Tamiya TXT-1 v3.0

[smallman28]

The original idea was that I was going to use a set of Deans connectors to do as you suggest and have leads coming off each motor connecting to the single set of wires coming off of the ESC.
The only thing is now I have seen the Deans connector the area on which to solder two sets of motor wires does not seem very big and I was trying to think of a way to just connect one set of wires to it instead,hence the picture.
What size wire would you suggest in any case?
Something like this?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUE30&P=0

Or would the smaller suffice?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUE28&P=0

Thanks

[krisI.925]

if your soldering in series best thing to do is just wire the motors with no connecters. Just hard wire them together. Its easier and more efficiant.

[BigBadTahoe]

I thought the series idea isn't good because of lack of power? I thought it would only equal the power of one motor from 2 motors? Although 2 motors in paralell will run 1 pack down pretty fast wouldn't they?:confused:

[krisI.925]

when it comes to the TXT-1 the best thing to do is wire in parallel. The stock motors are pretty good with only one pack. But depending on what motors and ESC you use your run times can be pretty low. But you can do things like run your motors at 0 timing and using a ESC with high efficiancy. Also you can wire your batteries in parallel to get more run time. Or you can do what I did and get a BL motor.

[BigBadTahoe]

I will be using the stock motors for now since I have heard they provide good torque, and a Super Rooster Esc. I was going to do a series like they did in the MT edition Mag. with that yellow hummer TXT-1 did anyone see that? I thought it was a good idea for rockcrawling and long run times?:confused:

[krisI.925]

i have seen that. That truck is using much stronger motors than the motors you are using tho. I would personaly still wire the stock motors in parallel because in parallel they still dont provide ample power in my opinion.

[BigBadTahoe]

Good point krisI.925 I was thinking of that possibility. So if he would of wired in parallel it would of been to fast for rock crawling right? I think I got everything figured out pretty well now. Only thing is if I plug my 4ws servo in my JR's 3rd channel slot it will only work when I press the button on my radios handle correct? If so does it seem like a better idea than a Y harness for one channel?

[egdinger]

Dub thats not how it works, it wouldn't do any thing unless you ste it to, but for the button it is two point mode, you would want to mix it to the steering chanel.

[Anthony]

Look here and decide what you want your txt-1 to do.
seires for torque and parralle for speed and short run times.

http://www.teamnovak.com/How_to/Dual_motor/dual_mot.html

[BigBadTahoe]

egdinger I didn't realize it would only go all the way to the right or left, I thought if you set the JR Xr3i 3rd channel up for 4ws, when you press the 3rd channel button it would mix the with the steering channel but I guess not. I will use a Y harness instead. As for wiring it I'd think parrallel would be the best way to get top performance out of the truck wouldn't it? I mean if you run in series it wouldn't give your more torque it would just decrease topspeed and have more low speed driving performance. Someone said series wireing will make the 2 motors only have as much power as 1 motor would in parallel, is that true? I almost have my truck completely together so I need all your comments quick!

:D

[smallman28]

In its simplist form.

Series wiring,longer run times lower speed.
Paralell wiring,shorter run time,higher speed.

[egdinger]

you don't need a y-harness, you can mix the third chanel to the steering chanel inside the radio, just no so it is turned on and off by the button. I'm 90% sure of that, still trying to figure it all out.

[smallman28]

I was gong to use a Hi-tec 700BB servo for steering is this okay
as I was going to run a Super rooster and use the BEC function on the receiver as I didn't want to use a seperate battery pack for the radio gear.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN597&P=7

Also does anyone know the wiring layout for Hi-tec servos as I was going to pair it with Futaba radio gear and the only Hi-tec's I can get in the UK don't have the J type connector so I would have to do a bit of resoldering.

[Janders]

black=black
red= red
yellow=white
Is that all you needed?

[smallman28]

Originally posted by Janders
black=black
red= red
yellow=white
Is that all you needed?

It is indeed,I thought that's what it was,just nice to get another opinion:)

[BigBadTahoe]

I set the 3rd channel to mix the steering for the rear to 100% left and right, is this all I had to do? Does it work all the time or just when the thumb button is pressed or aren't you sure about this? I am going to wire in parallel I guess for the most torque and speed possible, unless you like long runtimes why would anyone sacrafice the speed and power? :confused:

[krisI.925]

anyone know if its the Xfactors front or rear drive shaft that fits the TXT-1

[smallman28]

With all the older posts I have been reading I am getting a little worried now that my eventual set up may be a little insane!
I will be running two 14 double Reedy Pulse R's with a SR ESC,does that seem a bit excessive,would it be a good idea to gear it down a little from the stock pinions?
Difficult I know but what sort of projected run time should I get with a single set of 3000's?

[Hairball]

That depends on how you drive it.

WOT the entire time will give you like 5 mins.

Conservative putting around the yard will be more like 10 - 15.

Slow rock climbing can give you up too 30 mins if your geared right...

[Janders]

smallman
The Super Rooster is only rated for 2 X 15T's in parallel, and running in series would be pointless. I'd be careful, especially with the load big tires and reverse/braking of a MT puts on the ESC.
the SR is an expensive ESC to smoke..

[smallman28]

Originally posted by Janders
smallman
The Super Rooster is only rated for 2 X 15T's in parallel, and running in series would be pointless. I'd be careful, especially with the load big tires and reverse/braking of a MT puts on the ESC.
the SR is an expensive ESC to smoke..


Yeah,I know,but apparently it will go to 14T's okay and I will be fitting a cooling fan above also.
One another quick point,I only have the one motor at the moment,as the other is on back order,but do I need to connect the second motor the opposte way round (polarity wise) to the first?
I have just been trying to get my head around it looking at the motor plate with just the one motor and pinion fitted and the spur gear on it's shaft.
Oh and by the way the SR works out to the equivilant of $190 when you buy it in the UK!

[Janders]

I don't have a TXT, so I'm not sure if one motor spins reverse rotation or not. If one does, make sure that you not only flip the +- wires, but rotate the endell(aka retard the timing to the equivalent of the forward motor) in opposite direction for the reverse motor.

[Janders]

I noticed when I put a cooling fan for my Rally car that All I could find were 12V and a few 9V fans. The 9V fan I used moved enough air to cool when I ran it off of the 'battery' connection for the reciever, that way it turned off with the ESC, with no need for another switch. If I were you, however, I would run the fan power wires off of the power switch, so you get 7.2V instead of 4.8V.

[egdinger]

NO the motors are to turn the same direction, it would be pretty ugly if you spun one motor the other direction.

[Janders]

Disregard all the above info about timing and reverse stuff....some of us poor souls with lesser dual-motor monsters have to deal with turning our endbell;)

[smallman28]

I can't seem to get on with the Hitec 700BB servo I got the other day.
I think it is down to it's sheer size in that in puts the steering linkages in some funny(?) angles and they seem to catch on a lot of things and then it stresses the servo and makes the servo saver slip slightly on the shaft and it's a pain to keep undoing all those screws to take it back off and put it straight!
I am going to go back and get the 645 which is what I should have done in the first place but didn't have the patience to wait for it to come back into stock.
You folks dont have any steering problems do you,I think it's my fault caused by that bad choice of servo:(

[Janders]

Fuataba servo savers and arms won't work on a Hitec Servo( they'll fit, bu will slip)
Futaba/Most servos = 23 spline
Hitec= 24 spline
I had this problem with my MT, constantly having to tighten and glue the servo saver and arm because I used a Futaba arm on my Hitec servo.

[smallman28]

Originally posted by Janders
Fuataba servo savers and arms won't work on a Hitec Servo( they'll fit, bu will slip)
Futaba/Most servos = 23 spline
Hitec= 24 spline
I had this problem with my MT, constantly having to tighten and glue the servo saver and arm because I used a Futaba arm on my Hitec servo.

Oh, I didn't realise that.
I am using the original s/saver that came with the kit and it has only 2 options one is a Futaaba plate that sort of fits (but it does what you and I described) and another that doesnt fit at all.
Is it better then to keep the servo after all and maybe get a different servo saver?
I have just ordered a 645 and if thats the case it ain't gonna be any better.
It gets worse I have just tried the other back plate and it does fit after all!

[Janders]

If it has a metal 'spline drive' you couldn't possibly have hurt it.

I went and got a Hitec servo saver at my LHS, and the difference was night and day. I've run at least 10 packs through it withought having to go in to fix something...before I had to go in every pac or two to tighten something up.

Just make sure you get a servo arm/saver thathas a very stiff spring. BTW- If I remember right, all the Hitec arms/savers were red= easy to spot.

[smallman28]

The shaft does look a little fragile in places as it is only plastic but judging how tight a fit the s/saver is now compared to what it was it is unlikely to slip I think,hope!
Based on what you said I looked in the instruction book and Tamiya being perfectionists have pictures of both s/saver fittings so accurate that you can count the number of splines on each.

[smallman28]

Janders,thanks for the help,just been messing around for a while and it is now working sweet and it doesn't slip on the shaft.
The only slight problem now is some of the screws are a bit slack as I have taken them in and out that many times!

