Associated RC10GT Forum v7.0

[Railman]

Like Atm said, the 20 degree blocks will help, as will the weight. I try to keep the added weight down to less than 1 oz, but 2 oz isn't really all that much. Most guys prefer the 25 deg blocks. The Gt manual says that the 30deg blocks give more steering, but it doesn't work that way for me, & a lot of others.
You can also try to soften the front so as to allow more weight transfer to the front durring chassis roll. It's all about the front to rear weight balance, & how the balance changes when the chassis rolls. Ride height, spring rate, dampening, shock positions, camber locations (front & rear) all play on each other. To get more steering, stiffen the back with the springs, and/or with heavier dampening. That will transfer more weight to the front as the chassis rolls. For starters, just lay down the front shocks, to soften the front a bit.

If your running the stock clutch, or running the idle too high, it will also cause a lot of push, because the weight won't shift to the front like it should when entering a corner.

Pretty much any racer will tell you that one of the first things they look for when their car is pushing, is to check the diff action. If it's crunchy, it'll push like crazy. A rebuild is the only fix for that though once it gets crunchy.

These are some of the things that come to mind right now.
Joe

[Railman]

1,000!
Sorry, but I needed one more shamefull post to get back to 1,000, & this is the place of my choosing. A while back I lost over 1,000 posts though no fault of my own, & now I can go to bed!:D
Joe

[IFLYBYU]

Hi Guys,

We are starting to race our GT's on an old 1/8 sclae onroad course here. I am wonbdering what I should do to the truck to make it handle better in the corners.

Shock oil.....Should I go thick?

Springs.......Shouild I go harder?

I know to lower ride height, but do I do it with shock limiters?

THanks

Mike

[tallyrc]

thanks guys, i always thought less caster meant more steering. i currently have 3/4 oz weight in front. is it possible my truck is TOO low?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by IFLYBYU
..what I should do to the truck to make it handle better in the corners.

Define handle - if it's push, ATM has a suggestion on the last page, a little drag brake and steering/susp. tweak. Additionally I like the pro-line edge tires . . .


Shock oil.....Should I go thick?
Springs.......Shouild I go harder?

Thicker on smooth tracks, thinner on bumpy, heavier springs on tracks with lots of jumps, lighter on flatter ones, all from the stock setting and combined with your driving style. It's helpful to remember oil does not affect suspendability, it affects the speed at which the shocks react.

For cornering, this means a little bit lighter on both oil and spring would cause a little more bite . . .

know to lower ride height, but do I do it with shock limiters?
No, these days they have those plastic C-clamp thingies that go on top of the springs, ride height adjusters(?) I still prefer the oldstyle clamp types. :D
Shock limiters are helpful if you have problems with the lowest point of your rear suspension being so low the dogbones fall out, or if on landing from a large jump the recovery arc is so great it causes it to be unstable upon a hard landing - they can keep the axles more level while it's in the air.


Originally posted by highroller
Although it's rare, I don't totally agree with Rokinbill on this one....

With which part? We both agree aluminums bite except for bling, the RPMs are floppier than stockers so you prefer the stiffer stocks . . . highroller were you dipping into the Johnny Walker Black last night? :D

Besides, it's just a preference for me . . .

[Railman]

Rocknbill,
Just so you know, IFLYBYU is looking for a setup for an 1/8 ONROAD track.
The reason I differed with you on the RPM arms was that you said the RPM arms would cause something else to break because they were so strong. I took that to mean that they were stiffer than stock, but I get what your saying now;)

IFLYBYU,
In general, for on road you want stiffer springs, heavier dampening, very limited suspension travel, & a low ride height. Go for little, or maybe even zero front & rear tow in. For external shock limiters, I would guess that about 1/8 to 3/16 should keep the bottom from scraping the road, but you'll have to determine that yourself. The big limiters need to be inside the shock. You don't want a lot of chassis roll for on road. I would guess that 1/2 to 3/4 of the shock travel should be eliminated. You can use fuel tubing for the internal, & external limiters, but it will eventually swell & sofen internally. I've been using it internally in my GT for well over a year without a problem. The key to limiters here would be to match the front to the rear as far as how far the chassis can roll before hitting the limiters.I would also go to a very low degree caster block. The camber change from turning of the high degree caster blocks will only lose tire patch contact. They come in 5 degree increments from 5 to 30 degrees (stock) . I'd go with the 5 degree, to start with.

I've not set one up for on road, but what I've mentioned are are pretty much common sense starting points.
Joe

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Railman
...1/8 ONROAD.....

DOH! The English language is sucha bitch. Miss one word . . . . INSTANT idiot!!!!

LOL Sorry . . . assumed offroad as all GT's should be . . . :D

[dog8spam]

The stock arms are definitely stiffer, and I have yet to break a pair.

Do you drive you car?

[dog8spam]

your

[IFLYBYU]

Originally posted by rocknbil
DOH! The English language is sucha bitch. Miss one word . . . . INSTANT idiot!!!!

LOL Sorry . . . assumed offroad as all GT's should be . . . :D



Rockinbil, I agree Gt's shouild be driven offroad, but racing is racing. I still have an offroad GT for the offroad track, just love racing.....

[stealthpenguin]

dog:

I've gone through about 5 gal. w/ my GT (not including the time that its former owner put on it).

In fact, the only things I've broken are:

- spur gears
- CB
- CB bearings
- fuel tank leak
- my bumper has gotten chewed up (got a new one)
- and my rear camber link captured rod ends are starting to bend

I do: offroad, offroad jumping, onroad, onroad jumping, racing, you name it.

I believe that as long as you are responsible, keep good care of your car, and don't f***-up on a regular basis, your parts will last a lot longer!

= )

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by IFLYBYU
...... racing is racing........

Oh yeah. :D We have losta fun downtown, deserted parking lot, pylons, mod motors, about 12 AM at night :D

Electrics though, at that hour . . .

[Polk]

RIGHT!!!!!!

I FINALLY got my GT back together after about a week and a half of it sitting in different containers! Thanks to the help of one very, very special forum member (you know who you are!)

Right, I think this calls for some shameless posting:

First, the GT itself :D:D:D
Now sporting:
RPM front arms
RPM body mounts
RPM bumper
RPM reciver box
RPM ball cups
RPM body savers
MIP 4-n-1 clutch
MIP temp gauge
HG tranny brace
Factory team air filter (well, its an aftermarket product, so does that count? It looks better than old one anyway!)

And a few other things I have probably forgot to mention.

Pic:
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/carnew.jpg


And while I was at it I cleaned up my workspace (situated inside my room, what, you didnt know, nitro helps you sleep!:p) Probably the last time Im gonna see it this clean!!

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/rm.jpg

:D

Comments, please!

