Tamiya TXT-1 v3.0

[mavrick0]

Here's a pic of the E-tranny in mine.

[RDucky02]

i have a guy offering me the emaxx tranny with two titans for 45 dollars... i wanted to put it in, so not im considering it more and more. how close did it fit? if i put it in with the stock plastic radio plate could i still use a center skid or would the tranny sit too low with the stock radio plate?

why did u put it in? what do you use your truck for? and was there a performance increase?

sorry for the godly amount of questions but i just never saw one in a truck before.

[mavrick0]

Yes all the stock stuff does work. I just used the carbon fiber radio/battery plates from Xtreme racing to lighten it up. Just keep in mind that the E-tranny spins backwards to the stock one so the battery box and RX/MSC plates have to be flipped along with the tranny.

The fit is fine side to side but I had to slightly notch the shock mounts for the ears on the motor plate to fit.

I run a New Era center skid plate without a problem and would recommend one since there's a lot more for something to catch on the E-tranny versus the stock. If you put one in buy the Vertigo E-tranny mounts from RC4WD.com. For only $10 they are worth it and nice and simple compared to the Thunder Tech one's.

The reason I went for the E-tranny was because of the slipper clutch, easy of changing motors and pinions and the fact I can change the spur and pinions not just the pinions as in the stock TXT tranny.

The truck it is in was purpose built for racing and racing only. And yes there was a boost in performance specially when you can knock it into second gear and get a much higher top end. Just keep in mind though that the E-tranny is heavier then the stock but I personally think the easy of pinion changes and gear changes and slipper clutch make it worth it. And for $45.00 with a pair of titans I would say go for it.

[-=ADA$=-]

im probably become proud owner of TXT and i would like to know what would be cheapest forward only ESC to handle twin motors, stock for now, and maybe sometimes better ones ( but not lower than 23T) what would you say?? first ill get 2 3000 epic packs, and 9 tooth pinions, and i would like to have esc with brake

[DCLXVI]

I think you'd like a reversible ESC...anyway, try lookin at a controller that manages down to 11 turns, that way you can use Kyoshos Magnetic Mayhems witch are some pretty good motors...

[-=ADA$=-]

i would prefer rush motors or like this, theyr very cheap, and singles, so i think it would be my way to go, but i first need the truck, and pakcs :(, than ill have to switch my receiver from 1/8 buggy to TXT :(

[DCLXVI]

The mag mayhems are 22x1 (22 single) and 550 sized so you get loads more torque from it...they are avout 20 USD each so they are not that expensive, Janders here sold me some motors that seems nice ( have some but I've not been able to test it since I haven't got a speedo at the moment) they were like 8 USD each or something...

[Janders]

The motors I sold you are 22 turn 550's (I have about 50 of them)
92 amp stall draw, 550 m/nm tq.

550 (like the mag mayhems) size motors since they have a longer armature and thus longer winds, and therefore have a current draw equivalent to higher turn 540(stock) motors.

So a 22 turn 550 has about the same draw as a 27t stocker.

A good rule of thumb for ESC's is to 1/2 the turns to get minimum requirements. Since you're running dual 27 turns or equivalents, you would want an ESC that can handle down to 13T motors. Duratrax has some cheap reversible ESC's for around $60 to $80 that can do this.

Honestly, I wouldn't 'cheap out' on an ESC. I'd go with a higher quality ESC like a Super Rooster,LRP, or Mtroniks. I have burned up many ESC;s and if I had to do it again I would have started out with the Super Rooster

[DCLXVI]

I'm thinking about the mtronik e-truck esc for 150 USD since my LRP Pro F1 smoked (I got water in it) and a new replacement are very expensive and seems to be backordered from germany...

[bongo]

regarding the maxx sliders, does anyone have the traxxas model #'s for the items i need to replace the stock shafts. also, i read on the last page that the yokes closer to the tranny need to be trimmed. could you please describe what you did and how you did it? i haven't had to change anything on my truck yet so i'm looking for a little guidance. thanks

[DCLXVI]

I did a whole lote of modding on my rig today:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_403.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_404.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_405.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_406.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_407.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_408.JPG

I've got some clerance issues, mainly the servo hitting one of the upper links and the steering hitting the lower link at full steering and full artic...but I don't know if I really need to care...

[Adanmtxt1]

nice installation! are you sure that its thick enough?

[DCLXVI]

It's 1,5 mm of raw alu so they won't hold up that great but they are pretty simple to make so...

I did my last skid out of the same material and that one held until now but it didn't have that much mileage on it...

The thing is that the alu is extremly soft so it's really easy to cut it and it is quite strong and won't flex yet it is easy to form since it stays in the shape you force it to take...also it's cheap and light...

[minijosh]

I got my first txt-1 and here it is. It has the evx esc with twin 17's. Phat 40 series tires and masher wheels. Now I need the wheel wideners. This is gonna be a race truck. The rear is locked and so it the steering on the rear. What else can I do?

[DCLXVI]

New Era center skid...

[mjohnston39]

my txt-1

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/tc_userimages/562/img562_05042004014846_main.jpg

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/tc_userimages/562/img562_15122003080859_1.jpg

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/tc_userimages/562/img562_05042004013916_3.jpg

Mike

[-=ADA$=-]

so i wont cheap ot on it but than it will take some time to get it ( no cash :() and what would be cheapest recomendable ESC to get, i dont want super rooster cause i will be using one pack at a time. and about the motors you have, when ill have cash im sure ill get a pair or two. A dn nice TXT mjohnston

[4wdmt]

ADA$, i would agree with the other guys here. dont cheap out on a good ESC, even if you have to wait for the cash. run your txt-1 stock for the meantime with the msc. then go for the SR or LRP or other hi-end esc with no motor limit. its worth the wait.

mjohnston39, nice clear pics. seems your truck had a real workout that day.

guys, anyone here using a thunder tech. txt-1 ripper chassis? just wondering whats the performance of the txt with that chassis. i just used my stock txt-1 chassis to a set of clod axles. i need to do something with the front / rear axles and center tranny. :D

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey! I just ordered:
1 Airtronics MX-3 radio
2 New Era Front/rear Skid Plate
1 New Era Center Skid Plate
1 Airtronics Micro Reciever M-8/MX-3 (extra for the clod)

my camera is workin', so if you guys WANT to see it, i GUESS i COULD put some pics up, or should i wait till the loot arrives? :D :D :D

[RDucky02]

hmmm. i want to add the emaxx transmission and upgrade to aluminum axle carriers... the stock one broke... time to raise the credit limit on the visa...

[minijosh]

Hey guys, i just broke the B-4 part on the tranny. Does anyone have a spare one?

[minijosh]

Man now I just broke the front hub. I'm not gonna race the truck until I fix it all. Stupid me. Running a broken truck outside off a small jump just to please myself. Well it worked though. My jack russel h8's the truck but I'm in love.

[Jeckler]

i dont want super rooster cause i will be using one pack at a time.

The SR only uses one pack at a time. I think you're thinking of the EVX, out of the E-Maxx.

[-=ADA$=-]

oh i thoutght it can handle 6-10 cells, but i may be mistaken, if so ill try to look for it, but now im on such a tight budget that ill just leave the TXT on shelf for some time :(

[DCLXVI]

I'd save my money and get a Mtronik E-Truck...waterproof, 6-12 cells and higher frequencey than the LRP F1 Pro...I've seen it for 150 USD so it's not the cheapest but it looks like it is the best...

[Adanmtxt1]

I am sure this isn't what you're thinking of, but my brother has a super rooster in his emaxx (don't ask) and has 2 packs wired in parallel. Same performance as 1 pack, twice the run time. I thought about putting 8 cells together, but didnt do it.

[-=ADA$=-]

Adan thats what i plan to do in future, but 666 what do you think about other mtronics ESC's?? some seem to be greatly priced, and give good performance, but as i said, even if ill have to wait for it, i wont cheap out on ESC, but dont want to pay fortune for it

[DCLXVI]

I saw the E-Truck listed at 40 USD at www.hobbypeople.net but on the web-page it is listed at 150!?! I'll have to send a mail and ask what they are doing!?!...It could be a deal that starts next month, in that case, I will order the E-Truck ESC...at 40 dollars, it CAN'T be matched...

[minijosh]

They always screw up the prices. So does horizon hobbies. I called them on a $200 rtr xxx-s but they said it's a misprint and you need to add another $100 to the price. So I bought me a TA04-SS

[DCLXVI]

Isn't there laws in the US that regulates that kind of stuff? Here if a company advertise a price and forgets to print that it may be a misprint, the printed price goes...

