E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[metalry101]

Traxxas claims 30+ with 14 cells. That probably means 30.01...but hey, it's 30. As for the accuracy of that...honestly, Traxxas in the only manufacturer who I believe when it comes to speed stuff. They say the Jato will do 55, and it does. The T-Maxx does 45. The Nitro 4-Tec does over 60. Traxxas' speed figures are accurate...unlike pretty much everyone else in the industry (when's the last time you saw a Savage .25 with a 2-speed do 40+?).

[pedeman]

haha. nice point metalry101. i like my e-maxx on 6 cells, but i couldnt imagine it on 7.

[rc addict]

thanks for the info guys, you know your stuff...yea i have a nitro 4 tec and its obvious that its doin 60 at least...im sure ill be happy with the emaxx even if it doesnt do 30....i have a nice indoor offroad track down the street to race it on :D

[rc addict]

speaking of which does anyone know if i can get a set of proline 40 series bowties and the 40 series dish rims in a 4 pack al together for a reasonable price?

[pedeman]

there is a guy on here selling yellow Wabash rims for $25 for a set of four...

[rc addict]

ehh i dont like the wabash rims, but i do like the cheyennes and dish...also 23mm hex would be pretty nice...

[rc addict]

do any sites sell them all together?

[pedeman]

not that i know of. probably just sepratley. about $80-$90. have fun :-p

[rc addict]

yea thanks its a b*tch how much you have to pay just for a new set of shoes...
thats what i get for switching to a bigger scale... :rolleyes:

[pedeman]

hahahaha. didnt think of it that way. good point lol. someone on here might have them for $25-35 used. i bought a used set of Proline paddle-maxx tires with rpm titan rims for $25 shipped. haha. good luck man.

[rc addict]

thks, im thinkin of buyin a pair of trinity monster maxx pro motors do you kno if there good? also whats like the first part to usually break in a stock maxx

[metalry101]

The Trinity Monster Maxx motors are junk. Don't waste your time or money on them.

[rc addict]

so your telling me there not even 10% different or faster than the stock titans? i find that hard to beleive seeing as there so expensive...im winning a pair for 20 bucks right now...i have a micr trinity motor and its great i wouldve thought that would be good too...

[metalry101]

For 20 bux you can try them...but don't bother paying full price for them.

As for why they suck, I dunno...probably because Trinity doesn't know anything about 14.4 volt motors. Their 7.2 motors are probably the best brushed motors in the industry...but their E-Maxx motors are junk.

[guver]

There's nothing wrong with those trinity 550's. people use too high voltage with them and burn them up.

[guver]

Let the turns determine the max voltage and they will be great. As far as marketing them for the e-maxx, well I'm not sure about that.

[rc addict]

i see...will two 7 cell matched packs from promatch burn em up?? ill def put heatsinks on em and a fan to help

[guver]

Yes, especially if you got the 17 turn ones.

[metalry101]

So what are they good for then? Would they be any good in my RS4 MT?

[rc addict]

TF is an rs4 mt?

[metalry101]

What does "TF" mean?

[rc addict]

the f*ck lol

[Hotwheelshow]

where do you order 7 cells???

[rc addict]

www.promatch.com

[metalry101]

Why not just type "what?" It's not like those two extra letters would have hurt you.

As for what an RS4 MT is...

It's a belt driven 4WD stadium truck formerly made by HPI. It's ridiculously sweet.

[rc addict]

sorry, www.promatchracing.com

[rc addict]

cause i didnt feel like typin that word

[guver]

So what are they good for then? Would they be any good in my RS4 MT?

I think they are available in 17,19 and 21 turns.,

They will be good in any car/truck/boat with a max cell count of 10,12 and 14. That is what I would consider the absolute max number of cells.

[pedeman]

i posted some pics of my truck on the thread titled "post pictures of your truck". check it out and let me know what you guys think :-)

[Legend_Car]

I just got aluminum front center and rear skids and a servo skid for my Maxx along with proline 40 series bowties on 23 mm velocity rims with the hex adapaters im looking to put an mx-3 in it and i got the rpm bumpers for it .

[rc addict]

is the steering mushy on the emaxx? the tires look huge... i guess that would depend on the servo you have...but i mean the stock one

[Mild MAXX]

is the steering mushy on the emaxx? the tires look huge... i guess that would depend on the servo you have...but i mean the stock one

Simply put yes. if you run a metal gear servo its not

[rc addict]

just got my promatch 7 cells today...they are matched...is there anything i should worry about before charging them since they are 7 cell and matched? i have a dynamite vision peak 2 charger that can handle 7 nimh cells...i just dont know if i should take any precautions so i wont damage my batteries, thanks.

[pedeman]

haha. i love my e-maxx... i dont know who all check my maxx out on the "truck picture thread" but i made a video today of me jumping my truck off that steel ramp. i broke the ramp, so its gone. i had some more battery pack. the roof of our house is my nemisis. i launched it off and i landed, err, crash-landed 36 feet, 10 inches off the house. it was sick. i measured from the rooftop to the divet in the yard (it landed so hard it took a CHUNK out of the ground... my mom was PO'ed. i now have a grass maxx. haha. i wish i had a fire wire and i would try to post videos. damage report:

shattered front bulkheadS
the servo saver BLEW apart. literally, i went looking for the inside spring.
front lower arm broke.

im so glad it didnt destroy my metal gear servo :)

one bad thing, is my new body, has a huge crease in it now. hah... oh well, it was well worth it!!!

[Mild MAXX]

just got my promatch 7 cells today...they are matched...is there anything i should worry about before charging them since they are 7 cell and matched? i have a dynamite vision peak 2 charger that can handle 7 nimh cells...i just dont know if i should take any precautions so i wont damage my batteries, thanks.
Only fast charge your packs once then do a slow charge then you can do another fast charge then another slow one and let the packs cool down between runs & charges this will help you get the best performance for the longest time. I do this and I am still on my frist set of 6 cell packs Ive had them almost 4 years I guess I must be doing something right for them to last this long.

[Legend_Car]

that ramp was sweet too bad you cant post a vid. i told my mom i want to build a a jump and jump they garage and she wasnt too fond of that

[pedeman]

haha. im working on that right now :)

[rc addict]

mildmaxx- thanks for your advice, but what do you mean by fast charging and slow charging? my charger just has this selector where you selct the amount of cells, then you push the start button and it peak charges it...do you know how i can fast charge it?

[rc addict]

ohhh do you mean charge at different amp ratings?? what amp rating for fast charge should i use? what amp rating for slow charging should i use? my options are 1 amp,2 amp, and 4 amp

[Jeckler]

I'd charge 'em at 4amps and be done with it. Are they SxS or stick packs?

Dumb question time.
I just got a set of Associated motor heat sinks. Should I snap them on over the flux covers, or remove those and attach them directly to the motor? The heat sinks fit both ways, but I'm wondering if it'd be better for heat dissipation vs. increased magnetic fields, which may or may not be a load of BS anyway.

[Hotwheelshow]

Hey guys!Im lookin for info on cvds...i keep breakin the stock set up but the prog i have is that it is NOT a widemaxx...it is the old style...will the new cvds fit it?Or does anyone have an old set of non wide cvds they wanna sell?thx!

[PCC]

Where are you breaking them? Just behind the head at the differential end? If so your pillow balls are too far in and your outdrives are rubbing a groove into the CVD bone which becomes a weak point and then it breaks.

I have five or six of the narrow MIP CVDs and I just need an excuse to upgrade to the wideMaxx setup.

[Hotwheelshow]

well if ya wanna sell let me kno...mine keep breakin at the output yolk(sp?)where it comes out of the front diff...

[rc addict]

umm wait so mildmaxx, what amp rating for fast charge and what amp rating for slow charge? i still havent gotten it quite clear yet...

