Repairing my shocks...

[Ourumov]

The shocks on my old kyosho burns were not quite firm enough. i bought new springs, but due to the fact it's been 12 years since workign with them, I mistakenly changed the springs by going from the top which required me to open the shock tops. Now my shocks are very unresponsive with new "stiff" springs. Worse than they were before by far. Somethign is ovbiously wrong. They were an exact replacement so I know it's not the springs that are an issue.

To be more specific, the car does not rebound at all when I push it down. It does have a little sink when you place it down, but it doesn't flat out collapse. What should I look into as the problem? I would like to not have to buy new shocks altogether.

I saw this kit to "rebuild" the shocks:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXU724&P=V

These are the diaphrams
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU115&P=7

And this is the piston replacement.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXU857&P=V


Also could I get buy with just purchasing some o-rings and not the entire shock "rebuliding kit"? I've heard that replacing o-rings is a common thing. Nothing appears to be physically damaged unless shock oil has a bad effect on the plastic collars and pistons after 12 years. I'd imagine the rubber parts involving the seal are more important to concentrate on, but I'm a total newbie. The car wasn't ran but did stand on it's wheels for quite a long time.

Is my problem just with the oil and should I not mess with the o-rings at all, but rather just empty and refill the shocks? I would like the cheapest solution but also don't want to skimp on my suspension.


Basically I need a shock doctor, or shock doc if you will...

All help is GREATLY appreciated as always.

[LasagnaCat]

Not enough oil in the shocks... try redoing them before purchasing anything.

Check them by hand before you put the springs on or put them on the car... After you've assembled the shock(s), push the shaft all the way in and if you don't get ANY rebound there's not enough oil. If the shaft won't push all the way IN you have too much oil as a general rule.

If they seem to be leaking badly either now or after redoing them, then you should start looking into a rebuild kit.

[rocknbil]

Contrary to popular belief, shock oil is not supposed to provide suspensive qualities, that is what springs are for. Oil only controls the speed at which the shaft moves. If you get "rebound" from oil only the shocks are too full.

The correct method for filling any shock is to fill the chamber almost full, push the piston all the way into the chamber, then fill it up and cap it off. If you don't, when the piston comes up, there will be too much volume packed inside the shock and it's only got one place to go - out the seals, causing leaky shocks.

To answer your question, the rebuild kit usually consists of all the little snap thingies, spacers, and whatnot that hold the o-rings in place and it's probably a good idea to replace them too. If the shocks slide easily without the springs on them, the problem is definately either a) one related to the springs as you initially thought, or b) you are tightening the shock mounts too tight and they are binding up on the shock tower or a-arms, there's supposed to be enough play to allow them to rotate freely.

[nitrofun]

just get the rebuild kit because the o-rings are done, and most likely a good idea to replace the collars and the seals too, its only a few dollars to get a rebuild kit.

[Ourumov]

Originally posted by nitrofun
just get the rebuild kit because the o-rings are done, and most likely a good idea to replace the collars and the seals too, its only a few dollars to get a rebuild kit.

How do you know the 0-rings are done? i like lasagna bill's idea to try oil first before I shell out 20 per shock on the rebulid kit. Not to mention another 20 on the pistons and 8.95 on the diaphrams. That's 49 bux...

Thanks for the good advise on refilling then rocknbill.

[Ourumov]

Originally posted by Ourumov
How do you know the 0-rings are done? i like lasagna bill's idea to try oil first before I shell out 20 per shock on the rebulid kit. Not to mention another 20 on the pistons and 8.95 on the diaphrams. Add the 20 spend on springs, and that's $69. A new set of shocks is $39, or $79 all around.

Thanks for the good advise on refilling them rockknbill.

[Ourumov]

there's an edit went bad :rolleyes:

[Ourumov]

Originally posted by rocknbil
b) you are tightening the shock mounts too tight and they are binding up on the shock tower or a-arms, there's supposed to be enough play to allow them to rotate freely.

I don't understand what you mean by this. Do you mean the screw that I bolt onto the shock tower. I dont' understand what you mean by shock mount becuase that specific term isn't applied to any direct piece in my manual.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Ourumov
I don't understand what you mean by this. Do you mean the screw that I bolt onto the shock tower.

Yes, that's what I meant. :D

The bolt or screw that holds the tops and bottoms of the car. I have seen some scenarios where there's no spacer, or the spacer has been crushed by overtightening, and the shock does not move freely. Make sure it is just a little loose so it can "swing" easily on the bolts.

A shock rebuild kit for $20? That is a bit much! If that's the case I would just go for the o-rings, usually a rebult kit is only $6-8.

[Ourumov]

9.99 a piece, not bad for a 13 yr old car i guess....

I didn't know you were supposed to have a little give on them. I was careful not to tighten them to the point of squashing the spacers, but I did tighten them pretty well. Well i'm off to buy o-rings and oil. That should do the trick. I'm thinking oil only will do it I'm gonna try that first.

thanks bill, u rock!