Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v4.0

[speedydave]

Anyone run an Orion Wasp in their car? I'm curious as to how easy to tune the new Picco carbs are(I heard the Wasp has a newer, easier to tune carb), and also how the engine does with things like reliability and fuel mileage. I already know the engine is a screamer, and basically any engine(Wasp, MT12, MR12, etc) will be fast in an NTC3, so I'm more concerned with the new carb and how the engine is as far as tuning goes. Also, I know the Picco engines have some issues with how they fit(collet and exhaust port). Any advice on that? Thanks!

[torchedlh]

Originally posted by clgq2
what air filter does everyone use, or recommend?

motorsavers 10mm neck on road. allows more airflow than stock and uses WD 40 for the oil.

[NickBurns]

I just finished building my TC3. It took me about 20 hours total. How does that compair to you guys. I'm guessing I was a little slow, ran into some problems.

I've run 2 tanks of gas breaking in my OS CVRX and its running pretty good.

The only thing I notice is that the chassis seams to vibrate pretty bad. More so then any of the other cars I have. My engine mount screws are all tight as can be.

[speedydave]

I noticed that, too. Vibrates more than my GT with the same engine, vibrates more than my 1/8, too. Is that just an onroad thing? Funky...

[torchedlh]

Originally posted by NickBurns
I just finished building my TC3. It took me about 20 hours total. How does that compair to you guys. I'm guessing I was a little slow, ran into some problems.

I've run 2 tanks of gas breaking in my OS CVRX and its running pretty good.

The only thing I notice is that the chassis seams to vibrate pretty bad. More so then any of the other cars I have. My engine mount screws are all tight as can be.

mine took me about 6 hours to build. it was my second kit tho......

[powertrip]

I'm new to nitro and I just got a NTC3 RTR from my buddy.. He only ran 2 tanks on it but he really didn't break it in. he crashed the car a bit. Had to replace front gearbox (screws were bent and stripped) and the drive shaft (w/ the blue team)..

Now I hooked it up to my JR XS3 radio and converted it to a 2 speed tranny... NOw i start the thing up... all is fine... I'm following the directions on the break in.


But when I apply the brakes, the engine shuts off.. Now I can't even start the dang thing... My arm hurts like heck from the pull start.. What's funny is that the fuel doesn't flow to the carb now.. what would be the cause of that? I have to pull the tube let it flow and plug it back into the carb before it spills.. (or spills a little).

anyways, I just want to get it running again.. the glow plug is good, the igniter is good, all the engine screw adjusments are how they should be.. what else is there??

On another note, once it is running, I want to get rid of this dang pull start... I'm looking into getting the AE starter box or the duratrax one.. Is there anything else I need to do to the car to get rid of the pullstart?? Do i need to replace everything pull start before using the starter box? TIA

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by NickBurns
I just finished building my TC3. It took me about 20 hours total. How does that compair to you guys. I'm guessing I was a little slow, ran into some problems.

I've run 2 tanks of gas breaking in my OS CVRX and its running pretty good.

The only thing I notice is that the chassis seams to vibrate pretty bad. More so then any of the other cars I have. My engine mount screws are all tight as can be.
hmmm I guess mine took like 8 hours to build, but its because Im a perfectionist and if somthing isnt absolutly perfect I do it over and over until it is, I must have dont the shocks at least 5 times mabey more...

About the vibrating, if all the screws are tight check if your clutch bell is on properly, and if your gear mesh is set right.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Forgot how long it took to get mine built, mostly due to engine and tools on order.
Powertrip
The way you describe it comes down to a couple things off the top of my head. It's either loading up or you have some trash somewhere in the fuel system. Another reason could be your idle screw is set to low.
TC3

[G87z]

ARGH was all set to purchase my NTC3 Kit when I noticed that my starter box (GS Racing) will not work with it. Damn. now what to do. im not really wanting to buy another box because I know I wont get anything for mine....




George

[speedydave]

Is your box designed for 1/10 offroad trucks/"normal" touring cars, or 1/8 buggies? You should still be able to use your box, it'll just be a little awkward.

[G87z]

it is made for 1/10th onroad or off road. i can set the wheel to go front to back or side to side, but it sits forward. not towards the rear of the box. not sure how it would work


thanks George

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by powertrip

Is there anything else I need to do to the car to get rid of the pullstart?? Do i need to replace everything pull start before using the starter box? TIA

You can still use a starter box with the pull start on.

[speedydave]

This is the box I use for mine...but if I get heavily into this, I may buy the AE box for the NTC3. The pegs on this box are for lining up my GT, and if I put pegs for lining my NTC3 up on it, the pegs for the NTC3 would get in the way of th GT, so I have to eyeball it(not too difficult, but hard to do with the body on).

[speedydave]

Here's how it lines up with that box.

[speedydave]

Another. Yes, unfortunately I got one of the earlier kits(I guess it had been sitting around for a while) that has the old style tank. :( I have the new style tank on my GT, though...maybe I'll swap them, or just buy the new style tank for my NTC3(I like that idea better. ;) ).

[torchedlh]

well what i do is flip the wheel 90 degrees so that the wheel runs perpindicular to the box. and then place the rear of your ntc3 at the front end of your starter box. this works great as i don't have to eyeball it and the pegs lock the car in place. however i don't know if doing this will get in the way of starting your GT.

[speedydave]

Definitely would because of the motor position, but I've been thinking about seeing if it would get in the way if I tried doing that with my 1/8 box, but that would pobably get in the way, too. :(

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by speedydave
Anyone run an Orion Wasp in their car? I'm curious as to how easy to tune the new Picco carbs are(I heard the Wasp has a newer, easier to tune carb), and also how the engine does with things like reliability and fuel mileage. I already know the engine is a screamer, and basically any engine(Wasp, MT12, MR12, etc) will be fast in an NTC3, so I'm more concerned with the new carb and how the engine is as far as tuning goes. Also, I know the Picco engines have some issues with how they fit(collet and exhaust port). Any advice on that? Thanks!

The new Picco carbs are great. If you have a grasp on how to tune a motor, best by listing to it, then you shouldn't have a problem. They can be finikey if the motor is cold, it the differences between running the motor cold, just after startup, and after it has been on a track for a few minutes is a big difference. Just be patient with it and let it get up to temp before you turn any needles. I nomally get about 8 min out of the motor per tank, 2 min of warmup on the starter box and then a minute of warmup on the track and a 5 min race.

Fit issues are my only beef with the motor. I had to machine the collet that came with it and put a much less steep of a taper on it to fit in the NTC3 flywheel. I also had to drill an extra set of holes in the header to add an extra spring that would give me more tension and less leakage.

I stoped selling moded Colaries because of the fit problems that people were having with them. No matter what you start with all moded motors will be fast, but the Piccos are one of my favorite stock motors.

[Havoc223]

I'm using the non-pullstart flywheel with an O.S. .12 CVR on my two speed NTC3.I find that I'm having a little trouble starting the engine because the Associated flywheels are so narrow that there isn't much contact area.I'm able to line up the flywheel but most of the time I have to loosten the glowplug to release some compression.Does anyone know if ther is a thicker after- market flywheel that can be used with the two speed? :confused:

[torchedlh]

i'm pretty sure there aren't any aftermarket flywheels for NTC3's. you're just gonna keep having to loosen the glow plug until the engine is broken in enough and the compression isn't so great.

[mckrooz]

I'm using the stock 2 speed gearing with a CV-R. I want a little better top end. What tooth spur and pinion should I get? I would like to keep the bottom end the same if possible.

[speedydave]

You should be able to replace the stock 26T pinion with a 27T.

[torchedlh]

you'd have to change the spur gear then too....

[Ford850]

I just bought a new NTC-3 kit. What should be my first three hop-ups? Can anyone recomend a good set of tires for the NTC-3?

Thanks

[speedydave]

Originally posted by torchedlh
you'd have to change the spur gear then too....

I don't know about everyone else, but with the stock 22/26, my 2nd speed mesh is a little looser than the first, so going up to a 27 shouldn't hurt anything(unless its supposed to be like that, but I don't see why).

Ford, what kind of tires? Foam? Rubber? Bashing or racing?

[Ford850]

I'm looking for two set of rubber tires: one for bashing and the the other for racing. I want some foam tires for racing too.

Thanks

[Drive4fun]

Whats next for my NTC3 RTR stock except the steering servo. Whats next gearings 2 speed tires shocks TI parts Aluminum parts tryin to out speed and out drive friend already have out drive now i need the speed whats next? thanks

[TC3Kamikaze]

Ford
Give Jaco Nitro Shoes a try I run them or mugen fast tires. When I did run rubber tires I used the old sedan hawgs for bashing and yok slicks with a hard and medium insert. I know a few of the guys here run Medial Pro touring tires. No insert to worry about. I'd go for the steering rack bearings and RPM heavy duty ballcups for the steering. The Fix for the tranny case problem and maybe some of the graphite parts.
TC3

And here's the possible gears that I know of you can run forgot where I got em.
21/25 with 54/50 1st 6.43 2nd 5.00
22/26 with 54/50 1st 6.13 2nd 4.81
23/27 with 54/50 1st 5.87 2nd 4.63
20/26 with 54/48 1st 6.75 2nd 4.61
21/27 with 54/48 1st 6.43 2nd 4.44
20/22 with 52/50 1st 6.50 2nd 5.68
21/23 with 52/50 1st 6.19 2nd 5.43
22/24 with 52/50 1st 6.14 2nd 5.21
23/25 with 52/50 1st 5.65 2nd 5.00
24/26 with 52/50 1st 5.42 2nd 4.81
25/27 with 52/50 1st 5.20 2nd 4.63

[Ford850]

TC3Kamikaze
what isThe Fix for the tranny case problem?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Ford850
TC3Kamikaze
what isThe Fix for the tranny case problem?

there isn't a problem ,unless you race with boards on the track..what happens is that the upper control arm(which is held by the shock tower),gets tweaked everytime you hit the baords..this causes teh shock tower to loosen up..what the fix does is ties the upper and lower gearcases AND the shock tower together as a unit...stops teh tower from loosenig,AND gives the whole front end more strenght as a whole..

go to EBAY..type in "THE FIX TC3"..you'll see it...you can buy it there,OR contact jim reeves through his email...tell him fastharry sent you..hes a good guy..

[TC3Kamikaze]

Edit: Harry sumed it up so much better than the redneck did.
TC3

[frank13]

has anyone used these cases, and what did you thiink of them , i am trying to decide to try them or not, all i am worried about is fit, and precision , not weight


frank13

[frank13]

hey are you gonna race at alpine -- just curious ,, as i think i remember you are from jersey

frank13

[Ford850]

Thank you for the info. TC3Kamikaze and fastharry. I'm going to order one for the front and rear in a week or two. Does anyone have them on their car; if so how do you like it?

Thanks

[fastharry]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
Edit: Harry sumed it up so much better than the redneck did.
TC3


which redneck was that?....(and thanks)...

[fastharry]

Originally posted by frank13
hey are you gonna race at alpine -- just curious ,, as i think i remember you are from jersey

frank13


hi frank..yes,I'm from NJ......we race in Nanuet NY.....wat racing is in alpine?....



BTW,I raced the Tc3 Edison NJ....teh edison car club has racing...BIG,and I mean BIG course..(225 x200 foot)....first time there..they race 1/8th scale also...

don't let anyone kid you..the tc3 is one good handling car..

on a course I've never driven,with only 5 laps worth of practice,I qualified 10th in the a..and finshed 4th in the a in a 30 minute main....

thats pretty good for an old man..esp whan I beat all the younger guys with mugens...(BTW,a tc3 was 3rd)..2 of the regulars finshed 1st and 2nd in mugens...

their next race is the wekend of June 7th and 8th...you should make it down...

[frank13]

how far is that from phila area, alpine is lot series , hosted by ray murray in turnersville nj ,, very nicely run ,, small but EVERYONE IS SOOO FRIENDLY,, and that is so important ,, placed 5 this past weekend ,

frank13

[TC3Kamikaze]

<--This redneck....:)
Ah man wish I was running on a track of that size. The current tracks here are small in comparison.
TC3

[fastharry]

Originally posted by frank13
how far is that from phila area, alpine is lot series , hosted by ray murray in turnersville nj ,, very nicely run ,, small but EVERYONE IS SOOO FRIENDLY,, and that is so important ,, placed 5 this past weekend ,

frank13

ok,I thought you were talking about Alpine NJ...I'm going to run the HPI challenge that rays club is hosting....


he a good guy....

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Ford850
Thank you for the info. TC3Kamikaze and fastharry. I'm going to order one for the front and rear in a week or two. Does anyone have them on their car; if so how do you like it?

Thanks

Heres "The FIX" on my Team NTC3....

http://home.worldonline.co.za/~20149680/Pictures/NTC3/The%20Fix/The%20Fix%201.jpg

[powertrip]

Does anyone make a cover for the pinion and spur area?? I ran in an area where there were lots of little rocks and it totally scarred the gears...

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I saw it before somewhere about the fix . I am sick and tired of it, everytime i finish a run. The rear ball cup will move all the way into the turnbuckle causing the rear toe out a lot. I have even change the rear ball end very often but it still happen. I saw someone who put a nut on the turnbuckle to stop the ball cup moving in while it is running.
But i went to hardware store yesterday and try all different size of nut like 6-32, 8-32, 3mm and 4mm, none of them will fit.
Can someone tell me how did you do yours and where i can get these to fix this problem.

BTW, I am using Factory team blue turn buckle.

[torchedlh]

Originally posted by powertrip
Does anyone make a cover for the pinion and spur area?? I ran in an area where there were lots of little rocks and it totally scarred the gears...

yea that same thing happened to me. i got a nice silver spot on every tooth of my pinions... anyway i don't think anyone makes a cover like you're talking about, but you might be bale to fashon one out of lexan and screw it down somewhere.. just a thought.

