E-Maxx Forum v2.0

[Lord Radeon]

Metalry: No, the shafts are just very weak. They're made of aluminum, while the stockers are hardened steel thats about 9 times stronger =)

[metalry101]

Gotcha, sounds like I'll be keeping that hardened steel shaft. (Maybe I should word this differently? LOL)

[Soya v1.1]

That's one tiny shaft:cool:

[E-MaxxDestroyer]

Yay! I just stripped an idler gear in my Maxx.:rolleyes: Donuts are fun....

elctroTEEN: I have 4WS on my E-Maxx and I personally like it. Not hard to drive at speed at all and it tracks quite well. It is a little easier to flip now, but not too bad. Good for donuts too (1 or 2 wheels in the air):D Rear steering does seem to be a little hard on the rear diff though. Could be the fact that I have a spool though.

'Destroyer

[Lord Radeon]

spool =)

[metalry101]

Spools are awesome! I run one in the rear of my truck too. So, in other news, I just got some new street tires today. My TRC Parks and TRC rims came today. 63 bones including tax. Not bad, eh? I haven't run them yet (radio trouble, just got an XR3). Speaking of which, anyone in here run that radio and got a suggestion for me setting it up? It's a bitch, and I'm really thinking that selling it and getting an MX-3 is where it's at. Anybody in here have one for sale by chance, or know anyone who does, or of a place that I could get one cheap? I don't need any servos, or maybe not even an Rx if I can get a Tx on 27 Mhz.

[metalry101]

So, I can't write in the English language, but what the hell? What I was trying to say was...Does anyone have an MX-3? They're where it's at.

[Lord Radeon]

I HAVE one, but it's not for sale. Awesome radio. Check ebay, you can get the TX only for ~$60.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Metalry: No, the shafts are just very weak. They're made of aluminum, while the stockers are hardened steel thats about 9 times stronger =)
What about the lightweight input shaft?

[Lord Radeon]

Both shafts experience equal torque. Both shafts will break. Both shafts are worthless. ;) :rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

Oh you guys are going to like this.... pics wednesday... ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) :eek:

[metalry101]

Oooo, I do wanna see your Maxx. But for the subject of this post, has anyone ever thought of making a winch for the thing? How could would that be? I'm thinking of maybe trying to fab one. For the moment I would just have to make a way to secure my p2k2 to the front of the vehicle (behind the bumper) and some wire or string or something to it, and then mount another esc to it. How cool would that be? Of course a way to make a little gear train or something to make it have more torque would be ideal, but I don't think there's a lot of room. Then again, w/ gear reduction, I could run a much smaller motor. Anyone ever hear of anything like this? I think it would look way badass, and be totally original, and ideally, at least somewhat functional, maybe not practical, but it would be cool.

[powertrip]

here's pics of my emaxx.. it's all stock.. L0L.. The body is super trashed now.. this was only a few days ago too.

http://www.sbcdjs.com/h2/

[neverenufpwr]

was thinkin about gettin an E for my old lady. she CANT drive my 2.5 (you have to go fast all the time) but was thinkin that the big E would be a good truck for her. it seems this truck has plenty of power but the low maintanence im lookin for. also , most of the parts interchange, right? maybee the E- maxx would still be to much:confused: what do you guys think?????????

[Soya v1.1]

I made a winch for my friend's truck. It's a servo from a Radioshack truck that the stops were cut out of. It's a tiny motor, but it's geared way down, and it can lift his bruiser straight up:eek: :D

[Soya v1.1]

Oh, BTW, I'll see if I can post a pic of it, it's pretty small.

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by neverenufpwr
was thinkin about gettin an E for my old lady. she CANT drive my 2.5 (you have to go fast all the time) but was thinkin that the big E would be a good truck for her. it seems this truck has plenty of power but the low maintanence im lookin for. also , most of the parts interchange, right? maybee the E- maxx would still be to much:confused: what do you guys think?????????

The EMaxx is more powerful and harder to control then the 2.5

[elctroTEEN]

Destroyer how did you set your emaxx up for 4ws? I would like any info. Thanks in advance.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Both shafts experience equal torque. Both shafts will break. Both shafts are worthless. ;) :rolleyes: "Both shafts..." as in both input shafts or both aluminum replacement shafts?

[k_sw31]

Hey all-

I am wanting to get some sorta electric monster truck with the money I am gonna make this summer, and so right now I am sorta scoping out the emaxx.

Before I get one, I want to make sure it wont be a total money pit. So, my question for you guys is, what parts are a common break (I am gonna be running 12-14 cells and stock electronics if I get one), because basically, I wanna get the hop ups I really need and leave it at that. Bottom line is, I dont want to dump a whole lot of money into it, just the essencials. :)

Also, have they updated the e-maxx with the new 2.5 suspension? I was thinking of buying rpm 2.5 arms, as well as driveshafts and turnbuckles...thats just a possibility. :)

So, I essentialy want to know what hopups would I need to run this truck happily in stock form, not spending too much money. :)

I look forward for a maxx :D-
-Kyle

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by PCC
"Both shafts..." as in both input shafts or both aluminum replacement shafts?

Both input shafts, and both replacement shafts. The upgrade lightweight shafts WILL break under any real torque.

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Hey all-

I am wanting to get some sorta electric monster truck with the money I am gonna make this summer, and so right now I am sorta scoping out the emaxx.

Before I get one, I want to make sure it wont be a total money pit. So, my question for you guys is, what parts are a common break (I am gonna be running 12-14 cells and stock electronics if I get one), because basically, I wanna get the hop ups I really need and leave it at that. Bottom line is, I dont want to dump a whole lot of money into it, just the essencials. :)

Also, have they updated the e-maxx with the new 2.5 suspension? I was thinking of buying rpm 2.5 arms, as well as driveshafts and turnbuckles...thats just a possibility. :)

So, I essentialy want to know what hopups would I need to run this truck happily in stock form, not spending too much money. :)

I look forward for a maxx :D-
-Kyle

Only necessities to the new maxx are deans plugs for the batteries and electronics. A receiver pack always helps. IMO you'll also want rear CVDs, as the stock ones won't last long. The torque of the truck is incredible. But in stock form on 14 cells, its a riot of fun :)

[k_sw31]

Ok sounds great, so I'll just be wanting rear CVDs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUR79&P=7) then? Or should I go for front and rear (pricey though :rolleyes: )

On the issue of batteries, I'd like to pick up a couple more pairs to run. I know I am gonna get these PMR 7 cells packs (link (http://www.promatchracing.com/emaxxassem.jpg)) but I would like to have another pair of six cell packs.

I was thinking about either the 3000s or 2400s found here (http://www.towerhobbies.com/promos/03mj/oric1090m.html) or just picking up a couple of GP3300 stick packs from PMR. :)

[metalry101]

Personally, I would run the Pro-line kit, but RPM stuff is supposed to be really good too. It's about the same price (okay, 10 bux more, but you get Ti turnbuckles and better hardware too). Also, Deans plugs aren't necessary. They are better in every way, but if your speed control fries, it costs you 45 plus shipping to get it fixed instead of 20 plus shipping. So, they're cool, and better than the Tamiya battery plugs and bullet motor connectors, but they'll cost you a lot more in the long run because you WILL fry the EVX some time.

[metalry101]

Soya, please hook me up w/ the pics and where to get the stuff for that set up. That would be off the hook.

[k_sw31]

Well, I am already running deans and I usually just hardwire so thats probably just what I'll do.

I dont think I'll get a suspension kit for now, since it will cost me an extra 50$ or so, but who knows, I am probably a month or two off from ordering...

[Lord Radeon]

IF you buy a new MAXX, it'll have the same wide arms as the proline kit and the RPM stuff. No need to buy another set. Those PMR batts will serve you well :cool:

Front CVDs arent necessary. All the torque goes to the rear cvds. You might even want to invest in Ti centers.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by metalry101
Soya, please hook me up w/ the pics and where to get the stuff for that set up. That would be off the hook.

