E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[hyper-7 44]

I want to put 40 series Velocity 6 rims and Big Joe tires on my new emaxx. Should I change any of my stock gearing? Also, do any of you know how good Associated's Factory Team shocks are on a new emaxx? Thanks.

[TC3 Benjammin]

The AE shocks are absolute CRAP. Your better offf keeping the stock shocks. Get the dyna/losis.

[Lord Radeon]

Drop two pinion teeth for the joe's

[hyper-7 44]

Thanx. I'll look around for a different set of shocks to get

[super_maxx]

whats the stock gearing??

[Lord Radeon]

18/66 is stock

[Soya v1.1]

You also might want to get some new axles, because those big tires are hell on driveshafts.

[hyper-7 44]

thanx ill keep spare axles

[2.5 guy]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
Ouch! Blew some shocks this weekend.

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1024257/1913124/24616544.jpg

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1024257/1913124/24616534.jpg

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1024257/1913124/24616482.jpg

Got the Dynamite/Losi shocks on the way from Stormer. Should be the much needed improvement that I so desperately need.

Boy, those stock shocks really suck. :mad:

Least I have an excuse to upgrade them though. :D

my computer won't let me see the pics:mad:

[TC3 Benjammin]

Not your computer's fault - my Picturtrail account was disabled. :rolleyes:

:)

[2.5 guy]

could you e-mail me the pics then please:D

[2.5 guy]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
Not your computer's fault - my Picturtrail account was disabled. :rolleyes:

:)

does it happen to u a lot?

[TC3 Benjammin]

Unless you upgrade your account (have to pay), your free account is deleted after 30 days, or something.

What's your e-mail address? I clicked on the email button on your profile, but I wasn't able to attach the pics.

[Lord Radeon]

Parting out my truck. check the Buy/sell/trade forum if there's any pieces you want

[Soya v1.1]

I'll give you an IOU for the motor;) :(

[2.5 guy]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
Unless you upgrade your account (have to pay), your free account is deleted after 30 days, or something.

What's your e-mail address? I clicked on the email button on your profile, but I wasn't able to attach the pics.

I PMed u my address

[powertrip]

That would be a total of 16 cells??

Okay.. so i got some cheap 7 cell batteries for my emaxx from batteryspace.com before.. yes they are cheap but they have served me well and still running strong.. anyways, they sell 8-cell packs over there for the emaxx.. SHOULD I GET THIS or should i just stick w/ the 7-cells?


What are people's opinion on these batteries anyways??I'm pretty happy w/ the batteries myself... all i do is bash around.. oh.. for reference, i ran against my buddy w/ his 6 cell GP3300 matched pack and mine just totally blew his car.

[Lord Radeon]

any 7 cell pack will beat any 6 cell pack 99% of the time. That's a given. But 8 cells is overkill, and your evx will die. Too hot. Generic batteries are generic batteries. Lower voltage, higher IR, lower runtime. But for the price, you cant beat them if that's what your happy with. Personally I'll take the matched packs any day. It's worth the xtra few bucks it costs for the longevity and performance. There really is no comparison

[Soya v1.1]

Yes, there really isn't any comparison for matched batts. I can attest to that (SMC 2400's).

[powertrip]

=).. yeah i guess i'm just being cheap.. i was really thinking of building my own... but no cashola so i guess i'll just buy these ones again... they're really not too bad.. just generic...

[TeamMishap]

Ordered my Hacker stuff. B50 12S and Master Car Comp. Yahoo!

Ran the Torpedo chassis through the ringer this past week. Big jumps of fun.

My battery soldering sucks. I broke 4 packs. Also discovered the difference between a $5 Radio Shank soldering iron and a $15 jobber with a nice chisel tip. Night and day. Makes me wanna buy some GP3300s and build packs.

[scottyf]

I'm selling a UE center dogbone in the sellin' forum if you are interested.....

[TeamMishap]

AC world sent my Hacker order out express from Japan. They are top notch in customer service. Why I ever dealt with RumRunner, I'll never know.

Anyone here running a torpedo chassis? Seems like it's a little flexy around the steering servo. Anyone else notice this?

[Lord Radeon]

all chassis' are flexy arond there. I could torque the carbon fiber on my old chassy with my servo. And CF is the stiffest stuff out there

[anothermbdusted]

i got the torpedo chassi also and yes it does flex a little bit...the part i dont like is that my 358 servo dont fit perfectly in it its too small so its hanging on by two ears and a make shift support for the other side of the ears.any ways its still in the works but its getting there slowly but surly.....not pretty yet lol

[tamiyadude]

1. Do the new E-maxxes that are available now come with the same widemaxx suspension as the new T-maxx???? I've come across conflicting info on this.

2. If I get an E-maxx this week... it will basically drain my R/C money down to zero.... I am fine on dual chargers and have plenty of batteries, but the fact is, if I get an e-maxx it will have to remain 100% stock for atleast 6-8 weeks. Will it be even remotely fun in 100% stock form???

3. This is a weird question, but gonna ask anyway... how are these trucks as far as wheel wobble? I will do some (but not all) running on pavement and wondered how true a good set of on-road maxx tires would run. I can't stand wheel wobble on pavement and all the vibration you get with some r/c's being worse than others.

thanks

[anothermbdusted]

I dont know about all places but my lhs carries all the traxxas stuff and his are all the wide maxx stuff so they must be only wide now...

will it be fun in stock form yes it will be youll enjoy it im sure quite a bit and if you get bored with the wheelies and the jumping at that speed put in a 7th cell and it makes it alot more exciting...

Im not sure what you mean by wheel wobble but im guessing you mean drifting or not centering correctly? if so I havent notice anything personally but then again i have a high speed servo in it also and not the stock one...

as far as tires go plan on about 40$ for a set of four

[tamiyadude]

Thanks for the fast reply!

[Lord Radeon]

1. Yes, they all have the wide suspension+beefier driveshafts

2. It's loads of fun. AFter that 6-8 weeks you'll just start to be able to drive it to it's potential. It's a beast!

3. The maxx wheels CAN wobble a good bit. Biggest reason is water in the tire, simply because the foams are so large. For a true set of ONROAD tires, I suggest the "big joe" tires from pro-line. The road rage tread is the same height as a normal maxx road rage tire, only with a BIG rim and SMALL sidewall, taking out 80% of the wheel flex and wobble. Have fun

[TeamMishap]

I need some info from the March 2003 RCCA body shop section. Anyone keep their back issues. Figures the one I toss is always the one I need. LOL

[tamiyadude]

Lord Radeon, thanks for the reply!

[tamiyadude]

I've been in r/c for 14 years but I'm not at all up to date about the maxx trucks... two more quick questions.

1. Other than the fact it feels/looks like a toy... does the stock radio work very well? Have very good range? Many problems?

2. School me on the evx as far as reliability... any of them trouble free? What is the common problems they have with them?

Thank you and appreciate your patience with the maxxtarded questions :D

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by tamiyadude
2. Will it be even remotely fun in 100% stock form???

The most fun I've ever had with my maxx is when it was stock. Traxxas really did a great job.

[TeamMishap]

Though it does feel hinky in the hand, I've never had a problem with the radio.

No probs with the EVX either.

Ever since I got my Maxx, I've hardly touched my Evader. It's a fun toy. VERY upgradable. I really don't think you'll be disappointed in stock form. I still enjoy the snot out of it...and will enjoy it even more once my Hacker BL stuff comes in :)

[big2wons]

Hi everyone,

I'm wondering if the 40 series tires fit on the imex jumbo rims? does anyone know? i like the big joes but i also like the imex wheels better..

[super_maxx]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
I need some info from the March 2003 RCCA body shop section. Anyone keep their back issues. Figures the one I toss is always the one I need. LOL

i have that mag! whats your email ill scan the pages!

[TeamMishap]

Already found out what blues I needed. Thanks.

Painted my new bod last night. Fascent blue marbling, backed with spraypaint plue, two silver stripes midline across the top. I wanted to Alclad the stripes, but LHS didn't have the spray kind. Looks pretty good.

Can't wait to destroy this one and paint another. (Don't tell my wife I said that)

[TeamMishap]

How in the heck do I solder on these gold bullet connectors???

[Lord Radeon]

Hehe, bullets are a bit tricky. Here's how they work. First, tin the wire to be soldered onto VERY WELL. then slip the bullet over once it's cool. Next, heat up the bullet with the soldering iron, and stick solder in through the hole at the base of the bullet connector. Eventually, the solder will melt, and will bond the bullet to the wire. Takes practice, but make sure you have a STRONG bond and all is good.

[TeamMishap]

Thanks bro.

I ruined one of the male plugs. UUUgh! Somehow I got solder in the webbing of the tip, now it won't compress into the female end. #&@%!

[Lord Radeon]

Been there, done that :rolleyes:. Just pick up 10 or 15 of the bullets to keep around. They're inexpensive

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by big2wons
Hi everyone,

I'm wondering if the 40 series tires fit on the imex jumbo rims? does anyone know? i like the big joes but i also like the imex wheels better..

No, the 40 series wheels are bigger than the Imex's.

[TeamMishap]

Finally done with my E-maxx. Can't wait to play with it!

