E-Maxx Forum v2.0 [Archive] - Page 9

Maxx42

10-01-2005, 09:28 AM

I normally run two per wheel, but I robbed 4 of the shocks for this vehicle.

I actually haven't driven my E-Maxx in months...it's too slow compared to my other monsters (LST, MGT, Mad Force, E-Zilla) to be any fun. I need some new batteries and a brushless setup, and then I'll be taking it out all the time. I don't normally run it with four shocks, but I think I might try it. The springs I have on there are definately stout enough for me to only run four shocks, but the dampening isn't there. With that stiff of a spring I'll probably need 70 weight oil or more to slow the suspension down.

Oh...almost forgot, they're Integy MSR4's.

Nice setup on both trucks. To improve dampening, you can also try to use a plate with smaller holes inside the shock body. That will add much more resistance to the flow of oil.
I just got a second brushless setup for my second maxx. I have a 9L for the first one and it performs pretty well, but for the second, I just got a 7XL. Wow is all I have to say about the difference in power.

rc addict

10-01-2005, 10:18 AM

uh yeah anybody hav the answer to my q...
also metalry where did you get those kyosho 550's? are they better than the titans? please gimme a link or somthing

metalry101

10-01-2005, 11:32 AM

They're probably not available right now. They came with the Twin Force. Great Planes (Towerhobbies is their retail division) is who your LHS could get them from, but now you'd have to get them from Kyosho or HRP. See if your LHS can order them, or call Kyosho America and order them direct. I dunno if they're any faster than the Titans, but they look cool and work well, so I figured I'd try them. They're definately not any slower...but I don't know if they're faster really.

pedeman

10-01-2005, 06:36 PM

slippery indoors + jump + e-maxx=left motor catches fire...

it was kinda funny, actually... heres what happend:

landed a "bit" hard on the left side, thinking nothing of it...

start to see a nice size ploom of smoke, so i just stop really quickly...

the little fan type thing on the inside of the motor caught fire :eek:

it still runs though, and i smells like butt :D

moral of the story: white, stinky smoke isint very good for your e-maxx :rolleyes:

Maxx42

10-01-2005, 09:44 PM

i think i tightened it, but when i tighten it, the motors just turn and it doesnt tighten, and then when i hold the wheels in place so that doesnt happen, when i tighten it, somehow the screw like springs back into place, i think its that spring behind it, what should i do?

Take off the cover plate that protects the pinions and spur, and hold the spur gear back with one hand so it doesn't move while tightening down the slipper clutch nut with your other hand. You get that "springing back" effect when twisting it from the rotational elasticity of the metal (or plastic if they are still stock) axles throughout the drivetrain. It is more work to take off the cover (only 4 screws but I even removed the bottom 2 as they aren't necessary), but by doing so, you eliminate that unnecessary strain on the drivetrain caused by your wrench and you can also get a better feel for how tight your slipper is. I hope this helps.

badboy2

10-01-2005, 09:53 PM

will the monster motors works on stock esc ?

rc addict

10-02-2005, 02:38 AM

Maxx 42 that did help, thanks.

Maxx42

10-02-2005, 08:42 AM

Maxx 42 that did help, thanks.

No problem.

metalry101

10-02-2005, 01:07 PM

will the monster motors works on stock esc ?
Yes, as long as they're not the 17 turn "Wild" versions. The EVX is rated for dual 19 turns. However, it is only rated for 14 cells on the stock motors. If you run the Trinity motors, you're limited to 12 cells. Personally, I HIGHLY suggest the stock motors with 14 quality cells over the Trinity motors. They last longer, they're faster, and it's cheaper. The only motor upgrade worth doing on an E-Maxx is BL. If you can't afford that, run 14 cells (the best you can afford, GP3700's are the best on the market right now, but any name brand cell will blow the doors off of the generic cheap stuff).

Mild MAXX

10-02-2005, 01:45 PM

Yes, as long as they're not the 17 turn "Wild" versions. The EVX is rated for dual 19 turns. However, it is only rated for 14 cells on the stock motors. If you run the Trinity motors, you're limited to 12 cells. Personally, I HIGHLY suggest the stock motors with 14 quality cells over the Trinity motors. They last longer, they're faster, and it's cheaper. The only motor upgrade worth doing on an E-Maxx is BL. If you can't afford that, run 14 cells (the best you can afford, GP3700's are the best on the market right now, but any name brand cell will blow the doors off of the generic cheap stuff).

Thats true about the motors and i think the evx is realy only able to handle the tittins. brushless is the only realiable motor mod for the emaxx.

pedeman

10-02-2005, 08:39 PM

im lookin for a titan... anyone got one/two sitting around, lonley?

rc addict

10-03-2005, 05:41 PM

is there an upgradable esc option that can handle the trinity 17t motors and 14 cells persay if we dont wanna go brushless? not that we wouldnt but jw

rc addict

10-03-2005, 05:46 PM

yeah im happy that my deans connectors broke off today...god knows how they were extremely strong joints with extra soldering flux... i dont think overheating was the problem because it woudlve had to been at least 500 degrees and its fall right now...

Maxx42

10-03-2005, 05:52 PM

is there an upgradable esc option that can handle the trinity 17t motors and 14 cells persay if we dont wanna go brushless? not that we wouldnt but jw

Novak makes an esc that handles up to 14 cells and 2 x 550 sized motors down to 12 turns. IMO after you consider the costs of the 2 x 17 turn motors and the price of the esc, for very little more money you can have a brushless system (take your pick of feigao motors with a warrior 9920 controller).

tadium54

10-03-2005, 07:31 PM

metalry- how do the kyoshos compare to the titans and how are the batteries held down? with tape?

metalry101

10-03-2005, 07:52 PM

metalry- how do the kyoshos compare to the titans and how are the batteries held down? with tape?
Velcro. I have it on the chassis and the bottom of the batteries. The straps are velcro as well. It works great. It looks like crap, but that's why I run a body.

Oh...and the Kyosho motors...I dunno. I think they're about the same, maybe a little faster. I couldn't really tell you.

rc addict

10-04-2005, 12:04 AM

not to mention they look a little cooler lol

TitansGT4

10-04-2005, 10:19 PM

Would the Novak Brushless system tear up the drivetrain in an Emaxx though?

rc addict

10-04-2005, 10:41 PM

TitansGT4

10-04-2005, 10:55 PM

yes, without upgrades, at the minimum youll want to have center cvds, a metal idler gear set, and steel diff gears with aluminum diff cups since they expand. you might possibly want to add the robinson racing slipper clutch, or cvds all around

Short on cash, so Ill just stick with the Titans on 16.8 volts :D

Mild MAXX

10-05-2005, 07:38 AM

yes, without upgrades, at the minimum youll want to have center cvds, a metal idler gear set, and steel diff gears with aluminum diff cups since they expand. you might possibly want to add the robinson racing slipper clutch, or cvds all around

If your nice (ha ha ha ha) to your truck you can get by with out and just upgrade as you can or it brakes witch ever happens frist.

cheerwhiner

10-05-2005, 07:58 AM

well i might be selling the emaxx soon. I just don't drive it. Of course if i sell it there will be a need for it. Sigh. I guess I can put a high price on it and if it sells then thats cool. I won't lowball it :D made that mistake in the past with other cars.

Chachi_RC

10-05-2005, 10:39 PM

Thanks for the info on posting a pic! I'll do that soon. So....my plan for the winter (it rains quite a bit here!) is to break down my E, and give it a complete clean and lube. I plan on adding some brand of aluminum bulkheads, hex screw conversion, some new wheels and tires, and soemtype of new shocks. So I go out tonight to drive it one of the last times prior to the tear down, and as I am running my 7 cell batts, something goes wrong. It is slowing way down when I am off throttle, so I drive it back over to me. I then notice a puff of smoke from under my body, so i stop instantly. I get the lid off, and one of my Titans is smoking! The batt connector is hot, and so I turn it all off, and unplug the batts. The one Titan that was smokin', looks like the fan blade piece is off and not turning with the shaft (I don't know what that part is called). I am hoping it is just a motor, and that I didn't fry my EVX, or hurt one of my good batts. Have you guys ever heard of this? Well, I guess I start into my re-work now instead of later! Oh well!

Chachi_RC

10-05-2005, 10:42 PM

Actually, I should have gone back and read pedeman's message! Sounds like the same thing happened! I can tell our problems were similar with the "ass" smell. Mine smells just like that. Well, I mean I would IMAGINE that ass smells like that, 'cause I have never really smelled ass.

pedeman

10-06-2005, 06:28 AM

hahaha yeah thats what it smelled like!

Chachi_RC

10-06-2005, 08:43 PM

I think what happened with mine, was that the fan piece broke loose, jammed up the motor, and then as I drove it with it jammed, it started to fry the batt and wires. I am just hoping the EVX is ok, and my new 7 cell batteries. I plugged in some other 6 cells that I have, and the EVX was woking ok then, but that motor is toast I think. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to order a new one, or two. Might as well order two, and have the one as a spare. Fun fun fun! Anyone have any opinions on Integy bulkheads, or Great Assmebly bulkheads?

rc addict

10-07-2005, 10:38 PM

is it alright if the stock emaxx wheels and tires wobble when i run it in the air

Mild MAXX

10-08-2005, 12:23 AM

is it alright if the stock emaxx wheels and tires wobble when i run it in the air
mine dose it to i guess I didn'tpay attention to the wobble

Chachi_RC

10-08-2005, 03:11 AM

Yeah, mine do too. I think they are just so big, they do that a bit. Plus, I've had mine for about a year with stock wheels and tires, and they are needing replaced. I going to try the Revo wheel and tire combo. They look cool, and I can get them cheaper than other aftermarket wheels/tires. Still got to replace my smoked motor too. Here it is with my new body on it. It's amazing how many people get fooled when I show them this picture. Basically my aftermarket parts consist of a MegaTech Rear aluminum body post, many stock bulkheads (10-12), RPM Wear Plates, and then my cheapbatterypacks.com 7 cell Sanyo 2600 Emaxx batteries. I plan on doing some type of aluminum bulkheads this winter. Hope you like the pic!

pedeman

10-08-2005, 08:20 AM

nice. haha

Mild MAXX

10-08-2005, 11:40 AM

Cool pic

guver

10-08-2005, 03:50 PM

How are you going to reach the body clips?

