Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v4.0

[frank13]

depends on the track ,, on a fast , no braking track , with wide sweeping turns , and nothing technicall at all ,, no , it will be a detriment ,,, cause the added wieght once moving will stay moving longer ,,
however on a tight track where you need to accelerate constantly , there will be a slight difference , in th eway the car spools up ,

i have both setups and i use them on different tracks,

frank13

[RCTime]

I just ordered some replacement parts for my NTC3, specifically a Shock Tower and set of Chassis Braces. I noticed that the Associated Carbon Fiber parts weren't that much more expensive than the stock parts. I went ahead and ordered the chassis braces in the Carbon, but I got the stock shock tower because I was worried that the Carbon would break easier. Are the carbon parts worth it in general? Do they hold up as well as the stock parts?

[Sharkey]

carbon parts are stiffer than plastic, but are more brittle. if you do hit things, then id stick with the plastic stuff. plastic isnt as stiff but flexes more, so you wont break stuff as much when you crash.

now if you have the team kit (not rtr), it already has a real tough material. it has some graphite mixed in with the plastic, making the stuff real strong. after screwing my pivot balls in the first time, i cant imagine anyone needs a stronger plastic than what comes with the team car.

[RCTime]

Originally posted by Sharkey
carbon parts are stiffer than plastic, but are more brittle. if you do hit things, then id stick with the plastic stuff. plastic isnt as stiff but flexes more, so you wont break stuff as much when you crash.

now if you have the team kit (not rtr), it already has a real tough material. it has some graphite mixed in with the plastic, making the stuff real strong. after screwing my pivot balls in the first time, i cant imagine anyone needs a stronger plastic than what comes with the team car.

That's pretty much what I figured, that's why I only got the carbon chassis braces, those aren't likely to break. I do have the team kit, and have been impressed with the strength of the material so far. I wasn't aware the RTR was made from different material though. Can you recommend any worthwhile hopups for the team kit? So far, I only have the aluminum shock caps, mainly because I prefer the all metal look instead of the plastic caps on the shocks. I want to get a receiver pack, but I can't find a cheap charger that will handle NiMH cells. . .

[Sharkey]

the best thing to get if you only run nitro is a cheap ofna charger that plugs straight into the wall. it takes about 4-6 hours to charge, and costs about $8. a receiver pack is definitly a wize investment.

so far, i havent found anything i would charge on my car yet. i need to change the gearing a bit for my track (not realy a hop up) and i have the front blade swaybar on order (i want it cause i run foams). i have a spring kit wich is great for tuning the car, and that about all i recomend for it. you could get a ti turnbuckle kit, but i see that as mostly bling bling factor, unless you are snapping the steel ones.

the rtr is made of a more plastic matieial. if you look at the pivot ball caps on your car, you will be able to see that they are plastic, while the steering hub is a lighter color.

[RCTime]

Ok, I actually broke a pivot ball cap the other day and noticed that it seemed like they were made from a different material. I have no need for Ti Turnbuckles at this point, and I agree about the "bling bling" factor. I just remembered that I did order the Brake cam bearings, as I was suprised to see how stiff that mechanism can get once it gets dirty. Anyway can you provide a part or model number on that OFNA charger you mentioned?

[Sharkey]

ofna 10214. its $7.95 0n nitrohouse.com here is what it looks like
http://nitrohouse.com/images/10010-19999/10214,-NiMH-battery-charger.jpg

i used one till i got into electrc, so now i just use my peak charger.

[Raydee]

Can someone tell me if the RB x12 or the V12 will go into the NTC3 without mods? I want the Slide carb and Serpent crank version.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im thinkin of goin into nitro. i have limited money.. looking at ntc3 rtr.. worth it? how much mainenance, parts costs... and how long to break in, dial in, get running right?

[Sharkey]

an rb motor will bolt right in. the team kit includes both a pilot shaft and a clutch nut, so an sg shaft will work great.

the rtr nitro tc3 is definitly worth it. parts are fairly cheap, and matinance is minimal with the shaft drive the car uses. break in shouldnt be that long (can be done in one afternoon for the most part), and the car is dailed right out of the box. there are also plenty of setups on the net to get the car dialed.

[di_water]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
if you dont mind can you give us a listing of the part numbers for the v1rr part that you used? that is definatly a good thing for the lola shells

I forgot the part no# but I just buy the rear butterfly mount bag and the little silver cylinderical part that help to fix the butterfly plate in position. and then I CNC the Aluminum upper A-arm mount to adapt the plate. At the rear center, wire-cut and bend a L plate that can hold the silver cylinderical part to fix the position of the butterfly plate.

My english is too bad, hope you can understand.

Actually I am making some spare parts, not too much, may be 2-3 sets.

[TC3Kamikaze]

I found the steering bearings and new style tank to be the best upgrade for the team kit. The two speed, steering bearings and team shocks for the ease of adjustment for the RTR. Just from my observations thus far.
TC3

[Sharkey]

there is a new style tank for the team kit??? is it the one that has the pressure inlet in the cap???

personaly, i like the k factory fuel tank, but its expensive.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Yeah the K factory is all right but I've heard it has some troubles teamed up with the RD logics pipe. And there seems to be issues when with it leaning out towards when the tank level drops. The AE tank is just fine now they got rid of the presure inlet going 3/4 into the tank. The new design has it on the tank lid.
TC3

[Sharkey]

ok good, i have the newer style tank. my kit is fairly new as production goes. my catalogue that came with it says june 2003, and i got it at the end of june.

[heLLo deRe]

who is "Kfactory"? i hear u guys talking bout their parts but i havent heard of them before. do they have a website?

[Sharkey]

kfactory is part of trinity. go to http://www.teamtrinity.com/ and click on accessories, and go to kfactory

[TC3Kamikaze]

Here's a better link to them K Factory (http://www.kfactoryracing.com) .
Good deal you have the newer style tank Sharkey. Got one of the old production kits myself. I wonder what AE might have in store for the future of the NTC3.
TC3

[Domeno]

hi,
Does anyone have any suggestions or pics on how to mount a throttle return spring on an ntc3 with a rotary carb?

thanks,
Domeno

[Sharkey]

i dont have a pic, but i usualy mount it from the carb arm to one of the engine mount screws. ive seen a better way, but you need to drill a small hole in one of the fins on the head, and atach it to that.

[Domeno]

Thanks for the reply Sharkey.

I thought about the engine mount screw but the spring is at such a sharp angle to the throttle when the throttle is fully open that you have to really tension the spring for it to take effect.

I also thought about attaching it to the handle for lifting the car with. It's much more linear to the throttle but gets in the way of other things.

Drilling a small hole in the cooling fin could be the way to go but something inside me just doesn't want to do that!

thanks,
Domenic

[Walt]

If you are not worried about the linkage between the servo arm and the throttle arm breaking, you can hook the spring up to the servo arm instead.

You can hook it up the way I did: hook one end of the throttle return spring over the exposed 'z-bend' wire that works the brakes that is sticking out of the top of the servo arm. The other end can be attached to either the rear screw that holds the battery mount to the radio tray, or one of the screws that holds the rear of the radio tray.

This set up will bring the throttle back to idle and apply the brakes if the throttle servo should fail or loose power, or if your entire receiver should fail or loose power, or if you forget to power on the receiver before starting the car... we've pretty much all have done this at one time or another.

It will not help if your throttle linkage fails.

On my slide carb engine, I take care of the 'linkage failure' issue by simply wrapping a small rubber band around the carb body and slide so if the linkage fails the rubber band will close the carb.

I hope that helps or sparks some ideas for you.

[pep88]

Im running the stock diff and have been having problems keeping them adjusted correctly. I cant figure out why they keep loosening up on me. My car runs great when they are set to the stock specs (1/4 out in the front, 1/2 turn out in the rear). Cept when I get it on the track, it seems to hold for a while, then loosen up. After the last race I checked the rear and it was almost 2 full turns out (!). The manual says "CAUTION! Dont loosen more than 3/4 turn!!"

Anybody ever had this prob? Know a fix?

:confused:

Thanks

[nitrodude_1]

I am new to touring cars and I was woundering whitch car is good to get I race off road I wana good kit. no radio

[heLLo deRe]

well ur in the right forum...the ntc3

[nitrodude_1]

whitch one should I get

[heLLo deRe]

if u r looking for a kit. get the ntc3 kit. no radio or engine or body. but comes with many upgrades.

[xardjetx]

how do i tighten hex hubs? there is soo much play on the wheels that everythigns just moves and sets off my allignment. can anyone help me?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

how does the rtr handle and perform. im a main basher, and might race with ppl on local tracks. i dont want to upgrade.

[Sharkey]

Originally posted by xardjetx
how do i tighten hex hubs? there is soo much play on the wheels that everythigns just moves and sets off my allignment. can anyone help me?

to much play??? when i built my car, i had to suck the hexes on using an old wheel and wheelnut. you could try some aluminum hexes, that should solve the problem, or even just some new plastic ones.

[Pro3/nmt105]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I agree I had to practically hammer the hexes into the wheels because it was such a tight fit, I have absolutly no play.

[pep88]

Originally posted by xardjetx
how do i tighten hex hubs? there is soo much play on the wheels that everythigns just moves and sets off my allignment. can anyone help me?

My wheels seem to wooble a lot. When I roll my car the camber changes as much as 3-4 degress. I cant seem to figure out if its the hex hubs or something more serious. Anybody come across this?

:confused:

[fastharry]

theres NO play on my cars either..go back and check the car out..

[Sharkey]

is it the rtr or the team kit???

the team kit uses a real stiff plastic, stiffer than the rtr. the wheel hexes on the rtr might wear fast.

[pep88]

Originally posted by pep88
Im running the stock diff and have been having problems keeping them adjusted correctly. I cant figure out why they keep loosening up on me. My car runs great when they are set to the stock specs (1/4 out in the front, 1/2 turn out in the rear). Cept when I get it on the track, it seems to hold for a while, then loosen up. After the last race I checked the rear and it was almost 2 full turns out (!). The manual says "CAUTION! Dont loosen more than 3/4 turn!!"

Anybody ever had this prob? Know a fix?

:confused:

Thanks

*BUMP*
Nobody's ever had this prob? Im basically just wondering if you guys use thread lock or something else to keep em set....

:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Pro3/nmt105]

Finally got to use my ntc3 today after 6 months of waiting. I had a problem when I adjusted the ride height that I think is affecting the cars handeling. In order for me to have a level ride height the preload has to differ greatly from side to side on the front and rear shocks, this in turn causes the car to be out of tweak and turn sharper in one direction than in the other. So should I sacrifice having a level ride height to get equal tweak or should I sacrifice tweak to get an equal ride height?

What brand of rubber tires do you guys suggest? Does tower carry any decent brands? The stock tires are about to ripp apart after 4 break-in tanks with my sirio under half throttle. Im really suprised with the reliability of the sirio (so far atleast) it Idles better than my cv-r and never bogged down or flamed out on me and it is very responsive to tuning.

[adlawoo]

How can you make your NTC3's rolls less...mines just rolls forever, love it before but not anymore. Thanks!

[heLLo deRe]

i just got my 2-speed. its GREAT. silent smooth shifting. i cant get enouigh of it. i might just buy a sirio soon. this sucker will touch 70 with sum tall gear ratios.

