E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[Goodie1994]

ok cool, thx alot. :D
I aske3d for the Hitec 5645 for Xmas, it's $75 up here in Canada >.< The other ones mentioned here are over $120 each!!!!! I even find the$75 abit steep, but I really need one cuz this stcok servo in the E-Maxx is garbage. That leads me to another question. My buddy has a Electric Rustler and we were wondering if the stock servo in the E-Maxx is more powerfull then the stock steering servo in the rustler. If it is then im gonna give him my old E-maxx steering servo when I get a new one. :D

[metalry101]

Yes, the E-Maxx's stock steering servo is the 2055 I think. It's got 80 oz./inches of torque, whereas the shifting servo in your truck, and the steering servo in your friend's Rustlers are the same, a Traxxas 2018 I believe. That's a standard servo (40-50 oz./inches of torque). So yes, that would help his steering a bit if his servo is having trouble turning the tires. However, the high torque servo might be slower, I don't know the specs on the speeds of either servo, but I would guess that the 2055 is slower, so unless your friend is having problems with his servo, he might just want to keep it. Just a thought.

[Goodie1994]

Originally posted by metalry101
Yes, the E-Maxx's stock steering servo is the 2055 I think. It's got 80 oz./inches of torque, whereas the shifting servo in your truck, and the steering servo in your friend's Rustlers are the same, a Traxxas 2018 I believe. That's a standard servo (40-50 oz./inches of torque). So yes, that would help his steering a bit if his servo is having trouble turning the tires. However, the high torque servo might be slower, I don't know the specs on the speeds of either servo, but I would guess that the 2055 is slower, so unless your friend is having problems with his servo, he might just want to keep it. Just a thought.

Thanks For help metalry101. I guess the only thing we can do is swap the servos and take the ruslter for a run. Seeing is believing. Thx Again.

[r.c.dealer]

Has anybody installed the Traxxas light wieght output shaft in there emaxx tranny. I tried to install one the other day and the bearing were impossible to slide onto it, whereas the bearings easily slid on and off the stock steel output shaft. The light weight idler gear shafts didn't have the same problem though.

[TeamMishap]

If you are talking about the lightweight piece that you connect the center CVDs too, don't waste your time or money with it.

I installed one back when I had just the stock titans, and the thing snapped. I kept the stock one, put it back in and it has held up even under the rigors of brushless power.

I have not had any problems with the lightweight parts I put in the tranny. But, I do recommend against the lightweight output shaft.

[Lord Radeon]

Lightweight = bad. Aluminum anything in a tranny is bad. When it wears, it releases bits of aluminum oxide ( grinding wheels made of the stuff) and will wear everything out prematurely, that is, if it doesnt break or snap first. stock is fine

[4wdmt]

guys, i am planning to buy the traxxas aluminum motor mounts for extra cooling of the stock motors. just want to know, do they really help in lowering the temps of the titans? i already have heatsink on the motors, is it worth buying? thanks.

[r.c.dealer]

The Traxxas motor plate upgrade has gooves which is supposed to allow air to enter the front of the motor and keep it cooler. The motor plate upgrade is also thicker than the stock plate which should help cooling. The stock motor plate covers and seals the front of the motors which prevents air from being drawn though the motor. I have the trinity version but have yet to install it.

[4wdmt]

is the cooling effect noticeable? does it really help cool the motors because of the grooves? thanks you for any reply.

[Simen123]

I read earlier in this thread that the newer wider maxx has a stronger drive-line than the older? What has been done?

[Simen123]

and, has anyone tried these:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/dyn7689.jpg
from dynamite.. ?
They are about half the price of the Supermaxx cvd`s at stormer..

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Like about everyhting. "you get what you pay for". Go MIP. Best quality in my opinion. They also have replacement parts that you can buy seperately unlike dynamites where you'd have to buy a full two pack if you break a little part. They will break more easily than the MIP's also. In supermaxx cvd's you are paying for the "titanium", thats why they are so much. GO MIP CVDS!

[PCC]

Originally posted by Simen123
I read earlier in this thread that the newer wider maxx has a stronger drive-line than the older? What has been done? Traxxas changed a coupling inside the transmission so the problem of the two gears shredding the coupling on the old transmission is gone. The sliders are thicker and slightly longer than the old ones. The universal joint (balls with the pins on them) have larger diameter pins so they can take more punishment. The wheel axles and the couplings at the opposite ends are larger, too, to accomodate the new universal joints.

[anothermbdusted]

what would you pay for a emaxx that has the following?
UE suspension widetrac w/TI tie rods and shock towers
GA bulkheads,braces( not the 7075 ones )
big bore shocks
UE idler gears
robinson racing dual slipper
bomb proof torpedo chassi,center skid and also the chassi braces
mip drive shafts front, rear, center.
traxxas hexes
new proline f350 body(painted already)
dynamite peak charger ac/dc
4 6 cell 2400mah batteries
airtronics 94358 servo
hitec HS945 servo
jr xs3 radio
aluminum case for radio
tackle box for parts
ofna carry bag (2 box design)
I'm just thinking of getting out of rc for a while and dont know what to expect for it...all in perfect condition.....let me know please thanks

[4wdmt]

guys, does the terra crusher sliders fit the widemaxx e-maxx? does anyone tried installing them? thanks.

[4wdmt]

another question. what do you guys suggest in replacing the stock red shock springs? i find them too soft. i do not have plans to change the shock itself, just the springs, thanks.

[TeamMishap]

I think the consensus in here is the Trinity Light Blue springs for an E-maxx that is not aluminum laden.

[silvr_tung_devl]

Can anyone tell me the final roll-out on a stock E-Maxx drivetrain???I've got a hybrid maxx(started as a T-Maxx..converted to an E w/some custom carbon fiber parts)but its running the stock drivetrain. The reason why is cause I'm wanting to play w/gear ratios. I'm currently running Trinity Maxx motors,17t pros, w/ stock gearing.

Also if anyone is interested in carbon fiber motor plates i should have some available in the next couple of weeks!!!

Any advice WILL be appreciated!!!!

[Performance RC]

My Goal was to build the ultimate E-maxx in my opinion. I wanted to go fast. I wanted to handle, I wanted to jump, I didnt want to break either. It almost sounded too good to be true. I also wnated it to be a competitive racer. Well after 5 months it is near completion and looking betetr than ever.

Go Fast:
-Hacker C50 Maxx 14.4(well 16.8 by my book)
-Shultz 18.61 Brushless controller
-JetPack Batteries 7 cell 3000 HV Sanyo cells, matched

Yeah, it goes fast, REEEAAAL fast. Goal completed

Handle:
-Hitec Metal Gear HS-645MG Servo
-Unlimited Engineering Wide Trac STG III Suspension Kit
-Trinity "heavey" springs
-TRC On Road tires
-RPM Stablemaxx rims
-Unlimited Engineering Servo Saver kit GEN IV

It handles better than my TA-04. Goal Completed.

Jumping:
-Bomb Proof Products Race Bomb Chassis
-Dynamite Bottom fill threaded body aluminum shocks

I wasnt supposed to jump over the track was I? Goal Completed.

Durability:
-Bomb Proof Center Rear Titanium driveshaft
-Unlimited Engineering Center Driveshaft kit
-Kimbrough Spur gear
-Traxxas slipper pegs
-Durtrax/racers edge aluminum skidplates
-Parma 1/8 scale gravedigger body

You can give it hell, it comes back for more. However, stock bulks have got to go. Gettign there.

Racer:
-Pro-Line Maxx Bow tie tires
-Pro-Line Maxx Velocity rims
-Aluminum Transponder Mount
-All of the above

If you cant play with the big dogs, stay on the porch. Goal Completed

http://www.performancerc.net/FLAME0005.JPG
http://www.performancerc.net/FLAME0001.JPG
http://www.performancerc.net/FLAME0002.JPG

Enjoy!

[xxh0lywarsxx]

hey guys im looking into buying an emax in late january since im 400 bucks in debt and make 90 a week : p i wanted to ask some questions before i make the final decision

originaly i was looking to purchase an ofna ultra mbx pro rtr but i hear that nitros are a bitch to start in the cold.

what kind of performance to expect from epics 3000 mah packs for 20 bucks each i know there not matched.

does anyone run theres on snow, if soo is it alot of fun or a pain in the ass ( we get alot of snow in New York)

do the stock motors have alot of torque ie wheelies and other fun stuff.

can u change the second gear gearing for higher speeds for street use.

thanks alot any help would be greatly appreciated :)

[TeamMishap]

My wife got me one of those plastic bike/skate ramps for my trucks! Gotta love her.

My jumping woes are over. My E-maxx is sailing wheels down and sticking landings like an Olympic gymnist. My setup is totally opposite of what I think should work, but hey, whatever works!

[4wdmt]

TeamMishap, thanks, Trinity light blue shock spring seems to be the right choice as i also checked other forums.

