Products.htm
I don't know if he still makes his chassis. Everything is listed as being "out of stock".

woodymaxx
11-23-2006, 12:09 PM
All I see on that site is clear chassis? and there isn't really anywhere to mount the batters. The chassis in the pictures section looks neat.

metalry101
11-23-2006, 12:30 PM
All I see on that site is clear chassis? and there isn't really anywhere to mount the batters. The chassis in the pictures section looks neat.
Industrial strength velcro works can do some amazing stuff. I ran that chassis for years (still would if I hadn't sold that E-Maxx), and I never had any problems with batteries. I just ran some big strips of industrial strength velcro on the chassis and the batteries. The self-adhesive stuff is ridiculously strong and will never let go, and the velcro itself...well...I used itto hold my EVX down as well...and I could pick up the truck by the EVX.

tadium54
11-23-2006, 12:53 PM
looking good ryan. very nice to see you back in the e-maxx game.

and as to mounting the batteries to the torpedo chassis- take 2 pieces of velcro and take the protective strips off. one side will be soft and the oter one will be prickly. drill a hole in the chassis where you want the batteries to be mounted for a screwto keep the velcro from moving around too much. drill a hole wide enough for the velcro and enlarge it with a dremel to make the strip pass through. place a battery down on the chassis and mark off where you need to mark your other hole for the velcro to pass through. repeat the drilling and widening. repeat for the other side. now you have a fast way to change your batteries and keep them secure

Duster_360
11-23-2006, 01:40 PM
Was wondering why you used mips for centers and dynamite cvds (same as RDLogics?) for wheels. I had a bad experience with mips with pins backing out (regardless of mods or red loctite or heatshrink) and doing a lot of damage and haven't used them since. I've been using either RDLogics or UE cvds with no more probs.

Only reason I ask, the used Emaxx I bought came with a NIP set of mips for axles and I was going to sell them rather than use them. I've just installed UE set of TI centers and cups and axles are my next issue to deal with. Thanks

Maxx42
11-23-2006, 09:40 PM
All I see on that site is clear chassis? and there isn't really anywhere to mount the batters. The chassis in the pictures section looks neat.

I believe that he uses lexan plastic to make his chassis. Lexan sheets are pretty strong (not to be confused with lucite). If you click on the racebomb link, you'll see a chassis similar to the gorillamaxx. I didn't realize, however, if you did go that route for a chassis, you really wouldn't save too much money over the gorillamaxx. I figured I'd post the link as a possible alternative.

Also the velcro that was mentioned above, I use industrial velcro to mount things in most of my RC's. Like metalry101 said, you can pick up your whole maxx with the velcro. I can lift my converted MGT with the velcro (much heavier than the maxx). It's really stronger stuff.. You can pick up a 4 foot roll at home depot for about $8 I think.

SerpentKing101
11-24-2006, 08:10 PM
metalry, please get some pics when you get that desert rat and wing mounted. I'm going to be running that setup soon, nice to have a preview. :D

metalry101
11-24-2006, 11:27 PM
Was wondering why you used mips for centers and dynamite cvds (same as RDLogics?) for wheels. I had a bad experience with mips with pins backing out (regardless of mods or red loctite or heatshrink) and doing a lot of damage and haven't used them since. I've been using either RDLogics or UE cvds with no more probs.

Only reason I ask, the used Emaxx I bought came with a NIP set of mips for axles and I was going to sell them rather than use them. I've just installed UE set of TI centers and cups and axles are my next issue to deal with. Thanks
Because that's what we had in stock, and I didn't want to pay the extra money for the MIP shiny CVD's. The rear's are MIP's (Pro-Line buys them from MIP and puts their header tag on them). I've had the set-screws come loose a couple of times, but it's very rare for me, and I run MIP CVD's in a considerable number of my cars. I've heard of people having problems with them, but I've yet to so I'll stick with them.

metalry101
11-24-2006, 11:30 PM
metalry, please get some pics when you get that desert rat and wing mounted. I'm going to be running that setup soon, nice to have a preview. :D
Will do.

Just Gundam
11-25-2006, 02:11 AM
I have had the pin from my center rear MIP CVD came loose, the protruding pin cut through the stock chassis just in front of the EVX and got stuck, sending my emaxx into a forward somersault. Since that incident, I did the pin mod with all my CVDs, simply using a round file to slightly file down the center of the pin for the set screw to bite into. My center MIPs lasted only half a year due to excessive wear, and the fronts and rears are just showing slight wear.

Spend a little time modding the pins, can save you lots of trouble in the long run.

metalry101
11-25-2006, 08:53 PM
I have had the pin from my center rear MIP CVD came loose, the protruding pin cut through the stock chassis just in front of the EVX and got stuck, sending my emaxx into a forward somersault. Since that incident, I did the pin mod with all my CVDs, simply using a round file to slightly file down the center of the pin for the set screw to bite into. My center MIPs lasted only half a year due to excessive wear, and the fronts and rears are just showing slight wear.

Spend a little time modding the pins, can save you lots of trouble in the long run.
Come to think of it, I did have that happen to me a couple times with my first E-Maxx. It was cool as hell! I was barrelling along at top speed when all of a sudden, all four locked up and the truck just started cartwheeling end-over-end-over-end. It was badass!!!

Duster_360
11-25-2006, 08:53 PM
.....Spend a little time modding the pins, can save you lots of trouble in the long run.

My prob occurred in spite of the pin mod and red loctite, but was on a Tmaxx not an Emaxx. Thanks for the advice, but I just don't trust them - my prob was also a center pin, but with alum bulks making it a little more expensive with everything that got trashed. I'll be selling this set that came with my used Emaxx.

metalry101 - Thanks, makes sense - continued good luck.

Just Gundam
11-26-2006, 09:15 AM
It was cool as hell! I was barrelling along at top speed when all of a sudden, all four locked up and the truck just started cartwheeling end-over-end-over-end. It was badass!!!

Sure it was! Such surprising stunts don't come often but they better not! :p

tadium54
11-26-2006, 10:54 PM
can't wait for christmas. with any luck, ill sell some stuff on ebay to fund a superduty and a kershaw designs conversion. maybe a rrp slipper and proline steering kit if im lucky too

Wuz Ranger
11-27-2006, 02:04 PM
What steering servo do you guys recommend? I noticed that the stock one....well to be blunt....it sucks.

Thanks,

Ranger

tadium54
11-27-2006, 05:38 PM
depends what your budget is. if you can, grab a hitec 5645 or 5945. got more cash? any of the airtronics high torque servos would be good. if your on a budget, look at the hitec 645 or 945 or something from bluebird

Just Gundam
11-27-2006, 10:32 PM
5945 was my first steering upgrade and it was awesome. Btw the 5945 has been upgraded and redesignated 5985, 5945 has been discontinued. I am now using 5955 (my 5945 shifts). If your budget allows, 5955 is the one to get.

metalry101
11-28-2006, 12:36 AM
I run a 5645 in mine and it works pretty well. The servo has plenty of torque, but I think I might need to invest in that Bomb-proof chassis when I go BL, because then I'll be able to run the PL steering setup...and that just makes a world of difference. The Kimbrough 124 that's on there now makes a world of difference, but it's still nowhere near as crisp as I'd like it to be.

cooleocool
11-28-2006, 04:31 PM
Just be sure that if you're running a digital servo, you're also running a radio with EPA (end point adjustment). You can burn out a digital servo with out EPA. I run a digital Hi-tec high torque servo (forgot the nubmer) with my 3PM radio. I run a receiver pack (with the red wire removed from the ESC's receiver plug) so that it gets a full 6 volts too. It's worked quite well for me! I'm running a Pro-Line steering kit, but I've head the Kimbrough Gas servo saver works well too!

Duster_360
11-28-2006, 08:07 PM
.....I'm running a Pro-Line steering kit, but I've head the Kimbrough Gas servo saver works well too!

Are you talking about PRO 6019 Kit with built in buggy style saver?

I've seen remarks that it doesn't fit an EMaxx, but you're not the 1st I've seen say you're running one. I asked and one guy said you have to cut the chassis? What's the deal, I've got one sitting here I'd intended to install. I always get rid of any strg bushings and try to upgrade to alum arms and brgs, but brgs minimum.

metalry101
11-28-2006, 08:29 PM
Are you talking about PRO 6019 Kit with built in buggy style saver?

