Tamiya TXT-1 v3.0

[4wdmt]

Oh, How I love my TXT-1 also before. Sometimes, I miss it. In fact, I owned 2. Both sold. I just can't take the torque twist. It really annoys me, i don't know why. I can see it in your pics also.

I just love how the TXT-1 looks even in stock form. Its screaming Monster Truck!

I can see that your txt loves jumping, whats your set-up?

[cfjan]

Maybe you should get another one?! :D

I run dual S600 motors (550-sized airplane motor), stock gearing, and 14.4V through a Novak SuperDuty XR.

Then I got the typical aluminum parts (selectively).. don't want unnecessary aluminum parts..

It is a good setup, I like it a lot!! :p

[4wdmt]

With your set-up, no wonder your txt-1 can jump, lol.

Still waiting for the TXT-2. Maybe this time, no more of that twisting effect.

[cfjan]

As long as it is a shaft drive, it will have torque roll... :mad:

Part of the charm! :D

[4wdmt]

cfjan. Maybe you can enlighten me. Its true that shaft drive create that body twisting. But how come the E-Maxx doesn't do it? It's also shaft driven.

[cfjan]

E-Maxx has indepndent suspension, while the TXT is the true monster truck where it uses solid axle.. so when the driveshaft try to turn the wheels quickly, the wheels can't spin up fast enough so it twist the whole rear axle.. compare to E-Maxx where the rear gearbox is mounted to the chassis...

[4wdmt]

Got the whole idea. Thanks.

[CarbonShadow]

I wanna buy one but im gonna get a jato. Dang I wish I had more than $400.

[4wdmt]

^^^ Wish I HAVE $400 right now :D.

[cfjan]

TXT hanging out w/ its little brother, Wild Willy 2! :D

[cfjan]

Trying to do donuts around the WW-2.. LOL! :D

Oh yeah, running on 2 wheels.. LOL!

[4wdmt]

Very nice. Wish the txt-1 pic is more focused.

[cfjan]

It was focused.. but not bright enough today to use higher shutter speed... :mad:

[Hicks]

I have installed the E-Maxx tranny, drive shafts into my txt. Everything is works perfect. The only problem is, that I can’t install the shifting servo to the right place. It mean’s I can’t find any place, where I could install the servo. Everything is stock in the car (battery tray, suspensions). If you have any idea or pictures about the servo mount, please help me.

Thank you

[cfjan]

Post some pics of the EMaxx tranny in the TXT!

You wanted that tranny just for the 2-speed??

[Hicks]

I bought that tranny just for fun (I like bulid and rebuild). I think this is one of the best upgrade for txt1. I like this monster very much, maybe it’s better with this tranny. Now I could use it for „crawling” and it has a very high top speed together. I have to change my esc (for three channel), but maybe it will work perfect. This morning I found the right place for the servo (micro servo).

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/8308/netreiq5.jpg
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5841/netre2eo5.jpg
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/4469/netre3rr1.jpg

[cfjan]

Is the tiny servo strong enough to pull the shifter?!

Looks good!!

[Hicks]

I haven’t tried it yet. It’s a micro servo, so it has a 1-1.5 kg torque. It has to be enough.

[4wdmt]

nice location on that shifting servo. I hope it works, let us know when you have it working.

[Hicks]

It’s working, the micro servo is more then enough for this thing.
But... :( the batteries and the motors is too close to each other. http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3057/netre2iq4.jpg
I don’t have more place, they are heating each other very much. What can I do?
Now the motors are looking backward. What happened if I turn around the tranny? I can change the throttle function on my transmitter to reverse. Is it a good idea?

thanks

[hyperstang]

I ran my TXT with the Emaxx tranny with the TTR kit. It was awesome, but I really couldn't get the full affect of the second gear because the bad boy was so top heavy that it kept on flipping over.