[Janders]

or a *tiny* drop of superglue on the threads

[BigBadTahoe]

I had a quick question about the screws in the tires. I put 2 screw in the 2 rear holes on the inside of the wheels and they still turn inside the tire, is this because they are not long enough? :confused:

[smallman28]

Originally posted by Janders
or a *tiny* drop of superglue on the threads

I read somewhere to use a bit of silicone sealent as it doesn't attack the plastic like threadlock can and isn't as permanent as glue.

[krisI.925]

3D i think your problem is that you didnt put the screws in the right place so there not going into the rubber. The tires should either not move or be shredded by the screws.

Also a good form of cheap lock tite is plumbing tape. Just wrap it around the threads of the screw.

[BigBadTahoe]

Ok thanks for the advise. I think the diffs which I put silly puddy in are making a kind of popping sound when there is a lot of force put on them, is that possible? If so I might be better of locking them with JB weld so they won't move at all, how will it effect the trucks power and performance?:confused:

[smallman28]

In the end I put a small drop of superglue into the hole first then let it dry before putting the screw in,seems to work okay.
I tried it on a spare piece first and you can still remove the screw okay afterwards.

[smallman28]

Got a battery for my spot lights at last!

[krisI.925]

I dont think its the silly putty itself doing that. I think it probably is a broken spider axle inside your differentials. My truck used to do the same thing and that was the cause of the problem.

small man where did u get those lights from and how many volts are they.

[smallman28]

Got them from Tower

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDZ56&P=7

As you can see they use a normal 9v battery,might try connecting them to the drive battery at some point and see what it does to the run time.
The P clips supplied are a little big for the front bumper so I put a few turns of electrical tape around the bumper first to make them a tighter fit.

[BigBadTahoe]

The only thing is that I didn't seem to of done anything to it to cause that to happen. You know just slow driving and crawling over and up stuff. Do you still think one of the spider metal gears in the diff are broke or stripped? They seemed so strong installing them and packing them with silly puddy, or does this kind of thing happen often with the TXT-1? Please more help!:confused:

[krisI.925]

The spider shafts are cast steel and it is possible that they were manufactered incorrectly causing them to break prematurly. When I broke mine I was only using the stock motors on a 6 cell pack and I only ran the truck about a douzen times. I dont think one of the gears has stripped because they are very strong but one of the shafts on the spider shaft has probably broke and caused one of the diff gears to un aline itself. Also something you should check for is if the diff housing has not become loose. You need to use a good amount of loctite on all those 3 screws because they can come loose easy.

Also what kind of shafts are you running. If your running the stock shafts chances are they could be causing it to happen to.

[BigBadTahoe]

I am running everything stock except for a SR Esc. I was thinking it was in the middle tranny because they did provide an extra set og plastic gears for it. Could this be possible? Also what is wrong with the stock shafts? If I need different ones where should I get them? Today I should be taking it apart and I'll have a look at the tranny and diffs, hopefully I'll be able to fix it unless theres something wrong with the shafts like you said, but what?

[hyperstang]

Well,
The diffs can be stripped, I have seen and heard it happen already in a TXT. There is like a clicking noise when you go forward and reverse. As for the spider shaft. That piece that sticks out of the diff housing and attaches itself to the drive shaft, I have snapped one already using the stock drive shaft. But my diffs are holding in there. I race my TXT competitively 2 times a month at our LHS. We hold Monster Truck Races on Sundays and my TXT is the only one out there along with the mod clods. I now switched my Drive shafts to the tmaxx/emaxx plastics ones.

I also installed a emaxx tranny running 2 13T doubles along with them, also have the thundertech battery cup holders to run the TXT on 2 battery packs. You need 2 in order to stay in this class of racing. One isn't good enough. My TXT is far beyond stock, but the diffs are holding on along with the shafts. Thanks to my man HUA, and his website rc4wd, If you need a hook up for anything for you monster truck needs, check out his website, cheap and plenty of great stuff....I got all mine from him, and I also got my XC2 clod kit from him also.

By the way he has awesome customer service, and is highly recommended, He gives his 100% attention to all his customers via email. he is giving us racers here in HAWAII a great hook up to some awesome stuff.

RACE ON...

Race on.

[BigBadTahoe]

I ended up taking both diffs apart and I repacked them with new silly puddy. The old silly puddy was grey and all screwed up so I just replaced it, after I looked at all the gears none of them where chipped or anything so I just relocktighted the screws that hold the diff case together and rebuilt the truck and now it run fine without any noise. This noise scared me so I took the screws out of my tires to they will slip when there is a lot of pressure on them so maybe it will help save my diffs. BTW what are some good after market places to buy stuff for this truck?:confused:

[hyperstang]

As mentioned above...

HUA is you hook up for TXT/Clod and just about any 4x4 monster truck. Check out his website...

www.rc4wd.com

I go through him for all my clod and TXT stuff.

Look him up..

Race on

[BigBadTahoe]

yea that is a good place to get stuff I was just wanted to know if there are any other places too, you know to keep all my options open.;)

[krisI.925]

anyone seen those new aluminum diffs. There suppose to be a lot lighter but i wonder how much good they actually do.

[krisI.925]

For those of you that are running motors in parallel how are you wiring your motors. Are you splinning the motor leads or using a type of Y harness or what?

[smallman28]

See page10,thats how I am doing mine anyway.

[krisI.925]

oh ok thanx thats how i was going to ahve mine wired

[smallman28]

I have got all the bits I need to finish off on order,now it's just a case of waiting for them to arrive.
Been waiting for the second motor for 2 weeks now,waiting for the Novak SR to arrive from Tower and ordered some connectors and heatsinks for the motors tonight.
Trouble is is that it has left me without enough money to get a battery(s) and charger at the moment,luckily someone at work has one he is going to lend me for a while as he doesn't hardly use his car,only thing is though it's a SLOOOOOOWWWWWWWW charger.

[hyperstang]

Well,
I am just about to order the Novak brushless for my TXT. I will post pics when it is installed. Anyone have a brushless in their TXT already and how is it? I run the emaxx tranny along with 2 battery packs....

Race on..

[Hairball]

Be warned. A person I know has burnt up THREE Novak Brushless motors in the TXT-1.

Novak is investigating a possible power / weight issue problem with this motor vehicle combination.

Get a Hacker C50 if you want power in your TXT-1.

[hyperstang]

AAAHHH man!!!

Are you serious...I just put in my order. Do you know where those articles are...Where can I order the Hacker and how much was it? Thanks

[Hairball]

The Hacker system will run you around $430.

www.stormerhobbies.com

Article on Novak self destruction...

http://pub143.ezboard.com/fjeepinatorsforumfromhellfrm11.showMessage?topicID =565.topic

[hyperstang]

Hey Hairball..
Would you happen to know, if you could combine brushless systems. For example using the Novak ESC along with the Hacker C50?

Race on...

[Hairball]

No. The Novak system is a sensored brushless system. The Hacker system is sensorless.

And the Novak system is rather wimpy compared to the Hacker C50. :)

[hyperstang]

WOW!!!!!

Well, I guess I'll try and work with the brushless on the TXT...Charlie from Novak emailed me and he did state that, better to use a fan on the ESC and to gear down on the TXT to help the ESC to keep from heating so quickly.

Well what about Vise Versa, getting the ESC from Hacker along with the Novak Brushless?

Thanks Hairball

[Hairball]

Your Welcome.

Again, no. The systems are totally different.

Novak's is a package deal too, where Hacker you buy the stuff seperatley. I've got a Hacker C50 in an E-Maxx. I'm going to try it in my TXT-1 here soon. That should be interesting.

Its got a TON of power. :D

[hyperstang]

Hariball...you da man..

I think I may go the Hacker Route....But looking at that much money....Compared to the Hacker the Novak looked very inviting. Well again, the Novak has been ordered and on its way, I might as well try it in my TXT and see what goes on there, If problems persist, I guess its going into a sedan for the sedan drags coming later this year at the local hobby store.

But I will be looking at stormerhobbies and their Hacker combo real closely. I guess you get what you pay for.

Hairball thanks again...

[Hairball]

Once again, you are very welcome.

The Novak system was designed for sedans and offroad racers, not monster trucks. Its a great deal for what it is. The ESC is the common thing to pop due to overheating. A fan may help, but I don't think it'll cure the problem.

[twintroy]

Hey guys !!!

Good news just got my new TXT and almost finished building it, but need some advice!

I have bought two 17 turn motors that i plan to run in it but my lhs doesn't have any ESC's in stock, in the interim i can either use an LRP v7.1, Novak GT7 or Tekin G10. Would these speedos work with the stock motors or do i stand the risk of frying them or
could i chance running the 17's with them?


any advice will be greatly appreciated !

