Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v4.0

[kreidel1]

Hey Kronic...my friend just picked up one of those chassis and he weighed it and said that it is weighs as much as the stock chassis but is thicker.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Mike
I try to use a slow wall charger on my gell cell and radio. Be a real drag frying this computer radio. My other cells get charged on a intellipeak digital. I run fast tires 45 to 30 shore depending on the track. Check with the fast guys at the local track and see what they run.
Hey pro3 don't you have a sirio installed in your NTC3? Have any troubles with it? Just got one ordered from ultimate and was wondering. Man talk about a hard engine to get.
TC3

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by AggieTC
Hey, i'm thinking about getting a NTC3, after about a year o0f following it, with a BIG break.

Anyway
I have an RS4-2 now, and i have a new .12 CV-RX in it now, i'm pretty sure that i want to convert it to a Non-pull and drop it into a PS NTC3. So this is what i'm asking

I'm going to have a Starter box Battery (12v Gel Cell), Receiver pack (NiMH), Radio (NiMH), as wel as regular 7.2 stick packs for my other R/Cs. I was wanting to know what you guys are using and how good they are. i was looking at the Pirahna Digital Peak Charger, not bad of bang for the buck. at $49 @tower.

Also, What Tire/Foam Choice do you have for a stock ntc3, i wa slooking at the pre-mounted team orions, since i NEVER have luck at gluing tires.

Thanks
Mike


Personally, rather then getting a starter box, I'd get the Power Starter from Racer's Edge (http://www.racers-edge.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit). It bolts on to the back of the engine and lets you start the car with a drill. If you want a good starter box, get the Associated. The NTC3 drops right on it. The Charger you picked is good, pretty much plug and play for stick packs. For the 12v cell, you'll want to charge it with a full size car charger (at least thats what I've heard). You choice of tire will depend on your track.

[theShark]

those power starters still use one way bearings....defeats the whole purpose of getting a bump start engine

[kreidel1]

Why would you want all that weight mounted on your car not to mention all that drag that oneway bearing is going to make on your engine slowing it down? Not to mention the extra wear and tear. Do you have something against performance? DO NOT use a full sized car charger...unless you want to buy a new battery. You will fry that little battery very easliy with a automotive 6-10 amp charger...it is much better to slowly charge it with one of the overnight ones.

[waileun]

Originally posted by AreCee
First off, I don't quite understand what you are trying to say about the failsafe. Adjust it as described in the manual, it's pretty simple.

Second, the earphone jack is so that you can plug in an earphone to hear the timer beep over the noise of a bunch of nitro engines during practice. Just as stated in the manual.

Hey sorry, when I read what I have written, I didn't quite understand myself too.
Anyway, there was a guy saying that his 3pk failsafe does not kick in fast enough. But what I wanted to say in my last message was that my 3pk failsafe kicks in very fast.
As for the earphone jack, my manual does not mention about the use of the earphone jack at all. Maybe mine is the earlier version of the manual.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by kreidel1
Why would you want all that weight mounted on your car not to mention all that drag that oneway bearing is going to make on your engine slowing it down? Not to mention the extra wear and tear. Do you have something against performance? DO NOT use a full sized car charger...unless you want to buy a new battery. You will fry that little battery very easliy with a automotive 6-10 amp charger...it is much better to slowly charge it with one of the overnight ones.

All what weight? Are you saying so you are so competative, so fast, such a good driver that you'd notice a few ounces on your car? Give me a break. Let me guess, you are the kind of guy who can tell a performance difference between different types of fuel tubing. :D I look forward to seeing you win the Worlds. The reality is, pullstarts are slightly slower but only marginally, and that margin makes zero difference at most club tracks. The power starter is compromise between a pull starter and a starter box. The FYI, most car battery chargers are 12/6 volt charges, and generally include a slow charge mode.

[kreidel1]

HauntedMyst, You must be pretty young....maybe even a baby. Can I tell the weight difference???? Most likely but if I know if something is lighter and less maintenance and might make me faster why would I wany it any other way. You are pretty defensive considering I never attacked you. And as far as winning the Worlds you never know, do you even know who I am??? Probally not.

[HauntedMyst]

lol I'm actually probably older then you are. No, I don't know who you are, but why not fill us in on yourself? I wasn't being defensive at all, you were the one that pointed out about "all that weight mounted on your car not to mention all that drag that oneway bearing is going to make on your engine slowing it down" which simply isn't true. Were you not the one that made it sound as though add a power starter was "all that wieght?" How much weight? An ounce or two. Less maintenance? Maintaining a starter box, charging the batteries, replacing the wheels is easier then popping your drill charger into its stand or yanking on a pull cord? The question is, why would most people give up the convience of a pull starter or power starter for only marginally better performance, performance they aren't likely to see for the average club race?

[kreidel1]

"Are you saying so you are so competative, so fast, such a good driver that you'd notice a few ounces on your car? Give me a break. Let me guess, you are the kind of guy who can tell a performance difference between different types of fuel tubing. I look forward to seeing you win the Worlds."

Read what you wrote and tell me that isnt meant to ruffle my feathers. Hey, if you like weight throw a anchor on the top of your car, I dont care what you do. But fact is it is heavier to have a EZstart type thing or even a pullstarter on your car. I dont see Barry Baker using a pullstarter or Ezstarter. Could he win with one on his racecar??? Its possible but why woulld he bother if its a known fact it wont make him or his car faster? If it is so much better to use ezstarters then why have I never seen any comptetive top racer use one? Lets not start a flame war, there is a place for both pullstarters and starterboxs in this world. And if I offended you I apologize, those were not my intentions.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
Mike
I try to use a slow wall charger on my gell cell and radio. Be a real drag frying this computer radio. My other cells get charged on a intellipeak digital. I run fast tires 45 to 30 shore depending on the track. Check with the fast guys at the local track and see what they run.
Hey pro3 don't you have a sirio installed in your NTC3? Have any troubles with it? Just got one ordered from ultimate and was wondering. Man talk about a hard engine to get.
TC3
Believe it or not I still havent had a chance to break it in, the car was a winter project and it was too cold to break it in when I had the time and now Im swamped with work and dont have time, but that'll all change in about 2.5 weeks. I didnt have any trouble getting mine, tower had plenty in stock. I guess they werent as proven then and people were hesitant to buy them, I know I was. I just checked and was very suprised to see them on order at tower. According to Maverick Racer there is a new version of the Sirio with no mid range needle and a turbo crank(now legal under roar) this new version is supposed to have higher rpms but less torque. It depends on which ultimate has in stock its the same part number as the original one. Im glad I have the older one because I like the fact that it has more torque, I just hope its not harder to tune.

[theShark]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I wasn't being defensive at all, you were the one that pointed out about "all that weight mounted on your car not to mention all that drag that oneway bearing is going to make on your engine slowing it down" which simply isn't true. Were you not the one that made it sound as though add a power starter was "all that wieght?" How much weight? An ounce or two. Less maintenance? Maintaining a starter box, charging the batteries, replacing the wheels is easier then popping your drill charger into its stand or yanking on a pull cord? The question is, why would most people give up the convience of a pull starter or power starter for only marginally better performance, performance they aren't likely to see for the average club race?


Well being not that great a driver...YES I want to squeeze every bit of power I can. Maintaining a starterbox is hard? you still need to charge your drill and replace the bit unless thats all you're using it for. I would rather walk with a box than a drill and pushing the car down on the box does not take a great deal of effort. Not to mention that one way bearings start to slip after abt 6 gallons and non pull start engines can be mounted lower for better cg.

btw I use both...bump start in my cars and pull start in my trucks

[TC3Kamikaze]

pro3
Yeah I hear ya on being swamped. Got about ten projects at the shop right now myself. I was going to get the sirio from tower but they are on order now, figures. I forgot to ask which one ultimate had but either will do for me. I'll let ya know how the break in goes. Should be here next week so I can get it going.
TC3

[Ford850]

What is the best pinion and spur gear set-up for a .12 CV-RX motor on a average parking lot track?

Thanks

[HauntedMyst]

kreidel,
What I wrote wasn't meant to ruffle your feathers, but to change the perspective of the power starter/pull starter. I apologize if I came off harsh. I think we're just looking at it from different sides of the fence.

[codeman]

hey all,

what upgrades would you guys reccomend for the NTC3?
Ball bearings for the steering rack, carbon upper deck ... anything else?

I'm comming over from an MTX-3 :) The Mugen just isn't made for the type of tracks I race on around here (pure parkinglot racing)
TOo much maintenance, and the parts supply around here is absolutely nill for the Mugen

[FLiPStaR*]

quick question, i just got a rc10gt+ and love it now i want the NTC3 rtr, but i hate the body that comes with the set...

is the RTR chassis fit 200mm bodies or 190?

i think its 190 but i need claification.:D

[1nsane]

Originally posted by codeman
hey all,

what upgrades would you guys reccomend for the NTC3?
Ball bearings for the steering rack, carbon upper deck ... anything else?

I'm comming over from an MTX-3 :) The Mugen just isn't made for the type of tracks I race on around here (pure parkinglot racing)
TOo much maintenance, and the parts supply around here is absolutely nill for the Mugen

I am seriously racing with my NTC3 . I recommend :

Aluminium engine mounts
Lightweight clutch housing
Lightweight two speed hub
Aluminium center bulkhead
Front oneway diff
IRS Dawg bones
Bearings for steering rack and brake cam

[fastharry]

Originally posted by codeman
hey all,

what upgrades would you guys reccomend for the NTC3?
Ball bearings for the steering rack, carbon upper deck ... anything else?

I'm comming over from an MTX-3 :) The Mugen just isn't made for the type of tracks I race on around here (pure parkinglot racing)
TOo much maintenance, and the parts supply around here is absolutely nill for the Mugen




I have 2 tc3's.......

I parking lot race and run ROAR 2 events...one car is set up for rubber tires,the other for foams


I recomend you build the car stock...put in the steering rack bearings.....see if you can order "THE FIX" shock tower screws off ebay(or e mail Jim Reeves direct,its in his ebay description)..decide if you want to run rubber tires or foam,and build the car EXACTLY like it say in ths manual.....spendyour money on good servos amd engine..you can add hop ups if needed......you may not need a one way,esp for parking lot racing..(in fact,I run 2 ball diffs in both cars,and go deep into corners and out brake Mugen cars every time,and all others with one ways stock)....

I've yet to brake a CVD.....the motor mounts are nice,but not needed....I have the top trays,they look nice also..but not needed..


let me know what engine you want to run(pull or non),and I'll advise from that point.....

you'll like the car...

[1nsane]

Whoopssss , parking lot racing :D

Forget my recommendations . Spend your money for tires , shock oils-springs , spur and pinion gears . You have a fast car both for parking lots and tracks . All you need is good setups and tires . And also practice , practice and practice :)

[codeman]

Thanks guys.

Fastharry,

I will most definitly not be running a one-way on this kit :) Have one on my MTX-3, great for powering out of corners, and long wide corners but you know what? Nothing beats a good set of breaks; definitly needed for the tracks I'm on as well.


I will be using my ParisTop TN12S1 engine for the NTC3 (awesome engine, very very stable idle, VERY fast start ups even from cold )

Servos, I have a high speed/torque JR4705 (.12/90something oz torque) and standard for throttle.

My style is more suited to driving hard and deep into the corners and outbreaking, I'm sure I'l like this kit much better than my Mugen. :) or so I hope

btw, anybody want to buy a barely used MTX3 with extra sus parts, extra front outdrives +axles,CVDs, and Rossi black race pipe?

;) going for a good price! hehe

[Ford850]

would a 20/26 with 54/48 be a good set-up with a O.S. .12 CV-RX motor? I'm going to be racing on a parking lot track.

Thanks

[fastharry]

Originally posted by codeman
Thanks guys.

Fastharry,

I will most definitly not be running a one-way on this kit :) Have one on my MTX-3, great for powering out of corners, and long wide corners but you know what? Nothing beats a good set of breaks; definitly needed for the tracks I'm on as well.


I will be using my ParisTop TN12S1 engine for the NTC3 (awesome engine, very very stable idle, VERY fast start ups even from cold )

Servos, I have a high speed/torque JR4705 (.12/90something oz torque) and standard for throttle.

My style is more suited to driving hard and deep into the corners and outbreaking, I'm sure I'l like this kit much better than my Mugen. :) or so I hope

btw, anybody want to buy a barely used MTX3 with extra sus parts, extra front outdrives +axles,CVDs, and Rossi black race pipe?

