E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[maxxmanxxx]

yup the emaaxx drives are the ticket i thought the tmaxx frame was longer but nope

[maxxmanxxx]

its the tranny

[oggydog]

thanks a lot maxxmanxxx I can't wait to start the project !!!

[tadium54]

Look for posts by a guy named Soya. He did the same thing to his e-maxx. you'll need to drill a new spot for the shifter servo, but other than that, you should be ok

[Bta]

The T maxx chassis has risers that lift the transmission about 3/8" higher than the E maxx has. You may have some trouble. :)

[cheerwhiner]

getting ready to put my first hop ups on the maxx, and they will be steering upgrades. I already own an mx-3 radio, so I will get this receiver to go into the emaxx so I can use it on the truck:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000455667&I=LXCBC7&P=K

However a better steering servo would probably be appropriate, so I'll get an HS645MG unless anybody has a better idea

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000455667&I=LXUZ89&P=K

IN terms of a servo saver, what do i need to know? Should I get this guy or is the one included with the emaxx OK?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000455667&I=LXS361&P=K

the days of just bashing the maxx are over, time to race. For tires I know what to get, and that is the ONLY other thing I need to worry about

God I HATE traxxas electronics, glad they outsourced the ESC to Novak. That will stay put until a brushless upgrade later on= but even with brushless, you still need to steer!!

[punkrockracer]

Why did pro-line discontinue their steering kit? Are there any alternatives, wanting to get a little better steering out of my Maxx for less than $75 (servo included), so what do you guys suggest?

[tadium54]

cheer- that stuff looks pretty good. the servo saver from kimbrough will be great.

punk- i don't think there is another steering kit availiable. look at an inexpensive servo with good torque and a better servo saver. that will be better than stock

[guver]

I just had to put that title cuz there's one w/ 16 cells.

I just got done putting together a new/used maxx with 17 cells this time. I'm using the stock evx and 19 or 21 turn motors wired in series this time. My batts are under the chassis and a few are on top this time in the regular position.

Have to now figure out which is the best way to charge them all up for now. Using generic 3000 cells. The idea is to use higher voltage and a little less amps to get away with cheap cells and stock evx and skinny wires.

I will post findings when I get them all charged up and hot off the charger to check the max voltage........

[slid'in sideway]

Man, thats a lot of juice( 20.4 Volts ) to be running through that EVX !!!!

[guver]

Yes, I knew the limit was around 23-24 volts. I just peaked them all and they are 23.8 I will run it in a few minutes and see.

[mp7maxx]

what about drill motors i found one that needs 24 volts and weighs a pound but pumps out 2 hp now i just need to find an esc that can handle it.

[guver]

I just tested a KA6 perfex and it is max 29 volts. It was about 22-23 cells. That is gonna be nice but heavy. That is the esc I am going to use with series wired motors.

[Bugs Buggy]

Hey, does anyone race E-MAXX trucks in an electric monster truck class at your local track??? If so, what are the rules they go by??? And what would be the logical set of hopups many of the racers would run???

Unfortuneately, my local track only has gas powered monster truck races (those things are nuts, during open practice they simply run over my poor B4 if it has flipped over :rolleyes: ) and I have no guidelines to go by... I'm thinking about getting an E-Maxx anyways, and hopping it up with Proline bow tie 40 tires and the appropriate wheels (I think you can use the velocity HDs with it too if you get a hub converter...?????), a dodge Powerwagon body :D, 2 trinity wild motors (i think 19 turns is the limit for the stock speed control) and perhaps some titanium turnbuckles....perhaps if people see one at the track more will show up and we can race them...

But then again, I could get a 4wd buggy..... :)


:cool:

Bugs

[metalry101]

First off, don't even look at those Trinity motors ever again. They're junk. Stick with the stock motors and run dual 7 cell packs. Lighten the truck up as much as you can and run good packs (3300's or better would be ideal if you can afford them). That'll get you an easy 30 mph, more if you can lighten the truck up enough to be able to gear it up. Then just practice a bunch and as long as it's not a huge track you should be able to be fairly competitive in the nitro monster class. If it's a real big track you might consider going brushless, as that will match the speed of a nitro, and will get you better run times to boot due to the increased efficiency. Also, BL motors are like nitro motors. At neutral the only drag is drivetrain binding, so you can coast a bit to make battery packs last even longer.

[slid'in sideway]

Yes I agree with Metalry101, stay away from those trinity motors. Being into monster trucks for over ten years I have found that weight is the biggest thing you have to over come with an electric MT. Most of the biggest weight comes from two main sources, the batteries and wheels and tires. As far as batteries theirs not much you can do about that unless you go to li-po's, those things for now are a whole differant discussion ( the pro's and con's of that type of battery ). So that leaves the wheels and tires, the regular size proline bow ties and velocity rims are good setup and one of the lightest. Other things, if you are mostly racing then a lot of the stock parts, bulk heads and chassis braces may be all you need. I know some may disagree with me on that point, but if you want to put on aluminum you have to decide if you want to haul around the extra weight of those parts. You have to remember every ounce counts on an electric. Other good things would be titanium tie rods, hinge pins and pivot balls. Also you can cut down on the mount of rotating mass in the trans if you lock the truck into second gear and get rid of the shifting servo. Back in the E-Maxx forums V1.0 on pages 49, 50, and 61 it shows what I did with my trans. I hope that this may help you out.

[tadium54]

Locking it into 2nd and removing 1st gear is a great way to be quicker overall. I'd agree that bulks and chassis braces are the only things you really need to be aluminum. titanium tie rods and hinge pins are a good to consier too. You could drop the front diff and its remaining parts if you wanted to experiment. Other than that, check out the traxxas drivetrain parts and replace the stock ones with the option parts from them

[oggydog]

Anyone try the new Novak Super Duty XR High Voltage ESC just orders one can't wait to see how much better it really is 400 amp 6v/3amp bec sounds good.

[metalry101]

I ran one for a while in the Twin Force. It is definately a very very nice speed control. I wish I still had it because my E-Maxx is parked atm.

[maxxmanxxx]

hey, out there to anyone who helped me i appreciated the help. im going to quit rc for a while and just get my life situated and plus i dont have my brand new e maxx any more. yesterday i was playing with it and some latino gang busted me up and stole my sh** so im going to work and hopefully save up enough to get me and my girlfriend out of this town so i can get my life started.

[tadium54]

that sucks man. good luck to you and best wishes

[slid'in sideway]

Hay E-Maxxers,
Here's a new project I've been working on for quite a while. Some of you might remember my last one, Project: slimline Trans. Well this one is the Two Gear Trans. I hope the pictures come through here. I'd like to know what you all think.

[maxxmanxxx]

its all good theyl get what they deserve. i talked to four police officers in my town and they said to take care of it myself because they have been trying to get them out of town for the past 6 months so ive got a couple of people on my back and it will be settled this sunday at the park but i will get my emaxx back and thanks alot tadium54.
to be continued...........

[tadium54]

good luck man. gangs like that suck. hope you get your truck back

[metalry101]

Best of luck man. That sucks beyond words.

[slid'in sideway]

Maxxmanxxx,
Hay man did you get your truck back? Hope you did and hope that everything came out OK. Haven't read anything from you in a while, just wondering.

[Quinton]

Anyone have an EMaxx
FOR SALE?

I'm looking for one for my friends boy.
quinton4@cox.net
I don't check in here too often.
Thanks

[PCC]

I finally figured out what I want to do with my original T-Maxx that keeps breaking on me: convert it into an E-Maxx! I already have most of the parts to do it, I just need to get a Novak Super Duty XR ESC and I'm good to go! What do you guys think?

[metalry101]

Don't buy the Super Duty XR.

It's a very very very nice ESC, but for like 100 bucks more you could have an HV BL system.

[slid'in sideway]

Not sure if anyone is interested, but have is another pic of my project, what I call Two Gear Trans E.

[PCC]

Don't buy the Super Duty XR.

It's a very very very nice ESC, but for like 100 bucks more you could have an HV BL system.
I thought about that but can the stock transmission handle the power? I'd hate to do all this only to be constantly stripping the plastic gears in the tranny every time I take it out. No, I'm not about to invest in the aluminum gears, though I would probably do the UE idler gears.

[metalry101]

I think it would hold up pretty well. I didn't run mine much before I traded it away but I hope to get another HV BL system soon since my Maxx is now a one piece truck again. I only toasted second gear, but that's the first gear I've ever stripped in the tranny and I've had my E-Maxx for something like 4 years now, so it's been hammered on a lot.

[maxxmanxxx]

well igot my truck back after a night in the pokey (city jail) part of atleast the truck anyway they still have the transmitter but thats ok ill get another one. We actualy had to get 3 cars of people to get it back but in the end thats all it takes atleast the truck isnt broken everything is in the truck inc batts there was also two people were put in the hospital and the cops were there the whole time they only put me in the jail that night was to keep me from going back to there house :o :mad: :D :cool:

[metalry101]

Ya...sounds like you definately need to move way from there man, far, far, far away.

Congratulations on getting your truck back though, that's excellent news! Hopefully it stays in your possession from now on.