TitansGT4

10-08-2005, 09:39 PM

Burned up my first slipper, I guess it loosened up while I was running but it melted a huge hole in the spur gear..so i picked up a new spur, new plates, and a bunch of pegs and spares of each just in case it happens again..i also threadlocked the nut this time

TitansGT4

10-11-2005, 03:54 PM

Went through my 2nd set of rear bulkheads, the tops that connect the shock towers to the bulkheads keep breaking off (I do beat on the truck pretty hard though)...I was thinking of getting some ACNCM aluminum bulkheads, but I don't want to slow the truck down too much and I know if you change something to aluminum then you're gonna break something else..but at $8 a pop the bulks would probably pay for themselves, anyone else got any suggestions?

Chachi_RC

10-11-2005, 08:49 PM

I actually have been having the same issues you speak about.....many, many broken bulkheads. Plus, they are a pain to replace! I just purchased soem Integy Type 2 front and rear bulkheads off ebay. For front, rear and s&h, I payed $57. As you said, after I have replaced about 10 sets of bulks now, I have paid for the aluminum bulks plus. Now, the trial will be seeing how they hold up themselves. I am going to stick with the plastic shock towers, and bumper mounts for some give. I have heard mixed reviews on Integy, but I thought I would try them. For the $57 total, it doesn't hurt as bad the $75 for front or rears with some other brands. Plus the Type 2s seem much better designed. I'll let you know.

pedeman

10-11-2005, 09:23 PM

chachi_rc-the "insider"

sorry, couldnt help myself. i was looking at those bulks, also. let us know how they work out for yah.

metalry101

10-11-2005, 11:49 PM

I run Integy bulkheads myself. I think they're type 2's, but I don't remember to be honest. Integy stuff is cheap, and the aluminum isn't exactly the greatest, but for the price it's alright. As long as you don't beat on your truck too hard, they should hold up just fine. I haven't had any problems with mine, but then again, it is rather hard to have a problem with a part on a parked truck.

As for whether or not to run aluminum bulkheads...well...yes, you need them. I suggest them over anything other mod for a Maxx for a few reasons. One, they hold the truck together, and the plastic just doesn't cut it. Two, as chachi_rc said, they are a PITA to replace. Three, strong bulkheads make the thing they're bolted to (like shock towers and a-arms) break, which are easy to replace. One thing I highly suggest with aluminum bulkheads however is titanium hingepins. If you smack a rock and bend a steel hingepin in the process of breaking an arm, you're going to have a helluva time trying to get it out of the aluminum bulkhead.

rc addict

10-12-2005, 09:31 PM

i agree, but people seem to upgrade one aluminum part, and as a result, other parts break easier, so they aluminize them too, and before you know it, your truck will be like leadweight

pedeman

10-12-2005, 09:42 PM

shocktowers, body posts, and bumpers are MUCH easier to replace then bulkheads... IMO

Chachi_RC

10-13-2005, 02:39 PM

I agree that I would much rather replace my shock towers, body mounts, right kidney, before doing the bulkhead replace! Especially if you are doing it on a regular basis like I am. Now that I have got better at replacing them, it doesn't take me near as long to do it, but it is still 45-60 minute project. That is time I could spend driving! They Type 2 Integy looks beefed up in the bumper mount area. I was going to use the Traxxas aluminum bulks, but they are not cheap! Over $100 for front and rear change over! Oh well, it is only money right?

Mild MAXX

10-14-2005, 08:42 PM

Chachi RC what are you doing that you are breaking so many bulkheads?
On my three maxxs I have only broken one bulkhead and I think I drive mine hard

rc addict

10-14-2005, 10:28 PM

i wonder if anyone has ever made drift tires for the emaxx...thad be quite fun to see a drifting mt period

pedeman

10-14-2005, 11:13 PM

mildmaxx-6 sets (front/rear) and counting. 39.6 ft house jump gone bad, my "freestyle" ramp (67 degree launch face, approx) etc etc. i wish i only went through one set of bulks...

oh and i got my e-maxx motors today (stock ones). didnt put them in yet, i'm going to do that tomorrow, also a full tranny and outdrive rebuild on my dads BL rusty. ALMOST bought a HV-Maxx system today at the LHS, but i figured that i'd rather do 7 cell battery packs then drop that much on a motor/esc... oh well, we'll see...

ahh guys, there is a motorcycle trials event at the motorcross club my dad and i belong to... i'd like to try some rock climbing... any suggestions? my tire choices are: stock, Bow Ties, and paddle tires (ha-ha). let me know please. it is sunday, pretty much from 9 to 3 PM. i could hopefully slide in a couple packs...

Mild MAXX

10-14-2005, 11:40 PM

tadium54

10-15-2005, 03:56 PM

reverse the stock tires(so the cheveron is on backwards) youll get a bit more grip that way. to temp. lock your diffs, i hear silly putty does a good job.

Chachi_RC

10-15-2005, 05:50 PM

MildMaxx- I have broken 2 sets at the local skatepark, which I understood the risk there. It is concrete, so it is really hard! Some jusst from general bashing, whish isn't that hardcore. No, house jumping (pedeman), but some jumps, like at the bmx track. I did finally figure out how to jump it, by using the throttle and brake to control it. Less wipe outs should mean less broken parts right? For some though, I just have broken a bunch. Mostly at the shock tower mount area. Really, if you look at it, it isn't designed very strong right there. Question...what do you guys use to remove/put in the screws on the shock tower into the bulkhead? Its hard because the part where the bulkhead has the bumper mount into it, gets in the way for a straight shot at those screws. I have even tried a ratched(sp?) screwdriver, but its hard to get leverage with it. What do you use?

pedeman

10-15-2005, 11:05 PM

chachi-i just bend the bumper at the bend point out of my way...

and another thing that i've been messing with is only using 2 screws for the shocktowers... it seems to add more flex, and instead of breaking, it seems to just strip out the holes on a bad crash... (then you can just switch out the bolt pattern).

Mild MAXX

10-16-2005, 12:41 AM

tadium54 I have tried the chevrons in both foward & reverse I have not seen any difference in traction. Ecept in the sand out here and foward seems to work better. The chevrons seem to act like paddles to a degree in that they move the sand out from under the tire and off to the sides so the next tire dosen't hit the loose sand. As far as rocks I don't think it will make any difference witch way you put them on.
Chachi RC your landing / flight control will make a big difference in the carnage. I have jumped one of mine over an arryo / drainage ditch it was about 40 feet across and about 15 feet on both sides. number of jumps compleated befor being run off by cops ( 9 ) number of broken parts ( 0 ) amount of fun lets just say its worth the tresspassing fine we got.
Qiuck tip for stripped out plastic screw holes put some ca glue in the hole then put in the screw instant threads it also works good as thread locker too.
Just so you know the truck used to do the jumps is a ( well at the time ) .26 powered hardcore T-Maxx. With the .21 convertion steal spur rpm a arms stable maxx wheels an xr3 and cvd out drives mg servos thats it all the rest is just stock.

rc addict

10-17-2005, 09:10 PM

ok how exactly do you cut down the paddles on the stock chevrons? ive done a couple paddles so far and im not sure if im doin it right, im using scissors to cut the tread as evenly as possible and then shaving it smooth with a knife...any suggestions as to how deep i should go? i still want offroad traction, but less drag on pavement

Chachi_RC

10-18-2005, 08:59 PM

Hey pedeman, on the difficulty of reaching the screws for the shock tower, I don't think you can bend this part out of the way. I was meaning the bulkhead nub that sticks up, at the point where you screw the bumper mount into the bulkhead. It is for the lower screw on the shock tower into the bulkhead. Oh well, just a small price to pay for fun right? I also ordered a stainless steel hex head screw kit to replace the super soft stock screws. They look nice....for screws that is! I am looking forward to getting those aluminum bulks on it thought! Fresh aluminum is such cool looking stuff!

guver

10-18-2005, 09:13 PM

I have owned e-maxx for around 2 years I guess, and have worn 1 completey out. My current one is almost worn out along with most of the parts from the original one. I have broken many bulkheads and the acnc rear bulks is my only aftermarket that I can think of. other than various motors and batts and esc's.

I have a brand new one just waiting to come out with li-po/nimh power and hi-voltage.

Addstar

10-20-2005, 01:02 PM

im thinking off purchaseiong an e-maxx on wednesday. are they good and worth buying
my friend said there very light is this true :confused:
and are they relible if im going to be doin jumps,flips etc....
thanks 4 readin :D

guver

10-20-2005, 01:43 PM

they are quite heavy, 2 batts, 2 motrs and heavy big tires. Reliability is a 60% in stock form in my opinion. By comparison my EVST is at 70-80%.

Addstar

10-20-2005, 04:18 PM

kk thank you for telling me
but ive already put an offer in on 1 for £110 and theyve taken it
im happy with e-maxx because i also got a t-maxx so i can swap the parts around if something breaks etc..

im thinking of putting 2 trinity charmillon 19 turn motors in it and a novak speed controler so it will fly....im aslo going to get rpm a-arms and acmc bulkheads because ive got them installed on my t-maxx and there very good...

pedeman

10-20-2005, 06:19 PM

i wouldnt reccomend those motors-they burn up with 14.4v, and the esc can only hold 2 20+T motors

Addstar

10-21-2005, 02:22 AM

kk thanks for telling me.
what engines would you reccommend for speed,acceration, and jumping.
im also trying to think what batties to use within a good price range.

Mild MAXX

10-21-2005, 10:08 AM

kk thanks for telling me.
what engines would you reccommend for speed,acceration, and jumping.
im also trying to think what batties to use within a good price range.