[Mild MAXX]

ohhh do you mean charge at different amp ratings?? what amp rating for fast charge should i use? what amp rating for slow charging should i use? my options are 1 amp,2 amp, and 4 amp
Slow would be 1 amp use this when you have plentty of time to charge your packs. 4 amps would be a fast charge for between runs. always let your packs cool down after you run them and don't run them complately dead like you would a nicad nimh packs don't like that. If you do it too many times they will false peak and wont charge to there full capisity. I charge my packs when I notice the truck slowing down & the packs are at about 40% they dont seem to be as hot at this point. This is the way I run my packs and only advise so use it as a starting point to see what your packs want just watch your heat that will distory your nimh packs faster then anything else you do.

[rc addict]

ah, on my m18 ive never even slowed down with my pack but i charge it anyway after uses, so i guess im doing the right thing now, thanks for clearing it up

[Mild MAXX]

sounds like its right glad to help. have fun

[rc addict]

thank you very much, cant wait to open it on the 24th!! its just sitting in that big ups box i havent even gotten a chance to see the packaging!!!

[ArcadeFire]

Hey guys,
Just recently someone made a proposition to trade my Team Losi XXX-NT with an OS .15 and my HPI Rush Evo for a stock E-Maxx. Personally I ve been a fan of the E-Maxx for a while now and I m really stumped because I love my trucks very much but I ve always wanted an E-Maxx. Money wise I m broke so this trade is the only way I ll get an E-Maxx. So my question is do I do it or do I keep my trucks? I don t want to go through with the trade and end up unhappy afterwards so all you E-Maxxers can you help me and figure out what I do ??

All help would be most appreciated

[pedeman]

hey man. i wouldnt. you would be 100% better off just selling your trucks and buying a E-Maxx. so unless its NIB, then i wouldnt even think of it

[Mild MAXX]

ArcadeFire I love my E-Maxx butt it is not worth trading two nitros for if I where you I would save up the money keep your eyes open on line and wait for a good one too come along you'll be able to get one for a lot less then you think.

[Hotwheelshow]

Hey guys...how do you tighten up the slipper clutch without the motors turnin?i thought to jam somethin in the motor but when i looked i thk someone already did???Some of the motor fins were missin?Is this bad?

[guver]

hold the truck or hold the spur gear if the cover is off.

[Hotwheelshow]

thx!Ok well what about the missin fins in the motor?

[Mild MAXX]

thx!Ok well what about the missin fins in the motor?
Do they get hot or dose one get hotter then the other? if one or both are running hotter then normal it may be a problem.

[pedeman]

the easiest way to tighten the slipper is to hold the tool and push the truck. thats how i do it anyways

[guver]

Yes, it may make it run hotter, also it will throw the balance off. There isn't much you can do about itnow, unless you are comfortable taking it apart and replacing the fan.

good luck finding one though as it is probably not worth it. I keep all my old junk motors and then turn the comms and use all the goodest brushes and parts when I feel like rebuilding. I have yet to find a source for new brushes though.

[rc addict]

will there ever be an electric 4 wheel independent suspension truck that can compete with the emaxx? i know traxxas said no to an E-Revo, but it would be so worth it just to see what they can do. amybe an electric lst? lol

[tomato_dance]

I would love to have an BLEJato.

Brushless Electric Jato :p

[pedeman]

i think a dual BL e-maxx would be awesome :-P anyone ever thought of this? im thinking of doing it. im not too worried about the money issue, ill just work more. but im not sure if two will make much of a big difference over one... hmmmm... thoughts?

and im not sure if i can do this, but does anyone have any servo savers (like the one pro line had), any RPM arms (all 8 total, widemaxx) or aluminum arms, and aluminum front bulkheads they would like to sell? if so, please e-mail me at racerman85@msn.com. thanks.

if i cant post that please delete it moderators.

[guver]

will there ever be an electric 4 wheel independent suspension truck that can compete with the emaxx? i know traxxas said no to an E-Revo, but it would be so worth it just to see what they can do. amybe an electric lst? lol

How about that hot bodies thing? bug? zilla?

It may just out do the e-maxx, it has 550 motrs and may be somewhat lighter.

[metalry101]

Check out the thread about that Hot Bodies E-Zilla in the Monster Truck Forum. The truck looks great in the pictures! I can't wait to get my hands on one and see what it's like.

[rc addict]

is hot bodies good? i havent heard of them up until about a couple weeks ago, the truck looks ok...

[rc addict]

ha after looking at it again, it looks like nothin but an electric savage!! to me thats not even worth buyin, it doesnt look that customizable i dont like the side mounted battery pack idea. And not that this matters, but whats with the ugly buggy body????

[metalry101]

It doesn't look customizable, but an E-Maxx does? You're not familiar with the Savage, are you? The Savage is a great truck, and the E-Zilla looks to be just as good.

[rc addict]

im not saying the savage isnt a great truck, it looks like hotbodies copied off it thats all im sayin, the emaxx looks to be customizable because it has a wide array of aftermarket parts available for it and a reputation like no other rc car, but i havent heard of hotbodies so i wouldnt expect much aftermarket parts other than the ones backed by the company itself. I know the savage is a great truck, i just dont like the idea of dual motors on a twin vertical plate chassis, theres osmething i dont like about it thats just my opinion..

[ArcadeFire]

Personally I think the truck is pretty awesome. IMO the truck looks very upgradible, from the chaisis to the electronics every thing looks like it could be upgraded. The truck its self looks very strong considering the savages track record with the TVP design being very sturdy. I hope that Novak is tooling up a HV-ZILLA brushless system for it other wise a Hacker would be great.
But thats just my 2 cents

[rc addict]

well maybe the hv maxx fits in the e-zilla, i would imagine tvp chassis are much more stiff, but i dont know why i dont like them so much

[tomato_dance]

I have a feeling the savage parts will fit it...

[Hotwheelshow]

Can someone help?I read on here how to adjust slipper so i did...now on takeoff there is a grinding/hesitation before full power is reached?Anyone kno whats up?thx in advance!

[Legend_Car]

got my new proline 40 series and bowties on with the 40 series adapter and a new gmc stadium body then i got up to full speed and lost the nut holding the adapter on and rolled the truck like 3 times and i need a new nut and drive pin

[metalry101]

got my new proline 40 series and bowties on with the 40 series adapter and a new gmc stadium body then i got up to full speed and lost the nut holding the adapter on and rolled the truck like 3 times and i need a new nut and drive pin
ROFLMAO

That sucks...but it's still hilarious.

[Legend_Car]

it woulda made a good video cuz i was moving to then i rolled and my tire flew off

[rc addict]

how do electric vehicles brake? do the electric motors just spin the other way or just stop moving? Electric braking seems weak from my experience

[Jeckler]

Some ESC's have better braking than others.
I've flipped my Maxx over forward by jamming on the brakes from full speed. It has very good brakes.

[02drift]

Just bought a used e-maxx. I gotta say so far im NOT impressed with it!
I used it for a total of 2 mins when i broke 2 axels and it would not turn (standard servo)

I have since bought a full set of cvds incl the centers ( might go to BL unless there is a better/faster option), servo saver, hitec 645 servo.

With all this installed its running better but it is very noisey, i moved 1 of the motors away from the spur gear and the truck was quiet, so i put it back and moved the other motor and it was also quiet, so its not the motors

Are the gear boxes noisey?? and are the 'spose to have oil in them? what sort? (maybe needs a top up?)

im still running GP 3300 6 cell batts but once i sort out the other probs with the truck i will get some 7 cell batts.

1 more question! is there a "reset" button for the esc? As i would like to set it up from scratch. The guy i bought it from didnt seem to have a clue about the truck so i dont know what he's done to it.

Ps: i did use the search button to answer some of my questions just not all of them!

Thanks for any help you can offer!

Jase

[02drift]

maybe 1 more question

can i use WD-40 as a motor spray, the look pretty dirty in there

[pedeman]

i had the same problem with the noise. i took apart my diffs (i had already installed RRP steel ones) and just simply cleaned them. i also cleaned the transmission and put in some grease. seemed to clear things up.

but 02drift i would start with the diff first.

[Hotwheelshow]

update...my motors are worse?Give it throttle and it grinds and barely xcellerates!Is this a motor prob or somethin else?

