E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[Cildein]

Just wondered if anyone has used Maximizer Products stuff and if's any good. I saw they have something called there Ultra Posi Diff. It appears to use some type of spring and slipper pad set up instead of the inturnal spider gears. Has anyone out there tried these things? If so how did it work out?

I looked on the website for that posi but could not see anything?


Does anyone run the Super Sport SS5800 Brushless Motor System? I was thinking of switching over to it and wanted to know if there where any issues or areas I needed to be aware of. All comments welcome!

[BPPSupermaxx]

It will be too slow, too under powered, no torque. ECT....

The SS58000 is for small cars, small stadium trucks, and buggies.

You may be able to run two, but I still dont recommend it for an E-maxx

On another subject. I would liek to know what you guys recommend for tires.

Paddle
On-road
racing
off-road
general on-off road.

Or anything else.

[metalry101]

For anything off-road the Pro-Line Mulcher is the ticket. I promise you will not be disappointed. I run them on mine. Ahhhhhh, sooo much traction. Very sweet tires, damn good lookin too. On road, I've run the TRC Parks and the Pro-Line Road Rages. Honestly, I couldn't really tell the difference traction wise, they both hooked up really well. Racing is gonna depend on the track. That'll probably either be the Mulcher (for a gnarlier track w/ lotza loose stuff), or a Bow-Tie or similiar. I say similiar becase Orion and TRC both make tires very comparable, as do some other companies I believe. If it's a smoother track then the Bow-Tie like treads are gonna be the way to go. For paddles, I only know of two choices, and from what I've heard, the Pro-Lines are better. If you're looking to buy any of these tires, or anything else, check out my thread in the Buy/Sell/Trade Forums here. I'll have a thread up in a little while w/ a ton of stuff for sale, including lotz and lotz of Maxx tires.

[Cildein]

It will be too slow, too under powered, no torque. ECT....

The SS58000 is for small cars, small stadium trucks, and buggies.

You may be able to run two, but I still dont recommend it for an E-maxx

Or anything else.


Help me understand.
I have my truck geared for low speed HIGH torque I am running 12t pinion and 72T spur. I would think the motor would be able to create enough tourque anyway? As for speed I just need it to go in the teens MPH wise. What attracted me to this setup is that it runs off of one battery pack and you would gain ~20% longer run times. I was guessing that it would be equal to 1.5 of the 2 stock motors? :confused:

Another good buy for the buck alternative would be helpful? :D

[metalry101]

One Novak BL system just doesn't make all that much power compared to other BL systems. Not that it's a bad thing, it wasn't designed to make 4 horsepower or anything crazy like that. It was designed to be a low or no maintence propulsion system for the mod racer. Instead of replacing brushes and cutting coms all the time, racers could just race. But...like everyone else has said, it was designed for smaller cars, so I think it would have to work too hard to push the Maxx around. W/ that type of gearing it'd probably be alright if you weren't expecting much. Personally, I'd be ready to drop the gearing even more, because even that gearing might get it really hot. It's possible that it'd run fine w/ the 12/72 gearing, as that is really low, but ya never know. I think you could get the system to work for you if all you're looking for is run time. Key word there is "think." Since it was designed to push 3-6 lb vehicles, an 8-12 lb monster could be a little hard on it. By that I mean it'd have to draw more amps, which would negate the run time time advantage. However, if your truck is light and you're not running at full throttle all the time, and of course if it's geared low enough, then yes, that system should work for you. As for other systems, the Novak system designed for the Maxx would probably be better, cuz you wouldn't have the gearing limitations, and it's not much more expensive. Still BL though, so it's still supposed to be more efficient. Don't know when it'll be on the market though. It's been "pending further testing" or something like that for forever now.

[Cildein]

One Novak BL system just doesn't make all that much power compared to other BL systems. Not that it's a bad thing, it wasn't designed to make 4 horsepower or anything crazy like that. It was designed ..............................
.................The Novak system designed for the Maxx would probably be better, cuz you wouldn't have the gearing limitations, and it's not much more expensive. Still BL though, so it's still supposed to be more efficient. Don't know when it'll be on the market though. It's been "pending further testing" or something like that for forever now.

Thanks for that. I saw the maxx setup and was trying to figure out when it would be available. I guess I get to wait. I figured it might be a case where it would be really under powered but ok.

[riatvriderwd]

Hey i was wondering what kind of batteries are best for the e maxx and what charger will charge them the fastest but also not be over like 70$

i forgot to add if these are some good batteries for the maxx? http://www.promatchracing.com/assembly.htm ....the emaxx pack style A or B

[scorpien boats]

epic 3000nimh unbeatable 18bucks a pop on www.towerhobbies.com

[Skribble]

I wouldn't trust those sport packs .. You should check out PromatchBatteries.com and look at their bulk packs .. 12-cell, loose, unmatched GP3300 for $47 bucks. For 24, it's around $90.

[metalry101]

Ya, I wouldn't trust those sport packs either. In something small and light w/ a stock motor, sure. For a ~10lb. monster, no, way too many amps for cheap cells like those.

[riatvriderwd]

thanks ..i didnt think those would be good considering they were so cheap..but what kind of charger should i get that could charge them quickly and isnt THAT expensive

[metalry101]

I'd suggest the Duratrax Piranha Digital. 50 bux for an ac/dc charger w/ a readout. It'll do 5 amps on dc (but only 3 amps on ac). I've got one myself and have been very happy w/ it. Great charger for the money.

[riatvriderwd]

how long does it take to charge about a 3000mah battery pack on that charger in ac mode.?

[Skribble]

Chassis?

I'm looking for a pan style chassis, and I know there is Xtreme (Normal and BL), Gorilla, and Bomb-Proof. I was talking with one of the guys that work at my LHS, and he said there is another company that produced them, but they're now discontinued, and he said it was carbon fiber. Does anyone know of another company that makes a C/f chassis?

[metalry101]

riatvriderwd~
About an hour. Figure 3000 mah is enough juice for a 3 amp discharge for an hour, so to charge it at 3 amps takes about an hour.

Skribble~
Don't know of any other carbon fiber chassis. The UE Lightning (can't remember if that's the name or not) chassis is really cool too, if you've got the money. I'm thinkin you don't want to drop more on a new chassis than the truck cost in the first place, but I'd assume it's the best chassis on the market.

[Skribble]

UE isn't pan style though, plus it cost an arm and a leg, literally .. :(

I'm going to wait until that guy tells me what chassis he was talking about, and if I don't like it I'll probably go with Xtreme BL chassis.

Anyone know what chassis this is? I'm assuming it's custom since it has the Dominator slipper and laydown steering servo ..
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-916

[BPPSupermaxx]

Go with a Bomb-Proof Chassis. It made so much difference in my E-maxx it was unbelivable. I have two Racebombs for my E-maxxes. Inexpensive too. Now, carbon fiber...he could have been talking about the Prototype race Bomb. It was so expensive to make, they only made two.

http://performancerc.net/NEWEMAXX13.jpg

[microrcdude]

thats an awsome looking chassis.

[Skribble]

As I mentioned before, my track is small, made completely for 1/10 Buggies/Trucks. The longer chassis wouldn't help me at all since I'm going to run stock motors, and it would impair my turning ability slightly.

Too bad BP doesn't produce a full Carbon fiber chassis like emaxxjeremy's .. But never know, one of them said BP is going to be coming out with some awesome soon. By then my E-Maxx will probably be done.

[Lord Radeon]

As I mentioned before, my track is small, made completely for 1/10 Buggies/Trucks. The longer chassis wouldn't help me at all since I'm going to run stock motors, and it would impair my turning ability slightly.

Too bad BP doesn't produce a full Carbon fiber chassis like emaxxjeremy's .. But never know, one of them said BP is going to be coming out with some awesome soon. By then my E-Maxx will probably be done.

XTreme makes a carbon chassis. I loved mine

[BPPSupermaxx]

BPP Will never make another carbon Fiber Chassis. It was just too expensive, and a loss of money. I know Jeremy very well, as with Brian. I know its too bad.

Here is the rest of my truck. http://www.performancerc.net/supermaxx.htm

[Skribble]

XTreme makes a carbon chassis. I loved mine*Kick, Punch, It's all in the mind (Blah blah blah, PaRappa)*

I know. :p That's why I'm saving up for the Xtreme BL chassis. Although do you mount the EVX on the motor mount?

http://www.xtremercracing.com/Images/BLBMMI.jpg

[riatvriderwd]

are these good batteries??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44023&item=3190456559 if not can you give me link to some good batteries for the E-maxx and a quick like 40 min charger?? they dont have to be on ebay and they need to be at least assembled..i dont care if they are unmatched.........are these safe to run in the emaxx http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10201.15

[Skribble]

I wouldn't trust those batteries because I don't think they're a major type like Sanyo or GP .. They'd probably start to leak acid after a couple months.

[metalry101]

Here ya go

Pro-Match, lotza options here (http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm)

Duratrax Piranha Digital (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML)

That's the way to go. 3 amps may take a while, but at least it'll be a good charge. If you want it faster, charge off of a car battery or buy a DC Power Supply.
If you don't care about a readout and wanna spend twice as much...
Reedy Quasar, gotta be good, says Reedy on it (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBAS1&P=ML)

[Skribble]

Being as retarded as I am, I mounted the tranny with the speed control wire under it where the chassis braces are. So I poked 2 holes into the wire. Would it be better to send it in to get it fixed, or open it up and solder new wires on? I have the shifting servo that I don't use, and I could cut the wire from that ..

[guver]

can you just resolder it back together? or if the wire didn't break put some strecth tape or shrink wrap over it?

[Skribble]

The wire was punctured in 2 places (Since I only have 2 screws in my chassis braces). I could resolder it, but then I would have absolutely no slack in the wire, since the distance apart from the 2 holes is about 1-2 inches.