Use the highest mamh you can aford but try for at least 3000mamh. the more mamh your batts are rated for the longer the run time.

flipster

10-21-2005, 10:42 AM

3300 batts are a must, but if you convert it to 7 cell that REALLY wakes up an E. I've got 4 sets of batts from promatchracing.com (~$70/pair for 7 cell GP3300s) with the gorrillamaxx straps to hold it in. I can't stand to run with 6 cells now (at least on the E) because it feels so slow.

As a side note, I just got a 2nd E and it's got deans connectors on the motors. Does that really do any better than the bullet connectors for performance, runtime, or heat? It didn't come with an EVX so I'm trying to decide if I should switch the motors back to bullet connectors or switch my spare EVX to deans...

Addstar

10-21-2005, 12:25 PM

3300 batts are a must, but if you convert it to 7 cell that REALLY wakes up an E. I've got 4 sets of batts from promatchracing.com (~$70/pair for 7 cell GP3300s) with the gorrillamaxx straps to hold it in. I can't stand to run with 6 cells now (at least on the E) because it feels so slow.

kool what is the run time with those 7cell battires in?
As a side note, I just got a 2nd E and it's got deans connectors on the motors. Does that really do any better than the bullet connectors for performance, runtime, or heat? It didn't come with an EVX so I'm trying to decide if I should switch the motors back to bullet connectors or switch my spare EVX to deans...
kool what is the run time with those 7cell battires in?????

tadium54

10-21-2005, 04:14 PM

flipster

10-21-2005, 06:15 PM

flipster- they do indeed have less resistance than the bullet connectors. it will give you slightly more runtime, dec temp a little bit and maybe give you a neglible speed increase. id keep them on and switch the evx to deans. it should be worth it over all

Definitely hard to argue with, I'll fire up the iron in just a few min. :) Unfortunately I won't be able to test it out till the monsoon season stops around here (No complaints though, I'm a long ways from the hurricanes)...

Now I just need to figure out how to hold in my 7-cell batts until the new gorillamaxx straps get here. Anybody know of a good temporary holder?

flipster

10-21-2005, 06:26 PM

kool what is the run time with those 7cell battires in?????

When they were new and my maxx was a LOT lighter, I would get 12-15 minutes with 'em. Basically I'd run with a buddy of mine and his T-Maxx, my batts would die and before I had a new set swapped in he'd run out of gas. The E still couldn't outrun the T, but it would hold it's own and occasionally win if we picked a route to run in rather than just across 3 acres. Unfortunately, now I seem to have something else wrong because I can't get over 5 minutes lately. I've swapped EVX's, bought new batts, replaced the titans (admittedly with used eBay ones) and nothing seems to help the runtime.

I may start pulling some of the aluminum off the old E, but I just love it's durability. Right now it's the most reliable thing I have, I've probably put 40-50 charges through since the last time I damaged something (bent aluminum shock tower from a bad landing). When I find a spare $300 in the couch cushions (or when the wife isn't looking) I'd like to get a nice brushless setup. The new E is going to go for the lightweight approach so we'll see how well it holds up.

tadium54

10-21-2005, 07:17 PM

Legend_Car

10-21-2005, 11:48 PM

you could hold the batts in with a zip tie. get a long one idk length and then cut or use hobby knife to pry the lock back a slide the end through

flipster

10-22-2005, 12:33 PM

flip- i doubt they will give a noticeable increase but mathematically, they are better. as for you battery situation. are you running the stock type chassis?if so, get a spare battery bar and solder the cell in an L shape. if you need more help lmk

It's mostly stock, but it does have a half roll cage so if you're talking about the 7-cell setup they list on the traxxas site it would hit the cage. I'm pretty much stuck with the hump style (not to mention that I have several sets of batts already in that config that I use with the old E.

Unfortunately, with the deans connectors, I fired up the iron and started to get everything together then found out that I don't have any spare deans... *sigh* I wish hobbytown was about 40 miles closer.

Legend: Thanks for the zip-tie idea, I can't believe I didn't think of that one. When you're talking about prying the lock back, is that to re-use the zip tie? Do they still work afterwards?

Chachi_RC

10-22-2005, 06:35 PM

You guys should check out cheapbatterypacks.com. They make EMaxx packs in any configuration. They have pre-made 7 cell packs that do allow you to use the stock battery holder. It is a cool company, because you can buy the pre-made stuff with any connector you want, or have them custom make a pack for you for hardly much more money. My 7 cells have been awesome! Plus, no mods to hold them in! Plus, their prices are very reasonable. Check them out, you won't be disappointed!

Legend_Car

10-22-2005, 06:36 PM

I still race my bolink legend and the only way to hold the battery in is a zip tie. you have to either cut it or pry the tab back and save it or go through 3 zip ties a race day. Yes they still work also

rc addict

10-23-2005, 12:39 AM

lets see some pics of peoples emaxxes

pedeman

10-23-2005, 08:56 AM

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL940/3744123/8564059/116014638.jpg

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL940/3744123/8564059/116014651.jpg

http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL940/3744123/8564059/116014657.jpg

i rebuilt the jump in pic #3. it was at about a 60 degree takeoff, i beleive, and now its at about a 80 degree :cool:

Legend_Car

10-23-2005, 11:08 AM

u cleared your house yet with E

pedeman

10-23-2005, 11:11 AM

no, i still didnt get 7 cell batteres and a jump big enough... and no time... hopefully next summer... i want to toss in a BL setup in it and try it then....

Legend_Car

10-23-2005, 12:22 PM

with a brushless u gonna get the HV maxx? do u have to get two of those?

Mild MAXX

10-23-2005, 01:45 PM

with a brushless u gonna get the HV maxx? do u have to get two of those?

Nope just one motor replaces the twin tittens

Legend_Car

10-23-2005, 02:20 PM

sweet hello christmas.. ah what would i need with it. cvds

rc addict

10-24-2005, 10:25 PM

nice pics, lets see some more!

TIC

10-25-2005, 09:45 PM

I'm really an airplane guy, not a MT guy but I got a stock NIB e-maxx about a year ago and had fun with it.. I was considering a Nitro truck when the owner of the LHS told me I had to see his novak brushless E-maxx first.. I went down and he let me drive it.. I was stunned... I bought the kit on the spot for $259?.. Bought a new body, new wheels and tires kimbrough servo saver and hitec 465? servo. Brand new matched IB-3800 six cell packs. I was INTO IT!.. Then on about a 6 foot airtime jump, the truck landed a little "funny" and the entire rear wheels assembly broke away from the frame.. I was bummed.. I took the truck back to the LHS and gave it to the truck guru.. I told him if he would do it, that I'd give him a 500 dollar budget to bling the truck out for me.. He was happy to oblige. After reading through some of these threads, I can't begin to comprehend all the choices out there for mods and disaggreements over what is good and what is trash.. I am also learning that a 500 dollar budget may NOT be enough!..... If YOU had 500 dollars to spend on an E-maxx ( I told him my primary use was bashing ) what would you spend it on?.. I'm just curious to see what I end up with.As of yesterdays phone conversation with him regarding aluminium resevoir shocks/spring kit, I gave him the go ahead to be a little "over budget".. So it looks like I get the trick shocks anyways.. Prolly mip CVD'S all the way around, hardened steel idler gear.. and some aluminium bits here and there but this is MIND BOGLING to a noobie.. I thought us airplane guys had it bad!.Any tips or advice ?.. Sell it and get a REVO?... get out now before it's too late?...

rc addict

10-25-2005, 10:45 PM

haha dont get out, cause its already too late, sooner or later youll realized your hooked, but that can be a good thing...just remember that once you completely trick out the truck, most of the high quality parts that stay usually wont need replacing for a while, so your budget for the hobby should decrease to slipper clutches, tires, and maybe a arms

pedeman

10-25-2005, 10:48 PM

i beleive RPM a-arms, al bulkheads, and batteries, batteries, and batteries should be next. haha. also, if you can figure out a way to make it lighter, go for it. lighter is always better. right?

TIC

10-25-2005, 10:58 PM

thanks guys... I guess it was my rear bulkhead that broke?.. At first look I thought I'd broke the entire frame but then I saw screws and a way to replace the broken part.. It looks like the part that holds the rear diff... is that the rear bulkhead?. It looks like a PITA to replace, hence the handoff to the truck guru.. He also reccommended ditching the stock philips screws for hex heads all the way around.. I gleefully agreed as I've had a heck of a time w/ the stock screws from the get go. Sorry if I am asking some ignorant questions... I AM reading up and learning more and more as best I can.. The fun that truck was with the brushless setup was indescribable.. We have a 1/4mi. gravel driveway and it's just too much fun to blast up and down it at WOT.. One more stupid question; Am I NOT suppossed to be jumping the E-maxx this hard?.. I watched some of the numerous vids on the web of guys jumping insanely high and figured my E-maxx could handle 6 feet of air? Now that I think about it.. the MT'S in the vids were all nitro. I didn't see ONE e-maxx getting "big" air.

Chachi_RC

10-25-2005, 11:12 PM

You can jump it, but it is all about how you land. I learned the hard way.....many broken bulkheads. Then I learned how to jump, and will be putting alum bulks on this winter. As pedeman said, batteries are key. 7 cell. I don't want to put the money into brushless yet, especially after getting those 7 cell batts. They rip! The emaxx is a great truck. Plus, there are so many aftermarket parts for it because most interchange with the Tmaxx. The real only weakness I see is the bulks. I know some people haven't had issues with them, but some have. It is better to be dumping your $ into this than lets say.....crack or another similar addiction. I've cut some of my other hobbies to support this habbit. Plus, I can only talk my wife into letting me go play with my truck, and then play some SOCOM3 on PS2 in the winter. More than that, and I'll be pushing it. You lucky single guys you!!!

I Trust Tyler

10-26-2005, 12:07 AM

flipster

10-26-2005, 09:00 AM

<snippage> novak brushless E-maxx first.. I went down and he let me drive it.. I was stunned... I bought the kit on the spot for $259?.. Bought a new body, new wheels and tires kimbrough servo saver and hitec 465? servo. Brand new matched IB-3800 six cell packs. I was INTO IT!..
<snippage>
If YOU had 500 dollars to spend on an E-maxx ( I told him my primary use was bashing ) what would you spend it on?..
<snippage>

Anything RPM sells, they're really high-quality parts.
Primarily: A-arms, shock towers, front skids, bulkhead braces.

