Tamiya TXT-1 v3.0

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

you would have to program the 3rd channel on a dial and use the mix on a button...:)

[The_In_Kid]

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_298.jpg

that servo is gonna hate you when you hit something :(


i had to trim down my kimborough server it didn't fit...


i use 2 x 5625 Hitech Digital servo's

[DCLXVI]

that servo is gonna hate you when you hit something

Probably, but I'm counting on the metal gear to keep it in shape...after all, the TXT doen't go that fast...:D

I'll have the other one finnished tomorrow...I just put the shocks and links on it...I just have the body posts and radio/battery tray left... :D

[Jeckler]

Mine's getting there, assembly-wise. I don't have the bearings yet, so I've been doing everything else. I've been all over the manual, trying to do as much as I can without assembling the axles or transmission. So the frame is sitting on the table with the links and cant arms hanging off it.
Has anyone else had issues with the Kimbrough servo saver's arm being shorter than the Tamiya one, and affecting steering throw?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Nah... You have to turn down steering anyways because the knuckles have stoppers so you don't break the axles.... :)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

DCLXVI
Nice truck indeed,
I love the rims and the tires...
What motors are you running with the F1?

[hyperstang]

Here is my HAWAIIAN BUILT TXT1 FULL BLOWN RACER. This TXT was bred for racing against mod clods instead of the rock climbing this beast was made for. XTREME hop ups on this bad mamma jamma. From Boca Bearings to the 2 speed emaxx tranny. This is now a rolling chassis and maybe retired as a shelf queen or for sale if anyone is interestd with the right price. But here are a few pics of this beast. Also hop ups include Futaba servo HI TORQUE DIGITAL SERVO with Kimbrough heavy duty servo saver, TTR wideners, Proline 40 Outbacks with Big Joes, TTR second battery tray, Tmaxx drive shafts, Big bore shocks, emaxx 2 speed tranny, Third channel servo for shifting, Powered by Orion 14X2. Take a look.

ENJOY...

[hyperstang]

Coming at ya!!!!

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what is your final gear ratio on the first speed and the second speed?

looks like a cool race truck!:D

[4wdmt]

guys, what is the "TORQUEST" motors out there? can you also give the specs if ever, thanks.

BTW, cool trucks guys.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
DCLXVI
Nice truck indeed,
I love the rims and the tires...
What motors are you running with the F1?

So far, stock, soon, Magetic Mayhems probably...

I just finnished building 213's TXT-1, he is sitting next to me and are about to post some pics of his truck...

[213]

And here it is


http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_305.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_307.jpg

[DCLXVI]

And just to finnish of:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_308.jpg

[4wdmt]

213, nice grave digger body!!!!

DCLXVI, i just noticed from your other pic. is that a seperate 5 cell batt pack pack for the receiver? or for your servo? if ever, how did you hook it up? im planning to put a 1/4 scale servo, but it requires a seperate 4.8v/6.0v power to operate it. can someone help me with this? thanks.

[hyperstang]

WOW!!!

2 TXT's. Nice trucks there. May convert mine back to a truck. Looking at the Ford F350 body by Proline.

Race on..

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by 4wdmt
213, nice grave digger body!!!!

DCLXVI, i just noticed from your other pic. is that a seperate 5 cell batt pack pack for the receiver? or for your servo? if ever, how did you hook it up? im planning to put a 1/4 scale servo, but it requires a seperate 4.8v/6.0v power to operate it. can someone help me with this? thanks.

I just connected the battery into the reciver, in the battery slot...(I made the pack myselfe using five GP2000 AA witch I solderd together :) )

I don't know about the 1/4 scale servos, how do they get that extra 4,8/6v? Seperat wires?
Anyways, I really don't see the point of using 1/4 servos as the servo I have are strong enough to flip the wheels easily even standing still on a high bite surface (11 kg @ 0.12 sec / 60 deg) and that servo is about 70-80 bucks at tower...(I'm planning on one for the rear end)... ;)
But the 945 is quite the power hog, hence the extra reciver pack (not REALLY neccecary but it is nice to have, since I have the room)...

[DCLXVI]

BTW, does any of you have a DuraTrax Evader of some sorts (using the same shocks as I have)? I'd like to know how the spacers look like since I have a problem with slop since I don't have a spacer that is big enough... :(

[Simen123]

Yes!
Finally got my txt-1 at the post office today :D

Will open it tomorrow :)

[213]

Originally posted by 4wdmt
213, nice grave digger body!!!!



Thanks I'm looking to have the chassi painted, I think it will be a killler don't you?

Regards 213

[SteveK]

Can somebody scan their TXT-1 chassis siteplate for me?

[Janders]

Originally posted by 4wdmt
213, nice grave digger body!!!!

DCLXVI, i just noticed from your other pic. is that a seperate 5 cell batt pack pack for the receiver? or for your servo? if ever, how did you hook it up? im planning to put a 1/4 scale servo, but it requires a seperate 4.8v/6.0v power to operate it. can someone help me with this? thanks.

Depends on your ESC.. I use a 1/4 scale servo, and the SuperRooster ESC put's out 6.0v so you don't need a separate pack. If I were running 2 1/4 servos I'd probably go with a reciever pack.

[4wdmt]

thanks Janders. i also have the SR, so there is no need for an extra pack for 1/4 servo.

DCLXVI, hmmm a seperate 5 cell pack directly on your receiver. did you do something with the LRP esc connection going to the rx? sorry for all the questions, i am afraid of putting a seperate rx pack when the super rooster is already connected. i might burn something up. :(

213, hmmm, will you powder coat the body? that will be awesome. but, dont you think the chassis is already nice naked :D .

Simen 123, you can still wait for tomorrow? lol. congrats, have fun building it. it took mine two days almost.

thats one of the nice thing of building an RC kit, you will feel the joy of accomplishment when you see the kit take its form. its so gratifying. and you'll know the ins and outs of your unit. no one to blame when you commit a mistake on the process of building it. lol. peace.

happy holidays TXT-1 bashers!!!

[newracer]

Originally posted by 4wdmt
thanks Janders. i also have the SR, so there is no need for an extra pack for 1/4 servo.

DCLXVI, hmmm a seperate 5 cell pack directly on your receiver. did you do something with the LRP esc connection going to the rx? sorry for all the questions, i am afraid of putting a seperate rx pack when the super rooster is already connected. i might burn something up. :(

[/B]
All of this was covered a few pages back. With most esc's all you have to do is not turn it on. If you put a switch between the rx pack and the rx you just turn on that switch and not the switch on the esc. If you are still worried you can cut the red wire from the esc to the rx but it is not necessary. I run my Tekin Titan like this on my TXT-1 with no problems. I have also done it with my GM V12 on my 1/12th car.

On my TXT-1 I have a charging switch. You plug the battery into one end, one end into the rx and one end is used to charge without disconnecting anything.

With some esc's it is not the voltage that is the problem it is the current. A lot will not provide enough amps to run 2 high torque servos. I am running a Hitec 5945MG digital in the front and a 645MG in the rear, under a heavy load the esc wouldn't provide enough amos and the digital servo would shut down (built in failsafe). That's why I went to a rx pack.

[newracer]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Anyways, I really don't see the point of using 1/4 servos as the servo I have are strong enough to flip the wheels easily even standing still on a high bite surface (11 kg @ 0.12 sec / 60 deg) 1/4 are cheaper and stronger. The 705MG is only $35 and has 201oz of torque. They have bigger gears with bigger teeth that are stronger. I plan on switching to 1/4 sometime soon. I know of a person that has some on his TXT-1 and he can put it against the wall on carpet and when he turns it will push the whole truck away from the wall!!!

[DCLXVI]

I could not resist the temptation...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_309.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_310.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_311.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_312.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_313.jpg

I know it's not good for the electronics and all that but I though, what the hell! It's mounted way up there anyway... ;)

Some of the pics are abit blurry, I guess my digi-cam can't really handle more than -10 C and complete darkness at the same time :D

And about that reciver pack thing...I just plugged everything on and it worked w/o anything burning...I guess that is LRP for you :p

[mavrick0]

1/4 scale might be cheaper and bigger and stronger but with all that comes all that extra weight specially if you are using 2 of them. It might not be a problem if you are a crawler, or general basher but for a racer like the one I'm building right now, weight is a big thing so I'd rather run my JR DS8411 servo's and save those extra pounds. Yes they are expensive but they work flawlessly, fast as hell and strong as well considering these are used by the guys flying heli's.

[4wdmt]

thanks newracer for the info.