[cheerwhiner]

glad to hear it

ok so i just installed the hs-645mg servo and i'm kicking myself for not doing this upgrade earlier. so much easier to control the truck. why doesn't traxxas give us a better servo with the RTR!!>!?!?!?!?


i'll be drivng this truck a lot more now :D

[slid'in sideway]

Maxxmanxxx,
Glad to hear you got your truck back, even better to hear that you're ok. And that is really the main thing.

[Megazone23]

If you're truly interested in going brushless, you should check out RC-Monster.com. They have a great forum there with lots of people who have gone brushless. Great advice there, too. I've learned a lot. Now I know what I'm going to do if I ever decide to drop that kind of jack on upgrading this truck. :D

BTW -- Maxxmanxxx, glad to hear you were able to get your truck back, and as has been said already, more glad that you're okay. Just remember, material things can be replaced, but you're a little harder. Be safe! :)

[slid'in sideway]

Hay Y'all,
I've got one picture of my modified E and I decided on a slightly differance name that I believe is more appropriate, I,m just going to call it the " Mutant-E "
If this picure is veiwable then you should be able to see more of the trans.

[cheerwhiner]

man you have got to get a better camera. it looks cool though. how light is it? that is one thing i want to do is make the truck as light as possible. I am considering dremeling out the sides of the chassis to free up some weight, although it wouldn't be much. i did that on my tc4 and tt-01 in the past.

[slid'in sideway]

Hay cheerwhiner,
Yeah, I know my web cam sucks. I've got another picture, hope this one is a little better. You might be able to see the trans better. I'm not sure what the weight of the truck will be, but I'm guessing without the batteries maybe low sevento high six pound range. but there are still a couple of things I can do to get a few more grams off of it.

[Maxxcrazy]

Nice tranny. What gears did you use? I might be interested in making one for my racer since I hate having to swap my slimline from one car to another.

[slid'in sideway]

Hi Maxxcrazy,
Sorry I didn't get back you sooner. This weekend was used for getting the new car completely put together and getting the electronics set up. I did get a chance to start some minor preliminary testing. At this point there are small issues in the reliablity department that need to be addressed as well as some issues with weight distribution.
Since I'm still working on the system I really wouldn't want you to go and build one, knowing that there might be a underlying problem that would still need attention to make it reliable.
The good news is that the weight of the car, weighing it on my postal scale, without the batteries is 6 pounds, 6 ounces. I might be able to get maybe two more ounces off the caggy(car & buggy), but I think that will be about it.
Once I get the reiablity issues sorted out I'll be more then happy to give you a parts list and the trans housing dimensions of the center spooled diff set up.

slid'in sideway

[Milesdavis314]

Hey guys,
I posted a while back about problems i was having wiht my slipper clutch. SOmeone recomennded replacing teh pegs and/or sanding down teh existing pegs to increase friction. I did this and found no improvement. I decided to just get the Robinson Racing Slipper and installed it recently. I again found no improvement. Basically, each slipper or fix i ahve tried has worked for a bit and tehn jsut worn away. (When I nail the throttle I hear the motors go but the truck doesnt move.. Wheelies arent even close to a possibility. I'm using decent batteries. 3300 6-cell and everying on teh drive-train is stock. The only upgrades I've made on the truck are aluminum skid plates and body rear body mount.) What could be cause this to ahppen? I've been driving on grass because spring is just starting up here ( don't knwo if that makes a difference) In dirt, the same thing occurs but with slightly less slippage... also, teh nut on the slipper clutch is DEFINITELY tight enough. Thanks for your help!

-Jim

[metalry101]

Are your tires glued? I know when I bought my truck (like 4 years ago, literally), the tires weren't glued and would spin inside the rim instead of grabbing and throwing the truck over backwards. Maybe that's the problem?

[oggydog]

might be getting stuck between 1st and 2nd gear I recently had the problem with my e-maxx the servo was not throwing the shifter far enough.also make sure the axle pins are seated in the hex hubs.

[guver]

Hey guys,
I posted a while back about problems i was having wiht my slipper clutch. SOmeone recomennded replacing teh pegs and/or sanding down teh existing pegs to increase friction. I did this and found no improvement. I decided to just get the Robinson Racing Slipper and installed it recently. I again found no improvement. Basically, each slipper or fix i ahve tried has worked for a bit and tehn jsut worn away. (When I nail the throttle I hear the motors go but the truck doesnt move.. Wheelies arent even close to a possibility. I'm using decent batteries. 3300 6-cell and everying on teh drive-train is stock. The only upgrades I've made on the truck are aluminum skid plates and body rear body mount.) What could be cause this to ahppen? I've been driving on grass because spring is just starting up here ( don't knwo if that makes a difference) In dirt, the same thing occurs but with slightly less slippage... also, teh nut on the slipper clutch is DEFINITELY tight enough. Thanks for your help!

-Jim

It may be very simple like most slipper clutches. For some reason lots of peaople don't quite understand what is happening. I would try removing one of the peices (that take up thickness and friction) of metal discs and then whatever is holding the clutch apart needs to be reduced in width. In the case of the e-maxx it is usually the spur gear itself. (the pegs sgould be wider than the gear) Hope you understand what I'm saying here.

[flipster]

I would also double check your pinion gears on the motors. I had some of the set screws back out slightly on me and the gears would still catch, but not 100%.

[Milesdavis314]

Thanks for the help guys... i fixed teh problem... First of all, the tires werent glued so I glued tehm. Secondly one of teh screws holding teh clutch together had vibrated off so i replaced it and used threadlocker. Im not sure which one fixed it but y truck is wokring great now... Thanks again!

-Jim

[metalry101]

Glad to hear it's running right again!

[cheerwhiner]

before i tear my emaxx apart, i need advice:

when i start from a stand still and accellerate, either in first or second gear, the truck will take off as usual then it will stall and slow for a second and then continue as normal.

thoughts?? I am going to take it apart, clean it and see i notice anything, clean the motors (and thus look at gears too) just wondering if anybody knows whats up. if its the esc causing the trouble, i'll just get a brushless system and justify it to myself. lol

but it is working at least

[metalry101]

Now that is odd...almost sounds like your batteries? Or maybe the ESC gets a bit hot when you launch and it limits the current for a second. I dunno...What gearing are you running?

[cheerwhiner]

its all stock except a new steering servo, and this happened afer installing the servo last week

[emaxxfool]

I have an emaxx with 18 tooth pinions and a 64 tooth spur
does anyone know how fast my truck is actually going at full speed using 1500 stick packs 6 cells a piece
im 15 and short on money and cant afford a radar gun

[tadium54]

about 21-23 mph probably

[Bta]

Well I'm thinking about selling my e-maxx. Transmitter, receiver, chargers etc...Everything but batts. It's all like new with maybe 2 hours run time on it. What do you think that I could get for it? No trades, I really need the money.
tomarrowood@hotmail.com

[guver]

I just got mine all put back together stock and am going to sell it too.with batts and charger.

[tadium54]

if you want to unload your evx for a fair price, lmk. i need a working one. actually, so does metalry

[Quinton]

Email me, my freind is still looking for an EMaxx for his boy to drive with us. Send pics and price if you have them.
quinton4@cox.net
Thanks

[Bta]

Pictures of my e-maxx are on page 49 of this forum, I believe. It's the silver one on the right. As for the price, I gave with the shipping $425, and of course I would like to recover as much of that as I can.

[guver]

I just got mine all put back together stock and am going to sell it too.with batts and charger.

My e-maxx will be 199 rtr. More with the batts and charger.

The evx is $89

[Quinton]

Send pics of above email

[oggydog]

The T maxx chassis has risers that lift the transmission about 3/8" higher than the E maxx has. You may have some trouble. :)

I think it is the other way around the e-maxx is lifted more then the t-maxx not sure might just try it but hate it invest a lot .

[slid'in sideway]

Well after the preliminary I had found that the lite weight shaft I had in the gear hub of the spooled center diff just wasn't strong enough and even though I put in a longer allen head set screw then came with the hub I still couldn't get it tight enough to stay screwed onto the shaft.
I've made a new steel shaft for the trans and it does weigh a little more then the old one but, there aren't issues of tearing it up or twisting this new one. And now the allen set screws of the hub and the pinion are thread locked.
After making the first runs with the car and seeing the way the back of the car sat down even accelerating at a slower rate I decided to check the weight bias, front and back. I've found I had about 35 front and 65 back which I thought was way to much for this E.
I turned the trans around so the motor was more forword and got the weight bias to be about 53 front and 47 back( I trying to get 50/50 )but, I thought this might be a little better.
Today was the first time I took it out side to drive the car. Being so light and low to the ground it seams to handle pretty good. i wasn't sure how the brushless motor would handle the gear ratio of the new trans, a 72 spur and a 10 pinion. I thought with that ratio it might be geared too high. But I guess I was wrong. I figured I'd try a speed run and pulled trigger on it. It didn't pull the front wheels immediately off the ground, but at about 15 to 20 feet out they started coming off the ground and that was it. It slid down the steet on the body posts ( no I didn't have the body on ) another 15 to 20 feet. When it flipped it broke my anntena tube holder, I had that mounted to the rear body post mount, and that ended my day. But at least to this point I know the trans is working ok so far. I'll have more updates on this project as time goes on. Next I'll be taking it to the track to see how that goes.
slid'in sideway

[Maxxcrazy]

What gears did you use? If you used a gear off of the stock top shaft and one off of the stock lower shaft, that would give the same tranny ratio, since the idler gear doesn't count.