Also getting the gearing right for racing was kind of a hard thing as well. Adjusting the slipper and gearing for the Monster Truck jams was kind of a task, but getting her right she kicked butt big time.

I sold her and got a Xtreme Clod and used that. I do regret selling it, wouldn't mind having another one...

AAWWRIGHTTT!!!

[sesshomaru]

I just got a TXT-1 after waiting for 6 years to get the money...could of got it earlier, but I passed it up for a savage .28 ss.

This machine is worth every penny that I worked for. :D

[cfjan]

Congrats!! Post some pics when you build it up!!

[sesshomaru]

I wish I could. but there is not a lot to see as it is bone stock...and I don't have a decent cam. I love this thing!! It's so nice looking I don't want to bang it up. SO.... 1 NIB, 1 on the shelf and 1 basher! :D Anyhow whenever I crash or flip... I feel like crap; it just looks that good.

[cfjan]

LOL, nah, they are meant to be used hard!! :)

[byron555]

My txt has been sitting idle for a while waiting for new bevel gears to become availiable from Tamiya :mad: . The original diff internals grenaded. First the rear then the front. I did take the broken parts and jb welded them into the diff making spools, but alas I do not care for locked diffs in this particular truck. Broken an axle with this set up almost immediatly. So there it sits, I have spent more $$$ on this truck than any other I have ever purchased. I seem to have issues with the axle drive gears as well, the transmission however seems to be bomb proof. (saying that, I will probably break that next!)

While waiting for bevel gears, I have discovered that the HPI Wheely King 4x4 is loads of fun! (with a 21t motor) Parts are much easier to get and the truck seems to be very durable overall.

But alas it is not a TXT

I have been strictly a Tamiya guy for 18 years, but in my waiting for parts from Tamiya :mad: I have branched out to HPI, buying a Wheely King and E-savage. Both have proven to be really great! I prefer building kits, but no one else seems to anymore, there are very few kits left in the hobby market outside of Tamiya. I also have small kids now and time for building is at a minimum.

[cfjan]

Never broke a diff / bevel gear before... I did broke a rear drive gear when I was running on pavement and repeatedly wheelie and stop and wheelie.. running 16.8V.

It is hard to believe you would break anything up front (front diff) as it is usually not loaded (ha, in the air) so I wonder what's going on..

I got absolutely no wear and tear on the driveshaft, etc. up front... and this is after many many runs.. all w/ at least 14.4V (I set it up w/ Novak SuperDuty XR from the get go, never ran it in 7.2V)

[byron555]

Yeah I am not sure why things are not holding up. The front and rear drive gears have been replaced (front cracked, rear split) and the Y shaped piece (spider gears ride on this piece) in the differential broke in the front and the rear (rear diff broke open). I too have been running a SuperDuty XR from the start. I only have done a couple of runs at 14.4v most at 8.4v with twin Venom 19t motors 13 tooth pinions.

I did however run thick silicone diff lube to get more of a limited slip action. Did quite a few jumps, and pulled my daughter on a tricycle several times (about 30 lbs, used 7.2v)

[byron555]

Oh a txt ball diff would be great!! lucky clod guys get all the parts

[Hicks]

Since my last post, I changed nearly everything on the deck. I wasn’t satisfield with the servo mount, place of the batteries, etc…
I installed two thundertech carbon battery tray, HPI aluminium antenna holder. I had to make some place for the electronics, and I also reinstalled the shifting servo. Now the servo is working very good with the springs (The direct connention between the servo and the tranny was not a good idea)

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/8408/netre4co0.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/9109/netredi7.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2080/netre2ym9.jpg
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/8210/netre3ph7.jpg

[Adanmtxt1]