Thanks

[BigBadTahoe]

when you get those motors working right tell us how it performs. I want to get some motors to replace the stockers because I want more speed and atleast the same torque out of this truck. Would the Magnetic Mayhems work well or should I use another type of motor? I wire in series because I like long run times so keep that in mind. Any advice will help! Thanks!:D

[smallman28]

Getting there slowly,got the SR today and that has been fitted.
The on/off switch was a bit small and had a job to mount it anywhere,in the end I glued it to the piece that is supposed to hold the much larger switch that comes with the radio gear and at least it's in a easy place to reach.
Heres a quick question,I was just going to solder the SR motor wires to the first motor,is it better to fit a connector somewhere to make it easier for maintainance.
If I were just to solder them on I would have to de-solder them each time to easily remove the top deck and get access at the motors/gearbox,what have you all done?

twintroy,if you wire in paralell you basicall half the number of motor turns.
So in your case that would be 17T+17T =8.5T ,get the idea.
Based on that you would need a ESC that could handle down to 8 turns,I dont think it's as simple as that though as most ESC's aren't able to run two motors in paralell,the likes of the SR and the LRP Pro1 being some exceptions.

[tl01boi]

since the thread for my tamiya jugg is basicly dead i was wondering if i could post here with you guys?

[hyperstang]

Jugg...TXT....

No problem

[tl01boi]

hey thanks man

[tl01boi]

btw can i use a txt1 ladder chassis on my jugg? i wanna make it into a txt 1 and was wondering how much it would cost me

[hyperstang]

You sure can use a TXT ladder chassis on your jugg. Should be a good fit. I even seen some clods with the TXT ladder chassis. Pretty neat..

Race on

[tl01boi]

thanks for the info anyone hav links on where i can get the chassis?

[hyperstang]

Hey there TL01boi..

How do you post your pics???

I have been trying but my bytes are to big..

Thanks

[tl01boi]

i first crop my picture to make it smaller then i post it

[tl01boi]

could i pull an e maxx with my car?

[hyperstang]

Well here is a try at my TXT 1 Racer from Hawaii....Body and paint care of a great graphics shop here in the islands and to my boy cronic01...

Check it out...

[BigBadTahoe]

What motors and esc are you using? Is there any other hopups you have that really make your truck better than stock? :confused: Nice truck by the way!;)

[tl01boi]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
What motors and esc are you using? Is there any other hopups you have that really make your truck better than stock? :confused: Nice truck by the way!;)

just curious where u talking to me or some1 else?:confused:

[hyperstang]

Well if you are talking to me about my TXT 1..

I currently run two 13T doubles along with the emaxx transmission. This is a must have if you plan on racing a TXT competetively. I currently race in bi-weekly races and I am up there with the mod clods. If you get the gear combo correct, your TXT will fly. Shift into second and watch this moster go even faster...

Simply awesome, also i run with big bore shocks..

Race on...

[tl01boi]

whoa e maxx tranny may i ask how hard it was to get it in there?

[Hairball]

go buy the mounts from www.rc4wd.com

ProjectTwin was the first to do this, like 2+ years ago. Its nothing new.

[hyperstang]

Yeah it is old news, but....
To some people who just got into the TXT, its all new to them. I found out about the emaxx tranny through blodclodd website, he made his own mounts and third servo was somewhere on the chassis, with Piano wire doing the shifting.

When I found out about HUA's website www.rc4wd.com

That's when I was totaly getting into my TXT and started the races with the clods....

But HUA is the hook up, for me at least, I don't anywhere else online for my monster truck needs....

Hairball..don't you have a mod TXT also??? or was it a clod???
Post some pics..

Race on..

[Hairball]

My TXT-1s (I had three, now I'm down to two) have been through a lot.

Check out www.txt1.net to see the work I have done to mine.

[krisI.925]

I have a brushless txt-1.
-4200 motor
-9918 esc (soon to have one i hope)

I can tell you right now that with that novak motor you TXT-1 isnt going any where fast. You will need 2 of them for your txt to have ample power. With big powerful trucks its a good idea to stay away from sensored motors and go with something thats around 70 amps atleast.

[hyperstang]

Yes....
Hairball informed me already about this, I plan on putting the Novak brushless into a sedan car and I can't wait to see what this would be like.

Until Novak unleashes their Novak brushless for Monster Trucks (according to Charlie from Novak, they are working on one right now) I think I'll wait on the Hacker system. Way to much money for me right now...

Race on..

[Hairball]

You know, dual Novak Brushles systems in a TXT-1 could be way cool.

The TXT-1 is already setup for twin packs, so going twin brushless would be easy, and about the cost of a Hacker System, and since you already have one Novak system, it wouldn't be too hard to get another.

[hyperstang]

That is True....HHMMMMM..

That is something to think about now....That would be nutz though...My problem is that right now I race the TXT with 13T motors and hitting jumps and landing and crushing cars and high speed turning, man I pop off the links right now when landing a jump, imagine a dual brushless set up...

But it is something to think about....

Thanks guys....

HHMMMMM!!!! New project....well see..

Race on..

[Hairball]

Upgrade your links to the Kyosho type that have a hold all the way through the metal ball type. Then use a long screw and a big washer forcing the ball link to stay on.

[krisI.925]

Hacker systems are not the only way to go. They are other alternatives such as lehner and shultz. Hacker is actually the most expensive of all the brushless brands. I got my original set up (4200 motor and a 7018 ESC) for only $220. Which is cheaper than the Novak set up. I suggest looking at lehner first because they have a much larger variety of power solutions than other brands. The US distrubuter is www.rumrunnerhobbies.com You can also try www.finedesignrc.com But even with a dual Novak set up your truck still wouldnt have a hole lot of power. Your only looking at about 280 watts of power. It would be a great set up for rock crawling but not much else.

[DCLXVI]

I'm thinking about buying a TXT-1 'cos I found a great price for it...(300 USD) here (http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/)

Problem are I don't know what ESC I sould buy, since I live in Sweden and have some problem getting it cheap unless I order fro that same company, also...they have a novak system but no extra motors, it would seem...I heard that one wasn't sufficent?

/DCLXVI

[Hairball]

Get a Super Rooster, and use it with stock motors. It won't be fast, but it go 4x4ing like its cool. :)

[DCLXVI]

Hmmm...I'm thinking about the Novak BL set-up...but I can only find the kit with one motor and the ESC, no extra motor available... :(

Here is what I'm thinking of buying :

TXT-1
2x 111 oz/in 0.11 sec Futaba servos
4x GP 6 cell 3300 mAH batts
1x Futaba 3PDF

Now I have to decide if I want to brushless or if I want to go regular...(I have a cousin that are probably going to order about the same stuff)...

I also have to decide on a charger that can handel atleast two batts at the same time...any suggestions?

Also, are there any uppgrades that you guys can recommend that I do from the start so I can order them at the same time as I order the truck...? (saves me alot of shipping, prices are atleast ½ of what I have to pay here, think that the TXT-1 kit alone are about 800-900 USD)


/DCLXVI

[Hairball]

I guess you TOTALLY missed the part of the thread that states that a Novak brushless system will burn up in a TXT-1... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[DCLXVI]

:o

Eh...ok...is there any other BL system? Hacker, isn't there atleast one more?

/DCLXVI

[ProjectTwin]

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00092.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00093.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00094.JPG

:D

[DCLXVI]

I think that a CF would break my bank somewhat... :(

[hyperstang]

Hey Project...
Is that the thunder tech TXT CF chassis or is that of another brand...let me know, cause that looks NUTZZZZ!!!!

Race on and please...keep us posted..

[hyperstang]

OOHH!!

I see it aint a TTR chassis, cause they run the batteries like their Ripper and Tremor....

Wow, awesome chassis though...I may go out and get one. Is that like Xtremes one?

[Hairball]

That looks like a custom chassis to me. Very nice Jason. :)

[smallman28]

I am certain it's the Xtreme chassis from RC4wd.com.


http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=26644625x15138&session=3f032c723b229091&L=eng&P=1700

[hyperstang]

Yeah...but does the Xtreme kit come with the battery plates, or is it just the two sides?

I'll ask HUA what exactly is included with the kit and it you would need to get those trays seprately.

Race on

[hua15]

Those are Xtreme Racing's new battery plate. I just havn't add them to my site yet.

-Hua

[hyperstang]

HUA,
Do you have them in stock though....I wouldn't mind trying that combo on my TXT1...

[Hairball]

I've got the original xtreme carbon fiber TXT-1 chassis. Its kewl. :)

[Hairball]

I wonder is the adjustable lower link mounts actually make a difference... :confused:

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball
I wonder is the adjustable lower link mounts actually make a difference... :confused:

You mean upper? :p

Yeah, these are the new Xtreme side plates. He also cut some battery plates, but I can't use my shifting servo for the E tranny to them. MaybeI can talk him into omitting the holes in one for me.

I'm going to make some graphite links and stuff for it tonight.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball
go buy the mounts from www.rc4wd.com

ProjectTwin was the first to do this, like 2+ years ago. Its nothing new.

Too bad I'm not the one making money off it today though.

Sometimes this hobby sucks. You try to be a "hobbyist" and show people easy mods then someone comes along and cashes in on your idea...

It sucks, but that's the nature of the hobby...someone sees something cool and decides to cash in on it.