[DCLXVI]

Also, some new fab work:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_409.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_410.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_411.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_412.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_413.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_414.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_415.JPG

[-=ADA$=-]

so it isnt $40?? it would be great!! but another thing, about putting the links to top of the axle do i just screw them in, or is there something else to be done??

[minijosh]

They put at the bottom of the page in small letters, Prices subject to change so that covers their butts.

[-=ADA$=-]

Could you supplie me with pic of the top of the truck without the body?? i think im missing radio tray, ill post pics when possible, but in my case motors arnt covered on top :(

[Adanmtxt1]

That sure is nice. even so, i would rather get the new era parts (which is what im doin) than do my hack job. the stupid new era shipping is taking 6 days to ship even though i got the 3 day shipping. my brother fried my evx so i couldnt run my trucks even if i wanted to. :mad:

[RDucky02]

Adamtxt1- i have an extra evx in working condition. i was going to put it up on ebay. one of the reciever wires is severed and needs to be soldered but its in working condition prior to that. PM if your intersted in it.

Waiting for an emaxx tranny and some alum axle carriers... cant wait... in the mean time i can stare at the stroms in the midwest

[Jeckler]

oh i thoutght it can handle 6-10 cells, but i may be mistaken, if so ill try to look for it, but now im on such a tight budget that ill just leave the TXT on shelf for some time :(

No, you're not mistaken, it handles 6-10 cells.

[DCLXVI]

Cold someone make a comment on my fab work? I wan't to know if ther's any use of mounting them or if you think it will crap out on me after five minutes...come on, you don't have to be polite... :rolleyes:

[mjohnston39]

The only thing that really stood out to me was some of you mounts don't have a lot of meat left in them where the bolts are, may or may not be a problem depending on how much stress that area is under. Looks good otherwise.

Mike.

[DCLXVI]

Thanks, it was a pain to get the upper links back in there as usual, now I have everything mounted and I think I need to add some spacers to the upper links, the axles have a small amount of caster angle...

The only thing you have to do to mount the lower link where I have is to remove the plastic spacers from the link, drill out the hole on the axle guard with a 2 mm drill and add some washers at the ball joints on the chassi side...I have to experiment some with the upper link though, but I think that adding one of the plastic washers from the lower links and adding them to the upper link (one to each) would even out them out...be sure not to over tighten the lower link though, it hinders travel...

My front steering servo hits the upper link and limits travel some but it think it's little enough to warrant the placement anyway...

I know I have somewhat little material left of the axle guards but I thinking of getting new ones...but I don't think it will pose that much of a problem...

[Adanmtxt1]

Is it me or just the picture, but in the fifth pic down, the steering servo looks a little off. that's a pretty ingeneous setup! i hope it works. anodize the metal!!!
Rducky02, my brother is 11, and he cant pay for a new one for me. im gonna get a new one myself, but thanks anyways. :)

[RDucky02]

did we all die?

and i got an e maxx tranny, alum axle guards, center skid and e tranny adapter all in the mail. yay me. and thats without upping the credit limit.

[minijosh]

I think we are all waiting for parts from inetrc.com to arrive. I know I am.

[theramman]

Anyone know if clod wheels fit the TXT?

[mavrick0]

They will and they won't. The 5 pins on the back of the Clod wheels are smaller so the wheel will move around on the TXT wheel disk holes. Also the area where the wheel nut sits is thinner on the clod wheels so the nut actually bottoms out on the threads before it actually tightens up on the wheel so you need a washer.

[theramman]

How about using the Clod hub on the TXT-1 axle, then the clod wheels?

[RDucky02]

you can buy adapters at RC4wd.com

[hua15]

I will start shipping these probably end of next week:

http://rcrock.com/product/rcalloy/txt/spool/1.jpg

http://rcrock.com/product/rcalloy/txt/spool/2.jpg

http://rcrock.com/product/rcalloy/txt/spool/3.jpg

http://rcrock.com/product/rcalloy/txt/spool/4.jpg

http://rcrock.com/product/rcalloy/txt/spool/5.jpg

http://rcrock.com/product/rcalloy/txt/spool/6.jpg

http://www.ezboard.com/image/posticons/pi_shocked.gif



-Hua @ RC4WD

[RDucky02]

any one wiht an emaxx tranny... what gear combo you running with what motors and esc?

thanks dave

[-=ADA$=-]

how much would be that spool?? loks really nice, and should lower rotating mass

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey guys, sorry I haven't gotten any pics up. I have 4, but it seems as though i can only get one per post. for that reason, ill only put on 2. Hope you haven't gotten tired of the stock body yet :) . I have the New Era front and rear skids, N E center skid, an Airtronics MX-3 radio set, and a Hitec HS-645 MG steering servo (can you believe 164 oz-in @6v?!)

[Adanmtxt1]

And one more.

[Janders]

Odd that Hitec changed the specs on the 645 MG, but didn't change the name...164 oz/in for $50 isn't too bad :)

[DCLXVI]

Hua:

I like them...I'm probably going to order two pairs (as soon as I'll notice something else I need since I live in Sweden)...

[-=ADA$=-]

here mine finnaly

[-=ADA$=-]

another

[-=ADA$=-]

next

[-=ADA$=-]

more

[-=ADA$=-]

and more

[-=ADA$=-]

and some more

[-=ADA$=-]

and last one for now

[-=ADA$=-]

i know its notrhing fancy, but its finnaly mine :D now im gathering money to get some electronics

[4wdmt]

nice and clean ADA, now save for ur electronics and make it dirty :D

[-=ADA$=-]

trying as hard as possible, ive already found a great crawling spot, about 4X4 meters of stones that are like 0,5 M in size, great place!! just dont have electronics to run it, dang!!

[Janders]

I just made a nice new shiny TXT/Clod...After getting it all together I decided that there was no way I could take it out and trash it (purpose of my other, very similar crawler. Sniff, Sniff, I'm moving...and I can't justify a RC that just 'sits there' to my wife...maybe someone else can give it a happy home.

[minijosh]

Any photos of the wife? I wonder if my wife will mind having another around the house? BRB I'll ask.

[DCLXVI]

I guess she might agree if you also agree on taking two more full-time jobs...and that will be required to support two wifes...

[Janders]

well you won't have to worry about those 'tough to open lids anymore

http://www.ftvideo.com/genex/FTVnews/images/6_11/102383_jpg.jpg

[DCLXVI]

Augh! :eek:

[dabait]

Any photos of the wife? I wonder if my wife will mind having another around the house? BRB I'll ask.

... and that was the last anyone had seen or heard of minijosh.

[minijosh]

I'm emailing you from the other side of the veil now guys. Never ask a wife to take another wife into your house. All my rc stuff is up for sale now that I'm gone. She's starting the bidding on ebay at 1 penny.

[Janders]

:haha:

Consider yourself lucky, at least she left didn't Bobbitize you!

ADA$ -
Nice truck, crawling is always a good way to burn a lot of time...I've got a few 'truck killer' rock/concrete piles close to my house where I can flip my clod/txt on it's lid.

[-=ADA$=-]

ok, ive finished my servo mount ( for front only- not enaugh time and material) and made some temporary link mounts, so i dont have anything before my tires, its not great, but seems to work, il post pics if ill get a hold on digi cam!!

[DCLXVI]

ADA$: You'll can do this while you wait for the ESC:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_410.JPG

Only, the skid in the pic are really to small, it needs to extend beyond the front of the axle (in the rear at least). I'm planning on doing this both front and rear...the servo hardly sticks out from the axle...

Jander: The XF motors, will they work good @ 14,4v, I think you told me that they would but I can't remember for sure...

Anyway, I ordered the Mktronik Super E-Truck ESC from Hong Kong yesterday...116 USD + shipping but since I'm not in the US...ordering from Tower aren't that much cheaper...
The Mktronik ESC has some pretty nice specs, down to 15T dual motors, 3,2kHz freq and best of all, it handles 7,2 - 14,4 volts...and it is waterproof!
I think that I'll try running the motors in serial and @ 14,4 volts, that way they should get 7,2 volts each...but I just thought, won't that make it the same as 7,2 v in parallel, only better run time?

[RDucky02]

DCLXVI- i was wondering what the purpose of those "rods" are on the axle guards that are there. I bought the alum ones and they even have those "rods". the two things ont he axle guard that could be steering limiters but htey arent long enough. anyway i noticed on your truck that you put the ball stud into there... did that improve anything or is it because you cut off hte rest of the axle guard and you needed somewhere to mount the axle guard.

also i want to lenghten the truck but the only way i can see that is buy using longer silver rods but i dont know where to get longer ones...