I'll post a pic on Friday. Try calling Radioshack, ask about a steering servo for the Enforcer monster truck .
On another note, why do you want a winch for an E-maxx? The E-maxx is more of a performance machine, not a realistic one.

[powertrip]

What kind of runtime do you guys get out of 3000Mah 7 cells packs?? I only get about 10minutes on mine running full on... Is this about right or is something not right?

[metalry101]

Soya~ I just want it to look way badass. I know it's not as realistic, but it would still look cool w/ a winch.

Powertrip~ W/ full throttle the entire time I would assume that to be about right, but normal driving should get you a lot long run time than that.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
IF you buy a new MAXX, it'll have the same wide arms as the proline kit and the RPM stuff. No need to buy another set. Those PMR batts will serve you well :cool:

Front CVDs arent necessary. All the torque goes to the rear cvds. You might even want to invest in Ti centers.

Where can I get the Ti center shafts? Would steel ones be fine? I just dont want stuff breaking left and right, I am willing to spend money, but I'd prefer not to go overboard. :)

[powertrip]

Normal driving? that was normal driving!! hehehehe.. We play pretty rough so I guess 10 minutes is good.. probably due to the 7 cell too... I will try it with some 6 cells.

Originally posted by metalry101

Powertrip~ W/ full throttle the entire time I would assume that to be about right, but normal driving should get you a lot long run time than that. [/B]

[TC3 Benjammin]

Welp, I got the Proline kit installed. I may have found some used Panther Meatgrinders on Clawz rims. I think they're the ones that have offset.

I think Lord Radeon told me before that you shouldn't put the offset wheels on an E-Maxx with the wide suspension. How come?

[metalry101]

You can run off-set rims w/ the Pro-Line kit, I'm doing it right now. I'm running TRC Parks on TRC rims and they work fine. However, these are street tires, and the Maxx needs all the help it can get when it comes to staying shiny side up on the street. For track usage, that will be a little wide. I don't see why you can run it, but you probably don't want to bash the hell out of it, because the farther out the rims are, the more leverage they put on all the components every time you hit something, go over a big ass bump, land a jump, etc. They'll work, and your truck will be next to impossible to roll, but your turning may also suffer. I haven't tested it yet, but I'm thinking that the extra width might negatively effect your turning radius. Hope this helps a bit, but wait for what Lord Radeon says too. I don't have too much experience w/ the the set up yet. Also, I don't race, and I think you are planning to, so his advice might be geared more towards that.

[TC3 Benjammin]

That makes a lot of sense actually. I think I may buy new tires, no rims. The E I bought didn't have the tires glued, so I'll just put the new tires on the stock rims. Freaking $30/pair for tires at my LHS. I like to support the locals, but DAMN. :)

EDIT: oops! Forgot to say thanks, metalry. I appreciate the help. :)

[lil_general_lee]

Back to the winch thing. I pondered the idea till you guys convinced me to get/make one. Someone said they used a servo for a winch but I'd want something better then that.... Oh say enough to lift my truck from the floor to the ceiling. I'm building a rock crawl and hill climb truck and need a winch ! lol. Any ideas on how to build one and run it off of a seperate channel. Poor truck will need 2 remotes or at least a radio with 5 channels. Steering, Throttle, Shifting, Independent Rear Steer and Winch. Weight is really no concern being the truck will be powered by a Lehner 1940/5, Although I'd want it to look somewhat authentic and not look like half a car hanging off the front. I think it would be pretty easy to mount to the Dragon RC redneck bumpers since they are huge and make a great platform.

[Lord Radeon]

You could take the stops off of a high-torque servo and have it wind a reel with 1/16" steel cable on it. Just a thought

[ibanezcollector]

Howdy all Im new in the emaxx area..

Just sold my Savage and traded my 4tec pro for the Emaxx

So ill be posting quite a bit..

Any recommendations on changing stock parts?? Like which ones are most prone to break etc etc??

Any tips and tricks on the Emaxx.. There were lots of em for the savage..

Thanks in advance
Ibanezcollector

[metalry101]

Is it the newer version w/ the WideMaxx suspension? If not, I would highly recommend either the Pro-Line suspension kit, or RPM's extended arms. Personally, I run the Pro-Line kit, and it's great, and I would recommend it over the RPM stuff by virtue of it's titanium turnbuckles and superior adjustability, although both options are very durable and will help your truck handle much, much better. Another tip, if you're not going to go BL, run 7 cells. If you've got a lot of money to spend, I would recommend Pro-Match's stuff. They've got matched GP3300 7-cell packs in the E-Maxx configuration. A better steering servo is a good idea. I run a Hitec 5645 Digital, and I love it. My favorite has to be the cheapest here though. Buy some extra antenna tubes, stretch them over the chassis, buy a shower cap, stretch it over the chassis, while keeping the antenna tubes up to keep the shower cap off the hot motor, batts, etc, and find some mud.

[Lord Radeon]

Smoked my rental BL controller. Lol... I'll post details when I get around to it. Lovely puff of blue smoke though

[k_sw31]

How do the stock steering servos work? Do they have enough torque to give the maxx suitable steering? I was thinking of picking up a hitec 645 mg for steering (that would be from around 85 oz/in to 130 oz/in), that is, unless the stock servo works fine.

What about servo savers? should I pick up a kimbourgh saver for insurance or what?

[metalry101]

The stock servo isn't horrible, but if you upgrade the servo, upgrade the servo saver. I know I broke or stripped a bunch of them before I upgraded to a Kimbrough. It was definately a well spent 6 dollars.

Lord~ You can rent BL controllers??? Hook me up w/ this info. I'm sure it had to be at a track or something, but still. And what happened to yours? Aren't you running the 7018/ 4200 combo?

[Lord Radeon]

IT was loaned to me by Donnie from RumRunner for use this weekend in the big regional race here, since my controller hadn't come back from Germany yet. He had a bad solder joint on one of the connectors on the controller and neither of us caught it. Six packs later, the controller was toast, the connector melted inside the motor, and the blue smoke a-flowing.

[metalry101]

Here's my Maxx covered w/ mud!!

[metalry101]

Check out how clean the center chassis stayed. I put a shower cap over everything, and even when blasting through puddles at speed, and flinging mud everywhere, the EVX stays dry!!!

[metalry101]

Here's what my Maxx looks like w/ my new TRC Parks on TRC rims.

[metalry101]

Here's a top view, so you can see just how wide the truck is w/ a Pro-Line kit, and offset wheels.

[Soya v1.1]

Cool truck, man. I wonder if I'll ever resurrect mine:(

[powertrip]

I broke my rear CVD and now i need replacement.. I have the new wider EMAXX, is this the right replacement for it??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUR79&P=7

[Lord Radeon]

No, get the wider CVDs for the proline kit

[powertrip]

This one???

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBLN6&P=7

[metalry101]

It sounds as though you have the stock Traxxas arms, and I don't think those CVDs will fit. Do you have the new WideMaxx suspension, or the Pro-Line suspension? If it's stock, it the WideMaxx, that's the Traxxas stuff. I'm not sure if it's the same width or not. Here's some that I know will work if you have the Traxxas suspension. 2.5 width, WideMaxx CVDs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDXN7&P=0)

[powertrip]

Originally posted by metalry101
It sounds as though you have the stock Traxxas arms, and I don't think those CVDs will fit. Do you have the new WideMaxx suspension, or the Pro-Line suspension? If it's stock, it the WideMaxx, that's the Traxxas stuff. I'm not sure if it's the same width or not. Here's some that I know will work if you have the Traxxas suspension. 2.5 width, WideMaxx CVDs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDXN7&P=0)

Funny thing.. they are out of the other one... and this one I just happen to pick up at the LHS.. what a great coincidence!! =D

[dont slow down]

i bought the new rpm widemaxx arms and the stock shafts work, im going to get longer ones soon, but the stock ones will work, i did have to get longer tie rods though, gave my truck quite a bashing last week while camping, my truck tumbled down a rock about 30 feet, dropped off a 20 foot cliff, then continued tumbling for another 10 feet, and the miricle was the only thing i broke was the front driver side bumper mount. i was really impressed that nothing else broke. i guess traxxas makes some strong stuff.