[metalry101]

xxh0lywarsxx~
An E-Maxx is a great choice, they're a ton of fun, and yes, you can run them in the snow, but you've gotta be very very careful. The electronics don't like water, so when I run mine in the snow or mud, I put some extra antenna tubes over the chassis and the stretch a shower cap over them. The antenna tubes keep the plastic shower cap from melting on hot batteries and/or motors. Trust me, both will be very very hot after you run it like this because the shower cap not only keeps water out, it keeps air out, which means no cooling. Those batteries you're talking about aren't any good. I haven't used them specifically, but I've used other cheap cells and in the Maxx, and they fry very quickly. The E-Maxx just draws too many amps for cheap cells to last long, especially 3000's. That many milliamps means that they're expected to put out decent voltage for twice as long as 1500's, which means the cells get to suffer that much longer each run. If you're looking for cheaper batteries that will work well, I would suggest the Trinity Zip Pak II's. I have 3 pairs of those for my truck, and while they don't hold their voltage as well as my matched 3000HV's, they do better than every other sport pack I've seen. Continuing w/ the snow, it's a ton of fun, but you've gotta make sure you dry your truck off afterwards because things will rust. I would suggest getting a stainless steel hardware kit for any vehicle that's going to see water, as steel rusts very quickly. As for the stock motors, they kick ass. the only thing better on the market is brushless. The Trinitys are faster, but they're not worth the maintenence. Yes, the stock Titans will wheelie the truck with ease, hell, they'll backflip it if you clamp down the slipper enough. However, second gear cannot be changed. You can put massive pinions on the thing (I've run 22 tooths before) if you're looking for more top speed, but beware, run time will be very low with that setup, and your batteries and motors will be very hot, as the Titans will want a lot of juice to pull max RPM's with that kind of gearing. Granted if your batteries can handle it, you'll have a helluva show. When I put my street tires on, put my matched packs in, and run the 22/66 gearing, my truck still wheelies a bit, and top speed is wicked. The one thing I could suggest for more top speed and better off-road ability is the 7 cell conversion. If you don't know what I mean, check out www.traxxas.com for directions. Running two 7 cell packs (in a special configuration to fit) adds a few miles per hour and a bit of horsepower to push taller gears, not to mention improving the already mountain pulling torque. My Zip Pak II's I mentioned earlier are all in 7 cell configuration, and I love them. I would suggest only doing this with better batteries though. Those dirt cheap Epics or Duratrax Sharks do not hold up to the amp draw very well at all and you'll end up buying better packs in the end anyways. Hope this makes sense and I hope it helps.

[Maxxcrazy]

Some updated pics. Its a bit blurry but you can see it.

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_15_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_16_full.jpg

[Maxxcrazy]

Expect:

Delrin lower rear H arms that mount the knuckles horizonal instead of vertical.

Rear upper turnbuckle arms

1/4in 7075 aluminum. Will be machined out in the middle to reduce weight. (7075 is one of the strongest aluminum alloys availible)

RPM front arms and knuckles

1/4in Lexan lower chassis to replace the 3/16in aluminum plate

Hacker power. B50 8S and Master Car Sport on 10 cells

Crowd Pleaser body with a 1970 1/2 Camaro grill and lights

40 series velocity with Bow ties.

The goal is to make a very fast, very leight race truck that uses completly new parts and to introduce a whole new Maxx suspension set up.

[spoolin]

Hey guys,
I have had my e maxx for around a year now and havnt realy had time to use it. but i just orded a few parts to get it going 100% again.

What is the difference between the MIP CVD kit and the porline MIP CVD kit.

I just orded the proline cvd kit from RCBoys.com aswell as a few other parts.
Here are a few pics of my maxx. :)

http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/newcamera/EMAXX/WhiteMaxx3.jpg
http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/newcamera/EMAXX/action4.jpg
http://slidecentral.rs-scooby.com/newcamera/EMAXX/dirt1.jpg

[4wdmt]

metalry101, nice tips and review, very informative.

spoolin, nice pics, one question though, hows the performance of the shocks when you have only 2 trinity light blue spring shocks and 2 stock spring ones on each end of the E? any comments? i was about to order 2 sets of those trinity springs to replace all of my stock ones, i might try your set-up and save money at the same time. thanks. BTW, nice shiny silver cans :D .

[spoolin]

4wdmt:
Thanks.
The springs are not trinity they are RC Raven progresive springs (http://www.socks4shocks.com/Raven%20Springs.htm) i orded from socks4shocks.com.

They seem too stiff to run on all 8 shocks, but they work great with 4.

I still have another set of 4 springs (never used) so if you want them i will give them to you for $10us.

Email me if you are interested. :)

[Lord Radeon]

I never liked dual rate springs, too unpredictable around a track (especially in whoops sections)

Shock socks work great, just not worth the time and effort to me. They dont last long enough to be worth much

[Maxxcrazy]

I'd like to personally thank everyone that replied to the post I made.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well i am curious how fast i could get the e maxx going with a 7 cell gp 3300 battery set up and 66:22 gear ratio?My truck it on the lighter side and i was just curious how fast this would take me. IN MPH? Also what about with just 6 cell packs? thanks a lot. Would it keep up with my t maxx 2.5? thanks

[Lord Radeon]

22 is way too high of a gear for 14 cells. 19/66 is the highest you should go. And no, it wont keep up with a 2.5

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well metalry metioned using 66:22 so i thought i may give it a try so thanks. Would a hacker e maxx keep up with a 2.5?

[TeamMishap]

As soon as it stops raining, I'm going to clock my Hacker B50-12S equipped Maxx, on 12 cells, with my new GPS. I'll post speeds when I get them.

[TeamMishap]

I only hit 28.2 mph with my Hackered E-Maxx. I'm not sure what my current limiter is set at. Gearing is 66/18.

I was having glitching problems, so I was a little wusslike with the throttle. I felt kinda gay running down the street chasing my truck (laughs). I never got a good sustained top speed. I've noticed my GPS lags a few seconds when accelerating when I'm driving the car, so I'm thinking if I can keep the trigger pegged for a longer period of time, I'll get a better reading.

I know I'm not getting anywhere near 40, but I gotta be hitting 30, right?

Anyone else have confirmed speeds for their BL E-Maxxes?

[Lord Radeon]

A 12 wind hacker isnt going to go very fast with that gearing. Add two teeth to your pinion and two cells and you'll be much closer to 40.

[TeamMishap]

The master comp is only rated for 12 cells. And Hacker makes it clear that there is no room to fudge more than 12 cells on the controller. Not having any ancedotal evidence of running more than 12 cells, I'm not going risk blowing my controller up. :)
I will get a little bigger pinion though.

Thanks for the advice.

[Lord Radeon]

Why'd you buy a controller for a 12 wind motor that can only support 12 cells? Such a waste :confused:

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Why'd you buy a controller for a 12 wind motor that can only support 12 cells? Such a waste :confused:

Cause I'm retarded. I didn't know at the time that other Hacker controllers would work in a car/truck application.

[Lord Radeon]

Hacker controllers are great for their lower wind (read, 10 or lower) motors. But for anything bigger then 10, I'd look elsewhere for a controller that can handle at least 16 cells. With brushless, adding cells is adding power. It's nearly almost linear. Add 20% voltage, you'll get ~18% speed.

[elctroTEEN]

Well here goes this is my emaxx on my mini rock pile next to my not so muddy mud pit

[Maxxcrazy]

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_32_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_33_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_34_full.jpg

[metalry101]

Maxxcrazy~
I'll be honest. If the parts got any uglier I'd cry, but they look functional, and damn, I bet the thing races well. However, you might try reducing some weight off of those towers, and especially off of the arms. I do like the lay down hub idea. I really have no clue how it'll work, but it is a cool idea. The steering, umm, no. Seriously, just pick up something else, like the SuperMaxx steering assembly(it's pricey) or the Pro-Line steering setup. Neither's all that cheap, but they're better, and they have integrated servo savers so you don't have to replace the crappy ones every five runs. And, the last thing, please ditch the stock hingepins. They don't work w/ the aluminum. Ti pins are only 20 bones. The overall idea of your truck seems to be pretty good, but it could definately use some fine touches. Radiusing the front and rear sides of the H-Arms would make them look infinitely better, reduce unnecessary weight, and help deflect blows. Looks tough tough.

[Maxxcrazy]

The towers weigh half an ounce each. I'm replacing the lower chassis with a 1/4in plate of lexan.

The steering will stay on for a little while. Maybe a little down the road, i'll get the pro-line kit.

Finnally, someone realizes that the hubs are lay down ones. It'll work basically the same as stock but eliminates the chance of the rear toe link popping or unscrewing off. (had that happen a few times) It also moves the turnbuckle above the H arm and eliminates the need for a platic upper arm.

I'm not made of money, I'll replace the hingepins and turnbuckles with titanium units down the road. The hingepins are threaded partway into the bulkhead, I'll have to tap the rest.

The parts are certainly not made to be the prettiest, they're made to work. I did spend a lot of time on the lower chassis

In case you didn't notice, the arms are plastic, Delrin to be exact. Its one of the strongest plastics, but it does need beef to work properly, so I'm not going to drill a bunch of holes or cut them where they don't need to be cut.

[metalry101]

Still like the overall design concept. Just needs some refining, like every design. Edison (God I hope that's right) didn't invent the lightbulb on his first try, ya know. I'm just trying to help critique it, just like you critiqued it and made modifications to your original plans when you thought of some better way to implement an idea or something. I'm just giving you my perspective on it, just like you asked.

Half an ounce? Damn, they look a lot heavier than that. That's cool though.

As for the lay down system, I understand the physical concept completely. I meant I didn't know if it would offer any performance enhancements over stock. I can already see a few downsides. The flex in a crash would probably go down, as I'm pretty sure that delrin is just gonna take the hit or break, and not flex a bit. Also, the toe isn't nearly as adjustable as before. I can't really see advantages to this setup though. You lose a little weight that is normally up higher, and offset by having the very bulky Delrin arm down low, so this lowers your CG, but not significantly. Also, if the thing is gonna see air, I'm not sure those mounting screws up top are gonna handle the impact. The shocks have a lot of leverage on them when they're mounted that far out from tower. The tower looks beefy enough to handle it, but I doubt the hardware can. Granted, it's a race truck, it's probably not going to be seeing the clouds anytime soon, but you see my point.

As for the chassis, didn't look at them that closely before. The bottom chassis is cool, and should be much better once it's lexan, as it won't weight as much. The upper deck looks nice, especially the servo mount. I know it's nothing special really, but it still looks cool. I see one problem w/ the design though. Even w/ those massively thick slabs of aluminum, flex could still be quite an issue, as it doesn't matter if the chassis doesn't flex if everything it's bolted to does. In this case that's the lower skids, which at the moment are plastic. Also, you've got like 8 inches or whatever between the bulkheads where the chassis plates need to tied together. I can see that there are some posts, but I doubt that's doing much to avoid flex. They'll prevent the plates from folding in half on a hard impact, but they're not going to do anything for the torsional rigidity.