[stealthpenguin]

Very nice.

I was thinking about cutting off half of my servo saver so that it stops hitting my Rx box.

What do you guys think?

[geo8498]

I have three cars, and all of them are out of commission. My 1/8 scale buggy is having gearing problems. Even my trusty electric Evader needs new brushes or something. Now my RC10 is out of action.

I was letting a student of mine drive my RC10 the other day, and she was thrilled to see she could do wheelies with it. (Should warned her about the power difference between my truck and her Traxxas sport.)

Well, after doing so many wheelies on the pavement, the tie straps on the battery decided to give up.

So, off goes the battery. Car goes across the parking lot and flips over the curb and into the trees. I was at the other end of the parking lot when all this was happening. she didn't know how to stop the engine. So it's sitting upside down going full throttle. Of course she couldn't hear me yelling at her as she got a face full of nitro fumes and mud.

Only obvious damage so far is the tires doing a big foamy, dinged up body, and a stripped out spur gear. I haven't run the engine since, but it still has good compression. It wanted to fire up when I got it home and did a quick test pull.

[rocknbil]

Polk yer set. :D Now ease off on the BMX jumps and you'll be fine! :D

Stealth if you set the servo saver on the steering linkage right, you shouldn't need the on-servo saver (?)

[stealthpenguin]

I have MIP steering.

[JeffS]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Very nice.

I was thinking about cutting off half of my servo saver so that it stops hitting my Rx box.

What do you guys think?

Don't hack up your servo saver.

Shim up the servo mounts with some washers.

-Jeff

[stealthpenguin]

Can you post a close-up pic of what that looks like?

[stealthpenguin]

Will the Trinity Aluminum tranny brace fit my GT if I have the crescenzi brake?

[Railman]

Stealth,
If the servo saver is only hitting on the rear, you could either cut it, or mount the ball stud on the rear of the servo saver. That way, you will still have all the meat left on it, & still get the necesary clearance.
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

Sometimes I question my intelligence... lol :D

[stealthpenguin]

I was thinking about maybe getting this for my next engine:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKY0&P=7

Right now I have a MT-12, how do you think they would stack up?

[sparkyondub2z]

.

[dog8spam]

Comments, please!
If you can see desk, you are doing good.:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I was thinking about maybe getting this for my next engine:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKY0&P=7

Right now I have a MT-12, how do you think they would stack up?
Wow just realized tower changed the site... I dont think that engine would be suited for off road it probably wont have the nessecary torque and its overall power band is designed for on-road cars and thats where it works best.

[ross]

My mate just put sirio in his XXXNT, im not sure which version but he says its awesome, I've seen it go and its very fast, he also says that it has a nice smooth powerband.

[dog8spam]

Here are some pics of my car, and they better work this time.

[dog8spam]

...

[ultramarv]

Has anyone used the lightweight blue slipper clutch kit (part #1515) on their GT? Can you tell any difference between the stock slippr clutch? Please let me know.


marv

[dog8spam]

I dont think it would make that much of a difference, if its alot more I wouldnt get it.

[bad viking]

I got a RC10GT FT.
I just broke my left cvd(I lost the little "sylinder"lookin thing)
And the I saw some that have done somthing named heatshrinking. I think I understud how it worked, but Im not shure. Here is what i think heatshriking is: you take a bit of plastic or rubber and put it over the cvd, then you warm up each end of the plastic/rubber and then anything wont come inn or out.
Is this correct?

Could some1 give me a little info about heatshrinking?
What kind of rubber/plastic should i use

Bad Viking

[IFLYBYU]

Bad Viking,

Heat shrink tubing is an actual product. It is used to protect wires. YOu can buy it at most electronic stores and automotive stores.
As for putting some on your CVD's. youjust cut an apropriate length of tubing and slide it over the U-joint of the CVD. Then heat the tubing up using a heat gun or lighter. This will keep any parts in place should the set screws loosen.

Mike

[rcaddiction]

I'm losing about a bearing a weekend. It doesn't seem to matter if there is play between the pinion and spur, or if I use a washer between the bearing and the e-clip. Can anyone help? This is getting expensive.

[rcaddiction]

Oh yeah, It's an MIP 4 in 1 clutch.

[rocknbil]

Some prime causes are a worn clutch nut - will cause the inner bearing race to slip on the shaft, causing it to overheat and blow- or too high an idle. I'm sure others have some suggestions . . .

[Railman]

RC,
Where you losing or blowing them?
Joe

[atm92484_3]

RC, replace your clutchnut. Like the others have said, it can wear out and cause the bearing to overheat. I've also had nuts where the groove gets so worn that its too small for the clip to securely hold on the shaft.

[format13]

well, the time has come that my gt has lost its luster (sadly enough) and i was looking for something exciting, how does a .21 sound?:D well, i have a question, doe i just need this (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=qbsksxiayabxhhwgdegmkrkwvaaafp mv&part_id=14) or do i need the whole conversion kit: here (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=qbsksxiayabxhhwgdegmkrkwvaaafp mv&part_id=329) ? thanks for your help!

[stealthpenguin]

Screw the .21, get a RB X15. It'll blow your socks off!

[rocknbil]

Bigger is not always better, I've read a few articles on how the .15's move a 1/10 way better than a .21, and many have said a .21 will lead to more blown trannies. Besides that, if you race you'll be hard pressed to find any class that races anything more than a .12 or .15. It's up to you, but anything more than a .15 is overkill on a GT.

[format13]

well, not only will it have gobs of torque, who else would havbe bragging rights to a 2 horsepower gt? im not into racing, i just need something interesting to do with some cash i have to blow, unless there was someway to get a 2-speed... then i could lower it, put on strreet tires, and lighten everything...now theres an idea...well, lmk!

[G24racer]

I feel like getting a Losi. The GT is too old and out dated.

[Polk]

Odd how people say that but its still the world champion isnt it.....

;)

[stealthpenguin]

I was thinking about a 62T spur & 18T CB combination.
Would that give me a lot more top speed?

Right now I have 65T spur & 15T CB with a Mugen MT-12.

[stealthpenguin]

Also thinking about getting:

-Ti topshaft
-steel idler
-aluminum diff ger (all made by robinson racing)

My top shaft is a little bent right now (the spur gear wobbles a little) so, I figured that it would be a good time to upgrade

[bad viking]

Howdy.
I have been using a OS 12cv-x og my Gt 4 a year now.
I finaly feel that it is the engine that slows me down.
So, I am thinking to buy a new engine.
I want to have a 1+hp, somthing like a OS 12cv-r.
(Kinda like OS, after running the 12cv-r, it kept going 4 hours!)

So, I know that the GT requiers a SG (shorter) crankshaft.
Is there any engines that will fit directly into the GT? exept the OS 12cv-r (SG).