[riatvriderwd]

i really want an E-maxx and right now i have 2 crappy $100 radio shack cars and they both are broken and my dad doesnt see that its a good idea to spend over 300 on sumthin that the same thing will happen to. The first radio shack one it just doesnt respond to the controller and the 2nd one it wont turn..well it does it just is stuck turning left and yea it moves by hand but doesnt stay there. And they say it will cost 90 to fix em(not worth it) and he thinks that the same thing will happen with the emaxx..so he doesnt see the point in gettin the $00 rc car when it wont be worth it if it breaks

[Skribble]

Tell him if it breaks, you can get replacement parts MUCH cheaper than Radio Shack. And it won't break as much as RS cars. It's a lot more durable, fast, better electronics, etc.

[riatvriderwd]

but i kno that the parts are inexpensive...most of them..but idk if i will be able to replace them myself so it will cost more to have my LHS put them in..so idk wut to do

[metalry101]

You could put them in. Depending on what you break, it's anywhere from really easy to pretty easy. Not to say that it's quick. Fixing a nuked diff is easy, but it's very time consuming. However, if you're concerned about it, you might want to try a smaller, less expensive, less complex vehicle. For example, the Duratrax Evader is a great truck, it's only 170 bux. It's smaller, lighter, and about as fast. It's not 4wd, and it's not a monster truck, but it's still fun to drive off-road, and it will jump well. I love the E-Maxx, but it is bigger and much more complex than stadium trucks. If you're really sold on the E-Maxx, then just be prepared to take a little time to fix it sometimes. It is a really tough truck though, so you'll have a hard time breaking it, and parts are much cheaper and easier to come by. Any hobby shop worth it's salt stocks Maxx parts too, so that's a plus.

[riatvriderwd]

i want to learn how to fix them because im intereested in it and i always have enjoyed takin things apart but ive just never really did it but if it is easy to fix, i dont care if its time consuming and plus i would like to learn so i think im gonna go get myself an emaxx.

[Lord Radeon]

Two thumbs up for the quasar.

Here ya go

Pro-Match, lotza options here (http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm)

Duratrax Piranha Digital (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML)

That's the way to go. 3 amps may take a while, but at least it'll be a good charge. If you want it faster, charge off of a car battery or buy a DC Power Supply.
If you don't care about a readout and wanna spend twice as much...
Reedy Quasar, gotta be good, says Reedy on it (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBAS1&P=ML)

[metalry101]

riatvriderwd~
Good to hear that you're interested in learning. Too many people get into this hobby only for the driving part. Glad to see that someone else is interested in learning how and why the truck is designed the way it is. If you do end up getting the truck and you have questions, this is the best place to get answers to them.

[Cildein]

i want to learn how to fix them because im intereested in it and i always have enjoyed takin things apart but ive just never really did it but if it is easy to fix, i dont care if its time consuming and plus i would like to learn so i think im gonna go get myself an emaxx.

You could always look for a used on ebay or the forums here!

[MTkid7]

Hey guys.. i am going to buy a e-maxx like in 5 days.. but heres my question.. i ehrd they only go like 17 stock.. is that true. And i am also going to put a brushless motor in it.. but wat one to buy.. the hacker is a lil to expensive for my taste.. any other choices besides a novak or hacker?? thanks
MTkid7

[guver]

The box says 30 mph on 14 cells. That is of course when all conditions are ideal.

[MTkid7]

wow ok kool... ill hafta buy me sum 7 cells then.... or make um

[MTkid7]

ok anybody know some good 7 cells.. now im not rich.. please around 50$ for 2... ballistics are way to much for me

[Skribble]

XTreme makes a carbon chassis. I loved mineHey, did you have any problems with it? I think I might buy the stock Xtreme chassis instead since my track is so small. And I don't need a shifting servo mount.

And judging by this picture, does this look like the stock length?

[Lord Radeon]

Hey, did you have any problems with it? I think I might buy the stock Xtreme chassis instead since my track is so small. And I don't need a shifting servo mount.

And judging by this picture, does this look like the stock length?

No problems. It was extremely stiff and well-crafted. Stock length. Made the truck handle 10 times better, would NOT roll over in a hard corner.

[metalry101]

Mtkid7~
Just build your own 7 cell packs. I'd suggest something like Trinity Zip Packs. I used those a while back, not bad, especially for the price.

[Skribble]

No problems. It was extremely stiff and well-crafted. Stock length. Made the truck handle 10 times better, would NOT roll over in a hard corner.Okay, I just heard people with BL snapping the chassis sometimes. I'm assuming that won't be a problem with the stock motors.

As for stock, I meant does that picture look like the chassis is stock length ..

[metalry101]

It looks stock length to me. If not, it's damn close.

[Lord Radeon]

Okay, I just heard people with BL snapping the chassis sometimes. I'm assuming that won't be a problem with the stock motors.

As for stock, I meant does that picture look like the chassis is stock length ..

Yes, looks like an Xtreme to me. (note the chassis sits 3/4 inch lower then edges of body)

[Skribble]

Yeah, I found the pictures over at E-Maxx.net and URC, but I guess the guy doesn't go to the forums any more. Here's a pictue of his chassis w/ Dominator Slipper and Laydown servo setup. Looks trick:

[Maxxcrazy]

Double post...

[Maxxcrazy]

I've heard of people breaking their batteries because the battery slots were off or something. Of course they weren't using the cups...

BTW, has anyone here used lithium cells? I'm debating getting a 11.1V 8000mah pack when I get brushless. Its not much more expensive than reg cells and the chargers are cheap. I can get 1 8000mah pack for $225 and a charger for $125. For reg cells it would cost about $200 in batts and $160 for a good charger. I'd need 4 batts for a battery chagne, my track runs 20min mains. Not bad pricing...

[guver]

I have ben following li-pos a bit and They are very close to being able to deliver the current for a lite e-maxx. Craps used them on a 1/8 buggy, noit sure how he made out yet. I'm still waiting for the price to come down and the popularity to go up.

haha still waiting for the same thing on brushless motors too...

[riatvriderwd]

hey i was wondering if there was a website or anything that has a detailed drawing or picture of labeled parts of the emaxx..or when you buy the emaxx does the manual have that?

[Maxxcrazy]

The manual has some detailed drawings. Traxxas's site has some exploided views too.

[riatvriderwd]

if i were to go out and buy an emaxx now it would be a widemaxx right?

[Maxxcrazy]

Yes, unless the box doesn't say it has the Widemaxx suspension. I'm not 100% sure on that one, when I bought mine it was almost 3 years ago.

[metalry101]

Any Maxx you buy today should definately be Widemaxx. The only way not to get a Widemaxx truck is to go to a hobby shop w/ absolutely no business and buy one that's been sitting on the shelves for 2 years. Or buy one used, but you're talking new, so ya, it'll be widemaxx.

On a different note...anyone want my Maxx?

[MTkid7]

OOHH OOHHH ME ME ME.. but im selling a nitro MT .16 wanna trade..lol... and any way im still waiting for money from a camera to come in..150.. and when my LHs sells my MT about 275ish

[riatvriderwd]

i know ive already asked this like 10 times but what are some cheap like..50$ batteries for the emaxx ..6 cell and they can be unmatched ..doesnt matter

are these good ? http://www.unipros.com/cbpsite/packs.asp?cat=CAR&session_id=132917

[MTkid7]

look on ebay for some gp 3000. or type in emaxx battery... some wicked nice matched 6 cells come up for like 40$ for 2

[metalry101]

Something like these would probably be great for you. I ran them in my Maxx, lotza punch, suprisingly good performance. For 52 bux plus shipping you could get 4 packs. Trinity Zip Paks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJZ88&P=7)

[MTkid7]

So metalry wat kind of shape is ur e-maxx in. and also what kind of hop ups.. how much would u be seeling it for??

[metalry101]

LOL, mods umm...(goes to find truck so as to not miss as much)

...Pro-Line Bumpers
...Fastlane Alum Bulkheads (silver)
...Pro-Line Suspension Kit
...Integy Piggyback Resivour (sp?) Shocks (blue)
...Racers Edge Stainless Steel Hardware
...Hitec 5645 Digital steering servo
...Airtronics 94012 shifting servo
...Airtronics MX-3 Radio
...Mtronics Super E-Truck ESC (waterproof)
...F/R/C CVD's
...Ti Hingepins
...Acer Racing Teflasonic ball bearings
...Pro-Line Steering Kit
...Bombproof RC Torpedo chassis (cracked)
...Bombproof Alum chassis braces (silver)
...RPM skids f/r (black)
...Trinity heat sink motor plate
...Associated motor heat sinks
...Trinity Blue springs
...Trinity Black Springs
...Integy Blue springs
...22, 20, 18, 15, 13, & 9 tooth pinion sets
...Trinity lowering springs on stock shocks
...TRC Parks on TRC rims
...Pro-Line Big Joes on Mambo rims
...Hot Bodies Psycho tires on UFO rims
...Pro-Line Mulchers on Traxxas rims
...Imex Clawdawgs on Sayville rims
...Stock tires on stock rims
...Two fried EVX's
...3 pairs of matched Sanyo 3000HV's
...3 pairs of matched Sanyo 2400's
...3 pairs of 7-cell Triniy Zip Paks
...3 pairs of 7 cell Duratrax Sharks
...Pro-Line Cadilac Escalade body (black)
...Pro-Line H2 body (Pearl charcoal w/ pearl white flames, ultra sexy)
...Pro-Line Extended Super Duty body (gunmetal grey)
...Pro-Line Extended Cadillac Escalade EXT (pearl white to indy silver to candy blue)
...Stock body (red)

That should be about it...LMK if you think it's still in your price range...I'm thinkin that I'll probably keep the truck, but I do need to sell some stuff, so LMK if there are any things you're interested in (mainly tires and bodies, the mods stay).

[MTkid7]

OOKKK nvmd then..lol... just by the bomb proof chassis alone i think it out of my price range..lol.. i would have a total of 450-500ish when i get my money from my car and camera... man keep it... to nice to give away i think... how fast does it go??

