E-Maxx Forum v2.0 [Archive] - Page 5

metalry101

09-14-2004, 04:29 PM

Okay...on your 2400's...how old are they? If they're old, or have been abused or undercharged a lot, it's quite possible that they may have just developed memory. Cell memory sucks, and NIMH's don't do it. I would assume that's what your problem is if your charger always charges them to the same point and then detects that they're done. You can try just charging them again after it tells you it's peaked the first time, but I'd be careful, if the battery misses the peak or they have developed the memory and the cells don't want to take the charge, they could explode. Your charger will probably detect that and stop the charge again if the cells truly are full, but I'd definately suggest watching it anyways.

As for the batteries you linked to...I wouldn't...here's what I would suggest.

The Hoopty (http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm)

That's Pro-Match Racing. I've never heard anything but good things about their products and I've still got some old Sanyo 3000's that I got from them a while back...they're still strong. 80.99 for a pair of assembled 7-cell packs in E-Maxx configuration. You'd probably be lookin at about 90 bux shipped, so they're a little pricier than the ones you listed, but you're getting them from a very reputable company with excellent customer service and a proven track record. I would suggest those over any other 7-cell packs made for an E-Maxx. If you're just looking for some decent packs, I'd probably suggest the Sanyo 3000 stick packs that they've got on their front page. Not the greatest cells ever, but not bad, and for 20 bux, it's hard to lose.

sorbee711

09-14-2004, 04:53 PM

My 2400s are about 1 month old and have maybe 15 cycles through them.

$90 is fine for 2 7 cell packs. I just don't want to have to assemble them. :)

Thanks for the help. My E-maxx is tons of fun. I already put on RPM wear plates and a servo guard. Once the bumpers break I'll replace those too.

I've also got my eye on the Robinson Racing double slipper clutch - as RR makes good stuff. :)

sorbee711

09-14-2004, 05:08 PM

Also just to make sure, the DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Deluxe Pulse Charger is a good charger to use with NiMH correct? I want one that will charge the batteries and won't overheat or damage them.

Thanks. :)

metalry101

09-14-2004, 05:11 PM

Wow...that new eh? Ur charger could be messed...or maybe you're getting some drag somewhere? Is your gear mesh tight or something? 2400's should last over 5 minutes running wide open in second...lotz, lotz, lotz longer just pokin around in first. Something's wrong w/ either your truck, your batteries, or your charger. It's sounding like the batteries or the charger to me...but I don't know. Got any other vehicles so you can test each battery seperately? Or another charger you could try?

metalry101

09-14-2004, 05:15 PM

And yes...that's a good charger, I haven't used that one specifically, but I did have the Intellipeak Digital for a while, and I still do have a Piranha Digital...I loved the Intellipeak when I had it and I still love my Piranha. They're great chargers and both work very well w/ Nicd and Nimh cells. Just a word of caution...don't be too surprised when your PS frys. It's not a matter of if, only a matter of when. Duratrax had to go cheap on something to get chargers as quality and feature filled as the Intellipeak series at the prices that they are, and that thing is the PS. It's complete and utter junk. The chargers themselves are very solid units, easily the best buys for the money on the market...but the included PS isn't.

sorbee711

09-14-2004, 05:21 PM

I can try running it on my HPI sprint and see how it lasts. I had the cover off last night looking at the slipper and the gear mesh seemed pretty ok, but I'll check it again.

I figured for basic bashing about in 1st the packs should last longer, glad I'm not crazy.

Thanks for the help. I think I'll get those emaxx batteries from Pro-Match soon. That way I can run the 2400s then the good ones and have plenty of bash time. Probably longer than my bro-in-laws T-Maxx, because once his gets hot it takes quite some time to cool. :)

sorbee711

09-15-2004, 08:51 AM

Checked the mesh of the pinion and spur gears and it was all ok.

I'm now starting to worry it is the charger because when I charge my 1500 battery for the sprint (the one that came with it) that thing seems to last like 3 minutes. And the sprint barely pulls and power. I previously had just figured it was the crap stock battery, but now I'm starting to think it is the charger.

I checked all the connections for the power supply and the output leads, all looked fine. Should I send it back to tower for a new one?

sorbee711

09-15-2004, 11:49 AM

metalry101

09-15-2004, 11:54 AM

Ya...give 'em a ring and tell them what's up. That definately sounds like a defective charger. It could be 3 defective batteries...but most likely not. Just to make sure you should probably try charging your batteries on another charger. You said your bro-in-law has a T-Maxx? Well...unless he converted it to a pullstart he's gotta have a charger for his EZ-Start battery, so try charging yours on that and see what happens.

4wdmt

09-15-2004, 11:55 AM

if you want 1st/low gear, the red thing should stick out at the bottom.

guver

09-15-2004, 11:58 AM

One more question - not to look like too dumb here, but just to make sure I am running it in 1st gear, should the red thing stick out on top or bottom on the control. I think it sticks out on the top right now, but I really can't remember.

Thanks.

In low gear the shifter get pulled forward , high gear is pushed back. You'll know which one cuz high gear is way faster than low. On your transmitter it depends which way the servo reversing swithch is set. It could be either way, but I have had 4 of them and they all were in high gear with the top of the red button out. I also switched all of them cuz low gear should always be down and high gear up. like a truck transmission. or range selector.

sorbee711

09-15-2004, 12:10 PM

I'll call my brother in law for his charger and give that a try. I'm doubting it is the battery because having 3 bad ones seems a bit odd. I've also sent an email to tower to see what they have to say.

Thanks for the help.

I hope to get my E up to its full potential soon!

BTW, if I get the 7-cell Pro-Match batteries are the Gorilla Maxx battery straps the best to use with them?

http://www.gorillamaxx.com/ - the battery straps

metalry101

09-15-2004, 12:28 PM

The stock battery straps work fine. Pro-Match assembles them in a way that allows them to fit perfectly in the stock chassis, just like those pictured in the link from Ebay. That's why they're a seperate item...specifically for the E-Maxx.

sorbee711

09-16-2004, 12:55 PM

Anyone tried this method of motor cleaning?

http://www.e-maxximumrc.com/html/motor_cleaning.html

I am thinking of doing this to ensure my motors aren't contributing to the problem. I haven't been able to run my E due to the rain here and it looks like it will be next week before the rain from Ivan moves out of the Northeast. :(

guver

09-16-2004, 01:02 PM

Never tried that for cleaning, but I had one the other nite that wouldn't breakin or seat brushes so I tried dipping in water to seat brushes and it still wouldn't do it. I finally gave up and just installed it.

metalry101

09-16-2004, 02:21 PM

Heard of it b4, you can do it w/ any electric motor. I don't know whether or not to suggest it, but I'm leaning towards no. Water takes forever and a day to dry, so while you may have a nice clean motor, you may also have a rusty motor after a while. I've rusted the armature on a P2K2 cuz I drove it in the snow and mud a lot way back in the day, and I'm sure leaving water in your Titans will do the same. Instead of doing that, just suck it up and buy a can of motor spray. I know it's not real cheap for what you get, but your motors won't rust, and if you do more than a half-ass job, you should get similiar results. Whichever way you choose, the most important part of the whole process is relubing the bushings. If you don't, it won't matter how clean your motor is because you'll have all sorts of friction in the bushings. I've always used motor spray and never had any problems...just pull the motors, blast them till what runs out is clear, then keep rotating the motor and blasting in different spots to try and ensure a completely clean motor, then relube the bushings really well. That's what I've always done, it's worked well for me.

BTW...Anyone want another E-Maxx? Hopefully I'll have some pics up later tonight. It's a nice truck w/ a lot of mods, needs a new home, and I need the funding. I'm lookin for 350 for it. All it needs is a radio. PM me if you're interested and/or want more information.

sorbee711

09-16-2004, 02:38 PM

Yeah, I'll likely just go the motor cleaner / oil route. I'd never heard of this method before so I figured I'd ask. Since I have to grab some oil this weekend, I'll just grab the cleaner also. With luck the weather will improve and I can actually run my Emaxx. I doubt it though. :( Stupid rain!

vintage_steeps

09-16-2004, 09:37 PM

Sorbee
Hows it going? I have bad news and good news for you . 1ST tHE BAD , I guarantee you its your charger , i have had 3 intellipeaks and they are the kings of the false peak ! Best advise would be to charge and let cool then toss it on charge again should take 45 to an hour to charge 1 pack. My advise would be to sell the charger on e bay before the power source dies like someone else mentioned because i guarantee you it will. You will also notice improvement in your chargers performance if you get a normal house fan and point it directly at it while the charger and power source are in use make sure the power source is under the fan to. Sad part about the power source is they go bad because they used a cheap fuse inside and they solder it in so its impossible to replace.
2ND the good stuff i have an e maxx and i have picked up epic packs from tower they sell 2 3000 sport packs for less then 40.oo and they last me around 20 30 minutes easy and i have 17 turn pro maxx motors. Buying expensive packs for running around bashing an E is just a waste . For the 80 you spend on 1 pack you could buy 4 3000 sport packs from epic or orion on Tower Hobbies and multiply your bash time. Good Luck !!

sorbee711

09-17-2004, 09:11 AM

http://www.weather.com/activities/driving/interstate/weather/tenday.html?locid=01545

Looks like Sunday will be a bashing day for me! If it is the charger I may just return it to tower and get a different one. Any suggestions on good ones that are AC and also aren't like $200?

Thanks.

metalry101

09-17-2004, 11:16 AM

I don't know exactly what you're looking to spend, or what your LHS carries, but here are my suggestions for relatively cheap chargers that work well.

Duratrax Piranha Digital - I've got one...had it for like 2 years now...helluva charger for the money.
Dynamite Prophet Plus - Nothing special, but is AC and DC compatible, has peak detection, will do Nimh and Nicd, and has 1, 2, and 4 amp charge rates, selectable by you. This is the charger I sell to everyone who buys a Traxxas or HPI nitro vehicle nowadays (for their EZ-Start or Rotostart battery respectively). They're solid chargers for the money.
MRC Superbrain 959 - 'Bout the same price as the Pirahna. Not a bad little charger, never used one myself though. It's got the LCD readout like the Piranha, and many of the same features. I've heard of some false-peaking problems w/ it, but I haven't heard them in a while, so maybe they've fixed it. If not, you can always buy a little fan and install it on the airvents into the charger...helps move the air around a bit, as MRC didn't think to put a fan in the thing when they designed it. It's an excellent charger for the money, very feature filled, and w/ lotza room to grow.