[DCLXVI]

I put the ball ends up there mainly to get clerance for my front steering mount:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_415.JPG

And I also put it like that in the rear so I could cut more of the guards of and move the servo alittle closer to the axle...

The only thing that is neccecary to du the mod (moveing the lower links to where I've put the balls) are to drill the hole (it needs to go straight though), to remove the plastic shims that the lower links has and then put a small shim on the inner mounts (or else the ball ends hits the chassi when atriculating)...

[DCLXVI]

ADA$: For the record, I was writing my post when you posted...

[Janders]

DCLXVI- yes, those motors are designed for 14.4v....7.2 is nice for crawling and long runtimes ( I almost always use 7.2v)...but 14.4 is fast :) and they still will last forever.

[DCLXVI]

I'll install a 7,2/14,4 v switch in my car...it will select either two batts in series or parallel :D

[RDucky02]

since were all posting so close to each other does that make you wonder if we're all at home or just majorly slacking at work?....

[Janders]

DCLXVI- You'll need a high current switch/relay that can handle it, otherwise sounds like a good idea.

[minijosh]

Man I keep finding broken bits in my TXT-1. Does anyone else find it hard to steer when on the gas? My front tires seem to lift up and I have Mashers and Outbacks on the corners too. If I installed a servo with alot of torque, will that help out that problem? I think all the ball studs are stripped and put in with JB weld. This thing is falling apart. When you built your trucks, did you put thread lock on the metal screws????

[banditdrifter]

Yeah my TXT is giving me a few problems. The steering is weird beacause of the way the truck torques over on the throttle. It turns better left than right.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Anybody know where I can find information on putting the traxxas sliders on the TXT-1?

[-=ADA$=-]

as far as i know the ones from 2,5 fit without mods, but i cant say how, never tried it

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I'm not positive there is mods either, unless it involves shaving away a tiny bit of the tranny case. Also not sure if you have to cut down the sliders for a stock wheelbase truck. Please let me know guys!

[DCLXVI]

Only thing I've ever heard is that they are to long...you have to cut a peice of them...

[RDucky02]

i have the sliders but im running an emaxx tranny. i had to cut a significant amount of the slider down. buy the diff to wheel (long) sliders and you should be fine. then just hacksaw or dremel them down to size.

[-=ADA$=-]

Or make it longer wheelbase :D

[SteveK]

That steering problem when appyling throttle is common to ALL 4WDs, and it is compounded by the fact that the front will rise whenever you give it some gas. The increased wheel speed just causes the front tires to lose grip and the vehicle will push. Rally racing teams spend millions of dollars developing torque-splitting electronic differentials, but since we really can't do that, you'll just have to let off the throttle to get sharper corners.

More torque in the steering servo will always help, but it won't give the front tires more grip when they spin from getting on the gas in mid-turn.

And you should always apply threalock to any screws that go into metal or metal nuts without a nylon locking strip. Doesn't the truck come with a big tube of threadlock?

Man I keep finding broken bits in my TXT-1. Does anyone else find it hard to steer when on the gas? My front tires seem to lift up and I have Mashers and Outbacks on the corners too. If I installed a servo with alot of torque, will that help out that problem? I think all the ball studs are stripped and put in with JB weld. This thing is falling apart. When you built your trucks, did you put thread lock on the metal screws????

[RDucky02]

also in my opinion what you are reffering to is because the one tire is letting loose during acceleration while in reverse the opposite does. this is because of the torque of the motors and the cantiliever suspension on the txt1. put on some more pre load collars on the socks or run stiffer anti sway bars, i found doing both helped me alot.

[RDucky02]

i put the emaxx tranny is and im trying to figure this out. i think i have to head to the hardware store because im not finding a cure... with the emaxx tranny in i had to switch the plates because ot tranny spins the opposite way.... so my question then is how do you get the battery tray to clear the motors with the emaxx tranny in there... i think i just have to get some 1 inch spacers to raise the battery tray, just wondering what others did as well

[-=ADA$=-]

as i know its possible to put battery tray on both sides??

[DCLXVI]

Do as I did, make your own radio/battery tray, just make it totally flat and you won't have any problems...

[RDucky02]

the problem though then is that I am running two batteries, not once so by making a battery plate flat all i do is incresae my troubles, not fix them.

[-=ADA$=-]

Hey 666 how much i you pay for shipping from HK?? shipping of ESC??

[DCLXVI]

111,43 (ESC) + 12,13 (Shipping), I had it in five days...thats fast!

Ducky, I run to batterys aswell, I have zip-tied one to the body post holder...

[RDucky02]

DCLXVI- got any pics? i should have mine done in the next few hours. I will post a few pics of my new hotness #2

[mavrick0]

RDucky I don't know if you figured out the solution to your battery problem but with my TXT-R project I used Xtreme Racings carbon fibre radio/battery plates. They are identical for both sides of the truck of course all you need to do is order 2 plates with battery cups and you now have your dual battery mount equally spread out between the front and rear and they won't sit as high as if you use the stock battery holder and raised it up with spacers.

[RDucky02]

my fabrication work... as you can see it looks like i have one of the screws to screw in a bit more. with more weight over the tires it should help when i wheelie in first gear. but i will have to test run 2marra. till then this is what i have....

[RDucky02]

more

[RDucky02]

so after driving the truck today...

1. loss of steering
2. stupid stupid quick

so i went to dremel a few things to clean it up and decided that i owuld try reversing the radio and battery plates because with the 2 batteries over the front end jumping will be bad, i cant pull a wheelie, and the steering blows. i have a high torque servo... anyway i reversed it and it all worked fine. actuall kinda like it better like this. so we will see how it does tomorrow. best of luck with your trucks

[RDucky02]

oh also. JANDERS! those motors ROCK

[Janders]

Good to hear!

[RDucky02]

went out with some friends... the more serious ones talked about politics, the other talked about july 4th and the pursuing under age drinking (note to police: when i say under age i only mean maturity wise; note to others: i mean a bunch of college kids drinking!) so anyway i got bored and remember i had my txt1 in my car. low and behold the parking lots and islands got torn up and then my driver got a bit thirsty...

[-=ADA$=-]

Ok so im finnaly getting super rooster :D and hopefuly ill be able to drive my TXT before end of my hollidays ( 1,5 months more) cause ill borrow RX and steering servo from my buggy and ill try to get battery pack somwhere :D

[4wdmt]

just curious guys, what ESC, motor and pinions are you using? how fast/slow does your txt go?

[RDucky02]

I am using an EVX running 16.8V (2 7 cell packs), with the XF motors from our man Janders there, and using the stock pinions. However I am running the emaxx tranny and using the stock spur on that. Soooooo, because of that I am running very very fast. I am able to keep up with my brothers emaxx without a problem.

[RDucky02]

I'm thinking of increasing my wheelbase by about 1.5 inches through this auction i found on ebay. however i dont know if i really want too. any of you increased your wheelbase? like it, hated it? what were your performance gains or loss's? any response will be greatly appreciated.

[DCLXVI]

I don't know about wheelbase but I've heard that about 15-15,5 is a good wb...

I'm running an Mtronics Super E Truck at 14,4 v but I'll go back to 7,2 v as I'm not that interrested in speed...the Mag Mayhems and I guess the XF motors give quite nice top speed at 7,2 v...

[RDucky02]

rim question... will the clod rims fit on the txt? will the jugg rims fit on the txt? i think the tires all are universal but the rims i dunno.... anyone out there know?

[DCLXVI]

The Clod and TXT uses the same tires and I think that the TXT and Jugg uses the same rims...

The small holes in the Clod wheels are smaller so they won't fit w/o mods...

[DCLXVI]

Hmmm...wonder what I was smoking, the holes aren't in the rims so perhaps it will work, I haven't tried...

[-=ADA$=-]

they would fit but they would wobble cause of hole size difference, and finnaly im finalizing a deal on used super rooster, hopefuly ill get it soon and will be able to give my txt first run :D

[DCLXVI]

ADA$: You are AJF (or was it AFJ?) on RCCrawer right? Did you get my PM?

[4wdmt]

thanks guys. what is the spec of the XF motors?

[DCLXVI]

550, 19x1 and cloes endbell, that is what I know...

[RDucky02]

bit more torque that the titans at 7.2V and more rpm than the titans at 14.4... i run em at 16.8 and run with emaxxs....

[4wdmt]

thank you guys, what do you think is timing of the motor and how much do they cost?

[-=ADA$=-]

yea its me AFJ, ok i see it now, sorry i didnt check earlyer. Ill post reply there ok??

[DCLXVI]

Sure...

[teampeter]

Hey! How many of you have seen Bad Boys 2? If you have, is that a TXT1 that blows up the army men's soccer game? If this has been asked before, oops. The chassis looks just like a TXT chassis.