[Sharkey]

pro 3:

set your rideheight to 5.5mm (like in the book) and then put it on the tweak board and set the tweak. the ridehight wont be the same side to side, but its normal. as for rubber tires, the best rubber tires i have used sorex 36r and yokomo 138g, and pit tires. they hook the best, but dont last long. if your racing, seriously consider going to foams. they will last longer (imho) than rubber tires as far as traction goes. you can run rubber tires till they are on the belts. but they wont hook well for that amount of time. foams can be run to the rim. what i do with foams is buy 1 set for the front, and 2 sets for the back. after every 2 runs, i swap the rear tires to the other pair. if you do this, they will last way longer, and you wont have problems with overdriving the rear if you dont cut them.

adlawoo:

the best way to make the car roll less is to dial in some brake drag. adjust your brakes so they just drag slightly when the motor is at idle. i personaly like the way mine rolls, it allows me to let off at the same point i would with my last car, but stay off the throttle till the tires are pointed straight, so it accelerates straight.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Sharkey
pro 3:

set your rideheight to 5.5mm (like in the book) and then put it on the tweak board and set the tweak. the ridehight wont be the same side to side, but its normal. as for rubber tires, the best rubber tires i have used sorex 36r and yokomo 138g, and pit tires. they hook the best, but dont last long. if your racing, seriously consider going to foams. they will last longer (imho) than rubber tires as far as traction goes. you can run rubber tires till they are on the belts. but they wont hook well for that amount of time. foams can be run to the rim. what i do with foams is buy 1 set for the front, and 2 sets for the back. after every 2 runs, i swap the rear tires to the other pair. if you do this, they will last way longer, and you wont have problems with overdriving the rear if you dont cut them.

Hmm I dont have a tweak board (yet) until I get one I guess Ill set the preload equal on each side and see if that helps. I guess a tweak board would be a good investment though.

[Pro3/nmt105]

How do the GH pinions compare with the associated ones? theyre cheaper on tower.

[POKeY]

xardjetx:
how do i tighten hex hubs? there is soo much play on the wheels that everythigns just moves and sets off my allignment. can anyone help me?

You could have a "blown" bearing in the carrier. That will cause a lot of play in your wheels.

You could also have a warped wheel. Which can happen a lot when you're hitting boards, curbs, etc...

Good luck-

jeremy

[Sharkey]

a tweak station is a wize investment. i thought i could do without one, but after using another racers, i had to have one. i set mine up at the track, and use it after every heat to check the cars tweak. my nitro tc3 doesnt change much, but i also race a pro 3 and with one hit to the boards or if i hit a corner dot, the tweak is way off. i have a MIP one. its what almost all the races around here use.

since you dont have one, set the ride hight up the same from the left to right side. this should get the tweak close.

[Pro3/nmt105]

I set the shock's preload the same on the front shocks and the rear shocks and handeling seems to have improved but it still needs some work. It could also have to do with the tires all of the are ripping apart except the left rear because I was making mostly right turns.

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by Sharkey
pro 3:

set your rideheight to 5.5mm (like in the book) and then put it on the tweak board and set the tweak. the ridehight wont be the same side to side, but its normal. as for rubber tires, the best rubber tires i have used sorex 36r and yokomo 138g, and pit tires. they hook the best, but dont last long. if your racing, seriously consider going to foams. they will last longer (imho) than rubber tires as far as traction goes. you can run rubber tires till they are on the belts. but they wont hook well for that amount of time. foams can be run to the rim. what i do with foams is buy 1 set for the front, and 2 sets for the back. after every 2 runs, i swap the rear tires to the other pair. if you do this, they will last way longer, and you wont have problems with overdriving the rear if you dont cut them.

adlawoo:

the best way to make the car roll less is to dial in some brake drag. adjust your brakes so they just drag slightly when the motor is at idle. i personaly like the way mine rolls, it allows me to let off at the same point i would with my last car, but stay off the throttle till the tires are pointed straight, so it accelerates straight.

Thanks Sharkey! Probably more brake drag for me and will be alright....BTW, anyone here running an OS12TR Turbo? Somehow I cannot get mine work right and thinking of putting back my non-turbo 12TR. The Turbo won't run below 200F and have to set the idle high. I started 2 1/2High & 2 1/2Low(from flush) as per manual and now I'm 1 1/2High needle....OS medium turbo plug - still won't run right....your inputs Please....Thanks!

[ritchies rc10gt]

im sure this has been covered before but its almost midnight and i dont feel like reading through all the pages to find it.

what will cause the car to eat the inside edge of the tires right off in about 3 tanks of fuel?

my setup:

1 degree of camber front and rear
1 degree toe in in the rear
outside holes on the upper arms
gold springs in the rear
copper springs in the front
40WT shock oil all around
12 degrees of caster in the front
rear sway bar
front blade sway bar on the softest setting
front and rear difs at factory settings
20/54 first gear
17/48 second gear
ROSSI .12 nonpullstart engine

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by pep88
*BUMP*
Nobody's ever had this prob? Im basically just wondering if you guys use thread lock or something else to keep em set....

:confused: :confused: :confused:


might sound dumb but make sure the adjustment screws are on the left side of the car.also check your thrust balls,washers and springs.it may be time for a rebuild

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
im sure this has been covered before but its almost midnight and i dont feel like reading through all the pages to find it.

what will cause the car to eat the inside edge of the tires right off in about 3 tanks of fuel?

my setup:

1 degree of camber front and rear
1 degree toe in in the rear
outside holes on the upper arms
gold springs in the rear
copper springs in the front
40WT shock oil all around
12 degrees of caster in the front
rear sway bar
front blade sway bar on the softest setting
front and rear difs at factory settings
20/54 first gear
17/48 second gear
ROSSI .12 nonpullstart engine
Hmm my stock tires look like that but a little more ripped up after 5 break-in tanks going no faster than a little over half throttle and lower than that for most of the tanks. I think its just due to the power of the engine, Im running a sirio and your running a pixi (right?) which is comparable in power. Mabey you should try running a harder compound? I dont really know that much about this because Im used to running foams on carpet.

I doubt it has anything to do with this but mabey you should run the upper arms in the inner holes, I think the outer holes are only for very slippery conditions.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by adlawoo
Thanks Sharkey! Probably more brake drag for me and will be alright....BTW, anyone here running an OS12TR Turbo? Somehow I cannot get mine work right and thinking of putting back my non-turbo 12TR. The Turbo won't run below 200F and have to set the idle high. I started 2 1/2High & 2 1/2Low(from flush) as per manual and now I'm 1 1/2High needle....OS medium turbo plug - still won't run right....your inputs Please....Thanks!
Are you breaking in? because most people say you want to keep the engine slightly over 200F in order for the parts to expand enough to not wear prematurely. And you engine should be running over 200F if its broken in.

[Tee]

Hey pep88,
I would guess your diff is slipping if it's two turns loose.
As you use your car and activate the diffs, the balls wear tracks into the rings. This accounts for the looseness unless your diff really did slip two turns. You want to make sure your thrust assembly is as friction free as possible with good parts and lots of grease. If the rings get the tracks you need to take up the slack by tightening it. Nobody know what happens when a diff slips; you could be making lots of heat which will weaken the locking teenut, which could be why your diff is two turns loose, but I made that up because I don't want to know what happens when a diff slips.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Once you wear tracks in the rings its going to start to feel gritty and need a rebuild. I use my diffs until they start to feel gritty then rebuild them, the gritty feeling is due to the tracks in the rings though.

[Sharkey]

its also from the balls wearing so they are no longer round. they would start to look like small pebbles, not diff balls.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Hmm my stock tires look like that but a little more ripped up after 5 break-in tanks going no faster than a little over half throttle and lower than that for most of the tanks. I think its just due to the power of the engine, Im running a sirio and your running a pixi (right?) which is comparable in power. Mabey you should try running a harder compound? I dont really know that much about this because Im used to running foams on carpet.

I doubt it has anything to do with this but mabey you should run the upper arms in the inner holes, I think the outer holes are only for very slippery conditions.


those were the tires that came with the kit.i tried some duratrax tires and killed those in one tank.i cant run foams cuz it tears them apart in half a lap.

it handles real bad with the arms in the inner holes.

[Tee]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Once you wear tracks in the rings its going to start to feel gritty and need a rebuild. I use my diffs until they start to feel gritty then rebuild them, the gritty feeling is due to the tracks in the rings though.

You can look at it like that, but if you can manage to make the tracks without making the pits in them or the out of round balls or most importantly the gritty feel, then it will only wear so far. That's because the ball is acting like a point when there is no track making it really easy to form a track (very high psi at point of contact), then once the track is formed, the ball contacts the track along the walls of the ball shaped trough formed. Then you will have more ball traction because of the greater area touched and the diff grease will last much longer since it's not being worked so hard.

[Sharkey]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
those were the tires that came with the kit.i tried some duratrax tires and killed those in one tank.i cant run foams cuz it tears them apart in half a lap. it handles real bad with the arms in the inner holes.

the problem with your tires is to much power on cheaper tires. you need to run a high quality belted tire (sorex, yokomo, ect) with a stiff moulded insert (i like hpi green or blue).

rubber tires wont last long with a high powered motor. after a while, they will just loose all traction and you will slide around a lot. thats why i run foams. foam tires will last on a track if you have the right ones. now you said that they rip aparts after a lap. what brand, width and compound were you running???its possible they were way to soft for the track. i use jaco nitro shoes, 26mm front and 30mm rear, 45 shore on the front and 40 shore on the rear. the rears will wear out quickly, about 2x faster than the front. a local racer suggested trying something, buying 3 pairs of tires at a time, 1 pair front and 2 pair rears, and swap the rears after every 2 runs. this way the front tires get worn eavenly with all the rears, and you almost dont need to true them (just to take the cone out).

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
Cool, I look forward to seeing the pictures. I didn't know anything about CF patterns so thanks for the info. On mine, the whole combination is super stiff. When I was building mine, everything fit perfectly...almost. The problem I had was with the engine side brace. It fit the car fine but when I went to install the Centax clutch, it didnt fit. They didn't bother to design it to fit with their own clutch so I had to grind down the brace. Then I installed the engine and their rear arm mount is to big to fit with the Centax clutch. Again, two pieces of their own equipment didnt work together!

dont know if youve seen it but.... kfactory has released a rear arm mount that is for use with centax equipped ntc3's..:cool:

[RCTime]

Originally posted by Sharkey
the problem with your tires is to much power on cheaper tires. you need to run a high quality belted tire (sorex, yokomo, ect) with a stiff moulded insert (i like hpi green or blue).

rubber tires wont last long with a high powered motor. after a while, they will just loose all traction and you will slide around a lot. thats why i run foams. foam tires will last on a track if you have the right ones. now you said that they rip aparts after a lap. what brand, width and compound were you running???its possible they were way to soft for the track. i use jaco nitro shoes, 26mm front and 30mm rear, 45 shore on the front and 40 shore on the rear. the rears will wear out quickly, about 2x faster than the front. a local racer suggested trying something, buying 3 pairs of tires at a time, 1 pair front and 2 pair rears, and swap the rears after every 2 runs. this way the front tires get worn eavenly with all the rears, and you almost dont need to true them (just to take the cone out).

My stock tires wore the exact same way, and I wasn't driving it too hard, and I "only" have a CV-RX. So I'm not sure it's a power thing. I got some belted X-Patterns, and although they don't grip quite as well as the V-Rages did, they are wearing much better.

[Sharkey]

the v rage tires wear quick. i have almost worn mine out on my electric car in 10 packs, and i only have a 15 turn.

hpi x-pattern arent what i consider a "high quality" tire. i have run them before. traction is minimal, and they wear fast. they were a hot tire years ago, but that was back when high performance motors were less than 1hp. today with motors well over 1hp, (or even a 1hp motor) they dont last long.

you need high quality belted racing slick, such as sorex, yokomo, or even hpi belted slicks.