I've seen remarks that it doesn't fit an EMaxx, but you're not the 1st I've seen say you're running one. I asked and one guy said you have to cut the chassis? What's the deal, I've got one sitting here I'd intended to install. I always get rid of any strg bushings and try to upgrade to alum arms and brgs, but brgs minimum.
It's made for a T-Maxx, but it will fit an E-Maxx if you're running a flat chassis rather than the stock chassis with the molded plastic rails. If you've gotta have it, the stock chassis can be Dremel'd for clearance, but it does require a fair amount of work.

Duster_360
11-29-2006, 01:08 PM
Thanks for clearing that up. I would go ahead and install in my Emaxx, but I don't want to do anything that would be that permanent. I'm going put my T and E side by side to get a better feel for how much dremeling it would take to fit it in the Emaxx - mine needs some strg help.

On a diff note - how can I tell if my used Emaxx has the Proline suspension? Reason I ask, I finally took a real hard look at the Mip cvds it came with and they're NIP Proline Mip cvds- for the Proline suspension. Why would someone buy a set of CVDs made for the Proline suspension if the truck didn't have that suspension?? I can't find anything online about these or the suspension.

I want to be sure they will fit before I open them. Is there a diff in the cvds for the proline suspension and cvds for the ordinary widemaxx suspension??

metalry101
11-29-2006, 01:57 PM
I want to be sure they will fit before I open them. Is there a diff in the cvds for the proline suspension and cvds for the ordinary widemaxx suspension??
No. Pro-Line CVD's are MIP CVD's with a different header tag. Literally, that's it. The Traxxas WideMaxx suspension and the Pro-Line Maxx Performance Suspension are the same width. The shock geometry is a little different I believe, but the width is identical, so your Pro-Line CVD's will work perfectly fine with the stock arms (or RPM arms, or any other arms that are the same length as Traxxas' WideMaxx arms).

bashin Maxxer15
11-29-2006, 06:02 PM
Hey guys, just thought I post a couple pics of my E-maxx, I bought it in April 2004 and it's been a great truck, hope ya' like:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/steelerfan_2006/100_0462.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/steelerfan_2006/100_0461.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/steelerfan_2006/100_0456.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/steelerfan_2006/100_0455.jpg

tadium54
11-29-2006, 08:00 PM
nice looking maxx

Duster_360
11-29-2006, 10:18 PM
No. Pro-Line CVD's are MIP CVD's with a different header tag. Literally, that's it. The Traxxas WideMaxx suspension and the Pro-Line Maxx Performance Suspension are the same width. The shock geometry is a little different I believe, but the width is identical, so your Pro-Line CVD's will work perfectly fine with the stock arms (or RPM arms, or any other arms that are the same length as Traxxas' WideMaxx arms).

Super! Thanks metalry101, this is just falling into place almost too well. I guess I'll use them in spite of my feelings about probs I've had with them in the past.

guver
11-29-2006, 10:27 PM
Do you think it'll be underpowered?

I'm using 65 turn lathe motors and 20 volts. Hopefully it'll be stock, but kinda light weight. :cool:

metalry101
11-30-2006, 01:12 AM
Super! Thanks metalry101, this is just falling into place almost too well. I guess I'll use them in spite of my feelings about probs I've had with them in the past.
Ya...I had mine come apart the other day. Tore up my knuckle a bit (not that I care, I'm putting RPM knuckles on it as soon as my PL suspension gets here). It also cracked the barrel in half, and I didn't have any spares on me at the track tonight so I couldn't fix it. If I could have I was going to go rally my Maxx around the track to see how it would do. Maybe Saturday night if I'm lucky. If not...next Wednesday for sure!

metalry101
11-30-2006, 01:15 AM
Do you think it'll be underpowered?

I'm using 65 turn lathe motors and 20 volts. Hopefully it'll be stock, but kinda light weight. :cool:
Underpowered? No. Slow...yes, probably. 65 turn motors don't rev at all. I'm talking under 3 miles an hour in a crawler on a freshly charged 7.2 volt pack. On 20 volts, I would think they'd just fry...but if not, I still don't think they'll even rev as high as the stock motors. They'll be insanely torquey, but I doubt the speed will be impressive. It's worth a shot though...they're only 20 dollar motors...might as well see what you can get out of them.

metalry101
11-30-2006, 01:18 AM
Hey guys, just thought I post a couple pics of my E-maxx, I bought it in April 2004 and it's been a great truck, hope ya' like:
Nice truck man. Looks like a lot of fun!

ChuckDeez
11-30-2006, 02:50 AM
I need a steering servo. What do you guys suggest for a steering servo?

metalry101
11-30-2006, 03:41 AM
I need a steering servo. What do you guys suggest for a steering servo?
Depends on what you're wanting to spend. I run a Hitec 5645. It's the best you can get for under $60. If you're not wanting to spend quite that much, the JR Sport 125MG is a killer servo for $35. If you're willing to spend more, the JR 9000T is badass, as are Hitec titanium geared units.

guver
11-30-2006, 10:37 AM
Do you think it'll be underpowered?

I'm using 65 turn lathe motors and 20 volts. Hopefully it'll be stock, but kinda light weight. :cool:


Well, your right, it's not only underpowered, but it's slower than molasses. I'ts in low gear and probably won't make 10 mph.

Oh well, I'll consider this a "breakin" run and put it in high gear soon. My intent is to use 7S later on to get some more speed.

I think I'll eventually go back to the 550 motors instead of 540's. I need a cheap 555 motor to use 29 volts. ;)

Just Gundam
11-30-2006, 12:28 PM
You certainly have a passion for testing and experimenting! :p

guver
11-30-2006, 12:31 PM
That's the only way I learn.

Just Gundam
11-30-2006, 12:41 PM
True! Only by doing it personally will you get more thorough knowledge :winner:

bashin Maxxer15
11-30-2006, 03:29 PM
I need a steering servo. What do you guys suggest for a steering servo?
I like the Hitec HS645MG.......

Duster_360
11-30-2006, 04:44 PM
Mine is running a JR Z590M and its weak - it is going to get replaced, its only 85inoz, just not strong enough. Think that is same as stock servo specs.

tadium54
11-30-2006, 08:25 PM
are you running the stock servo saver? its pretty weak too

woodymaxx
11-30-2006, 09:21 PM
Hey I have a grave digger body and I need a longer rear body mount... does anyone know where I can get one? thanks

bashin Maxxer15
11-30-2006, 09:38 PM
Hey I have a grave digger body and I need a longer rear body mount... does anyone know where I can get one? thanksProline makes one if you have stock style shock tower and so does RPM if you have their kind of shock towers.

Duster_360
11-30-2006, 09:44 PM
are you running the stock servo saver? its pretty weak too

Well, I thought I had all this fixed when I scored a proline strg setup, but I didn't know it takes dremeling the chassis to make it fit, but no, when I bought it it had no saver at all. Right now its running a Kim 124. I've got several 645s and just have not gotten around to changing. I didn't realize til tonight how poor the strg was, saw it was a JR an assumed it was ok....not!

Are these supposed to be noisy? Mine seems to make a lot of noise, I've just gone thru trans and replace all brgs, upgraded to UE idlers and then installed UE TI centers. I've checked wheel brgs - they are ok, new ones on the way, but doubt they are the cause of the noise. Mine is almost as noisy as my 2.5 Tmaxx!

rcaboveall
12-01-2006, 02:12 PM
OK, I'm expecting my first E-Maxx real soon. I read a lot of articles pertaining this truck. For some reason, the search features for this forum aren't as good as others. Quick & Easy Question:

Which servo saver should I buy to replace the stock one?

bashin Maxxer15
12-01-2006, 04:21 PM
Which servo saver should I buy to replace the stock one?I suggest a Kimborugh servo saver, I use this one:Clicky (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS361&P=ML)

tadium54
12-02-2006, 01:11 AM
the 124 with a good servo will turn the steering from wimpy to awesome. great part

B4 Stealth
12-02-2006, 08:25 PM
if you replaced the stock titans with a pair of big block 10 turn's from trinity would you notice a big difference? and does annybody know if these motors can be cut on a 540 size lathe? thanks guys!

guver
12-02-2006, 09:14 PM
The 10 turns would be far moree faster and powerful, but wouldn't last very long and would overheat. I do 550 arms on my 540 lathes, but had to space the v-blocks apart a bit further. Pretty much the same except the length.

maxxmanxxx
12-03-2006, 10:18 PM
hey metalry 101 i was wondering since my shocks leak what would be the best to stop them from leeking it looks like its coming from the bottom seals and how do you totaly tear them down i could only get the tops off please help me

tadium54
12-03-2006, 10:25 PM
the bottom unscrews to uncover the o-rings. im guessing a shaft you have is scored and its tearing the rings. rebuild em and take your time

metalry101
12-04-2006, 02:42 AM
hey metalry 101 i was wondering since my shocks leak what would be the best to stop them from leeking it looks like its coming from the bottom seals and how do you totaly tear them down i could only get the tops off please help me
If they're leaking that bad, your seals might just be shot. I've never had any problems at all with my Powerstrokes, though they are due for a rebuild. I haven't rebuilt them since I bought them over a year ago. They've had 4 gallons of hard use on my TNX Pro before being swapped to my E-Maxx.

metalry101
12-04-2006, 02:45 AM
For those of you who want an ESC that's better than the EVX but won't break the bank, might I suggest the HPI/Hot Bodies unit that comes standard in the E-Zilla. It's smoother than the EVX, about the same size, and well...check out this picture.