[TC3Kamikaze]

Matrix
Check out Harry's post on the previous pages about "The Fix"

Here's something to try, go over to a local harware store and pick up some window screen material. Fasten it down with your favorite ca or shoe goo. It won't let the big stuff in but will let the dust out. I had it that way for the etc3 guess I'll have to try it on the NTC3.
TC3

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by TC3Kamikaze
Matrix
Check out Harry's post on the previous pages about "The Fix"

Here's something to try, go over to a local harware store and pick up some window screen material. Fasten it down with your favorite ca or shoe goo. It won't let the big stuff in but will let the dust out. I had it that way for the etc3 guess I'll have to try it on the NTC3.
TC3

I think he wanted to know about the Rear Turnbuckle Fix..
i Think there was an issue about the reversed threads or something to that effect..

[us_matrix]

hI ntcfan,

Yes, i am talking about the thread of the rear ball cup, i am really really sick and tired of this problem. i saw a pic before someone did a REAR TURNBUCKLE FIX. But where i can find the right size and fix?

Thanks in advance

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by us_matrix
hI ntcfan,

Yes, i am talking about the thread of the rear ball cup, i am really really sick and tired of this problem. i saw a pic before someone did a REAR TURNBUCKLE FIX. But where i can find the right size and fix?

Thanks in advance

So far, there are 3 solutions about the rear turn buckle fix...

(1) Try to beat Barry Baker and take over his Team AE driver postion, then you will have the AE custom maded rear reverse threaded nuts that ONLY Team AE driver has....

(2) Talk to NTC3NUT at Rctech.net and see he still have the pictures of his NTC3....he did something similar then the AE driver but I don't think it work as good as the AE one (AE said they will publish that parts later.....from LAST year)

(3)......good get some alum. tubing, then measure the distance between the END of the cup to the center square turning nut on your turning buckle....cut a piece of tubing and insert that to BOTH side of the turning bunckle (see pic below).....in that way, it will prevent the turning buckle pushed-in (way inside) to the cup....however, you cannot ADJUST your toe-after, but the solution is.....since you are most likely using 2-3 degree rear toe...you can make a set of tubing for 2 degree (shorter) and a set for 3 degree (longer).........if you like, make a set of 2.5 degree. This methrod is NOT as perfect as the AE one, but since, it DOES limited the PLAY if you hit the wall by a very small margine, at least, you won't have your car ended up POSITIVE 3 degree at the rear (cup got pushed in too far)......but this methrod cannot prevent you the wheel get KNOCK on from the other direction (means, the cup got PULL instead of push)

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/rear-rod.jpg

(4) Last solution........Stay away from the board............

[us_matrix]

Hi Rookie,

You're always stay at the top. But it would be a pain if doing the third suggestion (tubing). Just wondering, did you do it or just let it be

[nitrojunkee]

having a heck of a time hooking my ntc3 up on the somewhat prepped parking lot track at hobbytown(they spray it down with sugar water..). im running sirio outlaw, with team orion 26mm foams all the way around, 30 shore up front, and 35 in the rear. red springs in the front, yellow in the rear with 40wt oil all the way around. ride height and all other suspension geometry is stock recommendations. i have a feeling im way off on my setup, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. also im running a jr xr2 am radio, and glitching during races pretty bad. id like to upgrade to the xs3, or the r1 radio any thoughts???
thanks, mark.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by nitrojunkee
having a heck of a time hooking my ntc3 up on the somewhat prepped parking lot track at hobbytown(they spray it down with sugar water..). im running sirio outlaw, with team orion 26mm foams all the way around, 30 shore up front, and 35 in the rear. red springs in the front, yellow in the rear with 40wt oil all the way around. ride height and all other suspension geometry is stock recommendations. i have a feeling im way off on my setup, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. also im running a jr xr2 am radio, and glitching during races pretty bad. id like to upgrade to the xs3, or the r1 radio any thoughts???
thanks, mark.

let me take a guess..even with the sugar water,the car is hooking,spinning,and has way to much steering.....am I right?

[frank13]

ok try this,

set the car as per manual,

dump those tires for 45 front and 40 rears, and go from there,

too much steering,, stiffen the rear, too lil steering soften it,, but start as the manual suggest,, if not you will never get it right

[mckrooz]

How is the car handling? The yellow springs should be matched with 60wt oil and #3 piston. Make sure the ride height is set at 5mm. Try switching the yellows to the front and red to the back.

Frank13- Isn't it the other way around? Too much steering, soften the back. Too little steering, stiffen the back?

[jscamry]

has anyone tried the tip on http://www.rc411.com/index2.html




This is from RC411.com

Remove the ball ends from your car. Head to the hobby shop and pick up a pack of 4-40 setscrews, and a 4-40 tap and drill set. Locate a spot on the suspension arms about 3/8 of an inch
from the end of the arm. Drill a hole into the arm so that the drill is pointed perfectly centered over the hole that the ball end will screw into. Drill the hole but stop once you go through to the mounting hole. Next use your 4-40 tap and tap the hole you just drilled. Now reinsert your ball ends and set the suspension how you want it. Thread one of the 4-40 set screws into the hole you just cut. Tighten it until you feel the setscrew snug up against the ball end. Repeat the process to all four corners as needed.

Thanks Jason

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by jscamry
has anyone tried the tip on http://www.rc411.com/index2.html




This is from RC411.com

Remove the ball ends from your car. Head to the hobby shop and pick up a pack of 4-40 setscrews, and a 4-40 tap and drill set. Locate a spot on the suspension arms about 3/8 of an inch
from the end of the arm. Drill a hole into the arm so that the drill is pointed perfectly centered over the hole that the ball end will screw into. Drill the hole but stop once you go through to the mounting hole. Next use your 4-40 tap and tap the hole you just drilled. Now reinsert your ball ends and set the suspension how you want it. Thread one of the 4-40 set screws into the hole you just cut. Tighten it until you feel the setscrew snug up against the ball end. Repeat the process to all four corners as needed.

Thanks Jason

Thats a good tip. Another one that a guy at the track told me is get a q-tip and strip the cotton off one end. Then coat it with Elmers glue and stick it in the a-arm and coat the inside. Then re-install the pivot ball. Works like loc-tite and not as strong as CA glue.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi Rookie,

You're always stay at the top. But it would be a pain if doing the third suggestion (tubing). Just wondering, did you do it or just let it be

No....I didn't do that YET....cause I decided to use #4 solution - stay away from the board and other cars............:D

About the pillow ball things........I use Plumbing use Teflon tape.....do it like plumbing pipe....

Besides....that doesn't bother me, I had 6 (yes, SIX) bented pillow balls on last SAT/SUN racing.........cracked one tank and a small dent on the pipe..........my cheap "FIX" actually DOES hold up for all the accident (both front and rear diff case/shock towes are in perfect condition).....but now I really need to consider the MUGEN pillow balls modificaiton.....

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
No....I didn't do that YET....cause I decided to use #4 solution - stay away from the board and other cars............:D

About the pillow ball things........I use Plumbing use Teflon tape.....do it like plumbing pipe....

Besides....that doesn't bother me, I had 6 (yes, SIX) bented pillow balls on last SAT/SUN racing.........cracked one tank and a small dent on the pipe..........my cheap "FIX" actually DOES hold up for all the accident (both front and rear diff case/shock towes are in perfect condition).....but now I really need to consider the MUGEN pillow balls modificaiton.....

Hey Rookie...
what exactly is the Mugan fix if i might ask???

(btw there is something at the post office - doesnt say from where tho :D :D )

[Rookie Solara]

I had 6 bent pillow balls from my last week SAT and SUN race....not ONE major hit, just simply tapping to the other cars, not even kissing WALLS......and those pillow balls are like toothpicks, absolutely GARBAGE......

The MUGEN thing is, ppl using MUGEN pillow balls instead of the NTC3, they are thicker in diameter, but it is not plug and play, you have to drill out the arms a little, go back 3-4 pages and you can see someone mentioned how to do that...I will give that a shot, since i have nothing to lose.

Still haven't receive the stuff I send to you...? Are you sure you went to the post office or you went to the POLICE station for mail..?

[us_matrix]

Yeah Rookie,

Keep us updated if you can use the Mugen pillow ball instead. The stock one is totally POS and the factory team are the same.

[Pro3/nmt105]

I heard the TIR pillowballs are the best, I think their site is www.titaniumracing.com

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by nitrojunkee
having a heck of a time hooking my ntc3 up on the somewhat prepped parking lot track at hobbytown(they spray it down with sugar water..). im running sirio outlaw, with team orion 26mm foams all the way around, 30 shore up front, and 35 in the rear. red springs in the front, yellow in the rear with 40wt oil all the way around. ride height and all other suspension geometry is stock recommendations. i have a feeling im way off on my setup, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. also im running a jr xr2 am radio, and glitching during races pretty bad. id like to upgrade to the xs3, or the r1 radio any thoughts???
thanks, mark.
Is the rear end sliding out? Its probably because your using the tires in the wrong locations. You supposed to run a harder tire in the front and a softer tire in the rear, or the same all round. If you run harder rear tires it will probably cause your rear end to slide out. So run the 35 shore in the front and the 30 shore in the rear.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I had 6 bent pillow balls from my last week SAT and SUN race....not ONE major hit, just simply tapping to the other cars, not even kissing WALLS......and those pillow balls are like toothpicks, absolutely GARBAGE......

The MUGEN thing is, ppl using MUGEN pillow balls instead of the NTC3, they are thicker in diameter, but it is not plug and play, you have to drill out the arms a little, go back 3-4 pages and you can see someone mentioned how to do that...I will give that a shot, since i have nothing to lose.

Still haven't receive the stuff I send to you...? Are you sure you went to the post office or you went to the POLICE station for mail..?


rookie,are you sure about that?....just tapping other cars?.....I ran a 30 minute main on a 250 ft track on sunday,and have the yellow paint on the wheel nuts to prove it(from the boards)...

and that includes practicing with 1/8th scales also(and I got a few love taps from them also)

my car is in perfect tweak......and not one part is bent...(btw,finshed 4th,a main)....

[GP40X]

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I had 6 bent pillow balls from my last week SAT and SUN race....not ONE major hit, just simply tapping to the other cars, not even kissing WALLS......and those pillow balls are like toothpicks, absolutely GARBAGE......

The MUGEN thing is, ppl using MUGEN pillow balls instead of the NTC3, they are thicker in diameter, but it is not plug and play, you have to drill out the arms a little, go back 3-4 pages and you can see someone mentioned how to do that...I will give that a shot, since i have nothing to lose.

Still haven't receive the stuff I send to you...? Are you sure you went to the post office or you went to the POLICE station for mail..?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Originally posted by fastharry:

rookie,are you sure about that?....just tapping other cars?.....I ran a 30 minute main on a 250 ft track on sunday,and have the yellow paint on the wheel nuts to prove it(from the boards)...

and that includes practicing with 1/8th scales also(and I got a few love taps from them also)

my car is in perfect tweak......and not one part is bent...(btw,finshed 4th,a main)....

It's time for my weekly race maintenance. That includes replacing the front lower pivot balls. Every time I race I usually bend the front lower pivot balls. The front upper & all 4 rear pivot balls have not bent yet. Of cource I usually leave divots ground in the track boards (they look like a small router has attacked the track boards) because I tend to bounce off of them a lot DOH I also cracked another diff case last weekend but luckily the guy who carries "The Fix" finally showed up. After the three heats both outer screws on the front diff case feel like they are stripped & I can see a hairline crack in the left front screw hole. Installing the fix kept me from a rush job of installing the last diff case I have in my personal parts stash. I'm thinking about trying the Mugen pivot balls on the extra set of front A-arms I have. I also blew a right rear outer wheel bearing in the third heat last Sunday so I had to do a quick bearing install. Luckily it only clearanced the right rear hub a small amount & the bearing I installed let me take a second place in the Novice Nitro A Main. I was the slowest car on the track by about a second a lap over most cars there (no two speed yet & I still run the RTR restrictor). I mossed the first lap pileup & actually led the first lap before getting passed by the eventual winner of the race. I figue this was pretty good considering I had a stalling problem & only qualified 6th after having a stalling problem all day. I finally corrected it by increasing the idle almost to the point the clutch is engaging. I see copper clutch springs in my near future. The one thing you have to understand about this is I have dished out an incredible amount of punishment on the car. Why do people keep saying the car is too fradigle to race?

Bill (Nitro TC3 RTR Racer)

[frank13]

the ntc3 is not fragile, i race at teh alpine lounge in turnersville, nj and it is a parking lot series, very organised, and i crash alot,, and i mean i banged the hell outta my car, and like pro3 said i have the paint on the wheel nuts to prove it,, i dont use graphite parts, and my car is basically stock except the chasis and some lighwieght drive stuff,

and all i have broken are two diff cases and one shock tower, in three monthes of runnign and racing , yeah last year i broke some pillow balls and various parts, but that is the way life is, if i DONT CRASH i dont break anythigmn , i have owned hpi cars that when you look at em they break,
this car is very easy to work on and it does have a weak point in a crash in the cases and shock towers, but how easy is it to fix, two minutes, 6 screws and 4 bucks, atleast it isnt an serpernt and it cost like 30 bucks to fix one thing,
hey maybe ofna got the shock towers and diff cases fixed, they should bolt right in ,,, i ordered a diff from them as it looks like a direct fit, to see if it would fit,

has anyone noticed how nice the ntc3 kfactory parts fit on the ld3,, lol


frank13

[TC3Kamikaze]

I'd like to hear your findings Frank if they indeed fit. I'm waiting for a LHS to get their order of Kfactory tanks in. I like how it's setup, real slick compared to the stock tank. Anyone running RD Logics cases? If they rock I might give em a try and skip getting the fix.
TC3

[frank13]

i am getting a set delivered to me tommorrow from rd, ill le tyou know next weekend

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

Still haven't receive the stuff I send to you...? Are you sure you went to the post office or you went to the POLICE station for mail..?