[RCTime]

Originally posted by Sharkey
the v rage tires wear quick. i have almost worn mine out on my electric car in 10 packs, and i only have a 15 turn.

hpi x-pattern arent what i consider a "high quality" tire. i have run them before. traction is minimal, and they wear fast. they were a hot tire years ago, but that was back when high performance motors were less than 1hp. today with motors well over 1hp, (or even a 1hp motor) they dont last long.

you need high quality belted racing slick, such as sorex, yokomo, or even hpi belted slicks.

Yeah, when I actually start to race, I'll probably go with slicks or even foams, although I hear foams require a lot of work. I have heard good things about the Advan A038s, but no one had them in stock so I bought the X-Pats. They're not the best tires I'm sure, but they work for now.

[POKeY]

Posted by RCtime:
Yeah, when I actually start to race, I'll probably go with slicks or even foams

When you decide to start racing go to the actual track and see what kind of tires are being used.

Where I'm at we use slicks (I prefer Take-Off's or Sorex). Some "fast guys" from a couple towns over came to race with us one night and pretty much laughed at the fact we use slicks. We warned them that foams don't like our pavement and they said, "Well, you just don't know how to use them right, or you don't know how to set-up your cars for foams." After the first two heats, they were in the hobby shop buying some slicks, lol.

Good luck-

jeremy

[Sharkey]

if there is a ton of bite, and some heat in the pavment, you need real hard foams. those guys likely didnt have them. on a real high bite track, id run 50 fronts and 45 rears.

as you can see, i swear by foams. after wearing some rubber tires out in 10 tanks (sorex 36r slicks, hpi green inserts) i went looking for an alternative. it just was getting real expensive real fast replacing rubber tires after every night at the track (i run 2x a week).

[TC3Kamikaze]

I'd say both types of tires have a place in racing. Reason I run foams they are quite a bit cheaper where I get em With foams just go up or down a shore to get good bite. Rubber tires you have to worry about compounds and inserts.
TC3

[Distro]

Its jsut the opposite at my track, you run rubber tires your easily going to be 2 seconds off the pace.

[nitrodude_1]

how fast dose your cars go and is it worth having one for street bashing

[TC3Kamikaze]

Had mine clocked at 54 mph with the Hyper .15 in it. Haven't checked it with the sirio though. I wouldn't use it for bashing considering price, a hpi or something along that line might be better.
TC3

[Sharkey]

mine was 58mph with my novarossi/hpi evo 2. that motor is dead now, and i just boight a rossi pixi black (silver head, non turbo. the 1.6hp one). i cant even imagine how fast this thing will be now.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Sharkey
mine was 58mph with my novarossi/hpi evo 2. that motor is dead now, and i just boight a rossi pixi black (silver head, non turbo. the 1.6hp one). i cant even imagine how fast this thing will be now.



same engine im running.dont know how fast mine is yet,but its the fastest car at the LHS.make sure you turn the head around,unless you figure out how to keep the exhaust connector from hitting the head you'll have to grind the 2 bottom fins cuz it hit the exhzust and cuts the rubber connector.it was also a pain to start for about a gallon of fuel,after 1 1/2 gallons it still has a strong pinch at TDC and still a little hard to start.the pixi has plenty of power so you can the same gears i run without problems.im running 20/54 17/48

[Sharkey]

i got the head on so it lines up with the block. id like it sideways, but the exaust hits it and im not cutting that beautifull head up!!! i dont seem to have trouble starting it. im using an ae box with 2 1800 stick packs, and it spins the thing over like a top. (but there is still "to much"compression)

so far i havent wound the car out in 2nd gear, but its got a ton of power. i have 8 tanks through it, and at 204 degrees, its just nasty. i think i will need to gear the car a bit harder, but ill see once i get it leaned down and top it out in 2nd.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Sharkey
i got the head on so it lines up with the block. id like it sideways, but the exaust hits it and im not cutting that beautifull head up!!! i dont seem to have trouble starting it. im using an ae box with 2 1800 stick packs, and it spins the thing over like a top. (but there is still "to much"compression)



you have to turn the head sideways or it will overheat,i was having an overheating problem with the body on untill i turned and cut the head.i use the AE box with a 12 volt battery and still had a hard time starting it.

heres a pic of mine.

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres a pic of where i cut my head,its barely noticable

[frank13]

same engine im running.dont know how fast mine is yet,but its the fastest car at the LHS.make sure you turn the head around,unless you figure out how to keep the exhaust connector from hitting the head you'll have to grind the 2 bottom fins cuz it hit the exhzust and cuts the rubber connector.it was also a pain to start for about a gallon of fuel,after 1 1/2 gallons it still has a strong pinch at TDC and still a little hard to start.the pixi has plenty of power so you can the same gears i run without problems.im running 20/54 17/48


how are you running that gear combo ,, am i missing something

[Sharkey]

yea i was kinda wondering about that gearing combo.

im going to figure out a way around cutting the head, as i just cant butcher the thing up. i will get around it somehow.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by frank13
same engine im running.dont know how fast mine is yet,but its the fastest car at the LHS.make sure you turn the head around,unless you figure out how to keep the exhaust connector from hitting the head you'll have to grind the 2 bottom fins cuz it hit the exhzust and cuts the rubber connector.it was also a pain to start for about a gallon of fuel,after 1 1/2 gallons it still has a strong pinch at TDC and still a little hard to start.the pixi has plenty of power so you can the same gears i run without problems.im running 20/54 17/48


how are you running that gear combo ,, am i missing something

sorry,i messed it up.its actually supposed to say 21/54 27/48.

[Clan O'Riley]

i have got a trx 2.5 motor from a s-maxx and i was wondering if i could drop it in my ntc3. this thing is crazy fast in my s-maxx. i dont race just drive around a parking lot. if that engine can power my s-maxx to alost 40 mph and it weighs some where around 10 lbs. the how fast do u think it maka a 5 lbs car go? just a thought:rolleyes:

[N2OSupra]

im having problems with my tires wearing fast/unevenly also

i ran a 1/2 practice main on a short, tight technical track on the stock setup and the tires are wearing unevenly....you can see that they almost look like V's:D :eek:

can anyone recommend for me a good tire/insert combo for a short tight technical track with medium-high bite conditions and the occasional ever so slight dust with usual track temps of ~100-120???

also, my car is pushing bad on power coming out of the corners....im going to run 6 degrees caster up front and do that extra washer under the servo saver spring....or should i just skip that and go straight to the diff?

[Sharkey]

clan:

i think the 2.5 will fit, im just not sure on the crank. i havent had a chance to compare the ips shaft crank to an sg crank, so im not sure if they are the same. ill do some looking to find out.

supra:

what tires and inserts are you running??? how much camber and toe??? what motor are you running??? i personaly recomend foams. they will hook better, and last longer. if you dont want to go foams, i recomend sorex 36r for a start, with hpi green inserts. and i think the push might be bad tires as well. the wheels will turn, but there is no bite so the car will go straight, also contributing to the tire wear. try some good tires first before you change everything in the car.

[N2OSupra]

well usually i run my nitro rs4 racer but ive had my NTC3 for a while and finally got a chance to run it so its on the recommended setup with the V-Rage tires

i only ran the car for a 1/2 hour main and im running a OS .12 CV-X....and yes thats not a typo....ill strap in a more powerful one when i get a box that can start the NTC3
i thought you can only use foams on high bite conditions on a prepped surface???....my track is somewhat medium-high with some very light dust once in a blue moon

i would ask the pros of the track but ummm i am one of the pros:D
its a temporary track we make out of a nice size of asphalt
and everyone almost uses the V-Rage, so that way its like a handout and were forced to tune the car to the track conditions...sorta like nascar....its gets very competitive:)

[N2OSupra]

as for foams, dont you have to true them or do something to them before you can use them????
sorry, its been a while since i read up on R/C

i could try foams, what do you recommend?where can i get them?

also these sorex tires...where can i get them?

[Sharkey]

there is your problem, the v-rage tires. i burnt them off on my electric car in 10 runs. associated made a mistake including those with such a high performance car, they should have included good slicks, or foams.

anyways, foam tires dont need to be trued. i never true my tires and dont have a probelm. to combat the tires wear (the rear wears twice as fast as the front, causing the front of the car to be overdriven) i buy 1 pair of front tires, and 2 pairs of rears, and swap the rears every 2 runs. this keeps you from having to true them. you dont have to do this, and it does cost more to begin, but saves you money in the long run. i also run a parking lot track that is blown off every few times we run, and i dont have any problems with dust. foams will hook well on low bite tracks, better than rubber imho.

i use jaco nitro shoes, 45 shore front, and 40 shore rear. you lhs should be able to get some in for you. if you dont want to run foams (since you dont have a ton of power to hook, it might not be needed), any high quality slick should work well. definitly better than the v-rage.


ok guys, i fixed the problem with the head on my pixi. i took the header off and drilled 2 new holes for the spring, so the header sits closer to paralell with the chassis. i also bent the hanger to fit better. i used a moulded axaust coupler and 2 fairly thin tie straps to hold it. the pipe doesnt hit the ground when the chassis is compressed on that side, and the coupler doesnt hit the head.

[N2OSupra]

Ok thanks for the help

any recommendations on slicks and a link to get them at?

Thanks!:)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by N2OSupra
as for foams, dont you have to true them or do something to them before you can use them????
sorry, its been a while since i read up on R/C

i could try foams, what do you recommend?where can i get them?

also these sorex tires...where can i get them?

Once you try foam, you will never go back to rubber, so please try that on your own risk.

Foam for NTC3 are really depends on your shocks/springs/swaybar setting.......but lately, I use 40/40 all around for temperature around 100 and above (TRACK temperature) not actually air temperature

If any lower....try 37 rear and 40 front or 35 rear 37 front....most of the TC required more REAR trackion then front trackion.

Brand like Ellegi, fast tires are good to use....brand such as NITRO SHOES does have good quality as well, however, I have big problem with their RIMS, they are like the NTC3 bumper....so easy to break.

Besides....one set of foams can last you 2 race days, and they can be as low as $26 per set............$26 can only buy you a pair of rubber with inserts.

And you don't need to TRUE the foams, they are pre-trued, and ready to race (ppl true their tires usually really know a lot about racing and want to get the MAX perfomance, money is no subject to those...)

[TC3Kamikaze]

I have to agree with Rookie on the nitro shoes rims. Gone through a few pairs thanks to small hits. I run fast tires and they hold up a lot better. If your going foam and want to save some money get them from Hong Kong. I get em for 8 to 9 dollars a pair sure beats 20 to 30.
TC3

[N2OSupra]

thanks for all the replies

i must might try the foams:D

hong kong eh???? do you have a link for the foams from hong kong, and are those nitro shoes, ellegi, or some other brand?

Thanks Again!

[Rookie Solara]

Usually, not too many ppl would like to share that 'LINK" for others to save some bucks, but again, you are the NTC3 family, so....what the heck. (check your PM)

If broken rims are what you concern.....use the DISH, most TOP guy use dish due to the same factor, it looks bad, and hard to adjust your camber when the rims are ON, but.....it is almost impossible to break.

[celly]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Usually, not too many ppl would like to share that 'LINK" for others to save some bucks, but again, you are the NTC3 family, so....what the heck. (check your PM)

If broken rims are what you concern.....use the DISH, most TOP guy use dish due to the same factor, it looks bad, and hard to adjust your camber when the rims are ON, but.....it is almost impossible to break.

Dude, really not that big if a secret... Look on ebay, there are 2 people that sell Nitro shoes for 10$, and I have ordered from both, and they are legit...

22$ shipped from hong kong for a set of 2... can't beat that with a 10 foot pole...