There are probably others, but those are the 3 I can think of off the top of my head that would probably work best for you. I personally run the Piranha Digital, and I love it, but lotza people swear by the Superbrain. Those two are about 50 bux apiece, whereas the Dynamite is about 40 bones. I would suggest the two digital (the ones w/ LCD readouts, the Superbrain and the Piranha) chargers over the Dynamite, as they've got a lot more adjustability and fun features to use in the future. One thing that might be a deciding factor for you is the AC charge rate...the Superbrain will do up to 4.5 on AC or DC power. The Piranha will do 3 amps on AC power and 5 amps on DC power. So...the Piranha can be a bit slow on AC for newer packs...but for all the other features you get, I still think it's a solid value. For 50 bux, either charger is one helluva bargain. HTH

sorbee711

09-17-2004, 11:34 AM

I may be buying into marketing speak, but isn't the Intellipeak series supposed to be better than the Piranha? I'm just wondering why my $80 charger from Duratrax would be worse than their $50 model.

Thanks.

guver

09-17-2004, 02:02 PM

I prefer the digital intellipeak for a single, and the 969 superbrain for a twin charger. They're both under a hundred bucks. I have both on the market for $69.00 each.

vintage_steeps

09-17-2004, 08:13 PM

The intellipeak chargers are great its like someone said earlier they got cheap on the power source and bang the chargers overall quality goes way down. i just picked up the 969 and it works pretty good so far but can anyone say light up screen.

vintage_steeps

09-17-2004, 08:15 PM

Hey Anyone Check Out Or Pick Up The New E Maxx Crawler Chassis From Rc4wd ? Im Interested But The Damn Video Wont Show On My Computer Anyone Know Anything About It ?

Chris

TeamMishap

09-18-2004, 06:54 AM

Who out there has a better way to secure batteries on the Torpedo chassis, rather than using those darned battery cups?

microrcdude

09-18-2004, 10:27 AM

velcro works great!

so does this: http://www.sslorder.com/speedtechrc/21.html

sorbee711

09-20-2004, 09:59 AM

Soooooooo happy.

So I peak charged my Sanyo 2400s on Friday. Peaked them again on Sat. Sat. evening went over to my in-laws and my bro-in-law brought his T-Maxx. So not only did my car haul butt, but it ran for like 15 min!!!!! I was totally psyched as the longest I'd had the batteries last before was 5 min. So it looks like my intellipeak is just shutting off too early.

But the best part was that my bro-in-law spent about 5 minutes running and 15 getting his T-Maxx to run (he had to change his glow plug and tune). So then he tries crawling over my E-Maxx while I was talking to someone and I flipped his T-Maxx on its back and it stalled. He tried the run over me a 3 other times with the same result! Hehe. It is sweet being able to just plug in the batts. and going.

I'm so happy with my E-Maxx now. And I've got some Pro-Match 7 cell GP3300s coming soon. So my run time with both the 2400s and the 3300s should be 1/2hr or more. :)

sny

09-20-2004, 02:50 PM

Good for you sorbee711, I love my E-Maxx too. :)

TeamMishap

09-21-2004, 01:12 PM

Sorbee...wait until you go brushless. More power... More runtime... More money...

I've been thinking about getting a Revo, but here in Germany, I've not been able to find a hobby shop and Tower won't ship fuel on airplanes. Ha. Imagine that.

Ever since I got my E a couple years ago, my poor Evader has just been collecting dust. I'm half tempted just to sell it.

...Just another pointless post by TeamMishap

vintage_steeps

09-21-2004, 08:21 PM

sorbee711

09-22-2004, 09:34 AM

Homeskillet

09-25-2004, 10:36 PM

vintage_steeps

09-25-2004, 11:53 PM

sny

09-26-2004, 02:12 AM

Hello All,

I have a quick concern regarding my new Emaxx's power and run time. I just recently purchased a Emaxx along with two Sanyo 3600 millamp batteries. When I first got this thing it would pull wheelies like nothing. Now, after only about 3 runs it does not have the power to pull a wheelie on any surface. Whats up? And how long should these 3600 miliamp batteries be lasting?

THanks,
Homeskillet

The slipper clutch slipping. If you listen carefully, you will hear it slip. Mine used to come loose every few runs, until I put some thread lock on the bastard. :D

Now I get this in second gear:
http://www.pbase.com/image/34249481/medium.jpg

Homeskillet

09-26-2004, 01:06 PM

The slipper clutch slipping. If you listen carefully, you will hear it slip. Mine used to come loose every few runs, until I put some thread lock on the bastard. :D

Now I get this in second gear:
http://www.pbase.com/image/34249481/medium.jpg

Sweetness......How far down to you crank it? Just like the manual says? All the way down then 1/4 turn out?

Thanks,
Homeskillet

sny

09-26-2004, 01:45 PM

Sweetness......How far down to you crank it? Just like the manual says? All the way down then 1/4 turn out?

Thanks,
Homeskillet

That should be fine. Mine is actually a touch tighter than that. I'd say about 1/8th out.

How to keep the dogs busy:

http://www.pbase.com/image/34270374/medium.jpg

Click here for bigger pic (http://www.pbase.com/image/34270374)

Homeskillet

09-26-2004, 04:00 PM

What do you all suggest for component upgrades? I was thinking about replacing the pieces as they brake with aluminum but then thought graphite might be lighter ?? I really want more power out of this too...It just doest seem to be real punchy and I have new batteries.. =0

Homeskillet

09-27-2004, 04:05 PM

...on top of upgrading to lighter and stonger components what are some killer motors to put in this? I am trying to get some info on some other threads but isnt the Novak EVX esc a step up from the Super Rooster? Should be able to put some serious motors in there....

Homeskillet

guver

09-27-2004, 06:20 PM

I think the max motor with evx and 12 cells is a 19 turn 550. Wild e-maxx motors or electrifly are the only two I can think of. Better to increase the cell count to the max and leave the stock titans though.

fuzzy2133

09-27-2004, 11:13 PM

there is always a brushless setup although the tranny and diffs might not like it after a few runs.

sorbee711

09-28-2004, 09:27 AM

I can't wait to run my E on my new 7-cell GP3300s, stupid rain from Jeanne is ruining that plan though. :(

sorbee711

09-28-2004, 09:32 AM

For the web site its rc4wd.com a site i think we all knoa. Its under e maxx obviously lol. There are some pics of it but not very clear and there ais a vid but it wont pop up could someone check it out for me and give me there opinion? Also you might just have to tighten up the trannis on your e its probably not tight enough. or your batteries are not charged enough.

chris

The video sucks, you can't really see much. I'm not even sure what improvements they could claim off of it. It doesn't really seem to be any better than a stock E. It would probably help though if the video were better and showed more. It is basically an E driving around on some loose rocks.

cnroman

09-28-2004, 03:41 PM

I'm thinking of cutting the springs to lower the ride height om my E-Maxx. Is there a simpler sulotion?

Thks

vintage_steeps

09-28-2004, 05:40 PM

Hey Sorbee thanks i appreciate it ! I would have spent money in vain , i think i will invest in a G-Maxx roll cage insted. Any opinions on that from anyone ?

chris

sorbee711

09-29-2004, 10:05 AM

I'm thinking of cutting the springs to lower the ride height om my E-Maxx. Is there a simpler sulotion?

Thks

Cutting spring on the E is as bad an idea as it is on a real car. To lower the ride height just adjust the shock position on both the shock towers and A arms. One you drop it as low as you can with those two you pretty much have it bottomed out. Also I'd remove some or all of the preload clips on your shocks. The springs won't make too much of a difference once you've done all that.

moon buggy

09-29-2004, 07:11 PM

Hey guys im kinda reposting because i was hoping for a response . I was wondering if anyone had seen that new e maxx crawler kit on rc 4wd ? If so has anyone checked out the video on the site it wont open on my computer? How does it look in the vid? I really want to pick it up but i wanna see it in action u know. Anyone buy it out there?

chris
I think this is a better e-maxx crawler kit
http://img44.exs.cx/img44/2827/PICT5134.jpg
http://img44.exs.cx/img44/2818/PICT5136.jpg
http://img44.exs.cx/img44/2818/PICT5142.jpg

moon buggy

09-29-2004, 07:14 PM

hmm it cut off the last pic
http://img50.exs.cx/img50/2741/PICT5142.jpg

MT Dude

09-29-2004, 09:47 PM

moon buggy,

nice maxx, that is some insane clearance
im diggin those side lugs on your kongs, how did you do that? can you notice any traction enhancement with that modification?

-Chris

vintage_steeps

09-30-2004, 12:22 AM

Where did you buy that kit looks really good. Do you have a pic with the body off showing the internals?

chris

moon buggy

09-30-2004, 06:46 PM

well, it isn't mine, but i can tell you about it, the side lugs on the kongs are glued on with ic2000 i think(it is a rubberized CA) and yes from what i'm told the side lugs help a lot. I don't know if the kit is ready yet but you can buy the chassis, and lock out the ifs/irs by yourself, and 4-link it. You should also mount a gear reduction like the GD600 onto the tranny and run only one moter and one battey pack. But i only suggest buying this if you plan on doing some serious crawling.
http://img2.exs.cx/img2/7890/RCRG_RR_001.jpg

http://img17.exs.cx/img17/2538/PICT5391.jpg

moon buggy

09-30-2004, 06:49 PM

ohh yeah the chassis costs:
Rockraider Chassis Sport: Chassis, 4" shock mounts and mounting hardware for mounts. Price - $70

Rockraider Chassis Sport XL: Chassis, Savage shock mounts and hardware for mounts. Price - $78

Rockraider Chassis Pro: Chassis, Savage shock mounts, Stampede tranny mount and mounting hardware. Price - $85

Rockraider Chassis Pro XL: Chassis, Savage shock mounts, E-Maxx tranny mount and mounting hardware. Price - $88

Stand alone parts:

4" shock mounts w/ mounting hardware Price - $12
Savage shock mounts w/ mounting hardware Price - $14
Stampede transmission mount w/ mounting hardware Price - $10
E-Maxx Transmission mounts w/ mounting hardware Price - $15

MT Dude

09-30-2004, 07:32 PM

moon buggy,
you mentioned a gear reduction unit, the GD600.
do you have any info on that? i need some type of reduction for my TXT-1, i want it geared somewhere around 85:1

thanks
-Chris

moon buggy

10-01-2004, 12:21 AM

if you want a bolt on reduction i would suggest the mammoth gearbox (from the dumptruck, not the XTM) even though it is a little more expensive than the GD600, you'd need 4 bearings I think and some tamiya parts. Or if you want more flexability the GD600 is 15 bucks and available from tower hobbies(do a search). if you end up getting this you need to either drill out the pinnion or use a file to make the shaft the right diameter. If you want more info just ask.

