Tamiya TXT-1 v3.0

[ProjectTwin]

rodzombie and TXT, reminds me of...

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt2/superbeast.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt2/superbeast1.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt2/superbeast3.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/txt2/superbeasthood.jpg

[rodzombie]

Most awesome paint job on thata TXT-1 ProjectTwin. I like it. Please mail to

Rod Zombie
666 Deadend Drive
Spookville Ohio 1313

:D

[SteveK]

Sigh....

Rob Zombie insipred truck name, and about fruitiest colors you can imagine (Shakes head).

Is Rob on the hood a sticker, or hand painted?

[ProjectTwin]

Ever been to a Zombie concert?

If not, this will give you an idea of where the colors came from...
http://www.mtv.com/shared/media/news/images/z/Zombie,_Rob/sq-zombie-left-hand-mic-nassau-dbu.jpg

http://www.skip2mlou.com/zombie262.jpg

http://www.skip2mlou.com/zombie279.jpg

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
You don't need a fan with that gearging. If you say you just rebuilt it, I'm not sure how far into the rebuilt you went. I also suggest that you check your gearmesh. Also, did you do water / mud running lately? How old are your stock motors? I'm hinting that the brushes might be dirty / worn.

If you rebuilt the axles also, remove one end of the drive shafts and gently spin the tires to check for binding.

Am I'm running 15 Turn Speed gems. Fairly new about 10 runs in them. No WAter/mud. No binding. Gearmesh sound like an E-mAXX.

[SteveK]

Try as he might, Rob's past is coming out:

http://www.metal-sludge.com/ExposedZombie.jpg

That's Rob in the center, from 1984.

http://www.metal-sludge.com/ExposedZombie.htm

[TXT Crazy]

Umm???????? Can we talk about TXT-1s now????

[krisI.925]

ya i tried my home made reciever battery yesterday and it worked pretty well. but i think i didnt solder the positive wire on well enough tho. there was a little glitching when i hit a bump. And BTW did u guys now the TXT chassis conducts electricity?

[junk4calata]

You mean to tell us that you didn't know aluminum conducts electricity? Try chewing on a small piece of aluminum. It would help you with accidental shocks if there were any :D :eek: :confused: :p ;)

[krisI.925]

well i know some types of aluminum didnt. Or they did but just not very well like nickle. When i installed my home made reciever battery under neath the mounting plate right next to the motor i zipped tied it to the side of the chassis and didnt stop to thing that the bars were not covered and would short out the battery. But then i got a clue and put some electrical type on the battery bars.

Also whats a good cheap servo I that would be good for the TXT. Im running a CS-80 right now but i just need something with some more speed and power. And i dont really want a hitec either as i have had problems with them in the past. They kinda wear out to fast to make them worth it.

[Anthony]

krisI.925

are you serious about the cs-80? its just about the most powerful servo you can get.


this is what im talking about:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLN93&P=7

[junk4calata]

Anthony, Aren't you also on the R C M T board? I've been helping someone there with the exact same servo. Its a battery HOG and don't even think of using it with BEC.

And Kris, I was kidding about chewing aluminum foil. If you would like to try it be my guest, but it will self-electrocute you with out you touching anything. It basically uses your bodies static electricity and it acts like a capacitor where it stores it up and quickly discharges it. Not that painful, put I know I don't want to do it again. It almost like when you test a 9v battery with your tongue.

[krisI.925]

Anthony no im not talking about the hobbico cs-80 im talking about the one made my Cirrus. This one : http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/444172.asp
It does give ample torq but it is very slow. So im looking for a desent 1/4(or maybe standard) servo for my truck that is not to expensive and wont drain my battery very fast. It is bad enough since my BL controller draws so much power. I just need something that is faster than .18 seconds and has more than 150 oz of torq and is under 50 bux.

and ya i know junk4calata iv done both when some people have put me up to it.

[TXT Crazy]

Can someone reccomend a good under $200 Dollar 3 Channel radio. I would like JR but Futaba is OK. My JR Pyton went to hell in my TXT. Its jerkind around badly and KILLING my gears/driveshfats. And the other day I was driving it and it ran away from me with the wheels turened to the right into a concrete wall. Things were BENT/Snapped/pulled apart/stripped out/popped out/and generally KILLLED my poor TXT.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by TXT Crazy
Can someone reccomend a good under $200 Dollar 3 Channel radio. I would like JR but Futaba is OK. My JR Pyton went to hell in my TXT. Its jerkind around badly and KILLING my gears/driveshfats. And the other day I was driving it and it ran away from me with the wheels turened to the right into a concrete wall. Things were BENT/Snapped/pulled apart/stripped out/popped out/and generally KILLLED my poor TXT.

Ko Propo EX-11 "Presto"

4CH. Pistol grip. FULLY adjustable. more features than a Airtronics M8. Can be had for $75 on ebay.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by Hairball
Ko Propo EX-11 "Presto"

4CH. Pistol grip. FULLY adjustable. more features than a Airtronics M8. Can be had for $75 on ebay.

I aprecciate the help but what bout JRji3 or something like that. The 170$ JR 3 channel?

[Hairball]

Hmm, so you had a JR radio fail on you, and you want to buy another? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Since you can afford a TXT-1, why don't you buy a real radio while you're at it too?

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by Hairball
Hmm, so you had a JR radio fail on you, and you want to buy another? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Since you can afford a TXT-1, why don't you buy a real radio while you're at it too?

HEY!!! Thats not nice.

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=JRP334275

[Hairball]

Originally posted by TXT Crazy
HEY!!! Thats not nice.

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=JRP334275

No, its being honest.

I recommend a radio thats perfectly suited for the TXT-1, having 4 channels. channel 3 for tranny shifting, channel 4 for whatever you mind can think up (anyone rememeber my on the fly selectable 4WS?).

Then you stick you nose in the air and say "Its not JR, so I don't care", AFTER whinning about how your previous JR radio failed you.

Sorry, I've been using Ko Propo gear for the better part of 12+ years, and have yet to have anything fail me.

[TXT Crazy]

I have no choice.

[Hairball]

So why didn't you ask-

"Can someone recommend a good JR radio for under $200?"

[TXT Crazy]

Well sorrrrryy. I have found the one that I want to buy.

[junk4calata]

Andy,

What about using different receivers? I know for a fact that I can mix Airtroncs / Futaba / JR radios and receivers just as long as the crystals are the same brand.

Nick

[Anthony]

no im not on the R C M T board

i have a big reciver battery to run my 2 servos
the Hobbico cs-80 has 334ozs. of torque and i think .14 speed and will probably never break.

your servo (the currius) has 130ozs. of torque

[TXT Crazy]

:( . I'm feelin week with my 130 OZ.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Anthony
no im not on the R C M T board

i have a big reciver battery to run my 2 servos
the Hobbico cs-80 has 334ozs. of torque and i think .14 speed and will probably never break.

your servo (the currius) has 130ozs. of torque

Actually, I don't have that servo. I use either dual Hitec 645mg or dual Airtronics 200oz ones ( YES I currently run 4WS)

[Anthony]

your 200oz servo will be more likely to break than mine becuse of the size of gears

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Anthony
your 200oz servo will be more likely to break than mine becuse of the size of gears

I'm not competing to see which one is better. The reason I chose it over the 1/4 servo is because it doesn't need a battery pack and because I could also use it down the road in other cars if I choose to, not just for the txt.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Andy,

What about using different receivers? I know for a fact that I can mix Airtroncs / Futaba / JR radios and receivers just as long as the crystals are the same brand.

Nick

I own three or four (can't remember, for they're all back in California) Novak XXtra recievers, and I just move then around as I need them. :D

For my Kyosho MP7.5 "Kanai, I use the R1 exclusivley for it, so it has a true JR Rx in it.

Took me awhile to collect all those recievers too.... ;)

[junk4calata]

Thanks. ;)

[TXT Crazy]

All I need is for my wheels to steer. I'm only running on the road, but 50oz. Just did not do it.

[krisI.925]

Originally posted by Hairball
Hmm, so you had a JR radio fail on you, and you want to buy another? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Since you can afford a TXT-1, why don't you buy a real radio while you're at it too?

Because JR radios come with 3 year warrantys. So if anything does happen to them JR will fix them no charge. I have a JR Python, JR Quattro LITE, and a JR XR3i.

On my Python I use to have a problem with it to. The battery door at the very bottom used to give me some trouble because the battery tabs on it would get caroded. So i have to sand them every once in while other wise the controller will sometimes not work or just turn off if i tilted it a certain way. But other wise it works great after over 4 years.

The JR XR3i is a great radio. I got mine for only $150 brand new. Its comes with a great servo the Z570 i think and a standard precision servo. The Z270 i think its called. Its got all the features you will ever want and is very confortable and balanced. And also its under $200.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by krisI.925
Because JR radios come with 3 year warrantys. So if anything does happen to them JR will fix them no charge. I have a JR Python, JR Quattro LITE, and a JR XR3i.

