E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[bigair78]

Ive been doin some work on a friends e-maxx, which was bought from the lhs with a load of hopups such as twin monster 550 motors, rpm parts, roll cage and some huge dam tires. The problem is that when you get on the throttle it makes a popping noise when going, like a gear is slipping inside the tranny, and it has done this for a while. It is not the pinion/spur assembly, so im not sure if it is infact the tranny or the diffs? Hopefully someone else has had this problem and knows what it is, or someone has someone helpful adivce. Thanks for your time!

rcnitrodude999
Sounds like the spider gears aren't messing well or they are stripped. With large tires you are going to have problems with the gears. There is an article over at the traxxas forums about adding shims to the diffs that might help.

[guver]

Yes, diff gears slipping/stripping

[RCNitroDude999]

sounds like something a traxxas would do....thanks for the info.

[RCNitroDude999]

http://tinypic.com/14a5wx

[tuil21]

Hey all-

I am wanting to get some sorta electric monster truck with the money I am gonna make this summer, and so right now I am sorta scoping out the emaxx.

Before I get one, I want to make sure it wont be a total money pit. So, my question for you guys is, what parts are a common break (I am gonna be running 12-14 cells and stock electronics if I get one), because basically, I wanna get the hop ups I really need and leave it at that. Bottom line is, I dont want to dump a whole lot of money into it, just the essencials. :)

Also, have they updated the e-maxx with the new 2.5 suspension? I was thinking of buying rpm 2.5 arms, as well as driveshafts and turnbuckles...thats just a possibility. :)

So, I essentialy want to know what hopups would I need to run this truck happily in stock form, not spending too much money. :)

I look forward for a maxx :D-
-Kyle


all new emaxxes have the 2.5 suspension btw oin the cvds u need teh 2.5 verson if u get a new e

[fuzzy2133]

all new emaxxes have the 2.5 suspension btw oin the cvds u need teh 2.5 verson if u get a new e

would you by chance have the part number or will the 2.5 t-maxx cvds work?

[riatvriderwd]

how do snowproof the emaxx esc?

[RCNitroDude999]

easy...dont drive in the snow :)

[microrcdude]

TO snowproof it, stick it in a balloon and seal the openings with grease.

[Quinton]

CVD's are a waste of money IMHO. Stick with the stock sliders.

[fuzzy2133]

CVD's are a waste of money IMHO. Stick with the stock sliders.

I would however the novak HV motor might say otherwise once I get some time in. I have never had any trouble with the CVD's in any of the vehicles that used them. I do have to agree with you they cost more than they should to buy them.

[riatvriderwd]

Originally Posted by microdude
stick it in a balloon and seal the openings with grease.
out of all the forums ive read and how people respond to others questions, this has got to be the worst

[Bta]

Who pissed in his wheaties? And there is another cry baby with no sense of humor or life. What a shame. Happy New Year. ;)

[guver]

Is anyone using the kyosho perfex esc? If so how do you like it on how many cells?

[Wizardman_1]

out of all the forums ive read and how people respond to others questions, this has got to be the worst

That is how most people water proof things around here, i dont see what's so bad about it? You could also use a sealant instead of grease as well.

[joemama]

Hey..Anybody else running a brushless Emaxx? My setup is a Nemesis 10L and 9918 Warrior Controller..Speed is about 45mph~

[Bta]

All right! I've just been e mailed by Tower. My two Novac Bl's are on their way. Yes, Yes, Yes! :)

[fuzzy2133]

All right! I've just been e mailed by Tower. My two Novac Bl's are on their way. Yes, Yes, Yes! :)

I managed to get some run time with mine to day before a little rain rolled through. managed to get some video of it running, could have been alot better if I had a camera person.

a little movie on my e-maxx page (http://www.alongi.net/rcdivision/emaxx.htm)

[riatvriderwd]

i think im gonna just throw 2 saran quick covers on to run my emaxx in the snow.. but when im done should i take out all the bearings n spray some wd 40 in there? anything else i should dry or spray with some wd40?

[HammerTime2K4]

I've had some MAJOR headaches with my E-Maxx since upgrades. I got the Lunsford TI Turnbuckles, and haven't gotten them to work yet. They almost seem too short, because my ball ends won't stay on...ANY help is appreciated...

Thanks-
~Cody

[fuzzy2133]

if your e-maxx has the 2.5 widemaxx suspention and you got the old style short turnbuckles then, yes they will be too short.

[HammerTime2K4]

These are the ones I got from Towerhobbies...http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXALG9...I thought they were for the 2.5...but now I'm not sure...
~Cody

[riatvriderwd]

hey i was wondering if when you tighten the slipper clutch..if that spring thats behind the nut..is that supposed to compress so much where it starts getting mishaped and bent and everything..because mine is that tight and i still cant do wheelies....

[Bta]

hey i was wondering if when you tighten the slipper clutch..if that spring thats behind the nut..is that supposed to compress so much where it starts getting mishaped and bent and everything..because mine is that tight and i still cant do wheelies....
I believe that you have spun the slipper cluch enough that you have possibly burnt it up. I'am not sure right off how many slipper pegs are in the stock cluch, but I know that you can get after mkt. ones with about twice the amount of pegs. comes in handy for that extra moter power, But it sort of defeats the purpose of saving the cvd's. By the way " In my opion " Mip bones, axle and centers are the only way to go, But the wooen peg idea, to put them inside the sliders "tight fit" is a must! :cool:
Drive On
Oh! And yes, you tighten the slipper cluch all the way, not to the point that you squeez the spring bigger around 'coil on top of coil' But I don't think that you could do that anyway. ;)

[fuzzy2133]

you can put 12 pegs in the stock slipper setup. gives more sufrace area to help prevent it from slipping so easily with a higher power increase.

[Bta]

you can put 12 pegs in the stock slipper setup. gives more sufrace area to help prevent it from slipping so easily with a higher power increase.
Sorry, I thought mine came with six pegs. But I see that it does show twelve in the parts break down. Guess that maybe you can't get em with more pegs.

[riatvriderwd]

well it was so tight that i tried to loosen it n ended up cracking the tool that traxxas gives u to tighten it..so now i cant tighten it easily anymore..anywhere i can get that tool? its the one u can use for the tires and the slipper clutch....idk

[Bta]

well it was so tight that i tried to loosen it n ended up cracking the tool that traxxas gives u to tighten it..so now i cant tighten it easily anymore..anywhere i can get that tool? its the one u can use for the tires and the slipper clutch....idk
Try using a 8mm 1/4 inch drive."I took a closer look" And I guess I was part right, There are twelve holes in that slipper cluch but only six pegs. I've utilized all twelve, using twelve pegs.

[riatvriderwd]

first day i had it
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/759000-759999/759961_6_full.jpg
after some mud:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/759000-759999/759961_1_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/759000-759999/759961_4_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/759000-759999/759961_2_full.jpg
ive hit that trailer plenty of times jumping this mound of dirt...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/759000-759999/759961_3_full.jpg
sorry if they r so big..couldnt make them smaller..and its all stock ..hopefully it wont be soon i just dont know what to get for it yet

[Megazone23]

Hehe, I experienced the same transformation from squeaky clean to dirty as hell when I got mine! :D You might want to flip your rear wheels around so the tire treads are facing the right way.

[standard_63]

These are the ones I got from Towerhobbies...http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXALG9...I thought they were for the 2.5...but now I'm not sure...
~Cody

I had the same problem when I ordered mine--too short. I had to look around and get the longer ti ones. I can't remember if they were directly from Lunsford or Proline...

[Milesdavis314]

will the "Robinson Racing Double Disc Slipper Kit 66T E-Maxx" fix my diff problem. Mine is really tight and i still cant do wheelies. I think i ruined the plates or pegs or whatever it is. Also, is there a cheaper way to fix it other than buying the new diff... thanks

[riatvriderwd]

yea i was trying to see if they would work better backwards in the sand thats in our corral...idk if i tightened my slipper clutch way to much or not but i ended up breaking the tool traxxas gives u while i was tightning it and now i think i should loosen it..even tho i still cant to do wheelies with it like it is...so idk unless its not tight enough..? :confused: i feel dumb sayin this but how do u kno when its to tight or too loose..maybe ill post a pic of showing how tight it is...but yea i dont really have a tool now to loosen or tighten it so idk

[Quinton]

One of my used Maxx's came with a duratrax 4 way tool and I've used it on all my different nitro's. It works VERY well.
I've never noticed much difference with the slipper being tightened all the way or somewhat loose. My 2.5's and Sirio's could never really make it "slip", but my 24.7 could.
Best way for wheelies is aftermarket tires and 14 cells.
I really like my IMEX baja dawg's. If you do get new tires it's always smart (and fun) to get some offset wheels as well.

[fuzzy2133]

will the "Robinson Racing Double Disc Slipper Kit 66T E-Maxx" fix my diff problem. Mine is really tight and i still cant do wheelies. I think i ruined the plates or pegs or whatever it is. Also, is there a cheaper way to fix it other than buying the new diff... thanks

start by taking off the slipper plates, slipper rings, and spur gear. 1. take the slipper rings and on the side the pegs touch take some sand paper to revome any shiny stuff from the slipper pegs have been slipping. 2. if the pegs are ok use the sand paper to both sides of the pegs lightly or replce the bad pegs with 12 new pegs. Finally reassemble, if you have trouble getting the rings to key into the pin in the plates a little shoe goo helps hold the plates and rings together.

the RRP double disk slipper will work and it is all personal preference to what you like better.

hope this helps.