[DCLXVI]

About locking the diffs, I know that you use either JB Weld or silly Putty to make it either permanent or semi-permanent...the question is, what the heck is JB Weld and Silly Putty, being in a non-US country, I have no clue what to get (or where to get)...
(I tried to day to put some liquid gasket in my rear diff, I don't know yet of it will work)...

[4wdmt]

JB weld is an epoxy kind of mix that hardens when cured, you can buy it at hardware stores. while silly putty is like a "clay", i dunno what exact material it is but you can buy it at toy stores (it is stored in this egg shape container).

check tower hobbies for the JB weld and toys r us for the silly putty, hope it helps.

[DCLXVI]

Thanks, I found the JB Weld on Tower and the Silly Putty on www.toysrus.com but they won't ship the SP internationally :(

Funny thing is, @ tower JB are 6 USD, surface shipping are 12 USD... :( Sometimes it sure does suck living outside US...(on the other hand, I won't get sued for stepping on someones toes or something ;))

[4wdmt]

ur welcome. try checking your local toy store or hardware for the items, youll never know. i have my f/r diffs temp. locked w/ SP. with this mod, it will surely put all powers to all 4 wheels. downside, reduced turning radius.

[Janders]

You ca get any type of epoxy that will work as well as JB-Weld.
JB weld is just a very strong plastic type bonder..
I have locked diffs with JB Weld, and normal; epoxy and noticed no difference.

Silly Putty is just a pliable Play-Do like stuff, that never really hardens.

Hope that helps...BTW make sure you clean off the diff parts before you try and glue it

[DCLXVI]

Now both diffs are locked...hope it will hold, I was not able to get off all the gunk from the spider gears...time will tell...

I got a dremel as a christmas present and decided to get down to some fabrication:

Custom radio-tray:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_314.jpg


Custom Side plate protection:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_315.jpg

What do you think? I'll add some stickers to the sideplates...

I'll see if I'll go out later today to test it...

[DCLXVI]

Some stickers added...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_316.jpg

I ran it outside for the second time, first time serious...my main reaction was : Oh my god! Is there nowhere this beast can't go?
I sure was impressed...the epoxy in the front diff aparenty are loosening, I'll have to check that you (some other time)...

[SteveK]

It's actually better to use brand new diff parts if you are going to lock them with epoxy: It's very tough to get all the grease off of them.

Plus you have the stock diffs if you ever want to go back (Locked diffs put a lot of stress on the drivetrain for normal running, especially at speed on high-grip surfaces).

[DCLXVI]

Well, I'm going to use the TXT-1 for rock-crawling only...I have my PureTen A2 for the tarmac and my ThunderTiger DT-10 for general off-road...

I'm planning on buying locked chrome diffs from rc4wd anyways, I just wanted something to "get me there" untill I can get the suff from the US...

Anyways, the TXT-1 are to heavy to consider using it in general off-road, the worst part is that the unsprung wheight are faaaaaar to great to make it well handling in rough terrain even when it's going stock full speed...

[4wdmt]

DCLXVI, it seems you are busy with your new toy. ur side protection with stickers looks good.

[krisI.925]

Im having some major problems with my steering. The other day i had a bit of a crash with a tree stump and the inside of the steering servo arm stripped. And that was a nylon arm that came with the servo. So after that happened twice I went to my lhs and got these dubro HD servo arms that were really big and looked great. It took me less than 5 minuts to break it in half. Is there anyway I can have something strong that works besides using a servo saver. They really dampen my steering and Iv even tried using the Kimbro #124 servo saver. Or is there an aluminum steering arm that is long enough.

[DCLXVI]

I'm not sure, but I think I saw an advertisment from a company making alu steering-thingamagigs...I'll go check...

[SteveK]

You really should use a servo saver: It won't be long before the pounding takes its toll on the servo gears and motor.

If you get an aluminum servo arm, it won't break but the gears will, and those are harder to replace.

[DCLXVI]

I found some here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0093p?&C=MGA

OFNA makes...and there are a few others...

[4wdmt]

wow, ur steering servo must be that strong. cant suggest anything though. hey KrisI, im still holding from doing 4ws on my TXT as you suggested. but having both of my diffs. locked, i need more steering. question: how unstable is the txt when using 4ws and how fast can you only go with that set up? thanks.

[DCLXVI]

I'm going 4WS on mine to...thing is that I have a radio with 3ch mixing (HiTec Agressor CRX) but I don't think it'll let me use the switch as a on/off button...just % mixing (like dual rate for the rear) or on/off (E-Maxx 2nd gear style shifting)...

[DCLXVI]

I just saw that www.imexrc.com seems to be selling alu servo-arms, just click on the R/C-One logo and you'll see a .pdf (Adobe Acrobat Reader) document witch (I'll never learn where the h goes in that word) lists some different stuff, alu servo arms are among them...

[Simen123]

The txt-1 sure is nice :D

I`ve ran the truck two times, the first on 6 cells, and the second on 12 cells :) Both times I ran it with a lehner basic 4200 motor, which is a bit small for this truck, but works well for me :) .

Do you guys use tire-inserts?
I haven`t glued my tires yet, since I am waiting for some ofna inserts from my lhs. But, I am not sure if it is the correct ones they are getting, and if not, I can`t want to wait longer to glue them (got quite some slipping when running 12cells..)..
So, I was wondering if it is sort of a must to get these inserts?

I also did not use the upper deck for the electronics, to try to save some weight :o .. I mounted the esc on the front of the "battery deck", and the reciever on the back-side of the front bumber. I think it looks a bit better without the big plastic piece too :)

Also, is there any handling difference when mounting the shocks vertically, instead of on the cantilevers?

[DCLXVI]

Try screwing your tires on...that way you can put foams in later...

Oh, btw, I heard from IMEX...they are working on "inexpensive" adapters for the TXT-1...mabey we don't have to spend 45 dollars on TTR adaptors and then 15 dollars on clod axles... :)

[mavrick0]

Inserts are not needed and the MP one's need to be slightly trimmed down for them to fit in a TXT tire. Using inserts makes the tires too stiff and will make the truck bounce a lot more then without since the tires do a lot of shock absorption along with the suspension.

As for going to vertical shocks that will make the truck more stable and better for racing but you will of course loose the articulation that the cant's give you. It is pretty much a trade off and comes down to what you want to do. If you want to rock crawl keep the cant's, if you want to race or bash I would say the vertical shocks would be much better and will limit such problems as the one tire waving in the wind on hard acceleration.

[krisI.925]

ya i do have strong steering, im running a 1/4 scale HS-705MG servo. I still have yet to find an aluminum steering arm long enough so ill just have to reinforce and arm or something, i dunno.

And 4wdmt when I was running 4ws it was with the stock motors and only 6 cells. At top speed (9mph) it would still flip very easily. But you can adjust settings and stuff to how much the rear end will actually turn so it wont be so drastic. Personaly I didnt like it after the truck went over 10mph. You can also do some mods that will give you tighter turning with just 2ws as well.

And Simen123 be careful with that set up. I ran my truck with that set up before and it didnt take to long before my controller fried. If your controller has thermal overload make sure you use it.

[Simen123]

Thanks for the tips!

Did you screw the tires on the rims on both sides of the wheel?
I checked in my hobbyroom and I found exactly 8 screws that will work.. Guess I will find out tomorrow if I need 8 more.

I will use the truck mostly for mild bashing, so I will try the vertical set-up soon :)

krisI.925:
What kind of controller did you use? I use a Schulze 12.97fwe controller, and it barely got warm after the 12cell run (but it was about -10C though..). It has a "thermal shutdown-protection" too, so I guess it should work?

[DCLXVI]

I haven't tried screwing the tires yet...I'm going to to that tomorrow...

[celittca]

Tips when building my TXT-1

Hi all, my txt-1 should arrive tomorrow. Any tips to make it really rock to climb? I am careless about speed. :confused: :confused: :confused:

things that I have for this truck

6 cell 7.2 battery pack
JR 3 channel XS3 radio
high torque servos


should I jb weld the diffs? could somebody tell me more about it?

thanks

[4wdmt]

thank you again KrisI. i guess i should buy some stuff instead for my txt-1.

congrats celittca. for SERIOUS rock crawling, lock the diffs. my tip, build it "as is", enjoy the truck, run it from every terrain immaginable and from there - check what other upgrades / mods you really need. have fun building it.

[DCLXVI]

A center skid plate are really nice to have...otherwise your gear box will be scratched....

[krisI.925]

Simen I was running a lehner 7018 controller with a heat sink and a cooling fan. But your ESC can handle almost 30amps more power than mine could so I think your safe. But I would still be a little caucious because my controller had thermal protection to but it didnt stop it from frying.