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/6203/ezilla2vj7.jpg

I rallied my E-Zilla like this for a good 5 or 10 minutes today without any problems. I can't say I suggest this at all...and it's possible that it will fry on me tomorrow, but even so, it worked today despite all that snow. An EVX starts smoking and explodes if you set it near snow. Covering it with the fluffy white stuff like that? It wouldn't last 5 seconds.

guver
12-04-2006, 04:28 PM
Does the hotbodies/hpi esc use just one side connector to power servo and esc? (like the e-maxx) Has anyone tested the max voltage? thanks.

metalry101
12-04-2006, 11:19 PM
Does the hotbodies/hpi esc use just one side connector to power servo and esc? (like the e-maxx) Has anyone tested the max voltage? thanks.
I have absolutely no idea on the first question, and I've seen a pic of an E-Zilla equipped with 14 cells, so I assume it can handle it, along with the open endbell mod motors it was equipped with, but it did have a heatsink. My guess is the heatsink was more because of the motors than the batteries, but either way, I think it can handle at least 14 cells. I plan equipping mine with 14 very soon.

bashin Maxxer15
12-05-2006, 05:12 PM
That E-Zilla ESC sounds like neat idea...Is it really water proof or just water resistant?

Does anyone know how many turns the E-Zilla motors are?

cpee
12-05-2006, 08:49 PM
this sounds like a hell of a idea any any info yet

metalry101
12-06-2006, 12:27 AM
That E-Zilla ESC sounds like neat idea...Is it really water proof or just water resistant?

Does anyone know how many turns the E-Zilla motors are?
I have no idea if it's waterproof. I doubt it. I would imagine HPI would be promoting the hell out of that aspect if it was waterproof, because honestly, that's easily the biggest drawback of the Maxx. It's definately water resistant, but waterproof? I doubt it.

As for the motor turns..probably 23...same as the Maxx I believe.

woodymaxx
12-08-2006, 12:58 AM
Does anyone have a whole emaxx transmission they would like to sell? thanks

cooleocool
12-08-2006, 11:22 AM
You're playing with fire running your truck unprotected like that in the snow. You're probably wearing your motors out faster too...

neweuser
12-08-2006, 02:43 PM
Not to mention other things!

neweuser
12-08-2006, 02:44 PM
You're playing with fire running your truck unprotected like that in the snow. You're probably wearing your motors out faster too...
Go to ebay! There are probably tons!

metalry101
12-09-2006, 03:20 AM
You're playing with fire running your truck unprotected like that in the snow. You're probably wearing your motors out faster too...
I happen to like fire. A lot.

XXWoodmanXX
12-10-2006, 06:26 PM
The 10 turns would be far moree faster and powerful, but wouldn't last very long and would overheat. I do 550 arms on my 540 lathes, but had to space the v-blocks apart a bit further. Pretty much the same except the length.


:confused:

Is there a rebuildable 550-size motor out there?

XXWoodmanXX
12-10-2006, 07:46 PM
Has anyone ever installed a set of Anti-sway bars on their Maxx? If so, what brand are you using and are they effective, without breakage to the mounts or any other part of the chassis?

There's several sets of them from RCWorks USA and I'm looking to get a set. Just wanted some input from those that have installed a set. :) Thanks!

cooleocool
12-11-2006, 12:36 AM
I happen to like fire. A lot.Just remember... If you play with fire, you get burned ;)...

:confused:

Is there a rebuildable 550-size motor out there?Are there? Yes. Trinity makes a few. Reedy used to make some too...

neweuser
12-12-2006, 03:12 PM
Has anyone ever installed a set of Anti-sway bars on their Maxx? If so, what brand are you using and are they effective, without breakage to the mounts or any other part of the chassis?

There's several sets of them from RCWorks USA and I'm looking to get a set. Just wanted some input from those that have installed a set. :) Thanks!
Sway bars are pretty much useless on a maxx unless you are street driving all the time.

XwargasimX
12-14-2006, 07:33 PM
im thinking on the e-sav or the e-maxx, and i need some opinions

evst 360
12-14-2006, 07:42 PM
e-maxx all the way.

tadium54
12-14-2006, 08:54 PM
ditto

nitro_newbie
12-14-2006, 11:34 PM
can you shift the emaxx into diffrent gears while it is at speed?? thanx
nitro_newbie

evst 360
12-15-2006, 12:04 AM
yes you can, at least that is what traxxas says.

tadium54
12-15-2006, 01:01 AM
again, ditto. shift on the fly

Just Gundam
12-15-2006, 01:07 PM
...but momentary release of throttle is necessary when shifting.

pauster
12-15-2006, 10:20 PM
...but momentary release of throttle is necessary when shifting.


yes, I had one instance when I switched into 2nd at max speed and my E-Maxx flipped over - but normally it works very smoothly. I would recommend to release throttle just like you would with a car if you drive a stick shift.

nitro_newbie
12-16-2006, 02:01 PM
okay then and do tmaxx spurs fit or does it use special spurs i have varies sizes thats why i ask this question

tadium54
12-16-2006, 07:48 PM
uses same size spurs as far as i know of

SerpentKing101
12-16-2006, 08:09 PM
t-maxx spurs will fit, but you cant go over 99 teeth (pinion+spur) without modding the motor mount plate.

vaderbxman
12-16-2006, 09:23 PM
Are there wing mounts on tower hobbies that I can buy for my future E-maxx? And a wing to go with it?

Duster_360
12-16-2006, 10:19 PM
Haven't seen one on Tower, but this one is supposed to fit T, E or Smaxx.

http://www.2coolrc.com/detail.aspx?ID=954

nitro_newbie
12-16-2006, 10:31 PM
well i have started ,my conversion project of converting my tmaxx to an emaxx all i need now is a tranny with motor plate and im done any thoughts on were to get it?should i get it used on the bay or just uild it myself seems like they both would cost about the same??thanks any reccomendations on what batteries that are inexpensive but pack a good punch?? thank alot
nitro_newbie

ChuckDeez
12-29-2006, 04:01 AM
How do you properly remove them? I'd like to remove them the right way. Is there a tool to do this job? One of my tamiya plugs is fouling up and I'd like to replace it with another tamiya plug.

GT Freak
12-29-2006, 01:09 PM
chuck, toss those in the trash, and get these...u'll love the improvement.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000385672&I=LXKX39&P=K

nitro_newbie
12-30-2006, 07:00 PM
hey does any one have any experience with the novak superduty xr?and is it a good esc as im in the market for a new esc. thanx any reccomendations would be great also

tadium54
12-30-2006, 11:40 PM
i just bought one. i'll let you know how it performs

nitro_newbie
12-31-2006, 12:00 AM
cool thanks alot

cpee
12-31-2006, 08:23 PM
what systems are people running? does anyone have better results with different ones? i asked before and stayed with stock motors 3900 packs alot faster but the brushless seems to be ridiculously fast.or do we wait for the bruskless revo rumored to be released soon. happy new year fellows rcers

GT Freak
01-01-2007, 12:44 AM
are there any better batts, at $25-30 a pack, then the RS packs :confused:

starluckrc
01-01-2007, 02:28 AM
Get a Mamba Max instead of the Novak Superduty XR, then you can go brushless later if you choose. The Mamba Max is an excellent brushed esc as well and can run dual motors as well as 12-14 cells with the bec disabled.

Pick up a Mamba Max/Feigao 540-9L combo for a 40+ mph brushless setup that will only set you back a little over $200.

nitro_newbie
01-01-2007, 06:36 PM
Get a Mamba Max instead of the Novak Superduty XR, then you can go brushless later if you choose. The Mamba Max is an excellent brushed esc as well and can run dual motors as well as 12-14 cells with the bec disabled.