[SerpentKing101]

I finally got off my ass and bought some long half-shafts and the diff yokes. Theres just one problem.

How do you get those darn metal u-joints inside the shafts? That plastic doesnt like to flex.

[guver]

Is anyone using the kyosho perfex esc? If so how do you like it on how many cells?

[Milesdavis314]

thanks fuzzy... I'll give it a try

[riatvriderwd]

hey i was wondering if its worth it to buy a stainless steel screw kit...also.. is a 26$ roll cage worth it?

[Quinton]

nope

[fuzzy2133]

I finally got off my ass and bought some long half-shafts and the diff yokes. Theres just one problem.

How do you get those darn metal u-joints inside the shafts? That plastic doesnt like to flex.

you know those tools that came with the truck that look like they are no good? well one of them has a slot in it that is big enough for the u-joint pin to fit and it will give you just enough leverge to flex the plastic enough to get the u-joint in the yoke.

riatvriderwd - it depends on what they hold together. some people get tired of striping the philips screws and swithch to allen screws like I will do when I decide on a new chassis.

[Quinton]

Heat up the plastic and it will go in easier.

[Megazone23]

yea i was trying to see if they would work better backwards in the sand thats in our corral

Maybe you might want to try paddle-style tires. Those are designed to give you really good grip in loose dirt/sand.

BTW, I finally got around to trimming and test-mounting my Humvee militia body. Here's a link to the thread in the painting section:
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=186079

[metalry101]

That is how most people water proof things around here, i dont see what's so bad about it? You could also use a sealant instead of grease as well.

Ya...umm..see there's this thing called heat. Balloons melt when touched by hot things. Recievers don't get hot, hence a balloon works wonders for keeping them dry, but an ESC, and especially an EVX, does tend to generate a bit of heat during the course of it's use. Ever touch those heatsinks after a run? Even if they're only mildly warm (kinda doubtful...but possible I suppose), they're still gonna melt a balloon.

[darncars]

esc water-foolproof:..blob silicone over entire esc and into heat-sink lower half.then extend heat-sinks.

[Bta]

I think that I'll sell my Traxxas Monster Buggy. It's only had three tanks of gas run through it. Just selling the buggy with the servos but not the transmitter. What do ya think it's worth?

[darncars]

who what when why?what you got there,mr.?details pleez!

[Bta]

The tire's you see on the Monster Buggy are the originals. I would call it new but you can see the dirt. It has never been wrecked or rolled. It was $1,200.00 when I bought it from Tower. I don't plan on giving it away but no reasonable will be refused. It runs great, and will amaze ya with it's speed and handling. Nothing around here can touch it as far as speed go's. It also has the hypo exhaust system which was over $100.00. Not much else to tell. Any questions?

[dgarland10]

Just bought my first real RC, and am so excited about the E-Maxx. I bought a used one just to get going, and then will go from there. Been researching batteries and chargers, and man is there a lot of opinions out there, and I need a couple from you guys! I am looking at these batteries from ProMatch Racing: GP331656A 400+ 1.165-1.169** . These are assembled 6 cell. Any thoughts? Also what charger should I get. As I am just getting into this I do not want to spend too much money, but dont want to buy junk either. Initially I will be just bashing, but am slightly interested in racing in the future. Thanks!

dgarland10

[Bta]

Traxxas Monster Buggy:

Ready for the Ultimate in Big-Scale Fun? This 1/6 Scale Off-Road Buggy
comes Almost-Ready-to-Run with a Giant Zenoah 23cc Engine.

FEATURES: T-6 aluminum chassis Slipper clutch
Giant, aluminum oil-filled shocks Disk brake
One hour run time per tank Turnbuckle tie-rods
Full bearings
Almost ready to run -- just install radio system and body

INCLUDES: Zenoah 23cc engine with recoil starter, air filter, and spark plug
Giant white rims, rear spike tires, and front ribbed tires
2-piece body with rollcage, wing, and decals
Illustrated instructions

REQUIRES: 2-channel radio with throttle ATV (adjustable travel volume)
TWO 1/4-scale servos (for steering) and Y-harness to connect them
One high torque servo (for throttle/brake)
5-cell, sub-c receiver battery (to power all those servos...)
Charger (for receiver battery)
CA glue (to attach tires to rims)
Building equipment (Balldrivers-metric, nutdrivers-metric, Phillips
screwdriver, and needle nose pliers)
Gasoline and 2-cycle engine oil

SPECS: Length: 26" Track width: 17.7" Wheelbase: 18.6"
Weight: 22 lbs Caster: 20-degrees Speed: 35+ mph
Fuel: 25 to 1 gas oil mix
Spark plug: NGK BMR6A or NGK BMR7A Spark plug gap: .65mm
Horsepower: 2 hp

COMMENTS: Kit comes with full bearings: fourteen 8x22 (we carry, KYOC2214)
and two 15x32 (we don't carry).
We do not carry the foam inserts that are suggested in the manual.
The inserts (TRA's #6064) can be purchased from Traxxas.
Now selling at Tower for $899.00, Guess I'd take around $750.00 for mine.

In an attempt to answer the charger question - I really like the AstroFlight 112 deluxe, I own two of them. As for the batts. Radio Shack 3000's work quite well for me.

[Quinton]

Just bought my first real RC, and am so excited about the E-Maxx. I bought a used one just to get going, and then will go from there. Been researching batteries and chargers, and man is there a lot of opinions out there, and I need a couple from you guys! I am looking at these batteries from ProMatch Racing: GP331656A 400+ 1.165-1.169** . These are assembled 6 cell. Any thoughts? Also what charger should I get. As I am just getting into this I do not want to spend too much money, but dont want to buy junk either. Initially I will be just bashing, but am slightly interested in racing in the future. Thanks!

dgarland10

Welcome to the boards man. Good buy going used in my opinion. All my nitro r/c's I've bought used. Back when I had an electric I posted a thread in the wanted section for used batts. You will get ppl to sell you some good 3300's that have lots of life left in them but aren't good enough for them to race with. But if they have dean's connectors on them, then you would have to switch your Maxx and charger to accomodate them.
The biggest improvement you could make would be some high quality batts and aftermarket tires (lighter and more grip) unless it came with some.

Again welcome to the board and get ready to dip into the nitro's. lol

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I was thinking about trying my truck locked into second and just going with 16 tooth pinions and/or the 70 tooth spur and seeying how that works for me. I've got so much land to run on I'm doing alot of full throttle driving and cruising around. I'm in the process of upgrading my stock electronics. I have a Super Duty ESC on the way, and a Futaba 3PM FM radio with a high torque servo is on the way as well. I've taken the shifter servo and linkage out of the truck and am going to try locking it into second by pushing the shaft all the way into the tranny and going around it with some GE SiliconeII.

That's all fine and dandy, but here's my question.... I've heard that people have locked theirs into second gear and removed some of the gears and other parts from the tranny. If I like second gear only, thats what I plan to do. Can someone tell me exactly which gears and other parts can be removed? I was also thinking I heard somewhere inside the tranny you had to make a spacer if you removed certain parts. Could someone clarify this a little? I've got my tranny out of the truck and opened up... actually looks a little more simple than I had expected for what the tranny actually does... neat :)

[cheerwhiner]

i agree with ya- if i was going to race my emaxx at my dirt track, it would just be a waste to have two gears. I am sure we'll get an answer.

batteries are critical, and as with any r/c car, so are tires

[PCC]

I've done the opposite, locked my E-Maxx into first then removed the guts for second. The way I did it, though, was to remove the center slider piece that is used to shift gears and I replaced it with a small aluminum plate that I made on the mill. This locks the output gear to the output shaft. I then needed to space the output shaft so that it will not move in the tranny case. I used 6mm bushings from one of my Tamiya kits and a few small Traxxas shims. Works great.

The parts you can remove are:
idler gear and shaft, first gear output gear, shift fork, shift selector. I used a nut and bolt to seal up the hole for the selector shaft.

[SerpentKing101]

I finally got those metal joints inside the yoke pins (bloody gums and all, didnt have those tools) Then I realized that the YOKES DO NOT FIT THE DIFF OUTDRIVES. I'm in the process of crying out my man-tears and vowing ultimate revenge against Traxxas.

These (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDDT2) are the yokes I purchased.

[Bta]

I finally got those metal joints inside the yoke pins (bloody gums and all, didnt have those tools) Then I realized that the YOKES DO NOT FIT THE DIFF OUTDRIVES. I'm in the process of crying out my man-tears and vowing ultimate revenge against Traxxas.

These (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDDT2) are the yokes I purchased.
Sounds like you did the samething that I did. You got cvd's for the T maxx not the E maxx. Sux! I'm still waiting for the correct ones, Mip's part #1495 not #1486

[riatvriderwd]

hey guys i was wondering how many types of Emaxx chassis r out there..i saw gorillamaxx..bombproof...torpedo..idk any other ones? lexan maybe? just post ne ones u know of

[sforsancho]

hey guys i was wondering how many types of Emaxx chassis r out there..i saw gorillamaxx..bombproof...torpedo..idk any other ones? lexan maybe? just post ne ones u know of

Unlimited Engineering: (www.unlimitedengineering.com)
Lightning Chassis: $300

Gorilla-Maxx (www.gorillamaxx.com)
G2 Aluminum Chassis: $179.00
G2 Carbon Chassis: $189.00

Bomb-Proof Products (www.bomb-proofproducts.com)
Torpedo Chassis: $100
Race Bomb Chassis: $150
Aluminum Race Bomb Chassis: $200 <- Very rare, no longer produced, I have one for sale if your'e interested...