And thank you IFLYBYU (mike). I now got Heatshrinked CVDs!

Bad Viking

[bad viking]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bad viking
[B](Kinda like OS, after running the 12cv-r, it kept going 4 hours!)

make that OS 12cv-x

[atm92484_3]

Viking, the 12 CV-R with a SG shaft is the pilotshaft version of the engine and will not fit into the GT. You just need a 12 CV-R (s). The 12 CV-R (s) is probably the easiest engine to install in the GT since you don't have to cut anything and it is probably the most powerful out there that requires no mods or a new header. I ran one for 2 1/2 years and just recently replaced it with a Wasp when it wore out.

Penguin, that combo would defiently give you more top speed. The MT12 should be able to handle it. You might need to grind the chassis a little bit or get pullstart engine mounts and flywheel to allow the engine to slide back/up far enough to allow the clutchbell to mesh with the smaller spur.

G24, it may be old but its not outdated. I don't see GTs breaking arms, arm mounts, and hub carriers yet they still somehow keep on winning. :)

Format, the .21 conversions are just a huge waste of money. I've seen one run with a Force .21 and it was pretty cool, but for what the guy paid, I would never do it. If you want something sickly fast and extremely illegal for racing, just get a Sirio .18 for a T-Maxx.

[rcaddiction]

Thanks for the help on the clutch bearing problem guys. I'll replace those parts and see if it happens again.

[stealthpenguin]

atm:

How do you think that Wasp would compare to my MT-12?

I was thinking of getting a Wasp (turbo/slide/threaded)

[offroadcrazy01]

I hear that the wasp has great power top and low end and get's better gas miles ,but nothing has more power then the mugen top or low maybe a sirio but for 170.00 the mt12 is the king at my local track

[rcaddiction]

I've heard the rears will screw up the geometry but will the Losi pre-mounts fit the GT?

[The King]

I have a problem getting my GT started with the pull start. Once I put some gas in the carb then it will start. Do any know how I can solve this problem?

[Railman]

The King,
It sounds like it's not priming the carb very easy. Try holding a finger over the exhaust, & pulling the starter for maybe three pulls, or until you can see that fuel has made it to the carb. You might also have the bottom end needle too lean, or some kind of fuel line restiction.
Joe

[G24racer]

Originally posted by Polk
Odd how people say that but its still the world champion isnt it.....

;)

I would say NO!

When has the RC10GT ever won a World Championship?

[The King]

Originally posted by Railman
The King,
It sounds like it's not priming the carb very easy. Try holding a finger over the exhaust, & pulling the starter for maybe three pulls, or until you can see that fuel has made it to the carb. You might also have the bottom end needle too lean, or some kind of fuel line restiction.
Joe

Thanks Railman,
I put my finger over the exhaust every time I when I am starting it out cold. It may be I have the bottom end to lean. I will give that one a try.;)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by G24racer
...... [meaningless GT bashing] .....

G24, go here.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128704

[stealthpenguin]

I'm having problems with airbubbles...:

- Tiny-tiny air bubbles come out of my carb's fuel-inlet, and travel into my fuel line (b/c my line travels upward, out of the fuel inlet)
- The tiny bubbles accumulate into a large bubble
- The large bubble stalls my car
- My car is hard to start w/ the big airbubble, and cannot seem to run it through.

I've been talking to a lot of people about this, and some people have suggested that it may have somehting to do with my ridiculously large 1/8th scale airfilter.

Other people have said that it may be b/c my carb is so hot that it is boiling the fuel (which I doubt).

Any ideas? :confused: :confused: :confused:

[G24racer]

I am NOT GT bashing. Others are making claims that are NOT true.

I own a GT

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I'm having problems with airbubbles... How long are your fuel and pressure line hoses? Also you may try isolating the tank from the chassis by putting some rubber shock washers under the tank, where the holes are, the two seemed to eliminate bubbling for me . . .

[Railman]

Stealth,
The air breather has nothing to do with it, unless your running lean as a result of "Big Air". What temp are you running at? What you are describing could be the fuel boiling in the carb. Alcohol boils at a much lower temp than water. If I remember right it's somewhere around 175' F vs 212 for water. I used to run my MT12 on the hot side (260 to 270), & had the same problem. If it's a problem keeping the temps down, you might try a cooler running fuel like Platinum, or Powermaster Formula 16. Powermaster runs about 20 deg cooler than O'Donnel, as does Trinity Platimum. They do not have as much oil in them, but they perform very well, & consistent. Just my $.02
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

Hmm... well, at least I may know what the problem is.

I am running Blue Thunder 20% Race Formula right now. It's the coolest fuel that I've used, but I may have to check out some Trinity Platinum.

Would getting a composite carb possibly fix this problem, since those have a higher specific heat capacity?

[Railman]

Stealth,
If I'm not mistaken, the race formula uses more castor, & less synthetic than the std Blue Thunder. The percentages are flip flopped from one to the other. The castor is better for protecting the engine parts, but tends to run hotter. I think the std Blue Thunder runs cooler.

What the composite carbs do is isolate the carb from the engines heat. Composites just don't transfer heat very well.

You may just need to retune, or get more air to the head, to solve your problem.
Joe

[The King]

I am a newbie at tuning my motor. What way should I go to richen it up. clock wise or counter clock wise?

[Railman]

King,
If you think of the needles as just being a screw, it will be easy to remember. When you tighten (clockwise) it closes down the needle opening. So to richen, you need to open up the gap by turning it counter clockwise. Always be extra carefull when tinghtening the needles all the way down. If you bottom them out too hard, it can permanantly damage the needle and ot the nozzle.

Note to myself...always spellcheck! I almost forgot the L in clockwise!:rolleyes:
Joe

[2Fast2Fury]

Hi everyone, I was thinking about getting the RPM chrome clawz rims for my truck, because I hate the way the stock ones look. I plan on using my truck for racing? Anyone have any experience using these rims or know whether they will hold up and be good for racing? Rpm claims that they are as light as stock and stronger. As many replies on this as possible please! thanks everyone.

[The King]

Originally posted by Railman
King,
If you think of the needles as just being a screw, it will be easy to remember. When you tighten (clockwise) it closes down the needle opening. So to richen, you need to open up the gap by turning it counter clockwise. Always be extra carefull when tinghtening the needles all the way down. If you bottom them out too hard, it can permanantly damage the needle and ot the nozzle.

Note to myself...always spellcheck! I almost forgot the L in clockwise!:rolleyes:
Joe

Thanks Railman, That is a good way of looking at things;)

[stealthpenguin]

2fast2fury,

Wheels can't necessarily put you at a disadvantage, I think that most people just use dish wheels b/c they are cheaper, because they are easy to clean, and because I think that you might have to use dish wheels for ROAR and other racing leagues.