MWAA HA HA HA HA! Behold, my txt with new shoes. I re-installed the rear swaybar to mitigate some torque-steer and roll, running
stock gearing
twin Trinity Chameleon2 Pro motors
Super Rooster
Airtronics Super Micro rx
my trusty JR XR3i which, unbeknownst to me until a couple nights ago, actually has servo mixing!
Dual Hitec 5645mg servos (four wheel steering)
Rear swaybar only
HPI aluminum non-threaded Super Shocks
Lower link axle mount relocated to above the axle opposed to below
Clod Buster axle half shafts
rc4wd 23mm machined aluminum adaptors
Pro-line 40-series 23mm Commando orange beadlock rims (normal width)
Pro-line Masher 40-series tires
Deans plugs on motor and battery connections
Stock axle skid plates (I used to run NE axle guards, but they heavily limit ground clearance)
New Era center skid plate

I will lock the rear diff with JB weld sometime in the next couple days.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0767.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0764.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0757-1.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0756.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0775.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0781.jpg

[4wdmt]

NICE pics. Those wheels and tires really looks nice on your TXT. Love the white stuff. Any water proofing done?

[Adanmtxt1]

Thanks! Glad to bring this forum ttt. I ballooned the receiver, wrapped electrical tape around the ESC case where the wires exit, and I... I, uhh.... yeah, that's it. :D itec servos have held up well with no issues even though I haven't waterproofed them.

Where does your truck sit?

[Mini-TBasher55]

Haha, I took all the pics in the snow. Here are the 18 action shots I got of it.

http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii130/B4_Maniac/Adans%20TXT1/

The short time I got behind the wheel was awesome. Its a great truck, just a little pricey (I think we made an estimate of $800)

[hyperstang]

Man looking at all of these SSAAWWEEEEEEETT TXT's out there, makes me wanna get one again. I owned one a few years back and used it strictly for Monster Truck racing on pavement. I was the only TXT in the races among Clodbusters....

I think I'll try and check one out on ebay....considering a used one over a new one...just for bashing..

AAWWRIGHTTTT!!!!

[4wdmt]

Thanks! Glad to bring this forum ttt. I ballooned the receiver, wrapped electrical tape around the ESC case where the wires exit, and I... I, uhh.... yeah, that's it. :D itec servos have held up well with no issues even though I haven't waterproofed them.

Where does your truck sit?

Sitting beside it's new owner :D.

[Mod Man]

Here's my TXT.

Enjoy!

Matt

[7urb0_c471]

Beautiful machine work as usual, modman! Those on-piece upper links are hawt. You don't see many fully custom, 1-off trucks like that. Is it set up for racing, or just a general project of yours?

[Mod Man]

It is setup as a personal bashing/project truck.

Yesterday I put in a bunch of hours completely redesigning the upper suspension links. Now it uses a five link torsion plate upper suspension that combines upper links with a carbon fiber swaybar.

I will post pics when that portion is done.

Matt

[Needler56]

is this truck brushless/dual brushless ready in stock form? or do mods need to be made?

[CarbonShadow]

this truck might not even handle dual 19 turns let alone some kind of brush less system. Even if it worked the tourqe twist would kill you.

[cfjan]

Here's a video of a TXT w/ HV 4400 brushless setup..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTtSreC-G8g

[Needler56]

i was just watching that video before i posted, for 12 cells would you just have to stack them ontop of each other??

[cfjan]

You can fit 2 6-cells pack in the stock battery tray.. on top of each other or vertically side by side...

[7urb0_c471]

The transmission should handle brushless with no real problems; it can withstand rough rock crawling with no trouble. Axles, though,
I'm not certain. You will probably want upgraded half shafts and internal hardened steel axles, but gears should be okay assuming you
get a locker in the rear. And aside from bearings, you should be fine.

I'm running dual 19T Chameleon Pro motors on 6 cells and have no drivetrain upgrades, with bushings, and have no trouble.
It's an awesome and durable truck.

[cfjan]

I broke the universal and the drivegear (inside the axle) when I was playing w/ 16.8V on pavement (high traction) and pulling wheelies after wheelies..

Under normal driving condition, say, 14.4V, on dirt / gravel, I don't think anything would go bad..