And yes, as I stated earlier, I knew that those were Delrin, but still, blocks? You couldn't at least round the edges to make it look a little more professional? I'm not trying to diss your work, it's creative and it's relatively well executed, but rounding the edges isn't going to hurt their strength enough to notice, at least it shouldn't if the material is quality. Anyways, it would also help prevent the arm from catching on things, which would mean it wouldn't be forced to absorb as many impacts in the first place.

Just my .02 or maybe all of that would be closer to 1.02, but the point is the same.

[RCGuru1]

Hey guys I'm thinking of getting rid of my xxxt MFE and going Emaxx cuz I never race it. Whats the main difference between the wide maxx and the original? And when did they start making the WideMaxx are all the new Emaxx's widemaxx now? Are the monster maxx motors worth upgrading too? Have alot of questions but appreciate any help you could give. :D

[4wdmt]

RCGuru1, i think most of the e-maxx sold now are all widemaxx edition. the difference with the original is the new suspension, shock towers, and driveline components (much more beefier). it share with the t-maxx 2.5 suspension set up. (see their website for more details). aside from that, its all carry over. i cant tell anything for the monster maxx motors since i never bought/use one. but one thing is for sure. stock motors with 7 cell is fast enough. you can gear it up if you want more speed. just be carefull with not to overdo it. good luck.

i have a question with you guys, can i use my TXT-1 wheels on my e-maxx if i install the ESP clod wheel adaptor? thanks.

[metalry101]

4wdmt~
Ya, you can run your TXT-1 tires w/ those adapters. They look badass too, I've seen it in action. It made it hard to roll even an original width Maxx. You'll want to gear down a bit though, as those tires are quite a bit taller than stock (obviously you know that if you've already got the tires).

[4wdmt]

thanks metalry101. they cost a bit though, just want to be sure. too bad i already glued my TXT-1 wheels and tires without inserts.

[Lord Radeon]

Acetone > Super Glue :cool:

[Burnout]

Final pics of my truck before I sold it. Someone walked away with 2 EMaxxes for $250...am I a nice guy or what! I have purchased another maxx 2 months ago and decided I needed a gas and a one battery pack truck.

[Burnout]

One more picture.

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by Burnout
Final pics of my truck before I sold it. Someone walked away with 2 EMaxxes for $250...am I a nice guy or what! I have purchased another maxx 2 months ago and decided I needed a gas and a one battery pack truck.

Not very nice at all. Didn't offer them here for $250. (laughs)
I'm jealous.

[Burnout]

Well to be more detailed...I sold the one shown (rtr) and a stock roller. The roller was purchased for $50 in Oct but it was absolutely disgusting. Cleaned it and use stock parts from my Maxx and extra parts he gave me. All I had to buy was front bulks and skid. Totally restored it in excellent condition.

But yeah, I could've made much more money I think from selling here or eBay. I put the roller for $100 in the paper, one guy came to look at it and I told him give me $250 right now and you got yourself 2 EMaxxes and all the box, documents, and a bunch of parts. Not like some people here, I don't go around asking outrageous prices for my items.

[TeamMishap]

Sometimes you just want to get rid of the stuff for a fair price. I'm still jealous.

When I tried and failed miserably at RC flying, I sold everything I had for $100. I was ready to throw everything in the trash, so $100 was great. I won't be getting out of RC land vehicles anytime soon. My 2 1/2 year old twins would not be happy with me.

Merry Christmas everyone!

[Burnout]

That is very true. When you have to get rid of it quick that's when you set these low prices! Plus am not a kid or a guy that's strapped for cash. Already an adult and have a steady job so sometimes its no big deal if I have to loose some money.

[Maxxcrazy]

Originally posted by 4wdmt
i have a question with you guys, can i use my TXT-1 wheels on my e-maxx if i install the ESP clod wheel adaptor? thanks.

No!

TXT wheels use a larger hole design than Clod/Jugg rims. You'd need to drill out the holes in the adapter to use TXT wheels.

[Goodie1994]

Ok I have a waterproof question. I have an E-Maxx and I have done this (http://www.freewebs.com/rcnitro/maxx.htm) to waterproof it.

I don't like this method even though it does work good. What I wanna know is if anyone makes a reciever box style box for an ESC like the one in the E-maxx. I'll even throw the ESC into a large enough box, mount a cooling fan and run the wires. I just need abit of help finding something that will work because I have tried to find something online with no luck and tried to build one and that didnt turn out well at all.

Thanks for any help guys, and Merry Christmas.

[Lord Radeon]

Shrink wrap the EVX. Let the heatsinks poke through and RTV around the seams. Works fine

[Goodie1994]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Shrink wrap the EVX. Let the heatsinks poke through and RTV around the seams. Works fine

Dang, I was kinda hopeing for a solid plastic or metal container. I wanna mount a cooling fan from a Video card on top to blow out hot air. I have the plans for it, I just can't seem to find a container. >.<

[Lord Radeon]

If you put a fan on top, it wont be waterproof. Think about it :p

A closed box is bad news. Gets real hot real quick

[minimole]

hi, my names Duane a.k.a. minimole. im 13, and i live in London in the UK. (anybody else on here live in the UK?)
Ive had quite a few r/c cars, ( hpi sprint gti, hpi rs4 mt electric, kyosho ep2 e.t.c)
I was thinking of getting the b4 buggy, but then i found somewhere where i can get the emaxx cheap, and decided it would be so much more fun!!!!
So i went out and got it , its HUGE!!!!
its cmpletlye stock, and im running 2 sanyo mathched 3000 pavks at the moment, althouigh i have two cheapo 3000s in the post.
i will be using it for bashing only, on the road, on grass and gravel.
I took it out for a quick spin todya, and loved it. Although it didnt do very good wheelies (the slpipper wasnt done up prperly ) i loved it speed, and the size of it :) lol
how are you meant to tightn up the slipper, i know you do it wioth the spanner on the big nut,. but it just turns round, so i had to hold on to the pinion gear, but i couldnt tighten it properly.
Thanks, Duane

[Goodie1994]

I took the cover off my slipper so i could hold the spur gear with my hand when tightening it up. I found that if you try to just adjust it with the cover still on that the truck just wants to creep on you and it really hard to tighten. Taking off the cover made it easer for me. Just tighten the nut all the way down , then back it off 1\4 turn and you'll be all set. Also while you have the cover off (if you do take it off) take a look for any wear on your gearing and check the Gear mesh to make sure it's still ok.

[SerpentKing101]

I have a few E-Maxx questions. I'm a proud owner of one (Model 3906 Widemaxx, Channel 6, blue), but I never did get a chance to build it and learn what makes it tick and tock...

1. Under hard acceleration at low speeds, the truck makes this whirring noise as if the wheels were spinning, but they arent. The truck doesnt do wheelies anymore. Is that a sign of gear or transmisson damage?

2. I use dual 3300 Ni-MH 6-cell stick packs in my E-Maxx, but I'm not blessed with either a peak charger or a dual one (Its a Mega 2). About how long can I charge them at 4 amps?

3. Is it possible to stuff twin HV-MAXX or Hacker Brushless motors in my E-Maxx (its stock) without frying/snapping something?

4. Would 12 alkaline cells (i know they suck, I KNOW!) fry the EVX? If not, would those 18 volts increase speed?

5. Do you guys use a better ESC than the EVX? (better as in able to take more voltage and the lowrest turn motors) If so, what are your recommendations?

[chuckwagon123]

Can the E Maxx be run on just 6 cells? If so does it eat up the run time and does it stll have lots of torque?

Thanks

[Goodie1994]

Originally posted by SerpentKing101
I have a few E-Maxx questions. I'm a proud owner of one (Model 3906 Widemaxx, Channel 6, blue), but I never did get a chance to build it and learn what makes it tick and tock...

1. Under hard acceleration at low speeds, the truck makes this whirring noise as if the wheels were spinning, but they arent. The truck doesnt do wheelies anymore. Is that a sign of gear or transmisson damage?

2. I use dual 3300 Ni-MH 6-cell stick packs in my E-Maxx, but I'm not blessed with either a peak charger or a dual one (Its a Mega 2). About how long can I charge them at 4 amps?

3. Is it possible to stuff twin HV-MAXX or Hacker Brushless motors in my E-Maxx (its stock) without frying/snapping something?

4. Would 12 alkaline cells (i know they suck, I KNOW!) fry the EVX? If not, would those 18 volts increase speed?

5. Do you guys use a better ESC than the EVX? (better as in able to take more voltage and the lowrest turn motors) If so, what are your recommendations?


@ Question 1. YOur Maxx is fine. It's your Slipper Clutch that is making that noise and needs adjustment.

@Question 2. I didnt know the Mega 2 could charge Ni-Mh...I though it was a NiCad only charger..

@ Question 3 I dunno about this one. Some guys here that have this would be better at answering it.

@ Question 4 I don't think it's advised to go above 14v

@ Question 5 I can't see what's wrong with the one that comes with it. After all it's a Novak and workd great. Im sure someone here can help though

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by SerpentKing101
I have a few E-Maxx questions. I'm a proud owner of one (Model 3906 Widemaxx, Channel 6, blue), but I never did get a chance to build it and learn what makes it tick and tock...

1. Under hard acceleration at low speeds, the truck makes this whirring noise as if the wheels were spinning, but they arent. The truck doesnt do wheelies anymore. Is that a sign of gear or transmisson damage?

2. I use dual 3300 Ni-MH 6-cell stick packs in my E-Maxx, but I'm not blessed with either a peak charger or a dual one (Its a Mega 2). About how long can I charge them at 4 amps?

3. Is it possible to stuff twin HV-MAXX or Hacker Brushless motors in my E-Maxx (its stock) without frying/snapping something?

4. Would 12 alkaline cells (i know they suck, I KNOW!) fry the EVX? If not, would those 18 volts increase speed?

5. Do you guys use a better ESC than the EVX? (better as in able to take more voltage and the lowrest turn motors) If so, what are your recommendations?

1: Tighten your slipper hercules tight.