MT Dude

10-01-2004, 01:10 AM

if i were to use the GD600 reductions, could i mount 2 of them on an emaxx tranny?

what about the mammoth gear boxes?
are they like a whole seperate gear box? whats the ratio?

thanks
-Chris

moon buggy

10-01-2004, 05:48 PM

you know the juggernaut variant: the mammoth dumptruck, well the txt has the same tranny the jugg does so the mammoth reduction will fit the txt-1:
you will get a Gear ratio of 91.6: 1 by using this
Gear Box Plate.............4245019
Gear Shaft....................2595133
T Parts.........................0225092
Gear Bag......................9335344
Heat Sink A&B............9805657
1 – 850 Ball Bearing.......53030 (4pcs)
1 – 1150 Ball Bearing.....53008 (4pcs)
2 - 3x10mm screws
3 – 3x12 tapping screws
here is the link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58268
and for the e-maxx tranny do you mean piggyback or one per motor?

MT Dude

10-02-2004, 05:18 AM

thanks for the info moonbuggy,
for the emaxx tranny, i was refering to using 2 GD600 reduction units with 2 motors (1 mounted on each) my question is this: will 2 of them fit? how durable are they? and what size is the output shaft on the reduction unit?

any help is appreciated
-Chris

Maxxcrazy

10-02-2004, 10:02 AM

Since we're posting pics of maxx crawlers...

Heres mine:
Custom Aluminum Solid axles
Custom Aluminum Chassis
Maxx tranny diffs and pivot balls
LST Tires on dyed RPM Clawz
Hobbico CS80 servo (330+ Oz/in)
GD600 with Multiplex 600 motor (30min runtimes with a 1900 pack)
Integy maxx shocks with soft springs
Custom 4 link
Revo shafts in the center, maxx sliders on the axles
Bronco body
12T pinion on GD600, 9T pinion on GD's output and a 72T spur making for a ratio of 140:1

Stats:
15.5in wheelbase
15.5in width
7in tires
12in tall
100* approach
100* departure
4in diff clearence
5in center clearence

http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album295/DSCF0034.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album295/DSCF0040.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album295/DSCF0043.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album295/DSCF0030.jpg
http://mini-zracer.com/albums/album295/DSCF0029.jpg

Some info on the GD600
It bolts right up to a stock emaxx motor plate and should fit on a TXT. You can buy optional pinion gears to change the reduction, I have mine set at 3.8:1, the lowest. Stock they come with 2.5:1. Any 540-600 motor should bolt right up to the GD600. The gears are very strong for plastic, haven't broken any. The output shaft is the problem, it is 5mm. You could either buy some 5mm 32p pinions or grind the shaft down to 3mm. I ground mine down, it works well and is not hard to do.

rckid11

10-02-2004, 10:34 AM

How fast would a 2800xl motor be in an e-maxx on 12 gp 3300 cells. I am running a 61k controller.

moon buggy

10-02-2004, 03:12 PM

here is the link for the gd600 on tower's web-site: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSL79&P=ML
For the shaft diameter being too large just lock it in a drill, lathe, drill-press and use a metal file to make any pinion fit, if you mess up that's fine because replacement shafts cost something like 3 bucks. And for the durability, I've never heard of one breaking.

MT Dude

10-03-2004, 04:21 AM

hey guys,
thanks for the info regarding the GD600 reduction units, i now have 2 of them on the way along some 5mm bore pinions

appreciate it

-Chris

Maxxcrazy

10-03-2004, 03:55 PM

Some short videos

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=39416
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=39417
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=39418

Put rc pics in for the *****

Soya v1.1

10-09-2004, 01:23 AM

Just to let you guys know I haven't been sleeping :)

attic

10-09-2004, 03:28 PM

will the revo sliders fit in the emaxx?

Maxxcrazy

10-09-2004, 10:00 PM

If you shorten them, yes. I have a set on the center of my maxx, look for pics above

attic

10-10-2004, 02:23 PM

k thanks i might have to try them before getting cvds.

sorbee711

10-12-2004, 10:57 AM

I ran my E for the first time this weekend with my 7-cell GP3300s from Pro Match. Things were going well until it wouldn't go forward anymore. I thought it was the pinions had come off as I could hear the engine.

Turns out I had destroyed my spur gear! The slipper was too tight from the factory and my slipper clutch had eaten about 1/2 way through my spur gear on one side. Fun times...

Looks like I'll be getting the Robinson Racing double slipper a little sooner than expected. ;)

metalry101

10-12-2004, 11:17 AM

^^^Not quite man...

If your slipper ate through your spur gear, it was set too tight. Think about it...the slipper disks are keyed to the output shaft of the transmission, but the spur gear is not, it's clamped by those disks. If it's set too tight then there is no slippage, and no wear on the center section of the spur. It's just very very hard on the rest of the drivetrain, as there is no give to absorb shockloads.

On the other hand...if your slipper is a bit loose, it's not clamping your spur gear very tightly, and as such, allowing a lot of slippage. There is some friction, as it still grabs well enough for your truck to move, but it slips enough to develop a lot of heat and actually melt your spur gear. E-Maxxes are notorious for this, partially because of design, but mostly because of relatively green owners.

Tighten your slipper to solve this problem. If you loosen it you'll only melt another spur...you don't want that kind of headache and frustration...

sorbee711

10-12-2004, 11:46 AM

I think I had it as tight as it would go. I tried cranking it down a bit more last time I had the cover off, so it was probably too tight. Either way I've gotta get something new and I think the RRP double slipper looks good to me. :D

fuzzy2133

10-12-2004, 06:30 PM

next time I take that stupid cover off it will not be going on. it is a nice touch traxxas put on however you can not tighten the slipper with it in the way. you know what I might just mod it to my needs. :)

Cildein

10-13-2004, 12:03 PM

Two questions.

1. Do any of the following really enhance the gearing ratio or torque of the transmission? I am currently running 72T spur with 12T pinion and I get kind of a louder whinning noise (then normal stock) when in first gear at low speeds.
Traxxas Input Shaft Drive Gear Low E-Maxx
Traxxas Shafts/Idler Gear E-Maxx
Traxxas Shaft Low Idler Gear Shaft E-Maxx

2. I have spools in front and back with 4 wheel steering. I have noticed that my right rear tire actually does not spin when the wheel is turned all the way. When I stop turning and it goes straight, it is like it engages and the posi is in full effect? Is the spool gear slipping or out of place?

guver

10-13-2004, 02:00 PM

1 I'm wondering if "enhance" means to gear up or down, but if the number of teeth are the same then the speed/tork is the same.

2 If you have s[pools and no center diff, then all the wheels are tied together at all times. If one wheel is turned, they all turn the same way and speed. If 1 is not turning then when you turn, something is pulling away /disengageing. I can't imagine what would do that unless something is already broken. I think you could have it nailed, spool gear .

fuzzy2133

10-13-2004, 07:07 PM

I think the traxxas parts listed are light weight that will only reduce rotating mass and allow the tranny to spin up faster giving you better acceleration.

rpmmaxxed

10-14-2004, 06:16 PM

How do I set up my truck to run a super rooster?

I know how to wire the motors properly, but I am stumped on how to wire the batts to give the titans the required voltage.

Help me guys.

guver

10-14-2004, 06:20 PM

If you want to use 12 cells (which is over limit I think) then hook up 1 + to esc and the - to the other battery's + and then that battery's - to the esc.

Basically just making one single 12 cell (or ten cell) battery

guver

10-14-2004, 06:23 PM

A better way to do it would be to run a rx pack for the bec and servos then use the plug for the sub c batts. Another good way is to pull bec power from only 5-6 cells and use all of them on the big plug.

Hope you get what I mean, These two ways will allow you to possibly get away with 12, 14 or more cells total than the first way I said.

rpmmaxxed

10-14-2004, 08:17 PM

ok
Im just bummed that I will have to run 12 cells. I will be buying a good condition maxx soon rtr with batts and charger for $100. The only thing is that I dont know if it has an evx or VX12 esc.

guver

10-14-2004, 09:34 PM

You have to run 12? I have a evx in the buy/sell area, I think for $89 It is brand new.

search for guver username in the buy/sell forums as threads to see the price and pics

rpmmaxxed

10-14-2004, 11:57 PM

I think im just gonna go with a SuperE from mtroniks, $80 new at my lhs. Im also going to run 775 size drill motors :)

guver

10-15-2004, 03:22 PM

I would be real interested in hearing how the esc does. That;'s a good price too.

I'm just fixin' to go to 17 cells soon.

rpmmaxxed

10-15-2004, 05:55 PM

Well, I have seen a truck run with the 775 drill motors. Wow. Geared 22/66, it is geared low. Wheelies in 2nd no problem with12 cells. Running 14 cells, Im sure the truck could be geared way higher, have huge topened, and still be able to wheelie. This setup is comparable to many brushless setups in power and speed, but a fraction of the cost. The motors can be had for $3.99, but are somewhat hard to find and must be bought in bulks of 10.

And you can still run a EVX or Super E esc.

rpmmaxxed

10-15-2004, 06:05 PM

I also heard that the SuperE can handle 16-18 cells, but that has not been confirmed yet.

rpmmaxxed

10-16-2004, 08:55 PM

I MADE A LARGE MISTAKE. LARGE LARGE LARGE MISTAKE.

The 775 motors that I have been reffering too are NOT DRILL MOTORS. They are infact 775 size motors made by mabuchi. They do not have an direct use, but companies buy them through mabuchi to replace other motors.

I need to find the link where I saw the motors and how they were mounted.

SORRY FOR THE MISHAP.

SerpentKing101

10-18-2004, 10:15 AM

I think my E-Maxx is the strangest on the planet...

the old hop-ups done to my E are cosmetic (H2 SUT shell, Road Rage and Velocity 6 40 series, and spinners)

My E will eat through a 3300 and a 4 year old 1500 pack in 5 minutes at WOT in second gear. It will also last 5 minutes with new 3300s when im just playing with the spinners in first.