On my Python I use to have a problem with it to. The battery door at the very bottom used to give me some trouble because the battery tabs on it would get caroded. So i have to sand them every once in while other wise the controller will sometimes not work or just turn off if i tilted it a certain way. But other wise it works great after over 4 years.

The JR XR3i is a great radio. I got mine for only $150 brand new. Its comes with a great servo the Z570 i think and a standard precision servo. The Z270 i think its called. Its got all the features you will ever want and is very confortable and balanced. And also its under $200.

WOW..Thanks...Finally a JR person. JR's are great radios. I did not want to leave the company I have had EXP. with. Cool. I do njot need the sevors...well atleast I do not think. I have a hobbie co servo. CAn I keep this one? I should right? Because it is still a JR radio.

[one_mean_rc10gt]

http://www.******.net/media/MVC-053F.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/MVC-059F.jpg

[TXT Crazy]

Thtas really cool. So you CAN put drivesgfts in it. Can I have it?

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Sure you can have it.... Shipping and handling will be $1000.00
Let me know if you want it.

[junk4calata]

one_mean_rc10gt, what length are your links? What about your wheelbase?

I just ordered 120mm upper and 150mm lower for an estimated wheelbase of 15.5" - 16".

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by one_mean_rc10gt
Sure you can have it.... Shipping and handling will be $1000.00
Let me know if you want it.

What motors does it have?

[one_mean_rc10gt]

TXT Crazy - Magnetic Mayhem Motors Brand New Used Once!!

junk4calata - Wheelbase is 18.5 to 19 inches. I will have to measure my links, I don't remember how long they are.

[junk4calata]

No, need to measure. You're already longer than me. How's it handle with that length? What about the wheel wideners? Made a difference?

[krisI.925]

i was thinking of getting some wheel wideners just to have a better overall size. But only 3/4" doesnt sound like a hole lot.

[TXT Crazy]

OK, I dont want it. Who has the fastest TXT here?

[krisI.925]

probably me.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by krisI.925
probably me.

What motors? How fast?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by krisI.925
probably me.

I might be able to beat you :D :p :) .

I'm not running them cause they are too much for the txt, but I have dual Aveox RC7s. I've tried only 1 on the e-maxx on 12 cells and at full throttle from a standstill, it would flip over backwards. Not move 2 feet, no wheelies, just flip over backwards. Imagine 2 on them on with the largest gear ratio possible on an e-maxx tranny in the txt. Scarry if you ask me. Plus way too many parts breakage.

[krisI.925]

ya calata u probably got me beat.

Iv got a 4200 motor on 12 cells. Thats 60,480rpms and im currently running a 14T pinion which is kinda over geared.

[TXT Crazy]

Hey guys. I have reached my Top-Speed project for my TXT-1 and got past 45 MPH. Anyway now my next project. Rock Crawler. I have spent my whole day at my LHS. and $100 Doallars later and some calls to Tamiya North America and Joe Anderson. I have a rock Crawler. I'm gong to test it tonight.:D

[junk4calata]

Don't remember, do you have the stock tranny or e-maxx tranny? If you have the e-maxx tranny, you can go down to 8t pinions but only with 72t spur.

BTW, only Bolink makes the 8T and its available at tower.

Now about your set up, did you break anything yet because of the motor? They say that the motor and controller is the cheapest part of the upgrade. That's why I took mine off the e-maxx and never installed them on the txt.

[TXT Crazy]

OK I'll say it again:Hey guys. I have reached my Top-Speed project for my TXT-1 and got past 45 MPH. Anyway now my next project. Rock Crawler. I have spent my whole day at my LHS. and $100 Doallars later and some calls to Tamiya North America and Joe Anderson. I have a rock Crawler. I'm gong to test it tonight.






I have a video of my TXT-1. But how does it get from me to you?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by TXT Crazy
Hey guys. I have reached my Top-Speed project for my TXT-1 and got past 45 MPH. Anyway now my next project. Rock Crawler. I have spent my whole day at my LHS. and $100 Doallars later and some calls to Tamiya North America and Joe Anderson. I have a rock Crawler. I'm gong to test it tonight.:D

You spend $100 in 1 day, I do that in 2 minutes sometimes.

BTW, what did you get. For $100 I don't think your running clod axles. I'm still waiting for my links and then I'll post pics.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
You spend $100 in 1 day, I do that in 2 minutes sometimes.

BTW, what did you get. For $100 I don't think your running clod axles. I'm still waiting for my links and then I'll post pics.

Well it was 5 hours but anyway.

I got 13 T inions. Stock motors. Screw bags, that were an unbelivable $30. Motor cleaner. Shock lengthener thingies.


Well Damn, 100$ down the crapper. It wouln't rock climb for crap.
:mad:

[krisI.925]

usually the best rock climber upgrades are the cheapest. Things like oil in the diffs and softer springs and oil in the shocks. Also wheel wideners help to. theres nothing that limits the txt suspension wise. The main problem that u face is traction.

[TXT Crazy]

Ive been working my butt of at my LHS earning money for new tires. I plan to lock the fiffs with JB weld too.

[newracer]

mine will climb just about anything

the only thing I have done is lock the rear diff with JB weld, put OFNA diff lock in the front, removed the zip ties from the sway bars, and screwed the tires to the rims

traction is tough some times though on smooth rocks

[Hairball]

Originally posted by newracer

traction is tough some times though on smooth rocks

That seems to be the hardest obsticle to overcome. I've tried many different things in the past, but none worked with any significant success....

We need traction control like full size vehicles have! :p :p

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by Hairball
That seems to be the hardest obsticle to overcome. I've tried many different things in the past, but none worked with any significant success....

We need traction control like full size vehicles have! :p :p

Hmm...Cant I like just go rip it out of my dads BMW?:p :D :D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by TXT Crazy
Hmm...Cant I like just go rip it out of my dads BMW?:p :D :D

Why not just convert the BMW to R/C? :p :p

There is a suspension system that is possible to build into an R/C that essentially forces all four wheels to be on the ground at all times. Very cool, and simple. But it requires some complicated shock modifications, and plumbing. In theory it should all but eliminate the TXT-1s torque roll effect as well.

Jeepinator gave me the idea some time back, and I've been planing on building a set ever since, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet...

If your interested, email me and I'll send you what I have.

fursphere at yahoo dot com

[TXT Crazy]

LOL..I'm sure my dad wouldnt mind..:p


YGM in 5 mins...Hairball.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by junk4calata
You spend $100 in 1 day, I do that in 2 minutes sometimes.


Hell, I've dropped $1500 in 2 mins before on R/C junk. Can you say "buy it now" on an R/C Helicopter? :p :p :p

I need to get that thing running again...... :rolleyes:

[Hairball]

No, you've got mail. I'd post the diagram here, but I think its copyrighted, so we'll just stick to email for now.

[TXT Crazy]

OK Hairball, we will not let anone know about the top secret plan.:rolleyes:

[krisI.925]

I just got a pair of those 2600NIMH batts from ballistic. Im gonna test them out tomarow if weather permits. There suppose to be the best cell for high draw apps. like BL motors. But everyone says u should charge them at atleast 5 amps. But mine only goes to 4.5. Think that will be a problem. Also I was thinking of getting a second charger since im getting so many batterys now and my TXT needs 2 for each run. So whats a good charger thats not to expensive. Or should i just buy another super brain.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by krisI.925
I just got a pair of those 2600NIMH batts from ballistic. Im gonna test them out tomarow if weather permits. There suppose to be the best cell for high draw apps. like BL motors. But everyone says u should charge them at atleast 5 amps. But mine only goes to 4.5. Think that will be a problem. Also I was thinking of getting a second charger since im getting so many batterys now and my TXT needs 2 for each run. So whats a good charger thats not to expensive. Or should i just buy another super brain.

I use two Novak Millinium Pros myself... Kinda expensive, but I doubt I'll ever need to buy another charger... (well, maybe another Millinium Pro or two, I hate waiting for batteries to charge.... :p :p )

[krisI.925]

i could afford a millenium pro but i cant really afford the power supply to run it off of. I need something that is AC or comes with a power soarce that isnt to expensive.

And BTW i ran my new packs for the first time this morning and they seem pretty good. I still gotta cycle them to see what they can really do but I had great voltage that was constant through the entire run. I had about 10 minuts of run time until the batteries dumped. And when the batts dump they really just kinda stop having any voltage instantly.

[junk4calata]

Quasar Pro (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBAS0&P=7)


Best charger for the money in my opinion. Sure there are other cheaper chargers, but will they last. As for the 959, I wish you the best with it when charging at 4.5A. It will either false peak, or burn up ( most likely ) after a couple of uses. Most people that have had them, including myself, have fried them and will not get them again.

