HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v2.0

[Tstalion79]

Guys im using an MRC super brain at .5 amps and a 20 volt threshold and my batts are peaking at 6.24 volts. They also only run for about 30 seconds. What is going on do u guys think?

Thanks

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
TS...The easy way to get something off that has been shoe goo'd in is to cut the edge with an exacto knife...if the glue was thick enough it will peel right off from the cut.

As far as charging I wouldn't reccomend going above 1amp... 1/2amp prefered. These little cells are not made specifically for RC like the sub C's in 1/10th so they cannot handle quick charging and discharging nearly as good.

I've almost got my Epic rebuild done now...all I'm waiting for now is the aluminium posts for the rear deck. I'm getting antsy to run it with the new motor and see how it'll do.

What kind of cells are you refering to? The 2/3a, 1100 mah, 1.2V, NiMh cells? If so I though you could charge them fine at around an amp? Pro Match says that they charge their batts at 2 amps and discharge at 5 amps.

http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm

[Scafremon]

Originally posted by Got Speed
That is about the best price you will find. With the $30 you saved you could buy a 6 cell battery for $20.

It is an entry level setup but you are an entry level driver. For the micro it makes alot less difference than with other cars too.

Thanks for the info. I bought the kit, and am in the process of building it tonight, but have ran into a problem. The servo that came with the package has a smaller gear on it then any of the (6) servo arms that came with the HPI kit. The servo is a micro servo, part number 94051z, as seen on this page (http://www.airtronics.net/Servo_specs.htm)

Is this gear size "P" the problem? Is there a workaround, so I can get this built over the holidays? Is there another servo arm on the kit that I just don't see?

Thanks for your help.

[the turd]

i was wondering how you know if the batteries have been fully charged. i have an Integy inDi 16x3-Prov2.5 charger and it shows the voltage, capacity, and current. the capacity seems a lot lower than on my 1500 niCds...is this normal? i have about 65 seconds of capacity but it still runs for a while. and how long about does it take to charge the Team orion 7.2v packs at 1 amp? and also, 1.5 amps? thanks! I love this thing except my street is pretty bumpy
:( but it is still a kick *** car!

[the turd]

is there any way to adjust the ride height?

[Tstalion79]

No you cant adjust the ride height unfortunately. Make sure your body isnt catching the pavement when the suspension is fully depressed.

[the turd]

ok, thanks.:)

[ugman]

the turd: The way I check to see if it is fully charged is to use a voltage tester. You can get some cheaper ones at radio shack...

[jkerr0043]

Anybody have any idea about how many amps these cars actually draw when running a Big Block type motor and 6 cells? They to discharge the cells at only 2 amps but I've gotta think they draw more than that. A 1:10 scale running a stock motor draws 20 amps. Modified more than 30!

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Anybody have any idea about how many amps these cars actually draw when running a Big Block type motor and 6 cells? They to discharge the cells at only 2 amps but I've gotta think they draw more than that. A 1:10 scale running a stock motor draws 20 amps. Modified more than 30!

Promatch says they charge theirs at 2 amps and discharge at 5 amps. http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm

[the turd]

ugman, im charging a battery and the voltage is at 8.09(my charger can tell voltage). does this mean that the pack is done once it reaches 7.2v?

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Got Speed
What kind of cells are you refering to? The 2/3a, 1100 mah, 1.2V, NiMh cells? If so I though you could charge them fine at around an amp? Pro Match says that they charge their batts at 2 amps and discharge at 5 amps.

http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm

Yeah the 2/3rds cells. Even charging at 1 amp they get quite hot on the charger. This whole scene in racing is quite new yet and people are still discovering how to charge and discharge these cells. Also many matchers who sponsor drivers charge/discharge their cells for max performance even if it damages the cells quicker. Heck they just get another pack when they kill one. But the average self sponsored racer doesn't have the money to throw around like that. So to err on the side of caution is much safer.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
Guys im using an MRC super brain at .5 amps and a 20 volt threshold and my batts are peaking at 6.24 volts. They also only run for about 30 seconds. What is going on do u guys think?

Thanks

Sounds like your getting a false peak. Try repeaking them. They should be warm when they are done charging.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by the turd
i was wondering how you know if the batteries have been fully charged. i have an Integy inDi 16x3-Prov2.5 charger and it shows the voltage, capacity, and current. the capacity seems a lot lower than on my 1500 niCds...is this normal? i have about 65 seconds of capacity but it still runs for a while. and how long about does it take to charge the Team orion 7.2v packs at 1 amp? and also, 1.5 amps? thanks! I love this thing except my street is pretty bumpy
:( but it is still a kick *** car!

A volt meter is your most accurate measure but a quick check to see if it's warm or not is a good indicator. Batteries are generally warm to the touch when they are finished charging. How warm depends on how fast you charge them or if they are under or over charged.

[Got Speed]

Yea, I thought 2 amps sounded high but then again not too high because I know you arn't supposed to charge batteries any more than twice what they are rated. But that probably only means they won't explode at 2 amps lol :p .

I think 1 amp is about right for about an hour. Mine get too hot if I leave them on after an hour.

[R/Cbum4life]

Im looking at getting one these in a kit. I have all the stuff because normal sized rc gear can be used right (Speed controller, futaba s3003 servo)? How are they as far as speed goes I want to get one to race im my basement so it doesn't need to be superfast or anything. But anyone who could let me know a top speed of a stock one would be cool. Does it come with a motor? What do I need as far as batteries go? I have controller ones but the car can use AA or AAA right? How does a 4 nickel metals sound? Will that be sufficent or is a pack of sorts preffered? Do they make a pack that can be charged in 15-20 minutes that I can use with my existing charger? Are they durable? Easy to keep running? Do things need to be replaced like the belt? Answers are much appreciated. Thanks for the help!

[Grifter]

Normal size RC Gear can be used, it gets little cramed but it will work fine.

Stock, using AA batteries(yes you can use AA or AAA batteries) you're looking at a top speed of around 10-13 MPH.

Yes it does come with a Motor.

An aftermarket Battery pack would be preferred. It'll give you more Power and longer Run Times.

The Kit comes with an adapter that can be hooked up to the typical Tamiya Style Plugs.

As far as I've seen, they are very durable.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Yea, I thought 2 amps sounded high but then again not too high because I know you arn't supposed to charge batteries any more than twice what they are rated. But that probably only means they won't explode at 2 amps lol :p .

I think 1 amp is about right for about an hour. Mine get too hot if I leave them on after an hour.

That's a charging theory for sub C cells. Try charging a 2000Mah sub A cell at 4 amps and your likely to melt it...LOL

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
That's a charging theory for sub C cells. Try charging a 2000Mah sub A cell at 4 amps and your likely to melt it...LOL

Yea, lol. Does anyone really know or is it all theory?

[k_sw31]

You charge batteries according to the size of the cell ;)

AA's, around 1 amp
on the other hand, sub c's are charged at 4-6 amps :)

[trxstr1961]

put all fronts or all rears on their micro?? wonder if it would help in the traction dept.:confused:

[lookinco]

I am thinking of getting a RTR kit. I am completely new to this. I was wondering if the parts from the RTR kit such as radio, transmitter, esc, and servo any good ? Would I be able to upgrade the motor without upgrading them ? Is the radio good enough that I won't have any problem controling it when I modify it to go at a faster speed ?

At last which battery should I get ? Will the stock motor handle a 6 cell ? Which 6 cell and charger should I get ? If I want to upgrade it to go faster, what must I do ?

For a completely newbie, what parts that I must get when I buy my RS4. For example, tires, gears, bodies, etc etc ?

[trxstr1961]

Why doesnt anyone run there micro backwards so its FWD/RWS?? im going to try it, bet itd be alot of fun :D

[Scafremon]

Originally posted by lookinco
I am thinking of getting a RTR kit. I am completely new to this. I was wondering if the parts from the RTR kit such as radio, transmitter, esc, and servo any good ? Would I be able to upgrade the motor without upgrading them ? Is the radio good enough that I won't have any problem controling it when I modify it to go at a faster speed ?

At last which battery should I get ? Will the stock motor handle a 6 cell ? Which 6 cell and charger should I get ? If I want to upgrade it to go faster, what must I do ?

For a completely newbie, what parts that I must get when I buy my RS4. For example, tires, gears, bodies, etc etc ?

I'm also a newbie, and just finished assembling my micro kit. I went with the kit instead of the RTR, and saved $30. I think the electronics in the RTR kit are fine for a newbie such as us. We can replace them later as we see a need, and as we learn more about the options. As for what additional parts you will need, other than batteries, you will be all set. I do plan on buying some more tires today, just to have on hand, and have also bought a second body (350Z, which is what got me intererested in the hobby in the first place, having just recently received my 1:1 350Z).

I really recommend buying the kit, as building it is a good learning experience for what the final product is all about. I followed the instructions with the kit, and also used the HPI website's Assemby Walkthrough to assist me.

As for the speed, the stock set-up is not impressively fast, but I think it will serve my needs for the time-being, since I plan on using the car in driveway.

[Got Speed]

lookinco- The RTR electronics are fine for beginers and bashers but most likely you will want to upgrade later on so it is cheaper to go with a kit and buy the radio, esc, and servo seperatly. It's also nice to build the kit yourself.

As for batteries. I would get 6, 2/3 a, NiMh, cells and put them together yourself or go with a preasembled pack with 6 batteries. Check out the batteries at www.speedsterracing.com . They have good prices and those batterys.