[Namvet]

What oil do you use in your Titan engine?

Thanks in advance

[metalry101]

I don't use oil, but cleaning it up w/ motor cleaning spray like Trinity's Buggy Blast always helps them run longer, stronger, cooler, and much more efficiently. Bushing oil wouldn't hurt though.

[Namvet]

Originally posted by metalry101
I don't use oil, but cleaning it up w/ motor cleaning spray like Trinity's Buggy Blast always helps them run longer, stronger, cooler, and much more efficiently. Bushing oil wouldn't hurt though.

Thanks for the info.

[powertrip]

after I put the RRP Slipper kit, the screws for the spur gear rub against the cover.. am i supposed to keep the cover off now??

I placed the spacer first, then the first clutch part, then the bearing w/ the spur and then the second clutch part....

[Lord Radeon]

The cover isn't really necessary. If it wont work without rubbing, I'd remove it

[MrHorspwer]

Has anybody had any experience with the new Integy piggyback shocks?

They are all over eBay for right around $100. I planned on getting the Dynamite/Losi units, but the piggybacks look super-ultra-trick... like the Progressive Suspension units, but at 1/3 the cost (cool looking is worth the extra $35 to me if they're good shocks).

If they're junk, I'll stick with the Dynamite/Losi units.

Also, what should I replace my plastic slider axles with?

I finally twisted the rears up playing on cement. Word of advice... don't use OFNA diff lock in the rear diff if you plan on playing on cement, you WILL break axles:D Works great in the dirt and climbing though. I plan on buying a pair of stock slider for the time being and reinforcing them with dowl rod, but I'm sure I'll break them again. What should I pick up to replace them? Don't say MIP because I won't buy them... personal preferance based on past experience. Anything other than MIP.

Team Bluestar has what looks to be a nice set of stainless universal shafts on eBay. I have delt with him before and he makes good products. Any experience with these particular shafts? The longer units for the WideMaxx don't come out until later this month so I guess I'll wait and keep it off the cement.

[Lord Radeon]

The progressives are expensive because that much work goes into them. Take a look at the monster shafts on those things... like 2x as thick as an 1/8 buggy shock. The integies have SMALL reservoirs and VERY small shafts. They're sealing capabilities are inferior to the progressives, or the dyn/losis.

Bluestar... I've dealt with him before too. Good products, but I'd stay away from stainless driveshafts. Stainless is such a soft metal, I'd think the joints would wear fast. But that may or may not be the case. If you dont want MIPs, you can't go wrong with UE axles. Supermaxx's are so strong and beefy. I had a set for my maxx years back. Awesome stuff.

[k_sw31]

The topic of shocks brought up another question that I have....

Do the maxx shocks have problems with popping the caps off on hard landings?

My pede had serious troubles with that.

[Lord Radeon]

Same stock shocks. They sure do.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by powertrip
after I put the RRP Slipper kit, the screws for the spur gear rub against the cover.. am i supposed to keep the cover off now??

I placed the spacer first, then the first clutch part, then the bearing w/ the spur and then the second clutch part....

What spacer are you talking about? I put in the anodized piece first, then the slipper element, then the spur with bearing, then the second slipper element, then the second ano'd piece, and then the spring and locknut. I'll post a pic afterschool.

[powertrip]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
What spacer are you talking about? I put in the anodized piece first, then the slipper element, then the spur with bearing, then the second slipper element, then the second ano'd piece, and then the spring and locknut. I'll post a pic afterschool.

There was a little spacer.. smaller than the bearing.. the directions said to put it in first.... IF i didn't, and i tried not to, the spur gear wobbled alot.

[Maxxcrazy]

ok... its getting a little annoying. if the person you want to quote posts rite before you then you dont need to quote that person...

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by Maxxcrazy
ok... its getting a little annoying. if the person you want to quote posts rite before you then you dont need to quote that person...

STFU. :)

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
STFU. :)

NO, YOU STFU NOOBLAR

/sarcasm :cool:

[Soya v1.1]

powertrip-- Mine never came with the spacer, I just played around with it, it doesn't wobble at all. It wobbles less than my touring car :D

[Lord Radeon]

For less wobble, use a small amount of CA clue to glue your bearings into the holes in the tranny case (only the ones that go in the holes, naturally. You have to be VERY careful not to get any glue inside the bearings. Just glue the outer race to the tranny case where they normally slide in. This removes a good bit of play inside your transmission.

[powertrip]

I'm replacing my crossbrace w/ another stock one.. (PN3930). The thing is that the new replacement one comes with different tread screws.. Will this work fine or do i have to do something else.

[powertrip]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
For less wobble, use a small amount of CA clue to glue your bearings into the holes in the tranny case (only the ones that go in the holes, naturally. You have to be VERY careful not to get any glue inside the bearings. Just glue the outer race to the tranny case where they normally slide in. This removes a good bit of play inside your transmission.

the wobble is just with the spur gear... if i put the spacer that came with the RRP slipper, everything is fine.. i'm running it without the cover now though

[Lord Radeon]

the wobble is because the output shaft moves inside the tranny, i promise. :D

[powertrip]

should i still mess with it?? or should i just go with the spacer and no cover???

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
the wobble is because the output shaft moves inside the tranny, i promise. :D

Actually, that may be it. I think I need to disect my tranny again:)

Oh, and Powertrip, use the cover;)

[egdinger]

for the guy wanting to make the winch have you seen the gear boxes made by tamiya, http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/educational/robotics.html , seems like one of though would work, 1300.9:1 ratio, tourque, item # 72005

[metalry101]

That is an interesting idea, because I have seen their little transmissions before. The only problems I see w/ that are the gears standing up to that much torque, and it being kinda big. I don't have a ton of room in front of the shock tower. That is a really cool idea, and I'll have to look into it. Dirt cheap too. Thanx

[egdinger]

no prob, but maybe your right about the gears, never thought about that

[TeamMishap]

What if I hooked up the EVX to a Lehner 4200? Bad things right?

[Lord Radeon]

Nothing would happen. The 4200 has 3 wires in/out and the EVX only has two. Two phase controller cant make a 3 phase motor do anything :-p

[Soya v1.1]

Man, I really want that new Shulze controller. Runs both brushed and BL. Costs lots of $$$, though.

[Lord Radeon]

No kidding. It even comes in a box as opposed to shrink wrap. If it's amp ratings were higher, I'd buy one

[powertrip]

It's been 5 weekends in a row where i have been planning to run my Emaxx... ..

1st weekend: set screw in pinion comes lose and gets lodged in spur gear. Only 1 motor was powering the drivetrain and it blew up.
got new spur, motor and set screws.

2nd weekend: stock slipper comes loose and melts new spur gear.
GOT RRP slipper.

3rd weekend: Rain

4th weekend: not really stop me, but front bumper flew off.. literally.

5th weekend: just messing around in the front and mashed into a curb.. front left upper suspension arm destroyed.
Now I hope the LHS has the arm that i need. Will go with the cheaper traxass for now and order some stronger ones for all four later.

But I did get my touring car dialed in (it's electric)... Now I have to see how it fares against my friends nitro TC3 RTR stock.

[Soya v1.1]

I just sold my guitar amp, got some money, and am currently buying the parts to get my maxx running again. But Tower doesn't have half the stuff I need in stock:(

[Soya v1.1]

Nevermind.

[Lord Radeon]

I think I might sell my maxx...

[metalry101]

Why? If you do, I've got first dibs on the BL system if you part it.

[Lord Radeon]

Cash for my real car... not sure yet though.

[metalry101]

Cool, well, LMK, cuz I want the BL system and the batts if you do sell it.

[MrHorspwer]

Lord Radeon... I think I'm gonna oprder up my Dyn/Losi shocks Monday. I am running Trinity blue springs now... I assume they will fit the new shocks. What weight shock oil should I use with the springs now that I don't have to worry about shock caps blowing off?

[Lord Radeon]

With stock shocks, the caps will blow either way regardless of oil. I've found 50 weight suits the dyn/losis the best for all-around handling.