Also, the Quasar, cycles, discharges, and even tells you how much mAh has been injected into the battery ( very handy if you want to see if you battery is still good ).

BTW, it charges 1-8 cells, not 408 like stated on Tower. And it runs on AC / DC.

[TXT Crazy]

I like my Integy 16x3 pro.

[krisI.925]

i was charging my new batts today and each one must have false peaked 3 or so times before it would start charging. And i was looking at that quasar pro ealier today in last months issue of RCCA were they had the 15 "pro" chargers. I like everything about it except the price. I especially like how it has a discharger and cycles. But I would kind of like something that can charge 12 cells at a time not just 8.

How good do you think the duratrax Digital Pulse is. It comes with its own power supply and its under $100. But it is made by one of the companys that I loath the most. And i have found in this hobby u get what u pay for.

Also I was looking at the Triton charger. I have a great planes electrifly charger and it works pretty well. I figured i might get one of these and a wall type power supply.

[Hairball]

I've found that chargeing two 6 cell packs, then joining them together as a 12 cell pack is the best way to go.

I've tried a few chargers that'll do the big packs, and they don't work very well.

[junk4calata]

The duratrax charger gives lots of false peaks also. Go to search in this forum and type it in. You'll see for yourself.

Try the Quasar pro charger on ebay. Aren't you a Tower member? $10 off and free shipping for that item alone.

[TXT Crazy]

Anyway...back to the TXT-1. I just got Prolines 40 series rims and big joe tires for my TXT-1. They look KILLER! They have serious grip too. I just have to glue them on better they ripped off. Man I must suck at gluing tires.

[krisI.925]

iv found that my charger only false peaks when it gets warm. If it stays cool it chargers fine. So i think i might bolt a big ass fan on there and see how that works. If it doesnt im getting just the quasar charger i think. The pro is just to much than what i need and to much money to spend. I can make a discharger for under $10 and cycle the packs manualy. And will still have the superbrain to tell me voltage and stuff like that.

And no im not a tower member but im thinking of becoming one.

[junk4calata]

I would still get the pro. I've used it so I type from experience. The best feature in my opinion on it is that it tells you the total capacity taken into the batteries. Another words, if you charge 2400 mAh batteries, and they only take 1800 mAh from fully discharged, then you will know something is wrong with the batteries.

Also, I've made adaptors for it and use it to also charge: remote batteries, cordless black and decker screw driver, dewalt 9.6 drill, regular rechargable AA batteries. The possibilities are not limited.

I would definitly buy another one if anything where to happen to it.

[krisI.925]

ya but my superbrain will charge all those things also. As long as it stays cool during long chargers. Iv noticed that only when doing consectuative chargers it false peaks. Other wise it works great. I just need something that can work consistantly for a desent price and can charger at a desent amp range. 6.5 seems to be ok but i would prefer something a little higher. Also 180 bux is just to much to spend right now on something like that.

[TXT Crazy]

THIS IS NOT A CHARGER THREAD, THANK YOU.

[one_mean_rc10gt]

LOL:D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by TXT Crazy
THIS IS NOT A CHARGER THREAD, THANK YOU.

YOU DON'T OWN THIS THREAD EITHER.

Get over it kid. The TXT-1 is battery powered, meaning you need batteries to play with it. You need a charger to charge all those batteries, so discussing chargers (like, which one you use for your TXT-1) is just as relevant here as it is anywhere else.

If you don't like it, there are plenty of other threads on this board for you to go cry in.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by TXT Crazy
THIS IS NOT A CHARGER THREAD, THANK YOU.

I do believe that it states somewhere in the forum, something along the lines "anything and everything TXT-1 related".

And as a matter of fact, this isn't a "I'm mad at the world", or driveshaft thread either, but I do believe that you took up quite a few posts with those subjects yourself.

Sorry crazy, this thread didn't become so popular and large with just pics of txt-1s - which is what you seem to want. You have to learn to share postings.

[TXT Crazy]

:( . Sorry. I'm no good after 10 P.M.:( .

[TXT Crazy]

.

[krisI.925]

is there a millenium charger that novak makes? I know they make a millenium pro for like 140 but iv never heard if just plain millenium.

[newracer]

the pro replaced the original

[krisI.925]

oh. does anyone know how to decrease the turning radius besides 4ws.

[SteveK]

Can you trim the steering knuckles/carriers to get more steering throw? If not, increasing the truck's width somehow should help a little (And help clear suspension links, which is a problem on Clod Busters).

How long is your wheelbase? those 13"+ wheelbases are good for stability, but kill your turning radius. Ever looked at the trucks from the NR/CTPA Worlds? They all have relatively short wheelbases to get around the corners more quickly.

[pcjr]

can anyone please tell me where I can get the propeller joint assembly - part # 9415824 (mp1 & mp2, 2pcs each). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by pcjr
can anyone please tell me where I can get the propeller joint assembly - part # 9415824 (mp1 & mp2, 2pcs each). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Why our good friend, Hua at RC4WD.

http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&shop=city&L=eng&Category=2003

[krisI.925]

i never thought of shortning the wheel base. The I do have those spacers on the lower rods that i could take out and try the other mounting holes on the TXT chassis plates.

[SteveK]

Well look at full-size cars and trucks: The quickest rally cars are the ones with the shortest wheelbase, for quick transitions in corners.

With monster trucks, notice the 'Patrick chassis' trucks, like all the Bigfoots (Or is that Bigfeet?) and most of the trucks on the Monster Jam tour have a relatively short wheelbase when compared a few of the Overkill trucks and Gravedigger 12. Dennis Anderson has said he prefers the shorter wheelbase trucks for turning courses and freestyle, and I might be getting my facts mixed up a little, but I remember he went back to the oldest tube-frame truck (#7, first with the green frame and 4-link) rather than keep running the longer #12 while waiting for #14 to be built. #12 is probably now on 'secondary market' duty.

I have a load of pictures from the NR/CTPA-style races, and most guys seem to have about a 12" wheelbase, maybe a little less. All the Team Tweaked trucks look like they keep their wheelbase almost in line with that of the Maxx bodies many of them use.

See the picture below, or the photos of the modded Jugg with Hummer body elsewhere in the Tamiya section.

[hua15]

Any of you guys who have been following my project on the TXT-1 forum, I started on Friday night, I was looking for a lots of torque and build a truck that utilize the advantage of both clod and txt-1.

The chassis is a custom polished TXT-1 Lightweight chassis. With dual slightly tilted battery trays, it has the capability of holding 4 7 cells packs. I only use two packs, it was more than enough.

I end up using Mayhem as motor, they are a little bit bigger than standard motor and it is known to have a lots of torque.

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/1.jpg

Dual Super Chicken side by side setup, the air flow so freely, they are kept very cool. Also the way the 4 links is setup, there is 0 side movement. Why I use clod axles, what else, low CG!

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/2.jpg

Articulation, oh yea baby!

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/3.jpg

Fully locked front and rear diff gear, make rock crawling as easy as driving down hills. :rollin

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/4.jpg

It has so much power, it would do this anywhere anytime!

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/5.jpg

Want more! Say it loud! :lol :lol :lol

-Hua

[hyperstang]

HUA......

one word............D A M N!!!!!!!!

kEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.....

[SteveK]

Nice. I wanted to use a TXT-1 chassis on my Clod, but they were too much to be a 'quick fix' that I wanted. I could just actually build the brass tuber for less money and less time than it would take me to earn the money for it.

I have an idea for a TXT-1 layout that should really help performance, but I don't have one to try the stuff on and I don't want to just give it away for somebody else to take the ball and run with it. Hopefully I'll be able to pick one up this summer (Even a Jugg 2 would work) and test it out.

[TXT Crazy]

Nice work Hua. JUst wait in 2 years mine will look like half that.:rolleyes:


:p ;) :D

[krisI.925]

my esc fried again. i dont know what i can do now to keep the thing cooler.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by krisI.925
my esc fried again. i dont know what i can do now to keep the thing cooler.

Install a servo on your throttle channel and have the servo activate a switch that will power a relay which will in turn allow power from the motors directly to the motors. No more ESC worries, cheaper too - :D :D











Oh yea, it will only have 1 speed thou - FULL throttle !!!.

I hope you know I'm not serious right now.

[krisI.925]

even if you were it wouldnt work. I have a BL motor and power switches wont work. I just need to figure out why it got so hot when i turned the reciever off and it wasnt even moving.

[zero0000]

Hey all... Just picked up my new TXT-1 today, although we won't speak of what it's gonna due to the credit card bills... Oh well, you've gotta pay to play. I also picked up full bearings and a Super Rooster. I intend to begin the assembly tomorrow, after I get out of work (I work third shift as a correctional officer). I have read darn near all 97 pages of this thread, but if anybody could summarize noteworthy issues during assembly, that'd be great. Thanks...