There are no needed hop ups for it unless you get a stronger motor ect. For speed the best things to get are: Big Block or Speed 300 motor, 6 cell battery, steel pinion.

Better handling: Pan Chassis especially the penguin and epic, ball diffs, better tires.

The stock tires work well on most surfaces but the different compounds will work differently on different surfaces.

[Grifter]

I always prefer to build the kit rather than the RTR. Building really lets you know the Car much better and I also believe that it's half the fun.

It also helps that I have all the electrics.

[Grifter]

Is anyone having problems with their rear Diff.

In the March 2002 issue of RCCA they have an article on Inexpensive Micro mods. One is them putting a Bearing in the right rear wheel hub. I was wondering if anyone was having problems with the Bushing considering I've never read any things happening with it.

It seems like a good Mod, but I havent heard anyone talk about it.

Thanks!

[jkerr0043]

You should put a thrust bearing in the right rear hub. It makes the diff adjustments smoother and more precise. You just have to use lock tight on the lock nut if you're running a hot motor like a big block or else it will loosen it right up.

[Scafremon]

I've raced my new Micro RS4 for one day, and had to replace the pinion gear on the motor. Luckily, the kit came with 3. I'm thinking that it would be wise to have some extras of these on hand, maybe even the optional steel ones?

What other components do you find you are replacing the most frequently?

[ugman]

Scafremon: Are you sure you had the gear mesh set properly? I haven't broken a spur gear yet. If you are running stock micro you shouldn't be going through spurs...

[jkerr0043]

The stock ploastic pinions strip very easily. Don't bother even using them. Get the metal ones right away. Evern with a stock motor.

[Grifter]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
You should put a thrust bearing in the right rear hub. It makes the diff adjustments smoother and more precise. You just have to use lock tight on the lock nut if you're running a hot motor like a big block or else it will loosen it right up.

Where did you get the Thurst Bearings? It's the same size as the Stock Bushing, right?

Thanks!

[jkerr0043]

Get one for a losi diff. I got the MIP replacement thrust assembly from Tower I think.

[jkerr0043]

There's no picture but this is what I use. It's the perfect size and it works great. You really need one if you're running a ball diff.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAW30&P=7

[Grifter]

Thanks!

[Scafremon]

Originally posted by ugman
Scafremon: Are you sure you had the gear mesh set properly? I haven't broken a spur gear yet. If you are running stock micro you shouldn't be going through spurs...
I may not have had it set correctly, but I did try and follow the instructions (piece of paper width meshed between the gears). I'll get some steel ones.

[Grifter]

Will I be able to charge a 7.2v Micro Battery Pack with a Piranha Peak Charger?

I dont I will, but I'm not quite sure.

Thanks!

[Scrad]

You won't be able to use the Piranha charger. You can't adjust the amps for that charger.

[Grifter]

Thought so.

The MRC Brain works though, right?
What's a popular Micro Battery Charger?

[Scrad]

The Hot Bodies charger is popular for micros.

[Grifter]

Thanks!

[jkerr0043]

I like to use my Indy 16X5 for all charging. You can get very precise adjustments with it for almoast any cell.

[ugman]

I just wanted to know if anyone here has the Futaba 3PK radio system and is running it with 7.2v. I know the manula says to only use 6v but just wanted to know what you guys think.

[k_sw31]

I like the MRC super brain, cheap, works, adjustable :D

[Ezrem]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
There's no picture but this is what I use. It's the perfect size and it works great. You really need one if you're running a ball diff.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAW30&P=7

So...you put the thrust bearing in place of the plastic spacer that you first press into the wheel hub? Then put on the O-rings and such (if you have a ball diff)?

I assume this is where you mean, anywhere else and the balls would not stay in place.

[jkerr0043]

Yeah, it goes in the right rear inner wheel. If you look in your instruction manual, you put it where you put part number 73403 on page 6.

[Got Speed]

I finnally got my speed 300. I see that it says 6V on it. It won't harm it to run 6 cells or 7 cells will it? It won't wear it real fast like the stock motor, will it?

Also I have one other problem, the rear diff rubs against the bolt that holds the motor mount to the pod. Has anyone else had that problem? If so, what did you do?

Thanks for the help! :)

[RacerST]

Ive read faqs and dont need my question answered. Why cant I delete!!

[t3customdriver]

How do i hold my servo down, because the double sided tape doesn't work that good?

[InspGadgt]

HPI has a servo mount out now but if your servo doesn't fit that and you don't plan to use the servo in any other car use Shoe Goo. That will hold it great. Just make sure to apply it thick enough so that when it comes time to remove the servo you can get an exacto blace under the servo.

[slaf]

Hi all !

I just bought a Micro RS4 with a Novak Spy ESC, the car run well. I'm really surprised by this car. Where can I find foam tires for the Micro RS4 ?

[ugman]

Here is a link to the fronts. The Rears are listed on the same page.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=TM1800&FVPROFIL=++

[trxstr1961]

WOW!! just what i need for all my spare sets of rims. cool.:cool:

[k_sw31]

They come with chrome dish rims :D

[Grifter]

Just got my Micro!! I just came home so I dont think I'll start building it tonight. But I'm definitely going to open the box and see my new Toy!!

Cant wait to start building!

Man I love getting new RC Cars!

[Grifter]

Well, I started building at around 11 and finished at about 2. It was an extremly easy car to build, I had a lot of fun.

I havent run it yet, taking little break. I found out that the XL-1 ESC is too big, ha! But I was going to "downgrade" to smaller Electronics anyway. And since I dont have paint for my Corvette body, I'm just going to get used the car first.

[k_sw31]

Yeah, I tried an XL-1 at first too, just a little too huge :p

But on the plus side you can cram super roosters in :D

[trxstr1961]

also found just the foam tires minus the rims :D

[RushMan86]

hey guys, I am planning on purchasing a RS4 micro. I am mostly gonna be running on carpet and simulated hardwood. So is there any that I should purchase as a must have for it. I mean anything.

[k_sw31]

Well, chances are, for carpet you'll want foams, and hardwood you'll want soft tires (slicks) but check at you track and see what the other guys are running (assuming your racing)

Another thing you'll want it an aluminum pinion, and a servo mount (or good ol shoo goo :D)

[RushMan86]

No I am not racing. I all ready race on road nitro trucks, and off road nitro. No cash left. But its just for fun. But I mean I want it to go as fast as possible with a smaller budget.

[beeper]

Hey guys!! Can I see how you guys are setting up your Rat Zas Chassis. I am trying to get ideas on what componets to run. Thanks for the help.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RushMan86
No I am not racing. I all ready race on road nitro trucks, and off road nitro. No cash left. But its just for fun. But I mean I want it to go as fast as possible with a smaller budget.

Here is what you can get for speed that won't cost too much. Im kind of in the same situation as you. I race offroad nitro and own a 1/8th scale buggy and play with the micro for fun and hold my own races with friends.

Speed 300 motor and motor mount $20

Steel pinion $4

6 2/3 1100 mah cells $14

Shrink wrap and battery braid $6-10.

So for not tooooooo much you can get those things which will move your micro pretty fast.

[ofna_Kdog]

Can someone post a link to where I can buy a speed 300 motor? Would radio shack carry it?

[ugman]

ofna_Kdog: http://www.microrcstore.com

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by ofna_Kdog
Can someone post a link to where I can buy a speed 300 motor? Would radio shack carry it?

Or www.speedsterracing.com

[MMTM]

Here are a couple shots of my new Audi R8 body. I had some trouble w/ my paint sticking and the masking (weather was too cold and wet) but I covered it up OK. Its my worst paint job in a long time but its going to get raced either way. Check it out.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/race3.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/race4.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/race5.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/race6.JPG

[Tstalion79]

doesnt seem that bad...

when its being raced people wont even be able to notice the problems with it so dont worry about it.

[Got Speed]

Sweet!!! I have been hoping someone would make an Audi R8 body ever since I got my micro. Ive got to get one! :p lol

[ofna_Kdog]

Anyone have trouble turning with your micro? My car seems to kind of 'hop' whenever i turn sharply, even at medium speeds. Should I loosen my diff??

[nitrorc2003]

Does anyone know if a LRP IPC Pro Sport might feet in a stock chassis? Thanks.

[k_sw31]

Yeah it will fit fine :)


Kdog- If im correct, you should stiffen the suspension up, and try loosening your rear diff a little :)

[ofna_Kdog]

thanks k_sw31

[nitrorc2003]

thanks k_sw31!!:)

[ronbeck]

what's your micro setup?

mines
3500 standard chassis
megatech aluminum motor pod
megateck motor heatsink
hpi heat sink motor plate
hpi front one-way
orion 6.0 volt
megatech body posts
hpi ti antenna
xxl rx
ko propo 1000-fr esc
jr xr3i
med front tires
med-soft rear tires

bodies
civic w/light kit, 911, modena, gmc,

[MMTM]

Here is mine:

ARM chassis
Flash ESC
Elite stock motor
cs-35 Micro servo
tie-rod link steering
Kit tires
6v brick saddle pack
ARM Audi R-8

CLK body is for my girlfriends car
http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/race2.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/race5.JPG

My girlfriend's new ride (novice class racer):

Penguin 3500 LM
Novak Spy
Kit motor
cs-35 Micro servo
tie-rod link steering
Orion soft tires (rubber)
4.8v saddle pack 1100mah (broke down an HPI 5 cell pack)
CLK DTM

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/penguin2.JPG

[the turd]

how do i adjust the gear mesh? when i put in my mod motor i dont think i got the right mesh setting and it wore down my plastic pinion a mm or 2 where it contacts the spur gear. the local hobby people didnt have the steel pinion or else i wouldve gotten that too. how do you adjust the mesh? Thanks in advance:)

[k_sw31]

The plastic ones just wear down fairley quick any ways, hold out for a metal one, but you can set the micro mesh's really loose, like, set it so the pinion 'slips on the spur when you drive it, the put the gears just a tiny bit closer so it wont slip,

It works really well :)

[ebtucker]

New Micro owner here. My micro has a BMW m3 body with Orion speed streaks orange decals. Orion CRF Ultra chassis, Powerline rear ball diff, motor pod, rear pivot, front top cover, Golden Horizons CV shafts, front ball diff, front pulley, and Hot bodies steering knuckles. Motor is a stock Orion, stock battery pack with Rayovac 1800 NIMH, Orion Flash ESC, Futaba 122JE rx. Hope to replace the rx with Novak XXL and Battery with an 7.2 pack, and motor with a Orion Big Block.