;) going for a good price! hehe



....us teh HD opt. springs in the clutch...just 2 shoes is fine...I ahev the Crazy Nut aluminam shoes,I'll let you know how they work..the stock teflon shoes need to be scotch brited once in awhile..as well as the bell.......

also,when you build the diffs,recheck the tightness after after a few tanks....

the gear boxes(ball diffs) need a little tlc in this car...easy car to maintain,though..

[codeman]

when you say the gear boxes need a little TLC, you're reffering to "The Fix" correct? What about the ball diffs, are they included in the 'little bit of TLC' or are they solid? I havn't heard of anybody having problems with the actual diffs/deiff gears.

The ease of maintenance is awesome; this Mugen is such a pain to clean and maintain especially since I like the kit to look new. ( had it out racing today, after running the car about 25 tanks or so, and the guys thought i was bullshitting them as they thought I hadn't driven it yet! )

Ok, so I think on my list will be the following :

Break and Bellcrank bearings
Graphite Radio Tray
Harder clutch springs

How about any special air filter reccomendations? Would it be a good idea to get an air filter extension/elbow to move the air intake away from the very rear of the engine?

I know a dude at the track whose gone through 4 engines in 2 months from overheating. I don't doubt though he was running too lean, but I've also heard of fuel intake problems and heat problems.

Also, the air pressure line ... is it an AE special, where you just push the line into a hole in the pipe? It seems rather crude ...

p.s - i've heard the aluminum clutch shoes are great! don't know if I'll miss my Centax or not; probably will :)

[fastharry]

Originally posted by codeman
when you say the gear boxes need a little TLC, you're reffering to "The Fix" correct? What about the ball diffs, are they included in the 'little bit of TLC' or are they solid? I havn't heard of anybody having problems with the actual diffs/deiff gears.

The ease of maintenance is awesome; this Mugen is such a pain to clean and maintain especially since I like the kit to look new. ( had it out racing today, after running the car about 25 tanks or so, and the guys thought i was bullshitting them as they thought I hadn't driven it yet! )

Ok, so I think on my list will be the following :

Break and Bellcrank bearings
Graphite Radio Tray
Harder clutch springs

How about any special air filter reccomendations? Would it be a good idea to get an air filter extension/elbow to move the air intake away from the very rear of the engine?

I know a dude at the track whose gone through 4 engines in 2 months from overheating. I don't doubt though he was running too lean, but I've also heard of fuel intake problems and heat problems.

Also, the air pressure line ... is it an AE special, where you just push the line into a hole in the pipe? It seems rather crude ...

p.s - i've heard the aluminum clutch shoes are great! don't know if I'll miss my Centax or not; probably will :)





When I was referring to teh ball diffs,I just meant teh same procedures for any diff.....retighten after they're new,etc...


if your freind wrecked 4 engines,it wasn't the tc3......we've run close to 20 gallons through 10 cars,with every engine..never a problem...though the new gas tank helped tuning ease..

[codeman]

the new tank included with the kits correct?

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I just got a Yokomo Front way and tried it on my NTC3. But the gear stripped on first day. Can some one tell me where i can get it and the part no. for the gear replacement. Does Towerhobbies carries it and if you would give me the URL.

Thanks.

[JREEVES]

Thought I'd let you guys know we (BMI Racing and Bob Astarita) finally finished R&D, production and track testing on our new chassis design for the Nitro TC3. Just got to get the packaging sorted out to begin shipping. Here's a look, email me if you need more info. jreeves@aaahawk.com

[jscamry]

Has anyone used this (http://www.electrifly.com/accys/gpmm3150.html)charger or have seen it in use? I currently have the Pro max
Activator (http://hobbypeople.net/gallery/885650.asp) But i need a new one, mine is messing up and the warranty is past.




Thanks Jason

[codeman]

I hate to be a party pooper, but all these aftermarket chassis plates are BS.

They all take away from the design of the origional chassis. Part of the reason the NTC3 is so fast is because of the design of the chassis plate ... cut a bunch more holes into it, tack on some cheap sheet metal, thicken it, stiffen it to **** ... it takes away what makes/made the NTC3 such a great handling kit.

All you dudes looking for a new plate obviously aren't very fast drivers ;)

[codeman]

btw, better not run an AM radio on that metal monster :P hehe

[Clan O'Riley]

i'm thinking of geeting a starter box for my ntc3 and i want to get the ae starter box. can this box hold a 12v gel cell in side of it? i dont want to buy 2 battery packs because i already ahve a 12v gel cell. also if this box wont hold the battery inside will the ofna box that almost looks the same as the ae one hold it? i need to buy a box really bad, im tired of the pull start.:rolleyes:

[TC3Kamikaze]

I'd get the Ofna box if I had it to do over. It'll take a 12 volt gell cell easily. The AE box will with a bit of modding but the Ofna is set from the get go.
TC3

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by codeman
I hate to be a party pooper, but all these aftermarket chassis plates are BS.

They all take away from the design of the origional chassis. Part of the reason the NTC3 is so fast is because of the design of the chassis plate ... cut a bunch more holes into it, tack on some cheap sheet metal, thicken it, stiffen it to **** ... it takes away what makes/made the NTC3 such a great handling kit.

All you dudes looking for a new plate obviously aren't very fast drivers ;)

:rolleyes: What part of the original design makes it so fast compared to aftermarket chassis? What is it taking away from the original chassis? The reason behind aftermarket chassis, is the weight. Everyone knows a lighter car is a better handling car. This applies to 1:1 cars as well.

[ParadoxR/C]

Can anyone tell me where I can find "The Fix" at? I have looked on Ebay and was not able to find it. I have just finished building a NTC3, not raced it yet since several folks at our local track suggested getting something like the fix for it.

[mckrooz]

I just searched ebay and it is on there. Just type in "the fix" with the apostrophe. Or you can email Jim Reeves on here. That is his screen name here.

[AggieTC]

I was wondering if i should get the fix, What Exactly is it? Does it help? Should i get 2 for each case?

[JREEVES]

Email me at jreevesw@aaahawk.com for The Fix or The Chassis and I'll send you the links. Don't want to get booted from the Zone for advertising. Jim

[Walt]

Originally posted by mckrooz
:rolleyes: What part of the original design makes it so fast compared to aftermarket chassis? What is it taking away from the original chassis? The reason behind aftermarket chassis, is the weight. Everyone knows a lighter car is a better handling car. This applies to 1:1 cars as well.

I'm not the one saying the stock chassis is necessarily better than the aftermarket ones, however, I do know (from full size racing) that the bottom of a race car is very important aerodynamically. The flat, wide, stock TC3 chassis with few holes in it has got to be about as good as you can get (without going all 'F1' and designing in actual under car wings and such). I'd be willing to bet that the flat bottom chassis of the TC3 is much more of an advantage aerodynamically than most people, and even Associated's competitors, realize.

If I were to design an aftermarket chassis for the TC3 (or any other touring car for that matter), I'd make mine even larger. I'd extend all the way out to where the sides of a Stratus body would be, and only have the one hole for the starter box. Aerodynamic effects are huge on these cars... don't underestimate them. Generally, you want as little air to flow under the car as possible, and what air does flow under, you want it to have a smooth run out to the back.

Oh, and I haven't yet heard anyone say that the after market chassis are actually any lighter... they look to me like they could be just as heavy or maybe even heavier??? Does anyone know the actual weight of the stock chassis versus any of the after market ones? My logic is that if you took the stock chassis and cut a bunch of holes into it to lighten it, you'd be giving up stiffness, so to compensate for that you'd have to make the whole thing thicker, and then wouldn't you be right back where you were in terms of weight?

[Clan O'Riley]

what kind of modifications would i need to do to the ae box? i like it and i can get it from tower. i looked for the ofna box but they dont have it. i only have a ntc3 so the motor would always stay towards the back.

[kreidel1]

I know the K factory is a gram lighter than the stock associated one and the RC Hub chassis is the same weight. I will get you the exact weights for the stock, K- Factory and that RCHub chassis. He has all three and weighed them all. I agree that the stock chassis is awesome, but half the fun of having these cars is to trick them out, some for looks, some for racing. My friend runs a Hardcore Pro chassis and I have to admit...it is pretty sweet and his car runs alittle cooler than it used to with the stock chassis. He has won a few races and swears he wont change to another tub. I have driven his car and the only thing different between his car and mine is the chassis and his car does handle alittle better exiting the corner. We run identical setups ( engines, suspension, tires, fuel, bodies , everything ) and I can turn a faster lap time with his car. It might be a placebo or it might be the chassis, hard to tell but numbers dont lie. He actually turned faster laps since changing to this chassis and not changing anything else. I am sure the underside aerodynamics play a role but you have to factor in the weight vs aerodynamics vs stiffness and all that other stuff. That Hardcore chassis looks good also, so does that K factory so if it is straight up even performance between stock and aftermarket than for nothing other than looking different it worth it if you have money burning a hole in your pocket. I cant see spending alot of money to perform the same as stock but if you have money and want to look good than great. we need all kinds of people in this hobby to keep it moving forward.

[X-garage]

Originally posted by Walt
I'm not the one saying the stock chassis is necessarily better than the aftermarket ones, however, I do know (from full size racing) that the bottom of a race car is very important aerodynamically. The flat, wide, stock TC3 chassis with few holes in it has got to be about as good as you can get (without going all 'F1' and designing in actual under car wings and such). I'd be willing to bet that the flat bottom chassis of the TC3 is much more of an advantage aerodynamically than most people, and even Associated's competitors, realize.

If I were to design an aftermarket chassis for the TC3 (or any other touring car for that matter), I'd make mine even larger. I'd extend all the way out to where the sides of a Stratus body would be, and only have the one hole for the starter box. Aerodynamic effects are huge on these cars... don't underestimate them. Generally, you want as little air to flow under the car as possible, and what air does flow under, you want it to have a smooth run out to the back.

Oh, and I haven't yet heard anyone say that the after market chassis are actually any lighter... they look to me like they could be just as heavy or maybe even heavier??? Does anyone know the actual weight of the stock chassis versus any of the after market ones? My logic is that if you took the stock chassis and cut a bunch of holes into it to lighten it, you'd be giving up stiffness, so to compensate for that you'd have to make the whole thing thicker, and then wouldn't you be right back where you were in terms of weight?

Are you crazy? Aerodynamic of the car has less than 5% to do with the bottom...more than 90% of aerodynamic is on the top of the car! That is why real racing Touring Cars has to lower the body to keep the air from getting to much under. Only clear advantage that I see from the flat chassis is a good protection for the gears. If you have bigger chassis that means your car will fly like a bird.

[X-garage]

http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/GARAGE/picture_ETC/IMG_6188.jpg

[Distro]

Originally posted by X-garage
Are you crazy? Aerodynamic of the car has less than 5% to do with the bottom...more than 90% of aerodynamic is on the top of the car! That is why real racing Touring Cars has to lower the body to keep the air from getting to much under. Only clear advantage that I see from the flat chassis is a good protection for the gears. If you have bigger chassis that means your car will fly like a bird.

Actually the reason why they lower it is to suck the car to the ground. Keeping the air out of the bottom of the car doesn't give top of the car more downforce or less drag, but it does act like a vaccum and pull the car down to the ground.

[kreidel1]

A stock Associated chassis weighs 7.1 oz, a Hardcore Pro Titanium chassis weighs 6.5 oz and the K- Factory chassis is a lean 6 ounces even. I will try and weigh the Hardcore titanium regular chassis but I can imagine it is going to weigh around 7.5 or so. I am weighing a few different parts so if you have any paticular weights you would like email me.

[codeman]

ahahahaha,


Guys guys, the underside of the chassis is JUST as important as the downforce to be had from the top of the car. Actually, I'll let you in on a secret, the underside of the car allows the top of the car to actually create the downforce without generating enormous amounts of drag. Think of an airplane wing, the reason it has lift is because the airflow has to move faster over the top of the wing than it does on the bottom (because at the top of the wing, it has a longer distance to travel than the underside of the wing which forces the air to compensate with speed, to fill the negative pressure created by the top of the wing.; the opposite for downforce ;)

If you think the underside of a chassis can be cut to crap, and be just as effective you don't know much about aerodynamics. 1gram is NOTHING compared to the drag induced by a chopped up chassis plate.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Originally posted by Clan O'Riley
what kind of modifications would i need to do to the ae box? i like it and i can get it from tower. i looked for the ofna box but they dont have it. i only have a ntc3 so the motor would always stay towards the back.