[hua15]

Thanks guys, here a couple more:

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/6.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/7.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/8.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/txt1/sxt/10.jpg

[TXT Crazy]

Very nice, Hua. Looks great.

On another note: How many people here would buy a custom made all aluminum trailer for a TXT-1?:confused:

[junk4calata]

I'd rather make my own. Raw aluminum, brass, hardware are very, very reasonably priced at mcmaster. Besides, it'll give me something to do to pass time.

[krisI.925]

i just use my radio flyer.

yesterday was a bad day for me. I opened up my speed controller and found that half the FETS are completely fried. So now I need a new controller. Which means my new charger might have to wait a little longer. Luckily I have huge pay check commen my way.

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey guys, I'm sorry to just jump in here, but I've been in rc for a few years, and I am hoping to get a TXT1 in a few weeks. When I get it, which thing should I get first: Ball bearings or a EVX esc? I have about 130 bucks to blow, and i need some advice.

(TXT-1 is the best truck out there)

thanks

[krisI.925]

well first of all I wouldnt buy the EVX at all. Second even if you do I would still get the bearings instead. You will want to install them while you are building the truck to save your self some work time later on. The MSC will do at first but later on you will probably want something other than an EVX which will probably blow a few months after you have it. If i were u I would save up for a Super Rooster and some Magnetic Mayhams.

[newracer]

definitly bearings first

[TXT Crazy]

Yes, bearings would be the best think to get..first. Otherwise it takes a REALLY long and FRUSTERATING(sp) time. Then the Super Rooster. My MSC only lasted about 2 weeks.

[Adanmtxt1]

Originally posted by krisI.925
The MSC will do at first but later on you will probably want something other than an EVX which will probably blow a few months after you have it. If i were u I would save up for a Super Rooster and some Magnetic Mayhams.

why would the EVX blow? it works perfectly in an EMAXX. is it easy to wire a dual motor set up on the Super Rooster? ive only done single motors with touring cars.

also, i dont know who makes the Mag. Mayhems.

thanks for so much help!

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by Adanmtxt1
why would the EVX blow? it works perfectly in an EMAXX. is it easy to wire a dual motor set up on the Super Rooster? ive only done single motors with touring cars.

also, i dont know who makes the Mag. Mayhems.

thanks for so much help!

Yes its not hard at all to wire up a Super Rooster for 2 motors. I have heard story's of the EVX catching on fire. I would not want that to happen, and I'm not about to take that risg with my 1,600 TXT-1.

I'm pretty sure Kyosho makes the Mayhems, I'll have to check

[marcusg]

Gentlemen, Ready to start building my TXT and by looking at the instructions, kinda of getting fustrated. You see I had built a few Helicopters and planes in kit form but what I notice is that the TXT kit is nothing like other kits I built. For one instead of a "parts" bag for each step, reading the instructions, it appears that all the "parts" are in different part bags instead of seperate sub assemby bags for each step. Is that correct or am I missing something. Anyways if that is the case, do you guys have any pointers/advice for me to aid me in the construction of this kit ? Thanks in advance, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

One more thing. I'm gonna run an SR ESC, according to the SR instructions, you could run the ESC in series or parallel. What would be better with the stock motors, single battery pack ? Also where should or could I get a "full" ball bearing kit for the TXT ? Boca Bearings or RC4WD.Com, or ETC.

Thanks, Marcusg

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by marcusg
Gentlemen, Ready to start building my TXT and by looking at the instructions, kinda of getting fustrated. You see I had built a few Helicopters and planes in kit form but what I notice is that the TXT kit is nothing like other kits I built. For one instead of a "parts" bag for each step, reading the instructions, it appears that all the "parts" are in different part bags instead of seperate sub assemby bags for each step. Is that correct or am I missing something. Anyways if that is the case, do you guys have any pointers/advice for me to aid me in the construction of this kit ? Thanks in advance, and any help would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks, Marcusg

No, the parts are in different parts bags. If you think this is hard, I shouldtell you that TAmiya has the best instructions out there. As for building tips...hmm..THINK JACK! *yelling at self*. Use grease....umm...take your time...use threadlock...double check everything...I know there are other things but that should be a good starter. I will tell you tommorro when I have more time...UGGGG...Latin.

Edit: Is he a TXT-1 person now? Welcome to the fourm! where everyday brings new stuff and money problems!:D :D :cool:

[newracer]

Actually you will use most of the screws and parts from each bag before you need to open the next. I agree that Tamiya kits have the best instructions out of any R/C kits.

[marcusg]

Have you seen a JR helicopter kit instruction book ?

[TXT Crazy]

Nope. Is is good or bad?

[krisI.925]

ya iv built 2 tamiya kits(actually the only kits iv ever built) and they were very easy. Escpecialy comapred to building my planes which just took forever for doing the smallest things. Main thing to do is just take your time. All the parts fit together so its hard to screw things up.

And a tip before you build, get one of the tackle box trays with all the deviders and stuff and use it for all your screws, washers, gears, etc. and then on the top label cover label the different sections from the parts bag. I did this with my TXT because I couldnt build the entire thing at once I did it every so days because of my crappy job. It makes things run a lot smoother. And BTW your not suppose to use the entire tube of thread lock.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by krisI.925
...And BTW your not suppose to use the entire tube of thread lock...

You coudnt have told me that when I built mine.:rolleyes: . All my screws are ruined.:(

[krisI.925]

ya i know most people have the commen sence not to use all of it but I keep on seeing TXTs at my lhs where people have blue stuff all over there screws because they thought you were suppose to use the entire tube.

[junk4calata]

Like the saying goes, make it idiot proof ( very good instructions from Tamiya which specifically tell you ONLY where to apply thread lock ) and someone will become a better idiot.

:D :D :D

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Like the saying goes, make it idiot proof ( very good instructions from Tamiya which specifically tell you ONLY where to apply thread lock ) and someone will become a better idiot.

:D :D :D


:( , now I feel like an idiot.:p

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by TXT Crazy
:( , now I feel like an idiot.:p

I wasn't pointing fingers, but if you want to feel guilty for it, I'm not going to loose sleep over it. :p :p

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
I wasn't pointing fingers, but if you want to feel guilty for it, I'm not going to loose sleep over it. :p :p



:p . Its OK, kinda a joke on my part.

And by the way guys I got a Digi camera so I will be able to take lots of new pics, and I will try to geta short video of it.:cool:

[TXT Crazy]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/pc0dbf4f32bd0383727bce49be212f00f/fc377987.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p9fb30315fc215e891684e5aa186e8d20/fc377993.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p6350d211935809d3023565add8ab565e/fc3779a1.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p37fac55cedda0da7169d4907f330e378/fc3779a5.jpg

In this next picture, my Dog's favorite just happens to be the most expensive. She lobes to chase it around, I will get a video of it soon.:cool:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p402972923a0f5e7007afc58505b3de23/fc377664.jpg

[junk4calata]

Never was good with animals so I gotta ask, what type of dog is that? I like Him/Her.

[Adanmtxt1]

nice truck!

do those wheels/tires make the TXT-1 any wider?

also, how does a stock TXT1 perform? does it need a change in oils for the shocks, and springs, or does the stock setup bring out good single-wheel articulation?

thanks

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
Never was good with animals so I gotta ask, what type of dog is that? I like Him/Her.

Its a yellow lab, but we got HER from a breeder who "Makes" (couldnt find the right word) then white. Thanks.:cool:

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by Adanmtxt1
nice truck!

do those wheels/tires make the TXT-1 any wider?

also, how does a stock TXT1 perform? does it need a change in oils for the shocks, and springs, or does the stock setup bring out good single-wheel articulation?

thanks

Yes, just a LITTLE. They have VERY good grip.

The stock TXT-1 is a great rock crawler. You shouldnt need to change anything, IF thats what you want to do. But if your like me and are strictly on-road. I would suggest buying a set of Tamiya super low friction dampers-long. Keep the springs it comes with. Use 70 WT. shock oil. And buy shock spacers and use the right ones so it lowers the truck about1/2 inch. The setup is wworking GREAT for me and it actual-ly inporoves the lifespan of my stock driveshfts because they are like _ instead of like /. thats a little over drawn but you get the idea.

[krisI.925]

you only use your TXT for on road use? Whats the purpse of even owning the truck then.

And BTW im ordering a new speed controller soon, RumRunner hobbies is giving me a pretty good deal. So I should be back to breaking the drive train in 2 weeks or so.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by krisI.925
you only use your TXT for on road use? Whats the purpse of even owning the truck then.

And BTW im ordering a new speed controller soon, RumRunner hobbies is giving me a pretty good deal. So I should be back to breaking the drive train in 2 weeks or so. \


OK, dont get me mad, I am frikin pissed. I have 2 nsets of shocks, tires, body, bumpers, and gearing. One COMPLETELY for on road and the other for off road, GET IT!?!?