[TC3Kamikaze]

Here's just a few places I deal with. Hobbynet (http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/english/hobbynet.html) Control Centre (http://controlcentre.rctech.net/) RCmodel (http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/)
All have good prices and shipping is within reason.
TC3

[scottericsonon]

wich is going to last me longer?foams or rubbers?

i went through the stock set on my NTC3 in less than 10 tanks

which brands have a good usage/traction/price ratio?
and finally where to buy?

thanx scott

[N2OSupra]

maybe you guys can explain to me when and where to use what shores when it comes to foams

i have no clue...again, ive been out of the hobby for a couple of months so i guess i missed out on some good info:(

and with the foams you have to use the swaybars right???

i just dont have the money right now to get the front blade type roll bar, can i just use the one for the rear and purchase another one and use that for the front??? god i sound like such a newb:p

oh yea as far as my V-Rages'...i looked at them again today, and i guess i need glasses because they are wearing pretty nicely, not like i previously stated...the only one that is the tiny bit ackward is the right rear...i think i had too little camber in it:o

[Sharkey]

shore ratings are the density of the foam. the higher the number, the harder the tire. use a higher number for hotter track conditions. i use 45 fronts, and 40 rears for all the time.

you dont need to use swaybars. i got the front blade swaybar, and it realy made a big differance. i wouldnt run a rear swaybar, i find they cause you to lose a lot of rear traction.

i set my car up with the setup in the back of the book it realy makes the car handle like its on rails.

[N2OSupra]

so what would be better to use on a track with track temps of ~100-120???
40 Shore???

[jallen]

i've more or less got things narrowed down to a choice between 2 engines:

OS .12 CVRX
FANTOM FR '03 .12

does anyone have any suggestions on which is better and why?i think that i know what everyone's going to say, but i'll ask anyway.

i've also got a price request in for an rb c12 but i'm afraid that the price will be to high.

just for background info., i'm searching for the fastest engine that i can find that is: 1) pull start, 2) ROAR leagal and 3) under $200 --the farther under the better. i plan to mostly just play with the car and don't want to fuss with a starter box right now, but want to be able to jump in a local club race if i really get bit by the bug.

any suggestions that anyone can make would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Supra
NitroRC has some good info on their site on foams and rubber tires. Check em out here NitroRC (http://www.nitrorc.com). I run without any swaybars and have no problems. It'll depend on the track conditions if it's needed.
jallen
I'd go for either engine both have good power for pullstarts. The fantom would be on the top of the list though. It makes some good power and for the price it's hard to beat. Since a pullstart is desired I don't have any other suggestions. I have a rear exhaust kit with a sirio .12 that I run.
TC3

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by jallen
i've more or less got things narrowed down to a choice between 2 engines:

OS .12 CVRX
FANTOM FR '03 .12


It depends on your track or your needs. I have both of those engines. The CVRX is more of a torque engine, the Fantom has more top speed. I run the Fantom.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

What temperature should my OS .12 tr be tuned to? I've heard 210 and 280. That's a big difference, and don't want to burn out my motor.

Thank you

[celly]

Originally posted by jallen


OS .12 CVRX
FANTOM FR '03 .12



Right here. Right Now.

I have ran both these engines. CVR all the way. The fantom is a cheap hype engine, with quality that far undermines the quality somone should expect from an engine manufacture.

The CVRX is, cheaper (Now < 100$ on tower) Has more part avilability, and if properly tuned will run circles around the fantom. I tuned, DeTuned, ReTuned, the fantom, and even after Switching Fuels, Changing to a "Torque" pipe, purchasing big bore headers... This engine still failed to impress me.

I was one of the first people to jump on the Fantom Bandwagon, with both a FR15 and FR12... Search the web, I was their #1 Fan... Then, I got to play withs ome real engines, OS, NR, RB, etc... And realized, the Fantom was faster than a .12 ss (HPI) but not a shining star...

Here is the simple truth. If you wanna drive in a straight line, and get top speed, The fantom might be cool. But when your bashing, or racing, you need short to medium -- Hardcore -- power bursts to get the most out of your gears, and get you around corners and straightaways... None of this "Well, tooth down, and the torque comes at high RPM's... blah blah" crap excuses...

The fantom, is also a mildly poor built engine. When I recieved mine, the Exhaust flange was warped almost a full MM, and the Throttle arm is a cheap piece of aluminum (Replace this with the duratrax steel one, ASAP!) The Shaft threading was crushed, so I had to take 2mm off of it to be able to get the flywheel on.. (Keep in mind this was for an HPI at the time)

The one plus about Fantom, is ther support is really second to none. If the price is right (and the engine isn't for racing) I'd buy another fantom, because they are one of the few companies in the industry that really cares, and will work with you. When my throttle arm broke, and caused a WOT run away, they offered to take the engine and examine it to make sure it wasn't damaged, and fix anything for only the cost of shipping. Not many companies would do that.

But for a 100$ .12 OS CVR is #1 in the class.

If you have any specific questions on these engines.. PM or IM me.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
What temperature should my OS .12 tr be tuned to? I've heard 210 and 280. That's a big difference, and don't want to burn out my motor.


You don't tune an engine to a specific temperature, you tune it within a range of temperatures. One OS TR may run best at around 230, another 250, both putting out the same performance, the same day, time, etc. Another day, both engines may run best at 245. Just make sure they aren't too lean and you should be fine between 210 and 280.

[N2OSupra]

i read the article about foam tires but im still not sure on which shores to go with....

i race on a medium-high bite asphalt track, with a very little to almost no dust with track temps of ~100-120

should i go with:

45 front
40 rear
or
40 all around???

TIA

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Thank you!

[Sharkey]

always go a harder tire on the front. you need more traction on the rear than the front with our 4wd cars.

run 45 front and 40 rears. you are also likely thinking about widths. get 26mm fronts and 30mm rears. some manufacturors make 2mm offset rear tires, but this isnt needed on the nitro tc3.

26mm wide, 45 shore fronts
30mm wide, 0 offset, 40 shore rears.

[frank13]

well when it comes with tires,, 45 fronts and 40 rear work ,, in most circumstances,, however this weekend 40/40 worked even better ,,, but last weekend ,, they didnt,, get a couple sets of foams to try out,,and you will be surprised how well they work,, and try to switch them while pracitcing on a certain day , one may work better ,,

[N2OSupra]

Originally posted by Sharkey
always go a harder tire on the front. you need more traction on the rear than the front with our 4wd cars.

run 45 front and 40 rears. you are also likely thinking about widths. get 26mm fronts and 30mm rears. some manufacturors make 2mm offset rear tires, but this isnt needed on the nitro tc3.

26mm wide, 45 shore fronts
30mm wide, 0 offset, 40 shore rears.

thats what i was going to go with...just wanted a confirmation

Thanks!:D

[scottericsonon]

does anybody know what size the screws that mount the shocks to the tower are?

the ones acc give you plastic nuts for are the ones im talking about

i clipped a curb and lost the little plastic nut so im going to buy real lock-nuts for them

tia scott

[Sharkey]

i belive they are 4-40.

[ICULKN]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
Here's just a few places I deal with. Hobbynet (http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/english/hobbynet.html) Control Centre (http://controlcentre.rctech.net/) RCmodel (http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/)
All have good prices and shipping is within reason.
TC3

Thanks for the info just orderd tires will be here soon.
New to the form but not new to racing.
We race every Saturday and we have 40-50 people every weekend.
Also ordered the aluminum dif cases.
Well the weekend is almost here.



NTC3 ROLLERS:p

[TC3Kamikaze]

No problem glad to help. I heard mixed reviews on the diff cases. Let us know how your they work out for you.
TC3

[scottericsonon]

what r the best all-around gears for the 2 speed?

im running a fantom fr12 and id like fairly quick accel and hi top speed

i 90% parking lot bash and 10 percent "fun"race

tia

scott

[X-garage]

I got a small crack on the K-factory gas tank. Do you have an idea how to glue it?

[Sharkey]

just gear it so it runs out of rpm when before you reach the parking lot. i wouldnt worry about gearing to much when your bashing, id just worry about it when you have a friend beating you.

i just got some gearing for my new rossi motor. im going from stock 22/54 first, 26/50 2nd up to 23/54 and 27/50. i finaly got it all broken in (well 1/2 a gallon, trinity says you can race them after that) and it flies. iot runs out of rpm just a little sooner than id like it to, and it always shifts through the infeild, so i though id bump it a bit.

as for glueing your fuel tank, the best way is to buy a new one and send the old one to me:D. ive glued fuel tanks before. if its a crack, try ca glue and just put some automotive silicone over the crank. if it blew a small chunk out, you might get away with hot glue and silicone. if not, you can just send it to me:D (can anyone figure out what i want for my car???)

[TC3Kamikaze]

I run 21/27 54/48 with my Sirio, top speed is where it's at.
How's the Rossi holding up Sharkey? I might get one when I plop the cash for the R40. Might be awhile since my full scale projects come first.
TC3

[ICULKN]

I also run 21/27 48/54 and it is fast with my MR12.
The diff cases will be in the car for our Saturday race.
Let you know how they work.
We moved to Saturday night raceing it's just to HOT in Austin TEXAS.


NTC3 ROLLERS:D

[FantomTC3]

what gearing would be best for a NTC3 with a Fantom F15 engine to get the full speed out of the engine?

[X-garage]

Originally posted by Sharkey
just gear it so it runs out of rpm when before you reach the parking lot. i wouldnt worry about gearing to much when your bashing, id just worry about it when you have a friend beating you.

i just got some gearing for my new rossi motor. im going from stock 22/54 first, 26/50 2nd up to 23/54 and 27/50. i finaly got it all broken in (well 1/2 a gallon, trinity says you can race them after that) and it flies. iot runs out of rpm just a little sooner than id like it to, and it always shifts through the infeild, so i though id bump it a bit.

as for glueing your fuel tank, the best way is to buy a new one and send the old one to me:D. ive glued fuel tanks before. if its a crack, try ca glue and just put some automotive silicone over the crank. if it blew a small chunk out, you might get away with hot glue and silicone. if not, you can just send it to me:D (can anyone figure out what i want for my car???)

You want a broken fuel tank?

[Sharkey]

id like actualy like a non broken one, but just cant justify the price.

the rossi is great, it kills 1/8 scale buggies with 2 speeds (they go super fast, one clocked at 68mph). the thing is just ausome, and i havent even got it tuned yet. im racing this saturday, so ill let you guys know how i do.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Originally posted by ICULKN
I also run 21/27 48/54 and it is fast with my MR12.
The diff cases will be in the car for our Saturday race.
Let you know how they work.
We moved to Saturday night raceing it's just to HOT in Austin TEXAS.


NTC3 ROLLERS:D

I can't blame ya guys running night races. I'm south of ya and it ain't no fun with triple digit temps. Wish I had time to race but I'm so backlog with work here at the shop. Oh well there always winter racing.
TC3

[R3VoLuTiOn]

wuts the top speed of the ntc3 rtr???

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Sharkey
id like actualy like a non broken one, but just cant justify the price.

the rossi is great, it kills 1/8 scale buggies with 2 speeds (they go super fast, one clocked at 68mph). the thing is just ausome, and i havent even got it tuned yet. im racing this saturday, so ill let you guys know how i do.

a buddy of mine had to toss his rossi a while back.... the fuel inlet nipple had a leak on it and it would spike too lean. needless to say keep your eyes on it for any leaks around the carb area. other than that it was the fastest thing i ever saw on a ntc3, its insane. remeber to adjust you brakes a bit more cuz your gonna be braking hard. (have a new set of brake pads handy)

[Sharkey]

before i even thought about putting mine in my car i pulled it right apart, inspected everything (ok, you caught me, i just wanted to see inside the thing) and sealed everything up. i didnt see the needle valve leaking, but i can tell when a motor spikes lean, i had it on my last one. i guess i should just take it out and seal it up.

the thing is blindingly fast.