[2.5 guy]

awesome :D

[metalry101]

Tamiyadude~
Yes, all new E-Maxxes come w/ the WideMaxx suspension and beefier drivetrains, and a completely stock E-Maxx is a helluva lot of fun to say the least. Just make sure you keep the slipper pretty tight, and just generally take care of it so you maintain maximum performance. As for the stock radio and EVX; the radio is cheap, but it works well. The EVX probably will fry on you sooner or later, but then again, maybe not. I've fried mine 3 times, but some people have never fried theirs. DON'T GET IT WET though, I promise you that will fry it. And, for wheel wobble, Lord Radeon was definately right, make sure the foams stay dry, and keep the rims and tires clean or they will get out of balance and wobble a lot, but when new, everything works pretty well. Stuff will develop more play as it gets used, but any truck does that. Hope this helps a bit.

[TeamMishap]

Here's what it looks like under the hood

[TeamMishap]

I'm playing with my Maxx in the street and got a little grabby on the brake. My Maxx flies up in the air, does a nice forward flip, and slides wheels up for about ten feet - filleting my antenna.

How long is the stock antenna?

What gauge wire is it?

And how in the heck to I get the circuit board up off the plastic bottom to solder in a new one?

Thanks.

(This BL stuff is so fun with quality products! Hacker stuff actually comes in a retail box, not a dime bag sized ziploc with a sticker on it like Lehner)

[anothermbdusted]

teamishap the stock one is about 22 1/2 inches long and you can pick up a new one at your lhs for like 3$ i dont know what guage it is sorry but as for the receiver itself on my jr one i had to repace i just took out the 4 screws holding it and then i had to pop it out of the case and then resolder where it snapped off..good luck and make sure your gun has a nice pointy tip on it for soldering and is HOT as the board will damage easily im sure you know..

[tamiyadude]

How many of you guys run a wheelie bar on your e-maxx? I would think it makes a big difference in protecting your body, does it?

thanks
-TB

[tamiyadude]

metalry101, thanks for answering my questions a few replies up!

[Lord Radeon]

stock antenna wire is 22 guage i believe.

TeamMishap: Get used to the grabby brake. Brushless systems are just like that on a heavy truck like the maxx. Especially in mid-air. Grab it and youll do several front flips :)

[TeamMishap]

My LHS was out of antenna wire. I used a wire out of an old mouse (four antenna wires in one length of mouse wire hehehe). The wire was a little skinny, but it works fine.

I was eventually able to pry out the circuit board from the bottom of the case. I tore off some little tiny dohicky labeled C1 on the circuit board. Probably not a good thing, but it ran flawlessly without it. I've heard the board is glued in, but it's just press fit very tightly in the bottom of the case.

[Lord Radeon]

A shameless plug here, I've got some more stuff for sale.

Hitec 5945mg servo. 180 oz/in @ .13 sec. $70 shipped
Reedy Quasar Charger $70 shipped
Full set mounted mulchers w/ 2 stage foam $35 shipped

[TeamMishap]

I can't get my E to not jump without nosing forward. I've got no spacers on the shocks. Most of my weight is towards the back, so much that the back end is slightly lower than the front when sitting still. I try blipping the throttle to bring it up, but the danged thing noses over every time.

How are the physics possible when the CG is rear of center?

[Lord Radeon]

Trim your throttle forwards

[Lord Radeon]

Also, you want your back end slightly higher then front from a standstill.

[TC3 Benjammin]

I have to stay on the throttle for the entire jump or mine will nose-dive. Try it.

[TeamMishap]

Thanks. I'll try it. Gonna hit the track for the first time ever tonight I think. Look out Tower, I feel a big order coming on.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Carnage!

Just broke my first pair of axles today! :D

I replaced them with the 2.5 sliders. They were only 8 bucks so I figured what the hay. The ones I had on there were from an older (non-wide) E-Maxx, so they snapped pretty violently.

Sure is a BIG difference running 14 cells! I love it. :p

[TeamMishap]

My E worked pretty well on the track. No problems nose overing at all. Thanks for the advice. Only got to play a few minutes. That Hacker B50 gets hot quick. I need to figure out how to cool that mother off.

[Lord Radeon]

You wont be able to. The b50s are known to get hot as all hell when they run. A heatsink would help, but it's still going to be scorching hot.

[TeamMishap]

I haven't had it to 100 degrees celcius yet (spit doesn't sizzle ), but it's hotter than two Mississippi.

I'm gonna get the B50 heatsink and take the Dremel to it and hopefully that'll help some. I'm afraid I'll cook the danged thing, as the mags freak out somewhere just over 100 degrees. Are all BL motors on a Maxx this hot?

[Lord Radeon]

Do NOT dremel the case of the B50. It's extremely thin as is. Just buy a heatsink. The Tc3 heatsinks work well. The mags dont freak out until ~400 degrees. They're not an issue. Neodymium is a very robust material as far as heat goes, dont worry about the magnets. All BL motors get hot in a single setup, but the B50 s series get the hottest of any of them that I've personally seen.

[TeamMishap]

I was going to Dremel the Hacker B50 Heatsink, not the motor itself. The B50 heat sink is a separate item, it totally encircles the motor, you just slide it on. I was going to hack a couple fins off so it would fit.

From the Hacker instructions that came with my motor:

"Hacker motors are designed for operating temps of up to 110C/230F. Temps exceeding this level can lead to motor damage and should be avoided."

I figure is spit sizzles, it's too hot. I haven't sizzled yet, so I guess I've been fine. I do need a heatsink though.

So where'd you hear 400 degrees?

[Soya v1.1]

My B50 never got hot. Hmmm.

[TeamMishap]

SOYA: You had a single B50 in an E and it never got hot? Wow. I'm running 18/70 gear ratio, 12 cells in series, with a Master Comp set at 60 amps (BEC disabled), timing 1, frequency 1. My mugger gets HOT. Never hit 100 degrees C yet, so I guess I'm OK. Guess I should run it until spit sizzles then stop.

[Soya v1.1]

My controller got pretty hot, but never the motor. Speaking of controllers, anybody have one they'd like to sell? I am currently without a running RC:(

[Lord Radeon]

I think hacker's heat recommendations have more to do with the incredible resistance in the motor then the magnets. Ive worked with neo magnets before and they're well safe to over 400 degrees.

[TeamMishap]

I've got some RPM clawz and I cored out a hub with the stock plastic hex. Isn't it usually the hex nut that gets rounded out?

Why does this happen? Was the wheel not bolted on tight enough?

Think I'll just CA the hex into the hub and order a new hub nut set. Do aluminum hexs offer any advantages?

[Lord Radeon]

usually its the wheel that rounds. Not the hex. You can CA the hexes in for now. They round from usually not being tight enough. Use TWO locknuts on your wheels, and it wont ever be a problem again. Aluminum hexes are much better to use, because they stay tighter against the wheel and lesses the odds of rounding a hex.

[super_maxx]

testing for pic (this it my old emaxx)http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=FD1SLGGKUGS92GF000N0S4QWFD Q8BUP6

[super_maxx]

[url]http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=FD1SLGGKUGS92GF000N0S4QWFD Q8BUP6[url]

[super_maxx]

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=FD1SLGGKUGS92GF000N0S4QWFD Q8BUP6

[super_maxx]

sorry guys i cant do it

[^j!nx^]

Hey,

first post on this thread :D

I want to make my emaxx a little faster. I am currently running 3000mah packs. WOuld it be better to upgrade the motors or run 14 cells? Also if i upgrade the motors do they have to be 550's? or can it run 540's?

[Lord Radeon]

I'll speak from a lot of experience. Don't bother touching the motors unless your going brushless. Just upgrade to 14 cells

[scottyf]

If you run 7-cell packs, you will be really happy with the results. Those packs really give the Emaxx a serious boost in low-end torque! Wheelies are too easy -- you have to learn some restrain! (top speed 29.6)

If you want to get a similar boost in performance, then get a couple of Magnetic Mayhems (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXW928&P=7) and replace the stock Titans. I only ran these with 6-cell packs, but they were every bit as fast as the Titans on 7-cells. The real bonus is that you can take them apart and maintain them, unlike the Titans. (top speed 29.4)

Finally, if you want to get crazy, go brushless with one Hacker c50 and Master Sport Controller (http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars/otd/emax_otd.shtml). You will have to beef up your differentials, your cvd's and get a set of steel idler gears from Unlimited Engineering, but with this setup, you can hit 40+ mph. This is what I am currently running, and while I am satisfied and a little bit frightend with this absolutely insane amount of power (when you shift into second gear, you can get wheelies! Almost uncontrollable!), some go as far as to run two C50s.

Remember, in all cases, zapped batteries will give you the best performance. Invest in a good charger and a few sets of matched batteries (ProMatch Racing(http://www.promatchracing.com/main.htm) has GP3300's -- (6)1.16 matched cells for $50 and (7)1.16 matched cells for $58).

Sorry for going on so long....

[super_maxx]

heres a pic of my old maxx!

[Archerboi]

Has anyone tried running a E-Maxx with one modified motor, like a 17-14 turn with a lower gear ratio and 1 battery pack? I am just looking for a good offroad 4 wheel drive truck with allot of power and long runtime thats RTR.

[1 Bad STi]

Team Orion Super Duty Plus 3000 Battery Packs has anyone used these or does anyone know if these packs are good?

[super_maxx]

none of those sport 3000s are any good just save your money and get some match packs!:D

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by Archerboi
Has anyone tried running a E-Maxx with one modified motor, like a 17-14 turn with a lower gear ratio and 1 battery pack? I am just looking for a good offroad 4 wheel drive truck with allot of power and long runtime thats RTR.