You'll have to install it with some wire ties or double sided tape. Yeah that's Tower for ya they take awhile to get things. Nitrohouse has the Ofna box for the same price as Tower just an option mind you.
TC3

[Clan O'Riley]

thanx tc3kamikaze! i dont think the zip tie idea is that bad. i think i will get the ae box. thanx again for your help!:)

[kreidel1]

Codeman, I agree 1 gram isnt but want about a couple ounces difference? I have seen some cars 4 ounces lighter. And I have also seen coverings that people have made of lexan for some chassis to cover everything, that way you can go lighter and I guess maintain a larger uncut surface area.

[codeman]

well sure man, then you have the best of both worlds .. a lighter chassis, and possibly better airflow with the plastic covering the chassis cuts ...

You don't get that with any of these aftermarket plates though ... and thats what I'm getting at.

People buy these stupid plates with advertising all around the performance aspect ... 'increases performance' ... I'd go with, increases style.

No doubt some of those plates look awesome compared to the ugly stock chassis. As a matter of fact, the NTC3 is plain ugly and cheap looking compared to my Mugen MTX3

[kreidel1]

Thats a good question...what about the narrow chassis on the serpents and Mugen compared to the NTC3's?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by codeman
well sure man, then you have the best of both worlds .. a lighter chassis, and possibly better airflow with the plastic covering the chassis cuts ...

You don't get that with any of these aftermarket plates though ... and thats what I'm getting at.

People buy these stupid plates with advertising all around the performance aspect ... 'increases performance' ... I'd go with, increases style.

No doubt some of those plates look awesome compared to the ugly stock chassis. As a matter of fact, the NTC3 is plain ugly and cheap looking compared to my Mugen MTX3

F1 and or lemans like youve said b4. i think of the hardcore chassis as the bare chassis of an f1 car. all you need is a sheet of lexan to cover the bottom of the chassis and areo dynamics are taken care of. not only that it would look so sweet.

[waileun]

Originally posted by codeman
ahahahaha,


Guys guys, the underside of the chassis is JUST as important as the downforce to be had from the top of the car. Actually, I'll let you in on a secret, the underside of the car allows the top of the car to actually create the downforce without generating enormous amounts of drag. Think of an airplane wing, the reason it has lift is because the airflow has to move faster over the top of the wing than it does on the bottom (because at the top of the wing, it has a longer distance to travel than the underside of the wing which forces the air to compensate with speed, to fill the negative pressure created by the top of the wing.; the opposite for downforce ;)

If you think the underside of a chassis can be cut to crap, and be just as effective you don't know much about aerodynamics. 1gram is NOTHING compared to the drag induced by a chopped up chassis plate.

I can't contribute much to the science of areodynamics, but what i know is that with many holes on my chassis, the rc car gets all kind of dirts and stones coming through the holes and spoil my gears. I was considering patching up the holes with lexan.

But then I relate the experience of a 1:1 car to RC. When a normal 1:1 car is driven from slow to very high speed, the car seems to get lighter. Since the chassis of 1:1 car is all "covered", then the air flow travelling under the car could have contributed to the lifting effects of the car. This I believe most people try to resolve by putting spoiler(wings) and lower their ride height, so less wind and less lifting effects from underneath.(and more wind to push the back down)
ANyway, has anyone notice if the chassis of a real nascar is cut up with holes for what ever reason? Just wondering

[KronicRacer]

well theres the problem theres not many shells that have spoilers on it like an opel astra or lemans series car. the solution is to put the lexan. underneath the car to avoid the lift. your gonna sacifice coolin the motor. if its plumbed like a real race car there should be no problem with cooling. then again like its been said b4 how many of us really race at the pro level to even worry about this sort of dilemma. but you did mention something with all the crap that does get into the cars with the swiss cheese chassis. lexan chassis sheild is the way to go. that and youll have the better areo you need.

the best way to go alltogether is with the stock chassis.

[Nuke]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
You'll have to install it with some wire ties or double sided tape. Yeah that's Tower for ya they take awhile to get things. Nitrohouse has the Ofna box for the same price as Tower just an option mind you.
TC3

I have the AE box and mounted my 12v Battery just like this. Drill 4 holes in the bottom and your set!! Tower has the best price on that bad boy too, and don't forget the $10 off $50 coupon code "010K4"

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=129094&highlight=NTC3

Enjoy!

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I'm looking for a nice small failsafe. The one have is the giant yellow box. If for nothing other than cosmetics, I'm looking to get a new one.

I was looking at the "OFNA Failsafe part # 91002" in NitroHouse.com, as I wrote this.

Just curious if anyone has anything positive or negative to say about it.

For reference, what are y'all using?

[speedydave]

Hey X-Garage, what chassis is that? How is it compared to the AE? Looks nice!

Wyle E: I don't use a failsafe, I just make sure my RX pack is always charged. I also use a TRS(throttle return spring), and I have an FM radio, which doesn't hurt, but isn't necessary.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Guess I confused someone about Ofna box needing the wire ties. I was talking about the AE box that needed to be modded for the 12 volt. The Ofna has mounting for a 12 volt included.

Wyle
A few of the guys here run the Ofna failsafe and like it. Still running a TRS myself but the micro failsafe is on the list of my next order. I like having both just in case.
TC3

[Clan O'Riley]

thanx for the code Nuke!

[Pro3/nmt105]

How do you hook up a TRS with a slide carb and attach it directly to the carb ballstud? I seems like it would scrape either the carb body or ruber dust boot if had the spring attach to the engine mount on the other side. Any ideas?

[nad138]

Pro3, instead of using the spring, try the ones currently at ebay. I think it's a different type of rubber band but can handle heat and chemicals. Or you can try that band that girls use for tying their hair (comes in box and contains plenty...multi colored too for only $2:).

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by waileun

ANyway, has anyone notice if the chassis of a real nascar is cut up with holes for what ever reason? Just wondering

reason for the look on the underchassis for nascar is...... nascar is not letting the cars race at their full potential. and its for safty mostly. (and part of it is) they dont want their drivers going over 200mph like they did in the 80's in the superspeedways. why do you think they are always implementing new areo packages. its to slow the cars down, not to speed then up.

[HauntedMyst]

Ok you engineers, I am confused by the underchassis thing. On most touring cars, they have little "clean" under body flow of air. The cut outs actually create a lot of turbulence. The only down force other then gravity is created by the 3 main air flow points on the body: the nose, the windshield and the spoiler. With a flat bottom car like the NTC3, running an aerodynamic body sans the spoiler would actually create lift since the body/flat chassis combination would be shaped like a wing. In theory, wouldn't we want the reverse wing effect and have the body/chassis combo both create down force? My experiance with bodies is that R/C GTP bodies actually function the best, primarily because of the huge down force the sharp nose and big spoiler create. For T/C bodies, the CLK GTR has worked best because its so low (letting little air under the car and easily letting air flow over the body itself), and aerodynamic.

[nitrohead3000]

Haunted Mist- I agree with you but if both the body and the chassis were designed to generate downforce you might end up with too much down force causing the chassis to bottom out unexpectantly at high speeds making the car hard to control In general if you look at our cars from the side their shape sort of looks like a wing on wheels which is why I think our cars become unstable at high speeds and it is because of rear wings, spoilers and the bodies sitting low that are cars dont take off at high speeds.

[KronicRacer]

anyone up for wind tunnel testing...:D ;)

[pumpkinfish]

Hey guys I just got back from my first race with my RTR NTC3. It was exciting and I placed 7th. It was very hot and humid today and I didn't get a chance to tune for the first qual heat so I kept stalling (that teachs me to show up late!). For the 2nd and 3rd qual heats I did good as my foam tires really hooked up.

The track was set up like a flat tri-oval track, something like Pocono Speedway. It is out in the parking lot of the hobby store and has a long front sraight. My question is what body would you reccomend for a track setup like this? I was using the Protoform Honda Accord Sedan and I was all right. I was wondering if using one of Protoforms Oval Racing Nascar bodies would be better since they seem to be setup for tracks of this nature. Would this body even fit my NTC3 properly?

Also, what gears should I use with my 2 speed? I can't afford a new engine right now (too much spent on my Savage .26) so I need to do what I can with gears to help the stock engine. Also should I invest in the rear sway bars and Associated Team RPM pipe?

I have changed the rx to my JR XS-3 so the radio is good. I just need some little things that will help.

[frank13]

hey i am from phila area also , where did you race today ,, just curious , and are you gonna race in jersey , at alpine this weekend ,

frank13

feel free to im me at fcsntjg77

[fastharry]

Originally posted by frank13
hey i am from phila area also , where did you race today ,, just curious , and are you gonna race in jersey , at alpine this weekend ,

frank13

feel free to im me at fcsntjg77

Edison next week,Frank...

[tamiyajoe]

ok, about this whole chassis/aerodynamic thing, here is a question.

if i get a ticker/stiffer/lighter/CUT UP chassis, couldnt i just put a sheet (universal) of chassis protector on it and trim it to the chassis, wouldnt that sole the drag problem?

[pumpkinfish]

Frank, I raced at HobbyTown in Allentown. They race in the parking lot on Saturdays from approx 11:00 am to 4:00pm. Great group of guys, some of the best I have run with. It is only $5 to run one class.

[waileun]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
ok, about this whole chassis/aerodynamic thing, here is a question.

if i get a ticker/stiffer/lighter/CUT UP chassis, couldnt i just put a sheet (universal) of chassis protector on it and trim it to the chassis, wouldnt that sole the drag problem?

Sound logical doesn't it? Ok, let's put another thing into the equation: Heat dissipation of the engine... If you do not want to spoil the aerodynamic of the body shell, it goes to say that you shouldn't cut a hole in the wind screen right? So, no hole for refilling?
And in the rear, if we cut a hole for the engine to 'breathe' or cool off, then wouldn't the hole reduces the amount of vacuum in behind the rear wind screen and that reduces the functionality of the spoiler? hmmm...

[Nexus]

NTC3 racers...


according to AE these are the recommended gear rations to maintain the correct gear mesh:

20/24 with 52/48
21/25 with 52/48
22/26 with 52/48
23/27 with 52/48

which one of those is the stock gearing?

and you can go 1st gear lower and 2nd gear higher?

i'm talking pinion change only....examply...what if i want to lower 1st gear for a bit more punch but go up in 2nd gear for a bit more top end....

i don't want to increase both 1st and 2nd gear...just wondering if what i'm asking is possible.

[kreidel1]

waileun,

After seeing all the Serpents and Mugens today with there narrow and cut-out chassis I am not sure that the having a couple cut-outs on a NTC3 is so terrible. And as for the cut-outs on both front and rear windsheilds on these cars it does make for a good question. I cant imagine at the lower speed our cars travel at if it is as important. I understand body designs and rear spoilers play there role but it is hard to understand what this all means in the long run. Makes me wonder about alot of things....like is there a Supernatural force controlling my aerodynamic flow or are our are cars all alone on the track of life making there way through the turns and straightaways?

[Walt]

Originally posted by X-garage
Are you crazy? Aerodynamic of the car has less than 5% to do with the bottom...more than 90% of aerodynamic is on the top of the car

I'm not going to call you crazy or anything else, but if the bottom is no big deal, then why do F1 teams (where they are allowed to alter the bottom), keep the bottom of their cars TOP SECRET for as long as they can? Can you please post your source for the 5% number?

[RCTime]

I just finished building my NTC3, (my first RC in about 10 yrs), and I think I did a good job, excluding maybe overtightening a few screws. Can someone tell me why the hell they use those little Allen head screws? I mean, I stripped out a couple of heads after the first few turns! Very frustrating. Anyway, I was wondering which of the stock parts are most likely to break so I can buy replacements for them up front. I'm already gonna buy an assortment of new screws, I can't imagine those will tolerate getting put in and out more than a few times. . . What else do I need?

[Walt]

Winston Cup teams aren't allowed to do much with the bottom of their cars (like someone else mentioned), but what they can do is keep the bottom as flat and smooth as possible, so that's what they do.

Like others said, the bottom does matter, how much, I don't know, and I don't think anyone really knows. A wind tunnel test would be sweet, but wind tunnel time is expensive, and it's not a trivial mater to build one either. Until we have wind tunnel data, we'll just have to keep on guessing.

Getting the lighter chassis and then putting lexan over it to make it smooth sounds like a good idea to me. As for the hole in the windshield for cooling, obviously that hole is hurting performance, but it's necessary. The electric guys sure aren't putting a hole in their windshield.

Fun discussion guys.

[fastharry]

did you strip the heads,or the plastic(or composite) material?...

[HauntedMyst]

I need some help. The batteries in my starter box are dying. It's the AE starter box and I want to replace it with a 12v. What brand/model are you guys putting in yours?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Walt
Winston Cup teams aren't allowed to do much with the bottom of their cars (like someone else mentioned), but what they can do is keep the bottom as flat and smooth as possible, so that's what they do.