And does anyone no where rc4wd is located. I ordered some parts from them and wondering about how long it will take to get them to me.

[simtechray]

RC4WD.COM
270 Redwood Shores Parkway #117
Redwood City, CA 94065 USA

[Simen123]

Ah, I also had a 7018 for some time ago.. It fried in my touring car, when running a overgeared C40 6t in a xxx-s, which wasn`t very smart. It actually got quite hot when running with the Basic 4200 in the same car too.
What set-up to you use now?
I find the schulze controller to be much smoother, and the size is smaller too..

btw: I got 8 more screws today, so the each tire is now screwed to the wheel with 4 screws :) It was quite a huge difference from when I had not screwed them on..

[dont slow down]

i was wondering if there was any way to get more articulation out of my stock txt-1. if anyone knows any tricks, tell me!

[DCLXVI]

I really don't know about stock stock...I never put the original dampers on...I'm using DuraTrax Evader shocks (about 17 USD a pair on tower) that makes the front skidplate hit the front bumper and the rear upper link mounts hits the under side of the battery tray...

[krisI.925]

thanks simtechray

Simen I have gona away from BL since I really no longer have the time or the money to spend on . I am now running just the 2 stock motors that came with the truck on 12 cells with a super rooster with a cooling fan.

[Jeckler]

So my daughter and I decided to do some crawling in the living room. She even decided to become an obstacle at one point. My TXT is stock with the exception of bearings (minus the cants), and an SR. The servo of choice is a 645MG. No posing.

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/04.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/05.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/06.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/07.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/11.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/12.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/14.JPG

http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/suzuki/rc/15.JPG

[krisI.925]

why are my pics not working

[krisI.925]

ok lets see if this pic works.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hahaha!
pond in your lawn???

Is it floating?

[4wdmt]

how do u get the water off if it gets thru the tires?

BTW, happy new year guys!!!!peace:)

[Crawl Dagger]

Big TXT Parts lot for sale in the buy sell forum PARTS (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=152557)

[krisI.925]

No the water wasnt deep enough for it to float. The water usually will dry out of the tires after a day or 2 if any gets in there.

[celittca]

hi everyone,
I am in the process of building my txt-1. Should I JB weld the diffs now? I am into rock climbing and not speeding on this baby. Also which setp # from the manual should I jb weld? Also what's the advatange and the disadvantage???


thanks :)

[Jeckler]

I was tempted to lock the diff(s) when built mine, but figured I'd see how I like it first just doing it by the book. You might want to do the same.
As far as which step? When you get to the step where you build the diff, don't use grease, and use the JBweld instead. Hua had a good article on it... hang on.... here ya go: http://www.rcrock.com/diy1.html

Major advantage is greater ability to get over obstacles. Major disadvanges are lack of turning radius, and it's easier to break axles.

RC4WD just announced one piece locked diffs for the Clod. A locked diff for the TXT-1 is in the works. http://tinyurl.com/3yf4p

[4wdmt]

guys, anyone of you here went down a teeth or two on the original pinion of the txt-1? i just ordered a set of 12t and im just wondering hows the performance with lower pinions. thanks.

[Jeckler]

Slower top speed, yet greater control and torque. If all you're doing is crawling, it's a definate plus. I'm planning on going down to at least 12, maybe 10.

[4wdmt]

maybe its worth checking out. ill let you know guys when i my pinions come in.

[4wdmt]

radio question, does the JR XR3i have any mixing function that can make a the txt-1 rear servo 4ws on demand? thanks.

[dont slow down]

still no tips on more articulation??

[4wdmt]

maybe the guys are all on holiday break :D . anyway, i find extracting everybit of articulation on my STOCK txt-1 is by placing the zip ties all the way down. i think others even remove them for greater rock crawling articulation. i hope this helps.

and for my radio question, does the jr xr3i have mixing function that can make a rear servo for the txt-1 "4ws" on command. thanks guys.

[Dirk Digler]

As for the pinion question....I really like my 9tooth Robinson Racing gears. Combined with the very low 3:1 ring and pinions in my XFactor axles, I get a very, very low final gear ratio. My top speed is about 1mph!

And, as for the articulation question: of course, rule number one is to ditch the stock sway bars.
A trick that I used involves a simple mod: I use XTM 1/8th scale, aluminum shocks with Trinity Blue Monster Springs. I have drilled a new mounting hole in the plastic shock mount on the fixed end to accomodate the much longer shocks. I then used some ball spacers to set the shocks outward from their mounts. The stroke is about .25 inches longer than the stock shocks, which equates to about another 15 to 20 degrees of articulation. I have exactally 90 degrees of artic.

4wdmt.....I have asked the same question about my JRXR3i radio. I do not believe that it has this function but I would love to get an absolute, for sure answer. I run 4 wheel steering with mine but would love to have the push of a button function! Let me know if you get the correct answer.

[Dirk Digler]

Celittca,
There is no downside to locking the diffs if you only plan to rock crawl. This is the best and most important mod you can make to any crawler. Get the JB Weld out and get busy man!

[dont slow down]

i have already removed the sway bars, and i think ill try some longer shocks, thanks

[4wdmt]

1mph? holy! now that is crawling, lol :D. thanks dirk, we will be waiting for any reply guys.

[Dirk Digler]

Yep....1mph! Actually.....1mph, downhill with the wind!!!

[krisI.925]

has anyone tried those delrin tranny gears from rcwd.com. Im trying to make my TXT as maintnance free as possible.

[DCLXVI]

Are there any problems with the stock tranny gears? I'm worried because the spare parts availablility over here, is there any problem I'll need to order a couple of gear sets...

[4wdmt]

DCLXVI, very seldom do they post some tranny gear problems with the txt. unless of course they did some pretty heavy mod with their txt. so far so good on my side.

BTW, anyone of you guys tried series wiring on the stock motors? what do you think is the top speed if the motors are in series? thanks.

[krisI.925]

iv tried it. On 6 cells its like running with a dead battery pack. On 12 is like running stock motors.

And im just wondering if I should get a Delrin spur gear because mine is starting to get warn from all the use. But I do still have another one that came with the kit.

[DCLXVI]

Oh ok...I just got a bit worried there :o

Digler: It's more nice and relaxed here compared to RCU isn't it...:rolleyes:

I just had a go at painting my "spare" TXT body...did I say paint, I mean of course ruin...as usual...I just have to get better at maksking... :mad:

[4wdmt]

thanks guys, i guess there is no fun at series wiring :D .

[Dirk Digler]

This is a pretty relaxed forum!
Not enough hard core rock crawlers though.

***There will be a new web site devoted to rc rock crawling only very soon. there will be tech articles, build ups, reviews, events and a crawler forum. Anyone can contact me if they are interested.
peter.bach@regus.com

[DCLXVI]

Interessted how?

[Dirk Digler]

Like I said, you can email me and I will provide you with info.

[celittca]

anybody wanna build a new TXT-1 ? I am in the process of building this baby but I have to get cash instead of R/C at moment. :(

[Dirk Digler]

$100 and I'll take it.

[Jeckler]

I didn't really want to go the JB-Weld route of locking diffs, in case I didn't like the result, so I've heard of using Silly Putty. I actually bought an egg of it before I got the truck, but didn't do it at first. I wanted to see what the truck did bone stock.

I filled the diffs by putting MR14 (along with ME4) inside MR19, then put a ring of SP on top. Using my fingers, I pushed it all inside the gear housing. Then I put MR15 with its 3 gears in, and pushed that down into the housing, which forces the SP up and around it. Another ring of SP in MR20 with its gear, and then closed the whole thing up by just pushing it together. Since there was still some grease on the case halves, I was able to pull the top half back off, with the gear still stuck on the SP. Then I carefully cleaned off the excess SP that had squeezed out from the mating surfaces and screw holes. Carefully sliding the cover back on, I reinserted the cap bolts with threadlock. Once that was done, I used a toothpick to clean out the SP from the holes the axles go into, along with any SP left on the outside of the diff housing and in the ring gear. Reassembly of the axle went without hassle.

Yesterday, I did the rear end, and this morning brought it in to work to try it out on a rock pile that's out back. It's not 100% locked, as I can still turn the tires, but it takes some effort.
It did much better than an open diff. I only got stuck when I high-centered. I then took it up some gnarly hills, and it climbed those with ease.

I then did the front diff. Wow. Now it can climb almost anything. The tires seem to be the next limiting factor, but I think the Silly Putty does awesome. Next up is some smaller pinions for greater control.

I wish I had remembered to bring the camera.

I think I'll keep this setup. Hopefully I still have some shock protection, and won't be breaking axles that I've heard a solid diff can do.