When finished blasting up and down my street, my EVX is slightly warmer than it is when i took it out my room. You can however, blister your hands if you touch the motors. The batteries are nice and toasty, just like when they come off the charger.

and finally...
my E does not warp the sliders at all. it does go through the drive yokes like a snotty-nosed kid at a candy store.

guver

10-18-2004, 11:55 AM

Hmm mine is a little different. It will last 5 minutes at wot in 2nd with 3300's at race speeds. If I just putts around it last 10-15. It twists sliders all the time and wears out yokes.

I've noticed same thing my evx is never hot , but my motors always are.

PS I don't understand this???? "a 3300 and a 4 year old 1500 pack in 5 minutes"

I just added 1 cell to mine and am going right now to try it.

metalry101

10-18-2004, 11:31 PM

I also heard that the SuperE can handle 16-18 cells, but that has not been confirmed yet.

According to Mtroniks it can only handle 12 cells I believe. I haven't used more than 12 on mine...

aknitroguy

10-22-2004, 08:24 PM

Hi,
I am building a "full race" emaxx and was wondering if anyone could point me towards any carbon fiber or graphite parts (chassis/shock towers) I am looking at the Xtreme racing lowered cg carbon chassis. I have the Mtroniks4 updated super E-truck, The package says 12 cells and a 15 turrn (550) motor limit.
Thank's in advance

Maxxcrazy

10-23-2004, 08:05 PM

I've never seen any carbon fiber shock towers. Just get some thin aluminum towers and you'll be fine.

metalry101

10-23-2004, 08:53 PM

If you're looking for the best racing setup, I would personally suggest the Pro-Line suspension. It's only 50 bux (at least it is at my shop), and I don't think you can beat it w/ anything less than a full on UE setup, but those are 300 plus bux last time I looked. Even if they have come down, I'd still suggest the Pro-Line. I ran it for 2 years and never broke a thing. I sold it w/ the T-Maxx that I had for a week, but I'll buy it again when I get the coin. It was awesome.

raptorridr660r

10-23-2004, 09:03 PM

I am getting my first E-Maxx through a trade to get into electric RCs, I have only ever had nitro, so I need a little help when it comes to a few things. I need to get some decent batteries and a charger. Where can I get decent assembled packs for a good price around 3000 to 3300mAh? I have looked on ebay and found alot of 7 cell 3000 pack you can get cheap, are they any good? Also whats a decent charger anymore? I would like to be able to charge 2 batteries at once if possible, but the charger doesn't have to be able to do it. I am thinking about these so far, Super brain 969 pro and Dynamite vision ultra. What do you E-maxx crazy people use?? Thanks guys...

metalry101

10-23-2004, 09:35 PM

Personally, I plan on getting an MRC Superbrain 969. Can't beat it for the price. As for the batteries, what's a decent price? I'd suggest either Pro Match Racing (http://www.promatchracing.com) or Hypercells (http://www.hypercells.com/index.html). I don't think you're going to beat either one of them for the price. Those are matched 3300's, which means the best cells on the market.

cr250

10-24-2004, 09:15 AM

For batteries GP 3300s are currently the best. SPC (http://specpointbatteries.com) sells matched and assembled battery packs for an E-Maxx. They call them Twin Maxx Pacs. I have a set and they run great, and you can't beat the price, $64.95 for a pair.

raptorridr660r

10-24-2004, 09:55 AM

Thanks guys, I willl order at least a pair of those GP3300, is there a decent cheap sports pack that will give decent run time just to mess around with so I don't have to constantly use the GPs?? I see the epic 3000 packs are cheap but I hear alot of bad about them.

metalry101

10-24-2004, 01:31 PM

Those are some really really low voltage numbers for matched packs. I guess they'd be fine for the average user...but those are really low for matched 3300's, so I wouldn't push those packs too hard (i.e. Overgeared w/ bigger tires or something). I don't think they're junk by any means, but they gotta save money somewhere, and they're doing it by making those packs out of the weakest 3300's that they get. As for the Epic's...they're not bad packs really, but they cant' touch matched packs. I have a pair of Dynafun 3000's that I run, and a pair of matched 2400's, and the difference between the two is ridiculous. The Dynafun's work fine...and if my truck wasn't overgeared (20 tooth pinions), they'd probably stand up to the abuse a little better, but for me...matched is the only way to go.

raptorridr660r

10-24-2004, 02:00 PM

Which ones are rally low voltage? the SPC? Which of these above it the place to buy from? So far I like Promatch.....

metalry101

10-24-2004, 02:09 PM

The SPC are really low voltage compared to other matchers...that kind of voltage is a TON more than you'd ever see out of an Epic 3000 at a 30 amp load. As for who's the best...I've never bought anything from SPC or Hypercells. I did get some packs from Pro-Match a while back and have been very happy. They make quality products, offer them at excellent prices, and stand behind their products. I don't know if they're the best...but they are a solid company, and that's probably who I'd go w/. I think you'll be happy w/ any of them, but I'd personally buy the Pro-Match ones. It'll be more expensive through them, especially if you get them to assemble the packs (you'll be looking at 80 bux shipped probably), but I think it's worth it. It would only be about 5 dollars more than the other two after they tack on shipping charges.

cr250

10-24-2004, 04:29 PM

metalry101 - You state "The SPC are really low voltage compared to other matchers...I've never bought anything from SPC or Hypercells." Then what qualifies you to judge SPC’s (http://www.specpointbatteries.com) batteries and their shipping policies? I personally use SPC batteries in everything from my 1/12th scale, Rev 4 to my E-Maxx and I never had a problem. While racing my Maxx this past summer I had people ask me if I was running a brushless system. I told them "no, just the stock motors with 19 tooth pinion gears." I know my Maxx is not as fast as it would be with a brushless setup, but it was fast enough to stand out from the rest and be noticed. I was running SPC, 1.140-1.149 volt, Twin Maxx Pacs. The very same batteries that you claim are "low voltage." SPC offers Twin Maxx Pacs in every voltage range they have available, but they feel the 1.140-1.149 range offers the best value for the average Maxx owner. I agree! It's unfortunate you felt the need to judge a good company based upon nothing more than your own ignorance.

metalry101

10-24-2004, 05:51 PM

Look at the numbers...SPC= 1.140 - 1.149...Pro-Match=1.160 -1.164 for their cheapest packs. Those are numbers from each of their respective sites. Ignorance? No, I just read the numbers and see that no one offers 1.140 range cells any more. GP makes the cells so well that they don't have to offer matched packs that low, they can offer higher numbers for less and save the cells that test in the lower ranges for non-matched stick packs and the like. I'm not saying SPC's cells are bad...but those numbers are lower than the matcher's I've seen. Maybe their matching methods are a little different and that's what causes it, maybe they're using the lower end GP cells for their cheap Maxx Packs because they can't offer them that cheap on the higher voltage cells and still turn a profit. I don't know...I don't care. Pro-Match uses industry standard matching procedures, so I know their numbers aren't high, SPC's are low for matched GP3300's. I've purchased Pro-Match packs in the past and been very pleased, and I plan on doing it again sometime in the near future. I never said those SPC's were low voltage packs..just lower voltage than Pro-Match's lowest grade matched packs. Everything is relative...even voltage. And as for shipping...most companies seem to charge about 7-10 dollars for shipping. Say they charge 5 bux, then it's a 10 dollar difference between the Pro-Match cells and the SPC cells, still not a lot. The point being...both are good matchers..I would personally go w/ Pro-Match.

cr250

10-24-2004, 08:25 PM

You say no one else offers 1.140-1.149 matched packs. So what!! SPC is still offering a great value for the E-Maxx owners. If I were looking for low cost batteries for my E-Maxx I'd rather buy GP 3300s (even if they are only 1.14s) that are matched and assembled with quality battery bars, than some stick pack with unmatched cells in it. SPC matches and sells only the latest RC-grade, GP 3300 cells and they utilize brand new Completion Electronics 4/35 matchers. They grade their cells using the same industry-standard parameters as most matchers, 6 amp charge, 30 amp discharge, 0.9 volt cutoff, 5000 sec. voltage read cutoff. Are you certain that GP's quality control is so good they don't have any 1.14s to offer? Talk directly to any matcher and you'll find out that you are wrong.

These are the facts:
Fact 1: All GP cells come from the same place.
Fact 2: No one makes those GP cells better just by touching them.
Fact 3: What's most important to the battery consumer is honest cell numbers and a good value for the money spent.
Fact 4: You did say SPC's cells are low voltage; quote "The SPC are really low voltage."
Fact 5: A combination of serious counseling and intense medication can probably help you with your denial/delusional issues.
Fact 6: Due to Fact 5 this conversation is over!

fuzzy2133

10-24-2004, 10:14 PM

"a battery pack is only as good as the worst cell." once all the cells are matched then the pack becomes better than an unmatched pack as far as most of us are concerned.

attic

10-25-2004, 06:13 PM

what about ballistic arent those good packs i know there are more exspensive but you get what you pay for, atleast in most cases. i bought a pair of umatched packs ($97) from them and they seem to be holding up pretty well as far as i can tell they are almost as good as when i bought them. they may not have quite the punch and runtime but considering they have about 50+ charges on them i would have to say they were a great investment and yesterday i was driving in 2nd gear wot for bout 10-15 minutes if that means anything.

metalry101

10-26-2004, 01:12 AM

I've heard good things about Ballistic packs. I think they're overpriced...but yes..you do typically get what you pay for...and I have heard good things about their packs.

Oh ya...bought a Twin Force today...hopefully it will be fun! I put the Kyosho motors in my E-Maxx Saturday...drove it yesterday...got HUUUUUUGE air...broke the rear bulkheads on my Maxx...I think I need to get aluminum...again. Hopefully the TF will be even faster...cuz it's lotz lighter...so it's gonna get overgeared even more than the Maxx...

sorbee711

10-26-2004, 02:33 PM

I've got some 7-cell assembled unmatched packs from Pro-Match and can't complain so far. Good price and they've been good so far. So good they destroyed my spur gear because it was too loose (I think - it may have been too tight, not sure 100%).

attic

10-26-2004, 04:10 PM

yeah ballistic is a little pricey but there matched packs have 1.17v per cell.