[ebtucker]

oh and uses a S3003 servo.

[jkerr0043]

Good battery and a hotter motor and you're pretty much set. What about tires? Kit tires aren't exactly desireable from my experiance. Was it a built project when you baught it or did you build it up youself?

[ebtucker]

It was just a kit when i bought it. The GH parts came from an ebay seller (rcpartsguy). the powerline parts and the Ultra chassis came from Tower Hobbies, and the HOt bodies knuckles came from RCBoyz. Tires and wheels are stock, plan to buy some 1-piece nylon wheels and higher performance tires later.and replaceing the body with a Nissan Skyline R-34 GTR (my favorite car)

[Grifter]

What's the best way to secure the Servo to the Chassis.

Shoe Goo?

Thanks!

[k_sw31]

Shoo goo or a servo mount :)

[ebtucker]

I used a remount kit for a cellular glass mount antenna. i know for a fact it is so sticky that it takes a lond handle screwdrive to pry it off. Go to a Cellular phone sales office and ask about a remount kit for a glass mount antenna. They may or may not have anymore, they are just about phased out. I do still have a very few of these pieces and they are what i used to attach the servos to my clodzilla dual servo mounts.

[ugman]

I was wondering if there are rims for the micro that would bolt on rather than press-fit on. I have seen some pics of micros where it looks like they did just that. Any ideas?

[InspGadgt]

Almost all the aftermarket rims are aluminum and made to the M3 width with the exception of the GH aluminum which have width adapters. I think the GPM ones do as well if you can find them anywhere. Check out these 2 links they carry lots of micro rims

www.teamspeedster.com
www.microrcshop.com

[jkerr0043]

Anyone try boiling micro tires off their aluminum wheels yet? Let me know how it worked. Also, do any of the other racers running big blocks notice that you're going through front tires much faster than rears? I'm running soft rears and medium fronts on my EXO just like Mike's setup and the rears still look almost mew but I've burned up two sets of fronts already. You'd think I was running soft up front but thay're not. Any ideas?

[k_sw31]

Try stiffening up your rear suspension, make sure your rear diff isn't slipping either, thats all I can think of... :)

[trxstr1961]

WHOA!! just got a set of aluminum rims in the mail today! man r they SWEEETTT! black split 5 spoke rims with adaptors. gotta get me a new body now :D

[MikeR]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Anyone try boiling micro tires off their aluminum wheels yet? Let me know how it worked. Also, do any of the other racers running big blocks notice that you're going through front tires much faster than rears? I'm running soft rears and medium fronts on my EXO just like Mike's setup and the rears still look almost mew but I've burned up two sets of fronts already. You'd think I was running soft up front but thay're not. Any ideas?

That's just the nature of those front tires- they have lots of carbon and so wear quicker compared to soft tires that have more 'rubber'. We had a chance to try the foam tires and all I can say is WOW:eek: Mass grip, quick acceleration and longer run time... not sure about the wear yet but they have to be about the same as the medium soft rubbers... and oh, they have so much grip we had to shoo-goo them on the hubs so that they didn't 'grip' right off!

In any case come out and play Sunday!

[jkerr0043]

I'll be there. I just need to get some new fronts. I think I'll get some soft ones if I can find some in town. I have some foams but they seem to like to chunk if the asphault isn't nice and smooth. Maybe I'll try the foams in the front and the rubbers in the rear:) See ya on sunday. (Poway this week, right?)

[Dr. Wankel]

I'm having some trouble with the tires that came with my micro kit. They seem to bulge out around the ceter line. I've been driving mostly on concrete and the tires are only wearing on a thin strip down the center. What can I do to get the contact patch over the entire width of the tire?:confused:

[Philly's Finest]

Hey everyone

I am finally gonna break down & get my micro. I've wanted one since HPI released them but have been pouring money into my other rc's. I figure I'll hop it up so do you think it would just be better to project it and build it up from scratch? Or should I just get the kit & go from there?

[jkerr0043]

That all depends on how far you want to go. You can put together a very race worthy car and use quite a bit of the kit parts. The main upgrades are going to be:
Motor
Chassis
Electronics
Batteries
Tires
Diffs

If you plan on going farther than that, project it. If not, I don't think you could get all the other parts you're short plus the hardware for less than the $90 for the kit.

After I was "done" (are they ever done? :) ) with my car I thaught I should have built mine up. But now I'm planning one for my wife and I'm realizing to get all of the parts you need that aren't really "upgrades" or don't really "need" to be upgraded will cost me a lot more than the kit is going to and buying the key things that will improve the performance.

[Philly's Finest]

Alright I guess I'll just go for the kit. I mean if I go overboard I could always just build another car w/ whatever is less.

[Compudude_y2k2]

I would just get the kit. I have a basically stock chassis, exept for suspension, tires and drive axles, but I have all the good electronics (Novak Spy esc, hitec super micro servo, Orion mod motor, Orion 7.2v battery), and It is wicked fast. As long as you get good electrics (and a metal pinion gear), the car can handle lots of speed.

[Philly's Finest]

Yea I have some old stuff from when I ran my old car. I figure the only thing I'll need to buy is a micro servo & I'm set. So any suggestions on a chassis upgrade?

[jkerr0043]

Team Epic EXO. I ran a Ratzas Pro Pan chassis and thaught I liked that until I changed over to the Epic. It's like night and day. Plus I prefer the battery and electronics layout of the Epic.

[ugman]

If I were to get a new chassis, it would have to be the RATZAS Xtreme Unlimited Micro Conversion (http://www.ratzas.net/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=277) . I think the layout is perfect!!

[Grifter]

Here's my Micro, havent done anything to it yet. The next trip to the Hobby Shop should get my Steel Universals and paint for the body(Corvette C5-R) I took off the heat sink to my XL-1 ESC so the body actually fits on it now. I'm looking to upgrade to a 7.2v Battery Pack and an Orion Elite Mod Motor. And eventually a Penguin RC Le Mans Chassis kit.

[Grifter]

Sorry for the unclear pictures. I had to resize them and they got all messed up.
Another:

[Sorcerer002]

Wow, those are some HUGE electronics. You may want to invest in some wire ties for all those wires.

[Grifter]

Originally posted by Sorcerer002
Wow, those are some HUGE electronics. You may want to invest in some wire ties for all those wires.

Yeah I know, the size really hurts it's performance. But right now I'm not running it that much. I'm def. going to invest in smaller electronics, it was part of my original plan. But for now I'm just having fun!

[Scarab RC]

That looks a little top heavy. If you're not planning on racing it then why bother buying new electronics? Save your money unless you have it to burn (and in that case, give me some).

Scarab

[Grifter]

I bought my Micro with a GC so it wasnt a very planned out purchase. I couldnt really afford a 1/10 scale so I figured the Micro would do. I'm getting a Motor, Battery and Chassis. I'm not racing, but if I see a need I might buy a MC230CR ESC. they're cheap and every small. But I dont know yet, we'll see what happens.

[InspGadgt]

I agree with jkerr...the Epic EXO is the best layout for the Micro. It keeps the batteries and electronics in as close to the center as possible for reduced chassis roll. It's also more narrow then any of the other pan style chassis so it can be used with both narrow and wide bodies. The only drawback is the wheel base can only be 150mm...that's not a problem for me because all the bodies I prefer are 150mm and the car handles best in 150mm with the widest settings.

[RoachRacing]

Damn this is a long thread!

I just got my micro rs4 yesterday, and I am all ready looking for websites with info about them. I bought my kit used and noticed that the little part that keeps the belt in place was missing. Can this be replaced with a screw and a bearing?

Also looking for places that sale 1/16" g-10 fiberglass sheets and 1/16" carbon fiber sheets.

thanks

Corey

[InspGadgt]

For the graphite check Penguin RC...Windtunnel racing also makes but we've been having lots of problem with them lately. I'm using a bearing on my belt guide but it's a hard one to find.

[Got Speed]

Does anyone have problems with their Superbrain chargers? Killing batterys? Dumping during a race? Any problems with them breaking?

How hot do your motor and batterys get after running?

[k_sw31]

Well, with the super brain it has a horrific false peaking problem, the only way I have found to fix it is by placeing it on a room fan (set on low) so there is a constant airflow going through the charger, so your batts would probably dump prematurly if the charger had false peaked.

The super brain is a good deal for the money, but it still isn't that great.

Luckily for me my dad just ordered me a reedy quasar pro! :D
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascp1000.jpg

[trxstr1961]

I got a micro for christmas and love it. It was used, but its still the funnest car in my collection right now. Questions r as follows:
1: where can i get tires for this at?
2: how do i put tires on aluminum rims that i just got?
3: is there ANYBODY that runs a micro in indiana?? i live in muncie and am getting tired of running by myself!