[slid'in sideway]

Hay Maxxcrazy,
What I used for the trans was a piece of 1/4" x 2" drill rod, a gear hub adapter from robot zone( inside I.D. 1/4", it also has a 3/8" O.D. flange ), which I attached a Robinson Racing large clutch plate/gear adapter( it has a 3/8" I.D. hole to fit on the gear hub ), and to that I attached a 72 tooth spur from R R double-disc slipper kit. This will give you an idea of how I built it, but the width of the housing is determined by the width of the top chassis plate and the placement of you batteries. My top plate is split and is connected to the front and the back of the housing. Seeing that new chassis you have been working on I can see you have access to all the machine tools you need to figure how to make one of these if you decide to.
The connection from the spur on the hub to the pinion on the motor is direct, no idlers, no slipper. I believe since th ratio of the trans is determined by the size of the spur divided by the size of the pinion, 72 divided by 10 = 7.2 to 1, I think.
I hope this helps you out.
Slid'in Sideway

[Maxxcrazy]

Oh, I see it now. I only glanced at the picture and thought it had another gear in there. Your final drive ratio is around 20:1 which is a good balance between stock first (23:1) and stock second (17:1)

I made a tranny for my TLT a while ago. Now that I think about it, it would work here too. I attached a 72T maxx spur to a maxx spool then had the motor drive the spur gear. I could use a 9T pinion for a ratio of 8:1. The outdrives on the maxx spool were the perfect size for sliders, so its basically a no fab tranny, with the exception of the plates holding it all together.

An update on the maxx project: I designed and made the entire upper deck system. The front deck is normal shaped and houses the tranny. The rear is completely different. I'm using a .125" piece of garolite mounted vertically going from the tranny to the rear bulk. Virtually 0 flex. This will allow me to take a lot of material out of the lower chassis, but still keep the entire chassis flex free.

[slid'in sideway]

Yo Maxxcrazy,
Sounds like your new setup, "chassis", is coming along great. Please let me know how your truck comes out. I'm always interested to see modifications that can make our E's more competitive with our nitro brothers "T's" and Revo's.
At one point I had also thought about making a trans with the Maxx spool, but couldn't find any 6 x 12 flanged bearings for the housing thats why I went with the hub from robot zone, plus its aluminum. Now if I could only come up with a piece of 1/4" O.D. 7075 T-6, I'd make the shaft out of that and take a slight bit more out of the rotating mass of the trans.
One other thing that I had thought about was trying to adapt some kind of a front oneway on to my truck. My thought was that it might help with turning into corners, what might be your thoughts on that?
Good luck with that project of yours, let me know you think of the oneway idea.
Thanks
slid'in sideway

[oggydog]

slid'in I found a nice web site for aluminum on the net they have 6061-T6 Aluminum Round Rod .250'' dia. x 144" long come 3 pieces 48" long $3.99
http://www.lowcostmetals.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=786

[slid'in sideway]

Hay oggydog,
Thanks I'll check it out. I haven't done anything lately with my E. Too busy lately, but I've still got to get a wheelie bar on that thing before I run it again. I've just painted a new body for it and I don't want to tear it up, at least not till I get it to the track.
Thanks Again
slid'in sideway

[MXman]

I was having alot of fun jumping my E-maxx off anything I could find ...When the stair case got the better of my stocker

[Maxxcrazy]

New stuff on my project

Modded RPM arms with a lower garolite shock tower (remind me never to grind this stuff again)
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0234.jpg

Custom tranny. The main shaft was turned from .75 6061. Its supported by two peices of nylon, one doubling as a motor mount.
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0235.jpg

Here you can see how low it is
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0236.jpg

[slid'in sideway]

Hay Maxxcrazy,
Very nice work. I really like that tranny setup you have there, easy to work on and nice low CG on the chassis. Hopefully that will help keep the front wheels on the ground. From the way it looks the chassis seems like it would be very ridgid, do you have any plans to mill out any other parts of it lighten it up a little?
Please keep us informed on how it's coming along
slid'in sideway

[pimpn247]

Im buying my first Emaxx, I just havent recieved in the mail yet but I was trying to research what parts I need to look out for as to what breaks alot, and I have read thru several post regarding what parts break commonly with this truck when "bashing"... obviously the front/rear bumpers, bulkheads are a priority, some peope say skid plate some peope say dont worry about the skid plate. This truck is coming with a "DYNAMITE CHARGER..SO YOU CAN CHARGE 2 PACKS AT THE SAME TIME IN 30 MINS...12V/120V, 4 7.2V 1500 PIRANHA BATTERY PACKS (4 packs)", well I was thinking of buying some 3300mah battery packs which means I need to buy a new charger right (959 or 969?)?, so question now is... since this is supposed to work the truck harder what kinda strain is this going to put on the motor and gears etc, should I be concerned about this or just worry about it if something breaks or strips, what gears etc should I buy as a replacement should these break? also.. I have read to just stick to the twin titans and not change out to the Reedy or Trinity motors.. do you guys agree with this? for what reasons do I have to change or upgrade the ESC? blah blah blah.. lol (if you guys only focus on one question.. I would like to hear what parts to replace or to keep on hand incase anything breaks since i will soon be getting the 3300batteries)

thanks for any and all help...

[flipster]

The first things that I broke where the front skidplate and the rear body mounts. It may be something about the way I jump, but I put some MAJOR pressure against the rear body mounts. I replaced the plastic with aluminum, then had to replace the shock towers, then finally the bulkheads with al. Believe it or not, I still bend the rear aluminum body mounts and shock tower. (need to work on landing).

From everything I've heard, the titans are great motors, just upgrade to 7 cell batteries (I use promatch 3300 E-maxx packs http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm) I also switched to deans connectors because I kept melting the other style. The only better motors appear to be the brushless ones and now you're talking $$$ ($250 or so). The 3300s will not work the truck harder, just longer. 7 cells will work it harder.

[cr250]

Here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5979363240&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW) are some GP3300, 7-cell packs I found on eBay. The assembly looks awesome.

[metalry101]

Ya...but they're not matched. They'd be pretty good packs, especially for the price, but don't believe him when he says they're matched. Everyone claims that GP "loosely matches" their cells from the factory...which may be true...but the difference between GP's "loose matching" and real matching is the difference between a Scion Tc and a Toyota Supra...

Whereas the difference between "loose matching" and no matching is the difference between a Corolla and a Tc...much, much less.

That's still pretty good value assuming they're authentic GP cells...but they're not matched. Any worthwhile matcher puts labels on the cells.

Anyways...

Yes...I would suggest a decent charger for the 3300's if you get some. The 959 and 969 are both solid units. If you're looking for something a bit cheaper, the Dynamite Prophet Plus is a solid buy. I've sold literally hundreds of them and we almost never see any problems. It has adjustable charge rates, ac/dc inputs, 4-7 cell capability, pretty much everything you'd need.

As for breakage...it really depends. If you don't hit curbs and don't jump it a lot you won't break much at all. I didn't. If you jump it a lot and land right then you'll probably only blow shock caps. If you ram curbs then you'll break a-arms and bulkheads and you'll bend hingepins and shockshafts. If you land jumps wrong you'll break bulkheads, shock towers, shock shafts, shock caps, a-arms, body posts, skid plates, and maybe a few other misc. things.

It really depends. I never broke much of anything on mine. I still have yet to break a Pro-Line part, and I've only bent one shock shaft. I did manage to crack my Torpedo chassis somehow, and then after it was weakened by that I landed quite badly from about 10 feet high and kinda finished it off. I did break a set of plastic bulkheads when I landed really really wrong. I've broken multiple skids by running over large rocks and such. I've bent a shock shaft or two, and I blew the caps off of the stock shocks (which is why I upgraded to the aluminum ones I have now). I toasted A LOT of sliders, but then again the rear of my truck has been spooled from day one. I think that's it really...and I've had my E-Maxx for years...lotza years...like back when I bought mine it was a "narrow" Maxx. I think it was March of 2001...or maybe 2000. 2001 I think. It's been used fairly hard...and I haven't broken too much. It really just depends on how you drive it. Hit stuff and you're going to break it, plain and simple. Rally it hard but don't hit things and it'll hold up very, very well.

[pimpn247]

Hey metalry101, you mentioned that you messed up ALOT of "sliders" , forgive me for not knowing exactly what part this is. but ahhhh.. what part is it? lol.. are you talking about the skid plate? just curious.... thanks... im sure im going to run it hard in dirt n stuff.. not too much on the streets so no curbs being hit. so im just thinking ahead so my down time isnt too bad between breaks.. lol

thanks for all the suggestions so far.. I got a few spare parts for it already so that I am somewhat prepared for what I am sure is going happen.

