HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v2.0

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

is it stock?
How much are you looking for?
I might be interested in just the miniZ (without controllers, or battery)

[rcmania67]

Can we fit a 400 or a 540 motors in stock chassis? I hate spending $85 for a conversion kits. Pls help

thanks

[KevanB]

Eh? I kinda want to get rid of everything. Uhhmm maybe 50 for just the car? Thats just a guess :confused:

but I REALLY want a trade for a used micro chassis!

[trager]

rcmania67
It is posible to drop a 400 into a stock chassis,but you will have to custom fab a motor plate from a piece of sheet metal. I have the team orion carbon chassis, but is pretty much the same as the stock one. I posted a pic so you can get the idea. If you have questions about anything just ask.

[trager]

never mind, i cant get the picture to post. i can e mail it to you.

[orbitron]

Hey all, I just picked up a Micro and I think it's great. I bought it because i wanted to paint something more realistic than my Evader. The problem is my existing electronics are WAY TOO BIG, and they make the car look really bad.

Therefore I have two questions.
1. What is a good, CHEAP, micro ESC?
2. What is a good, CHEAP, micro Rx?

Also, I have some AA Energizer NiMh rechargables, they have 1.2V and 1850 mAh, would this be a decent set of batteries to use?

[orbitron]

And one more. Oh yeah, would it be possible, (and cheaper) to just get a new chassis that would accomodate the full size electronics? and stick with the 4 AA batts?

[metalry101]

Those batteries should work well for you. Your car will be very slow because it's only getting 4.8 volts, but it will run a long a time. As for electronics, I would suggest either an LRP Quantum or an Mtronics ESC. The Quantum is a lot more expensive, but it's an extremely smooth high end ESC. The Mtronics is waterproof, and for 35 bux you can get one that will handle 8 cells and a 20 turn motor. As for Rx's, I know the Novak recievers are very high quality and tiny, but I don't think they're exactly cheap. Hope this helps a little.

[orbitron]

metalry101 - Thanks I think I'm going to try to relocate the Electronics and that should hep a lot. I don't race or anything I just wanted to make an attempt at concourse (I think that's what real looking cars are.)

[Animeboy123]

O.K. i was wondering are the ratzas micro conversion good?? Also what would be a good charger to charge the ratzas batts up with??

[Clan O'Riley]

i have a stock micro rtr with a hpi modified motor. could i possibly put the orion big block motor in my car with the stock speed controller? i hope i can so i dont have to buy a new one.

[Clan O'Riley]

also about how fast will it go with that big block motor?

[ProjectTwin]

:D

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/1st.jpg

Finally.

[filipinoguy]

That body is''pimp.'':D

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=131031
it has pic of my micro jumping, drifting and one clip where it crashes lightly

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my micro rs4 pics
I don't have much into it... just purple lower bulkhead (i got it free) and stole those 4 washers from my truck. my friend gave me that motor and it's out of a toy...
i think the motor is speed 300 size. I had to shave metal off so i can fit my 8 turn steel pinion on...

It'r pretty fast with the 6 AA 1600mah nimh. Also, I opened the motor up and took some windings out.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p9fe52ec7f64bc3df5ca0fd1184d88e70/fbdaed4d.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pe056e82ae4419346c88d5ca55f0853f2/fbdaed56.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p1db96cd147c8861aaa920a8615fa810f/fbdaed5a.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p30ca73e80995bc36837140c10e9de243/fbdaed60.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pa0041638d4b1d56e975388b518dfac4c/fbdaed66.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pcbc06c74e02bd081fd01d0f3989528b6/fbdaed6c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p820573609a0df0d542b8eb78797a7263/fbdaed76.jpg

[hawk_196]

what's up with the rear shock?

[InspGadgt]

Guys,

The EXO2 chassis from Motek due to be out in June has been pushed back to July now. Check out the pics though they took down the CAD pics and put up pics of the actual prototype...looks like an awesome chassis!

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
It'r pretty fast with the 6 AA 1600mah nimh. Also, I opened the motor up and took some windings out.


Took windings out?

How far off is the balance now?

How does it run?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

lol it doesn't "feel" unblalnced
but it's suitable
It's faster now but i can't use 13teeth or it will overheat

[REDRUM]

i posted a subject over on the elec forum about the motors for the rs4 micro...heres the link

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=131689

[sweetstampeder]

i just got my micro rtr. it is really slow. i am running it with aa batteries and it is pretty slow. i just ordered a new battery pack for it. will that help its speed

[InspGadgt]

yes it will...on the 4 AA alkaline batteries it's pretty slow...though it's as fast as a modified Mini Z. While 4 AA batteries have a voltage of 6v they don't work well under heavy load discharges that RC motors put on them. A rechargeable is better in those cases. Hopefully you went up to a 6 cell pack so you get 7.2 volts which is even faster.

[Grizzbob]

True, with a 6 cell rechargable pack & the stock motor, a micro can be just as fast as a lot of those Tamiya 1/10 scale kits with 6 cell packs & the Mabuchi motor(which may not be competition stock fast, but is still a good clip for a micro)....:cool:

[Macdaddy4738]

hey guys!!

im gettin a Micro RS4 soon...

and i was wondering how much modding i would need to do to put in a stock Nicad pack??

the Nicad pack is from the toy cars....like Tyco....will it work??

[pev942]

any body near the chicago check out www.chicagolandrc.com for some intense micro racing private message me for the winning setup last four weeks

[BigBadTahoe]

Well I am about to order my first micro RC. I don't know much about these little cars but reading through some post I have learned some. I just want something to run around inside to waste time. I want to get a battery pack but I only have a vision peak charger and the lowest amperage setting is 2 amps. Is that to high? How would i connect it to the pack with the tayima connectors? I am also going to get the 45turn Hpi Motor to just get close to 20mph. Please help me I don't want to make a dumb mistake! :confused: :confused: :confused:

[BigBadTahoe]

Could I use this pack http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBLH5&P=7 will it fit directly in the car since I think the 7.2 packs that have that extra cell need modification right? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYR9&P=7 Then if i use this connector to charge the pack using my vision peak at 2 amps, will it work? Please help me I am confused!:confused:

[Grizzbob]

You can use that 6V pack, though you'll get more speed with a 6 cell(7.2 volt) pack, & either will fit in the car just fine. I use industrial strength Velcro in mine, & the 2 rear posts that connect the lower & upper chassis decks can be gotten around by taking out the screws holding them down to install the pack, then threading them back in when the pack's in place. As for charging, while you CAN charge at 2 amps, it's not really recommended, it can be hard on the cells(though some racers do it anyway to try to maximize punch). ProMatch mentions on the instructions for their micro packs(which I HIGHLY recommend, best performing pack I've had & they even have a good price off their website, about $28 for an assembled 6 cell pack) that they recommend we charge them at no more than 1 amp. But I've been doing it at 1.5 amps with no problems, the main thing is making sure your charger doesn't overcharge the pack. You'll definitely need to watch it closely to make sure your Vision Peak shuts off when it should(if it doesn't have an integrated voltmeter I'd get one to monitor pack voltage so you know just when it peaks). Oh & about that little HPI to Tamiya connector adapter, you should already get one in the kit(mine came with one, & I just had to buy one more so I could also use my discharger on other packs at the same time)....:cool:

[REDRUM]

can i modify my car to accomodate 5 to 6 aa batteries?...if so please reply

[InspGadgt]

you can easily make your own 6 cell AA pack but you'll need the wider bodies for it to fit under properly.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my 6 cell AA pack fits under my M# body and M3 bodies are thin

[BigBadTahoe]

Ok thanks for explaining so much it really is helping. I will get the 7.2 volt pack and I should be getting an airplane and charger for it because its a slow stick elec. plane and I will use it to charge a 1 amp. I might try 2 amps but what is the recommended amount of charging time a 2 amps? If I knew then I could just time the vision charger so over charging doesn't occur. I ordered the 40 turn HPI motor also along with it for more speed will it make a good difference? Will I need metal pinion gears with the mod motor? whats a good amount of teeth to go with for a nice topspeed without loosing all you torque? Maybe 12teeth? :confused: Thanks!

[Macdaddy4738]

guys....i was wondering if there was any possible way to make light buckets for the Civic body??

some one told me that this body doesnt have Buckets and i really really want that one...so is there any way i can make them??

or better yet buy them?

[InspGadgt]

Dub,

Yes the car will be faster with the motor. I'd reccomend the 11T pinion for that motor. Metal would be best. Much bigger then 11 and the motor really starts to heat up.

Mac,

I don't think any of the bodies come with headlight buckets...actually very few of any RC bodies come with headlight buckets. Most people jury rig their own mount system. Some just glue the LED to the body near the lights, others drill holes in the body and let the LED stick out a little bit, some people make their own headlight buckets.

[Macdaddy4738]

ok thanks!!

but what can i make buckets out of?

[metalry101]

Just use a spare scrap of lexan.

[trager]

Random observation: A novak spy can handle a speed 400 motor turning a 23 tooth pinion powered by 8 cells!!!!!!!! (close to 12 volts on the volt meter!):

[BigBadTahoe]

Ok thanks InspGadgt, I will get a 11t pinion then for my car. I was also wondering are there any parts that break easly or just need to be upgraded almost right away? How long do AA batteries last in this car? :confused:

[Macdaddy4738]

some how...i ended up getting my Micro TODAY!!!