[jkerr0043]

You can get tires @ microrcshop.com, towerhobbies.com, teamspeedster.com, ratzas.com, any of these. You jusdt mont them just like any other wheel. The beauty part of aluminum besides the looks are when your tires are dead, you can boil them off and reuse the wheels.

[SICK AIR]

sup im new to micros butaready have tomuch invested lol. does anybody know where to get sorex carpet for a track

[ugman]

I picked my charger up the LHS and its awesome. Not one problem with it at all.
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/n/novp4475.jpg
Novak Ionic AC/DC Charger (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWL89&P=0)

[RoachRacing]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
I'm using a bearing on my belt guide but it's a hard one to find.

Any idea what size that bearing is, i have some pretty good resources for that kind of stuff.

[SoarNeck]

Hi all,

Sorry if this is an old question, but I couldn't find an answer in this thread (not that it's very easy too, since the search function is useless because of the way these individual car "forums" work).

Just as a bit of background, I've been running my RS4 (stock motor, 6 HE cells mounted in balance-center of car, soft rears/stock fronts) on a very tight, technical track.

One of the first upgrades that I bought was the GH adjustable front ball diff. Unfortunately, I found that the diff action was way too stiff, and ended up replacing it with the stock unit again. Also, it seemed to impede the action of the right suspension arm, since it was just a hair longer than the stock unit when adjusted properly.

I recently upgraded to an Epic chassis and an S300 motor (7.2V, 6V is too hot for the track), and I'm worried that the front diff may not last too long. Is there any way to "free up" the action of the GH diff? I tried disassembling it, but I can't get very far since the bearing plate doesn't seem to want to come out.

BTW - I use a Robbe Infinity II (http://www.aveox.com/8294.html) and Schulze isl 6-330dRS (http://www.schulze-elektronik.com/prs10_e.htm), since that seems to be the current topic!

[InspGadgt]

SoarNeck,

I'm running the non-adjustable GH front ball diff on my Epic chassis. Now I don't know if the same holds true between both diffs but it probably does so I think I know where your problems are. First off the diff in design is very cool but they skimped on some things. The collars used for the diff rings are very rough so the diff action feels very tight or ratchety. To fix this you'll need to disassemble the diff and polish out the diff rings(collars) to a mirror finish. Mine were pretty pitted up so I had to even do quite a bit of sanding before I could polish them. Now the binding...that comes from a binding of the universal. The GH outdrive shafts are just slightly too long at the inside end and push on the center of the diff ball cage. That too can cause the diff to be tight. The trick to fixing that is with the diff disassembled insert the outdrive shaft into the diff collar all the way until the set screw stops it at the end of the flat spot. You'll see there's about 3mm of shaft that extends out past the diff collar. Mark the shaft even with the collar and cut off the excess with a dremel. This will allow the shaft to sit in a little deeper which will free up the universal joint and suspension, and it will stop the shaft from binding on the diff ball cage. On mine the diff ball cage was just press fit in so once I dissassembled the 2 diff halves and removed the outdrive shafts then I used a large allen head driver to push the diff ball cage out so that I could get to the diff collar on the other side.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by RoachRacing
Any idea what size that bearing is, i have some pretty good resources for that kind of stuff.

Sorry man I don't know what size...I just measured them up to the bushing going through the LHS's stock.

[RoachRacing]

Thanks anyways. Since I dont have the stock one I will just pull one of someone elses car and measure it up.

[MikeR]

Soarneck- To remove the black ball cage you have to knock atleast 1 of the balls out of the cage. Once you do that stick a hex wrench into the cage and turn it as if you are unthreading it from the alloy shell. It is basically screwed in.
To free up the dog bone you'll have to drill out the steel outdrive enough so that the dog bone end doesn't hit and bind against the steel material of the outdrive... I guess it's something they still haven't fixed.
My problem isn't the smoothness, I'm more worried about the lack of tightness (lots of slippage) even when tightened all the way. I had to add sevaral shims internally to eliminate some slippage....

Best.

[SoarNeck]

Thanks a lot for your help guys...I'll try to put it to good use.

Now I can't wait for work to be over so I can go run my car again. New chassis, motor, speed control (Quantum Rev...gotta love year-end store rebate cheques!) AND body! Should be a completely different feel from before.

Oh, by the way...have people had problems burning out the stock motors? I got a couple little bits of rubber in the front pulley that loaded the belt a bit, and I burned out THREE stock motors before I realized what the problem was.

The car would run fine, and by the end, I was bringing it in every three laps or so to check the motor temp. It would always be a catastrophic failure...running fine and cool, then WHAM...instant grind to a halt. Turning the motor over aftewards, it was clear that the commutator had exploded, since I could feel the copper plating grinding against the case at the rear of the motor. Even at $16 ea (Cdn), that makes for an expensive day at the track.

I guess the only way to be sure would be to use my Astroflight Whattmeter to check the current draw every now an then...but what a pain! I'm hoping that the S300 7.2V will be a little more tolerant to overloading (we pick up lots of junk since it's also a 12th scale pan track).

I was running 6 HE cells and an 11 T pinion (with proper gear mesh...I checked), through a Jeti 18A control.

[k_sw31]

I have only burned up one stock motor, and that was when I was running a full 6 cell sub c cell sized pack :p

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by MikeR
To free up the dog bone you'll have to drill out the steel outdrive enough so that the dog bone end doesn't hit and bind against the steel material of the outdrive... I guess it's something they still haven't fixed.

I find cutting off the extra on the end of the drive cup works better and is easier then trying to drill out the cup. It's much easier to cut a round shaft then to drill it accurately.

[MikeR]

True- it is easier unless you have a drill press. You just have to be sure and not bind up the bearing though because the outdrive will be pushed in even more. Those plastic front bulkheads are tricky as it is with all the binding it creates on the diff bearings- have you ever noticed how tight the diff spins inside the bulkhead? I'm trimming plastic for now but I'm thinking of getting an alloy one for the better fit.

[InspGadgt]

Actually once you cut them they won't get pushed in tight against the bearing. The current problem is that they are too long and push against the diff ball cage. When I cut mine down there is no binding whatsoever. If anything the drive cups are kind of loose which is good.

[tl01boi]

they have the hpi micro rs4 kit for 88 dollars at my lhs should i get it

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by tl01boi
they have the hpi micro rs4 kit for 88 dollars at my lhs should i get it

The cheapest Ive seen it was $80 plus shipping. You will pay however much tax is in your state difference. But yea it's a good deal. If you don't want to wait it's only a several more dollars.

[GA Maxx]

I got my micro, its stock apart from soft rear tyres, flash esc, hpi modified, i have the team orion 5 cell and 6 cell. i ordered the TO big block but was out of stock so i put the £30 towards a B£ buggy:D
i lvoe micros

[PJCruz]

Hey guys, I have been in Nitro RC for a while so RC isn't new. I just bought a Micro last week (haven't put it together yet.. will this week).. and have some "hopups" already too. Just wanted to tickle your brains for some info.. please...

Here's my rig so far: Micro rs4 (M3, 150WB), TO Flash ESC, TO 7.2v 1100mah pack.

* Mod motors: There's the HPI, the TO Elite and "Core", and the Big BLock or the Speed 300, etc. I have the flash esc and basically it says NOT COMPATIBLE with the Big Blocks. I have heard of a "solder on" board for the ESC that allows the Block to be used. True? Also, is the HPI mod.. about as fast as the Orion Elite or Core? What is the differnce b/w the Orion Elite and the Orion Core motors.. there is a sizeable price difference.

* How are the brakes on the Flash ESC?

I can't think of any others right now...... but I will ;-)

Thanks
pete

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by PJCruz
Hey guys, I have been in Nitro RC for a while so RC isn't new. I just bought a Micro last week (haven't put it together yet.. will this week).. and have some "hopups" already too. Just wanted to tickle your brains for some info.. please...

Here's my rig so far: Micro rs4 (M3, 150WB), TO Flash ESC, TO 7.2v 1100mah pack.

* Mod motors: There's the HPI, the TO Elite and "Core", and the Big BLock or the Speed 300, etc. I have the flash esc and basically it says NOT COMPATIBLE with the Big Blocks. I have heard of a "solder on" board for the ESC that allows the Block to be used. True? Also, is the HPI mod.. about as fast as the Orion Elite or Core? What is the differnce b/w the Orion Elite and the Orion Core motors.. there is a sizeable price difference.

* How are the brakes on the Flash ESC?

I can't think of any others right now...... but I will ;-)

Thanks
pete

I've been using a "Big Block" (Wattage 370 motor-same thing) with my TO Flash for a few monthes now and it's fine, no additional parts required. The Orion elite is much faster than a core or the hpi mod, but no where near as fast as a Big Block. The elite mod does have a lot more torque than any of them. As far as the brakes go, they suck! Of course I'm used to running a Novak GT7 in my TC3 where you can damn near dial it to have nitro like brakes. But they are not good on the flash. You end up throwing it into reverse half the time because there's no brake lock out. I just try and set the car up to where I need as little brake as possible and be very gentle with them. And there's also a little delay off the line. Not as hugely noticeable with a big block but anything with less power and it got real annoying. I'm going to get a Spy as soon as I can free up a little extra$

[RCFAN]

i am looking into getting a micro rs4 they look like they could be lot of fun. what i need to know is what's the best chassis to get i want the big block and what esc also what batt's are you all running and with the big block what kind of run time's are you getting what is the best charger to get andwill a regular servo fit. thank's

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by RCFAN
i am looking into getting a micro rs4 they look like they could be lot of fun. what i need to know is what's the best chassis to get i want the big block and what esc also what batt's are you all running and with the big block what kind of run time's are you getting what is the best charger to get andwill a regular servo fit. thank's

-Epic chassis
-Big Block (or get the speed 300 w/ the motor mount from teamspeedster.com)
-1100mah cells from Promatchracing.com
-Get a Spy or LRP ESC (don't get a flash)
-about 10 min max
-Indy 16x5
-Have to use an 81mg micro servo with the Epic chassis.