New Era (www.neweramodels.com)
3.2mm CNC main chassis $49.95

Hardcore Racing (www.racinghardcore.com)
Al E-maxx Chassis Tub: $179.00


Xtreme RC (www.xtremercracing.com)
X Maxx: $99.00
Xtreme Maxx: $189.00
BL Xtreme Maxx: $249.00

Megatech RC (?) from towerhobbies.com
Al Quad Power Chassis $123.99

Traxxas (www.traxxas.com)
Stock ($17.59)

Those are all the E-maxx chassis that I know of,try and stick with the top three brands, those are all good. You get what you pay for, basically, with the exception of the hardcore chassis, no room for expanion (ex. only 6 cells), heavy, and not well thought out.

[riatvriderwd]

thanks

[riatvriderwd]

i was thinkin of gettin some red anodized parts but if i had red anodized skid plates or a arms...would the red eventually scratch off?

[fuzzy2133]

sadly the colored anodized aliminum does have a tendancy to scratch off easily. best thing to do is get silver since scratches will not stand out as much.

[standard_63]

Will the Hardcore Racing Titanium Tmaxx Chassis bolt up to the Emaxx tranny and bulkheads/braces ok? I have a BL Emaxx with a single Lipo battery, and I was thinking that if the chassis bolts to the tranny ok, I could servo tape the shifter servo and velcro the battery to the left side. Right now I only use one side for the battery on the stock chassis.

[Maxxcrazy]

http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0129.jpg

An update to the maxx

[Bta]

http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0129.jpg

An update to the maxx
What is that? Verbos please.

[metalry101]

It's a "maxx-based" crawler. They were invented because lotza people have/had maxxes and as such parts are easy to come by. If you lock the arms at their highest setting you've got massive amounts of clearance under the diffs, and it allows u 2 set up a 4 link design to get more flex.

I personally think that Clod-based crawlers are better, and that Maxxcrazy's truck is far too top-heavy to be competitive w/ a well built Clod-based crawler. The advantage in approach angle and ground clearance at the diffs is undeniable, but so is the weight of that 1/4 scale servo, electric motor, and transmission, all of which are mounted above the axle's centerline. Not trying to flame Maxxcrazy's truck at all, just explaining the advantages of a Clod-based crawler. Clod-based crawlers are better overall...but they are more expensive to build generally, and parts are not as readily available.

Maxxcrazy~
It's difficult to see your chassis setup and whatnot w/ the body on. Have any current body off pics? I'm impressed w/ your truck. It's the nicest Maxx based crawler I've seen.

[Maxxcrazy]

http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0130.jpg
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0127.jpg
Still needs to be finished. Just a few small brackets need to be made.

Nah, this would destroy a clod. Clods have many bad sides too, like low clearance, motors in the way, narrow, hard to securly mount a servo without killing the approach, etc. A clod's batterys and servos are mounted above the centerline of the axles too.

The CG is going to be low. Both batts (reciever and standard) will be on the axles, the tranny will be laid down and I have steel balls in the front tires. Plus LST's are heavy as ----.

Maxx's are the future, everyone up in Oregon used to run X factor and TXT axles but now almost all of them run maxx rigs.

[jdrelleum]

hey newbee here has any one ran 8.4 volt or 9.6 volt battery packs in a stock e-maxx
this is my first battery truck I am a nitro guy but in wisconsin the winters are long and hard on nitro...
thanks for the help...

[Megazone23]

I've only run 6-cell batts (7.2V) myself, but I don't believe the EVX can handle dual 9.6V batts.

[fuzzy2133]

it can handle dual 7 cell batts. that setup wakes the truck up pretty good with out having to get new motors.

[guver]

I use 16 cells on mine. evx is ok, but titans will overspeed.

[riatvriderwd]

hey guys after runnin the emaxx in the snow am i suppose to spray some wd 40 in all the bearings..and do i have to take them out of the axle carries to do that?

[Quinton]

If I run in alot of snow and water I just remove the wheels and give the bearings and such a good squirtin'

[darncars]

E_MAXX in the snow isnt too smart you know. Use compressed air then oil it up.

[riatvriderwd]

yea but i cover everythin up

[riatvriderwd]

problem...i got about 100-150 to spend on my emaxx..but i have no idea what to get..i was thinkin a new body..maybe the atomik black/grey one..then i need a new front skid cuz i just cracked it runnin out in the snow...but idk wut else..theres nothin i NEED yet...but yea not sure what to get

[Quinton]

New lighter more grippy tires make a big difference.

[metalry101]

Don't even bother w/ a new front skid. As long as the part under the bulkhead is good just leave it. That said, buy the RPM wear plates. They're the best bang for the buck. Other things that you do "need" are the Associated motor heat sinks, and some matched 7 cell packs. If you're set on batteries then pick up some new shoes. The stock Maxx tires are harder than the street you drive it on, so they don't hook up very well. Pick up some better tires and you'll have a truck that is a lot more fun. Other than that, umm...better shocks (not cheapo Associated or Hot Bodies ones), and/or a better steering servo are both very solid upgrades. For shocks I'd say go w/ the Big Bores, and for the servo I'd reccomend (sp?) the the Hitec 645MG.

problem...i got about 100-150 to spend on my emaxx..but i have no idea what to get..i was thinkin a new body..maybe the atomik black/grey one..then i need a new front skid cuz i just cracked it runnin out in the snow...but idk wut else..theres nothin i NEED yet...but yea not sure what to get

[tadium54]

RPM plates will do nothing. I ran them on my old gen 1 e-maxx, and the same result happened- broken skid resulting in a loose front end. Big bores are nice if you hae the cash, but I've heard good things about the assocated ones. agreed, the tires are pretty hard, so get some good ones. a better steering servo is a wise idea too, along with 7 cell packs

[metalry101]

I've never had problems w/ my RPM plates. Ya, the stock skids can still break, but I'd rather have the skid break than the screws break off inside my aluminum bulkheads. I like them because they've got enough kick up to protect the front of my bulkheads, and no extra to get in the way and break off. Just my personal preference though.

[tadium54]

The center skid I had worked well enough, I just wasn't a big fan of the front and rear plates. The other RPM stuff I had was great though

[flipster]

I bought an E-Maxx late last year and have had a blast bashing around and replacing broken plastic with aluminum, but lately I've noticed that my steering barely moves (even with no weight on the tires). I took the stock one apart and everything looked ok, no water in the case and no broken teeth. I'm trying to decide if it's truly my servo or if I somehow messed something up when I switched to the RPM A-arms.

If it is the servo, is the hitec 645mg still the way to go (as I've seen in previous posts) or is there something better (think budget, I've already dumped $6-700 in this thing and the wife is starting to notice)

[metalry101]

Shouldn't have anything to do w/ the new A-Arms. It's possible, but I doubt that's your problem. The stock servo is a joke, and it has served it's time. Seriously, if you've been beating on your truck hard for months and it's just now going out then you've done well. I would definately suggest the 645MG as the "budget" servo. I know it's not real cheap, but it's the best on the market in the price range. I personally run a 5645 because I prefer the sexiness and bragging rights that go w/ running a digital servo. If you can scrounge up 10 extra bux (a 645 is 45 bux, a 5645 is only 55), it's definately worth every penny. If not, the 645 will work great. I prefer digital and don't mind paying extra, but if you're on a budget then the 645 should be at the top of your list. A close second on that list would be the new 50 dollar JR. It's the Z650M. I haven't tried it yet, but I know JR makes an exceptional product, and they do back all of their products w/ a 3 year guarantee. For only 5 bux more I'd actually say that's probably the better buy. Not that there's anything wrong w/ the 645MG, it's been proven many a time...but if it were my truck and I were choosing between those two, I'd spend my money on the JR.

[Freem]

I am also planning on upgrading my servo. I wanted to know what is the minimum amount of servo torque do I need? I have stock emaxx with the UE lightning chase and UE shock towers. Thanks

Freem

[riatvriderwd]

when you buy a servo..do you have to reprogram anything or you just plug it into the evx

[fuzzy2133]

flipster - if you have removed the knuckles at some point you might have gotten the pillow ball caps on too tight or they may just need a cleaning, the next spot to check is the bell cranks. just check each part one at a time to see that moves easy with out any tight spots.

[tadium54]

100 oz is a good place to start. 140 ish is even better. my cirrus cs-80 is about 133 and very good

riatvriderwd- you may have a hard time steering if you try to plug it into the evx lol. but if you plug into the reciever, you should be fine- no reprograming nesscesary

flipster- the stock servo saver isn't really that good after time- get a kimbrough 124 or 123 servo saver with a hitec 645 and you should be in good shape. want to take it a step further? hitec 945 with an unlimited engineering servo system- that will move pretty much anything

[riatvriderwd]

yea sry i meant reciever..any tire sugggestions? i usually ride mostly on dirt/ some sand/ and some street

[standard_63]

I just got the 40 series Mashers and Moab tires, both are great. I really like the 40 series.