MAN IT RULES!!!

i love it...

but anyway....how the hell to i take the wheels off?? once they are on thoes hubs are they permanent??

also...do all ESC's make that beeping noise?

[Grizzbob]

MacDaddy, the wheels just slide off the hubs, they're friction fit so they don't need a nut of screw to hold them on. And an added benefit to that is that you can adjust the width of the car by using the different slots on the hubs, installing the wheel onto the shortest slot will make the car the widest possible, & on the longest slot it'll be the narrowest possible(plus there are one or two inbetween for further adjustment & to suit different widths of bodies). Also, about that beeping noise, I'm assuming it's when you apply partial throttle, right? If so then yes, that is normal for high switching-frequency ESC's, it kind of turns the motor into a speaker, at least until the motor's own sounds overcome it.....:cool:

[Macdaddy4738]

so how do i get them off??

just pull them really hard??

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

yup pull
once you get some wear on them it will be easier

[Macdaddy4738]

ok cool....

the ESC is rated at a 7.2 volt batt right??

[2n3r]

Hey can you guys post pictures of your Micro RS4's? Thx..

[metalry101]

I would, but I don't have a digi cam. My Micro is currently under a transformation. I just got the ARM pan chassis, and now I need a new body that's wide enough for it, and some more aluminum stuff. I'll be running a Speed 400 in it one of these days, and I have a 9.6 volt low profile pack from blindbatts.com. I'm kinda sad though, I painted a Skyline that is absolutely gorgeous, and the chassis is way way too wide for that body. I'm thinking that since the chassis is too wide for all bodies except the ARM ones, (which I don't like cuz they don't come w/ decals) I'm gonna narrow it down a touch and mount the widest body made by either Pro-Line or HPI on it. So probably the Ferrari 360 Modena or the new Lamborgini body that HPI has. Both look extremely sweet. Also, anybody have any suggestions on how to mount a Micro servo on the pan chassis since it doesn't have the holes drilled or the cutout in the middle like the stock chassis does?

[Macdaddy4738]

GRRR i cannot get thoes wheels off!!

i ran it out on our churchs brand new parking lot today!

it was a blast! My friend let me borrow his NiMH cells....the let the car run a crapload longer than thoes Nicads i have!

[orbitron]

Box Stock Micro
I love to paint. Here is my first.
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/micro/vw/vwlow11.JPG

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by Macdaddy4738
GRRR i cannot get thoes wheels off!!

i ran it out on our churchs brand new parking lot today!

it was a blast! My friend let me borrow his NiMH cells....the let the car run a crapload longer than thoes Nicads i have!
pull!!!
how old are you?
maybe you can get your dad to help you if aren't strong enough

[Macdaddy4738]

im 15...

i pull...im just afraid i will break something..

[hyperstang]

Hey Metarly101,
I currently run a 150MM Micro with the ARM Chassis. You will love this chassis, I do and for only 12.00 or something like that, you can't go wrong. What I did was mount my Hitec servo on the side of the chassis and made a link rod to connect to my knuckles in the front. I know its hard to describe, but I will post some pics tonight when I have time. I use the ARM GT1 body, but you can use the HPI corvette without shaving down the chassis.

This one is my 150MM Micro Racer and i race this bad boy in Micro races and it has not let me down at all. I currently am working on a 140MM racer made from the Hardcore Pro Chassis. Not all together yet, but wow this thing looks sweet. I will post some tonight also when I can..

Race on...

[InspGadgt]

Sometimes the wheels are so tight when mine was still new I used to have to stick a screwdriver or something in through the spokes to push on the inner wheel as I pulled the outer wheel off.

If your going to use the ARM or stock chassis I suggest thinning the fiberglass to about half it's thickness right were the rear suspension flexes. You'll find this helps the back end stick a lot better and doesn't change the flex point like cutting slots in the chassis.

[Macdaddy4738]

i just got 2 8 packs of NiMH Batterys....1800 mAh...

thank god!!! DECENT RUN TIME!!

[sweetstampeder]

i just received a 1400 mah battery for my micro in the mail. i got it off ebay brand new. there is a guy on there that sells these packs along with a bunch of other micro stuff. the pack i bought works sooooo good, and it was only 12 bucks. his name on there is hi_iq. give him a try.

[metalry101]

hyperstang~
Thanx for the response. I look foward to running my micro a lot w/ this chassis. I don't race yet, but I'm thinkin if I ever get my Micro finished, and I can figure out how to drive it when it's pushing 40 MPH, then I'll be able to dominate. If I can find a class where a Speed 400 and 9.6 volts worth of Blind battery pack are allowed. Also, I think I know what you're say on the steering servo, but that sounds like a pain in the ass. I'm thinkin that I might just drill the holes in the ARM chassis just like what the stock chassis has so I can mount the servo using the HPI Dual Link Tie Rod set I bought. That or shoe goo it on the chassis sideways. That would still allow me to use the dual links, but not the mounting kit that I have. Oh well

Orbitron~ Nice paint job on the Beetle. I like the fade work.

[REDRUM]

my brother is getting an rs4 and he wants the civic, but he wants it rtr, so hes going to get an rtr and just get the civic body, and he was wondering what the wheelbase is on the civic body because it doesnt say, and also which rtr has the same wheelbase, because he doesnt want to pay an extra 9 dollars he doesnt have to for a new belt

[gubby]

my micro is glitching, whenever it gets wide open throttle, the wheels point to the left and it wont steer. i dont know what the problem could be; i changed to some other crystals because a few weeks ago my friend's HPI crystals junked out, i figured it was time for my HPI cryatals to die. so i have traxxas crystals in there now. could someone help me...PLEASE?!?!!?!

im kinda bummed that it started glitching, because i was thinking about selling it(no tracks for it around my house). thanks in advance:)

[metalry101]

REDRUM~
The Civic is a 140 mm wheelbase body. The Viper has the same wheelbase. I don't know what other RTR's have that wheelbase. That might be the only one, cuz the Skyline and BMW are both 150 mm.

gubby~
It could be your servo, or maybe your antenna wire. Try swapping in a different servo and see if that fixes it. Also, has your car taken any hard hits? The reciever doesn't like be bashed much. Also, are the AA's in your transmitter fresh? One last thing, since you say it happens worst at WOT, check to see if the capacitors that are supposed to be on the motor are still there. I don't know if the stock motor has them or not, but I would assume it does. If they've come lose or even all the way off then the motor would make a lot of electrical noise at high RPM's and it could cause the steering to glitch. Hope this helps.

[Macdaddy4738]

hey there guys!

i was wanting to experiment with new gearing considering that the Micro came with 2 extras...

well any way to the point...

#1. How do i get the gear off in the first place??

#2. a higher tooth gear would give me higher top speed correct? and a larger Spurr gear is higher Accelaration? or do i have this backwards?

thoes bodys can take a beating.....i ran my car full throttle into a chair today (dont ask!!:D) and it just bounced off!!

i love my Micro!!

[metalry101]

What gear do you speak of when you ask how to get it off? Yes, you have the gearing correct, except that on a Micro, you can only change the pinion, the spur is integrated into the rear axle, and therefore cannot be changed. And ya, since Micro's don't weigh anything but their bodies are still pretty thick, they do take quite a pounding.

[Macdaddy4738]

im talking about the pinion....do they clue it on?

or is it kept on by friction?

[metalry101]

umm, the good one's have set screws but the stock ones, i really don't know, i've never tried to take that one off. I kinda think that it is glued cuz the plastic is too weaksauce for a setscrew and the motor shaft is too small, or maybe because the setscrew would be the same size as the pinion. I don't know.

[Macdaddy4738]

i was thinking it was glued....but it doesnt say to glue it in the Manuel....***?

i want to use the 13 tooth and see if i notice a difference in speed...

[metalry101]

i doubt you would w/ that big of a pinion. If you're using the stock motor it's probably not gonna have the power to push that tall of a gear ratio. It might, I haven't tried it, but I doubt it would work that well. Just buy a better motor and mount the 13 tooth on it, then you'll get a lot more speed.

[Macdaddy4738]

yea....whats a good motor??

im gonna be racin with my friend and his brother soon....and i wanna smoke em!!

but i need a good motor.....PM THE ANWSERS TO ME PLEASE!! REDRUM MUST NOT KNOW THE SECRETS!! MUHAHAHA:D

[REDRUM]

eff ya macdaddy

[Macdaddy4738]

DIE I MUST WIN!!

i wonder if i can adapt a type of NOS made of CO2 gas cylinders!!

that would smoke you!!!

[REDRUM]

see what an idoit he is?...like he'll beat me

[Macdaddy4738]

heyyyy now....i dont get confused when i drive the car toward me!!

[hyper-7 44]

So you can't use all the bodies with a certain car without changing the belt?

[hyperstang]

Micro bodies are made either 140MM or 150MM. If you want to run either or, you'll just need to change the belt size and whell base if the car is a wide body or a tucked in body.

Race on

[hyper-7 44]

Thanks. Sorry to ask another dumb question but could I put a P2K2 or Revenge of the Monster motor in a Micro RS4?

[Grizzbob]

Well, it CAN be done, but not without serious modifications(I don't know exactly what has been done, but I've seen pics of one that was modified to use a 540 size motor). As for the stock pinions, MacDaddy, the original ones are press-fit, so yes it's basically friction that holds them on. But most of the optional ones you can buy are metal & use setscrews to hold them on(which I do prefer). Oh, & actually it IS possible to use a 13 tooth pinion with the stock motor, but doing so does make the car a bit sluggish from a standstill(sometimes at my local track a 13 tooth is the right one to use, & others I need more punch out of corners so I use a 12 tooth).....:cool:

[hyper-7 44]

thanks.