Bta

10-30-2004, 12:37 AM

[/IMG][IMG]HI, I'm new to the site, and I do own several e-maxx's. As soon as I figure out this site I'll show you some pic's. For some reason I can not get my pics to post. No mater what format I use, it keeps saying that the file is to big. What's going on? And how do I fix it? :confused:

Bta

10-30-2004, 11:58 AM

dscf0018.jpeg [/IMG][IMG]HI, I'm new to the site, and I do own several e-maxx's. As soon as I figure out this site I'll show you some pic's. For some reason I can not get my pics to post. No mater what format I use, it keeps saying that the file is to big. What's going on? And how do I fix it? :confused:
Ok I think that I have figured it out. This is my custom E. Actualy the only thing E is the trany case. Show ya more later.dscf0017.jpg

Bta

10-30-2004, 12:04 PM

dscf0018.jpeg
Ok I think that I have figured it out. This is my custom E. Actualy the only thing E is the trany case. Show ya more later.dscf0017.jpg
Here's one more.

cheerwhiner

11-09-2004, 08:11 PM

I am now an owner of an EMaxx. Won it on ebay should get it soon.

So happy :D

metalry101

11-09-2004, 09:38 PM

Cool, cool...anyone know where I can get a replacement chassis? I need the Bombproof Products Torpedo chassis, but just the lexan. I managed to break that action (impressive eh?). I tried e-mailing the guy, but he just stopped replying. He asked me to send him some pictures of the breakage, so I did, but I haven't gotten a reply, and it's been like 3 weeks. I tried e-mailing him again but he still ignores me. Oh well...I just won't buy his **** anymore. Anyone know someone else who makes a chassis that will fit it? I'm probably gonna get one made locally...but I wanna see what other options I've got.

TeamMishap

11-12-2004, 09:57 AM

I think there is a big RC thing going on this week. I ordered a motor from Fine Design that I need to return. After no returns of emails, I called and found out there is a race. Maybe the Bombproof guy is just on vacation.

I've always had good customer service with Bombproof. When you do get in touch with him, he may even give you a discount on the Lexan piece. Try calling the phone number on the website.

Cool, cool...anyone know where I can get a replacement chassis? I need the Bombproof Products Torpedo chassis, but just the lexan. I managed to break that action (impressive eh?). I tried e-mailing the guy, but he just stopped replying. He asked me to send him some pictures of the breakage, so I did, but I haven't gotten a reply, and it's been like 3 weeks. I tried e-mailing him again but he still ignores me. Oh well...I just won't buy his **** anymore. Anyone know someone else who makes a chassis that will fit it? I'm probably gonna get one made locally...but I wanna see what other options I've got.

SerpentKing101

11-12-2004, 09:38 PM

I was staring at my E-Maxx yesterday. Then a brilliant idea hit me like a Revo WOT into my ankle.

If the steering and shifting servos were rotated 90 degrees on the chassis, wouldnt that allow a 7-cell side x side pack to fit? It would most definetely open up space so that us stick pack guys wont be scraping the lining off the wires.

Somebody make a chassis like that and let me beta-test it for ya. :cool:

fuzzy2133

11-12-2004, 10:06 PM

That is not a bad idea, now you are making me wish I mill or better yet a CNC mill.

Lonely

11-14-2004, 01:58 PM

:cool: Here's one that may get a few backs up, my kids originally wanted a TXT then changed their minds and went for an E Maxx, I bought a TXT off E Bay with M Troniks Super E truck esc, 2 X LRP 17x2 motors and LRP 3300 six cell stick packs.
So today my boy and I were out together and the aforementioned TXT totally thrashed his stock E Maxx, climbing, wheelying, speed, jumping you name it, totally awesome. Well it was until the plastic axle guard broke, still a set of aluminium ones now being ordered.
Guess what, my boy now wishes he'd got the TXT! :cool:

Saboteur

11-17-2004, 05:19 PM

Saboteur

11-17-2004, 05:34 PM

Here is where I'll be running sometimes. Minus the snow.

guver

11-18-2004, 03:17 AM

Megazone23

11-18-2004, 11:29 PM

I was looking at the Novak website and saw that they have a new ESC for the E-Maxx. It's the Super Duty XR High Voltage ESC.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LNJAC0&P=G

Specs from the TH website:

Voltage input: 6 to 14 cells (7.2-16.8v) On-resistance:0.0011 ohms
BEC voltage: 6.0v/3Amps Weight: 4.03oz (114 g)
Maximum current: (forward) 400 amps (reverse) 180 amps
Case size: 1.75" x 2.17" x 0.85" RX wire length: 10.5"
Batt wire length: 7" (both) Motor wire: 13"
Wire Guage: 14 yellow (+), blue (-)
Single motor limits @ 6 cells: None
Single motor limits @ 10 12 or 14 cells: None (550 size only)
Dual motor limits @ 6 cells: 10 turns
Dual motor limits @ 10 cells: None (550 size only)
Dual motor limits @ 12 and 14 cells: 12 turns (550 size only)

tadium54

11-19-2004, 03:48 AM

Well after being convinced, I'm gonna go try an Emaxx. I like it because I can use it at my sister's current house and new location they are moving too. Also, after doing some research and seeing test runs, the Tmaxx, Revo, and Savage only topped about 35-38mph. I figured if the Emaxx can touch 30mph easily and have quicker acceleration and longer run time with the stock motors, I'll give that a try. After running with the stockers, maybe slap a pair of Emaxx wild motors in there. Atleast I know I'm running clean, easy, convenience of electric and not disturb the people in other quiet areas. I especially want to run at my sister's house before she moves. Tons of stuff to tackle!!! :D

The wild motors, such as trinity and ready are not your friends. they have a tendency to burn up after a few runs or so I hear. If you have to go with them though, Id go with the reedys-they seem to be the lesser of 2 evils. Some things to consider- alum. bulks, alum. skids and titanium hinge pins should be all you need to make the stocker more stronger without adding too much weight.(these are the things I broke the most when i got mine)

Lonely

11-19-2004, 02:14 PM

:confused: Is the new Novak esc waterproof? It's great having an all singing all dancing esc but what use is it if at the first sign of water it goes pop!
At this time of year even the long grass is very wet here in the U.K., my son has the stock Novak esc in his E Maxx as it came with the truck. I run an M Troniks, Sonik 4 Super E truck esc in my TXT1 and it does everything the Novak does but is waterproof :cool:

metalry101

11-19-2004, 11:29 PM

No...there's a big difference between the Novak and the Mtronics. I have the Mtronics, it's not very smooth, and the current limiter in reverse is annoying as all hell. Even the EVX is better than it in those ways. The only way in which the Mtronics is better is water resistance IMO. I would love to see the Novak waterproof, because I think that is it's only flaw (well, it is kind of expensive). The Mtronics is ridiculously overpriced for what it is. Sure it's nice to have a waterproof ESC in your Maxx (and to swap into my Twin Force as well), but quality is nice too, and even the EVX is better than the Mtronics in that IMO. I don't think the Mtronics is a terrible ESC, but I haven't been impressed w/ it either. It's waterproof, that's about the extent of it's coolness. It's and odd shape which makes it hard to mount, it's not very smooth, and the current limiter in reverse drives me nuts. For 150 bux I expect a helluva lot more than what I got, ya know? Not trying to flame you, I'm glad you're happy w/ your Mtronics, but IMO, it's not worth the price.

Oh...and as for skids...no aluminum. Don't even think about it. Just buy the Hardcore Titanium ones. You can either keep buying aluminum, or you can buy the Ti ones once. I would also suggest the Pro-Line suspension kit, cuz it's a lot tougher and better handling than the stock setup. Pro-Line Mulchers are the best tires on the planet, so that's what I would suggest. Oh...and for better motors, don't waste your time w/ the Trinity's or the Reedy's. Just buy the Kyosho motors from the Twin Force. They're a lot cheaper, they're a lot better, and they look better IMO. Heat sink 'em like crazy and gear it up. Run 14 cells and call it a day. I run the Kyosho's w/ 12 cells (matched), tonz of heat sinks (Trinity motor plate and Asc. motor heat sinks), and 22/64 gearing. It's NUTS fast.

If you're really looking for crazy speed, buy the Novak HV brushless system, if they ever release the damn thing that is.

Megazone23

11-20-2004, 02:11 AM

The new Novak ESC seems to be better about moisture proofing:

Built-in Thermal Overload Protection and strategically placed gaskets throughout the ESC make the Super Duty XR extremely dependable. While Thermal Overload Protection provides extra safety and protection against thermal overloads, gaskets around all the MOSFET openings, One-Touch Set-Up Button opening, and wire openings help provide added protection against dirt and water.

This is directly from the Novak website: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/super_dutyxr/super_dutyxr.html

I'm feeling the call of the E-Maxx, which is good for everyone else, because that means that shortly after I commit and buy one, Traxxas will inevitably have some major announcement like an electric Revo. Such is the way of things.

I've been surfing eBay looking for a good deal on a used E-Maxx, but those suckers seem to hold their value better than a Toyota! Even the ones that are just stock with no extras seem to be going for just slightly under $300, so I'm thinking I may just go to Tower Hobbies and order one there.

metalry101

11-20-2004, 02:21 AM

Want mine? I need cash, and I've decided to build my Twin Force instead of my E-Maxx (I've built the E-Maxx before, it's awesome, but the Twin is new, and I've had the Maxx for like 3 years). LMK if you're interested and I'll get you some details.

Megazone23

11-20-2004, 05:19 PM

Hehe, as it turns out, I just won an auction for a practically new E-Maxx. Body is still in the bag, and all the plastic looks pristine in the pictures. Got it for $205! :D

It doesn't have many mods, just motor heat sinks, and what appear to be blue Monster Clawz wheels with Bowtie tires. He still has the stock wheels but no tires, so I'll probably get some skins that are a little more appropriate for backyard/street bashing.