[guver]

sounds like the slipper is toasted from slipping or your motor finally burnt up.

[guver]

o2 drift's trouble sounds like gear mesh. use a motor spray for motor cleaner.

[rc addict]

are the motors rebuildable, and do they have changeable brushes?

[02drift]

Thanks guys i'll try the gear mesh first as its easy then i'll trey the diffs


What about the esc can they be reset?

[02drift]

Just bought a used e-maxx. I gotta say so far im NOT impressed with it!
I used it for a total of 2 mins when i broke 2 axels and it would not turn (standard servo)

I have since bought a full set of cvds incl the centers ( might go to BL unless there is a better/faster option), servo saver, hitec 645 servo.

With all this installed its running better but it is very noisey, i moved 1 of the motors away from the spur gear and the truck was quiet, so i put it back and moved the other motor and it was also quiet, so its not the motors

Are the gear boxes noisey?? and are the 'spose to have oil in them? what sort? (maybe needs a top up?)

im still running GP 3300 6 cell batts but once i sort out the other probs with the truck i will get some 7 cell batts.

1 more question! is there a "reset" button for the esc? As i would like to set it up from scratch. The guy i bought it from didnt seem to have a clue about the truck so i dont know what he's done to it.

Ps: i did use the search button to answer some of my questions just not all of them!

Thanks for any help you can offer!

Jase


Well now that some of the problems are sorted (gear mesh, Thanks guver) and can drive the truck now( cvds and new servo ) its not that bad!! :D just gave my backyard a hiding and its running all good. It wheels stands without even trying!

Can't wait to get some 7 cells in there! :eek:

Thanks for the help guys Im off to find some dirt

[Hotwheelshow]

sounds like the slipper is toasted from slipping or your motor finally burnt up.

How do you check if its the slipper?Sorry if this a dumb question its just that im new at this...Its gettin worse now too...in grass it hardly accelerates and the noise is worse...HELP!

[guver]

take the plastic gear cover off and while standing on the tires just push the throttle and you will see where the input shaft is not turning, but the spur gear is. To test it also try to tighten the nut up on the shaft with the spring. Usually if that slipper slips for very long it will get hot and melt the spur gear.

[Legend_Car]

sorry 02 drift about your emaxx problems but id like to say im happy with my emaxx i got new proline 40 series bowties and velocity rims and i mounted a 190mm mazda 6 body and i tightened the diff and it wheelstands on acceleration i call it the monster mazda.

[02drift]

After playing around with for a bit and spending a bit of cash i have to say its not all that bad, I have an EK4 so im used to the "problem" truck!!

My e-maxx is running good now so im happy

[rc addict]

hey legend i gotta see that mazda monster truck! post some pics real soon. As i was sayin before are the brushes changable and are the motors rebuildable? and i guess if not thats probably why everyone replaces the emaxx titans so fast...

[Legend_Car]

idk how to post pics youll have to teach me

[rc addict]

hit the "post reply" button above the quick reply, and when that loads, youll see an icon that says manage attachments...then click that and hit browse and look up where the image is saved and click it. then hit attach image. then you are done and you can send it.

[Legend_Car]

now i need a new spur i melted mine today what size do i need would this work http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJC4&P=7

[metalry101]

No.

If you had the Robinson dual disk slipper, technically it would work, but you don't want a metal spur gear on an electric vehicle. Instead of occassionally stripping a 3 dollar plastic spur, you'd destroy two 4 dollar aluminum pinions. Lock the slipper down, get the gear mesh right, and go blow up some diffs. If you have your gear mesh right you should almost never strip a spur on an E-Maxx.

[guver]

I have never stripped my e-maxx, but I keep stripping the twin force . what's up with that? they are both the same pitch. I set the same mesh and power out put too.

[metalry101]

I have never stripped my e-maxx, but I keep stripping the twin force . what's up with that? they are both the same pitch. I set the same mesh and power out put too.
I dunno...maybe the Twin Force's motor plate flexes? Or maybe the motors just move around a little? I can see that happening since a Twin Force is all over the place (that's why it's so much fun :D), whereas an E-Maxx just soaks up everything. Other than that...I dunno. I only stripped on spur while I had my Twin Force, and that was my fault.

[Legend_Car]

i have the robinson slipper clutch can someone supply a link of what one to buy

[metalry101]

This (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJB7) is what comes with the Robinson kit that you have.

[Legend_Car]

that would work then ok i have the stock spur i think. but i have robinson slipper. maybe i do have the robinson one its just melted so bad

[pedeman]

anyone have any of these stock parts?

front lower arm, servo saver, and 2 front bulks they wanna get rid of? i dont care if they are used. i dont want junk stuff though. i wouldnt mind some aluminum front bulks, either.

[Mild MAXX]

are the motors rebuildable, and do they have changeable brushes?
stock titens are not butt they are chep just replace them. Some times you can find good used ones. Check with the local E-Maxx crowd at your track(s) and or hobbie shop(s) if some one put in a set of mods you'll be able to talk them out of there stockers real chep. that is if you want stockers?

[Legend_Car]

so if i have the robinson racing slipper clutch watch spur gear do i need link plz

[rc addict]

OPENED UP MY EMAXX FOR MY BIRTHDAY TODAY, IT WAS AMAZING, put in the 14 cells and straps, decalled the body, placed the antenna and i was set to go , i love this truck, its amazingly fast!!!

[Hotwheelshow]

Congrats Dude!!!

[Eli the rc guy]

I was just wondering. How much do u guys buy the car for anyways? Because i was looking at them on e-bay and some sell the E-Maxx for $500 and some for $200. I wont to sell my losi xxx-s because i ceep breaking stuff, and buya truck.:)

[guver]

E-maxx? is around $299 - $279. I can't sell my brand new one for $269.

Anyways I will ask here, I got no response on the general forum.

When I get a notice and click the link in e-mail it goes to pg 72 instead of the latest page (75) what determines that?

[rc addict]

does the same thing to me when i click the link, it might be something to do with us posting...

[Eli the rc guy]

is that US dollars? becuase i live in Canada. >.< o yea the price u gave me its for a new car? Because i dont think i have the budget for a new E-Maxx. :o

[guver]

Yep, us dollars I am finally putting my e-maxx back together. It is going to be locked in 2nd gear, 16-17 cells with parallel 27 turn motors. and 2pl radio. It almost was 2 wheel drivwe cuz it had a bad diff, but I found a used diff so it is 4wd.

If I do go to two wheel is there any rib tires for the front?

[rc addict]

i turned on my maxx and only one battery was connected then i plugged in the other one and it sparked in the connection, do you think anything was damaged?

[guver]

Haha, 4 runs on the e-maxx with yucky 12 cells and the twin force motors seem as fast as the e-maxx motors, time to go higher volts.

I doubt anything was hurt when you plugged it in. One batt powers everything up andf the other side is just a dummy side to add cells in series.

For example the servo/esc side needs 5-8 cells. The other side don't matter how many cells it has. 0-12 have been used by me on the dummy side. Total should not be over 16 or 17 cells.

[rc addict]

thanks for the info man, yea im runnin 14 matched cells in it now and it rips, so its just the 7 cells on one side that count?? how are both motors powered by one pack?

[guver]

Both motors are powered by all the cells in series. Only one pack powers the servos and evx. This side needs 5-8 cells. The other side can use any number. well almost any number.

[rc addict]

Both motors are powered by all the cells in series. Only one pack powers the servos and evx. This side needs 5-8 cells. The other side can use any number. well almost any number.
ahh i see

[metalry101]

If I do go to two wheel is there any rib tires for the front?
Imex makes some. The Rib Dawgs I believe.

[RCfrodoRC]

hey guys do u know what a good charger is that charges two batteries at the same time, also i want one that isn't a lot of money, and charges pretty fast. thx

[guver]

Hmm, how about a twin pulse by duratrax. It is very simple, no adjustmants and almost as cheap as you will find. A step up from that would be the 969 by Mrc.