[Macdaddy4738]

thanks!!

[REDRUM]

im thinkin bout upgrading at a later time to a peak performance chubby motor...i have a couple questions about it...how many turns is it?...also...what toothed pinion gear should i run it with if im only using 4.8 volts...

[hyperstang]

not to sure about how many turns, less than 45 that's for sure. But if you up grade, you might want to run a higher voltage battery. Up grade to the chubby, speed 300, elite mod and run them with at least 6V battery using a 12-13T pinion. My winning combo on my 150MM racer is a speed 300 (10 bucks) along with a home made 7.2V energizer batts rechargables. You can't go wrong..

Race on...keep us posted

[minijosh]

anyone here willing to swap me for my stock micro rs4? i have put ads on the for sale page but no bits.

[BigBadTahoe]

How does the peak 7.2v 6cell 1200mah nimh pack work in the micro? Is it ok to run that many cells with the 45turn HPI mod motor? Was this a good motor to get I just ordered it when I ordered my micro because I like speed! Don't really no much about these micros electronics.:( Please tell me if I am doing something wrong.:) THANKS!:D

[REDRUM]

hyperstang,

about your home made pack...is it just rechargeable aa's?...cause u sed it was energizer...and if it is...how do u make it?...i know id need shringwrap and a hpi micro battery connector...cause if i can make it with aa's it would b worth it...

[Macdaddy4738]

you would also need a sodering gun...and decent sodering skills..

and a charger that can charge it as well

[sweetstampeder]

will the speed 300 fit in my micro without using another motor plate? can i just bolt it to the stock plate?

[BigBadTahoe]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
How does the peak 7.2v 6cell 1200mah nimh pack work in the micro? Is it ok to run that many cells with the 45turn HPI mod motor? Was this a good motor to get I just ordered it when I ordered my micro because I like speed! Don't really no much about these micros electronics.:( Please tell me if I am doing something wrong.:) THANKS!:D

Does anyone have this pack or have some idea if it will be good?:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Grizzbob]

I have the closest thing to it, Orion's 1100mah 6 cell pack(Orion's & Peak's packs are the same, just relabeled). It's a decent pack, not quite as stout as my ProMatch pack but it's pretty strong nonetheless(it's just that those little ProMatch packs are simply astounding in the voltage they put out, actually makes a noticable difference with the stock motor). I'm sure it'll be fine with HPI's 45 turn mod(same goes for pretty much all micro motors, even the big blocks). The ONLY motors I would not use them with are 540 size ones(the motors that our 1/10 scale cars use), I'm not so sure those 2/3 A cells could handle the amp draw of those motors(but the micro sized ones draw MUCH less current). The only thing I'd watch for is motor & battery heat, if either gets extremely hot then you may need to change something(maybe a different gear ratio, or a different battery or another motor, perhaps even switching to a 5 cell pack).....:cool:

[metalry101]

sweetstampeder~
No, you need a motor plate for a 300 size motor because the center hole probably needs to be bigger and the mounting holes are in different locations. If you've already got a 300 motor and just need the plate, you can buy that alone, but if you don't have a motor yet, just get the Orion Big Block conversion. It comes w/ everything you need, and then if you burn that motor up, just buy another Speed 300 and mount it up.

DubDucedDurango~
GrizzBob is right about the battery, if you treat it well, I think you'll be very happy w/ it's performance. As for that motor, I don't know anyone who has run it, and I don't know much about it. I don't think it'll fry on 7.2 volts, but I'm thinking it will go through brushes pretty quickly, so buy some of those, and make sure to keep it clean. But ya, if you're running a setup specifically for speed, the battery and the motor are going to get hot. This is normal. It won't hurt the motor really, as long as it's not insanely hot, but that's not real good on the batteries. Heat is a battery's worst enemy. Anyways, I think that setup will work well for you, just make sure you take good care of everything.

[BigBadTahoe]

OK THANKS! What motors do you guys usually use since you said you haven't seen many people using the 45t mod? Also what is a good pinion to use 9t, 11t? Will my micro be fast enough or is there something that I should be doing to it that I don't know about? Thanks for all this help!:D :D :D

[InspGadgt]

I ran the HPI mod motor with an 11T pinion. It ran pretty fast with that gearing though acceleration could have been better. Most people are running some relabled version of the Speed 300. My HPI would keep up with the guys running the 300 but just barely. I've since gone to a speed 300 myself.

[BigBadTahoe]

I haven't heard of the speed 300? Who sells it? like where have you seen it? should I plan on getting it after my brushes whereout? How long will that take for them to wear out in a micro by the way? Thanks for this info so far!:D :confused:

[metalry101]

The Speed 300 is an airplane motor. It's just a cheap motor like what came w/ the car, but instead of a 180 size motor (stock), it's a 300 size, so you can imagine it has a lot more powerful. You could buy a 300 made for an airplane that would maybe be made by Graupner or somebody like that, or you could do what most people do and buy the Team Orion Big Block conversion kit and run that. The Big Block is a Speed 300 that Team Orion bought and put a stick on. It's the same thing as all the other ones, but it's a lot more expensive because it says Team Orion on it. On the bright side, it does come w/ the bigger motor plate that is necessary to run the bigger motor. It comes w/ the needed hardware as well. You can buy that stuff seperately as well, but in the end it's probably actually gonna cost you about 25-30 bux anyways, and the Team Orion stuff is all packaged together and because the motor has the sticker on it, it looks kinda cool, so it's not a bad way to go. However, if the Big Block ever burns up or something, don't buy another one, just go spend 10 or 15 bux on a Speed 300 w/o the sticker.

Also, if the HPI mod is indeed nearly as fast as the Speed 300, then you might want it anyways. The Speed 300 does have incredible acceleration, but unless you've got a lot of traction, you'll just roast all 4 tires instead of flying foward. You can control it w/ a steady throttle, but that's not as much fun. I don't know if you plan on racing though so I don't know what you're needs are. Anyways, try the HPI mod and see how you like the performance. If you're itching for more speed and acceleration, you can always get the Big Block. The nicest thing about the bigger motor is that you can gear it however you want (within the limits of available pinions). It's got a ridiculous amount of torque, so even w/ a 13 tooth pinion, it'll still roast the tires. Anyways, I'm kind of exhausted so I don't know if all this makes any sense. I hope it does. Just ask if you've got any more questions.

[BigBadTahoe]

wow thanks for the great info! I didn't ever think an airplane motor would work. I just bought a pico slow stick plane and didn't realize a motor like the one on it is so much like the micros motors! Will the stock esc take that motor or do I need to get like a novak spy esc? Also could you give me a link on where this motor is sold so I can look at it? How long would you estimate that this 45t mod motor will last until its brushes are pretty well run out? As for racing I may in the future but as for now I am only bashing around my in my house and my dads buisness area. He doesn't like that! Oh well. Thanks again!:D

[InspGadgt]

Speed 300 with the ARM motor mount:
http://www.microrcstore.com/itemDesc.php?itemNumber=MOT001&cat=4

Speed 300 with the ARM motor mount and quick capacitor board:
http://www.microrcstore.com/itemDesc.php?itemNumber=MOT002&cat=4

[ProjectTwin]

The B main. :(

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/7-6-03.jpg

In true "Jason Racing" style, I bought front diff parts (keep busting diff gears) on the way to the track and assembled the car at the track. Batteries were dead for the first heat (not to mention the dead, leaking cell), so I sat it out while they charged. Fastest lap in the first heat was a 6.3 by a local guy running a wedge body.

Ran the second heat on the 140mm wheelbase with my old NSX body (http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/1st.jpg) I'd won the A main with on June 21st and a front hub popped out...which busted a front universal...not good. It's kinda hard to drive when only 3 out of 4 wheels rotate...not to mention the mangled front end.

So, I ended up in the B main.

Prior to the B main I swapped out to a 150mm wheelbase and a Vette body. Ran the B main and won by 9 laps, with a fastest lap of 6.1 seconds! :)

Since I won the Bmain I bumped up to the A main...

Put the car back on charge (3.5A for 600mAh batts :D) and ended up doing pretty decent in the A main until the left front hub popped out...again! Fixed it at the track and put it back out...behind but running good...

...then it happened.

The car STOPPED dead in it's tracks. Steering worked but no forward movement. Got home and found out that although the motor looked like it was still plugged into the ESC, it wasn't. It'd been knocked loose.

I guess it's time to start hard-wiring things. :? Can't win if you can't finish. :(

Current specs..

RatZas Extreme Graphite Chassis kit
RatZas Rear VCS Shock kit and Graphite Deck
Stock Rear Gear Diff and axle assembly
Speed 300 motor
150mm RTR Vette body
Fresh Kicks foams (no idea on compound)
Hobbico CS12 High Speed BB Micro Servo
Team Orion 10t Pinion
Orion Big Block Motor Mount
HPI Ti antenna kit
600mAh 5-cell pack with Orion Bones battery bars
HPI Pro Control ESC
Integy front hubs
Airtronics 3ch FM RX
Multiplex Profi 403

[Macdaddy4738]

thats awsome man!! good job!!

sometimes my car just stops....dead...it just wont move..

we figured this time that it was the fact that i just ran it through mud.....i hit a patch of gravel and drifted into it...

i drove off the road today too and crashed into a ditch....looked awsome!! Rally car crash!

then i tore the car apart to clean it.....and i couldnt get the servo to work right...it wouldnt turn to the right....well anyway after a couple frustrating hours i finally got it working right!!!

tearing it apart helped me figure out where everything goes...so now i can say i belive i can install anything!!

the servo thing also helped my problem of the car tracking to the left....even with the steering trim adjusted....turns out the servo was in wrong..ah well....its better now!!