Now I run a REVO shaft to replace the broken universal..

Regarding the locker -> locking differential will only put more stress on the drivetrain, so I am not sure how that would help...

[7urb0_c471]

I completely forgot about the driveshafts. Yeah one of mine is failing, so I'll be switching to Revo.

The locker from RC4wd is a very sturdy part which has a higher torque capacity. For general driving leave the front open with a diff,
but the rear lock will make it more stable and durable. That's just what I was thinking at least.

Btw, when I go to install the Revo shafts, how do I adapt the yoke to the TXT input/output shaft? Do I need to crossdrill them, or what?

[7urb0_c471]

I just realized that this might be more appropriate in the txt forum, sry for double post here and monster trucks.
I'm trying to decide how I want to set up my TXT. You have seen the truck in the TXT thread (hint hint),
and I am running dual Chameleon motors, but I would like to switch to more torque, more controllable throttle response, and
better run time. So, I'm thinking a set of Integy lathe motors, but I can't determine which would be best. I would run twin lathes,
looking for acceptable speed (about stock, around 8mph, nothing fast), but I don't want 2mph crawling speeds either. Would 35T be good,
or should I drop to 45T? Also, gearing recommendations, stock or alternate gearing?

Thank you, guys.

[7urb0_c471]

Welp, I was running with the lower links moved to the long pegs above the axle, and one of the pegs snapped off. I knew
they would not be as durable as the stock position (directly mounted w/o peg), so I cut off all the pegs above the axle and
now have better ground clearance with stock durability! Even better, I switched to these Traxxas rod ends and
associated hardware, which not only look better but should prove more durable and much smoother. I had also broken
one of the ball studs (stock Tamiya) and the only way to get another was a $20 parts bag, which is rediculous. This Traxxas
setup costs much less. No reason NOT to do is :D.

These are the PERFECT length, are durable, and look good. Allen ftw.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFN1

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGB7

I need one more set of each. btw, I was running this setup, and I finally broke the front driveshaft. I continued running rwd,
and it's pretty uncontrollable! When you launch, it torques the axle over to one side so the diff unloads. When the planted wheel
starts to receive less power, the other side drops down and grabs HARD, so it torques over the OTHER way. This alternating
power rocks violently and the truck pulls away swaying back and forth. Now waiting to get Revo driveshafts :D.

[cfjan]

When you lock the diff, the dogbone will start to break if you run on pavement and 4WS.. so much traction and when both wheels (rear wheels) are trying spin at different rate, something has to give..

On gravel / off-road, not a problem..

I don't quite remember but I think I drilled it through.. I use the stock Traxxas through pin mount the REVO shaft...




I completely forgot about the driveshafts. Yeah one of mine is failing, so I'll be switching to Revo.

The locker from RC4wd is a very sturdy part which has a higher torque capacity. For general driving leave the front open with a diff,
but the rear lock will make it more stable and durable. That's just what I was thinking at least.

Btw, when I go to install the Revo shafts, how do I adapt the yoke to the TXT input/output shaft? Do I need to crossdrill them, or what?

[7urb0_c471]

The driveshaft I broke was from the transmission to the axle, something I think every true TXT enthusiast must break before being accepted
as a true TXT enthusiast :D btw, diff is not locked yet. I'll do it after this weekend.

For Revo shafts, I checked and the input shafts are already drilled from the factory! My dad will pay for the shafts and hardward, so I'm
set after making a quick trip to the LHS. Should be finished by this coming Wednesday or Thursday.

I'm not sure if I want to lock it all up from the outset, or just the rear diff. I'm inclined to just weld the rear and see how it goes.

[cfjan]

Post some pics of your TXT!