[guver]

drive shafts going out to the wheels, they bend and break.

[cr250]

Ya...but they're not matched. They'd be pretty good packs, especially for the price, but don't believe him when he says they're matched. Everyone claims that GP "loosely matches" their cells from the factory...which may be true...but the difference between GP's "loose matching" and real matching is the difference between a Scion Tc and a Toyota Supra...

Whereas the difference between "loose matching" and no matching is the difference between a Corolla and a Tc...much, much less.

That's still pretty good value assuming they're authentic GP cells...but they're not matched. Any worthwhile matcher puts labels on the cells.



The eBay ad says nothing about factory matching and it even mentions a 30-Amp discharge. Maybe it is somone trying to move matched inventory, without using lables. Just a thought.

[pimpn247]

How do you know when your steering servo needs to be replaced? I jsut got my used E-maxx and I notice that it turns good the the left (if i remember correctly) and not to good to the right.. I was assuming that that Servo is getting weak or not working correctly. its the standard Traxxas 2055, I see on Ebay lots of High Torque 2055's are these all the same or are these different than the one in my truck? are there any brands/models of Good servos that dont cost an arm and a leg or are the ones on Ebay about as good as they get?

[metalry101]

The Hitec 645MG and the JR Z650M are the two best servos for the money. They're both around 50 bux, both have metal gears. I believe the 645 has 133 oz/in of torque and the JR has 142. The JR is also a little faster, and comes with a 3 year warranty. The Hitec is usually about 5-10 bux less though. Either is rock solid. If you get either of those, you also are going to want to pick up the Kimbrough servo saver. The stocker sucks. It is soft and has lotza play, killing the steering. The Kimbrough 124 will help tighten that up a bit. It's only 6 bux btw.

As for the matched cells...maybe...but doubtful. Who tries to move matched packs for that price? It's possible that they're quality matched cells...but I'd rather buy from a reputable matcher, or at least used cells that were matched properly (with labels and all) in the first place. Just my opinion. I will say that for the price, they are probably a good value whether they're matched or not, because in the end, they're still GP3300 cells.

[Maxxcrazy]

Hay Maxxcrazy,
Very nice work. I really like that tranny setup you have there, easy to work on and nice low CG on the chassis. Hopefully that will help keep the front wheels on the ground. From the way it looks the chassis seems like it would be very ridgid, do you have any plans to mill out any other parts of it lighten it up a little?
Please keep us informed on how it's coming along
slid'in sideway

I hope to mill out at least half of the material on the chassis. The only problem is that I'm having a hard time clamping the chassis to the mill table since my mill is so small. I'm able to mill around the edges, but not near the center.

The current weight is 8lbs with everything in the picture plus 14 cells, a body and wheels and tires. The chassis alone probably weighs in at a pound and a half.

[edub99]

just got my e-maxx on friday and have had a blast with it. i was wondering do any of you have trouble fitting the 6 cell stick packs in the battery compartment? it seems like i have to stuff mine in. iv'e stripped off some of the wire covering in the process of doing this.

also what are some cheap and decent 3300 battery packs for bashing?

[slid'in sideway]

Maxx Crazy,
Looks like your on the right track, you'll figure out how to get weight off that chassis. Of course right now fully loaded at 8# isn't bad at all.
I'm still in the testing stage with mine. I was planning on taking it over to my local track, but they have shut it down and are planning to build a new one, so I'll have to wait to get that one so I can get some track time. Went back to do some testing on the street. After the flipping issue and grinding down some of the body posts on my "E", I went and got a wheelie bar. For the most part that took care of that issue, what I mean by that is it lifts the front end so hard it slams the wheelie bar into the ground so hard it even pulls the rear wheels off the ground. So far I haven't broke it, but I have broke the yoke ear off a rear stub axle and tore a spur out of the spooled center diff I put together. A screw came loss in it and the torque shifted the gear around ripping some teeth off. I'm hoping to get it fixed soon so I can do some more testing.
Keep up the good work on that truck of yours, let us out in "E" land know how it's coming along.

[edub99]

I got a pair of Jumbo Kongs for off roading. What are some of the tallest and widest street tires for 17mm or 19mm hubs?

[rc addict]

has anyone ever tried putting a reedy neo one brushless in an emaxx?

[metalry101]

No, and i wouldn't...too much weight, not enough motor.

[kvrc]

ok guys i have found a new source for steel e maxx idlers. they are made of hardened steel and work very nicely. i just put one in my trans and it is as quiet as when i had the plastic idler in it. the bearings fit in perfect and the tooth profile is just like the original ones.
granted i have only made a few runs with them but since they are made from hardened steel, i cant forsee any wear problems.
Tom, the guy who makes them wanted some guinepigs for them and he has responded to all of my questions quickly and proffesionally. he shipped them out promptley and has told me that keeping them in stock should be no problem. his website does a very good job of explaining them. if you have any specific questions, i suggest you email him. JUST LET HIM KNOW THAT KVRC SENT YOU. here is a link to his website.

http://www.1320.4t.com/index.html

[rc addict]

what are the mods necessary to make a dewalt powered emaxx and is it worth the money?

[rc addict]

also is it possible to install brushless motors in a stock maxx

[edub99]

what are the mods necessary to make a dewalt powered emaxx and is it worth the money?


I've been wondering the same thing myself. Here is a website that has the upgrades and info. http://home.comcast.net/~milemarkers/index.html

[rc addict]

also what is the fastest and easiest to install brushless motor available for the maxx

[metalry101]

Yes, BL motors will bolt right into a stock Maxx. That's not to say the drivelines will survive, but the motor system would bolt up.

The easiest and least expensive BL system worthy of the E-Maxx is Novak HV system. It's about 275-300 dollars and is way, way stronger than stock.

The fastest system would involve an insanely torquely german-made motor with a high dollar controller and a ton of cells. It would cost you an arm and leg (quite literally), but it would blow the doors off of any nitro truck on the market, if you could get the drivetrain to hold up.

[rc addict]

oh yea i plan to first get an emaxx(haha) and then start off with a pair of trinity modified pro motors made for the emaxx and give it 14 cells (matched), next when i get more money i want to go straight to a lehner or hacker, or maybe a nemesis, and install some robinson racing spur gears, idlers, pinions, and buy some mip cvds, but my question is whats the best high performance brushless to install, and also how fast will my maxx go with two trinity pro motors and 14 cells

[rc addict]

i wanna keep most of the rest stock until i break something, seeing as the stock emaxx as very light compared to those iced out aluminum ones

[metalry101]

No...no...no. DON'T buy the Trinity motors. They're JUNK, COMPLETE AND UTTER JUNK.

[rc addict]

oh, can you recommend any motors other than stock that will give a significant increase in performance but not cost a ton like brushless, and are compatible with the evx

[rc addict]

also whats the best brushless and esc combo for when i switch in the future, i dont want the hv maxx because ive heard it provides mediocre performance increase that you could achieve by a brushless motor

[Maxxcrazy]

Just install some 7 cell packs. Those alone will make your truck a few mph faster. Thats about all the EVX can handle.

For brushless, I've been thinking about a Feigao 9L motor with a Warrior 9918 controller.

[rc addict]

how bout the Badd MAXX HP Motors 19t from reedy, are those some quality modifed motors?

[metalry101]

No, they're junk too. The Titans are the only motors I would suggest for an E-Maxx other than BL. As for the Novak system, I like it. I had it for a while and was impressed. I traded it away a while back, but I do plan on getting another one soon. Yes, there are more powerful BL systems out there, much more powerful in fact, but none have the factory support that the Novak system does, and none can come close to the Novak's price either. If you plan on waiting a bit, Castle Creations is supposed to be coming out with a BL system that is capable of pushing the Maxx, but I'm not sure when. It's due to be released "soon," but when that is, no one really knows.

[rc addict]

yea ive seen it in all the car action magaxine ads cant wait

[Bta]

I don't know anything about the dewalt system, but novak makes a nice brushless system for the maxx. You will find that you will go through some stock parts (bones, cvd's, etc) because of the power of a brushless system.
Bash Happy

[rc addict]

i want my emaxx to be comparible to nitro trucks

[Bta]

The Novak brushless system runs around $300.00 and it's a great system. Hacker also makes a good one(don't know the price) Either one would more than likely get you as close to nitro as one can get. Once you've done that then you start dealing with keeping the tires on the ground (suspenstion tricks) not to mention replacing broken parts with better quality hop ups.
:) Run With The Big Dogs

[metalry101]

Hacker's system is no longer made. The motor is still avaible, but Hacker discontinued their "car" controllers a while ago because they were designing new ones that are supposed to be smoother and better. They're not out yet so you can only run half a Hacker system unless you buy someone's used one.

[rc addict]

that sucks, i havent even gotten an emaxx yet, but i think im planning to just first get 7 cells per side, keep the titans cause i heard theyre good, and replace the shocks with big bores, upgrade the drivetrain parts and difs, and buy some lunsford turnbuckles...those seem to be the most important "firsts" for my maxx when i get it this summer

[rc addict]

oh ya and put on some 23mm hd hexs and 40 series hd velocities and bow ties :)

[metalry101]

Any RPM parts are also a wise investment, especially a-arms since the stockers aren't exactly very strong.