Pick up a Mamba Max/Feigao 540-9L combo for a 40+ mph brushless setup that will only set you back a little over $200.
if you were talking to me how can i run duel brsuhed 550 motors?? and i want to be able to run 7 cells but if i can get good performance than i think i would buy that. so have you tried this before starluck set up with the mamba(twin 550's)? and brushless brings to many problems with the emaxx :p gotta get supermaxx diffs and then the cvds if i wouldnt need the diffs i would go brushless but since i need the diffs first i cant see wasting all that money right now.but if you werent talking to me i apologize
nitro_newbie :cool:

cooleocool
01-03-2007, 01:03 AM
are there any better batts, at $25-30 a pack, then the RS packs :confused:A better deal on name brand cells? Not that I know of...

bashin Maxxer15
01-03-2007, 03:45 PM
are there any better batts, at $25-30 a pack, then the RS packs :confused:I dont know of any either, the RS GP3300's are about the best batts you can get for the price.

starluckrc
01-03-2007, 06:58 PM
You can run dual 550's on the Mamba Max no problems. I use one in my Clod currently. It's a no limit brushed motor esc. I also ran a completely stock brushless
E-Maxx for many months before twisting the stock shafts. It wasn't until I added cvd's that I had problems. I had to get Maxximizer diff cups to handle the stress transferred to the diffs from the cvd's. Stock held up real well with lightweight Bowtie/Velocity setup.

nitro_newbie
01-03-2007, 11:34 PM
cool i wonder if the hv-maxx would be this tame i plan on getting the 6.5 on 12 cells and run the sportmaxx rims and tires on 2WD. would this be more tame and wat set up would you reccomend? i want something that goes around 33mph and is realiable and wont thermal and i plan to get 4WD and some badland tires on sportmaxx rims. i dont want to dump lots of money but i dont mind getting the 3.3 shafts and knuckles and the idlers or shiming the diff or getting the cases but spending 250 on shafts and s60 on diffs thats just crzy!!but thanks starluck

bashin Maxxer15
01-04-2007, 01:37 PM
A E-maxx on 2WD would just be nuts, you would have nothing but wheelies!

nitro_newbie
01-04-2007, 02:12 PM
it was nuts when it was nitro!!! and if it is any were ear the same as my 18t i expected crazy wheelies and and mad drifting!!!

ChuckDeez
01-04-2007, 03:56 PM
i dont think it will wheelie at all. I tried it and it just does burnouts. maybe because i needed better tires.

SerpentKing101
01-04-2007, 05:10 PM
had to be the tires. My E would wheelie virtually the whole time the batteries had a good charge.

then i snapped an outdrive...

GT Freak
01-05-2007, 11:14 AM
how would u make a E 2wd without snapping drives :confused:

Eli the rc guy
01-06-2007, 05:19 AM
Hey guys.. Some of you might have seen. Im looking for an E-maxx, and I am looking up some hop ups.. I have seen that it dosnt look that fast stock. So I am gunna put the titan 12 turn 550 motor in it. I need help figureing out the a good pinon for it, becasue I dont wunan burn out anything.. Need adive fast.

Thxs.. You'll be seeing me in this thred more now for Sure.

bashin Maxxer15
01-06-2007, 11:14 AM
The 12 turn Titan probably wont do very good in the E-maxx because of the wieght it will have to move, besides they wont work with the EVX or Novak Super Duty since the motors are made for 7.2v and not 14.4v like the E-maxx Titans, so that means you would need ESC's, so I'd recommend staying with the stock Titans, they are very reliable and have pretty nice top speed, I once got my E-maxx to 27mph with the stock Titans and 6 cell GP3300's.

SerpentKing101
01-06-2007, 03:46 PM
how would u make a E 2wd without snapping drives :confused:

either by not running it, or upgrading to cvds. Driveshaft life of a stock 2WD E is measured in minutes.

Eli the rc guy
01-06-2007, 04:45 PM
Aite.. SO Im not gunago for the 12 t 's then. but I still want a little more Top spd. Any motor suggestions?? Im gunna be using IB 4200's stick pack, and w/e batt's I can get off when I buy the car.

starluckrc
01-06-2007, 08:36 PM
HV-Maxx will do ok. Or you can go with one of my E-Savage specials (works great in E-Maxx as well).

smilinjohn
01-06-2007, 09:28 PM
:o Fellas I'm looking for some ideas on ESC and motor set up for an E-Maxx I'm getting next week. I'm trading a RC18mt rolling chassis, for a E-Maxx roller. It'll need a motor & ESC that's all it's missing, I think the guy I'm trading with is giving me a stock battery, the stocker Tx & Rx and servo. I'm not completely new to RC I've been running 1/18th for a while now so I do understand some things. I've been reading this thread and can see that I'll be having to upgrade the drive shafts, and diffs (I really like BL motors), are there any other considerations I should be aware of on this particular model??? Thanks for any help you give in advance. :D

SerpentKing101
01-06-2007, 09:58 PM
only other thing would be upgrading the tranny's idler gear.

smilinjohn
01-06-2007, 11:02 PM
only other thing would be upgrading the tranny's idler gear.

Any good suggestions on one to look towards.

ChuckDeez
01-06-2007, 11:09 PM
lol, smilinjohn did the same thing i did. But i got money for trading my rc18t for an emaxx. i traded my BL rc18t for a stock emaxx rtr and $20. Much more fun than the rc18t.

smilinjohn
01-07-2007, 12:51 AM
I'm still going to have my custom built RC18t I'm just getting rid of my spare truck. I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on a real basher.

Eli the rc guy
01-07-2007, 01:14 AM
mm Not looking into a brushless yet. I;ll just stick to the stock ones for now.

ChuckDeez
01-07-2007, 01:39 AM
I'm still going to have my custom built RC18t I'm just getting rid of my spare truck. I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on a real basher.

i wouldn't say the emaxx is a real basher. I'd say the Stampede is a real basher.

Eli the rc guy
01-07-2007, 01:44 AM
Mabe nto a basher... but it looks fun to bash around :p

ChuckDeez
01-07-2007, 02:32 AM
Mabe nto a basher... but it looks fun to bash around :p


haha yeah, but it would survive more crashes than an emaxx.

Eli the rc guy
01-07-2007, 02:54 AM
Well. The E-maxx is beafier, but more tourqe the harder hit.. The Pede is less tourqe behind it, and less befier. I think they are even..Im still going with an E-maxx though. I like Monster's :D

GT Freak
01-07-2007, 10:43 AM
Can this be done, and what efect will it have on my maxx?
also, has anyone seen this NEW item coming out for the maxx :confused:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXPNK4&P=7

vaderbxman
01-07-2007, 12:04 PM
The link doesn't work. ;)

Eli the rc guy
01-07-2007, 03:52 PM
Here... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPNK4&P=7 there is a dissuction on it at General RC Monster trucks.

vaderbxman
01-07-2007, 04:40 PM
Ahh, thank you!! Looks pretty sturdy! Hopefully this'll make it's way into the next E-maxx generation. :D

ChuckDeez
01-07-2007, 06:02 PM
Well. The E-maxx is beafier, but more tourqe the harder hit.. The Pede is less tourqe behind it, and less befier. I think they are even..Im still going with an E-maxx though. I like Monster's :D

i own a emaxx as well, but i just wanted smily know which one could take a more heavy beating.

Eli the rc guy
01-07-2007, 06:03 PM
I dont have 1 yet, but I am planning on buying 1 very very soon.

ChuckDeez
01-07-2007, 06:04 PM
Ahh, thank you!! Looks pretty sturdy! Hopefully this'll make it's way into the next E-maxx generation. :D

yeah, i made a thread yesterday about it. I hope a new emaxx comes out!

ChuckDeez
01-07-2007, 06:07 PM
I dont have 1 yet, but I am planning on buying 1 very very soon.

wait until march, there is a possiblity for a new one.

Eli the rc guy
01-07-2007, 06:35 PM
Naw, I got a budget to stick to. Im gunan go with a used E-maxx.

GT Freak
01-07-2007, 07:24 PM
good idea eli, used can be just as good as new.

Eli the rc guy
01-07-2007, 07:31 PM
Its hard to find good sellers though. Im realy interested on this 1 guy's. Anyone got a E-maxx going cheap. PM me!!

ChuckDeez
01-07-2007, 07:42 PM
i would be selling mine if there is a new emaxx coming around. I would let it go $230 shipped. but i dont know yet.

cooleocool
01-08-2007, 11:38 AM
Can this be done, and what efect will it have on my maxx?Sure, but it would get half the voltage...

GT Freak
01-08-2007, 03:50 PM
eli, try ebay, or rc universe...those may come up with what your looking for also. :cool:

smilinjohn
01-08-2007, 05:47 PM
i own a emaxx as well, but i just wanted smily know which one could take a more heavy beating.