[hpiracer2r]

hey guys, wow alot of post. I just read thru the last 10 pages on v. 4.0 and LEARNED alot. I have a ntc3 on the way. Its going to be a basher and occassional tracker (just go on practice nights for fun). I ams just wondering what should I carry in my pit box as extra parts. I know fuel line,aa batteries, glow plugs, and extra battery for my glow plug starter. any thing along those lines? what are the weakest parts i should pick up.


feel free to donate little things if you think i will need them and you have alot. (all the little things add up and shipping on them sucks because they cost less then the shipping if you know what im talking about.)

well just getting my name on this thread so I can try and keep up. alright cya.

[Sharkey]

just the usual things. a-arms, pivot balls, shockshafts, hingepins, ect. make sure you get some spare castor clips, cause you will lose one. if you like to have a great handling car all the time, get a spring kit. i find my car is a bit sensitive to differant track conditions, and a spring change always fixes it.

[NTC3Fan]

Hi guys been a while since i've been heere....

Quick Q
Which screws on Tower are the correct ones to replace on my NTC3?/
I think someone mentioned HPI TI Screws but whare r they on Tower??

Btw heres my Car now......
http://forum.racesimcentral.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=1037313

[hpiracer2r]

hey guys, I just found out that i will need to get a pull starter once i get my car., I cannot find it anywhere on tower... but dont reeally wann pay 7 bucks shipping on it anyways so if you have one you could sell me please email me hpiracer2r@yahoo.com. i need a pull start for a nitro tc3 rtr .12 engine thanks

[fastharry]

Originally posted by X-garage
I got a small crack on the K-factory gas tank. Do you have an idea how to glue it?


how'd you get that crack in the tank?..

[X-garage]

Originally posted by fastharry
how'd you get that crack in the tank?..

I don't really know what was happened, but I cant get the fuel to stay in the tank. I tried super glue, JB welde and shoe glue....nothing works.

[Sharkey]

Originally posted by hpiracer2r
hey guys, I just found out that i will need to get a pull starter once i get my car., I cannot find it anywhere on tower... but dont reeally wann pay 7 bucks shipping on it anyways so if you have one you could sell me please email me hpiracer2r@yahoo.com. i need a pull start for a nitro tc3 rtr .12 engine thanks

the car comes with a pullstarter, do you by chance mean a glow starter???

[fastharry]

Originally posted by X-garage
I don't really know what was happened, but I cant get the fuel to stay in the tank. I tried super glue, JB welde and shoe glue....nothing works.

the reason I ask is that mine cracked also...2nd time out..no side hits...I have the K brace installed...

I'm sending it back to trinity....I'd give them a call..

I'll call them tommorrow and tell them what you said..don;'t fix it till then,,

[X-garage]

Originally posted by fastharry
the reason I ask is that mine cracked also...2nd time out..no side hits...I have the K brace installed...

I'm sending it back to trinity....I'd give them a call..

I'll call them tommorrow and tell them what you said..don;'t fix it till then,,
I will try sending it back to trinity later this week. I have the side brace installed as well. Just like you said I did not get a hit or anything. I was running the last qualify and finished 5 minutes and put the car back then when I started the final my gas tank could not hold the fuel.

[frank13]

ok guys , i need help very very fast ,,, i have the kawahara clutch fo rmy ntc3 and i lost the instructions, ,, if some has a set please and i beg you , please, email me a copy as soon as possible,,

or if you can walk me through it on line , feel free to im me at fcsntjg77


thansk alot in advance,,

frank13

[hpiracer2r]

hey sharkey, i mean pull starter... I have a few glow starters. but the car that i bought has a broken pullstarter string... and until i get a starter box (3 weeks) im gunna need the pull starter... so if any of you guys moved to starter boxes and took off the pull start on your tc3 rtr post here and make a little money on it.

[Sharkey]

oh ok, it just sounds funny someone asking for a pullstarter when they buy a car.

anyways the ae pullstart isnt to expensive. if the string broke, then you could disect it and use fishing line, or get a new string for it. it can be tricky winding the spring back up (ive done it many times, and thats why i went to non p/s), but it could save you a bit of cash. if the spring is broken, you pretty much need a new pullstarter.

[hpiracer2r]

its just the string... ill try fishing line since i got some... alright thanks for the help.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im using the stock pipe setup and I recall hearing on this forum that the stock hedar is way to long and that you get better performance if you cut it shorter. I heard that you can tune for performance by running hedars of diffrent lengths. Im running a roar legal sirio how much do you reccomend that I cut off? I have a pipe cutter that will be perfect for cutting it and much easier to use than my dremal.

[theneck]

Now for some reason my ntc3 will not shift properly anymore and all i did is change the rims and tires. what do you guys think?

[fastharry]

I think its coincidence..

[HooK]

i'd like to buy k-factory chassis for my ntc3?..what do you guys think?...is it stronger than the std chassis?...

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Im using the stock pipe setup and I recall hearing on this forum that the stock hedar is way to long and that you get better performance if you cut it shorter. I heard that you can tune for performance by running hedars of diffrent lengths. Im running a roar legal sirio how much do you reccomend that I cut off? I have a pipe cutter that will be perfect for cutting it and much easier to use than my dremal.

Pro3 i also saw that.....
Some guy still put up a link to the site and showed how much he cut off....

I was thinking if should do the same 2....

I'll see if i can find anything here

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by theneck
Now for some reason my ntc3 will not shift properly anymore and all i did is change the rims and tires. what do you guys think? Well if the new rims and tires are a diffrent diameter you are actually changing your gearing which can affect the shift point.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Think this might help with the header length questions. Paris Racing (http://www.parisracing.com/pipelength.htm)
TC3

[Sharkey]

i think i will need to cut the header on my tc3. i find that my rossi pixi has way to much bottom end, and it almost undrivable from a standstill, and lacks a bit of top end. it gets up on the rpm fast, but once it gets up, it doesnt seem to climb to peak rpm.

anyways, what are you guys running for gearing with high high powered motors (like my pixi)??? im running the 54-23, 50-27, and it doesnt seem to pull right to the end of the straight. when it shifts, it seems to be at the top of second gear almost instantly. i have a 4 tooth split between 1st and 2nd, do you think i can get away with a 6 tooth split without the motor bogging down to much???

[PremierRC]

Hey guys i have a problem while braking. When i brake the car turns and does a 180. How do i keep it braking evenly? thanks for the help guys

[Pro3/nmt105]

Either your tweak is off or you just need to lighten up on the brakes, the car will slow down faster if you apply the brake slowly than if you nail it and come to a skidding halt.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
Think this might help with the header length questions. Paris Racing (http://www.parisracing.com/pipelength.htm)
TC3
I already knew that I was just wondering what other people have done, I know plenty of people have the same engine as me.

[Dirt Pilot]

I just picked up a used RTR NTC3 about 2 weeks ago. I finally sat down tonight and tore everything down to check out what needed fixing. Other than a few bent pivot balls, everything seems alright. I'm really just looking for some basic setup suggestions to start out with (springs, oil weight, piston size, suspension settings). It's mainly going to be ran at revelation raceway (http://www.revrace.com) in Ontario, CA if anyone knows what track it is. This is my first on-road car so I'm not sure how to explain the track conditions since I've never driven on it. Also what should be some of the first hop ups and spare parts I should buy for this? Thanks.

Jason

[TC3Kamikaze]

Pro 3
Right now with the sirio I have about a quarter inch cut off the header. It's running great with this setup. I went ahead and had a few headers that are cut at various lengths to try at different tracks. But a quarter inch seems best for me.
Dirt pilot
The big upgrades I went with was the steering bearings and RPM ballcups for the slop in the steering. The Fix for the case coming loose might be a good idea. I added longer screws to the cases and haven't had a problem yet. Of course some spares would be a good idea as well. I think there are a few setups on Associateds site for Rev raceway.
TC3

[Pro3/nmt105]

Thanks for the input TC3Kamikaze I think Ill cut off what you did, worst case senaro Ill have to buy a new header.

[Sharkey]

actualy, you dont need a new header. if you cut it to short, just increase the space between the header and pipe with a longer coupler.

[Dirt Pilot]

What exactly is "The Fix"? I mean, I've seen pictures of it, but all it looks like to me is a longer bolt that goes through the top of the shock tower to the diff case. If that is all it is, wouldn't you be able to find something like that at a hardware store?

[frank13]

the fix -- worth every dime , and more, i knocked it , and knocked it , and knocked it ,, but it works , simple

ti turnbuckles-- i dont wann aloose due to a bad turnbuckle,, -- i have my driving skill for that

carbon upgrade -- stiffer , and i have noticed less breakage

small setscrews drill into each suspension arm to hold my settings---done by ntc3nut,, and is beyond an awesoem idea,, holds setting so much better

blue shaft ---looks

blue input cup- more durable than plastic, but get the gh one , its cheap ,, and eventually will wear out , so its good it is cheap ,

alum brake block --just stronger, and looks great --goes with the blue bearing holder,

rpm bumper---stronger,

carbon fiber top plate--looks

front and rear blade sway bars---assist in tuning , was easier than the wire one to adjust

shiny cvds, --strength

blue axle spacers, ---looks

stainless screws/ti screws---looks

unobtanium shafts--smoother

centax clutch--- works great for me , i love it ,, simpel to use

lightewieght one way and two speed housing --acceleration

[hpiracer2r]

guys i just got my tcc2.. ITS VERY dirty... but in decent shape... i traded my micro rtr for a nitro tc3 rtr with 2 speed. Well i started cleaning it but then i got to the radio tray.... I dont have the stock hex wrenchs from the kit so couldnt get it off.... do if someone bought nicer hex drivers and still have allen keys please mail them to me... I only have on from my micro rs4 that works... it works on the smallest hexes...

I started cleaning with orange clean spaying... then wipped it down... then sprayed cotton swaps and cleans hard to reach spots... then wipes with cotton swabs... t his thing was cakes with dirt....

[ICULKN]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
Pro 3
Right now with the sirio I have about a quarter inch cut off the header. It's running great with this setup. I went ahead and had a few headers that are cut at various lengths to try at different tracks. But a quarter inch seems best for me.
Dirt pilot
The big upgrades I went with was the steering bearings and RPM ballcups for the slop in the steering. The Fix for the case coming loose might be a good idea. I added longer screws to the cases and haven't had a problem yet. Of course some spares would be a good idea as well. I think there are a few setups on Associateds site for Rev raceway.
TC3


Can you tell the difference with the cut?
More top end of low end?
The metal dif case worked out.
Just had to trim the inside.
We have our SWCS race in Austin this weekend.
I should have more info on the dif case after the race.
www.RCRCNT.com

NTC3 ROLLERS
:D

[PitStops]

Originally posted by Ford850
I just bought a new NTC-3 kit. What should be my first three hop-ups? Can anyone recomend a good set of tires for the NTC-3?

Thanks


if you are running rear exhaust buy the dual stage pipe

RPM front bumper

hi-speed servo for steering

steering rack bearing kit

and find the "fix" for the front shock tower
I would tell you where to find it but i had mine made before they sold one.



If you are gonna be racing there are certain parts you will want to keep extras in stock of

bearings to replace out hub bearings (seem to have an issue with those blowing out at our track)

extra ball cups RPM black and grays

Front and rear lower arms

hub carriers

shock tower and diff casing just in case.

[PitStops]

Originally posted by hpiracer2r
guys i just got my tcc2.. ITS VERY dirty... but in decent shape... i traded my micro rtr for a nitro tc3 rtr with 2 speed. Well i started cleaning it but then i got to the radio tray.... I dont have the stock hex wrenchs from the kit so couldnt get it off.... do if someone bought nicer hex drivers and still have allen keys please mail them to me... I only have on from my micro rs4 that works... it works on the smallest hexes...