Maxx is too heavy for a single motor thats not brushless. Try an HPI MT

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by 1 Bad STi
Team Orion Super Duty Plus 3000 Battery Packs has anyone used these or does anyone know if these packs are good?

Build two 6 or 7 packs of GP3300s. You can get unmatched GP3300s for $5 a cell. These are MUCH better the Super Doodies...fecal pun intended. One pack of the Super Doodies fried on my first run in a darned Evader. GO GP!

[1 Bad STi]

suggestions for matched stick packs please...... Thanks!

[scottyf]

"Remember, in all cases, zapped batteries will give you the best performance. Invest in a good charger and a few sets of matched batteries (ProMatch Racing(http://www.promatchracing.com/main.htm) has GP3300's -- (6)1.16 matched cells for $50 and (7)1.16 matched cells for $58)".

This was posted only 7 posts ago....same page and everything....

[Archerboi]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Maxx is too heavy for a single motor thats not brushless. Try an HPI MT

Ok, it was a idea. ;)

[1 Bad STi]

thanks for the reply on batteries, i was looking at these, whats your guys call

SMC Gold Peak 3300 NiMH Matched Stick Pack 6-Cell

look (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCZV9&P=0)

[JTracer]

ok, ive decided to buy an E-maxx, im goin to buy it off of ebay, (good idea ? or not) but, im looking towards spenind 200-250 dollars would this be enough for a good max, what should i look for, what should i ask ? im looking to purchase one in the next 10 days or sooner so, help me out friends

[anothermbdusted]

First off who make some strong titanium skid plates for the front and rear of the emaxx?im almost done with my maxx and i need these along with the diffs and im done i think..

JTracer:what do you consider a good maxx? for that price to be honest with you you will get something a little better then stock is all....this isnt a pitch or anything but i would try and buy from here on rcca to be honest as you will know the price up front...i have a emaxx also for sale its the old narrow style in almost perfect condition and its got the proline conversion and 2 bodies and some extra parts like plastic bulks, skids ,drive lines ,chassi and it even comes with a new esc directly from traxxas and ill trough in a few extra plastic shocks and if i get my diffs soon then ill send you a extra set also front and rear...email me for a picture if you wish

[JTracer]

cool !!! i was looking for something nearly stock that i can sup up how much are you wanting for yours does it come with batteries, i was hoping i wouldnt have to buy any, if not its ok, umm, do you have hot mail ? im very interested post back with your email

[anothermbdusted]

you got mail and no it dont come with batteries...sorry

[JTracer]

where did you send the mail too ? lol, is there a way you can recieve mail through rcca ?, cause i checked to see if i got an email from you through my tts, well the one i told you, and nothing there, and i checked hot mail and nother there, hehe where did it go ?

[anothermbdusted]

i sent it to the one rcca has on the button below your name ill send you a IM and it will have my email k

[Skribble]

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=wcb3310

World Class Batts. 6 GP3300 loose cells. Matched. 380-399 seconds, $37. Not bad .. Buy four of those, then buy the same batteries but in a 4 cell pack (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=wcb3314) and you'd have some nice batteries ..

[1 Bad STi]

Gentlemen, are these packs any good?



you comments please... ThanksGP3300's (http://**************/ws/*******************************3138445776&category=2565)

[1 Bad STi]

http://**************/ws/*******************************3138445776&category=2565

[1 Bad STi]

http://**************/ws/*******************************3138855813&category=2565

[1 Bad STi]

Hmm, cant post this link!

[BigBadTahoe]

Hi, I just have a quick question for the E-maxx experts here. What should I do if the driveshaft that is on the rear of the truck keeps coming off of the lttle silver ball that comes out of the bulkhead? I put it on and after 1 quick full throttle pull it flys off, why is this happening? Do you think I should invest in cvds? Help this is really make me mad!:mad: :mad: :mad: :confused:

[Lord Radeon]

Buy a new driveshaft. It it comes off once, it will keep doing so. Just get dogbones or cvds

[TeamMishap]

First off, it was my own danged fault.

I was driving down the road, had two freshly charged packs loose in the back of the van...DUMBDERRIER manuever I know. All the sudden I heard popping and sizzling and seeing smoke. I pop into a convenience store parking lot, throw open the back, grab the batts by the connectors and sling them on the pavement. Charred the daylights out of five of them. I stuck the remaining 7 back together and will have something fun to run in the Evader. Only blackened the carpet...came right off with diaper wipes. It was all quite impressive. Gonna have to order some new batts now.

[Lord Radeon]

D'oh :D

[anothermbdusted]

well heres my truck so far got the aluminum rims in the mail as we speak and will have the bl setup here in about a week cant wait

[super_maxx]

i was wondering if i get this chassis could i run a Side X Side pacKs?

http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=77984062x30724&session=3f1351f44a23cf73&L=eng&P=EX1016FS

[JTracer]

well its not really mine, its mine in 8 days though :D i just bout this beaut off of anothermbdusted, and he gave me an incredible deal :D i cant waiiiitttt to get it, this is the only pic i have but once i get it i will have massive pics, he converted it to widemaxx suspension :D so ill post pics here, btw, anyone know where i can find like a website or a link to ballistic batteries, i think thats the name, i heard they were good and i was thinking of investing in some when i get my emaxx, anyone got a link ? thanx

JTracer

[Lord Radeon]

Ballistic is good, but very overpriced.
www.ballisticbatteries.com

May I direct you to...
www.promatchracing.com

:cool:

[anothermbdusted]

so is everyone having fun driving their emaxx or something or what..its been a while since a post on here..

[Soya v1.1]

My controller is no longer with us, so no, I'm not running it.

[genaow]

I'm going to be ordering my E-MAXX next week. I want to order some really good batteries. at least 2 sets. Do you know if pro-match will preconfigure 7cell batteries to fit the E-MAXX. I don't have much time to be soldering so I' hope they can do it. Also could you recommend for me a good charger to go with these battteries. under $125. I'm not going to be into racing but just want to have a good time in my backyard.

thanks for any advice

[TeamMishap]

The new MRC charger looks good. Has a fan on it and two charging outputs. If this was out a year ago, I probably would have bought it.

[Lord Radeon]

PRomatch can do anything. Good people there :)

[Soya v1.1]

Anything for a price.

[civicds]

I just got a new e-maxx 3 days ago so far I have a PL dodge ram hemi body painted red with white flames, big joe 40 series tires mounted on velocity 6 rims, and rpm crome f/r bumpers. I'll have pics soon. But get this I fried the titans in 2 days. I was driving and then I stopped then I tried to go and the truck wouldn't move I didn't know why then smoke started pouring out from under neath the body. I took the body off and unplugged everything and saw both titans were black inside them. I found out later one motor siezed up and fried the other motor. I just got a new pair of titans today so my truck is running again. But I gotta question what other brushed motors can you get for a e-maxx besides the titans, monster maxx, and bad maxx motors 550 size though?

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by civicds
But I gotta question what other brushed motors can you get for a e-maxx besides the titans, monster maxx, and bad maxx motors 550 size though?

Let Radeon give you a lecture on that one :)

[Lord Radeon]

Talk about beating a dead horse. Someone look up my post from a while back. :-p

[Soya v1.1]

:p

[TeamMishap]

Your controller will fry next, then go BL.

[civicds]

Well I'm not into racing yet therefore I don't see the point of spending $400 on a BL system. Also I talked to a couple guys with e-maxxes that tried the hacker systems and said they sucked.

[Soya v1.1]

A Hacker system that sucked? I doubt it. I had 6 cells on mine, and it still outperformed a stocker.

[TeamMishap]

I have a B50-12S and Master Comp controller by Hacker and love it. If I didn't have an extended chassis, the thing would be almost uncontrollable. I'm going to go to a B50-8S next I think. That'll be a blast!

[Soya v1.1]

What controller do you have?

[thelastd]

Hey guys,

I just wanted to let everyone know about a new site for the E-Maxx.
It just started today E-Maxx.net (http://www.e-maxx.net)

If this is not allowed to be posted here I apologies. Please delete it.

[3nit]

hi,

this may sound childish but in my country this brand is seldom heard off..... how do you pronounce "TRAXXAS"?? =)

thanks,
-3nit

[thelastd]

No Biggie,
It is pronounced TRAXX-ISS

[tamiyadude]

Question for you guys...

I'm getting ready to order my first e-maxx this week. All my batteries, and dischargers, and chargers all have deans ultra plugs installed. When my e-maxx arrives, can I put deans ultra plugs on the EVX? I'm only asking because I thought I heard a long time ago that traxxas would burn you for like $40 fee if you ever send the EVX in for service with anything other than the stock plugs on it. Can someone please clear this up for me? It would be much appreciated.

eric

[ViperStrike]

Very good questions,
I'm interested in knowing the answer too.
I installed Sermos connectors on mine.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by 3nit
hi,

this may sound childish but in my country this brand is seldom heard off..... how do you pronounce "TRAXXAS"?? =)

thanks,
-3nit

I always pronounced it Tracks ass :)

[civicds]

I haven't heard about a $40 fee from traxxas because of different plugs But I heard they won't service it unless you got the stock plugs on it.