Thanks for the heads up, I was planning on a pede sooner or later, I read the write up in RCCA and it sounds like my kind of truck. I was just under the impression that the Maxx would do better than the RC18t I'm running now, at lest it'll go through more than my little truck will now. If it breaks (and I'm sure I'll break it lol) I'll fix it just like I always do with the munchkin. :wave:

ChuckDeez
01-08-2007, 06:33 PM
Thanks for the heads up, I was planning on a pede sooner or later, I read the write up in RCCA and it sounds like my kind of truck. I was just under the impression that the Maxx would do better than the RC18t I'm running now, at lest it'll go through more than my little truck will now. If it breaks (and I'm sure I'll break it lol) I'll fix it just like I always do with the munchkin. :wave:

lol, k. I just fixed mines with some CA glue. I busted a turnbuckle plastic thing. I couldn't go see the hobby store because I didn't have time for almost 2 weeks. I decided to use CA glue and it holds up great! I'll just keep it like this until I buy a new piece. Then my Revo 3.3 is going to get fixed this week hopefully. My header cracked so I bought a new one from ebay. I wish I bought it a month ago. I was too picky on the prices on ebay and I realized no matter how many times i bid and lose, i should of just paid an extra dollar for the buy it now. I felt so stupid. I miss driving my RC's. :(

smilinjohn
01-08-2007, 10:07 PM
I just fixed mines with some CA glue.

I use that all the time.

Eli the rc guy
01-09-2007, 09:09 AM
Im got an account on ebay. im looking but, Im not sure how to use.. I'll check rc universe. THxs!

GT Freak
01-09-2007, 12:11 PM
what benifit do these roll cages i see on the trucks offer, besides weight :confused:

ChuckDeez
01-09-2007, 05:11 PM
damage to the truck?

vaderbxman
01-09-2007, 05:32 PM
Roll cages sound good, but really don't help much unless you run without the body on. The body should act as a roll cage so to speak, so a metal one would be purely for bling.

I'm hoping tower hurries-up and restocks their 2400 Mah batteries for the E-maxx (Team Orion and Peak racing brands). I want some more run time for my Evader, and will use those packs eventually in my future E-maxx.

ChuckDeez
01-09-2007, 05:36 PM
just go to your nearest radioshack and buy their 3300mah GP battery packs for $25 a piece.

vaderbxman
01-09-2007, 06:42 PM
One prob: I don't have a Ni-Mh charger. Otherwise I woud've bought a couple. Probably could use a new charger. :roll2:

ChuckDeez
01-09-2007, 10:44 PM
you would save lots of money if you went with a nimh charger. I have the digital pirahna one and tis great!

Eli the rc guy
01-09-2007, 11:46 PM
If you are gunna get a charger, for E-maxx I would recomend a Intellie Peack charger dual. So you can charge both your batteries at once.. As for me.. with batterie wise.. Im gunna use SMC Ib 4200's 6 cell.. Should be a hell of a punch..and Im guessing a good 15 or mabe 20 min drive time?? I dont know, but it should be 1 hell of a ride..

ChuckDeez
01-09-2007, 11:47 PM
I get around 20 minutes with my 3300mah gp so you would probably last for 35minutes.

Eli the rc guy
01-10-2007, 10:41 AM
Ohh.. Jezz... 35 mins?!? thats insane, if I get 2 sets of packs.. i could be running for an hour and 10.... lol. Anyone know how to water proof the E-maxx? Next year if theres snow... I got an idea.. LOL >=P

bashin Maxxer15
01-11-2007, 05:07 PM
Anyone know how to water proof the E-maxx? Next year if theres snow... I got an idea.. LOL >=PI just stretch a shower cap over the chassis and put a peice of duct tape over the battery slots, been doing it for a couple years and it works great!

SerpentKing101
01-11-2007, 07:33 PM
you guys are getting awesome runtimes. I kill fully-charged 3300s within 6-8 minutes...

Granted I'm in 2nd gear, full throttle the whole time, but...

Duster_360
01-11-2007, 08:26 PM
Thanks, now I don't feel so bad about my 7cell 4000 pacs lasting only 10min if I'm lucky, lol!

Eli the rc guy
01-11-2007, 09:28 PM
Mmm, mabe ur packs are old. or you got a bad cell.. Running a 19 turn on my XXX-S with a old crapy 1500 and 1400 packs I get like 10 mins... 6 cell too.

ChuckDeez
01-11-2007, 10:07 PM
i get 10 minutes with my dynamite 1500's in my emaxx. lol 2nd gear too.

metalry101
01-12-2007, 01:46 AM
you guys are getting awesome runtimes. I kill fully-charged 3300s within 6-8 minutes...

Granted I'm in 2nd gear, full throttle the whole time, but...
I probably get a little longer than that...maybe 10 minutes out of my 7 cell 3300's running hard primarily in second gear, but still nowhere near the 30 minutes some guys are claiming. My Twin Force and my Mamba-fied Stampede both feel like they run forever, but the E-Maxx sucks 'em dry like it's going out of style.

We'll see if that changes now that I've added a little horsepower. I picked up a Novak HV 6.5 BL the other day. We got like 8" of snow today so it'll be a while before I actually take the truck out and rally it again, but when I do, I'll let you guys know what kind of runtime I'm getting.

Eli the rc guy
01-12-2007, 10:18 AM
Tell us how that turns out. I seen the 6.5 in a E-maxx... Looks realy fun.

Duster_360
01-12-2007, 01:29 PM
I know I've got a cell going in one pac - it gets hotter than rest when running and when disch too. Other pac charges to almost 4000 and the one with hot cell does good to get to 3700, usually 3600+. One of downsides of a stik style pac, no easy fix.

Eli the rc guy
01-13-2007, 12:47 AM
Mm get ur dead cell fixed, for buy a new pack. cause it might casue more damige to the pack. I got a dead cell in a cheap pack.. It is wraped cardboard so... Im probly just gunan throw it away.

Eli the rc guy
01-13-2007, 02:31 AM
Has anyone seen these?? If My titan 12 turns didnt work out.. I wander.. I found what I am looking for??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWR55&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWR56&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWR57&P=7

guver
01-13-2007, 02:48 PM
Most people will slam those motors, but I think they are some of the best 550 on the market. The problem with running them on a max is the max voltage is too low.

cpee
01-13-2007, 03:38 PM
are they worth changing to or just go brushless set up anyone using them yet .thanks chris

guver
01-13-2007, 03:42 PM
definately use brushless rather than those.

Duster_360
01-13-2007, 05:32 PM
Mm get ur dead cell fixed, for buy a new pack. cause it might casue more damige to the pack. I got a dead cell in a cheap pack.. It is wraped cardboard so... Im probly just gunan throw it away.

I'm keeping close watch on it til I have time to convert both pacs to side-by side. If I see further change, I'll do something then, but so far, its staying stable.

These were $110/pr packs from maxxamps, so they were decent cells to start. When I get them pulled apart, I'll replace the bad cell. These are my last nimh pacs, I getting ready to go bushless with lipo, but its going to take a while. I want these to last so they're worth the effort.

Eli the rc guy
01-13-2007, 10:33 PM
I dont know Guver. To just get those its like 80 bucks. going blrushless ( for monster trucks) will be over 400's. I would go for the motor(s) if I was going to upgrade.

guver
01-14-2007, 08:59 AM
Don't you have to add the cost of the esc in also? (even if you already own it) to be a fair comparison. I'm figuring a brand new hv 6.5 for $269.

I haven't gone to brushless motor because I can compare to $8 motors and sometimes $29 esc's and it's a no brainer.

Anyways, I am geting real tired of burning up 550 motos, pulling them apart, scrohjnging around for brushes I can find and setting up lathe to turn comms and reassembling. It's getting really old and I just ordered part of brushless system for 1/10 scale, but am still waiting to go brushless in my E-maxx.

I am ready and so is it though. All those 550 motors can stay in the big box of junk soon.

guver
01-14-2007, 09:04 AM
The problem with running them on a max is the max voltage is too low.