It was the same story with the Kyosho 6.8mm 1/8th scale ball end idea...I did that in Korea before the TXT was available in the states...things I'd done ended up going into FAQs before the truck was even available here.

I thought about updating my site with things I've done to the TXT to tweak it, but everyone else has it on theirs already.

I still have some ideas that I haven't given away... ;) :p

[ProjectTwin]

Here it is, almost done.

Assembly went pretty smooth. The only problem I encountered was the holes for the cantilevers. These holes were all drilled to 3mm instead of 4mm. It was an easy fix with the drill press, and one I've already pointed out to Bruce just incase there are others with the same problem. The Xtreme upper link re-enforcement braces are on as well.

Since I don't use the stock bumpers or bumper brackets I use 4 "P" clamps (same stuff used for lower shock mounts) to hold the two outer ends of the upper chassis plates.

I carried the same old E tranny along with it's Traxxas Titans and 8/72 pinion/spur over to the new chassis, as well as Vertigo's center skids and New Era's underguard mounts and cantilevers. I'm still using the same Kyosho 1/8 scale balls ends that I originally installed back in Korea. Steering is handled by a high torque something-or-another connected to the hubs with Unlimited Engineering's Ti steering link kit (which uses 1/8 scale OFNA balls and ball ends), and the cantilever pushrods are Titanium parts from Unlimited as well. Traxxas Big Bores with stock springs are on it...still.

As of now the truck runs 2WS...that should change sometime, but probably not soon.

I do plan to swap out the aluminum rods on the chassis to graphite DIY parts.

On to the pics...

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00110.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00113.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00114.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00117.JPG

My wife came home today and saw the chassis..."WOW!" was her reaction. This is the first carbon fiber chassis I've had on a monster truck and it's definitely a killer look.

One thing that jumped out at me while assembling this chassis (and something that Hairball asked about) was that the multiple upper link mounting points allow you to correct/change caster.

Back in Korea when I swapped to the Kyosho ball ends I didn't bother to trim the upper ball ends to get the correct caster. I'm still running the same ball ends but now I can move the upper link mounting point back a bit and get back to stock caster. Bonus!

[DCLXVI]

Nice chassi...! :eek:


How are the stock shocks on the TXT-1?

And the battery mounts? Is it configured to be used with one 6 cell pack?

/DCLXVI

[tl01boi]

that looks great man btw how fast does your txt1 go? and do they have a carbon chassis for the tamiya juggernaut 2

[ProjectTwin]

No stock shocks, Traxxas big bores with the stock big bore springs.

You can run two battery packs, the 2nd top plate is drilled for the Associated cups as well. The plates are also drilled so you can move the outer cup out to hold a 7 cell pack. I just use 6 cell stick packs though.

With both plates and battery cups (for running two batteries) installed, the electronics would mount dead center.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by tl01boi
that looks great man btw how fast does your txt1 go? and do they have a carbon chassis for the tamiya juggernaut 2

Thanks.

How fast? S.....L.....O....W. It's geared to crawl, like all my electric monsters.

Here's a few pics of the Jugg (running stock TXT tranny) with the Xtreme chassis...building it now. ;)

Side shot, Traxxas big bores with stock Traxxas springs. The aluminum suspension links are leftovers from an ESP Jugg kit. I'll probably end up making my own graphite links...eventually.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00121.JPG

3/4 view. The stainless steel hardware is included, the black oxide screws are stuff I used in substitution of the phillips head kit screws.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00122.JPG

Top view
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00123.JPG

The steering servo mounts...tucked away from the front of the truck...better approach angle. :)

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00124.JPG

My home-built upper link/cantilever pushrod mounts.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00125.JPG

[hyperstang]

How is the weight difference?

[ProjectTwin]

The Xtreme carbon fiber chassis plates are 6oz lighter than stock.

[DCLXVI]

I didn't mean on your truck ProjectTwin...I meant the stock shocks that are mounted on the TXT-1 when you buy them...same with the batt mounts...

/DCLXVI

[ProjectTwin]

Oh, in that case...

The stock shocks and springs are ok. To the best of my memory they're oil filled.

The stock battery mount can be used with either 6 or 7 cells. There's a little tab that you unscrew to run 7 cells.

The interesting part is that if you completely remove the battery strap and use a velcro strap (which, oddly enough there are slots molded into the battery tray for) you can run either two 6 or 7 cell packs with the cells flipped on their side.

If you plan to run an E-Maxx tranny though the stock battery tray gets in the way...some trimming will make it work, no big deal.

[DCLXVI]

Ok, thanks, as I said, I'd like to know everything I sould get from the beginning so I can order everything at the same time...

But running two packs are only for increased run time right?

Is there some special chip for selectable 4WS or do I have to make one myselfe? I'd like to have 4x4x4 but not all the time... :)


Oh, and the E-Maxx tranny, that requires another channel right? What are the advantages to using that tranny, speed or torque (both?)?

Sorry to bother you with all there questions but since I have to pay $$$$$$ more if I don't order everything from the US or Asia I really want to know in advance...I'm not kidding when I say that a "good" price here for a T-Maxx are almost 1000 USD...

/DCLXVI

[ProjectTwin]

If you wire the packs in parallel you'll get more run time. (same 7.2V, just doubling the mAh rating)

Wiring them in series give you a short runtime but faster top speed. (would be like a 12 cell 2400 mAh pack)

If you want 4WS you can get this with the kit included parts and two servos. Follow the directions and there's no need to use a servo reversing lead on the rear servo. If you want selectable rear steering you'd need a 3 channel radio that would support that feature...plan on it being a computerized FM.

The E tranny is used with a 3rd channel. Any 3 channel radio (even a stock AM Traxxas radio) will work for you here.

Advantages....

Easier to find replacement parts (although the TXT comes with once extra set of tranny gears)
Easier to change pinion/spur gears (while tranny is installed...can't do that with stock tranny)
Easier to set gear mesh (MUCH)
More gearing options (can change spur as well as pinion)
Slipper
Aftermarket parts availability
2 speeds!

Disadvantages....

Slipper
Need to buy/make mounts for tranny and servo


I was cruising through my pics last night and found an image that reminded me of something Hairball said...

Here's the shot I took just prior to installing the E tranny in the TXT...notice the date it was uploaded. I pulled that off my old MSN communities account. Too bad they killed it.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/longago.jpg

[Hairball]

Regarding that dual deck two battery setup on the xtreme chassis.

In whoever designed its ultimate wisdom, when you mount two battery cups on that upper deck, where do you mount your electronics? Seems like a serious flaw if you ask me.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Is there some special chip for selectable 4WS or do I have to make one myselfe? I'd like to have 4x4x4 but not all the time... :)


Dig around www.txt1.net for the info your looking for. I used to use this sytem (I designed it).

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball
Regarding that dual deck two battery setup on the xtreme chassis.

In whoever designed its ultimate wisdom, when you mount two battery cups on that upper deck, where do you mount your electronics? Seems like a serious flaw if you ask me.

They're supposed to fit dead center...seems like it'd be a tight fit, especially with a Super Rooster and RX.

I was told last night that these are early protos...I ended up with a set of 6 that were made.

I'm sending a drawing back to him later today or Saturday with a couple of suggestions/ideas.

[Hairball]

This is what I built for mine. Sorry for the bad picture. :)
http://home.jps.net/~hairball/newdeck10.jpg

[DCLXVI]

Thanks for all the help...I am probably going to use/order a Futaba 3 ch FM radio...and two 111 oz Futaba servos...

I'll have to consider if I will be using 6 or 7 or 8 cell packs... If I use 6 cell I can use the extra packs I have for my other elec car...

Where can I accuitre the E-Maxx tranny and the neccecary parts needed to fit it...rc4wd.com?

/DCLXVI

[Hairball]

I got both of mine off of

e b a y

[BigBadTahoe]

I just ordered Magnetic Mayhems for my TXT the other day and want to know if I should regear the truck at all from the stock gearing? Also would a 2 packs wired in series or parrallel be a good idea with these motors and stock tranny? I am running a Super Rooster ESC by the way. :confused:

[ProjectTwin]

DDD, how do you plan to use it? Crawling or what?


Update on my TXT...

Still re-working it. :D

Adapting Xtreme's Jugg steering servo mount to the TXT axles.

Before...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00138.JPG


After...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00139.JPG

BTW, as of now in the pics the before shot is the rear, after is the front. I'll finish the rear later today...I'll also trim those 50mm long screws then. :p

[Hairball]

Where is the servo?

[ProjectTwin]

It's going right here...:)

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00147.JPG

:D

[Hairball]

Groovy! How is the driveline clearance? Any problems under full articulation?

[ProjectTwin]

Driveline clearance is fine with Maxx sliders (larger in diameter than stock) and the servo barely touches the upper link under full artriculation (Driver's side front compressed).

A simple 3mm aluminum tab under each of the servo ears will get rid of any hint of the servo touching the link.

Once I'm done with the link mounts I'll get the servos mounted. haven't done any work today. Wife is feeling bad and I'm keeping tabs on Megan.