[RDucky02]

Actually I have the movie rented right now, and its 2 days late... Ooopps...

Anyway, yes the truck in the movie that blows up in the army men's soccer game is the txt-1. Its modified and no longer has the cantiliver suspension but upright shocks similar to most truck but most to the jugg 2 or clodbuster. when i saw the movie in the theater i just about jumped out of my seat when i saw it pop out from underneath the ice cream push cart. it was an rc car in a movie theater.

In RCCA I read an article awhile ago about R/C being in movies and tv shows and one of the movies they mentioned was bad boys 2 with the txt-1. i knew a pro grade car was in the movie but i didnt know which one. and this sparked my interest in the txt-1. i went and read about it and did some research, and low and behold I bought one... good advertising or person with deep remote control emotinal needs... you make the call...

[fulbore4x4]

Hey guys! Just purchased a NIB with the shrinkwrap still on the box txt today. I have read on here some things to get and here is the RC4WD shoppin list so far.

Bearings
Cant. Bearings
Super Chicken
2 Spool Gears (This is going to be a crawler only)
Monster Shocks
Hex Screw Kit
HD Steering linkage kit
And when he gets his old design beadlock back some of those

Anything that I missed?

[4wdmt]

full ball bearing before you assemble the truck, pinions with lowest no. of teeth (i think the trans. plate can accept 9t) if you are into crawling and a hi-torque servo.

[fulbore4x4]

what are the stock pinions that come with the kit? Will the cs80 work? Or should I put in a quarter scale servo kit?

[-=ADA$=-]

stocks are 15T 32 pitch, and CS is 1/4 scale servo as i remember, i think it wont fit but ill check when ill get home, grab my callipers and measure it!!

[fulbore4x4]

With a dremel, anything will fit lol

[DCLXVI]

I'd go for a normal sized servo with good torque, such as the HiTec HS945MG...

[RDucky02]

airtronics 94358....

[fulbore4x4]

I am going to be using 4ws, so should I run the same servo for the rear as the front?

[DCLXVI]

Yes 

[-=ADA$=-]

i think its not neccesary, of course it will work better with same servos front/rear, but would work with different

[DCLXVI]

ADA: Did you get my PM on the other board? I'm leaving tomorrow and I don't know when I'll have net access after I leave...

[-=ADA$=-]

yea i got it, ill mail you from my mail, and we can contact like this

[fulbore4x4]

So what has everyone be up to? Anyone do any new mods to their txt's

[RDucky02]

let my dad drive my car. i dont live with them anymore but i visit. so before my wife and i left for vaca with them (sep hotel roomms of course) i wanted to drive my cars one last time. so after running my mgt i let my dad take control on my txt1. he quckly learned that solid axles trucks do nt handle like his tc3. that was after rolling it very very hard. i was having a heart attack when i saw it. pretty pointless story. but it was fun answering the quiestions my dad had because its so different than anything he's seen. with that said i hope everyone is out and about enjoying there truck.

dave

[DCLXVI]

My and my cousin will have some pics of his rig tomorrow after we have aquired some new screws (M4) to fasten his new dampers...

[fulbore4x4]

Yeah I am still assembling mine...I am missing bearings. But it is coming along really well. I may be getting the TTR emaxx trans conversion for it so it may come partially back apart.

[-=ADA$=-]

tommorow i think i should get my RX for TXT iv got of this board, than wait for the ESC :(

[-=ADA$=-]

ive got my SR :D:D ive did test run around a flat and its great, i just love it, i was running 8 cell 650 mah pack and it lasted for about 10 minutes of very slow driving around a house, i just love it!!!

[zippy]

Hey guys what radio is best for 4 wheel steering?

[mdewitt71]

I have TXT w/Super Rooster and PK2 Pro Copperheads, Im not sure what size of pinions they have but am gonna take it apart tonight. It has SUPER Torque, just punching it foward quickly puts it standing on the rear bumper.

My question is if I want to set it up for speed and say drop in 16T motors, what pinions should I use?

[vintage_steeps]

Hey guys im wondering if you guys can answer a question for me? I have 2 titans on my txt and my evx burnt or something ? So will a super rooster handle the titans and will they get enough power?

chris

[4wdmt]

the super rooster will handle your titans either in series or parallel. but it wont give you 14.4 volts for your titans just like your fried evx. the most number of cells that the SR can handle is 8, which is 9.6 volts.

[-=ADA$=-]

as i know SR is rated at 10 cells (12V) and it will handle titans but so should EVX, and about pinions if you want more speed go to about 20, stock is 15T

[4wdmt]

im sorry, ADA is right, it is rated up to 10 cells. so it a little less to your evx voltage. btw, how did you toast your evx?

[DCLXVI]

I've heard that you can run the SR on 12 cells but it will require cooling (a fan mounted directly above the ESC)...

I'm using a Mtronik Super E-Truck and that one will handle 6-12 cells (might go even lower but I can't remember), it won't have full power in reverse though...
It is somewhat cheaper than the SR if you are outside of the US, if you are in the US, I don't know (I got it for 110 UDS from HK)

[vintage_steeps]

Thanks for the info guys! I actually tossed 2 old futaba esc in w a y harness and it works fine not as much power though so i think i will just toss in stock motors or something for the time being. I wish someone would just make a bullet proof dual batt / motor esc already. That super e truck is good but wont handle to many cells. The evx is great but burns out to much even on stock titans . If someone came out with an esc like that i'd pay . Just my 2 cents

chris

[microrcdude]

well, if you go brushless, they can handle more cells.

[-=ADA$=-]

but BL wont give you stopping power, itll jump into revers, where have you been 666? its been long time

[DCLXVI]

The Super E-Truck handels 12 cells...how many do you want to run?

[vintage_steeps]

I have a few 7 cell packs which would make 14 so you see my problem. I honestly dont see the use of brushless i mean yahy they are energy efficient, and super fast w gobs of torq but all that money you could toss 2 sr's and some d5's . And buy more battery packs for the lack in time and these items are interchangeable as well as being usable in more applications then a brushless . God forbid for some reason the esc fries ouch . I think i will stick to the good ols stuff. Sides in another year we'll be buying these things for half the price on e bay .

( W brushless money i could buy an e maxx rtr)

[microrcdude]

( W brushless money i could buy an e maxx rtr)but you wouldnt want to do that!

[vintage_steeps]

why not e maxxes are awesome trucks . I have one and i have never even broken anything other then the body. Definetly would rather have an e maxx then a bl

[vintage_steeps]

Hows it going everyone? Im wondering if i can put some of those monster truck gurus to the test hear a little? I have a few motors and im wondering which would be the best for me? What i need are specs turns timing and torque? However any info would be great. ! These are the motors i have
1 Speedworks monster mash 2 motors
2 Kyosho Mega Motor (360 monster truck )

Anyone know anything about these ? I dont have any info on them and i cant seem to find any either?
Also i have heard you can toss 1 motor in your txt and get the same power ? Sounds rediculous but i have to ask .? is it true?

[zippy]

I am also wondering which motors to use in my truck(still in the box). I will be using super rooster for my esc. looking for torque.

[-=ADA$=-]

as far as im concerned mag mayhem is preferable, and also many people use reduction units

[4wdmt]

stock motors are torquey. try them first. though, i never had the money to upgrade the motors, lol.

[DCLXVI]

Well, mag mayhems a about 20 buck per motor...and they are GOOD...

[zippy]

I was thinking about a pair of trinity arcornite (19 turn single), or I could just use an EVX and a pair of monser maxx wilds.

[MT Dude]

for torque, you need 2 of these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEXU3&P=7

1. they are cheap (you cant beat $8.50)
2. not many people can say they have 600 sized motors in their r/c car
3. with just 6 cells wired in series, 2 of these things will power my TXT-1: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174313

keep in mind that i use an emaxx tranny with 9-tooth pinions, if you use the stock tranny, it will actually be geared a little lower which will give you even more torque id say go with the permax 600's

-Chris

[-=ADA$=-]

and does it bolt right into TXT mounts?

[MT Dude]

now that i am not sure about, i do know for a fact that they do in the emaxx tranny but i am unsure about the stock one
-Chris

[DCLXVI]

ADA: Didn't see your reply earlier :( I've buisy with other stuff...

If it fits into the E-Maxx trannie, it should work in the TXT trannie since both are built to use the same type of motors...

[5150SR71]

Hey guys,
For the best of both worlds I took an E-Maxx two speed tranny and installed the MAXX motors in it and then mounted that in my TXT. That combined with locking the diffs, gearing down a little and twin Super Roosters with 9 matched cells each is a pretty potent combo!