[metalry101]

Last time I checked, getting the EVX fixed was 20 dollars plus you had to pay shipping to get it there. If you had anything other than the stock plugs on it, they charged a 25 dollar rewiring fee. I'm assuming this is because it's a pain in the ass for them to change it back to the stock plugs so they can test it. They're not going to have batteries and motors and everything w/ every different kind of plug on it available to test, hence the fee. At least that's my assumption on it. Also, I'm thinking that if you've got 25 bux to upgrade the EVX, your charger, and all your batteries to Deans, then you've got 25 to pay for them to rewire it so they can fix it.

[civicds]

I gotta question it probably was answered earlier in the thread but I'm too lazy to scroll back through all the posts. Well my question is has anyone put a lynx 3D in there e-maxx? I got a lynx 3D lying around and was thinking of putting it in my truck but I wanted to hear some input on other ppl that might have done this.

[kvrc]

i just purchased an e-maxx widemaxx. i still am waiting for it to arrive. my question is, what experiences have you guys had with the upgrade motors like the reedy badmaxx, kyosho mag mayham, and the trinity monster maxxes. i am mainly looking for how they compare to the titans since that is where i will start. such as how much more power, how to gear the different motors and durability. any info you guys can give will be appreciated.

[metalry101]

Stick w/ the stock Titans and run 7 cells. They're more reliable, and on 7 cells, more powerful, or almost as powerful as any of the motors you listed, and they require very little maintenance. If you really want the aftermarket motors, don't get the Kyosho's, they're not designed for 14.4 volts, and as such they won't last w/ that kind of voltage flowin through them. I've heard good and bad things about the Monster Maxx motors. I know Trinity makes damn good motors, but Maxx motors are a bit different, and I've never run these motors, so I don't know. I haven't heard much at all about the Reedy motors, but the little I have heard isn't so good. You could try them though. Personally, I'd stick w/ the Titans. They're performance is good enough, at least in my opinion. Concentrate on other mods, like a better steering servo, better tires and wheels, etc, instead of more power. The E-Maxx has a ridiculous amount of power in stock form. I think you'll be more than happy w/ it's power output.

[Hingepin]

Yeah, the owner of Ballistic Batteries came to my house to fix some 7cells i had ordered, and he said to stick with the titans becuase any other motors brushes would wear down within 30 minutes of running.

[Skribble]

Anyone think XXX Kinwald + Novak TC2 is a good trade for a E-Maxx v.1 + E-Maxx ESC (Name slipped my mind for the moment) + 2 okay 6 cells + 6 of the WideMaxx arms?

Another thing, does everyone who go the BPR route always go Brushless? I haven't seen anyone actually sticking with Titans ..

[metalry101]

Ehh, not a horrible trade, but personally, I'd rather be on the Kinwald/TC2 recieving end of it. The version one truck isn't bad, and the only difference between it and the new one are the suspension arms and shock towers. I think that's all they changed :confused: . If the Maxx is still in good condition, then ya, it's a pretty good trade. I'd personally skip on the WideMaxx suspension and spring for the Pro-Line Maxx Performance Suspension. I run it on my Maxx, and I love it. I haven't broken a thing on it yet, and I've had it for a year or so now. It also comes w/ Titanium turnbuckles, which is always a useful upgrade. The WideMaxx suspension isn't bad, but I think the Pro-Line kit is better. Also, what's BPR???? Also, as for people sticking w/ the Titans, I've had my truck for a year and a half, and I still run the Titans. I've upgraded almost everything else, but I still run the Titans and the EVX.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, i was wondering if the Hacker BL system is the best BL system for the e-maxx. It is very expensive. Is it well worth it?

[Skribble]

Originally posted by metalry101
Ehh, not a horrible trade, but personally, I'd rather be on the Kinwald/TC2 recieving end of it. The version one truck isn't bad, and the only difference between it and the new one are the suspension arms and shock towers. I think that's all they changed :confused: . If the Maxx is still in good condition, then ya, it's a pretty good trade. I'd personally skip on the WideMaxx suspension and spring for the Pro-Line Maxx Performance Suspension. I run it on my Maxx, and I love it. I haven't broken a thing on it yet, and I've had it for a year or so now. It also comes w/ Titanium turnbuckles, which is always a useful upgrade. The WideMaxx suspension isn't bad, but I think the Pro-Line kit is better. Also, what's BPR???? Also, as for people sticking w/ the Titans, I've had my truck for a year and a half, and I still run the Titans. I've upgraded almost everything else, but I still run the Titans and the EVX. It was a display truck for our LHS, then my friend bought it for a parts truck, so it was never used. BPR = http://www.Bomb-ProofProducts.com. They make extended lexan chassis, and are pretty popular with Brushless users. As for motors, I'm going to stick with Titans, and if I do ever step up, it's going to be brushless, but that's far away because of the drivetrain upgrades.

I just got burned out on r/c, and I'm tired of the XXX (Raced friday, lost 1st place due to a broken ballcup, lol). I can't really bash with it, so I only drive it at the track, and I needed to try something new. I had a XXX-T before XXX ..

Does this sound like a good list for general upgrades?

Pro-Line Suspension.
UE Knucklehead Shocktowers.
Ofna SuperShocks; 4.
Aluminum Bulkheads. (ACNCM or GA)
RPM Front & Rear skids.
Race-Bomb Chassis.

Good batteries; Our track is made for 1/10 (Losi, AE, etc). Doesn't 7 cell have more punch?
And another Vortex Zone charger.

[TeamMishap]

I have a Bombproof torpedo chassis and a Hacker BL system. I love them both immensely.

The Topedo pretty much eliminated wheelies and widens the turning radius, but the added stability is well worth it. No rollovers since having it. And it is about bombproof. Here's proof it's kid proof.

I have a Hacker Master Comp controller and a B50-12S. I'm thinking I should have gone with a high amp OPTO controller and a B50-8S or a Lehner 4200XL. Having the Bombproof chassis really increases the Maxx's capabilities in my opinion.

Haven't broken any drivetrain parts since going BL, but I went full MIPs before I put it in.

I highly recommend BP and Hacker in an E.

[Skribble]

Went on the Xtreme site .. Found another BL chassis, heh. http://www.xtremercracing.com/E_Maxx_Parts_and_Accessories.cfm

http://www.xtremercracing.com/Images/BLBSIDE.jpg

Edit: Why 8S instead of 12S? And would kind of speeds would you be able to pull with a 8 cells and a 8S?

[metalry101]

BPR, gotcha. I've heard of Bombproof before. I like their stuff, and if I ever got BL, I'll probably run their Torpedo chassis.

Skribble~
I like your list of mods, but you're probably gonna want to include CVDs, at least for the rear. Also, I don't know anything about those shocks, but you'll probably have run really really heavy springs to keep the truck off the ground, unless you've got a way to lighten it up a lot (i.e. taking out first gear, and the shifting servo, taking off the bumpers, running only the RPM skids, etc) Otherwise 4 shocks won't control the truck well enough for racing, and by your choic of chassis, I'm thinking you want to race it. Also, I don't see why you need the UE shocktowers. Maybe they're more adjustable or something? I don't know. I've never broken anything on my Pro-Line kit equipped Maxx (including shock towers) and my truck probably weighs 12 lbs ready to go w/ the HB tires on it. Maybe you just didn't know the Pro-Line kit comes w/ shock towers??? I don't know, but ya, hope this helps a bit. Also, if you've got the money, I'd suggest getting the Pro-Match matched and assembled 7 cell packs, specifically designed for the E-Maxx. Pricey, but quality.

[TeamMishap]

The 12S has 3033 rpm/v the 8S has 4613. I have no experience with the 8S and just would like to try it. Somewhere on here, I've heard you are better off with the 12. I would just like more RPMs

[metalry101]

I'm assuming that the 12 is better because it probably produces a lot more torque. Obviously, w/ the same gearing the 8S will have a higher top speed. That is, only if it has the horsepower to push that kind of gearing. If your truck is modified for racing, as in lightened a lot, then you could probably get away w/ it, but I'm assuming that the extra RPMs of the 8S aren't going to help you any otherwise, because you'd probably have to gear the motor down to get enough torque for good performance, and that would negate the extra RPMs. Maybe not, but I'd think so.

[TeamMishap]

I think you are right about the torque on the 8S

[Skribble]

Originally posted by metalry101
Skribble~
I like your list of mods, but you're probably gonna want to include CVDs, at least for the rear. Also, I don't know anything about those shocks, but you'll probably have run really really heavy springs to keep the truck off the ground, unless you've got a way to lighten it up a lot (i.e. taking out first gear, and the shifting servo, taking off the bumpers, running only the RPM skids, etc) Otherwise 4 shocks won't control the truck well enough for racing, and by your choic of chassis, I'm thinking you want to race it. Also, I don't see why you need the UE shocktowers. Maybe they're more adjustable or something? I don't know. I've never broken anything on my Pro-Line kit equipped Maxx (including shock towers) and my truck probably weighs 12 lbs ready to go w/ the HB tires on it. Maybe you just didn't know the Pro-Line kit comes w/ shock towers??? I don't know, but ya, hope this helps a bit. Also, if you've got the money, I'd suggest getting the Pro-Match matched and assembled 7 cell packs, specifically designed for the E-Maxx. Pricey, but quality. Yeah, racing.

1. A lot of people tend to run 4 shock setups with the 1/8 SuperShocks. 60-70 weight oil and some stiff springs should do it.
2. Yep, take any unnessecary things off.
3. UE Shocktowers to accomodatee the SuperShocks. Because of the 1/8 size, I need the adjustability of the Knuckleheads.
4. I'm also considering the Ballistic unmatched 7-cells.
5. As for money, this is going to be a slow buildup, lol.