I would consider aluminum rear bulks, but probably not front (extra weight and I've never broken a front one). Shocks are definitely a consideration, you will be breaking the shock caps occasionally, but keep in mind that a replacement pair of caps is something like $3 and it takes a LOT of those to equal a set of AL shocks. Since you got the brushless set up, I think you're on the right track with the CVD's and idler. Just remember, every bit of extra weight you add for strength slows things down. If the Novak setup supports it, go with 7 cell (I like promatchracing.com and their GP3300s with Gorrillamaxx straps, but there are several choices including the traxxas way of making a 7 cell pack and using the stock hold-downs.)

Just remember to keep it fun, I've spent somewhere around $3-4k in the last year on RC stuff (currently 12 vehicles). They're addicting, but they sap a lot of money if you're not careful.

flipster

10-26-2005, 09:01 AM

Does anyone have any good recommendations for a lightweight E? Since I've got the new one I'm looking for ways that I can lower it's weight for increased speed.

rc addict

10-26-2005, 03:15 PM

you can lighten it by getting the single speed transmission from gorilla maxx though you have to modify the shaft so i dnt like that idea, you can get the carbon fiber race chassis from gorilla maxx, if your using the stock chevron tires, shave down the paddles a bit, youd be surprised how much weight comes off and how much grip stays, also if you wanna beef it up and keep it as light, go get some rpm a-arms, also switching to a brushless motor might lighten it cause its one motor, and the esc that it comes with is usually really small unless its the hv maxx system...anything else i recommend is to remove things like the front and rear bumpers, cut down the shock tower body mounting poles a bit, and avoid aluminum

rc addict

10-26-2005, 03:17 PM

does anyone know where the cheapest place to buy an hv-maxx system new would be? besides ebay lol, like any wholesale places or anything, cause i can only find them as low as 269, and once i saw 259 but i dont remember

TIC

10-26-2005, 04:11 PM

I got my HV-maxx system at the LHS which gives 10% discount to club members so it came out around 250 bucks.. It WILL support 7 cell packs but the speed and torque increase on six cell packs was simply amazing. It will wheelie from 10mph in second gear. I had 4 six cell packs of GP-3300's but I like the 2 packs of IB-3800's I bought even better.. (lower IR , better voltage under load and of course more capacity) I ran the 70 tooth spur and 14 tooth pinion.. I LOVED it while it lasted.. The motor and ESC are still fine, just the rear bulkhead is broken.. Thanks for the tips guys and keep em coming, this is all uncharted territory for me.

Chachi_RC

10-26-2005, 09:37 PM

My stock motored Maxx with the 7 cell Sanyo 2600s does a wheelie in 2nd from a stop, or 10 mph! Now I say that with never seeing a live emaxx with a brushless system, and that is why I am waiting on the BL set up. Oh yeah, and as mentioned before, the wife thing. I eventually will go BL but not until the price comes down a bit, which as more systems come out, it should. From what I understand they have been using BL on planes for a while before they came to land RC vehicles. Any 1 heard that? TIC, you are a plane guy, is this correct?

highflier

10-26-2005, 09:45 PM

Tic,
That 10% savings could be spent on a Zagi :) Just kiddin.... but it just goes to show... RC hobbies can be fun reguardless of the vehicle of choice.

Highflier

Oh I am just now starting to get into a e-maxx I plan on going brushless also, But I am goinng to go BK and a 7xl motor. (I think) the thing the scares me is not the bulks and such. It's the drive train. diff's CVD's etc...

rc addict

10-26-2005, 10:34 PM

are sanyo 2600's better than gp3300s or something? ive seen many people mention them that im getting the impression that matched 7 cell sanyos make your emaxx faster than matched 7 cell gp3300's...is this true? and if so, where do you get them? i have a pair of promatch gp3300s now and i havent used em for a little less than a month...i think there gonna lose charging capacity and need replacement soon if i dont start usin em

I Trust Tyler

10-27-2005, 12:04 AM

Does anybody know if the feigao 540c 9l is better than the feigao 540 9l for the e-maxx. it has more kv's

TIC

10-27-2005, 03:16 AM

brushless motors have been around on the airplane scene for a number of years now.. The GOOD motors have NOT come down in price but cheap chinese clone brushless motors are abundant and priced low. They are not as efficient or well made but some hold up just fine. A really good brushless motor for an electric "hotliner" airplane will cost you over 300 dollars and that is WITHOUT the ESC!. . I'm sure when my truck is done being blinged out I'm going to have to try 7 cell packs with the HV-maxx setup, only because I can. I PROBABLY should have tried 7 cell packs with the stock motors before spending the money on brushless but .... oh well, it was an impulse buy.. One pull of the throttle trigger on a demo HV-maxx and I was sold... BTW, as for the zagi joke?... a zagi flying wing is the equivalent of a radio shack monster truck, they are to be avoided.

highflier

10-27-2005, 10:01 AM

Tic,
Good come back :) I just could not resist.
It appears that the brushless in a RC truck is good but for slightly different reasons then in a plane.

The planes we are looking for the most power in a light weight package. The trucks obviously the weight is not quite such a big deal. But the brushless has lots of torque, which is much more important then in the planes. From what I understand it also has much more RPM range then the brushed. I never had a brushed setup that pushed the RPM's in a plane.

And as far as cheap brushless motors. My beleif is that some of the cheap ones are getting fairly good. (some are still crap though) The end result is that if you are not at a competition level the right cheap brushless is a great bargin, that is unless cash is not an issue.

Highflier

rc addict

10-27-2005, 05:54 PM

does anybody know about my sanyo 2600 question?

TIC

10-27-2005, 06:31 PM

If it's the old Sanyo HR-SC 2600.. it was the first NiMH to beat the CP and RC2400 in voltage and capacity but they did not hold up very well .

Chachi_RC

10-27-2005, 11:34 PM

As I have said a few items in this forum, the batteries I have are from cheapbatterypacks.com, and are made for an emaxx. The extra battery is off to one side so you have a right and left pack. They are a cool company because they will build basically any pack you want, with any plug you want, and their prices are great. I have been stoked with my packs (Sanyo 2600 HRSC) and have been using them for about 3 months. So, I don't know how they will hold up in the long run, but so far they are incredible. This company does have others though too, and can build any configuration. I don't work for them either! In case you you were thinking so. I know the BL set would be cool. I saw a vid online that showed a BL emaxx pull nose up to a flat wall, and the guy gunned it, and it literally drove up the wall a couple of feet and then back flipped and landed back on its wheels. It was insane that a 10lb.+ truck could do that! With BL, do you use two batts still?

highflier

10-28-2005, 08:27 AM

With brushless you will need to have batteries that can support a high amp draw. That is how they get the spped and power. You also get longer run times becuase brushless is more effecent then a brushed setup. There is not much of a down side with brushless other then cost.

Highflier
PS. When using brushless it may be that you use 2 packs in series rather then Parallel, This will up the Volts, Drop the amps, and give the same power as if you were in parallel running twice the amps. But all this depends on you motor of choice.

flipster

10-28-2005, 08:49 AM

TIC

10-28-2005, 09:18 AM

With the HV-maxx brushless setup you still run both packs in parralell... The HR-SC 2600'S might be FINE for our trucks but they were NOT so great for high amp electric F5B planes. We're talking 150+ amps and little to no cooling. Problem was they vented like microwave popcorn on the charger

Mild MAXX

10-29-2005, 06:20 PM

Another fun question: If I were to buy one of the ESC's that handle super-low turns, would it work to wire it up to run the e-maxx stock motors in parallel? Does anyone know of an ESC that fits the bill and is generally cheaper than the EVX? Would they handle 16.8V?

Right now both of my E's have good EVX's, but I like to have a spare in case I blow one (which I've done twice somehow, once near snow but the other time just driving)

look at the Novak Super Duty esc it is made to replace the evx and it will take any brushed motor for the e-maxx & handel 7 cell batts with ease.
The Super Duty is right up there in price too at about $150 but it is way better then the evx is & cheeper then a brushless setup.

rotaryoverload

10-31-2005, 12:08 AM

I wouldn't ever run an ESC that's not made for running dual motors in a parallel setup. The ESC isn't made for that. I would only buy an ESC made for running dual motors like the new Novak Super Duty system.

rc addict

10-31-2005, 04:54 PM

whats the fastest emaxx anyones ever heard of...so far ive heard some going 70-75

TIC

10-31-2005, 05:44 PM

BTW folks... www.cheapbatterypacks.com now has 7 cell custom (right and left) IB-3800 packs, soldered and connector of your choice for just over 100 bucks for the pair!... I use these cells in my F5B electric gliders and they are officially "better" than either GP 33 or 3700's (according to Steve Neu's article in quiet flyer mag).. They are less expensive, have lower IR and higher voltage and capacity than the GP cells.. They are also UNDER rated at 3800mah.. Most take over 4,000.... These packs combined with my HV-maxx setup and some new shocks, aluminium bulks, mip CVD'S all the way around and hardened steel idler gear SHOULD make a very nice truck (until I break something else)... Just thought everyone might like to know about the IB-3800's .... Since I'm blinging out the truck, any other worthwhile upgrades would be great to know about.. I'm STILL not all the way through vol 1 and 2 of the e-maxx threads but there is a TON of great info in there.. thanks

I Trust Tyler

10-31-2005, 06:46 PM

www.rc-monster.com they have some awesome products

TIC

10-31-2005, 06:52 PM

Oh man, just what I needed to see.. I'll be calling the guru tomorrow with a LOT of questions! thanks

I Trust Tyler

11-01-2005, 12:23 AM

And i'm a new member that just got my e-maxxx a week ago. so im sure there are a few other secret places.

wishmasstir

11-07-2005, 10:48 AM

flipster

11-08-2005, 07:50 AM

<snippage>
i keep twisting front driveshafts so i'm gonna have to get a set of cvds there too
<snippage>

Just curious, what are you doing that breaks front driveshafts? I may have been extremely lucky so far, but I've still got the original front/rear/center shafts on my first E and it's a year old, xtra heavy, and steadily run with 7-cell batts...