The tranny is nice though because it gives you an extra kick when you need more than just first gear has to offer.

5150

[-=ADA$=-]

ive read that when using emaxx tranny you have to disable 2 gear cause theres to much slop!

[5150SR71]

I haven't had any trouble with it at all. There is a little back lash type slop there but nothing that's caused any sorts of problems.

5150

[-=ADA$=-]

dont have it but thats what ive heard, your probably right!

[MT Dude]

there is alot of slop, but not enough that it causes a problem
-Chris

[big cheese]

Can anyone tell me what a Y-harness is and where I can get one

[4wdmt]

here you go:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL307&P=ML

thats what i bought to control my 2 hi-torque servos before on my txt-1. maybe you LHS has a stock of it. try checking it out first.

[big cheese]

Thank you, I never would have thought to look at towerhobbies.

[TXTRCR]

Wow, this has got to be the longest thread i have seen, and why not for the funnest truck there is.

My problem is this, stock txt-1 no after market aluminum anything, stock motors original, EVX speedo, 2 6 cell 3300mah packs. I have twisted the stock slider shafts that join the trans to the diffs in to a million pieces, i replaced them with the emaxx sliders and twisted those as well, then i went to the beefier 2.5 tmaxx sliders and you guessed it twisted those too. so whats next and where do i get them.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[-=ADA$=-]

there was a thread on RCcrawler.com about steel driveshafts but they were about $100 a piece, maybe you could try doing same thing like is dont in project rockeater? slide a piece of wood into the male end, and some tubing over female end, it should make them stronger

[Simen123]

RCCA also did a project truck where they used MIP cvd`s.
I am not sure how they mounted them though.

[Lonely]

:) My son races a TRF415 but has now decided he wants to get into monster trucks as well. Being dedicated Tamiya fans it was either a Juggernaut 2 or TXT and he came down in favour the TXT after receiving parental guidance!
Never having had a monster truck before any advice would be welcome as to the following;
1) What esc to fit, it will need to have reverse,be waterproof & handle uprated motors.
2) What servo's to fit, he wants four wheel steering.
3) What motors to fit, not necessarily make as they may not be available in the U.K. but what turns etc.
4) What hop ups apart from ball races, are essential and what are desirable.
5) Is there a proper twin battery conversion available.
I'm sorry if these questions have already been asked and answered but as mentioned any advice would be appreciated, other than buy an E Maxx!!! :)

[TXTRCR]

Here is how i set my truck up originally

ESC: Novak Super Rooster, single motor no limit, dual motor 15 turns and larger unless wired in series there is no limit in series.

Motors: I found all the rebuildable stock and mod motors to be a joke, i prefer the sealed can 550s or 540 size. the sealed can motors are cheap, dont mind dirt or water, heat is no problem, no brushes or coms to change or clean or cut.

Servos: Hitec 645mg, all metal gears no stripping ever and has more than enough power to swing the stock size tires and rims. I did use the larger servo saver but found that the steering travel was affected by it, with the servos directly mounted to the tie rods via a standard large plastic or aluminum servo horn you get the full lock to lock even with the truck on the ground. simply use a y harness to join the servos.

the drive shafts hold up well to this combo if you keep the wheelies to a minimum and do not force the motors to run when all four tires a bound up.

instead of glueing the tires to the rims as per the instruction manual, i took some self tapping screws of a small diameter and screwed them through the rim into the bead of the tire that way the tire can be removed from the rim, its like a cheap bead lock i guess.

[TXTRCR]

here is setup number 2 much more fun but with it comes working on the truck frequently

ESC: Traxxas EVX, or Novak EVX, same controller thats in the emaxx trucks.

Battery: with the first set up i ran one pack only of 6 3300mah cells, with this setup i run two of the 6 cell 3300mah packs.

Motors: still the stock sealed can 540s that came with the truck, for same reasons above and the fact that there still going even with 14.4volts instead of 7.2volts

Servos: same servo just less of them i only run the front steering now, the truck is too unstable for 4 wheel steering at the speeds im getting now, i would say 25 mph range as apposed to the 15mph of the first setup.

Drive shafts: the stockers broke, i replaced with emaxx sliders those broke, i put in a set of 2.5 tmaxx sliders and those broke, i just bought a new set of 2.5 sliders for now. ill find metal ones later on.

Four Links suspension: these four links will give you a fit from time to time, the stock plastic ends are drilled just a bit too big for the threaded rod or the plastic is cheesy i dont know. but every once and a while the just come apart. there are several options, buy new rod ends of a higher quality, buy 1/8th scale buggy steering rod ends and some treaded rod to fit those, or buy some of the after market ones available from www.rc4wd.com although these will crush your bill fold.

I have also locked the rear differential with jb weld so it doesnt get stuck as much now. just spray the diff out with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and install the gears into on half, then fill the other half with jb weld, and transfer the gears over to that half and give them a spin to get the jb weld moving, and fill the other half with jb weld, smash the two together and wipe off the stuff that oozes out, then grease the splines that slid into the diff and insert them into the diff. let it stand for a couple of hours and remove the axles and let it stand for a complete 24 hours or more before attempting to turn it. it will hold up quite nicely once completed. if it doesnt hold youll need a new diff, or you can purchase one from www.rc4wd.com prelocked with jb weld.

[Lonely]

:) Thanks for the advice just a couple of quick questions, will the Super Rooster handle two motors (I doubt that he will be going lower than 14 turns) or do you need one for each motor and is it waterproof?
What are the advantages of locking up the diffs?
What are sliders?
Thanks. :)

[TXTRCR]

the super rooster will handle dual motors wired in parallel down to 15 turns, it will handle any two motors wired in series. it is not water proof, only splash proof, and a very light splash, no driving in the rain, or water. mud is ok if its starting to dry out, like it only has 1 or 2 inches of mud on top of dry soil.

there are no car or truck speed controllers that know of that have reverse, brakes, and are water proof. astro flight makes a few controllers that will handle what ever you want to put on it, but they have no brakes and are forward only. brakes means that you can push the trigger into the reverse position when the motor is spinning forward and stop the motor. the astro flight controllers only let you go forward and coast to a stop.

sliders are two plastic round tubes one usually splined and slides into the larger one with internal splines.

[TXTRCR]

locking the diffs, ever been driving on a muddy road, and get stuck because one tire spins and the other does nothing. if only that other tire would spin you would not be stuck any longer. that is what locking the diffs does. if one tire is off the ground it will spin quickly while the others do nothing. so if you lock the diff it makes it like its a solid axle all the way from one tire to the other. when that tire goes up in the air the other 3 still turn at the same speed as the one that is lifted. i recomend that you only lock the rear.

[Lonely]

:cool: I've been searching for a forward/reverese/waterproof esc to fit when I get the TXT and came across this;
M Troniks Sonic4 Super E Truck esc they claim this is 100% waterproof with forward and reverse (inc. reverse disable) 2 15 turn motor limit at 14.4v and 2 11 turn motor limit for single battery application.
It's quite expensive at £132.00 U.K but this seems to be the closest to what I'm looking for.
I shall be going with the advice given and fitting the Hitec 645 MG servo's and it looks as if I ought to get the axle guards! :cool:

[TXTRCR]

i had totally forgotten about that speed controller, i also considered that one for my truck but i came across an evx cheap.

that speed controller will do just fine im sure. get ready for a battle with the steering on that truck the stock setup is hideous its nearly impossible to get it to turn full lock to lock.

i use the stock plastic guards on my truck and they work just fine but im not really agressive with the truck so you made need them for yours. the 2.5 tmaxx slider shafts work fine, i had bought a pair that were used and had already been cut down and had started to twist. a pair of brand new ones cut to fit tightly between the transmission and differential work really well.

[DCLXVI]

I ditched the stock set-up with axle guards, I mounted the servos behind the axles instead, it did cost one or two cm of artic on one wheel but I'd rather have it this way:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_413.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_406.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_407.JPG

Rear set-up (don't use the skid anymore though):

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_412.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_409.JPG

Mounted:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_418.JPG

I'm using alu servo horns...I got tired of the plastic ones breaking all the time...I'll have to see how the servo gears holds...