[metalry101]

It still runs the stock Titans, so not all that fast. Maybe 30-35 w/ the street tires, 22/66 gearing, and damn good packs in it. I'm gonna go BL one day. I'll probably just get the Novak system, if they ever release the damn thing. But ya, I do have other cars for sale. HPI RS4 MT and a Tamiya TB Evo II. I'd sell ya both of those for cheap.

[MTkid7]

I was sooo close to buying a RS4 MT.. i have NMT.. but y u selling it.. i heard that the belts suck and rocks get in them.. but is there a reason y u are selling it??

[metalry101]

I'm sellin the MT and the Evo (trust me, the Evo is sexier) because I don't use them a whole lot. The Evo never gets used and the MT, well, the Mammoth and the Maxx get used more, and I want a TNX, so the others gotta go to help pay for them. And ya, rocks can get in the belts, but if you buy the inner body for the truck, you'll never have to worry about it again. Doesn't happen all that often even w/o the inner body, unless you're driving in gravel or something all the time.

[Skribble]

metal .. You ever have any problems with your Mtronik?

[metalry101]

Nope, less power in reverse than forward, but all Mtronics I've had are that way, just the way they're made. I've had 3 of 'em now, no problems at all, lotza mud and snow and everything, never a hiccup.

[riatvriderwd]

hopefully ill be getting the emaxx this weekend..but im not sure. like i said before i got this dumb radio shack $100 rc car which was a waste of money. I was takin it apart to see if i could fix the problem(its got digital proportional steering and they dont turn unless by hand and they dont stay if u turn them they go right back) and that damn thing has so many screws and u couldnt get out some unless u took apart half the truck but you couldnt cause the wires are so tight. Then i ended up somehow pulling the driveshaft out but eventually got it back in but still idk what the problem with the steering is. And i kno u guys probably dont know whats wrong cuz u dont bother with ****** RS crap.I kno i wont ever again. I was hoping i could fix it so i could give it to my cousin but o well..but i cant wait to get the emaxx saturday. Do i have to break it in or anything? or i can just put the batteries in and go?? sorry for the long post but I HATE RS!

[metalry101]

There's nothing wrong w/ Radio Shack cars, they're just different. Hating Radio Shack r/c cars is like hating Camaros, Corvettes, Supras, etc. They're all entry level race cars (depending on what level of racing of course, in some levels those would be the flyest cars on the tracK). Radio Shack cars are good for people who just want an r/c car, don't care how it works, why it works, just want something to drive. They're just aimed at a different market, that's all. They're definately not high performance machines, but they do what they're designed to do very well. Nothing wrong w/ that.

[riatvriderwd]

actually they dont work that well..unless they are designed to break..because i bought one used it for about 2 months if that and it just stopped responding to the remote..it turns on fine but it just doesnt move and i never played rough with them at all..replaced all batts and ..nothing...then the second one broke within a month after i bought it..and its not like $100 is somethinh you want to spend every other month and they say it will cost $90 to just ship it out without knowing what the problem is. so i dont think they make a good quality rc car at all

[riatvriderwd]

I was wondering if the PRM Voltage enhanced 6 cell GP3300 Unmatched E-Maxx (http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm) packs are better then ballistic batteries 6 cell GP3300 Intense Voltz 1.15 Matched Stick Packs (http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/Page.cfm?Category2=GP3300&InfoID=200&Search=) besides that one is matched and unmatched..and if its worth it for them being matched then i would go with the ballistic because its only 5 bucks more..but are those good batteries?

[riatvriderwd]

well i gess not many people are in the emaxx forum lately

[metalry101]

LOL, ya, I was out of town this weekend...

If any of you ever get a chance to visit southern Utah in your life, do it. It's one of the most beautiful places on the planet. I went backpacking in Canyonlands National Park. W/ all of our side trips and everything, we probably hiked about 12 miles. Camped under the stars (ya, there are still lotza stars up there, even if you can't see because of the city lights :D), hiked through a 1/4 mile long slot canyon (exactly what the name implies, 'bout 3 feet wide, started about 20 feet deep, and at the end it was over 100), sunbathed on a big rock formation that we had to boulder up. The desert was rich with wildlife and plantlife as well. Tonza lizards, chipmunks, ravens, etc. We even saw a Cottontail. Lotza beautiful flowers of all different colors too. There really are no words that can describe how amazing it is. I love southern Utah more and more every time I go down there. You always see something new. Anyways...

Either way you're gonna be getting good batts. I have no experience w/ Ballistic, but I've heard they're good. Personally, I love matched, but I'd probably suggest saving the 13 bux and going w/ the Pro-Match. That's a no-lose situation. Also, if you're lookin for matched stick packs, PMR has those too, 40 a piece, so still 5 bux cheaper than Ballistic.

[guver]

I would also recommend PMR, SMC, and Fukuyama

[riatvriderwd]

hey i was wondering how the e maxx compares to the hpi savage? which one is better? are they comparable?

[metalry101]

The Savage is faster, and arguably a bit tougher, although it needs to be since it hits things harder due to the extra speed. The Savage is a great truck, but personally, I'll never own one. Too many people have them, IMO. Can't complain about the way they're designed though. The E-Maxx is very difficult to compare to a Savage though, since one is nitro and one is electric. They both have their good and bad things, but they're really different trucks for different things. The Savage will run all day if you've got enough fuel and can tune it right. On the other hand, if you're struggling w/ the tuning, it won't go anywhere. The E-Maxx is always read to go, as long as you've got packs charged.

[riatvriderwd]

how much faster? and does it have more torque ..the same..or less? and i was just wondering because my friend got one and i dont want his truck to be better then mine in everything..but i dont care that much im still getting an e maxx :)

[GA Maxx]

theyu arent really comparable, one is electric one is nitro. I'd say the savage isa better all rounder, however I hated nitro with a passion so i sold my Picco .26 Powered Savage, and bought an emaxx and I haev never looked back

Nitro is just a pain!!!

[MTkid7]

Im with ya there.. selling my new NMT .16 and gettin an e-maxx

[GA Maxx]

stock for stock savage.25 and SS are faster, emaxxx has more torque

my emaxx is faster than a savage .27 and has more torque but has cost me $3,000usd]

both my savage and emaxx are on my website

http://www.savage-abuse.com/emaxx.htm

and

http://www.savage-abuse.com

[riatvriderwd]

im about to buy an e-maxx..but after talkin to a couple people they say that electric is not as much fun as nitro..which i can almost agree with considering that u get run times only limited to the amount of fuel u have..also they are faster. but what i dont like about them is all the maintenence and tuning and all that stuff and that it doesnt have as much torque. so what im stuck at is T-maxx: higher top speed/run times..but more maintenence..E-maxx: not as high run speed/run time but more torque and alot less maintenence and baout $100 less...so i was hoping you guys could help persuay me into either..but i am leaning towards the e maxx as of right now.

[NitroCrackers]

in general, your summary is correct... but thats not to say that electric isnt fast or nitro doesnt have torque, the fastest rc car is elec! and if you want torque, go buy an ek4 with a .70... that'll show you "torque". although nitro does run longer, but cost alot more to maintane, because you have to replace the piston and sleeve of an engine eventually, and fuel cost ALOT of money for 1 gallon (dont forget glowplugs), but the feel and smell of NITRO is... well (=D on the other hand, electrics you have to buy batts, a charger, and new motors eventually but not as often.

[metalry101]

Either way you'll be happy I think. Personally, I think the E-Maxx would be a better choice. It's about half as fast as a way leaned out 2.5 Maxx, but it's still damn fast for it's size. The advantage of it being so much slower is that you can actually drive it w/o a constant fear of breaking the truck in half if you lose control of it or something. 45 mph is cool, but all that speed is really only useful on the street or if you're trying to jump the truck over your house. It's fun other places too, but it makes the truck very hard to control. As for maintenence, I haven't had to do much more maintenence on my Mammoth than I have had to do on my E-Maxx. Granted I've only had the Mammoth for about 3 weeks, and there's not much E-Maxx left on my E. I think part of that has to do w/ the Mammoth being so simple and coming w/ such a good engine from the factory. Either way you'll be happy, but I think the E-Maxx is a better all around truck.

[riatvriderwd]

well i am gonna get the e-maxx..hopefully this weekend..but what i wanted to know was it is definitally ok to run 7 cell batts right? i know the ESC can handle it i just dont want something to happen and then have the warranty void. Also..i wanted to know of a place where i can get some good at least 3000NiMH batteries for not much more then $60...and what are some good motor heatsinks for the e-maxx that i can put on with out removing the label? cause some u need to remove it or they wont go on. thanks

[metalry101]

The only heatsinks on the market for the Maxx are the Associated ones. I've got some on my Maxx, and since I'm really thinkin about sellin' my Maxx (probably parting it out), maybe I'll sell ya mine. As for batteries...why 3000 mah? Why not two pairs of better 1400 or 1500's? The only 3000's on the market for that price that I know of are the Orion and Peak pairs made specifically for the Maxx, and ya, you don't want those, they're not very good. I'd suggest the Trinity Zip Pak II's. 1400 mah, suprising strong voltage, and cheap. I think they're about 14 bux apiece. Maybe even cheaper if you can find them on sale. And yes, 7 cell packs will work fine, no warranty voidage at all, you can even go to Traxxas's site and check out the article on exactly how to set them up. One more thing about the batts, you could get the Pro-Match 3300 stick packs for 70 bux. 10 bux more than you're looking to spend, but better than any 3000's on the market.