[The King]

That was the problem I was to lean. Thanks for the tips;)

[b3guyRC10]

Well here is my truck. This is my 2nd RC10GT and I absolutely love it. I am just a bit curious on how to get more steering with this truck. At the track today it was muddyish at first then reallly hard packed. I ran Proline blades up front and holeshots in the rear at first, and later switched to Edges up front and bowties in the rear. I still wish I had more steering so I could carve more in turns. I have 30wt all around with blue springs up front and green in the rear.

Regards,
Will

Edit- eh I can't figure out how to post a picture from something in My Pictures, because I can't find the file name. But I still need help on the handling.

[Railman]

It's hard to say without knowing what all your truck has, but I'll give it a try.
Basically, when your looking for traction, it's mostly (aside from tires) about weight balance, & how it changes as you go through a turn, & accelerate. All of the following will affect that.
1)Mip 4in1 clutch on #2 setting (trailing with weights).
This will give good acceleration, & if the idle is right, will also disengage fully so as not to cause the front to push.
2) set up with a little drag brake so as to shift a little more weight to the front as you enter the turn.
3)Silver front springs. This is the most used front spring on the GT.
It is one step lighter than the blue. It will allow the fornt to roll more (more weight to front) than the blue.
4)#2 front shock pistons w 30 to 35 wt oil. (std GT setup)
5)Front shocks outside on arm, inside on tower. This will allow the front to roll more, & give more weight transfer to the front when entering the turn.
6)front shocks: use .032 to .0125 inside limiters. This will stop the transfer of too much weight to the rear when accelerating while turning, & maintain a little more weight on the front.
7)add 3/4 oz to the front end. Most common is at the bulkhead, I prefer it right in front of the servo, favored to the rt side.
8)run little to no toe in for more steering. If you run toe out it can even give too much steering to the point that it may be too twitchy. Toe in will soften turn in. It all has to do with how the angle of the wheels change with the change in ackerman as the wheels turn in.
9)use 25 deg caster blocks. They just steer more agressively than the 30 degree blocks. The more straight up & down the king pin is, the quicker the steering action is. The downside is it is less stable. 25 deg is still stable in the rough though. 30 degrees will give more camber change to make the edges bite in more, but I think that 25 deg still does that, while allowing the tire to keep a good contact patch.
10)rear shocks: #2 pistons 30 wt ,green, use 1/8" inside limiters, use the outside/outside mounting. This will support the rear of the truck under acceleration, so as not to transfer as much off the front. The limiters also stop the rear from rolling/compressing too far, & allow it to carry more speed through the turn.
11)be shure your diff is free, & not crunchy. What has to be able to happen to turn is the outside wheel needs to be able to rotate faster than the inside wheel. If the diff is stiff, it will fight the steering of the front. This is probably the most common problem with well used GT's that are not maintained.
12) I use about 1 1/2 deg neg castor in the front, & about 1 deg neg in the rear.
13)rear camber link: The most popular is inside on hub carrier,& inside bottom on the bulkhead. This allows more roll to the rear, but seems to work well for the fornt also. In hi traction conditions, I might move the bulkhead to the inside top.

That's about all I can think of right now. This works pretty well for me.
Joe

[b3guyRC10]

Railman,

THANKS a lot! To make it clear I just wanted to make sure you knew what was in my GT. It is a team GT with a picco .15 picco exaust and a paris pipe. I have a Jr Nes 4735 servo with 90 oz's of torque and .15 transit. I have AE blue springs up front and greens in the rear. I think I have 30wt all around. My diff is a little notchy, so I will rebuild it. Could you clarify the size spacers in the front, are they like 1/16 of an inch. Also I can understand 1/8 spacers would seem to make a noticeable difference.

Regards,
Will

[Railman]

b3guy,
I'm sorry about the front limiter numbers. It should have read 1/32 (.032) to 1/8" (.125). Try 2 1/32" shims (or 1 1/16") to start with. I use closer to 1/8", but my front end setup is way different than stock. Anyway, like I said, limiting the front's travel will help to keep more weight on the front end. If your track doesn't have any real severe jumps, or rough sections, I'd lean toward the 1/8 " limiters.
Let me know how it goes.
BTW, I also run mostly JR servos. Me & my boys have about ten 4735's, & 4750's. We have had near zero failures over the years. I also think they are way underrated on speed. I have an Airtronics 257 in my XXX, & my middle son has also has one. Even though the rated speed is way faster (.07 sec) we both like the 4735 as well or better.

Joe

[Pro3/nmt105]

12) I use about 1 1/2 deg neg castor in the front, & about 1 deg neg in the rear.
Do you mean camber by this? Rear caster isnt adjustable and the lowest degree of caster blocks is 5 deg(to my knowledge).

[Railman]

Pro3,
Yeh, Your right. It was a typo. I'd like to see someone run 1 1/2 deg castor in the rear, or the some in the front! Anything else to pick on?:rolleyes: Typos are fairly common on here. Just try to do a long post without any mistakes.
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

ARGH!

I'm so frustrated w/ my engine. I don't understand why I've had so many problems!

So many n00bs can just slap an engine in, and never have very many problems with it. But of course all the really #(&#@$'d up stuff happens to me!

I retuned my engine (MT-12), putting it to factory, and then leaning it out.

1. It won't keep a consistant idle, always varying.
2. Air-bubbles come from my tank, and from my carb, but during totally random times.
3. I had trouble tuning the top-end, when I blipped it, it would either sound like it was choked, or just immediatly stall.

I may just buy a new carb... *sigh*

[ross]

Stealth,

Sounds like you have an airleak, try replacing all your fuel lines, drop a new tank in, seal the gaps around the carb with silicone.

[stealthpenguin]

but, i just recently replaced my tank... = (

Well, which areas in particular should I seal?

[ross]

Seal all around where the carb slots into the crankcase, around where the high speed needle goes intot the carb body and around the small spaces above and below the fuel nipple. You can also seal all around the backplate.

[rocknbil]

I still say vibration, isolate tank and try longer in/out fuel lines.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Can you set camber on rims with no tires? Would it be easier than rims with tires? I having alot of trouble setting my camber, if I drop it on the floor after I set the camber then check it again the settings change or even if I come back later and test it again the settings seem to change, its driving me crazy. Could it have somthing to do with the tires sticking about past the rims? Id appreciate any tips.

Thanks
btw Im using the camber gauge that came with my ntc3 and yes its big enough to use with truck tires.

[stealthpenguin]

Bill,

I have 1/8" of fuel line under the fuel tank at all 3 screws.

I think I'll try sealing the carb and having longer fuel/pressure line.