Have some fun with your truck and see what breaks before you start spending all of your money on other stuff. If you get it all hopped up and break some other stuff then you won't have any money left to fix it. That's never good.

[rc addict]

thats true, i considered that, and i also like those rpm a arms, and pivot ball suspension system, i dont know about those body posts, but are the rpms made of nylon, and what properties does nylon have? light? strong?

[metalry101]

The main thing is that they're about twice as thick as the stockers. They're also considerably more flexible, and just flat out stronger. Where the stock arms would flex and snap, RPM arms just flex and hold. They're also deformable, so if you go over the top of a large, sharp rock you just put a gash in them instead of snapping them like a twig.

RPM stuff also comes in a variety of pretty colors and the white stuff is dyable for an even more impressive array of color choices.

[rc addict]

sounds cool, i have another question, can they do those insane high jumps like the videos of tmaxx's, revo's, mgt's...

oh yeah and could a decked out rc18t beat it in a drag lol, those micros are soo fast with the mamba

[flipster]

Has anyone tried lipo batteries in their E? I searched the thread and only came up with one reference many months ago. I'm thinking a pair of 2-cell lipos (7.4v) would drop a BUNCH of weight and give you 14.8v. I suspect that by dropping the weight 26 oz that the 14.8 would match the performance of 16.8v with dual 7-cell nimh. I'd like to try a 2c and a 3c, but that would be 18.5v and I doubt everything would hold up to that. My only concern would be if the titans draw too many amps and would overheat the batts. Any opinions/thoughts welcome (aside from the fire danger, I'm aware of that and willing to take my chances).

[metalry101]

You could run Lipo's, but there are a few obstacles to overcome. First is funding. Lipos that can handle the kind of current an E-Maxx draws are very, very pricey.

The second problem that I can see is that the EVX was not designed to run LiPo and therefor does not have a voltage cutoff point to protect your batteries. LiPo's not only explode if you discharge them too quickly, but also if you discharge them too much. Speed controls designed to use LiPo's will usually have a cutoff point voltage wise at which they stop all draw on the batteries so as not to discharge them too much.

Other than those two things, I would think you could probably run them with good results.

[flipster]

I know what you mean, I've seen the overcharge video, very impressive from such a small battery.

Do you know what type of LiPo's it would take to handle the load? I've seen a lot of them around $50-60, but I found a site a few days ago that had something about amp draws with a given pack setup but I can't remember how I found it. I'm thinking they had a pack rated at up to 50 amp, but it was around $100. So $200 for batts + $100 or so for a special charger. I need to replace my 7-cells anyhow (I'm down to 5 min runtime which I'm taking to mean that they're just about at the end of their life cycle, 6 months of regular usage).

I hadn't thought about a voltage cutoff, but that makes sense. Do any of the brushless setups have that? I keep toying with the idea of brushless, but I never take the plunge.

Does anyone know what the amp draw of the titans (or a brushless setup for that matter) is?

[metalry101]

Honestly, I would just stick with NIMH for the time being. I'm guessing that if any BL systems for the Maxx have a voltage cutoff system, it is the Castle Creations setup. Problem is that's just a guess because it's not on the market yet. I don't know of any other controllers that have it. I'd buy some good 3300's or higher, just buy 7 of 'em and rip one apart, then add the cells to each of the remaining packs. That's the cheapest way to get 7 cell packs. It's not cheap...probably around 40 dollars a pack for good 3300's, but you get what you pay for. You could always just buy 3 and then buy another pair when you get the funding. In the end you end up with 3 pairs of solid packs, which should last you quite a while if you take good care of them.

I dunno what kind of amps the motors draw...but I know it's a lot. If I had to guess, I'd say 30 or 40 amps between the 2 motors at WOT under load. More momentarily for sure.

[rc addict]

do they make gp3700s to go in the maxx

[flipster]

metalry: Any opinions of the pro-match gp3300 batts? They've got 'em for $70/pair for 7-cell un-matched e-maxx packs. That's what I bought last time, but I didn't know if there were any better options.

addict: I thought about buying some 3700s and making my own packs, but the couple of places where I found 'em they were out of stock. There's also a 3800 (not gp) cell out there now. Not sure how good they are. I think I'd rather pay someone who knows what they're doing because my soldering skills are poor at best.

Anyone: How do you tell that a pack is wearing out? A full charge on my 7-cells is only running for about 5 min on a heavy metal (~11 pounds) E with 17t pinions and the stock drivetrain. They used to run for close to 15 min... :( I'm using deans plugs now, but that should help, not hurt.

[rc addict]

oh yea are they sanyos or something i remember seeing 3800s somewhere, thad be crazy power, i wish they made 1500 or 1400s for my micro

[rc addict]

and i wish they made a safer lipo

[cr250]

I've recently purchased a set of 7-cell, SPC (http://www.specpointbatteries.com) Twin Maxx Pacs. Up until now I've been running 6-cell packs, but the switch to matched, 7-cell, GP3300s is a real eye opener. The motors tend to heat up more quickly so I watch for that, however the fun factor went up considerably!!!!

[edub99]

Has any one ever tried these? Are they even worth it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5982018348&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

http://bigboobstightass.com/RCDepot/Ext.jpg

[edub99]

Here are some pics of my emaxx project. I'm debating on either two novak hv-maxx systems or the dewalt dual 820 kit. http://home.comcast.net/~milemarkers/Dual820Conversion.htm

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a106/ethannett/mm3.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a106/ethannett/mm2.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a106/ethannett/mm1.jpg


Other features
wireless cam
2 1:6 scale h2 bodies (1 for bashing 1 for show)
extended wheel base approx. 17.5 in
4ws
fan cooling system

Other possible options (I have to do more research)
Aftershock
http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/ed/75/83_1_b.JPG
Wheel extenders
http://i12.ebayimg.com/01/i/03/00/ff/9c_2.JPG

[Silent Scope]

Hey guys.. I just bought a emaxx.. should be coming soon.. i cant wait!

[rc addict]

tell me how it drives stock, im about to get one

[rc addict]

will the performance change drastically if one wire leading from the motor to esc is alot shorter than the other?

[rc addict]

the black one is shorter than the red

[Silent Scope]

I dont think so...

Im gettin it used.. but its stock hehe

[mp7maxx]

mine drives great remember put the biggest preload clips on. take the time to get used to it it is fast

[rc addict]

why put the biggest preloads, so the ride will be stiff?

[metalry101]

will the performance change drastically if one wire leading from the motor to esc is alot shorter than the other?

It shouldn't change enough for you to notice it. Technically it will change it a little...for the better, as a shorter wire will have less resistance than a long one, but the difference should be so small that it will be imperceptable (sp?).

As for batteries, Pro Match's setup is as good as anyone's probably, and 70 bux is damned hard to beat. I prefer matched packs, but for just driving around the yard and such the difference probably isn't worth the money to most people.

As for putting preload clips in...why? If you plan on jumping it then yes...but otherwise it's going to cause the truck to roll more often. With a higher ride height your truck will be more top heavy...and more likely to cartwheel through the corners. Unless you're rallying it over big bumps at WOT or jumping it a lot, I'd pull all of the preload spacers and get it to sit at a more reasonable height.

[mp7maxx]

why because you get a lot of sag and can bottom out. also it helps with cornering because you dont get as much body roll.

[metalry101]

No offense, but have you driven a monster on pavement? If the suspension is soft you'll get a lot of chassis roll, but it'll keep the wheels down. If your suspension is really stiff the energy has to go somewhere, and usually that means the truck just rolls over.

As for bottoming out, so what. That's on big bumps. I'd rather have my truck composed and controllable over the smaller bumps that make up 98% of the terrain and bottom out over the really big bumps than vice versa.

Oh...and that's not sag. Go out and look at a 1:1 car. Show me one that sits with its springs and shocks fully extended at normal ride height. You can't. There's a reason for that. If the suspension is fully extended then it can only react to half of the changes in the terrain. Think about it, without downtravel when you go over a hole or depression in the ground the truck either has to lift a wheel or lean into the hole, and then when the wheel hits the other side of the hole, it'll be all bent out of shape. That's a much worse situation than having the tire drop gracefully into the hole to stay in contact with terra firma and then come back up when it hits the other lip. Ya, it might hit hard, but that's why you have a dampened suspension with 2 shocks per corner.

[rc addict]

will there ever be an electric revo coming out? or would team losi consider making an electric monster? also this is a little off topic but is ofns's cd3 a copy of the kyosho fw-o5r and is ofnas ld3 a copy of the ntc3?

[metalry101]

Ask the touring car questions in the general forum. Honestly I dunno, and I doubt anyone else that reads this thread would either. You'd get a lot more views on your question there.

As for an electric Revo, I haven't heard anything about one at all. Traxxas has said they won't make one, but I believe they said the same thing about the E-Maxx...so they might. I wouldn't keep my fingers crossed though.

[Silent Scope]

They really should though.. its would be wrong.. just sick.. if they didnt make one.