I break the plastic shafts on my nitros with upgraded engines, but not stock...

wishmasstir

11-08-2005, 08:34 AM

just normal driving
i've sheared them off at the joints, on a brand new pair too.
maybe something on the truck is messed up but it runs fine and will flip on its roof off the line no problem.

MAXXdrifter99

11-08-2005, 12:11 PM

Here's my Maxx covered w/ mud!!
woooooo hoooooo lets go muddin' y'all!!! thats a great pic. i luv mud!

tadium54

11-09-2005, 06:48 PM

i just picked up an e-maxx yesterday it has a few things on it like rpm arms, towers, body posts, skidplates, alum. front skid, rear cvds. i keep twisting front driveshafts so i'm gonna have to get a set of cvds there too

is there any other mods i should do for driving it/ or racing it....tips on making it lighter?
also how can i tell if its the wider version???
can someone measure wheel hub to wheel hub with the wheels off so i can see if mine is the wide one

thanks

look at the lower arms where the shocks bolt on. 2=old version 4= new version
thats a good list to start. alum bulks and titanium hingepins should be there too. making it ligher? drop 4wd and remove the 1st gear

wishmasstir

11-09-2005, 10:04 PM

hmm 2 holes but they are rpm too ... u got a measurement for me?

metalry101

11-09-2005, 11:38 PM

hmm 2 holes but they are rpm too ... u got a measurement for me?
It's kinda hard to make measurements while the arms are on the truck, but my Pro-Line arms (which are the same length as the Traxxas and RPM WideMaxx arms) measure about 13.2 centimeters from the hole for the hingepin to the end where the pillow ball screws in.

wishmasstir

11-13-2005, 07:36 PM

i tore apart the emaxx i picked up and cleaned every part on it.
took it out for a run tonight with new plastic front driveshafts and of course i broke them in half again. gotta order cvds asap. should i get mip? or another brand?

http://www.geocities.com/wishmasstir/DSC00510.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/wishmasstir/DSC00511.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/wishmasstir/DSC00513.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/wishmasstir/DSC00514.JPG

tadium54

11-13-2005, 07:58 PM

very nice setup wishmasstir. those are the same mods i plan for mine. check out ebay for rd logics. theyre pretty good from what i hear

pedeman

11-13-2005, 09:11 PM

Hey guys. I broke a couple teeth off of my spur gear, and I was wondering what spur gear I should use. Isint it smaller Spur gear, more top speed? I would like more top end power. I mean, its nice to do wheelies over everything, but I would like to try some of the jumps at my local MX track since we are there for the races anywho. suggestions?

metalry101

11-13-2005, 09:12 PM

The stock spur is a 66T, the only one smaller is a 64T, and it isn't going to make much of a difference. You're going to need bigger pinions if you want more top end.

wishmasstir

11-13-2005, 09:32 PM

hey what rate are the blue springs on my truck? ... are they stiffer?

metalry101

11-13-2005, 10:38 PM

They look like the Trinity blue springs, which are considerably stiffer than stock. They could be someone else's though...and if they are, I have no idea how stiff they are. The easiest way to answer that question is to pull a couple shocks and compare the red and the blue.

wishmasstir

11-14-2005, 08:24 AM

yeah i checked them out and they are stiffer ... i have no idea why the kid only put 4 of them on though

Mild MAXX

11-14-2005, 09:26 AM

yeah i checked them out and they are stiffer ... i have no idea why the kid only put 4 of them on though

The trucks get way too stiff with all 8 springs I tried it all they do is bounce when they land even with heavy shock oil it still bounced run 4 perfict you can even remove the other 4 shocks to lighten the truck abit. :D

Mild MAXX

11-14-2005, 09:32 AM

Just for every one's info alumin. is heavyier then plastic not by much only a copule of grams ( depending on the part ) plus alumin. bends plastic forgives.

wishmasstir

11-14-2005, 11:52 AM

and unless you work at a cnc shop ... aluminum is more expensive too.

TIC

11-14-2005, 07:40 PM

Over 3 weeks now and $897 dollars later I'm still waiting for my E-maxx to be done.. the LHS guy has it and an open checkbook... Latest saga is the Integy resevoir shocks.. He said he put 40 wt. in them and the springs they came with and the truck acted like it had no shocks at all.. Apparantly the truck sagged badly with all the aluminium... progressive springs and 80wt. oil is the next step... Again, I'm not a truck guy and I'm getting all this labor for a case of beer plus the cost of parts.. GREAT DEAL... I'm a little worried that with all the aluminium it's gonna be heavy.. Basically it's Integy everything. mip CVD'S all the way around.. hardened steel idler gears, man I don't even know all the stuff going on the truck . My worry is that it will be so cherry I'll not want to bash it like I used to..

wishmasstir

11-14-2005, 10:36 PM

if anyone has a spare set of cvd's for the old maxx let me know cause i NEED a set asap

tadium54

11-15-2005, 06:11 AM

tic- you should do the work, youll have more fun in knowing what to fix when it breaks(and it will, they always do lol)

TIC

11-15-2005, 08:27 AM

Agreed.... I spend all my hobby time on the airplanes though. The truck is kind of a diversion, albeit a very EXPENSIVE one at this point

wishmasstir

11-18-2005, 09:38 AM

i've been running gp3300 6-cell packs right now and i'm not too thrilled with the speed of the maxx anymore. i'm gonna add another cell to a few of my packs. will the increase be that noticable?

what else is done to these to make them faster on an offroad track??

different motors? is brushless the way to go?

tadium54

11-18-2005, 11:50 AM

brushless is the most obvious, but tires, shock oil and springs, steering servo, body, overall weight of the truck, gearing and actually the transmission itself all play a role in it

wishmasstir

11-18-2005, 12:24 PM

what do you mean the tranny itself?

can you regear them or something? i know about removing first and letting it run in second all the time. which i guess would in turn save some weight too

wishmasstir

11-18-2005, 06:50 PM

OMG!!!

i just took the maxx outside for some drifting ... drifting the maxx was a blast. i put electrical tape around a set of pro-line road rage tires. you can drift like no tomorrow and must try if you have road tires.

without the tape the tires hook up so good i can turn on a dime at full speed and it won't roll over with the suspension soft.

i noticed that with soft suspension the truck will bounce a lot when drifting i was thinking of putting spacers in to stiffen it up but fuel tubing on the shock shaft will take away all of the travel and make it perfect for drifting

Mild MAXX

11-18-2005, 06:59 PM

Try it with a brushless it's like a nitro

wishmasstir

11-18-2005, 07:05 PM

tadium54

11-18-2005, 07:43 PM

traxxas has an few option parts for the tranny that will do the job.but yea, removing 1xt is also the most obvious choice

wishmasstir

11-18-2005, 07:44 PM

do you have to regear it after removing first? second dogs more than first does

tadium54

11-18-2005, 09:01 PM

no, i wouldnt say so. youre removing weight and moving parts, which therefore reduces resistance. I'd say its probably even

wishmasstir

11-19-2005, 03:33 PM

well i was just outside jumping a bank and wow does that thing jump funny. i'll have to get that mastered pretty fast cause i broke one rear bulkhead and the rear skidplate already.

I Trust Tyler

11-19-2005, 10:05 PM

i just got the feigao 7XL and BK 9920 today... crazy crazy top end for a truck(stock gearing and 12 cells, alum. parts and bomb proof chassis). the one motor has just as much torque if not more than the two titans but with more top speed, i noticed that first gear was basically usless now because the initial torque in 2nd gear is just as potent as it is in 1st, im not to sure if i wanna get rid of 1st just yet, i wanna play around with the set-up for a bit.

Maxx42

11-19-2005, 11:20 PM

Hey Tyler, did you beef up your drivetrain for that motor? I hope you did because when you start adding some more cells to that thing look out. I run mine on 16 cells and it is a missile.

tadium54

11-20-2005, 01:27 AM

Tyler- wow that sounds like alot of power. if you wanted to, drop the 1st gear and there will be less rotating mass so even more top speed for ya.

I Trust Tyler

11-20-2005, 01:36 AM

Hey Tyler, did you beef up your drivetrain for that motor? I hope you did because when you start adding some more cells to that thing look out. I run mine on 16 cells and it is a missile.
i only have the stock center driveshafts left to swap out, and maybe the slipper too but i dont know yet, i beat the piss outta it already and nothing happened yet.

Mild MAXX

11-20-2005, 10:24 AM

what kindof brushless is good for the maxx

i saw novak makes a hv-maxx ... is it any good?

whats the best one i can get ... links and prices would help too.

if someone has one they want rid of i have a mini-z s2000 and a duratrax axis buggy w/some ofna hop ups on it i might want to get rid of soon

right now the best brushless set up for the maxx is the Novak H.V.
I put it in one of mine to see and that E Maxx will beat my 1/8 buggy.
that set up is truely unbeatable for the cost vs. performance it is the one to get www.teamnovak.com will get you all the info.

Milenko_76

11-20-2005, 10:28 PM

I love the hv maxx. I've only raced it in one race so far but I came in second place out of 7 nitro trucks ( 2 revos and 5 t maxxs).

I Trust Tyler

11-21-2005, 07:05 PM

Hey Tyler, did you beef up your drivetrain for that motor? I hope you did because when you start adding some more cells to that thing look out. I run mine on 16 cells and it is a missile.
Maxx42 you run 16 cells, does it run hot? and what ESC do you run

guver

11-21-2005, 07:16 PM

Dopes anyone know the max voltage on the HV maxx? also how is the BEC wired in? does it pull off of just one pack like the evx?

Maxx42

11-21-2005, 07:18 PM

Maxx42 you run 16 cells, does it run hot? and what ESC do you run

I run the 7xl with the shultze18.97kw geared 22/66. The controller is always cool no matter how long I run. The motor does get hot, but not too hot to where you can't touch it. I read on that emaxx online forum how one guy uses 18 cells with the same setup (although I don't know what gearing). On 16 cells this setup is just a hair slower than a jato (still out accelerates it though). On 18 cells (considered dangerous by some people), I can't imagine how fast it goes. I use standard size maxx tires on RPM offset rims also.