Like others said, the bottom does matter, how much, I don't know, and I don't think anyone really knows. A wind tunnel test would be sweet, but wind tunnel time is expensive, and it's not a trivial mater to build one either. Until we have wind tunnel data, we'll just have to keep on guessing.

Getting the lighter chassis and then putting lexan over it to make it smooth sounds like a good idea to me. As for the hole in the windshield for cooling, obviously that hole is hurting performance, but it's necessary. The electric guys sure aren't putting a hole in their windshield.

Fun discussion guys.

in regard to the windsheild holes what if.... the car could be vented like a race car, with side scoop ducts, roof ducts ect. that in theory would take care of the front windsheild problem. since the carburator points to the rear window. it would not be a problem openin up the rear to have it suck in air from back there. the only thing is since there are many bodies the perfect scoop/vent location would be different for every car. and the expense of testing multiple shells would be astronomical(again all in theory).

now look at the lotus turbo espirte(spelling) from few years ago. if the underchassis spoiler diffuser if you had the car on a lift all you can see is a smooth underside that has to be removed to work on th car. if the underside diffuser was damaged, the cooling for the turbo system would be affected. this car was set up to suck in air from the bottom of the car to cool the turbo system... so why cant somethinglike that be implemented with the nitros.

with areo dynamics just think rain drops/light bulbs/ footballs anything round, anything round with a pointed tail. thats what gonna cut throught the air most effectively with least wind resistance.:)

[nitrohead3000]

HEY FELLOWS- I just succeeded putting a sirio 18 in my nitro tc3 it was almost a drop in ! And boy is it fast !! This is great for parking lot bashing and drag racing but when I want to enter a roar race all I have to do is remove 4 screws put my 12 size engine back in and go race!!

[RCTime]

Originally posted by fastharry
did you strip the heads,or the plastic(or composite) material?...

A couple of both. The screws seem to still have some bite even in the holes I "stripped", you know what I mean it's not like metal. But I also tore up the heads on a couple of screws without them even being tightened all the way. Those Allen heads are just way too fragile. Anyway, suggestions on parts anyone?

[Walt]

Originally posted by RCTime
I just finished building my NTC3, (my first RC in about 10 yrs), and I think I did a good job, excluding maybe overtightening a few screws. Can someone tell me why the hell they use those little Allen head screws? I mean, I stripped out a couple of heads after the first few turns! Very frustrating. Anyway, I was wondering which of the stock parts are most likely to break so I can buy replacements for them up front. I'm already gonna buy an assortment of new screws, I can't imagine those will tolerate getting put in and out more than a few times. . . What else do I need?

People on this forum, as well as Associated, will tell you that they have never, ever heard of anyone having a problem with their screws. I've started this topic of discussion once before and got rebuked by people swearing up and down that the 4-40 machine screws with tiny little allen heads work just fine as self-threading screws into plastic on the AE kits.

Here's what you have to do (in my opinion): First, replace as many of the AE screws as possible with screws that are actually designed to thread into plastic. I used HPI screws (called 'TP' screws by HPI to designate that they are self-threading screws), but I'm sure there are many other brands that would work fine. I think it was less than $15 to replace nearly every incorrectly designed AE screw with appropriate HPI-style self threading plastic screws (not made of plastic, but designed to thread into plastic).

Second, call up Associated or write them an e-mail or whatever and tell them that their choice of screws is horrible! They'll never start properly specifying screws for their kits until more people complain (you'd think that just sitting down with a competent engineer would be enough, but that doesn't seem to be working).

It's amazing to me how they can get so much right on their cars in terms of design, and then specify machine screws as self threaders into plastic... it just doesn't make any sense. Proper screw selection is one of the first things you learn as a design engineer, and it's really not that difficult. Heck, they can just ask their screw supplier for advice and I'm sure they'd have the correct screws specified within a couple of days, if it even took that long.

End rant.... good luck with your NTC3... with the exception of the screws, I love mine so far.

[IMIURU]

A long time ago, AE used good quality screws that would never strip, ever, no matter what the quality of tools you were using. The last few kits I have bought over the last few years, it just seems that the steel is just not up to par to put any stress onto them. I have seen this happen over time. Maybe they are just trying to save a few bucks, or they just don't care that people strip them out, then ask "are you using our $25ea allen drivers", that will solve all your problems with stripping screws. They can't make money on screws but they can sure make a lot selling those overpriced allen drivers.
I am a big AE fan, and have never had to use good tools until lately, but I guess only 5-10% of all kits end up racing and in the hands of people who give a hoot and would know better. The other 90% probably do not even realize that there is something better out there and never complain. Maybe that is why AE does not see a problem with using these cheap things.

[KronicRacer]

racers edge stainless steel screw kits are a good replacement if you cant find the hpi screws. that and check out this link www.benderstore.com they have screw kits available for the ntc3 also.

[codeman]

Nice replies about the aerodynamics; they have some pretty cool write ups on www.myTsn.com, worth a read for those interested in that type of junk :P hehe

Just a question, what foam tyres do you guys reccomend? Are there tires which will accomodate the stock wheel nuts without having to thread them in backwards?

Also, would it be worth it to rip off my Mugen ball connectors for the rear toe links?

Great kit; the only thing it seems to need are the extra ball bearings, and perhaps some shallower wheel nuts with aluminum wheel hexes -I've heard mixed feelings between the stock plastic hexes and aluminum- ( havn't been able to pick any up yet ) .. also, the stock exhaust .. do you guys figure it would be better to upgrade that? I've been looking at the RD logics and OFNA one pice pipes; and advantage performance wise?

[Distro]

You can't use any pipe on a re engine with the ntc3 except for the AE pipes, because of the design.. foam tires i'd use fast tires (mugen brand) 40 shore 26mm fronts and 30mm rears. I have been using the alumium hexes for awhile, they hold up better then the plastic ones but are alot tougher on the pins.

[Clan O'Riley]

maybe you guys can help. i am selling my dominator to either buy a sportmaxx or get my ntc3 running. i cant decide. i dont race i just drive my car around in my driveway and in the road. it gets kind of boring after a while. my yard is big so i have plenty of room to drive a s-maxx. please help!:(

[HauntedMyst]

Clan,

You already have the answer I think. I love my NTC3 and run just on road, but my yard is the size of a McNugget box. I think you'd have a lot more fun with a sport Maxx or some other off road in your yard then just running your NTC3 in the street. Why sell the Dominator though? It should be great for back yard running.

[kiatay65]

HAS ANYBODY EVER FRIED THE MOTOR IN THE AE STARTER BOX? I JUST FRIED MINE TONIGHT TRYING TO BREAK IN AN MT12 IN MY NTC3.

[DualBL]

d

[waileun]

Originally posted by Walt
People on this forum, as well as Associated, will tell you that they have never, ever heard of anyone having a problem with their screws. I've started this topic of discussion once before and got rebuked by people swearing up and down that the 4-40 machine screws with tiny little allen heads work just fine as self-threading screws into plastic on the AE kits.
.....

End rant.... good luck with your NTC3... with the exception of the screws, I love mine so far.

I have the same experience too. The screws are too soft to be used as self taping screws. For my kit, I even have the allen key hole that is off center. Half way building my kit, I strip a couple of screws and I have to hunt around for imperial size screws locally.
Eventually I decided to change all my screws to stainless steel. My advice to you is that if you are tight on cash, at least change those screws that are used on the underside of the chassis, especially the one tightening the engine mount from the underneath.

[waileun]

Originally posted by kiatay65
HAS ANYBODY EVER FRIED THE MOTOR IN THE AE STARTER BOX? I JUST FRIED MINE TONIGHT TRYING TO BREAK IN AN MT12 IN MY NTC3.
You may have short circuited your motor, or your connections are loose.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Distro
You can't use any pipe on a re engine with the ntc3 except for the AE pipes, because of the design.. foam tires i'd use fast tires (mugen brand) 40 shore 26mm fronts and 30mm rears. I have been using the alumium hexes for awhile, they hold up better then the plastic ones but are alot tougher on the pins.

You can try the RD logic pipe design for NTC3.

[waileun]

Originally posted by codeman
Nice replies about the aerodynamics; they have some pretty cool write ups on www.myTsn.com, worth a read for those interested in that type of junk :P hehe

......
also, the stock exhaust .. do you guys figure it would be better to upgrade that? I've been looking at the RD logics and OFNA one pice pipes; and advantage performance wise?

RD logic or OFNA? looks the same other than for the brand name

[Clan O'Riley]

hauntedmyst- my dominator for the past few months has done nothing but break. every time i go out to drive it something breaks. that isnt a joke either. im only 16, i have a job but not enough to keep up with the repair bill. my ntc3 never broke on me last summer thats why im thinking of just running that. but i still like off road. i seem to have bad luck with every off road car i buy. i just want to be sure that the sportmaxx is the truck for me before i buy one or if someone wants to trade a used dominator for a new sportmaxx that would be alright.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Walt
I'm not going to call you crazy or anything else, but if the bottom is no big deal, then why do F1 teams (where they are allowed to alter the bottom), keep the bottom of their cars TOP SECRET for as long as they can? Can you please post your source for the 5% number?

To support Walt's idea of aerodynamic has A LOT TO DO at the bottom of the chassis...............remember the Mercedes Benz 24 hour Leman several years ago (may be 5 or so) - the silver arrows world champion team? All 3 of their Mercedes were forced to PULL out the race not because of the mechanical failure, it was the team decision because they have the unexpected underbody aerodynamic air flow ERROR and cause 2 of their top driver flipped in the air when driving 150 mph plus........2 cars flipped at the same spot and almost a lap after each other, the 3rd car was called to SLOW DOWN and decided to give up the race due to the safety for the driver and the rest of the racers.

Three months later, they are foreced to release their SECRET underbody design to the race orgainization and they admitted they were over engineering the car's underside air flow channel and it suppose to work perfect except one small problem.......they did not have enough TEST with the body at that specific track, and that DOWNHILL straight away actually ended up causing the flip and it is kinda like the airplant take off platform.

Aerodynamic has a lot to do on the bottom, especially you have a lot of DOWNFORCE up above, how can you prevent those downforce not to OVER POWERING to the chassis and made the car's chassis rubbing the ground all the time.......

However, quite frankly, RC car (NTC3) is not even close should talk about those body and chassis aerodyanmic, cause the whole TOP and BOTTOM are not even sealed or closed like rear car......and it is a joke to put that in the wind tunnel, cause you won't see any thing or you will have wind flew by in 100 differents channel........

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I need some help. The batteries in my starter box are dying. It's the AE starter box and I want to replace it with a 12v. What brand/model are you guys putting in yours?

Did I just shown you my starter box last SAT...? The gell cell is from Tower, I believe it is a Hobbico gel cell and it come with a overnight charger......1 charge should last you a whole month of weekend racing....

12V gel cell that fits NTC3 AE starter box (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL370&P=7)

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hcap0800.jpg

Gel Cell charger (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJC38&P=7)

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/towp1000.jpg

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
To support Walt's idea of aerodynamic has A LOT TO DO at the bottom of the chassis......


......it is kinda like the airplant take off platform.

Aerodynamic has a lot to do on the bottom, especially you have a lot of DOWNFORCE up above, how can you prevent those downforce not to OVER POWERING to the chassis and made the car's chassis rubbing the ground all the time.......

However, quite frankly, RC car (NTC3) is not even close should talk about those body and chassis aerodyanmic, cause the whole TOP and BOTTOM are not even sealed or closed like rear car......and it is a joke to put that in the wind tunnel, cause you won't see any thing or you will have wind flew by in 100 differents channel........

The up force from under the chassis is precisely why a 1:1 car feels lighter when you travel at high speed.(Of course you may not feel it with a variable power steering)


All in all, Rookie and Walts hit on the point on the under chassis wind effect.
( if there is no under chassis up lift force, the car will feel heavier and heavier when you speed up. In reality this is not true and is totally opposite)

[KronicRacer]

it has to be a perfect balance, with the nitros the spoiler configuration would have to b changed if the underchassis spoiler created too much downforce. if not like u guys said. u bottom out. it would be a complete overhaul that would take time, alot of patience and equipment that most of us dont have. it was also like i mentioned earlier its not worth on our level even though it is a very interesting subject that could b possible...

[Rookie Solara]

In the perfect world, everything will be PERFECT, however, in this world......try to be PERFEST cost a lot of time and money.