[krisI.925]

Ah ya i got it.

But why are you getting so mad. I didnt mean any disrespect just asking a simple question. Sorry if I got you mad.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by krisI.925
Ah ya i got it.

But why are you getting so mad. I didnt mean any disrespect just asking a simple question. Sorry if I got you mad.

NO, not your fault I'm mad at my TXT-1. I am seriosly considering selling it.

OK, I but my 15's back in and accidently made one motor spin in the opposite direction of the other, my bad. I set the trottle trim to full throttle and turned it off and fixed it. Turened it on and watch it head for a brick wall at over 40 MPH. "D*M*!T", was the end result. I broke my 50$ ESP lights. The motor still trying to go, I picked it up and the motors spinning at full trottle, ESC smoking. I get in back to nutral. ESC is cool and everything seems OK. Well my front left tire got flled up with air. I set it down and took it for a run, a fast one. I tried to turn and the inflated tire caught on the body sending TXT-1 soaring through the air. Lands perfectly. its OK I though. I took it for another pass but little did I know my Rear Steering Lockout broke, unexpectedly the rear tires turned sending my truck into another flying roll. Landed upside down and broke my nice blue aluminum shock. :( :( :( :( :( :( :(

Well, :( :( :( :(

[junk4calata]

To re-surect a older post, originally by hairball:

I got tired of the insane cost of maintenance on the truck. The TXT-1 doesn't run on battery juice. It runs on cash.

Maybe you should start listening to your elders txtcrazy.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
To re-surect a older post, originally by hairball:

I got tired of the insane cost of maintenance on the truck. The TXT-1 doesn't run on battery juice. It runs on cash.

Maybe you should start listening to your elders txtcrazy.

What was that for? I know what he said. Why would that effect what I said? That made no sence at all.

[junk4calata]

re-read your post and then my post. Its about the txt-1 costing too much money to operate.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
re-read your post and then my post. Its about the txt-1 costing too much money to operate.


Sorry, I was [retty mad at some of the guys over at the Porsche Cayenne thread. I'd never sell my TXT-1. I love it to death, but good news guys. I am soon to get lots of money, I am going to sell alot of my old stuff.:)

[junk4calata]

let me know the thread that you will put them in. I'm interested in what you have to offer.

[TXT Crazy]

Originally posted by junk4calata
let me know the thread that you will put them in. I'm interested in what you have to offer.

LOL, do you like Lego's?:p . None of it will be R/C stuff...unless....you want umm....half of a tranny case cover for a TXT-1:p .

[krisI.925]

any of you guys got any tips of decreasing the turning radius.

[newracer]

4WS, better servos and servo savers

[krisI.925]

iv tried 4ws before and it doesnt work to well. The truck just flips all the time. i do have a better servo saver and i have a servo with 130oz of torq.

[hua15]

TXT-1 Axles & Jugg bumper

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/juggernaut/tube/1.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/juggernaut/tube/2.jpg

[krisI.925]

were can u find that bumper at and will it mount directly on the TXT-1 axles.

[junk4calata]

What happened to the thread? Split into 3 I see. I kinda liked the one thread better. Easier to search in only one thread and I liked the BIG numbers ( 99 pages )

[4wdmt]

guys, just wondering. whats the biggest pinion you can use with the TXT and what will be its speed with the stock motors? thanks in advance for any reply.

[krisI.925]

I think the highest pinion made which is 27T I think. I do know it goes as small as 8T.

[4wdmt]

thanks kris. but will 27t pinion really fit the TXT? i want to have decent speed/acceleration with enough tourque to climb anything on its path. as of now, my TXT is plain stock, except for the 7cell, hi-torque servo and super rooster. thanks for any input guys.

[krisI.925]

a 27T pinion is higher than you will ever want to go. Its usually best to stick between 10-20 teeth. The best gearing for top speed and yet good torq is probably the stock gearing. Im currently running a 8tooth pinion but I normally will run a 12 or 14.

And hua where did u find that Jugg bumper at. Iv been trying to find one but cant and does it directly mount on the TXT?

[krisI.925]

has anyone tried the new HD shocks from rc4wd.com. They are off the x factor and im thinking of getting a set if my traxxxas sliders keep breaking.

[4wdmt]

thanks kris. i will keep the stock pinions for the meantime. another question, which is best? series or parallel wiring for the two motors of the txt. both wiring diagrams are illustrated at the novak rooster esc manual, but what do you guys use? Are there any pros and cons? thanks in advance for any replies.

[krisI.925]

there is no better set up. Its just which one you prefer. First of all what kind of set up are you running like motors, ESC(s), cells.
When your motors are wired in series they have half the power they normally would. So when you have 2 motors wired in series they have the power of a single motor. When they are wired in parallel they are full power and you get the power of 2 motors. Of coarse when in series you will have longer run times and your motors wont wear as quikly. So if your rock crawling you might prefer series but most people run in parallel.

[4wdmt]

thanks kris. now i got the logic when using series and parallel wiring. i will go with parallel wiring too. as of now, my txt is plain stock except for the novak rooster esc and 7 cell set up and motors wired in series.

[smallman28]

Can you guys help me out,I was considering getting a TXT and wondered if you could answer me a few questions?
Being as it would be in standard form initially what else would I need,I take it 2 channel radio gear with a high torque servo for the steering,is the speed controller the standard mechanical wiper affair and if so does it have the connection to use BEC for the receiver?
What would be a good battery choice in terms of amh 2400,3000 or 3300,I take it I would only need one battery at a time in the standard set-up,also roughly how long would a battery last in terms of run time?

Thanks

Mark

[krisI.925]

well first of all to get the truck going you will need
-2 channel radio
-1 high torq servo
-1 servo of your choice
-battery
-charger
-12 AAs(8 if using reciever battery)

The stock MSC is a swipe tipe speed controller and has no BEC circutry so you have to use a reciever battery. A good battery would be the best that you can afford. You pretty much get what you pay for when i comes to batteries so I would buy some large named braned batts like GP or Sanyo. The capacity and type is up to you and your needs.

As for run time I dont know. I never ran my truck with stock set up but with 1500 packs I would guess around 6-8 minuts and with 3300s I would say around 15.

Also you might want to look into getting a ESC for the truck instead of using the MSC. In a truck like the TXT a ESC will make a big difference and will definatly be worth every penny.

[junk4calata]

In stock form, you would get 10 min on the 1500 and a little over 20 on the 3000s.

Also, Jetback batteries are your best bet for the money.

[BigBadTahoe]

I am also thinking about getting a TXT since I already have an E-maxx as my performance MT I wanted a rockcrawler. If I put silly puddy in the diffs,"both I am guessing" to lock it up is that a good idea? I also was wondering what a good esc to run with the double motors? Do you wire it by a parallel setup? What turn are the stock motors by the way? I want to have sheer power so will the stock motors be good enough or should I plan on getting some kind of triple or quad 18 or so turn motor? Sorry for so many question but I need some serious info! Of and for power I'd better get a 10t pinion right?:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[smallman28]

Quick,someone tell me this thing is awesome and I will buy one now,money is burning a hole in my pocket

[smallman28]

You were too slow,just went an got one of ebay!
All I have to do now is get the radio gear and batteries etc,this is going to be a slow build I feel,still its half the fun.

[krisI.925]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
I am also thinking about getting a TXT since I already have an E-maxx as my performance MT I wanted a rockcrawler. If I put silly puddy in the diffs,"both I am guessing" to lock it up is that a good idea? I also was wondering what a good esc to run with the double motors? Do you wire it by a parallel setup? What turn are the stock motors by the way? I want to have sheer power so will the stock motors be good enough or should I plan on getting some kind of triple or quad 18 or so turn motor? Sorry for so many question but I need some serious info! Of and for power I'd better get a 10t pinion right?:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Silly puddy should work. But its usually better to use silicon but either silly puddy will do the job. The Super Rooster seems to be the ESC of choice for most guys. Its rated to dual 15T motors on 10 cells and can go higher with a fan. Most people run there motoros in parallel as the truck needs a good amount of power to move at any desent rate. The stock motors are 32T I believe. On 6 cells the stock motors will probably not satisfie your needs. On 10-12 cells it might work but I would suggest something in the 19T-16T sinlge or double range. Or some Magnetic Mayhams work well to. For a lot of torq a 10T pinion would work well. But it matters how much torq/speed you want. Remember the txt tranny has a stock 34:1 gear ratio. So you will probably wnat to gear up.

smallman the thing is awsome. Welcome to the club

[BigBadTahoe]

Wait I'm confused, I thought a quad motor has more torque than a single or is it the other way around? Which ever one has more torque is the one I want because I don't want speed I want pure power! As for being 34:1 does that mean it already is geared for power? If I got some 20 turn or so mayhems would the truck be more powerful than the stock motors or just faster? Is the super rooster my only choice? I just want to be able to have enough power so I could pull like 10 -20 pounds or so is it possible with the stock motors?:confused: :confused: :confused:

[krisI.925]

higher the windings the more RPMs and the less torq. So you want a lower winding like single or double turn. And FYI the magnetic mayhams are 22x1. The truck is geared for some good torq stock but you may wnat to gear down or gear higher depending on what you would like. And the SR isnt your only choice there are several more alternatives. The truck will be faster and have more power with the MM. I dont think you will want to keep the stock motors for what your planning to do.