Yeah it was some stuff from AMD... not the Axils.... must be sitting at the police station.... :D :D titanium Bullets

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fastharry
rookie,are you sure about that?....just tapping other cars?.....I ran a 30 minute main on a 250 ft track on sunday,and have the yellow paint on the wheel nuts to prove it(from the boards)...

and that includes practicing with 1/8th scales also(and I got a few love taps from them also)

my car is in perfect tweak......and not one part is bent...(btw,finshed 4th,a main)....

YES, positive.......NO WALLS (which I was very good STAYING away from)......all the impacts are from other cars, and the CORNER DISHES, which are metal (if that is part of the wall, then I did touch the wall)....but I think I should not use the word TAPPING, it is a little more then TAPPING...like car hitting car kinda impact, you know what I am saying...

Those pillow balls are BENTABLE, I can easily bent them back to close to straight.......however, I usually have to bent the top and bottom balls cause they usually bent together (that make sences cause the steering hubs are connected to both top and bottom balls, so they both bent to 2 different/opposite direction)

Besides those pillow balls........NTC3 are accepable, and I did not say the WHOLE car is garbage/fragile.......just certain parts of the car are really the designer problem issue.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
YES, positive.......NO WALLS (which I was very good STAYING away from)......all the impacts are from other cars, and the CORNER DISHES, which are metal (if that is part of the wall, then I did touch the wall)....but I think I should not use the word TAPPING, it is a little more then TAPPING...like car hitting car kinda impact, you know what I am saying...

Those pillow balls are BENTABLE, I can easily bent them back to close to straight.......however, I usually have to bent the top and bottom balls cause they usually bent together (that make sences cause the steering hubs are connected to both top and bottom balls, so they both bent to 2 different/opposite direction)

Besides those pillow balls........NTC3 are accepable, and I did not say the WHOLE car is garbage/fragile.......just certain parts of the car are really the designer problem issue.






I know you like your car.....;)

[NickBurns]

I have noticed that my spur gears are getting pretty beat up. Most of it is from small smal rocks, a little larger then sand are getting caught in the mesh and messing up the plastic gears.

Is it a pain in the ass to replace spur gears. I figured that people must change them depending on tracks so it can't be that invloved. I hate having to take my diffs off the chassis.

2nd do they make metal spur gears?

Thanks

Ian

[powertrip]

I can't seem to find shocks for the NTC3 (well, I've only looked in tower.. L0L)... but basically I need to get something for my NTC3... it was an RTR that was given to me, basically all I have done to it is a 2 speed tranny and hooked it up to my JR XS3 receiver.. I put a high speed steering servo as well.. what else can i do to get more out of this thing?? tuned pipe on the stock .12??? or something else? not looking into getting a new motor till alot later.

[rcaddiction]

Hey guys! Quick question. Do bodies make a difference in racing?
I don't have allot of time, so I'm considering buying one of Atomik's shells for my GT. I've noticed that no one seems to use them in racing. All I see are Pro-Line Crowd Pleazers and GMC LPs. The track that I'm going to race on has a 170 foot back straight, so if Aero is an issue, I'll just go with the status quo.
Thanks!

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
YES, positive.......NO WALLS (which I was very good STAYING away from)......all the impacts are from other cars, and the CORNER DISHES, which are metal (if that is part of the wall, then I did touch the wall)....but I think I should not use the word TAPPING, it is a little more then TAPPING...like car hitting car kinda impact, you know what I am saying...

I can vouch for this. In the 3 years I've been watching Rookie race, I've never seen him have any kind of major accident. He is very good at driving around accidents.

[rcaddiction]

Sorry guys wrong forum!:D

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I can vouch for this. In the 3 years I've been watching Rookie race, I've never seen him have any kind of major accident. He is very good at driving around accidents.

HauntedMyst..........good to see you here, and please, get your NTC3 ready and join the AE team, I am almost the only NTC3 left (did you know Albert just jumped the boat and back to 705 camp?) I am by myself ONCE again.......

[Distro]

gah got noobed

[Distro]

Originally posted by powertrip
I can't seem to find shocks for the NTC3 (well, I've only looked in tower.. L0L)... but basically I need to get something for my NTC3... it was an RTR that was given to me, basically all I have done to it is a 2 speed tranny and hooked it up to my JR XS3 receiver.. I put a high speed steering servo as well.. what else can i do to get more out of this thing?? tuned pipe on the stock .12??? or something else? not looking into getting a new motor till alot later.

A new motor, you can try the duel chambered pipe also, it smooths out the throttle but its only for rear exhaust engines.

[powertrip]

What do you think of the tuned exhaust from associated??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN9&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN4&P=K

[tamiyajoe]

which radio tray should i get? i can decide between the K factory carbon fiber or the hardcore titanium. which is lighter/stronger?

also, how is the K factory carbon fiber chassis brace (the one on the motorside that replaces the stock chassis braces)?

[TC3Kamikaze]

Here ya go powertrip Team shocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSG46). It's threaded shocks that come on the NTC3. As for a pipe either would be good. It'll pretty much depend on the size of the track you'll be running.
TC3

[frank13]

ok they came today ,, and they went on without a hitch ,, kinda with they were polished , but not that big of a deal, looks cool though , i am racing next weekend so we will see what happens,, my only fear is , if i don tbreak the case what will break instead,,
but i do like that the screws go in so easy ,, i didnt use locktite , just grease on the thread, as i like to inspect my diffs between heats ,, and i didnt want the hassle, hopefully that will hold, but the shock tower seems a lil more solidly attached now,

i am waiting for the followin to get now:

gh arm mounts
ntc3 blue shaft
irs brake cup
gh center bulkhead,,

i want a bullet proof drive train,, i wish i could get steel diff gears and steel drive gears,

no biggie


frank13

[torchedlh]

Originally posted by frank13
i wish i could get steel diff gears and steel drive gears,

no biggie


frank13

you talking about spur gears? you do not want spur gears as they are made to give if there's a problem with the mesh or somethign getting lodged in between. i'd rather replace a $4 a few times than to replace a $30 one once or twice.

[frank13]

i was talking about the lil gear that mates with the diff gear in the dif case,

has anyone tried the centax clutch from kfactory,, i have the chance to use one and was wondering how you liked it ,

frank13

[KronicRacer]

my latest project......

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/311538_1786321921362096546_vl.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/311539_5663934844722554410_vl.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/311540_5972285651701981754_v.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/311541_4935591336192228612_vl.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/311542_6486867840025316124_vl.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/311543_9191102945273764619_vl.jpg

[spenzalii]

i want a bullet proof drive train,, i wish i could get steel diff gears and steel drive gears,

You can. It's called the LD3 :rolleyes:

No seriously, I'm not sure if the diff will fit. It wouldn't hurt to grab one for a few bucks and see. If it fits, goodie gumdrops. If not, oh well.

And what kFactory parts fit the LD3?

very nice ride Kronic. I'd get a TC3 just to build it up that way. But I'm waiting on the full option 'clone' instead.

[KronicRacer]

one more...
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/311617_591302788624647010_vl.jpg

[Distro]

Originally posted by powertrip
What do you think of the tuned exhaust from associated??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN9&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN4&P=K

Those pipes only work with a side exhaust motor, and if your using a side exhaust motor i wouldn't buy a new pipe i'd save up for a rear exhaust motor and get the dual chambered pipe.

[tamiyajoe]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
which radio tray should i get? i can decide between the K factory carbon fiber or the hardcore titanium. which is lighter/stronger?

also, how is the K factory carbon fiber chassis brace (the one on the motorside that replaces the stock chassis braces)?

well? anyone know?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
well? anyone know?

my suggestion would be to get the hardcore radio tray and the c/g tank brace. titanium is stronger hands down. the kfactory tank brace has you remove the stock diff braces and the tank. so this lightens the load. take a look at mine its the kfactory brace but its been modified to fit the hardcore braces:)

[tamiyajoe]

thanks alot, btw great car. but one more q: y do you have those braces?that Kfactory peice replaces it

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
thanks alot, btw great car. but one more q: y do you have those braces?that Kfactory peice replaces it

see what happened was....... i got the ti braces way b4 i ever saw the k factory brace. then i got the k fac brace without knowing that it replace the entire brace unit (downside of online ordering). when i saw the dillema i had i figure why not both soo i chopped the ends of the kfac brace and ground down the body posts and slipped the brace in.....

[Distro]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
my suggestion would be to get the hardcore radio tray and the c/g tank brace. titanium is stronger hands down. the kfactory tank brace has you remove the stock diff braces and the tank. so this lightens the load. take a look at mine its the kfactory brace but its been modified to fit the hardcore braces:)

Titanium is also alot heavier.. Also titanium is not as rigid as carbon fibre which is what you are really after, i'd take carbon fibre over titanium if it was avalible.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Distro
Titanium is also alot heavier.. Also titanium is not as rigid as carbon fibre which is what you are really after, i'd take carbon fibre over titanium if it was avalible.

the carbon graphite piece is easier on the pocket too...
on a side note carbon graphite (its totally different then carbon fiber);)has been know to shatter on impact due to the level of stiffness it has. i wouldnt say that the c/g was stiffer than the ti.. or the other way around. the tank brace was very flexible when i looked at it

[tamiyajoe]

WOW... i found a really nice .12 motor, for 150 buks w/ 1.8 hp & roar legal

just one problem, will it fit the ntc3?


HERE! (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX7&P=K)

[tamiyajoe]

o yea, so about the ti c/f battle: for radio tray, shock towers and dick brakes, wich should i use? i read that that the hardcore ti radio plate is lighter than stock, and if it is stronger than c/f, then wouldnt this be the choice? also look at that motor ^

[Drive4fun]

Ok.. well ive been having my ntc3 for about a month now and im ready for new hop ups. I am currently bashing right now on streets parking lots and parks. I want to improve my car a lot and dont know what should i do first or what to get first. Its currently stock ntc3 rtr except for the steering servo which i upgrade it thats all ive done so far what should be my next steps in to adding to the car except for hotter engine and new electronics basically graphite titanium gearing shocks? .. etc
what should i do next
thanks

[AreCee]

Any small block (.12 or .15) with a SG, Pilot or short threaded shaft either side or rear exhaust with or without pull start will fit in a NTC3 with the appropriate hardware.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
WOW... i found a really nice .12 motor, for 150 buks w/ 1.8 hp & roar legal

just one problem, will it fit the ntc3?


HERE! (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKX7&P=K)
OMG that is completly new! none of us have ever seen an engine like that before!!!:rolleyes:









j/k
Everyone knows about the sirios and they not really new theyve been out for like 8 months. The actual hp rating is 1.4hp, it used to be 1.8hp, which wasnt true and when trinity started distribuating novarossi engines it looked a little unreasonable to have a sirio with 1.8hp and and all the novas with a 1.5 ratings tops. The 1.4 hp is probably the true rating though. They fit into the ntc3 fine I have one, I heard they didnt fit before I got mine, but mine fits fine. You have to use all three of the shims on the screw that holds the clutch bell on, and you need a longer screw to hold the clutch bell on, I used an hpi one. I havent had a chance to break it in yet, but Im a little nervous because Ive heard of alot of people having faulty carbs and I hope mine isnt.
I also heard that its a little tough to tune, but Maveric Racer convinced me to buy one.

[Maverick Racer]

The sirio is a awsome motor.

But there is a second generation of the motor. There are no markings to tell if is the new one except that it has no third needle on the carb. Try to get one of those if you can. They have a crank with a "turbo" scoop and more agressive port timing. They also changed the pinch fit the the older ones have. The new ones have more HP and RPM the older ones have more torque. It's your choice as to what you want or what you LHS has in stock.

Titanium is much heaver than the stock plastic. And the carbon fiber will be lighter than both and stiffer as well. The Hardcore ti chassis is almost twice as heave as the stock ASC chassis.

Either the Carbon composit or the carbon fiber will be much better than the ti stuff. Stick with the asc stuff over the k-factory too. The k-factory stuff sucks ass. I bought both the L & R side braces. The Carbon composit is much stiffer then the k-factory parts. They use horrible graphite with the wrong cut and charge an arm and a leg.



Question for all NTC3 drivers
If a company made a carbonfiber chassis for the NTC3 that was stiffer then everything else out there but weighted the same as most of the real light chassis and was priced at $69.99 would you buy it?

I have not made any but I am just seeing if there is enough interest for me to do a batch or two.

Would you rather have a mat finish, just black, or the regular woven look?

Thanks for any input guys

David Wert
DWR Motors

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
o yea, so about the ti c/f battle: for radio tray, shock towers and dick brakes, wich should i use? i read that that the hardcore ti radio plate is lighter than stock, and if it is stronger than c/f, then wouldnt this be the choice? also look at that motor ^

(watch your spelling........;) lol)
k first things first its NOT c/f carbon fiber!! and titanium is stronger than carbon graphite. for the brake look for the gpm titanium drilled and slotted brake, also titanium(its also very sharp my fingers have had a few encounters with the sharp edge), shock towers leave em stock and put the FIX on it. that or upgrade them to the carbon(with the fix). and the sirio is a good motor to look at but its not the only only one out there for that price range.......