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/megan/shockoil.jpg

[Hairball]

Just think of the mess she could make with that bottle of shock oil! :D

Thanks for the pictures and info. That may end up being the next mod I do to my TXT-1.

[4wdmt]

guys, i want to temporarily try locking the diffs of my stock TXT 1 using silly putty (as recommended by rc car action on their special MT issue), but i am worried about the effect it will make when in comes to its handling and performance. Can you pls. give me an idea of what to expect if ever i will lock the diffs. shall i lock both front and rear? Thanks guys.

[ProjectTwin]

HB,

Here's some more pics...

The upper link mount (can use one design for all 4 corners)
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/linkmount/DSC00143.JPG

The lower driver's side mount...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/linkmount/DSC00144.JPG

...lower passenger's side...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/linkmount/DSC00145.JPG

Unmounted lower passenger's side link mount...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/linkmount/DSC00146.JPG

The reason for two different lower link mounts is becuase you need the links mounted on the outside, just as with the stock underguard mounts.

If you pay attention to orientation of the mounts it's easy to keep the stock geometry. You'll notice that I kept the lower link mounts tapered to help them slide over rocks. I can also mount up a simple skidplate to them. ;)

4wdmt, if you lock the diffs you'll decrease your turning radius. You'll have better performance off-road in areas such as rocks where one wheel my end up in the air, unloaded.

[Hairball]

Thanks for the pics P-Twin. Very cool stuff you've got going on there. Once I get done with my silly E-Maxx project, I'll probably start working on the TXT-1 again.

[speedydave]

Anyone want a second TXT-1 with E-Tranny? :p

[ProjectTwin]

Well, Megan was crying and didn't want to sleep, so I fired up the ol' band saw...

The rough cut tabs, I made four of these, two for each servo. (notice the overly complicated tracing) :p
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/roughtabs.jpg

Drilled, filed, sanded and done.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/finishedtabs.jpg

Installed.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/tabsinstalled.jpg

Sitting level, zero articulation.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/level.jpg

The link and servo at max articulation...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/linkmax.jpg

Here's the tires at max articulation...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/tiremax.jpg

If you wanted you could add another 1.5mm (1/16") to the 3mm (1/8") spacer I'm using. I really don't think it's needed, though.

One last shot, the servo leads in relation to the driveshaft. I installed the servo with the output shaft near the center of the axle...see the 3rd pic.
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/servolead.jpg

Tomorrow (later today), steering links! ;)

[Hairball]

Very cool man. We do need to figure out an affordable aternative to those plastic sliders don't we? :)

[ProjectTwin]

The new sliders from the 2.5 hold up very well.

[DCLXVI]

Very niceee looking... :)

What camera are you using...seems to be using a good macro objective...?

/DCLXVI

[ProjectTwin]

Camera is a Sony DSC-S50. Had it for years...GREAT camera.

I can be about 1-2" from an object and get a nice, clear pic.

[krisI.925]

Originally posted by Hairball
Very cool man. We do need to figure out an affordable aternative to those plastic sliders don't we? :)

There is one.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/149677.asp

http://graphics.hobbypeople.net/gallery/149677.jpg

[Hairball]

I've seen that one, but not in person. Does it really work? It looks funky.... :)

[smallman28]

HELP!!!
Just connected everything up except the motors and the SR poured smoke out of the top!
Didn't even get a chance to run it!
Do you think its dead,everytime I connect it now it just smokes!
Why would it do that without even being under any load?
No obvious short circuit etc,very strange.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Camera is a Sony DSC-S50. Had it for years...GREAT camera.

I can be about 1-2" from an object and get a nice, clear pic.

Hehe...thanks to you I now own a DSC-P32...3,2 Mpixels, hope it's good, certanly seems good :D

Got it for like 350 USD or something...

/DCLXVI

[ProjectTwin]

Cool.

I've used my S50 nearly every day since I bought it. It usually goes to the track with me in the toolbox and 4-wheeling in the tracker.

It's never skipped a beat. :)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by smallman28
HELP!!!
Just connected everything up except the motors and the SR poured smoke out of the top!
Didn't even get a chance to run it!
Do you think its dead,everytime I connect it now it just smokes!
Why would it do that without even being under any load?
No obvious short circuit etc,very strange.

You probably plugged the battery in backwards. If it smoked, its fried. Send it into Novak to get it repaired.

[smallman28]

No,sorry I didn't do that!
It gets stranger,it works fine yet it doesn't want to go into reverse now.
I have checked that reverse is enabled yet it still wont do it,just keeps going forwards.
Dont know if it's possible to fry the "reverse" FETS (if there is such a thing),yet Novak seem to indicate that if reverse is enabled yet it doensn't work then you should also be able to operate the ESC even with it turned off yet this isn't the case again!
Will contact them I think and see what they say.

[Hairball]

The forward and reverse FET banks are seperate, so it is possible to blow one and have the other to continue to work. I'd send it back wether it worked fine or not after having smoke come out of it though.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Hairball
You probably plugged the battery in backwards. If it smoked, its fried. Send it into Novak to get it repaired.

Yup, and it's not going to work until you put the smoke back in. :p

[DCLXVI]

Remember to collect ALL the smoke, otherwise it will be to little smoke inside :D

[smallman28]

Okay,so I have saved all the smoke in a container how do I go about putting it back in?
Is there a certain method for doing this,does one way work better than the other?
How soon after should it work?

[DCLXVI]

Send the ESC and the smoke to novak...they can put the smoke back in...

[smallman28]

Whats the best way to send smoke?
At the moment it's in a glass container but I am worried if I send it it might get broke.
Don't Novak have some "stock" smoke they could back in it for me?

[DCLXVI]

the smoke are adapted for the ESC when the ESC are manufactured...it can't be replaced with "stock" smoke...:p

Send it in a plastic bottle maybe... :D

[DCLXVI]

the smoke are adapted for the ESC when the ESC are manufactured...it can't be replaced with "stock" smoke...:p

Send it in a plastic bottle maybe... :D

[Janders]

a simple alternative is to attach a 120v power source to another disposable circuit board. Be ready with a plastic zip lock bag. When putting the smoke in, use a funnel and a stick to 'push' it in. Also, be sure not to overfill .

[ProjectTwin]

LOL!

What have I started! :D

[DCLXVI]

Yeah...mabey it's gone far enough?!?

Anyway...getting back to the TXT-1, how many and what dimension ball-bearings will I have to replace at the start (I don't even wanna touch the bushings!)...?

For the diffs, will oil suffice or do you recommend grease? (I have 100 000w oil and 30 000w grease, I don't know if I can aquire 100 000 grease)?

/DCLXVI

[smallman28]

Indeed,getting back a slighty more serious note I contacted Novak who basically said sorry and send us the unit.
The only problem is being in the UK,the cost of carridge to and from and the chance of getting stung for a repair bill I am beginning to wonder if it's worth it.
Is there any reason the TXT cant run on just one motor?
Am I right in thinking there will be loss of torque more than anything?
If it can run okay on one I might just get a cheapo ESC and use just the one motor,I am unlikely to do anything that requires a lot or torque such as rock climbing.

[ProjectTwin]

Well, the Xtreme Jugg Steering mount won't work with the TXT. The next obstacle was the steering links hitting the lower suspension links.

I have a new servo mount drawn up though. Tested and works. ;)

[weeb_beano]

I was using silicone caulk for diff sticking in my Jugg2. In my current 6WD jugg project i'm sticking Silly Putty [tm] into one of the diffs to see how it works out.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by smallman28
Indeed,getting back a slighty more serious note I contacted Novak who basically said sorry and send us the unit.
The only problem is being in the UK,the cost of carridge to and from and the chance of getting stung for a repair bill I am beginning to wonder if it's worth it.
Is there any reason the TXT cant run on just one motor?
Am I right in thinking there will be loss of torque more than anything?
If it can run okay on one I might just get a cheapo ESC and use just the one motor,I am unlikely to do anything that requires a lot or torque such as rock climbing.

Its a 12 pound monster. One motor will struggle for sure. Thats why Tamiya designed it with two in mind. You could use one brushless motor, but thats expensive. :)

When I get around to it, I'm going to install my Hacker C50 in my TXT-1 and see if I can torque twist it in two.... :D

[hyperstang]

Hairball,
keep us posted on that....I need to see that...

Race on....

[ProjectTwin]

I ran a B5-something in my Juggy while in Korea....

It skipped across a fairly smooth surface.

Blew the Juggy tranny as well.

[DCLXVI]

how many and what dimension ball-bearings will I have to replace at the start (I don't even wanna touch the bushings!)...?

Anyone?

I'm getting ready to order, just like to know...

[ProjectTwin]

RC4WD should have complete bearing kits for it.

Just get the kit.

[DCLXVI]

So the kit "requires" 27 bearings? Or are that the TOTAL number of bearings/bushings on the truck? I'm reluctant to order from the US since that will cost me $$$ for shipping...

Simple version of my question : How many bushings does the kit come with?