[Janders]

What are the 'torquiest' 16-17T's you can get(brand/type)? I'm running team orion rush 17X2's and was wondering if there was a better 'low-end-power' set of motors to run

[junk4calata]

If you read in past posts, the motors with the most torque are the stock motors. To get a little more speed, install 8 cell packs ( they can handle it just fine ). If you want crazy torque, install 12 cells but be prepared to break the driveline.

Kris, the stock motors are 27turns.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by Janders
What are the 'torquiest' 16-17T's you can get(brand/type)? I'm running team orion rush 17X2's and was wondering if there was a better 'low-end-power' set of motors to run

Kyosho Atomic Force (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXW934&P=7)

[hyperstang]

Anyone know where I can get a set of shafts so I can lower the height of my TXT...

Thanks

[krisI.925]

iv seen people use turnbuckles off of touring cars to lower the height of there truck.

junk4calata what kind of wind are on the motors, single?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by krisI.925
iv seen people use turnbuckles off of touring cars to lower the height of there truck.

junk4calata what kind of wind are on the motors, single?
You're kidding right? Just incase you missed Tower's specs in big bold letters, they are Kyosho Atomic Force 17x2 Motor

[krisI.925]

nah not the atomic force i know those i ment the stock mabuchi motors.

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by krisI.925
nah not the atomic force i know those i ment the stock mabuchi motors.
Sorry. I called Tamiya cause I coun't find the specs on line under a minute. 27x1 motors.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by hyperstang
Anyone know where I can get a set of shafts so I can lower the height of my TXT...

Thanks

I'm pretty sure the stock drive shafts will work. I have mine lowered about an inch, no problems.

[hyperstang]

What are you talking about????

How can the drive shafts lower the height of the TXT, I have extended my TXT by using the Traxxas tmaxx plastic shafts along with longer links, but my height stays the same, pretty much.

I am talking about the shafts that connect the drive axles to the cantelevers, I need shorter ones. Maybe I will use onroad turnbuckles and see how that goes... Race on

[junk4calata]

Pick which length you want:

Traxxas Turnbuckle sizes:
Size P/N
36mm 1935
46mm 1936
54mm 1937
72mm 2335
96mm 2338
105mm 2339

[rustlerman1]

http://www.orp.com.au/RC%20Madness/RC%20MonsterTruck%20Madness_01.wmv this is a video of some rock crawling. this stuff is sick. they have txt-1,clod buster, and some other trucks. Here is other video http://www.orp.com.au/RC%20Madness/RC%20Monster%20Truck%20Madness_02.wmv

they take some time but it is worth it.

[BigBadTahoe]

Wow those are some awsome rock crawlers. What kind of motors and gearing are you using for that real slow torque driving? I am thinking about getting a TXT for all out crawling are the stock motors and gearing good enough? Should I put silly puddy in the diffs? Make the sway bars real loose? Any suggestions will help. thanks.:confused:

[rustlerman1]

DubDucedDurango i found those video's the internat." sry bout that"
but i would take the swaybar OFF, it makes the truck very soft for rock crawling. but for the diff i would just lock fr,rr diff's. And get the magnetic mayhem motors very good for tqurk, and they are the best motors "in my opinion". And get a super rooster for the esc" very good for the txt-1

later,
zack

[BigBadTahoe]

I will get the magnetic mayhems if needed but are the stockers really that bad? I just want enough power to crawl over uneven terrain and minior stones. I know that stock speed control has to be replaced, the super rooster sounds like a pretty good idea. I didn't want another really expensive truck.:(

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
I will get the magnetic mayhems if needed but are the stockers really that bad? I just want enough power to crawl over uneven terrain and minior stones. I know that stock speed control has to be replaced, the super rooster sounds like a pretty good idea. I didn't want another really expensive truck.:(

If your really intend to keep your stock motors and don't want an expensive truck, I have 2 suggestions.

1) Super rooster like you said
2) 2ea Mtronics ECO 20 ESCs (
see here (http://hobbypeople.net/gallery/159120.asp)

[BigBadTahoe]

Would that cheap esc handle 2 motors correctly? What turn does the esc have to have to work with the stock motors? What I mean is how high can an esc turn limit be before it would be to high to handle these 2 motors? Was also thinking of a duratrax or traxxas esc too.:confused:

[junk4calata]

The Eco 20 is rated down to 20 turns. Once in a while someone has problems with them at 20 turns, but for stock motors, they are fine. They are also water proof and under 1/2 the size of the SR. Keep in mind that you will need 2 of the ESCs for 2 motors on the txt-1.

[<ans>]

Hi everybody, I don't own a txt-1 yet, but i am planning on getting one, i just have one question (sorry if it's been asked before) but what do all of you prefer? 2 wheel stearing or 4? i just wanna know so i can get a total cost, because i dont really want to buy a servo i'll never use. Thanks alot.

[krisI.925]

I prefer having 2ws. 4ws is good for rock crawling and slow speed cornering but if the truck goes over 10mph with 4ws things get out of controll very quikly.

And dub duced durango you can also wire your motors in series. The truck will not have a lot of power but it will have desent torq. You will probably not want to do this with your stock motors because you truck will have a very small amount of power but with hotter motors(the MMs for example) you can have them draw half the amps but still have the same amount of torq and will be able to buy a ESC with a higher turn limit. So for example if you want to use 2 10 turn motors you can buy an ESC that will only need to handle down to 20T motors.

Series: 10T + 10T = 20T load
Parallel: 10T + 10T = 5T load

[JEEL]

I just picked up a TXT-1. I have loved the Clods for over 10 years, but never owned one...too serious into racing to own a play truck. Yes, I was an idiot! Finally, I own a TXT-1, and I am curently building it. I purchased a Hitec HS-645MG servo because it has over 140 oz of torque at only 4.8V! (over 160 at 6.0V)This is important because the LRP F1 Pro Reverse($100) and Duratrax 8T Pro Reverse($70) only have 5.0 amp BEC. The Super Rooster has a 6.0 amp BEC, but I could not afford to drop $120. Therefore, I purchased a Duratrax 8T Pro Reverse ESC (awesome ESC for $70 bucks!).

With my ESC being rated down to 8 turns, I am assuming that the lowest turn motors that I can run are 17 turns, correct?

17/2 = 8.5

Also, does anyone have a pic of hoe to wire in parallel or a series? I am confused on how to setup 1 esc for 2 motors and i battery.

BTW, my truck will be used only for rock crawling.

Thanks eveyone!

[BigBadTahoe]

Sounds like Jeel is wanting to do the same thing I want to. For just slow rock crawling I have decided to start out with the stock motors and I was wondering why you say to use 2 esc instead of one good one like the super rooster or duratrax 8t? I also would like to see how to wire this truck because if you had 2 esc you'd need 2 batteries right? I also like the idea of 4ws how exactly does it work? I would be using my 3xri JR radio for it and it said something in the manual about using the 3rd channel for 4ws not sure how to hook it up though? Please explain, pics are also help. :D :confused:

[<ans>]

Sorry for my noobie questions, but where is the best place to get a txt-1 on the internet? I would prefer them to have international shipping, i made a shopping cart on tower hobbies and it came to $650, so i would really like an alternative shop. Thanks alot.

[JEEL]

Unfortunately, the TXT-1 is expensive no matter where you go. I purchased mine from a local hobby shop for $320. I bargained with the shop owner to get this price. My arguement was that the truck had been sitting for over a year on the shelf, so he hooked me up.


Also, I want to clarify what i am running for equipment....

1 Duratrax 8T Reverse ESC

1 Hitec HS-5645MG Digitial servo (I am planning to install a second servo as well to engage 4ws)

1 XXTRA reciever

Hitec 3D radio

Stock RS540 motors

Lastly, any info on locking the diffs? I do not want to JB Weld (epoxy) them, in case I wish to return to regular diff action. Are there any greases or oils that will work?

[JEEL]

DubDucedDurango,

For 4WS, you need a 2-into-1 adapter for your servos. Each servo is connected to the Y end of the adapter and the single end is put into the receiver slot.

If you want to operate the front and rear steering independently, Yor can run the rear steer off of your 3rd channel, by inputing the rear servo wire into the 3rd slot of the receiver. Your radio should allow you to select which method of radio command you desire to operate the 3rd channel.