I started cleaning with orange clean spaying... then wipped it down... then sprayed cotton swaps and cleans hard to reach spots... then wipes with cotton swabs... t his thing was cakes with dirt....

You can buy a nice set of allens from dynamite you need two things for a complete set for the ntc3

there is a 3 piece kit for 20 bucks that gives you the
.050
1/16th
and the 3/32
then you buy the 5/64th as a single and you are out a wopping 27-28 bucks total for all 4

[PitStops]

Originally posted by Dirt Pilot
What exactly is "The Fix"? I mean, I've seen pictures of it, but all it looks like to me is a longer bolt that goes through the top of the shock tower to the diff case. If that is all it is, wouldn't you be able to find something like that at a hardware store?

Dirt pilot,

What the "fix" actually is"

to small pices of aluminum tubing the drop through the two open holes on the shock tower, before you insert these you remove the 2 screws in the diff case. then find 2 longer screws that will drop into the tubing and with a small washer on top of the shock tower you want the screws to go down into the diff case (not too far mind you because there are screws coming for the bottom side as well) what i did is get screws that i knew were more then long enough and threaded them in till they stopped measured the remaining length backed the screw out and cut off the much and a hair more to keep the 2 screws from making contact)

What is does for you is gives you two more screws securing the tower to the diff thus making it more difficult to break in a crash.

Worth every penny. have yet to replace a tower since i put one on my car.

Though ours were built before they sold the fix same concept.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Dirt Pilot
What exactly is "The Fix"? I mean, I've seen pictures of it, but all it looks like to me is a longer bolt that goes through the top of the shock tower to the diff case. If that is all it is, wouldn't you be able to find something like that at a hardware store?

Nope u wont be able to find it at a hardware store...
They are specially milled.. i know for a fact cos i got some metal shavings in the bag with mine... :D

[NTC3Fan]

What are RD Logis Diff cases like???
I've seen them they look pretty good but how do they hold up??
I saw someone Post that the break into pieces

[shadowghost1]

How long has this car been out???? Does anyone know if they are making a TC4?

[TC3Kamikaze]

ICULKN
It gives me enough top end for how I run. I'm a speed freak :)
Hop Ups
I'd have to agree with everything all the guys put down. If I may suggest also get the newer design tank if you don't have it. Easier to tune an engine and a bit less splash when refueling.
Shadow
It's been out about a year now I believe and the TC4 is a rumor as far as I know. If it isn't I hope the bugs will be worked out.
TC3

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by shadowghost1
How long has this car been out???? Does anyone know if they are making a TC4?

There is a TC1 or TC2 before...? I think they just called it a TC3 a TC3.......like HPI's RS4.......there are no RS1 and RS2.

So the new name should be called TC3 Pro or TC3 "BETTER" or TC3 "Very good Edition".....LOL

[Pro3/nmt105]

Well I think they called it TC3 because they made the DS and Qualifier series before the TC3 and even though the DS and Qualifier werent toruing cars the TC3 was the third onroad car they made so they added the 3, at least thats my theory.

[Sharkey]

actualy, associated held a contest on what to name the new touring car (the electric tc3). some guy came up with tc3, cause associated had the b3 and t3 just out, so they thought it sounded good.

eventualy, AE will have a new electric car, but why change a winning car (both nitro and electric). im sure AE will come out with a factory team nitro tc3 thats full graphite, but not for a while yet.

[ICULKN]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
ICULKN
It gives me enough top end for how I run. I'm a speed freak :)
Hop Ups
I'd have to agree with everything all the guys put down. If I may suggest also get the newer design tank if you don't have it. Easier to tune an engine and a bit less splash when refueling.
Shadow
It's been out about a year now I believe and the TC4 is a rumor as far as I know. If it isn't I hope the bugs will be worked out.
TC3

If I run the Duel Chamber pipe will I see the difference in the top end with the 1/4 inch taken off? The track is huge so we get to open it up. I also am a speed freak. Is the tank worth the money? The race weekend is so close.


NTC3 ROLLERS:eek: :eek:

[Dirt Pilot]

How can you tell the difference between the new and old style tanks. I didn't even know they made a different one. Is their a big difference in price between the new tank and the K Factory tank? If I need to buy a new tank, I might as well just upgrade.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Dirt Pilot
How can you tell the difference between the new and old style tanks. I didn't even know they made a different one. Is their a big difference in price between the new tank and the K Factory tank? If I need to buy a new tank, I might as well just upgrade.

Most likely, if you purchase your NTC3 form late last year untill now....there is no way you can get the OLD desgned tank, the different between the new and old tank is the PRESSURE return nipple on top of the fuel cap.....new one has it, and the old one is right in front of the fuel pick up line at........all in all, the tank with the pressure nipple over the fuel cap is the ONE you want.

About the K-factory tank....if you think lower CG, better looking does matter to you.....get it, but the tank is like good $40 each, which is like 2.5 times of the AE tank..........I don't really think it does any kind of magic compare to the AE one, but ppl say the tank is stronger then the AE one........but recently, ppl has the K-factory tank still experienced the cracking problem like AE tank.....if both tank are still easy to crack.....$12 tanks suit me much better then.......

To improve the high end speed....change your gear to 48/27 combo on your second.....cut your header 1/4 to 1/2" short and bored inside or try the RD logic 1-piece pipe......I am using the AE dual chamber pipe with the pressure nipple on the SECOND chamber with no header mod........car is a rocket already (I don't need the car to go any faster....I like the car has more punch)

[TC3Kamikaze]

Yeah I wish the K Factory was cheaper. It's highway robbery here at 50 a pop. I forgot about moving the pressure line to the second chamber. Guess I'll have a go at it Since Rookie likes it :)
TC3

[shadowghost1]

I have been a monster truck fan for about a year now but its time to buy me a new on road, is the RTR for 299.99 worth it because it seems to have a little less than the kit as in parts and such. I have seen the newer mags say that the RTR has the 2 speed tranny in it. I still see that the kit mentions a few other things that the RTR doesnt. Does the kit come with the same motor as the RTR and why doesnt it come with a body (kit). Sorry for all of the questions but I feel the need for speed so if this car is worth it then I will purchase it. I wont be racing or any thing just hanging around on Night shift at work with a big parking lot calling my name. Is this car what I am looking for ( speed runs )?

[Sharkey]

the rtr is exactly that, rtr. it has a single speed tranny and the associated .12. the kit has no motor, radios or body, but it has a 2 speed, and a bunch of better stuff, and the plastic parts are moulded out of a tougher material.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by shadowghost1
I wont be racing or any thing just hanging around on Night shift at work with a big parking lot calling my name. Is this car what I am looking for ( speed runs )?

You have to choose only one.....(just hanging around) cannot be (speed runs)..........

RTR is perfect for you........Kit does not include ENGINE and radio equipment and receiver pack, and overall cost for the kit can be 2 times the price of the RTR.

[x2x]

Originally posted by torchedlh
mine took me about 6 hours to build. it was my second kit tho......

Umm mine took about 4 hours, I built it straight thru non stop. I believe my first ntc3 engine was the .12 cvrx already broken in.

xIIx
http://www.xfortress.net/ntc3.php

[Striker]

Is anyone selling jam nuts for the rear turnbuckles on the NTC3? Just wondering.

[fastharry]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3142356588

[KronicRacer]

love the ad..... its too funny:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Wouldnt want to be left Nutless!!!:D :p :D

[number11]

Just got me a pair of nuts. :D

[Dyingslow]

Does anyone have a problem with keeping the diff tight. No matter what I do or how I build the diff, It will loosen up after about 5 minutes of "hard" driving... And yes I built the diff as per the instructions, I re-torqued the diff after some running... Suggestions will be helpful! Is there a difference between the electric and nitor diffs?

Thanks,
Justin

[Distro]

You need to replace the nut on the diff, they do wear out. Changing the nut will fix the problem.

[Drive4fun]

I own a Nitro Tc3 RTR and i have tooken out the pull start and the plate because whenever i pulled it it kept on skipping every time i started to start the car. The gasket was damaged so i read that it needed to be replaced. Im on running low on time im leaving early tomorrow on a trip for the memorial day weekend and going there for about 4 nights and i want to take my car with me? the thing is i dont have an extra gasket can it be run without it? will it damage anything? What shall i do?

One more question to fix the skiping i dont have light oil on me can i use 30wt shock oil or can i use stealth diff lube from ae? This is for oiling the one way bearing. ok
Please reply A.S.A.P thank you

[X-garage]

Here is a resolution on the rear toe keep poping off.
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/GARAGE/picture_ETC/toecup.jpg
This is a better way to keep your shock tower in place and stronger...better than the fix...cost only 60¢..get those from Acehardware.
http://team.finishedart.com/sutti/GARAGE/picture_ETC/thefix.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

I think I will let the other to tell you the different between "THE FIX" and "YOUR FIX".............we had this covered "X" number of times early this year.

But again, as long as you like it....that is all good.:D

[KronicRacer]

its like a frekkin ghost town in this thread. ooo wait every one is focused on the r40:D j/p

[X-garage]

I just want to say bye to all NTC3 people. NTC3 has been my geat car to win many races, but I found my new love....HPI R40!

:D

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I'm running an OS .12 slide carb motor, with trinity 30% fuel. After every run, everything behind the front shock tower is covered in a black oily substance. Everything behind the motor is caked in the stuff. This is on the inside and outside of the body as well. I was under the impression that stuff was supposed to go out the exhaust. My exhaust was pointing out the body the entire time. Am I doing something wrong, or is this the way it is with a nitro vehicle?

I'm currently using power shot electric motor cleaner to clean my car after a run. Is there anything better? What is the best stuff to use on the body, inside and out?

[Sharkey]

part of the prblem is the associated tuned pipe. instead of having a fitting in the pipe, they got cheap and just drilled a hole in it for you to stuff the line into. whatever you do, it just wont seal up and spits stuff out of there.

[speedydave]

If you're running foam tires, it's probably a combination of oil and foam tire bits. When I used to race slot cars(which use foam rear tires), the entire back end of the body would be covered in a gooey black from the foam tires throwing bits up as they wear away.

[ElPolloDiablo]

also make sure the header is on good, I had a similar problem and it turns out my header was a touch crooked and was gettin oil all over the place.

[speed8081]

I just finished breaking in my engine... now trying to fine tune my engine and need some help.

I noticed that when I start the engine, the engine starts to revv up before I apply any throttle. The vehicle’s wheels spin continuously. How do I set the engine to low idle speed so that the clutch will disengage at low idle speeds and allow the engine to run without its wheels turning ?

Thanks :)

[Temjin006]

Anyone here try the 3Racing 4mm chassis? I was wonder if that is a good chassis. What chassis do u guys recommend?

About the exhaust, anyone here tryed the ofna and rdlogic one piece pipe sets?

[cbrguy]

Does anyone have a Fantom 15 in there TC3. I just threw one in my car and My throttle linkage will not work right. If anyone has one can you post a close up pic. Thanks...

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

I am in the process of building my first TC3 and started on the Diff's. Are they supposed to be very tight? The instructions state that the diff screw should be fully tightned and then backed off 1/2 turn.

This is not my first R/C car/truck. The T3 I have was a more free spinning diff. Thats why I ask the experts here.

Thanks

[Sharkey]

yes they are supposed to be tight like that. thats the purpose of the friction pads. it makes the diff tight like a gear diff filled with oil, but the ease of tuning of a ball diff. its likely one of the best ball diffs around.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
I'm running an OS .12 slide carb motor, with trinity 30% fuel. After every run, everything behind the front shock tower is covered in a black oily substance. Everything behind the motor is caked in the stuff. This is on the inside and outside of the body as well. I was under the impression that stuff was supposed to go out the exhaust. My exhaust was pointing out the body the entire time. Am I doing something wrong, or is this the way it is with a nitro vehicle?