Legend_Car

11-22-2005, 04:52 PM

can i mount a buggy wing on my e like the revo guys do. If so what would i need

tadium54

11-22-2005, 05:45 PM

proline exteded body posts will work. check out an old rcca issue with the hardcore .21 conversion in the 4x4 column. it will explain in more detail

on an unrelated note, I;d like to hear what everyone says about these hop ups Im planing on:
Torpedo chassis
RPM bulkhead braces
RPM arms
RPM bumpers
RPM shock towers
RPM hubs
RD Logics CVDs
Hardcore titanium hinge pins
Proline titanium turnbuckles
RC Screwz kit(don't worry, I have high quality drivers)
Integy bulkheads(all I can afford right now)
alumunum skids
gorrila maxx type battery holders(ok, its just a long piece of velcro)

any comments or ideas? Im trying to keep the weight down

Legend_Car

11-22-2005, 06:08 PM

a few things, rpm a arms are nice, i have heard that you cant go wrong with mip cvds, If you want to keep weight down i would scratch the aluminum skids The rpm bumpers are sweet too

tadium54

11-22-2005, 06:20 PM

i already have the arms on the list, and the bumpers are currently on the truck. the cvds i got for a great price and they are in great shape so i doubt ill go mip. the only reason i have the aluminum on the list is because the skids i had keep breaking

Legend_Car

11-22-2005, 06:24 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wing-Mount-for-Traxxas-Revo-Direct-Bolt-on-No-mods_W0QQitemZ6014764714QQcategoryZ44028QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Could i get this to work on my e-maxx. could you provide a link to that article or tell me what magazine it is in

tadium54

11-22-2005, 06:36 PM

I don't see how, unless you change the rear shock tower or modify the body heavily

Legend_Car

11-22-2005, 07:01 PM

ah scratch the wing

Maxx42

11-22-2005, 08:31 PM

Instead of the alum skids, I tried the RPM wear plates. They have done the job for me. I still use the original plastic skids and bulks, and that is after going through some hairy crashes on and off the track. The only drawback to them would be the fact that they lower the ride height by about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Also on http://www.rc-monster.com/fastlane.php they have a combo bulkhead / diff case by fastlane if you want to take a look.

tadium54

11-22-2005, 09:56 PM

no deal to the rpm wear plates. only item of rpm i regret buying. didn't prevent any damage at all

sobe164

11-24-2005, 12:29 AM

Has any one ever tryed spray painting the black plastic parts? i am currious cuz i wanna do something diff with my e maxx. i am just currious. i was going to give it a try before i decided to do it. i have an extra pede roller sitting around, n i thought i would go ahead n see what happens. well please get back 2 me n lemme know. if it isnt worth it, then i wont give it a try. alright guys, im out

SOBE

metalry101

11-24-2005, 12:42 AM

no deal to the rpm wear plates. only item of rpm i regret buying. didn't prevent any damage at all
I like the RPM wearplates. They don't prevent the skid from breaking really, but they do protect the bulkheads, even after the stock skid bites the bullet.

Has any one ever tryed spray painting the black plastic parts? i am currious cuz i wanna do something diff with my e maxx. i am just currious. i was going to give it a try before i decided to do it. i have an extra pede roller sitting around, n i thought i would go ahead n see what happens. well please get back 2 me n lemme know. if it isnt worth it, then i wont give it a try. alright guys, im out

SOBE
I've never done it myself, but I've seen people do it. It works alright, but it depends on the part. Doing a-arms and stuff doesn't make a lot of sense since it will just be scraped off. If you use the right paint it can work quite well from what I've seen, but I don't know what paint is the "right" paint.

I Trust Tyler

11-24-2005, 09:10 PM

can anyone tell me if these are worth getting http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=199

Maxx42

11-24-2005, 10:20 PM

can anyone tell me if these are worth getting http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=199

I use them for bashing around with a 7xl setup. They're fine for bashing but the solder that is used on the connections is a low quality and I had to end up resoldering the outside connections where the wire is used to connect the outer cells with the top cells. Also I would highly reccommend getting rid of the stock plugs and putting deans plugs on them. If you're looking for some batteries to race with, they will put you at a disadvantage against anyone using a higher quality cell (the voltage drop per cell under high current drain will be more significant).

TitansGT4

11-24-2005, 11:06 PM

I'm thinking of buying the rcboyz.com Powerstroke combo that includes the 2.5 widemaxx titanium turnbuckles and MIP CVD's along with the shocks, but my question...is it worthwhile if i don't race my truck? I just bash it pretty hard (the body is all torn up and I just fixed my 2nd set of rear bulkheads that broke)..but I'd like it if it handled a little better and if the suspension functioned better and wasn't so worked up by small bumps..I figured the progressive nature of the powerstroke shocks would make a difference

I Trust Tyler

11-25-2005, 01:26 AM

I use them for bashing around with a 7xl setup. They're fine for bashing but the solder that is used on the connections is a low quality and I had to end up resoldering the outside connections where the wire is used to connect the outer cells with the top cells. Also I would highly reccommend getting rid of the stock plugs and putting deans plugs on them. If you're looking for some batteries to race with, they will put you at a disadvantage against anyone using a higher quality cell (the voltage drop per cell under high current drain will be more significant).

i just plan on bashing anyway, but they said they were matched so i figure they're decent, plus super cheap(50bones for twin 8cells). I have deans on everything i have(burnt tamiya plugs from too much amp draw). i just wanna use them for some sick speed from time to time, thanks once again Maxx42.

Maxx42

11-25-2005, 10:58 AM

i just plan on bashing anyway, but they said they were matched so i figure they're decent, plus super cheap(50bones for twin 8cells). I have deans on everything i have(burnt tamiya plugs from too much amp draw). i just wanna use them for some sick speed from time to time, thanks once again Maxx42.

No prob. I've been using my packs for over a year now and they've been good for me. I've talked a buddy into giving them a try in his evader (6 cell 3300's) and he loves them. He claims to get about 40 min of runtime on one pack (stock motor though).

tadium54

11-27-2005, 01:25 AM

still 40 mins for an evader isn't too bad. its more than what most people probably run in one pack

Legend_Car

11-27-2005, 01:30 PM

i know this is probably an on going over asked question, but what would i need to run an hv-maxx. cvds all the way around? i have a robinson slipper what else?

guver

11-27-2005, 01:37 PM

No prob. I've been using my packs for over a year now and they've been good for me. I've talked a buddy into giving them a try in his evader (6 cell 3300's) and he loves them. He claims to get about 40 min of runtime on one pack (stock motor though).

Your freind is averaging 4.4 amps? with a discharge rate of 1.3C ?

highflier

11-27-2005, 02:21 PM

Must be geared super low and he is just putting around like 3 MPH??? LOL

Highflier

Maxx42

11-27-2005, 05:31 PM

Your freind is averaging 4.4 amps? with a discharge rate of 1.3C ?

I'm just telling you what he said to me. He usually runs his evader on his lunch hour with a couple of guys he works with and he said he only uses one pack for the whole time while the other guys have to change a couple of times. That doesn't mean that he's running full throttle the whole time, nor does it mean that he doesn't stop while the other guys are changing their packs. It just means that he is getting very good runtimes out of cheap battery packs. Like I posted before, he uses the stock motor that comes with the buggy. When was the last time you used a stock kit motor with a high capacity pack? It is a 20 turn photon motor, but I would think that it still draws less current than a monster stock or p2k2. I use the same cells with my 7xl setup in my emaxx and I get around 12 minutes of runtime. Does that mean I'm going full out the whole time? Of course not. I last about as long as the nitro guys last on one tank (monster trucks), sometimes less, sometimes more. If i'm running in dirt or on grass I'll get less run time. He's running in an open parking lot in a buggy that weighs only 3.5 pounds fully loaded. I haven't run with him in a while because there is no even ground to run on between an emaxx and an evader. Next time I do (probably won't be for a while), I'll time how long the pack lasts in his buggy.

Legend_Car

11-27-2005, 08:24 PM

well electrical tape and an e-maxx equals sweet drift action. been testing it out in the basement. Going to take it to the street tomorrow.

Legend_Car

11-28-2005, 07:26 PM

the tape drift in the street was awesome. i was sliding all over the place and i had control. awesome.

Legend_Car

12-01-2005, 07:29 PM

new thrill snow and ice drifting. 2inches of snow wow that was fun

guver

12-01-2005, 08:48 PM

The most fun I ever had one year (I was cooped up inside) was when the whole front yard had rained and then frozen solid. I had just got my TD and I had it geared up for high speed and was able to drift like crazy. I could go full out and then slide sideways for over 50 feet. Very fun and slippery. There was no snow on top and it was so cold that it didn't even get wet.

Legend_Car

12-01-2005, 11:35 PM

its always fun when your going full speed down the street and you hit a hidden patch of ice. You dont know were you gonna end up after the powerslide

SerpentKing101

12-03-2005, 08:06 AM

E-Maxx on ice is fun, I'm hpoing for another winter storm like we had a couple years back to do it all again.