So what are critical things to upgrade? With this truck, I'll probably take the approach of upgrade as it breaks rather than go apeshyt like I did with my Evader! lol

Some of the things that immediately come to mind are:
- servo guard
- 8.4V batts (I saw some 3000 mAh batts on eBay being sold for like $40/pr)
- steel CVDs (f/r/c)

I can't wait until it gets here -- unfortunately with the holiday next week, I probably won't get it until the following week. :(

Lonely

11-20-2004, 06:44 PM

:) Metalry101, It just goes to show how thick I am because I had'nt even noticed the bit about reverse with the M Troniks but now you come to mention it, it is a bit slow in that department compared to my boy's E Maxx.
The skid plates your refering to are presumably for the E Maxx are they?
I just bought my son some nice blue GPM alloy ones for his E but if he destroys these where can I find the Hardcore ones, do you have a link for them? Also do they do them for the TXT?
Last thing, after my TXT thrashed his E Maxx my boy feels the need for more speed and I was going to get him the Trinity Wild Maxx motors. Are the Kyoshos 550's and do you know the spec of them?
Sorry to ask so many questions but we are quiet new to this truck lark, cheers. :)

tadium54

11-20-2004, 07:55 PM

Again stay away from the trinity wild maxx motors- they have a tendency to burn up after a few runs. Look at either Hacker or Lehner BL. If worse comes to worse, you could consider getting a high torque stock motor or possibly a high turn mod motor and trying that.

Is he running 12 or 14 cells?

Megazone23

11-20-2004, 09:24 PM

Lonely, the Twin Force motors are 550s. You can get them at Tower Hobbies for $17.99 ea.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGD7&P=7

The Kyosho motors are 27 turn versus the E-Maxx's 23 turn stockers, so I'm not sure if that will require different gearing.

Saboteur

11-21-2004, 12:35 AM

Anyone tried a pair of Speedgems 17T in their Emaxx? How are they compared to the stock Titans? I'm thinking it would be best to just get upgrades and stay with the stock motors and after other things, get the Novak BL system.

fuzzy2133

11-21-2004, 03:05 AM

I have the novak BL system on order, I hope it is as good as the other 2 BL system setups novak has out.

Soya v1.1

11-21-2004, 01:02 PM

I'll always use Hacker :cool:

Lonely

11-21-2004, 02:36 PM

:) Thanks for the advice I'll steer clear of the Wild Maxx motors and maybe treat him to a brushless system. I've only ever heard of the Novak ones, who sells the others refered to???
Also where can I get these Hardcore titanium skid plates???
Cheers. :)

Maxxcrazy

11-21-2004, 02:44 PM

Heres a vid of my Maxx mud bogging
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=43326
Put RC P ics in (without the spaces)

Saboteur

11-21-2004, 09:14 PM

Hey I noticed you are in connecticut Maxxcrazy. What part? JW.

tadium54

11-22-2004, 06:37 PM

Megazone23

11-22-2004, 11:13 PM

I just picked up two Johnson 550 motors on eBay for $9 bucks each plus $6 shipping. From the specs the seller posted, it looks like a pretty good performance improvement over the Titans. He's even including capacitors; all you need is to solder them on with the wire leads, and install it. The shafts are even pre-flattened for the pinion set screws.

Here's a link to an auction ending tomorrow:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34058&item=5936679477&rd=1

starluckrc

11-23-2004, 08:25 PM

Check the brushless forum for more info on E-Maxx brushless setups and reputable vendors.

cheerwhiner

11-24-2004, 09:29 AM

any real info on those johnson motors? sometimes "Tests" are not always right...... just wondering.

Megazone23

11-24-2004, 11:59 AM

I haven't found a whole lot, but without the actual motor designation, it's kinda tough. I did find out that Johnson 550s are commonly used in marine RC applications (boats, subs, etc.). When I get them, I'll post any more information that I can get off of the cans. I figure that in the worst case, they're no better than the Titans, and I have a spare set for $25. Best case, they perform as advertised and skunk the Titans, in which case the bet pays off.

Once I get everything and get it installed, I'll make some runs with the ole GPS strapped to it to get relative max speed comparisons.

Maxxcrazy

11-24-2004, 05:14 PM

Hey I noticed you are in connecticut Maxxcrazy. What part? JW.

South Windsor

Lonely

11-25-2004, 05:32 PM

:cool: Well I out the BL idea aside due to lack of funds at present so instead I fitted 2 Fireball 17x2 motors and 13 tooth pinions to the boy's E Maxx. Now it wheelies straight off the mark and still has good top end.
Originally fitted 15 tooth pinions but these seemed to cause the motors to run a bit too hot, i.e. you could feel the heat through the body shell when I stopped.
He is presently running LRP 3500 6 cell packs but these will be upgraded to 7 cell packs when funds allow. :cool:

fuzzy2133

11-27-2004, 11:18 AM

hey, could some one tell me if the stock E with 12cells will wheelie in 2nd gear from a dead stop or a slow rolling speed? I put the traxxas lightened gears in it and now it wheelies a bit quicker and I can not seem to remember it doing this before.

Megazone23

11-27-2004, 01:51 PM

The E-Maxx arrived today! :D

Is the throttle response a little twitchy or is it simply the difference between controlling a single motor single batter Evader vs. a double motor double battery E-Maxx?

Also, the drivetrain seems to be a bit noisy, so I guess I'll be taking it apart to make sure everything is on the up and up. Any recommendations on things to check?

4wdmt

11-27-2004, 08:05 PM

fuzzy2133, usually, mine with a freshly charged packs, it wheelies even on 2nd gear (even backflips sometimes on high bite surface).

Megazone23, yup, you gotta have to get used to 2-550 motor / 2 battery pack power. 32 pitch are kinda noisy, same with my txt before. just check the pinion and spur mesh while you are at it, oh, make sure the esc/motor connectors are snugly fit. have fun.

Saboteur

11-27-2004, 09:35 PM

Megazone, how do you like the truck? Any pics?

Megazone23

11-28-2004, 12:38 AM

Sadly enough, I got the truck and only had enough time to mount the wheels and slap some batteries in to make sure that it ran. It'll take some getting used to the throttle. I'm used to my Evader easing on the power, but the Maxx seems to be kinda abrupt -- finesse vs. power, I suppose.

Has anyone tried replacing the 32 pitch spur/pinions with 48s? I wonder if that would make things a little smoother.

The only after-market parts it has are some wider offset wheels with Maxx Bowties and motor heat sinks. Otherwise, it's pretty much bone stock at this point, so pictures probably are a waste of bandwidth at this point.

I do have some Maxx Mashers on order to spoon onto the stock wheels that came with it, which I'll probably run more than the Bowties, since I usually run on the street and through the yards. I also ordered a pair of Johnson 550 motors that are supposed to spank the Titans, but I'll probably wait to install them until I have a good feel for how the Maxx handles stock.

I'm also trying to lay my hands on a VW Touarage Paris-Dakar Racer body just to give it a little personality of its own. Other than that, my plan is to upgrade as I break, so hopefully I won't have to do too much very soon. :)

I'll give a full report tomorrow when I have a chance to run a set of batts thru it.

Megazone23

11-28-2004, 01:30 PM

Okay, last night I re-set the gear mesh -- it was a little loose, but it's still noisy, so that's just part of the deal as 4wdmt said. I just got back in from running the first set of batts thru it, and all I can say is "Wow!"

Even with the Bowties in tall grass, it would wheelie from standing still. My neighbor was out mowing his lawn, so I let him take it for a spin. He has a lamp post in his yard, and as these immovable objects do, it lured the Maxx right to it. BAM! Head on collision with the base of the lamp at pretty much full speed. The impact was sufficient to pop off one of the glass panes surrounding the top of the lamp (fortunately it landed on the grass and didn't break). I checked the Maxx, and other than a slight indentation in the front bumper, you'd never know it hit anything.

E-Maxx 1, Yard 0

And the 4WD...gotta love it! I'm so used to my 2WD Evader sliding around turns, and the E-Maxx just goes right where you tell it -- very little steering correction needed. It even went straight into the ditch because I lost sight of it behind a tree, and when I found it again, I was a bit concerned to find it standing in water almost up to the hubs. With as gentle a throttle finger as I could manage, I was able to crawl it out of the ditch without any mishap! :D

E-Maxx 2, Yard 0

I think the most impressive thing, though, was when I ran it across a dry section of the ditch. When it came up on the other side, the rear wheels touched down first, and when I put on the throttle again, it actually wheelied and flipped itself over.

E-Maxx 2, Yard 1 -- Final

I definitely need to invest in more battery packs! I have a feeling my Evader is going to get a little dusty over the next several weeks.

One thing I did notice is that the clip-on motor heat sinks came loose during all this bashing. Is there an easy way to secure these better to the cans short of just gluing them in place?

Well, I'm off to charge the batts once they've cooled off! Cheers!

<3 hours later>

Damn this truck is fun, although that all almost came to a premature end. I was hauling across the yard, across the street, through the ditch, and....uh oh....SPLASH! That's right...ditch was full. When I got to the truck, it was sitting on the far side of the ditch with it's rear in the water, so I immediately killed the power and unplugged the batts. After a liberal drying with paper towels and compressed air, I have confirmed that it lives! :o

I guess I'll wait for things to dry up around here more before I take it out again.

4wdmt

11-28-2004, 06:12 PM

seems you had a blast with your E. wait till you tried 7 cell. anyway, the only downside i see with the E is with battery usage. you really need good sets of battery for it, and of course a good charger to take care of your investment. hmmm, i was wondering, how long can 3600nimh last in one bashing session.

Megazone23

11-28-2004, 09:23 PM

Here's a question for you more hardcore tuners out there. I noticed that it appears that the stock motors have a capacitor (or what I assume is a capacitor) soldered at each of the tabs and then soldered to the can. From what I've been reading, you should also have a 3rd capacitor soldered to the positive tab on one side and the negative tab on the other. Why isn't there one on the stock motors, or is it hidden inside? Just curious.

Saboteur

11-29-2004, 12:34 AM

Cool Megazone. How did ya like the speed? For a big truck I guess the 25-29mph must be fast since I hear the acceleration is really quick.

Megazone23

11-29-2004, 08:55 AM

Man, this bad boy is wicked fast, and that's just stock running my Radio Shack 3000mAh NiMH batts! Now my Evader ST was capable of 26mph according to my eTrex GPS unit, so it was really quick, but the more impressive thing about the Maxx is the gobs of torque. I let my neighbor bash it around his yard, and he kept saying, "Dude, you need a wheelie bar!" :D

Speaking of wheelie bars, any recommendations? I remember seeing one in a magazine that incorporated a top A-arm and a shock that looked interesting.

To tell you the truth, almost the entire time I had it in 1st gear. Even when I did pop it in 2nd, it was still pulling the front wheels off the ground. I also thought it was cool that when I put it through a speed run on the street, it ran the entire length with the front pitched upward, kind of like a speedboat. I'm gonna figure out a way to strap my GPS unit to it to get a "true" top speed.