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer

Either the Carbon composit or the carbon fiber will be much better than the ti stuff. Stick with the asc stuff over the k-factory too. The k-factory stuff sucks ass. I bought both the L & R side braces. The Carbon composit is much stiffer then the k-factory parts. They use horrible graphite with the wrong cut and charge an arm and a leg.



Question for all NTC3 drivers
If a company made a carbonfiber chassis for the NTC3 that was stiffer then everything else out there but weighted the same as most of the real light chassis and was priced at $69.99 would you buy it?


for that price im game...... also would it be like the stock chassis with no holes?(personal reasons)
when was that 2nd gen sirio released?....

out side after market is a pain hardcore, kfactory, T.I.R etc. i couldnt begin to tell you the mods and hours ive spent trying to get the car working right on my spare time the only ones i havent had a problem with is..... THE FIX that and the asc factory team stuff. thank gawd i got a normal stock one on the side:D

[Maverick Racer]

Yah there would probably be no holes. The chassis would be machined thick enough so that I could have the mill just make the chassis thiner in the spur area, but I might have to cut it out for rock's sake.

I have no reason to make money off of the product. I am not doing it for fame or fortune. I know I can make one that will performe better than any of the other aftermarket chassis I just can make them cheeper if I do more of them. I have yet to run the numbers through Pro-e but I know that with the right lay-up I can make a chassis that will not only be stiffer and stronger, but look cooler.

Anyway. Got any idea on a finish?

The 2nd gen sirio had been out more then a month. I just go in some motor from some customers and just as I was about to get to work on them I noticed that they were changed from all the other sirios that I had done in the past.

David Wert
DWR Motors

[KronicRacer]

i would say go for the carbon woven look. 3.0~3.5mm thick would be great

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer

The 2nd gen sirio had been out more then a month. I just go in some motor from some customers and just as I was about to get to work on them I noticed that they were changed from all the other sirios that I had done in the past.

David Wert
DWR Motors

Good to hear the new info, however, you mentioned the 3rd needle will be eliminated on the new gen Sirio....what is the 3rd needle that you are talking about..? The Mid-range needle...?

Thanks a million

[Maverick Racer]

yes the mid range neelde is gone. There is just some button on there that has a spray bar but not adjustable. It looks just like the traxxas 2.5 carb in that respect.

[roee]

Maverick, being the motor guru you are - What kind of engine would you suggest I replace my .15CVRX with?

How's the Rossi Black Pixi?

I don't want to lose bottom end just to get insane speeds, nor do I want to have a pain tuning the motor.

Any particular pipe, too?

Thanks!

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
The sirio is a awsome motor.

But there is a second generation of the motor. There are no markings to tell if is the new one except that it has no third needle on the carb. Try to get one of those if you can. They have a crank with a "turbo" scoop and more agressive port timing. They also changed the pinch fit the the older ones have. The new ones have more HP and RPM the older ones have more torque. It's your choice as to what you want or what you LHS has in stock.

Titanium is much heaver than the stock plastic. And the carbon fiber will be lighter than both and stiffer as well. The Hardcore ti chassis is almost twice as heave as the stock ASC chassis.

Either the Carbon composit or the carbon fiber will be much better than the ti stuff. Stick with the asc stuff over the k-factory too. The k-factory stuff sucks ass. I bought both the L & R side braces. The Carbon composit is much stiffer then the k-factory parts. They use horrible graphite with the wrong cut and charge an arm and a leg.



Question for all NTC3 drivers
If a company made a carbonfiber chassis for the NTC3 that was stiffer then everything else out there but weighted the same as most of the real light chassis and was priced at $69.99 would you buy it?

I have not made any but I am just seeing if there is enough interest for me to do a batch or two.

Would you rather have a mat finish, just black, or the regular woven look?

Thanks for any input guys

David Wert
DWR Motors
Are the new ones easier to tune? I still havent broken mine in because I have almost no free time except in the summer and I could try to trade it in for the second generation if its easier to tune, I like the fact that the one I have has more torque though...

Btw about the chassi, wouldnt it have bad heat dissipation?

[Rookie Solara]

To be honest, I don't see carbon fiber will work on .12 engine/200mm TC........I have 2 4mm carbon fiber chassis for the 1/10 235mm Serpent IMPACT with .15 RB engine....the carbon fiber works very good......ONLY because the .15 engine does run a lot cooler then .12 engine (around 230 with the Carbon Fiber chassis and 210 with stock chassis)

However, on my Impulse PRO with MT-12....absolutely unacceptable...(toward 300 degree no matter how RICH I turn).....so I am not sure is the engine, my tunning or the chassis, but I switched back to the OEM chassis.....engine back down to 250 range.......

But technology change everyday, it might happened Carbon fiber chassis is the next thing to do.........

[puma1824]

Here's a general question for everyone. Which CA do you recommend for rubber tire mounting? I used to use some generic stuff from my LHS but I would always rip the tires off the wheels.

Brand, part # and type (thin, med, thick) would be great.

Thanks,
Puma

[tamiyajoe]

Originally posted by puma1824
Here's a general question for everyone. Which CA do you recommend for rubber tire mounting? I used to use some generic stuff from my LHS but I would always rip the tires off the wheels.

Brand, part # and type (thin, med, thick) would be great.

Thanks,
Puma

yea the same thing happened to me. it was some black stuff with the lhs's sticker on it. i dont blame them, there are great over there. wanna help us out?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
To be honest, I don't see carbon fiber will work on .12 engine/200mm TC........I have 2 4mm carbon fiber chassis for the 1/10 235mm Serpent IMPACT with .15 RB engine....the carbon fiber works very good......ONLY because the .15 engine does run a lot cooler then .12 engine (around 230 with the Carbon Fiber chassis and 210 with stock chassis)

However, on my Impulse PRO with MT-12....absolutely unacceptable...(toward 300 degree no matter how RICH I turn).....so I am not sure is the engine, my tunning or the chassis, but I switched back to the OEM chassis.....engine back down to 250 range.......

But technology change everyday, it might happened Carbon fiber chassis is the next thing to do.........

it all comes with a price click here (http://www.spencercomposites.com/composites.html) like you said with the technology and $$$$ it can happen.

[Distro]

Originally posted by puma1824
Here's a general question for everyone. Which CA do you recommend for rubber tire mounting? I used to use some generic stuff from my LHS but I would always rip the tires off the wheels.

Brand, part # and type (thin, med, thick) would be great.

Thanks,
Puma

Get some thin zap a gap. I think its the pink bottle.

[Distro]

Unless we start using water cooled engines it won't happen. The engines need surface area to dissipate the heat and the chassis provides alot of surface area. Since carbon fibre does not heat up like metal does it will not be the best substitute.

[Maverick Racer]

Roee- I would go with either a Sirio or a Mugen MR-12. Both of them are great motors with plenty of power. For modded motors I am still a little partial to the mugen just because of the longer stroke. The sirio is the only one of .12 race motors to have a short stroke. In the novarossi lineup there are short rod and long rod but the stroke is all the same. The sirio actually has a shorter stroke with a larger bore. It has a shorter piston which limits some of the piston work that I can do to it, but again I'm talking a full moded motor. In stock form they both are great motors. The Rossi is way overpriced and will not give you any more HP then the mugen or sirio. You can get a modded mugen for the price of the rossi and it would blow it's dorrs off.

Pro 3- It has not shown to be any easier to tune, but the stock sirio's are so easy to tune from the start I wouldnt even worry about it. The more torque is a nice benifit of the older motors

Distro & Rookie - Allthough I have no chassis in my hands right now to try I have tried to simulate to my best ability using carbon and phenloic washers to stop the transfer of heat to the chassis. As of now I have not seen any increase in running temp. I am just going to have to prototype one of them and find out. But I am confident that there will be no problem. Carbonfiber will not absorb heat to the extent that alluminum will but it still can be "heat soaked" If possible I am trying to find out if I can get some carbon fiber that has a layer of aluminum inbetween, much like the corelite carbonfiber just with a differnt core material. I dont know how possible it is but, we shall see. For now I will just finish the regular 100% carbonfiber chassis

any more critisizem or ideas are appreciated.

[TSR6]

The Fix? http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?postid=368757

[jscamry]

does anyone know where i can find info on the Picco P-15 RR Rear Exhaust, slide carb engine? I am trying to find the specs on this engine, for a friend.

Thanks Jason

[waileun]

Originally posted by powertrip
What do you think of the tuned exhaust from associated??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN9&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN4&P=K

If you are running your NTC3 in a very small and technical track, better try other pipes.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by TSR6
The Fix? http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?postid=368757

LOL

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by TSR6
The Fix? http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?postid=368757

Really.....LMAO

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer


Either the Carbon composit or the carbon fiber will be much better than the ti stuff. Stick with the asc stuff over the k-factory too. The k-factory stuff sucks ass. I bought both the L & R side braces. The Carbon composit is much stiffer then the k-factory parts. They use horrible graphite with the wrong cut and charge an arm and a leg.



I don't think the K Factory stuff sucks, nor do I see where you get they used the wrong carbon fiber and the wrong cut. Can you explain? It's true they charge an arm and a leg (thank you Trinity!) but it's a very solid platform once built. They did make some interesting choices in their design though such as leaving out a place for the on off switch? What the hell is up with that? They also keyed the brace and radio plate directly into the diff housing and eliminated the braces, which means instead of 6 screws to remove the radio plate, you know have to take half the car apart just to clean it! Nearly everything else they make is well done though.

I'll be running it this weekend for the first time and hopefully, Rookie will be there to test drive it as well and provide feedback.

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/ntc3alls.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/ntc3fronts.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/ntc3rears.jpg

[KronicRacer]

hello evil custom twin. very nice custom car!! 1 question why those towers? k factory has2 different ones, so why the standard ones? and did you get the t.i.r. ti. drive shaft? or the hard coated aluminum one. :cool:

[Pro3/nmt105]

I dont understand why people put so much aluminum on their ntc3s, I doubt it really keeps it from breaking it just transfers the stress to another part. I personally think the ntc3 looks best with out aluminum parts (except eyecandy washers and stuff). I can see the shocktowers by k factory that have a fix built in though, those would be nice.

Anyone see the new chassi and shock towers by 3 racing? they look pretty sweet and the chassi is a good price.

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/tc3008sa.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/3racingntc3.jpg

[KronicRacer]

i like this one better;)

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
hello evil custom twin. very nice custom car!! 1 question why those towers? k factory has2 different ones, so why the standard ones? and did you get the t.i.r. ti. drive shaft? or the hard coated aluminum one. :cool:

I got the regular ones because it was part of a package deal I couldn't refuse price wise, but I would definately get the new ones if I were to do it over again. I just put the blue associated shaft in there because the local shop had it.

Future up grades planned:

K Factory
K1241 Aluminum Swing Rack
K1242 Front Anti Roll Bar
K1244 One Way
K1207 NTC3 Alum. R/L Steering / Hub Carriers for the back

Associated:
Carbon Graphite Upgrade Set
Blue Aluminum Shock Caps


Other
2 Fuel Filters
Custom Painted Body
Titanium pillow balls

Any more suggestion appreciated!

Pro3/nmt105, you are in the minority. I think the stock NTC3 and TC3 look so bland. Great cars but neither would win a beauty contest. I think hopping up a car to the extreme is a riot. Unfortunately, its very expensive but when you get done, you have an impressive, outragously expensive monument to carbon fiber and machined metal (which is actually fun in its own way)!

I'm going to drive it a few times to test it to see how much different it is from the stock version, then I will shelve it and get another NTC3 with just the fix and the ASC c/f radio tray with eye candy washers to race.

[Drive4fun]

ok well i got 200$ to spend on my rtr ntc3 i would like some parts stronger than the rtr crap i already snapped the pivot balls broke an arm broke 2 hub carriers lost a screw and a nut etc.. im looking for stronger parts dont know what to go with so need help im getting the 2 speed thats all i know for now so help out tell me there are so many freakn option parts for this car i dont know what to go with my recent car has been an electric hpi and it had not many hop ups so i need help on this guys thankz

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
Pro3/nmt105, you are in the minority. I think the stock NTC3 and TC3 look so bland. Great cars but neither would win a beauty contest. I think hopping up a car to the extreme is a riot. Unfortunately, its very expensive but when you get done, you have an impressive, outragously expensive monument to carbon fiber and machined metal (which is actually fun in its own way)!

I'm going to drive it a few times to test it to see how much different it is from the stock version, then I will shelve it and get another NTC3 with just the fix and the ASC c/f radio tray with eye candy washers to race.
I didnt mean to insult you or anything, I like small eyecandy pieces like screws, washers shock caps and stuff like that and I also think that the car looks bad without the graphite upperdeck, I just dont like the big pieces... I think Rookie Saloria has the nicest looking car Ive ever seen, he runs aluminum upper arms but they look pretty sweet on his car.

[HauntedMyst]

You didn't insult me at all! Different strokes for different folks. I like Rookies as well and will probably do something like that to my runner. For $275, Associated should have put the C/F deck on the car in the first place for looks alone if for nothing else.

[Raydee]

My buddy and I are looking to get a Hudy board to use on out NTC3's. Will any 1/10 hudy board work without a problem?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
You didn't insult me at all! Different strokes for different folks. I like Rookies as well and will probably do something like that to my runner. For $275, Associated should have put the C/F deck on the car in the first place for looks alone if for nothing else.

that or just come out with the factory team car it with every single option they have. (personally i think that would take the fun away from hoppin them up, but thats me)

[rocky1222]

I just bought a ntc3 rtr. Just wondering what i can expect from this car,and if anyone can recomend ant upgrades. thanx joe

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Raydee
My buddy and I are looking to get a Hudy board to use on out NTC3's. Will any 1/10 hudy board work without a problem?