[BigBadTahoe]

I was wondering if that is a diffferent esc you used than the stock one to run the 300 motor? Also why would that car have so many problems is it because of to much power from that motor? Why did you only run a 600mah pack? Was it for charging time or what? I ordered a 1200mah pack was this a good or bad idea? What kind of maintence should be performed to keep these micros from breaking easly?:confused: Sorry about all the questions.:(

[Macdaddy4738]

is the Ball Diff worth the money?? im talking about the Rear one.

I am looking at a new Motor as well.....but i dont want to have to cut anything or get a new chassis for it to fit...

thanks in advance!!

[ProjectTwin]

DDD, I'm running the stock pro control ESC from the RTR 'vette

The only problem due to the motor is it's chewing up front diff gears. The rear diff holds up fine (stock gear diff) I swapped out to a front one-way today. Virtually bulle-proof.

The reason for the 600mAh pack is because it's all I had assembled. I have some 1100mAh cells here, just need to build a pack with them.

I'm only replacing/upgrading parts as needed. A buddy of mine got me a set of aluminum front hubs for $12. I wouldn't have bought them if I hadn't busted the lower pin off one of the stockers. Now the lower suspension arms are flexing in wrecks and the lower pin on the hub is popping out. Time for an aluminum lower front suspension...$6 is a good deal. :D

[Macdaddy4738]

hey Twin....hows the Job searching going??

with your engineering skills you will be sure to find one soon...

btw where are you located?

[ProjectTwin]

Job search sucks. No jobs for a guy with my umm...talents in this area.

Hard to get a job when all you've done is repair secure communication equiment for the Army.

I wish I was an engineer. At least people in the area are looking for engineers.

I have no engineering degrees. Wish I did. :(

I'm located in Augusta, Georgia.

[Grizzbob]

MacDaddy, the rear ball diff by HPI is DEFINITELY worth the money, it's the first upgrade I'd recommend to anyone. With it, the car will be quite a bit more stable through corners, because the ball diff is just so much smoother than the stock one(though the front gear diff actually works ok with the stock motor, I still use it in mine). And you might even find that your car feels better off the line & down straights(simply from being able to make small adjustments to it to get the feel you want).....:cool:

[BigBadTahoe]

So if I used the 300 motor would it cause my cars gears to have diff problems? Why are pins and things just falling out is it because of wrecks or what?

[Macdaddy4738]

ah that really sucks Twin....did you get honerable discharge outta the Army? My dad just got kicked out of the Naval Reserve....turns out hes too old and they are making him retire from it!! Look at going to a Community college or something like ITT Tech...

my brother is an Engineer at Northrup Grumman in DC or somewhere around there.....he had a small part in designing the LCAC hovercraft...

i hope to be an Engineer as well....or a Naval Architect...

Grizzbob : ok then..im gonna get the Diff.....but does it stay together when you remove the back and the spur gear? I removed it to get to the Pinion...and the whole diff kept falling apart....so does the ball diff do the same? that would suck to have all thoes balls rolling around every where

[Grizzbob]

Yeah, I'm afraid there's no getting around that, it's just the way the car's designed. It's just like a pan car, you just have to get used to having to take the diff apart to do anything there, but once you do get used to it you won't mind it too much......:cool:

[Macdaddy4738]

i think im gonna order it in about a week

i have in my cart....

the HPI Mod Motor

1 set of set screws....i lost my current one in the rear hub

and the Ball Diff

anything else i should get while im at it?

[Grizzbob]

Well, if you haven't bought some already, you might want some soft rear tires(HPI's wide soft compound works nicely), they should help you put the power of that mod motor down(though the kit fronts should be ok, you might just have a very slight understeer, which is much better than a serious oversteer). And while I'm not as sure about this, it also could be useful to try some aluminum or steel universals up front(the stock ones are fine with a stock motor, but I'm not sure how long they'll last with more powerful ones).....:cool:

[Macdaddy4738]

universals? please elaborate....

[Grizzbob]

Universals are what connect the front diff outdrives to the wheel hubs(they're axles, in other words). The stock one in the micro are made of plastic, which holds up just fine with the stock motor, but I'm told that if you use a more powerful motor, you'll wear them out before long(& if you try them with a Big Block, you might chew them up fast or so I'm told). I'm pretty sure that there are both aluminum & steel ones available though, & either should hold up much better over time(though they'll likely weigh more too, so for the stock motor I'd still stick with the plastic ones). It's just something that could save you some headaches later on....:cool:

[ProjectTwin]

DDD, the pins and things aren't just falling out. There's a small kingpin type pin on the bottom of the front hubs, the front suspension is a hybrid of a touring car and a pan car. There's suspension arms on the car, but the bottom one is fixed and doesn't move. The upper arm attaches to the hub with a ball in the hub and a cup on the arm.

As the hub moves up and down through it's travel the upper arm moves with it and the lower stays in place. I think what's happening to mine is that the lower arm is flexing when I clip corners. It only happened twice, and both times it was because I turned in too sharp and smacked the pipe.

Macdaddy, I have two Honorable discharges. I re-enlisted once, so I got an Honorable then as well as from the ETS.

[Macdaddy4738]

ok i get it....

i cant seem to figure out how the whole front end goes together though....i mean i cant get it apart

oh and the back wheel where the spur gear is....its impossible to get it off....i squeeze it and everything....it just wont come off....what do i do?

[orbitron]

MacDaddy - If you just wiggle the outer rim on the inner rim you can get it off. Put your fingers a little past the tire surface so you are kind of pulling on the inside portion of the rim (the sidewall).

Pull a little with your thumb then a little with your fingers then a little with your thumb...etc. At some point it will just break completely free and the tire will go shooting out of your hand and into the fishtank, or some other place you don't want it to be.

It'll take a while but it WILL work.

[24601]

Hey guys, First off, 600+posts, I'll admit I didn't go through and rear them all.

Here is the plan. I have had 2 micros, mostly stock, since they first came out (on back order before they were even available). They are fun, but I am passing mine on to my son so he can race the wife (they both raced the HPI challenge for their first race!)

Now for me. My local track doesn't race micro, but they do race 12th scale with 4 cell stock. I asked around, and they will let me race a micro with them. I would like to run a 6 cell with a big block or speed 300 setup. I have looked at the Ratzas extreme--I really like that. I also remember an Epic chassis being the big thing last time I looked (about a year ago). I want a good handling and strong chassis for this. I have also looked at the ARM basic flat thing and Penguin--I can't decide. I don't plan on buying a kit, basically build as I buy.

What would you guys recommend? Chassis. what upgrades, diffs? I am thinking ball diffs front and rear, maybe a front one way. I was thinking stock front bulks and steering hubs to keep it light weight, maybe an aftermarket rear housing for strength. Any ideas.

Links are cool, or I can look for it. Just your input, what would you get or have you tried that worked well?

[InspGadgt]

The Epic EXO is still my favorite chassis for the Micro. They have gone through a name change and are now called Motek. This month the EXO2 is due to release. You should check that chassis out. It's really sweet.
http://motekracing.com/exo2page.html

[24601]

Looks busy--could that be too much for such a little car?

So what are my chances of getting a micro to hang with 4 cell stock 12th scales. I realize if they go mod I am lost, but do you guys think with 6 cells and a 300 I can pull it off?

[InspGadgt]

Well that's the same rear suspension in principal as what you see on the 4 cell CRC Carpet Knife 1/12th scale pan car. The old T-plate design they used worked quite well but the mono-ball pivot should work even better.

As far as keeping up with 4 cell 1/12ths...maybe. I've seen em hang with stock TC's using a 6 cell and speed 300 in the micro...4 cell 1/12th should be close in speed to a stock TC.

[Grizzbob]

Yeah, one of my friends has tried playing with his micro with 6 cells & a Big Block alongside my 1/12 scale car with 4 cells & a stock motor at our local track, & speed was pretty darn close(the micro might've even been able to pull on my car a bit), but in turns it was a bit different. I could definitely carry more speed on our concrete track(coated with an abrasive surfacing like they use on some tennis courts), so through corners I could make up most or all of any difference in speed(maybe more). I'd say it'd be very close, though you'd still be at a disadvantage if any contact occured between cars(when a big car & a little car touch, the big car wins pretty much every time).....:cool:

[ProjectTwin]

How's it look?

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/DSC00205.JPG


http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/DSC00206.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/DSC00207.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/DSC00208.JPG

;)

[orbitron]

That's the way the rear suspension should have looked from stock!Where'd you get that rear shock? Is it oil filled?
Is that a micro servo? If yes can a full size one be layed flat on the chassis.

[24601]

Originally posted by ProjectTwin
How's it look?

;)

Looks sweet! Is that the Ratzas chassis? What battery are you going to use?

[ProjectTwin]

Yes, it's the RatZas chassis. The servo is a Hobbico HS-12 micro servo. The chassis is designed to use a micro servo.

The rear pod and shock is also from RatZas. The shock is an Associated VCS.