[Soya v1.1]

I just bought some SMC 2400's last night. She's gonna run again:D

[jeepboy109]

im gett a maxx thursday
i no how to WATERPROOF if any one wants to know
anywho i was wondering what parts breake easely cause ill get steel parts i can make them

bryce 12 years old

[Maxxcrazy]

remember dont go into deep water even if its waterproffed. just a small spalsh wont hurt it tho.

[Lord Radeon]

There IS no way to waterproof the EMaxx. I promise you. Also - Steel sucks for r/c purposes period. Waaaaaaay too heavy.

[jeepboy109]

o there is a way to water proof your truck its a lot of work but can come off and on if u want to no how just e mail me at brycesbenjamin@msn.com
if steel is to heavy whats lighter? other than alumaninum

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by jeepboy109
if steel is to heavy whats lighter? other than alumaninum

Pretty much anything. Titanium, magnesium, etc.

[jeepboy109]

alumaninum is the lightes right? im making a full bottom skid plate i mean the whole bottom not just the mittle over the bars to thats so no splash comes up when i go thru water

[Maxxcrazy]

to anyone who wants integy shocks...

that leaking problem is not true. ive had mine for almost a month and none of them have leaked yet. these are the old ones too.

[Maxxcrazy]

jeepboy- water WILL find a way through. theres nothing you can do to completely water proof it. STAY AWAY from water

[Maxxcrazy]

tell me what you think

http://www.******.net/media/now3.jpg

[metalry101]

OK, I don't know what Jeepboy's way of waterproofing an E-Maxx is, but I have a way to make my pretty water resistant. Maybe that's what he means. If any of you saw my truck a few pages back you know I use my truck in the mud. So how do I keep it dry? Simple, put antenna tubes over the chassis and stretch a shower cap over them. It's not perfect, but it does work well. I don't submerge my truck, but mud, snow, puddles, etc, don't effect it. The only downside to this is airflow. The shower cap is waterproof, problem is it is also airproof, so the motors, batteries, and EVX get very hot when I run it like this, so I have to let it cool between runs. And, as for the steel thing, not only is it heavy, it rusts easily.

[jeepboy109]

ok guy i just got my maxx last night and am working on water proofing it i do the same thing u do metarly but i use a small tube and put a hole in the shower cap stick the tube thru clamp it so no water gets in and put screne bout 3-4 lawers that hard for water to get thru i put it on the top of the tube sticking out of the truck and i put a full skid plate on bottom an so no water gets up there i mean skid plate over servo and under where the battery pack are the u put some rubber where the shaft is by the transmission and alot of grease that makes it pretty much water proof o and 1 fan on motors and one on evx

tell me what u think guys:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Soya v1.1]

I think you need to use punctuation before anybody can read your post:rolleyes:

[jeepboy109]

can u guys post some videos of e maxxes???:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :confused:

[dont slow down]

has anyone put savage tires and rims on their emaxx yet? im going to do it, but are they bigger than the stock tires? if so, should i gear down a little bit? ill let you know how they fit etc, and ill post pics as soon as i can.

[metalry101]

They're a little bigger, but not enough to worry about. I've heard great things about them traction wise, but I don't know. Gearing shouldn't be an issue, I think they're only about 1/4" taller. They should fit just like every Maxx tire does, they're the same size pretty much, and they're made to be used on either vehicle.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Ouch! Blew some shocks this weekend.

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1024257/1913124/24616544.jpg

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1024257/1913124/24616534.jpg

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1024257/1913124/24616482.jpg

Got the Dynamite/Losi shocks on the way from Stormer. Should be the much needed improvement that I so desperately need.

Boy, those stock shocks really suck. :mad:

Least I have an excuse to upgrade them though. :D

[Soya v1.1]

Man, Stormer's shipping really sucks. Expected delivery was yesterday. I ordered on Sunday:(

[MrHorspwer]

I ordered my Dynamite/Losi's from the cheapest place I found... $59 from my LHS and no shipping:D
Got new axles on the way too. Not here yet though:( I wanted to go bashing tomorrow morning... maybe next weekend.

[TeamMishap]

Your LHS do mailorder? I'd like to pick some up.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by MrHorspwer
I ordered my Dynamite/Losi's from the cheapest place I found... $59 from my LHS and no shipping:D
Got new axles on the way too. Not here yet though:( I wanted to go bashing tomorrow morning... maybe next weekend.

DUDE!!! 59 BUCKS!!???!!

I shopped around and found Stormer to be the lowest at $74.99. Nice LHS you have there! :eek: :D

[MrHorspwer]

http://www.prop-shop.com/dir/ordering.html

Here ya go. Their catalog is on one of the previous pages. They can order pretty much anything.

I was actually as shocked as you guys on the price. They're really good on prices, so I figured somewhere around $65 or so. I was blown away when he said "I can go $59 on those".

[TC3 Benjammin]

Thanks for the link dude. For some reason, I thought Horizon-distributed parts/kits couldn't be sold below the retail price. For example, I've NEVER seen a Losi kit below the retail price. I bought an XXXT MFE and it was $249.99 EVERYWHERE.

Who the hell knows. :p

[metalry101]

I've seen the XS3 for 209.99 before. Anyways, the shocks are distributed by Dynamite, so maybe that's why. I don't know if they're exclusively distributed through Horizon or not.

[k_sw31]

Ok, reading the last few pages it sounds like I should really consider getting some new shocks. I looked at the dynamite ones but don't like them because they are threaded. Then I found the big bores, the price looks good, will they work good?

Link: https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TRX4962

[Lord Radeon]

Why don't you want threaded shocks? :confused:

[k_sw31]

Every time you have to make and adjust ment you need to do four at a time, pre load spacers are way easier to deal with, plus those threaded shocks are made by losi. ;)

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Then I found the big bores, the price looks good, will they work good?

I had a set of big bores on my Stampede, best shocks I've ever owned. They look good, and are really smooth. I've had them for 2 years, never rebuilt, still smooth as the day I got them:D

[MrHorspwer]

pre load spacers are way easier to deal with

Why can't you just thread the shocks all the way up and use the spacer? Or thread them down, insert a spacer, then thread them back up?

[k_sw31]

I could but I would rather just not buy losi shocks. ;)

(not a losi fan) :p

[anothermbdusted]

hello everyone,
i just got a emaxx and would like to know some things about suspension arms.....ive been looking into a few companies like great assembly,fastlane,integy
GA is 265$
integy is 295$
fastlane is 299$

the above is for everything like towers,arms, bulks and in the case of integy the gear boxes also...let me know what the cons if any of these sets please thank you

[Lord Radeon]

If you want cheap arms, buy NOVA machining arms. They're the toughest Al arms out there and they're $200 a set i believe.

[Soya v1.1]

I've never broken a suspension arm under normal circumstances, so I stick with the RPM stuff.

[Lord Radeon]

Same here. I've never broken a pro-line tower either. Plastic is WIN.

[Soya v1.1]

SHE LIVES!!!!!!

[Soya v1.1]

Here's another shot. Oh, and Lord, that stuff you said about the quality batts, I fully believe you now:)

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
Here's another shot. Oh, and Lord, that stuff you said about the quality batts, I fully believe you now:)

Nice looking truck. Which motor is that? I've got the C50.

Now if you convert those stick packs to side-by-sides, you'll be even happier. The juice flows out the side-by sides even better. :)

[metalry101]

I run the entire Pro-Line kit, and I've never broken anything in it. Much lighter and cheaper. However, if you really want to go aluminum, I suggest Rockhoundz. A complete set (8 arms) is $144.46 right now, and I think the shipping is free on any order over 50 bux, so that would obviously qualify. If you still wanted alum. towers, you could buy them from another company, as Rockhoundz doesn't make them. Personally, I would reccomend the Pro-Line stuff because it's very tough, and very adjustable.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by JonDax
Nice looking truck. Which motor is that? I've got the C50.