[riatvriderwd]

well see i wanted 3000mah cuz i want a longer run time..and 1400 cant possibly have that long of run time..isnt it like 5 or 6 min max? i just tested out a 3000mah RS brand batt and it lasted about 15 min of fun driving but about another 2 min of loss of power..and i thought RS batteries suck..so idk..but like i said i wanted about 15 min of runtime and then i got a charger that charges in about 25 min so i let it cool for 10 n then go bashing again..but then again those were in a RS truck..so maybe it would be different on an Emaxx

[riatvriderwd]

o and then i was using a 2000 nicd radio shack batt and the thing got so hot it started melting the plastic shrink wrap and the plastic batt holder on the truck ..i could actually bend it it got so hot

[metalry101]

Ya, Radio Shack batteries aren't the greatest. They work fine for their cars, but the higher current that most good motors in real r/c cars draw would probably fry them, especially something like the E-Maxx. It's heavy and uses big motors, and as such, it doesn't really treat batteries very well. No, the 1400's wouldn't give you as impressive of a run time, but 2 pairs of them would, and they wouldn't fry as fast. The reason I say this is that since they'll only be powering the truck for 5-8 minutes or so (depending on how you drive it), they only have to suffer from the intense amp draw that the Maxx will subject them to for that period of time. 3000's on the other hand, have to put up w/ that amp draw for twice as long, and since cheap cells have lotza internal resistance, they'll build up a lot (read: too hot to even pick up) during that time, especially if you drive hard. Good 3300's will still get damn hot, but they won't get as hot because of the lower resistance.

[Strata33]

I just got myself an E-Maxx so I thought I'd join in and say hi to all of you.
Talk to you all later. :)

[jkmcgrath]

stock for stock savage.25 and SS are faster, emaxxx has more torque

my emaxx is faster than a savage .27 and has more torque but has cost me $3,000usd]

both my savage and emaxx are on my website

http://www.savage-abuse.com/emaxx.htm

and

http://www.savage-abuse.com

Gota tell ya man that is sweeeeet! I love the tech side of this sport! I would like to see that with the body on it! :D

[Wizardman_1]

Just readin around and saw your battery run time thing and just thought i would mention that Tower Hobbies has Epic 3000mah NiMah packs for $18.99. I have two packs and one has 30 charges and peaks around 3300mah and 9.250 volts.

[riatvriderwd]

hey how come not many ppl are posting anything?

[guver]

My truck is broke down and I'm making a chassis and also waiting for another like new e-maxx

How close together can I run the motors like can I have the cans almost touching?

[Skribble]

It shouldn't be a problem as long as they aren't touching .. Just make sure you have the right gear mesh.

hey how come not many ppl are posting anything?Because the majority of us are out driving our trucks unlike the T-Maxx guys. ;)

[metalry101]

Well, actually my E-Maxx is for sale and I've been out launching my RS4 MT. Got an 11 turn in it now. Ahh, wicked. I launched 20+ feet into the air tonight! Didn't break anything, ahh, damn that's cool. Been driving and fixing the Mammoth too. If anyone wants a damn nice E-Maxx, lemme know, I'm very willing to work on the price if someone wants the truck whole.

[riatvriderwd]

hey hopefully i will be out bashing my emaxx soon...just gotta get my dad to bring me so i can buy it...which he wont do :(

[riatvriderwd]

well i guess this thread is dying rahter quickly

[MTkid7]

seems to be that way

[guver]

I'll try to liven it up. I'm making a chassis for the e-maxx It is made from 40,000 psi tensile strenght material 1/8 thick. I't going to be double decked and 1.75 inch longer wheelbase. Here are the benefits so far, if it all works out.

Complete motors and trans weigh 750 grams being lowered .400 inch
2 batteries weighing 700 grams being lowered 1.750 inches
2 motors by thenselves wiegh 500 grams, and if I can get the mount worked out they'll be lowered an additional 1.500 inches in addition to the complete assembly being lowered .400

[guver]

Maybe some can help me, I want to mount the batts to the lower deck, but don't want anything sticking thru the bottom of the chassis, haven't yet figured out how to mount them yet, any ideas?

[riatvriderwd]

i got a question...i know ive been sayin that im getting the emaxx this weekend and all that but my dad is like i just think its a waste of $330 and they will just break like the RS trucks...and i agree at some part..it is alot of money so i would like to know that im buying something that is worth it all if not more then the $330..so would u guys say that the emax is well worth the $330?

[guver]

I think basically you will get what you pay for, I'm not sure how much a rs car/truck is though. The e-maxx is definately a serviceable/repairable item.

[riatvriderwd]

RS most expensive truck is $100 and just to ship it out to see whats wrong with it cost like 90..so it was a real waste fo money because i bought 2 and they both broke within 3 months and thats 200 i spent when i couldve put it towards an emaxx...i wish i knew :(

[guver]

I just put a like new e-maxx for sale$269 rtr
with 3300 14 cells and twin charger is $369

[Strata33]

Hey guys,

I'm new to RC and first time out with my new E-Maxx I ran it straight through a large puddle and killed it. I took it all apart and dried everything and all works but I'd like to know the best ways to waterproof my E-Maxx? I'd appreciate any tips.

Thanks!

[Skribble]

Maybe some can help me, I want to mount the batts to the lower deck, but don't want anything sticking thru the bottom of the chassis, haven't yet figured out how to mount them yet, any ideas?How about buying a spare chassis, and mounting them the "JANG" way? Or you can flip your chassis over ..

[riatvriderwd]

Maybe some can help me, I want to mount the batts to the lower deck, but don't want anything sticking thru the bottom of the chassis, haven't yet figured out how to mount them yet, any ideas?
heres a chassis that will lower ur batteries by about 1/2 inch..i have no experience with it so i dont know how good it is http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/products/spares-hop-ups/Traxxas/maxxhopups.htm..but i dont know to muh right now so u might now wanna go by what i say

[riatvriderwd]

Hey guys,

I'm new to RC and first time out with my new E-Maxx I ran it straight through a large puddle and killed it. I took it all apart and dried everything and all works but I'd like to know the best ways to waterproof my E-Maxx? I'd appreciate any tips.
Thanks!
a simple way to waterproof the emaxx is to get one of those saran quick covers...go here they got a couple other inexpensive ways..http://www.mattsrcstuff.com/maxxwaterproof.htm

[Skribble]

heres a chassis that will lower ur batteries by about 1/2 inch..i have no experience with it so i dont know how good it is http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/products/spares-hop-ups/Traxxas/maxxhopups.htm..but i dont know to muh right now so u might now wanna go by what i sayFor that much money, you're better off with a RacerBomb, Gorilla, etc.

[Strata33]

a simple way to waterproof the emaxx is to get one of those saran quick covers...go here they got a couple other inexpensive ways..http://www.mattsrcstuff.com/maxxwaterproof.htm

Thanks for the info....great idea..I live in Toronto and only have about 3-4 months of reasonable weather. Anybody know if using this waterproofing technique in warm weather causes moisture to build up in the wrap? Or any side effects that you know of that are worth knowing before I "wrap" my truck?

Thanks

[metalry101]

The shower cap/ helmet cover/ saran wrap method works well at keeping water out. There is one slight problem however. To keep water out, you must also keep air out. All of the electrical components, well, the batts, the motors, and the ESC, get hotter than hell when running w/ the cover. I promise, I've done it. The best solution is to get the Mtroniks Super E-Truck ESC. It's made specifically for the E-Maxx, and is completely waterproof. I can vouch for it working well because I have one in my truck. I've run 2 other Mtroniks ESCs in other vehicles and have always been very pleased w/ them.

[Strata33]

How long would you say your run times are before being affected buy the heat and causing damage? I can't really spend that much on my truck right now (just had a baby boy) so what type of problems might I be looking at and how much run time would you suggest I don't go over if I was to use the saran method in the summer months?

This heat wouldn't be a problem in the winter running it in the snow though right?

[metalry101]

It's a big problem anytime. You really don't get any airflow inside there at all. I ran mine in the snow (it's Utah, we have the best snow on Earth, and whole lot of it) and it got really hot every time. You shouldn't (key word-shouldn't) have problems w/ the EVX getting hot. It will, but it will shut itself down if it gets too hot so you shouldn't have to worry about frying it. The motors aren't exactly made for running in an environment w/ no airflow, so they'll get hot, really really really really really really hot, and the batteries will get very hot as well. Like I said, you can run this setup, but I would definately recommend giving the truck ample time to return to the ambient temp between batteries. Don't overgear your truck, or the motors will get even hotter, and if you smell burning plastic, stop immediately. There are two possibilities on that. One, you could have melted the shower cap on the motor (this is why you run antenna tubes over the chassis, to keep the cap off of all the hot, hot, hot components), or...Two, you could have melted the white plastic cooling fans located on the comms of the motors. If it's the second one, bust out your needle nose pliers and pull all of the little bits and pieces of the melted fan out of the slots, then turn the motor over a bit w/ your hand to make sure it rotates freely and doesn't have any bits of the melted fan left inside.

Anyways, yes, you can drive the truck like that. It's not exactly great on the electronics, but you bought the truck to use, not so it could sit on the shelf for 4 months out of the year. Just let it cool between runs, and use antenna tubes to get as much air in there, and as much space between the cap and the electronics as possible and you should be fine.

[Strata33]

ok great, thanks metalry101 you've given me lots to think about and I have a much better understanding now of how this will work. I'm going to try it out and take it slow. I'll post back what happens.

[Strata33]

In the constant battle to save your truck from bashing breakdowns is there any body cage that allows regular bodies to cover it? All the cages I've seen out there don't allow a body to cover it so you have to run it with just the cage. I want to protection of a cage but with a body of my choice for the look. Can anyone help me.

[metalry101]

RC Raven probably makes a cage for the E-Maxx. I know RC-Solutions does. The RC-Solutions is probably the stronger of the two. I know bodies will fit over both. You might have to raise the body posts or something, but they will fit. I'm almost positive that you have to cut some of the bed out of a truck body for it to fit over the RC-Solutions cage, but that looks badass in my opinion. If you don't want to have to cut out the middle of the bed of a pickup, then get an SUV body and it will fit right over the cage.