[rc addict]

Im sure youve all seen the latest issue of rcca, regarding the lithium polymer battery packs. can i use 2 scorpion 3200 lithium polymer packs on my emaxx with the scorpion charger? I dont know if the evx can handle that kind of power, but the packs have some sort of cut off chip in them so you dont have to necessarily change the esc, let me know if this is do-able...

[Mild MAXX]

hey guys do u know what a good charger is that charges two batteries at the same time, also i want one that isn't a lot of money, and charges pretty fast. thx
when you find one a good one let me know i will go get one. The one dynamite puts out is ok for nicd but not nimh.

[Hotwheelshow]

Im considering the Duratrax twin pulse charger...whattaya think?

[Mild MAXX]

I havent heard anything good or bad nor doI know anything about it. Dose it do nimh packs? If you get one lmk how it works for you.

[rc addict]

Im sure youve all seen the latest issue of rcca, regarding the lithium polymer battery packs. can i use 2 scorpion 3200 lithium polymer packs on my emaxx with the scorpion charger? I dont know if the evx can handle that kind of power, but the packs have some sort of cut off chip in them so you dont have to necessarily change the esc, let me know if this is do-able...
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[rc addict]

also whats the most cost effective aftermarket servo for the maxx right now?

[Mild MAXX]

HI Tec HS-625MG its about $50 but dollar for dollar its probley the best

[02drift]

yeah i just bought a Hitec hs 645MG fully shipped to Australia for AU $50

I think it was US $38 BARGIN when they are AU 80-90 bux over here

[Mild MAXX]

I run a 5945 mg digatl in both my t-maxxs and a 625 mg in my e-maxx & rc 10 gt they work greate and have more then enough touqe to turn the big tires of the maxx trucks. you should be very pleased with your deal.

[rc addict]

sounds good i see them on ebay for in the 20s

[rc addict]

can i use the scorpion lipo packs in the emaxx with the evx?

[guver]

You can probably use the 2s ones that are 6400 mah ok and maybe just plug the evx into one of them, it should protect them both if they are equal mah.

[rc addict]

wait a sec, your sayin use one lipo pack that puts out 6400 mah, but plug it into one of the connectors on the evx?? one side powers motors and other powers esc, servos and receiver...so how would i get one pack to cover both on only one plug?

[Mild MAXX]

Youll have to dumey plug the other side. to do this just take a plug and tie the two wires together. This will make the evx think it is using both packs. Are these 6400 mah packs 7.2 or 8.4 volt if so it shouldnt hrit to run them as you would do any other after all its the voltage not the ampshtat makes the heat that do these things in. I have run 4 3300mah packs as a two pack set up with two in perell and then in to my evx I have done this alot and I havent fried it so far I would try it and if it gets hot dont do it again. Becuse youll lose speed if you run one pack from the drop in voltage.

[rc addict]

what? lol

[guver]

I am saying to use two 6400 mah packs, but only plug the evx into one of the packs LCV. This should protect both li-po packs by shutting it down.

[pedeman]

okay... stupid question here guys...

i just replaced the front bulks, and when i hit the gas my maxx doesnt move... all tires move... just in diffeent directions... im assuming i put the tranny in wrong? what is it? thanks...

[metalry101]

okay... stupid question here guys...

i just replaced the front bulks, and when i hit the gas my maxx doesnt move... all tires move... just in diffeent directions... im assuming i put the tranny in wrong? what is it? thanks...

You installed the front diff backwards.

[rc addict]

anyone wanna sell some 40 series bowties lol even if there somewhat used...

[rc addict]

guys i really need your opinions on this...im mad i bought a dynamite vision peak two charger...it doesnt even beep when my battery is peak charged. I run two promatch 7 cells and so far ive left the pack charging at 2 amps rate for around 5 minutes after peak voltage, and when i finally realize how stupid i am that i left them charging, theyre hot...can the cells handle this, and will they potentially lose their charging capacity? i really hope i havent ruined the cells...it happened about 2 or 3 times to each one and i put a fan to cool it off afterwards

[Mild MAXX]

guys i really need your opinions on this...im mad i bought a dynamite vision peak two charger...it doesnt even beep when my battery is peak charged. I run two promatch 7 cells and so far ive left the pack charging at 2 amps rate for around 5 minutes after peak voltage, and when i finally realize how stupid i am that i left them charging, theyre hot...can the cells handle this, and will they potentially lose their charging capacity? i really hope i havent ruined the cells...it happened about 2 or 3 times to each one and i put a fan to cool it off afterwards
If the charger is new take it back if you can if you cant then you need to get another charger that works it sounds like the peak dection is set to high (it takes too much of a voltage drop to trip it off ). I would not useit again but if you do keep a close eye on it watch for no more then .30 drop in voltage .10 is what most bats like. chare you batts slow and they should be fine.

[rc addict]

thanks for the advice, forget the bowties ill start savin for a duratrax ice

[rc addict]

the ezilla will NOT walk all over the emaxx, its just simply a different design that doesnt mean its faster...it could be more durable

[Heavy Metal]

I need some advice. I have saved up plenty to get whatever I want. I would like to start off with the e-maxx but I'm really unsure about it. It's been suggested that I start with the stampede but I really want a 4wd that has a lot more options for mods and what not. I'm not really into mods but the fact remains I just don't know yet but I'd like that option to be open you know.

[rc addict]

emaxx by far has the most aftermarket support, im sure that some parts are interchangeable between the two, and there are some things you can upgrade on the stampede, but the emaxx is a truck which there is no part you cant replace or upgrade...go with the emaxx...more torque, more speed, its durable, youll be happy with it

[rc addict]

i wanna run my emaxx when the snow comes this winter...im intimidated by the idea of snow turning to water and it ruining literally everything in my emaxx...what precautions should i take, and what should i protect...and how? tell me what to do and not to do when running in the snow...the guys at slapmafro didnt seem to have a problem but they know what theyre doing...do i have to get the electronics dipped in something? or should i just not do it at all...

[Maxx42]

i wanna run my emaxx when the snow comes this winter...im intimidated by the idea of snow turning to water and it ruining literally everything in my emaxx...what precautions should i take, and what should i protect...and how? tell me what to do and not to do when running in the snow...the guys at slapmafro didnt seem to have a problem but they know what theyre doing...do i have to get the electronics dipped in something? or should i just not do it at all...
http://mattsrcstuff.com/maxxwaterproof.htm You can check here for some waterproofing tips. I haven't tried them out myself, but this guy has run some tests and reported the results on his site (which is pretty old and doesn't appear to be updated any more). Hope this helps.

[Heavy Metal]

Okay now that I'm going with the e maxx, is it better to buy new or used?
I've been looking on ebay but it's hard to find one that has both the esc and widemaxx suspension. :confused:
Also, I have a creek behind my house and we have a few trails running in a track for our four wheeler, and for most part of the year it is mostly damp with a few puddles, but after rains it normally becomes a mud boggin dream for a four wheeler and I know now that the temptation to take the e maxx down there will be irresistable. :D What kind of precautions should I take? And we're aslo talking about some serious puddles if not the creek flowing over half the track. :)

[Heavy Metal]

Another question, would Venom 3000 packs be good for an e-maxx in terms of length? Or does anyone have suggestions for a better pack that would last longer? Also what would be a great charger to get?

[rc addict]

any more advice for running the maxx in the snow?
thank you by the way

[Maxx42]

any more advice for running the maxx in the snow?
thank you by the way
Paddle tires are the way to go if you're going to be running in deep snow.