[sybir]

I picked up a used micro, with what appears to be Eagle Model front suspension mount, and rear engine/suspension mount (both blue anodized, I'm not sure who else does this color?)

Anyways, some of the screws are missing, specifically some of the chassis screws; 2-56 and 4-40's don't fit (too small/big, respectively) and I can't find metric stuff this small anywhere. It's a really fine thread, but noone can tell me what will fit....
any ideas?

Length doesn't matter, as long as it has a flushmount head and the right thread pitch, not like I can't dremel them shoreter.....

[InspGadgt]

If you get the Epic chassis then don't use the ARM motor mount that you can get with the Speed 300 motor from www.teamspeedster.com. This motor mount mounts the motor too low and interferres with the rear suspension. The motor mount used in the Orion BB kit elevates the motor 1mm higher then the chassis so it will not pinch the rear suspension. I found that out the hard way :(

[AEcrazyT3]

Hey Just got my first Micro and I love it... Cant stop playing with it! My question is though, is there a major performance diffrence between the 140mm RS4s and the 150mm RS4? Is there much to converting a 150mm kit to fit a 140mm body? Thanks for the help!

[Got Speed]

150mm is more stable and less twitchy than 140mm. 140mm is for shorter very tight tracks 150mm is for longer tracks with bigger turns. Most people prefer 150mm 9 times out of 10. If you have 140 and want 150 it isn't too hard. You just need a 150mm belt which is about $8. And you need to move the motor pod back into the rear holes.

[AEcrazyT3]

I read through all of the RS4 Micro thread! Now I am almost ready to start my upgrade plan! My LHS has pretty strick rules though for Micro racing and I want to make sure that when I do hit the Mod (anything goes as long as it does not put a hole in our wall) class that I have all the parts to spend a week modifiying and then hit the track.. I think I know what I am going to go for but I have one thing I have not really reviewed yet... Where can a guy get or see a penguin chassis? Is there a web site for this or what? Thanks for the support guys!:D

[Got Speed]

AEcrazyT3- www.penguinrc.com The penguin chassis is a good chassis but check out the epic chassis too.

Has anyone heard about the new ratzas chassis? It looks similar to the epic. For those who have them, how is it? If youve owned other chassis how does it compare?

Has anyone seen www.racewayrc.com 's track? It's awesome. I guess since the pictures they have added banked corners and elevation changes.

[AEcrazyT3]

Which is a faster motor right out of the bag, orion big block or the speed 300? I know there are many veriables but lets just say on a completly stock rs4..... 4 AAs... Big block or 300?

[jkerr0043]

Same motor with different stickers. And Orion puts a capacitor board on the bigblock. That dosen't change the speed though.

[sybir]

anybody have any ideas on that screw size issue?

[AEcrazyT3]

Okay im sure you are all getting sick of these questions but has anyone tried a BL system on the micro? What kind of estimated speed did you get? Was it worth the money? How was the control? I think it might be an option I may be intrested in but I also need to make sure I can race it in that classic race cat. (modified, but dont put a hole in my wall)... Thanks guys..

[Got Speed]

AEcrazyT3- Same motor. You can buy a capacitor board for the 300 for $3.00. The big block is about %75 more $$ and has a blue mtor plate instead of a sliver one.

These don't have enough torque do for the micro do they?
Go to e b a y and here is the number- 3111687700

[AEcrazyT3]

Seems like a great deal... Dont know about the tork issue though.. But for the price and the size I think I am going to give it a shot.... If it does not work out then I am sure there is some other uniqe application to do with it....

[Got Speed]

AEcrazyT3- A 60mph micro will most likely put a hole in the wall. :D lol

Most people probably won't let you run a BL in a modified class. Maybe a super modified but most likely not a modified class. Extremely cool though and extremely expensive at around $300 for the full setup.

[AEcrazyT3]

Yea I think I will save the brushless for a 1/10 touring car.. I am going to try my luck at the track though today or tomarrow.. I did get a chance last night to strap an extra four AA cells to my micro using a reciever batt pack.. Funny thing is though I really didnt notice much of a speed diffrence... Oh wells. No holes in the wall yet!

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by AEcrazyT3
Yea I think I will save the brushless for a 1/10 touring car.. I am going to try my luck at the track though today or tomarrow.. I did get a chance last night to strap an extra four AA cells to my micro using a reciever batt pack.. Funny thing is though I really didnt notice much of a speed diffrence... Oh wells. No holes in the wall yet!

With the stock motor?

[AEcrazyT3]

Yep.. Straight up stock... I was not expecting 20+ mph but A little extra umph would have been nice... How fast should a stock micro kit be? I really have no one to judge mine by..

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by AEcrazyT3
Yep.. Straight up stock... I was not expecting 20+ mph but A little extra umph would have been nice... How fast should a stock micro kit be? I really have no one to judge mine by..

Are you using the 9t pinion? If so you probably won't notice any more top speed. How did you have the extra cells wired? BTW: you might want to make sure your esc can handle 8 cells. The stock motor will burn up very quickly with 8 cells. The speed 300/big block will accept 8 cells but it accelerates wear.


For those looking for batterys here is the best deal I have found: www.speedsterracing.com They have 6 NiMh 2/3a 1000mah batterys for $14!

How hot does everyone's batterys and motor get after a run?

[AEcrazyT3]

Okay tell me if this makes a diffrence.. Im good with this stuff.. Okay I cut the end off of a recv pack and striped the wire tips off.. Then I cut out a small section of the insulation off of the stock batt pack and simply hooked up the positive to the positive.. I didnt solder anything because it was more of an expieriment than anything.. Does that sound like it should work fine? Oh and Yea I still have the 9t pinion on there... Seemed like a cool idea at the time..

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by AEcrazyT3
Okay tell me if this makes a diffrence.. Im good with this stuff.. Okay I cut the end off of a recv pack and striped the wire tips off.. Then I cut out a small section of the insulation off of the stock batt pack and simply hooked up the positive to the positive.. I didnt solder anything because it was more of an expieriment than anything.. Does that sound like it should work fine? Oh and Yea I still have the 9t pinion on there... Seemed like a cool idea at the time..

It should go positive to negative(if Im not mistaken) which will give you more voltage instead of runtime.

[hyperstang]

Here is my island racer...
This is my 140MM Racer Honda Civic with Ratzas Racer chassis, GPM upper rear deck, Duratrax ESC, futaba servo and powered by a Graupner 300. Very fast Micro.....Race on..

[k_sw31]

Well, to join the brushless discussion (not really sure what we are talking about, but hey!) I dont really think It would be a good idea to throw a brushless motor in a micro, though it would be neat :) To be honest I do not think it could handle the power. I have recently got my 'mild' bruhsless setup working in my T3, and boy this thing hauls ass! It pops a friggin wheelie going around 25 mph :eek: To be honest I haven't had the nerve to let it top out, though I have been hitting around 40 anyways :D

I think belts would be flyin and diffs would be exploding in a micro at the many RPMs :D

[AEcrazyT3]

What is the stock speed of a micro?

[Got Speed]

AEcrazyT3- They say it is 18 with the biggest pinion but I think it is a little less than that.

k_sw31- If I can find it I will post a link to the site I found a movie of a brushless micro on. They have to strengthen the drivetrain alot I guess but I don't think there are too many problems with stuff breaking once you get aluminum drivetrain parts.

[Got Speed]

Oh, and:


hyperstang- That is a good picture. You ought to send it in to RCCA.

[hyperstang]

Got Speed,
Thanks......This was taken Super Bowl Sunday..Glad you like it..

RACE ON....

[Scarab RC]

Time to toot my own horn.

I just won the 8 week points series at my LHS for the HPI Micro RS4. Got my big First Place trophy and everything! Stock motor was the only mandatory rule but everything else on the car was fair game.

It's not how you play the game, it's if you win or lose.

Scarab

[hyperstang]

WOW...
at least you got a trophy....Ours is a potluck at the end of the season....better than nothing I guess...

Race on....

[Scrad]

I got 2nd in ours. Lost by .2 points. Came down to the last race of the year. If they would have been giving TQ points I would have won though. We give out gift certificates or trophies. Which ever you want. I have so many trpohies from karting and r/c, so I usaually get a gift certificate.

[Scarab RC]

What is your setup?

150mm

Ratzas Pan Chassis
Ratzas Pro Upper Deck
Ratzas Rear Deck with VCS shock

HPI Front One-Way Diff
HPI Front Aluminum Diff Housing
HPI Rear Ball Diff
HPI Motor Heat Sink
HPI Steel Universals
HPI Servo Saver and Toe Kit
HPI Medium Front Tires
HPI Soft Rear Tires
HPI 5 Spoke Flat Wheels (because they do not have a "lip" they will break off in collision with the wall)

Team Orion Spring Set - Running softer-than-stock blue springs

Boca 5x11x4 Green Seal front wheel bearing

GH Long Body Pins

Proline 360 Modena Micro Body

JR 3550 Mini Servo
Team Orion 1100 mah battery pack
Team Orion Flash ESC
Novak FM Receiver

Everything else is stock.