[gotfire420]

I don't know if this has been explained on this particular board, but where the hell is MaxxTraxx! I want it back!

[gotfire420]

Heyyyy, shoulda asked this in the post I just made, but I'm an idiot. ANYways, does anyone have any ideas how to mount an antenna on the Xtreme Maxxmcarbon fiber chassis? There is no mount, and I'm at a loss.

[metalry101]

Skribble~
Sounds like a tight setup. Good luck w/ it, and don't worry about a slow build up, my truck has had a slow build up too. It's cool though, cuz this way you get to learn about your truck, and maybe you'll find some things that you'll want to upgrade that you didn't even think of, or maybe decide not to mod some things that you wanted to.

gotfire420~
Nice name. I have no idea what happened to Maxxtraxx. I used to use it a little, but I haven't been there in a few months. As for the antenna tube mount, I think you can buy them, but if you can't find one, buy the one for a Tamiya TB Evo II and drill a little hole in your chassis and slide it in. The antenna goes through the hole into the antenna tube mount, and then up of course. You can drill another hole and attach the mount via a screw or just CA it on or something, or you drill the hole for the antenna the right size, I think something slides into that to protect the antenna from the graphite, so that could hold it w/ friction. Hope that makes some sense.

[kvrc]

hey guys thanks for the advice on the titans. i have my truck now, it is basiccly stock except for the proline susp. and traxxas big bore shocks. i have run this thing with some matched 7 cell 2400 packs, and all i can say is this thing is ugly fast.
i have a very nice offroad track on my property and my maxx can handle the 8 foot wide lanes better than i ever expected. i havent done very much tuning on it, and i am already getting close to the lap times i run with my xxx t.
now i have a question, about how many runs do you guys get before the titans start to noticably slow down? i am pretty good with motor maintence, clean with spray relube bushings ect. any input will be appreciated. also, is around 6 min 30 sec run time about right in race conditions?

[metalry101]

If you take care of them that well then they should last quite a while b4 they slow down a lot. I'm not sure how long though. If you've got the same luck I do, you'll strip out the mounting holes on the cans long b4 the motors will need to be replaced. The cans are made of really soft ****** metal, and strip quite easily, which is ridiculous considering that you have to get them nice and tight or they torque themselves right out of the position you had them in. As for the battery situation, that seems really low to me, but then again in racing you're probably constantly accelerating and decelerating, etc, and that takes a lot of energy w/ something as heavy as an E, so that could be about right, I'm not sure, as I've never raced. Still seems kinda low though. Is your drivetrain binding at all? What charger do you run? How old are the packs? Etc

[powertrip]

Originally posted by metalry101
If you've got the same luck I do, you'll strip out the mounting holes on the cans long b4 the motors will need to be replaced. The cans are made of really soft ****** metal, and strip quite easily, which is ridiculous considering that you have to get them nice and tight or they torque themselves right out of the position you had them in.

I totally agree with the soft crappy metal.. That totally sucks.. I've replaced 2 motors now where they have stripped.. do you guys have any ideas how to reuse these "GOOD" motors with the stripped mounting holes?? If worst come to worst.. I'm gonna use them on my daughters Power Wheels. =D

[kvrc]

i hope that i dont run into the stripped can thing. if i do, i will take it apart and see if i can jb weld in a nut inside. as far as the batteries go, my 7 cell 2400 packs are pretty good matched cells. i should have mentioned that i race it in second gear only with the stock 18-66 combo. my track surface is very loose dirt / sand, so it sucks a lot of power. i am pretty good at making stock motors run ,so i will be pulling my titans apart and see if i can use a few tricks and make them run a little better on my dyno. no i dont have any binding, in fact, this thing runs faster than i expected. when i race it with my pro match 3300 6 cells, it still is very fast and runs close to 7 min.

[guver]

Hey doods, I got eye strain from reading thru all the posts here.
Just got my emaxx and ran about 6 runs in 6 days.

Lots of familiar names on this forum from the evader forums.

Here are my first thoughts on the e-maxx.

tx is kinda cheasey, but works ok
I put my batts under the chassis instead of above, works ok
My motors get real hot, esc doesn't, I'm going to try some heat sinks on them.

All in all I'm pretty happy with it so far.

[guver]

Oh, on the stripped motors, could the motors be twisted/turned and redrilled and tapped?

Or couldn't the stripped holes be drilled and tapped for a larger screw?

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hey My Emaxx has the dynamite 4 battery chassis. Could the EVX hold 4 batteries in one run time using the Y harness? or would it blow? Also how must faster does it go with 7 cell rather than 6 and would 4 6 packs beat 2 7 cell? thanks a lot guys.

[metalry101]

kvrc~
Good luck taking the motors apart and everything. It's not exactly the easiest thing to do. Not that it can't be done, but it's pretty hard. What are you going to do to make them run better? Replace the bushings w/ bearings? Advance the timing? Cut the comm?

guver~
i'm assuming that the motors probably could be drilled and tapped for new screws, but I'm not sure. As for tapping the existing holes for larger screws, it would be fine on the motor, but you'd had to drill out the holes in the motor plate as well since the holes are only big enough to allow a stock size screw through. Then if you got new motors and went back to the stock hardware, you'd have a hard time keeping it mounted in the correct place.

BlueBeast8-Port~
I'm assuming that the Y-adapter adds the capacities together instead of the voltage, so your runtime goes up? As in:

(1500 Mah 7.2 volt) + (1500 Mah 7.2 volt) = 3000 Mah 7.2 volt

If the Y harness makes it so the voltage doubles instead of the runtime, hell yes the EVX will fry, it's not made to handly 28.8 volts, it's made to handle 14.4. I don't know exactly how much faster a Maxx is w/ 7 cells, but it is noticeably faster, probably at least 3-4 mph. Maybe more. As for the 4 six cell packs vs 2 seven cell packs, there's no comparison. The 7-cell setup would win hands down. The E-Maxx isn't exaclty a light truck to begin w/, adding more weight to it only slows it down. The only reason to run 4 batteries is if you're too lazy to change the batteries so often. Personally, I think I can manage to change the batteries and keep my performance.

[guver]

I was thinking of putting bearings in the stock motors too.

Does anyone use 48 pitch gears for pinion and spur?

Any body want to sell them good but stripped out motors cheap?

[metalry101]

If I can find some motors I'll give them to ya cheap. As for the 48 pitch, I doubt they'd last too long. I think the Maxx has a bit too much torque, it'd probably eat the gears for lunch.

[guver]

that would be great, so a coarse gear will handle more torque than a finer tooth gear? 32 pitch will take more tork than a 48 pitch?

[Skribble]

Anyone running dual Roosters/Super Roosters? My friend fried his EVX just the other day, when he was on the line waiting for the mains race to start, lol.

My other friend brought out an E-Maxx on dual LRP IPC V7.1 on Banzai 10x2s and it had mad torque, top end, and brake, lol. I'm like the dual setup better, and something more reliable. How do you wire two speed controlls together? Just a y-harness?

Also, what's the difference between the Rooster and the Super Rooster? And would S. Rooster/Rooster + 7 cells + Magnetic Mayhems be a good setup? Or something similiar.

Any other recommendations, not including brushless? No reverse, and a setup for only racing .. Thanks in advance.

[Soya v1.1]

Well, if you had a Super Rooster, you wouldn't need 2, as it is twin motor capable already. And I think it's 10 cell capable, too, but don't quote me on that.

[guver]

I think the factory overtightened the pinion set screw cuz my maxx was running on one motor and that was why, the pinion was coming off the end of the shaft. when I went to tighten it, it was already stripped. :(

[TeamMishap]

The super will take motors wired in series or parallel and will run 10 cells.

Any wind motor in series is OK, but parallel winding limit recommendation by Novak is no lower than dual 15 turns.

[Skribble]

Titans/Mags will run on Super Roosters, right?

Also, if I wire up 2 SRs, does that mean I can use 20 cells in total? 10 for each speedo?

I'm just looking for a cheaper setup that'll allow my to run more then 14 cells, but not have as much power as brushless so it'll mangle the drivetrain in one run ..

[TeamMishap]

Yup, you can run 10 cells per each SR.

However, since the titans are 14.4V motors, I don't know if the SRs will push them very well since each will only get 12V...and that's if you have 10 cells on each SR.

Two SuperRoosters will set you back at least $200... go brushless. :)

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
The super will take motors wired in series or parallel and will run 10 cells.

Any wind motor in series is OK, but parallel winding limit recommendation by Novak is no lower than dual 15 turns.

Ha, I was right :D

[Skribble]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Yup, you can run 10 cells per each SR.

However, since the titans are 14.4V motors, I don't know if the SRs will push them very well since each will only get 12V...and that's if you have 10 cells on each SR.

Two SuperRoosters will set you back at least $200... go brushless. :) I just don't want to go through the whole truck upgrading everything. I'm going to buy my friends roller for $200 (Stock E-Maxx, Powerline Shocks; probably crap, Pro-Line Suspension). Looks pretty new, although the E-Maxx RTR here is $299, but then I'd be stuck with the crappy controller and EVX.

I'm probably going to be upgrading to chassis too .. and then the diffs., tranny, and CVDs would make it cost too much, plus batteries .. Bleh, dunno. I don't need that much power, since my LHS track is a tiny 1/10 track. T-Maxxes only hit 2nd gear for a second or two .. Bleh, I seriously need to go find a job.