Saboteur

11-29-2004, 02:06 PM

Cool. Strap the ol GPS on it and see what it records.

Milesdavis314

11-29-2004, 05:57 PM

Ok batts question... Which is better 7 cell 3000's or 6 cell 3300's ... What is the bast deal for the money (or is something else better) and whats with this....http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=272

seems a little cheap...thanks for the help

Jim

Megazone23

11-29-2004, 07:59 PM

Sab, sorry but I only had time tonight to make a quick test run to confirm that the Maxx suffered no long term ill effects due to its unscheduled run through the water-filled ditch. I also confirmed that from full speed in second gear, even after letting off the throttle first, you can cause it to do a front flip by standing on the brakes.

Miles, the answer to your question is "it depends". If I'm wrong, someone please correct me. Assuming I understood everything I've read so far, the 7 cell 3000mAh setup will get you more power and top end speed due to the increased voltage being supplied by the extra 7th cell. The 6 cell 3300mAh won't be as powerful or fast as the 7 cell setup, but should get you additional run-time due to the increased capacity (3300mAh vs 3000) of the cells, all other things being equal.

So what's best depends on what you're after. If you're after more power and speed, then get the additional cell. If you want run time, get the additional capacity.

If you want both, get some 7 cell 3300mAh batts. :D I don't know what your budget is, but do a search on eBay using "8.4V 3300" for the keywords. I've seen a seller, "OnlyBatteryPacks", who has two 8.4V (7-cell) 3300mAh batts configured for the E-Maxx, and I think it was $64 for the pair. That seems like a pretty good deal to me, considering my Radio Shack 3000mAh NiMHs were $25 each (plus tax) on sale. I think I may get a pair when my paycheck comes in.

Milesdavis314

11-29-2004, 08:36 PM

Thanks!

thanghoang

12-01-2004, 12:35 AM

Think of voltage as "electrical pressure"
mah = capacity.

The higher the voltage, the faster the discharge rate. The 7 cell packs provide more torque and top end speed because the battery is able to supply more current to the ESC at any given point. The downside is that you'll have less runtime.

Go for a set of GP3300's. The run relatively cool and can be charged at 5-6amps. I charge mine at 5 amps. The cheaper brand batts can't be charged at 5 amps. They have too much internal resistance, run hotter, and have a shorter lifespan. I have a pair of 1500 mah Duratrax Pirahna. The last about 5 minutes with me running constantly in 2nd gear at full speed. They are very hot afterwards due to the internal resistance. The GP's which run for about twice as long are just slightly warm to touch. The higher charge rate will give better performance as well.

I got mine from hypercells.com. Mike there was really nice with helping me figure out the best initial charge rates. Their prices for assembled GP's was the lowest that I found.

I got 2 7-cell packs. The torque and acceleration was absolutely insane!!! I'm not sure if I can go back to a set of 6 cell packs.

crawlermaxx

12-01-2004, 07:49 PM

fuzzy2133

12-01-2004, 10:11 PM

you may have a bad solder joint at one of the connectors you put on or a dead short somewhere. possible in the ESC if the wires got too hot during soldering the deans on.

thanghoang

12-01-2004, 10:33 PM

I have a problem. Yesterday I soldered on Deans connectors (had tamiya connectors on before) and now the plugs and wires heat up right as I plug in the battery. It didn't do this until I put on Deans connectors. I checked for any shorts and I made sure the wiring is correct. What could be the problem?

Are they nice and clean solder connections? A bad solder joint will create resistance and therefore heat at the connectors.

I have Deans plugs. I even converted some old packs to Deans. I run 3 pairs of batts consecutively. None of the connectors on the truck or batts get hot. One of the pairs are 7 cell GP3300's.

Megazone23

12-02-2004, 12:18 AM

One thing I read about soldering is that the soldered joint should be shiny. If it is a dull silver, then it's a bad joint and will be a source of high resistance. I think I read this on the Xtreme RC magazine website.

crawlermaxx

12-02-2004, 06:55 PM

it could be a bad solder. I have been soldering for over a year now though. I will resolder them and try it again.

Megazone23

12-02-2004, 09:25 PM

Okay, I finally just strapped my GPS to the rear body post crossbar and sent it on its merry way after charging the batteries. So stock with the Pro-Line Bowties mounted on the wide-offset Velocity 6 rims yielded a top speed of...

24.8 mph! :D

http://home.earthlink.net/~aywang67/images/E-Maxx/E-Maxx - Stock.jpg

I got the Johnson motors last night and had the capacitors and bullet connectors soldered on at the LHS (gotta love them!), so tomorrow I'll have comparative results for you on what performance improvement, if any, they provide.

crawlermaxx

12-03-2004, 12:07 AM

nice truck! I just have one plug to do left. It was a bad solder.

crawlermaxx

12-03-2004, 01:01 AM

The plug kept overheating so I took my EVX apart and used my multitester on it and the ok plug tested at 620 OHM's and the overheating one tested over 1500 OHM's. This isnt right. Maybe I should just go with a brushless setup. Obviously the solder isnt bad because the OHM readings are the same in the EVX and at the end of the deans plugs. What do you guys think of the Novak HV-Maxx bl system?

4wdmt

12-03-2004, 03:25 AM

Megazone, thats nice, actual reading. i really wonder if 7 cells can run up to 30. i can't estimate mine by just looking at it. please post your results with the johnsons motors.

maxx boy

12-03-2004, 08:37 AM

hi new ere
cant tell where to post on here hope i got it right :o ive got a standerd emaxx with a blue servo saver on it what other upgrades should i buy for some serious off roading just trashing it down the local bmx off road course :confused: i did have a b3 buggy but my needs excelled that car :D

thanks in advance for the help

:) jake :)

thanghoang

12-03-2004, 11:49 AM

Get a good set of batteries - GP3300's. I recently bought my first set. I got a pair of 7 cell packs from hypercells.com. Incredible acceleration and torque. The wheels go crazy!!!

For bashing, I wouldn't really get anything new until something breaks. Possibly some better shocks for handling the big jumps.

The batteries will make the biggest difference. Since I got mine, it's been a night and day difference in fun factor over the cheap packs. I can't recommend them enough.

Megazone23

12-03-2004, 04:25 PM

Well, I just mounted the Johnson motors, and I have to say that I was a little disappointed to find that they only achieved a top speed of 23.6 mph, which is 1.2 mph slower than the stock Titans. :( On the bright side, I at least know I have a decent pair of backup motors. Maybe I'll try mounting one in my Evader...

-------------------------------------

Okay, update time. I've found the Johnsons to be quite a bit torquier than the Titans. They easily pull wheelies in second. I also found that after running the batteries down fully, the motors were barely warm. I'm thinking that with either bigger pinions or a smaller spur, these motors will eventually smoke the Titans once I get the right gear ratio.

maxx boy

12-03-2004, 05:26 PM

cheers for the help i have some 3300 batts only 6 cell though is it realy worth getting some 7 celled ones :p

jake

Megazone23

12-03-2004, 05:32 PM

maxx boy, you might want to check the bottom of page 46 and the top of this page for the recent discussion on the benefits of 7 cells and capacity :)

maxx boy

12-03-2004, 06:02 PM

thanks ill take a look

also should i be useing 7.2v or 8.4v

Megazone23

12-03-2004, 06:36 PM

Well, the 6 cell batts are 7.2V and the 7 cell batts are 8.4V. So if you want the additional speed and power, then you'll want to go with the 7 cell setup (8.4V or 16.8V total).

FWIW, I find my 6 cell 3000mAh Radio Shack batts to be fun enough as it is, but I do plan on getting some 7 cell batts just to see what kind of performance increase the extra cell provides.

Saboteur

12-03-2004, 10:18 PM

Well looks as if I won't be getting the Emaxx....oh well.

Megazone23

12-04-2004, 12:16 AM

Bummer :(

maxx boy

12-04-2004, 02:48 PM

im going to get some 7 cell packs duz anybody know a site where they come pre assembeld

thanks

Lonely

12-04-2004, 03:43 PM

:cool: Maxx Boy, I don't know what sort of driving your doing but if you are doing a lot of rough stuff you may want to invest in a set of aluminium bash plates (front,rear & centre). My son broke his stock front one first time out when landing heavily on the front from a jump. He's only running 6 cell 3500 LRP batteries and a set of 6 cell GP 3300's together with two 17x2 Fireball motors fitted with 13 tooth pinions and he gets good performance and run time. I also bought and fitted a set of stainless screws for him as the first sign of dampness just about every screw on it went rusty!
Also I fitted him a set of Traxxas aluminium big bore shocks as the standard plastic ones leak like a sieve after a few jumps. There are plenty of fancier looking shocks out there but overall these are pretty damn good for the money. :cool:

Saboteur

12-05-2004, 12:50 AM

Bummer :(

Nothing wrong with the truck, but I just don't fancy the speed(out the box) and I dislike the way elecs just slow down when the battery level drops. Sure I can get some GP cells and some nice gear no problem, but I'm tied to nitro. Just love it and can't get enough. Honestly I'd be more happy with an MGT stock than compared to buying all sort of new elec gear on the E just to make it a "nitro killer". :p For kicks though, I may buy one for my sister. She hasn't mastered nitro yet.

thanghoang

12-05-2004, 08:00 PM

im going to get some 7 cell packs duz anybody know a site where they come pre assembeld

thanks

I got my 7 cell packs from hypercells.com. They easily had the cheapest set around. They are matched packs, assembled, and with the avg voltage rating of 1.16. The run time was slightly over 400 secs at a 30 amp draw. I can't say for sure because I don't have them in front of me right now. They are great batts and their prices are the best around. I got my batts in less than a week.