I bet they would get screwed choosing a name.. E-revo sounds wierd.. and they cant go with Evo lol

[metalry101]

How about RevE (pronounced rev-E)?

[rc addict]

what about "E-vo"
instead of revo, evo for evolution as in the maxx turning to a revo style truck, and e- for electric, makes sense right?"

[PCC]

Revolt

[mp7maxx]

if they wont make one how would you go about making one and how much would it cost to make it. and i like that revolt. it has revo but has the electric twist of volt. good.

[Silent Scope]

Revolt

good one!

[PCC]

I'll have to admit that I can't take credit for that name. I read that some time ago on Traxxas' forums when people were screaming for Traxxas to come out with an electric Revo shortly after the Revo came out.

[TeamMishap]

Yeah. A RE-VOLT with dual brushless and Li-Poly packs. I'm drooling!

[Emaxx Jedi]

Hi I am new to this forum. I have been in rc for 20 years. I have had many awesome vehicles. Just wanted to answer a question here. Kershaw designs makes a full electric revo conversion but I am not to sure of the quality. "shrugs" You can see pics of the conversion on thier site.

[Emaxx Jedi]

Here is a pic of my maxx. hope it works.

[Emaxx Jedi]

Another

[Emaxx Jedi]

And more pics and news on my ultimate racer maxx to come.

[Emaxx Jedi]

One last pic. Wanted to show off the new beadlockers. :)

[metalry101]

How much did you pay for that?

[Emaxx Jedi]

How much did you pay for that?

It has well over 2000.00 and custom work done by myself. I am gonna make a page with videos on me hitting it with my radar gun and it going over50mph with 12 cells :). It looks dirty in the pics but when it is clean it looks great

[metalry101]

Looks very well built. The only thing I can see that I would have definately done differently is run a longer chassis. The stock length is fine for stock speeds, but for extreme speed (like what yours does), I prefer bigger trucks, as they're much easier to control, especially over rough terrain. That said, I still like it. I'd definately like to see some more pics and some details of the stuff you're running.

[Emaxx Jedi]

Looks very well built. The only thing I can see that I would have definately done differently is run a longer chassis. The stock length is fine for stock speeds, but for extreme speed (like what yours does), I prefer bigger trucks, as they're much easier to control, especially over rough terrain. That said, I still like it. I'd definately like to see some more pics and some details of the stuff you're running.

Well for starters I lift it short for a few reasons. 1 is I get a wider variety of bodies to choose from. 2 it is very nimble and cornering is tighter than a longer chassis "wich I have no problem controlling the truck so far". 3 I liked the look of the demensions of the stock e-maxx. As for everything else I could go on. but this is my play toy wheelie king show boat. not a racer. Those pics will be up shortly. But anyways, This truck is running a hand polished nemisis 8L on a warrior 9918 controller. I use 3300 nimh packs that are rated at a 35 amp drain. I custom made the speed control shelf with fan to mount where the other motor would. It has a custom carbon fiber chassis plate, intigy msr5 shocks, and super duty aluminum throughout. unlimited engineering super diffs, titanium centetr drive shafts, and idler gears. metal 1st and second gear also. Has rd logic stainless cvd,s on all 4 corners, proline servo saver, airteonics mx3 radio gear, Servo is a clear case cirrus 80. Proline 23mm hex's with 40 series big joe wrapped around thier new comando wheels with aluminum beadlocks. Theres more but ya know how it is lol. My racer I am custom fabing will be super light and have a center diff to increase handling on the track and save drive line. More on that later.

[Silent Scope]

Hey guys! I just got the Emaxx today! Its pretty sweet.. Its heavy and doesnt respond good as my rc10gt and the turning sucks but i still love it.. heres a pic!

http://img276.imageshack.us/img276/8411/dvc019978uw.th.jpg (http://img276.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dvc019978uw.jpg)

[rc addict]

dude i really hope the stock shocks on the maxx have some kind of fluid in them, otherwise that sucks to have friction shocks on a 1/10th truck

[Silent Scope]

Yah they do lol

[metalry101]

They do until you start jumping it high. Then the tops of the shocks hit the eject button and most of the fluid goes with them.

[Silent Scope]

Is it normal for when I press reverse.. it starts back and forth.. its really weird

[Emaxx Jedi]

starts back and forth? whats that mean'?

[guver]

sounds like a radio glitching to me.

[Silent Scope]

Ah its fine now.. I dono why it did that.. it works fine now

[Silent Scope]

I realized one of my shock shafts was bent so I bent it back and now the suspention is so much better.. I got my RPM towers on and im waiting for my powerplant to come in.. heres a pic

Im beggining to really enjoy this emaxx.. I tested it out to see how fast it was and damn! Its really fast.. not to mention it accelerates like a bat out of hell :p


http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/6383/dvc020043vj.th.jpg (http://img226.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dvc020043vj.jpg)

[Emaxx Jedi]

what kind of power are you gonna run in that?

[Silent Scope]

Just stock titans.. mine were to used up from the previous owner

If i wanted to buy anything other than titans it would be a brushless

[cr250]

I run the stock motors in my Maxx also. After racing it for over a year I bought my first set of matched, 7-cell GP3300s a month or so ago. Wow! The only real negatives are the motors tend to heat up more quickly and it's very easy to twist up the rear sliders. But is it ever fast!

[Silent Scope]

What are rear sliders?

[PCC]

Sliders = Traxxas plastic driveshafts that are used between the transmission and the differentials as well as between the differentials and the wheels.

[Silent Scope]

Oh.. TY for the explination

[pedeman]

okay, i am thinking about racing my e-maxx... just in the beginner MT class. I need some suggestions on batteries, and tires/rims... my local track is hardpacked (used a steam-roller to pack it)... so for the rims, i was thinking Proline Wabash (sp?) and some of the Bow Ties... and im not sure about the packs, because i dont know if i want 6 or 7 cells yet... thanks for any help...

www.pitstophobbies.net is my local track... thanks

[Silent Scope]

Man I should race but my local track is closing

www.tfbraceway.com in Kennesaw, GA

[pedeman]

okay guys, im having some $ problems, so can someone help me out? i just bought some pro line 40 series tires (bow ties) and i need some money to get some aluminum bulks... can anyone possibly trade me? if not, thanks anyways... later

[metalry101]

Aluminum bulks for the front or rear? Are the Bow Ties mounted yet?

[cr250]

okay, i am thinking about racing my e-maxx... just in the beginner MT class. I need some suggestions on batteries, and tires/rims... my local track is hardpacked (used a steam-roller to pack it)... so for the rims, i was thinking Proline Wabash (sp?) and some of the Bow Ties... and im not sure about the packs, because i dont know if i want 6 or 7 cells yet... thanks for any help...www.pitstophobbies.net is my local track... thanks
I race my Maxx on a regular basis. For now I'm running RPM wide offset rims & Bow Ties. Next time I'll try 40 Series wheels & Bow Ties. It is possible to greatly improve a Maxx’s track performance while operating on a budget. While it's fun to upgrade a RC vehicle, many times it is too cost prohibitive. Changing out the stock bulkheads for aluminum ones is a good start and an investment I'd make. If money is really a problem try these mods. Remove the shock springs and shorten them by cutting 1 full coil off each spring. A shorter spring is a stiffer spring. Heat (red hot) the last 3/4 of the end of the cut coil with a propane torch set on a low flame. Do not try this if you are not experienced with a torch. If you are not careful there is a very real chance you will ruin the springs or worse. Be careful to not heat more than 3/4 of the last coil. Once 3/4 is red hot, quickly turn the spring over and press against a metal surface. The cooled end will now be flattened similar to the original end. It will not be as flat as before, but it will be close and it will work! Reassemble the shocks with 40 to 50-weight oil. Place the lower shock mounts in the next to last outside holes. Do not over tighten the top shock mounts. Frequently check the suspension arm hinge pins. They bend easily but they can be straightened easily. With the battery packs in your Maxx, set the rear ride height so the arms are level. Adjust the front ride height so the truck sets level. Fine tune the front ride height as needed. If you will be using your Maxx mostly for racing remove the shift servo and lock the transmission in 2nd gear. Carefully remove excessive material from the up-swept portions of the front and rear skid plates. Reduce the overall width of the bumpers. Install the highest torque steering servo you can afford. Look for battery packs that are sold as matched sets. Whether it is 6-cell or 7-cell packs, it is important that the 2 packs work together. SPC Batteries (http://www.twinmaxxpacs) sells assembled packs that are matched for a Maxx. Their 6-cell packs run great, the 7-cell ones are crazy! Frequently clean the pillow balls and plastic cups. Make sure the camber settings from left to right are identical. If not your Maxx will torque steer excessively while under power. Same goes for rear toe-in. If you want PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send you some detailed photos of a race Maxx on a budget.

I know most of this may sound simple and cheap to many Maxx owners, however it's racing on a budget. It really doesn't cost a lot to make an E-Maxx very competitive on a track.