[MTkid7]

simple question.. E-maxx ( 7cell matched) or HPI RS4 MT brushless

[riatvriderwd]

:mad: this sucks...i went to go get the E-maxx yesterday..finally after about 2 weeks and they were closed for the long weekend... i guess im not suppose to get it or something:mad:

[riatvriderwd]

In the constant battle to save your truck from bashing breakdowns is there any body cage that allows regular bodies to cover it? All the cages I've seen out there don't allow a body to cover it so you have to run it with just the cage. I want to protection of a cage but with a body of my choice for the look. Can anyone help me.
well considering how this roll cage looks i would say it wont affect ur body at all..but have a look for yourself..http://www.rcraven.com/FullEcage.htm seems like they have some other good accessories also..but dont take my word for it..i never dealt with them

[Strata33]

I want to upgrade my truck to aluminum parts for strength manly but also for looks. I am wondering how much stronger titanium parts are compared to aluminum parts? Is it worth the extra money or not?

Another question dealing with the first is which company do you all find best for aluminum or titanium parts? Which company do you support when buying these upgrades? I find the choices almost staggering...everyone and there cousin now seems to make aluminum parts.

[metalry101]

For strutural parts I'm not sure how much stronger Ti is. I know it's quite a bit stronger, but I couldn't tell ya how much. For things like skids, Ti is definately worth it because it's much springier. When you smack a rock or something w/ the stock skid and it bends back, it stays theres, or if you hit it hard enough, it breaks. Alum skids just bend, and if you do that enough times w/ enough severity, the alum could weaken considerably at the bending point. Ti on the other hand needs one helluva hit to bend in. Ti will typically absorb the impact and then spring back out to it's original shape. You can hit the Ti hard enough to bend it in, but it takes some work...

As for companies, depends on how much you wanna spend...

The best are probably Hardcore Racing and Unlimited Engineering, but they're also far and away the most expensive. KB Rockhoundz is supposed to make good stuff too, and they're considerably cheaper, but their product line isn't nearly as expansive. Here are some links...
UE (http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/)
Hardcore (http://www.racinghardcore.com/)
Rockhoundz (http://www.kbrockhoundz.com/)

[Strata33]

...metalry101...

Thanks for the links, I haven't even heard of Unlimited Engineering and actually very little of KB Rockhoundz so I'm going to check them out right now. I was really looking between Hardcore Racing, DuraTrax, Megatech, Powerline, Traxxas etc. The main companies that seem to be listed on about 75% of hobby sites. Thanks again.

Anyone else have any opinions?

[metalry101]

All of the companies you mention make decent stuff, but if you've got the money, UE is far and away the best stuff on the market...'

As for other stuff, there's...
GPM (can't find their site)
Integy (http://www.integy.com)
GH Hobby (http://www.ghhobby.com/)
Dynamite (http://www.dynamiterc.com)
RC Raven (http://www.rcraven.com)
RC-Solutions (http://www.rc-solutions.com)

There are more, but those should give you a start...

[metalry101]

GPM Racing (http://www.gpmracing.com)

[riatvriderwd]

got my emaxx last night! :)...bigger then i had thought but thats not a bad thing..forgot to buy some CA glue and what i was wondering was that is it really neccessary to leave the spur gear cover on? i really hate allen wrenches and theres 4 allen wrench screws or w.e they r on there ..will debri or rocks or anything get in there and mess up the gears? ..wow the power i never couldve imagined it was that powerful..going from RS to an emaxx is like night and day..well the packs are done chargin so im gonna go ..the emaxx is awesome!

[riatvriderwd]

in my previous post i meant is it possible to keep off theslipper cluth cover not spur gear cover....and also ..is it possible to overtighten the slipper clutch?

[Scooby Doo]

The T-Maxx does fine without a cover for the clutchbell/spur gear. The E-Maxx can also be run without a cover, but don't run in through a pile of tiny rocks just to see if it is not going to damage it no matter what you do. And yes, it is possible to over-tighten the slipper clutch, you can strip the threads in the nut, or even worse, the shaft itself.
Later,
John

[vic2367]

have fun riat great truck that emaxx ,,,,

[metalry101]

'Tis right, it's a great truck, tonza fun :D :D...Enjoy

[Strata33]

I have had my E-Maxx for about a month now and have run it 6 or 8 times and I am getting alittle tired of having to switch battery packs every 15 mins or so and out of that 15 mins 10 of it is the only useful fun part because that's when it's at it's fastest and most powerful.


Are these run times the standard for a 3000mAh stick? Are there ways to lengthen the run times? I already run the truck in low gear mostly to try to help the batteries very rarely is it in high. I have 6 sticks of 3000mAh batteries and 2 1500mAh batteries and besides a slight increase in torque I don't really notice a difference between 3000mAh and 1500mAh especially in run times...they both loose power around the same amount of time.

Am I doing anything wrong?

[guver]

Hi Strata33, It sounds like maybe your charger could be at fault. The run-time in low gear should be a little better than you describe for 3000's. The reson I say charger is cuz the 3000 theoretically should run twice as long as the 1500's. I'm thinking the 1500's are getting full charged, and not the 3000.

That's just my guess, one way to tell for sure is to check the charging times and the 3000's should also take twice as long to charge....what kinda charger you have?

[Strata33]

I have a DuraTrax IntelliPeak Digital Pulse Charger

I really like the features though. I'm going to have to really time the charge times for both the 3000 and 1500 batts and time the run times of each too.

I hope it's not the charger cuz I can't afford another one.

[guver]

with that charger, you can capacity check your batts, but watch around 1999 mah it starts counting over and then again at 999 sets to zero again if you know what I mean. That's one of my fav chargers.

I just burned thru some 3300's in ten minutes, but that is running high gear nearly full throttle all the time and starts and stops and continual drag racing too.

[jrjr]

My Intellipeak charger plug developed browning where the cord plugs into the transformer. It first would not work with AC power but would with DC. Finally it quit on DC too. Duratrax made it right though and repaired it for me. My thought.... the stock plug causes too much resistance resulting in heat build up at that plug. I plan to replace it with a Deans connector but that will void the warranty.... My warranty is probably used up anyway at this point! I use it for charging 6 cell 3300's at 5-6 amps. Just an FYI

[riatvriderwd]

i was wondering if there was a way to make the bullet plugs stay in the tamiya connector..one of my packs they get pulled out when im tryin to disconnect it from the charger/truck..so i was wondering if there was a way to make it stick in there because now im not sure if its fully connected to the chager/truck and idk if that will affect the charging or run time on the truck..so if you know how to do it please help.

[jrjr]

Depress the little prong on the metal tip and pull it back out of the plug. The wire end should be larger than the hole to stop it from pulling through when you unplug it. If it isn't try a pair of pliers and flatten just the wire end. You will see what I mean when you get there.....

[Strata33]

As most of you have seen I am searching for the right hop-ups for my E-Maxx right now. I am looking to replace the stock parts with Aluminum or Titanium depending on the prices.

Looking at Integy I was wondering how good they are? Do alot of you E-Maxxers have them on you ride? With Integy parts all I've seen is alloy. Is this stronger, strong as or weeker then aluminum. Hope I don't sound to stupid with that question. heh I like the look of Integy and hopefully it's not all looks with them.

[jrjr]

I bought a truck with a lot of aluminum parts already, actually almost all of it! I choose to sell the A Arms,shock towers, body mounts and the fuel tank in favor of RPM products which are guaranteed for life and should be more durable. Aluminum will bend and is costly. Unless you are building a show truck maybe you should think about this as well.

[Skribble]

If you buy good Aluminum .. It won't bend. Integy is all show, and you should buy something more like Unlimited Engineering WideTrac G2 .. It's around $170, and it's made from 7075-T6 Aluminum. http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/monmaxx.html

Anything from UE is top notch, and it'll be less likely to break unless you go full speed into the curb or something.

http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/SuperMaxx/wide-trac.jpg

[MTkid7]

e-maxx or brushless mt??? im looking for speed and durability. BL MT has speed.. e-maxx has durability. But my set up in the e-maxx would be hop ups motors and matched 7 cells. Think thast good and would get me over 30?

[Skribble]

A stock E-Maxx running 2x7 cell battery setup gets 30MPH. Personally, I would get the E-Maxx. After owning a Losi XXX-T and Losi XXX Kinwald, an E-Maxx is much more fun racing and bashing.

[Skribble]

Question: Is it possible to run an 8-cell battery on 1 lead, and run a 6-cell battery on the other, which still results 16.6v(14 cells total)? Because I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the GorillaMaxx chassis, and I might run a single DeWalt 18v motor, since I heard it was decently fast (Not sure how fast) on 2x7 battery setup. I'm mainly looking to distribute the weight around more evenly.

[metalry101]

Hmm, don't know about that one...might wanna call up Traxxas and ask...It'd probably void the warranty, but you could always try it...but ya, I'd call and ask first.

[riatvriderwd]

whats the first thing i should upgrade on my emaxx?

[MTkid7]

MMOOOTTTTOOOORRRR..lol nah.. id get somd really good matched 7 cell 3000 battery packs.. thatll make ur car go vroom vroom.

[MTkid7]

wat charger should i nget for my e-maxx. A package on ebay comes with the dynamite twin.. or should i buy seperatly and get the duratrax twin?

[guver]

Question: Is it possible to run an 8-cell battery on 1 lead, and run a 6-cell battery on the other, which still results 16.6v(14 cells total)? Because I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the GorillaMaxx chassis, and I might run a single DeWalt 18v motor, since I heard it was decently fast (Not sure how fast) on 2x7 battery setup. I'm mainly looking to distribute the weight around more evenly.

Yes it is actually better, if you put the 6 cell on the side that powers the servo and rx. You'll get the same power by doing that or even 5+9 too.

[guver]

wat charger should i nget for my e-maxx. A package on ebay comes with the dynamite twin.. or should i buy seperatly and get the duratrax twin?
I like the dtx twin pulse, but the dynamite I've heard good things about too.