Don't forget about this, they will burn up really quick if using 14 cells on the wild ones. The very mild ones may tolerate 12 low voltage cells if the gearing is in low and hold up. :(

23Modified
01-14-2007, 10:27 PM
ok I saw this question and nobody really seemed to answer it. Whats the biggest motors I can put on the EVX speed controller?? Also would I have to go with a bigger gear ratio... I dont really wanna go brushless. My drivetrain is bullet-proof.. Tsais steel axels hardened gears yada yada yada you guys get the picture... Any help would be awesome thanks!!!!

tadium54
01-15-2007, 01:00 AM
on a single evx? check out kershaw designs. they have some pretty beefy motors

Eli the rc guy
01-15-2007, 10:24 AM
Erg.. with dual motors the limit is 12 550 motors. Single it is limitless brushed.

guver
01-15-2007, 04:35 PM
The limit for evx is 19 turn 550's for current.

23Modified
01-15-2007, 10:06 PM
ERG??? What is ERG...Ok so who makes good motors for these I really dont wanna burn up a 110 dollar speed control, you dig?? Thanks again

Eli the rc guy
01-15-2007, 10:29 PM
I was just thinking ^.^""" what dose you dig mean?? I would stick with the 23's stock ones. There arnt alota 550's around in the market that I know of.

metalry101
01-17-2007, 11:16 PM
So...I've been bored lately since I've been sick and it's been 3 degress outside. Because of that, I decided to build up the E-Maxx so that when it does warm up, it'll be ready to rock and roll. I'm still waiting on a couple of these parts to come in, and I haven't painted the body yet, so pics are still a couple of days off at least, but here's some teaser information for all of you guys. Pics will follow when the last few parts are on and the body is mounted. :D


Traxxas:
Aluminum bulkheads f/r
Alumimum chassis braces
Alumimum bumpers
Heatsink motor plate
Wheelie bar
Aluminum wheels w/ bearings for wheelie bar
Aluminum wheel hexes
Aluminum pivot balls
Blue aluminum pivot ball caps
Blue aluminum wheel nuts
Aluminum battery straps
Lightweight transmission top shaft/gears
Lightweight transmission output shaft and idler shafts

Pro-Line:
Maxx performance suspension kit
Maxx performance shocks
Maxx performance steering
Desert Rat body

Robinson Racing:
Dual disk slipper clutch setup w/ 72 tooth plastic gear
13 tooth 32 pitch pinion

RC Screwz:
Stainless steel hex hardware

Hitec:
5645MG steering servo

Novak:
HV 6.5 BL

Dynamite:
CVD's f/r

MIP:
Center CVD's

RPM:
Center skid and front and rear wear plates
Heavy duty steering knuckles w/ oversized bearings f/r

HPI:
White Q6 wheels

Imex:
Maxx Baja tires

Golden Horizons:
Aluminum bulkhead braces f/r

Integy:
Aluminum diff housings f/r
Aluminum diff housing ring dealies f/r

Spektrum:
Rx

Lunsford:
Titanium hinge pins
Titanium turnbuckles (included w/ PL Susp. kit)

attic
01-17-2007, 11:25 PM
i have kinda been away from rc for a while and i cant find any sites that sell 7 cell emaxx packs. i was wondering where ya'll are buying your packs?

metalry101
01-17-2007, 11:27 PM
i have kinda been away from rc for a while and i cant find any sites that sell 7 cell emaxx packs. i was wondering where ya'll are buying your packs?
I think Maxamps.com still sells preassembled 7-cell E-Maxx packs. Pro-Match Racing did last time I checked as well.

Personally though, I just buy 7 six cell packs, rip the 7th apart, and make the other six into 7 cell packs myself.

attic
01-18-2007, 07:11 AM
thanks i forgot all about those sites. and i probably could do that but im not to confident with my soldering skills.

GT Freak
01-18-2007, 07:35 AM
So...I've been bored lately since I've been sick and it's been 3 degress outside. Because of that, I decided to build up the E-Maxx so that when it does warm up, it'll be ready to rock and roll. I'm still waiting on a couple of these parts to come in, and I haven't painted the body yet, so pics are still a couple of days off at least, but here's some teaser information for all of you guys. Pics will follow when the last few parts are on and the body is mounted. :D


Traxxas:
Aluminum bulkheads f/r
Alumimum chassis braces
Alumimum bumpers
Heatsink motor plate
Wheelie bar
Aluminum wheels w/ bearings for wheelie bar
Aluminum wheel hexes
Aluminum pivot balls
Blue aluminum pivot ball caps
Blue aluminum wheel nuts
Aluminum battery straps
Lightweight transmission top shaft/gears
Lightweight transmission output shaft and idler shafts

Pro-Line:
Maxx performance suspension kit
Maxx performance shocks
Maxx performance steering
Desert Rat body

Robinson Racing:
Dual disk slipper clutch setup w/ 72 tooth plastic gear
13 tooth 32 pitch pinion

RC Screwz:
Stainless steel hex hardware

Hitec:
5645MG steering servo

Novak:
HV 6.5 BL

Dynamite:
CVD's f/r

MIP:
Center CVD's

RPM:
Center skid and front and rear wear plates
Heavy duty steering knuckles w/ oversized bearings f/r

HPI:
White Q6 wheels

Imex:
Maxx Baja tires

Golden Horizons:
Aluminum bulkhead braces f/r

Integy:
Aluminum diff housings f/r
Aluminum diff housing ring dealies f/r

Spektrum:
Rx

Lunsford:
Titanium hinge pins
Titanium turnbuckles (included w/ PL Susp. kit)

...and just what did all that cost ya :confused:

ChuckDeez
01-18-2007, 11:56 AM
...and just what did all that cost ya :confused:

are you a girl or something? :confused:

Eli the rc guy
01-18-2007, 11:59 AM
if you talking about the fact that the printing is in Pink... Pink is Sexy man, and it can be very Manly. Well.. alteast I think

metalry101
01-18-2007, 01:11 PM
...and just what did all that cost ya :confused:
I didn't buy it all at once, so I'm not sure...but it was a lot. I don't really want to think about it. My truck will be ready for the RCZ Great Lakes Bash though!

minijosh
01-18-2007, 05:07 PM
Rookie emaxx owner here. I just picked up one for $200 rtr with 2 batts. Body posts are broken on the truck so I'll need to replace them. Any good alloy ones out there or should I stick with stock plastics?

Duster_360
01-18-2007, 06:16 PM
Plastic will put up with a lot more abuse than alum will. One time on the lid and the alum ones will be bent. Believe me, you'll have it one its lid more than once. If you really want something diff, try the RPM ones. They will also take a lot of abuse.

tadium54
01-18-2007, 08:19 PM
i have the rpm ones, and haven't looked back since!

bashin Maxxer15
01-18-2007, 09:51 PM
Yeah, get the RPM ones, they will last much longer than the stockers.

minijosh
01-19-2007, 02:09 PM
Thx guys, it looks like I'm getting RPM's. For $200 rtr with 2 4200's. Not a bad deal with broken rear body posts. Just gotta find a place to buy them.

metalry101
01-19-2007, 11:06 PM
Thx guys, it looks like I'm getting RPM's. For $200 rtr with 2 4200's. Not a bad deal with broken rear body posts. Just gotta find a place to buy them.
You don't just buy RPM body mounts. Their body mounts are specific to their shock towers, but their towers are pretty much bulletproof and the whole shebang is only 16 bucks. The sell extended body mounts seperately...don't want you buying those thinking they'll work and then wondering how the hell to mount them.

sienna
01-20-2007, 09:13 PM
I see that HPI has released their E-Savage trucks. I was about to purchase the E-Maxx, but should I consider the E-Savage. The E-Savage trucks are slightly smaller in dimension, but does include 7-cell batteries and charger. Anyone out there care to compare these two trucks? Basically, which one would you buy?

metalry101
01-21-2007, 01:27 AM
I see that HPI has released their E-Savage trucks. I was about to purchase the E-Maxx, but should I consider the E-Savage. The E-Savage trucks are slightly smaller in dimension, but does include 7-cell batteries and charger. Anyone out there care to compare these two trucks? Basically, which one would you buy?
It includes 6 cell batteries.