[Hairball]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
So the kit "requires" 27 bearings? Or are that the TOTAL number of bearings/bushings on the truck? I'm reluctant to order from the US since that will cost me $$$ for shipping...

Simple version of my question : How many bushings does the kit come with?

A ton!

Umm, off the top of my head.. 4 per axle (8 total), 2 per catalever (8 total), then a few in the tranny. The tranny comes stock with a few bearings, but not full bearings.

Actually, I think there are a few more in the axles on the top end of it. The 8 I mentioned before only hold the axle shafts (output). The input has a few bushings as well... lemme go see if I can find my manual...

[smallman28]

This is what it comes with

2 - 6x11
1 - 8x5
4 - 6x11
2 - 5x11

These are the rest you will need to get

16 - 6x12
8 - 5x11
11 - 5x8

[smallman28]

After the problems with the SR I have gone and purchased the LRP F1 Pro to use instead.
I am still waiting to hear from Novak about the SR,everytime I send them mail it just bounces back even using the address that is on their site.
At this rate it will probably end up on ebay just to get something for it even if it's only a few quid.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
So the kit "requires" 27 bearings? Or are that the TOTAL number of bearings/bushings on the truck? I'm reluctant to order from the US since that will cost me $$$ for shipping...

Simple version of my question : How many bushings does the kit come with?

Sorry, man. Didn't know you were across the pond.

:(

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Sorry, man. Didn't know you were across the pond.

:(

NP...

[krisI.925]

did u guys know that the TXT floats. I was drivin in my back yard yesterday and drove it into the river and it floated. whats even cooler is that it can go forward and backward because the tires act as paddles. The truck will eventualy sink as soon as the tires fill with water.

[smallman28]

hua15,I was wondering if you could answer me a couple of questions please?
I was looking on your site and was interested in some of the items for the TXT and being based in the UK could you tell me what payment methods you accept and roughly (depending on what I order) how much carridge would be.

Thank you

Mark

[civicds]

I'm looking for a txt-1 as a roller I'm looking to trade I have a almost rtr touring car to trade. If not name a price and LMK. thanks.

[Hairball]

How much you looking to spend? I've got a roller I could sell. So does SpeedyDave.

Speedys is hooked up, and he wants $425 for it. Full ball bearings, EVX / Titan combo. E-Maxx tranny installed. Etc. All stock parts too if you want them.

PM me if your interested, I can get ahold of him quickly if needed.

[civicds]

I'm more looking for a roller cause it will be cheaper for me to get one than a rtr txt-1. and I know how much they are BN cause I used to own one so a good condition txt-1 lets say $200 If I can get one cheaper I would rather do that whatever is the cheapest.

[speedydave]

I can probably do something for ya. Here are some pics...

http://community.webshots.com/album/78712561aGnqal

Would come with the batteries, too. Also has an Air. 358 steering servo, full bearings, MP foams in the tires...Doesn't include the XXtra, though.

[Hairball]

LOL! You so funny!

A "roller" is a TXT-1 without electronics right? Depending on condition, price varies. Well, Daves is BRAND NEW. Like, one run on it maybe? PLUS the ball bearings. We can strip it down if you like, but $200? You can't even buy an E-Maxx for that...

[civicds]

well I saw the pics and that txt-1 looks in excellent condition but depending how on much u want for it I'm getting paid this weekend so i'll know how much I can spend when I get the money. would u take a trade and some money?

[speedydave]

Sorry, I can't accept any trades. I really need the cash. If $425 is too much, and you don't need all of the stuff, I can sell it cheaper without the servo(it's a kickass servo, I have things I could use it for, but there are cheaper servos around you could put in it). Keep in mind, with the E-Maxx tranny, you'll either need a 3 channel radio, or you'll have to lock the tranny in 1st or 2nd.

[civicds]

you have the e-maxx tranny in there. I'm looking for just a stock txt-1 with no hop ups just a roller.

[Hairball]

He has the stock tranny if thats what you want. We could swap it out if you like...

(Dave and I are good friends.. he got the TXT-1 from me orignally)

[smallman28]

Got my LRP Pro1 ESC today and I have to say I was quite impressed,certainly a lot smaller unit than the SR.
I am just charging my batteries and wondered if someone could give me an idea of roughly how long it should take,I am charging 3000mah packs at 3 amps,at the moment it is over 1 hour,is this normal?
I am sure there is a formula to work it out.

[DCLXVI]

If you charge 3 ampere/hours (3000 mAH = 3 AH, m = 1000)batterys at 3 amperes it sould take about one hour... 3 / 3 = 1...then I guess that there are things like waste energy and resistances and other stuff (some of the energy will be waste in the form of heat) that will make it take longer than one hour...

[smallman28]

Yeah I thought about it after,moment of stupidity on my part.
I finally got to run the TXT earlier and am still smiling now,it's certainly a great fun car.
It's now covered in serious amounts of dust,still it's one of those cars that just looks right when it's dirty.

[krisI.925]

Just installed some Fantom LD stock motors in my TXT. I got tired of waiting for my BL ESC which i will probably get when im in college. I just hope my Rebel ESC can handle the power.

[BigBadTahoe]

I have a quick question, I just installed Magnetic Mayhems in my TXT and I haven't wired it up yet but when I turn the driveshaft by hand to see if the gear mesh is set pretty good, it is really hard to turn it, is this just because the motors are 22t singles? I just can't remeber if it was like this with the stockers or not? Thanks!:D :confused:

[5150SR71]

:) I run the Multiplex digital servos in my 5th scale car as well as my boat. I'd love to get them figured out for one of my trucks with mamoth tires. They are made to run off of 5 cells though so that would be tricky to set up. Good power though.....anywhere from 460 oz/inch with 5 cells. With 4 cells you get 368 oz/inch. Both right around .20-ish area also.

[Hairball]

Well.... You could run the TXT-1 with a Novak Super Rooster on 6 or 7 cells, and still squeze in a 5 cell (standard sub c size) pack for the servos...

Use side by side packs standing straight up in the battery holder.

[5150SR71]

Those are kind of the lines I was thinking. Might have to look into that. Don't think I would ever have to worry about a weak servo again! Pretty sure they are water proof as well which might be a bonus for those snow or mud packed adventures!

[Hairball]

This is how I used to do mine...

[5150SR71]

Nice! I have done similar type setups where I make the batteries part of the truck. Solder them so they hang as low as possible but are next to impossible to get out of the truck. The creates good low CG but requires the truck be present for charging. Kind of a pain but good performance wise.

That's a good setup. Might have to look into that. Thanks for the pic.

[Hairball]

You're welcome.

Good luck with your project.

[BigBadTahoe]

Does anyone know if with the motors connected it should be hard or pretty easy to tun the driveshafts by hand? Anyone please???:confused: :confused: :confused:

[smallman28]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
Does anyone know if with the motors connected it should be hard or pretty easy to tun the driveshafts by hand? Anyone please???:confused: :confused: :confused:


I found that when I fitted my motors and then tried to just push the truck it all seemed very stiff to the extent that I took them back out to check everything was okay again.
I think it is just due to the fact there are two motors and a lot of gears it makes the drivetrain seem very stiff if you try to push it or turn the wheels by hand.

[Janders]

Other than Tamiya. I want to find 12 or 14T 48p metric pinions.
Thanks

[krisI.925]

most companys make 48p pinions. But if you want 48p pinions for your TXT you will need a 48p spur. Good luck with that one.

The TXT-1 has a stock gear ratio of 34:1. So pusing the truck or just turning the shafts should be very difficult for that very reason. The stock motors that come with the truck are very easy to turn for some odd reason i dont know why. But any other aftermarket stock or modified motor should be very difficult.

When I used to run a 5 cell sub C pack for my servos I connected it underneath the electronics mounting tray right infront of the motors. It kept the CG low but I did contact the top links when the truck bottomed out tho.

Also I need some help picking out a new ESC. My rebel reverse can only handle my new motors in parallel for about 5 minuts at a time. So I need something with more power. I was thinking of an F1 Pro Reverse. I want to get a ESC that isnt to big and expensive and so far that seems like the best way to go. Any suggestions besides the SR?

[DCLXVI]

Eh, this is probably already asked somewhere on these forums (probably in V1.0, wich seems to have gone AWOL) but I humbly ask if the TXT-1 and Clod tires are interchangeble? Can I mount Clod wheels on TXT rims? If not, can I mount Clod rims on the TXT-1?

Hopefully I get to order two complete sets of TXT-1's with everything needed early next week! :D

/DCLXVI

[weeb_beano]

The tires and rims are interchangable between TXT and Clod when it comes to tire fit.

However the similarities in the rims are not quite the case. Both rims have five mounting nubs- but the Clod has nubs that are 4mm in diameter. The TXT has nubs that are 8mm in diameter.

So... to fit Clod rims on a TXT you need some bushings that are 4x8x2mm or so CA glued to the nubs.
To get TXT rims to fit on a Clod you need to drill out the hubs so that they can accept the 8mm nubs.