I'm currently using power shot electric motor cleaner to clean my car after a run. Is there anything better? What is the best stuff to use on the body, inside and out?


also,check the fit of the header gasket......I'm using a RB gasket on mine..the TR gasket was too loose with the AE pipe..


Denatured alcohol is good to use......

[frank13]

hey harry , are you going to jackson regionals tomorrow ,, if so ,, what car you running ,

[fastharry]

hey frank..nope,have to work..

I've been running the R40,getting it ready for vegas...

I'm also building a new Super nitro for vegas also..

It was nice of you to ask though...

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Temjin006
Anyone here try the 3Racing 4mm chassis? I was wonder if that is a good chassis. What chassis do u guys recommend?



I have it, its a good chassis. Definately stronger then the original but I can't say it's any better. Personally, I think its weight makes it more controllable for a newbie driver, but it would be a deficit for a good driver.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by cbrguy
Does anyone have a Fantom 15 in there TC3. I just threw one in my car and My throttle linkage will not work right. If anyone has one can you post a close up pic. Thanks...

slide carb or rotary carb:confused: i have an 03 fr 12 slide carb slightly similar if thats what you have.

[Saboteur]

My mind has changed back to this car, and been thinking of it to buy in a few months or as an Xmas gift (its a long wait but WTH :p ). The SE kit would be good for now. No racing will be done at the moment. Ultimate Hobbies has an awesome price for it ($254.95) so I may try ordering it from there. I figured it would be good to just go with the SE vs since only the kit will be needed to get rollin; the rest of the gear is already here ( radio [XR2], body[BMW..from the Neo TNT], engine [M16] ). BTW, anyone have a THS pipe on their ride?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Ultimate hobbies may have good prices but watch out for the shipping charges, they charge over $30 to ship a tmaxx. Id call up first to see what the shipping price is, its probably cheaper at tower once you add everyting up. Tower's easier to deal with anyway and their site is much more organized, plus its only a $5 diffrence and with one of towers coupons itll be substancially cheaper.

[Saboteur]

Hmm..maybe its a scam they are running. Offer vehicles at lower prices than the competition, draw in customers, have them order it, and then charge em with a rediculous shipping price? Thnx for the tip Pro3. I will give tower a check.

[Speedy Gonzales]

Hey guys,

Do I need special motor mounts to instal a O.S. TR Turbo in my TC3 RTR? I already got the transmition on the stock motor.

Please advise.

Arriva , Arriva. Yepa, yepa.:eek:

[Saboteur]

Speedy- I think you will just need non p/s mounts for you're NTC3. Not too sure if the stock flywheel will work on an SG crank. Besides that you will need a RE manifold and pipe (for the NTC3).

BTW has anyone mounted an engine with a standard crankshaft on their NTC3, or does it ONLY have to be a SG and a rc10gt style(Cut) crankshaft?

[Sharkey]

i tried to, but had to cut the shaft. if you dont, you cant get the pilot shaft tightened up, and the clutchbell will stick off the end of the chassis.

[Crowbar Head]

Howdy,

I'm getting an NTC3 soon and wondered if anybody knows whether the "80211 WASP Engine 18 PRO - Side exhaust, STD shaft, Rotary Carburator, Pull Start" will fit the #2030 Pull Start kit?

Thanks!

[theShark]

I just pickedup two new kits, figured its time to retire my old ones....they've worked hard :)

The new kits came with white final gears instead of the grey and blue drive shafts....is this how they come now? Its nice that the shafts are blue but they look cheaper, the pins are hollow instead of solid like the old silver ones. Anyone know whats the deal with the white gears tho? Its a kinda yellowish/white colour. :confused:

[CTurbo]

The white gears are stronger.

[Saboteur]

Has anyone atleast tried to mount an STD crank on their NTC3? If not, and I will have to cut my M16 crank but by how much in order to fit?

[PeTroL420]

The std crank won't fit because its too long. Theres a part you have to screw onto the crank and its shorter than a std crank. What I did was use a grinder and kept grinding until that part was flush with the flywheel.

[Saboteur]

Very well. I use the cutoff wheel on my dremel to cut the crank. When the cash comes in I'll have my lhs order the kit (business is low...thought I'd support em) and some spare parts on the side. Thnx.

[thunderbt3]

Well, technically, it was my second race but it was my first race running my NTC3 RTR. I finished out second, only 4 laps away from first. We were counting laps instead of time at the track i went to. First of all, me and my little bro got to the track and it was just an oval track. we set up shop on some chairs they had cuz we didnt bring a table but it was all good. i fired up my NTC3 and took some practice laps but after my 4th lap of just getting used to how the car handles on the track, i misjudged the distance of the last turn and smacked the pipes hard and snapped a rear A-arm, my pipe almost crushed my tank too but thank god that didnt happen. Well i ran inside to see if they had a replacement and they said they didnt have shop. You hobby store owners, make sure u got atleast 1 or 2 sets of parts for the most popular cars that run cuz i know u guys make a lot of money on race day with entry fees and stuff. well, with no luck there, i thought it was a lost hope and i was just gonna pack up and be the mechanic for my little bro's rc10gt but i remembered i had tire glue in my tool box so i used some of that and let it sit and put some more on top of that. i was scared that it was gonna snap again so i ran inside and bought some epoxy and fixed it up, i never had a problem with it the entire day

The races started and i marshalled for most of the races. We were told that if someone flips over and was revving thier engine that just let them rev all they want. I kept that in mind and it came in handy. Another thing is be nice to the marshalls, this one dude went totally psycho cuz he ran into the marshall's foot when the marshal was in the process of clearing out a car.

Well my class was up after monster truck A and B, stock electric touring, mod electric touring. I was pretty nervous that the A-arm wouldnt hold up and that it was my first race running my NTC3. i was just gonna take it easy so i dont mess up my car or have the A-arm snap again. The buzzer sounded and there were 2 other guys racing with me and they took off and spun eachother out in the first turn and i just crused on by. i led about 18 laps untill the guy said 1 minute left then the guys started driving more agressive while i took my time driving easy and concentrating on the track. Well, i got rammed in the rear and i thought i snapped the a-arm cuz the rear wheel was sitting cockeyed so i thought i would have to break out the epoxy again but after i took the body off, i i found out that all i did was pop off the rear toe link, snapped it back on but by that time the race was over, i still came in second tho.

For my little bro's race, he came in 3rd outta 3, hes still getting used to controlling the car, hes only 12 and he ramped the pipes and while doing that he popped off a steering ballcup. one of the marshall was tring to fix it but my brother was steering the opposite way and the marshal was calling him some words. That wasnt cool, hes only a kid he doesnt know whats going on, all he wants to do is race and have fun.

For my second race, same thing happened, i stayed back and passed by the spun out cars and led most of the race UNTIL the other guys were getting agressive and started spining me out, i still came in second tho. For my third race, i think one of the guys was getting my drift and started driving easy, keeping his attention on the track and not other cars. He finished first and i came in second. the other guy got close to me but whenever i took a turn, he was concentrating on catching me and going too fast into the turn and kissed the wall, more like making out with the wall. Overall i came in second 4 laps from first, if i kept going that first race i couldve gotten first.

Lessons i learned today:

Be helpful, ull gain more friends that way. I told a kid that he was running WAY too rich and he just totally ignored my comment. everytime he hit the throttle it went "brrrrooogggg brrrrrroooooggg click" engine died. he was running a savage.

My theory is: if u wanna get into RC, learn how to tune. i see these spoiled little kids there running giant savages with gigantic OS motors and they dont race cuz they dont know how to tune thier engines. I offered to tune em for them but they want the hobby people to do it . This one other guy was pretty new with RC. he told me he got his NTC3 kit for christmas and he slowly added components. Well, his first race he didnt run cuz a clutch spring popped loose and made it so it seemed like clutch was always engaged. He finallly got to race the second heat and i noticed he was running way rich too so i told him and he started messing with the needles and he tried starting it and stuff and no luck so all i did was turn the low end down so it wouldnt go "brrrrrroooooggg" and he was running pretty decent with some majorly hopped up NTC3. I shared some tips with him and he was pretty appreciative.

When you race, be calm, dont be jetting all over the track, just keep your line, pass by people who spin out and u'll easily get first unless one of them agressive drivers spins ya out and whenever u accidently take someone out, just say sorry, someone will hear it on the drivers stand.

Just remember guys, we're all out there to have fun not win some national championships (well at my LHS races thats the situation). theres little kids out there learning the ropes and theres guys that are also new and learning the ropes and would be grateful for any help. Dont be a dick if you break something, just sit back and relax and watch some racing, this one guy running a electric touring car and kissed the pipe and it totally ripped off the whole right front tire. the guy didnt get pissed off that his car was crippled. He ran the rest of the race with 3 tires, he was leading most of the time too. I was marshaling and handed him his tire and he laughed and was "im surprised that its still all there"

Have fun out there guys, keep it cool. sorry about how long the post is, im just still hyped about the race. hehe

[CHIEF1972]

I have a question has anyone had trouble putting a body on their nitro tc3 i have the bumper sticks out too far even past the front tires width wise is something wrong i am using 200mm bodies and they wont fit or do i need to cut he bumper off even with the foam if anyone knows please e-mail me with the info to astark3687@wideopenwest.com

[NTC3Qualifier]

Originally posted by CHIEF1972
I have a question has anyone had trouble putting a body on their nitro tc3 i have the bumper sticks out too far even past the front tires width wise is something wrong i am using 200mm bodies and they wont fit or do i need to cut he bumper off even with the foam if anyone knows please e-mail me with the info to astark3687@wideopenwest.com

Cheif - do u have the Kit version? if so, are u using the plastic lower bumper as well as the foam version? if so, this is your problem, due to the tabs that stick out. they are a great idea, as they protect the front wheels in a collision, but arnt allowed in a ROAR race.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Qualifier
Cheif - do u have the Kit version? if so, are u using the plastic lower bumper as well as the foam version? if so, this is your problem, due to the tabs that stick out. they are a great idea, as they protect the front wheels in a collision, but arnt allowed in a ROAR race.

Beside, that bumper is made with PAPER/GLASS, replace that...

Most of us here used the RPM one, and that is the #1 and 1st thing we've all changed on our NTC3.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Beside, that bumper is made with PAPER/GLASS, replace that...

Most of us here used the RPM one, and that is the #1 and 1st thing we've all changed on our NTC3.
Did you have the one with the rubber groments? The bumper is made of a hard material, but the rubber groments absorb the shock in a crash, preventing it from breaking. I havent had any problems with mine yet.

[asabigdano]

Was wondering if anyone could help out. I just bought a Trinity Sirio .12 Sandard Racing Engine SG Style Crank motor for my ntc3. when putting on the flywheel and clutch, the fit just doesn't seem to be right. i've tried it with both collets but it just doesn't seem right. the threads on the crank seem to push the clutchbell out to far and there is too big of a gap between the flywheel and the clutchbell. also the screw that keeps the clutchbell seems to bind. is anyone running this rig and might be able to help?

asabigdano

[JeffS]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Did you have the one with the rubber groments? The bumper is made of a hard material, but the rubber groments absorb the shock in a crash, preventing it from breaking. I havent had any problems with mine yet.

I've found the Sirio engines to have an issue with the length between the engine case and the start of the flywheel nut threads. What I found that remedies this is running the Sirio collet with no spacer between the collet and the engine.

Give that a try.