Now if you convert those stick packs to side-by-sides, you'll be even happier. The juice flows out the side-by sides even better. :)

It's a B50 8S. I dunno about the side by sides, I can bbarely control it now:p

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
It's a B50 8S. I dunno about the side by sides, I can bbarely control it now:p

Yep, I know what you mean, me niether!:p Also, I forgot--in your chassis the stick packs fit better than side-by-sides anyway. Pretty cool motor, huh? I'm pretty impressed by the Hacker so far--makes a really cool noise in my truck. Makes me feel like I'm really playing with power!!
--JD

[BuggyBoy]

well here are a couple pics of my emaxx
its getting a lehner 1930/7 and a lehner/bk 18120
(waiting on my order yet from rum runner)
also my Supermaxx super shocks are on the way here :)
http://www.jasonsstuff.com/pics/Eracer/Eracer%20007.jpg



anybody wana race ? :)

[Soya v1.1]

Yep, Hacker is awesome:)

[anothermbdusted]

well it looks like i get my bonus next week and im going to go shopping for the Emaxx. looking into that xtream chassi but is it longer then stock? how much did the one above cost the clear one and where is it located at?and are integy parts any good at all?cause im looking at the bulks and towers

[Lord Radeon]

Yes Soya, I tend not to talk with my head up my arse. Next time, don't talk back with yours up there ;) :cool: :rolleyes: . Nice truck.

AnotherMBdusted: the Xtreme is stock length. If your going to get a mild brushless system, or stay with stock motors, this is the chassis for you. Handles like a dream and extremely low CG. If your getting into a higher-powered set-up the Bomb-Proof chassis is the one for you. (Thats the clear one) It's about 2 inches longer then stock and that helps everything when your running higher power. Their webby is www.bomb-proofproducts.com

I think the chassis sells for ~$100 with the braces. Driveshafts are extra

[rcfreak2003]

God if i had a truck like that i wouldnt race it. i'd have it in a glass case and just use it 4 a show truck. do u really race that?:eek:

[BuggyBoy]

this isnt the torpedo this one he just came out with (i got it about week before he started selling them) its called the race bomb. this one is strickly a racer. and no the xtreme chassis isnt longer. and i also think that one is weak ive heard of alot of people breaking them running brushless.

bombproof makes 2 chassis the torpedo and the race bomb this ones the race bomb. which is made more for racing. if you are a basher stick with a torpedo saves ya $50 and is stronger. but this one lowers the CG by alot the center skid is also the battery mount. and all of bombproof products chassis are 2" longer then stock.

and yes you have to buy the driveshaft he sells made by rc alloys. beefy shaft !!

i will be turning around the transmission to. when i get some time.

my brushless should be here in a week or 2 hopefully.

but this truck RTR costed me about $2200. pretty nice truck though cant wait to race the tmaxx boys down here that thinks nitro beats anything !!

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Yes Soya, I tend not to talk with my head up my arse. Next time, don't talk back with yours up there

Ouch, lay the frick off.

[Lord Radeon]

Buggyboy: Me likes. Time to put the XTreme up for retirement. The only reason I didnt get the bomb-proof was CG. With the race bomb, the batts are low like the Xtreme. Time to sell it.

Xtreme Carbon Chassis kit with straps and cups. $60 shipped in the USA if anyone's interested.

[Lord Radeon]

I'll also sell a set of my pro-match 3300s. They've got a little shrink wrap wear, but are in fine shape. I've only put about 30 runs on them. $70 shipped takes the set. (Side by sides with deans plugs)

[anothermbdusted]

thank you guys for the info...i think i have decide on getting the race bomb chassi like the one above as i very rarly ever go bash and mainly race....my so called bashing after a race is running it on the street for a while to drain the batteries....as for the rc alloys drive shafts i had them on my SABR dominator and they are second to none..they are excellent and never bend no matter what...now if i could decide on a BL systme for it id be happy...i just want something reliable and that goes around 40,45...i race nitro trucks and well the stock ones dust them in the short runs but in the 50 feet or longer the nitros have the advantage and well i dont want that:)

[jeepboy109]

i got my maxx a week ago and all ready have:
1.a broken body post from rolling on the pavement
2.a broken skid plate i hit a curb
3.a broken a-arm i broke it going off a 1 foot drop off
4.a sanyo 2400 rc6 sell pack is leaking

im only 12 and new to this hobby and money doesan't come easey so it will be awhile saving up for the parts im getting all rpm bodypost/shocktower all 8 rpm a-arms and the stock skid and can send back the leaking packs

[MrHorspwer]

Story of my life right here. Both the parts I ordered, Dynamite shocks and a set of WideMaxx axles to replace my bent ones, are backordered!

My LHS ordered the axles through Great Planes and the shocks through Horizon.

Great Planes says mid-May for the axles... but Horizion won't answer any of my e-mails.

:mad: to Horizon!

OK... done venting. You can go back to whatever you were doing now. Sorry for wasting your time:p

At least it's supposed to rain for the next week or so. Takes the sting away knowing I couldn't drive it anyway.

[redneckracer]

i am definatly on a budget here, so keep that in mind...
::needed::
new steering servo and servo saver
7 cell high capicity batteries
new charger for the batteries
new reciever(antenna is frayed and screwed up, 5 foot range at max, is it possible to just replace the antenna?)
::where can i fid it all and how much is it gonna set me back?::

[Lord Radeon]

MY A-List for bduget buying

Servo & Saver

Hitec 645MG servo with Kimbrough #134 servo saver
(Both can be found at www.stormerhobbies.com)

7 cell batteries... for high-cap I recommend pro-match's assembled matched ($96 a pair) or unmatched ($80 a pair) GP3300 EMaxx pairs

http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm

For a budget charger, Try the Pirahna digital. ($50) I don't own one, but several guys at the track have boug ht them and they work EXCELLENT. If you don't charge a lot of batteries, consider the MRC Super Brain ($45) as well. But be wary - it's known to overheat.
(Pirahna - www.horizonhobby.com)
(Super Brain - www.stormerhobbies.com)

New stock receivers can be had on EBay for ~$15. Or you can solder the same length of wire to the circuit board inside the receiver if you have good solder skills (Find the length it came with and the wire guage from the manual, go to radio shack for the wire, they should have it)

Good luck and have fun

[redneckracer]

thanx, i think i will have to hold out on the batteries and charger for a while, the pirranah looks good. i may have to ask for a little more help later on takeing the diff apart to put in spools, but that will come later, thanks again

[redneckracer]

another option for the servo saver could be the proline preformance steering kit right? i could just get an aluminum servo arm and use that kit and it would work the same as a normal servo saver correct?

[Lord Radeon]

That's correct.

[super_maxx]

Hello guys

Just got on here you welcome my new member of the family!

this IS Project BAD-MAXX!!!

I got it in a trade she gots some hopups big joes and some odd stuff all around!


Heres a pic

[Soya v1.1]

Those tires are ridiculous.

[super_maxx]

yes your right!!

But im the kind of guy that Lives ridiculously!:cool:

[Skribble]

Anyone try the Gorilla Maxx chassis yet? I'm thinking about making a Racing E-Maxx with a Hybrid chassis, and the G-Maxx and Race Bomb chassis are my picks. I'm going to be making something similiar to this:

http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/2543058.jpg

[redneckracer]

HPI tires rock on the E!! My friend has an HPI savage, so while we wre bashing at my house we decided to trade....his savage handled and accelerated much better with the maxx tires while the torquy E loved the extra traction....if you do more bashing than racing then the savage tires are great, i still run my mashers for racing as the trade was permanant since we both enjoyed the new tires......i got a Hitech(sp)645 and the proline preformance sterring kit and fixed the antenna wire last night, i had the extra wire hiding in my uncle's work shop so that was a quick free fix.....truck handles 100 times better with the new servo and can turn the mashers from full left to full right fairly easy(the savage tires used a lil more tugging) i might be able to post some pick of the full duct tape body i made(tough as everything, 7 layers of duct tape is industructable)

[anothermbdusted]

ok i havent 100% decided but i think im going to go with the great assemblies suspension set and get mip cvds for the axles and if i dont like how the stock chassi handles ill get the torpedo chassi( i like the thought of not being able to see the electronics under the body).....