This is what I told everyone here about HUDY board......go to hardware store and get a BIGGER pre-laminated board....of course, ppl will say HUDY one are much flatter and straighter board then any hardware store version....for me, $1.00 board versus $20 plus board is the different....so, you decide.

About the HUDY sticker, DO NOT get 1/10th scale, get 1/8th scale instead, the price are very much the same, but if you have a bigger board, the 1/8th one will give you exact same scales from the 1/10th but it also give you 1/8th (incase you will get some 1/8th later)

For the setup system........DO NOT get HUDY, HUDY rear plates does not fit NTC3 unless you dremal some plastic off the setup system......so why bother.....
Go to ww.speedtechrc.com or ask around and get the INTEGY setup system....it is cheap, nicer, and perfect fit standard like NTC3 and metric like MTX-3/705......

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/setup/P0003530.JPG

[TC3Kamikaze]

Joe
Just get used to the car first then upgrade as needed. I'd go for the two speed, spares, threaded shocks and bearings for the steering. Of course if I was on planing to race it that is.
Rookie
Nice tips and sweet looking setup system. I always liked the Intergy setup system compared to the Hudy. It's the color...:D
TC3

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
that or just come out with the factory team car it with every single option they have. (personally i think that would take the fun away from hoppin them up, but thats me)
I wonder if the FT would come with the carbon suspension parts, because Ive heard they break more easily, although they are stiffer for better performance. I think alot of people gave up on the ntc3s because of the carbon suspension kit, people wanted their ntc3s to be stronger so they bought the carbon kit, only to find that their ntc3 started breaking more and just gave up on the car saying its too fragile.

[KronicRacer]

i know its not the ntc3 but check this mess out team magic (http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/product.php?productid=16634&cat=389&page=1)

[TC3Kamikaze]

I still think that tank looks like a speed boat. Overall the car isn't bad I won't judge till it gets sometime on the road.
TC3

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I don't think the K Factory stuff sucks, nor do I see where you get they used the wrong carbon fiber and the wrong cut. Can you explain? It's true they charge an arm and a leg (thank you Trinity!) but it's a very solid platform once built. They did make some interesting choices in their design though such as leaving out a place for the on off switch? What the hell is up with that? They also keyed the brace and radio plate directly into the diff housing and eliminated the braces, which means instead of 6 screws to remove the radio plate, you know have to take half the car apart just to clean it! Nearly everything else they make is well done though.

I'll be running it this weekend for the first time and hopefully, Rookie will be there to test drive it as well and provide feedback.


There are about 4-5 different carbon fiber patterns that can be used to get max L to R rigidity and max front to back rigidity. The weve that they used for the thickness could have used a 45 degree cross patteren on each layer. They did not use it. Holding it in my hand before I installed it, it was more flexable then my carbon composit molded upgrade that cost $8. Mine is also cut to long. I measured the distance between the asc upgrade + radio plate braces and the k-factory one is off by about 1.5 mm. It is too long and makes the upper deck bow. I will post some pictures. At first I thought that it was somthing that was hitting on the chassis, but it is infact longer then the asc stock parts that it replaces. But I milled it out to work just because I liked the cool factor. But when I pay $75 on graphite parts I expect everything to fit perfectly.

[HauntedMyst]

Cool, I look forward to seeing the pictures. I didn't know anything about CF patterns so thanks for the info. On mine, the whole combination is super stiff. When I was building mine, everything fit perfectly...almost. The problem I had was with the engine side brace. It fit the car fine but when I went to install the Centax clutch, it didnt fit. They didn't bother to design it to fit with their own clutch so I had to grind down the brace. Then I installed the engine and their rear arm mount is to big to fit with the Centax clutch. Again, two pieces of their own equipment didnt work together!

[kreidel1]

Does a Centax Clutch work on both standard and pilot shaft engines or just pilot shaft ones?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by kreidel1
Does a Centax Clutch work on both standard and pilot shaft engines or just pilot shaft ones?
the k fac. works on just the pilot shaft.

[mckrooz]

Any one have this problem? My front wheels when turning have sawed away my shock eyelet when mounted on the outside hole on the lower arm. I replaced it and it's almost sawed completely through the new one. It only does it to the left side(when looking at it from the top)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Any one have this problem? My front wheels when turning have sawed away my shock eyelet when mounted on the outside hole on the lower arm. I replaced it and it's almost sawed completely through the new one. It only does it to the left side(when looking at it from the top)

what width on the tires are you using and is your track width set. that and make sure you toe isnt too negative. the toe in sounds off

[spawn]

Guys, which chasis is better and stronger, Golden Horizon or RDlogics? Anyone also using the kfactory left brace to protect the fuel tank? any good?

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
what width on the tires are you using and is your track width set. that and make sure you toe isnt too negative. the toe in sounds off

I'm using Nitro Shoes 26mm. I have the toe set at 0 degrees. I'll have to double check the track width. Also, at full brake, the car spins into a 180. Also it pulls to one side at full throttle. Please tell me that my droop or something is off and not my chassis.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by mckrooz
I'm using Nitro Shoes 26mm. I have the toe set at 0 degrees. I'll have to double check the track width. Also, at full brake, the car spins into a 180. Also it pulls to one side at full throttle. Please tell me that my droop or something is off and not my chassis.

you sure its not an hpi? :D ;)

it sounds like its the track width.... the best thing to do is set the rear track with the lil gauge that came with the car. then set the camber. then go to the front and do the same..... also check to see if you castor spacer are still in place front only. if the car keeps doing what its doing after youve set it up, check the radio end points. you may have to recalibrate you settings on the radio

[kreidel1]

I installed it and cant figure out how to adjust it externally. I know there is a way to do this and I assume it is through 1 of the 2 holes in the clutch bell.....but not sure how to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Distro]

There is a small hole on the cluch bell which you need to stick something strong through there and grab the notch on the nut on the inside. Then you just have to turn the flywheel to tighten (increase the time before the clutch engages) or un tighten it to decrease the time before the clutch engages.

[us_matrix]

Hi Rookie or whoever owns 3PK...

I have a 3PK w/PCM receiver and Futuab digital servos. I knew you can activate Failsafe from radio if you have HRS receiver. But what about PCM receiver? Can i use Failsafe featuer from PCM receiver? Anything else i need ?

Thanks.

[Drive4fun]

OK what do the terms mean

4 stroking
And how do i know what rpm % of the car it is at the point
thx

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi Rookie or whoever owns 3PK...

I have a 3PK w/PCM receiver and Futuab digital servos. I knew you can activate Failsafe from radio if you have HRS receiver. But what about PCM receiver? Can i use Failsafe featuer from PCM receiver? Anything else i need ?

Thanks.

Read the manual again, 3PK's fail safe is on PCM receiver and HRS receiver ONLY......you cannot activate the fail safe on PPM/FM receiver....

I don't have the manuel with me now, but my PCM receiver does kick in to the FULL BRAKE position when I turned off my transmitter in purpose(you have to assign the final position of your throttle servo when the fail safe kicks in...you want it full brake or idle, make sure NOT WOT position)........At one time, my transmitter ran out of batteries, and my NTC3 was WOT on the straight then suddenly kicks in to FULL BRAKES and stop in the middle of the track.......THAT was awesome.

Also, fail safe won't work unless you turn your transmitter/receiver for MORE then 1 minute, if you want to do testing, leave them ON for at least 1 minute then turn off your transmitter.....and check your throttle servo FULL BRAKE position.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

OK, so here's the deal...... stripped screw heads..... am I doing something wrong, or is there another solution. My plan is to pick up a new set of drivers, and screws. Would the "factory team" aluminum screw set be worth it, or is it going to do the same thing? Has anyone purchased the Hardcore Racing Titanium Screw set, and would you do it again given the choice?

[TC3Kamikaze]

The thing that helped me the most was a good set of drivers. I've talked to a few guys here that like the hardcore screws. But for the money the stock screws seem best to me.
I'm going to replace my chassis this week. Any suggestions on what aftermarket or team chassis to get?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Also, fail safe won't work unless you turn your transmitter/receiver for MORE then 1 minute, if you want to do testing, leave them ON for at least 1 minute then turn off your transmitter.....and check your throttle servo FULL BRAKE position.
I think thats only after you change it, the reciever only checks for new failsafe settings every three minutes, but I think it saves your previous failsafe setting even if you turn it off... Ill test it.

[MasterCard]

Hi Guys!

I have just popped into this forum and was reading all the posts you'd submitted.

I have 2 NTC3s. One is almost ready with KFactory parts and hopups, the other is slightly hopped up.

I ran my "slightly hopped up" NTC3 2 days ago with rubber tires, 5-Port X12 Turbo, Kfactory Centax on the oily/slippery track for the first time and didn't quite catch the tuning.

I have just bought a set of 37S (Front), 35S (Rear) yesterday and will be trying it out at the track again today.

Setup is:
Front
Copper Spring
40wt Oil

Rear
Gold Spring
40wt oil.

I have read all the setup sheets from rc10.com posted with Barry's setup. Was wondering if you guys have any other interesting setups??

For the first time out with my NTC3, I think hopups are just eye-candy and it ran very well, though I cannot get it to run as though "on rails", but I feel that I'm close to the perfect setup with the correct tires, when racing with my buggy and another fast guy.

Could anyone post his setup here as well?

Thanks!
Alfie

[Walt]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
OK, so here's the deal...... stripped screw heads..... am I doing something wrong, or is there another solution. My plan is to pick up a new set of drivers, and screws. Would the "factory team" aluminum screw set be worth it, or is it going to do the same thing? Has anyone purchased the Hardcore Racing Titanium Screw set, and would you do it again given the choice?

You are not doing anything wrong... Associated did something wrong when the specified the screws for the TC3 (as well as most of their other cars). I've written to Associated many times to complain about their screws, and they always say that I'm the only one who has ever complained, so please write them and complain.

First of all, they use 4-40 machine screws as self taping screws into plastic. This is the worst use of a screw that I've ever seen. The super-fine threads on a machine screw can NOT grab onto plastic... they are designed to go into metal that has been tapped ahead of time.

Then they put these tiny little allen heads on them. Even with the best drivers, you'd be lucky to get all of them in without stripping. Some of the screws that came with my NTC3 kit were so poorly made that you couldn't even see that the allen head was a hexagon... it looked like a perfect circle. No way any tool would grab onto it. I could hold the thread part in my fingers and not be able to turn it with a good allen driver.. these screws were clearly defective, besides being the wrong screws for the application.

And even if you did get those screws in, the ones on the bottom of the chassis will get some damage, and then you'll never get them out. Allen head screws need to be perfect for them to work. Even the slightest damage will make it impossible to get a tool into them, and they are impossible to repair.

Here's what I did. I went to the hobby shop and bought a bunch of packages of HPI screws. I'm not saying that HPI makes better cars, but they DO use much better screws, and appropriate screws for the job. Their 'TP' screws are properly designed to thread into plastic, and they work great. I'm sure other companies are the same way, I'm just familiar with HPI screws, so I knew those would work. The HPI screws also have a very nicely made #2 phillips head. If you get a good #2 phillips driver, you'll have no trouble getting them in. And even after they have been severely damaged from contact with rocks or the ground, you can clean out the phillips head and still get a driver in there to remove them.

I have not had a single screw get loose on my NTC3 yet, and I also have not had any trouble with my shock tower coming off or the differential housing coming apart (I don't have the 'fix'). With the screws that I've got in there, the plastic parts would have to break before the screws would strip out. The real problem with the NTC3 that requires 'the fix' is improper screw selection, in my opinion.

If the designers of the NTC3 were registered professional engineers, they would loose their license for putting machine screws into plastic as self tapers

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Walt
If the designers of the NTC3 were registered professional engineers, they would loose their license for putting machine screws into plastic as self tapers

Ha ha.....I already gave up talking about their quality of screws and plastic.....so I do the other alternative....stay away from any boards and cars on the main.

I really want to hear who DOES NOT have problem (NOT one single stripping problem) of their NTC3 with those screws/plastic....because we might missing some steps when we building the cars....

Last....if you have to upgrade the screws (and still want to use 4-40), DO NOT get any light weight eye candy titanium this or that screws....they are waste of money, and break as easy as the stock one.....however, you can use those on the area like shocks or upper deck that DOES NOT required a lot of strain/load.....for the bottom of the chassis, use the stock black screws.

From my last sunday race, I snapped both STOCK SCREWS that mounted underneath the handle bar.......both screws SNAPPED..........in what WAY of the world that could happen...? The handle bar..? In the middle of the whole car....? Both snapped? and that is the 2nd times that happened to me....

[Walt]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
From my last sunday race, I snapped both STOCK SCREWS that mounted underneath the handle bar.......both screws SNAPPED..........in what WAY of the world that could happen...? The handle bar..? In the middle of the whole car....? Both snapped? and that is the 2nd times that happened to me....

Did the screws snap, or just pull out of the plastic. If they just pulled out, I'm not surprised. I'm actually surprised that two 4-40 screws into plastic hold that handle (or anything else for that matter) in the first place.

If the screws did snap, I bet what happens is the screws pull out a little first, and then once it's no longer a tight fit, the handle has extra leverage to snap the screws. Screws are only intended to be used as clamping devices... they shouldn't have to resist bending (I know, I know, in the design of these cars, they almost ALWAYS are used inappropriately... doesn't make it right).

[Wyle E. Coyote]

WOO HOO!!! I'm not crazy, or completely retarded. That's a relief. Now back to finding a solution. It sounds like the most cost effective thing to do is either replace them with HPI's screws or keep a few extra "normal" screws on hand. Hmmmm... I wonder if my local hardware store has any "normal" phillips screws in the sizes I would need...

[Walt]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
Hmmmm... I wonder if my local hardware store has any "normal" phillips screws in the sizes I would need...