[rc addict]

well, the metal shielded bearings will definitely be screwed if i run it in the snow but the shower cap idea is good, and ill saran wrap it just to be extra sure...but the drive shafts and differential bearings will be screwed, as well as anything metal that moves that isnt on the chassis

[rc addict]

ill just have to dry it if it melts immediately

[MXman]

Hey does anyone have any information regarding the EVX in these trucks..I have a problem and do not know what to do???when I turn on the power switch ...the truck takes off forward ....with no throttle input....there is no light on the EVX....but the truck seems to be at 3/4 throttle forward...when I throttle up... the light turns solid green and slightly increases in speed ...when the throttle is returned to nuetral it continues to run at 3/4 throttle forward..with no light visable on the EVX..when throttle position is moved to reverse...there is no change = 3/4 throttle forward...no light..I have repeatily tried to reset the EVX with the one touch set-up button with no change in throttle response ...any help would be appericiated ...thanks ...LMK ...MXman

[rc addict]

how do you know when the slipper clutch pegs have worn??? around how long does it take for the slipper clutch to wear out on a stock truck...ive only used it about 6 times and i drive mildly with the occasional wheely or two and heavy throttle take-offs

[Mild MAXX]

how do you know when the slipper clutch pegs have worn??? around how long does it take for the slipper clutch to wear out on a stock truck...ive only used it about 6 times and i drive mildly with the occasional wheely or two and heavy throttle take-offs
I have never replaced my slipper pegs in any of mytrucks.

[Mild MAXX]

Hey does anyone have any information regarding the EVX in these trucks..I have a problem and do not know what to do???when I turn on the power switch ...the truck takes off forward ....with no throttle input....there is no light on the EVX....but the truck seems to be at 3/4 throttle forward...when I throttle up... the light turns solid green and slightly increases in speed ...when the throttle is returned to nuetral it continues to run at 3/4 throttle forward..with no light visable on the EVX..when throttle position is moved to reverse...there is no change = 3/4 throttle forward...no light..I have repeatily tried to reset the EVX with the one touch set-up button with no change in throttle response ...any help would be appericiated ...thanks ...LMK ...MXman
Find a friend with another r/c plug your evx into there reciver see if it is your raido or not first if it is the evx traxxas will repair it if you ship it to them. Contact traxxas at www.traxxas.com before you send it they will give you a repair order number. They will also tell you where to send it and what info they need.

[rc addict]

mild maxx would it be something else that wears out in the slipper cluitch faster? like the discs or something

[rc addict]

oh another thing can you bolt any brushless motor into the stock emaxx being that you upgrade some of the driveline components, or do you need a new mount

[Hotwheelshow]

WOW guys ...ok...now i KNOW there is something wrong with my "old" e-maxx!I picked up a new one recently and finally got a chance to run it...AMAZING!!!Compared to my old one which i bought used so never had anything to compare to anything...Its that much better !!!What could be up?I figure my old motors are fried as it does not even sound well while driving...maybe ill swap motors to be sure...Any other ideas to "wake up" the old e-maxx??It gets whopped by the new real bad...

[rc addict]

everyone recalls the rcca mag issue with the hv-maxx brushless motor test right? was rcca just bs'ing with all that drivtrain bling you have to add? i think there all talk, and all i would upgrade are mip cvd centers and outdrives, traxxas lightweight metal idlers, and a robinson racing slipper clutch kit...maybe a kimbrough spur

[Mild MAXX]

mild maxx would it be something else that wears out in the slipper cluitch faster? like the discs or something
no the pegs are an enignered wear point see I dont use my sliper (s) I keep them tight all the time and let the clutchs on the nitros do the work and my e-maxx moves so slow as it is if I use the sliper it wont climb anything it would just spin the sliper. If you use your sliper alot the pegs will wear down over time and that amount of wear would depend on how loose you like to run it. If you want try tighting down your sliper all the way and see if your problem is still there if not then replace the pegs. Those steal drive rings wont wear unless you take sand paper to them, witch if there glazed real bad that may not be a bad idea it would help the new or old pegs grab alittle better you might try that befor you send money on new pegs right away.

[Mild MAXX]

oh another thing can you bolt any brushless motor into the stock emaxx being that you upgrade some of the driveline components, or do you need a new mount
I think it has to be a 550 size case to fit I dont know if the smaller case fits

[Mild MAXX]

everyone recalls the rcca mag issue with the hv-maxx brushless motor test right? was rcca just bs'ing with all that drivtrain bling you have to add? i think there all talk, and all i would upgrade are mip cvd centers and outdrives, traxxas lightweight metal idlers, and a robinson racing slipper clutch kit...maybe a kimbrough spur
I would just put in the new motor system and then replace what it breaks. pick youself a week link a part that is easy to replace and cheep like drive lines. I keeped the centers plastic on my .30 t-maxx there simple to get to and cheep to replace even the cheep plastic center drive lines last a good long time about 10 runs or so. You probley find you dont need 1/2 of all that bling stuff.

[rc addict]

thanks alot mild maxx, i like those cvd outdrives because in the event of a crash and you break an a-arm, the cvds will likely hold up, but the center driveshafts will be fine stock, but i need to put a center skid on it. I am really thinking about giving my truck the rpm a arm, shocktower, and bumper treatment...the parts are nylon, very lightweight, durable, and best of all...cheap perfect for racing and bashing

[rc addict]

i heard their skids were crap though

[Mild MAXX]

i heard their skids were crap though
I made mine out of a pice of sheet steal I had laying around then had a friend powder coat it blue it dosent wighe any more then the plastic ones and gives alot better protection.

[Mild MAXX]

I used 16 guage steal

[rc addict]

wanna sell me one? lol

[pedeman]

this sucks... my e-maxx is put together wrong, but i cant fix it cause i have a broken arm (as-of-yesterday:() maybe ill get my brother to do it... idk if i can drive it tho... haha

[Mild MAXX]

wanna sell me one? lol

Sure send me a p.m. so we don;t tie up the thread.

[rc addict]

gotcha

[ArmyMaxx]

I just got my E-Maxx yesterday and already broke the rear bulkheads while jumping it. I landed upside down. I guess I need more practice. At least it gives me an excuse to buy aluminum bulkheads.

[rc addict]

also if your gonna do that youll probably want some tougher shock towers seeing as now if you land upside down, all the released energy will go there...i suggest rpm shocktowers...cheap and tough as hell

[Hotwheelshow]

I heard titans wear out fast...is this true???

[metalry101]

I heard titans wear out fast...is this true???
No, they usually last quite a while. If you overgear them, they do tend to burn up, like any electric motor, but when geared correctly and cleaned every so often, they usually last a long, long time.

[ArmyMaxx]

my quick fix to the broken bulkhead. drilled some holes and put in zip ties. just until my new ones com in.

[pedeman]

any way to make bulkheads stronger? any idea on that?

[rc addict]

lol maybe coat them in something that has a high melting point...indicating it might be a strong material...but idk...if you break the bulkhead what i would try is to put it in a workbench and blow torch/melt the bulkhead pieces backtogether...but doing it quickly and not melting too much so that ultimately the bulkhead wont be different in size by too much...just a thought...idk if composite can even be melted..well its just plastic

[rc addict]

is it true that all integy parts are crap? what about their new type 3 race suspension kit...comes with everything..is it lighter? more durable? i heard integy is all for show and no go...i hope it doesnt weigh down the maxx more

[gixxer]

was rcca just bs'ing with all that drivtrain bling you have to add? i think there all talk, and all i would upgrade are mip cvd centers and outdrives, traxxas lightweight metal idlers, and a robinson racing slipper clutch kit...maybe a kimbrough spur

Yes and no. Based on breaking parts within 3 runs. The most important to least would be:
1. Metal Idler gear.
2. Rear Mip CVD.
3. Front Mip Cvd.
4. Kimburg spur gear
5. Center cvd.

Robinson racing slipper is junk! dont' buy it. They want you so sand off the shaft to fit a stupid bearing :eek: Guess what do it wrong and the gear is wobblie :mad:

[rc addict]

thats stupid lol im not sanding off crap

[Mild MAXX]

is it true that all integy parts are crap? what about their new type 3 race suspension kit...comes with everything..is it lighter? more durable? i heard integy is all for show and no go...i hope it doesnt weigh down the maxx more
Its been my experance that integy is pretty & shiny but not usefull in the real world of racing. As we all know if they wont make it on the track they wont live in the back yard.