[egdinger]

JEEL ofna makes something called difflock fluid. i have know idea if it works, it also may need a sealed defferential, i din't think the txt's is, so it may leakout.

[smallman28]

I was planning to get a LRP speedcontroller and eventually a couple of Reedy 14x2,is there anything to be gained in the way you connect the motors to the speedcontroller?
Is it better to connect the two motors together first and then to the speed controller or connect the speed controller to one of the motors and then use jump leads to connect to the second motor?
At the end of the day it has the same effect I know,but which way have other people done it.
Is it possible to get two sets of motor wires into those Deans type connections?

[JEEL]

Actually, I just checked with my radio, and I do not think that the second half of my statement was correct. I do not fully understand how to make 4WS operate independently. So, I guess the Y-connector is the easiest way.

[SteveK]

To make 4WS independant, like a real monster where you can steer the front or the back, you need a 3 channel radio. Just hook up the rear servo to the 3rd channel. Then you can work it like the big boys, to tighten the steering radius, crab walk, whatever.

A Y-connector will have both servos working all the time.

[hua15]

http://www.rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/ultimate/sxt/jump/1.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/ultimate/sxt/jump/2.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/ultimate/sxt/jump/3.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/ultimate/sxt/jump/4.jpg

There are two more ultimate trucks been build for my customers, both will be even more powerful and custom. Stay tuned.

-Hua

[krisI.925]

does anyone here own a JR XR3i radio. If so do you know if the 3rd channel is self centering. I think it isnt but im not sure.

[egdinger]

I own an xr3i, and I think it depends on how you use it. if it is to switch gears, no, but i think if you mix to the throtle or steering then i think it would center.

[BigBadTahoe]

I have the XR3i and I was a little confused also on how they explained 4ws setups with the 3rd channel slot. I don't want the rear to turn everytime I turn the front so the rear would be controlled by the little up and down switch on the handle right? Sorry about all the questions but will locking the diffs with silly puddy really make a noticeable difference in how it drives? Like what would be the pros and cons of doing this? I still haven't decide on doing that yet. Please help.:confused:

[egdinger]

i don't know what your asking about the radio, what up down switch? there is no 3 position switch, you would have to use it to adjust the end point or something?

[krisI.925]

i believe he is refering to the C button. Im not sure if thats just a simple button or switch or not. I think how its set up is that normaly the truck will be set up at 2ws but if you hit the button then they are mixed so you have 4ws.

[smallman28]

Is it possible to fit a 1/4 scale servo in to the TXT,will it physically fit ?
Something like this one

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN597&P=0

[BigBadTahoe]

Yes I am talking about the C button on the handle right below the steering wheel sort of like the T-maxx radios. I though if you push down it would steer the rear left and if you hold up on the switch it will turn the rear wheels right. I am pretty sure thats how it would work but if not please tell me. I figured I could run 2 645MG Hitec servos for steering and a Duratrax 8t esc for throttle control, will that all work correctly? What type of reciver would you recommend that will work good with the JR XRi3 and take Hitec style plugs and the Duratrax esc correctly? If theres anything I am missing or forgeting please say so. Also I wanted to know if locking up the diffs is really a good idea, I mean you could still rock crawl with them setup normal right?

[Hairball]

Oh man, how quickly my project has been forgotten...

If you want On-the-fly 4WS (via pushbutton) check out www.txt1.net and look under my mods section. There is a detailed guide on how to build such a system. It works very well by the way.

-Hairball

[BigBadTahoe]

Great site except the videos won't work for me, I have never seen this site before. I still would like some other guys to through in some suggestions also! Just incase theres different ideas.:D

[Hairball]

The site has been around for quite some time, but I haven't worked on it in long time as well. :)

I'll try and add some more content to it soon, and get some more pictures of my three TXT-1s and E-Maxxes up sooner or later.... :rolleyes:

What is it that you want to do with your TXT-1? Like, the primary goal you want it to accomplish?

[rodzombie]

Here are some pics of my TXT and my friend Brandons TXT. Mine is the red and black Chevy bodied one and Brandons is the blue and black Dodge bodied one. We were crawling over some rockes we found by the creek bed that runs through my grandfathers farm in Kentucky.
http://photo.starblvd.net/~rodzombie/3-1-1.jpg?i=1056455885&pw=*65183ED450D6

http://photo.starblvd.net/~rodzombie/3-1-2.jpg?i=1056455925&pw=*6A183ED4513C

http://photo.starblvd.net/~rodzombie/3-2-1.jpg?i=1055552600&pw=*71F83ED451B8

[BigBadTahoe]

I just want a truck for sort of show and slow but powerful ability to climb over objects in its way. I already have T&E maxxes and an array of other trucks. This would be my first slow sort of vehical with 4ws. I have never built an MT ethier, just St trucks, and taken apart my maxxes. I will take all the info anyones got.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Hi guys. I am going to start rock crawling with my TXT-1 but I have a problem with getting full articulation. I get full articulation from lifting the left wheel up, looking at it from the back (see picture #’s 1, 2, and 3), but when I lift the right wheel up it still has further to go (see picture #’s4, 5,and 6). I have looked everywhere to look for binding or something. Has anyone else had this problem? If so how do you fix it? Or can’t you fix it?

#1
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pdc5f035ad3c09800ed7f6a42c9b1a389/fc0e3cc9.jpg

#2
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p31ce7c6535560856ba12c3866f91db2f/fc0e3cc4.jpg

#3
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pe00d8db9c9c0e274e779bf37f260e9aa/fc0e3cd3.jpg

#4
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pebed01f4ac160dbdc016ca241222dae0/fc0e3ce0.jpg

#5
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p3c86e7385638d6d0a37d3103a25865af/fc0e3cbb.jpg

#6
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p239e38ca2cd58656e053bf49425a4932/fc0e3ce8.jpg

[JEEL]

What oil, piston and springs are you guys using for serious rock crawling?

I set mine up with 2 hole pistons in the stock shocks with 27.5 weight oil and Losi Yellow truck springs. It is super cushy and allows full articulation but I am wondering if I should stiffen it up?

[UE SuperMaxx]

Cushy is good, you want it pretty darn soft. I think it should work fine how you have it. And by the way I figured out what the problem with the articulation was, If you really must know I will tell you.

[JEEL]

What was it??? Now you have me interested. From the pics, it was clear that a problem existed! What was it?

[JEEL]

Hey Supermaxx,

What have you done with your diffs? Locked? Thanks.

[rustlerman1]

dose any one have this on there txt-1??? http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=71179454x8589&session=3ed54133028da720&L=eng&P=ME-001

[krisI.925]

its probably either your drive shafts or your sway bars.

rustler i dont have them but iv seem some trucks running them. They do aid in rock crawling and will give the truck better handling under heavy acceleration. But they will increase its turning radius.

[BigBadTahoe]

I wanted to know if it is better to wire the TXT stock motors to a super rooster in paralle or series? Also will 645Hitec MG servos be stong enough to make the 4ws work properly?:confused:

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by rustlerman1
dose any one have this on there txt-1??? http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=71179454x8589&session=3ed54133028da720&L=eng&P=ME-001


I have something very similar. I can tell you all about them. What do you use your TXT-1 for>?

[krisI.925]

there is no better way. One just gives more power and the other more run time. And those servos should work fine.

[Janders]

I just got this on my MT for steering, and it is very storng(especially for the price). At full speed the wheels will turn. Even with one wheel on a curb the wheel will turn.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by Janders
I just got this on my MT for steering, and it is very storng(especially for the price). At full speed the wheels will turn. Even with one wheel on a curb the wheel will turn.

Ham many OZ. of torque does it have?

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by UE SuperMaxx
Ham many OZ. of torque does it have?

106/133 hams of torque :D :D :D

It would have been faster if you searhed for it yourself, but ... (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ89&P=7)

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by junk4calata
106/133 hams of torque :D :D :D

It would have been faster if you searhed for it yourself, but ... (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ89&P=7)


Cool, mine has 130.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by JEEL
Hey Supermaxx,

What have you done with your diffs? Locked? Thanks.

I have the rear one locked wit silly putty. :( . I dont know where to get JB weld or anything, plus I cant spend the extra money on a pre-locked diff for RC4WD. All my money(what money?) is going into my E-Maxx right now. Silly Putty actual-ly works quite well for 1 yu.:rolleyes: :( :( :( . But it does help.kinda.not really.:(

[smallman28]

Nothing original I'm afraid,but heres my bog standard TXT.
Still needs radio gear yet and will probably end up getting a LRP speedo and a couple of hotter motors before it gets used at all.
Cant see the point running it in stock form to just strip it down again a few weeks later to fit the other parts.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by smallman28
Nothing original I'm afraid,but heres my bog standard TXT.
Still needs radio gear yet and will probably end up getting a LRP speedo and a couple of hotter motors before it gets used at all.
Cant see the point running it in stock form to just strip it down again a few weeks later to fit the other parts.