I doubt it... self taping plastic screws (not made of plastic, but intended to thread into plastic) are pretty rare, especially if you want countersunk screws like we need for RC. You'll probably have to go to the hobby shop.

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Ha ha.....I already gave up talking about their quality of screws and plastic.....so I do the other alternative....stay away from any boards and cars on the main.

I really want to hear who DOES NOT have problem (NOT one single stripping problem) of their NTC3 with those screws/plastic....because we might missing some steps when we building the cars....

Last....if you have to upgrade the screws (and still want to use 4-40), DO NOT get any light weight eye candy titanium this or that screws....they are waste of money, and break as easy as the stock one.....however, you can use those on the area like shocks or upper deck that DOES NOT required a lot of strain/load.....for the bottom of the chassis, use the stock black screws.

From my last sunday race, I snapped both STOCK SCREWS that mounted underneath the handle bar.......both screws SNAPPED..........in what WAY of the world that could happen...? The handle bar..? In the middle of the whole car....? Both snapped? and that is the 2nd times that happened to me....

I am running all the stock screws that came with my NTC3. So are all my customers. I use thorp MIP hex wrenches, the ones with the tungston carbide bit. I have never even had a screw break. I have no idea what you guys are having happen. There are 20 NTC3 that our shop has sold, all to racers and we have never had a complaint on the screws.

6 years of being in a shop I have never had people complain about asc screws, except for the ones that come with the RTR's.

[Walt]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
I am running all the stock screws that came with my NTC3. So are all my customers. I use thorp MIP hex wrenches, the ones with the tungston carbide bit. I have never even had a screw break. I have no idea what you guys are having happen. There are 20 NTC3 that our shop has sold, all to racers and we have never had a complaint on the screws.

6 years of being in a shop I have never had people complain about asc screws, except for the ones that come with the RTR's.

I really think that the problem is that people just don't complain. The screws that came with my car were just plain defective. I have very good tools. No tool would have put those screws in. Even if the screws were not defective (probably 90% were not defective), they are the wrong screws for the job. There is no argueing that machine screws are not the right screw to thread into plastic. They just aren't. They can still be used, and maybe can still do the job, but they still are not the right screw for the job.

I wonder if the designers at Associated also use machine screws to hold the drywall to their walls and ceilings at home instead of drywall screws? When they do sheetmetal work do they use machine screws instead of sheet metal screws? If so, their house is probably falling apart, just like their cars are falling apart.

And how can people read this thread and say that they have never heard a complaint about Asc screws... haven't you read all the many, many posts about 'the fix'. 'The fix' is needed because the Associated screws pull out. You had to have heard about that if you just read this forum.

[Tee]

Walt,
I can tell you without a doubt that the screw quality is not what it was and that's the majority of the problem. Some of these new screws AE provided in my NTC3 kit barely cut a thread into the plastic, and the oxide coating is easily removed by using the screw more than once it looks like. Leftover screws from my older RC10 kits stay black, cut real threads and seem to take 2-3 times more torque to put in. You can actually see with your eye that the "new screws" that come in the new kits are undersize when compared to the old kit screws.

Maverick Racer,
you talk way too much, but I want to thank you for pointing me in the direction of JPH (I hate mail order, I have to have it NOW), as I was able to waltz on in and pick up some of those "Jim Reeve's The Fix" packages (I try to read in between the lines). But what is up with those "The Fix" that JPH sells saying "distributed by JPH" ? Are they manufactured locally under license? Not that something like that matters, since this is not like a Novarossi copy cast in Santa Rosa, if you get what I mean.

[Maverick Racer]

Any store that carries the fix is a ditributer of it. When we placed the order for them they printed it on the package for us. Any store that sells them has their name printed on it. Do I know you???

Talking to much, hmm dont know how to take that one. How did I point to to the shop. Just curious. I feel like am missing somthing. huh.

[KronicRacer]

down here in so. fla. most of the guys running ntc3 are using the hardcore titanium scerws, or the racers edge stainless steel screw kits i run the racers edge myself. they dont strip like the asc screws. asc screws are too soft imo.

[didrace]

Hello guys I plan to buy a ntc3 and I plan to run series racings. There are a lot of post of this car on this forum and i can't read everything. So those of you who followed the forums and those you who know everything about the ntc3 can you just summarise me what i must do to make this car as good as possible. What hop up parts from where what engine and whatever other mods if there are. Is there any car better than the ntc3?


Thanks guys have a nice day!!!

Regards, Demetris

[mckrooz]

Ran my car the other day with the one way and all I can say is what a difference this thing makes on the handling! Before, I couldn't get the car to corner well. It seriously made me look like a better driver. I can actually hold my own against the Mugens and Yokomos. I'm ready to rock now. We put in an order for the V1R for my brother so we can battle.:D

[number11]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
So far, there are 3 solutions about the rear turn buckle fix...



Hey Rookie,

This is a damn good idea. I hit a board in the main and popped off my ball cup. Then it knocked my toe out completely. I was able to finish the race but when I lloked at my car to see what was wrong my toe in was out to a +3 degrees. I am going to try this solution. Thanks.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
down here in so. fla. most of the guys running ntc3 are using the hardcore titanium scerws, or the racers edge stainless steel screw kits i run the racers edge myself. they dont strip like the asc screws. asc screws are too soft imo.
I think the aluminum AE screws are way too soft and strip out often even with my good hex drivers, but Ive had no problems with the steel screws on my ntc3, except that one was manufactured with a round indent in it rather than a hex, and couldnt be used.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
Any store that carries the fix is a ditributer of it. When we placed the order for them they printed it on the package for us. Any store that sells them has their name printed on it. Do I know you???

Talking to much, hmm dont know how to take that one. How did I point to to the shop. Just curious. I feel like am missing somthing. huh.
Do you know if any online stores carry "the fix" Id like to get it but I dont want to just send the money to someone, even though Ive heard only good feedback about him.

[mckrooz]

He truly is an honest guy. I received my fix from him in 3 days. I don't see a problem with fraud if that's what you're concerned with. I don't know of any online stores that sell them.

[speedydave]

Just buy it off Ebay. It's worth it.

[jscamry]

Hey all, I have a JR XR3 radio. I have a nitro tc3 that is using the standard reciver that came with the XR3, hoever I want to get another reciver that i can use with a nitro truck that i own. What are the main requirements that go along with buying a different reciever company then radio company? besides the 75 mhz or 27mhz, am or Fm??

thanks all
J.

[Distro]

I kn ow the guy that makes it and sells it, and they aren't gonna take your money and run. They are good guys.

[tamiyajoe]

ok, well im upgrading my ntc3 and i wanted to know info about gears. i want the car to be faster then the stock gears, but still have good acceleration. which gears (1st and 2nd, spur and pinion) should i get? and also, is the golden horizens chassis/motor mount combo good? b/c i mite buy it.

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Do you know if any online stores carry "the fix" Id like to get it but I dont want to just send the money to someone, even though Ive heard only good feedback about him.

www.jphracing.com. Call us or send him an e-mail. We just got allmost 30 more sets in. Same price as what is on e-bay. Dont have the online ordering up yet but we do mail order everyday.

[Walt]

Originally posted by jscamry
Hey all, I have a JR XR3 radio. I have a nitro tc3 that is using the standard reciver that came with the XR3, hoever I want to get another reciver that i can use with a nitro truck that i own. What are the main requirements that go along with buying a different reciever company then radio company? besides the 75 mhz or 27mhz, am or Fm??

thanks all
J.

My understading is that you have to run the same make of crystal in the receiver as the radio brand, but there might be more to it than that (so you can buy a Novak XXL receiver, and it will work with any FM radio, but only if you use JR receiver crystals to match your JR receiver).

However, to be totally safe, you'd want to either bring your radio with to the store to test it out before you leave (some placed don't like elctronic items to be returned). Or, better yet, just get the JR receiver that comes with the XS3 radio. It's the synthesized one, so no crystals to buy, and you can find it for under $70... not too bad of a price for a 'non-synthesized' receiver.

[Walt]

I saw some poor sap at the track this past Sunday break 3 Associated fuel tanks on his NTC3 (that's right... three tanks in one day... poor Howard, aka, Rookie)

So, what is the deal with the fuel tank problem? Is there a tank out there that can take a hard hit from the pipe and not split? Or should we be coming up with 'the fix-2'... maybe something that securely keeps the pipe from contacting the tank in a hard lick? Maybe I should design something like this... I know I could sell one to Rookie.

[kreidel1]

That is odd...I have never busted a tank nor any of my friends I race with so I cant imagine it being that huge of a problem. I guess they should buy a MTX3 or something and that should do better if you are breaking gas tanks.

[Walt]

Originally posted by kreidel1
That is odd...I have never busted a tank nor any of my friends I race with so I cant imagine it being that huge of a problem. I guess they should buy a MTX3 or something and that should do better if you are breaking gas tanks.

It hasn't happened to me either (yet), but I can certainly see how it can happen. If someone runs right into the left side of the NTC3, the collision can and will push the pipe right into the seam of the fuel tank... it's weakest point. You almost couldn't have a better design for breaking tanks.

[joop1987]

I slid into a rubber come, broke the nipple off the pipe, and split the gas tank. It's a great design for associate cuz they just made $20 for pipe and $15 for gas tank.

I don't understand why they use 2 different heads. Its not like the pan head's (small hex) hole better than the square head (larger hex). Both are 4-40's.

[Animeboy123]

O.K. i am thinking of getting a NTC3. I was just wondering what is a good engine for it?? any links or pics would be great ^_^x.




Thanks alot, The Wandering Samurai ^_^x

[TC3Kamikaze]

Here's a partial list of engines.
Sirio .12 either roar or outlaw
MT .12
OS .12 TR
pretty much any novarossi based engine will make it fly.
TC3

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Ha ha.....I already gave up talking about their quality of screws and plastic.....so I do the other alternative....stay away from any boards and cars on the main.

I really want to hear who DOES NOT have problem (NOT one single stripping problem) of their NTC3 with those screws/plastic....because we might missing some steps when we building the cars....

Last....if you have to upgrade the screws (and still want to use 4-40), DO NOT get any light weight eye candy titanium this or that screws....they are waste of money, and break as easy as the stock one.....however, you can use those on the area like shocks or upper deck that DOES NOT required a lot of strain/load.....for the bottom of the chassis, use the stock black screws.

From my last sunday race, I snapped both STOCK SCREWS that mounted underneath the handle bar.......both screws SNAPPED..........in what WAY of the world that could happen...? The handle bar..? In the middle of the whole car....? Both snapped? and that is the 2nd times that happened to me....

I havent stripped any YET.........
Touch wood

[Rookie Solara]

Guys.........your TIME is not here YETTTTTTTTTTT................

Walt and I just finished a 2.4 hour endurance race, and Walt is our team director and good thing is our TEAM NTC3 did took over the serpent/V1Rs and took the 1st place finish.......

However, myself, did pay a little price on that first place finish.......3 broken tank (2 of those tank broken within 15 minutes on the endurance race).......and one broken brand new Nitro shoes rims.

First Nitro shoes foams, I had a very good feeling about their foams, and I think it is even better then Eleggi, untill I've got T-boned by some slower cars that won't let me pass him (at least several laps over that slower guys)........ripped the whole rims out of the new foams.......done for the day. HOWEVER, I am sure that happen to Ellegi too, but I've seen alot of broken Nitro shoes rims then before........and now, it finally happen to me....but again, I think that is bad luck.

OK....back to the tank.........TRY TO push the side wall of the tank (but not too hard), you can push in those thin plastic....that is exactly where it crack........not by itself, by the dual chamber pipe or whatever pipe that you are using....

Again, I was trying to pass the slower driver (this time, I am at least 30-50 laps beyond this racer).......he is too nervous, turned outside and try to let me pass. but he forgot to brake, it hit the wall, bounce back to me side way toward my pipe WOT........then I hit the wall, and then the other SLOWER car hit me WOT on the side again...........my engine die.......of course, cause my tank is a CONVERTABLE tank now...the whole upper portion splitted into 2.......bad luck, yes....

Get another tank.........and get back to the race, TRY to pass another guy.....BAD CHOICE.......got tap on the side again, and it CRACK the side wall of the tank, rear wheel loosing trackion due ot the fuel on the foam, and my teammate refuel me and all the fuel came out from the bottom of the chassis.........good think they don't smoke.

I finally finished the race by using the third tank.......and by NOT passing ANY ONE at all..........good thing we built up a good amount of laps over the 2nd teams, otherwise, I can see the 4th, 5th and 6th tanks coming.........

I really don't want to CRY about the tank case........but Barry Baker did break NTC3 X numbes of times.......however, I didn't hear Mugen/Yokomo/Serpent ppl break their tank that often, you can say thier tank location is protected by $100 Recevier or Digital Servos........but can AE did soemthing about it...? I really really don't think K-factory's carbon side bracing can help, and really don't want to get one and proved that REALLY WORKS.......but AE definitely need to do something about that.

Meanwhile, I am using SERPENT IMPACT fuel tank for the rest of the season........and use the NTC3 one for emergency......can't afford $20-30 just for tanks for one day of racing on top of the $20 race fee, $25 fuel and $40 foam tires....

[Animeboy123]

O.K. i have been looking at some engines and i was wondering is the O.S. .12 CV-X w/Recoil a good choice???