[pedeman]

i would like to trade as a front/rear set of bulks... but the bow ties are NIP, never mounted... the one package was opened to see how soft they were, but other then that, no, they havent seen a rim... thanks

[Mild MAXX]

I just discovered this site and I have read a lot of postings this place is full of good info. I have a question for anyone or every one who owens an E MAXX do you or have you heard of the stock evx changing it's profile when you are running the truck like one min. you have reverse next time you don't or it will just slow down and stop at haif speed then go in reverse when you let go of the trigger? Or am I the only one to have this happen. This makes like the 9th. evx I have destoried in 4 years mabe thats is good or mabe not. Has anyone used that new novak super duty speed control yet I was thinking of trying it this time. Any info or help would be great Thanks DAN

[metalry101]

I've never heard of the EVX changing profiles while in use, but they've done everything else an ESC can do before they've blown up, so that honestly doesn't sound out of the realm of possibility. 9 EVX's in 4 years is impressive. I think I've toasted a total of 3 in that time frame, but my Maxx has been parked a bit lately. It should be up and running again soon though.

As for the Super Duty XR, it's awesome, buuuut, at that price, I honestly can't suggest it for an E-Maxx. Yes, it's a really, really solid ESC, but I'd say up another 100 dollars and just go for the HV BL system instead. There's nothing wrong with the ESC, I had one and it worked like a typical Novak product, flawlessly, but it's just too expensive to not consider the BL system instead.

Oh...and the correct link to SPC is Spec Point Batteries (http://www.specpointbatteries.com).

As for those tires, you might try creating a thread in the Buy/Sell/Trade Forum if you haven't already.

[Mild MAXX]

METALRY101
Thanks for the info I use my maxx as a rock cralwer so i thought that a bl system would be to much motor sence the stockers do a good job with 10/72 gears they better but mabe i need to look in to it more. dan

[Silent Scope]

Check out my hardbody for my Emaxx.. I Drilled the holes today.. All I need now is a few touchups.. and paint! :cool:

http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/8272/dvc020165nq.th.jpg (http://img250.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dvc020165nq.jpg)

[PCC]

METALRY101
Thanks for the info I use my maxx as a rock cralwer so i thought that a bl system would be to much motor sence the stockers do a good job with 10/72 gears they better but mabe i need to look in to it more. dan
Crawling with a Maxx? How about spools front and rear, locked first gear into the output shaft for almost no driveline slop, 9T pinions with 72T spur, dogbones driving the diffs from the tranny, MIP CVDs all around, beadlocks, one Losi shock per corner front and rear mounted to custom shock towers, modified suspension for slightly less suspension friction, and a Novak SS5800 driving it all. It has enough torque to pull it up almost anything and enough revs to move at a pretty decent pace.

[metalry101]

The SS5800 is a terrible motor for crawling. If you really want to crawl then you want Integy 55 turn lathe motors. If you're going to run the stock motors, gear the truck up, not down. The E-Maxx has the torque to climb any hill stock, even in second gear, if you have cells capable of handling the amp draw. E-Maxxes are twitchy enough on throttle without gearing them down. Gearing them up helps to eliminate some of that twitchiness...and makes the truck much easier to control on the rocks.

Beadlocks are a style thing and nothing more in r/c form.

E-Maxxes in general don't make very good crawlers. They can be made to do alright...but without replacing the motors they're generally too twitchy and on/off-like to really "crawl."

[PCC]

My SS5800 works fine for me. Not twitchy or anything. The only thing it does not do well is reverse (too jumpy switching from forward to reverse) but I've controlled that with the radio adjustments. Without this the thing has so much brakes that it will flip over forward from a light tap on the brakes after going full throttle.

[Mild MAXX]

Crawling with a Maxx? How about spools front and rear, locked first gear into the output shaft for almost no driveline slop, 9T pinions with 72T spur, dogbones driving the diffs from the tranny, MIP CVDs all around, beadlocks, one Losi shock per corner front and rear mounted to custom shock towers, modified suspension for slightly less suspension friction, and a Novak SS5800 driving it all. It has enough torque to pull it up almost anything and enough revs to move at a pretty decent pace.
I have a spool in the rear and a home made limted slip in the front so I can turn it around tight corners. I am running 1/8 th scale truggy shocks all around (8) with 10w shock oil and light springs no bead locks whats the point in wasting money on those when they are useless. The twitchyness stoped when I droped the 2nd battery and ran it in perell with the primery one of course the truck dosent go as fast eather but you dont want speed on a pile of rocks anywhy. with my gearing I could probly pull a small car with it. If I want speed I will start my T- MAXX. Its more fun to run it as fast as it will go an d hit an old motor cycle burm to see how high & how far it will fly and still land on all 4 wheels.

[pedeman]

ahh, do i see a fellow motocrosser Mild Maxx? thats what my e-maxx is for... the motocross track... id like to get some video to show you guys, but i dont know how to post it and no one to take the footage... maybe sometime i will

[Mild MAXX]

former desert racer to many bad reacks & broken bones. R/C is much easer on the body.

[cr250]

former desert racer to many bad reacks & broken bones. R/C is much easer on the body.
I can relate to that. Years of racing cross country, enduros and hare scrambles. 30 years later ..... broken ribs, torn ACL and numerous smaller injuries, but incredible fun. I'd do it all over again if I could!

[Mild MAXX]

cr250 I wouldn't eather. r/c is just as much fun out in the measa theres so much stuff to clime over jump off of. They are building so many houses in what used to be my old riding grounds theres no room for a bike to have any real fun any more but I can still run my Maxxs and have a real blast.

[cr250]

cr250 I wouldn't eather. r/c is just as much fun out in the measa theres so much stuff to clime over jump off of. They are building so many houses in what used to be my old riding grounds theres no room for a bike to have any real fun any more but I can still run my Maxxs and have a real blast.
We have just as many places to ride, development here is almost non-existent. However most property is now posted and patrolled by our state game conservation officers. It really sucks!

[pedeman]

okay, so i got my stuff for my maxx... i got... (2) 3600 bats, Bow Ties and White dish rims (dyed black), and a jr metal gear servo (140-something torque, haha) i feel like i have more power with the 3600's compared to 1800's... is it just me? i opted out of the 7 cells because the guy at the track showed me a esc he melted with 14 cells, so i opted out of that.... also, what motors to run w. the stock esc?

[PCC]

I have a spool in the rear and a home made limted slip in the front so I can turn it around tight corners. I am running 1/8 th scale truggy shocks all around (8) with 10w shock oil and light springs no bead locks whats the point in wasting money on those when they are useless.
I'm trying to come up with a rear-steer setup to allow it to turn sharper.

Why 8 shocks? You don't need them and the extra shocks only add friction to the movement of the suspension.

As for beadlocks being useless, so far I have found that I can reconfigure the tire without having to buy a new set of wheels and tires to experiment. Sure, once I've found a combo that I am happy with I can switch to regular wheels but for now, since I'm experimenting, they work great. The added weight in each corner seems to help, too.

[Legend_Car]

does anyone run the proline bowties with the 23 mil hexs washbash wheels. im looking to turn my emaxx into a racer but dont wanna blow 100 bucks

[pedeman]

legend- i personally, think, that unless you are getting mod motors, i would stick with the stock sized tires, because of the extra weight of the 40 series takes away from acceleratoin... just my point of view... i went with the Pro-Line offset rims (white dish) and the bow ties, and i really like the set-up... good luck

[Mild MAXX]

I'm trying to come up with a rear-steer setup to allow it to turn sharper.

Why 8 shocks? You don't need them and the extra shocks only add friction to the movement of the suspension.

As for beadlocks being useless, so far I have found that I can reconfigure the tire without having to buy a new set of wheels and tires to experiment. Sure, once I've found a combo that I am happy with I can switch to regular wheels but for now, since I'm experimenting, they work great. The added weight in each corner seems to help, too.
true you dont need 8 shocks but when you run 1/2 oz of # 12 lead shot in each tire to add unsprung weight and help with off camber traction you dont notice any extra resistance. We are doing sort of the same thing with the weight. I found that cutting half of every other lug off of the stock tires works best for me. I run mine in sand ,rocks ,street ,dirt ,and even carpet. For me I dont like beedlocks but to each his own right. Good luck with that rear steer project I have seen it done by using a front skid plate and bell cranks with the servo mounted under the frame. Maybe this will help give you some ideas.

[pedeman]

hey... i just got a few quick questions...

1) my E is making a "clicking" sound when i hit the gas or let off... no mod motors, 6 cells.

2) Is there a slipper on this beast?

3) where can i get aluminum tranny gears? spur gears? thanks

[guver]

There's a slipper , it is in the spur gear, but the clicking is usually the diff gears.

[Legend_Car]

check with robinson racing products i have a steel slipper in my e after i ruined the plastic spur doing wheelies lol http://www.robinsonracing.com/

[tadium54]

alum tranny gears will be a)expensive and b) rare to find. look for ultramaxx gears on ebay. they were 200 bucks new when they were availiale, and now theyre not made anymore

[pedeman]

ah, darnit... i want some bullet proof, but cheap... and also light, so i dont lose power...

[RCfrodoRC]

i'm not sure if i want to get a nitro or electric but if i go electric would the e-maxx be the best choice for bashing and maybe some simple crawling.