Scarab

[hyperstang]

I currently run 2 Micro's (150 MM and 140 MM )
The 140MM is the Red Honda Civic...built from all the extra parts from my racer micro..

Ratzas Racer chassis
GH front diff
GH purple pulley
Team Homies rear Diff
Team Orion Soft Springs for the front
No rear shock
GPM steel dogbones
Graupner 300
HPI Softs all around

My Modified Micro (150MM)...will post some pics tonight

ARM pan chassis
Speed 300
Team Oriion soft springs in the front
GPM aluminum upper brace
GPM dual rear shocks
HiTec mini servo (mg)
home made steering linkage with adjustable camber (got from an old HPI site)
Team Homies aluminum knuckles
Team Homies Dogbones
Team Homies Rear diff
GH aluminum pulley
GH front diff
Futaba 230CR
Novak receiver
HPI softs all around
HPI chrome rims
soon to come...corvette body..

I think that's it...I'll get some pics tonight..

Race on

[Got Speed]

Where can I find team homie stuff? Is it any good?

[hyperstang]

I got my Team Homie stuff from a local dealer here in the islands. I did, however, see some stuff from team homies on ebay. The seller is from Japan and pretty cheap if you order more than one item and only pay a small shipping. The sellers name is "stellamodels" or "rl0725" or something like that. Try looking up 1/18 micro on ebay and alot of the Japan sellers should pop up.

I love the knuckles by team homies. Better than the GPM ones in my opinion. I will post some pics of my 150MM racer......

[Scarab RC]

hyperstang,

Your LHS doesn't have any rules? You can run whatever you want?

Scarab

[hyperstang]

This past season,
only rule was the power is limited to 7.2V....That's it. 2 qualifyings and 2 mains (A and B). So basically if you want to run your HPI stock motor with a 7.2V against 6 or 7 other racers running Elite Mods and Speed 300's, big blocks running the 7.2V power supply....it is all good. You can run pure stock with 4 AA against everyone else....it's all good.

This season coming up...I think there will be 3 classes and stock, mod, and super mod. By the looks of things I would run the mod and super mod.......Not written in stone yet though...need to check out the shop on Thursday..

Race on...

[InspGadgt]

hyperstang...were you racing with us at Sandy Fleming's? That pic looks like it's somewhere out here.

Our rules were basically 7.2V or less batts and pretty much any motor except BLs...but no one could really afford them anyway...lol

My current setup. Some of this stuff is new and I havn't had a chance to test it all out...but I expect it to be even better then it was:

Team Epic EXO chassis
Speed 300 motor (Formerly HPI Mod)
Quantum Reverse ESC
XXL Reciever
Hitec 81MG servo
2/3rds A 7.2V pack
Toyota GT1 body (Formerly Corvette C5R and BMW M3)
Custom made rear deck
GH Shocks front and rear
GH Ball diffs front and rear
No upper deck (EXO chassis doesn't use one)

Car ran very good with the previous setup and I expect it to be scary fast now with the speed 300. It was allready keeping up with the BB motors with the HPI. I think that's because the EXO is slotted for the belt and doesn't have any belt rub to slow it down.

[hyperstang]

Of Course I was out there all freeeekin night. Remember till about midnights......Just joking.

I ran the 140MM mustang with alcad chrome and red flames.

[hyperstang]

OK
Here is my 150MM racer micro with all the fixens...

[Got Speed]

Is 11 oz/in of torque enough for steering? If found a 9G micro servo with 11oz/in of torque for $12 on e b a y. Still 300+ left.

How much life does everyone get on there 6 cell packs and Big Blocks?

hyperstang- thanks

[Got Speed]

Oh and:

Will aluminum wheels make performance suffer. I want to get some so I don't have to throw out the old ones, look better, and Ive heard they hold on alot better.

[Scarab RC]

Is there a good online store for buying electric RC stuff? I'm looking for Novak charger, Integy 30amp discharger, matched battery packs, etc...

Thanks for any info.

Scarab

[Scrad]

A couple of us at the LHS had problems with the TRC wheel coming off in a crash. So what we did was cut out the TRC rim in the middle so you can get to the nut. Then just super glue the rim to the wheel hub. So if you want to change the wheel you can take the hub completely off. Click here to my LHS web page and you can see a car with the rims cut out.
http://www.galaxyhobby.net/RCRacing.htm

[hyperstang]

Hey Got Speed,
My Big Block last me for about one year running 7.2V for 3 races each night. From about Feb to Dec, so I am needing a new one for this up coming season. But I have an extra speed 300, so I will run that for now. As for aluminum rims. If you plan on racing you micro on a regular basis, I would totaly avoid running aluminum rims. I have seen racers running with us with Hardcore rims and these awesome looking rims, which cost him a pocket full, get bent, twisted out of shape and dented. Man, when you have someone running a speed 300 with 7.2V going full on in a straight and just wrecking entering the turn right after....this micro does many summersalts and at the end is a very bad sight. So I personaly would just stick with the HPI chrome rims.

Also a great place to look for micro stuff is Vinces web-site..
www.microrcshop.com and also check out servocity.com for cheap servos less than 30.00 shipped..Also check out RATZAS.net

Race on

[InspGadgt]

Cool I thought so...who are you? I can't seem to place a name with the car. Who's carying that Team Homie stuff? I'd like to take a look at some of it.

[hyperstang]

Team Homies stuff you can get from Eric from hypersports....
That is where I get most of my stuff from....He is the hook up if you need stuff.

Who are you and what car did you race....

[somedude8908]

does anyone know how much this is worth , iam not selling it I want to buy it ,i dont have any electric cars , only nitro cars . this is what it is , hpi rs4 with radio and 2 motors and 3 bodies and the strut bar for it
the car would also include 5 batterys and a charger

[AEcrazyT3]

Well Im not the athority on how much that should cost and really it depends on the equipment condition but I would say that if everything was in good shape maybe.... $200.... I would probably be looking to pay in the $150 range.... Its a fun car... Hope you get the chance to take one for a spin.. Its awsome to race on a small tight track!

[trickedoutGT]

I was wondering if this is a fast setup:

-Powerline Chassis
-GH Front one way
-LRP micro ESC
-Peak Mod motor(45t)
-Peak CHUBBY motor (30,000rpm)
-4 1800 mah NiMH Batteries
-High Touque Servo( hi-tec)

I know..i know...ditch the AAs and maybe get a high speed servo. But how fast would it go with the stuff I listed above? Thanks

[jkerr0043]

If you want speed, ditch the peak 45turn mod. and run the Chubby and you're right, get a set of good cells. But with those batts and the chubby, you'll still be pulling some good speed but I don't think you'll be getting the run time. With a good set of cells and big block type motor, (Chubby, Speed 300, BB, etc...) You can keep up with a good 10th scale car running a stock motor in the straight.

[ronbeck]

has anyone seen painted pics of the new team orion bodies yet? just wondering? :confused:

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
I was wondering if this is a fast setup:

-Powerline Chassis
-GH Front one way
-LRP micro ESC
-Peak Mod motor(45t)
-Peak CHUBBY motor (30,000rpm)
-4 1800 mah NiMH Batteries
-High Touque Servo( hi-tec)

I know..i know...ditch the AAs and maybe get a high speed servo. But how fast would it go with the stuff I listed above? Thanks

Yea go for the chubby or the speed 300, or big block(all the same thing).

You asked the speed on that. I really don't know but I do know that the big block dosn't really do too well on 4 cells.

Ditch the powerline chassis and get either a team epic, penguin, or possibly the new ratzas chassis. Personally I like the epic. Get 6 1000mah 2/3a NiMh cells instead of the 4 AAs, don't get a high torque servo, get the hs-81mg.

[Got Speed]

I just got an MRC Superbrain charger. Since I got it used I don't have any instructions for it. I am charging my 6cell NiMh 2/3a cells, 7.2V NiCd stick packs(for a starter box), TX and RX batteries. Im lost on exactly how to use it since this is my first battery charger. I know 1 amp is ok but for the delta peak threshold should I set it at 05 mv? Does it automaticly find the number of cells and adjust the voltage accordingly? How can you make it charge by adjusting all the features instead of plug and play? I am asking the question about the 6 cell NiMh 2/3a cells. The other batts if you have any info there too.
I tried it at 1amp, 10mv peak threshold, then hit start. I tried my pack and it dumped after 10 seconds. BTW: I do have a fan on it and it is not hot at all. Neither is the battery.

Thanks

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by hyperstang
Team Homies stuff you can get from Eric from hypersports....
That is where I get most of my stuff from....He is the hook up if you need stuff.

Who are you and what car did you race....

Burt....I organized the races. I ran my Team Epic chassis a couple times with the yellow, chrome, and color changing green/blue Corvette C5R

By the way...first race of the season is coming up this weekend. I probably won't run as I still need some parts but we'll see.

[hyperstang]

Burt...this is Sean,
I ran the blue corvette, with my ARM Chassis, then I put together my 140 and ran the mustang COBRA with Alcad Chrome and redflames....I ran with Jay and his ultra bright orange corvette..

Yeah I probably will make it to the first race but not race it. I am going to do the gas car on Sunday. I heard Eric is getting the new Hardcore pan chassis with upper decks...Gotta check it out..see ya out there..