[Lonely]

:cool: Well my kids changed their minds as only kids & women can and wimped out and decided they wanted an E Maxx, which they've now got. But upholding the Tamiya end I just put the winning bid in on a Tamiya TXT which is running an M Troniks Super E esc, two 6 pack batteries & 2 X 17x2 motors, has aluminium cantilevers & shocks.
I will want to fit an E Maxx tranny, skid plates and probably the aluminium axle guards.
I see several people have fitted the E Maxx tranny, any major problems or is it a straight fit? Also who makes the best quality skid plates, should I stick with Tamiya items or I have seen mention of New Era stuff? Lastly are the Tamiya axle guards the only one's or are there other makes?
I realise the TXT probably won't be as fast or handle as well as the kids E Maxx but I was more concerned with having something nearer to a real monster truck and I believe most of those run solid axles? :cool:

[Lonely]

:cool: Okay took the TXT out and ran it anger between racing our touring cars and it was just awesome, until it broke! As previously stated runs an M Troniks Super E esc and LRP 17x2 motors with two LRP 3500 6 cell stick pack batteries.
It wheelies striaght off the mark (I think I need to try and relocate the batteries nearer the centre) and my sons was totally downhearted when ,with only a single speed gearbox ,it still walked away from his Traxxas E Maxx!
Now got to purchase a set of aluminium axle guards sooner than I thought! :cool:

[-=ADA$=-]

in test in RC car action monster trucks about year ago, TXT handled better ( in slalom) tham e-maxx, and what have broke?? im now awaiting my chassis arrive from beeing cut, and than ill try to put it all together ASAP

[Lonely]

:confused: Does anyone know how to improve the steering throw on a TXT?, I don't really want to go to 4 wheel steer unless I have to, is there anyway of increasing the amount of steering travel on the front wheels? :confused:

[DCLXVI]

There's two small tabs on the steering spindle, take away those and you should have some more steering throw...

[Lonely]

:confused: DCLXVI I had a look but I cannot see which bit you are refering to, any more clues please, thanks :confused:

[TXTRCR]

remove the tabs marked by the white arrows, there are 4 on top and 4 on bottom.

[-=ADA$=-]

ive just got my frames cut, i cant put tranny on, but after assembly its longer (16.5") and has more ground clearance under tranny (4.8") so it looks killer now!!

[TXTRCR]

also if you put the axle guards back on and mount the servo higher up on the black plastic guard in the center. about 1/4 or 1/2 inch above the stock mounting location using the stock mounting blocks. Put a wide servo saver on like the traxxas tmaxx servo savers or the Kimbrough servo savers like the one in the picture. use one link per wheel instead of the one tie bar that goes from one side to the other and then the smaller one that links one side to the servo. you will need four ball studs and lock nuts, 4 ball sockets, and 2 peices of threaded rod. this will give you equal steering in both directions but you must have a heavy duty servo or you will pop it every time you turn the wheels with the truck not moving. my truck will turn full lock to lock with the wheels on the ground and the truck sitting still. however the steering setup like this even though its turning the maximum amount possible the truck is still a pain to turn around in a tight spot. if i put the truck on one side of the street almost on the sholder and turn the wheels all the way and give it about 1/4 throttle it will turn 180 degrees before it touches the sholder on the other side of the road which is not very good. if i give it any more gas than 1/4 it just goes straight. im running the EVX with stock motors, stock transmission and dual 3300 mah 6 cell packs.

[dont slow down]

got my new parts for my txt-1 today (after horizon send the wrong thing twice) and fixed it tonight, cant wait to take it to work tomorrow, i work in contruction so there is plenty of junk to challenge the txt-1.

[-=ADA$=-]

Yea!! its getting more and more popular. after some mods TXT can be very thrilling MT :D have fun with yours!!

[dont slow down]

well i took it to work with me today and i was driving it around and i flipped it, and the right front link pulled out of the ball cup, stripping the threads :( so now i have to fix that, good thing its an easy fix.

[TXTRCR]

you should change all the tie rod ends to heavy duty ones. that very thing that happend to your truck has happened and is happening to just about every txt-1 out there. i shoved Tmaxx rod ends on my truck. The tmaxx ends are quite a bit smaller in diameter and they are a pain to put on because they are a tight fit but thats a good thing, that means they wont be comming off anytime soon.

[-=ADA$=-]

dont scare me ive never had this happen so probably its just waiting to jump on me :D ill better get some heavy duty ones. And it seemes that you were running pretty fast i would get some reduction if i were you :D

[dont slow down]

i didnt even think about the traxxas ones, and it so happens that i have a ton of them left from my emaxx, ill use those instead. i do have it geared really low, stock tranny with 8 or 9 tooth pinions, with 550 titans in it, it only goes about 3 miles per hour, i was going up a steep hill and it flipped over backwards and the tumbling put some stress on the axel causing the link to come out, no biggie, hey if i use the traxxas ones, will the overall length of the link be the same as it was stock?

[TXTRCR]

I used the ones for a 2.5 Tmaxx, I'm not sure if the Emaxx rod ends will work too. It will probably take a few tries to get the rod ends on there i had to drill the holes out to make them fit. I dont think it makes much difference in the lenght of the truck, i know that when you first snap the traxxas rod ends onto the TXT-1 ball studs they are a really tight fit and take a few hours of running to loosen back up. This will effect the articulation a little bit. or you would try the complete traxxas setup, like the one in the pic. I cant find the exact picture of the parts that i bought. it was an entire kit of rod ends for the tmaxx for like 12 bux it had something like 16 long rod ends and 10 short rod ends. make sure you use ones equal to the length of the stock rod ends or it will change the length of the truck. oh and by using the entire setup i ment the screws for the tmaxx and those little metal things that snap into the rod ends. that may improve flex. the rod ends will go back to letting the truck flex like it did with the stock rod ends after a few hours run time.

[Nitro Babe]

I'm going to purchase a TXT and want to build it with full bearings. Can anybody tell me the sizes and quantities of bearings I'll need?

Thanks!

[TXTRCR]

are you a memeber of ebay, there are a ton of bearing kits available on there, or there were last time i looked.

also might try www.rc4wd.com or www.towerhobbies.com

[TXTRCR]

http://rc4wd.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=848 as it states in the product info you will also need cantilever bearings, if you want to buy better quality bearings there are the sizes and quantity you need of each right there. here is the link for those http://rc4wd.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=847

also on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=5936159753&rd=1

[Nitro Babe]

Wow. Great links.

Hard to believe you can get a set of 27 quality bearings for $15. Do you have any experience with that ebay seller? Do you know if those bearings are good?

Thanks man! :)

[TXTRCR]

i just recently became a member of ebay and i have yet to do any buying or selling. I personally prefer the bushings over the bearings. For three reasons, Bushings are cheaper to replace, its quite nearly impossible to shatter a bushing, and the speed increase by switching to bearings is so slight that you may not even notice it. As far as the quality of the bearings on ebay and the ones on RC4WD they appear to be the same bearings, just your standard sealed metal sheild bearings. the greatest difference between bearings and bushings would be that the bearings decrease the load on the motors and would allow the motors to last a little longer. This however goes back to cost, stock motors cost 20 bux. I have owned my truck since they first came out, in fact as soon as towerhobbies listed it as "In Stock" i ordered mine and its still stock and running strong. I upgraded the speed controller and steering servo only. Traxxas EVX, and Hitec 645mg servo.

[Nitro Babe]

Anyone else have any experience with these particular bearings??

[Anthony]

I got those bearing and I like them better than the duratax ones i have.

[Nitro Babe]

Thanks. I'm off to place my order. :)

[Anthony]

When I bought them I planed for the other models I would be getting. So I bought them in bulk, like 50 5x11 and a tamiya tractor bearing set.

[-=ADA$=-]

i would say they will be enaugh, you wont be going fast probably, and theyll only be there to reduce drag. So its just plain bearings that will do the trick

[Lonely]

:( If your fitting bearings to a TXT which is going to be exposed to dirt/mud whatever you call it where you live, you should really be fitting the rubber shield version as these will keep out a lot more crap and therefore should last longer. I just got a set of RS bearings through Walawala's shop on E Bay for $10.80 + p&p. Although he ahs a limited range of TXT parts it's worth checking site before you buy anything as his prices are usually pretty good. I buy most of our Tamiya touring car parts from Joaquim at Walawala and he's a top bloke :cool:

[Lonely]

:) I fitted a rear servo on my TXT together with a Y harness and servo reverse lead as I thought the 2WS was too damn wide, turns like a supertanker! I now know why you don't fit 4WS unless your only using it for rock crawling, anything over walking pace and it becomes virtually uncontrollable. So I'm now back on 2WS!! :)

[TXTRCR]

there is also the strength part to consider when choosing bearings. the rubber or plastic shield bearings arent as likely to hold up to a pounding. If you drive the way i do you need strong bearings. seeing as how the bearings support the axles completely i would prefer bushings in that area over bearings as they are less likely to spit a shield out and throw ball bearings all into the axle tubes. bearings would be fine for the transmission and if im not mistaken i think i remember seeing bearings in the transmission.