[Streamline]

Here are some pics of a project I've had in the works for a while. It's a brushless Emaxx made up of a bunch of miscellaneous stuff I 've had around from other projects

http://www.imageevent.com/inside_out/Emaxx

- Hacker B50 9L with Schulze 18.97KWF
- CNC bulkheads
- MIPS center shafts and CVDs
- GorillaMaxx carbon chassis with extension, towers, motor mount
- UE Ultralight 7.5 Spyder Diffs
- UE Racer-X SuperShocks (8)
- Ofna slipper kit with 50T spur. Photo is with 18T pinion
- Pro-Line steering kit
- Airtronics 94359Z steering servo, 200oz/in with heatsink
- Airtronics 94357Z ERG-VR shifter servo, 125oz/in (Al tranny a bit sticky)
- Megatech servo skid
- Titanium front skid (I forget which one)
- Ultramaxxed all-aluminum gears, boca green seal bearings.
- RC4WD Alum tranny case
- Misc body posts
- RPM A-Arms, some black, some blue ;-)
- True Track rear suspension with fixed camber/toe in, aluminum
- Lunsford Ti turnbuckles and hinge pins
- Various matched 7-cell battery sets (Pro-Match, Trinity)
- Misc wheels - Big Joe's shown in photo with Pro-line series 40 wheels
- Airtronics 3-channel FM synth receiver (on order, stock version shown)
- Airtronics MX-3S synthesized FM transmitter

It's ugly, but the beast runs like a scalded cat. Probably the thing that's helped the most is the wiring - I converted all my charging equipment to 4mm gold bullet connectors, I use only the best Deans wire, and I've kept all wiring minimum length. Have to be careful with shrink tubing and polarities, but when you're pulling that many amps, I've found it best to err on the side of caution esp with Shulze controllers. I also went with a separate hump pack for the servos and receiver to maximize my run times and prevent control glitches. May try and slide in some 2S4P LiPos when the 8000mAH TP's are available.

I've got all the parts for my next beast except for the controller - a full blown Supermaxx with VBS, Torpedo chassis and a 9XL motor with 11V Lipos...just need to find the $600 for that 40.160 controller and the time to build it.

My TMaxx buddies tell me I've made my point ;-)

[Streamline]

Li-Pos can't handle the current spikes the EMaxx puts out.

True. The older LiPos didn't have the current ratings needed to feed an Emaxx.

However, the new 10-12C Lipos from Thunder Power (and others) are a LOT better. I've been running a friend's 7600mAH 3S4P's (22V total) in a brushless and the LiPos have held up fine. 2-3x run time over the equivalent GP3300's, and lighter. Good for 70-80A draws if your wiring/controller hold up.

The main things to watch out for using LiPos and BL
- derate the BL controller voltage/current appropriately;
- go with a high enough Kv motor to keep currents down for the desired speeds
- minimize high-current wiring length
- go conservative on the gearing initially until you characterize your setup
- BE CAREFUL WHEN CHARGING - err on the side of caution.

[Skribble]

Yes it is actually better, if you put the 6 cell on the side that powers the servo and rx. You'll get the same power by doing that or even 5+9 too.Thanks ..

My E-Maxx project might come to a stop, because I'm thinking of buying a Revo instead of a new chassis (Gorilla) and batteries. I'll probably just run it with the upgrades I have now.

Might switch over to the dark side, heh.

[riatvriderwd]

i know i may be asking the wrong people..but whats the best way to cut plexi glass...its definitally to hard to use a hand saw or scroll saw..n then i tried heating it up so it would be softer n then cutting it with these special scissors but that didnt work to well either..so i was wondering if anyone knew a way.

[Freem]

I recently ordered an Emaxx (It has not arrived yet) but I am starting to have second thoughts. It seems to me that the Emaxx may be a never-ending money pit. I am worried that if I keep the truck, I will be spending most of my time fixing and repairing it?

I just want to get your thoughts on how durable is the Emaxx and how has it held up over the long term (one to two years)?

Thanks

Freem

[MTkid7]

Umm yea same uqestion here.. when i got my mini-t hats how it was.. im 500$ later. But heres my question. Id be buying this package http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44023&item=5902013379&rd=1 Think its good. granted sence it comes with crapy 1500 packs mid buy a nice set of matched 7 cells.
Or should i just buy stuff seperatly. Thanks
MTkid7

[MTkid7]

This will kinda replace my other reply
Ok now heres my other option. Buy everything seperatly off ebay.. which comes to 450. Or buy things off tower which would include everything off tower except batts cuz id buy matched 7 cells off ebay. that coems to like 500 cuz of full price. Or like i said before.. buy the package of ebay and buy a really good set of 7 cell matched 3400 packs. and later on get another set. I appreciate the advice.

[guver]

i know i may be asking the wrong people..but whats the best way to cut plexi glass...its definitally to hard to use a hand saw or scroll saw..n then i tried heating it up so it would be softer n then cutting it with these special scissors but that didnt work to well either..so i was wondering if anyone knew a way.

I'm not sure if it's the same. I've been cutting my chassis out of polycarbonate (lexan) and it suts well with a scroll saw and jig/sabre saw, also it drills very easy. I'm finding too that it's very flexible.

[guver]

This will kinda replace my other reply
Ok now heres my other option. Buy everything seperatly off ebay.. which comes to 450. Or buy things off tower which would include everything off tower except batts cuz id buy matched 7 cells off ebay. that coems to like 500 cuz of full price. Or like i said before.. buy the package of ebay and buy a really good set of 7 cell matched 3400 packs. and later on get another set. I appreciate the advice.

I'm selling a like new e-maxx (10 runs) with twin charger and 7 cell 3300's for $369.00 or $269.00 without the batts and charger. Sounds a little pricey, but definately get 3000 or more for the batts.

[guver]

I recently ordered an Emaxx (It has not arrived yet) but I am starting to have second thoughts. It seems to me that the Emaxx may be a never-ending money pit. I am worried that if I keep the truck, I will be spending most of my time fixing and repairing it?

I just want to get your thoughts on how durable is the Emaxx and how has it held up over the long term (one to two years)?

Thanks

Freem

I think I'm kinda the exception rather than the norm, but I keep my stuff mostly stock, and this way it won't be a money pit. I think most people will spend more on hop-ups than the original, like your mini-t. I just can't seee spending 400-500 on a 300 truck. I would just get another truck. I also rather enjoy coming up with very inexpensive hop-ups too.

[MTkid7]

guver uve got a PM

[guver]

got it you too....

[riatvriderwd]

Umm yea same uqestion here.. when i got my mini-t hats how it was.. im 500$ later. But heres my question. Id be buying this package http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44023&item=5902013379&rd=1 Think its good. granted sence it comes with crapy 1500 packs mid buy a nice set of matched 7 cells.
Or should i just buy stuff seperatly. Thanks
MTkid7
well i bought all of that..same exact batteries charger and truck for around 450..so i would say its a good deal..u save 50 bux....i do need better batts tho..although i did get a free set of E Maxx J-Hawg Tires so actaully i probably paid for those..so i got all that for 400

[riatvriderwd]

where can i buy some quality pre-made 7 cell 3000 or 3300 batts in an emaxx pack(meaning 2) for like..80? is that possible ?

[Freem]

Quver,

Thanks for your reply. Several other people on different msg boards have express similar thoughts to yours. My Emaxx is scheduled to arrive today! I will think about it a little more before I open the box, but I will probably keep it!

I also ordered two sets of fusion sport batter packs (they were on sale for $34.99 this month). I have not seen a lot people talk about them on the boards, so I will post more information on how they run a little later.

Freem

[riatvriderwd]

i was wondering if everyone had the same problem as me..the battery packs fit so tightly that the wires rub against the chassis everytime i put in the batteries so its actaully cutting the rubber on the wire and expose the bare wire..idk if its the packs im using and that they are just a lil larger or if its a common problem..so is there a way i can fix it?

[guver]

Mine do the same, I'm going to make flat packs out of them and hang them underneath.

[MTkid7]

wow.. just going to ask teh same question.. heres my big question.. i just spent 100$ on matched 6 cell 3300 GP packs.. i ran for 10 min and they are dead.. please dont tell em thast my life span or i am sellign this truck. And i think i did maybe 4 speed runs to see full potential which sucks on road with those tires..lol

[riatvriderwd]

well i have some 1500's and they last from 8-12 min depending on how i use the truck and usually im in first gear and they go anywhere from 10 to actually 14..when i do alot of speed runs i get about 8..so theres gotta be something wrong cuz u should get about..well at least 15 min..if not 20 or more

[riatvriderwd]

does anyone here use the associated heat sink for the stock titans?( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG84&P=7 )
do u have to remove the decorative label on the motor or do they just clip right over it? and they will cool the motors enough while using some 7 cell 3300's right?

[Streamline]

I just want to get your thoughts on how durable is the Emaxx and how has it held up over the long term (one to two years)?

Well, that depends on a lot of things. If you run it, you'll crash it. If you crash it, you'll break stuff. If you break stuff, you'll want to replace it with upgraded parts. So the only way to NOT spend more money on any RC car is to baby it, which isn't that much fun. I started out with a TMaxx, broke every single part on it, and got hooked on EMaxxes because I feel they're much simpler than their Nitro counterparts - no brakes, no clutch, simpler drivetrain, no carburetion, etc. You also have just as many batteries on a TMaxx as an Emaxx for the starter and servos.

If you get carried away (i.e., obsessed ;-) with trying to run with TMaxxes, they're WAY more expensive, but it can be done with brushless, and possibly LiPOs.

The other reason you may want to start out with a TMaxx is to learn Nitro basics - how carburetion works, exhaust systems, etc. It's a great education since not too many of us actually work on our real cars anymore.