[SteveK]

I might be trading for a Jugg 2 soon. Just to be sure, the Jugg 2 and TXT-1 parts work together, right? Like can I put TXT-1 axle case tops on my Jugg axles, or swap other tranny parts around?

[Jeckler]

The Jugg's tranny output shaft (and top axle input shaft) are 5mm, comared to 6mm for the TXT-1.

Anyone have info on putting wheels from a Savage, BFT, or even an XTM Mammoth on the TXT-1?

[chuckwagon123]

Hello, I am wodering how much a new TXT-1 cost in brick and motor hobby stores. Also what is a goood price for a used one.

[mavrick0]

You need Thunder Tech racing maxx adapter to use those kind of wheels on a TXT. Now those adapters are not made directly for the TXT, they are made for the clod but you can either modify the barrel nut that come with the adapters or add washers to work with the TXT or replace the TXT wheel axles with clod wheel axles and they will work properly with no modification or extra washers.

[simtechray]

They do make those adapters to directly fit a TXT-1, I use them without mods or washers.

[simtechray]

Doh,
I forgot I use maxx jumbo rims, they work without mods. Standard maxx rims need the washer, sorry.

[Jeckler]

Cool, that exactly's what I want to do. JumboMaxx Diamond wheels with JumboMaxx SwampDawgs. Now all I need is the money. :)

[SteveK]

Can somebody with the TXT-1 chassis or the blue hop-up chassis possible send me a scan of it?

[RDucky02]

I'm new to this message board but im active just about everywhere else. I own a tc3 that i race religously. i also own a tmaxx with a sirio .18 and i have too much money ito that as well. i also have a mgt that i and am on there message board near daily.

i just ordered a txt-1 and i am wondering your thoughts and how it compares to others cars and trucks. i have been preatty happy with all of my cars but im a big MT guy. i plan on running a evx with either the tital motors or the cameleon. i am gong to use packs that i use to fly my heli, a lite machines model 120. the packs are 7 cell 3300 race matched NiMh. so in short im ready to pick it up, just got the call and i want to get ur opinions before i go pick it up early saturday or sunday. also any ideas about switching motors.... maybe putting in an emaxx tranny with a hacker set up.... dunno, any ideas or thoughts.

[krisI.925]

Personly I dont think that the TXT-1 can get adiquit power from just 6 or 7 cells. I would suggest the EVX or another high power ESC with 10-12 cells with some mild motors. Iv tried a lot of power combinations in my truck, even brushless, and I like 12 cells with the stock motors. And I wouldnt get the emaxx tranny unless you want 2 speeds. And BTW you will probably want to get bearings before you build the kit.

[RDucky02]

im sorry you misunderstood what i said. as i said im looking at the txt-1 and i want your opinions of it compared to other cars you owned.

in reference to you saying its under wound on only 6-7 cells. i know that and i totally agree from what ive seen of it in action. when i said i was going to use packs from my heli i meant two of them. 2 3300mah matched nimh. so yes i will be running two batteries. im gonna go pick it up tonight... hopefully i will see some more replies when i look again later tonight... bye

thanks dave

[Jeckler]

I don't have any experience with an MT other than the TXT-1 itself, so can't help you there. However, I've heard of numerous people adapting the E-Maxx transmission, along with Titans and the EVX to their trucks, and having good luck with it. I would think that setup would be better for racing, as opposed to the stock tranny, Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems (or the stock kit motors) and an SR for crawling. The problem with the EVX is that it's low speed control leaves alot to be desired. The Novak Super Rooster is supposed to be much easier to control.
I know I didn't add much, but hopefully it helps a little.

[Jeckler]

Necessity is the mother of invention...

at least i think that's how the quote goes. In my case, it should be changed to read "Being a cheapskate is the mother of ghetto engineering".
The other day I picked up a 1/4yd. of rocks to build a rock garden in the backyard. I was on it yesterday, and cringed every time I'd drop a tire and hear a diff or tranny hit. So I decided to make some skids. Went by my LHS and picked up 2 4x10 inch sheets of .032 aluminum (thin, I know). I also went by Home Depot and got a set of files and some 24tpi jigsaw blades... neither of which I ended up using. Did you know regular household scissors will cut aluminum sheet?
I don't really expect this to last to long, especially the center skid, but it was fun. Next project is homemade extended links using threaded rod and aluminum and brass tubing.

Here's some pics...

The front before drilling the mounting holes. You can also see my preicsion measuring device (ruler from Disneyland that belongs to my 4yo daughter), sheet metal brake (a piece of wood from a broken picture frame) and high tech cutting shears (Fiskar brand household scissors).
http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/txt-1/frnt-off.jpg

Middle and rear skid mounted. You can also see where I removed the battery tray and mounted the battery crosswise in the frame. It's held in with zipties wrapped around the frame rails.
http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/txt-1/mdl-rr.jpg

Front mounted. I made the leading edge of the front skid about an inch longer (taller) to protect the front of the lower support.
http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/txt-1/frnt-on.jpg

The rear in comparison
http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/txt-1/rr-on.jpg

The skids are attached using the stock hardware that hold the lower supports on.
http://webpages.charter.net/cherrydoody/txt-1/frnt-on2.jpg

[RDucky02]

I havent heard any down sides about the evx... i like it better because i can run the 14 cells.... instead of only a limit of 10.... anyway.... i will use the stock motors for awhile and maybe then go with the titans but for now we'll see how it goes. i am just going to be bashing.... not racing so no need for the emaxx tranny, i wanted it because i thought the gear box was set up like the clods... motors on the gearboxs... not a center tranny, i found that out 2 days ago that its like the emaxx so no need to do anything there...

as for jeckler and his engineering, the best part was the Disney scale...(ruler for those in the real world). anyway im gonna start building tonight... ill have to get some pics soon of my three babies all togther... cant wait to see this baby rip.

any building tips would be appreciated...

as for locking hte diffs i want to see how it goes now. i ordered bearings... after i get the bearings ill lock everything down. just cant wait long enough for them to get here before i starting building.

dave

[4wdmt]

RDucky, half of the fun with the txt is building it, just take your time. comparing it with my other EP MT (e-maxx), it has its purpose, and thats to crawl and climb over anything (most esp. when you locked the diffs). you will be amazed how it can articulate over anything. but when i need the fix for speed, i run my 7 cell e-maxx.

BTW, just be carefull when running EVX and dual packs on the txt with the stock motors. i fried them (stock motors) in just a few run, though, its worth seeing the txt-1 do wheelies.

yup, run it as is, then upgrade what you think is necessary. have fun.

[RDucky02]

Anyway.... I started building it and i looked over the manual... Few questions and requests.

1. how did you set up the 2 packs in the chassis?
2. did you use the stock radio plate or build/make one?
3. How are the stock shocks? upgrade to AE or traxxas?
4. glue the tires although it says not too?
5. running 4WS or only 2WS? im assuming your running 4 if you diffs are locked to get more steering and for crawling...

i plan on using the evx with a mx3 fm 3 channel receiver... and a hobbico 70mg or whatever... stole the receiver and the servo from my tmaxx. i dont know what i want to do with that... i didnt want to have to come back to where i was when the parts arrive, i wanted to be able to put hte electronics in then. the evx will be a bit harder... doing ebay.... 85 bucks... run the stock motors till i toast em... then decide if i want soemthing with torque, like some emaxx titans or some fast modifieds... anyway i didnt want to assume anything cuase all it does is make an as* out of you and me... (ass-u-me... for those that are a little slower)

so if anyone can send me pics or post them or leave detailed descripting i would appreviate it greatly you can email me at

RDucky02@aol.com

if you rahter do it that way, otherwise posting is great because others can see and critique or get ideas.

dave

[Jeckler]

1. Stand the packs up on their side, and put them in the tray. You say the cover doesn't fit now? Hehe, go to the hobby shop and pick up a set of body posts for an RC-10. They're white (or black) nylon, about 1/2-5/8 inch tall. Install those. You'll need to drill out the holes in the stock cover to fit over the new posts.
2. Mine's stock for now, soon to be replaced witha a flat plate. To many little posts and holes in it for the electronics to sit flat. I had to install the stock MSC cover and tape my ESC to that.
3. If you want to, sure. You might want to experiement with different springs if you keep the stock set. I'm not sure where the stock ones fall as far as tension though. AE shocks will probably be smoother.
4. Use screws instead. See the holes in the bead of the wheel? Use sheet metal screws, about 3/8 long.
5. I'm running Silliy Putty front and rear, but only have 2WS. When I get a two stick radio, I'll be getting another servo and setting up rear steer. For now, it's passable.