[pedeman]

well, if you wanna bash, i would recommend getting aluminum bulkheads as you break them (about $100, with braces). i have a small rock pile outside my house that is fun to climb sometimes, but i dont do it much... good luck deciding, and have fun

[RCfrodoRC]

well to me the e-maxx pretty much seems to be one of the best electric trucks compared to most others. and it seems pretty fast.

[Legend_Car]

i need new skid plates what would you guys run?

[Legend_Car]

o yah i need new bumpers any ideas

[metalry101]

Pro-Line bumpers are cheap, strong, and good looking. So are RPM's.

[Legend_Car]

how about skid plates?

[metalry101]

RPM's wear plates rock. That's what I use

Hardcore Racing's titanium skidplates are probably the best, but they're not cheap.

[Legend_Car]

i dont want the rpm ones because you bolt them on the stock plates and my stock ones need to be replaced

[Silent Scope]

why do they need to be replaced?

[Just Gundam]

i dont want the rpm ones because you bolt them on the stock plates and my stock ones need to be replaced

I think there are only 3 choices: stock skids, aluminium skids or titanium skids. If things frequently bump into your truck or you are doing lots of jumps, go titanium.

[Legend_Car]

why do they need to be replaced?

well ive had my e-maxx for 3 years and from rigourous bashing and racing the plates have cracked where the screws mount.

[metalry101]

Aluminum sucks. I honestly think they're worse than stock. They bend, and stay bent. At least plastic springs back out. Go titanium or go home.

[Mild MAXX]

Aluminum sucks. I honestly think they're worse than stock. They bend, and stay bent. At least plastic springs back out. Go titanium or go home.
Thats no lie! I have had my hardcore titanium .21 T-Maxx for 5 years I have jumped it crashed it & bashed it why too hard and it comes back for more & more I mene this is the kind of sutff that puts other trucks in the grave This thing not only lives thorugh but stays running no matter how hard it lands.

[tadium54]

anything rpm is good except the wear plates. I don't care who you are- they dont replace skids and they dont prevent breakage. that was the only rpm pice i regreted putting on my maxx when i had it

[Legend_Car]

i need something strong. any good companies. my track has a big 4 foot tall over under jump or a bridge and the E-maxx trucks get bout 5-7 foot of air and you dont know how they will land. I already stripped my spur on my xxx-t because the jump knocked my motor loose

[tadium54]

again, rpm arms and cvds would be a good place to start. ti turnbuckles and alum bulks would be good too

[Legend_Car]

titianium skidplates any companys.

[Mild MAXX]

titianium skidplates any companys.

Hardocre racing is the only one I know of.

[Just Gundam]

New era also makes titanium skids, and i think they look better and stronger than hardcore's.

[pedeman]

okay guys... i mreally suprised at how well my e-maxx is holding up at my track... i have a about 10 foot long by 4 feet high double thats right out of a corner. half the time you just slide on the face because its wooden and hit a tree :D but, suprisingly, i havent broken anything. also, letting my friends drive it in the woods where the track is, they hit trees, branches, stumps, and still, nothing broken. i really am starting to like this... haha... but one thing that is troubling me... the rear turnbuckle, where it attatches to the arm, the connector peice, can i use one from a Stampede to replace it? thanks

also, what motors do you guys run, and are you happy with them?

[Mild MAXX]

Ijust run stockers they work ok for me.

[Just Gundam]

Stock titans here also, work good but i could use some brushless power to turn my jumbomaxx tires, currently my emaxx will not wheelie with these tires :p .

[pedeman]

okay guys... i went out to my track for a couple battery packs, and its now starting to make noises... when i get on the gas in corners, it makes like a cracking noise... i cant figure it out, i tightened the center sliders, and they didnt fix it.... what might be the problem? is it the diffs? i hope not, and how can i figure out which one it is? thanks

also... how far have YOU jumped your e-maxx?

[Mild MAXX]

Sounds like its the bevel gears in the diffs try spinning one side of each diff to see if it will make the noise. Then try to turn both rear or front tires with the other end on the gorund. This will tell you witch diff and witch gears are bad. I have jumped about 10 feet with my E-Maxx and about 65 feet with my hardcore .21 T-Maxx

[Legend_Car]

wow 65 feet what kind of ramp was it?

[metalry101]

You don't need much of a ramp for that kind of air with a fast truck. My LST has seen that kind of air multiple times. My MGT would fly that far easily if I hit the same ramp with it. Even my Mad Force would do that. 40 mph plus a decent jump equals HUGE air.

[Mild MAXX]

yep it dosen't take much to get scary air with a fast truck just plain your landings & give planty of room for a bad one. my .21 T-Maxx will run about 50 mph I know it will hang with a nitro 4 tech in a drag race.

[Legend_Car]

so if i build a launch ramp about 5 foot high out of wood and my e-maxx goes roughly 30 how much air would i get?

[Just Gundam]

To get the furthest jump, make the launch angle 45 degrees to the ground, to jump higher, increase the launch angle.

[Mild MAXX]

You can try to do the math Speed (in feet per second 5280 times 30 divide 60) times wieght ( of truck ) times distance of ramp ( surface including height so if your ramp is 8 feet long by 5 feet high your distance is 13 feet times angle in degrees ) divide all that by 3.14 ( pie ) and it will give you a good idea ( and A big head ACHE to go with it ). Its just easer to jump your truck and measure the distance after with a tape. have FUN !. Speed and ramp angle have alot to do with distance the longer the ramp the flatter the flight a sharp angle will give you alot of height and not alot of distance.

[Legend_Car]

i think im just gonna build a huge ramp

[Mild MAXX]

Don't go so high you brake your truck one the frist jump

[RrR]

Seen them on the bay Revolver 600 19t(42% more power over stock)Those are just 600 size 19t air plane motors right?Who has run 600 size plane mills in the Maxx?Any one know why the armtures are so bad in the Trinty Maxx motors? Does anyone know where I can get a LeMans 360PT or LeMans 360 Gold?(Kyosho)How much power loss if 540 motors of the same winds are used?What as no one made better 550 stock and mod motors for the Maxx?

[pedeman]

idk... thats what im trying to figure out :confused:

[pedeman]

hey guys... does it make a difference to run a "front" body post in the "rear"?

[PCC]

nope.

[pedeman]

i looked through the WHOLE forum (i know, im a LOSERRR, haha) BUT, anyways, im looking for some tips... i wanna put a buggy wing on my new body. (its late, but its a Dodge suv, im super tired) anyways, how do you guys set it up? any suggestions?

also, yesterday-i got bored (remember the loser part?) and i have a Power Wheels that me and my friends race down hills with the motors and gears taken out. anywho, i weigh about 105, the car weighs about 10, and i can pull myself around with my stock geared e-maxx! it was awesome. diff's didnt like it, cause they're gone... haha

[pedeman]

oh yeah, and maxx owners-off of flea bay, i just got some Punisher Ti. turnbuckles for $14.39 to my front doorstep. im happy :-)

[metalry101]

Dodge SUV? You bought the Parma Durango? I dunno how I'd mount a wing on that body. I'd probably buy some 1/8 wing mounts and figure out a way to attach them to the back of the body, or maybe custom bend some piano wire? That'd be cheaper, and easier to custom fit your body.

[Legend_Car]

does anyone rockcrawl there emaxx what mods are needed? i asume high torque motors

[Legend_Car]

anyone?

[pedeman]

i heard 55T lathe motors are the best. run 1 shock in each corner. idk about anything else.

[pedeman]

woo hoo! just got done painting my new body. it is a Hot Bodies Dodge Ram Durango. the pics are of it with my new paddle tires on Titan rims. im going to the beach tomorrow :)

The colors are:

Fascolor Faspearl Charcol and Fascolor Faschange Red.

please, dont give negative comments, this is my first detailed body (one that is not just one color). thanks

Pics:

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?&members=1&p=3&uid=3744123&gid=7921788&&imgid=106471126#top

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?&members=1&p=3&uid=3744123&gid=7921788&&imgid=106470674#top

[PCC]

does anyone rockcrawl there emaxx what mods are needed? i asume high torque motors
If you read back a page or two I have described my set up for crawling.

[Mild MAXX]

anyone?

I do alot of rock crwaling with my emaxx and I just use stock motors with low gears rear spool soft springs. I do real good.

[rc addict]

AT LAST...I ORDERED MY EMAXX WITH A PAIR OF PRO MATCH GP3300 7 cell packs

[guver]

haha, you will be one happy customer.

[Hotwheelshow]

So i picked up a used emaxx from a bud,and it seems to be a dog.Is there anyway to service the stock motors?

[rc addict]

will my emaxx be fast with the stock titans and 14 matched cells? around how fast will it go? 30?

[rc addict]

i got the tamiya connector version, and im switching to deans ultra plugs by friday, will it go alot faster then?

[guver]

Not quite 30, but with higher gearing it can pull speed runs like that. You will be quite impressed with the set-up you have if you haven't run one yet.

[rc addict]

28mph...27?

[guver]

Not sure, I have no way to measure, but if you look on the box it may say what the speed is with 14 cells.