I'm amazed none of you noticed the "Big Block". ;)

[24601]

How does the Flash hold up to the Big block? I have heard of guys using it, but I have also heard it won't.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

here is my new pics with the half painted trueno body
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid69/p806c67c7f185987d12418ed001c95205/fbb760e5.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid69/pddccccdc5194c984ea7f259abda351c4/fbb760e9.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid69/pf19840f1eb08aa399749f2f47c5cb3e3/fbb760eb.jpg

[Macdaddy4738]

looking good!!

what color is the front gonna be??

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

i think i am going to paint it black...

projecttwin= i noticed your humongous bigblock after i read that thread in one18th forum...
;)

:D :D

[yeeehaw]

this car is great and pretty darn quick.
I bought the kit and a set of 1500 mah nimh cells.
wich really woke it up with the stock set up. I noticed the front cv's aren't even strong enough for the nimhs and the stock motor. one drift into the fridge broke the right cv hub (73404??)
I love this car and is really quick and darn near un controllable on tile floors. I can't wait to get it to a track here in good ole Tulsa.

GRIZZbob- where is a good track for the micro.

I am currentally using a
Jr high speed steering servo
Duratrax streak esc.
hitec recever
corvette body

I am getting
ratzas racer chassis
big block motor
2/3a cells
front allumenium universals
trc foam tires.
hobbico micro servo
and what ever catches my eye.

I am on a budget for this car since I am back into airplanes.

good luck and I plan on posting pixs soon

Matt

[Grizzbob]

Well, there are a couple of them in Texas, & I'm sure elsewhere(including our local track, RC's Raceway near 41st & Sheridan in Tulsa), but it'll vary from region to region. If you want to see a decent track listing specifically for micros, you might try www.one18th.com They have a track directory & a nice forum(which I also post on) that has a lot of good advice & goodies, just for us....:cool:
P.S. At RCR, we are willing to run the class, but only if enough people show up with a micro, if it's only like 2 guys, that's not really enough. But there are a good number of us in the area that have a micro, just a lot of them are doing other things for the summer(like going to the lake, or to full scale tracks, or to Adams Creek for its dirt oval, etc.).

[REDRUM]

WOW...i didnt know the big block was that..well...big..

i found some 7.2 packs on ratzas fior 10 bucks...1000mAh...i was wondering what the run time is with a 45t motor and those...and i was wondering how long it would take to charge them with the superbrain...i wanna charge em relatively quick...

heres the link... http://www.ratzas.net/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=346

oh...one more thing...what would the run time be with that pack and the big block...thanks in advance

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

um twin isn't running a bigblock
it's a 370 with a sticker

[REDRUM]

im using an rtr micro rs4 and today it started to mess up...i started to run ir and holding the throttle all the way back it would decrease speed and eventually(after 20 seconds) stop..i thought it was a loose pinion gear and its not..i took out my motor it see if ti had dies on em and i hooked it up to the batts and it runs fine...it only messes up when its hooked to the esc..i noticed the esc doesnt beep...its the motor...i held it to my ear to see if asnything was beeping and the esc did not..just the motor...i have no cluw what is wrong...i do believe it is the esc and not the motor though

PLEASE HELP!!!

[ProjectTwin]

I'm running a Speed 300

Current set-up (http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/7-11-03/)

[yeeehaw]

a speed 300 will not even fit in the motor pod. is the ratzas chassis conversion the reason yours will fit?
please answer.

Matt

[InspGadgt]

A speed 300 fits fine in the motor pod on a 150mm car but you do need a new motor mount because the spacing on the mounting holes is different. On a 140mm car I've seen them used on a stock chassis but the guy had to dremel a little off of the rear shock/body mount on the mounting posts to give the suspension some clearance to flex.

[BigBadTahoe]

right now I am running a 45turn hpi mod motor in my corvette micro, whatever mm it is? Would it be easy to just buy the 300 motor and chassie plate for my car or wouldn't I see a very big difference from the this mod motor? I am still not sold on getting one yet. Will it screw anything up with its power?

[yeeehaw]

you have a 150mm like me
I painted mine ford motor Blue (engine paint)
it turned out good.

thanks for the reply.
Inspector Gadget??

Matt

[InspGadgt]

Yes you can get a speed 300 and ARM or GH motor plate and it'll bolt right in. The only modification necessary is a little dremeling of the rear axle tube where the upper screw goes so the motor can lean in closer to the spur gear. That will get you proper gear mesh with a 13T pinion. I was just barely keeping up with speed 300's running my HPI mod. Mainly because we were running on a track for 1/10th F1's so it was pretty much WOT. They were definately quicker in acceleration and in top speed but I was the better driver most times. And the speed 300/ARM motor plate combination is pretty cheep. You can get them for about $25 total.

[yeeehaw]

I am anxous to see if it will hang with the big blocks. I had some allumenium left over from an upper deck I built. So I built a replica to the stock plate but with an extra couple holes and a little taller. Amazing what you can do with a dremel and a drill press.

I still have to get off my but and go get the fron cvd's. the 32.00 price tag has got me a little set back in the racing aspect.

thanks alot and I will post pix when I get the right front back on and get it test drove.

Matt

[InspGadgt]

Just heard back from Motek today. The graphite cutters are on vacation right now so the EXO2 is delayed until August now. FYI for those of you who want one as much as I do.

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by yeeehaw
I am anxous to see if it will hang with the big blocks. I had some allumenium left over from an upper deck I built. So I built a replica to the stock plate but with an extra couple holes and a little taller. Amazing what you can do with a dremel and a drill press.

Matt

The big block and the Speed 300 are the same motor.

They're both Mabuchi motors, but the Orion Big Block has a label, leads, and the capacitors are on a PCB instead of loose, individual caps.

I have both the Big Block (first micro motor I bought) and the speed 300 (given to me).

I haven't opened up the Big Block yet (did open the 300 up and work on it ;)) but on physical inspection they're the exact same motor.

The Big Block is in the middle...the motor on the left with the Big Block label is actually a 380.

[yeeehaw]

well I guess I will be pretty quick then.
Matt

[ProjectTwin]

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/lambo/DSC00224.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/lambo/DSC00225.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/micro/lambo/DSC00221.JPG

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

nice body!

[dn36bxny]

Greetings all RC People. I'm a new owner of a Micro, and I'm new to electric rc cars.
I know the basics of electric cars, like how to charge and discharge, and what to do and what not to do. I think. ; - )
My question is, I know we should avoid using alkaline batteries because they wait probably twice as much as the 2/3a cells. And also, good alkaline can be costly. I mean, the cheapest I can get for a pack of 20 Duracell Ultra is like 20 bucks.
I was wondering, does anyone have any clever ideas to run the Micro for someone like me who doesn't have the luxury of a car (a real car) to charge the Micro? I can't think of using anything else but alkaline to power my Micro when I'm outside away from my house. And how many alkaline AA cells can I put in the Micro even with the Ratzas' chassis. Not much, I think... 4, the most 6 cells? Please help. Thanks so much!!

[minijosh]

I built my Micro rs4 for a shelf queen and it is time to kick her off her shelf. What servo should I get? I have a regular one in her but the stock battery pack will not fit. She is huge!!! Any help on which servo to get???

[dn36bxny]

About servo, check the Micro Magazine from rccarandaction.com. I don't remember the manufacturer and model numbers for them. It's a good magazine to get anyway. It's all about micros and minis. Hope that helps!

[minijosh]

I have that mag but it doesn't compare servos. Just other cars. I just wanted to see what real drivers are using. I am looking for a micro servo to make it lighter. The lighter the car the faster, agility, and stopping speed are what I am looking for.

[dn36bxny]

That's great if you have the mag. You know what, read it again. There is an article somewhere in that mag. after all the featured Micros. And it does talk about servos. I really don't remember what servo it was talking about, but it did recommend a servo there.
It's true there's no servo comparison in the mag. However, it can't be so bad if these people use those servos in those featured Micros. Right?

[minijosh]

I'd rather take advice from a fellow racer than a magizine. Yes they do have info I can use but they are testing so many things that they will not be able to concentrate on racing. Plus they get paid to say good things about bad items like they looked at a buggy that I have and they gave it 2 thumbs up and I think it sucks. Hmmmm, money under the table is what it sounds like to me. Keep the kit if you really enjoy it and just say something nice about it. I will look again though.

[InspGadgt]

Just about any servo will do fine in a micro but with the really small servos you want to be careful not to get plastic geared ones. Those are usually made for RC gliders which don't have nearly the stress cars do. By far probably the most popular servo for the micro is the Hitech HS-81MG...make sure it's the MG version as that's metal geared. I've had problems with other Hitech servos in the past so generally don't reccomend them but in the micro this has been a perfect fit and has worked very well so far.

[minijosh]

do you run the MG inspector? hehe. that does make sense about the metal gears. thanks both of you for your input.

[InspGadgt]

Yes I do...the Motek EXO chassis was designed specifically for that servo so when I switched to that chassis I decided I might as well try the servo.

[InspGadgt]

New pics of the Motek EXO2 Team Edition chassis are up now at the Motek site...looks very nice!

www.motekracing.com

[Grizzbob]

InspG's right, I use an HS-81MG in mine too, hasn't let me down yet.....:cool:

[24601]

Has anyone tried an Airtronics servo, like the 94091z? Just wondering about other options.

[metalry101]

ProjectTwin~
Nice Micro man, that's very sexy. I'm especially impressed w/ that body. That's very nice lookin. What color blue is that? I could use that color on my next body.