[tadium54]

maxx mashers, bowties or mulchers would be a good place to start

[Milesdavis314]

What is the danger in setting my new robinson racing slipper clutch to tis tightest? would it jsut strip the gears? thanks

[guver]

Danger may be when landing full bore off a jump instead of the slipper slipping something else will snap.....

[tadium54]

Yeah, your tranny would take alot of shock after a big jump if it was cranked down to the tightest

[Maximillio1091]

all right..i purchased a duratrax evader about 3 years ago because i was a noob and i really like that stadium truck but i wanto go BIGGER so im still going to stick to electric but the limit on speed and hop ups but most importantly the limit overcoming obstacles on this evader is starting to bore me, i was wondering if you guys can post some pros and con about the emaxx and maybe i could buy one myself

[metalry101]

Good things:
- Doesn't have breakage problems like a T-Maxx because it doesn't hit things as hard (because it's slower)
- As fast as any electric monster truck
- Better handling than every other electric monster truck
- Excellent value
- Crazy aftermarket support
- Torque is NEVER an issue
- Fairly maintenence free, given that you don't break it
- Everyone has one

Bad things:
- Hard on batteries (dual 550's draw a lot of amps)
- Not as fast as nitro w/ only 12 cells, or even 14.
- Can't even touch a nitro monster for top end power
- EVX doesn't like water, AT ALL
- Weaksauce stock steering servo
- Everyone has one

[Maximillio1091]

now what kind of batteries should i get on that give me runtime but for a good price, i run a 2400 on my evader, i woulld buy extra batteries for the emaxx anyways but just to know, 2400 sounds good?

[fuzzy2133]

add...

bad things:
stock shocks can be weak

I would move up to at least 3000mah packs and get a charger than can charge dual packs or one that can charge up to 14 cells so you can wire two packs in series for charging.

[Megazone23]

I, too, started out with an Evader ST, and I bought my E-Maxx in December, and I love it. I think Metalry101 summed it up pretty good. Personally, I've loved the move to the Maxx, although I still love running my Evader, too. They really behave differently due to a) difference in weight and distribution, and b) 2WD vs 4WD.

The only thing I would probably differ on is the EVX and water thing. On Day 1 of the E-Maxx era, I accidentally ditched (literally) the Maxx, and it was unexpectedly full of water. I immediately shut everything down, dried it out, and let it sit over night. After blowing out the receiver and EVX the following day with some compressed air, it fired up just fine -- no probs. Of course as with everything else, your mileage may vary.

I would recommend buying one used off of eBay. I picked up one that was mostly stock, slightly modified, for $230 delivered.

[Megazone23]

Okay, I've decided to trash the stock bumpers and replace them, ideally something that will look good with the Humvee Militia body I painted. I am leaning towards some basic aluminum (silver) bumpers front and rear -- nothing special. I thought about the RPMs, but I think they look better with the pickup bodies than the Hummvee.

Any opinions? I posted a link to some pics in the Body/Painting forum a while back if you want to see what it looks like.

[fuzzy2133]

what about the bumpers pro-line make?

[tadium54]

I've had RPM stuff on my trucks and found them to be great, but if you want a military look, go for the proline ones

[metalry101]

I run the Pro-Line bumpers myself. They're strong, mean looking, and are considerably cheaper than the RPM ones.

[Megazone23]

Thanks for the info, guys -- I just ordered a set of the Pro-Line bumpers. While I was at it, I went ahead and got the 3-piece RPM skid plate set and some 3lb/7lb dual rate springs. :D

Now all I have to do is figure out how I'm going to mount my wireless minicam...

[flipster]

Thanks guys for the steering info, turned out the pillow balls were cranked too tight. Unfortunately, I have a new problem.

The last time I was out everything worked great, tried to go out the next day and had good steering, but nothing else. The ESC changes from red to green when I hit throttle and blinks green when I hit reverse, but that's it. I've checked the connections to the motor, everything there checks out.

I suspect the EVX is dead for one of two reasons, but I wanted a 2nd opinion: 1) One of the batteries was EXTREMELY difficult to get off (prying didn't work, had to use two pairs of pliers) and 2) I was running after some snow had melted so there is a chance that it got wet although I didn't think it had.

My only recent change was a pair of 20t motor gears.

Any ideas? Also, it's only 3 months old so if it's not water, will Traxxas likely repair it under warranty? If it's water, obviously it's my fault.

[metalry101]

You probably got it a bit wet. It's really hit or miss whether or not the EVX fries when it gets wet. Some fry in anything above 30% humidity, others can be run in the snow and mud all day long and not fry. I'd bet the combination of taller gearing and water probably toasted it.

And as for the battery not wanting to come off...welcome to the wonderful world of Tamiya connectors. They suck. Solder up some Deans Ultra connectors are drive worry free. Deans connectors have less resistance than the same length of 12 guage wire. I've run Deans for years and have never had any problems, ever.

[tadium54]

Yes, Tamiya connectors are junk. Get some better ones and you'll be in better shape

[maximum]

I had the same problem. It was a dead EVX. Traxxas repaired it. They will repair for free under war. and for $20 anytime after. A good support if you ask me.
The connector melted because the ESC shorted the battery.
20T may be too low for the EVX. The titans are 23T. Are you using 6 or 7 cell packs?



Thanks guys for the steering info, turned out the pillow balls were cranked too tight. Unfortunately, I have a new problem.

The last time I was out everything worked great, tried to go out the next day and had good steering, but nothing else. The ESC changes from red to green when I hit throttle and blinks green when I hit reverse, but that's it. I've checked the connections to the motor, everything there checks out.

I suspect the EVX is dead for one of two reasons, but I wanted a 2nd opinion: 1) One of the batteries was EXTREMELY difficult to get off (prying didn't work, had to use two pairs of pliers) and 2) I was running after some snow had melted so there is a chance that it got wet although I didn't think it had.

My only recent change was a pair of 20t motor gears.

Any ideas? Also, it's only 3 months old so if it's not water, will Traxxas likely repair it under warranty? If it's water, obviously it's my fault.

[metalry101]

^^^ He was referring to 20 tooth pinions on the motors, not 20 turn motors. That's probably part of the reason it fried, because that is a bit taller than stock (which is 18/66). That alone wouldn't fry one, but combined w/ some other stuff it could, because that would put more of a load on the ESC.

As for the motor limit of the EVX, it's 19 turns.

[Milesdavis314]

Has anyone instaleld a robinson racing slipper... If so, how did u deal with the bearing not fitting over the shaft. The instructions say to shave it down but wouldnt that defeat the purpose of teh shaft. It seems to me like it need to be hexagonal in order to transfer teh power from teh spur gear to teh drive shafts. Thanks!

-Jim

[flipster]

I had the same problem. It was a dead EVX. Traxxas repaired it. They will repair for free under war. and for $20 anytime after. A good support if you ask me.
The connector melted because the ESC shorted the battery.
20T may be too low for the EVX. The titans are 23T. Are you using 6 or 7 cell packs?

As metalry said, I'm running 20 tooth gears, not 20 turn motors; however, I do think you may have a point, the 7 cell batteries, 20T gears and 3 acres of land to blast across might have overheated something... For whatever it's worth, I didn't really notice a performance improvement when bashing on the grass so I may switch back to the 18t gears. I may even go the other way and see if the extra torque helps it blast across the yard.

Oh well, It's on its way to Traxxas right now and will hopefully be fixed soon. I agree, their tech support seems very willing to assist and take things in for repair, good stuff.

[Megazone23]

Well, I finally finished it...for now. Here are the latest pics of my ride, complete with a screenie from the driver-cam. You guys were right about the Pro-line bumpers. I'm glad I went with these over the RPMs. They fit the look a lot better. I'm going to try to actually capture some video and post it later.

http://home.earthlink.net/~aywang67/images/E-Maxx/The Lone Star of Traxxas by Andrew Wang - Sm.JPG

[ineed2selmycars]

cool and thats y u should buy a brand new stampede with tekin rebel speed control mounted onto professionally done aluminum plate, also with aftermarket steering servo (unbreakable), and a 19 top of the line speed gems motor with deens connectors for maximum performance witha airtronics reciever and controller.

[metalry101]

***? What's w/ the flaming? Seriously...you need to be banned...

[tadium54]

Ya, make your own post in the right section buddy. Or you probably will be banned

[metalry101]

That driver's cam is pretty sweet. Overall your truck looks nice. I really like the paint scheme (Texas flag if I remember correctly?) and the matching wheels. Only one problem though...after you destroy that Hummer body, your next body is going to have to match the red and blue wheels too...so you'll be limited on that...but that's alright, I'm sure you already knew that...looks great man.

[Megazone23]

Thanks, and you are correct about the Texas Flag. I realize these wheels are pretty much tied to this body. Although as long as it took me to get this body done, I'm not in any real hurry to paint another! :eek:

I actually have another set of wheels that aren't paint-scheme-dependent. They're RPM's blue chrome StableMaxx Monster Spiders, and I've got some Losi Zombie Maxx skins on the way for them. I figure I'll use them when I need the additional width or once I manage to scrape all the paint off of the blue and red wheels. :D

[Milesdavis314]

Has anyone installed a robinson racing slipper... If so, how did u deal with the bearing not fitting over the shaft. The instructions say to shave it down but wouldnt that defeat the purpose of teh shaft. It seems to me like it need to be hexagonal in order to transfer teh power from teh spur gear to teh drive shafts. Thanks!