2: 50 minutes from a full drain. Stop if they get hot. You want them pleasantly warm.

3: Yes, until you start to go. Brushless = Torque. Torque = Broken everything

4: Maybe, and no. They couldn't give the amps to turn the titans. But 18 volts would probably fry the EVX, so I wouldnt advise it even if they could put out the juice. 16 Volts peak is your maximum.

5: You don't need to, unless you go brushless. Stock motors on 7 matched cells each is the fastest your going to go without going brushless.

[Lord Radeon]

Also, to the rest of you, I found the easiest way to adjust slipper is to stick a thick allen key in the gear teeth between the slipper gear and the pinion gear. That will keep it from moving.

[minimole]

i love my new truck, even though ive bent the screws for the front bumper, bent one of the suspension hinge pins, and just broken the rear body mount....

so should i just get a direct replacement for the bodymount, or is there a worthwile upgrade for a person on a very low bugdet?
Also, what about upgrading the bumpers, and the skid plates?
Thanks Duane:D

[SerpentKing101]

Thanks guys! You both really helped out. I went ahead and tightened that slipper (done by sticking allens into the hex screws behind the wheels) so I can continue scraping the paint off the bumper...Wonder if Traxxas makes wheelie bars for the Maxx...

[minimole]

"Also, to the rest of you, I found the easiest way to adjust slipper is to stick a thick allen key in the gear teeth between the slipper gear and the pinion gear. That will keep it from moving."
Never thought of this, might try this, its just, couldnt this screw up the gears?Just wondering.....
If anyone as any tips for the emaxx, i would be bvery grateful if you could share them to me...
Duane

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by minimole
"Also, to the rest of you, I found the easiest way to adjust slipper is to stick a thick allen key in the gear teeth between the slipper gear and the pinion gear. That will keep it from moving."
Never thought of this, might try this, its just, couldnt this screw up the gears?Just wondering.....
If anyone as any tips for the emaxx, i would be bvery grateful if you could share them to me...
Duane

Nah, the gears are strong enough to hold it. I still had the factory spur gear on my brushless maxx after 2 years.

[Goodie1994]

I have only had my Maxx since Oct and I don't really know what's good and what sux for upgrade parts. I'm gonna have a large sum of money on Monday and would like to upgrade my maxx. Even though I'm going to have lots of money for it I want to keep the cost low, I wanna save some of it, lol. Here are a few things I threw I'm looking at. I would like you guys to post opinions on the stuff i have selected and to give opinions on stuff that might be better. Thanks everyone. :)


Pro Line body (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/bodies/3118/3118.jpg)

I need a new body cuz I rolled my Maxx and my old one Cracked.


New Rubber (http://www.imexrc.com/images/IMX7412.jpg)

Im still new the Maxx world so i don't really know what works best for somethings, I hope these tires are ok. opinoins???

New rims (http://www.imexrc.com/images/imx7066.jpg)

Same goes for rims, I don't know whats what so please post opinions.


New Steering servo (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ85&P=7)

Needs this in a bad way, lol.


I havent bid yet on the Ebay stuff, but i will on monday :) Whats cool though is that the dude lives in canada for all items :) no dang exchange :)

Punisher Package on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3166769234&category=19168)

New A-Arms on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3166734719&category=34063)

New Steering Knuckles on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3166729453&category=34063)


What do you guys think? Did I pick ok Stuff?? If anything is not good quality please let me know and I'll change it. Thx Guys

[minimole]

yeh, i just tried it, works very well...
Should i an upgrade for the rear body mount, or just get a replacement...

Duane

[SerpentKing101]

A lesson I learned today...never let friends who are R/C noobs drive your E-Maxx....

A long story short...my truck got into a fight with some bricks and lost. My truck went from top speed to a near halt, and seemed to hover about 3 ft in the air before landing upside-down.

Both rear body posts snapped completely (temporary repair: scotch tape and CA glue), and a body pin was bent (fixed) . Also, the entire rear suspension is messed up, but I cant tell whats broken my looking at it. Everything else is in full working order.

If you were to fully compress the suspension manually, the front will recover as normal, but the rear stays down. You have to put a bit more force on the suspension to move it up and down.

[guver]

How about a bent shock shaft? or two?

[Lord Radeon]

I've destroyed four hinge pins, two A-Arms, three shocks, Four shock shafts, a knuckle, both bulkheads, and a diff in one big hit with my old brushless rig :p

Landed 50/50 on a post going full speed off of the biggest jump. Wasnt pretty.

MY favorite tire for loose dirt was the maxx mulcher with racer's edge 2stage foam inserts. I used Sportmaxx wheels, because they're the best looking and strongest plastic wheels out there. I stripped out too many proline wheels, went to these, and had no problems.

[SerpentKing101]

I was able to take out and put those suspensions pins back in, but the problem persists. I couldnt tell by a visual inspection that they were bent (i have a good eye for stuff like that). I dont wanna blow six bucks on something that looks near perfect (those six bucks can get me an excellent lunch, Chick Fil'A style.)

At least the Maxx is still driveable, but it looks like its accelerating, even at rest (those Proline spinners cant touch this sense of motion)

[Maxxcrazy]

a little update

polished pivot balls for suspension smoothness
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_45_full.jpg

RRP spur gear
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_46_full.jpg

hack rear shock limiters
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_47_full.jpg

custom tower with my integy shocks.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_48_full.jpg

[Lord Radeon]

Not to bash, but you'd be faster with a plastic spur. Those steel things are HEAVY

[Maxxcrazy]

It doesn't weigh that much more, but i do have a kimbrough spur I was thinking about putting on.

[Lord Radeon]

It weighs about 5 times as much... around 60 grams more. IE: around 240grams of difference, considering it's rotating mass. JMO

[Maxxcrazy]

i'll install it later

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_49_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_50_full.jpg

[minimole]

im lovin my E,
i decided to just get the stock replacement for the rear body mohnt, so now i wanna get sum cheap but effective upgrades....
i know id love the bling bling alu stiff, but it doesnt really help, so i want stuff that will make the truck more efficient, faster and a hell of a lot quiter(my dads kinda gettin anoyed by the racket) I cant really afford brushless, although i may think of gettin one in mybe a yera or so lol.
so what do you think i should get?

[minimole]

oh yeah, is the emaxx meant to be realy noisy, and are ours quieter in second than in first? Would dpme new gears help?
Thanks for any help Duane

[minimole]

hey why has it all gone quite?
i need answers..
lol Duane:D

[minimole]

alright, so yesterday i broke:
the front skid plate,
front upper a arm,
fropnt bulkhead (this is becuase there wsnt a skid plate to protect it, and the bulkhead broke)
i also bent a load more new screws.

so, ive decided i will save up a bit, and upgrade some of the parts, so i wont keep on breaking the stock parts. what parts should i upgrade. i dont have much money, im only 13, not working, so i have a very low bugdet. would alloy skidplates be any goo, are alloy bulkheads neccasary?
what about the arms, are the rpm ones good? worth the money?
oh yeah, i want to get a brushless eventually..., so i cant spend to much, what about upgrades for that...?

any help appreciated
Duane
:confused:

[minimole]

oh yeah (copied of another board)
" my steering on my emaxx has gone wierd. when you are driving almost top speed, in either first or second, and you turn, it will turn, but then when you let go of the wheel, it carries on turning until u hit a wall. the only way you can stop it is to brake hard, not even letting of the throtttle helps...
And then i took it all apart, and put it together again, just took it out, but then the turnig circle is complety crap, and also the mucked up steering has come back
what should i do????????/ i dont really mind bying a new servo, one of the 30quid hitec ones, although i would prefer it if i didnt have to buy a new one if there is anything i can do..."

what do you think,
im thinkin of gettin the titec 645, or whatever, but dunno, would prefer if i could spend the money on other bits, but if i dont have another option, i dont mind...
Duane:mad:

[Maxxcrazy]

Wow, 5 posts in a row, that'll do wonders for your post count.

Scroll up a little bit and you'll see my Maxx. Its mostly custom made, but all of the material costs and other store bought hop ups add up to over $1500. Not to mention my 3 other RC's. I'm 14 so theres still hope. No help from my parents, I do work on a farm during the summers

[minimole]

im now thinkin of gettin the blue rpm arms. ill probably just get the front cos of the price, but when i haver more money, ill get the rear. are the rpm ones the same dimensions as the stock ones? i mean do i need to get anything else, or can i just stick them on a stock emaxx?
r alu skids worth it? r these any gud? cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3169437598&category=1200
oh yeah, should i get alu bulkheads, as mine only broke cos there wasnt a front skid protecting it form an on coming kerb lol....?

thanks (please reply soon, i wanna know what to get...)
Duane:confused:

[Goodie1994]

Originally posted by minimole
im now thinkin of gettin the blue rpm arms. ill probably just get the front cos of the price, but when i haver more money, ill get the rear. are the rpm ones the same dimensions as the stock ones? i mean do i need to get anything else, or can i just stick them on a stock emaxx?

I just ordeder these and and everything else RPM makes except the shocks and i have to wait 10 days for delivery, bleh. lol . but to answer your question ,RPM makes A-Arms for the older Maxx and the wide maxx. make sure you get the right ones for your truck. If you buy the right ones made for your truck you won't have any troubles fitting them on, just make sure you have the right ones.

[minimole]

hey, is everyone on holiday or suttin, cos its been well quite, and i need answers
lol:D

Duane:cool:

[associatedguy08]

I like aluminum skids but they add xtra weight when you could replace the stock skid and put RPM skids on over the stock ones. Well I think the RPM skids go over the stock ones? I ordered a set of these because weight isnt an issue for me:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3168222903

Plus they look cool!

[minimole]

how much heavier are alu skids than the styock oners, do they make a noticable difference?
would the blue alumiun look really dumb with the light blue rpm arms?

Thanks Duane

[r.c.dealer]

The rpm skids do go over and cover the skids.


If your going to get new skids I would highly recommend getting titanium skids. Ti is alot more resilient and resistant to bending than aluminum. I have added Hardcore Ti skids to my Tmaxx, they seem to be very comparable in weight to the stock skids.