Another alternative would be to start out with a smaller scale vehicle that won't break as easily - monster trucks really beg to be driven hard and therefore broken. You can have fun with a 1/12'th scale or even 1/18'th scale car just to learn the basics.

Hope that helps.

[Freem]

Streamline,

Thanks for your input. My truck and the fusion batteries arrived today. My second choice was the Evader ST, its' cheep and allows for growth in the hobby, but I really wanted a 4WD vehicle. I just concerned about the over all quality of the Emaxx. Your bottom line makes sense, no matter what you own, you will have to replace/upgrade at some point.

[guver]

wow.. just going to ask teh same question.. heres my big question.. i just spent 100$ on matched 6 cell 3300 GP packs.. i ran for 10 min and they are dead.. please dont tell em thast my life span or i am sellign this truck. And i think i did maybe 4 speed runs to see full potential which sucks on road with those tires..lol

I just got a new e-maxx with 3300's and they're way better batts than I've ever had, I ran them flat dead in about 10 minutes. They charge average to 3400 mah

[riatvriderwd]

i guess no1 knows the answer to my questions..but neway i dont get it..i have some 1500's and like i said b4 when i do continous speed runs in 2nd gear i get about 8 min out of them...when im just bashing around and in first gear i get anywhere from 12-15...and what i hear is that 3000 should be double and 3300 should have even more meaning at LEAST 20 min..is that true at all? from what guver and mtkid7 said it isnt..

[MTkid7]

I run 25 min off constand speed runs on my matched 6.. 6 cell 3300 Gp's.. Ill let u know how much longer it runs when i get my 7 cells. But spending the money is deff worth it. My only complaint is the speed..lol.. the stocker tires dont grip well on pavement.. kinda just huvers across the ground. But it was a great investment and i can say it now... I HATE NITRO.. :-)

[riatvriderwd]

:rolleyes: ..i havnt broken one thing yet...just bent my rear body posts but the body actually fits better ...i even ran into a rock at full speed and it just hit it n bounced back..then went off a jump and smashed into a trailer..the only thing that happens is the body clips get twisted..o well gotta get some 7 cell batts but im not sure where i can get any for a decent price..

[Strata33]

Sad to see there hasn't been a new post for this forum in a few days. Is that a show of how the E-Maxx is fairing in popularity? Or just everything has already been covered? Either way, too bad for the newbies I guess.

Well gotta go bash my E-Maxx around for awhile :) ..cya's later.

[Skribble]

Looks like I might stop/sell my E-Maxx project to try out the HB Lightning Stadium .. Even though I haven't ran it yet, lol.

[Strata33]

Looks like I might stop/sell my E-Maxx project to try out the HB Lightning Stadium .. Even though I haven't ran it yet, lol.


E-Maxx project? post a pic, let's see what your doing.

[riatvriderwd]

does anyone know where i can get some quality 7 cell batts for a low price and has anyone tried out these heat sinks or know if they work? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG84&P=7

[guver]

I have used those heat sinks, there good, the traxxas ones I think are better.
I have 2 gp3300's for sale in the buy/sell forum

[riatvriderwd]

where can i get more info on the traxxas ones?

[Skribble]

E-Maxx project? post a pic, let's see what your doing.No pics. I lost my usb cord for my digicam. I was only making a light-weight racing E-Maxx.

A bunch of Pro-Line stuff, than GorillaMaxx chassis, DeWalt Drill motors, then maybe run like 8-10 cells.

But I just found out one of my LHS employees had some bad service with HPI, and since HPI owns HB, he thinks that brand sux0rz. Oh well, I guess I'll go with the Revo, then wait for an electric version/conversion to come out.

[guver]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJD62&P=7

they make anothwer one, but it's only half as wide. I like this one better than the blue associated one cuz even though the fins are smaller it's much stronger and the fins are going the right way; if ya know what i mean. It fits tight and wont fall off..

[Strata33]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJD62&P=7

they make anothwer one, but it's only half as wide. I like this one better than the blue associated one cuz even though the fins are smaller it's much stronger and the fins are going the right way; if ya know what i mean. It fits tight and wont fall off..


Sorry, I'm new to the hobby and I have an E-Maxx and have thought about getting this type of item but I don't understand what you said about the fins going the same way. They are going the same way, is it the size?

[riatvriderwd]

heres my list of basic upgrade i want to do..nothing special yet:

Custom machined motor plate
Transmission skid plate
Front and rear bumpers
Lower braces
7 cell 3300 batteries
New body
Heatsinks

im just not sure what i should get..so if you know of some good products let me know and ill take a look

[guver]

Sorry, I'm new to the hobby and I have an E-Maxx and have thought about getting this type of item but I don't understand what you said about the fins going the same way. They are going the same way, is it the size?

Ya you're right they are both going the right way to allow airflow, My bad I was thinking of the motor setting crosswise. The traxxas one is still a lot stronger than the other and won't fall off. I'ts just more heavy duty, it's thicker.

[riatvriderwd]

is there a place where i can most of those products ? so id ont have to order from alot of places

[riatvriderwd]

how do i put pictures in here?

[Strata33]

I'm looking to put some lights in my E-Maxx(Head & Rear) and I was wondering which company is best? which do you have in your truck if you run lights? do they suck up alot of battery power? I've never hooked them up or seen how they look so I'm really wondering if it's worth it, more of a problem with lights or is it pretty cool and reletively easy?

I'd really like some advice from you guys so I don't waste any time and money on an item I don't need or won't end up wanting.

[tadium54]

Just put together the torpedo chassis, and im a bit disappointed: the truck is so much slower, even with 14 cells. i doubt i broke 10 mph today. any idea on what could be caising this(the batteries were fresh off the charger)

[riatvriderwd]

i think one of my battery packs is messed up cause the wires came loose in the tamiya connector and when i charge it now the light never shuts off indicating that its fully charge and when i run the truck it seems like its only running off one batt or not full charge...so how do i kno if i am runnin only one batt or would the truck not run at all

[metalry101]

The Torpedo shouldn't affect speed. Do you have binding somewhere? Maybe the packs false peaked? Even if only one pack false peaked, the truck would still be very very slow. Other than that...don't know, but the chassis isn't the problem. I run the Torpedo on mine.

[Strata33]

I'm looking to put some lights in my E-Maxx(Head & Rear) and I was wondering which company is best? which do you have in your truck if you run lights? do they suck up alot of battery power? I've never hooked them up or seen how they look so I'm really wondering if it's worth it, more of a problem with lights or is it pretty cool and reletively easy?

I'd really like some advice from you guys so I don't waste any time and money on an item I don't need or won't end up wanting.


so I guess no one runs lights on there trucks? anyone got any info to help me out with this one? :confused:

[metalry101]

Hey man, sorry 'bout that...

I can't imagine any lights sucking down the juice like that, but most of them don't wire into the battery packs (at least that I know of). I think they usually have their own power source (typically a 9 volt battery)...

I don't know of many companies, and I don't know how good any of these are, but here are some links to what Tower has in the way of lights made specifically for a T-Maxx (so the wire lengths should be correct, as the E and T are the same size)...

Megatech (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESR8&P=7)

Ram (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXW3&P=ML)

Maxx-lights (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGVA2&P=7)

The Maxx-lights plug into an open Rx slot and get their power from that (not sure, maybe it plugs in between the Rx pack and the Rx??? Anyways...they're a lot more expensive too, so I guess I'd suggest the others...You could always make your own...You'd need some small guage wire, LEDs that could handle 9 volts, a 9 volt adapter thingee, and some inguenuity (sp?)...It'd be cheaper that way (at least I'd assume...). Radio shack sells a bunch of stuff, but I've never seen any LEDs there rated for more that like 3 volts...maybe they'd work? I don't know, what's the worst that could happen? You'd blow up 3 dollars worth of LEDs??? J/K, I don't know...never put LEDs in a car myself, never seen anyone do it, but it would look cool. Best of luck w/ it, and let us know how it goes. If you've got any more questions, don't be afraid to ask, we'll do the best we can to help you.

As for wondering whether it's worth it, well, it's not exactly a performance upgrade, but it could help at night. They won't light up the path, but they'll at least let you see where the truck is, and which way it's pointed (I could use that when I drive in the street at night, I know where the curbs are, they don't move, the truck is a bit harder to keep track of)...

I think it'd be cool, not many people run them, and really, they don't add much weight at all (it's a freakin E-Maxx anyways, no one ever accused a stock E-Maxx of being a light machine). It'd make your truck, more yours, and it'd look really cool, so I think it's definately a worthwhile upgrade. :D

[Strata33]

thanks metalry101!

yeah I've heard of those companies, Maxx-Lights seems to be the most popular I'm guessing judging from advertisments. I know it's not a performance upgrade but I thought it would be cool and since I can't paint a great custom body and don't (yet) know much about the working pieces of the truck enough to modify it and make it custom so I thought this might be a cool way to customize "my" truck + I work late and sometimes I have a big craving to take my truck out at night.

I don't know how they hook up and I haven't seen other truck in person running lights so I'm going to need some instructions. Anyone know of any "How To's" dealing with this subject?

thanks in advance too

[metalry101]

Umm, well, mounting should be pretty easy, and I'm assuming the lights would come w/ instructions on how to do it properly. Like I said, I've never done it, so I don't know exactly how 2 do it, but I'll bet quite a few of the people in the "Bodies, Painting, & Detailing" forum do. Not that I don't want to help you, but I think that they'd be a bit more help. I hear ya on not being able to paint. My artistic skills are a bit lacking, to say the least...Anyways, check out that other forum, as they've got some guys in there w/ some sick skills when it comes to customizing bodies, really, check out some of the bodies that they enter into the monthly competitions, it will AMAZE you. They're freakin incredible, and should be able to point you in the direction you need to go w/ all sorts of useful information...

[cnroman]

What voltage battery pack should I get to power the stock steering servo?

Thanks.

[bash-your-maxx]

hey guys wats the difference o the hacker brushlesssystems and the novak brushless system?