Honestly, out of the box, I'd say the E-Savage probably has the edge, but the E-Maxx has optional parts available, whereas the E-Savage doesn't, so the E-Maxx definately has more potential.

jocktheglide165
01-21-2007, 10:50 AM
I see that HPI has released their E-Savage trucks. I was about to purchase the E-Maxx, but should I consider the E-Savage. The E-Savage trucks are slightly smaller in dimension, but does include 7-cell batteries and charger. Anyone out there care to compare these two trucks? Basically, which one would you buy?
you enjoy e maxx better.....

tadium54
01-22-2007, 10:30 PM
ill side with the e-maxx

nitro_newbie
01-23-2007, 08:48 PM
well im gunna convert my smaxx to an emaxx and i have my parts list already i still need some more stuff but here is most of it:

LXKWC8 Integy Alloy Front Gear Box Silver E/T-Maxx
LXKWD0 Integy Alloy Rear Gear Box Silver E/T-Maxx
LXJG44 Traxxas Spur Gear 32P 70T Rustler
LXHGL9 W.S. Deans Male Ultra Plug (2)
LXGDU8 W.S. Deans Female Ultra Plug (2)
LXNWS5 Maximizer Aluminum Max Diff Cup w/Mod Traxxas Gear
LXSP77 Traxxas Differential Gear Set T-Maxx
LXBLB8 Novak HV High-Voltage Brushless System 6.5
LXXF42 Traxxas Rod Shift/Servo Horn E-Maxx
LXSP37 Traxxas Bumper Mounts Front & Rear T-Maxx
LXSP10 Traxxas Bearings 6x12x4mm T-Maxx (2)
LXLS00 Traxxas Ball Bearings 10x15x4mm (2)
LX2760 Associated Differential Balls (16)
LXPM35 BRP Axle Shim .250x.309x.014"
LXGPA7 HPI Washer 10x12x0.2mm (10)
LXDEA8 Traxxas Washer Teflon 6x9.5x5 (10) T-Maxx 2.5
LXDLB6 HPI O-Ring 5x8x1.5mm Savage 21 (6)

well im going to buil a good rear diff since my truck is 2 wheel drive i will use the stocker up front shimed in a metal diff case the only thing thats not on there are the 3.3 shafts and revo centers as thosre are on ebay.so is this good and im going to put the hv-maxx in on gp 3300 6 cell packs. so is this good? i want it too be durable and not need any upgrades and i dont like to do ballistic stuff just putt around.thanx
nitro_newbie

generis
01-24-2007, 12:19 PM
i bought a e-sav, and it is really wicked. I would say tougher than an e-maxx, has aluminum braces on ever hinge pin, and front to back type bulkheads which don't break it seems. I have bashed it really hard recently and it is really tough. And fast, wow.. And the included batteries are not lousy at all, they are great and high voltage and charge well. Good buy for anyone.
Emaxxx has more parts available for sure for hopping up, and it's just different. Not better or worse in my opinion, but each does very well at somethings.
My buddy has a Maxx and I bought the Sav, and we have big fun running together, and basically go wherever the other does. Only difference is he has gone through 30 bulkheads it seems.
Both great trucks

Duster_360
01-24-2007, 03:29 PM
....My buddy has a Maxx and I bought the Sav, and we have big fun running together, and basically go wherever the other does. Only difference is he has gone through 30 bulkheads it seems.
Both great trucks

Tell him to try the 3.3 bulks, they're supposed to be improved.

metalry101
01-28-2007, 03:59 PM
So about those aluminum transmission shafts...don't both running them with brushless. Seriously. This is what's left of the output shaft in my transmission after less than 5 minutes of running with the Novak 6.5 system.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx11.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx10.jpg

metalry101
01-28-2007, 04:01 PM
Forgot to add...one thing Traxxas makes that does work well...the wheelie bar and ball bearing supported aluminum wheels. It looks badass and it works really well. I highly recommend it for street running. :)

Duster_360
01-28-2007, 08:57 PM
Wow, that makes me glad I went to the expense to get a set of UE TI centers!

I'm planning on going BL too, but have a lot of decisions to make before I get there.

metalry101
01-28-2007, 10:55 PM
Wow, that makes me glad I went to the expense to get a set of UE TI centers!

I'm planning on going BL too, but have a lot of decisions to make before I get there.
The MIP CVD's held up fine. The output shaft of the transmission is actually what broke.

generis
01-29-2007, 12:22 PM
Aluminum output shaft would never work. I made stainless steel spools for my e-sav and they twisted severely, and are much more durable than al.
Why do they make these things??

GT Freak
01-29-2007, 12:34 PM
glad im NOT going BL in my maxx...:D

Duster_360
01-29-2007, 01:31 PM
The MIP CVD's held up fine. The output shaft of the transmission is actually what broke.

My bad, didn't pay enough attention! Were you using stock drive pin?

metalry101
01-29-2007, 11:35 PM
My bad, didn't pay enough attention! Were you using stock drive pin?
The CVD's don't use the stock pins. They've just got set screws on each side of the drive cups that grab the flat sides of the shaft.

generis
01-30-2007, 09:03 AM
Aluminum gets harder and more brittle when bent or pressed. If you screwed your setscrews too hard to hold on the cvd you could have caused the aluminum to weaken significantly and caused your own failure.. Interesting the back shaft is still good.

metalry101
01-30-2007, 11:56 AM
Aluminum gets harder and more brittle when bent or pressed. If you screwed your setscrews too hard to hold on the cvd you could have caused the aluminum to weaken significantly and caused your own failure.. Interesting the back shaft is still good.
I suppose that's possible, but shouldn't Traxxas have considered that when they designed the part? The stock center driveshafts don't last long if you drive hard, especially with 14 cells and/or BL, so CVD's were the obvious upgrade. The Traxxas brand CV's might use the pin so that you don't have to sandwich that shaft like that, but the Maxx has been out 7 or 8 years now and they're just now getting their metal drive axles to the market so they had to expect that people were going to put CVD's on it, and if you've used CVD's before, you know if you don't clamp on those set screws with everything you've got, and locktite them, they come out very quicly. I think the stock set-pin would be a better design...but I use what's available, and right now that's only MIP. You may very well be right that I caused it, but I still blame poor design/poor materials choice. Why not make it out of titanium or something?

As for the back shaft...I assume you mean the output shaft broke on the front output? It's actually the rear the broke. Right now my E-Maxx is front wheel drive.

Duster_360
01-30-2007, 01:32 PM
UE went with the opposing set screw design for all their drive cups so you can be assured testing showed that was the strongest way to put it together.
Their instructions do call for progressive tightening rather than just gorilla torque on one side and then the other. I suspect your shaft had a small flaw that when stressed caused the break.

generis
01-30-2007, 03:51 PM
Like I said, earlier, why make a center drive out of aluminum, it is not strong enough.. It just isnt. Bad on Traxxas for making them, and I hope they read this. They shouldn't be marketing weak parts for tough trucks.

metalry101
01-30-2007, 11:57 PM
UE went with the opposing set screw design for all their drive cups so you can be assured testing showed that was the strongest way to put it together.
Their instructions do call for progressive tightening rather than just gorilla torque on one side and then the other. I suspect your shaft had a small flaw that when stressed caused the break.
I do the progressive tightening thing, but I'm sure cranking on the aluminum wasn't very good for it. In the end, aluminum is just not the right material for that shaft. I'll throw the stock steel shaft back in there and I don't think I'll ever have a problem.

nitro_newbie
01-31-2007, 12:09 AM
do the e-maxxes have the new 3.3 hubssa nd cases?

metalry101
01-31-2007, 12:09 AM
do the e-maxxes have the new 3.3 hubssa nd cases?
Nope.

nitro_newbie
01-31-2007, 12:26 AM
darn. well i cant decide im going to get yet another truck and i wonder which is a better deal an emaxx or the e-savage?

nitro_newbie
01-31-2007, 12:59 AM
HV-Maxx will do ok. Or you can go with one of my E-Savage specials (works great in E-Maxx as well).

how does this do in the e-savage? is it reliable? is it like economy based? do you have any speed test? this is very interesting. e-savage looks cool too.

bashin Maxxer15
01-31-2007, 03:13 PM
The HV-Maxx won't fit in the E-Savage without modifacations......

hyperstang
02-04-2007, 12:14 AM
Just a little trim on the TVP's and she should fit right in..

BIGDADDYV
02-04-2007, 12:35 AM
I have just joined the ranks of the Emaxx owners of the world ..... I havent had a chance to run it because of snow but form what I have done with it I love it ..... I was wondering if any of you can shed a bit of light as to what I may "NEED" for it ... I have already ordered a cs704 servo from hobby people, but i was really wondering is there anything that is actually needed besides a stronger servo ..... I was thingning chassis braces and some skid plates but where to find them at the best price is also a bit of a mystery ... Thanks in advance... Big V

sobe164
02-04-2007, 04:43 AM
Whats up every one, i have been trying for a long time to get a video, and well i finaly got a video of me breaking the rear bulk heads..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h73XxNljTgE

tadium54
02-04-2007, 11:57 AM
vince- aluminum skid plates, aluminum bulks and titanium hingepins should be all you need

BIGDADDYV
02-04-2007, 02:15 PM
Thanks Taylor .. it took me long enough to get one HUH .... LOL ... Now I am here I cant turn back .... Any place better than the next to find this stuff ????

tadium54
02-04-2007, 09:58 PM
i havent had a problem with integy bulkheads. i think lunsford are the only ones who make tianium hingepins. as for skids, i have a set of dynamite ones i think

BIGDADDYV
02-04-2007, 10:00 PM
I just ordered a set of Fusions from their website ... I got the whole sha-bang ( skids front and rear and chassis braces and center plate for 55 shipped in blue ) ... I figure for that rice I cant go wrong really .... Thanks again Bear Mauler ;) I will check into the bulkheads soon ....

tadium54
02-04-2007, 11:53 PM
no prob. if you have any problems, ask me or metalty- hes the vat of information on here. hes got the maddd skillz lol

cooleocool
02-05-2007, 06:16 AM
I finally got mine back together yesterday. I took it apart months ago to install a new, scratch build, tranny and I did a bunch of other stuff. My suspension arms were binding, so I did some sanding and freed that up... Lots of little detail tuning and cleaning...