Just not enough to kill the power, then I cant charge my batteries...

rc addict

12-05-2005, 07:24 PM

ok i need suggestions for getting my emaxx ready for the snow, this is my second winter ever experiencing snow and the first one i didnt have an emaxx...any ideas to cover it up?

pedeman

12-05-2005, 07:28 PM

use a Shower Cap over the center of the chassis. cover it then with saran wrap. Fool proof, yet excellent to protect from water

metalry101

12-06-2005, 01:01 AM

use a Shower Cap over the center of the chassis. cover it then with saran wrap. Fool proof, yet excellent to protect from water
I don't know about fool proof. There is one HUGE downside to this method. If water can't get through, neither can air, which means the motors, ESC, and batteries get hot, VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY HOT. I've used this method in the past, and it works deliciously well, but it is exceedingly hard on your electronics. The only thing more damaging to your electronics than heat is water, so beware.

tadium54

12-10-2005, 01:41 AM

I agree with metalry. it works well, but I wouldn't recomend you doing it for hours on end or alot without giving it signifigant time to cool down

rc addict

12-11-2005, 01:47 AM

i usually always run my emaxx until the motors are hot to the touch after maybe a second of holding it, so i dont thinik overheating will be a problem...i probably run my emaxx for no more than 10 to 15 minutes at a time between packs

revodude14

12-14-2005, 10:48 PM

http://www.gorillamaxx.com/images/g2006-chr-al-5.jpg I know this is off topoic but here it goes.http://www.gorillamaxx.com/ Has anyone else seen this chassis? I was just wondering if it was for racing (low stance) or for bashing(cell capacity). If I'm correct, it can hold 16 cells, so if this were a project truck, would it work with 16 4200 trinity cells and twin brushless motors? With that powertrain, what would performance be like? After my nitro revo was beaten by an electric revo at my local track, I started to wonder what if... Any comments?

Legend_Car

12-14-2005, 11:07 PM

that would be sweet but 16x2 4200s would be overkill i think. that chassis is rather expensive at 283.99 and then you would have to buy all the tranny and cvds and things to be able to handle 4200s and a dual brushless. sure you can race it. plus you would need a emaxx motor mount and transmisson that has those upgrades i mentioned. i dont know if it would be worth doing, or just get a better nitro engine and tune it properly.

highflier

12-15-2005, 08:27 AM

I would suggest just one good brushless motor. No need to go dual's

And yea. you would need to improve some driveline parts

Highflier

jeepboy109

12-15-2005, 09:11 AM

I would go duals.

Maxx42

12-15-2005, 06:08 PM

Has anyone else seen this chassis? I was just wondering if it was for racing (low stance) or for bashing(cell capacity). If I'm correct, it can hold 16 cells, so if this were a project truck, would it work with 16 4200 trinity cells and twin brushless motors? With that powertrain, what would performance be like? After my nitro revo was beaten by an electric revo at my local track, I started to wonder what if... Any comments?

RC Monster has it for sale for $280 with a set of steel center drive cups and dog bones. They also have an entire kit version including both front and rear Revo suspension assemblies. I'm looking forward to getting this kit when the carbon fiber version becomes available. I grabbed a Revo off ebay just for this project and I gutted my aluminum emaxx to use the tranny and brushless system in it.

Rtsbasic

12-17-2005, 12:14 PM

Looks like a nice chassis. Looks strong enough to bash with for sure. You do not need dual BL's at all, a single, big motor works very well (due to less weight etc). Its also a lot cheaper :) The 9920 controller, 7XL, and 16 cells 3300-4200 (quality cells, not cheap ones like linked a page or two back) would be very fast.

rc addict

12-22-2005, 07:17 PM

i need some quick help. im buying a movak hv-maxx set soon for my emaxx, and my promatch 7-cell batteries havent been used for a while now. Can i restore my batteries to the full potential (or close) that they were when i first bought them by using them more often and peak charging them? or will they always have a little less capacity now

I Trust Tyler

12-24-2005, 09:33 PM

i run 12-16 cells on 9920/7xl set-up with a 16t pinion and 72t spur gear and its still kinda hard to pull wheelies, the only problem i could think of is that the stock chevrons are to hard and its to cold outside, what would a good set-up for max traction(on road but with a soft high grip tire, not slicks). thanks.

SerpentKing101

12-25-2005, 04:29 AM

i have the 40 series road rages on velocity 6's and my e-maxx (completely stock) can wheelie in 2nd gear.

maybe that would help, although i dont see how a brushless setup wouldnt do anything less than make it backflip everytime you gun it. maybe the slipper is too loose, i dunno.

Mild MAXX

12-25-2005, 09:51 AM

You can charge them up as slow as possable ( lowest amp setting you have on your charger) and try cycling them. As long as you don't have any bad cells they should come back all most like they where when you shelffed them.

rc addict

12-25-2005, 11:38 AM

its defnitely the chevrons, i cut them down with some scissors and i still have problems getting grip on asphault. im switching to bowties soon which give amazing grip

rc addict

12-25-2005, 11:38 AM

i meant road rages, bowties are meant for dirt track

I Trust Tyler

12-25-2005, 04:47 PM

i just tryed my savage wheels and tires and i could easily wheelie in the dirt so its definitly the compound, i run my slipper on no slip action whats so ever.

jozenberger

12-26-2005, 09:39 PM

metalry101

12-26-2005, 11:31 PM

Question that I am sure has been answered here before. What would be the best motor to get as an upgrade, and what do you think would be the best batterey packs? Sorry to be redundant, but 85 pages is a lot to read.
Stock or brushless. There is nothing worthwhile in-between.

As for the battery packs, I'd suggest sticking with GP or Intellect cells if you can afford them, as they're the best out there.

rc addict

12-27-2005, 07:34 AM

promatchracing.com provides some of the fastest packs ive used on an emaxx. for around 109 bucks plus tax, you get two 7-cell matched gp3300 packs which are more than enough for starters. you can also get mathced gp3700s or IB3800s now (a little more $)

as far as the motors, the most reliable motors out are the ones you have now, and the novak hv-maxx brushless kit

rc addict

12-27-2005, 07:38 AM

i made a tough decision choosing to theme my emaxx hopups in red. so far i have red nylon body posts, and red aluminum chassis braces from dynamite. what QUALITY brands carry their emaxx parts in red aluminum or nylon finish? i know when i upgrade rpm things i can dye them, but other parts like skid plates, bulkheads, etc.

Maxx42

12-27-2005, 05:30 PM

Stock or brushless. There is nothing worthwhile in-between.

As for the battery packs, I'd suggest sticking with GP or Intellect cells if you can afford them, as they're the best out there.

I'll second that for the Intellect cells. I've always run my maxxes with cheap cells and they were pretty good, but once I got some IB's, the difference was very noticeable as far as power and speed go.
As far as other powerplant options, the only other alternative that I heard of that is worth taking a look at are the ones offered by kershaw designs. They use different combinations of different sized drill motors that will give good performance, but the cost of their setups is similar to that of a decent feigao/warrior system. I have no personal experience with their setups, but I've seen a couple of films with them in races with some nitro monsters and they held their own pretty good.

rc addict

12-27-2005, 05:48 PM

the only problem is parts support, maintenance, and tunability on the drill motors

Maxx42

12-27-2005, 06:23 PM

The drill motors that they use can't be tuned, so they are like the titans in that respect, but brushes for them should be available through sears, home depot, hardware stores or directly online. They use dewalt motors in some applications (which were originally made for them by Johnson Motors I think). A set of brushes for a dewalt motor will run you about 10 bucks.
I figured I'd list this as another powerplant option for the maxx, but IMO nothing beats a decent brushless system in an RC.
Also for your project, I believe that Integy makes just about any aluminum part you could want for a maxx in red. Good luck with that.

Chachi_RC

12-28-2005, 12:10 AM

Hey fellas! It has been a while since I have posted, as I have had much going on. A few questions to throw out there....1) Aftermarket shocks: Traxxas Big Bore or another brand? 2) Revo wheels & tires or a 40 series with another tire? Keeping price in mind. 3) Is it worth upgrading the steering servo, and to what? 4) Do you guys ever service the gear box, and if so, how do you do it? I guess that is it for now. Hope you all had a great Christmasanukkahwanza! Happy New Year too! Thanks!

tadium54

12-28-2005, 12:22 AM

1. dynamites are cheaper and better(from what i understnd)
2. for racing, it depends, but id look at the revo to start with in the sense of tires
3. yes. check out bluebird servos. cheap and strong
4. yes, but not often. take the linkage off the shifter servo, disconnect the wires from the motor to the esc, and remove the 8 screws that attach it. then lift it out

metalry101

12-28-2005, 06:13 PM

I too have heard great things about the Dynamite shocks. I have absolutely no trouble believing those things either. Losi builds the best shocks in the industry, and Losi and Dynamite are both exclusively distributed by Horizon. The Dynamite shocks look like Losi shocks. You can do the math.

Your racing tire choice is going to depend on your track. Pro-Line Bow Ties are quality. Traxxas' Response tires are pretty sweet. Panther makes some damn fine race tires too. However, all of those tires might be terrible on your track if it's outdoors and really loose. In that case, the PL Mulchers, Losi Zombie Maxxes, or Traxxas SportTraxxes might be the hot ticket. Talk to fellow racers and ask what works best.

Bluebird servos are cheap for a reason. They're sold for cheap because they're made on the cheap. Yes, some people have had great luck w/ them, including me. Some people have had terrible luck w/ them, including me. I'd spend my money elsewhere if I were you. If you're on a budget, the Hitec 645MG has been the bar upon which all other monster truck servos have been judged for years. It's not the torquiest, or the fastest, but it's cheap, it works well, and damn near any hobby shop carries the servo and it's parts. Oh...and yes it's worth upgrading the servo. This should probably be the first upgrade on any Traxxas product, as their servos thoroughly suck, especially the 2055. Traxxas knows this, which is why they include such a weaksauce servo saver. If you're going to upgrade to a stronger servo, you're going to want a servo saver that can transfer that power and speed to the wheels. I run the Pro-Line Maxx Performance Steering Kit myself, but it takes a lot of Dremel work to make it fit on the stock chassis (it's made for 2D T-Maxx chassis, not the 3D craziness that the E-Maxx runs). Since this really isn't an option for most people (it's pricey, hard to find since it's been discontinued, and takes some work to make it fit), I'd suggest the Kimbrough 124 servo saver. It's a heavy duty unit that was designed with monster trucks in mind. That said, it's still the same style as the stock one, so after time it will wear out and be no better than the Traxxas unit, so I'd suggest picking up an extra. Servo savers are as much a wear item as anything on the truck, and at six bucks a pop, it's not like picking up a spare will break the bank.