[Railman]

Pro3,
Camber changes as the steering is turned, & as the suspension is compressed, so there is no perfect way to check it. I always eyeball the front wheels straight ahead, after doing a short drop.
Some people like to rotate the tires to different positions, but I rarely do, because it usually doesn't change very much. Due to the fact is changes so much as your turn, & hit bumps in an off road car, I don't see it as being that critical to be perfect. The biggest factor is the steering angle when being checked, due to the castor factor. Castor causes the camber to change as the wheel is turned. Just my $.02
Joe

[Railman]

Stealth,
Try resetting to factory settings, & leaning the bottom end only first. That is usually the reason for a bog. If you run the bottom too rich, & compensate for the low idle with the idle speed needle it can cause it to idle like you described. Tune the top end for wide open speed, & temp.
I have had similar problems with mine also, but after 3 gallons, it finally acts like it's broken in. Compression is still excellent, but it now runs cool, fast & with a good clean idle.
Bubbles coming up from the carb, can be cause by an air leak at the fitting, but more likely is that the fuel is boiling. Alchohol boils at somewhere around 175 deg. If the car is setting still long enough, it won't cool the carb to keep it from boiling. What temp is your engine running at? It seems like some of those problem go away when you can get it below 240 deg, or at least it did for me. I also ended up leaning the bottom to the point where I could close down the idle position needle. That made a huge difference in the overall drivabiltiy of the car, because it fixed the erratic idle symptoms.
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

Hm, well, I've never actually touched my idle-speed needle since when I first got it.

But, I'll try that procedure. As for the bubbles, does that mean that I should not just let it idle at a stand still?

[bubbastump]

i use a flat table and a protractor to set camber
if u got bubbles in fuel line u prob got an air leak
pres tube should be looped

[The King]

I am going to be racing my GT for the first time. I will be racing on road. What do I need for my pit?

Thanks
D.King

[atm92484_3]

Spare parts, tools, tires, cleaner, spare plugs, a table/chair/canopy, shock oils, different springs, and fuel. I've found that it never hurts taking too many things to the track.

[The King]

I have a OS .15 engine and I want to know what you all would reccomend me using for a glow plug in 80* - 90* temp. Also what should my temp be running at before it is to hot? Right now I believe I am running a #8 Mccoy

[bad viking]

Hi

So here is the big question: witch engine should I buy
I know that I want racing performance and that it should be a 1hp(+) engine (.12 size).
The OS 12TR (S) look like it will fit rigt away, thats amajore + 4 me.
But it has a round exhaustoutlet, thats where my troubles come in. can any of you show me a manifold that will fit, so that it would work on the FT pipe??

Bad Viking

[ross]

Originally posted by bad viking
Hi

So here is the big question: witch engine should I buy
I know that I want racing performance and that it should be a 1hp(+) engine (.12 size).
The OS 12TR (S) look like it will fit rigt away, thats amajore + 4 me.
But it has a round exhaustoutlet, thats where my troubles come in. can any of you show me a manifold that will fit, so that it would work on the FT pipe??

Bad Viking

Losi and Mugen both do rear exhaust manifolds that are designed to be used on 1/10th trucks. Either of them will do the job.

[bad viking]

Thanks ross, I took a look at Tower Hobbies, nad could any of these work?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUH5&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBGN7&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAJD5&P=7

On this engine
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM4&P=7

[NTC3Qualifier]

Okay - after getting everything up and going, I noticed something is slipping somewhere. When I give it full gas, the engine winds up and the truck moves quite slowly. First thing i thought to check was the slipper clutch, but it is as tight as i can make it. Before i do a tear down into the main clutch, could this be a diff problem? if they were too loose, could that cause the problem i am having?

Thanks in advance for your help

[beachbum]

has any of you guys done any on-road racing?? if so, have any of you had any experience with any of the lowering kits and the modified bodies. i am thinking about doing that to my gt,but i just wanted some input if anyone wants to respond. thanks

[ross]

bad viking,

The main problem with the ones you listed is that they are meant you be used on touring cars and onroad cars which means that sometimes they can rub agaisnt the chassis and body. Thats why Losi and Mugen designed theres to work on a truck.

NTC3Qualifier,
Yep thats almost certainly your problem unless your main clutch is ******* however because of the diff been loose and you driving your truck you may have damaged the diff gear. Because the diff gear is just spinning the friction between the balls and the rings causes the balls to heat up and melt the diff gear holes over. The only way you can check for this is to open the diff up and see if the holes are closed over ifnot then just regrease the diff and tighten it back up so when you put to flat heat screw drivers in the outdrive you cant spin the diff gear. If they are melted over, get something like a centre punch and a hammer and push the balls out of the gear and then put them in a new diff gear. Hope that helps.

[NTC3Qualifier]

Ross - Thanks for the insight - i am assuming that the diff isnt damaged, as i just drove it around like this for about 15-20 seconds. when i realized there was a problem, i brought it in for inspection.

I am assuming that if by tightening the diff, the problem doesnt go away, then that would prove that it is actually the clutch that is slipping, correct? again thanks, and i will check it all out when i get home.

[ross]

Originally posted by NTC3Qualifier
Ross - Thanks for the insight - i am assuming that the diff isnt damaged, as i just drove it around like this for about 15-20 seconds. when i realized there was a problem, i brought it in for inspection.

I am assuming that if by tightening the diff, the problem doesnt go away, then that would prove that it is actually the clutch that is slipping, correct? again thanks, and i will check it all out when i get home.

And while youve got your diff out check the gear box especially the idler gear to see if that is damaged because stripped gears could also cause the problem.

If when you tighten the diff you still have slipping check the clutch and maybe replace it if it looks worn.

[rocknbil]

First, ROSS WHERE YA BEEN HIDING? : D

NTC3Qualifier, welcom to the board. You said "getting everything up and running" - is this a new truck or is it used? Did you build it from a kit or is it an RTR? If it's used, my first guess is as ross says. If it's new and you indeed tried to run it for only 15 secs or so in this condition, maybe you just need to tighten your diff.

Polk had the same problem and I outlined some diagnosing steps in the thread below, this will get it figured out for you:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=129890#post1048768

[ross]

Originally posted by rocknbil
First, ROSS WHERE YA BEEN HIDING? : D

NTC3Qualifier, welcom to the board. You said "getting everything up and running" - is this a new truck or is it used? Did you build it from a kit or is it an RTR? If it's used, my first guess is as ross says. If it's new and you indeed tried to run it for only 15 secs or so in this condition, maybe you just need to tighten your diff.

Polk had the same problem and I outlined some diagnosing steps in the thread below, this will get it figured out for you:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=129890#post1048768

I was in the cuboard! It took you long enough to find me........