[SerpentKing101]

Good news, bad news...

good news: i finally figured out what was ailing my rear suspension. I apparently over tightened those hexes that you adjust camber with. All i have to deal with now is that snapped body post...but the truck is still very runnable.

Bad news...more questions!

1. anyone have a solution to fix front wheel lift in hard corners? I put all 8 of the large spacers in the front suspension, but it doesnt help much. Is there a good spring placement to correct it?

2. If the EVX is in profile 1, is braking increased? I run mine in profile 3, and its bad stopping power helped in the breaking of the aforementioned body post.

[chuckwagon123]

A few Questions about the emaxx.

1. Stock what is the approx. top speed in first gear. I am hoping it is slowish.

2. no other ?s

[chuckwagon123]

A few Questions about the emaxx.

1. Stock what is the approx. top speed in first gear. I am hoping it is slowish.

2. no other ?s

[Performance RC]

Originally posted by chuckwagon123
A few Questions about the emaxx.

1. Stock what is the approx. top speed in first gear. I am hoping it is slowish.

2. no other ?s

I think RCCA tested the stock one at 25. on 12 cells.:)

[Performance RC]

Originally posted by SerpentKing101
Good news, bad news...

good news: i finally figured out what was ailing my rear suspension. I apparently over tightened those hexes that you adjust camber with. All i have to deal with now is that snapped body post...but the truck is still very runnable.

Bad news...more questions!

1. anyone have a solution to fix front wheel lift in hard corners? I put all 8 of the large spacers in the front suspension, but it doesnt help much. Is there a good spring placement to correct it?

2. If the EVX is in profile 1, is braking increased? I run mine in profile 3, and its bad stopping power helped in the breaking of the aforementioned body post.

1. I think the back would need to be stiffer. I have never had any problems with that. But then again my E_maxx isnt exactly stock

2. The EVX has profiles?

[SerpentKing101]

Profile 1: Forward/Reverse/Brakes (default)
Profile 3: Forward/25% Reverse/Brakes

On profile 1, it is possible to do wheelies in first gear in reverse, you may be able to hit max speed backwards, but any kind of forward throttle or steering would prolly do very nasty things to driveline components.

[Lord Radeon]

Max speed in reverse is 75%, not 100%

[huasze]

hey, anyone know the estimated rpm of 550 titans on 14.4v?
would dual 540s on 7.2vs each be enough for the e-maxx without frying the esc? i'm not so interested in speed cos i already have one maxx that's staying stock.(i'll be using either a rooster, lrp f1 pro or a super rooster)

[guver]

If my source is correct 14.4 volts is 19,800 free run rpm
and 17,620 rpm at max efficiency and 119 watts and 10.5 amps

[SerpentKing101]

a sick one at that...

Phase 1: Make it good as new
4914 Body Mount Posts
4917 Shock Tower (if i cant get those nubs out from the snapped post)

Phase 2: Make it look good
Parma Chevrolet TrailBlazer body
Proline Mambo wheels
Proline 40-series spinner attachment (maybe)
Proline Racing Road Rage 40 series

Phase 3: Make it stronger
4923X Lower Chassis Braces
4947X Transmission Skid Plate
3993X Lightweight Input Shaft/Drive Gear Assembly
4929-30X Machined Aluminum Bulheads front and rear
2728 Ball Bearings
4939R Titanium Suspension Pin Set

Final Phase: Make it GO!
HV-Maxx Brushless motor system (dual motors very probable)
Proline Dual Rate Suspension Full Kit

If you have reccomendations for cheaper and better parts, tell me!

I guess ill have to start this walkthrough off with some pics of the Maxx right now...

[guver]

Someone use some Li-po's and let us know how they do in the e-maxx please. I don't have any extra money.

[alexrckid]

is -1 degree on rear toe enough for an E-MAXX that is used untirely for dirt track racing ??????...would -1 degree provide enough straight-line stability.????

[Lord Radeon]

Li-Pos can't handle the current spikes the EMaxx puts out.

[crawlermaxx]

what is the shock fluid weight in the stock shocks? Thanks.

[alexrckid]

30wt comes in the stock MAXX shocks...........puttin in at least 50wt helps mucho......

[Goodie1994]

Hey guys I have a question for you all. I just bought and installed everything RPM makes for the E-Maxx. After getting it all together I noticed that the rear tires have wicked bad Toe in. When I went to adjust them the adjustment was already fully adjusted. How much Toe in should the E-Maxx have? When it was Stocks parts it was fine but now it's out a bit. I made sure to buy the Wide Maxx parts too.

I was also wondering if anyone here has Imex tires on their Maxx. I noticed that the foams don't fit right. Can i cut them or will it matter ???

[alexrckid]

so, you're saying that you have rear turnbuckles are adjusted to be as short as they possibly can be....right ??........... also, how far do you have the pillow balls screwed into the upper and lower arms ???...are there any threads exposed ???

[Goodie1994]

Originally posted by alexrckid
so, you're saying that you have rear turnbuckles are adjusted to be as short as they possibly can be....right ??........... also, how far do you have the pillow balls screwed into the upper and lower arms ???...are there any threads exposed ???

crap, i never thought of the pillow balls.When i put them in i screwed them all in so the threads would not show. I bet that's what caused it. The turn buckles are adjusted to be as short as they can be. I bet if i adjusr the pillowballs out abit more then play with the turnbuckle adjustment it might just fix it. Thx man!!!:D

[alexrckid]

ya, twist those pillow balls out until you see at least 3-4 threads..........and, grab ahold of the RPM camber adjustment guage..it works super good for setting the all important CAMBER...set the from toe at 0 degrees and the rear toe at around -1 to -2 degrees...........you can do the toe using a straightedge( i use a 2 foot level) and the RPM camber guage....glad that you've got a fix on the binding issue.

[alexrckid]

also, GOODIE1994, do the camber adjustment before you do the toe adjustment...................and, after exposing a few threads on the top pillow ball, leave it alone......do the CAMBER adjustment with the lower one.

[Goodie1994]

Ok thx man I'll get at this adjusting this week. :D

[cwginkc]

Would you E-Maxx guys give me some names of company's that make long wheelbase chassis for the Emaxx? I found one last year, but cannot seem to remember who it was.

Thanks,

Chris

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by cwginkc
Would you E-Maxx guys give me some names of company's that make long wheelbase chassis for the Emaxx?

I love my Bombproof Lexan Chassis. It's stable as a rock even under brushless power.

[SerpentKing101]

I broke a output yoke a few days ago. Front wheel drive is fun...:rolleyes: The crazy thing about it is that it broke AFTER i lowered the ramp (4 feet to 8 inches).

How can I work on upgrading the monster when it breaks stuff?

[TeamMishap]

They put my Emaxx in the newest RC driver Show Offs section!

[Goodie1994]

Here is a pic of my E-Maxx after I did the Mods to it. I just finished this about 2 weeks ago and have not run it yet.

(copy and paste the link into your browser)

http://www.freewebs.com/rcnitro/after2.jpg


what you guys think??

[tadium54]

Your link doesn't work for me.

On a diffrent note, I'm back in the game with a maxx I got as a presnt for hard work ata ajob. So far, its got a peterbilt body, rpm clawz rims and dynamite slick tires, a torpedo chassis and UE center and wheel dogbones. I'm going to get front and rear aluminum bulkheads, aluminum skidplates, and lunsford ti hingepins. Then it should be pretty strong and fun.

[Goodie1994]

Originally posted by tadium54
Your link doesn't work for me.



Did ya copy and paste the link into your address bar? you cant click it cuz freewebs don't allow that.

[tadium54]

There, it worked. Thanks. very nice maxx, I hjad all the rpm stuff you do. Very nice stuff. Dont expect the front and rear bulkhead plates to keep your skids from breaking- I split 2 stock skids with those before I moved up to aluminum skids.

[Mackadew]

I have no throttle on my Maxx. I have switched EVX's and still the same. Batteries are good. Servo channels also work. I don't know what else to try. I changed the motors too.

[henry_huckem]

ESC plugged into channel 2 on the receiver?
Reset ESC?

[Mackadew]

I had the evx plugged into 2 and even switched it to have the steering in 2 and the steering worked. I reset the evx also. I changed the motors b/c mine had a broken capacitor and it still didn't run. The steering and gear shift have always worked.

[guver]

Are the lights working on the evx?

[Mackadew]

The lights are working on the EVX. They respond with forward and reverse after I program them also. I'm stumped, I tried alot.

[guver]

I 'm not know much, but it seems that the esc is working and the trouble is in the motor wires/ connections.

How about checking the motor wires with a voltmeter while pulling trigger?

[Mackadew]

I haven't tried measuring voltage yet, what range should it be at? What do you think the problem is? I have already swapped speed controls and still had no throttle. Would you recommend swapping receivers? I have switched position on the receiver for the throttle and steering servo and the steering worked in place of throttle so I don't think it is a bad channel. All help is appreciated.

[fasteddie9111]

Hi,
maybe this has already been discussed but its kinda bothersome to sort through all those pages of information. Anyways, i was wondering if anyone has run a dual motor setup with mod motors, i guess 17t or lower turn motors. If so what kind of setup did you use and what were the results in terms of runtime and speed? thanks!

[guver]

Originally posted by Mackadew
I haven't tried measuring voltage yet, what range should it be at? What do you think the problem is? I have already swapped speed controls and still had no throttle. Would you recommend swapping receivers? I have switched position on the receiver for the throttle and steering servo and the steering worked in place of throttle so I don't think it is a bad channel. All help is appreciated.

Mack, I think your rx and esc are working ok cuz of the lights. check the voltage at the black and red motor wires, I think it should be about 14-16 volts with the throttle full trigger.

You can also plug a old/spare motor into one set of connectors.
Also with the truck on stand, touch the motor wires to a battery and see if the motor spins, be careful.