24601~
Is that 94091z a mini servo? I don't have any personal experience, but from what I've heard Airtronics makes a pretty good servo. Personally, I run the HS-81 like everyone else, but I'd think the Airtronics would work just as well.

[24601]

That Airtronics servo is about the same (maybe a smidge smaller) than the 81mg.

On another topic. What is everyone's opinion on front one way/solid (or tight ball) rear VS front and rear ball diffs.

Remember, I will be racing on a pretty big track against 12th scales, so any recommendations for brands that have worked well/not worked well would be appreciated as well. I am looking at a 300/6 cell setup.

[InspGadgt]

Well with a 1-way 4wd cars turn in better but I never liked how loose the felt especially under braking. So I went with front and rear ball diffs for my micro...these things are squirelly enough as it is stock...no need to make it worse by putting in a 1-way.

[24601]

That is what I was worried about, but one guy I was talking to about this was talking about being able to carry more speed through the corners with a one way.

[Macdaddy4738]

i just bought a Ball Diff for my Micro...i notice a difference...but its hard to explain with what...

i also dropped a new 45-t motor in it.....its a bigggggg difference!!

[24601]

What about Big block motors. Any favorites (orion, peak, "tuned").

I was looking at the ones on this page (http://www.blindbatts.com/hopups.htm) .

There batts look a little cheesy (electrical tape!), but the motors look inviting.

[REDRUM]

thats a really good deal on the motor and the plate...only thing is...have you ordered from there before?...i need a site i can trust..cause..u never know..plus...i can go to a more secure site with the speed 300 in stock and get it for 25...shipping and everything..

[24601]

Never ordered there, but I see them mentioned a lot. I was looking at the Rabid Chihuahua one.

[REDRUM]

i posted over on the electric forum asking about the speed 300...heres the link

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1103916#post1103916

[yeeehaw]

DON'T DO towerhobbies they will cheat you out.
They either owe me my battery and speed controll or 70 bucks.
If you don't listen I hope you the best of luck.
I even called them. They said there was no record of my order but my dad lost the money off his card.

Nice car Project Twin. I love the blue, it has a nice milky tone to it.

I have a jr servo so I really don't know about airtronics.

Good luck
Matt

[InspGadgt]

If your dad paid with a credit car then 1) his statement will have the payment recorded with Tower as the recipient. That should be proof enough for Tower. And 2) he can dispute the charge with his company and get the money back.

[minijosh]

I have never had a problem with tower and i have been using them for many years. must have been a fluke thing. i even live overseas. have your dad call the credit card company and get a new statement about the time you sent the order and call them back!

[yeeehaw]

un fortunately he did not figure out wich card he used. Plus he is in Germany right at the moment so he is with out his cards and he is too Lazy to find it. so he is the one with out the 70 bucks.

that is the only problem I have found. they are the cheapest I have found with cars. But I rather go get the part my self.
I guess the little things set me off. erggghhhh

but what ever, if you haven't had problems, more power to ya.
You do what ya need to, to get the job done:D

I am buying a plane so my micro will have a friend.
(alpha trainer from hangar nine)
good luck
Matt

[metalry101]

Hey guys, I'm finally back in town for awhile. I've ordered from Blind before and they make a quality product. Their 9.6 volt packs are smaller than everyone else's 7.2 volt packs. Also, I've ordered a lot of things from Tower, and I've always gotten great service from them. They even win that Online Retailer Award every year. If that's not enough proof that they're quality, I don't know what is. I'm not saying you're lying, even the best companies have mistakes, but I'm sure if you get the billing statement, they'll give you a refund or something. As for other places, Hobby People and www.microrcshop.com are both EXCELLENT as well. I've used them b4 and they have great prices and extremely fast shipping.

As for the motors, the Speed 300, the Team Orion Big Block and the Peak Racing Chubby are all the exact same motor, each w/ a different sticker.

[yeeehaw]

are the gh front universals allumenium if so can the with stand a couple of smacks from obsticles and the power of a speed 300.
I bet Tower just made a mistake and I guess that it did not happen at the best time, but whatever. Crap happens.
I over reacted to the problem and got really ticked.
I apologise to my reaction.

I can't wait to get my micro in racing action.

Matt

[REDRUM]

i have a speed 300 and for some reason when it gets about 30 yards away from me the signal seems to fade, when it gets that far awa from me it starts doing slow circles, when i had my stock motor in it it didnt do that...im guessing its the capacitor board, if it is what do i do?...use the one from the stock motor?...i have it on right and everything..it started that the first time i ran with my speed 300..thanks in advance

[BLiND]

Originally posted by 24601
What about Big block motors. Any favorites (orion, peak, "tuned").

I was looking at the ones on this page (http://www.blindbatts.com/hopups.htm) .

There batts look a little cheesy (electrical tape!), but the motors look inviting.

Hey,
I'm sorry but I had to reply to this, our battery packs are not insulated with electrical tape, they are coated with liquid plastic.

Perhaps the pictures are not very good, but the packs are also sold at http://shop.one18th.com


I suggest you guys come hang out with us in the www.one18th.com forum, tons of quality info in there, great tech articles too!

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I started it

right now,
I am looking for sponsors who will sell me some plastics and aluminum for discounted price or free ( :D lol Free is always good)

I finished cutting out front half today. I will put updates in the thread in "General Forums"

Let me know what you think!~

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/pc7cf0bca26db7e58094ecb5211ff1f77/fb8a0a0f.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p4b25bf744d344e89e861f432894aeff5/fb8a0a0c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/pd3f65560829966927c44168dc68d8e07/fb8a0a09.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p0dc1af7cc7013a1b629759b2d28252c8/fb8a0a04.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p0db2962966e4dd959d7e90a63fbdc9f6/fb8a0a08.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p0e04dbb8ef16105f0e8c7354e9cc15fb/fb8a0a00.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p9a67a364b230c64ba476e1198d7614b7/fb8a09ff.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p003a7e878a0f266ff713725f6e5cbd95/fb8a09f8.jpg

[24601]

Originally posted by BLiND
Hey,
I'm sorry but I had to reply to this, our battery packs are not insulated with electrical tape, they are coated with liquid plastic.


Sorry, I guess I was wrong. You can difinitely see the line of tape wrapped around the packs in several pics, must be under the liquid plastic. I have heard good things about them, but the pictures make them not look as good of quality, but I assume they function fine. http://www.blindbatts.com/images/products/5cell-t.jpg for example

[REDRUM]

would these cells work ok for making my own?

http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?0=215&1=295&3=226

theyre nicds..i figured they might be ok..i dont really wanna get the nimh's because u cant get a cheap fast charger for em..anyways tell me if they are ok to use..theyre 1/2a size..will that affect it much?

also here are some 2/3aa size ones...im not usre what the difference is between the two is if someone could please tell me

http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?0=215&1=216&3=177

[InspGadgt]

NMT,

Having a hard time understanding the way that layout is supposed to work. It looks like the flex point for the rear suspension was moved to the center of the chassis?...where's the batteries going to go?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

there will be no flex point in the chassis
the batteries are going in the middle left
lol someone post something in the general discussion forum so it goes to the top... :p

[REDRUM]

would this pinion gear work with a speed 300?...because i need to find a metal pinion gear that will fit it, i doubt it but just in case here it is

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX13

[InspGadgt]

Get one made specifically for the Micro...HPI, Orion, Peak, they all make them I think...and get a 13T

[24601]

OK, here is an interesting Big Block issue.

I found instructions on modifying a Speed 300, I guess similiar to the Rabid Chihuahua one. I have a used Speed 300, but the article suggests starting with new. So off to the hobby shop I go.

First one, no motors, but they knew what I was after. Second one, the car dept has no employee, but the airplane guy comes over to help. I ask for a Speed 300, he says, which one. I say just a speed 300, lots of guys run them, I have one at the house. He replies "someone isn't telling you all you need to know." He says there isn't just a "Speed 300", and pulls out what he calls a 370. It is 280 size (he said as much), but said it had a 300 core or something like that. He swore it was super fast, said guys were using it for drag racing micros. I had him go get an Orion big block for comparison and we compared them. He started telling me the Big block was "it", then I again said it was just a 300 with a sticker, but he kept insisting the 370 was what I wanted. Now, for anyone who knows anything about this, what is this all about.

BTW--I looked all through the case just to see if I could find it myself. I found a Speed 400, and Speed 280, no 300.

[RC Demon]

does anyone have a better way of mounting the servo, reciever pack, and esc. instead of using heavy duty double sided tape. the servo and receiver always comes loose.

[InspGadgt]

For my cars that have dedicated electronics I use Shoe Goo to hold my electronics on. Trick is to make sure you have thick enough layer that you can get an exacto knife between the chassis and the component. That way when you need to remove it you cut a slit in the Shoe Goo and it should peal away.

[RC Demon]

cool, i have dedicated electronics too, i'll give that try. also what brand makes a better chassis and upperdeck hop ups. (i.e. megatech, powerline, team orion)

thanks dude

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by 24601
OK, here is an interesting Big Block issue.

I found instructions on modifying a Speed 300, I guess similiar to the Rabid Chihuahua one. I have a used Speed 300, but the article suggests starting with new. So off to the hobby shop I go.