With all the changes to the threads and the unsubcribing of the threads I lost track of the thread, but now Ive got it sorted so Im back. :)

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by bad viking
Thanks ross, I took a look at Tower Hobbies, nad could any of these work?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBGN7&P=7

On this engine
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM4&P=7

I use that Trinity header on a Mugen MT.12 and it tucks in nicely. It was a tad low for my taste but it's easily bent to fit your needs.... I mean, I bent mine the little bit without any problems or fancy tools. If I can do it without screwing it up then about anyone can. (I have to worst luck.)
BTW..... The TR is a fine engine.

[stealthpenguin]

I use the Losi header, works great, and uses double springs (opposed to just one).

[NTC3Qualifier]

thanks for all the help guys - to those who asked - yes it is new, and a factory team kit, with an OS .15 cv-r.

I am an idiot. i go home, and check the diff like u say - seems tight to me, so i try driving it again. still no power. so i put it back on the starter box and look at it for a minute. Ah-HA! the carb is only opening 20% - the servo horn was stripped. replaced the horn - and tada! now i have one blazing fast truck. thanks guys!

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by NTC3Qualifier
thanks for all the help guys - to those who asked - yes it is new, and a factory team kit, with an OS .15 cv-r...

Good for you, but two things with a new GT:

As it breaks in, take a few minutes every other run or so and check the diff bolt like I mentioned in the previous thread. The specs say to torque the diff bolt down tight, then back off 1/8 turn. As you break it in, it will likely begin to loosen a tad - not the bolt, but the overall assembly as it breaks in. If this happens and you don't catch it, the balls will start to slip on the diff rings rather than roll, causing friction and heat and you'll get the melted diff gear ross mentioned.

Also a common mistake, as you look at the truck from the rear, the head of the diff bolt is on the right, correct? If the diff assy. is in the case w. the head on the left, it will loosen up from the torque.

Have fun!

[NitroBoy24]

The top speed of a rc10gt w/the .15 is between 30-40mph right? Im lookin at the gt, 2.5 rustler (ive heard they overheat easily), and the duratrax nitro evader st. AKA the Team FActory RC10GT DTX Matt francis edition:D I was just wondering ur opinions on these trucks and im sure the RC10GT will get a lots of praises since this is a team associated forum. But what the he!! its worth a try.

[bubbastump]

lol
i thought the same thing when i first saw a pic of the chasis

[baneonrt]

This may not be a very good example since i haven't owned a Nitro Evader but I did buy the electric version and one thing that really gripes me about it is the diff. It's a pita to get smooth (mine isn't). The associated diff in my GT is so nice compared to the duratrax. Now they may have changed the design or materials for the nitro version but I doubt it.

Also, overall the quality of components of my FT GT and my friends GT Plus is far beyond my Evader. The shocks work smoother, it's easier to work on, etc.

Steve

[bad viking]

Hi

I thought, hmm, let check the dimentions on the exhoustexit on the engine, and what do I get:

The 12TR: Same mounting and exhaust dimensions as the .12 CV and .12CZ-R.

The 12CV:Same mounting and exhaust dimensions as the .12CZ-R

And the 12cz-r dont existsist any more, GREAT!!!

Do any know if the Trinity Rear Exhaust Truck Manifold will fit the 12TR??

Bad Viking

[geo8498]

Originally posted by NitroBoy24
The top speed of a rc10gt w/the .15 is between 30-40mph right? Im lookin at the gt, 2.5 rustler (ive heard they overheat easily), and the duratrax nitro evader st. AKA the Team FActory RC10GT DTX Matt francis edition:D I was just wondering ur opinions on these trucks and im sure the RC10GT will get a lots of praises since this is a team associated forum. But what the he!! its worth a try.

I have an electric Evader, and my first thought when I saw the introduction of the Nitro was, "I don't think the plastic parts will hold up." If the plastic parts are the same as the EP version, they break much too easily. I've replaced more parts on my electric Evader than on my RC10GT. Those steeering c-mounts, and the body posts are especially vulnerable.

[Ford850]

I decided to buy either a O.S. 12 or .15CV-RX motor for my GT. Should get it with a slide or rotary carb?

Thanks

[The King]

How do you know when the pison and sleeve are shot? I have a OS.15cvr and I ran about a half gallon of gas so far.

[rocknbil]

When it loses compression. If you can turn the flywheel over with one finger while the glow plug is in, it's time for a squeeze or a new P & S.

[Polk]

RIGHT!
I need CVDS!!!

I have dogbones popping out every 5 mins, very, very annoying, but im not sure of which ones!
I know i want MIP, and not the shiny ones...But im not sure if i need 1/4 or 3/16?

I have a RC10GT RTR Plus. A P/N would be great!

Thanks!

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by The King
How do you know when the pison and sleeve are shot? I have a OS.15cvr and I ran about a half gallon of gas so far.

OS engines are easy to tell if they're worn. If you find yourself chasing the carb settings around constanly then it's time for a rebuild. If it just doesn't want to idle and it seems to flame out a lot once the engine gets hot, then it's time for a rebuild.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
....I have dogbones popping out every 5 mins, very, very annoying, but im not sure of which ones!....

The newer RTR's have 3/16's. I almost sent you a set too, all mine are 1/4"!

Why not the shiny ones? I love e'm, they're the same as the black ones . . . with BLING! :D

BTW WELCOME BACK how was the holiday?

PS IN THE MEANTIME:

I sent you some springs, they look like springs from ball point pens. If you look in the inside of your rear axles you'll see there's a hole - run those springs down inside there first before you put the doggies in, that will help. The other thing: if you're popping out a lot it means your suspension is "dropping" a bit too much. You can aleviate this by opening up your shocks, extracting the shafts, and sliding a 1/8" shock limiter under the piston to reduce the down-travel. The limiters came with your kit (I remember your post asking what they were!) Check your manual for how to do this.

[stealthpenguin]

I'm selling my baby! = (

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=132114

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil
The newer RTR's have 3/16's. I almost sent you a set too, all mine are 1/4"!

Why not the shiny ones? I love e'm, they're the same as the black ones . . . with BLING! :D

BTW WELCOME BACK how was the holiday?

PS IN THE MEANTIME:

I sent you some springs, they look like springs from ball point pens. If you look in the inside of your rear axles you'll see there's a hole - run those springs down inside there first before you put the doggies in, that will help. The other thing: if you're popping out a lot it means your suspension is "dropping" a bit too much. You can aleviate this by opening up your shocks, extracting the shafts, and sliding a 1/8" shock limiter under the piston to reduce the down-travel. The limiters came with your kit (I remember your post asking what they were!) Check your manual for how to do this.

Those springs are an absoulute B**** to get in!!!!!

Nah i dont want bling, i want MANLINES!!!! *grunt*

:p

I also got a new computer thats why i have been away for a while....