-Jim

[fuzzy2133]

you need to shave the hexagonal pionts/edges down to allow the bearing to slide over them. not much material needs to be removed. the flat parts will still be in contact to transfer the power into the tranny.

[throcte]

Hey guys, just bought my first E-Maxx on ebay. It's got some aftermarket alum. stuff like CHASSIS BRACES, UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS, BUMPERS, GPM CENTER SKID PLATE, FRONT AND REAR SKID PLATES, BATTERY HOLD DOWN/HEAT SINKS, KNOCK OFF STYLE WHEELS NUTS, BLUE DEEP OFFSET WHEELS(NOT ALUMINUM). What i'm wondering is if there is anything else i need, like something that breaks alot or will correct any problems. This is just going to be for fun/bashing so nothing is needed to race. Thanks for the ideas.

[Milesdavis314]

Thanks FUzzy2133 ...

One more question. Can anyone think of a reason why my slipper clutch is ALWAYS slipping. I even replaced the pegs and tightened it down a lot. Then i ran it again and it was good for about two seconds... Then it started slipping again.. The nut isnt coming loose and I cant find anything liek stuck in the driveshafts or anything. Any advice would be helpful. THanks!

-Jim

[fuzzy2133]

You may have it set too loose depending on your setup. if you are still running the stock motors then thighten the slipper all the way down then back it off I think 1/4 of a turn. it could be less depending on the surface, tires, motors and number of cells you run.

[Megazone23]

Has anyone used Powerpole connectors? I was just reading an article about these in this month's issue of RC Driver, and I'm thinking about switching over to them.

I know a lot of people swear by Dean's connectors, but the article mentioned three things that really struck a chord with me:
1) You don't have to solder the connections (which for me is a good thing), and if done right, the crimped connections can be better than a soldered connection.
2) Once completed, the connectors are shielded by the housing. The connections (crimped or soldered) don't require shrink wrap for shielding, and since there aren't any exposed terminals, there's no chance of shorting anything by accident.
3) You can hook up the plug housing in different configurations so you can use these connectors for the batteries, ESC, motors, etc. without accidentally hooking up something where it shouldn't be, such as plugging the battery to the motor controller side of the ESC.

Any thoughts?

[Freem]

I also read the same article; it was very well written and very informative! I am also planning on trying powerpoles for the very same reason: the ability to crimp the connections verse soldering them. If it is true that crimping is better than soldering, that is a important fact that seems to have gotten little attention. :confused:

Megazone23 I am glad you brought this subject up.

[guver]

I have used them and love them. I use the 45,30 and 15 amp. Another benefit is to series connect stuff without removeing any ends. Just slide the + and - apart.

[Megazone23]

Well, I think that just about seals it for me. Guver is probably one of the more knowledgable RC guys that I've met, so if he gives it a thumbs up, then they gotta be good! :D

[guver]

Del (writer of article) is very knowledgeable too . They (west mountain radio ) make a very nice comuterised battery tester that allows you to view graphs on your computer for discharge ing. They also make some nice distribution blocks complete with powerpoles connectors.

Only thing I wonder about is that crimping is better than soldering. ?? I wouldn't have thoguht so, but Del knows what he's talking about.

[tadium54]

I run them too, and love them. great connectors

[throcte]

Hey guys, i need help! I posted this a week ago, but i guess it was missed. I bought my first E-Maxx on ebay and am going to get it on wed. It's got some aftermarket alum. stuff like CHASSIS BRACES, UPPER AND LOWER A-ARMS, BUMPERS, GPM CENTER SKID PLATE, FRONT AND REAR SKID PLATES, BATTERY HOLD DOWN/HEAT SINKS, KNOCK OFF STYLE WHEELS NUTS, BLUE DEEP OFFSET WHEELS(NOT ALUMINUM). i also bought some big joe 40 series tires, but i'm not sure when the are coming in. What i'm wondering is if there is anything else i need, like something that breaks alot or will correct any problems. This is just going to be for fun/bashing right now, but i may race it at some other point. Thanks for the ideas. Also, i was wondering which batteries are the best as far as run time and power. Epic Dreadnaught 3000mah, Team Orion 6-Cell 3000mAh Super Duty Plus, or Peak Performance Power Max Pro 6C 3000mAh. I know that they are all 3000mah, but some just plain work better. Thanks for the help!!
BTW, here it is without the velocity rims and big joe tires.

[tadium54]

I'd look at aluminum bulks, mainly for the front. other than that, id say youre in good shape

[guver]

On your batteries, If I'm not mistaken they are all the cheaper generic type cardboard cells and will perform nearly identical.

Unless any of them say gp or sanyo they might be made by the same (china) factory.

[throcte]

what batteries would you recommend? I would like to have something cost efective, like a 2 for like the packs i mentioned. but i'm open to suggestions

[guver]

Any gp 3300's are good.

[tadium54]

ya, check e-bay for good used cells

[cr250]

throcte - Check out SPC (http://www.specpointbatteries.com) batteries. They sell matched GP3300s and they also offer assembly. Great customer service and their shipping costs are honest.

[Maximillio1091]

i am also planning to buy an emaxx, i have 2 matched powermaxx 2400 packs and im looking to go stronger yet i do not want to spend too much and i do not want to set up the cells, which pack do u guys suggest would be the best

[guver]

Any gp 3300's are good.

any gp 3300 stick packs or assembled pack would be best if you don't want to assemble them.

[cr250]

Maximillio1091 - SPC (http://www.specpointbatteries.com) also sells assembled pairs of GP3300 battery packs specifically for an E-Maxx. They call them Twin Maxx Pacs (http://www.twinmaxxpacs.com) . The packs are assembled from matched GP3300 cells and then 2 packs with similar numbers are packaged together. They are priced really reasonable; a set of Twin Maxx Pacs is $74.95 and the shipping cost is good.

[starluckrc]

The powerpoles are ok. They will void the warranty on some brushless systems. You can get some contact bounce I guess. I used them before making the move to 4mm gold connectors. They get pretty bulky once you need to go above 45 amps. Crimping is prefered to soldering in high vibration environments because it is less likely to fail. Otherwise, soldering seems to be preferred for strength and performance reasons.

[fuzzy2133]

yea most Brushless ESC setups are comming with Tamiya connectors. kinda lame to me since most of us that go to Brushless change to better connectors.

When will they just put the ESC in without any connectors and mark battery +/-???

[maxxmanxxx]

Hey all-
Anyone know why the deans connector's burn up the stock esc.How could i use them and not burn it up.

[maxxmanxxx]

Oooo, I do wanna see your Maxx. But for the subject of this post, has anyone ever thought of making a winch for the thing? How could would that be? I'm thinking of maybe trying to fab one. For the moment I would just have to make a way to secure my p2k2 to the front of the vehicle (behind the bumper) and some wire or string or something to it, and then mount another esc to it. How cool would that be? Of course a way to make a little gear train or something to make it have more torque would be ideal, but I don't think there's a lot of room. Then again, w/ gear reduction, I could run a much smaller motor. Anyone ever hear of anything like this? I think it would look way badass, and be totally original, and ideally, at least somewhat functional, maybe not practical, but it would be cool.


Hi'' name's Chris, I'm knew here and just got a computer so don't mind my spelling.Here's what you do. Get a stock servo and take the circuit board off the bottom but dont dammage the two prongs that are to the electric motor.Cut out the stops on the large gear that protrudes from it.Then take a self taping screw and put it half way into the gear.Whith the two prongs that are at the end of the motor solder two wires.Then run them to a four cell reciever pack put in a three way switch and your set.The only problem is that the wire ,line etc, only comes out as fast as the servo goes but theres plenty of power to pick the truck off the ground. Good luck!!!

[Megazone23]

Well, I think I figured out why a properly crimped connection is better than a soldered connection.

In a properly crimped connection, the copper strands will shift around, reducing the void spaces and thus achieving the smallest cross-sectional area as the crimping tool clamps down. This is much like what happens when you bundle firewood. Then the full compression of the crimping tool will cause them to physically deform and fill in the void spaces even further as the wires are pushed agains each other, making the cross-sectional area nearly-homogeneous copper with little to no air voids between the wires. Thus, all the copper wire strands then act like a single copper wire.

In a soldered connection, there is no compression to physically force the wires to align themselves or minimize the voids between the wires. Likewise, the solder will fill the voids between the wire strands, creating a heterogeneous cross-section of copper wire and solder. This mix of materials is probably not as electrically efficient as that of only copper.

That's what I can figure anyway. :)

[maxxmanxxx]

Hey anyone out there know if the duratrax twin peak is a good charger if not what is a good twin charger.Reply greatly aprecciated

[Megazone23]

Hehe, you've actually mentioned two chargers. :)

I have the Intellipeak Twin Pulse, and I haven't had any problems with it so far. I got it off of eBay about a month ago.

The only other one I've heard of in that price range is the Dynamite Twin Peak, which is also supposed to be a really good charger. I have a Dynamite Prophet Plus, and it's been great as well. I believe the Twin Peak is just a 2-battery version of it.

I think of the two, I probably like the Dynamite Prophet Plus better. It's quieter, and it gives you audible signals that it's done. Then again, I don't know if that necessarily applies to the Twin Peak as well.