[Mackadew]

I have tested the motors. I take the leads off and touch them to my battery, bypassing the speed control and they spin freely. I would think this is my speed control gone bad. The new EVX works properly on another E-maxx. I think I may pull my EVX and swap it to a new truck to see if it works. Thanks again.

[Mackadew]

Anyone else care to take a crack at it? I haven't had a chance to mess with it, just wanna know what else to try.

[SerpentKing101]

are the MIP CVDs for the 2.5 T-Maxx compatible with the E? Im trying to find some, but the only ones i found were for the old Maxxes.

Im going to end up replacing all the crappy plastic in the drivetrain with some kind of metal. then some metal shock towers, then metal body posts...I dont care if i get added weight...Im sick of these things breaking!

[metalry101]

Yes, the CVDs for the E and T are the exact same, if they're the same width. By that I mean, if you've got an original width E then you need the .15 T-Maxx CVDs, if you've got a newer E w/ the Widemaxx suspension or the Pro-Line suspension kit, then you need the 2.5 Maxx CVDs. Also, before trying the aluminum posts and towers, try the RPM stuff. It's cheaper, lighter, and guaranteed not to break under normal use (if you launch it over a house or something, that's not normal, but jumps, curbs, etc, are considered normal). They make great stuff, and it's available in lotza pretty colors :), plus, if you do manage to break it, send it to them and they'll replace it.

fasteddie9111~
I've never tried to run low turn motors like that, but I wouldn't reccomend it. If you're looking for more speed, just run 7 cells or BL or something. There are no low turn mods on the market for the Maxx, so you'd have to run a 540 (instead of 550) motor, which is designed for 7.2 volts, not 14.4. That's not exactly a good thing for them to be subjected to. The setup might be faster for a little while (might) but the motors will wear very very fast, and I would guess that since they're not designed for that much voltage, probably wouldn't be very efficient, meaning run times would go down somewhat. Hope this helps.

[guver]

Originally posted by SerpentKing101
are the MIP CVDs for the 2.5 T-Maxx compatible with the E? Im trying to find some, but the only ones i found were for the old Maxxes.

Im going to end up replacing all the crappy plastic in the drivetrain with some kind of metal. then some metal shock towers, then metal body posts...I dont care if i get added weight...Im sick of these things breaking!

The out drives to the wheels are the same, but the center ones aren't, I think the e has larger trans shaft or something like that.

PS I also agree with everything metalry said too.

[SerpentKing101]

RPM....that stuff is plastic, isnt it? Well..if its stonger than that crap that came with the truck..ill try it. Thanks.

Also looking for some sort of aluminum to replace my half-shafts (#4951)

[TeamMishap]

PRO6010 Maxx Wide CVD's Front or rear
Wide CVD kit for Front or Rear outdrives. Solid parts to make your truck even tougher.

Fits Proline Maxx suspension kit AND E/T-Maxx 2.5!!!
Made by MIP!
from thercproshop.com
---------------------
MIP 1495
Center CVD Kit - E-Maxx

These are becoming tough to find. These work only for the stock chassis. I have a Bombproof Torpedo Chassis, and I can't remember for the life of me which MIPs I used for the center.

[guver]

I was just going to order a race bomb, but they are out of stock right now.... I ruined my stock chassis modifiying it.

[Spoon37]

RPM....that stuff is plastic, isnt it? Well..if its stonger than that crap that came with the truck..ill try it. Thanks.

not really - it is technically plastic but it uses various blends of nylon, to acheive a plstic that is extremely tough and will tend to deform in an impact before returning to its original shape, unlike the stock plastic that snaps.....

as for the drivehsafts try unlimitedengineering.com or more specifically:

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/scan/co=yes/fi=products/sf=category/se=Driveshaft/sf=spare/se=0/op=eq/tf=category/tf=sku.html?id=wt23vIfa&open=

Ti or steel depending on preference - alu is too weak for driveshafts and gears on monsters like the E......

;)

[SerpentKing101]

last noob question before i make a few hobby shops proud...

will the stock length CVD's fit the gorilla maxx chassis? i know the stock peices fit since they adjust, but these are pieces set at length...

when i finish im gonna end up with almost 2 e-maxxes...(the second will need only suspension arms, rear tie rods, and a channel 6 TQ-3 transmitter...)

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello. What is the fastest set up for the e maxx right now.I am thinking of going brushless. Is it the Hacker C50 or the new HV MAxx? Also what is the best esc for the hacker? and about $400 right? also all the rest you need is some steel idler gears, nice chassis, and a few 7 cell packs to top it off right? thanx What are about the top speeds on the C50 and HV? thanks

[metalry101]

I don't think Novak's HV system is on the market quite yet. I think they released it and then pulled it back to do a little more fine tuning. According to Tower, it should be out really soon though. As for performance, the Hacker system is supposed to push the Maxx to 40+ w/ 12 cells, and Novak says theirs will be comparable to other systems on the market right now, so I'd assume it's in that ballpark as well. I don't think the Hacker system can support 14 cells, but I'm not sure. However, I do know that the Novak system will. Pricing... that depends on where you get it. I believe the Hacker system runs from 400-450 depending where you order it from. The Novak is listed at 310 on Tower, so obviously, it's quite a bit cheaper. Plus, you don't need a reciever pack w/ the Novak system, as it incorporates BEC.

As for everything else your Maxx needs, well, I don't run BL so I don't know about the idler gears. Personally, I'd wait till I nuked the stockers b4 buying new ones. However, I can guarantee that you will want CVDs, which will set you back about 150 bux. At the very very least you'll want them for the rear of the truck ('bout 50 bones), and there's not a doubt in my mind that you'll snap the centers very quickly as well, so I'd get them too (again, 50 bones). You might, and I stress MIGHT, be able to get away w/ the stock front drives for a while, but you'll probably end up breaking them sometime too, espcially if you like to nail the brakes on pavement (anoda 50 bones). I broke both front shafts w/ the stock motors by doing that, so I'd think you wouldn't have any trouble doing it w/ a BL power system.

Hope this helps, good luck w/ the BL, post pics when you get it in.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Thanx, I already have some shiny MIP CVD's in the front and back, just not in center. Prolly will get em onc ei go bl. I am leaing toward the HV due to the price but if the hacker tends to be more powerful once the hv is tested. Ill save up the extra hundred. thanx

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello. Ok well i am going Brushless!. I need to no any specs you guys have on the Novak HV Maxx. Will it be as fast asa the AHcker C50 or what? I want the fastest setup for my e maxx. I dont care about good for the money. If the Hacker is better than the HV than i will go with that. Also if i go with the hacker the C50 is the best and fastest motor right? Also what ESC should i go with? I will definately run 14 cells. Please help guys. Thanx mucho!

[TeamMishap]

I've heard the only difference between the Hacker c50 and b50 motor series is that the c50 has the heatsinkish can. I have a B50-12S that I paid $150 for new and modified the Hacker heatsink for a grand total of $162. A new C50 will set you back $219. Both the B50-12S and C50-12 boast 3033 rpm/v. If I didn't have an extended chassis, I'd flip it all the time when I gassed it.

I have the Master Comp controller but it only takes 12 cells max. That's all I'll use so the 12 cell limit is OK by me. If you want to get silly and run 14 cells, you'll need a more powerful controller. I can't recommend any cause I've never used anything but what I have.

Just my opinion.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well than i will jsut get the B50 and put on like a trinity heat sink! What does the 12S stand for? Is that like turns? if so i what the fastest one. Could you let me know please. Also i've heard the schulze 18.61K is a great ESC. It can handle 18 cells so i could run up to 2 9 cell packs if i wanted to. Heard anything about this esc? If so let me no what you think. Right now i am thinking of going with the Hacker B50/Schulze 18.61K ESC combo on two GP 3300 7 cell batts. What do you think? About how much will this set me back and what speeds will i approx get? thanx

[TeamMishap]

You may want to check out the brushless forum for the Shultze/Hacker combo. I know nothing about Shultze controllers.
Any motor questions could be better answered there too.

I've only got 29 mph out of my 12 cell Hacker set up on my E...BUT I don't trust the GPS reading. My GPS seems like you need to attain a constant speed for a period of about 5 seconds or so before taking an accurate speed reading. The street I play on isn't long enough to even get my motor spun all the way up, let alone do it for 5 seconds. Whatever the speed, one Hacker SMOKES the two stockers.

Aircraft-world.com has the motors B50S motors for $165. And they have THE BEST service. The B50-12S I have means 12T and the S stands for short can. It comes with a regular 3.17mm shaft which'll take standard pinions. Be careful not to get a 5mm shaft or you'll have a hard time finding pinions. I think some folks have used the B50-L series in their Es. I think they are torquier, but don't know for sure. They have a B50-8S that gives 4613rpm/v, compared to the 12S with 3033rpm/v, but I hear the 8S has a hard time spinning up a heavy truck like the E. I still wanna get an 8S for my Evader. Check out the product data area on the site for all the motor numbers. It looks like they've changed the data sheets because the C50s numbers aren't matching the B50s anymore.

Lastly, if you do go with a B50 motor, don't get the Trinity sinks. Spend the $12 on the ones from Hacker. They fully jacket the motor. You have to Dremel a piece off for it to work with the EMaxx gear housing, but it's much better than what Trinity makes.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well i caleld the LHS and they are currently out of hacker systems. They gave me some info however. I have decided to get the C50 (most powerful one they said) and the reason they dont have any in is becuz supposivly hacker held up on the master comp esc becuz they are making it to handel 14 cells, anyone hear of this? I will wait for that esc and pick up the C50 with it. I will run it on 14 cells of course too. Im thinking 45-50 MPH. Cant wait!

[TeamMishap]

I'm all for supporting your LHS...but if you don't wanna wait, you could always order it online :)

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello, well i haven't found a place that has the 14 sell master hacker comp esc yet. Also anyway even if i ordeer it i wont get it until its out and they ship it and my LHS is really good w/ stock and will get it in right as soon as it comes out. If any of you however have any links to sites that have the 14 cell esc or a good deal on the C50 let me know. thanx

[rye225]

Anyone know where I can get a Novak Hv For my Dad's E-maxx???