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ15&P=0

[tamiyajoe]

wow, this thread is slowing down... o well.

hey, how are these tools? alot cheeper then the assc. ones

tools (http://www.sslorder.com/speedtechrc/75.html)

[kreidel1]

Animeboy123,

Go back through all the differnet posts and you will learn everything you need to know. There is tons of valuable information there and you will find alot of different answers to your questions. Just take some time and read....and if you still cant figure it out then write down on seperate peices of paper all the names of the differnet engines you want and drop them into a hat. Shake the hat up and reach in (make sure your eyes are closed so your not cheating) and pull out a name. Read the name out loud ( but save the paper...you will need it later) until it doesnt sound like a name anymore and then try and order it over the phone using one of those voices scramblers. Then when you get the package in the mail, grab the peice of paper that has your engine name on it (this is why you wanted to save it) and see if they match up. If they do then everythings is great....if they dont then try this all over again.

[Ford850]

I was planing on getting a O.S. .12CVR-X motor for my NTC3, because I didn't want to use a starter box. Now I decided to get a .12 TR motor for my car. Is this the best start box to use for the NTC3?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7

I car is set up for a side exhast motor now. What did I need to run a rear exhast motor?

Thanks

[number11]

Originally posted by Ford850
I was planing on getting a O.S. .12CVR-X motor for my NTC3, because I didn't want to use a starter box. Now I decided to get a .12 TR motor for my car. Is this the best start box to use for the NTC3?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7

I car is set up for a side exhast motor now. What did I need to run a rear exhast motor?

Thanks

You can't go wrong with this box it was made for the NTC3.

You need a pipe and exhaust manifold.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by Ford850
I was planing on getting a O.S. .12CVR-X motor for my NTC3, because I didn't want to use a starter box. Now I decided to get a .12 TR motor for my car. Is this the best start box to use for the NTC3?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7

I car is set up for a side exhast motor now. What did I need to run a rear exhast motor?

Thanks

Don't forget if you want to get the benefits of a lower CG then get the non-pull mount and flywheel. Furthermore you need the exhaust wire mount for the rear exhaust and spring for the manifold.

-Puma

[ice-wolf]

My wife bougt me a mtx3 :o wiht the engine and I was surpize:)
stay all night to put together,the next morning went to play guess what?rock went to belt mess up my front,side belt:mad: So i'm putting my damm car(mtx3)for really,really long time. took my ntc3
and i have a blast and forgot about the other car

] !!!!!!!!!NTC3 RULE!!!!!!!!!! :D BELT SUCK, DRIVESHAFT THE BEST #1

[oN_dUbZ]

hey whats up guys..I have a HPI Nitro RS4-3 RTR that im about to sell and I have gathered up my money and now ready to step into some REAL RC'in. So i have decided to buy a NTC3 TEAM kit. I have around $600 to spend so I need some ideas guys. I would like the non-pull rear exhaust because I think that nonpulls have more power im guessing? Well either way I would like to make a list of crap that I would need to start bashing/and some racing again. Keep in mind I will have NOTHING. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING..everything im selling with my old nitro. So i will need everything from gas to fuel bottles and glues and everything. So lets start making the list guys :D

[oN_dUbZ]

also i will mostly be using this car for bashing and a little racing...like 70%bash/30%race. I want like great accell and top end is not that much important but it is a lil bit :)

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

OK OK....First off lets help Dubz out.....He's a cool guy.... I'll start your list for you Dubz.....

#1. Save more money lol..... in this hobby you will need it.


Ok now my real question..... Is there a company out there that makes an anodized blue upper deck for the NTC3? and if so who? Also what is the best fitting rciever pack for the car so I can stop using AA's... Thanx

[G87z]

Ice wolf. the MTX3 is not a basher. its a racer. you race on prepared surfaces. not running around in your nearest parking lot. and you will have no probs with the belts.


if you want to sell your MTX3 lemme know I could use a spare...



Thanks

George

[kellhound99]

Originally posted by LosiXXX-NTRacer
Ok now my real question..... Is there a company out there that makes an anodized blue upper deck for the NTC3? and if so who? Also what is the best fitting rciever pack for the car so I can stop using AA's... Thanx

IRS makes one (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGF9&P=0)

I use Trinity's receiver pack. Fits just fine (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG16&P=0)

I dont use the IRS radio tray so I dont have any specifics on it. Looking to pick up HardCore's Titanium uper deck. Its one piece and in the same price range (almost) as that IRS deck.

"http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEJF0&P=7"

[waileun]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I think thats only after you change it, the reciever only checks for new failsafe settings every three minutes, but I think it saves your previous failsafe setting even if you turn it off... Ill test it.

My failsafe seems to keep in very fast. THere is no need to on the controller for more than a min. By the way, anyone found out the use of the earphone jack on the 3PK?

[waileun]

Originally posted by Walt
It hasn't happened to me either (yet), but I can certainly see how it can happen. If someone runs right into the left side of the NTC3, the collision can and will push the pipe right into the seam of the fuel tank... it's weakest point. You almost couldn't have a better design for breaking tanks.

I have not broken any yet myself. Maybe it is the way I have mounted my pipe. I make sure that there is suffcient clearance between the pipe and the tank. Also, I make sure that the pipe is secured tightly. Secondly, I make sure that the tank is not overly secured to the chassis. There must be some free play.
As for the pipe, in fact, my pipe acts as a protection for my tank. Well, if my pipe is dented from impact, I can still finish the race... but if I have a broken tank, then it is time to pack up for the day.

[mab_man20]

rookie: Congrats on your victory! Talk to hauntedmyst this saturday (your racing right?) he has most of the k-factoy stuff maybe he can help you out.

I am thinking about jumping back into nitro after a year break. The one thing that really holds me back is the mess. I love being able to brush off my TC3 with a brush and be ready for the next heat.

Is there anything anyone can say to "validate" the new expense? (other than more people race nitro were i am).


Also with a good engine and rear exhaust kit how much mess is there?

thanks

[Walt]

Originally posted by mab_man20
rookie: Congrats on your victory! Talk to hauntedmyst this saturday (your racing right?) he has most of the k-factoy stuff maybe he can help you out.

I am thinking about jumping back into nitro after a year break. The one thing that really holds me back is the mess. I love being able to brush off my TC3 with a brush and be ready for the next heat.

Is there anything anyone can say to "validate" the new expense? (other than more people race nitro were i am).


Also with a good engine and rear exhaust kit how much mess is there?

thanks

I think most of the mess comes from refueling while running, especially when racing. But the car cleans up nicely. Just take out the radio tray and you can pretty much hose it down. Then, if your name is Rookie, you detail the entire car, wash, wax, polish, etc. If your name is Walt, you just figure it's gonna get dirty again, so why bother...

[POKeY]

Hi everyone-

I've been racing my NTC3 RTR for 6 months now.

Just to let you know where my car is at...I've installed the 2-speed (and have have a good selection of supplemental gears for track tuning), have ball-bearing steering, and upgraded to 120 oz./in steering servo with a .13 sec transit time.

My question is: How much of a difference does a CF or Ti upper-chassis make in the handling characteristics of the car? I do not believe in using alum. for this application because it is inherently flexible in that position.

The reason I'm asking is because I honestly cannot see/feel any noticable "chassis flex" with the car as it is. So, I'm wondering if a few people "in the know" could shed some light on the subject.

There are probably 4-5 guys (myself included) that race here locally who consistantly WIN or place in the top three of our races. So, that "little edge" over the competition is always nice. I just don't believe in throwing money away for the sake of eye-candy (learned my lesson with my first RC which is now a $1300 N. Rustler that is still not race worthy, lol).

Anyway, thanks for any input-

jeremy

[ice-wolf]

Originally posted by G87z
Ice wolf. the MTX3 is not a basher. its a racer. you race on prepared surfaces. not running around in your nearest parking lot. and you will have no probs with the belts.


if you want to sell your MTX3 lemme know I could use a spare...



Thanks

George


G87z I wasn't bashing the car, I was trying to tune my car coz came with the engine mean to say is breaking my engine not the car,but thanks for your offer is not for sell yet :) ;)

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by kellhound99
IRS makes one (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGF9&P=0)

I use Trinity's receiver pack. Fits just fine (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG16&P=0)


Sweet merciful crap, don't buy that one. Go to http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/ and find the 1100 nimh flat receiver pack. For like $22 you get the pack, the charger and the connectors. With Trinity, your extra money gets you no charger or receiver connector. This guy ships quick and takes pay pal.

[speedydave]

Maverick, where is the main place you race onroad? I bought the NTC3 to race at Delta, and I can't get out to a lot of the other tracks(for multiple reasons), but it seems as though onroad is dying out at Delta(very few people have been showing up, last time I checked). I wish I had known before I dropped the cash on it. :(

[adlawoo]

I stripped the plastic driver that came with the Kit and have to remove tires for replacement (Nitro Shoes-Jaco). Looking at it, I need a thin profiled driver...Guys, any suggestion which 11/32th driver to get and where..Many Thanks!

[Walt]

Originally posted by adlawoo
I stripped the plastic driver that came with the Kit and have to remove tires for replacement (Nitro Shoes-Jaco). Looking at it, I need a thin profiled driver...Guys, any suggestion which 11/32th driver to get and where..Many Thanks!

My recommendation is to just get one from Sears, and if it's walls are too thick to fit, take it to the bench grinder. If it ever breaks, Sears will replace it anyway.

[HauntedMyst]

Walt is nuts. Buy one of those $20 ones from Trinity or Hudy. That way, you'll have a shiney handle and they won't replace it when it's busted, making you spend even more. :D

[adlawoo]

Thanks Haunted and Walt! Gonna get that Hudy or Trinity...if I only got a bench grinder - surely go with that Sears mod..LOL:D

[KronicRacer]

now i feel like grinding something (looking around nervously)

who says this forum isnt influential:D

[mab_man20]

Ill take a good look at the local NTC3's this weekend (aka Rookie's, walts, and haunteds) and come up with a solution. Ive got the material and the knowhow, i just need to stare at the kit for a little while.

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by speedydave
Maverick, where is the main place you race onroad? I bought the NTC3 to race at Delta, and I can't get out to a lot of the other tracks(for multiple reasons), but it seems as though onroad is dying out at Delta(very few people have been showing up, last time I checked). I wish I had known before I dropped the cash on it. :(

I live an hour from delta. I live near Santa Rosa. The local club races the first saturday every month, the ROCKs club in fairfield race the second sunday of every month, the Ukiah Club, NCRC, races the third sunday of every month. The only times I go to delta is to do the Oval Night races. But then for that I mostly race my mod oval electric car.

The only problem that I see with delta is that everytime that I go to the track to race on-road, they never wash it, they put very little soda down, and they charge $5 more per class then everyone else around in my area.

The Club in San Jose races as well. If you want to really race aginst some fast guys then go down to San Jose. There are some national champs down there. They will really show you an ass whooping, but you'll learn allot.

Whats your name? I might know you. If you ever go to the oval night races you definatly have seen me. I am just about the only 17 year old that runs a full chassis ride. My name is Dave.

[speedydave]

My name is (obviously) also Dave. I don't go to any oval races(dirt or asphalt), but I have seen one or two onroad races at Delta. I run offroad quite a bit under the race name speedydave. I would travel to make the onroad races in San Jose and other places, but I'm 15(16 in 4 months), so I can't drive myself, and even if I could, I live in Walnut Creek, which is quite a drive to San Jose, or any other big track, which would not only be a hassle to drive that far, but would also rack up a bit in gas. Delta is much, much more convenient for me because it's only 17 miles away, and if there is little or no traffic, we can usually make it in 20-25 minutes.

[ritchies rc10gt]

hi evryone.i havent posted here in a while but i have a small aggravating problem.wheni drive my car and try to turn at any speed except crawling the back end slides out.im not using the racing foam tires cuz im not racing yet.ive tried the ofna foams and hpi rubber tires.im sure its something im doing wrong

[Ford850]

Is it necessary to use an external fuel filter on a NTC3, since the gas tank has one built into it?

Thanks,
Calvin

[kreidel1]

There is no need to run a external fuel filter.

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by speedydave
My name is (obviously) also Dave. I don't go to any oval races(dirt or asphalt), but I have seen one or two onroad races at Delta. I run offroad quite a bit under the race name speedydave. I would travel to make the onroad races in San Jose and other places, but I'm 15(16 in 4 months), so I can't drive myself, and even if I could, I live in Walnut Creek, which is quite a drive to San Jose, or any other big track, which would not only be a hassle to drive that far, but would also rack up a bit in gas. Delta is much, much more convenient for me because it's only 17 miles away, and if there is little or no traffic, we can usually make it in 20-25 minutes.

Besides san jose, I would tell you to try it on the oval. There is on average 8-15 guys that race the nitro sedan oval class, myself included. Much cleaner then dirt oval, and much faster then road course. Plus going fast on oval is just about one of the hardest types of racig that there is. The nitro cars can get to about 50 by the end of the straights. Super Fast :D

[fastharry]

wel,heres a little piece of advice...


DONT install the new lunsford hinge pins or TI pillow balls...


I went to install them tonite......the hinge pins,esp the uppers,are at least 3 thousanths to small ..there is so much slop in the upper arm,I'm taking them off.


the pillow balls are ridiculous..the threads are WAY undersized(by 5 thousanths)...they're so loose,they can almost fall out...

the balls themselves are also too small....the whole knuckle has way too much slop...


absolutley ridiculous that no one checks this stuff.....

I'll give them a call tommorrow........hopefully I don't get the "we've never had that problem" before line that every RC company gives out...