[RDucky02]

Anyone know where or how I can extend the wheelbase on the truck? I want it to be more stable at higher speeds.

Im first thinking of switching the suspension around to the stock clodbuster type. I love the truck but I am just killing the cantiliver suspension on jumps and such.

[TXTRCR]

try these guys, http://rc4wd.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=133 or you could always get longer peices of all thread and put some spacers between the 4 link rod end and the links. that would be the cheaper and easier route to take. you can use either brass or copper tubing or a stack of flat washers, or even some aluminum stock and drill a whole through the center in a drill press. you can find all thread at www.towerhobbies.com or your local hardware store, lowes, sutherlands, home depot, ace all should have 4-40 all thread i believe is the size you need. hope this helps you out.

[Jeckler]

Look in the Rockeater thread, page 7 near the bottom. You'll need a new set of driveshafts as well. Revo shafts are the hot ticket. Search R C M T or rccrawler.com for more info.

[RDucky02]

I'm running an emaxx transmission with the emaxx/tmaxx drive shafts front and rear. Im also using the motors that Janders had on here a long time ago. The motors are awesome, plenty of power and speed. The set up works well for what I do. Wondering if anyone else doesnt use their txt for rock crawling? if you dont, what kinda set up are you rolling? im mostly looking for suspension set up.

[Lonely]

:cool: I use my TXT for general bashing around, jumps, speed etc., it's fitted with the Tamiya aluminium cantilevers and Tamiya alloy low friction shocks and a real must, Tamiya alloy axle guards. I'm just awaiting the arrival of a set of New Era skid plates to try and protect the underside a bit better.
I'm running LRP 17 x2 motors with twin GP 3300 six cell stick packs and an M Troniks Super E truck esc. Next on the shopping list will be an uprated rod end kit and a Hitec 645 hi torque servo. :cool:

[-=ADA$=-]

If youll cut the chassis and mount stock 4 links, it will lenghten it but youll need new driveshafts, also it will give better ground clearance under tranny

[TXTRCR]

-=ADA$=- show me what your talking about, that sounds interesting. you mean to cut off the bottom inch of the chassis and mount the links up higher or what.

[Jeckler]

TXTRCR, look up, post #1217

[TXTRCR]

how does that add length or height, the last thing a txt-1 needs it to have less room for electronics. you are talking about the frame being cut into triangle shapes and haveing the shocks mounted to the lower links right.

I like mine setup the way it is, there is nothing this truck wont climb now. I just need some aluminium axle guards, i have broken the stock plastic ones for the last time there isnt enough material to repair anymore. the only things i changed from stock are, batteries 2 3300mah 6 cell packs mounted to the outside of the frame on either side in the middle, EVX Speed controller, Hitec 645mg servo, Acramen<~~spelling) style steering, a few cuts and grinds on the steering system, new tmaxx rod ends, 2.5 tmaxx drive shafts, and the tires i forget what there called the have treads like \ / \ / \ /. its fast and strong and it can crawl very well as well as pull things.

[Jeckler]

Not sure what you were looking at, but doing the link swap mod will gain you 2.5 inches in length. Raising the tranny and cutting off the bottom of the chassis will gain you an inch or so of clearance under the tranny. Now, before you say that will raise the COG, you're right. However, it doesn't raise it as much as lifting the ENTIRE truck to gain the same clearance.
There's plenty of room for electronics. My SR and Rx are mounted to a thin piece of lexan superglued to the shock mounts, the battery is through the frame and my Voltage Regulator is DS taped and ziptied to a frame rail.

there is nothing this truck wont climb now

Be very careful making that statement.

Edit: Here's my truck as it sits now...

[TXTRCR]

i was looking at the project rock eater truck done by MT Dude. I didnt look any thing like that though, thats pretty cool but kind of hard to go back to stock if you dont like it. I'm all about modifications done with stock parts but i like to have a back up plan just incase i mess up or the mod isnt any good. OK OK OK there are a few things this truck wont climb. anything with a vertical wall about 6 inches high it wont climb, if i had bigger tire that stuck out past the front skid it would probably climb more stuff. But i will not climb every thing. How about that, is that better.

[TXTRCR]

this is the truck

[Jeckler]

I didn't mean to sound so harsh. Sometimes it's very easy to disprove someone. :)
Good luck on your truck. Check out rccrawler.com for lots of neat things for these and other trucks.

[Lonely]

:( Anyone else had this problem, my TXT landed rather heavily on the far side of a 4ft ditch I tried to jump with insufficient run up. It snapped the rear axle housing clean through right next to my nice new Tamiya alloy axle guards, bent the axle inside, bent the steering lock out rod and ripped the ball connector out of the skid plate, marvellous!!!
An evenings hard graft following a visit to my LHS has got it sorted but is this a common problem with TXT's or was I just being to hard on it.
For what it's worth it probably would have cleard the ditch with a slightly longer run up!!! :mad:

[jturkey69]

^^ i havent heard fo anything like that yet, but on the txt-1 website i read that your truck is faster then your sons e-maxx...well with speed like that....
1. yeah it might break...
2. how is it that i put in 2 16x2 speed gem pros, super rooster, motors wired in parallel, and one 2400 battery and its not that fast?! did you re-gear?

[TXTRCR]

my truck will hit 25 if i work the throttle just right. maybe its the single battery pack thats slowing you down. i have stock motors, traxxas EVX, and 2 6 cell 3300mah packs. If i get on the gas too quick the truck will flip backwards. I had 17 turn trinity speed jems in my truck with the super rooster and 1 3300 pack at one time and all it did was smoke motor after motor, and instead of the stock 8 mph it went about 12 mph or there about. A stock clodbuster could catch and pass my truck easily with that setup. My truck now will probably nip at an emaxxes heels in high gear now.

[RDucky02]

Questions and comments.... on recent news i can stay with my brothers emaxx without aproblem. running 2 GP 3300 7 cell packs (14 cells), an evx, those XF motor, almost like the titans, and an emaxx tranny. guess i have the guts of an emaxx so it should be fast like one. anyway, on the crash Lonely had... Ive landed really bad quite a few times, more like all the time. It seems my pressure from the landings goes to the cantiliver suspension though, specifically to where the shock and the cantilivers meet. havent had your problem.

Jeckler- in the article in the rockeater thread on page 7 i saw your truck and someone described how to do it. when i switch the lower and the upper linkages do i move all the hardware too? i would guess i would. also, could you take some close up pictures so i can more cleary see a few things. i also noticed that some people are cutting away some of the material on the side plates, or at least that what it looks like. howeer your truck doesnt look that way. any reason why you have/havent? and did you try a different suspension set up, clod style? if you did which did better?

TXTRCR- your truck seems set up for rock climbing only because of the suspension set up. and your comments. did you buy aftermarket vertical chassis rails or did youy cut yours? whats the best part of your set up

I like both set ups but i feel that Jecklers will give me what I need mroe however. Ild like to use Jecklers set up with savage or MGT shocks....

Any and all comments/advice is greatly appreciated. Rather ask now, than do something crazy and not be able to reverse it without droppin a HUGE check...

[jturkey69]

Lonely, after reading about your dilemma i decided for the "speed truck" i will re-inforce the axle tubes...not sure how yet, but more then likly 1:1 style, and also i think ill put on different shocks, prolly savage, and mount them upright

TXTRCR...if im gonna make or buy a Y harness...should it be parallel or in series??...the motors are parallel, so i want to make sure im not overdoing it with the super rooster...eventually i will have 2 more txts soon...one this week, so i will be doing a e-maxx drivetrain conversion in that one as well, and the 3rd txt will be a crawler project, and have bookmarked many pages on rccrawler.com for that purpose

thanks for all the help

[Lonely]

:cool: jturkey69 - I bought my TXT 2nd hand and havn't had cause to have the motors (2 17x2 LRP's) out yet to check what pinions are in there, it runs an M Troniks Super E truck esc and I use 6 cell packs either GP3300'S or LRP 3500's. You have to accelerate really smoothly to keep the front down but it still has a good top speed, overhauled the stock E Maxx even after giving him a head start due to it being on it's back wheels for the first few seconds.
Your right I expect somethings to break I just didn't think it would be the axle housing and to bend the axle inside as well!! I thought the ground was soft enough to get away with it even if I didn't make it, ho hum.
RDucky02 how do you manage to squeeze 7 cell packs in, have you fitted a modded battery tray? Mines a conversion of the stock one where the batteries go in on edge rather than flat and the battery strap is on raised mounts. :cool:

[Jeckler]

Jeckler- in the article in the rockeater thread on page 7 i saw your truck and someone described how to do it. when i switch the lower and the upper linkages do i move all the hardware too? i would guess i would. also, could you take some close up pictures so i can more cleary see a few things. i also noticed that some people are cutting away some of the material on the side plates, or at least that what it looks like. howeer your truck doesnt look that way. any reason why you have/havent? and did you try a different suspension set up, clod style? if you did which did better?