I know exactly what motor that you are talkng about, take a look at this link and this picture

http://www.microrcstore.com/itemDesc.php?itemNumber=MOT001

http://www.microrcstore.com/images/items/motor_grpSpeed300Set.jpg

If you see "Graupner Speed 300" sticker on the motor body, that is the one...

Who care about they actually called 370 or not, I am not sure it is actually called 370, but again, who cares.

The Team ORION Big Block is claimed to be the exact thing except a prettier sticker and came with a motor protection case, quick capacitor board and special motor mount.........overall, that is not a bad deal comepare to the Graupner Speed 300.

Back to your topic, can you share that articles about modifying a speed 300 motor...? 30% nitro fuel instead...?

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by RC Demon
cool, i have dedicated electronics too, i'll give that try. also what brand makes a better chassis and upperdeck hop ups. (i.e. megatech, powerline, team orion)

thanks dude

In my opinion the best chassis solution for the car is the soon to be released Motek EXO2. And before that the EXO. I have the EXO and it is an awesome handling chassis and doesn't use an upper deck. The new EXO2 is going to take it even beyond. Another great option is the Rataz RXU...I think that's what it's called. The RXU uses a dual pivot ball T-plate style rear suspension commonly found on most pan cars. The EXO2 is using a monoball/trailing link type suspension found originally on the EV10 and later on the Carpet Knife and Rev3 pan cars. The RXU uses a bit easier battery configuration...saddle pack configuration. But that puts the battery weight very wide on the shassis which will effect handling. The EXO/EXO2 runs a very unique battery configuration that allows for most of the weight to be kept in the center of the chassis.

[RC Demon]

are there any sites i can check these out at?

[metalry101]

Another Chassis you might consider is the ARM (American Racing Models, I think). I run it, and I don't race, so I can't vouch for it's competetiveness there, but it is dirt cheap. I got mine for 13 bux from HERE (http://www.blindbatts.com). I'm sure you could find the stuff other places. Try
Micro RC Shop (http://www.microrcshop.com)
Your Micro (http://www.yourmicro.com)
One 18th (http://www.one18th.com)
Micro RC Store (http://www.microrcstore.com)

Hope this helps a bit.

[RC Demon]

cool, thanks guys.

how fast is everyone's micro anyway. I run a big block with a quantum micro esc on one and a micro chubby with a novak fusion. doesn't seem that fast though. are there better esc's and motors for the micro

[InspGadgt]

You can find the EXO2 at www.motekracing.com I'm not sure of Rataz's website off hand.

The ARM chassis is a decent upgrade as it allows you to put your electronics down low instead of on the upper deck. But id sufferes from the same poor rear suspension design as the stock chassis.

Demon if your Micro isn't fast enough with the Big Block motor then something's definately wrong. With that motor the cars are pretty much on the verge of uncontrollable. About as fast as a stock 1/10th scale TC which is incredibly fast for such a small car.

[24601]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

Who care about they actually called 370 or not, I am not sure it is actually called 370, but again, who cares.


The motor he was calling the 370 was not a Speed 300 at all, it was smaller. If you re-read my original post you will see what I am talking about.

I have to look again for that article. It was on one of the forums like 1/18th etc.

[yeeehaw]

fast enough I need a new chassis to help control it.
I am running a speed 300
duratrax spike esc
jr racing servo.
I drifted into the fridge and broke the cv joint (7303)?
well see ya later
Matt

[RC Demon]

well i'm just going on the assumption that there's always faster, my big block is faster than my micro chubby, but i figure it's a lot faster because of the esc i have on it. but cool i'll check out the website and once i get my micro back on it's wheels i'll post it up :)

[nitrodude_1]

I have a question I am new right and I bought the kit I want the fastest big block motor I can get for the micro rs4 the best.

[Rdub202]

i am considering getting a micro. i have a few questions..
as far as the ratzas chassis go which one of those kits are the best? i want to get a micro and hop the crap out of it what motor should i get and which batts? is there anything general i should know about them? or ne thing else i should consider getting or not getting.

-dub-

[nitrodude_1]

one thing I did was got the motek racing chassis only 190.00 canadian 110 american

[InspGadgt]

If you paid $110 USD for the original EXO you way over paid. That sells for about $40. The EXO2 is estimated to be $110 when it releases but it still hasn't been released yet. Due out this month though.

[nitrodude_1]

oh sorry insp I worded it wrong I meant to say I want to get the evo2 I would probally pay around 190 canadian for estimated price american is 110 estimated. I want that chassis converstion kit but don't know weather it is worth it it looks awsome and is suspose to come out this money but can it handel as good as it looks. also insp can u tell me of a good big block motor to get I am out of ideas on team orion to. :D

[InspGadgt]

I got the Speed 300 and ARM motor plate. It's the exact same motor as the big block for a little more then half the price.

http://www.microrcstore.com/itemDesc.php?itemNumber=MOT002&cat=10

[Rdub202]

im looking for the best chassis for racing on carpet-plz help

[Rookie Solara]

The fastest guy from our track use the ARM $12 chassis.....Speed 300 motor and cheap 1100 mah batteries from EBAY along with the SPY ESC....

And recently, another fast guy is using the same exact chassis except he use AA (heavier) batteries and bigger servo (like pan car size).......and no one can touch them either. He claimed the reason he can go fast is because his car is heavier then normal, and he doesn't need to worry about the car "TRACKION ROLL"..........

You can spend THOUSAND on the micro, but doesn't make you go any faster.....

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

cool
i got my XXL in
here is a comparison between the XXL and the Futaba HRS receiver

http://www.******.net/media/110_1090.jpg
http://www.******.net/media/110_1089.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

My movie!!!
:D
http://www.******.net/media/micro_rs4_video.wmv

[nitrodude_1]

cool it dose work

[nitrodude_1]

nmt e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com and tell me what parts and tires you have on your micro I am very interested. I am new so I need all the help I can get

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my micro is stock
only thing i have different on it is the motor, which i replaced with a 130 froma tamiya mini 4wd and 6 cell AA batts, XXL and a MC230CR. There is also the x shock set up but the purple lower bulk is not on due to the screw i don't have

[24601]

What do you guys feel about all the different diffs out there?

I went ahead and bought an HPI ball diff yesterday. I had heard it was better becuase it used the old shaft, something about aftermarket shafts bending. SO far I am happy with it except that I would have liked a spring instead of an o-ring to hold tension.

Then I was looking at one-ways. HPI and Powerline were cheapest, but did not include the case (both were $28). The Dynamite included the case and pulley, but was $47. I ended up not getting one because I just couldn't decide what was best. I had considered the HPI then getting the HPI diff case, but I am still not sure.

No one around has the front ball diff, though I would like to try that as well.

[microrcdude]

I'm going to buy the GH front oneway. you can find them at www.ratzas.net

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my new movie
http://www.******.net/media/MicroRS4-2.wmv

[nitrodude_1]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
my new movie
http://www.******.net/media/MicroRS4-2.wmv

one way is a large swooping diff they are for long trackw sith large corners ball diff is for tight quick turns

[24601]

Here are some pics of what I have so far. LMK. The batts will be going down each side on trays.

http://www.******.net/member/Prisoner24601

I have a graupner 370 going in as well. Check out my home made vcs mount. Took forever. Free prize to whoever figure out what the bottom mount was.

[metalry101]

The GH one-way is 25 bones from www.microrcshop.com and it works well. Also, it comes w/ a housing so you don't need to worry about that. They make a ball diff as well, but my friend has it and doesn't like it very much. I think the Micro's diff is just too small to make a very good one. Maybe not though. Anyways, I'm selling my Micro cuz I gotta have some money for college and my E-Maxx so if anyone wants it, shoot me an e-mail or PM. I've got over 400 dollars into it, and I haven't used it much so it's still in great shape. I'm only asking 275 shipped. All you'd need is a radio and charger. It comes w/ eveything else. Good luck breaking this car, all the fragile parts have been replaced w/ quality pieces.

-ARM chassis
-Speed 400 motor
-Mtronics Eco 20 ESC (9.6 volts, 20 turn motor, waterproof, very sexy)
-Hitec HS-81MG Servo
-HPI Dual Link Tie Rod Set
-GH Alloy Body Posts
-GH Front One-Way
-GH Alum. Front Pulley
-Alum. Steering Knuckles
-Blind Batts 8-Cell Saddle Pack
-TRC Soft (wide)and Medium (wide) Foams
-HPI Soft Rubber mounted (all 4 wide)
-HPI Steel Universals
-HPI 13 Tooth steel pinion
-NateDogg Front Bumper (insanely huge, great protection)
-Deans Connectors for battery, motor hardwired
-Radio Shack Cooling Fan (mounted above motor, blows through rear deck)
-Corvette Body (Very nice paint, barely ran
-Skyline Body (Very nice paint, never ran)
-Stratus Body (New paint, never ran
-Viper Body (Old, but still in one piece)

It's setup at the 150 mm wheelbase right now, but I'll include all the parts to convert it to 140 mm. It also has a ton of extra parts and hardware, including a Team Orion Flash ESC. I don't have pics at the moment, but I might be able to get some.

[InspGadgt]

The ball diffs can work quite well and given how loose these cars are allready a benifit to the car. But they take a lot of work to get them smooth. The diff rings that come with them are pitted and far from smooth. Sanding and polishing them out will give you a very nice diff.

[metalry101]

I'll have to mention that to my friend. He also runs the HPI rear ball diff, and it's way way smooth. Of course he probably has 50 bux in it. He's got the Acer Racing Ceramic Diff Balls in it, and it spins on a Losi thrust bearing.