The 24 hour Leman is a very good example for high end race car design....so does F1 and INDY car, take a close look at their rear underside wind channel FINS....BALANCE is the key, the upforce and downforce must be BALANCE (balance does not necessary means EQAUL AMOUNT)......too much down force, car won't move or turn, waste lots of gas and slow.........too much up force, car will simply TAKE OFF (like Merc. in 24)

To develope something like that on RC, try to find the money for R&D first, then figure out will ppl spend $5G to buy a high end RC just for fun........

We are still in the long way to see a close to perfect RC car.

I remembered on SNRS4 forum, someone did a full carbon fiber covered underside chassis with rear wind channel fins design like F1 and test it at the FORD SVT special vehicle wind tunnel (he has those multi-milllions computer,equipment and test facility cause he is one the design of the Ford Lighting/Focus SVT team at FORD)....he posted all the data and NO ONE actually knows what those charts are above....all I can see are lots of red, green, yellow line going up and down that representing the combination effect of downforce and upforce.........but his final notes about that project is........upforce are easier to accomplish, however, downforce and the RC car body are something that is impossible to achieve, cause to make a real aerodynamic body that works with that custom chassis, he need to fabric a full carbon fiber body with scoop and other items.......without that kind of a body, the data are useless and not accurate.

All in all, just enjoy the RC car, it is a fun stuff, not a FULL TIME JOB nor a PHD degree subject.

[treky11]

I just put in the Kfactory tank. Looks great and fits well BUT it seems to not suck up the fuel to well when there is only a bit left in the tank. Seems the fuel sloshes around away from the pickup under acceleration and hard turns and the engine can lean a bit (uh-oh Veteq flashback).

I think that since the tank is so much longer that the last 10-22 cc's are spread out over much more surface area compared to the stock tank.

Anyone else notice the problem?

and yes I checked everything and have no airl leaks and my pressure line is long enough.

[nitrohead3000]

Treky11- If you look at the bottom of your new k-factory fuel tank you will notice a raised bubble like area , you can see your fuel pickup!! However if you sit your tank on a level surface you will see it is slanted towards the front because of this bubble. If you drill a hole in your chassis directly under the bubble, this should remedy the problem

[KronicRacer]

rookie:

that was very well put

[fastharry]

Originally posted by nitrohead3000
Treky11- If you look at the bottom of your new k-factory fuel tank you will notice a raised bubble like area , you can see your fuel pickup!! However if you sit your tank on a level surface you will see it is slanted towards the front because of this bubble. If you drill a hole in your chassis directly under the bubble, this should remedy the problem



the tc3 has the hole for the pull starter already there....the bubble sits below the chassis surface......

nitro head,what type of tc3 chassis are you running?...

[nitrohead3000]

Fast Harry- OOPPs!! Sorry you are right ! I just recieved mine today and had not mounted it.

[nitrohead3000]

Fast Harry, This tank fit on my old stock nitro tc-3 chassis but it does not fit on my new after market chassis. So if you have the original kit chassis plate it should fit without modification but if you have a after market chassis you need to check to make sure it fits.

[fastharry]

what Treky 11 should do is mount 2 orings under the front,,this will tilt the tank at a slight angle back..


this will help him go even faster than he is already..

[celly]

Hey, where are you guys ordering your kfactory parts from?

[nitrohead3000]

Celly- I live on the east coast so I have been ordering my k-factory stuff from trinity.

[celly]

Nitrohead,

Yeah, after about 10 mins of posting I found the kfactory stuff on their site..

My question is now, has anyone ever used "The Shark" pipe from H.A.R.D?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by celly
Hey, where are you guys ordering your kfactory parts from?

horizon and tower hobbys also carry it.

[celly]

Originally posted by fastharry
horizon and tower hobbys also carry it.

I looked on tower an didn't see anything. I'll check again..

I personally try to stay away from Horizon Hobby. I really have had nothing but bad expierences from them. They really don't care about Joe Rc'r, instead they'd rather just deal with Hobby stores direct... I guess I can't blame them, but if your customer service sucks becuase you don't like the small fry, then get rid of your store front... right?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by celly
I looked on tower an didn't see anything. I'll check again..

I personally try to stay away from Horizon Hobby. I really have had nothing but bad expierences from them. They really don't care about Joe Rc'r, instead they'd rather just deal with Hobby stores direct... I guess I can't blame them, but if your customer service sucks becuase you don't like the small fry, then get rid of your store front... right?

dude no worries i got all my stuff from here:

http://shop.the-border.nl/

they got alot of k factory parts and they ship quick. the only downside is the currency is in euros.

check this one out also they also carry k factory.
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/

good luck

im on the east coast also but im ordering from europe and china:p :D

[celly]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
dude no worries i got all my stuff from here:

http://shop.the-border.nl/

they got alot of k factory parts and they ship quick. the only downside is the currency is in euros. good luck

im on the east coast also but im ordering from europe:p :D

Hmmm, should have ordered when the euro was .80 / 1 , sucks now that it is almost 1.20 / 1 ... Thanks for the link!!

[KronicRacer]

i kno, that sucks about the euro being higher than the dollar... in that case order from china..... but then you have that dang 2 week standard mail wait... unless youre lucky and have deep pockets that can pay express..... theres always sumthing isnt there:rolleyes:

[Wallis Racing]

Hey guys,
First off, ill apologise for the noobish questions as im an off road guy...;)

Ok, im interested in getting a TC car to street bash(will prolly NEVER see a real track) and seeing as i already have a GT, i figured i'd look at the NTC3 first.
if i get a TC, it will be scoreing the RB X12 out of my GT, so first i want to know if the stock NTC3 will be able to handle this powerplant. i know the stock GT tranny gears would give up every 20 odd tanks so i had to get RRP gears all over, and with a miss-adjusted diff, the CVD'd would also give up. but im thinking that the NTC3 being 4WD, it should be able to handle the power better, seeing as the HP will be divided between 4 wheels instead of 2. but can anyone tell me for sure? i think the RB X12 is unofficially rated at 1.5hp @ 39k RPM.

Second, a mate of mine has a brushless TC3 and has just sold it because it was too fragile. he was constantly breaking shock towers from side swiping curbs. he wasnt hitting them hard of fast, yet the rear tower kept giving way. so im wondering if this is the same on the NTC3, because i will be driving harder and crashing harder then my mate, so i wanna know if i should just order a few hop-ups from the word go, like alloy towers? any comments?:confused:

Also, My mate managed to bend/twist the center drive shaft, and the NTC3 has the same drive shaft, should i be prepared for this to happen to me?:rolleyes:

I think thats all for now, thanks in advance...

anyways,
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[save1992]

how does the ofna ld3 compare to the ntc3

[Maverick Racer]

The RB X-12 is a fast motor but by no means is a "diff ripper" type motor, for the NTC3 that is. The RB only pulls about 1.15 hp. None of the "off the shelf" motors will do any damage to the drive train of the NTC3. The first thing that I have ever had to go were the 2 speed parts and the CVD's. But were running a little different motors, so I doubt there will be a problem.

Go to e-bay and search for "The Fix" that will take care of your shock tower problems.

The NTC3 uses a compleatly different drive shaft then the electric TC3. It wont twist.

Buy the NTC3 and have a good time.
:)

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys im haveing a really big problem. My car is just not hooking up at all. Ive been running rubber tires and now that the track is in decent shape again im going to be running foams, but they are just not working right now. All the other guys in my class are running foams and they are kicking my butt. (the guys are running belt cars)

The track is a medium traction, prepared parking lot that is fairly technical. If you guys could share your setups that would be awsome!

If i cant get this car working then i hate to say it but i might have to look for another car. So i hope i can get my car working again.

Thanks,
Brian~

[johnnybp7]

Originally posted by nitroguy2001
hey guys im haveing a really big problem. My car is just not hooking up at all. Ive been running rubber tires and now that the track is in decent shape again im going to be running foams, but they are just not working right now. All the other guys in my class are running foams and they are kicking my butt. (the guys are running belt cars)

The track is a medium traction, prepared parking lot that is fairly technical. If you guys could share your setups that would be awsome!

If i cant get this car working then i hate to say it but i might have to look for another car. So i hope i can get my car working again.

Thanks,
Brian~

Here is my car set up:
Foam Tires: 40 shore front and back
Shock Oil: 40wt front and back
Spring: Purple Front, Copper Back
Ride Hight: 5.5mm front and back
Droop: 4 front and back

Hope this helps
Brian P.

[Maverick Racer]

Where is your car loose? Going in coming out, in the middle???

Jaco Nitro Shoes 40's front and rear
Purple Springs in the front Reds in the rear
60 wt oil in the front, 40 wt oil in the rear with #2 pistons all around
2 degrees of camber front and rear.
1.5 degrees of toe in, in the back and 0 in the front
Shocks are in the Outter hole in the tower up front and the Middle Hole in the back
Upper arms are in the Outter holes all the way around
Front and rear sway bars, std type not the blade

2 degrees of anti squat in the rear of the car to help it hook up on power.

[nitroguy2001]

its loose coming out of the corners. the front diff is pretty tight so it must be suspension. I was thinking about running a solid front diff. anyone doing this?

thanks for all your help

[pep88]

Originally posted by nitroguy2001
its loose coming out of the corners. the front diff is pretty tight so it must be suspension. I was thinking about running a solid front diff. anyone doing this?

thanks for all your help

I had my first really good run of the year today, and it was mostly due to diff and throttle tweaking. I had a problem of the back end snapping loose on corner entry. My throttle was stickin open a little and it was causing me to drive in too deep. Also my rear diff was a full turn out from closed. Your not supposed to run it any looser than 3/4 turn out so that was causing the loose condition. Im running 1/4 out in the front and back, got my throttle fixed, and the thing is stickin.

Not quite the same problem you have but, if the rear is coming around Id tighten up the rear diff and check your not driving in too deep. Id also soften the shocks up a bit and add a little camber (1-2 degrees).

:D
Hope it helps

[Raydee]

Hey guys I am running the older reverse flow tank on my NTC3 and I have never had any fuel problems like others have. Yesterday I noticed that after I fill up my tank and close the lid the fuel filled into the pressure line quite a bit and when i first start the engine a bunch of fuel blows out of the pipe. If I change to the newer style tank with the pressure tap in the lid will this go away?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by pep88
I had my first really good run of the year today, and it was mostly due to diff and throttle tweaking. I had a problem of the back end snapping loose on corner entry. My throttle was stickin open a little and it was causing me to drive in too deep. Also my rear diff was a full turn out from closed. Your not supposed to run it any looser than 3/4 turn out so that was causing the loose condition. Im running 1/4 out in the front and back, got my throttle fixed, and the thing is stickin.

Not quite the same problem you have but, if the rear is coming around Id tighten up the rear diff and check your not driving in too deep. Id also soften the shocks up a bit and add a little camber (1-2 degrees).

:D
Hope it helps

Tightening the rear diff adds to steering..

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Raydee
Hey guys I am running the older reverse flow tank on my NTC3 and I have never had any fuel problems like others have. Yesterday I noticed that after I fill up my tank and close the lid the fuel filled into the pressure line quite a bit and when i first start the engine a bunch of fuel blows out of the pipe. If I change to the newer style tank with the pressure tap in the lid will this go away?
Yes, I think that If you put your finger over the pipe stinger when you fill it up this wont happen, I have the tank on my gt and if you have the pressure line coiled it almost never gets into the pipe.

[Raydee]

Well I think i will try a new tank and see if it makes a difference. Back when the NTC3 first came out and was having the fuel system problems a friend of mine called AE and was told that they never had that problem and that his car was cursed with VOODOO!! I just thought that was funny.

Right now I am about to order some Jaco nitro shoes for my NTC3 and I was just wondering what would be good on my car? I want to get 26mm in the front and 30mm in the back but I am not sure what shores to get? Right now I am running 40 in the front and 35 in the rear but since the rear's will now be 30mm should I get 40 shore all around?

[save1992]

i'm getting a ntc3 what should i do now i read where it has a restricter plate on it have any of you taken this off if so did you have an increase in speed i brought the 2speed trans what else should i do:D :D

[TC3Kamikaze]

Raydee
Sounds like a good game plan. On the track here 40/35 worked best but another track liked 40 at all four corners. It might be wise to have a few sets to see what will work for ya. Of course if money comes into play try just the 40 all around.
save1992
I'd upgrade to the steering bearings they are worth it in the long run. It won't be to big a difference but every bit helps. The two speed is wise choice just follow the instructions. It took me a while before I got it set right.
If you guys want a nice little powerplant try the Sirio. I'm really impressed with mine especially since it didn't break my wallet. :)
TC3

[speedydave]

I've got a SE NTC3 kit, which is currently bone-stock, except for The Fix, front and rear. Excluding engine/pipe/manifold, what hopups would you recommend(and why?) for this thing? I'd like to spend less than $100 on all the hopups(I'm not even sure how much everything I'll need is, or how much I really need). I don't think I'll be needing a one-way(unless Maverick can kick in some info on this subject for me). Thanks!