Ordered from Tower hobbies great site and really cheap.


Traxxas Tmaxx, E-maxx and Rusty!! Rock on Traxxas!!

[guver]

I have some good deals on batts in the buy/sell forum

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=158657

[CLICK_666]

hey i was wondering if anyone has tried this and how faster does it make the e-maxx running on 24 cells instead of 12 thanks for the info

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by CLICK_666
hey i was wondering if anyone has tried this and how faster does it make the e-maxx running on 24 cells instead of 12 thanks for the info

Kaboom :rolleyes:

[metalry101]

Lord Radeon~
LOL, nice, very nice.


CLICK_666~
What he's referring to by "Kaboom" is the EVX going up in smoke if you actually tried wiring up 24 cells to it in a series. If you wired it right, you'd get twice the run time and less speed due to a heavier truck. The only possible situation where that battery configuration could have any advantages is if you were running 28.8 volts (AKA- 2 EVX's) to each motor or if you were running dual BL and needed 12 cells per controller. If you have more questions on why this wouldn't work w/ a stock truck, ask.


rye225~
They're not on the market yet, but they're supposed to be out there very soon. So, basically, you can't get one right now.

[CLICK_666]

well the chassis comes with wiring harnesses

heres the pic

[metalry101]

Well yes, but why did you ask about the speed? It's the same voltage, but instead of having a heavy truck running two heavy battery packs, you've got a heavy truck running a heavy chassis (alum is far heavier than plastic) and 4 heavy battery packs. I don't see the gains. I mean you'd get to drive you truck around for twice as long, but whoopdeedo, it'd be slower. Personally, I'm not too lazy to change the packs. I like strong stuff, but I also like performance.

[CLICK_666]

would it be possible to hook up four 7 cell packs?

[metalry101]

Don't know, check out the specs on the chassis to to figure it out. I doubt it does though. Anyways, here are some pics of my Maxx, hopefully...

[CLICK_666]

whats a good chassis that has a 7 cell layout like the gorilla maxx chassis but i want it to have a 7 cell layout not a 8 cell layout(on each side)

[Cildein]

I have that dynamite chassis but I use it for climbing purposes. The extra weight helps with traction and the parrallel circuit keeps the batteries from heating up from strain. As an FYI I found that the GP3300 cells are bigger than normal and when in a stick formation they are a VERY tight fit. I had to strip down the plastic caps to get it to squeeze in.

As for a 7 cell chassis I know that unlimited engineering has a side by side 8 cell.

SuperMaxx™ EXT Lightning Chassis Kit For Traxxas E-Maxx

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/ext_e.shtml

:)

[CLICK_666]

im looking for a chassis that has slots for 7 cells on each side what am i gunna do with a chassis that holds 8 on each side the evx couldnt even take the 16 cells...could it?

anyways which do u think would be better

four 6 cell packs

or

two 7 cell packs

im leaning towards two 7 cell packs if i can find a chassis with the right setup i want

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hello. That unlimited engineerng chassis is nice but the price is sky high as all supermaxx parts are. Also that is 8 cells and you said you only wanted 7 on each side. The bomb-proof line is great and inexpensive. GO: www.bomb-proofproducts.com . They both expand the wheelbase for stability, etc. They both come with no set limit on cells. The torpedo you use battery cups and adjust them to however many cells you want. Up to 9 i believe on each side, sideXside. The race bomb is more racey. Comes with 9 slots for 9 cells side by side. Comes with battery straps to suit your needs for however many cells. Incase you want to run 7 now thats sweet and will be mad efor it and if you want to go to 8 or 9 for BL than you can do it without upgrading to a new chassis. Hope this help. The torpedo sells for $100 and he Race bomb for $150

[metalry101]

I can vouch for the Bombproof Torpedo being good stuff, as that's what I run. As for a chassis that fits 8 cells and you're only needing room for 7, so what? That just means extra room. It should still hold 7 securely, and you'll be able to adjust the weight foward or backwards to suit your needs. Running 7 cells on a chassis designed for 6 is a problem, 7 on a chassis designed for 8 is good. And no, your EVX couldn't handle 16 cells, but some BL systems can, which is one of the reasons they designed it to hold 16 (the weight positioning is the other big reason).

[CLICK_666]

BL = Brushless?

[metalry101]

We have a winner! Tell him what he's won Johnny!

[CLICK_666]

lol sorry ive been out of the hobbie for years and im just trying to stay on top of new things

[metalry101]

It's cool, I wasn't trying to be a dick, sorry if I came off that way.

[CLICK_666]

lol nah thats cool

[TeamMishap]

I vote for the Torpedo too. I love it. My son sits on my E-maxx with a Torpedo chassis and no breakage.

Only thing I don't like about the Torpedo is those stupid battery cups. There has got to be a better way to mount batteries on this chassis. They hold the batteries OK, but I just don't like em.

[CLICK_666]

ive made my choice im going to get the gorillamaxx chassis cuz theres a version that can hold 7 cells on each side and i build my own packs so yeah

[Cildein]

Anyone know if the "6 inch" tires or even "7 inch" tires that Hotbodies makes fits on standard Emaxx rims? I have beadlock maximizers and don't really want to get rid of them just get new tires?

Any opinions on the hot bodies tires and rims would be appreciated.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/standard_monster.html

[metalry101]

No, the 7" tires that HB makes won't mount on stock rims, but you can't buy them as just tires anyways so it doesn't matter. I run them (one of 6 sets, anyone need road tires? I've got 2 sets I need to get rid of) and they're not bad. They're heavy, but not too bad for the size, and they look great, especially w/ the extended chassis. HB's standard tires would fit in your beadlocks I belive. I know they're the right size. The only conflict I could think of is a possible discrepency (spelling) in bead width, but I doubt it'd be an issue.

TeamMishap~
I've seen the light, and there is another way to mount batteries!!!!!!! I hated those battery cups too, especially since my side by side packs literally wouldn't fit in them, so I tossed them and fabbed a velcro system. Go buy a bunch of industrial strength velcro and slap the plastic side (male side I guess???) on the chassis (make sure the chassis is clean so that it'll stick well) and then put a strip on the bottom of your batteries. Then put a little 2" by 3" section on the bottom of the chassis and buy some fuzzy velcro strips (like 18" long or so and stick one end to to the bottom, then wrap it throught the slot in the chassis, over the battery, onto the velcro on the bottom of the chassis, around again, and then secure the end to the velcro on the bottom of the chassis. I don't know if that makes any sense, and if not, let me know and I'll get you some pictures. It's real easy to set up, even if it doesn't sound like it, and it works great. The only thing I really don't like about it is that it's not exactly a quick change system, but damn, does it hold those batteries in place.

[metalry101]

To clarify, I don't have 6 sets of HB tires, I've got 6 sets of Maxx tires.

-HB Psycho tires on UFO rims
-IMEX JumboMaxx Claws on Saville's or whatever
-Pro-Line Mulchers on Traxxas rims
-Pro-Line Road Rages on chrome Traxxas rims
-TRC Park (street tread) on TRC rims
-Stock Maxx tires on stock rims

The last 3 are for sale. You want them, let me know.

[huasze]

anyone put brushless novak SS5800s single motor on their E-maxx before? what was the result, and how low must the gearing be?

[GA Maxx]

it was slow, dual SS's arent even that fast tbh!

[huasze]

it was slow, dual SS's arent even that fast tbh!


slow, meaning it was slower than stock, or slightly faster only?
how about runtimes. and what gearing was used? i'm actually interested more in getting good runtime. slightly slower than stock is no problem for me. i have only a single ss5800. the other way is i get a schulze or wait for the hvmaxx

[Cildein]

I was thinking that I barely ever use 2nd gear on my emaxx, so is there a option for direct drive or a powerfull/strong single speed transmission?

[metalry101]

I believe you could take all of the second gear components out of the trans if you wanted to, but I don't really see why. A lot of racers will pull all of the first gear stuff out to save weight, but anything that you're using first gear that much for shouldn't really be affected by the weight savings. I don't know of any aftermarket trans cases or single speed conversions for an E-Maxx, so if you really only want first gear then try pulling the second gear stuff out of trans.

[Cildein]

Basically I hear that the "idle gear" can break under high torque. I have seen a bunch of aftermarket steel gears. But some trucks like the new Kyosho twin force have no tranny so that is what got me thinking.

On a different note I got the new RadRC four wheel steering kit. Works well but my beadlock stock tires rub up against the "kit" turnbuckles and if you don't lock them in the tire will make your alignment out of wack. So now I am looking for some turnbuckles that are about 1cm larger then the 2.5 rear stock because the stock are smaller and don't get touched by the tires.

Any ideas? Thanks. :)

[metalry101]

Don't worry about your trans, you won't break it. I've had my E for 2 years and last time I ripped apart the tranny, it still looked new. A little contamination from dirt and what not, but no excessive wear, or any wear for that matter. As for ideas, go the ur LHS and see what they've got in turnbuckles. Maybe turnbuckles from a Savage or an 1/8 scale or something could work, I don't know specifically what would work, but those are just some ideas.

[Goodie1994]

Hey Guys, Im having a problem with my Toe setting on the rear of My E-Maxx. My Rear Turn Buckles are bottomed out and I can't get any further Adjustment out of them and I can't seem to figure out why my tires have such a bad toe setting. When I took it apart to install the RPM stuff it was fine, but now as you can see in this pic it's nothing but fine Any Ideas guys??? Take a look at the pic and look at the Rear Right Tire, you can see the bad Toe In on it. :(


PIC: (copy and paste into your browser)
http://www.freewebs.com/rcnitro/maxx.jpg

[TeamMishap]

Did you somehow put the wrong sized turnbuckles on, either too long or too short?