[7urb0_c471]

Ok, still haven't done the JB Weld rear diff, but I'll do that in a few weeks when I get back from college. The only thing this needs now are two Integy 35T lathe motors. I love the Traxxas Revo rod ends -- they are very smooth, better looking, lighter, and more durable. Plus, you don't need to mess with popping balls on and off to get the links on. Revo shafts look great, took about 2cm length off the female slider. Also added: GS Racing blue aluminum clamping antenna mount; Traxxas foam body post stickers to take up slack and make everything cushiony and smooth :D. A few pics:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0965.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0983.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0973.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0966.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0968.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0987.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0989.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0993.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/DSCN0988.jpg

[Mountain]

I acquired a TXT-1 and am having great fun with it. I swapped a few parts round and now have it at 14.4V with 4WS and its great.

Due to the extra speed I have had a few issues. I have broken at least the following parts

Front Propshaft
Front Links
Cantilevers
Front Bumper Mount


I need some help in the best way to repair. I have searched the thread but its a bit unwieldy. I have a Revo which will kindly (in a C3PO sense) donate some parts to it.

Which drive shafts are best to use from the Revo? I did try one of the 4 main shafts but realised that the smaller UJ connector uses a pin and not a screw. What have people used that have fitted them and what mods are needed :)

I seem to also pop the plastic ends of the suspension links. Is there any better ones to use. Are the metal ones with captive balls better to use or do they add to much weight. I think the previous owner screwed too much into the metal part of the link.

Are the Tamiya cantilevers hop-up options worth having as I managed to pull most of the smaller suspension ball joints out. Same goes for low friction shocks.

The front gearbox bumper also snapped which eventually through a dodgy repair lead to my front propshaft breaking. Whats the best thing to do get an after maket bumper (recommendations). Or move the lower link to the top of bumper support from bottom.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[7urb0_c471]

First, read my post above yours, then the past 5 pages of this thread.

Onward to answering questions! :D
One of the problems with the stock suspension arrangement is that the ball ends can pop off, or the plastic will pull out from the metal threaded rod. If you read my post above yours, you'll see what I have done. The Traxxas Revo rod ends are superior, but you will need to remove the stock ball studs and replace everything with the following (pic is above as well):

Rod ends
2x http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGB7
Lock nuts
2x http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ47
Machine screws
3x http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFN1

They are relatively inexpensive and are awesome. Plus it looks (relatively) good. Don't expect to pop a ball stud ever again! :).


Ohh kaay, what else... suspension. Many people ditch the cantilever setup and mount the shocks directly between the body mount and the top of the axle where the bumper mount is located (those little pegs). It is simpler and helps mitigate roll. The optional cantilevers are not worth it, as they are expensive and offer no real performance increase.

Driveshafts! I was uncertain as well, but I just did this mod with success. You use the complete driveshaft assembly (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMJG8&P=ML), and remove the silver pin retaining the metal shaft. You will need to cut down the female slider shaft by a little to fit a stock wheelbase, and will need to do a little sanding, but it works very well. The end which previously accepted that metal shaft you just removed will need to be tapped to accept one of the cross pins. Not sure what you mean about needing a screw, but you just use the Traxxas cross pins.

For the smaller ball joints, I went with Traxxas Stampede ball ends:

ends
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ81&P=ML
machine screws (slightly shorter than before, due to space constraints)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFN0


Finally, if you want to continue running a front axle bumper and you are breaking the stock plastic units, go with aluminum :D. Seriously, there are blue aluminum parts available, but idk where. You can strengthen the plastic part by running a New Era aluminum skid plate, which I ran for quite some time but have since removed because it restricts ground clearance. You might not care much, so here:

Front or rear bumper
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=391

found the bumper mounts
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=495

I would highly recommend the center skid plate, http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=395, regardless of what you do. It protects the transmission and even if you don't think you'll need it, run your truck with it and you'll see scrapes in it. It is VERY durable. The hardware is soft though, so be careful.

wow, I need a life. hope this helps, ask moar ques7ions if need be! :)

[MonsterDDT]

Hi,

I'm new on this board. I inheritted a stock TXT-1 from my young cousin which he just run a few times. I was from the Tamiya Frog era when I was in high school and initially thought this monster truck thing is a piece of junk. However, shortly after I test ran this truck, I realized it's a total different experience than those buggies and I'm totally thrilled!