[tamiyajoe]

I've got a SE NTC3 kit, which is currently bone-stock, except for The Fix, front and rear. Excluding engine/pipe/manifold, what hopups would you recommend(and why?) for this thing? I'd like to spend less than $100 on all the hopups(I'm not even sure how much everything I'll need is, or how much I really need). I don't think I'll be needing a one-way(unless Maverick can kick in some info on this subject for me). Thanks!


go with some new gears to tinker with, lightwheight clutchbell, lightweght 2 speed (thingy) and maybe a lightweght 2 speed clutchbell. or you can go for a graphite (C/F) radio tray. <--go with the associated one, not only a perfect fit but you can still remove it with 6 screws, those aftermarket ones need half the car taken aprt to take off the tray. also go with an aluminum bulkhead (bearing support thing) and brake block. some cheep stuff: put bearings in the brake lever and steering (associated bearings are expensive, get the right specs and go with duratrax). also, the servo saver, rplace that spring with a sprith from an rc10gt clutch spring for better steering. finally, go to ebay, and type in "the fix tc3" and get that, TRUST ME!

now, obviously, all of that is not in your budget, but get that stuff and youll be very competative at your track

[tamiyajoe]

oooo look what i found! i didnt kno they made one in the aftermarket. it a blue aluminum lightweight... flywheel. its make by megatech, its on tower.

here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEVG6&P=7)

[fastharry]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
go with some new gears to tinker with, lightwheight clutchbell, lightweght 2 speed (thingy) and maybe a lightweght 2 speed clutchbell. or you can go for a graphite (C/F) radio tray. <--go with the associated one, not only a perfect fit but you can still remove it with 6 screws, those aftermarket ones need half the car taken aprt to take off the tray. also go with an aluminum bulkhead (bearing support thing) and brake block. some cheep stuff: put bearings in the brake lever and steering (associated bearings are expensive, get the right specs and go with duratrax). also, the servo saver, rplace that spring with a sprith from an rc10gt clutch spring for better steering. finally, go to ebay, and type in "the fix tc3" and get that, TRUST ME!

now, obviously, all of that is not in your budget, but get that stuff and youll be very competative at your track




the clutch spring from a GT won't fit..the part # is 6587..its the spring from the slipper assembly..both springs are now included in the kits..

Duratrax,or anybody else, does not make the thin bearings for the steering rack..just get the associated.they're only 10 bucks..

teh only thing you need after that is "the Fix"..which prevents the shock tower from loosening fro repeated hits to the boards..

if you end up racing the car,post here and I'll tell you what else..

[x2x]

http://www.xfortress.net/ntc3.php

check out my tmaxx as well

http://www.xfortress.net/Tmaxx.php

Tell me what u think
xIIx

[x2x]

n/a

[save1992]

where can i get the fix other than ebay also can i make one myself

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by save1992
where can i get the fix other than ebay also can i make one myself

You can order direct from the seller...............or you can make one yourself (only if you know how and have the $40,000 milling machine to mill the $1 parts)

Get that from the ebay....well worth $25.00

[tamiyajoe]

Originally posted by fastharry
the clutch spring from a GT won't fit..the part # is 6587..its the spring from the slipper assembly..both springs are now included in the kits..



thats wat i meant, my bad

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
You can order direct from the seller...............or you can make one yourself (only if you know how and have the $40,000 milling machine to mill the $1 parts)

Get that from the ebay....well worth $25.00

More like a $200,000-300,000, CNC machine. A $40,000 two axis machine wont get you very far.

Buy the 2 $12 parts, as rookie said, it is well worth it.

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by nitroguy2001
its loose coming out of the corners. the front diff is pretty tight so it must be suspension. I was thinking about running a solid front diff. anyone doing this?

thanks for all your help

Stiffer front springs
Softer Rear Spring
More Castor
More Rear Camber
Put a sway bar up front
Anti-Squat 1-2 degrees

The list can go on...

[tamiyajoe]

ihave the gt slipper spring in my servo saver, wat should it be set at? should i use the stock shim and stock settings?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
More like a $200,000-300,000, CNC machine. A $40,000 two axis machine wont get you very far.


Wow....200G, that is not what I am expecting...? So here is the math goes...

$25 (the fix for 4) or $200G-300G machine and do your own FIX...hmmm, which one is cheaper?

Or this way.....(which always work for me), spend 25 cent to a buck to feed the parking meter or a $45 Chicago parking ticket that can save you a buck.

Do the math....

[kreidel1]

Personally I would buy the inmill....that way after I made " the fix" for my car I could make some trick titanium toothpicks and sell them on Ebay for $1 a piece and once I sold 450000 I would break even and then I would own a $200000 machine that could make another "fix" if I ever bent or broke one. See where I am going with it?

[KronicRacer]

lol titanium tooth picks:D where can i get one?;)

[pikture]

Originally posted by speedydave
Anyone run an Orion Wasp in their car? I'm curious as to how easy to tune the new Picco carbs are(I heard the Wasp has a newer, easier to tune carb), and also how the engine does with things like reliability and fuel mileage. I already know the engine is a screamer, and basically any engine(Wasp, MT12, MR12, etc) will be fast in an NTC3, so I'm more concerned with the new carb and how the engine is as far as tuning goes. Also, I know the Picco engines have some issues with how they fit(collet and exhaust port). Any advice on that? Thanks!



I have a wasp 12 it is super easy to tune and im on my 5 gallon. Lots of low end a highend
:D

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I'm looking for a pdf, or image, or some other copy of the exploded view of my ntc3 with the part numbers. On associated's website, I found the building manual, however, I'm just looking for that two page exploded view of my car with the part numbers, etc.

Anyone know where I can find this?

[ElPolloDiablo]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
I'm looking for a pdf, or image, or some other copy of the exploded view of my ntc3 with the part numbers. On associated's website, I found the building manual, however, I'm just looking for that two page exploded view of my car with the part numbers, etc.

Anyone know where I can find this?

http://www.rc10.com/pdf/catalogs/drawing_ntc3.pdf

under online catalog(the thing with the big parts listing) on the side GO drawings

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Right on! Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for.

[HauntedMyst]

I picked up the 3Racing chassis this week from RCHUB.com. It's 4 mm at it's thickest and its chamfered at the edges to allow for chassis role. It looks like it would take a small nuke to damage it. It's very nicely made from solid aluminum with cut outs for weight but doesn't have anywhere near the finish of the K Factory. What appears to be a downside is the weight. It's a freaking brick. Just doing the unscientific "holding one in each hand" method, the mostly stock car with the 3Racing chassis seems much heavier then my all aluminum and carbon fiber K Factory car, which even has a big fat Mutant head on it. I'm going to run it tomorrow and see if it's any good.

[Nexus]

pikture.

do you run stock gearing with that wasp .12?

is it the .12 ROAR engine?


i've read this engine has done really well offroad but have not seen to many people use it onroad...but i'm interested.

[celly]

Originally posted by Nexus
pikture.

do you run stock gearing with that wasp .12?

is it the .12 ROAR engine?


i've read this engine has done really well offroad but have not seen to many people use it onroad...but i'm interested.

The WASP comes in 3 .12 flavors.

.12 ROAR
.12 TURBO
.12 Off-Road...

(*More Info http://www.teamorion.com/products/nitro_access.asp )

The ROAR is a beast of an engine... I was like .00076 seconds away from buying one when I bought my Fantom FR15.. biggest mistake I ever made.

As soon as I burn out the CV-RX on my ntc3, I'm going to go with a wasp or the OS tr.

[Sharkey]

ok guys, i have a nitro tc3 on order at my hobby shop and itll be here in a week or so. its a team kit, side exaust non pullstart. im steppin up from my rs4 int oa real race car. for now im going to stick my hpi/novarossi evo 2 into it (yes i know its side exaust, and i also know that i ordered a rear exaust kit. i also ordered a side exaust header) for the time being. when its worn out, im gonna stick a sirio into it.

anyways, id like to know if there are any tips you could give me for building the car, and little things that i should change from the start that will cause headaches down the road, or anything else you can think of that i should know when i dive into the box. this isnt my first kit i have built, and i dont have a shortage of rc expiriance (ive been in the hobby over 3 years, raced for 2 years).

thanx

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
In the perfect world, everything will be PERFECT, however, in this world......try to be PERFEST cost a lot of time and money.

.... just enjoy the RC car, it is a fun stuff, not a FULL TIME JOB nor a PHD degree subject.

Yes! Just enjoy the hobby! Was doing that till 2 am in the morning last nite. Another session this sunday. :)
:)

[POKeY]

Sharkey...

I just finished building my new NTC3 kit (my first kit ever) and it was so much easier than I thought it would be. Of course, I've had 6 months of wrenching on my NTC3 RTR to help. But the instructions are so easy to follow and well laid out that it is almost "fool proof".

Probably the only real tip I can think of is to pre-thread all of the arms with a pivot-ball before you install the arms onto the chassis. I found it much easier to do that over installing the arms and then threading the pivot-balls in for the first time, because if you do it before the arms are on the chassis then you have more leverage and the job is much easier.

Also, take note of the front and rear lower arms and where you put them. It seems stupid to me now, but the only mistake I made during the building process was that I accidently had one set of front/rear lower arms switched. I was talking to two of my friends tonight at the races about it and they both said they did the same thing too, lol.

Lastly, if you do not have a set-up board, I found it easier to mount the wheels on the chassis without the tires on to do my final caster/toe settings. Actually, I keep a set of unmounted wheels handy for those adjustments as it is much more accurate without the tires mounted to the rims.

BTW, my final build time was 14.75 hours (taking my time and watching TV while I built the car). HAVE FUN!

Good luck-

jeremy

[tamiyajoe]

14 hrs? well... it was your first kit, now im NOT tryying to sound like an a$$hole or anything like that, but it too my 4 hrs (flat) to getit built and going (4th kit) i guess you (and evryone in here) really is meticulus,not saying im a hack. but o well, just caughte me off gaurd. also,


i have the gt slipper spring in my servo saver, wat should it be set at? should i use the stock shim and stock settings?

[Ford850]

Does anyone here use the MIP clutch kit on their TC. If so how does it compare to the stock clutch.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDKY9&P=7

Thanks

[Sharkey]

anything else you guys can tell me???

[TC3Kamikaze]

sharkey
Here's the link to puma's page with pretty much all the tips we've listed on the forums. NTC3 Tips (http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm)
tamiya joe
I did mine just as the instructions said with the exception of having the different spring in it.
TC3

[Sharkey]

ok thanx guys. ill let you know what i think of the car in a week or 2. im still wiating for my lhs to get it in. i have a race next weekend and i will be racing my nitro rs4 one last time before i put it up for sale.

[tamiyajoe]

TC3Kamikaze: thats what ill doo, thanks a lot

[POKeY]

Written by tamiyajoe: 14 hrs? well... it was your first kit, now im NOT tryying to sound like an a$$hole or anything like that, but it too my 4 hrs (flat) to getit built and going (4th kit) i guess you (and evryone in here) really is meticulus,not saying im a hack. but o well, just caughte me off gaurd.

4 hours! Wow, that is fast. I doubt I could do it that fast. I told a friend that if I put my mind to it I could probably do it in 6-7 hours (including engine and electronics, set-up, etc...), but I know I couldn't do it in 4 hrs. That's impressive.

The diffs and the shocks took the longest for me. About 2 hours total to do all the shocks and both diffs. The only thing I was really meticulous about was trimming the excess plastic from the parts that were on the "trees".

Already having a NTC3 RTR really helped. I could put the entire car together without the instruction manual if I wanted too.

Later-

jeremy

[save1992]

i received my ntc3 rtr today it wouldn't run do you know there weren't any clutch shoes on the car has this happened to any of you

[Sharkey]

clutch shoes wont cause it not to run, but they will cause it not to move.

still waiting for my car to show up. my lhs was closed today cause of canada day. my lhs was bringing it from the states, so hopefully it clears the border by thursday.

[save1992]

yes the car will start it just won't move

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by save1992
yes the car will start it just won't move

So, you are saying....the engine can start, and the engine are running when you apply gas into it, right...?

So...flywheel and engine are not the problem....my next guess is the clutch nut and the clutch shoes....remove the engine and open up the clutch and take a look...

But if your clutch housing/gear are spinning, and your spur are spinning as well......it must be some of the pin, or the gears are loose or stripped....check them all out ONE step at a time.....from point A, to B, then C.....and so on. You will find the problem.