To put it simply, you remove the two cross braces near the tranny. The ball studs for the new upper links go there. Then, you drill two new holes for the new lower links and mount the ballstuds there. It's pretty much a 'eyeball it and see if it works' thing. Then simply take the lower links (the ones with the swaybar holes) and those are the new upper links. I'm sure you can figure out what to do with the other two. :)
It's best to do this mod in conjunction with two others, one is mandatory. First, move the lower link mount from the bottom of the axle to the top. This gains you clearance when sliding over rocks.
Second, you need new driveshafts, Revo's are the current hot setup.
I did that mod the night before a get together. The reason for cutting the chassis plates is to gain ground clearance. But, you also need to raise the transmission. I didn't have time for that before the next day. I've since completed that mod. The pic on the previous page of this thread shows it.

[TXTRCR]

Jturkey69 it all depends on what motors you are using. My Super Rooster did fine with the stock motors in parallel, and the battery packs in series. i actually did not even have a y harness for my battery packs on my super rooster. I soldered up 6 cells side by side. and mounted them to out side of the frame in the middle, then i soldered up another set just like it and mounted them to the outside of the frame on the other side in the middle. and soldered a wire from the positive of one battery to the negitive of the other battery and put a deans connector on the remaining pos and neg. and plugged that into the s rooster. 3000mah batts work fine no heat at all, 3300mah batteries will start to heat the controller up after about 2 or 3 minutes of hard running, i never had it thermal or shut down on me though. Im not saying all the super roosters will handle the setup i had. You might get one that will and the next will not. you also need a charger that can charge 12 cells at once. or use a y harness and charge one pack at a time. to answer your question though series with stock motors, parallel with low turn mods.

[jturkey69]

TXTRCR...thanks for the help, i will try a Y in series and see what that does for my speed, and if not wire them in parallel....16x2 speed gems might be pushing it a lil tho

[RDucky02]

Jecker - is it still possible to cut the bottom of the side plates to gain the clearence with a emaxx tranny> if so how?

and ill take a pic of my battery tray. basically the packs sit side by side on their sides. i used parma body mounts to raise the stock plastic battery tray bar up. then i dremeled the one side, two semi circles, where the wires come out so the batteries can sit in the tray completly....

[Jeckler]

It depends on the mounts used as to whether it can be done. I've never seen an emaxx conversion in person, so can't say yes for sure. I'm pretty sure an emaxx tranny isn't as tall, and mounts higher in the frame. It just depends on the mounts. Some use the stock bottom holes, some don't.

[RDucky02]

In the following pictures you will see how I fit my 2 7 cell packs into the battery holder. In addition you can see how I cannot cut my chassis as Jeckler has because of the emaxx tranny in there. if you have any ideas how i could move things around to get a better set up advice is always welcome. I'm gonna do the other mod with moving the shafts tonight. we'll see how that goes. take care.

[RDucky02]

if you look closely; you can see that the adapters use the vertically kinda middle holes to mount, where the stock existing upper links go in. and the tranny is about even with the bottom of the side plates

[TXTRCR]

some one asked about the setup of my truck, the picture i posted wasnt my truck, i was trying to figure out what jeckler meant by cutting the frame and that was the picture i found where the frame had been cut. It doesnt seem like the truck would climb too well with that setup or at least not really tall stuff.

To the other dude with the battery packs mashed inside the stock battery holder, you will notice a large difference in handleing if you take the packs and zip tie or cable tie them too the outside of the frame rails. you will get a better launch or more stable acceleration without the truck flipping over backwards. also the truck will be able to climb a steeper angle than it will with the batteries mounted in the back. Improved CG by a whole bunch.

My truck is still under construction so i cant get any photos, nor would i want anyone to look at the horrible mess i have made with the modifications. I built a bunch of proto type brackets for suspension setups. Just trying out different angles and what not to see if i could improve the flex or articulation. lots of nuts, bolts, and screw holes. but it handles pretty well both at high speeds and crawling. I have found that there is not happy median though, you can not get a truck that is stable at high speeds that can also roll up a pile of bolders and rocks. Or that is not that i have found. That is why i converted my Tmaxx to electric for speed and ill use my txt-1 to go 8mph up a vertical wall.

[Jeckler]

Looks to me like you could easily cut that after doing the link swap. I don't see why you couldn't.

[RDucky02]

I could cut the frame because nothing is in the bottom holes any longer... however, the bottom of the trans is even with the bottom of chassis. so if i cut it i no longer have any tranny protection... i want to move the electronics so i cant raise the tranny up a little. then maybe i can do it.

[RDucky02]

i locked my diffs last night and today i tested it briefly around the house. seem slike a good set up. ill be taking it outside tomrorow. just wanted to make sure everything was complely set and besides... im a last minute shopper... i had to shop.... 1 more thing to pick up tomorrow.... my trucks are always a reliever after dealing with crowded chicago malls all day.

[Dirk Digler]

Hey wannabe rock crawlers!

surf over to:
www.rccrawler.com

if you want to see what real rc crawlers are up to! :eek:

[-=ADA$=-]

already there :D (AFJ) and now im getting my skid plate done. Dunno when it will be ready, but my revo shafts should be here about next week - finally

[Lonely]

:( There's something seriously wrong here, I was out just setting up my truck as I had bought a new radio set up and I clipped a kerb with the left hand front wheel, guess what???
Another new axle housing and axle required, now it was'nt the hardest knock I've had by a long way, my boy's E Maxx would have just kept going. Soon after this I stood it up on it's back wheels as it come up over a dirt mound and it completely ripped the UJ on the rear drive shaft to pieces, fitted a spare T Maxx shaft I had and this lasted about 15 seconds before it tore the metal part through the plastic end!!!!
I'm now finally taking the advice of Tampa TXT on the www.txt-1.net site and fitting Tamiya Terra Crusher drive shafts in the hope this will cure the problems with the drive shaft. How come it's always the rear one though and never the front one??? :(

[TXTRCR]

there is something wrong, dont use emaxx or first generation tmaxx shafts, they will not hold up, the terra crusher shafts require a little work to make them fit. i would either buy 2.5 tmaxx shafts which is what i have on my truck now or the new traxxas revo shafts. they bolt right on. i have had my shafts on the truck for a couple of months now and they show no signs of twisting or anything. try these shafts first cheap and easy. make sure you get the right ends though because there are two different ends one doesnt have a big enough hole or something i went through that the first time i put the shafts on. as for the axle housing breaking. If you have the after market aluminum 4 links and the after market aluminum axles guards installed, well there has to be a weak link some where and its gonna break. I put aluminum axle quards on but left the stock links and changed to a heavy duty plastic rod end that way those will come unglued when it gets too much pressure. you gotta look for stress points and adjust accordingly, not by makeing every thing solid but by leaving something easy fix and cheap to buy and buy lots of spares. Also try not to hit anything with just one tire thats hard on your wallet and the truck. if your gonna climb something and you gotta hit it at an angle roll up to it. The traxxas line of trucks do take those hits a little better because there suspension is not setup so that its in a constant bind like the txt-1. the truck was designed to go 8 mph when you add more speed you add more to the parts list each time you hit something crooked.

[jturkey69]

dam lonely...thats two axles in what...two months?? as far as the front axles goes...are you using the stock rodends yet??...i clipped a curb last month, and the ballend just popped off...now as the driveshafts go...i hear ya there, but which shafts were you using?...ive noticed two different sizes for thos shafts...ive had to replace the rear on my speed txt, and i went with the heavyduty shafts, and havent had a problem yet...although i have a custom wheelbase, so i now chopped one shaft up to re-inforce the rear shaft , meaning i took a male part of the halfshaft cut short and inserted inside the female end, so i would have about 1/4 in or so of freeplay, and did the same on the out side with an extra female shaft and glued it to the end yoke....i broke mine with an evx and 2 16x2 speed gem pros, and a rev to forward shaft-snapper..lol....but i also read tampas ideas, and that may be the way to go yet...although id rather snap those then the gears inside the axle...

i use part # 4951x...x denotes 2.5 heavy duty for tmaxx, although i have e-maxx shafts on the crawler and the look identical to the t-maxx ones i just got 4928x is the diff output yokes

[Anthony]

There are 2 sizes of drive yokes, the t-maxx uses 5mm and the e-maxx uses 6mm. You want the 6mm drive yokes.