Race on

[Dinternetman]

hello micro rs4 owners

I'm just curious as to how fast they go after getting realistic mods,

Also a while ago RCCA did 40 with all the parts available at the time, is this true? Have any of you beaten that?

Sorry if this question has been asked b4 in this thread, but there are 61 pages!

[AEcrazyT3]

Have any of you tried this motor out yet?

Peak Racing Turbo Coreless Modified Motor

What is a coreless motor? Suppost to be faster? It carries a pretty heafty price at tower... Thats why I ask... thanks...

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by AEcrazyT3
Have any of you tried this motor out yet?

Peak Racing Turbo Coreless Modified Motor

What is a coreless motor? Suppost to be faster? It carries a pretty heafty price at tower... Thats why I ask... thanks...

It has the most torque of all the mod motors(except brushless motors) but it isn't as fast as the big block/speed 300/chubby.

[hyperstang]

I think its just another version of the Orion Elite Motor...They can hold run better with more power (7.2V)...the big blocks and speed 300 are faster but are recommeded to run a no more than 6V...Trust me I killed 3 motors (2 big blocks and one speed 300).

Race on.

[InspGadgt]

Yeah lots of our racers have been burning up the Speed 300 based motors running 7.2v. Which is why I went with the Speed 300 instead of the BB because it's more affordable to burn up.

The problem guys were having with the coreless motors is that the face of the motor is plastic so they've been stripping out the motor screw holes.

[hyperstang]

you are absolutely on it!!!!

That's why I don't run my Elite Mod...I stripped the the plastic, so now the screw slips right out. I managed to squeeze in my speed 300 into my 140MM micro...Tight fit.

Yeah Speed 300 are way more cheaper than the BB. I think I have one more in stock and if that goes this season, well call it a year....Nah just joking..

Maybe I'll buy one off ya!!!!

Race on..

[InspGadgt]

lol I've been getting mine from team speedster

[jkerr0043]

I got my SPY this weekend!! I love it. Actually my wife baught it for me for Valentines day and she gave it to me right away so I could have it for racing on Sunday. How cool is that? This thin is so much smoother than that Flash I was running. And I love being able to disable the reverse. I just thaught I gloat about how cool my wife is to buy me a gift like that for V-day:)

[AEcrazyT3]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
I got my SPY this weekend!! I love it. Actually my wife baught it for me for Valentines day and she gave it to me right away so I could have it for racing on Sunday. How cool is that? This thin is so much smoother than that Flash I was running. And I love being able to disable the reverse. I just thaught I gloat about how cool my wife is to buy me a gift like that for V-day:)

Ur lucky! I got a pair of pajama pants and a shirt... Which I got eairly for no aparent reason.... Your wife needs to talk to mine!

[hyperstang]

My wife said I could get my Savage truck for Valentines......now it seems I can get it after we do our taxes......what next christmas gift????

No, but I love her.....she let me get my Nitro TC3...I was really surprised..
Race on...

[Philly's Finest]

I am about to pick up a micro. I was wondering if I can use a receiver pack for the batt. How long does it take to build the kit?

[Got Speed]

You shouldn't rush building your kit because many problems can occur. If you have had previous expereince probably a couple hours or so if not maybe 5 hours or so to do it well. You can use a reciever pack but you will have to buy a plug and solder it on the pack. It is far best to get some 2/3a 1000 mah NiMh though. They will last longer, go faster, ect. You can 6 individual cells for $14 at www.teamspeedster.com

[RAYMAN1OO7]

hi, i will be buying a micro w/ honda civic coupe body, novak spy esc, novak spy lithium ion micro dc charger/battery, and a hitec 81mg servo. the only option part i have in the cart is the hpi universal steel dogbones(all this is at towerhobbies). i think thats a good start. now i know there are a lot of companies out there that make chassis, i would like to know what kind you like the best, i really like that ratzas one i saw in rc car action. if you could list 1 2 3 the kinds there are and the sites, i would really appreciate it.now after i get a chassis, what are some other wise upgrades, like ball diffs(team orion, hpi, etc, whats the diff between the two anyway, hehehe), what parts are good to get aluminum and what parts are good to leave stock. thanks for all the help,
Ray

[Philly's Finest]

I don't have a micro yet but I would say cvd's & the ball diff would be a good place to start for upgrades. As far as the chassi go Ratzas makes 2 different one's I beleive. One flat pan chassis with a lower center of gravity & one similar too the stock. ARM makes a cheap pan chassis. Penguin R/C & Team Epic have really nice chassi. Epic seems to be very popular.

I don't really know the sites but if you check this thread back around page 28-29 there are a list of sites. You could also use the search tool if you can't find it. But you might want to page through the thread and read a few pages. You could pick up some tips. good luck

[RoachRacing]

I have bought most of my stuff from Micro RC Store (http://www.microrcstore.com) good prices and quick delivery.

[SoarNeck]

Hey Ray, here's what I've had to do to my car, in the order that it was done. I only upgrade when I absolutely have to, since my airplanes cost me enough already!

Good quality cells - started with the stock motor and 6 cells (www.edogfight.com)
Metal pinion - absolutely required with 6V+ systems (Team Orion, I think). I'm still using my 12 T
Soft rear tires- keep the hard fronts, but try soft rears. I used Dynamite tires because they came in a set for $19Cdn, and only ended up using the rear set. Traction compound will help, but can make the car traction roll. Make sure to use a spacer to keep the wheels from being pushed on too far...I use a zip tie in each wheel. If you don't upgrade the chassis, lose the spring on the rear shock.
Epic Chassis (www.team-epic.net or something like that) - keeps the cells nice and low, and I like the servo saver. I ran an Airtronics 94141 servo gooped to the stock chasis, then switched to a Hitec HS-85MG with the Epic.
Graupner S300 6V (www.hobby-lobby.com) - modified the stock mounting plate to accept the new motor, which saved the cost of a new plate. Was WAY too powerful for the small track I run on with 6 cells, but perfect on 4.
LRP Quantum Reverse speed control - because my Jeti 18A speed control (www.hobby-lobby.com) wouldn't work on 4 cells
Golden Horizons CVD's and ball diffs - because the stock parts blew up from the S300.

I also replaced one of the steering arms with a new plastic part after one too many collisions with the track side, since the whole set of bits was only $9. They didn't have the GH aluminum knuckles in stock at my LHS, otherwise I probably would have tried those.

I'm probably going to try 5 cells and a smaller pinion next.

Hope that helps,
Adam

[Allen T]

Which charger can be used to charge the 1100mah packs(HPI,Orion,etc) for the Micro RS4?

Do you need an adapter plug? (since the battery plug looks small)

I have a Duratrax Intellipeak Pulse charger. Will that work with an adapter?

Allen T

[AEcrazyT3]

I have that same charger.. It works great with the orion batt packs. I do tend to baby them though and I keep a real close eye on them. But I have had no problems so far! And you should not need any special adapter. I am still using the Tym plugs that came with the car and that charger came with the same type so its been smooth sailing. I charge mine at .5 just to be safe...

[Allen T]

AEcrazyT3,

Thanks for the reply. When you say charge them at ".5", do you mean half an amp? I'm used to charging stick packs, and haven't dealt with the small packs.

One thing that helps with the Intellipeak charger (this is a tip I got from these forums): Point a fan at the charger while it's on. Mine works great when I do this.

But....you probably already know the fan trick, don't you!:D

Allen T

[SoarNeck]

Not all 1100mah Ni-Mh's are created equal, so be careful.

The KAN950 and HECells are both very good cells (2/3A), and can handle currents up to the 14-20amp range (the KAN's are as good as the old red Sanyo 500AR's, if anyone here remembers them). I would condition them at 0.4 amps, charge normally at 1.1A, and press the rate to 1.5A if needed.

I have another set of 1100's that can't take a 6A discharge however, and died quickly charging them at the same rates. The cells look the same from the outside...so be careful.

[davespencer]

Hi i was jest wondering will a 6 pack set up with 4 horizontal and two upright cuz i thought they would so i took some batt's and made a pack and they fit except the batteys that run accross the chassis doesent clear the belt. let me knwo if i jest wasted time and money or let me know how to make it fit thanks a bunch.


The fish is back

[Allen T]

Guys,

I'm trying to decide what car to get next, and I'm thinking about a Micro. I'm not going to race (I don't think), but I want a tricked-out ride....here's what I'm considering:

*Micro RX-7 kit
*HPI front universals
*Team Orion packs....or Trinity Micro Zip 5 cell packs
*HPI 45t Mod motor
*Airtronics BL2DR Radio (will this reciever work?)
*Novak Spy ESC
*Hitec HS81MG servo (which connector? they have "J", and "S/JR/Z")
*Motek (Epic) chassis
*Motec servo mount (for the 81mg sevo)

Since I'm not going to be racing (yet), I'm not sure about diffs. I read a LOT of posts about diffs. I'm looking for DURABILITY, first!

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

Allen T

[k_sw31]

The front diffs suck, and you might as well buy a new rear diff while your at it......

[jkerr0043]

If you're going to be running a Motek chassis, you shouldn't get the pre built batteries. You'll just have to pull it apart and rebuild it to work with that car. I get batteries from www.promatchracing.com Get the single cells and when you buy the Motek chassis, they include the instructions on how to build the batteries for that chassis. As far as diffs go, a front ball diff or one way is a must, basher or not. The gear diff is simple and fairly reliable but not very smooth.

[Allen T]

JKerr0043,
You mention a front ball diff, but nothing about a rear diff. Got any suggestions, or is the kit one sufficient?