Heres some new pics of me new body...

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Dcp_0432.jpg

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Dcp_0433.jpg

Pretty dang sexy if i may say so myslef!

[Polk]

Hmm

Cant seem to find any MIP CVDS for 3/16 axles on tower??

Could someone help me out here?

Stupid Tower search engine...:confused:

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by Polk
Hmm

Cant seem to find any MIP CVDS for 3/16 axles on tower??

Could someone help me out here?

Stupid Tower search engine...:confused:

Here are the shiny version (found by searching for "MIP GT"):

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX36&P=7

Here are the plain black ones (found by searching for "GT CVD"):

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3277&P=7

Steve

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
Nah i dont want bling, i want MANLINES!!!!...

Manlines? Then you talk about your sexy body??!!!! hahaha

Nice paint job, stay off your lid and see if you can make it last a few laps now! :-P

The chrome plating on the shiny's are just easier to clean.

As for the springs (hee heee) more of a bi**ch than popping your doggies back in? :D

Take a thin screwdriver or nail, slide the spring on it, shove it into the axle hole, push the spring on down.



:D

[1tuffRC10]

Well I just got back into this site. Puter lost my screen name and password and I didn't remember it. LOL It's tuff being old!:D

King, break down and get you a new TR. You'll love it.

[NTC3Qualifier]

here are some pics - for all those who helped me with this bad boy - thanks! btw - i put the cv-r in my NTC3 and put a new mill in the GT, can anyone guess what it is?????
http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/data/500/595buggy_inside-med.JPG

http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/data/500/595buggy-med.JPG

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Well I just got back into this site. Puter lost my screen name and password and I didn't remember it. LOL It's tuff being old!:D

King, break down and get you a new TR. You'll love it.

IS the TR a .15 or is it a .12? Do you have a link where I can check this thing out? Maybe I will pick one up asa spare.

[The King]

I thought my P&S was shot because my pull start was coming out really easy. Comes to find out I forgot to put to screws back into the head. I replaced those two screws and it started up.

[rc_king1]

The engine looks like an OPS or it could be a Thundertiger. Is this correct?

[NTC3Qualifier]

cha-ching! it is an OPS .15

Wow - that was fast - im impressed. most people have never even heard of that mill down here in FL

[1tuffRC10]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM4&P=0

Try that link. It went down again, less than $95

[ross]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM4&P=0

Try that link. It went down again, less than $95

Thats a seriously good price, especailly since they were quite expensive (around $170) less than a month ago. Thats less than I payed for my CVR that was on special at Tower at christmas. It looks has if you can get some excellent deals on OS engines at Tower now.

However, I would still prefer one with a slide carb.

[1tuffRC10]

That's the short shaft, rotary carb version. Word is that it will be discontinued. The TR-T has came down as well but is only available in the pilot shaft version.

[The King]

I was going to race my GT on this oval track today. I ran about 8 laps when it happened. I was coming around the oval when I slammed in the wall. Broke my shock mount. Not that major but it prevented me from racing because I didn't have any extra parts.

With that I ask this question. What are some of the basic parts that I should have on hand in case I crash, or should I say when I crash:D

[The King]

I will be racing my GT on an oval track. I was told it would be a great ideal to lower my GT. How do I go about this?

[Pro3/nmt105]

you can lower it by removing shock spacers, you might want to use travel limiters inside your shocks to prevent your car from leaning into the turns too much when running oval.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Anybody have any suggestions on how I can give my gt more steering. I was running it on the track for the first time this season and it didnt seem to have enough steering. I moved the front shocks to the inner position on the tower and the outer position of the arm and got rid of some toe-in its very close to 0 deg now it might even have a little toe out but Im pretty sure it dosnt. I guess I could switch to a longer wheel base but I dont know if I want to sacrifice the rear traction, is there anything else I can do for more steering?

[bad viking]

You can use what they call a drag brake.
I got the tips from ROCKINBILL and I my GT is mutch better in the corners now.
Now to this drag brake thing:
You simpley ajust the brakes so that it is braking a bit under idleling. when the turns come the car will automaticly brake when your engine is idleling and the nose of your car will fall down because of the weight of the car wanting to continue.
you will get a lot more traction on the front whells.
And a tip from me:
use a little bit of toe-out 1-2 degrees.
witch servo do you use? ROCINBILL told me you should have a servo that can take 80oz at least. A new servo might help.
And ofcourse, you have tighted the servosaver, right?
That was my 1st mistake with my GT, guess if I laught afterwards!!!! LOL.

Well, hope this will help you a bit, but how is your driving style?
since its 2wd, the front whells will loose traction when you pull the trigger. Its in all the bwds nature to understeer under hard acceleration.
Just keep trying adjustments untill you r happy!!

Bad Viking

[beachbum]

has anyone out there tried to lower their gt with the factory works kit. i am thinking of trying it and i wanted some input if anyone knows. thanks

[ross]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Anybody have any suggestions on how I can give my gt more steering. I was running it on the track for the first time this season and it didnt seem to have enough steering. I moved the front shocks to the inner position on the tower and the outer position of the arm and got rid of some toe-in its very close to 0 deg now it might even have a little toe out but Im pretty sure it dosnt. I guess I could switch to a longer wheel base but I dont know if I want to sacrifice the rear traction, is there anything else I can do for more steering?


Its easy to get carried away with different shock settings and camber/toe in settings but dont forget to look at tyres. See what other people on the track are running and try them.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by bad viking
....I got the tips from ROCKINBILL ....


Original copyright Railman, 2003.












:D

[dog8spam]

With that I ask this question. What are some of the basic parts that I should have on hand in case I crash, or should I say when I crash

I would keep alot of screws, some nuts, bodyclips, CVD hardware, A-arms (especially front), about three spur gears, and air filter stuff. Never throw away old parts, even if you think you will never use it again. I would look for a cheap parts car or someone selling alot of spare parts.

[tipper]

what up, I am am back with my gt I just got back from australia was there for 4 months. got me a new engine to pretty nice one to. what up with all of you.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by ross
Its easy to get carried away with different shock settings and camber/toe in settings but dont forget to look at tyres. See what other people on the track are running and try them.
Im running the same tires as everybody else edges up front (brand new) and holeshots in the rear that are in pretty good condition.

I guess Ill try a little toe-out my servos a 645mg so it has enough torque (could use a little more speed but thats not whats causing the understeer). Ill give the dragbrake a try too. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

The servo saver was also my first mistake with the gt, when I got my gt last year I thought that to tighten the servo saver you had to tighten the black nut that holds it on rather than the aluminum wheel. So I had to tighten the nut to the point that the steering would barley move to keep the wheels from moving around so much.