[Lord Radeon]

Only thing I have against the gorilla is the weight. It's a solid chunk of Al so it HAS to be heavy. But the design and craftsmanship IMO is awesome.

[Skribble]

It's about 3 oz. heavier than stock with all the stuff. :confused: http://gorillamaxx.com/gmaxx_chassis.html | http://gorillamaxx.com/photos/gmaxx_strip-scale.jpg

Another thing, I'm probably only going to be running two 4-cell or two 5-cell batteries since the races here only last like 5 minutes so that could compensate for the extra weight ..

I remember KerryG had his E-Maxx turned into a look-a-like 1/8 buggy with wing and all. Does anyone have that picture saved on their hard drive? :confused:

[Lord Radeon]

Racing, you'd be lucky to see that kind of runtime. And what type of power plants are you using? I BARELY squeeze 8-9 minutes out of a LIGHT brushless full-out racing on 12 cells.

Running 8 or 10 cells, I'm guessing your running a brushed setup... but I don't know if a dual brushed will make 5 minutes on that few cells.

[metalry101]

So has anyone else seen those new Hot Bodies tires? They're freakin HUGE. They're as wide as the Big Joes and about 3/4 of an inch taller. If you thought the Big Joes on Supermaxx's maxx were ridiculous, wait till you see those tires on my Maxx. They cheaper than the Pro-Line ones too. Kinda heavy, but I can gear down, so it's all good.

[Skribble]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Racing, you'd be lucky to see that kind of runtime. And what type of power plants are you using? I BARELY squeeze 8-9 minutes out of a LIGHT brushless full-out racing on 12 cells.

Running 8 or 10 cells, I'm guessing your running a brushed setup... but I don't know if a dual brushed will make 5 minutes on that few cells. Titans ..

KerryG (WildHobbies) had his E-Maxx look identical to a 1/8 Buggy with wing and everything, and he was running 7 cells and I think the heats were like 5-8 minutes.

My track layout is pretty small with tiny jumps so I don't really need that much power. I'm considering the Xtreme again though because of the size and weight.

[Skribble]

Here's another example .. UltimateTraxxas. :o

http://ultimatetraxxas.com/i/emaxx/1_8thScaleSetup_full.jpg

[metalry101]

That's gotta be the ugliest thing I've ever seen. I bet it gets around a track pretty quickly, but seriouly, 1/8 buggies are badass, why not just buy one of them? Hell, the Ofna LX Pro is only 300 RTR, and it's got the .25 in it. Why not just buy it and mod it to make it a better racer? Cheaper than that thing, and good looking too. Oh well, to each his own I guess.

[Skribble]

Our track is too small for 1/8 scale buggies, so they only race them oval, and that's a waste. :( :mad:

That's why I was considering the E-Maxx .. Except the body would be more flush with the chassis and the A-arms would be level with the chassis, a 1/8 wing would be on the back, Probably 4 1/8 scale shocks, and shorter front plastic skid plate. I could race it offroad too probably, with the T|E-Maxxes/Hybrids. :)

Edit: Woot, got a pic. of the Buggy Maxx. :)

http://www.wildhobbies.com/news/wildhobbies/altered_e-go/truck_side.jpg

[Lord Radeon]

Well if you do end up going the Xtreme route, I'll sell you mine for $60. It's in fine shape

[Skribble]

I don't have any money right now, I need to sell my XXX first and some other stuff too, lol. Why are you getting rid of the Xtreme?

[Lord Radeon]

ATM I need the cash for my 1:1 car, But in the future I want to get a chassis with longer wheelbase and drop a much more powerful BL system in my maxx. Won't have time to race the maxx between now and then, so I figured I'd go ahead and sell it.

[metalry101]

Lord, I totally know what you mean on needing money for a full-size car. I'm starting college this year, and ya, a car that's mine would be nice. I'm going broke right. I wanna get the MX-3 and the new Hot Bodies tires for my Maxx. Hopefully it'll run soon.

[TeAm hYpE]

Hi everybody I just got the Emaxx today and i love it

[Soya v1.1]

I love technical stuff:D
Oh, and I ordered some IMEX Swamp Dawgs, can't wait. Also, the mud pit I'm making is roughly 12 feet long, and 2 feet wide:D

[Lord Radeon]

12 feet makes for one muddy truck. The best are construction sites after it pours rain. Pure muddage. BE sure to wrap your goods :cool:

[Soya v1.1]

No construction sites around here, so I gotta make due. I've got balloons over the electronics, then the shower cap trick. Works suprisingly good, as long as I don't completely submerge it;)

[540ismiley]

I have an Emaxx with blue aluminum ladder bars and center skidplate, 2 duratrax esc and the original radio comes with it. Looking to sell it for $225. email me. i use paypal
josh
Joshsmiley965@hotmail.com

[Soya v1.1]

Um, I got a problem. I have a stripped wheelnut, and it's completely round. How do I get it off?

[TeamMishap]

Got my single Warrior 7018/Basic 4200 running today. Allay-ju-ja. Not quite as fast as I imagined, but it's geared 12/70 so I figure I have more room to grow.

I musta set something up wrong because it won't pull a wheelie and all I've heard is that they are wheelie machines with BL setups.

Overall, I like it...can't wait to try it on my Evader. hehehe

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
Um, I got a problem. I have a stripped wheelnut, and it's completely round. How do I get it off?

Um, pliers?

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Got my single Warrior 7018/Basic 4200 running today. Allay-ju-ja. Not quite as fast as I imagined, but it's geared 12/70 so I figure I have more room to grow.

I musta set something up wrong because it won't pull a wheelie and all I've heard is that they are wheelie machines with BL setups.

Overall, I like it...can't wait to try it on my Evader. hehehe

What mods have you done to your truck, what type of batteries are you using, and how are your batteries wired/what type of plugs?

[UE SuperMaxx]

Hello all. I am buying a E-Maxx and Unlimited Engineering's EXT Chassis and EXT Suspension kit. I haveone cncern though, will the stock motors be up to the task of moving all that aluminum? I was looking to go BL, but I cant seem to find a goos set up. I was looking to spend no more than $400, if anybody could suggest something, it would be appreciated. :)

[Lord Radeon]

Stock motors wont have a problem. That setup is a little more then a pound more then stock which is no big deal, just gear your truck down one tooth on the pinions (stock is 18/66). But IMO there are MUCH better chassis' out there then the UE chassis for a LOT less money.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Hmm...the UE is not best? I want the strongest thing possible. I want to use the EXT arms too, so I dont know if some things will not work. What do you reccomend?

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
Um, pliers?

No dice, can't get enough grip. I dunno what to do:(

[redneckracer]

take some ca glue and a meat skewer(wooden) apply a drop of ca to the end of the skewer after you cut it off flat, then press it onto the stripped wheel nut, let it dry and pull it out

[Maxxcrazy]

take a lighter and burn off the nylon locking part of the lock nut. then just loosen it with your hand

also in that pic you posted, it looks like a bunch of puddles. my pajero has gotten way muddier and in case you dont know, the pajero has the wheels inside the body.

[Lord Radeon]

Strongest chassis on the market is the Bomb-proof Torpedo chassis. www.bomb-proofproducts.com

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Maxxcrazy
also in that pic you posted, it looks like a bunch of puddles. my pajero has gotten way muddier and in case you dont know, the pajero has the wheels inside the body.

That's because where I live, it's all clay. And clay doesn't make good mud:(

[anothermbdusted]

well i got my bulk heads last night and put them on looks good...i got the GA heads with braces... i get to run it finally today yeah .....
hey does anyone have a manual here that i can get a copy of? if so please let me know as i can use one thanks

[Lord Radeon]

I think traxxas has PDFs of the manual on their website

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Stock motors wont have a problem. That setup is a little more then a pound more then stock which is no big deal, just gear your truck down one tooth on the pinions (stock is 18/66). But IMO there are MUCH better chassis' out there then the UE chassis for a LOT less money.