[maxxmanxxx]

Thanx for the quick reply and sorry about the mix up.Im probably going to go with the duratrax intellapeak also how long does that charger take to charge two 3000 pack's and I got the dreadnaught packs are they decent or are they going to be a waste because i am going to race with them.

[guver]

It may take about 45-50 minutes to charge those on the twin pulse. The batteries are not top of the line, but good to get you going. They are typical of the generic cardboard cells. If you get serious about racing you will probably want to move up to some gp batts and a more expensive charger, but I say go for it and start.

[maxxmanxxx]

Would it be a shorter with the dynamite twin mega peak. Because im going to need them quiker than that.And is there a charger that is under 100 bones that will do it in 15 20 mins.Thancks quver.

[metalry101]

You simply can't charge 3000 mah packs in that amount of time. To do it you'd need to hit them at 9+ amps. That'll fry even GP3300's, so generic 3000's are definately out of the question. Seriously, 35-40 minutes is as fast as you're gonna charge those batteries. The best dual battery charger on the market under 100 bones is the MRC Superbrain 969. It's definately lightyears ahead of the Duratrax.

[guver]

I just got rid of my best set-up was 2 digital pulse chargers with a power supply and would charge 2 3000 in less than 30 minutes.

Metalry is right, as a 20 minute charge rate is 3c. There's charger that will do that , but not really under 100 $. It is also not good for the batts as metalry says.

[tadium54]

Ya, 9 amps will kill a battery lol

[guver]

I am finding with the ice charger that I can charge at far higher rates than any of my other chargers , yet still keep a low batt temp. I will experiment with high rates and report in the ice forum soon.

So far I charge the cheapo generic cells with the charger maxxed out and the temps are less than 100 . It look very promising.

[Strata33]

Hey everyone, was really out of the hobby for the last 8 or so months but am back into it now and am looking to have loads of fun with it now that I have more freetime and now I know alittle about what I got into last May :)

The pic is my first try at painting a body..pretty happy with it since I taught myself everything while doing it. Can't wait to bash with the Bronco!

Thanks for the look and I'm glad to be back on this great board!

[Bta]

Ok guys I need your help before I start tearing things apart. I finally got my custom e maxx finished. Or so I thought. Question: What could I have put together wrong? ie Trans gears, rear end gears??? The rear tires go the correct direction but the front tires go in the wrong direction. Your input may save me some time as where to start. I'm thinking that I may have screwed up on the steel trans gear setup....maybe...seams like there is only one way to setup the rear end gear sets, so they should be fine...maybe...Those tranny gears on the other hand could be easy for me to screw up...hum?

[guver]

flip the front diff around ( backward or upside down.)

[metalry101]

^^^ Bingo.

I need to get my E-Maxx back up and running. I traded a bunch all of my running gear away for some stuff. I have had a blast with my LST lately, but I want to run my E-Maxx too...hmm...

[tadium54]

Do what guyver said. Mistakes can happen during a build-up

[fuzzy2133]

guyver is right, I did the same thing on a t-maxx .

[Bta]

:rolleyes: Thanx, I thought it would only go in one way. But I guess that's just with a stock e maxx. Man do I have my work cut out for me. I wish it would have been the tranny now. This american cnc is a real *****. Think I'll put it off for a bit. I just got it together. If I'd only have thought. Oh well I always did learn the hard way. Now there's a new meaning for Monster Truck!!! :(
Guess I got lucky with the other rear end. I could be working on both ends.
Thanx Again

[fuzzy2133]

it really is not your fault for 2 reasons. (1) when traxxas made the exploded view of the diff it is so small you can not see and (2) they really need to do what UE does to their aluminum diff cases, put a letter on the inside of the diff case so you know what side the ring gear needs to be on.

[rca]

hi, has anyone here tried using the alum bulkless conversion for t/e-maxx by atomrcproducts?it combines the diff and the bulkhead into 1 piece. is it good?What about their shock towers?Any comments on RC Raven's shock towers? which one better?Pls advise thanks.

[flipster]

Are you referring to the ones on http://www.atomrcproducts.com/tmaxxproducts.html ?

I'm not using them, but I may consider it, I got my E-Maxx out a few weeks ago, 2 sets of batteries later I snapped both rear bulkheads, got it fixed and managed to snap 2 new rear bulkheads within 5 min (heavy mostly aluminum E-Maxx). Integy bulks are on the way, but if THOSE break, I'll probably go with this. Has anyone broken the Integy bulkheads?

[Strata33]

ok..i'm posting this here because (1) I really need a new charger as I don't have one now (2) I run an E-Maxx (3) I really need help in choosing which charger to go with as I am now pretty confussed as to which charger I need and want.
I would like to beable to charge 2 sticks at once and want to have the charger discharge as well. I use mainly NiMh but do have a couple NiCd packs and usually stay around 3000mAh to 3300mAh.

I need all your help in pointing me in the right direction please...post what charger you use and what your recommendation is as to what charger I should look to get. I was looking at picking up the Super Brain 969 but now am not sure.

All help is greatly appreciated!

[Megazone23]

Flipster -- were the bulks you snapped the stock plastic bulks? Was it really cold out? Were you jumping? Hit something? I'm trying to imagine how the bulks would snap so easily, even with an aluminum setup.

Strata -- What is it about the SuperBrain 969 that you're not sure of now? The decision tree is usually pretty easy re: dual battery chargers, since there are relatively few of them. If features doesn't filter things out enough, it's usually price next. Is Li-Poly an issue for you? That would also affect your choices.

[Strata33]

Megazone - well lately I have just heard that it has an overheating problem and yes the Li-Poly was just brought to my attention yesterday. I was already to run out today and pick up the 969 but just wanted to make the right decision.

[guver]

959 is one of the few that will discharge. (only on one side though and only at 3 amps I think) I have never had my 969 to overheat. I also use it to it's max capacity frequently.

[rca]

flipster: yup thats the one i'm refering. my fear is that if the bulk breaks, i will have to replace the whole thing which cost a bomb. having bulk n diff separate is cheaper in a way when it comes to parts replacement.Although they offer lifetime guarantee, the waiting of parts and unable to play my truck is unbearable :p

[flipster]

Flipster -- were the bulks you snapped the stock plastic bulks? Was it really cold out? Were you jumping? Hit something? I'm trying to imagine how the bulks would snap so easily, even with an aluminum setup.

When I broke the 2nd set (stock plastic) it was around 45-50 degrees, not cold for central Indiana, but fairly cool I guess. My main running path is across my yard (3 acres) and I jump the driveway since it's raised probably 1.5ft from the main yard. The bulks are snapping right where the shock towers bolt in, basically whenever I jump and it lands on the bed part above the rear bumper. I've also bent the aluminum body posts so they're fairly hard landings.

With a good run I can jump the entire driveway and not touch any gravel so we're talking 2' of air and a 10-15' jump landing on the top rear corner of the bed at full speed with a 13# truck. I'm trying to make it bulletproof, haven't got there yet. :D

Strata: I've got a Duratrax twin pulse which is great if you can get past the fact that the fan started making noises and the AC power supply died within 1 month. Generally I use a Dynamite Prophet Plus charger, it doesn't discharge (the E-Maxx takes care of that nicely) or have a pretty readout, but it seems to do the trick. I'm still waiting for it to burn out since it gets extremely hot 4amp charging my 7-cell 3300s, but it keeps going nicely (it's not a twin charger, but you could buy 2 pretty cheaply). If it wasn't for the $$$ I've already spent, I'd probably pick up a SuperBrain 969, but I've spent probably $2k in 5 months on various RC vehicles so I need to start cutting corners somewhere.

[Strata33]

thanks for the help guys, i bought the SB 969 and so far today (first day) i am very happy so far. I've "cycled" 6 packs now and it is working great. very happy with the extra power my batteries are getting with this charger.

thanks for the input all

[Milesdavis314]

Quick question: What types of servo connecters can be used with the 3ch receiver that comes with the E-maxx? would i be abel to use "Hitec HS-311 Servo Standard S/JR/Z"

[Maxxcrazy]

Yes you can.

I'm not 100% but I don't think you can use Airtronics servos

Flipster-I've never broken an integy bulk

[JoshsTL01]

I used to have an E-Maxx before I sold it on e-bay. I had to replace an upper arm, a lower arm, a spur gear twice, and the body mount poles. It was made out of cheap plastic, and couldnt go off a jump without breaking, I was not impressed. Good speed though.

[tadium54]

never broke the arms, they were pretty strong, and I killed the spur a few times. Thats why RPM stuff is great- strong and well designed

[Bta]

Just for the record here's my two cents worth on the charger. I'm sold on the AstroFlight 112 deluxe. So much that I own two of them. It hardly even gets warm. I have owned several different chargers, not the 969 though. And, no I have'nt flipped over that front rear end yet. but I will as soon as I get over the idea of having to take apart what took me so long to get the parts for and put together the first time. :o
Keep On Truck N

[metalry101]

All modern servos are interchangable. Old-school Airtronics servos had a different wiring pattern, but their new stuff is industry standard. The only differences between all of the connectors is the little flange hanging off one side that ensures idiots don't plug them in backards :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: .

On a different note, anyone have a spare Torpedo chassis laying around? I kinda shattered the rear end of mine :D :D I don't have an ESC right now either. I had the Novak BL system, but I traded that craziness away, and I don't have the cash to buy another one ATM.

[Megazone23]

What didn't you like about the Novak BL system?