[tallyrc]

sounds like he sheared the cross pin in the 2 speed to me...

[Walt]

Originally posted by save1992
i received my ntc3 rtr today it wouldn't run do you know there weren't any clutch shoes on the car has this happened to any of you

Not the most clear post ever, but it sounds to me like he already diagnosed the problem: the clutch shoes are missing. He was just wondering if anyone else ever had this same factory defect.

If a post needs to be 'interpreted', then it probably wasn't a very good post in the first place. Perhaps these forums need software to detect improper sentances.

Here's how I would 'translate' his post: "I received my NTC3 today and although the engine would run, the car would not move. I took apart the clutch bell and there were no clutch shoes installed. Has anyone else ever heard of this defect?"

[save1992]

its the clutch shoes the car starts up fine it won't move there aren't any clutch shoes on the car whoever built the car at the factory didn't put them on:mad: :mad:

[TC3Kamikaze]

If it's a new car I'd give AE a call and let em know about the missing shoes. They have been good with problems that were run into with the first batch of cars.
TC3

[pikture]

Originally posted by Nexus
pikture.

do you run stock gearing with that wasp .12?

is it the .12 ROAR engine?


i've read this engine has done really well offroad but have not seen to many people use it onroad...but i'm interested.


I run the off road .12 1.4hp 36,700
I gear it 23/27 with 48/50

At my track it is a good all around performer. The only reason Im using this engine is because I took it out of my old Losi xxxnt.


I am looking foward to buying the turbo os .12TR.

[clgq2]

what type of servos do you guys use for racing, I'm looking for a digital steering servo.

[POKeY]

clgq2...

This is a great digital servo from Hi-Tec...
HiTec 5925 servo (http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-5925MG_Digital_Coreless/hs-5925mg_digital_coreless.html)

It has awesome speed and torque while remaining at a resonable price.

Take a look around theServo City (http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/index.html) site. They have great prices and they ship USPS Priority, FREE for all orders!

I ordered from them on Sunday night and my servos were at my door Wednesday at noon! Can't beat that with a stick, lol.

Good luck-

jeremy

[Rookie Solara]

Are those Hi-tek servos work on Futaba receiver? I am happy with my old Futaba but planning to get a fast/higher torque one in the future..........

Not necessary need to be Futaba, but whatelse I can choose from?

Thanks.........

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Are those Hi-tek servos work on Futaba receiver? I am happy with my old Futaba but planning to get a fast/higher torque one in the future..........

Not necessary need to be Futaba, but whatelse I can choose from?

Thanks.........
Hi-tek servos work fine I use them with my 3pk and R113ip reciever. I havent triend the digitals but I sure theyll work fine too. Hi-tek and Futaba recievers are interchangeable because they both use negative shift, so the servos should be interchangabble too.

[save1992]

i contacted associated and they said the parts are on the way:D :D

[xIIx]

Which cv-rx are you running? The .12 or .15

http://www.xfortress.net/ntc3.php
xIIx

Originally posted by celly
The WASP comes in 3 .12 flavors.

.12 ROAR
.12 TURBO
.12 Off-Road...

(*More Info http://www.teamorion.com/products/nitro_access.asp )

The ROAR is a beast of an engine... I was like .00076 seconds away from buying one when I bought my Fantom FR15.. biggest mistake I ever made.

As soon as I burn out the CV-RX on my ntc3, I'm going to go with a wasp or the OS tr.

[treky11]

Any NTC3 drivers test drive the new trinity G4 yet?

I have a NTC3 love it, but am getting bored again. I'm basically the fastest guy where we run and I need something new to make it a little more interesting.

Wondering what you guys thought?

[Clan O'Riley]

could people please post pictures of their car with the yokomo lola body. also please post pics of the chassis including the front end so i can see what the front shock tower looks like. i really want to put one of these bodies on my ntc3 but i'm not sure how to go about doing it. any help would be greatly appreiciated!:D

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Clan O'Riley
could people please post pictures of their car with the yokomo lola body. also please post pics of the chassis including the front end so i can see what the front shock tower looks like. i really want to put one of these bodies on my ntc3 but i'm not sure how to go about doing it. any help would be greatly appreiciated!:D


I was running the Parma Oval outlaw body...my freind was using the serpnet lola(same thing as you want)..the problem with the tc3 is the shock tower is a tad to high..

best way around that is to mount the body before you paint it..

when you get it on the front body posts,heat the body with one of those mini blowtorches..but ONLY of it has the hot air attachment....then you press down on teh body and it makes nice little indents in the body the shick tower fits into..

[paladin]

hey everyone. well, i'm coming down the final stretch on finishing my first kit car, and i'm just getting ready to fire up the motor and run the first tank through when i realized something that should have been pretty obvious.... Sirio didnt give me an air filter with the .12 motor i just got.
So i cruise on down to my LHS and low and behold, the o.d. on intake for the carb is MONSTROUS! I seriously couldnt believe it. I mean the only thing that looked like it might have worked was a .21 buggy cleaner, but i doubt that'd fit under my body.
So i know alot of people here are running sirio's, can anyone refer me to a good filter to run?

[Sharkey]

actualy, any big block air filter will fit. a lot of the new generation of .12 smallblocks need the big filter.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Pretty much no high hp .12s come with an airfilter try the trinity TRC big bore airfilters I got some and they fit fine. You can probably get some free I ordered them on tower and the box said big bore but they were actually small bore so I sent both trinity and tower and e-mail. Trinity sends me the right ones and tower sends me another set of mispackaged small bores I can't complain I got 4 air filters worth $30 free and I can use them on the cv-r in my gt. Its worth a try, shoot trinity an e-mail saying that you got some mispackaged ones and they'll probably send you a free pack. Of coarse I really did get mispacked air filters though.

[Pro3/nmt105]

opps double post

[Ford850]

I was planing on getting a O.S. .12CVR-X motor for my NTC3, because I didn't want to use a starter box. Now I decided to get a .12 TR motor for my car. Is this the best start box to use for the NTC3?

does anyone recommend this box?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7

Thanks
Calvin

[Clan O'Riley]

thanx for the ino fastharry!

[treky11]

Originally posted by Ford850
I was planing on getting a O.S. .12CVR-X motor for my NTC3, because I didn't want to use a starter box. Now I decided to get a .12 TR motor for my car. Is this the best start box to use for the NTC3?

does anyone recommend this box?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7

Thanks
Calvin

GET the OFNA version. Its the same box except it has an on/off switch, includes 12v cables, has abec 5 bearings and the side doesn't have the huge plastic thing for the start wheel. Basically they knocked it off and then improved it. I got mine for $70 at LHS.

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

could some one please explain a front one way to me in depth. I was briefly told that it frees up the front wheels when braking so you have better cornering in the curves. After i thought about this for a while, I got to wondering, how it doesnt turn it into a 2wd all the time? Maybe I am reading into it too much. Thanx for your help. -J

[Sharkey]

a front one way has 2 one way bearings in it(one on each side for each outdrive), the same as first gear in a 2 speed. when its under power, the one way bearings lock, essentialy giving you a solid axel, or a locked diff. when you let off the throttle or use the brakes, the bearings unlock, making the front wheels freewheel. this basicly turs the car into a 2wd car.

now thats the hardware, here is the theory. a one way is supposed to make the car pull out of the corners harder. the downside is that being it only brakes with the rear wheels, the car will almost allways swap ends when braking. they work best on wide tracks with sweeping corners were braking isnt nessessary.

[treky11]

It will be on my NTC3 Tuesday nite as it blows by the local Serpent and Trinity drivers.

What do you think?

[Sharkey]

sweet looking body. those flames look real good.

still wiating for my car to get here. my old rs4 had its final run last night, and is now torn to shreads. it took me to 2nd place, losing to a 10 turn electric tc3 and beating a 15 year old 1/8 scale buggy with a 2 speed (the thing is nutty fast), some other gas touring cars, and a couple more low turn electric cars. it made for some great racing, and just fuels the "electric vs gas" debate at our track.

man i cant wait to get my nitro tc3.

[x2x]

Originally posted by Sharkey
sweet looking body. those flames look real good.

still wiating for my car to get here. my old rs4 had its final run last night, and is now torn to shreads. it took me to 2nd place, losing to a 10 turn electric tc3 and beating a 15 year old 1/8 scale buggy with a 2 speed (the thing is nutty fast), some other gas touring cars, and a couple more low turn electric cars. it made for some great racing, and just fuels the "electric vs gas" debate at our track.

man i cant wait to get my nitro tc3.

I don't really like flames ..but cool..looks good..I'm trying to learn two tone paint jobs myself.
http://www.xfortress.net/ntc3.php
xIIx

[x2x]

Originally posted by Sharkey
a front one way has 2 one way bearings in it(one on each side for each outdrive), the same as first gear in a 2 speed. when its under power, the one way bearings lock, essentialy giving you a solid axel, or a locked diff. when you let off the throttle or use the brakes, the bearings unlock, making the front wheels freewheel. this basicly turs the car into a 2wd car.

now thats the hardware, here is the theory. a one way is supposed to make the car pull out of the corners harder. the downside is that being it only brakes with the rear wheels, the car will almost allways swap ends when braking. they work best on wide tracks with sweeping corners were braking isnt nessessary.

Ya,,umm what he said
http://www.xfortress.net/ntc3.php
xIIx

[Jayweezy]

I might be getting one of these Team Kits soon and wanted to know what should be the first mod I make?? What are the parts I should stock up on first??

[puma1824]

Originally posted by Jayweezy
I might be getting one of these Team Kits soon and wanted to know what should be the first mod I make?? What are the parts I should stock up on first??

See LINK:

NTC3 general tips (http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm)

[Jayweezy]

Thanks and from searching this site ya'll got some mad looking NTC3s in this thang.;)

[Sharkey]

well, i finaly got my car today:) im gonna start putting it together in a bit here, and im planning to have it finished for tomorow night so i can take it out on the track, providing my side exaust header shows up.

[paladin]

ok, my tc3 was ALMOST ready to drive.
unfortunately i realized at the last minute that it required a "turbo plug" none of the LHS's in my area stock a single one, so its off to order it.
My question here is this. When i ordered my sirio .12, i specified the ROAR legal version, not the outlaw, but i was under the impression that all turbo engines dont meet roar, just ifmar.
anyone care to correct me and set the record straight?

oh, and i ran into one dilemna when mounting my body. the rear body posts have to come up on the rear windshield, but they aren't high enough to go all the way through. Any tips on how to extend them?

EDIT:
Its an HPI WRX STi rally body, 2001.

[Pro3/nmt105]

The roar version sirio dosnt need a turbo plug, where did you get that idea? Unless they accidently included a turbo head button with yours but I dont think thats very likely. If you got the new version with the 2 needle carb, it has a turbo crank because that is now roar legal, but not a turbo button.

[Sharkey]

thats odd, shouldnt need a turbo plug if its a roar motor. pull the head off and take a look at the button. if it tapers down, its a turbo button, if it doesnt, then its not.

well, i put a good 4 hours into my car tonight, and i quit after putting the turnbuckles on. all i can say is this is the nicest car ive touched. the only thing i hate is that the pivot balls are so hard to screw in, even after greasing the threads. guess they have to be though. i have all day tomorow to work on the car, so im hoping that my lhs has my header, as thats all i will need to complete it.

[Sharkey]

one thing i forgot to ask is about the kit settings for foam tires. on page 33 is has the settings for rubber tires, and it says "settings for foam tires on next page". on page 34, it lists all the factory team parts, but no settings for foam tires.

does anyone have the settings for foam tires that came out of the manual???

[TC3Kamikaze]

It should be on the second to last page left hand side. If it isn't I'll dig it up after work.
On the sirio if it is indeed a roar legal non turbo then a novarossi 7 or 8 will do. Least my sirio ain't complaining about either plug. Now only if the rain would stop so I can finish break in. Doh!
TC3

[Sharkey]

all thats on the 2nd to last page is factory team options. id realy appreciate that.

anyways, my car is all together exept for the header and pipe. the header will be at my lhs in a few hours, so ill be running it at the track tonight. i threw a setup in simular to what i ran in my last car with foam tires (as far as camber, toe, ect). the only thing i have to do is mount a body and figure out the rideheight. the car has 10mm ridheight and i have no prelaod in the shocks.:eek:

[TC3Kamikaze]

Ok I'm home it's page 34 left hand side. Guess you must either have the rtr manual or some one screwed up at AE and gave the wrong one. No matter here's what they suggest.
front camber- 2
front camber link- inner hole on tower
front caster-9
front toe-1 toe out
front ride height- 5.5mm
front droop- 4
bump steer spacers- none
ackerman- #3857 ball ends
front anti roll bar- 1715 blade 60 degrees
rear camber-3
rear camber link- inner hole tower
rear toe-in 2
rear ride height 5.5mm
rear droop- 4
rear anti roll bar- #3960
shock body- alum. macro shock
shock oil- front 60wt rear 40wt
shock shaft-front & rear #8844
shock pistons- front #3 rear #3
shock springs- front: yellow rear: red
shock mounting- front tower inner hole arm outer hole
shock mounting- rear tower middle hole arm outer hole
the rest is engine body and all.
TC3

[Sharkey]

alright thanx. im gonna run out to get my header now, so i will be trying my car tonight.