[Jason C]

I believe InspGadgt is referring to the GH front ball diff. I had the same problems with mine (the 1st generation GH front ball diff), but once I took it apart and polished the thrust plates, it worked very nicely.

[nitrodude_1]

so what is the best front diff to get I want after market I have a large track with large swooping cornners but also have very tight small corners in the track which one should I get

[Jason C]

Personally, I'd go with a ball diff in front just so you retain 4-wheel braking. If you can afford it, get both diffs so you can try them out at your track and see which you like best.

[nitrodude_1]

what is the best front diff to get for a small tight turn track

[yeeehaw]

i plan on running a one way. That is what I would use on it.

[InspGadgt]

I like a ball diff in the front. Problem is only 1 company makes one and it leaves a lot to be desired. However with some care, patience, and a lot of sanding and polishing, it can be a very good diff.

[nitrodude_1]

gpm 1 way I bought

[Jason C]

InspGadgt,

Do you still run the 1st generation GH front ball diff or have you bought their adjustable one?


nitrodude_1,

Typically, dual diffs (front and rear) are used on tight, twisty tracks because you are able to brake later and harder before entering a turn. Having a front one-way allows the front wheels to "free-wheel" once off power which means that you no longer have 4-wheel braking - just rear-wheel brakes. Hard braking with just the rear wheels can easily result in spinning out.

If you are able to tune your car so that you get excellent traction and drive carefully, the front one-way will out-perform the front ball diff in my opinion. But, my driving style is "brake late and brake hard" so I prefer a front diff over the one-way. Go with whatever suits your driving style best.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

here is a movie of my micro drifting on my track...
http://www.******.net/img/9025
The track was kinda tight, but it's fun when you get used to it,
let me know what you guys think!

[nitrodude_1]

what are u trying to do. destroy your micro hehe. ya it is small but looks good. let me know if u wana know how to build a cheap track. looks good and works great to. 3 lap was the best till u hit the table. what ype of videos are you using to you sure havealot of them hehe

[InspGadgt]

Yes I'm still using the 1st gen GH ball diff. I will get the adjustable one when I build up my EXO2 when the chassis is released.

FYI - The EXO2 took TQ and win at the Hitec parking lot challenge by 3 laps!

[civicds]

I just recently bought a micro rs4 rtr and it glitches like crazy. Ever since I bought it glitches. I did every thing moved the reciver away from the esc, tried fresh batts in the radio and car, tried different radios, etc... and I still can't figure out why it glitches. It seems to glitch more in forward than reverse but still glitches in both. Can anyone help me to solve this problem?

[24601]

What stuff are you running, radio, esc, servo, motor, batts. IT might help to know these things. Are there capacitors on the motor?

[24601]

Lets see if the pics of how my race micro is coming along will work.

http://www.******.net/media/DSC01150---rcp1.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/DSC01151.jpg

[gubby]

wow 24601, thats a nice body:cool:

hey everyone, my micro's receiver got messed up so i'm trading radio systems from a different car(an old kyosho, but it has new generation electronics in it) and since i wont need to buy a new system, i can buy a new motor. i have the HPI modified(the oen thats 30% faster than stock) so i'm just looking for the fastest one(besides the big block types). which motors are good choices?

and i only want one i can order from towerhobbies, horizon, or a Team Orion(my LHS stocks orion)

thanks:)

[nitrodude_1]

Originally posted by 24601
Lets see if the pics of how my race micro is coming along will work.

http://www.******.net/media/DSC01150---rcp1.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/DSC01151.jpg

who makes the chassis

[yeeehaw]

nice car,

I use a speed300 size airplane motor from mabuchi. I baught it from gws at my local dealer. it is a big block type, but it is cheaper than 30 dollars. I baught the hole plane for 30 dollars.

matt

[24601]

That chassis I got off Ebay. It isn't that special except that it is blue :). Eventually I am planning on a Penguin or Motec, when the cash comes in.

[Mr. P]

Net Zone is opening a new track for Micro RS4 and Mini Z. This is an indoor track, it is 40 feet long, 18 feet wide. Surface is Ozite carpet, facility is air conditioned, power outlets and refreshments. The track address is 1505 S. Riverside Ave, Rialto, CA 92376, Tel 909/877-2648. Opening date is August 26, 2003.
Thanks

[civicds]

Its the rtr micro so it has a hpi radio, receiver, servo, micro pro esc, and stock motor. and I'm running AA's in the car cause I didn't pick up my micro pack yet.

[Got Speed]

Hey, it's been a long time since I posted on here. My email notification was messed up then I never checked back. :rolleyes: Anyway,

I recently got all the parts to make a 20ft. X 30ft. micro track with 5ft. lanes. It looks pretty nice and is fun to run on but my batterys and motor are burning hot. I am using the 6 2/3a cells on my Speed 300 mounted on the motek chassis. When the battery was dead I temp checked it. The motor was 180 and the batterys were 170!! :eek: I know this isn't good but does anyone else have this problem? What can I do about it. I've cut air holes in my body but I havn't tried it like that yet. Is it due to the stock servo blocking all the air flow or what?

Thanks

[Jason C]

Originally posted by civicds
Its the rtr micro so it has a hpi radio, receiver, servo, micro pro esc, and stock motor. and I'm running AA's in the car cause I didn't pick up my micro pack yet.

How is the car glitching? Are the front wheels twitching about or is the car jerking when you try to apply throttle? I didn't get the RTR Micro but I did have some glitching problems when I first built my Micro. One thing you can try is to stick the antenna up as high as you can. This may require you to buy a longer antenna tube, but it can help alleviate the problem. The RTR Micros come with an AM radio system. If you can do so, it would probably help to switch to an FM radio system since they are less prone to glitching.

Also, check to see if the capacitors on the stock motor are damaged. Motors for the Micro are relatively cheap and are often upgraded early on. Try using a different motor.

[civicds]

I already tried putting the antenna up as high as it goes and still glitching also I put my lynx 3D in the car and still it was glitching. the car studers when I apply gas and the front wheels turn to the left. when I set the car down and try to drive it it will go and turn on its own then stop then go like full speed all on its own. I really would like to solve this problem I like the car but I don't want this to continue.

[gubby]

Originally posted by civicds
I already tried putting the antenna up as high as it goes and still glitching also I put my lynx 3D in the car and still it was glitching. the car studers when I apply gas and the front wheels turn to the left. when I set the car down and try to drive it it will go and turn on its own then stop then go like full speed all on its own. I really would like to solve this problem I like the car but I don't want this to continue.


same thing happened to me. i plugged all of my stuff into a novak receiver(xxl) and it seemed fixed. i'm gonna try and mount a different receiver today and see if the problem is fixed.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

24601,
you've got mail...
:)

[gubby]

changing the receiver didnt work, but when i tried the novak receiver, it was in my b4, so i was holding the micro next to the b4. maybe ts motor or servo noise being transmitted to the receiver which causes the glitching?:confused:

[Jason C]

Originally posted by civicds
I already tried putting the antenna up as high as it goes and still glitching also I put my lynx 3D in the car and still it was glitching. the car studers when I apply gas and the front wheels turn to the left. when I set the car down and try to drive it it will go and turn on its own then stop then go like full speed all on its own. I really would like to solve this problem I like the car but I don't want this to continue.

Hmm... Even a Lynx 3D still glitches? Is the glitching consistently the same no matter what you do? Have you tried installing a new motor? Often times, a faulty motor can be the source of a lot of interference.

[InspGadgt]

It's possible your ESC's BEC isn't putting out enough voltage to power the reciever properly. Do you have another ESC you can try? Or try the reciever in another car?

[24601]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
24601,
you've got mail...
:)

What was the mail, I am not sure which is yours. What email did it come from?

[civicds]

I tried the radio from my micro in another car and it worked fine. so its either the esc or motor. and the glithing is consistant.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by 24601
What was the mail, I am not sure which is yours. What email did it come from?
I sent it through Radio Control Zone so it should look like it you got it from RCCA...
it's basically about your XXXKE,
Thanks

[Jason C]

Originally posted by civicds
I tried the radio from my micro in another car and it worked fine. so its either the esc or motor. and the glithing is consistant.

If you decide to get a new ESC, I suggest the Novak SPY or the Quantum Micro. Both are very small and (in my opinion) are superior to the HPI ESC. As for the motor, there are many of them out there for the Micro. I use the Orion Elite Mod which I bought over a year ago and it still runs strong.

[civicds]

well at my lhs there is a micro class and all of them run the spy esc's and the elite mods so thats prolly what I'll get.

[asimo]

Hello...

I just recently purchased the Micro RS4 with the following...

LRP Competition 2 ESC
JR XR2 FM Transmitter.

I have the following issue...

I can't brake! I'm using the stock motor with the default capacitors that came with the motor. Do i have to use the LRP capcitors to get it to brake?

I have a feeling that it's either that or the settings on the transmitter.

Anyone know?

Thanks a lot! :)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Hey, it's been a long time since I posted on here. My email notification was messed up then I never checked back. :rolleyes: Anyway,

I recently got all the parts to make a 20ft. X 30ft. micro track with 5ft. lanes. It looks pretty nice and is fun to run on but my batterys and motor are burning hot. I am using the 6 2/3a cells on my Speed 300 mounted on the motek chassis. When the battery was dead I temp checked it. The motor was 180 and the batterys were 170!! :eek: I know this isn't good b