[Skribble]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Yup, you can run 10 cells per each SR.

However, since the titans are 14.4V motors, I don't know if the SRs will push them very well since each will only get 12V...and that's if you have 10 cells on each SR.

Two SuperRoosters will set you back at least $200... go brushless. :) Bleh, stupid edit time limit.

It'll still be 12v on 20 total cells? Can't that be changed if I wire parallel or serial (By the way, which increases run time and which increases voltage)? Sorry for all the questions, I'm ignorant when it comes to more then one speedo and anything more than 1x6 cell battery pack. Trying to learn so I don't toast anything.

[TeamMishap]

Each Super Rooster can take 10 cells in series for total of 12V.

Packs in series...double the volts, amps remain same
Packs parallel...volts the same, amps double.

No problem with the questions. How else are ya supposed to learn.

RCCA Monster Trucks 2003 has a great article on all the questions you are asking regarding dual batts, motors, controllers.

[Skribble]

So if I ran 2x7 (7 cells to each SR) cell in Series, it would 14.4 volts in total, right?

[lil_general_lee]

I love the E-maxx a lot but keep breaking stuff stock. Before I converted to CVD's I basically broke 1 drive shaft a week, and I've broken the little 2.5MM screws that hold the diff case to the ring gear twice :( Also, I think the maxx was the most fun in stock form. The CVD's are awsome but add a noticable increase in weight. I think I may take the centers and fronts out for now. Anyways, Here is a pic of my recenty rebuilt maxx (with a blown rear diff :( )

[ClubRacer]

Parting with a Traxxas E-Maxx, like new, ran twice in large parking lot! Bought truck alone for $350, selling with 4 packs (2-1500, 2-2400) and charger, for only $275+$25 shippping, or can arrange for local pick-up for Los Angeles residents! Ships in continental US ONLY! Reply if interested, serious inquiries only! Thank you!

[ClubRacer]

Parting with a Traxxas E-Maxx, like new, ran twice in large parking lot! Bought truck alone for $350, selling with 4 packs (2-1500, 2-2400) and charger, for only $275+$25 shippping, or can arrange for local pick-up for Los Angeles residents! Ships in continental US ONLY! Reply if interested, serious inquiries only! Thank you!

[guver]

I think my evx blew up already . I only have 8 runs on it and it cut out only for the first few minutes of run time. After that it is ok for the rest of the run. When it is not working, the green lite is lit when I pull full trigger. And after a few seconds it starts back up again.

Does that sound like a bad esc or the thermal shutting down?

[adrcracing]

guver, sounds like radio interference to me. I think your ESC is fine. Mabe there was a ham radio or cb on in the area or something else, like battery wires are to close to the receiver.

[guver]

I dont think radio interference because when i pull trigger the esc lites work normal. every time. Its been happening every run for the first few minutes. My evader used to esc shut down like that only in the biginning when the batts were full charged, but after a few minutes, then it was ok.

I kinda figured my problem was in the esc or after, but the motors wouldn't just stop and start on their own, and I wiggle everything and even move the truck forward when it is acting up and the only thing that makes it start again is time

[Skribble]

Originally posted by guver
I dont think radio interference because when i pull trigger the esc lites work normal. every time. Its been happening every run for the first few minutes. My evader used to esc shut down like that only in the biginning when the batts were full charged, but after a few minutes, then it was ok.

I kinda figured my problem was in the esc or after, but the motors wouldn't just stop and start on their own, and I wiggle everything and even move the truck forward when it is acting up and the only thing that makes it start again is time Are you using the Tamiya plugs?

[Lord Radeon]

Ah, electrical system troubles. The reason I sold my maxx (besides needing money for the car). They only increase when you get brushless. eesh....

I LOVE electric but dear god, if I get back in it'll be a Savage SS. So much less complicated then a good electric setup

[tadium54]

I just got back from working as an instructor at a camp that had an RC program. we did Maxxes(both E and T) and Tamiya mad fighters. It did quite well, along with some freak accidents with the maxxes(broken arms, bent shock shafts, melted slipper clutches, broken engine mounts, bulkheads smashed)

As a bonus for doing a good job, they gave me a new e maxx. Ive been out of iut for a while, and am considering doing a full option e maxx with traxxas hopups. Id like some opinions

thanks
tadium

[Skribble]

Originally posted by tadium54
As a bonus for doing a good job, they gave me a new e maxx. Ive been out of iut for a while, and am considering doing a full option e maxx with traxxas hopups. Id like some opinions

thanks
tadium Ah, not Traxxas .. LoL. Is it the original or WideMaxx?

Chassis (All 3 come with braces):
- Bomb-Proof Products Torpedo (Extended Lexan)
- Bomb-Proof Products Race Bomb (Extended Lexan w/ optional 7075 upper deck, lowered batts).
- Xtreme Racing (Extended Carbon Fiber, lowered batts).

http://www.ueusa.net (Unlimited Engineering)
http://bomb-proofproducts.com (Bomb-Proof Products)
http://www.acncm.com (American CNC Machine)
http://www.otbtech.com/pages/1/index.htm (OTB Tech; Outside The Box)
http://www.greatassemblyrc.com (Great Assembly Rc)
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com (RPM Products)
http://www.ballisticbatteries.com (Ballistic Batteries)

I LOVE electric but dear god, if I get back in it'll be a Savage SS. So much less complicated then a good electric setupWhich would you prefer for racing on a small track?

[guver]

Originally posted by Skribble
Are you using the Tamiya plugs?

Yes I am using tamiya plugs, I have green lite on esc when at full throttle. Today I tried it and It never would run at all, until I left it full throttle for about 10 seconds, and then it just took off and ran good. I've also reset esc and always has the green lite when acting up.

I think I'll poke around with a volt meter or put another esc on and see.

[rcmania67]

where can I get a good battery pack for E-Maxx without costing alot of money?

thanks

[guver]

I would recommend pro-match or SMC or world class, If those are too much money you can get 2-2400 from peak or orion fairly cheap.

If I had to do it over again (and I do for next year) I would get the 3300 gp from promatch or smc.

I've realized this e-maxx is a real battery hog. lol
I should've guessed that with 2 big motors and all.

[Skribble]

Originally posted by guver
Yes I am using tamiya plugs, I have green lite on esc when at full throttle. Today I tried it and It never would run at all, until I left it full throttle for about 10 seconds, and then it just took off and ran good. I've also reset esc and always has the green lite when acting up.

I think I'll poke around with a volt meter or put another esc on and see. When I had the Tamiya plugs on my XXX-T, I would have problems with the car working and not working, and I found out that the Tamiya plugs would BARELY come loose, but since the lights still go on on your speedo, I'm assuming that's not the problem ..

[egdinger]

maybe that is his problem, but only one of the packs are also coming loose, the one that doesn't drive the controll circutry of the speedo?

[thanghoang]

I'm about to order a new pack of batteries for my emaxx as well. I know matched packs are better but for bashing around the yard, would I really see much of a benefit. I was going to purchase the unmatched GP3300 7 cell packs from ballistic batteries.com.

My concern is if I purchase the matched packs, how do I keep them matched? I really don't want to spend the extra $30 for matched packs just to have them become unmatched in a few runs.

I'm using the Duratrax Pirahna Digital Peak charger hooked into a Radio Shack AC to DC 25 amp power supply.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, anyone with the dynamite quad battery chassis? Have you had any trouble fitting the battery pack into the chassis? It seems shorter? Well i will prolly end up jamming the packs i nthere. Have any of you had any problems like this?Does the y-harness for it double the capacity so it would run longer or voltage for power? Let me no.

[guver]

Originally posted by egdinger
maybe that is his problem, but only one of the packs are also coming loose, the one that doesn't drive the controll circutry of the speedo?

My cutting out problem all of a sudden just went away, I think you may have been right. Thanks for the help.

[guver]

My diff bearings worn out causing my diff gears to slip and My esc problem is back. I think it was a shorted battery bar. I'll have to get it together again and see.

[guver]

I'm looking for chassis choices that meet these specs:

holds 8 cells inline (sidebyside) on each side total 16
holds batteries under the chassis (even with the braces)
is not metal (can be longer than stock)

So inotherwords I want a lower center of gravity and longer to hold my 8 cell packs .

[metalry101]

guver-
The only chassis that I can think of off the top of my head that lowers your CG lotz is the Racebomb, made by Bombproof RC (http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com).

[TeamMishap]

I have the longer A-arms on my Emaxx. Do you think putting a set of shorts on the front would look hinky? I think it may look cool. I'm thinking it'd almost make the back look like it was dually wide, plus wouldn't the shorter arms in front tighten the turning radius?

[TeamMishap]

I just put some of these on my E-maxx. With 40WT oil, they seem wimpy. I had to twist the collars about half way down the shock body just to engage the springs. It seems like the springs are way short compared to the stock Maxx springs. Any one else running Dynamites?

[Lord Radeon]

The springs are worthless. Use stock springs, and eventually buy a set of trinity light blues (for 8 shocks) or purples (for four)

[TeamMishap]

Thanks man. I was about to go bonkers. Do the Light Blues give it pretty good stiffness?

Thanks again. HobbyTown here I come.

I used the new Losi Shock balancer to match em up. It works well. Just to see how my stock shocks were, I mounted them up, and boy were things ugly. No wonder it jumped like a turd. Even with the Dynamite springs, it handled better, despite sagging like an old womans breast.