[rc addict]

thats interesting thanks for the input, how is it not useful if you dont mind me asking? i just wanna know so i wont end up buying the wrong stuff? mild would you recommend rpm stuff for racing/bashing?

[pedeman]

i would get the rpm stuff...

and as for integy, i dont think its worth the money. i got mini-t kit and the polishing job isint that great with some little bubbles here and there. not as high quality as i was looking for, but i guess you get what you pay for?

[Mild MAXX]

The quality is the biggest thing. As far as racing/bashing there just not strong enough to hold up to the punsihment no alum. part will take it they are just to ridged plastic will give a bitt before it brakes. Metal bends and stays bent.

[ArmyMaxx]

Just wondering if it possible to use the t-maxx chassis on the e-maxx. All the aftermarket chassis for the E-Maxx are really expensive.

[ArmyMaxx]

http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=122

I just found these at new era models. has anyone ever used them and are the any good.

[badboy2]

im lookin for a bl set up for my maxx is there anything around 200bux?

[fuzzy2133]

http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=122

I just found these at new era models. has anyone ever used them and are the any good.

I got that chassis since I did not trust a graphite chassis. it is ok, my problem is with the 7 cell packs I have to get the gorrila batt. straps pretty tight to keep the packs in place.

[rc addict]

won this off ebay, anybody think this is a good deal. 60 bucks... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5998855579&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

[rc addict]

the bulkheads normally go for 60 bucks, chassis braces 40 bucks, cv driveshafts 37.99, im probably gonna sell the unneeded tmaxx engine mount...anybody want it

[ArmyMaxx]

I want to start up-grading my E-MAXX and was wondering what all of you would recommend that I do first.

[pedeman]

7 cell batteries. then more batteries. and some more. cant go wrong with a couple sets

[guver]

then add some more..

oh I just hit a RR tie with the front wheel and it looks like a broken bulk,skid,chassis bolt, ect. bummer,,

[Chachi_RC]

Hey guys! So here is the deal....I absolutely love my EMaxx, but I have had some issues. Here is what I have been running into:
1) I break bulkheads....often. Mostly rear, but some front. I bash, not race with it. I guess I am asking if going to aluminum bulks are the way to go. I hear if you go with just one component in metal, you better do the whole thing. Am I the only one, or does this happen to you too?
2)So I just got some 7 cell batts from cheapbatterypacks.com that are made for the EMaxx. The first run I had with them was incredible. The first upgrade to make an EMaxx faster should be 7 cells. But, my problem is that I tore up my slipper. I usually run it pretty tight, as I have read on here, that is the way to go. So I replaced the pegs, went to a 70 tooth spur (my LHS only had this one in stock), and it tore it up again. Stock it comes with 6 pegs installed. If I go to 12 would that help? I also read on here that the Robinson Racing clutch isn't worth it. Is that right? Any ideas on this clutch issue?
Those are my questions at this point. Thanks guys!

[Legend_Car]

whats the most weight you think an emaxx could pull?

[metalry101]

Hey guys! So here is the deal....I absolutely love my EMaxx, but I have had some issues. Here is what I have been running into:
1) I break bulkheads....often. Mostly rear, but some front. I bash, not race with it. I guess I am asking if going to aluminum bulks are the way to go. I hear if you go with just one component in metal, you better do the whole thing. Am I the only one, or does this happen to you too?

2)...But, my problem is that I tore up my slipper. I usually run it pretty tight, as I have read on here, that is the way to go. So I replaced the pegs, went to a 70 tooth spur (my LHS only had this one in stock), and it tore it up again. Stock it comes with 6 pegs installed. If I go to 12 would that help? I also read on here that the Robinson Racing clutch isn't worth it. Is that right? Any ideas on this clutch issue?
Those are my questions at this point. Thanks guys!
About the bulkheads...if you're breaking THAT many, you need to learn how to drive better. The bulkheads are a common breakage point because they're weak and they have a ridiculous amount of stress put on them since they hold the whole truck together. That said, I've had my E-Maxx for 4 or 5 years now (can't remember which, it's been that long), and I've broken ONE set of bulkheads. One. Practice driving in a big, open area by setting up some cones or something. Get better at controlling the truck and not hitting things. I'm not a great driver...I'm a lousy racer, but I almost NEVER hit things. Literally 98% of the time I break something a structural part of a truck, it's because I turf a landing from big air (how I broke the one set). I have NEVER broken a set of bulkheads because I hit something. I've never even broken an a-arm on my E-Maxx, because I don't hit things. Practice your driving and get to the point where you don't hit things. If the area you drive your truck is full of obstacles like parked cars and curbs and trees and such, find somewhere else to drive. If you can't do that, lock the truck in first gear. If the area is so small that hitting things is unavoidable, you shouldn't be needing second gear. The truck will have more power in first, and it will run longer, meaning you get more practice time, and since the truck tops out at like 15 mph in first, it should easily be slow enough to control, even for the most difficult of obstacle-ridden places. Also, the Maxx isn't extraordinarily strong, but it should shrug off almost any hit at only 15 mph.

If you're breaking bulkheads from jumping a lot and landing badly, either do smaller jumps until you're better at controlling the truck in the air, or move your jumps to sofer surfaces (anything is softer than pavement, even hardpacked dirt). Grass is ideal for two reasons. One is that it slows your truck down, meaning you can't get as high, meaning you don't hit as hard if you land badly, and two is that even if you do land badly, the grass acts like a cushion of sorts, helping to keep the truck in one piece so you can keep on trying the same jump a billion times until you're confident that you can get it right more often than not (everyone makes mistakes here and there).

Anyways...as I said earlier, the stock bulks are a common breakage point because they're asked to do so much. Aluminum bulkheads are a very wise upgrade. As for the person who said "if you go with just one component in metal, you better do the whole thing," smack him upside the head with a trout. That's completely and utterly riduculous. The best built Maxx IMO would have aluminum bulkheads, aluminum diff cases (because the stock ones flex, allowing the ring and pinion to skip over each other and strip one another), aluminum chassis braces, and the entire RPM catalog for Maxxes. Actually...there is one exception to that. I'd substitute some aluminum bulkhead braces for the RPM ones. No use in having ultra strong bulkheads if everything they're bolted to flexes like a wet noodle. Whatever you do, NEVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES put aluminum a-arms on your truck.

Anyways...I think that's covered....

The slipper...well....pretty tight isn't tight enough. Lock it down. Seriously. Lock it down. To be honest, that's not the best position for it performance wise. The problem is that you can set it at the "ideal" position, but it won't stay there. If you lock it down, it stays locked down. Unless you want to literally readjust the slipper every 5 minutes, lock it down. There is a disclaimer to that though. Locking down the slipper means you have NO give in your drivetrain. This means you have to make sure that your driving is how it should be. You should NEVER land a jump on throttle, but with the slipper locked down, if you do, you'll know you did. You'll either strip the spur gear, blow a diff, or pretzel a slider. The good side of this is that you learn very, very quickly about what you should and should not do with the throttle. If you do something wrong, you'll break something. If you do it right, you won't. Just remember, if there's ever a question of how much throttle you should be using, nine times out of ten you should be using less.

Anyways...I hope this helps a bit. If you have any other questions about anything, please, feel free to ask and we'll do our best to help you. Hopefully your E-Maxx experience can continue to get better. :)

[Chachi_RC]

Thanks metalry101! I appreciate the info. I am not that bad of a driver, and don't hit things that much at all. It may be just from occasional roll overs, or when I do land a bad jump. Two have been from messing around a our local skate park, which I knew the risk there. I do need driving work with out a doubt though. I am also wondering if the fact that I broke a couple of rear body posts early on, and then went to a Megatech aluminum set for it. Now that I think of it, my bulk breaks may have all happened to that. What is your thoughts on alum body post versus the plastic? It sure would be easier to replace body post rather than those bulks!
For the clutch, I think you may be right also on the clutch getting loose as I drive. I heard someone say they replaced the spring with some washers. When you say "lock it down", what do you mean by that. Just tighten it really good, or use lock tight or something like that? It has a lock nut, but those don't seem to hold true to their name.
Thanks so much for the info. I really do appreciate it. This is the coolest place I have found any info on my Maxx! Thanks again Metalry101!