They come assembled in the configuration like Traxxas recommends.
http://www.traxxas.com/support/troubleshooting/trouble_imgs/7cell/part1/bp_065.jpg

Do yourself a favor. Get a set of velcro straps (I bought the gorrillamaxx.com straps). Then ask Mike there to build them like this:

http://fusionbatteries.biz/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/emaxxpaxxZAP.jpg

The straps applying pressure to all 7 batts will provide a much better hold on them and prevent them from getting thrashed around. I had the standard 7 cell Emaxx hump configuration and both 7th cells broke off. Luckliy it was only the glue joints and I was able to "twist" the batts around to get the same configuration above. I'm sure Mike at hypercells will build it the way you want. He can also put connectors on for you.

cr250

12-05-2004, 11:41 PM

SPC (http://www.specpointbatteries.com) sells matched and assembled pairs of GP 3300s. They call them Twin Maxx Pacs. I raced them this past summer with great results. I removed the shift servo and locked the tranny in 2nd gear. I raced the truck using the stock motors and 19 tooth pinion gears. Set up this way my Maxx will easily pull 2nd gear wheelies, even as it nears the end of the discharge cycle. I can't wait until next summer for more off-road fun!

cheerwhiner

12-06-2004, 08:01 PM

Got a new emaxx today. Only ran for a battery pack. nice.

well back to studying for final exams (yes seriously)

but tomorrow if it doesn't rain after 3pm............!!!!!!!!!!

Quinton

12-06-2004, 08:31 PM

Did you break in your motors first? That's always a good idea to seat the brushes

Milesdavis314

12-06-2004, 08:58 PM

Hey guys... I got my E-Maxx a little while ago and i wanna put some hop ups into it...I think i want to upgrade teh suspension and maybe soem new tire... What are some good hop-ups to start with?

Thanks

cheerwhiner

12-06-2004, 11:23 PM

how should I break them in? I have never bought a ready to run............... do I need to remove them or just run it slowly?

guver

12-06-2004, 11:58 PM

too late just run it now.

Quinton

12-07-2004, 08:44 AM

Not too late (I doubt anyway) depends on how they look. Run them on 4 cells or run them under water.

maxx boy

12-07-2004, 09:45 AM

thanks for all the help you guys

lonely
thanghoang
cr250
jake

cheerwhiner

12-07-2004, 01:28 PM

note to self...... emaxx is not a touring car, will not turn on a dime :D

i have rolled it over about 20 times now........... nothing broken or anything. I love having a field 50 yards from my house!

But I have been racing a mini T and a 1/10 scale indoors on a small carpet track, and man this is a looooooooooot different. I used to have a savage a long time ago, and it takes getting used to not flipping it over or pulling massive wheelies with it.

This is one traxxas vehicle i certainly recommend. NO mess, just have good batteries!

thanghoang

12-07-2004, 05:16 PM

Bta

12-07-2004, 09:31 PM

Good batteries are definitely the key. The relatively short run times can be a bummer (compared to charge times). However, the lack of a maintenance and fiddling required to just get it running makes it a great truck to own.

I think I may get a TMaxx still though. Maybe not this Christmas but the one after. I would get the Tmaxx and put all my hopups on the TMaxx. I would then have a pimpin' TMaxx with a great stock Emaxx. I was thinking I would gear the Emaxx way down for my son or daughter to play with.

Not sure yet. Nothing beats the Emaxx on 14 cells for all out no maintenance, high torque bashing fun !!!
Buy an american CNC machining T max upper chassis. Then moter & mounts, and a T maxx tranny. Put it on your E maxx for an instant T. I believe you would need T maxx center CVD's other than that everything else is the same. It would also give you a chance to get a bigger nitro engine.

Megazone23

12-07-2004, 11:18 PM

Okay, I've discovered that the previous owner of my E-Maxx mounted the tires on the wheels without removing the chrome from the rim's bead channels. So here's the big question -- can I just re-glue the tires, or are they basically shot at this point? I think I already know the answer, but I figured I'd throw it out to the jury.

Quinton

12-07-2004, 11:20 PM

Just push on them with your hands and if you can break them open some just squirt some more glue in there. Not a big deal.

Megazone23

12-07-2004, 11:25 PM

Will the old CA that's dried to the tire bead allow the new CA to bond properly to the rim? Or should I use some acetone to remove it first?

Quinton

12-07-2004, 11:33 PM

If it were me I wouldn't try to remove it, I would just add some more glue. I've glued, removed and re-glued many tires/wheels with no problems.

One of the best things you could do to improve your Maxx would be to buy new (lighter and grippier) tires and some offset wheels (for added stability). You would get crazy wheelies and your batts would probably last longer since they would be moving much less rotational mass.
I've got lots of sets of wheels/tires for my T-Maxx, Savage and Rustler and I REALLY like my IMEX Baja Dawg's. Just thought I would let ya know since you seem to be new here.

Megazone23

12-07-2004, 11:38 PM

Thanks for the advice -- it's greatly appreciated. I've only recently entered the RC world -- bought an Evader ST back in June and then picked up the E-Maxx last week on eBay.

Actually, it has aftermarket wheels and tires right now. They're the Pro-Line Bowties, and they're mounted on Velocity 6 wide offset rims. The previous owner just glued the tires on without removing the chrome from the rims first. I guess I'll just re-glue them tomorrow, since you seem to have had success with doing that.

I also just got in some of the new RPM StableMaxx Monster Spiders in chrome blue with a set of Pro-Line Maxx Mashers. I'll be mounting those later this week once I get a chance to trim the foams a little to get them to fit inside the tires.

Quinton

12-07-2004, 11:48 PM

The Velocity 6's have the chrome removed inside there (where you can't really see now) for glueing, so don't worry about that. He probably just didn't glue them well enough. Sometimes I don't either so I just push them back and "fill in the holes" and let dry overnight. Use appropriate glue!
The bowties REALLy grip on grass and hard dirt but wear quickly on the street.

Did it come with some good expensive batts? That makes a HUGE difference in electrics. I use to run e, but came across a SWEET deal on a T-Maxx and traded my e-Stampede for it and I've been hooked since. I even bought another e used one time and had it on ebay with 2 days.

Can it handle (2) 7 cell packs? 7 cells are a blast. Does it have a metal gear steering servo yet?

Quinton

12-07-2004, 11:50 PM

Don't trim the foams, they will fit nicely. Masher tires are awesome for bashin!

Megazone23

12-08-2004, 08:45 AM

Actually one of the tires came completely off the rim, and I looked and verified that the chrome is, in fact, in the bead channels. :( I have thin CA glue from when I bought new rims/tires for my Evader, so I'm set there. I considered just getting some new tires, but since I primarily run on both grass and the street, it didn't really make sense because I already have the Mashers.

As for the foams, I already trimmed two of them, but just on the inner edges, because when I test fit them on the rims, the tire beads didn't really want to stay put. They kept pushing out even after leaving the foams inside the tires over night. I only trimmed the very corners so they fit the profile a little better. I did this with my Evader, and it seems to have worked quite well.

I don't have any 7-cells yet, but they are on the list. Right now I'm just bashing around with my Radio Shack 3000mAh NiMHs, and they seem to be holding up pretty well. Funny you should mention the metal gear steering servo, because I bought a Hitec 645MG this weekend. It has made a huge difference in handling.

Quinton

12-08-2004, 08:52 AM

That's odd, 'cause I just bought some velocity's for my savage tires and they didn't have any chrome in the bead. Maybe the earlier ones didn't?

Megazone23

12-08-2004, 09:00 AM

It's possible, or maybe these just slipped through qual control. Funny thing is that it was completely by accident that I found out that the tires weren't actually still one with the rim. They were still in the bead channel, but when I removed one wheel just to see what the new rim/tire combination looked like mounted, I felt the tire lift up. When I checked all four wheels, I found the rear two had dismounted themselves. I'm not sure how long they've been like this, but I can only imagine what the handling is going to be like once they're glued up again. :D

Megazone23

12-09-2004, 09:56 PM

Well, I did as you suggested and just put some more glue on it, and everything seems to be stuck back together again. And no, I didn't bother removing the chrome -- I was feeling really lazy! :D

Bta

12-11-2004, 12:35 PM

Can't get my picture file small enough to fit this site!

thanghoang

12-11-2004, 04:23 PM

My wife is pushing me to tell her what to get me for Xmas. So far I've got the UE widetrac suspension covered via "Secret Santa".

How are the Integy MSR5 shocks?

They seem to have pretty thick shafts at 3.5mm. I'm basically just bashing around with the truck around the street, yard, and park. Some rough handling but nothing suicidal with the truck.

I can get the shocks for $109 at rc-monster.com. The proline shocks are too expensive. I like the Integy's because I think they look really cool with the reservoir and anodized aluminum. I know the Traxxas Big Bores are probably just as good performers for about 60% of the price but they are really lame looking.

Unless the Integy's are real crap or the Big Bores perform vastly better, I'm leaning towards the Integy's. I'd just like to get the opinions of anyone who has used them.

Megazone23

12-11-2004, 05:14 PM

Bta, try cropping your picture to show just what you need it to, then try resizing the entire image to something smaller. If that doesn't work, you can try increasing the compression in the JPG settings. If you aren't using JPG, then you should.

As for shocks, I'm interested in what people are using, too. I'm thinking about replacing the stockers with aluminum threadeds and have also looked at the Integy MSR4's and 5's. I've also looked at the Powerline blue aluminum shocks ($100 for 8 at Tower).

Quinton

12-11-2004, 05:54 PM

I run 4 stockers and 4 hot bodies shocks on my T-Maxx.

Bta

12-12-2004, 12:26 PM

I just wanted to show off. As you can see, I'm just crazy about the E-maxx. On the left: Slightly hopped up E-maxx, Center: Totally cutom E-maxx, Right: Completely stock E-maxx. I also have a Traxxas 1/6 Monster Buggy, It's a lousey design but it go's the fastest. It's a better asphalt car than anything.
Race On Dudes!

Megazone23

12-12-2004, 01:06 PM

That's great, Bta! Can you post some more pics of your custom rig?

Bta

12-12-2004, 06:05 PM

Lower chassis, A arms, bulk heads, shock towers, skid plates, bumpers are American CNC Machining.
Blue iodized rear end housings, steering knuckels, upper chassis(4-6cell setup)
Full titanum roll cage
Hi-tec HS-5945MG shift servo
Airtronics 94358 steering servo
Varad under chassis blue led kit, fr & rr head, park, & brake light system, blue neon cable under body light.
Venom speed meter
Fullforce fr & rr sway bar system
4 Power stroke & 4 big bore shocks
Jumbo kong tires & wheels
Mip bones all over
Steel gears through out, including UltraMaxxed trans gears
64, 13's
Duel Novac Maxx Bl's (on order) their saying after the first of the year now.
All controlled by a JR pro R-1 trans.
Lots of weight plus lots of power. Hoping for the best!
Yea I know, More money than brain's! (it was my last horah)
God save me.