I take it that everything on my list, other than batteries/diffs is cool?

Thanks!

Allen T

[jkerr0043]

If you're bashing, the kit rear diff is ok but if you're going to be replacing the front anyways, I'd do the rear also. Go with the HPI rear diff. I run the GH and I don't like it all that much. I race with the guys from Motek and they run the HPI rear diffs. Just make sure if you go with a ball diff in the rear that you replace the little plastic bushing in the right rear wheel hub with a thrust bearing. The MIP one for a Losi car fit perfectly. Here's a link to the one I use. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAW30&P=7

[InspGadgt]

Motek? Did they change their name?

Yeah the HPI rear diff is a lot better out of the package but the GH one can be made just as nice with a little bit of work. I wanted a front ball diff for mine and the only company making one is GH so I bought both front and rear GH ball diffs. The main reason these diffs feel so bad is the diff rings they use are just kinda rough washers. when sanded down and polished out they become very smooth diffs.

[trickedoutGT]

i just got a micro and i hooked it up. steering works fine. the motor does not move. i hooked it up with another motor and it still doesnt work. i am using a lrp quantum reverse and a fm radio if it helps. thanks

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
Motek? Did they change their name?

Yeah, I talked to Mike on Saturday about it. He said there was a conflict with some other RC company that had been around longer with the same name so to make things simple, they just changed the name instead of trying to fight it.

[microrcdude]

Building another micro. I cannot believe that the lhs owner's car got whooped the other day by mine. His car ruined $30.00 on my car. O well, I guess that finishing first in the A-main is worth it

[InspGadgt]

Jkerr,

Tell Mike I said Hi (Burt from Hawaii) and see if you can find out when they are going to release their rear shock/body mount for the LMP/GT1 bodies. I've seen pics of Mike's car with the body on and it looks way cool. I'm making one myself but am currently waiting on the standoffs I need to be machined by a friend.

[jkerr0043]

He won't let me see his car:) At least not anything but the body. Although he did let me dirve it the other day. All I have to say is that it handles better than My TC3 and is about as fast in the straights. SMOOTH! Mike's a huge help though. He seems to have an answer for almost anything. The latest thing is we've all found foams! They're working awesome on asphault as long as you seal the edges with a little CA glue or shoe goo so they don't chunck. (I was a victum of that a few times before he filled me in.)

[Tstalion79]

Hey guys. I am selling my whole micro package! I know it's sad that I didnt even get to run it, but It is for sale in the for sale thread if you are interested... It has like no stock parts on it btw...

[Jason C]

Hey guys. I've been out of touch with this forum for several months due to excessive school work. The folks at the University are making me jump through hoops to get my BS...

Anyways, have there been any new bodies for the Micro since September last year? I'm an import fan and I was hoping to see more of them like Celicas, RSX, Eclipse, etc.


Thanks.

[metalry101]

Hey guys,
I guess it's just a coincidence, but I'm trying to sell my Micro too. It's highly modded, and it's definately a sweet ride. I'm probably gonna put it in the for sale forums here, and if I don't get any offers, Ebay. If you're interested at all e-mail me at metalry101@hotmail.com

[trxstr1961]

hey all, just got me a 65 stang body for my micro. Went to ht in indy and couldnt believe the price for a 150 belt $9.00!! :eek: i didnt get one since i didnt need it.

DANG IT! wish bolink would post body sizes, now i find out its a 150 body GGGRRR, gotta get a 150mm belt now!

[trxstr1961]

now i just gotta get a paint scheme for my new ride

[k_sw31]

Blue to Black fade with a black (or white would look interesting maybe....) backing :)

[RoachRacing]

I was wondering if this would be something people would want.

I have a friend that has made aluminum spacers to fit inside the stock wheels. This spacer keeps the tire from being pushed to far on the hub. I was thinking of taking over production of these and selling them. It would be under $10 for a set of 4 (2 fronts and 2 rears). Also I would offer different widths, full out and full in.

Before I used these I had my wheel pushed on too far because of a small smack on the boards. The rest of my race my car didn’t drive the same at all.

Is this something you would buy? If anyone is interested I will post pictures of the spacers.

Corey

[Dr. Techn0]

Hi guys,

A lot of you might know me from the old HPI USA forum as Dr. Techn0. I just wanted you all to know that I've ask a good friend to list my Atsushi Hara Edition Pro 3 for sale on Ebay. I no longer need this car as I'm being sponsored by a good friend. Those of you who've seen the car knows how well I've taken care of the car and how nice it is. So, if you're interested, please do a search under HPI Pro 3 or HARA on Ebay. I don't think I'll ever make up the lost for the investment I've put into this car, but trying to get whatever I can and maybe not even 1/2 of what it's really worth. Bare in mind I was down at the HB and met with Hara himself who happens to be messing around at the time and helped me alot on this car. Thanks for just looking.

Dr. Techn0

[Dr. Techn0]

Original box is sign by Atsushi Hara.

[Dr. Techn0]

Comes with all original manuals and is considered a "Collector's Item". But you can judge that for yourself.

[hyperstang]

Here some pics of my new Hardcore chassis..
enjoy...

[AEcrazyT3]

OMG! Big spender! How do you like the performance? Have you used other chassis? Give me your thougts on it.. I might be able to talk my wife into letting me get a set up like it! Your out in Hawaii right? Im heading out there in Three months.. Maybe Ill see that chassis shining at the LHS.... :D

[hyperstang]

AEcrazy,
This chassis is lighter than all of the other chassis I have used,
I currently run both set ups when I race (140MM and 150MM). This new hardcore one is set up for 140MM and it hauls but with an elite mod motor. My power supply is the new NOVAK lithium Ion and this thing punches 7.6V to the elite.

My racer Micro....is my 150MM set up with all the fixins. It is powered by a speed 300 and running on a ARM pan chassis. This was my most consistant set up. I love the pan chassis and I can pull the trottle on this thing in sweeper, and where most micro racers running smaller chassis spin out, I am gone...big time. Also powering it is the lithium Ion battery.

My 140MM race set up was just the left over parts from my 150MM racer and I used a RATZAS RACER CHASSIS. I really liked this chassis and it ran great. Now with the hardcore setup, I have the lightest micro out there and wicked fast. I really suggest picking one up if you are as hardcore as I am. I also have the first gen. hardcore chassis set up...Now has retired, shinned up and place with a beautiful skyline body on it. It is my all show, and no go micro.

I will post some pics of the two together.....tonight..

Race on...

[Tstalion79]

my poor micro is off to ebay :(

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=3119247451&rd=1

[hyperstang]

here is a pic of my two Hardcore chassis...

[hyperstang]

One more...

[hyperstang]

This is how they look on race night...Well, Just the mustang...

[RoachRacing]

Please check the following link for some important recall information regarding the Novak Spy Li Ion battery and charger.


http://teamnovak.com/Recall/Li_ion_Recall.htm

[trxstr1961]

i have a micro also, run it pretty much box stock, cant see the need for hop ups. since i got it, all ive gotten for it is a new body and a set of aluminum rims. now the body is a bolink 'stang but it didnt tell the size....well now i found i need a new belt for it...ggggrrr thought it was 140, but its 150.:(

[hyperstang]

Hey Roach Racing....good call..

Man I am returning these to Novak as soon as they tell me how.....

Race on.

[Got Speed]

Nice bodys. I don't see how titanium can be lighter than carbon fiber?

[hyperstang]

Sorry..let me clarify..

before I ran the NOVAK ION (which is on the recall), believe it or not I ran a straight line of AA energinzer batts. And this bad boy made the 150MM, ARM chassis very heavy, but very fast, compared to the Hardcore set up, running with the ions, way lighter, but chassis for chassis ARM is lighter...

Now with the reacall, I may need to get a brick pack..OH WELL until Novak fixes this problem, was fun while it lasted...

Race on..

[salito123]

quick question for you guys, I recently got my micro (PICTURES TO COME)

I'm really a nitro guy and this is my first attempt at these cars. question is

I am trying to mount soem foam tires and the wheels have a lip aroun the edge, how do i mount the foam tires? is there an insert thats required and where can i get it, any help will be appreciated, thanks

[Scrad]

Hey guys I'm selling my Penguin micro, so check it out in the for sale section if you are interested.

[french-fry]

Here, had some fun and strapped my digicam to my micro:
http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~serriere/100_0212.MOV
The file is about 3 megs. Enjoy.

-fry

[RoachRacing]

nice movie! so what college do you goto? looks like typical dorms.

[jkerr0043]

Look at the web address, must be ucla.

[AssociatedRacer]

Hey guys I might get a Micro. Can anyone tell me if there is a strong class at socal, and if so what are the people running?

Thanks

[french-fry]

Yup UCLA, GO BRUINS!!

[jkerr0043]

I was just at Socal this weekend with the guys form Motek. Novak sent three guys there too. We had a total of nine drivers. Mike wants to set up some kind of a first Saturday of the month Micro class.

[AssociatedRacer]

wow didnt know that many. If thats the case im sold! what kind of stuff do you guys run so i can be competitive?

[jkerr0043]

It's going to take a lot to be "competitive." Including a lot of excelent driving. Mike and Orlando are very good drivers and the guys from Novak were very fast too. I broke so I didn't really get to race them much but they were a lot faster than I was and I've got a lot of hopups including the Motek chassis, promatch batteries, 370 motor, Spy ESC, TRC foams, front and rear ball diffs, etc... It was still very fun to see these little things running with some 10th scale cars during practice. Just watch out for them. I got punted about three feet in the air