Still have to break in the tranny before I can get some action shots though.

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/7457/emaxxfeb42007gi1.jpg

tadium54
02-05-2007, 05:57 PM
nice ride

cooleocool
02-05-2007, 06:34 PM
I'll post these here too I guess...

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/360/emaxxfeb52007001tp5.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/4379/emaxxfeb52007002xv8.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/2931/emaxxfeb52007003uu5.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/8718/emaxxfeb52007004sh0.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/7497/emaxxfeb52007008ny0.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/4816/emaxxfeb52007006gm1.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/6684/emaxxfeb52007007rq1.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/5173/emaxxfeb52007005ou7.jpg

cooleocool
02-05-2007, 06:34 PM
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2654/emaxxfeb52007snowrun001rc3.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8900/emaxxfeb52007snowrun002ot6.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3711/emaxxfeb52007snowrun003tf7.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8523/emaxxfeb52007snowrun005jq0.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7008/emaxxfeb52007snowrun006uo3.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2695/emaxxfeb52007snowrun007oq7.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3417/emaxxfeb52007snowrun008jd5.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9686/emaxxfeb52007snowrun009ux5.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6064/emaxxfeb52007snowrun010yy3.jpg

Bustin' through the snowbank!
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8923/emaxxfeb52007snowrun011dq6.jpg

cooleocool
02-05-2007, 06:36 PM
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6017/emaxxfeb52007snowrun012hl1.jpg

Find the e-maxx...
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4853/emaxxfeb52007snowrun013xp2.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/1659/emaxxfeb52007snowrun014pz4.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3265/emaxxfeb52007snowrun015mi3.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4517/emaxxfeb52007snowrun016ab7.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7465/emaxxfeb52007snowrun017zg6.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6720/emaxxfeb52007snowrun018px6.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3017/emaxxfeb52007snowrun019to7.jpg

As usual, I did the camera work myself, while driving :cool:.

bashin Maxxer15
02-06-2007, 12:41 PM
Your tires kinda look like they still have that red color from mulch Tom....

GT Freak
02-07-2007, 10:37 AM
has anyone ever tried climbing gravel with there maxx?? its fun.

bashin Maxxer15
02-07-2007, 12:25 PM
has anyone ever tried climbing gravel withthere maxx?? its fun.Yeah, once.....It is pretty fun.....

GT Freak
02-08-2007, 08:40 AM
i like that and MUD RUNS the best. :teacher:

metalry101
02-08-2007, 11:32 AM
i like that and MUD RUNS the best. :teacher:
You mean like this? :D

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx7.jpg

Oh...and I'll have finished pics of my Maxx with all of the upgrades I listed a few pages back installed posted tonight. There are a couple pieces left to install, and I put the stock lower shaft back in the trans...and maybe mount the new basher body.

GT Freak
02-08-2007, 12:17 PM
OH YEAAAAAAAAA....bet it was hella fun
half fun= mud run
half fun=clean-up
stock chevrons would have made a better mess tho :D
cant wait til spring....

metalry101
02-09-2007, 12:14 AM
As promised, here are some pics from today's running. The first pic is a completed pic minus body.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx12.jpg


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx13.jpg


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx14.jpg


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx15.jpg


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/emaxx16.jpg


Oh ya...almost forgot to mention, nuked the 2nd gear idler after about 3 feet. Thankfully first gear held together for an entire battery pack, and now the trans is back up and running, for the time being anyways.

tadium54
02-09-2007, 12:33 AM
nice pics ry! man, i can't wait till the bash, should be a ton of fun. oh, if anyone doesn't know what the bash is, check out the general discussion fourm

metalry101
02-09-2007, 12:38 AM
And here are some pics of another one of my electric monster trucks that saw some action today.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/Twin%20Force/force6.jpg


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/Twin%20Force/force9.jpg


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q68/metalry101/RC/Twin%20Force/force12.jpg

generis
02-09-2007, 11:32 AM
what is that last truck?

bashin Maxxer15
02-09-2007, 04:32 PM
I think it's a Kyosho Twin Force......

Here's what my E-maxx looked like after a somewhat recent mud run :D .

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/steelerfan_2006/100_0930.jpg

Jeepin79
02-09-2007, 06:34 PM
New to E-Maxx - looking at buying a used/great condition one from guy at work after I test drive it next week. How many versions/generations for the E-maxx are there? This one is several years old and I want to make sure I am getting something I can get parts & extras for. Not looking to race, just for fun use. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks

nitro_newbie
02-09-2007, 06:36 PM
tose cars are dirty. metalray how is the emaxx holding up to the hv-maxx?

BIGDADDYV
02-09-2007, 08:53 PM
New to E-Maxx - looking at buying a used/great condition one from guy at work after I test drive it next week. How many versions/generations for the E-maxx are there? This one is several years old and I want to make sure I am getting something I can get parts & extras for. Not looking to race, just for fun use. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks


I just got mine last week but I am pretty certian that most of the parts from older to newer are interchangable ..... I could be wrong :confused:

tadium54
02-09-2007, 09:29 PM
suspension arms and axels arent interchangeable with the gen 1 e-maxxs. everything else is i think

metalry101
02-09-2007, 11:27 PM
tose cars are dirty. metalray how is the emaxx holding up to the hv-maxx?
So far I've nuked the "upgraded" aluminum lower output shaft on the transmission (I put the stock steel one back in and don't expect any further problems), and I blew up the idler gear for second gear, so I'll probably buy the UE hardended steel ones soon. Other than that it's held up. I think I need to loosen up my slipper a little bit.


what is that last truck?
Like bashin_Maxxer said, it's a Kyosho Twin Force. It's way more fun than a stock E-Maxx IMO. I highly suggest it!

sienna
02-10-2007, 01:11 AM
I'm new to the Emaxx and have a question. Can the Emaxx be run without the cover that goes over the slipper clutch and the gears from the twin motors? Of course I won't be using it in mud or snow and, for now, I only run it in short dry grass. I figure I want to keep a close eye on the slipper clutch so I can always keep in adjusted.

metalry101
02-10-2007, 01:32 AM
I'm new to the Emaxx and have a question. Can the Emaxx be run without the cover that goes over the slipper clutch and the gears from the twin motors? Of course I won't be using it in mud or snow and, for now, I only run it in short dry grass. I figure I want to keep a close eye on the slipper clutch so I can always keep in adjusted.
Yes, you can run it without that cover for a little while. The gears shouldn't have too many problems being exposed, but the motor and battery wires could get sucked into the gears, which wouldn't be real pretty, so you'll want to make sure you zip-tie or otherwise secure them somewhere else.

bashin Maxxer15
02-10-2007, 08:17 AM
I would'nt suggest running without the gear cover, yes, it is possible, but there is the chance of the wires getting caught up or if a pinion comes loose, you'll probably lose it.....

GT Freak
02-10-2007, 12:27 PM
WWWWHHHEEEEEEEE, mud fun for all......
just GAVE away my spare e-maxx roller to my gf's brother...feels good.

hurry up spring!!! :D

BTE214
02-10-2007, 03:49 PM
Just finished putting together my used maxx. I ran into one problem though, my steering servo has like 1cm of steering each way. I have the stock TQ radio so endpoint adjusment is out. The servo and reciever is new so I'm stumped.

BTE214
02-10-2007, 10:43 PM
Nevermind found out what was wrong. The pivot ball caps were too tight on the pivot balls causing alot of binding.

hyperstang
02-11-2007, 10:40 PM
Couldn't get an Twin Force..

I don't want to spend to much for the kit, so I got a deal from here for an Emaxx..

Have the HV on order and she is ready to come in.

Can't wait to get her running...