The Bombproof chassis looks pretty nice, and the extra length probably helps in stability too, but how well do the batteries stay in there? I have an Extreme chassis now(the one that sits like the stock chassis, not the one with lower batts), and the batteries fly out of there all the time. I like that the UE chassis has side rails and a cupped area for the batts to sit in. Also, after buying the UE diffs and putting those beauties together, I have a hard time believing anything is better/nicer than UE stuff. :D Really, really nice stuff. Just beautiful, but pricey. I do like the idea of a non-conductive material for the chassis, though, so Bombproof might be the way I go.
--JD

[TeamMishap]

I AM NOT MEANT FOR THIS BL S***!

Had my 7018/4200 combo running great for two days. Having a blast. Today I hook it up to go play with my E, and I smell burning shrink wrap. MFing thing shorted at the battery wire. I should cancelled my order for this Lehner stuff when I had the chance. I'll probably be without a setup for half a year.

As Charlie Brown would say....UUUUUUUUGH!

[Lord Radeon]

Yeah, you have to be EXTRA careful with shrink wrapped controllers. I'd advise anyone who isnt running more then 12 cells to spend the extra $40 and get a hacker comp controller. Comes in a "standard" plastic ESC case isntead of shrink wrap

[Lord Radeon]

Jondax: The Battery area is recessed into the lexan so theres a bit on both sides covering it. I believe the batteries are held on with nylon straps, but dont quote me on that

[Maxxmtpro]

i have here a brand new Emaxx that has been opened but never used, you get everything you would as if you where to go out and buy one right now but more heres what you get

you get the RTR Emaxx (green)

2 team orion packs
1 duratrax timed charger
3 new blue skid plates FR C RR
1 Atomik body with pre drilled holes for the Emaxx also i made the bed carbon fiber
4 custom strobe lights flash (red/blue)
1 full can of motor cleaner
2 custom made bumpers rear is wheelie bar
will ship in original box

pictures are being developed and will be up soon

for more info or questions please contact me at polaris659@aol.com or IM me at polaris659

asking 370 B/o

[TeamMishap]

Is it really worth it to put the 5x8 bearings in the steering mechanism where there are bushings?

[Lord Radeon]

Yes, because bushings aren't as smooth as bearings, and will warp under extreme pressure whereas bearings wont

[Soya v1.1]

I hit a big rock going really fast. I no longer have second gear.

[egdinger]

Soya are you asking something, or just saying what you did. Well i ran me e into a curb going full speed. i no longer have a skidplate or chassie.

[Soya v1.1]

I just felt like saying. I've broken a chassis also. Jumped down 18 stairs:rolleyes:

[TeamMishap]

So how much of the $400 per child tax rebate are you using on your Maxx? Or am I the only one old enough to have them.

[MacII]

Hello,

I've been racing a new E-Maxx this season. I'm doing alright, running mostly stock with 14 cells. Only real upgrades I've done are to replace what breaks with stronger/better parts. So the first weekend out I replaced the bulkheads with metal replacements and I've added RPM shock towers on both ends. I also have racing tires and wide offset wheels. Oh, and I junked the stock servo for a super-deluxe Airtronics 200oz job (not cheap, but it has made a huge difference in performance.)

My question is regarding upgrading "smart". I've seen lots of guys dump piles of cash into their Maxxes but I don't know which parts one really needs vs which one simply wants. For example, it will cost about $150 to replace the plastic driveshafts with "MIP CVDs" - is that something one should do? Is it worth the costs? Why?

What other upgrades are wise to do for strenght and speed? I know all about brushless and I'm not ready to make that switch. Any tips would be appreciated.

One more thought, is there a FULL manual for the E-Maxx anywhere? The exploded view is OK but I wish there was a real manual telling you how to take it apart. I refer to the manual for my XXXT all the time. Heck I wish the E-Maxx was a kit so I could have learned while building.

Anyway, thanks for reading.

MacII

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by MacII
The exploded view is OK but I wish there was a real manual telling you how to take it apart.

Wait, you need a manual on how to take a maxx apart? You need serious help :p
You should try rebuilding a Bruiser tranny without a manual. I did;)

[TeamMishap]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by MacII
[B][QUOTE For example, it will cost about $150 to replace the plastic driveshafts with "MIP CVDs" - is that something one should do? Is it worth the costs? Why?
QUOTE]

Only reason I went with MIPs is because I've got the brushless bug. I've heard of people twisting up the stock sliders with the stock motors.

I've got the upgrade bug bad too:
- I got new rims because it was cheap and looked good.
- Got MIP CVDs all around because I'm going to play with BL.

What I want:
Hitec 645 MG servo: better steering $40
Torpedo Lexan Chassis: Longer wheelbase $100
MIP outdrive bone #1487: for above chassis $14
Hacker Master CAR comp controller: $244
Hacker B50-12S motor: $159
(as soon as my credit card company deals with RumRunner, I buy some quality BL stuff from a quality dealer)

I'll get chi-chi bulks, skids, etc. as I break stock stuff.

[Lord Radeon]

I've bought a lot of stuff from rumrunner, but lately even I'm starting to question them. My advice is not to deal with them for the time being.

[Soya v1.1]

Since we all depend on your advice;)

[Lord Radeon]

;)

[TeamMishap]

As far as Rum Runner is concerned...TAKE HIS ADVICE! LOL

[anothermbdusted]

soya v1.1: not all of us is perfect.....i know it was ment as a joke but it rubbed a raw spot is all.....i just got done getting a emaxx from a guy that said you dont need a manual to work on a emaxx.......lololololol he should be shot half the screws were the wrong size and in the wrong place and also he had the steering all screwed up no wonder why he didnt like it and it took a football feild to turn around......when i get the one from a person that is sending me the manual on maxxtraxx or my new one in the mail ill send you one or a photo copy of one if you want to send me your address or IM me and ill get it that way also... either way dont feel bad or out of place asking questions here about how to take something apart or wanting to look at a manual for reference.......if all else fails here goto maxxtraxx alot of the guys are very helpful there they run mostly BL systmes but its all the same and they can give you the advice you need for just about any upgrade or fix that you might consider...

[Lord Radeon]

The emaxx manual isn't much more then parts explosions sorry to say. But if you want one, ill snail mail you mine :-p

[quicksilver77]

Jon, I surely hope your not talking about me?

[anothermbdusted]

no remember i got three of them now!!!!! ones in the mail

[Lord Radeon]

Due to issues beyond my control I have to sell my maxx. :(. I need the money ASAP. Rolling chassis minus electrics $550 shipped. That is

XTreme 2-Deck Carbon Fiber Chassis
Supermaxx 1/8 Diffs in perfect shape
Supermaxx Servo Saver
Supermaxx Ti center drives
MIP CVDs at all four corners
Alum. Wheel hexes
Aluminum bulkheads+braces (only two races old)
Full losi shocks (4 on truck, will include the other four)
Gutted, lightweight racing tranny. First gear internals removed completely.
Heatsink motor mount.
Full Pro-line kit.
RPM front skid
Aluminum ladder braces
Three painted bodies (Race body - Trinity Reference Truck, two bashers - Hummer + Stock)
Custom 5 Cell AAA Ni-Mh RX pack with KO digital switch

Also selling
Duratrax Intellipeak Digital Pulse Charger w/ LCD - $60 shipped
Lehner Basic 4200 Motor - $75 shipped
Pro-Match MATCHED assembled GP3300 SxS cells. Two sets of 2 packs with deans ends. $70 each set shipped

This stuff is priced to SELL IMMEDIATELY. I need this money.
Let me know, and send all inquiries to pouncer7@swirvemail.com

Thanks

[Lord Radeon]

Forgot to mention the truck also comes with pro-line Maxx Mulchers on sportmaxx rims (strongest plastic out there) with 2-stage racer's edge foams. Pics here

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1446171&uid=812824&members=1

[TeamMishap]

What steering upgrades do you guys have (like bellcranks, not servos?)

I've been looking at the Proline one, but it says its for the T-Maxx only.

[Soya v1.1]

Man, I really want that 4200, but I have no money either:(

[TeamMishap]

Anyone running, or seen anyone run, a Torpedo Chassis?

Do regular length Maxx bodies look hack on the extended chassis?