As for the tranny, unless I hear some really bad noises or the truck won't move, I don't touch it, but I am lazy like that.

rc addict

12-29-2005, 10:04 AM

hah integy is crap from what i hear

Chachi_RC

12-29-2005, 09:25 PM

I recently got a full set (fr & rr) of Integy Super Duty Type II aluminum bulkheads off ebay, and even though I haven't installed them yet, I am impressed with the quality. The Type I was crap. These look beefy! I'll let you guys know once I start bashin' them. I did some checking into the Dynamite shocks, and those look like the way to go. Price and performance together! I also ordered a full set of new Revo wheels and tires off ebay today, and got them for $41! They are nice wheels and the tires are an all around tread. I bash, not race, so they will work for me. For my winter project, I just have a few items left to get before I start the upgrade process. In October, I also got a full set of hex screws, which will be a nice change. Crowd Pleazer body will be added as well. The father-in-law came through nice for X-Mas with a gift cert. for the local hobby shop! Not many can say that about their dad-in-law! Left to get are two new titan motors, as one went to sh** on me, and maybe a set of some alum. skids, with the RPM wears over top of them. This does add some weight, but with those 7 cells I got, it won't matter. It already rips wheelies in 2nd from a stop! Thanks again for all the help fellas! Any other ideas to make my rig bullet-proof and faster, let me know! Thanks, and Happy New Year!

alexrckid

12-29-2005, 11:51 PM

the rolling G2R chassis pictured in trhe 12/14 @ 10:48 pm post on the last page is 550.00 ....not 284.00..............in this case, that's not really too bad....it includes the GORILLAMAXX center section as well as the revo's front/rear assemblies AND some tranny parts...............check www.rc-monster.com

alexrckid

12-29-2005, 11:53 PM

a concern that i would have with this combo is how it would do with the xtra weight of the batteries(up to 16) as well as the heavier weight of the motors(or even a brushless combo)....all compared to the weight of a REVO....which is MUCH lighter...............hopefully the inboard shock dynamics can handle the extra weight..................

rc addict

12-30-2005, 08:55 PM

not just that but the electric truck will have much more torque to get it moving to top speed and im pretty sure itll be faster all around

metalry101

01-01-2006, 04:53 AM

...............hopefully the inboard shock dynamics can handle the extra weight..................
IMO they can't. I don't think they can handle the Revo's weight. Well...actually, that's a lie. It's not so much the weight that's the problem, it's the suspension travel. By multiplying the leverage so many times, they're achieving massive wheel travel with minimal shock travel. This effectively makes the truck seem heavier than it is. F1 cars don't have 1" of shock travel and 4" of wheel travel. They keep them as equal as possible because it makes controlling the vehicle much, much easier.It is just bad engineering in my opinion. Traxxas claims to have the best engineering team out there...I don't buy it. They've come up with some cool stuff, but the real world (read: not Traxxas advertising/propaganda) advantage of that suspension is primarily marketability. People look at it and think it's different and cool looking and automatically think it's better. When you stop to think about it, it really is a flawed concept in many, many ways, and I don't believe for a second that it's better than the traditional 4 or 8 shock layout of other monster trucks.

I Trust Tyler

01-01-2006, 05:17 PM

if theres any advantage, its not bending 1 or 2 shocks in half when you clip a stump or other object and full speed, if you can consider that an advantage.

ToDaMaxx

01-01-2006, 05:21 PM

Hello,

I have watched this forum for a bit and have been able to pick up some good info from the posts. From that info, I decided that a E-Maxx (WideMaxx) was for me. Now that I have had one (my first RC vehicle as well,lol) for two months, I have been recently looking to do some radical upgrades to it. I just simply do Not know where to go to get all of the stuff I am looking for....and frankly I am not even sure what I am looking for... lol .... So....

I wanted to see if anyone had the time and patience to lead me to the absolute best options for upgrading my E-Maxx..... ToDaMaxx. :)

Here is a general idea of what I am looking to do, and please remember I am learning fast as I can ("Newbie" - lol) and know that I AM open to any and all creative ideas.

I am more of a "Basher" with my E-Maxx than anything else. Top speed is fun and I would like to have a substantial one, but torque and bashing would be my choice if I could not have the best of both worlds. I have broken a couple bulkheads, many shock ends, "steering arms"(name??), bumpers, etc......... as well as bent too many screws to list as well. Yes, I know...I can't drive..and my wallet reminds me way too consistently. LOL@Me (Not an Excuse, but about 75% of the time I drive it is late at night after too many hours of work, on the pavement with little to no light. My E has "met" my neighbors mailbox post and our lifesaving fire hydrant ~at Top Speed~ once or twice)

That all leads me to these two desired end results....

1) I would like a Extremely High Quality "complete" kit(?) (not sure what you call it) that is made of one of the strongest and least likely to be damaged materials, to wit: Aircraft Aluminum, Carbon Fiber, Titanium...???
It would not hurt my feelings if it looked cool too, lol. :)

When I say kit, I am speaking of (the closest thing to) a package that contains all possible pieces needed to replace every single piece of E-Maxx plastic (or maybe just everything.. like matching Rims, etc). To go with that, I would need to get any pieces not included in the best "package/kit" that we can find that would match visually and in quality (Great shock setup, Cervo, or whatever is needed) As I know you can tell, I am wanting to do this so maybe I can keep it in one (or two) piecees and work on it much less, while at the same time trying to get one bad looking ride. :) (I hear that some of the higher end "setups" will allow room for up to twenty battery cells- Wooot Woot)

2) With wish #1 filled (probably just a dream, lol), I would like to go through with the following, but the following would clearly be contingent upon the willingness of a knowledgeable person in this area assisting me greatly.

***** I would like to replace the two electric motors with the two of the Best, Most Powerful electric motors (with Great Brand Name Recognition/Reliability) on the Market today (brushless maybe? I have NO idea... lol). And if I can do that, I would like to know what all I need to change to match that setup, and which brand/model of each of those pieces as well I would need to order at the same time (Transmission? Rear End? Speed Controll? Drive Shaft? I really don't know, lol)

If I am able to get those two WISHES fulfilled, I think I would be sitting on one strong, reliable, and (bad) truck.

So, with ALL of that said.... Is there anybody out there willing to help me out with their information, links, experience, and MOST importantly their opinions for this desired setup???? Any and all assistance would be more than Greatly Appreciated. My tentative budget on Mods will be up to maybe $1000-$1200. Maybe I can squeeze a little more, but I figured someone would want to know that info when giving advice. I know thats not enough to buy the world, but I am interested to see where I am able to get with this wishlist. Reminder, I do still have a E-Maxx with everything working fine on it for any parts I can use off of it....)
Thanks again!!

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx (Nate)

P.S. HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!! :D :eek:

I Trust Tyler

01-01-2006, 05:38 PM

you cant go wrong with anything from Fastlane Machine, and get a brushless set-up, check out rc-monster.com

ToDaMaxx

01-01-2006, 05:45 PM

Thanks for your info, I will check out that website right now and see what I can find. I remember hitting that site before, but I did not find anything that I THOUGHT would work. (Thats probably because I am not sure exactly what it is I am looking for, ie: name of package or kit/etc..)

Regardless, I'm looking right now and thanks again. Please drop me any links to items that would fit for my E-Maxx/WideMaxx hop up (if you have the time) because I am clearly just "missing" what it is I need. LOL.

Thanks to you!

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx (Nate)

SerpentKing101

01-01-2006, 06:24 PM

ToDaMaxx

01-01-2006, 08:56 PM

if price is really no object...

1: id convert the entire E-Maxx into a supermaxx ( unlimitedengineering.com ) , leaving nothing stock except maybe the tranny case (if UE makes them, then they'll be replaced, too)

2: with that out the way, id go for a lehner/schulze bruhless setup, something to the tune of a lehner 1920 series motor and schulze 40.160 esc and invest in some thunder power lipo packs (thunder power has these 11.1 volt 8000mah packs. you'll need 4 wired in series for the aforementioned setup.) dont skimp on the other electric stuff too, drop in two sailwinch spools (they have some the size of stardard servos) for steering and shifting and a nice FM or PCM radio setup (airtronics, Futaba, and hitec or good quality brands)
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for $1000-1200, id upgrade all the driveline and transmission pieces as I can (probably more UE products), and the shocks, bulks, servo saver and steering linkages, and maybe the arms and chassis. for the motors, id go for either a HV-Maxx, dewalt drill-motor conversion, or a less extreme lehner/schulze combo (the one listed above makes nearly 4hp. most nitro trucks similar in size to an e-maxx makes a little more than half that, and we all know how nuts they are)

First things first ....... THANK YOU ! That is some excellent information and great leads to apparently top notch stuff. Now if I could just make a list of stuff, or a list of links to what I need, I can place an overnight order... Wooooot Wooooot!!! So anyways... Thank you!

Now, just FYI... Price is an object.... I have just tried to set myself a reasonable budget and will try to stick to it. ;) Wish me luck. :)

As I look at your post (prior to knowing what I actually "exactly" need to order, I am guessing you might have listed out some awesome stuff but that I fear it will far exceed my "budget". Hope that is not the case... Because this is starting to sound good. I will check this stuff out, but alot of the "RC" is still foreign to me and frankly I really dont know exactly what I will need. Guess I will keep working on it... BUT I really appreciate you taking the time to assist... really.

So, you have a guess about what your setup description might would cost?? Jus curious... Cause I really cant price it until I figure out exactly what I need. But I CAN say this... I am serious enough about this endeavor that if your proposal in reference to my E-Maxx was one I could afford, or get close to being able to afford... I WOULD BUY IT TONIGHT. Serious. If you get free time and are willing to help any more by posting links to the exact products that I will need to accomplish my previously described goals, I would consider myself in your debt. Either way though, I do appreciate the help you have already offered and do hope I hear back from ya. It is pretty clear that this "is not your first rodeo" per say, and your knowledge can get me where I need to be.

I know I speak about a pretty decent amount of cash to spend on my ride, but I would just rather go ahead and get it absolutely right all at once, rather than keep fixing the plastic and slowly putting something together. I really think that all at once may be cheaper... but who knows. Again..thanks, and if you can help more please dont hesitate.

Take care and God Bless,
ToDaMaxx (Nate)