Stock motors aren't going to last to long at 14.4 volts. I highly doubt you'll be able to go SLOW enough to make crawling an enjoyable experience. You'll have some good speed though.

[DCLXVI]

I tried to fabricate a custom radio tray but I only got hold of 3-4mm plexi glass and that breaks to easily. The thing I did was to use a Dremel to cut away all the posts and uneven parts to make it possible to mount all the hardware with out problem (mind you, I'm running a 5xAA hump pack for the reciver and that fits to)...

I'm using DuraTrax shocks, they are cheap and adjustable (IIRC the AE shocks are really cheap to but I think that they are shorter than the DuraTrax shocks)...16 USD a pair RTR (normally I'd recommend kit for but not for dampers, they are a pain to build)...

[Dirk Digler]

Pics of my new TXT crawler. Cut chasis and all. 5.25 inches of clearance under the tranny!!!

[Dirk Digler]

Pics of my new TXT crawler. Cut chasis and all. 5.25 inches of clearance under the tranny!!!

[Dirk Digler]

another

[Dirk Digler]

last one......sorry about the double post up there!

[RDucky02]

hey DCLXVI,

which duratrax shocks? did you know there alot of em? i sure didnt, then i tried finding em and i ran into a whole lot of em... yea so which ones you using, prolly 3 or 4inches right? got my reciever and servo in, everything is ready to go.... just need to wait for my evx... bought one for 95 dollars on ebay, then he refunded it because he said hte wires were loose so anyway, it was new, so i found another one on there that had been there for 16 mins selling for 50 bucks.... wow. anyway, cant wait to rip. i know i wont be able to rock crawl like some of you wiht my set up but i can always reverse it, plus i dont have many rocks around here... i have about a foot and half of snow and a 3 foot high curved ramp. every seen a monster gt that weighs over 12 pounds... i installed a second fuel tank... ever seen one jump seriously like forever in the air... wow, i mean its a sight, uve seen jumps but once u see something that jumps from my street to the middle almost end of my lawn and can almost do a full flip ull want one. yea so i dunno.

have fun

dave

[DCLXVI]

These: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAMK2

They are the rear shocks for the Evader ST...I'm using the green (hard) springs and 40w oil, nice and smooth works really well...

[Dirk Digler]

www.rccrawler.com
go check it out. It's still new but we need articles written now! Everyone should thank Jason for putting in long ours to create this new site.

[chuckwagon123]

I just got a TXT-1 and it is a mammoth! I need more turnung abillity. I have a good servo up front and would like to stick a cheapy in the back for kicks.

I bought the truck used so I need to know what I need to power two servos at once. Is there some sorta Y connector for this? What ever I need, where would I get it?

Thanks for the help!

[chuckwagon123]

Actually I think I will pull the good servo out, jrRacing DZ8450. More for carrs then Monster trucks I guess. Transit time isn't a concern when going 8 mph.

Any ways would these be good servos?

Servos servos servos servos (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3172439877&category=2563)

[DCLXVI]

Fair torque but awfully slow...remeber that you can get Hitec's HS-945MG for 74 USD at Tower...

[chuckwagon123]

But that auction is for two servos, not one.

[DCLXVI]

Then they are really cheap...

[Dirk Digler]

Originally posted by chuckwagon123
I just got a TXT-1 and it is a mammoth! I need more turnung abillity. I have a good servo up front and would like to stick a cheapy in the back for kicks.

I bought the truck used so I need to know what I need to power two servos at once. Is there some sorta Y connector for this? What ever I need, where would I get it?

Thanks for the help!

Also, remove the steering stops on the knuckles!

[Dirk Digler]

check it!
7 Inch tall, BFT Tires on TXT wheels.
Want to learn how to do it? Tech article coming soon at:

www.rccrawler.com

[chuckwagon123]

Where can I get parts for my TXT-1? My lhs can't get them. I need a 3x133mm threaded shaft, 4 body posts, and two axel guards.

Let me know if you've got them and don't want them. Or a link to where I could get them.


Thanks.

[mjohnston39]

try RC4wd.com. Carries OEM and aftermarket parts for the TXT-1.

Mike.

[DCLXVI]

www.rc4wd.com if you want hop-ups or www.towerhobbies.com for stock spares...

[tl01_staniland]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
Driveline clearance is fine with Maxx sliders (larger in diameter than stock) and the servo barely touches the upper link under full artriculation (Driver's side front compressed).

A simple 3mm aluminum tab under each of the servo ears will get rid of any hint of the servo touching the link.

Once I'm done with the link mounts I'll get the servos mounted. haven't done any work today. Wife is feeling bad and I'm keeping tabs on Megan.

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/megan/shockoil.jpg

i was just readin through thsi forum and saw that pic... that would be a good pic for a shock oil advertisment LOL !! ;) :D :p

nice truck project twin

[krisI.925]

hey are there any bodys that are a direct fit for the TXT-1. I really kinda need a new one cause the hole duct tape thing just looks bad.

[mjohnston39]

IIRC most bodies for the maxx line right up.

Mike.

[Jeckler]

I think they all do. IIRC, the bumper slots might need to be made wider, but the body mount holes are in the same spot. I think Savage bodies are the same as well, but not sure of that.
Obviously, I'd get one that didn't have the heatsink and fuel tank holes cut out.

[DCLXVI]

Well, since the Savage are MADE to use the same bodies, wheels and everything I'd guess that the Savage bodys would measure about the same as the maxx ones...

[rustlerman1]

here are some pics of my brother txt-1!!

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119081893&security=hhvddt
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119082421&security=RKKAiq
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119082645&security=smtWBM
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119082845&security=MoydEd
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119083158&security=mzzqQy
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119083371&security=epRYdi
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119084922&security=rIuECs
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119085154&security=KpjzmV
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119089012&security=XcpUkc
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119089188&security=RBzcHo
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119090099&security=EdrknF
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119088798&security=eliuUj
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119089669&security=yUkChp
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119089940&security=SpQLHo
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=119081495&photoID=119090307&security=mVMgHT
i will get more tommarrow

[DCLXVI]

Pics don't work...it says I have to log in...

[rustlerman1]

here you go sry bout that guys. http://community.webshots.com/album/119081495ZHesdi

[Information Man]

very nice pictures !!

has your brother done anything special to his TXT ??

[rustlerman1]

Information Man-thanks,he has a new era aluminum skidplate, blue aluminum body mounts,duel magnetic mayhem,super rooster,7 cell battery,9t pinion gears,locker front and rear, and also he has some jumbo swamper boggers, but he needs rims for them. He hopes to get every thing aluminum by the summer!! it will look crazy!!

[DCLXVI]

I did some thinking today and removed the front and rear bumper (the skid plate hit the front bumper) and the battery tray (the rear upper links hit the battery tray) so I'm mounting the battery sideways through the chassi plates now (secured with two rubberbands, anyone have a better suggestion?)...I also mounted the antenna horisontally between the front and rear pody posts...I'm not really sure that it is 100% but it seems to work really good...

Is there any mod avaiable that lets me move the steering servo? I'd like to get rid of the skid plate to increase the approach angle to >100 deg...

Oh, and I installed another HiTec HS-945MG, 4WS!

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_351.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_352.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_353.JPG

[dabait]

Do the tires clear the battery when the chassis is articulating?

[DCLXVI]

The tires are not even close...

[krisI.925]

Hey are any of you guys doing anything to help protect your ESC from water or anything else as such. Iv got my elivated on a plate above the normal mounting plate but I would like to do a little better. And also has anyone replaced there electronics mounting plate cause the one that comes stock realy bothers me.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by krisI.925
Hey are any of you guys doing anything to help protect your ESC from water or anything else as such. Iv got my elivated on a plate above the normal mounting plate but I would like to do a little better. And also has anyone replaced there electronics mounting plate cause the one that comes stock realy bothers me.

I modified the stock one by cutting all the mounting holes and elevated areas on it...now it is flat and very nice :)

[krisI.925]

ya iv done that too, and iv added a sealed reicever box but i want something thats more flat tho.

[DCLXVI]

It's easy enough to make a radio tray...just take som thick lexan and cut it to right size...I've done this with plexi glass but that cracked to easy...

[krisI.925]

Iv been trying to find some thick lexan but im not sure where to get it. Where can I buy it from.

[DCLXVI]

Try Tower...

[Jeckler]

Lowe's
Home Depot
OSH
ACE Hardware
etc...

[Dirk Digler]

Want to make your TXT-1 a better Crawler? Want advice from real RC experts?
www.rccrawler.com

[DCLXVI]

Made some mods yesterday...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_372.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_373.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_374.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_375.JPG

[hyperstang]

Well...