[gotfire420]

nice similie

[Lord Radeon]

Light blues are nice and firm. Awesome for almost any use. For hardcore jumping (20 feet or more) you can toss on blacks or purples to make the truck incredibly stiff (but it wont handle well)

[zero sk8er]

hey everyone, how many amps should i charge an nicd 2400 pack at? and 1500?

Also wat tires are good for street, and dirt/sand places and hillclimbing?

Any help would be kool thanks :).

[Lord Radeon]

Stick Ni-Cd pack, unmatched, 4 amps

Matched Ni-Cd pack, SxS, 5-6 amps

[guver]

Some charge at 2c (twice capacity) so the 1500 @ 3 amps and the 2400 @ 4.8 amps.
Some can charge even at 3c (triple capacity) I usually charge at 2c unless I'm in a hurry.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello well ive had my e maxx for a short time. Its all stock. My first run half way through the first pack the gears wouldn't catch. like the motors were going but the car wouldn't move. I checked the spur gear and the middle part way all worn out and melted. One side to the 2 metal pieces that surround the spur gear had the middle of the spur gear, and the slipper pegs melted to it. So i went to the hobby shop and had to buy a new spur gear, new mtal pieces and slipper pegs. came out to $15. so i put it all together and ran it again today. half way through the pack again the same thing happened. Except this time i noticed a burning smell and noticed the gears had melted. What is happening and why? Whats going on, because i cant have this keep happening. Something not right and every run at this rate will cost me $15! HELP PLEASE> WHAT DO I NEED TO DO?

[metalry101]

Tighten up your slipper clutch. Obviously your plastic spur gear is getting really hot, and obviously the only way it can do that is if there is a lot of friction, in the only place that it can experience friction, between the metal plates and the gear. That's the only way the spur gear can melt. And what else was hot? The motors? They tend to get really hot no matter what, but even hotter if your gear mesh is off, so make sure there's some place between the pinions and the spur, at least enough to run a piece of paper through the gears.

[Lord Radeon]

Replace your pegs with 1/8" diff balls and tighten down your slipper nut until the spring starts to warp slightly. 12 balls = no slip. 10 balls = slight slip. 8 balls = more slip. never run less then 8.


^ Is how I dialed my brushless rig to the track depending on traction, worked well and the diff balls will last forever.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Thanks guys. i really appriciate it. Now i am on to a chassis. I have tried out the dynamite 4 battery chassis. My GP 3300 side by side packs do not fit into the chassis so that one was not for me. I would like a chassis to fit these needs: fit my side by side packs. Maybe holds 4 batterys but not neccisary. made of something liike aluminum, carbon fiber, lexan something durable and nice looking. Let me know and drop some prices. thnaks a lot guys.

[Lord Radeon]

Poor thing. You actually bought dynamite's chassis :(. Check out bomb-proof's torpedo chassis. It should suit your needs. ($100)

[BlueBeast8-Port]

haha yea, well i got it off ebay new for 60 and i alreaqdy got rid of it for 75 so i made so dough, lol. Ok well i am debating on the bomb proof. Is the torpedo or the race bomb better? Has anyone here accually delt with the company and how is the chassis? Race bomb or Torpedo. I have the extra $50 but dont want to waste it if not needed. thanks

[Lord Radeon]

The torpedo is a much stronger chassis all-around. It can also carry more batteries. The race-bomb is lighter, and has a lower CG, but is also much weaker then the torpedo. For your needs, I'd go with the torpedo.

[TeamMishap]

I've got a Torpedo chassis and love it. I posted some pics of my 2.5 year old son "stress testing" it. He was sitting on my E and hopping up and down with his bum. No breaks, no cracks, no nothing.

The only thing I don't like are the battery cups. The chassis itself is great. I ran velcro down the length of the chassis and on the bottom of the cups and they've held fine in all but one major crash. The battery cups do hold SxS packs just fine.

I could send you pics if interested.

[Lord Radeon]

If you want something to hold the cups, get some 3M double sided trim tape: IE: The stuff the use to hold automobile badges onto cars with. Works wonders

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello guys. well now i am hearing about this xTREME Carbon Fiber chassis? How is it? Torpedo or Carbon Fiber? thanks for all your help so far

[TeamMishap]

I just don't like the cups. They secure to the chassis just fine, I just don't like how they hold the batteries. I need to figure out some kind of strap system.

[anothermbdusted]

carbon fiber snaps if abused cause it is so rigid. torpedo will flex a bit and be more forgiving. granted the CF sits alot lower but it all depends on what you want to use it for bashing or racing if bashing then get a torpedo if bashing and racing get the torpedo if racing and your good then get the CF or the race bomb....bombproof products are top notch and hes a great guy to deal with also if a problem does happen to arise.(doubt it though)...ive had my torpedo for a few months now and love it the best money i have spent on it yet.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello well i am going with the torpedo i believe, because my track is quite short and tiht with a lot of jumps and from watching i have seen a lot of guys come down hard on jumps and have seen many chassis braces and skids snap so i think the CF with break. Thanks a lot for all your help guys.

[TeamMishap]

I think you'll be very happy with your Torpedo. It's a very stable platform. No more rollovers during high speed turns. I think you lose a smidgen of turning radius, but it's not horrible.

I'm thinking about putting some of the older Maxx arms on to see if this would tighten up steering. Has anyone tried this?

[Lord Radeon]

They dont. At any rate, the fastest way to turn is to power the rear end around, and the easiest way to do that is get some 1/8 diffs (think UE) that you can fill with oil and adjust the front and rear so the car will turn under power.

[TeamMishap]

Are the 1/8th diffs Maxx specific or adaptations for a maxx?

[Lord Radeon]

Both. Their 1/8 buggy diffs made to fit into maxxes. Take a look here.

http://www.ueusa.net/SM7.5Diff.shtml

Only con is their VERY pricy, but well worth it (I had a set on my brushless rig, VERY high quality, and they were bulletproof)

[DanDan]

Maxxtraxx is back

maxxtraxxusa.com

[Goodie1994]

Hey all, I just bought an E-Maxx and I gotta say that it has to be the best R\C I have ever owned. I love the power and the size of this beast. I do have one question for you E-Maxx pros out there though, ok maybe 2 questions, here we go.

#1 How much play should the whole drive line have? When I roll the E-Maxx back and fourth on the floor I can move it about 4 inches before the drive line tightens up. What i'm trying to say is that thre is alot of slack in the gearing and to me that dosent seem right.

#2 When I'm running the truck and I stop and am at a stand still and I turn the steering to the left the truck drives foreward and I don't have to give any throttle at all, just turn left . Any Ideas on what causes this? I have NEVER hit any water with it, just sand and pavement.

Thx in advance for the help guys

[TeamMishap]

I finally got my Dynamite shocks for my E. I'm not that thrilled with them. The springs that come with them are like noodles and the lips on the spring retainers are too thin, seems like stock or aftermarket springs would slip right over them if hit hard.

On to my question. I've been having problems lately with my truck front flipping when jumping.

Originally I had the truck set up to ride at it's highest point front and back. So I lowered the ride height in back a bit and it still front flipped. I softened the springs in back and it still front flipped. The CG is pretty close to center of the truck, even if it was forward a smidge, I don't think it'd be enough to cause front flipping.

When I jump it going backwards, it does great with a slight nose (back of the truck) orientation and sweet landings.

I've tinkered enough and am obviously doing poorly at fixing my problem. Any ideas?

[metalry101]

Goodie1994~
Yes, the E-Maxx drivetrain does have a lot of play. Some of this is in the gears, but most of it comes from the motors. The motors don't necessarily have a lot of play, it just takes a few rotations of the drivetrain to get them to bind. If you think the play in your truck's driveline is excessive, make sure the mesh between the pinions and spur is good, but don't make it too tight. As for the turn left and go thing, I kinda remember my truck doing that sometimes too. I think it's just something that the truck does sometimes. I'd assume it has to do w/ the cheap radio gear that comes w/ the truck. I can't say for sure, but I think that's the source of the problem.

TeamMishap~
Do you have some drag brake set into the truck or something? As in does your truck go backwards a little when the throttle is at neutral? Or, if it doesn't have that, is your drivetrain just binding a lot so that if you let off the throttle the wheel speed goes down a whole lot really fast? That would have the same effect as tapping the brakes in midair, which would send the truck endover end as you describe. Other than that, I can't think of any reasons it would dive. The CG shouldn't be different from stock, even if you move the reciever or speed control around, as they don't weigh enough to influence the CG that much, the E just weighs too much for them to make much of a difference. So, check the radio first, to make sure you don't have a drag brake setup, and then check the drivetrain for binding. The motors could just really need to be cleaned, or the gear mesh could be set wrong or something. If you find that drivetrain is relatively free but the motors are dirty and seem to be the source of the problem and don't want to buy new ones, you could loosen slipper clutch a little. That would hurt your acceleration a little, but it should hurt (lessen) the decelleration, and as such, any bad flight tendancies that it is causing. Hope you can decipher this, and I hope it helps.

[tommckay]

Goodie, with 2 u-joints on each axel and another 2 on each center 1/2 shaft there would be a bit of slop, but then the Transmission has more slop than all of those though, it is there on purpose for the shift on the fly from 1st to 2nd.

I race mine & wanted more better throttle response so I took out 1st gear and attached the floater to the 2nd gear drive gear. it took alot of slop out, I probably have 1.5" of slop now.