GREAT idea. What you really dont want to go it strip it back down to put Ball Bearing into it. That was a pain in the butt.

[smallman28]

First thing I did before I even got the kit was purchase a bearing set.
I can't stand those metal bushings I always have to have bearings,and yes it's a lot easier to fit them as you go;)
Has anyone used any of the Varad lighting kits,I was specifically asking about the neon body lighting kits.
I thinking it might be pretty cool to have a blue glow coming from somewhere in the chassis shining down on the suspension links.

[UE SuperMaxx]

In a min I will upload some pics of my TXT-1.

[UE SuperMaxx]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pe1d3917cad926c12ff91449a9d55250b/fc08eebf.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p6a96213547284ce07bdcb1647a769ba2/fc08eec5.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p7ca9706a107a470e09867b3338c35506/fc08eecd.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pde0d7d03252c4078cff252b9a2df3952/fc08f120.jpg

STREEEETCH

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/pe00d8db9c9c0e274e779bf37f260e9aa/fc0e3cd3.jpg

[JEEL]

Are used using broken cylinder blocks to crawl on? How is it? I was going to purchase a truckload of boulders to build a course but cylinder blocks seem like a good idea.

[Janders]

My truck weighs ~7 lbs and I'm currently running dual 17T's with ~25 timing(LOTS of top end speed, but lacking torque wise). I have a ESC that can handle 2 12+ T motors, which I'll probably run at 0 timing. Any good options out there? I want to keep my gearing where it's at.
Thanks for your help.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by JEEL
Are used using broken cylinder blocks to crawl on? How is it? I was going to purchase a truckload of boulders to build a course but cylinder blocks seem like a good idea.

We had block left over from our new house, so I put my anger to work and smacked the **** out of 'em. They work bretty darn well, and they were cheap. I like it cause you can arrenge 'em just about any way you want.:)

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by Janders
My truck weighs ~7 lbs and I'm currently running dual 17T's with ~25 timing(LOTS of top end speed, but lacking torque wise). I have a ESC that can handle 2 12+ T motors, which I'll probably run at 0 timing. Any good options out there? I want to keep my gearing where it's at.
Thanks for your help.


Holy ****, what are you trying to do beat SteveP's 100 MPH Super Nitro?

[krisI.925]

I would suggest some kyosho magnetic mayhams. I believe there about the most torqiest motor out there.

I some a pair of GP3300 matched stick packs in the mail today :) . I only wish i would get my new ESC already so i can run them. Not that it really matters anyway cause its been raining all week and temp has been in the 50's. Atleast all those global warming hippies have shut up.

[dabait]

Originally posted by UE SuperMaxx
In a min I will upload some pics of my TXT-1.

Holy Socks! Is that how much articulation these have stock? I don't have one (yet), so I don't know... just looks like more than other pictures I've seen.

[Janders]

Originally posted by krisI.925
I would suggest some kyosho magnetic mayhems. I believe there about the torquiest motor out there.


I just wish they came in something other than 22T. I just can' t see 'downgrading' from my 17T's to 22 T's. Can I just run 12T touring motors? Won't 0 timing create more low end torque?

[smallman28]

Just ordered two Reedy Pulse R, 14x2.
Now all I need to go with them is a decent ESC.
Is the Super Rooster that much better than the LRP Pro1?
I can get the LRP quite a lot cheaper than the SR yet most people seem to use the SR.

[UE SuperMaxx]

Originally posted by dabait
Holy Socks! Is that how much articulation these have stock? I don't have one (yet), so I don't know... just looks like more than other pictures I've seen.


Just about, I do have a little bit longer 4 links, but you should get something very close to that.

[UE SuperMaxx]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p66cf15fb1d5b228bf61b983c3e393039/fc06017a.jpg

[UE SuperMaxx]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p66cf15fb1d5b228bf61b983c3e393039/fc06017a.jpg

[UE SuperMaxx]

Sorry: double post.

[junk4calata]

Just wait till you see what a layoff is doing for me :D :p :D :p :D :p

[UE SuperMaxx]

UH OH! I cant wait.

[smallman28]

DOH!!
Just cutting out the spare body and have basically managed to rip it in half!
Scored around the front wheelarch and was just tearing it off when it suddenly got a bit tough,yanked it to hard and it ripped right across the bonnet:(
It seemed to tear very easily though.
Good job you get 2.
On a slightly different note does anyone use any kind of heat sinks on their motors?

[UE SuperMaxx]

Na, they will not fit.

[junk4calata]

traxxas heatsinks do fit and they are $10 for 2. Search at tower.

[BigBadTahoe]

I just ordered my TXT-1 today from the LHS. I also ordered a super rooster novak esc right along with. Am I suppose to wire that in parallel or series? I think I remember someone said parallel for running the SR off one pack? I can't wait till it comes in, so I can get building! Its a good idea to put silly puddy in the diffs for rock crawling right? Anything else I should be aware of??? Thanks!:D :confused: :)

[UE SuperMaxx]

You'll have to check with someone else about series or parallel. Is your truck going to be a 100% rock crawler and nothing else? If it is use JB Weld in the diffs. If you want to run it like around a dirt track or jump or something use silly-putty so it is easily removed for that stuff. If you go back a couple of pages we listed some building tips for the TXT-1. Check it out.

[smallman28]

Typical,got my Reedy motors today only to find that it was in fact only 1 and the other is on back order and may take upto 2 weeks!
Did manage to get some cheap second hand radio gear though,only transmitter and receiver as I will be using a LRP ESC and a Hitec servo when I can afford it.

[UE SuperMaxx]

:confused: . What LRP ESC do you plan to use? This is totally confusing me. You plan to run 2 reedy motors with 1 LRP ESC?

[smallman28]

Originally posted by UE SuperMaxx
:confused: . What LRP ESC do you plan to use? This is totally confusing me. You plan to run 2 reedy motors with 1 LRP ESC?


Yes,unless this is steering me in totally the wrong direction.

http://home.att.net/~dgelowitz/txt_faq/

[BigBadTahoe]

I think I am going to wire it in a series for more torque and longer run times than in parallel. Does it hurt the truck if you jump it with silly puddy or JB Weld in the Diffs? I am mostly going to be doing a lot of slow driving and climbing steps with it but sometimes jumps are pretty hard to resist when I you have a track in your backyard! Are the stock motors 550's? Can you use something like the core stocks that are 540's I think? Tryin to clear up that article in MT Magazine.

[UE SuperMaxx]

NO, you are NOT wiring in series. YOU TRUCK COULDNT EVEN MAKE IT UP A RAMP WITHOUT 6 turn motorS.

[Janders]

I think that would be the equivalent of 3.6v per motor.

[smallman28]

Would it be okay to paralell wire like this?
Seeing as the endbell is positive on the one side and negative on the other as far as I can see it should work,yes?
I am just trying to avoid soldering two wires (jump wire and wire from ESC) onto just one terminal on the motor as it awkward at best.

[dabait]

That should be ok IF:

1) the motor plates that you're using to bridge can handle the current of a second motor being drawn through them. I doubt this would be a problem.

2) the wire leading from the ESC to the first motor can handle the current of TWO motors at full load.

[smallman28]

Originally posted by dabait
That should be ok IF:

1) the motor plates that you're using to bridge can handle the current of a second motor being drawn through them. I doubt this would be a problem.

2) the wire leading from the ESC to the first motor can handle the current of TWO motors at full load.


How else could it be done then,would it really matter if it was done another way,surely the end result is the same?

[junk4calata]

That would be fine. I along with thousands of others around the world have done it and never heard of a failure.

And to clarify wiring questions, see here (http://clickonpc.com/rcdoc/wiring.htm)

[BigBadTahoe]

Oh I didn't know a series is so bad. I guess I'll go parallel then. I just saw the rock crawler in the MT edition of RCcaraction and he set up his truck with the SR in a series. I wonder why he wanted so little power then? Am I missing something here or what?

[Janders]

Either pounds or grams, with one battery pack

[junk4calata]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
I wonder why he wanted so little power then? Am I missing something here or what?

Poor man's power / traction control.:p :p :p

[dabait]

Originally posted by smallman28
How else could it be done then,would it really matter if it was done another way,surely the end result is the same?

Not necessarily.

You could have both motors with their own set of leads connecting directly to the speed controller. In THIS case, each set of leads is only carrying the current for the motor it is connected to.

As that drawing shows, that one set of leads between the motor and the ESC is carrying the current for BOTH motors. All I'm saying is that you need to make sure the wire is heavy enough for the total current it is expected to carry.

In both of the above situations, the motors are wired in parallel, but the loading on the wires is different.