[frank13]

damn i just ordered the ti turnbuckle and hinge pin set for teh ntc3 ,, you are about 4 hours too late, lol

hey fast harry .
when is that road race in jersey ,, we got rained out today , and i need a fix for racing ,, and how are teh peopel there,, freindly i hope ,

hey has anyone tried the rd logics diff cases,,,,i have two race weeks on ethem and not one broken diff case, and no loose shock towers at all , and they look cool ,,

frank13

[frank13]

and if you can tell me where it is , and if the track has a link of possibly what it looks like ,

thanks again '

[fastharry]

Originally posted by frank13
damn i just ordered the ti turnbuckle and hinge pin set for teh ntc3 ,, you are about 4 hours too late, lol

hey fast harry .
when is that road race in jersey ,, we got rained out today , and i need a fix for racing ,, and how are teh peopel there,, freindly i hope ,

hey has anyone tried the rd logics diff cases,,,,i have two race weeks on ethem and not one broken diff case, and no loose shock towers at all , and they look cool ,,

frank13


I know the turnbuckles are OK....but the hinge pins are the wrong size......

the race is next week in Edison.....

[fastharry]

http://www.edisonmodelr-ccarclub.com/

[kreidel1]

Are they the associated P balls or the Hardcore Racing ones?

[mckrooz]

I just got my Factory Team front one way a couple weeks ago. Well, I've run about 3 days of practice and yesterday it took a crap on me. The bearing is toast. I lubed it with the stealth grease it came with. I read on here somewhere that we should use a different kind of lube for it and not the one supplied. Any tips. I just went and bought a new one way main hub for $35 and I paid 38 for the complete setup. :mad: :mad: I don't want to install it yet till I find out which grease to use. For the money, these things need to be all metal and not this plastic crap.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by waileun
My failsafe seems to keep in very fast. THere is no need to on the controller for more than a min. By the way, anyone found out the use of the earphone jack on the 3PK?

First off, I don't quite understand what you are trying to say about the failsafe. Adjust it as described in the manual, it's pretty simple.

Second, the earphone jack is so that you can plug in an earphone to hear the timer beep over the noise of a bunch of nitro engines during practice. Just as stated in the manual.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by mckrooz
I just got my Factory Team front one way a couple weeks ago. Well, I've run about 3 days of practice and yesterday it took a crap on me. The bearing is toast. I lubed it with the stealth grease it came with. I read on here somewhere that we should use a different kind of lube for it and not the one supplied. Any tips. I just went and bought a new one way main hub for $35 and I paid 38 for the complete setup. :mad: :mad: I don't want to install it yet till I find out which grease to use. For the money, these things need to be all metal and not this plastic crap.

Believe it or not, the better one way for the NTC3 is made by Yokomo. It uses better bearings. You can order it from www.speedtechrc.com.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by mckrooz
I just got my Factory Team front one way a couple weeks ago. Well, I've run about 3 days of practice and yesterday it took a crap on me. The bearing is toast. I lubed it with the stealth grease it came with. I read on here somewhere that we should use a different kind of lube for it and not the one supplied. Any tips. I just went and bought a new one way main hub for $35 and I paid 38 for the complete setup. :mad: :mad: I don't want to install it yet till I find out which grease to use. For the money, these things need to be all metal and not this plastic crap.

did you get the new HD one way..or the old one?

[mckrooz]

It's the old one. I packed it with grease. I used almost the whole tube. I guess I'll have to clean and relube after every race day.

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by AreCee
Believe it or not, the better one way for the NTC3 is made by Yokomo. It uses better bearings. You can order it from www.speedtechrc.com.

I wanted to get the yokomo but it wasn't available on ebay at the time. Heh, I'm a loyal ebay shopper. lol

[KronicRacer]

i recommend the T.I.R. pillowballs that and their hinge pins. very strong stuff. and they fit there was no slop:) lunsford is only good with turnbuckles and the shock tower screw assembly.

haundted myst:
i installed the k factory clutch on my sirio. how sad that you have to grind down the lower hinge pin mount to fit the damn thing in.

[kreidel1]

Does TIR have a website or a retailer online for them? So you dont reccomend Hardcore pillowballs?

[ViperGTSR1736]

im trying to get the diffs set right, but when I follow the directions they seem too tight. How far do I tighten the diff adjustment screw before I loosen it? Also, what diff settings do u guys use with foams? Rubber? thx

[fastharry]

Originally posted by ViperGTSR1736
im trying to get the diffs set right, but when I follow the directions they seem too tight. How far do I tighten the diff adjustment screw before I loosen it? Also, what diff settings do u guys use with foams? Rubber? thx

mine seem tight too...but they loosen up...remember,that orange rulon washer in there?...that acts like a mini slipper...thats probably what we are feeling.....I've run mine at the factory settings and had no problem..




has anyone tried the Associted FT ti balls?.........................

[pep88]

Tamiya tires were recommended to me as a good asphalt tire
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJ46&P=K

Anyone have any info on how well they performed? They have an "A" set, for medium temps, and a "B" set for hot weather.

Thanks!
:D

[Distro]

Originally posted by fastharry
mine seem tight too...but they loosen up...remember,that orange rulon washer in there?...that acts like a mini slipper...thats probably what we are feeling.....I've run mine at the factory settings and had no problem..




has anyone tried the Associted FT ti balls?.........................

The pivot balls? they are as durable as the steel ones, weight alittle less but are alot more pricey.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Distro
The pivot balls? they are as durable as the steel ones, weight alittle less but are alot more pricey. ...



hey Distro...

the reason I ask is,I'm returning the Lunsfords I bought..the balls are a smaller diameter,and some of them lead to slop in that area...

thats OK with Lunsford(I've talked with them on teh phone),but to me its not...


The associated balls are a great fit.....but(not that you can trust everyone.....a slight tap on these forums usuallt means a 40 mph direct hit into the boards;) ).a few people have commented that they bend as bad as the steel ones(which I've never bent)...


have you used them?.....I know Ti Racing gets goodremarks..but they are always out of stock...so its Associated for me(or hardcore)..


and comments anyone?

[KronicRacer]

the tir is made in engand and the use metric hex wrenches and the definatly have no slop. make sure the thread is greased. on my car i have tir in the upper arms and the associated ti in the bottom.
the part # 7510
their website is www.titaniumracing.com

they even have titanium cvds good stuff and its the entire assembly. which is a plus.

[kreidel1]

Do any of you guys run the Pro or standard chassis from Hardcore? I was wondering if there is too much flex in the pro chassis? Is it much lighter than stock? And does the regular titanium chassis from Hardcore weigh more than the stock?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by kreidel1
Do any of you guys run the Pro or standard chassis from Hardcore? I was wondering if there is too much flex in the pro chassis? Is it much lighter than stock? And does the regular titanium chassis from Hardcore weigh more than the stock?

the regular hardcore ti chassis is heavier than the ascociated hardcoated and its noticable noifs ands or buts about it. the hardcore pro has some flex but its not excessive. due to the cuts it has, its lighter than the hardcore standard and stock. check out the k factory chassis out also. its light from what i heard.

[HauntedMyst]

The K Factory is lighter then stock (about 20grams) and it is very stiff, at least with their top deck and brace in place and it is very nicely machined but it's about $75. I'm think of this one from 3 Racing (http://www.rchub.com/cgi-bin/plugins/MivaEmpresas/miva?plugins/MivaMerchants/merchant.mvc+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rchub&Product_Code=NTC3001&Category_Code=hp-ntc3). It's 4mm and nicely lightened but I have no clue on wieght. I wouldn't get to caught up on the wieght of the chassis since we're usually talking about a few grams and at the average club track, you won't notice a difference.

[kreidel1]

I have been racing my car for awhile and doing good in its stock form. I relied mostly on tuning skills and driving skills. I really enjoy racing this car and started to buy some stuff for it and as long as it doesnt hurt me thats fine...but ultimatley I want more performance. I like the looks of the Hardcore Pro chassis and figured anything with that much openess must be light. But because its lighter and more open I thought the flex might be unbearable but I see a bunch of people running it. I figured with its titanium upper deck it might help. I am sure the regular titanium chassis from hardcore is much stiffer than stock but wouldnt there be a weight issue? I see they notched out below the diffs and it has a wider flywheel opening so maybe that brought it close to the stock weight chassis.

[fastharry]

how many of you guys race your cars in race events,with boards,(or not)..and have problems(if any) with the rear toe links?.....

changing toe,popping off,etc..


and I mean a consistant problem...not that some guy pushed you into a wall at 40 mph....or you hit the boards at 35 at the end of a straight 'cause you forgot to brake..

[kreidel1]

I have had that happen in one race. I was second on the start and all the yahoos shooting for the corner didnt care about making it around and I got tagged real hard and bent the cup. My car was not driveable after that with 12degrees of toe out. I hear about people talking about this problem but I havent had enough to complain.

[JeffS]

Originally posted by fastharry
how many of you guys race your cars in race events,with boards,(or not)..and have problems(if any) with the rear toe links?.....

changing toe,popping off,etc..


and I mean a consistant problem...not that some guy pushed you into a wall at 40 mph....or you hit the boards at 35 at the end of a straight 'cause you forgot to brake..

Actually, I have the most problems with rear pivot ball compression. I race on a track ringed with a concrete curb, so it's inevitable that you're going to rub it occasionally. Sometimes, even a light tap will cause the pivot balls to compress. I came up with this to fix the problem:

http://www.******.net/view_feature.php?featid=5

-Jeff

[Pro3/nmt105]

Just thought of somthing, you could apply JeffS's concept to the ball cups on the rear toe-in turnbuckles, youd probably have to use smaller set screws, but it could work.

[kreidel1]

I used to have Hardcore A-Arms for a Tmaxx I had along time ago and they used that allen set screw on it just like that and it worked pretty good.

[theShark]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I'm think of this one from 3 Racing (http://www.rchub.com/cgi-bin/plugins/MivaEmpresas/miva?plugins/MivaMerchants/merchant.mvc+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rchub&Product_Code=NTC3001&Category_Code=hp-ntc3). It's 4mm and nicely lightened but I have no clue on wieght. I wouldn't get to caught up on the wieght of the chassis since we're usually talking about a few grams and at the average club track, you won't notice a difference.

I got one today and it's the sweetest thing...I almost feel bad that its going on the bottom of my car and destined to be scratched. All the holes line up perfectly with the stock chassis and the cutouts and gunmetal color looks trick. Apart from a couple minor defects in the aluminum itself and some slight over machining on beveled edges the rest of it is flawless.

Its slightly stiffer than the stock chassis and just about noticeably heavier...but I could be wrong. I can still tweak the chassis with my bare hands but not as much as the stock.

I'm going to take it to the post office tomorrow and weight it. Anyone know the weight of the stock unit?

[ViperGTSR1736]

i have ntc3 kit and I keep chewing up pinion gears and spur gears from rocks. Its NOT my gear mesh. There have been several times when Ive been driving around and then I heard this loud whirring sound and looked and there was a little rock wedged in the pinion gears. This little thing chewed up all of my gears because the gears spun around a lot with the rock in. This has happened a million times at the parking lot I run at. I need to figure out what to do in the future. My friend has a gt4 and he has never gotten a rock. I also have an electric TC3 which gets rocks. Shaft cars seem to attract rocks! Any suggestions for what I should do? I am planning on getting new gears (for more top speed) and I dont want to wreck these. Also, anyone know the best pinions for the ntc3? The Trinity ones are the most expensive, so maybe they last longer? Also, if I add 2 teeth to the pinions, about how many mph will I gain?

Thanks

[KronicRacer]

has anyone run this chassis? ive been eyeballin it on ebay, but fer some reason im hesitating on getting it.

[JeffS]

Originally posted by ViperGTSR1736
i have ntc3 kit and I keep chewing up pinion gears and spur gears from rocks. Its NOT my gear mesh. There have been several times when Ive been driving around and then I heard this loud whirring sound and looked and there was a little rock wedged in the pinion gears. This little thing chewed up all of my gears because the gears spun around a lot with the rock in. This has happened a million times at the parking lot I run at. I need to figure out what to do in the future. My friend has a gt4 and he has never gotten a rock. I also have an electric TC3 which gets rocks. Shaft cars seem to attract rocks! Any suggestions for what I should do? I am planning on getting new gears (for more top speed) and I dont want to wreck these. Also, anyone know the best pinions for the ntc3? The Trinity ones are the most expensive, so maybe they last longer? Also, if I add 2 teeth to the pinions, about how many mph will I gain?

Thanks

1. AE pinions work great, are plenty durable, and you don't have to pay Trinity markup.

2. Dynamite makes machined delrin spur gears now, but they're $20 each. I'd stick with stock/kimborough gears.

3. Get a scrap piece of lexan, and cut it so you have about 1/4 inch overlap over the spur gear hole in the bottom of the chassis. Then use shoe goo to secure the lexan to the bottom of the chassis, and you'll have a clear guard over the spur gears to keep the little pebbles out.

4. For street bashing/top speed, I'd say go 21/27 pinion and 48/54 spur gears. Gives you great acceleration in 1st gear, then best top end in 2nd.

-Jeff

[Pro3/nmt105]

You need to have a powerful engine to run 21/27 though, i doubt the rtr engine(if you have it) or a cv-r can take it.

[AggieTC]

Hey, i'm thinking about getting a NTC3, after about a year o0f following it, with a BIG break.

Anyway
I have an RS4-2 now, and i have a new .12 CV-RX in it now, i'm pretty sure that i want to convert it to a Non-pull and drop it into a PS NTC3. So this is what i'm asking

I'm going to have a Starter box Battery (12v Gel Cell), Receiver pack (NiMH), Radio (NiMH), as wel as regular 7.2 stick packs for my other R/Cs. I was wanting to know what you guys are using and how good they are. i was looking at the Pirahna Digital Peak Charger, not bad of bang for the buck. at $49 @tower.

Also, What Tire/Foam Choice do you have for a stock ntc3, i wa slooking at the pre-mounted team orions, since i NEVER have luck at gluing tires.

Thanks
Mike

[fastharry]

hey guys..

If any of you were planning on coming to Edison this weekend to race,the race has been postponed to June 21 22....due to incoming rain....