[smallman28]

Originally posted by krisI.925
Also I need some help picking out a new ESC. My rebel reverse can only handle my new motors in parallel for about 5 minuts at a time. So I need something with more power. I was thinking of an F1 Pro Reverse. I want to get a ESC that isnt to big and expensive and so far that seems like the best way to go. Any suggestions besides the SR?


I got my F1 recently and it is a great little piece of kit,a lot smaller than the SR and it hardly got warm to the touch even with the Reedy R 14T doubles I am using,lasted longer so far than my SR that went up in smoke before it even powered a wheel in anger.

[weeb_beano]

Yeah, i also despise the SR. There are older versions of the F1 Pro Reverse that do not seem as heat tolerant (those are the ones rated for 9T or 10T single motors only) just as a heads up.

Junk!
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/tiamat/tiamat_progress57.jpg

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by weeb_beano
The tires and rims are interchangable between TXT and Clod when it comes to tire fit.

However the similarities in the rims are not quite the case. Both rims have five mounting nubs- but the Clod has nubs that are 4mm in diameter. The TXT has nubs that are 8mm in diameter.

So... to fit Clod rims on a TXT you need some bushings that are 4x8x2mm or so CA glued to the nubs.
To get TXT rims to fit on a Clod you need to drill out the hubs so that they can accept the 8mm nubs.

Thanks for the quick reply...good...since Clod tires fit the TXT rims I won't need to mount clod rims on the TXT...but thanks for the info, it might prove usefull...

:)

/DCLXVI

[BigBadTahoe]

Ok thanks for the info guys, I guess it is just these mod motors. I am just curious, why are you guys mad at your SR's and throwing them out? I thought they were good esc that could handle low turn dual motors? I mean this is the esc they used on the TXT in the MT edition mag. :confused:

[ProjectTwin]

DDD, don't get discouraged over the SuperRooster.

For every one person that says they suck, there's a ton of other guys have been using them for years and had no problems.

I've taken my SuperRooster underwater, thrashed the hell out of it and had no problems.

[weeb_beano]

I've had 5 super roosters in various trucks and three of them have failed over time. Not a good success rate if you ask me.

Novak needs to improve their quality assurance because ever since Tekin went under they have been a shadow of themselves.
Say what you will, but money talks, and money is headed to brushless or to other brushed vendors like GM.

I myself have gone brushless and at this rate am not looking back. Also I for one don't trust magazine reviews all that much. Something about sponsor dollars.

[krisI.925]

as soon as i pick up my bronco today ill head out to Ryders. Half the guys there are all hardcore electric MT guys and they will probably know whats best. I was thinking of getting that new Mtronics Super E truck ESC. Although it might be a little over kill. Im looking for something that can tide me over till my BL controller gets here and that I can put in my WD(a dual motor truck). Thanx for all the help.

[ProjectTwin]

Finished up the Xtreme chassis.

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00227.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00228.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt/xtreme/DSC00229.JPG

I wanted to make new tranny mounts and make graphite links for the chassis but I don't have the time.

I went back to stock steering for now...didn't want to sort out the rest of the links.

I also found some old pics of my TXT...

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt2/txt2air.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt2/txt2landing.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt2/txt2wheelie.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

weeb bano are those SRs broken?
wanna sell me them at a low price?

[krisI.925]

ok out of all the lhs around i could only find a SR for $130 bux. Do you guys think that is to much to pay.

[BigBadTahoe]

ProjectTwin how do you have your TXT setup to get air like that? What motors are you running a stuff? Does it still have rockcrawling power? Thats pretty cool!:cool:

[egdinger]

project twin that is kick-a:D How much that set up cost? ddd I think he's running a e-maxx tranny in there. pt do you have old chassie and the bars that connect them? If so could I buy them?

[ProjectTwin]

DDD, those are old pics of TXT #2. I think I was running an EVX and Titans in it then with stock tranny. Now it's just a super rooster and titans (7.2v). I think the wheelie pic is cool becuase although it's doing a wheelie, you can see that it's throwing a little roost off the rear tires as well.

egdinger, the Xtreme TXT has...


Xtreme Racing chassis plates
Xtreme Racing battery tray (2 of the 6 protos made, from what I understand)
Xtreme Racing upper link mount braces
E-Maxx transmission with Bolink 8 tooth pinions/T-Maxx 72 tooth spur
Traxxas Titans
Super Rooster ESC
Ballistic Batteries 2400s
Traxxas driveshafts
Kyosho 1/8 scale 6.8mm ball ends with the "hard" balls and Rocket City 3mm conical washers
New Era cantilevers
New Era underguard mounts
Vertigo center skidplate
Unlimited Engineering Titanium cantilever pushrod links
Unlimited Engineering Titanium steering links
Traxxas Big Bore shocks with Trinity black T/E-Maxx springs


The rest of the stuff is small things...some red conical washers from Cross (I think) racing that I picked up in Korea...Deans plugs...I switched from handmade servo mount for the 3rd channel to aluminum servo mounts from Project Twin...Futuba high-torque steering servo (9303...only 99oz. of torque...need to find my Hitec)...both diffs are JB welded...front and rear bumpers removed, $.75 plastic clamps from hardware store used to secure battery and electronics trays...all the screws are 3mm socket head cap screws from McMaster...then the Pro-Line CJ body and JR XR3.

I still have some parts I want to make for this thing...:D

The slipper does slip at times, but it's not a bad thing when you have driveshafts to contend with.

I went to the LHS testing shock springs until I found some I like...then bought that set...not enough cash to buy a bunch and guess at it.

The 3rd channel on the XR3 is set up in the "3P" mode, so that the "A" thumb button is a 3 posistion switch. The tranny is normally locked in first (switch in the middle) and whe I want 2nd I push the switch forward. This isn't a big deal since it spends most of it's life on rocks and bashing around, but if you were going to race with it, it might be a problem.

That's about it for my set-up. :)

[BigBadTahoe]

So when did you have it setup at one time with the stock tranny, SR, and titans? If so how did it perform, powerful, fast, slow, what?:confused: You must have a pretty sweet truck though now after all that spent money!:D

[smallman28]

Is there anything to be gained in terms of articulation/suspension travel by removing the sway bars,do they have that much of an effect?

[ProjectTwin]

DDD, that was a while back, on my 2nd TXT.
It was fast (not as fast as the Brushless Jugg), but slower than an E-Maxx. With the E tranny, ESC, and motors it'd be neck and neck on top end...just more of a handful to control.

Smallman...

The purpose of a sway bar is to prevent body roll. Say you're taking a left turn at speed...

The right front suspension will compress a good bit, the left rear will unload a good bit.

The left front will unload some, but not as much as the left rear.

Same deal for the right rear, it'll compress, but not as much as the left front. Sway bars will help prevent the body/chassis from leaning to the right as you take a left turn.

Interesting fact about body roll and articulation. They're basically the same thing.

Body roll often means the chassis leaning on one direction, with the same side of the suspension on both axles being compressed (to whatever point) at the same time, like when cornering.

Articulation is usually referred to as single axle travel (or opposite corners of the suspension being compressed).

Articulation and body roll are basically the same thing, movement of the axle under the chassis. The same basic mechanical things are happening, just referred to in different ways.

So..sway bars...

Since sway bars are designed to lessen the body roll (or articulation of each axle during cornering) they will cause a loss in articulation.

Make sense?

[BigBadTahoe]

I find that having the sway bars bolted up just snug and no zipties is the way to go for a good amount of artic. and enough for speeding around corners. Although I have only ran the stock setup + a SR so it really isn't very fast. Hopefully when I finally install my Magnetic Mayhems it will be a little quicker and more powerful, do ya think?:confused:

[ProjectTwin]

Say hello to Twin's TXT's lil' brother...Juggy.

I just finished this one (sort of...still need electronics) for the CT race...

Swiped a couple of parts from the Avalanche while it sits on the shelf...mostly the wheels/tires and steering servo.

A few pictures...It's humid as all get-out here, so there's some condensation on the wheels from coming out into the humidity. The foggy areas are from the condensation on the camera lens...I cleaned it 3 times while trying to take pics..

The chassis is the Xtreme XJ1, which I got in trade.

Suspension links are ESP parts that were laying around from the Jugg's brushless days.

Shocks are the same old Big Bores with Trinity black springs.

Motors are Traxxas Titans (again). I'll run them on 7.2V for now, but since I'm taking this truck to the RCCA CT race, I might enter and run it on the EVX and 14V.

I grabbed TXT underguards and underguard mounts from the parts tub. I wanted to use the Xtreme inboard servo mounts but don't have time to make new suspension and cantilever link mounts...the TXT parts had the necessary holes pre-drilled. :)

Steering links are Titanium parts from Unlimited.

The body is painted by Outkast and is still unmounted. I'm going to have to rig up a mounting system to use the pre-drilled holes for the TXT/Maxxes.

The radio will probably be an AM RTR radio from the Micro RS4.