[TeamMishap]

I just have the stock Traxxas controller, so I don't have any drag brake dialed in. I am running a Hacker B50-12S, the bearings spin freely, so there isn't much motor induced drag. Everything drivetrain wise is good. I just suck at setup.

I'll just have to toy with it a bit.

Thanks for the help Metalry.

[Goodie1994]

Thx Guys. I was so worried that I called traxxas and asked them. They said it was normal. I also asked them about the radio problem I have and they said to swap my leads around on the reciever and see if it still does it. I havent tried it yet and doubt i will. The guy at traxxas said it could just be the one channel causing it. I dunno though cuz I don't know much about radio stuff, lol.

[Lord Radeon]

TM: get used to flipping when jumping. Brushless is extremely hard to control when in the air. It's because the motors spin freely very quickly (as soon as the wheels get off the ground) and the controller can't keep up. It loses track of the shaft and 'cogs' slightly if you will in midair. This causes a sort of jerking motion in the truck which can send it into cartwheels. The best thing to do is to sit the truck on the ground, and set your throttle trim forward as far as you can until the truck goes forward. Then set it back until the car stops moving, but keep it right on the line. It helps some.


Also, like I said some posts above, ditch the springs, and pick up some trinity light blues. I used traxxas turnbuckle ends on the dyn shocks, they're much beefier, give you a bit more travel, and aren't likely to rip off. You can stick any retanier you want on them, the springs wont come off.

[superracer107]

hello all is the e-maxx a good play truck im a serious racer xxx-t the works i need to jump go fast and how long will the motors last until they need replaced and will the m8 transmitter work with the car (the shifting seems to be a problem)and will it handle like my super xxx-t:D

[metalry101]

The E-Maxx is a great play truck, probably one of the best on the market. It will jump and go fast, especially w/ the proper gearing and matched packs. The motors will last a really long time as long as you keep them clean. Just blast them w/ motor spray and lube the bushings every coupla runs or so. As long as you don't strip them (the cans are pretty soft), the motors should work. As for the M8, I don't know. I don't know that it is a 3 channel Tx, and if it is, I don't think it's very easy to use the 3rd channel. However, the stock radio gear works alright. It's cheap, and doesn't have the adjustments like your M8, but for a play truck you don't need them anyways. If you've really gotta have FM and adjustability, the MX-3 is only like 105 bux, and it works great. I've got one and I love it. But, handling wise the E-Maxx is a monster truck, not a stadium truck. You can build to it carve, but it will never carve a tight track like an XXX-T will. They don't do too bad, but stock they're nothing like an XXX-T. However, it'll go places your XXX-T could only dream of, and it'll handle the really rough stuff a lot better. Hope this answers your questions.

[TeamMishap]

I solved most of my flipping problem. I switched all my shocks and mountings around front to back. Doesn't make any sense to me why it works, but it handles much better now.

Instead of the back being low and having two shocks with black springs and the front with 4 shocks and high riding, I made the front low and soft and the back stiff and high. Now it works well now. Seems counterintuitive to me. Only reason I did it is because when I jumped it backwards it worked well. Now it jumps well forwards.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, i am jsut curious on which motors to put in my e maxx. On my old e maxx i had a pair of monster maxx pro but they burnt up on the first pack so i reallly dont want to have to deal with that again. I really want to go brushless but $400 is a little too much. Have any of your heard about the new Novak HV brushless set up for the emaxx? If so how is it supposed to perform? Also price? Any motor suggestions please. the titans are getting a little slow.

[metalry101]

BlueBeast8-Port~
Titans are gettin slow eh? Have you tried gearing up and running matched packs? When I run my matched packs nobody complains about the speed of my truck. However, if you're really dying to upgrade, the only the things better than the Titans are BL motors. I haven't heard from anyone who has the new Novak BL system, but a friend of mine who works at a hobby shop said that he heard it was tranny bustin powerful. As for price, it'll set ya back 310 bux if you get it from Tower, plus you definately want matched packs w/ a system like that. It'll draw too many amps for cheap packs to handle.

Team Mishap~
Glad to hear you got your problem solved. That does kinda sound counterintuitive when it comes to jumping. I could definately see that making the truck handle better, but jumping better? Oh well, way to go.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well i do have gp 3300 SxS packs that i run. What is a good gear ratio? thanx a lot. So the Novak will be a lot more powerful than hacker? Also going brushless do you need to bulletproof your diffs and tranny like going to a .21 or will the stock handle it?

[Lord Radeon]

20/66 with 12 cells
18/66 with 14 cells

On titans ^

[Soya v1.1]

Anybody want an E-maxx roller :D

[metalry101]

I don't know that the Novak is more powerful than the Hacker. I know the Hacker is ridiculously powerful, and I've only heard one thing about the Novak's power, and that's through the grapevine. As for the diffs and tranny surviving, that probably depends on how you drive. If you drive crazylike and you're always full throttle, then you'll probably break stuff, but if you're somewhat sane in your driving habits, I'd assume that the stock stuff would hold up reasonably well. It might break or wear out over time, but it probably won't go nuclear on you. As for gearing, w/ my street tires mounted I run a 22/66 ratio, but that's cuz I'm not lookin for much in the way of low end on the street, more top end. That wouldn't be a very good setup for off-road.

[TeamMishap]

I finally fried a diff, I think. What a PITA to get them out.

I messed up the plastic barrell thingee inside pretty good.

I have a question about the big metal gear in the diff that has the four little screws in it. Are these screws supposed to be threaded into the gear? Mine just slide in and out of the hole. Also, are the little screws all supposed to be the same length? I'm thinking some of mine got shaved off.

It was really fun playing with my 2WD "Sport" Emaxx. Talk about stupid fast. I'm half tempted to convert it to 2WD for a while.

Thanks for any help with my diff questions.

[Goodie1994]

I have a question about the stock ESC that comes with the Emaxx. Do you guys ever have a delay in going from Forward to reverse? Mine seems to delay at times. I can be going forward and come to a stop and try to go backwards and I get a 2-3 second delay before it wants to back up. Is this normal? If not normal is there away to fix it? A setting maybe?

[guver]

that delay is normal, No delay going from rev to forward though.

[guver]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
I finally fried a diff, I think. What a PITA to get them out.

I messed up the plastic barrell thingee inside pretty good.

I have a question about the big metal gear in the diff that has the four little screws in it. Are these screws supposed to be threaded into the gear? Mine just slide in and out of the hole. Also, are the little screws all supposed to be the same length? I'm thinking some of mine got shaved off.

It was really fun playing with my 2WD "Sport" Emaxx. Talk about stupid fast. I'm half tempted to convert it to 2WD for a while.

Thanks for any help with my diff questions.

Those are supposed to be threaded in and all the same length
they are very tiny and easy to strip or break too. I would think that if one gets sheared off they all do (unless a couple backed off first, then the remaining ones got sheared?)

[Goodie1994]

Originally posted by guver
that delay is normal, No delay going from rev to forward though.

Thx man, I was really worried cuz these E-maxxes are not cheap up here in Canada and I would hate to think I wasted money. But if you say it's ok then that's cool. :D

[TeamMishap]

Someone has got to make a different diff housing than that plastic one. Plus, it really sucks you can't just get the plastic piece, you have to buy the whole ring gear package for $12.

[guver]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP74&P=Z

or you talking about the carrier thing that holds the spider gears

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP75&P=Z

good time to get a spool right?;)

[guver]

I packed mine with some very,veryveryvery heavy heavy grease and almost ruined those tiny screws cuz I had too much grease in it.

[TeamMishap]

Yeah, the plastic POS that holds the spider gears. What a jip to have to buy the whole set.

[Devillish]

What would be a good, very high tourqe servo for steering? somthing under 40 bucks.

[TeamMishap]

HITEC 645MG!!

[Lord Radeon]

I'd rather have the 625mg to be honest. It's a lot faster. Best bet is to wait a week and save another $40 and get a nice top-end 5945 digital. Your truck will thank you

[TeamMishap]

The 625 is about 25% faster
0.18sec/60 degrees at 4.8v
0.15sec/60 degrees at 6.0v

The 645
0.24 sec/60 degrees at 4.8v
0.20 sec/60 degrees at 6.0v

Can you really tell the .05 sec. difference?

Also, is there a point of diminishing returns with torque in a Maxx application? What I mean is, you won't really notice much difference at torques higher than X.

625
76.37 oz-in at 4.8v
94.43 oz-in at 6.0v

645 is about 28% torquier
106.93 oz/in at 4.8v
133.31 oz/in at 6.0v

They both cost the same, so I guess your decision is based on speed versus torque.

[metalry101]

You might also want to consider the Hitec 5645. It's a digital high torque, but it's not as torquey or as fast as the 5945, but it's also about 45 dollars cheaper. I run one in my truck, and I love it. I fried one somehow, but they come w/ a 2 year warranty so I just sent it into Hitec and I got a brand new one in the mail a few weeks later.

[Lord Radeon]

Yes you will notice the .05 second. I ended up selling the 5945 in my maxx and putting in a 5925. Lightning fast response, instead of massive torque which I didnt need in my light maxx.

(14 oz/in per pound is a good measure of the most torque you should ever need)

[Goodie1994]

Hey guys I have the Stock Radio Gear in my E-Maxx and I was wondering if these servos mentioned above will plug into the traxxas reciever???

[metalry101]

Ya, they'll work great w/ the stock Traxxas radio gear.