[rc addict]

why not just leave the slipper at stock position out of the factory when you got it new? ive kept my slipper tightness the same and nothings ever happened

[Chachi_RC]

Yeah, but are you using 7 cell batts?

[guver]

whats the most weight you think an emaxx could pull?

an E-maxx theoretically can pull an unlimited number of pounds if geared and had the proper traction and the wieght had no friction, but realistically a stock one may pull a couple hundred pounds or way more if on wheels, but if dragging on ground like a sled I would guess less than 50 pounds.
very difficult question.

[rc addict]

yeah im using two 7 cell gp3300 packs from pro-match

[rc addict]

ive heard of an e-maxx pulling a person in a radioflyer wagon, that would be so awesome to pull yourself while controlling the e-maxx, like being in radio control car, bt you might want some drivetrain upgrades first, i wonder what kind of damage that would do to the truck...

[metalry101]

What I mean by locking the slipper down is just tighten it down real well. No need for locktite.

As for the body posts, I prefer plastic. I don't run aluminum shock towers myself, but I can see why they'd be useful. I think leaving the body posts plastic is much like leaving the bumper mounts plastic. If you leave some give in there (the stock body mounts aren't made out of the same plastic as the rest of the truck, they're flexible), it will help reduce the strain place on other parts. I don't care for aluminum body posts for two reasons. I don't need them because I mount my body very, very low. Seriously, I put the body mounts in the lowest position possible. I prefer the way the truck looks when setup this way, and I also think it helps to protect the shock towers. Since the body is right on top of them rather than an inch or two above them, any high directed to the body goes directly to the shock tower with that amount of force rather than being multiplied by the extra leverage that the extended posts would provide. That's just a personal thing though...the second reason is that if you're going to mount the body a bit higher, you want the posts to flex and break before the shock towers and/or the bulkheads. Plastic bulkheads and shock towers will break before an aluminum body mount will bend most likely. If you do hit hard enough to bend the aluminum posts, it's almost certain that you'll be breaking the plastic stuff that they're attached to.

As for pulling yourself in a wagon behind your E-Maxx. That's not only hard on your drivetrain. In fact, that'd be the least of my worries to be honest. If it's too hard on your drivetrain, something will just snap. Your electronics on the other hand...they don't snap. If you're pulling that much weight around you'll be pulling a ridiculously high number of amps because the load on the motors will be so great. The ESC gets hotter if you pull more current through it. Batteries get hotter when you increase the current drain. Motors get hottor and eventually burn up the windings if you throw too many amps at them. Honestly, I'm not into pulling so I have absolutely no idea how much an E-Maxx could pull. I would imagine it'd be quite a lot...but I wouldn't suggest doing it, as it's very, very hard on every component on your truck.

[rc addict]

yeah i figured it could be very hard on your electronics, and its definitely not a good idea. I think a good idea however would be to settle for rpm shock towers and body mounts. i really like rpm stuff because they are lighter than aluminum, but can flex and return to normal position, and at the same time are stronger than stock traxxas plastic. if you combine the bulkhead braces, a arms, shock towers and possibly aluminum bulks, your e-maxx will be far more durable than before....

[Chachi_RC]

That makes sense to keep the body low to help with the strength of the body posts and shock tower. I just got done with a HPI '73 Ford Bronco body. Used XXX Manin Picture Glue and made an OSU Beavers Football truck. Looks to cool to bash, but can't do that! I may try aluminum bulks someday, but I think I'll go back to the plastic body post instead. Oh well, looks sure aren't everything. Any one seen a full length skid plate for the EMaxx? I did run my truck today with a new stock slipper set up, but with the 12 pegs instead of the 6 it comes stock with, and had it all the way tight. Using those cheapbatterypacks.com 7 cell Sanyo 2400s, it was kicking arse! Thanks again for all the good info !!!!

[TitansGT4]

How much of a difference would I notice if I ran 14 cells instead of 12 on my new E?

[metalry101]

That makes sense to keep the body low to help with the strength of the body posts and shock tower. I just got done with a HPI '73 Ford Bronco body. Used XXX Manin Picture Glue and made an OSU Beavers Football truck. Looks to cool to bash, but can't do that! I may try aluminum bulks someday, but I think I'll go back to the plastic body post instead. Oh well, looks sure aren't everything. Any one seen a full length skid plate for the EMaxx? I did run my truck today with a new stock slipper set up, but with the 12 pegs instead of the 6 it comes stock with, and had it all the way tight. Using those cheapbatterypacks.com 7 cell Sanyo 2400s, it was kicking arse! Thanks again for all the good info !!!!
Oregon eh? You live there? I only ask because my bro is currently going to school at George Fox University.

Anyways, glad you got your truck running strong. :)

How much of a difference would I notice if I ran 14 cells instead of 12 on my new E?
Night and day. Seriously, a stock E does like 23 mph, maybe 25 with really good batteries. On 14 cells, it'll do 30 w/o breaking a sweat.

[TitansGT4]

I don't have to worry about burning up the EVX or anything though do I?

[metalry101]

Not any more so than you do on 12 cells. As long as you're running the stock motors, the EVX should handle 14 cells just fine. The thing you have to worry about the most with an EVX is water. That fries more EVX's than everything else combined.

[flipster]

Thanks metalry101! I appreciate the info. I am not that bad of a driver, and don't hit things that much at all. It may be just from occasional roll overs, or when I do land a bad jump.
<snip>
broke a couple of rear body posts early on, and then went to a Megatech aluminum set for it. Now that I think of it, my bulk breaks may have all happened to that. What is your thoughts on alum body post versus the plastic? It sure would be easier to replace body post rather than those bulks!
<snip>

I used to have aluminum towers and body posts and every time I would land a bad jump (typically on the top of the tailgate) it would snap my rear bulks. I've even had one time that a good landing on the rear tires snapped the rear bulks (very strange). Ultimately, I upgraded to rear AL bulks (integy) and rpm shock towers/body mounts and that combo seems to work pretty well. With the AL frame rails, rpm bulk protectors, rpm arms my truck is nearly indestructible, unfortunately all that weight really slows it down.

Some day I think I'm going to get a new E and as soon as I snap the rear posts just put some velcro on the body and mount it that way.

Phil

[rc addict]

if i switch to kyosho magnetic mayhem motors and i have 14 matched gp3300's , will i fry the esc almost instantly? or can it run well for about 5 min? i wanna make it track ready but non brushless. i can get a fresh pair of magnetic mayhems for 45 bucks, are they very good?

[guver]

14 cells is too much for the magmayhem, I think about 10 is max, maybe 12.

evx will be ok though.

[rc addict]

oh the mag mayhems are fast?

[rc addict]

oh yeah and another thing!!! i cant remove the friggin shocks from the tower from the front that face the titans!!!!! my screw driver is too long to unscrew the screws mounting the shocks to the back part of the towers...what can i do? what will work????

[tadium54]

ratchet screwdriver with an angled neck. that should work

[rc addict]

got a socket wrench does miracles aahhhh

[Chachi_RC]

That is one thing I notice, is that to get to some of the screws, to remove certain parts, you have to take the whole thing apart. That is one thing about the design that may be lacking, is the ease of wrenching on some areas, the layout isn't very good. I got a rachet screwdriver, but sucks. I need one of those angle ones you mentioned. People always complain about RTR trucks, and the fact you don't know them very well 'cause you didn't build them, is bull. I've taken my Maxx apart enough to know it inside and out....I think.

Metalry....yeah, George Fox is up by Portland, which is about 75 miles north of where I'm at. I see you are a hiker, fisherman, and mt biker huh? Oregon is killer for that stuff! I'm sure Ut. is too though. Never been, but heard its cool. Thanks again for the help man!