[Lord Radeon]

Regular bodies look WAY hack on it. Dont come even close to the wheel wells. Extended bodies BARELY fit. The proline EXT F-350 is your best bet

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I'm about to purchase 2 E-maxxes, Identical and stock, with the stock radio and receiver. I am going to pick up high-torque stearing servos for each.

My question is, what cost effective high torque stearing servo should I purchase, that is the same brand/compatible with the stock radio system?

[TC3 Benjammin]

Everybody say it together!

Hitec 645MG!!!!!!

[Lord Radeon]

Hitec 645mg

[metalry101]

Hitec 5645

Same servo as the 645, except the 5645 is digital, and it costs a little more. It's a little more powerful, draws more juice, and has a ton more holding power. If you're on a budget, go w/ the 645, but if you've got the funding, go digi, it's better.

[Rustler Hustler]

Sorry to kind of switch subjects here, but i now own...

Wait for it...

The "Ultimate Emaxx Spyder" , obviosly the one built by the Jang...
Pretty exited about it! Picked it up for alot less than i thought too! Only 370 shipped, with some extra parts.

Anyone know how that Moldeltech BX5 setup is in an emaxx? (just one motor, not 2)

Peace,
Jordan

[Soya v1.1]

I thought it was very similar to the Hacker. If that's the case, you should be fine:)

[UE SuperMaxx]

My new maxx. Hop-ups are coming.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pdc176ef244f6f99c789a626987ea2f69/fc0a134b.jpg

[anothermbdusted]

team mishap: i just got done building my torpedo chassi and let me say that it changes the whole truck driving style WAY better then stock and well i dont know about bodies yet but i can tell you this it makes the stock body look like your putting a 1/12 scale body on a 1/10th truck..its about 2 inches shy of being perfect but a racer with the rear end cut up high like a prerunner and the front up high would look cool thats what im going to try out at least

[Lord Radeon]

The modeltech BX5 is a rebadged hacker/shulze system. It's a custom wound hacker 8s and a shulze 55ce controller. Weak controller for the motor, known to thermal a lot. 12v fan will keep you cool

[UE SuperMaxx]

So are Hacker BL's good?

[Lord Radeon]

Hacker motors are fine and reliable. The b50 series is known to pop cans open, but thats easily fixable. IMO there are much better motors if your buying new for the price. Used, if its a good deal you cant really beat it. Their BL controllers and service are top-notch.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
Everybody say it together!

Hitec 645MG!!!!!!

Just wanted to say thanks, and I'm sure i'll be back to this forum soon

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Hacker motors are fine and reliable. The b50 series is known to pop cans open, but thats easily fixable. IMO there are much better motors if your buying new for the price. Used, if its a good deal you cant really beat it. Their BL controllers and service are top-notch.


How are the C50's? I may pics some up later this month.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
Just wanted to say thanks, and I'm sure i'll be back to this forum soon

No problem! Hope you come back soon! ;)

[UE SuperMaxx]

Yes, please do come back. I would enjoy the comapny.

[Lord Radeon]

The C50 is today's average BL system. The can is nice, with machined heatsink and all, but it's basically just a B50 system in a new can. Decent power, decent runtime, very high quality build as far as bl goes. Can't go wrong with a c50

[UE SuperMaxx]

Would I be cool with 1 C50? or should I get 2? I'm looking to get 45+ MPH.

[Lord Radeon]

IF your looking for over 45 mph, then don't buy a c50. You'll need a B50 XL or a lehner 1940 series to do it... and around 16-18 cells.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Oh OK. Where can I get Lhners motors besides Rumrunner. I heard there wer eproblems with it lately?:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[TeamMishap]

Ordered my Torpedo chassis today. Got my E in three pieces waiting for the new lexan. Yahoo!! Gonna throw an extended F-350 bod on it with a simple paint job. Not going to get this in Reader's Ride like I did my Evader. LOL

Personal experience says stay away from Lehner controllers. My 7018 roasted after 2 runs. The hobby store I purchased it from is blaming me for the failure. My credit card company is hopefully working on a refund for me.

RCCA Monster Truck 2003 tests a daul C50 set up. Said it had a top speed of 43 mph!!! And that was BEFORE hooking up the second motor! It said "two motors was one motor too many [to] handle" I'll be buying the B50-12S with 3.17mm shaft and a Master Comp controller once my ordeal with the other brushless company gets resolved.

[Soya v1.1]

Gotta love Hacker:D

[Rustler Hustler]

Actually the one i got is the FWD only, so it comes with a Kontronik controller, anyone have any info here>>??

The thing i heard is that it does just fine on 12 cells, unless you use the brakes ALOT, then it shuts down...

I plan to run a fan over it anyhow, and good "How too's" on this>? Seems pretty easy, but there has to be a good way and a bad way to do it!

Peace,
Jordan

[Lord Radeon]

splice the 12v fan wire into the pos/neg battery connectors.

[Soya v1.1]

I used a seperate reciever pack just for the fan on the Emaxx. On the RS4 and such, I spliced it into the on/off switch.

[Rustler Hustler]

Are one of those radio shack 12v BL fans ok?

Also, how much does it take off the run time>? I wouldnt think too much, would it?

Peace,
Jordan

[Lord Radeon]

Radio shack 12v fan is what I use. They don't take off runtime, they add. They draw an unnoticeable amount of current, and the reduction in temperatures makes the electronics more efficient, thus they run longer.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

What parts are most likely to break on a stock E-maxx, so I can stock up. My dad hasn't been known to be the best driver.

I don't actually have my e-maxxs yet, so this may be a dumb question, but is there a place to mount a computer fan on the chassis, or are y'all mounting them on the body?

[Lord Radeon]

I just zip-tie my fan to the esc. Works great. For a stock maxx, stock up on: Bulkheads front and rear, and a few spare shock towers. Possibly driveshafts too

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Yet another question, When running medium to full throttle, about how long will an e-maxx run on 2 X 7.2 V NiMh 3300 packs?

Mostly want to know if they'll run more then 10 min.

[Soya v1.1]

Idk about 10, maybe 7 depending on aggressiveness. Rock crawling, my E lasted 37 minutes with really short gearing.

[TC3 Benjammin]

I got a question for you guys. I just ordered a set of PMR GP3300 7-cell packs. I run my truck hard in 2nd gear on a clay track. What're the chances of me frying the EVX? I've had no problems whatsoever with the EVX while running 6 cell packs.

I was excitied to buy these batteries, but I'm afraid I might be dooming myself by running them. Sending stuff off to be repaired sucks.

[TeamMishap]

I got my Torpedo chassis today. It's sweet!

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
I got a question for you guys. I just ordered a set of PMR GP3300 7-cell packs. I run my truck hard in 2nd gear on a clay track. What're the chances of me frying the EVX? I've had no problems whatsoever with the EVX while running 6 cell packs.

I was excitied to buy these batteries, but I'm afraid I might be dooming myself by running them. Sending stuff off to be repaired sucks.

slim to none if it runs fine on 12 cells. 14 cells only puts more strain onthe power caps, which are in all honesty good to around 18 cells. It just adds heat, which the EVX is self-protected from. Even with the added stress, my old EVX was flawless. Shouldnt be an issue

[TC3 Benjammin]

Well, this is ironic that's for sure! My EVX stopped working last night. I put my batteries in, flipped on the power, had steering, but no throttle. The EVX light came on. I re-programmed it, to no avail. Took it apart - no unsoldered wires.

What could be wrong? I tried everything. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

[TC3 Benjammin]

Anyone have a working EVX they want to sell me? Please?

:)

[TeamMishap]

Here's a pic of my new Torpedo Chassis. This is one long chassis. I haven't run it yet. I still haven't figured out how I want to layout the electronics.

The stock body is waaaay short. (laughs) The far rear shocks barely rub up against what would be the tailgate.

Anyone know if there is any special way you need to drill Lexan?
I need to drill a hole in the chassis to put my GS Fiberglass antenna on.

[Lord Radeon]

Drill it very SLOWLY. Other then that, it's fine.

Tc3: Fried EVX :-p