I immediately did a few upgrades:
- 4WS
- Titan 550 motors
- EVX-2 waterproof ESC
- Tamiya balloon for the receiver

Now, I run it on 14.4V. The speed and handleing is much better.
I used my pocket pc with GPS to track the speed. The bone stock MSC with 7.2V is 7mph. The 14.4V EVX-2 now pushes it to 14mph. I've read some threads on this board and found some posters mentioned their txt go beyond 20, 25, 30 and even 40mph. I wonder if they actually timed the speed or just by visual. Before I timed mine with 14.4V I thought it was running at 25mph too.

Anyway, I have a question now, I wonder if I should lock the diff. I realized the wheels spin a lot when trying to climb. But then mine is 4Ws, I don't know if it can run at pavement if I locked it. Is there a way to do it half-n-half? I saw some poster mentioned playdoo. Will that make it a limited-slip-differential (LSD)? I think LSD will have the benefit of running both on pavement and climbing. What do you guys think?

Thanks!

DDT

[cfjan]

Let me know if you find a good solution!

I tried heavy grease and they basically just get squeezed out... the diff isn't the sealed type design. I'd prefer the type that's used in 1/8th buggy where you can tune it via diff fluid..

[MonsterDDT]

Thanks for you tips Cfjan. You are such a dedicated member on this board. I thought no one watches this thread anymore. ;)

BTW, I like those pictures you posted very much. I think you are also good in photography right? Which camera and lense did you use for those photos?
(And I think you need a person to drive the truck, one person to shoot the pictures, right?)

DDT

[7urb0_c471]

A quick update on my TXT: I got two Integy 35t lathe motors for my birthday, so I quickly soldered in Deans Ultra Plugs and installed the pair with the stock Clod pinions. I chose Clod pinions for two reasons: first, the TXT pinions wouldn't come off my Chameleon motors; second, I had wanted slightly lower gearing for slower speed, better torque, and longer run time.

I charged up my 6-cell 3300 pack and was very pleased with throttle response, the smooth power delivery and controllability, and the balance of torque and wheel speed. It is a little slower than the stock TXT with 27t silver cans. Run time was 27 minutes total, and the truck continued to deliver near fresh-pack torque and speed until the 26 minute mark. The 40-Series Mashers hook up incredibly well. This weekend, I will lock the rear differential with JB Weld and see how it goes -- I may lock the front later on.

[cfjan]

LOL, thanks! :D

Actually, I take pics while driving... I use my right hand on the camera.. while left hand on the radio.. ha!!

I just have an old Canon G6.. nothing spectacular.... (by today's standard) :eek:




Thanks for you tips Cfjan. You are such a dedicated member on this board. I thought no one watches this thread anymore. ;)

BTW, I like those pictures you posted very much. I think you are also good in photography right? Which camera and lense did you use for those photos?
(And I think you need a person to drive the truck, one person to shoot the pictures, right?)

DDT

[MonsterDDT]

Thank you for all the tech tips. Very helpful.

I completely rebuild the truck in the past week.

Since it was originally build by my young cousin, I was suprised to find out so many mishap he did. It's lucky that I found out in time, otherwise the gears in the rear axle is going to blow in no time. (I'm running 14.4V:D)

I ordered full bearing set from ebay for $12 includes shipping from HK. Very good deal! I also replaced the real drive shaft with Revo shaft according to your instructions. Very easy to do indeed. The only thing I did differently is that I use the original traxxas cross pin to pin it down on the tranny side instead of using the tamiya threaded screws. So I don't need to tap the hole. It's a pretty tight fit and I need to enlarge the hole just a little bit (less than .5mm).