[Goodie1994]

I used the Stock ones that came with My Maxx

[metalry101]

Ahhhh, it comes to me now. You probably screwed your pillow balls all the way into the arms. Back them out till your toe setting is where you want it, the make sure your camber settings are still good. I would assume that's your problem, because the RPM arms are the same length as the Pro-Line and Widemaxx arms. Oh, and by the way, nice truck! I'll try to get pics of mine up one of these days, but it's out of commission at the moment. I fried the EVX.

[Goodie1994]

Ahhhh, it comes to me now. You probably screwed your pillow balls all the way into the arms. Back them out till your toe setting is where you want it, the make sure your camber settings are still good. I would assume that's your problem, because the RPM arms are the same length as the Pro-Line and Widemaxx arms. Oh, and by the way, nice truck! I'll try to get pics of mine up one of these days, but it's out of commission at the moment. I fried the EVX.
Thx man, im trying to build a Show\Basher truck. :)
Well are you sure about the pivot balls? I E-Mailed Traxxas because I also had really bad + Camber and they said to bottom out the pivot balls and then adjust eith the top or bottom one untill the tires sat flat on the ground. I did this and my + Camber problem is gone, but I still have the Bad Toe in Problem :( I don't undersatnd how the pivot balls could cause Toe problems cuz of how the knuckle part just pivots on them, maybe im just confused ,lol. I don't know what I should do :(

Yeah post pics of your truck, i love to see any E-Maxx :) too bad about your ESC though :(

[metalry101]

K, the knuckles pivot on two points (well 3, but i'm counting the 2 pivot balls as one). I'll try to make a little diagram w/ letters here....

--0 <-Those are the pivot balls (this is a top view)

---0 <-That's where your turnbuckle mounts to the knuckle

The diagram above is how your truck is set up. Here's how it should be, assuming that you can't adjust the turnbuckles any more.

---O <-Still the pivot balls

---0 <-Still the turnbuckle mount

Notice how they line up straight!

As for the camber, here's how that works...

--0 <-That's the top pivot ball

--0 <-That's the bottom pivot ball

This is a view from the back (or front, it'd be the same)
They might not be the same distance out from the arm like that, since they're not level w/ the ground like my little slashes, but the point is that they're in the same plane, which is perpindicular to the ground. Hope all this helps. LMK if not and I'll try again.

[Goodie1994]

I fully understand the CAmber stuff, it's the toe stuff im not getting. Only reason I im getting it to well is because if im adjusting the toe and the knuckle is sitting on a ball that can make it piviot, then how can adjusting the piviot ball in or out make a differance? If one is screwed out more then the other then won't that just throw off Camber??

Sorry im not gettin it, it just dosent wanna sink in for some reason, lol. Thx for taking the time though and explaining this. :)

EDIT:
http://www.computerpannen.com/cwm/cwm/3dlil/idea.gif
I think i understand now, it just clicked, lol. Im gonna screw out the pivot balls and then screw out the turnbuckle. Then I'll set the camber back up nice and then I can adjust the ote cuz I'll have the turn buckle already screwed out some and will have adjustment to use up. IS that what ya ment?

[metalry101]

If you adjust both pillow balls the same amount in the same direction, then no, it doesn't affect camber, but you are correct, that if you only adjust one pillow ball, it does affect camber. So, try unscrewing both pillow balls like 2 turns and see if that helps. It shouldn't affect camber (since both pillow balls will still be in the same position relative to the other. Camber is affected by the bottom pillow ball's position relative the to top pillow ball. Toe is affected by the position of the turnbuckles's mounting point on the knuckle, relative to the imaginary center line of the two pillow balls. Does that help?

[Goodie1994]

ok thx man, im gonna give it shot right now. :D

Thx again for the help and if i stll have troubles I'll post back again :)

[Goodie1994]

Thanks A Million metalry101. My Maxx looks Great now :D all setup and waiting for the snow to melt!!! Thanks For Takeing the time to explain all the Camber and toe adjustments. Knowledge I'll not forget, that's for sure :p

[metalry101]

Glad you got your truck set up the way you wanted, that's always good to hear. Now, if only my Maxx could move.

[34ford]

I know its been asked a trillion times but I did a search for batteries in the Traxxas room and it showed me 65 pages! :eek:

So Im interested in 7 cell 2400 mha's. Where should I look? Brand?
I have seen a lot of GP's mentioned. Is that Great Planes?

I do know that finding 7 cells for the Emaxx is not as easy as 6 cells. :(

Or is best just to build a pack?

TIA,

Dennis

[metalry101]

Umm, Integy still sells the 2400's, but I don't know of many other places that do. You'd probably be better off looking for some 3300's on sale, as any matching company sells those. I like Pro-Match, they usually have good prices, and I've had very good luck w/ their cells. GP is Gold Peak, just another cell manufacturer, like Sanyo or Panasonic. If you're looking for loose cells, this is a good price... Pro-Match Loose Cells, on Sale (http://www.promatchracing.com/main.htm). If you're looking for assembled packs...Assembled but Unmatched 7-Cell 3300's (http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm).

[34ford]

About the same time you replied I found Pro-Match Racings website in my Car Actions buyers guide. So now I know what GP3300's are.
Humm.....now lets see.

[guver]

If you want 2400's go with any with sanyo cells would be best.

[Cildein]

I installed a rear spool in my truck, in addition to 4 wheel steering kit. When I finished and had my truck still on my table with wheels suspended, the tires would shake when turning? I don't understand why they would do that when it is not even touching the ground.

Does not shake when tires are straight? What gives?


--2 minutes later---

Ok I think I know what is going on. Before on the forum I talked about my rear tires touching the turnbuckles. Looks like that is still happening (even with smaller turnbuckles)! Therefore the tire that is touching acts as if it was hitting the ground. Joy looks like I am going to have to get bigger tires and wheels! Hot bodies here I come!

[Lord Radeon]

MY cheap matched 3300gps BLEW AWAY my high dollar ni-cd 2400hvs back 18 months ago. The 3300s are superior in every way, and put out MUCH more voltage with much less resistance.

[Cildein]

Anyone know of a way to use the batteries to supply 6.0volts to the steering? I figure it would have to be before the EVX connections? Or if anyone knows of a controller that supplies 6volt rather than 4.8v? :confused:

[guver]

Duratrax 8 t pro and streak both have 6 volts for bec. but they're single systems.

[Breakin2]

I know this must be a common question, but how fast do these things go? Can it handle the same sort of rough terrain that they T-Maxx can?

[guver]

The box says 30+ mph
Darn, My 2nd evx went bad and my 2nd TX went bad.

[guver]

My e now has 2 dtx sprints on it. Works pretty good, not as good as stock though.

[Lord Radeon]

Anyone know of a way to use the batteries to supply 6.0volts to the steering? I figure it would have to be before the EVX connections? Or if anyone knows of a controller that supplies 6volt rather than 4.8v? :confused:

Attach a 6 volt receiver pack to the EVX and it will give the servos 6 volts

[Maxxcrazy]

Heres some updated pics of my maxx
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_69_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_70_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_71_full.jpg
1 Speed tranny (lexan cover):
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_72_full.jpg
1 Speed Tranny (less weight):
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_73_full.jpg
New shock tower (1/4in 7075) More adjustible:
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_74_full.jpg
New front tower (1/4in lexan):
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_75_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/416000-416999/416797_76_full.jpg

Mostly Custom made by me

[metalry101]

I still dont understand the rear arms, but other than that, that's a helluva nice lookin truck. I bit it's a damn fast racer. Nicely done, especially those towers, very adjustable indeed. The one other suggestion I have is to trace the outline of the trans case onto the lexan plate and then cut that out. Right now it looks a little ghetto, but if it all lined up and everything, it'd look sweet, much more professional. Just a thought though, either way, it's a sweet mod. Nice truck overall. I'm assuming it's BL since there's only one motor mount. What kind of system do you run?

[Maxxcrazy]

Thanks,

I'm gonna run a B50 8s. The tranny cover is a little off, but thats what you get when you make it at 1am. But its fine, it holds a ton of grease and oil without any leaking.

[Skribble]

I was wondering out of these chassis options, which one would be good for a offroad track made for 1/10 Trucks/Buggies:

Bomb-Proof RaceBomb.
GorillaMaxx Aluminum.
Xtreme RC BL Chassis.

And batteries, either six 6-cell batteries, or four 7-cell batteries (GP3300)?

[Maxxcrazy]

I'd go with the Gorilla or Xtreme because of the wheelbase

[Lord Radeon]

I was wondering out of these chassis options, which one would be good for a offroad track made for 1/10 Trucks/Buggies:

Bomb-Proof RaceBomb.
GorillaMaxx Aluminum.
Xtreme RC BL Chassis.

And batteries, either six 6-cell batteries, or four 7-cell batteries (GP3300)?

Unless your running serious power, the racebomb is a moot point: it's very long, and without some serious torque steer, will be harder to steer around a tight course then the other two. I was very happy with my Xtreme chassis.

[Maxxcrazy]

I don't really see the point to the chassis design of the Torpedo or race bomb. Its not balanced (the tranny is way up front) and the wheelbase makes it hard to manuever in tight areas.

[Lord Radeon]

I don't really see the point to the chassis design of the Torpedo or race bomb. Its not balanced (the tranny is way up front) and the wheelbase makes it hard to manuever in tight areas.

It's that way for a reason. It's designed for a high-powered brushless setup. (IE: Carrying 18-24 cells). Most of that battery weight would be in the rear, and offsetting the tranny to the front helps with that. The long wheelbase is to keep the front end down and help with jumping and stability.

[slid'in sideway]

Hay Cildein,
If you go to the E-Maxx V-1 (volume 1), pages 49, 50, & 61, you'll see what I did with my trans. you'll have to scroll through , but there are good pic's of it. If you have any questions LMK.
Slid'in Sideway

[slid'in sideway]

Yo Maxxcrazy,
Very nice truck, funny though that trans looks kind of familiar, just kiddin, if you are going BL, do you have metal gears in the trans? And how many cells are you going to hook up to that B50-8.
Slid'in Sideway

[Cildein]

slid'in sideway
Great reference. Now if you only produced that! :D I am going to have to get ahold of a used trans an