[metalry101]

I loved it, but I got an offer I couldn't refuse (traded my Twin Force and some stuff with the BL system away for a NIB LST (best deal I ever did, as much as I love my E-Maxx, the LST is the best truck I've ever driven, period, it's seriously an INCREDIBLE machine. Anyone looking to get a nitro monster should check out the LST for sure. It's the best truck I've ever driven)). Anyways...I plan on getting another Novak BL system for my E-Maxx when I get money, and it was hard to trade it away, but I'm happy I did, because I honestly could not be happier with my LST. I do miss my E-Maxx though...so when I get money she'll be getting rebuilt. Right now she needs a new chassis, wheels and tires, a rear knuckle (toasted a knuckle on the MGT, pulled the Traxxas one off the E instead of buying a new AE one), steering servo, and motor system. I plan on putting Mulchers or Zombie Maxxes on it, with the Novak HV BL system, and a new Torpedo chassis on it. As for the servo...most likely a 5625...but maybe a 5645 like I had before. I haven't decided whether I want insane speed or torque.

[Strata33]

speaking of rebuilding and such...i was wondering what is the one hop up you'd get first for your truck (e-maxx). I am pondering many different hop ups but not sure what direction to go in. strength, performance and/or even looks. post what is your most important hop up on a stock e-maxx.

[Bta]

I believe metalry really likes his LST! :) When it comes to screw sets, is there such a thing as ones that the head won't strip out on them? :( I was attempting to unassemble and flip over that front rear end and run into a counter sunk flat hex head machine scrw that just refuses to see things my way. :mad: How can I get this screw out of my alum. chassis? :confused: My kingdom for a set of screws that won't strip out. ;) :cool:

[fuzzy2133]

I believe metalry really likes his LST! :) When it comes to screw sets, is there such a thing as ones that the head won't strip out on them? :( I was attempting to unassemble and flip over that front rear end and run into a counter sunk flat hex head machine scrw that just refuses to see things my way. :mad: How can I get this screw out of my alum. chassis? :confused: My kingdom for a set of screws that won't strip out. ;) :cool:

get out the dremmel and very carefully cut a slot in the head so you can use a flat head screw driver to remove the lousy screw. Good Luck.

heat treated steel screws are much stronger than stainless screws. I have been using www.hexcrews.com with a lot of sucess.

[flipster]

speaking of rebuilding and such...i was wondering what is the one hop up you'd get first for your truck (e-maxx). I am pondering many different hop ups but not sure what direction to go in. strength, performance and/or even looks. post what is your most important hop up on a stock e-maxx.

The #1 thing I would do is buy a few sets of 7-cell batteries and Gorrillamaxx straps. That has made for the biggest fun-to-Phil factor of any of my upgrades (and I'm sure I've spent $8-900 on my E). I got Pro-Match 3300s and with the exception of one poor solder, I've been VERY happy with them.

Right after that I would look into the RPM product line starting with bulkhead braces then rpm skid plates. I made the noob mistake of putting tons of aluminum on mine and even though it's super tough, great looking, and seems to jump more stable (please someone explain why my 13# E jumps more evenly than my revo) it's cost a ton of money and just moved the weak points. The only Traxxas plastic I have left is the front bulks and the chassis itself. If I were you, I'd also get about 5 sets of rear body posts, that's the part I broke the most and it's a nice, easy, cheap part to replace. Now my body posts hold up (mostly, they've bent some) but the rear plastic bulkheads break. Integy bulks will be installed tomorrow.

If you do decide to go Aluminum, check out rcraven on eBay, I've been very happy with service and quality of their parts.

[tadium54]

strata- I would go with either aluminum bulkheads with good hinge pins or aluminum bulks. Those are the 2 parts that I broke the most.

bta- use a dremel, then ditch the stock screws- they stink. invest in a good quality set of tools and a decent set of crews and you'll be in good shape

[Bta]

Who makes a good set of tools? "Snap-On" and what tool would you use in the dremel for the screw. Also I heard to late that stainless steel was very soft, and thanx for the screw site. Does sears make those reverse screw out thingys small enough for r/c screws? Wish that I would'nt have put thread lock on it now! Need to think ahead a little better. Oh well.

[tadium54]

I have OFNA, Trinity, AE and Bolink drivers. The get the multi pack from OFNA. its probably your best bet

[fuzzy2133]

I have AE drivers and have only broken the tips from dropping them. "Snap-On" tools will be over kill for our use. There is a RC company who used spring steel (same steel that car springs are made of) to make the drivers for their tools however I can not remember who it is.

Use a cutting wheel in the dremel and take your time. the screw removal things tend to be too big.

[tadium54]

and they can also strip them more(the craftsman screw out)

tools are universal in this hobby, so buy good stuff once and you'll be in good shape

[PCC]

There is a RC company who used spring steel (same steel that car springs are made of) to make the drivers for their tools however I can not remember who it is.
Hudy

[tadium54]

expensive stuff, but if you're in it for the long run, could be worth it

[fuzzy2133]

I just broke one of my AE drivers thrying to remove a drive cup pin on a Tranny. Who's idea in the factory was it to use red lock tight? :mad: guess I need some more heat and I am getting a hudy driver. :rolleyes:

[tadium54]

you broke it on the set screws on the diffs? were they stock?

[Bta]

Ok guys Hudy it is. Now tell me what the difference is in a regular hex drv. and a ball hex. :confused:

[fuzzy2133]

Ok guys Hudy it is. Now tell me what the difference is in a regular hex drv. and a ball hex. :confused:

A regual hex driver is straight at the tip. A ball driver has what looks like a ball with hex sides to it, this allows you to work at a slight angle.

I actually broke my 5/64 hex driver attempting to remove the pin on a out put drive cup on a MGT tranny. Some one thought it would be a good idea to use some red locktight on that pin. I heard a crunch, no more resistance and all I had in my hand was the handle.

think a 200watt soldering iron is hot enough to melt red locktight?

[tadium54]

get regular hex. the ball hex will strip out too easily. if you have the cash, go for them both(i think hudy is the only maker of ball hexes actually). but if i had to make a decision, i'd go with the regular ones

[PCC]

get regular hex. the ball hex will strip out too easily. if you have the cash, go for them both(i think hudy is the only maker of ball hexes actually). but if i had to make a decision, i'd go with the regular ones
Ball hexes are weaker than the non-ball hexes because the standard Allens do not have material removed to make the ball.

I used to have a set of L-shaped Allens that had the ball-hex on the long end. This is because you have a lot less leverage using the short-end as a handle against the ball-hex end. OTOH, the long handle is used as leverage against the straight hex side where it's stronger to be able to take it without breaking.

[maxxmanxxx]

Alright. Heres my delema.I just heard that the 969 cant charge the dreadnaught batts and the twin pulse only chargers at 3.5 amps.False peaks,overheating power supply's etc... Ill i want is a dual charger that can actually do what its supposed to without getting the crap beat out of it.I've been looking towerds the dynamite twin peak.All i want is a dual charger that is preety good but costs around 120$$ please help me im desperate.By the way if it wasnt for rcca i wuold be in a insane asylum .Thanx for keeping me on the strait and narrow.

[metalry101]

The 969 can do the Dreadnought packs. It'll only do them at 2.5 amps each on AC because the included PS is a cheapo unit, but it'll charge them for sure. That's far and away the best dual battery charger on the market. The PS is cheap, but all chargers that come with a PS come with a cheap one to keep the cost down. They're not gonna include a high end unit because anyone who wants/needs one will want to pick their own, or most likely already have one.

Another option is to pick up a couple 959's or Piranha Digital's. They're 50 bux each, so 2 of either of those would be the same price as the 969, but they've got internal power supplies, so you wouldn't have any worries. I personally like the Piranha Digital. I've had mine for over 3 years now and never had a problem with it. For the money I think it's the best charger on the market hands down. Others prefer the 959 over it because it'll do 4.5 amps on AC and DC, whereas the Piranha is limited to 3 amps on AC. It will do 5 amps on DC, so if I'm in a hurry I just pop the hood on my Jeep and hook my charger up to my battery. Anyways...check out the 959 and Piranha Digital, as they're both solid buys at 50 bux. You could even get one of each.

[maxxmanxxx]

Thanks alot metalry101.Greatly appreciate the reply.Oh ya i read in a different forum that the 969 false peaks is that true.If you had a choice between the 969 and the dynamite twin peak [not dualie].What would you choose.
thanks bro.

[guver]

Yep, and the twin pulse will do them faster than the 969. The 969 is very convienient. if you get in a hurry you can run on DC or just buy a power supply . That way it will charge 2 batts at 4.5 amps each.

[tadium54]

I'd get the pirahana digital peak. its a very nice charger. i plan on getting 2 or so

[maxxmanxxx]

but ive herd the software in the 969 is the same as the 959 and thats why it false peaks overheats etc...So to anyone who has the dynamite twin peak and super brain throw me a freakin bone here which one should i use im goin crazy.
Thank you for all your info.

[tadium54]

I doubt you'll find someone with both chargers. as much as I'm not a fan of MRC, the 969 looks like a better charger

[metalry101]

I personally would not buy the Dynamite charger. Not that I think it's junk, but I wouldn't spend my money on it. I will probably buy another Piranha Digital, and that's what I would suggest.

[maxxmanxxx]

Thanx.

[maxxmanxxx]

And what power supply would work best with the 969 and is around 50/60$$$.I think this site and the suport is the best!!!!!RCCA rocks!!!