I also used the playdoh (thanks to my daughter) to lock the diff. As expected, it's not totally locked but with a much higher fiction. It's close to LSD. But it seems getting loosen more and more as I run it. Will see how it goes.

One thing I immediately noticed is the handleing. The steering is now less responsive. Actually it's a kind of weird, handicapped. I think it's due to the LSD diff. Wonder what happened to you guys' dead locked diff? I'm still using two regular servos for steering. Now it's much harder for them to turn. I guess I may need to swap in some high torque servos finally.......

I also installed the newera center skidplate. Very beautiful piece of hardware. Don't even want to scratch it. :p

The performance is much better and smoother due to the ball bearings. I should have done it earlier since it's just a $12 bucks upgrade!!

DDT

LOL, thanks! :D

Actually, I take pics while driving... I use my right hand on the camera.. while left hand on the radio.. ha!!

I just have an old Canon G6.. nothing spectacular.... (by today's standard) :eek:

[cfjan]

Yeah, always run full bearings on every kits! :D

I run 1/4th scale giant servo and they steer the heavy TXT w/ ease! I love seeing the giant servos in the TXT, ha!!

Locking the diff certainly will affect the handling.. on high traction area, if you run 4WS, you might also snap the dogbones.. (just from the speed differential from the 2 big tires..)

I just left them open.. this is not a crawler for me!

[dont slow down]

Hey guys, I have a TXT and am going to try to get it running again tomorrow. I have been having a lot of problems with my steering. The servos flex a lot when I steer. I remember people doing some sort of above axle mod but never figured out how to do it, any pics or advice?

[dont slow down]

Well I got her going again today, fixed the rear steering, cleaned up my motors, and just gave it a good scrub down. Im running dual 550 titan motors on a novak super rooster with a single 7 cell stick pack. I believe i have 9 tooth pinions in there. Im running a JR XS3 radio, and XTM 175, 105 servos (cheap and strong). I locked both axles, added a center skid, tossed the sway bars, and added a cup of BB's to the font tires. This setup is just perfect for crawling, good power, good traction, I love just cruisin this thing around the back yard!

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/IM000924.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/IM000923.jpg

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I think I stripped my front servo today, :(

[cfjan]

No servo saver installed?!

[dont slow down]

No, every servo saver I have tried flexes and gives too much and the tires dont go from full lock to full lock. I have tried the Kimbrough heavy duty, the RPM, Traxxas, and Duratrax and they all just give too much. I would really like a solution to this steering problem, the servos move side to side when I turn. I dont know what to do. I know there is a swap you can do but I dont know how to do it and dont know if I would be able to make the parts anyway. Suggestions would be helpful.

[4wdmt]

Maybe you can try fitting this type of servo saver:

http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=190

Looks cool too!

[dont slow down]

Hmmm that looks really cool, might have to pick one up. What about re-locating the servos? You have any info on that?

[4wdmt]

Nope. sorry.

But I read some crawling forums for TXT-1 that they take off the bumper/servo mount and move the servo on the axles (like how they do with the clod). I also read about Behind The Axles sevo steering placement...but it is mostly for racers. In any case, you will be needing to purchase or modify the whole front end.

[dont slow down]

Well I guess Ill have to do some research on that then. I took apart my servo and the gears were not stripped. There are two small posts that the gears spin on. The one in the center, maybe the idler shaft, the hole in the top half of the case that holds the pin straight broke. Very odd place to break. I may contact XTM about this since I think it was a defect in the molded case. I also think I will still get those servo savers and some nice servos, but probably not till I figure out the swap.