[paladin]

yea, it has a turbo button.
what is wierd is that when i ordered it, it was roar legal, yet has a turbo button. well i dont plan on racing it right away, and i can always just order up a backup button if i do.
still, i'm upset that the cheap italians didnt send a plug with their expensive engine.
anyone got ideas on how to fix that body mounting problem?

[Pro3/nmt105]

If you have the outlaw version, it has 5 ports and only 3 port engines are allowed in most racing so replacing the head button wont make it legal.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
It should be on the second to last page left hand side. If it isn't I'll dig it up after work.
On the sirio if it is indeed a roar legal non turbo then a novarossi 7 or 8 will do. Least my sirio ain't complaining about either plug. Now only if the rain would stop so I can finish break in. Doh!
TC3
What method are you using for break-in? Im debating which method to use. Im probably going to run around very slowly on the first tank and get it up to 200F right away and increase speed every tank and begin leaning it little by little at the 6th or 7th tank and start hitting some WOT bursts on the 8th or 9th tank. Rcca reccomends heat cycling the engine by only running it in 2 to 3 minute intervals and allowing it to cool in between intervals, but nobody seems to use this method so I guess I wont.

[Sharkey]

well, i ran my car tonight for the first time. the guys didnt show up with the track stuff, so i just ran in the empty parking lot. i have to say, the car handles well, and i cant get over how free the drivetrain is, as well as the brakes. i had to lean the motor out a bunch, it runs a lot cooler with the free drivetrain compared to the last car it was in. the only thing i had to change was the 2 speed, it was shifting way to late at 3.5 turns. it ended up at 4 1/4 out before i was happy with it, and i might gear down to 21/25 pinion gears, as the car is still accelerating at the end of the straight (or were it would be). ill see what happens once i get some time on an actual track, and some more tuning.

overal i love this car. right out of the box it handles the powerful motor i have. im very impressed with it.:)

[paladin]

its not the outlaw version, yet is apparently a roar-turbo. since there is no such thing, i'm guessing i just need to change it to a standard plug to make it ok.
according to tower and the teamtrinity website i believe, they ovver the turbo .12, and the turbo.12 outlaw.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX7&P=7

[TC3Kamikaze]

Pro3
Your description of how your going to break your engine in is about the same way as I did it. I did change the plug after the first tank as a precaution. So far this little power plant has been impressive. Course time will tell after a gallon or two it should be even better.
palidin
I'm getting really confused by your post hoss. The tower link you posted is the same engine I have. As my eariler post stated the 7 or 8 plug from novarossi will do. I did hear the mc9 or mc8 would too. But I'm one not to believe hearsay. So I went the novarossi plug route.
TC3

[POKeY]

Posted by Pro3/nmt105:
Rcca reccomends heat cycling the engine by only running it in 2 to 3 minute intervals and allowing it to cool in between intervals, but nobody seems to use this method so I guess I wont

I've been using that method for over a year now. Just follow the directions as set forth in RC Nitro and your engine should turn out fine.

I've used this method with 4 engines (it will be 5 when I break-in my new Fantom this weekend) and they have all turned out better than when I used the "traditional" method.

Good luck-

jeremy

[paladin]

I've got the novarossi plug on order from my LHS, i was just slightly confused as far as ROAR-legality was concerned. is it legal to run a turbo plug?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by paladin
I've got the novarossi plug on order from my LHS, i was just slightly confused as far as ROAR-legality was concerned. is it legal to run a turbo plug?
No, I think Ifmar might allow turbo plugs though. You might wanna take out the sleave and count the number of ports they probably accedently send you the outlaw with the 5 port p/s and turbo button.

[paladin]

The actual sirio box was stamped with tpr-12 or something, signifying that it is turbo. the outlaw has an OUT or something after it. so unless trinity or sirio screwed up, i should be fine.

btw: anyone know how to raise the rear body posts higher to get through a taller body?

[Pro3/nmt105]

If you check the number on the box we can tell you if its a 5 port or not. Mine says S12-TRP I think the S means slide carb.

[Sharkey]

i basicly just finished my car, but i want to get the rideheight down. the car is sitting over 10mm and the shocks have no preload. the instructions dont say anything about shock length. my shocks are 60mm from center to center. are they to long??? what do you guys do to get the rideheight down???

[paladin]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
If you check the number on the box we can tell you if its a 5 port or not. Mine says S12-TRP I think the S means slide carb.
we have the same engine.
was yours legal? or did you have to change the button first?

[TC3Kamikaze]

SP12TRP Roar legal engine
SP12TRPPRO Turbo or outlaw engine
That's the specs I got from Sirio website. So you don't have to worry about the button. You'll love the power it has. :)
Sharkey
Two things that come to mind. First droop might be the cause. The other is the shock cups being upside down causing preload. I know both are pushing but hey who knows.
TC3

[Sharkey]

well, the droop is at 4 and 3, like in the manual, but the moron (me) who built the car seems to have put the shock cups on upside down:eek:

OOPS!!!

guess ill change that before i go to the track tonight.

[Pro3/nmt105]

My friends getting out of rc and hes got some TRC foams that are pretty new that I could buy off him. In one set the compounds are pink and purple and in the other set the compounds are magenta and pink. Will these be any good for the ntc3? theyre all 26mm because theyre off his electric tc3.

[Raydee]

I just bought a Dual chamber pipe for the NTC3 and was wondering what difference I will see in the car and if I should adjust the engine any different?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Are you supposed to drill holes in the stock ntc3 rims, I know with trucks you drill holes in them but Im not sure about TCs.

[Pro3/nmt105]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
forget it checked the directions

[j. sorwell]

raydee- more low end power, so you could richen the bottom an 1/8 turn if you want, also seems to give better fuel consumption rates.

pro3- if they are cheap enough, go for it. but they will not give the traction that nitro foams will, unless you are running on carpet. they are made of a more dense foam, and will wear less, but will be very unforgiving on asphalt.

[RCCARBOY747]

hey guys I got my ntc3 about a few months ago and so far I extremly pleased with the performance.So far I have put on

dynamite hub carriers on all corners
2- speed tranny
lunsford ***. turn buckles and hindg pins
carbon fiber upper deck
venom on-board temp
venom 1100 mah 5-cell rx. pack
V-33's and gumby wheels
racers edge air filter
some stainless screws
40 pound springs f/r
dubro fule filter
3-shoe clutch
lightweight clutch bell
and to top the package a HPI speed six body.

Thats it for right now but soon I'm going to put on threaded aluminum shocks and the RB innovations super charger.its not legal but I dont race official races.:D

[RAYMAN1OO7]

hi i will be getting a ntc3 pullstart side exhaust kit soon off tower hobbies with an os .12 cv-rx engine, trinity 1100 receiver pack, and an airtronics mx3 radio. i was just wondering if pivot hubs from the reflex or serpent or any car like that will fit on the ntc3 because i like those designs better, or can i change the pivot balls from the same manufacturer as the hub and just screw them into the associated arms?. or do you guys think the associated is better? thanks and also, what glow starters do you guys like better, dubro or great planes, im not used to using one because i have a t-maxx 2.5

[Sharkey]

i think the associated hubs are just fine. they dont have adjustable caps, but they are made from such a tough plastic that i dont know how much it will all wear. id just get hardcore aluminum hubs when mine wear out.

if you could find some hubs that fit, you would also need to find cvd axels that fit properly.

[DanDan]

http://community.webshots.com/s/image3/1/54/62/74615462ChXcSG_ph.jpg
:D

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by RAYMAN1OO7
i was just wondering if pivot hubs from the reflex or serpent or any car like that will fit on the ntc3 because i like those designs better, or can i change the pivot balls from the same manufacturer as the hub and just screw them into the associated arms?

Nope....Serpent pivot balls and shaft are too big, I think Relfex is the same...won't work. I don't think you can convert any other brand into the NTC3 one....beside, you said you like their design better....they are all pivot balls steering, what are the different...?

However, you can change this....use Mugen Pivot balls, the balls itself is a hair bigger, you can drimel some plastic out from the inside of the NTC3 hub and should work...... but the shaft, you have to tap your NTC arm a little bigger by using drill to get that work.....quite a lot of work involve but do-able.

The result....no more bent pivot balls, but the trade off, you will break the upper or lower arms instead.

[Sharkey]

i think buying a set of titanium ae pivot balls is the answer.

[Raydee]

I have heard that Yokomo sells a body that is 200mm and will fit the NTC3. Has anybody tried one??

[POKeY]

Sharkey-

You might want to think twice about getting the Ti pivot balls. Where I'm at they are not very popular. I personally know 4 different people who used them with less than happy results.

The problem with the Ti pivot balls is that they have a tendency to snap right in-two, therefore leaving your car broken if you're in the middle of a main when it happens. At least the stock pivot balls usually just bend, so even if your car gets tweaked it is still drivable.

The stock pivot balls are also more cost effective than the Ti.

Of course, if everyone would just lay off the boards there would never be a problem. I have bent one pivot ball in 7 months of racing (and yes, I do check them after every race night). They have a tendency to bend the worst when you're coming in the corners "to hot" and slapping the boards at an angle.

Good luck-

jeremy

[Sharkey]

ill have to keep that in mind. i dont race on a track with boards (just curbs) so it wouldnt be a big deal for me. i thought titanium would be great, cause those stock pivot balls weight a ton.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

thanks guys, ill just leave it how it is

[di_water]

Hi here is modification, thanks

[di_water]

pic 2

[di_water]

pic 3

[di_water]

pic 4

[di_water]

pic 5

[di_water]

pic 6

[di_water]

pic 7 (last one)

[johnnybp7]

Originally posted by di_water
pic 7 (last one)

Who makes the shocks on your NTC3?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Sharkey
i think buying a set of titanium ae pivot balls is the answer.

Honestly, you can try that.....but you will also get the same answer (bend just like the steel one, no freaking different)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by di_water
pic 7 (last one)

Nice mod.....I would like to know who made the rear floating butterfly style conversion for NTC3...? Good concept....

[paladin]

I'm still having trouble getting this body mounted (car isnt running yet, so it hasnt been as big of an issue). can i get taller rear body pins? or does somebody make a way to extend them? without them the rear of my body will just be flingin round all over the place

[di_water]

Hi, thats is Mugen's Shock. I feel it is more easy to build or maintainence.

The Aluminium parts is make by myself, and the plastic parts just directly use V1RR parts without modify, just too lazy to make those plastic part by my own. acutuall there is a newer version that is lighter and the mount dimension is more fit to the body.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by di_water
Hi, thats is Mugen's Shock. I feel it is more easy to build or maintainence.

The Aluminium parts is make by myself, and the plastic parts just directly use V1RR parts without modify, just too lazy to make those plastic part by my own. acutuall there is a newer version that is lighter and the mount dimension is more fit to the body.

if you dont mind can you give us a listing of the part numbers for the v1rr part that you used? that is definatly a good thing for the lola shells

[AreCee]

Originally posted by paladin
I'm still having trouble getting this body mounted (car isnt running yet, so it hasnt been as big of an issue). can i get taller rear body pins? or does somebody make a way to extend them? without them the rear of my body will just be flingin round all over the place

OK, I'm getting tired of reading about your body mount problems. Just buy the longer HPI body mounts, drill two 1/8" holes in each post where they would line up with the TC3 shock tower and screw them on with two 4-40 screws on each post and finish off with nuts. DONE.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by di_water
Hi, thats is Mugen's Shock. I feel it is more easy to build or maintainence.

The Aluminium parts is make by myself, and the plastic parts just directly use V1RR parts without modify, just too lazy to make those plastic part by my own. acutuall there is a newer version that is lighter and the mount dimension is more fit to the body.
You could sell those on ebay, Im sure there are alot of people who would be interested in buying them.

[Ford850]

Will i notice a difference if I replace my stock drive-train with a light weight Two-Speed One-way Hub, Lightweight Two-Speed Clutch Housing, and a Lightweight Two-Speed Clutch Bell?