I just got in my TTR Ripper TXT 1 chassis from HUA (rc4wd) and this thing looks nutz. Want to run something different for this years finals.

I just need that gear boxes now...anyone have a rolling chassis for sale?????

Race on.....

[4wdmt]

hyperstang, can you post a pic of the chassis kit? whats your comment? quality, design, finish.....

[hyperstang]

Sure no problem, I may need to pick up a used TXT 1 on ebay or maybe just buy a new kit for the axles, tires, rims...

Will start on it soon...

Race on...

[krisI.925]

hey how do the rest of you guys have your steering set up when it comes to servo savers and stuff. It seems like no matter what servo saver/arm i use it either snaps or stripps. And I cant find and aluminum arm long enough that would work.

[hyperstang]

I've used a Kimbrough heavy duty servo saver with no problems at all...

Race on...

[krisI.925]

ya iv gone thru 2 of those. The first one I had the case broke and the second got stripped out. Iv had some good luck with the Ofna HD servo saver but it keeps on stripping to. I ordered and aluminum arm from tower yesterday so hopefully that will hold up.

[DCLXVI]

I've been using the stock red HiTec arm...but I've stripped that one once (when you are running with locked diff and 4WS, don't make a full turn at full speed on a high-grip carpet, I'm using BigJoes, they give more grip than the stockers)...

[newracer]

Originally posted by krisI.925
hey how do the rest of you guys have your steering set up when it comes to servo savers and stuff. It seems like no matter what servo saver/arm i use it either snaps or stripps. And I cant find and aluminum arm long enough that would work.
I was using Kimbrough servo savers but have recently changed to Hitec aluminum arms. What servos are you running?

[krisI.925]

Im running a Hitec HS-705 servo. I ordered a Hitec metal servo arm but it didnt fit the servo. What part number are you running?

[DCLXVI]

I was out running some today with the new new era center skid and the mag mayhems...I like the speed of stock gearing and the mags...to bad it was more of mud bogging than crawling though...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_378.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_380.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_379.JPG

[krisI.925]

mud bogging is always fun. Heres a pic of my newly modded electronics.

[krisI.925]

hey do any of you guys have any drive gears you can sell me. Part #58232 if you do email me kris925@hotmail.com

[nitecrawler]

Has anyone used a lower battery mount, like the one RC4wd sell?
What effect does it have on handling/stability?
Does it alter the TXT torque roll situation?
What does the kit come with?

[nitecrawler]

I've got a RCLine 'No Limit' ESC. I currently run my TXT with one 7.2V pack. Can I run an additional receiver battery pack to the receiver? What difference would it make? Does run time improve because servo power is supplied by the receiver pack? If so what effect is there on sevo torque?

[DCLXVI]

I haven't tried the RC4WD battery mount but I think that it would be better to mount the battery in place of the electronics...IE, mount it above the motors (the thing I have problem with when crawling is tipping over backward going up something to steep)...

[DCLXVI]

Nitecrawler, I don't know of that particular ESC but all the ESC I've seen doesn't supply more than about 5v to the servos, that is less than 6v...also, I've noticed that I can't drive my TXT at all w/o my reciver pack, I'm guessing that the BEC can't handle dual HiTec 945 servos...(I've got the LRP F1 Pro)...

[nitecrawler]

thanks- but the reason I want to move the battery is more complicated. I'm using the TXT chassis/drivetrain as the basis of an autonomous camera platform I am building for SFX applications. What I'm looking for is low C of G, stability, and mor space up top for all the other electrics.

[nitecrawler]

Nitecrawler, I don't know of that particular ESC but all the ESC I've seen doesn't supply more than about 5v to the servos, that is less than 6v...also, I've noticed that I can't drive my TXT at all w/o my reciver pack, I'm guessing that the BEC can't handle dual HiTec 945 servos...(I've got the LRP F1 Pro)...
Thanks. I was worried about cooking the ESC or receiver by using two battery packs. I have found the steering is very weak, so you're saying that if I use a 5 cell receiver pack servo torque could be better...right?
Cheers
Jon

[Janders]

Nitecrawler, I don't know of that particular ESC but all the ESC I've seen doesn't supply more than about 5v to the servos, that is less than 6v...also, I've noticed that I can't drive my TXT at all w/o my reciver pack, I'm guessing that the BEC can't handle dual HiTec 945 servos...(I've got the LRP F1 Pro)...

The SuperRooster is supposed to put out 6v, and it does have considerably more torque for steering than a 4.8v ESC, although I've never actually tested the output voltage.

[DCLXVI]

I don't really know how the BEC vs. reciver pack thing works...it worked w/o problem with my HiTec HFS-04 reciver and LRP F1 Pro rev ESC...

You could mount the battery the way I have, it will save you a little bit but it requires you to get rid of the rear bumper...

Remove the battery tray and mount the battery transverse in the holes in the chassi...that will not help you lots, but I think it is better, secure the batt with rubber bands that sould do just fine as you don't crawl...

[krisI.925]

I have a 1/4 scale servo and it only really works well with my Super Rooster. The others I have dont realy supply enough power. And you dont nessecarily need to disable your BEC. You can connect a wire harness to your servo. And then connect one lead to your ESC and the other to a battery.

[nitecrawler]

what pitch gears does the TXT use - is it 0.6?

[krisI.925]

i think its 32 pitch or 1mm.

[Tamiya4ever]

I am going to use my stock oil shocks on my TXT-1, but would like to know what size springs to use. Are they 4" springs? And can I use the spring set for the Terra Crusher shocks? Thanks. :)

[Janders]

I just bought a bunch in bulk, and they are great for rockcrawling at 7.2v, or speed at 14.4v. Can't beat that for less than 1/2 the cost of Titans(with slightly more speed and torque). email me @ janders211@yahoo.com if you are interested


[img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/rccar/XF.JPG]

[img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/rccar/XF2.JPG]

^^ Can you no longer link images? Or have they changed the code?^^

[DCLXVI]

I'm sure am...are they better than the MAg Mayhems @ 7,2v? And what are you asking? 10 USD? Will you ship to Europe?

[Janders]

I've never had mag mayhems- but I can compare them favorably to the Titans @ 14.4v. At 7.2v these aren't high RPM, but have great torque. I have tested these rigorously(overgearing, high temp, etc). These have been run in my Wild Dagger, and others' emaxxes, and the results have been pleasing. Here's a short .mov of them in a wild dagger.

http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/rccar/XFmotors.mov

I will ship worldwide (price dependent on destination, but Global Priority(6 days) was only $6 to Singapore). Price is $7 each for my first 20 I sell, and the rest will probably go on ebay. They are 22 X 2 550 with a 12 bladed internal cooling fan.
paypal me at janders211 @yahoo.com (without the space before @)

I have 100% ebay rating(janders7) and am really looking just to get a bunch of these motors out their for exposure, so I can sell more(thus the low beginning price).

[DCLXVI]

I'll take four...I'll mail you later with details...

[nascar3]

Hi guys, anyone have the txt 1 manual? I need the part numbers for the rims and the plastic hubs they attach to. Thanks.

[Janders]

Nascar try this it's Tamiya's TXT exploded view from their site

http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58280e.pdf

DCLXVI - how do you like the motors?

[RDucky02]

Hey,

I bought a txt-1 over the winter and built it. Im running the stock motors, but I emailed janders about his he has. I might get some of those, most likely them or the titans for the emaxx. i have a the EVX and am running 16.8V... 2 7 cell 3300 NiMh packs matched and zapped packs. xxl fm with an m8 on the other end. hobbico hi torque steering servo. Ive only driven the car once. Ive been out of electric for the last 4 years. My last electric was a rc10t3. anyway i run mostly gas (monster gt, kyosho 7.5, txt-1, electric heli, ntc3)and i was surprised to see how much water the mud bogging pictures had... few quick questions:

1. what did you do to the truck in order to get run in water without risking damage to the electronics? or did u just risk it and hope for the best?

2. do you run with the sway bars? or with them but without the zip ties?
3. any mods i should do right away?
4. is it natural with the cantaliever suspension when i pop a wheelie for the wheels not to be completly even?

[DCLXVI]

Nascar try this it's Tamiya's TXT exploded view from their site

http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58280e.pdf

DCLXVI - how do you like the motors?

I haven't gotten them yet...besides, I nuked my LRP F1 Pro :(

RDucky:

1. I thought balooning the ESC was enough but read my msg above :¨( Filling it with vaseline or something might do the trick, or to fit a radio box...
2. I run w/o, I mostly do crawling stuff, witch brings us to...
3. Lock the front and rear diff...atleast for crawling...4WS are nice to...
4. Yes, It works that way, it's usually called torque-roll IIRC...