[dont slow down]

Well I finally finished my mods to my TXT and what a difference they made. I still have a few small kinks to iron out but for the most part I'm done for now. I installed Revo rod ends, Revo shafts, changed shocks and oil, moved both servos to the back of the axle (well the rear servo was already behind the axle so technically I moved it in front), added weight to the front of the truck by switching the battery box from the rear to the front, added weight to the front tires, ditched the front servo mounts and bumpers, moved the lower links to the tops of the axles, and trimmed the body a little. I havent taken it out on any rocks yet but it did really well on some tree stumps in my yard. I got a lot of help from the guys on another rc crawling forum which made things a lot easier. Here is a pic of how she looks now.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0343.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0344.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0346.jpg

[7urb0_c471]

You got the steering servo clearance worked out?

[dont slow down]

You got the steering servo clearance worked out?


For the most part. I still get a little binding just before maximum articulation. Nothing major though. I ended up putting some spacers in between the servo and the mounting plate. Still hits the top link a tiny bit. I will probably fix that when I eventually cut my frame and re-do the link mounting points. Hey are those 40 series beadlocks on your rig? Im looking at those rims for mine but am a little concerned with how they would look and fit. Did you have to get adapters or anything? What are your thoughts on them? Ive seen a few other kinds that I like for about 90$ for 4.

[7urb0_c471]

If you are into rock crawling specifically, go with the narrow beadlocks. I went with the standard width rims, which offer no clearance issues when paired with the RC4WD even if you do all the steering mods. I am running the 40-series Mashers, which provide a ton of traction on a variety of surfaces (moabs are better on dry, smooth surfaces though).

I also have the heavy duty steel dogbones and stub axles from RC4WD, but they do not wear very well; the drive cups are wearing into the dogbones' cross pins pretty deeply. I am running the truck with twin 35T Integy lathes, 11t pinions, and fully locked drivetrain on somewhat high traction surfaces, but I am still disappointed in the steel quality. One stub actually bent, but they sent a new set for free. They do begin to bind at large steering throw. If you upgrade, go with the Thunder Tech CVDs. They are more durable, have nearly zero backlash (so no wearing on pins), are very smooth, and allow even better steering clearance.

The 23mm adaptors from rc4wd are fantastic though, and I have had no issues with them. Fit is perfect, they look awesome, and they are very lightweight.

http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l215/adanmtxt1/TXT-1/?start=all

[dont slow down]

Well I recently took a camping trip and took my TXT along for some crawling time. The behind the axle steering setup had its advantages and disadvantages. I moved the servo on the front axle to behind it now. Its out of the way, better approach angle, a very good idea. The rear axle is a bit different. The stock setup has the servo to the rear of the truck. I moved it in front of the axle but it didnt work out too well. The rear servo is very exposed there. I often found that I was getting hung up on my rear servo horn. I think either moving the servo back behind the axle or on top of the axle would be a better option. I also learned that the truck would really benefit from having the chassis cut. By cutting the chassis I would lower the trucks center of gravity, increase ground clearance, and would eliminate the cantilever suspension. As much as I think the cantilever suspension is cool, by mounting the shocks directly to the axle I would eliminate lots of annoying torque twist. So that is my next objective. I will take pics and post them as I go in case others are interrested. Here are a few pics from this past trip.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0507.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0351.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0352.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0354.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0366.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0367.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0508.jpg

[DCLXVI]

Interresting set-up, I choose a simmilar approach on my TXT, it's not dialed though, I can't get full throw on the wheels...

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=40428&id=3327

[dont slow down]

I see you added a nice big skidplate to the rear axle. Good idea. I was going to move my rear servo to the top of the axle, like this guy did:

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/frontaxle.jpg

[DCLXVI]

I'm planning on moving my servos to the top of the axle but I currently have the cantilever suspention still in the front...
I acually removed the skid from the rear as it didn't really do anything...

[dont slow down]

I finally did the chassis mod, have yet to try it out but I did a write up on it and posted it in the rock crawling section.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0554.jpg

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Been tweakin on the TXT for awhile now and she is starting to get dialed in. Got a set of 9 tooth pinions and it made a HUGE difference. I also bumped it up from 6 cells to 8 cells, wow what a difference.