I'll probably stick the Tempest Max in it for an ESC, but I'm still contemplating that 14V set-up...:D

The suspension is nowhere near dialed in...I just threw the truck together last night from parts so I could take it to CT. It turned out looking killer with the long wheelbase and bajas...I hope it runs as good as it looks. :confused:

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00233.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00234.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00237.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/jugg/xtreme/DSC00238.JPG

I still need to install the electronics and figure out a way to mount the body. There's hardly any room on the upper chassis for mounts.

[SteveK]

How do those Titans on 7.2V work compared to something like 19 turn Orion Rush motors?

[ProjectTwin]

Don't know...

Send me some 19 turn motors and I'll tell you. :p

My guess is that they're slower (higher turn) than the 19 turns.

[SteveK]

But are they torquey? How is the power and run time? Do you have anything to compare it too?

[BigBadTahoe]

Hey I really like the Jugg. it must really move. I have aquick question though about my TXT. I just got my Magnetic Mayhems installed and running and sometimes at fullspeed the gears I think make a sort of whining noise and sometimes it doesn't? What could cause this? Not enough grease? Pinions set to close or far from the spur? What! This really bugs me. Thanks.:( :confused: :mad:

[BigBadTahoe]

Common you mean this never happened to anyone else? Its just a whining noise at full throttle but sometimes it doesn't do it whagt would be causing it?:confused: :confused: :confused:

[krisI.925]

it could me lots of things 3D. it could be your bushings or maybe a bad bearing. Try putting some lithium grease in your trannies and some WD-40 here and there. Also it could be your motors. Trying giving your motors a shot of comm cleaner then use a comm stick and a rotory tool to clean them up.

And BTW did anyone see bad boys 2 yet. Theres a moddified TXT-1 in it with a camera and C4 on it.

[hyperstang]

That I did.....I was surprised seeing it in there. I was yellin in the theatres...

Kinda weird when I am the only one yellin...LOL

Gotta see it, they run the shocks verticle, but the chassis is what gave it away for me...

Race on...

BAD BOYZ FOR LIFE....

[BigBadTahoe]

Man I got to see that movie! So you think I just need to oil up and grease the tranny then? The motors are brand new so they shouldn't be the cause should they?:confused: :D

[hyperstang]

My guess is as good as was said by KrisI...

Just throw more grease in there, while it is open, check the gears and (plastic and metal). Go out and buy that big tube of Tamiya grease and don't be nice.....slap a wad in that bad boy. That should help a little..

Race on..

BAD BOYZZ..BAD BOYZZZ..AAAAWHATCHA GONNA DO WHEN THEY COME FOR YOU...SA NIT SA NAT SA NAT...NENE...


Race on...

[BigBadTahoe]

Great reply!!! :D :cool: :D

[hyperstang]

Here is a shot of my TXT...under the hood of the hummer H2. I got a TTR emaxx tranny conversion, emaxx tranny, Orion 13T doubles, Super Rooster, boca bearings all around, High torque futaba steering servo and outback pro line rims with big joe 40 series all around.

[hyperstang]

Here is the money shot....BAD..BOYS...BAD..BOYS..

OK that's enough...Sorry, I still can't believe that was a TXT that kicked A S S....i do mean that literally....

Race on...

[BigBadTahoe]

Your TXT is sweet! I am painting a my new Cadillac EXT extra long maxx body for my TXT right now. It is black like the hummer but with silver fenders and lower body. I really like the way big joes look on it, do they grip better than the stockers? By the way what shocks are those? Or are those just T-maxx springs? Did you ever run the 13turn motors with just a regular tranny? Just wondered how much faster they would be than my Magnetic Mayhems? Which are like 22turn I think? Will those motors make it pull wheelies? Sorry about the questions, awsome truck!:D

[hyperstang]

My shocks are actually big bore shocks. I did run 14T with the stock tranny and I tell you what, My left tire goes up so high, that it actually rubbed against my body. As for wheelies, yes I have pulled many a wheelies, but then it went right over on its back...

Race on..

[krisI.925]

so for the past week i havent been able to get a better ESC to run my motors in parallel because no is currently carring one powerful enough and i dont have any money cause i just bout a new computer. So instead i hooked up 14.4 volts to my rebel ESC running dual Fantom stock motors. The truck has enough power to break the rear differential with just a blip of the throttle. And the ESC seemed to handle the power just fine. Do you think it will last very long or eventually go up in smoke.

[BigBadTahoe]

I might watch hooking up the motors like that, might be a little much but I'm not sure. I am kinda mad now because the little pin that hold the driveshafts together fell out some how and I have to get a new one. I also was wondering if those Hotbodies ufo wheels will go on a TXT-1? Is there someway to do it??? That would look and be awsome!

[Tamiya4eva]

I just got a brand new TXT-1 :D I need to know what foam tire inserts would fit using the stock tires and rims. Thanks. :p

[smallman28]

Originally posted by Tamiya4eva
I just got a brand new TXT-1 :D I need to know what foam tire inserts would fit using the stock tires and rims. Thanks. :p

Ofna's Monster Foam Tire Inserts (# 81168) apparentley

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG36&P=7

[BigBadTahoe]

Its better for you to leave the tires soft if your climbing or crawling, but for racing or speed the foams are a good idea. Just my opinion.;)

[krisI.925]

I ran an entire pair of packs through the truck today and it worked great. More power than a single pack and the motors in parallel. Also I got around a 25min run time with just 2600mah packs. My rebel reverse handled it very well to. It got warm but never to hot to never touch and it never thermaled.

My set up once again:
-12 cells in series
-dual fantom stock motors in series
-Rebel Reverse ESC(10T motor limit)
-XR3i Radio
-no Rx pack

[Tamiya4eva]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
Its better for you to leave the tires soft if your climbing or crawling, but for racing or speed the foams are a good idea. Just my opinion.;)

I will do about everything with mine, climb, jump, no racing, just some speed runs. Are those foams direct fit?

[smallman28]

Originally posted by Tamiya4eva
I will do about everything with mine, climb, jump, no racing, just some speed runs. Are those foams direct fit?

Yes

[hyperstang]

Here is a pic of my TXT in the LHS monster Jam Race. The only TXT in a bunch of mod clods. It was a sight......

[hyperstang]

Here was my competition....I also own that white Escalade XC2 clodbuster....Only made it to Semi Finals with it...

[smallman28]

hyperstang,which Hummer body is that on the TXT ,perhaps it's just because it's black but it's the first time I have ssen one on a TXT that looks good.
No offence anyone else!
Got any larger pics?

[BigBadTahoe]

Why are there so many clod's? Are they just better for racing or what? I thought the TXT's were better trucks since they have a newer and better design?

[hyperstang]

Where to start...
Well I had to pour alot of money into my TXT just to keep up with the clods. When I first started the season, the only mods I had were ball bearings and 14T motors. I was able to keep up, but never beat them.

clod buster gearboxes were made to were the engines are directly bolted to spin the gears in the gearboxes, the gears get the full affect of the motors. the TXT's power from the engine goes to the shafts that spin the gears in our gear boxes. So power is loss as the power flows to the shafts then to the gears. Also these mod clods can get away with running on one battery pack, If I were to put one battery pack in my TXT..FORGET IT..I might as well pack it up and go home.

Plus the TXT is a lot...I do mean a lot heavier then these mod clods. My XC2 mod clod only weighs 8 pounds...So do most of the other clods with the Thunder Tech Chassis. My TXT, with emaxx tranny and prolines surpasses 10 pounds easy. Plus very top heavy...but put on the sway bars and you are pretty much good to go.

[minijosh]

now that i have seen this photo, i don't think i can run my touring cars anymore. thanks alot guys.

[hyperstang]

I feel you....man I went through it...
My nitro onroad races have been put on hold for now until the end of this seasons monster truck jams...

By the way, my TXT has been retired from this type of racing and will be entered in the rock crawling events....

smallman...

This is the hummer H2 body with a black/red/purple paint on it, backed with red then black again. In the sunlight this bad boy turns all colors...

Race on...

[krisI.925]

What kind of aftermarket ball cups are you guys using. All of mine are pretty worn out and need to be replaced. But I was thinking maybe it would be better to use captured ball ends or maybe just use those on the top bars or something.

[hyperstang]

I am using, I think, the Kyosho heavy duty ball ends for my TXT. This should be among one of your first upgrades if you plan on doing anykind of bashing, racing, climbing. When I first started racing my TXT, the ramps used in the competition would literaly, fly my TXT in the air, and when this bad boy lands...I had links popping off the wazzuu. So this was an irritating thing to do, popping back in the ball ends and seeing what screws I may have bent..

Race on..

[krisI.925]

well i visited a couple lhs s today and found some of the captured ball ends for the GS storm. They only had 8 all together so I could only do half of the truck for now. But they do make a great difference. It flexes a bit easier and they dont pop off or strip. Still gotta replace the other ones tho. I gotta fix my back steering lock to. I broke that when I was out bashing today.

[BigBadTahoe]

Can you run 2 packs through a SR? I like running 1 pack since its quicker and easier, but could I possibly set it up to have a choice so I could run 1 pack or 2? you know which ever I feel like?:confused: I still like the TXT better than those clods.;)