[tadium54]

save up some cash and get one from radio shack. 90 bucks for 30 amps I think. looks pretty good

[guver]

but ive herd the software in the 969 is the same as the 959 and thats why it false peaks overheats etc...So to anyone who has the dynamite twin peak and super brain throw me a freakin bone here which one should i use im goin crazy.
Thank you for all your info.


I dont have the dynamite, but have 959's and 969's . They aren't exactly the same, but very very similar. You are correct about the charger (969) suffering the same pre-mature stopping as the 959 does. It does not false peak however (depending on what you mean by false peak) and it does not overheat.

[mp7maxx]

you should get the 969 as much as i hate mrc the dynamite cant discharge

[guver]

I think I agree with mp7 get the 969 and either another stock ps to add together or a seperate cosel 13 amp power supply. (150 watt) they should be about $39.00

[Bta]

WOW! For the Hudy #190100 8 pc. hex driver set at Stormer go's for $90.00 plus shipping.List is $112.00 Should be some darn good tools for that price. Hexcrews.com carry a quality screw set to go with those drivers. My pocket hurts! :eek:

[tadium54]

Hudy tools have always been expensive. Buy they are the best, so with tools in the rc industry, you get what you pay for.

[Maxxcrazy]

I went back to independant to continue my racer maxx project.
Heres the new chassis that still needs to be finished
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0187.jpg

Here it is with its old chassis
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0186.jpg

[slid'in sideway]

Hay Maxxcrazy,
That new chassis you are making for your race E-maxx, is that silver carbon fiber or aluminum? I't hard to tell what it is by the picture.
Good luck with the project. I'd like to see more pic's when you get her done.
slid'in sideway

[tadium54]

Ya, thats an awesome chassis. Looks aluminum to me

[Maximillio1091]

Hey everyone, I am looking to get an Emaxx and i would like to know what the top speed on a stock one is with different kind of batteries. Top Speed on a pair of 6 cell 2400's maybe??

[tadium54]

23 mph. about 32 or so with 7 cell packs

[Maxxcrazy]

The chassis is aluminum. .160" Aluminum 6061 to be exact. Its in the process of being milled down in certain areas to loose weight.

[maxxmanxxx]

HEY all i supose im gonna go with the 969 .Anyone know when unlimited eng is going to get some more of those steel idler gears i need them bad.Youd think traxxas would make them but nope so hopefully ue gets them in stock again.I have had my e-maxx since christmas and have only drove it once this sucks but getting the charger next week so ill atleast ill be ready for summer.

Thanx again for feedback greatly apreciated.

[tadium54]

traxxas has a hop up idler gear. check it out. as for UE, look on ebay for them or the other company that is now out of bussiness that used to make them. I wish I could remember there name

[maxxmanxxx]

ya but that is the input shaft that goes on top i need the two sepret ones below that part no.3996 there the first thing that you have to replace when you go bl.Ithought i could get away with extra sets of plastic ones ya if you want to replace them every run but thanks for the help.

[cheerwhiner]

replaced the u joint stuff for the first time yesterday. had no idea how to do it with the kit supplied instructions= had to look on their website. Not cool but got it done. Cheap parts at least (i mean in cost not quality).

Looking forward to some 70 degree weather today to go bashing, although it may be muddy. Been a while since the emaxx has gotten dirty, just been testing in the driveway.

[metalry101]

^^^I'm jealous. I want to run mine again. Anyone have a spare EVX laying around or anything?

[tadium54]

Yeah metalry, I need one too

[guver]

I have one for $89, like new.

[tadium54]

hey guver- taking trades?

[guver]

No, sorry.

[maxxmanxxx]

Burned it up and tossed it sorry.

[tadium54]

ok guver. if you change your mind let me know

[Bta]

I would like your opinion on the Gecko II truck kit. It is a great looking piece of equipment. Really expensive too. Give me your thoughts please. :)

[Maxxcrazy]

The gecko isn't for the E Maxx, its for the clod.

[Bta]

It looks like a much better setup than the e maxx. All though it dosen't look like it would take the bashing that the e maxx can. But it would make a great racer and crawler. So how about some input? Or do I need to go to a different chat room?

[tadium54]

try the clod fourm here. you might get a better response

[vintage_steeps]

I have a nice txt i would trade for a nice e maxx
MISS MY EEEE MAXXX

[maxxmanxxx]

is there anybody that knows what gearing to use when you put clod tires on the maxx.i had them left over from my old clod and tonight i found them in my closet and tossed them on for kicks.They have also been on my tmaxx pro15 but that basicly killed my motor and i dont want to do that to my emaxx so any help is appreciated also is the rrp 65 steel spur gear and duel disk slipper a good buy and will the metal to metal pinion/steel spur cause radio glitching.

[metalry101]

No, that's not a good buy. Robinson makes a slipper setup with a plastic outer ring that is specifically for the E-Maxx. That's a better buy, but honestly, the stock spurs hold up fine usually. As for gearing, I'd probably start with 15T's and go from there.

[tadium54]

Listen to metalry- he knows his stuff. And as for your question, the stock system is fine for now

[cheerwhiner]

did some serious bashing yesterday at a track that is at a family fun park. onlookers were like "wow did you break it?" every time i rolled over at 18mph.

I said nope. It flipped to its correct side and kept going.

There were questions about where to get one, how much, etc. Since I used to work in a hobby store catering to beginner r/c people, it was easy answers.

THen I pulled out my tc4 for practice for a race this weekend and got "dang thats fast."

Just don't wreck in front of little kids, they do laugh at ya!

I love this truck. I will never sell it.

[tadium54]

Oh, you can have my truck....when you pry it from my dead fingers! lol. I don't think I'm going to sell this one or trade it unless I get a really good offer

[flipster]

I just switched to Deans plugs and I'm noticing that my motors are getting WAY hotter than I ever recall them getting before. Has anyone else noticed anything similar to this? Do heatsinks really help? Should I start chopping up the body? Install a radiator? ;-)

I run 7-cell pro-match batts, stock gears, and my E is mostly aluminum so I'm sure that combination isn't helping, but I don't think I'll ever go back to plastic or 6-cells...
As a side note, are the alternate engine choices worth the $86 or should I just stick with the stockers or save up for brushless or go to drill motors?

[maxxmanxxx]

Well i went out and bought the 969 and works great thanks for the info. but i got home and striped the screw hole out on my motor so hopefuly ill use a 540 size screw and that should be good my lhs told me that thats what there using so ill give it a try but any info would be good

[tadium54]

flipster- heat sinks will help yes. choping the body would help too. a radiator would be an interesting feet, but its probably overkill. as for the motors, the stock or brushless ones are the only way to go. the trinity and reedy ones burn up pretty quickly, and you can't use 7 cell packs. if its overheating, try droping a tooth on the pinions to compensate for the extra weight of aluminum

[maxxmanxxx]

i went to my lhs and got the 5-40 bolink screws and they work great.ialso picked up some lithium greese for the spur nice and quiet no more gear noise .the maxx loves to do wheelies but the rear bumper doesnt o well. i let my little bro take a turn at the wheel and he hit a tree at full speed and sheered a bumper screw dang these things are tuff.thanks metalry for the gearing it was right on.i love jumping curbs my clod never did that but the maxx is a whole nother ball game.
thanks everyone for the info.

[guver]

Is it ok to grease the pinion and spur gear?

[guver]

bad question... Is it good to do it?

[punkrockracer]

Why can't I seperate my diff housing??? Wanting to put in a spool...got the diff out, but the damn thing with come open..I just can't get the two halves to come apart!!! Why, how, what, when do I have to do?

[maxxmanxxx]

i think so the grease i got is plastic safe and it has teflon in it.got it from tower .it shouldnt be bad ive ran it at least 9 times and i just took the spur cover off and virtualy no wear and the grease prevents extra heat buildup from gear friction.

[metalry101]

I don't think that adding lube to the gears makes any difference. I suppose it could help a bit with the noise, but where I drive (or will drive if I ever get my E running again), it would only attract dust and dirt and make it worse rather than better.

About that diff housing that won't come apart. Are you sure you removed the screws holding it together? What about the collar that slides over the front end and keeps it from rotating all over the place under load? Forgetting either of those would make it rather difficult to pull the cases apart.

[punkrockracer]

Both screws and the collar are gone...still wont give, well...opens about 4mm and is stuck from there.

Edit: Got it, there was suction or something from the grease in there, just took a little more elbow grease than I was comfortable with. BTW, can I use epoxy to lock the diffs, since I kinda want to save the spool for my 2.5.

[oggydog]

can I use a t-maxx chassis for my e-maxx I have been looking and I think it is possible to put the shift servo where the throttle servo goes and the steer is in the same place
not sure though any ideas?

[maxxmanxxx]

oggydog, you could definetly do that just get the battery cups from team associated they sell them at tower thats what im doing to my tmaxx pro 15 for my little brother a dremel tool helps to but not reely needed though

[maxxmanxxx]

punkrockracer, did you take the universal knukles off if not that then the bearings are just really stuck just keep trying good luck

[oggydog]

2 sets of the battery cups right or one set and is this the chassis to use http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDR4&P=7

[maxxmanxxx]

yup thats for the 2.5 but that will work just as well and youll also need a set of center drive shafts for the tmaxx i think or the e maxx let me check