[rc addict]

i agree its hard to take apart in some places. also, i just installed a 645 mg servo in my maxx and im wondering what use i can make of my 2055 servo...keep it as a spare i guess? but can i put it as the shifting servo, and will that make it any better?

[rc addict]

also is it wise to put any wd 40 in places on the maxx that could help out smoothness or prevent damage? if so, where? im about to take my maxx to a track down the street

[metalry101]

No, don't use WD-40 on your Maxx. If you do, whatever you spray will be smooth and everything for as long as it takes you to start driving the truck. As soon as you do, and you kick up a little dust, everything you sprayed with WD-40 will be much, much worse than it was before because WD-40 attracts dirt like Usher attracts women.

As for the 2055, I'd just leave it laying around. You might need it for another project or vehicle later or something. Don't bother using it as a shifting servo. It'd probably be worse. I think the 2018 and 2055 are the same servo with a little different gearing. If the 2055 is the torquier version then that means it has more gear reduction, which should make it slower. You want speed, not torque for the shifting servo.

Chachi_RC~
Not a problem man. Ya, I like most anything outdoors. Backpacking, hiking, occassional fishing, four wheeling, etc. Utah is one of the best places in the world for it. We've got great mountains up north and red rock in the south. It rocks.

[pedeman]

"red rocks in the south. it rocks"

nice. lol.

yeah another thing with the WD-40 is that if it gets on the turnbuckles and into the ball joint it'll just pop off like its loose and you wont be able to keep it on...

[Rtsbasic]

Would the EVX handle the stock motors with 16 cells? I have some matched 8 cell packs kicking around, and am seriously thinking of buying a Maxx but if I'm going to burn the ESC up with 16 cells it'll have to wait (I think the motors will hold up because I'll be running more gear reduction than normal, so its still only 30mph but more runtime/torque).

[guver]

The evx will just barely handle 16 cells, but the stock motors will not. My e-maxx is 17 cells and 27 turn motors in parallel. I sometimes use 16 turn motrs in series. Either way the evx is max of about 23 volts.

[Rtsbasic]

So it'd work if I picked up some higher wind motors? Do you know where I could get some pretty cheap?

Cheers mate.

[rc addict]

i wonder.. could you use two offroad epic shock motors to power an emaxx? what about a 19 turn edition?

[rc addict]

oh yeah and another question, i set the suspension so that my emaxx is as low as possible, basically both shock ends on the outside of the tower...do you recommend this? i know it lowers the cg but my truck kept skidding out on the turn from the straight where it normally wouldnt, carrying too much speed with too taught a spring tension i think...should i soften up the rear shocks to allow it to grip more? and can i keep the front relatively stiff...as of now i took off the rear shock spacers, and put the smallest spacers on the front, but the track closed up shop before i could test it...what would you recomend for a small track meant for buggies and 1/10th trucks, with small jumps and sharp turns? i need to get my maxx to stop skidding out, but prevent roll overs because of the shocks being too loose...maybe you can recomend different tensions for a set of shocks on a corner? ...lemme know

[guver]

540 motors are usually to small for a heavy e-maxx and may over heat quickly.

I use the 27 turn motors by kyosho, but I can't seem to find any kyosho parts right now.

[rc addict]

any word on my suspension situation?

[rc addict]

Thank you guys for the wonderful suspension help

[rc addict]

....called for a rebuild

[rc addict]

....

[rc addict]

oh and what makes me a senior member, im not even close to age 30

[pedeman]

haha its over 500 posts i think...

no problem for the suspension help, looks like you got it all dialed in

[rc addict]

hahahaha i know man, good thing my new parts from dynamite came in today haha i was so lucky, aluminum bulkheads, a new set of swaybars, and some dynamite cvds which arent bad, got em for about 1/3 the cost and now shes all fixed up....now those red chassis braces mightve contributed to that crash, cause its so stiff now, but i think i need to loosen my suspension one knotch and put it at second to farthest out...lesson learned

[rc addict]

oh and after upgrading the bulks to aluminum, adding steel cv shafts, and aluminum chassis braces...im done with aluminum...not im gonna remove my front bumper for some weight, and try and shave off a couple other things...idk what else i can shave...maybe take off the front bumper...and then to add some rpm arms and what not

[guver]

My E just looked like that a day ago, I just got it all fixed back up.

bent shock, ripped skidplat,2 broken arms, 2 broken bulkheads, bent screws, ect. my chassis was ok. I think if I wentr to li-po I would save some breakage because of the lower weight.

[TitansGT4]

you can use the gorillamaxx battery straps on the stock chassis?

[rc addict]

oh yeah they bolt right on

[rc addict]

and they're soo much better than the stock plate ones, you can adjust it nice and tight and it wont move a millimeter. after the crash btw i installed some deans plugs lol i wonder if that will make my maxx any faster...let me know if it will

[tadium54]

It will decrease the resistace, giving a negligible speed increase, but they will keep everything alot cooler and no more melted plugs!

[rc addict]

well cooler means longer and better performance so im ok with that

[rc addict]

check out the fix, and the new clean set up :D

[rc addict]

....

[metalry101]

Here's a quick picture of my Maxx. I don't even bother driving it any more...but once I get brushless again I will...

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/5151/maxx55yn.jpg

[Maxx42]

Here's a quick picture of my Maxx. I don't even bother driving it any more...but once I get brushless again I will...



I noticed that you have only one shock per wheel. What kind are they? I've heard of this one guy that put LST shocks on his maxx (how did they ever fit?). I'm just curious on how they perform. Do you use it for crawling? onroad? jumping? I'd rather use one per wheel myself but never did the research on a getting a good set of performance shocks.

[metalry101]

I normally run two per wheel, but I robbed 4 of the shocks for this vehicle.

http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/2163/crawler57wb.jpg

As for the terrain, I drive everywhere. Mostly I rally around in the dirt and such, and I do jump my trucks a bit. I don't crawl it though, I have ^^^ for crawling. :)

I actually haven't driven my E-Maxx in months...it's too slow compared to my other monsters (LST, MGT, Mad Force, E-Zilla) to be any fun. I need some new batteries and a brushless setup, and then I'll be taking it out all the time. I don't normally run it with four shocks, but I think I might try it. The springs I have on there are definately stout enough for me to only run four shocks, but the dampening isn't there. With that stiff of a spring I'll probably need 70 weight oil or more to slow the suspension down.

Oh...almost forgot, they're Integy MSR4's.

[rc addict]

where did you et those kyosho 550's? are they any better than the titans, and are they faster? if you know where you got em hook me up with a link, im lookin for some hotter motors than the titans to speed it up just a little...i wanna push it past around 29-30 which im already goin around

[rc addict]

my friend and I were messin around with it and he got in his car so we could find out if it if the speed was accurate, i told him to go about 30 and i was able to keep up with him, which is a good sign...now if only rc cars could outgun real ones...thad be interesting, but uncontrollable and dangerous :) both things i like

[rc addict]

how and where do you acess the slipper clutch?? i need to retighten it, can anyone take a pic of the screw hole with whitch you adjust it with? or describe in full detail...is it the screw thats on the outside sticking out in the middle?

[tadium54]

theres a runer gromet/covering for it. take it off and tighten it. or if you want to, take the entire gear cover off

[Chachi_RC]

Yeah, ever since some of the advie from you guys, I run my all the way tight. It works great! I can rip wheelies which is cool, but I am careful to let off the throttle when landing a jump as to no tear the spur or anything further. The rubber gromet is right in front of the speed control. Use your tire wrench (small end) and tighten it. I didn't run it tight until I got the 7 cell batts, which supply so much juice that I was tearing up clutches left and right. I have been so stoked with these batteries, and they were such a good price. Turns out the place I ordered from, is right here in Oregon. How cool! I am wantting to post a pic on here just to show off my Maxx. How do you do that?

[rc addict]

i think i tightened it, but when i tighten it, the motors just turn and it doesnt tighten, and then when i hold the wheels in place so that doesnt happen, when i tighten it, somehow the screw like springs back into place, i think its that spring behind it, what should i do?