-Jeff

[kreidel1]

Originally posted by asabigdano
Was wondering if anyone could help out. I just bought a Trinity Sirio .12 Sandard Racing Engine SG Style Crank motor for my ntc3. when putting on the flywheel and clutch, the fit just doesn't seem to be right. i've tried it with both collets but it just doesn't seem right. the threads on the crank seem to push the clutchbell out to far and there is too big of a gap between the flywheel and the clutchbell. also the screw that keeps the clutchbell seems to bind. is anyone running this rig and might be able to help?

asabigdano

In addtion to running it without the washer use those tiny little shims (the ones they tell you to use on O.S. engines) to make up the difference for the shorter length of the crank. They will actually fit into the inside of the clutchbell bearing and that will help to get the proper clearance.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by asabigdano
Was wondering if anyone could help out. I just bought a Trinity Sirio .12 Sandard Racing Engine SG Style Crank motor for my ntc3. when putting on the flywheel and clutch, the fit just doesn't seem to be right. i've tried it with both collets but it just doesn't seem right. the threads on the crank seem to push the clutchbell out to far and there is too big of a gap between the flywheel and the clutchbell. also the screw that keeps the clutchbell seems to bind. is anyone running this rig and might be able to help?

asabigdano
I use the Associated collet do everything according to the directions except I use all three of the little shims on the screw that holds the clutchbell on and use an Hpi screw instead of the included one because its too short. It works perfect for me no slop or binding, just dont over tighten the screw. Dont worry about the gap between the flywheel and clutchbell just as long as it not more than like 2mm, I dont think it really causes the clutch to slip or anything.

[asabigdano]

if i use the associated collet the fly wheel fits like it should. when i put on the clutch nut, it goes about 1 threads past the end of the threads. when i put on the clutch bell the shim and bearing get stopped by the threads instead of the clutch nut, thus causing the bell to bind when the screw is tightened. i use 3 shims now but still need more to not bind the bell. i've checked the length to the threaded clutch nut and for them to be the same the sg crank + the first thread equal the length of the threaded clutch nut. hope that makes since. would it be bad to grind first thread down to make the fit better or should i just extend the length of the sg crank with more shims. seems like the bell and spurs might be too close if i leave the bell where it is. probably better to make the bell move towards the flywheel. any ideas??

thx for the help by the way

asabigdano

[need4speed4]

my Gt with an O.S. 12cvr idles very high and very finicky, and I cant tune it because it wont hold a tune. It doesnt run very well, and I know it isnt running to its potential.Is this an air leak?? If so, then what do I do?? Please help...

Thanks,
Brian

[need4speed4]

sorry guys... wrong thread

[pep88]

I saw a graphite upper deck on ebay that is really inexpensive. A co. called 3racing makes it. Im wondering if anybody here is familiar with it or already has it. I looking for info on it:

How does it fit? Is it as durable as the others? Any probs? etc etc.

Thanks!


:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by asabigdano
if i use the associated collet the fly wheel fits like it should. when i put on the clutch nut, it goes about 1 threads past the end of the threads. when i put on the clutch bell the shim and bearing get stopped by the threads instead of the clutch nut, thus causing the bell to bind when the screw is tightened. i use 3 shims now but still need more to not bind the bell. i've checked the length to the threaded clutch nut and for them to be the same the sg crank + the first thread equal the length of the threaded clutch nut. hope that makes since. would it be bad to grind first thread down to make the fit better or should i just extend the length of the sg crank with more shims. seems like the bell and spurs might be too close if i leave the bell where it is. probably better to make the bell move towards the flywheel. any ideas??

thx for the help by the way

asabigdano
Thats just the way the sirio crank is but it still fits fine. Are you using the stock screw? Because you need a longer one, chances are that your overtightening it if its binding with a longer screw. If it still binds when you get a longer screw and use the three shims (which it shouldnt, mine dosnt) you can also try a countersunk screw (machine threaded of course). A countersunk screw will only contact the inside of the bearing making it impossible for it to bind.

[latemodelracer2]

Me and some of my buddys all have a Nitro tc3's. The only rule we have is to keep it stock apearing(motor). What can i do to make the stock motor faster? The track is real fast and you barely let out of the gas. I am currently running a pair of red springs in the front and stock silver in the rear with stock size clips all the way around. Nothing else has been changed except that i am running a rear sway bar. I have a 52 gear in the car but also have a 54,50, and 48. I am running the hardest HPI rubber tires with hard inner liners. I also have the restrictor out of the carb.

[Gassedup]

Say you said you took out your carb restrictor. Could you please tell me how many turns your low carb needle is set at? Have you ever checked your engine temperature? I sent my car to Associated to check out a problem. They sent it back with the carb restrictor off. Their carb settings make my engine run way too hot. Thanks,

[Jeff Cain]

Originally posted by latemodelracer2
Me and some of my buddys all have a Nitro tc3's. The only rule we have is to keep it stock apearing(motor). What can i do to make the stock motor faster?

Run 30% nitro. Even better if you have a bottle marked 20%, full of 30%. Keep em scratchin their heads. LOL

[latemodelracer2]

WE all run 20% right now and i have an i have an empty bottle so i will buy 30% this time

Gassedup

My low speed is at 2 1/2 out
High speed is 3 1/2 - 4
Temps usually run anywhere between 180-230 depending on if we are running the bodys or not.

[Jeff Cain]

Seems a little on the cold side. I'd say shoot for 230-250.

[latemodelracer2]

I figure the 30% will heat it upbut i guess ill just have towait and find out.

[scottericsonon]

here check this out

http://www.nascart.com/defalt.htm

ive done the carb mod and it works well


G/L scott

[gump0220]

Hey, I currently own a ntc3 rtr with the stock engine. I would like to put in a rear exhaust engine. Is it possible and what parts/modifications would i have to do.

[Sharkey]

all you will need for the rear exaust part is the pipe and header, as well as the spring.

some other things you will need depending on other parts of the engine

carb- if you get a slide carb engine you will need to change you linkage. its easyest to get an ofna linkage kit and build it all yourself.

crank style- if you get an sg or pilot shaft engine, you will need to get a clutch nut and the shims.

[frank13]

hey gump ,

if you are going to convert over , let me know,, im or pm me ,, i have everything you need but the linkage




frank13

[CTurbo]

Is the NTC3 dead or it is just the forum?

[Walt]

Originally posted by CTurbo
Is the NTC3 dead or it is just the forum?

Where many of us live it's winter, so ALL nitro touring cars are 'dead'...

[Speedy Gonzales]

Hey Guys, how much money have you put in you car?

I have $750 in my NTC3.:)

[Gassedup]

I'm pretty new to this forum and have noticed that this particular thread is rarely used. I do believe however that many people have a NTC3.

I'll throw out a question though. I've noticed in my engine that I cannot use the stock settings. My engine which is broken in but has only about 12 tanks through it, runs incredibly hot. Last week I ran the engine with both needles 2.5 turns out. I was somewhat glad when the engine ran at about 350 degrees. The week before it was 400+ and this was AE's settings. It's a long story but I sent my car to AE to be checked out and they adjusted my needle settings. The piston is quite snug in the TDC of the sleeve. I'm thinking with all that friction, temps will be high. Does it make the best sense to start the engine and let it idle for a while and adjust the low speed needle till I get a reasonable temperature say 180. Then run the car at higher speed and adjust the high speed needle. Do I only make 1/8 turns before each run. The engine does not respond well when I make big adjustments like a half a turn.

[Sharkey]

you actualy have the tuning backwards. in our motors, the low speed needle restricts the main needle when the motor is at idle. when you tweak the high speed needle, it agjusts the whole package, and the low end needle only changes the low end. so if you get the low end perfect, then tune the high end, it will screw up the low end.

the next thing is never tune by tempurature, only use it as a refferance. you want to tune by exaust smoke. you should have a nice thin plume of blue smoke out the exaust at all times. warm the car up and then start driving it around. run the car at full throttle and lean it out 1/8 of a turn at a time till there is a thin plume at full throttle. after running your car at full throttle, stop it in front of you and let it idle for 10 seconds then hit the throttle. if the motor bogs down and there is a ton of smoke from the pipe, lean the low end 1/8 of a turn. if it bogs and there is no smoke, then richen it up 1/8 turn. keep an eye on the tempurature. it should be between 220-250. dont tune it to run in that range, but use that as a refferance.

[Jeff Cain]

Only tweak one needle at a time though. AND be sure to allow the needle settings to take effect between tweaks, meaning run it for 30-60 seconds before making another change. Also, run it like you'll run it when you're not tuning.

[Gassedup]

I appreciate your help. I will try to start with the HSN this weekend. Maybe I'll start out higher than 2.5 turns out. I don't see bluish smoke come out. I get a lot of smoke but it's white.

[CTurbo]

Walt :
Here in Puerto Rico we race all year, but that explains the forum status.

[Walt]

Originally posted by CTurbo
Walt :
Here in Puerto Rico we race all year, but that explains the forum status.

Must be nice... but don't get me wrong.. we race all year too, just that this time of year it's indoor electric season. The nitro cars just have to wait until it's nice out again.

[Gassedup]

Good news....sort of. I tested my ofna temperature gauge and it is wrong. I was getting 350, 450 and 500 degree readings from my engine. I tested the gauge with boiling water and it came out to be around 500 degrees. Yeah, 290 degrees too much. Now I got to contact ofna and get it replaced.

[longfang]

Originally posted by waileun
The up force from under the chassis is precisely why a 1:1 car feels lighter when you travel at high speed.(Of course you may not feel it with a variable power steering)


All in all, Rookie and Walts hit on the point on the under chassis wind effect.
( if there is no under chassis up lift force, the car will feel heavier and heavier when you speed up. In reality this is not true and is totally opposite)

But with race cars the underbody does produce downforce as opposed to uplift, especially evident in the mid 70's to mid 80's in formula 1 when shaped under bodies and side skirts were used before being banned.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by CTurbo
Is the NTC3 dead or it is just the forum?

actually the r40 is the car of the moment. most of the guys that used to post here now have an R40 along with Ntc3s. and it is winter for most of the guys.

Speedy Gonzales

i lost count after 750 in one of mine (have 2) the other is completly stock.

[latemodelracer2]

One of the guys that races with us has the Hardcore racing titanium TC3. He says he has 2,600 in it. I have 400 in mine.

[Gassedup]

Can someone please give me some suggestions (brands) for steering rack bearings? Thanks,

[Sharkey]

steering rack bearings dont need to be anything special even for a hardcore racer. i use the ae bearings and they have no slop. you could get some bocca bearings for it, but there is realy no point for that.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Gassedup
Can someone please give me some suggestions (brands) for steering rack bearings? Thanks,

just get the associated ones....one pair of them is a really thin bearing,and when I checked a year ago,Boca(or anyone else) didn't even make the size needed(ID and OD yes,thickness,no)..

[SebastianG]

Ok...im 70% going with NTC3...another 30% towards RS4 3 SS.....Convince me more about getting the NTC3.

[KronicRacer]

owning both i can tell you that to make the hpi type ss race ready you will end up dumping alot of money into it. its a great car to start with. the ntc3 is race ready out of the box. you dont have to dump money into it to be successfull with it. ntc3 also has many gear options and configureations for motor, exhaust, carburators. hpi is limited somewhat when it comes to this. go for the ntc3

[Speedy Gonzales]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

I just broke in a O.S. TR turbo on my NTC3, and yesterday after playing with the carburetor settings I got it tuned
:) :)

AND AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH that little machine FLY!!!:eek:

People wore asking all kind of questions abauth the machine.

"No mames, va hecho la chingada We," Spanish expresion's

(Andale, andale. Yepa, yepa. Arriba, arriba.):D

[KronicRacer]

LMAO (i understood what that meant) :D

[SebastianG]

Now you got me 100% convinced. THanks.