[tadium54]

6. volt for more performance. but most radios have a bec

hacker will be faster and more reliable is my bet. not too sure tho.

[bash-your-maxx]

has anyoe heard if they are going to make an electric revo?

[metalry101]

Haven't heard a yes or no yet, but if they do, I doubt it'll be out for at least a year. Should be pretty sick if they do though. Maybe we'll even get lucky and Traxxas will make it BL (like running Novak's new HV BL system) straight from the factory. Talk about sick, it'd smoke most nitro monsters w/ that I bet.

[bash-your-maxx]

Yeah I Would Buy That Right Away

[surfer]

whats the best but most inexspensive 7-cell pack for the maxx?

[MTkid7]

Look on ebay.

[guver]

I think loose gp 3300 would fit the bill. maybe $4.00 per cell

[tadium54]

ebay or your lhs is a safe place to start

[starluckrc]

www.hypercells.com

[tadium54]

Anyone have any experience with sending in a fried EVX? I'm about to do so and wouldn't mind hearing experiences

[bash-your-maxx]

whats the website for gpm parts

[guver]

http://www.gpmracing.us/

I sent in an evx, took about 2 weeks and I think $27.00 for repair. It was 34 days old,

[mwmatwijec]

good day to all. Have problem with my e maxx (wide). Was built form scratch pulls hard to the right. some one sade that there is a rack for aligment? if so where can i get one

[TeamMishap]

Don't you hate it when you order the front bulks when you busted the rears? Ugh.

I just installed them in the front and have to wait until the rears I ordered come in. What a PITA

[RyanSL1374]

Anyone know how to set up the E-Maxx suspension so that it doesn't flip everytime you make a tight turn at high speeds(especially on concrete and asphalt)... Mine has the red springs(stock I think) and a few small spacers...
Anyways, here's a pic of it... on top of my stadium truck.

Thanks,
Ryan

[metalry101]

For one...don't rail corners at WOT...the truck's not gonna do it w/o traction rolling. If you want to be able to, pick up some street tires and wider off-set rims (I've got some I'll sell ya in fact...40 bux plus shipping...great shape too). The extra width will make it almost impossible to roll. Other than that...get your suspension as low as possible. That means taking those lower screws in the A-arms out and pulling the shocks out to the last hole. Not sure how much difference that will make on the Widemaxx suspension though. I never ran that...I bought my E-Maxx back when it was still narrow...and then converted it to the wider width via the Pro-Line kit...best money I ever spent on that truck. I know moving the lower shock mounts out helped a bunch w/ the Pro-Line suspension...but the shock mounting holes are very different on the Traxxas arms. You might try softening up the suspension a bit, to see if you can get it to have more body roll w/o rolling the truck...or maybe you'll want to try stiffening it up...doubt either will help much, but you can try. That sure won't fix the problem, but it might help. Can't say for sure. Since you're traction rolling, the only solutions are lowering the CG, making the truck wider, or reducing traction, or any combination of the three.

[guver]

Ditto for all that. It works good. Another thing I did was to carry batts underneath chassis instead of on top.

[attic]

i just realized that my rear sliders are twisted and the rear center slider is also twisted. i was wondering if some one makes a replacement that is stronger then stock but doesnt cost alot. by the way i have the wide maxx.

[guver]

MIP makes them, maybe pro-line too. All my rear sliders are twisting too, I just keep running them and am very surprised they just keep going and going.......

[metalry101]

If you're looking for the dirt cheap fix, buy a wooden dowel... I wanna say 3/16" in diameter...and shove it down the hollow slider. The universals on the ends of the sliders, and on the output shaft of the diffs will still be weak, but the shafts won't be able to twist much, because to twist, they have to collapse, and the dowel prohibits that. This is really just a temorary fix...as it's just like adding aluminum to your truck, it just moves the weakest point to something else, in this case, the U-joints will break instead of the shafts, but it does help some. Changing your driving habits a bit will help too. The most likely culprit is landing jumps on-throttle. Even little bumps where the truck gets an inch off the ground can break the driveshafts, because that momentary air-time will let the motors and drivetrain spool up due to the utter lack of resistance (air's not hard to push out of the way), but when the truck touches terra firma again...all the momentum of 4 spinning tires has to go somewhere. That shockload is not kind to Traxxas's plastic sliders...or even metal dogbones on a truck like the Savage. If you're looking for cheap replacements, you might try to find some CVD's used. Dynamite makes some CV-drive's for your truck as well...Here's a link... Dynamite CV's (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=DYN7689). I don't think you'll find a less expensive set of metal drives for your truck than those Dynamites. For others...the MIP's or the Pro-Line's will work as well...but they're about 10 dollars more per end (45 bux for each pair).

[TeamMishap]

Just got my new Hitec MG 625 installed onto my Emaxx yesterday and I am having some problems with it.

It buzzes quietly, and kind of jittery sounding when it turns and when it doesn't come back to dead center. My old cheapy Traxxas servo never did this. I disconnected all the other servos to try to isolate glitching and it still does it. When I take off the servo horn wheel the servo operates without any of these extra sounds.

My setup is a 5 cell receiver pack going into the receiver and only the Hitec plugged into it. I have yet to have everything set up going through my Hacker Comp Master ESC. Am I glitching, retarded for missing an easy set-up error, or both?

Thanks!

BTW. Germany is great. I finally have all the pieces to put my broken Maxx together and play some more. I just want to get this servo thingee squared away before bashing again.

[QDiddy]

Hi

How fast can a brushless eMaxx go?
What is the best and worst system for the Maxx?

Thanks

Just trying to learn a little, cause I'm thinking about getting rid of my new 2.5 Rustler for a BL Maxx.

[TeamMishap]

I really like my Hacker Master Comp and B50-12S combo. The only problem is that the Master Comp is limited to twelve cells, but that is all I ever run. I had to get the Bombproof Torpedo chassis to lengthen the chassis because whenever I'd punch the gas from a stop, the E would back flip.

I'm considering getting another Hacker (B50-8S or B50-something Long) motor for my Maxx and just letting my 50-12S sit in my Evader.

Fastest I've clocked it was 28mph by GPS, but I think it's much faster, because my GPS doesn't pick up speed instantaniously and I wasn't able to run it whole hog for a good distance.

Feel free to PM me on here if you have more questions.

Hi

How fast can a brushless eMaxx go?
What is the best and worst system for the Maxx?

Thanks

Just trying to learn a little, cause I'm thinking about getting rid of my new 2.5 Rustler for a BL Maxx.

[Don1Lcm]

I really like my Hacker Master Comp and B50-12S combo. The only problem is that the Master Comp is limited to twelve cells, but that is all I ever run. I had to get the Bombproof Torpedo chassis to lengthen the chassis because whenever I'd punch the gas from a stop, the E would back flip.

I'm considering getting another Hacker (B50-8S or B50-something Long) motor for my Maxx and just letting my 50-12S sit in my Evader.

Fastest I've clocked it was 28mph by GPS, but I think it's much faster, because my GPS doesn't pick up speed instantaniously and I wasn't able to run it whole hog for a good distance.

Feel free to PM me on here if you have more questions.
To answer Qdiddy's and Teamishap. my emaxx with the B50 and fourteen cells did 42 mph before the tire rip from the rims flip about 8 times. holy S--t WHAT A RUSH

Thanks Big Don

[vic2367]

anyone know exactly how to set up the emaxx with a 5 cell reciever pack ? heard talk of it but not familiar with the procedure,,,want the reciever pack to move the front wheels(5 cell reviever pack controlling my steering servo ),,,,any help thanks in advance,,,,

[guver]

Haven't done it myself, but you have to plug it into the rx where it says batt. Also there is a wire to remove. I'm not sure, but think it's the red one on channel 1.BEC circuit.

[vic2367]

ok.....thanks...wont try it till i know for sure though...

[zippy]

remove the red wire from the esc.

[eddie84]

hello all.
this is my first time with an electric truck. i've decided on buying an e-maxx after some consideration and reading the reviews all over. i was running an almost stock ek-4 for quite sometime until a month ago when it was run over by a truck (scale 1:1) and destroyed.
i don't know much about electric trucks and i would like to know, which are the stock parts i would have to upgrade before i would be able to put the truck to use (i was alarmed after reading about motors burning out within two days of purchase on the version 1 forum)
if anyone would help me in filling out a Must upgrade list.

also, is the futaba i was using for my ek-4 possible to use on the maxx or will the one supplied be enough?
thanks

[guver]

I would recommend decent batteries and charger, for starters nothing needs upgraded just check the slipper and motor mounts and pinions screws. The stock radio is ok for a stock truck, and you may be dissapointed after running an EK-4. Best bet is to get 14 cells gp3300 batts to be the fastest in stock form.

[eddie84]

thanks

[eddie84]

what about the steering servo. i hear the stock one is pretty weak. any suggestions

[guver]

In the beginning the stock servo seems just fine, while wearing out and the servo saver and servo getting sloppy and weak after awhile.

[vintage_steeps]

Hows it going everyone? Im hoping i can get some answers? I have had a txt for a while with an evx in it and stock cans. I just picked up my first e maxx and i love it ! I however just had a problem when i tossed in some 17 turn pro maxx motors in the e maxx.? I think it killed the evx? Has this happened to anone else? Im wondering why trinity would make a motor the the evx could not handle? I mean if the evx cant handle this motor and the motors are custom made for an e maxx then shouldnt they make sure these are compatable? If my evx is burnt im thinking trinity should replace it. Anyone with any other problems with these motors or esc's? Or is there a esc stronger then the evx?

[AlexV2024]

Trinity dosnt really care if the evx can handall the motors or not, which is why their new motors are in the 14t range. which the EVX will not be able to handall at all unless you run 1 evx per 14t. i fell sorry for the guys that go and spend $100 in motors and then blow their esc bc trinity is greedy.

Did you gear down wh