[Janders]

Electric motors work fine, completely submerged(I've actually got a short movie including a Wild Dagger actually floating(motors submerged) as it 'paddles' across a 3 foot deep creek. What gets hurt is the ESC and reciever. I have sunk my Super Rooster Twice..once I had to get it fixed by Novak and the other time it just had to get blown out with compressed air.

If you enclose the ESC(balloon or tupperware + grommet) you can go anywhere with an electric MT.

BTW:
YGM

[RDucky02]

I would probably enclose the receiver in a ballon or similar protectoin with some grease sandwiched between two zip ties at the hole. As for the ESC does it matter that the heat sinks get warm and could melt the balloon? FOr that reason I would go with tupperware prolly however is it bad that Im not cooling the ESC? Have a good day.

[Janders]

If you aren't overgeared you shouldn't have to worry about heat, BTW- I also meant to say that you must have the reciever in the balloon too.

[4wdmt]

quick question guys, what radio are you using for your "4 wheel steering on demand"? can i do it with a jr x3i or xs3? thanks.

[DCLXVI]

I'm using a HiTec CRX, you have to fool the radio some but you can have selectable 2/4WS with the press of a button...

[4wdmt]

thanks DCLXVI. what do you mean "you have to fool the radio?" is 4 wheel steering hard to program?

[DCLXVI]

It means that you can have two profiles for your TXT, one 2WS and one 4WS and then when you run it you can be in the programming menu and switch withe the menu buttons...it's no a thumb button but it is still just one press...you could also have different settings like different propotionallity (it that a word?) and change those settings the same way...

Janders: I got the motors yesterday..they look nice, I haven't tried them yet...I'm waiting for my ESC (about 130 USD to repair it :( )

[Janders]

130USD just to repair!! Ouch- I had an EVX repaired for $25, and a SR repaired for $45

[DCLXVI]

The ESC was totaly destroyed, it not being repaired it is being replaced by a new unit...I probably could have gotten it cheaper if I sent it to the US but I the shipping and everything would probably add up...

[4wdmt]

thanks DCLXVI. you guys must have been abusing your ESCs :D .

[RDucky02]

You guys do antying to the batteries at all so they dont get fried with the water? I am almost done with the waterproof batterybox. Should be posting pics hopefully.

Dave

[Janders]

Oddly enough, I've had no problems submerging the batteries completely, although I do get a lot of dirt in them :D .

BTW- DCLXVI, I just realized I overcharged you on the shipping for those motors (lol! although it did take me a few weeks to catch!!)- you should see my partial refund ($5) by tonight

[DCLXVI]

Weee :D thanks...If I had won an ebay auction I could have left some good feedback :)

They are CHEAP those motors...if they are even as good as the stockers, they are GOOD value...I also like that the caps are presoldered... :D

[RDucky02]

I gave up on the waterproof box...... We'll just leave it at that. I might go evetually for the balloon look but truth be told I dont have that much water around here... I will prolly do moderate water running but I wont be doing it that much.

[krisI.925]

ya so I broke my rear sway bar today. Does anyone know I can get a replacement for these besides spending 62 bux on a parts bag at tower.

[DCLXVI]

I could send you mine free of charge (I'm not using it) but since I'm in Europe, the USPS would probably just think that is a bomb or anthrax ect, besides, it would take days if not week for you to get it, and it would cost a few $$$ to ship it (about 5?)

[krisI.925]

Thanx but its probably not worth it. I think um just gonna make one from a wire hanger or something.

[RDucky02]

I got my txt1 out for the first time today. My first time was in winter with the stok motors for about 30 seconds. so i got titans from an emaxx and the evx and 2 7 cells 3300NiMh batteries in it. The truck absouletly was a blast to drive, that is before the pinions i put on the titans the night before decided to loose a set screw. then it was all over... so this time i lock tited them and found out that the long sleeve washer was not put back in from the night before.... good thing those pinions slipped. so ill have to take it out again 2marra.

but i couldnt help but noticing under power the truck leaned very very hard to one side. I mean very very hard to one side. anyone else have this problem or solution?

[4wdmt]

same here and so is everyone with txt-1. it will "twist" more when you put some mod motors with loads of torque into it (or just like your present set-up: evx, 2-7 cell and titans). i got used to it and that is with stock motors only. but some guys do something about that - they wrench on the suspension/shocks, like putting more pre-load collars or heavy shock weight oil on one or two opposing shocks. i dunno, maybe someone experimented with this already.

[Adanmtxt1]

hey! yeah, i've test driven a txt-1, and am going to get one, and the txt-1 has a makor case of body roll when accelerating. not with a clod, though. but with the txt1, atleast you get the motors up and out of the way of danger. :cool: . do you guys have any reccommendations for skidplates and front bumpers (txt-1)? thanks a ton

[zippy]

I am planning on getting a TXT-1 and I just found out that it does not come with a complete bearing set. Could some one give me a list of bearings I would need to complete the truck?

[BPPSupermaxx]

Look at www.TXT-1.net

Under forums...then under TXT. I think its under mods or tips. Its pinned and sasys TXT bearing list.

[4wdmt]

adanmtxt, get a center skid plate, it will protect your tranny and help prevent the truck from "hanging" on some obstacles. what bumpers are you refering? the one on the body or the axles guards?

[DCLXVI]

The front and rear skidplates are according to me best left stock (if you put some of the aftermarketskids on they will interfear with the trucks off-raod capabilities)...

The center skid, I think that the new era one are the nicest...

[BPPSupermaxx]

I have anew Era center skid. That the only skid I want. Its super thick. It looks great too. It really helps the center to slide over a rock or something.

[Adanmtxt1]

I was thinking about for the axle guards. I have heard that the stock ones are flexable, and because the steering servo is mounted there, the steering suffers. Is this true?

[DCLXVI]

If it is true, I have not noticed...

[-=ADA$=-]

was just wondring, how much run time do you get from one pack ( or is it two packs) lets say 2400-3300 mAh?? just a question!!

[4wdmt]

with my set up, stock motors, stock gearing, super rooster and 7 cell 3000nimh stick pack - around 10-12 minutes full throttle running. but with slow rock crawling play, around 15 min. or more.

[-=ADA$=-]

no way, its alot, and with just one pack?? great, you know any place that has cheap TXT's tower has good price but shipping to where i live is horrible, so maybe other place some asian shops?? thanks

[DCLXVI]

I know your predicament ADA belive me (I think we already disscussed this, yes?)...

Try http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/ Hong Kong

or

https://www.hobbynet-jp.com/english/hobbynet.html Japan

[4wdmt]

yup, its true. thats why sometimes i like bashing with my TXT-1 than my E-maxx.

[-=ADA$=-]

yea, i know and sorry for the confusion, but as far as i remember i wanted a crawler, now i have some cash ( but not enaugh yet :() and i thought clod will be cheaper, but as far as i read, out of the box clod i weak in crawling, and cheapest chassis is about $150 so total will be more than TXT, thats why im searching

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey guys, what axle guard and skidplates do you run? i like the new era skids, but i dont know if the stock axle guard is satisfactory. i hear it might not be. :confused: thanks.

[mjohnston39]

I run New Era F/R skids and the vertigo center. I went with the Tamiya axle guards because I found them cheap on the Bay, but I would suspect all of the aluminum guards are pretty much the same. There are a few sets of GPM axle guards on EBay now if you're interested....


Mike.

[mjohnston39]

I should also mention that I went with the New Era skid plates as these were to only ones that covered the entire factory plastic plate and also wrapped under and around the axle.

Mike.

[4wdmt]

stock axle guards works fine as DCLXVI mentioned, and you wont see any difference with the aluminum ones. but i bolted tamiya blue ones F/R for added strength and security, and of course - style. the center skidplate on the other hand protects your tranny and add more rigidity to the chassis. a nice investment.

[Adanmtxt1]

do you guys think that bearings are a must? i don't run a complete set in my clod, and it works just fine.

[mjohnston39]

I run a full set on mine, easier to put in when building then after. As far as essential, you could probably get away with running the metal bushings with the stock motors. However, it's not that expensive to add the bearings so I would still suggest using them...

Mike.

[4wdmt]

i use stock bushings and bearings on mine. now that i like to puts bbs on it, im too lazy to tear it apart and replace the bushings. i should have done it also when i put silly putty on the diffs. anyways, if your putting mod motors into yours, i suggest installing bbs when you are building the kit.

[Adanmtxt1]

So, in reality, the truck doesn't really NEED bbs, so much as they are nice to have, right? I may as well get em. When i get the TXT-1, I will get a JR XR2 i (i have an XR3 i for nitro) and put my clod and TXT-1 in model memory, so i can switch between trucks. cool, huh! :cool:. that, and new era front/rear skids and center vertigo, right?

[DCLXVI]

That depends on how much crawling you'r going to do...
If you are intending to crawl it, screw the front and rear skids and go with the new era center skid...

[Spoon37]

So, in reality, the truck doesn't really NEED bbs, so much as they are nice to have, right? I may as well get em. When i get the TXT-1, I will get a JR XR2 i (i have an XR3 i for nitro) and put my clod and TXT-1 in model memory, so i can switch between trucks. cool, huh! :cool:. that, and new era front/rear skids and center vertigo, right?

if you plan on running at anything other than a snails pace, then BB's are a must - some peeps like bushings in the cantis as they says its more solid or that theres less play in it that way(I ran BB's in the cants, never had a prob other than the cantis allowing too much roll for my liking). fact is Tamiya realise that some bushings do wear out real quick, hence why some of the kit has BB's - but any kind of revvy motor will cause serious firction/heat in bushings. also BB's increase runtime and power efficiency no end, and all they need is a lil bit of oil once in a while.....

;)

[Adanmtxt1]

thanks, guys! :) DCLXVI, you don't think front and rear skids are necessary for rock crawling? Thats what i am going to be doing a lot of.

[DCLXVI]

Well the problem with using the (new era) skidplates are that they sticks out to much in front, between the tires so your approach angle gets screwed up...the stock skids stocks out to much by themselfe and the new era sticks out even further...

Try going for a kit that moves the steering servo to the other side of the axle instead, that will improve the crawling performance considrably...

[-=ADA$=-]

there are couple of sets of bb's on ebay, and price is between $9-$15 so you think it would be enaugh??

[Adanmtxt1]

www.rc4wd.com (http://www.rc4wd.com)

check this out if you haven't already. it has just about everything! it has a nice bb kit that i will probably get, too.

[RDucky02]

As most of you now Im more of a basher than a crawler so I took out hte txt1 today for the second time ever. Wow. I had alot of fun today. However I encountered a few problems and broke a few things. Cantavilier trucks and huge huge jumps dont end so well. the truck took the abuse but most of the time it would roll on to its side or roll unless i landed right. I really like the truck and yes, the truck leans so hard because of the torque of the motors as you said, it leans one way when going forward and the other in reverse. but the truck rocked and i am very happy with it.

Anyway, i was wondering if theres any aftermarket cvd's or equilvant for the drive lines attahced to the tranny.

[krisI.925]

I have always used the traxxas 2.5 sliders. There not the best replacement but there cheap and last a little longer.

[mjohnston39]

RC4wd.com should also be offering their new super shafts in the near future, at 90 bucks, somewhat expensive though.

Mike.

[Adanmtxt1]

what are the super shafts made out of to make them so $$$? For that much, the had better be machined titanium, or i would spring for the Traxxas sliders.

[RDucky02]

the old .15 tmaxx sliders or the new 2.5 sliders?

[Adanmtxt1]

I didn't realize they were upgraded in the 2.5 package! Which ever ones fit. If the 2.5 fit, i would put them in (assuming they are better). They look better to me, too. They look more realistic (thicker and stronger looking). :cool:

[Adanmtxt1]

When you guys built your TXT-1's, did you have any wobbly cantilevers? I read in RC Car Action that this occurs. Any other building tips/problems would be appreciated.

[4wdmt]

Adanmtxt1, hmm, i dont know what you mean by wobbly, but they work pretty fine if ever. the kit is relatively easy to build, the instruction is top notch and all materials fit perfectly. its a little bit time consuming, but its rewarding at the end. take your time and have fun.

guys, question, if i will replace the ball links with the DU-BRO swivel links combo, what will be the size i should order? anyone tried changing their stock ones? thanks.

[mavrick0]

I've converted my stock ball ends to the Kyosho 6.8 ball ends with hardend balls and then conical washers as well as going to 25mm studs. This is probably the strongest and most durable combination. I've have stripped or broken one of these ball ends yet and I've bashed my TXC and TXT hard. RC4WD has a conversion kit you can buy with all the stuff you need. Considering these ball ends are used on the kyosho 1/8 scale buggies you know they are tough. But don't go with the aluminum balls with stands. I was told by a couple of the buggy guys they wear out very quickly and tend to break.

As for the Maxx shafts they do fit but you need to trim down the yoke on tranny side or it rubs againist the tranny case.

[4wdmt]

thank you mavrick0, so, those kyosho ball ends and studs will fit nicely w/o modifications?

[Dirk Digler]

For all of your rock crawling answers:

www.rccrawler.com

[RDucky02]

quick questoins:
anyone do any custom work to make the truck a bit bigger?
or use the new era conversion to make it a longer wheelbase?
do you guys glue the tires or leave them unglued because there isnt a slipper clutch?
just looking for things to do.

[mavrick0]

Yes and no about the direct fit. If you want them exactly the same as the stock then you need to cut them down slightly but only a couple of mm's. But if you just slap them on without mods then it will lengthen the wheelbase but not enough to affect the drive shafts or anything. Also keep in mind the problem some people have with breaking the upper link mounts on the axles can be eliminated with this conversion because you can use longer screws to go deeper as well as using stronger material then the brass balls.

RDucky02 I glue my tires but only about 4 drops around the inner and outer beads so if I need to remove them it won't take me long or destroy the rim. They do act like a slipper but as soon as they get a little bit of dirt or dust in them then they slip like you wouldn't believe and it is just not worth it. Throttle control is a much better way of dealing with landings rather then a slipper. As for custom parts or links check out www.defianceracing.com. Mike does excellent work and I've had him make me a lot of different stuff for my trucks and it's nothing but the best. Also check out www.R C M T.net(without the spaces) if you want to see guys with bigger TXT's using stuff like jumbo kongs on trucks.

[4wdmt]

thanks again.

[4wdmt]

mavrick0, you said you bash your TXC and TXT, whats a TXC? is it a custom MT you built? just curious.

[mavrick0]

mavrick0, you said you bash your TXC and TXT, whats a TXC? is it a custom MT you built? just curious.

TXC is my Tamiya Xtreme Clod. Using the stock TXT chassis, custom links, and clod gearboxes.
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Threesome.JPG
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Threesome%20a.JPG
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Threesome%20b.JPG
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Threesome%20c.JPG
L to R: TXT-R, TTR Ripper Clod, TXC.

[4wdmt]

very nice trucks. thats what im also doing right now. putting my new clod gearcases to the stock txt-1 chassis. all stock links, suspension and cantis goes into it. can i request for a naked pics of your txc? thanks.

[RDucky02]

okay..... time for the sliders... those stupid metal ones are gonna burn in a fire pit... they keep falling out and im like grrrrrrr. so yea. got blown away by my bros brushless emaxx but i really dont mind. i like my truck. besides, i then took out my picco. 26 mgt and blew the balls off his chin. have a good day, time ofr me to go thorugh my old maxx parts.

ps... awesome trucks

[RDucky02]

i further request the nakedness, but of all 3... threesome shall we call it?

[Adanmtxt1]

RDucky02, I agree. Every time I take out my clod, i lose a race to my dad's Nitro RS4 Racer 2 with an RB engine. he mocks me a little ("oh yeah, nice truck, lotta torque, but where did it get you? hahahaha"), but i still love my trucks.

[RDucky02]

took the truck over to my parents again to hang out with my brother and help stain the fence. had some fun with the trucks. i couldnt wait for my brother to destroy his truck, never happened, instead i destroyed the entire front end of my txt1. i hit the light post and nothing happened at all, swirved around my brother and hit it head on with the left side. just rolled and went on. then it happened a little later... went off the jump, you get some serious air on it (cantalivier suspension doesnt do some hot but i love seeing this truck fly) but i caught the front tire and it just ripped the trucks fornt end apart. the two outside silver bars broke lose from the supports int he front that support the axles and bumper. and another one attached to the top of the front diff. anyway, both gray parts in front that support the axles and bumpers got ripped apart where the silver ball stud threads in. the car looks awesome in its damaged state. oh well, buy some new parts and go from there. anyone running aluminum counterparts of theese?

[DCLXVI]

I belive that www.rc4wd.com will have you coverd with alu...

[RDucky02]

anyone put the emaxx transimmision is there truck? i was thinking about doing this and ive heard alot of people have done this. anyone of you out there done it?