[tipper]

I run masher2000 with velocity from proline, my truck has some custom stuff on there I made titanium body brace post, tebo rings, front axles. each side gets 1/2 inch long increse front width by 1 inch. all rpm, new mx-3, new picco xp.15, new body alot of custom stuff like molds and others.

[The King]

I am running on an oval on road track and my spur gear is 66t and my bell gear is a 14t. I am looking more to low end.

[ross]

Originally posted by The King
I am running on an oval on road track and my spur gear is 66t and my bell gear is a 14t. I am looking more to low end.

Depends what engine your running.

With a half decent engine I would have thought that your current gear ratio would give you more than enough low end, maybe even wheelies. So Im not sure why you feel the need for more low end especially since your running on a onroad oval track.

What engine are you running?

[The King]

Originally posted by ross
Depends what engine your running.

With a half decent engine I would have thought that your current gear ratio would give you more than enough low end, maybe even wheelies. So Im not sure why you feel the need for more low end especially since your running on a onroad oval track.

What engine are you running?

I am running a OS .15cv-rx (s) My gears were set up for a dirt track with lots of turns and not many straights. I am just checking if I should stay with this gear set up or switch:D

[1tuffRC10]

What clutch are you running King? A slower clutch may help that weaker engine to rev up a little quicker.

[The King]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
What clutch are you running King? A slower clutch may help that weaker engine to rev up a little quicker.

MIP 4 in 1, What are you talking about weak engine? I thought this was a good engine? Am I wrong?

[ross]

Im not sure what 1tuff means about a weak engine, a 1.2 HP .15 doesnt sound very weak to me. Should have bags of bottom end power.

You cant say weather you need different gearing without see'ing your truck. If your finding that your truck is reaching top speed when your well short of the end of the straight then gear up a bit more. That way your truck will acclerate all the way down the straight ifnot most of it.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Id gear up a little since your running oval and youll never slow down that much that youd need alot of lowend. Id say pick up a 15 and 16 tooth clutchbell and try them out. Like ross said If it seems like your topping out before the end of the straight gear up a little if you never get a chance to top out or come close to it gear down a little. Also see which gearing gives you the best lap times.

[Jamedup]

Although I haven't had a chance to run the .15 CV-R but I think it should run it's best on the bottom to midrange.
All my .15s did, anyway.

[1tuffRC10]

King, I didn't look at your post hard enough. I saw CV not CVR. My bad. LOL It's about like they said, if you are reaching top speed before you run out of straight, you need more gear. But if you are running the #2 setting, and find the engine bogging a little, try the #1 setting. What it does is allow the engine to rev a little more before engaging the clutch. Or if you are spinning out when you stomp on the gas, you may want to try the #1 setting. Also the #3 and 4 settings will give you a little engine brake and better fuel milage. Anyhow, you want your engine up in the rpm range, to the point where it's power is up before the clutch engages.

[1tuffRC10]

BTW The TR engine and slide carb would be better for on road. That's what they are recommended for.:D

[ross]

No ones posted in over 36 hours! Come on guys.

[Polk]

Dammit

The GT has is giving me SO MUCH BLOODY GREIF!!!!!!!!!!!

I have had more ARO than nitro in the engine in the last 4-5 weeks. So annoying.

Screws are breaking, stripping, bending, and generally doing everything else imaginable. I just stripped 5 this morning after another scrw snapped cause the spur to get stripped by the suspension mount moving across. And yes, i am using hex dirvers!!

I need some new manifold scrws. The ones that go through the manifoldand into the engine crankcase. Anyone know where i can get these? Anyone willing to donate??

The weather here is bloody cold right now, which sucks hard.

*sigh*

:( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(

[baneonrt]

Well, since there hasn't been a whole lot of traffic I figure I'll post pictures of the latest version of my GT.

It started off as a circa '98 - '99 tub chassis Team kit. I've upgraded it beyond Factory Team specs. More information can be found on the simple site I made for my GT. http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/

http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/pictures/ver3overhead.jpg

Just got finished rewiring it. I relocated the power switch to the side of the RPM reciever box because I kept having problems with it switching off after a hard jolt when mounted to the rear shock tower. Also tried my first attempt at a home built reciever pack. Working on my second attempt now.

Now I just need to finish painting my second body and it'll be ready to run. :)

Steve

[RooK]

I just pulled my RTR+ out of storage from all the rain and crappy weather two weeks ago and I'm planning on installing some upgrades.

I'd like to add some nice threaded body shocks. Anyone one know of some that are made for the GT or some that are atleast compatible?

Also, I'm wanting a Dodge racing body. Does anyone make one for the GT and if not, will the HPI MT bodies fit the GT with a little work?

[rocknbil]

Polk where ya been? You know I'd send som if I had them but it's very important to get the right ones for the engine, and I doubt I'd have them, try fitting some from the harware store or you'll have to get them right from AE.

RooK: this is reason 952 why I HATE FRAMES on websites, you can't link to it the way you are supposed to. Here's a Proline Dodge Ram body:

http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/bodies/3079/3079.html

To get there from any normal means I guess you'd have to lin through their FRAMES (agggg)

http://www.prolineracing.com/flash/plhome.html

[Polk]

i got some from my LHS (shock horror!!) but they are wayyyyy to long on one side and it hits the manifold. So i think i will have to cut it short.....well see how that goes, then i have to find the source of a mysterious air leak somewhere that is pissing fuel all over the GT!

I think it may be the manifold cause that was a bit loose, and when i put my finger over the exhaust to stop the engine (to make some simple adjustment, yes i know it floods it but not for me!) it keeps going even though exhaust is blocked!!

:eek:

[Godspeed]

We have the B4 and the T4 is on its way...anyone knows anything about Associated coming out with a new RC10GT? ;)

[ross]

Originally posted by Godspeed
We have the B4 and the T4 is on its way...anyone knows anything about Associated coming out with a new RC10GT? ;)

Yeah, should be released towards the end of this year.

[JeepsDaddy]

i search a couple hundred replies... but didn't see an answer to this... shoot me a reply or a link for my question here...

what is the best set-up/fix for the throttle/brake linkage on a RTR GT?? specifically- when you hit the brakes, the linkage sticks and want to push the carb arm way past closed....

thanks fella's...

peace out... :)

[tipper]

Originally posted by Polk
Dammit

The GT has is giving me SO MUCH BLOODY GREIF!!!!!!!!!!!

I have had more ARO than nitro in the engine in the last 4-5 weeks. So annoying.

Screws are breaking, stripping, bending, and generally doing everything else imaginable. I just stripped 5 this morning after another scrw snapped cause the spur to get stripped by the suspension mount moving across. And yes, i am using hex dirvers!!

I need some new manifold scrws. The ones that go through the manifoldand into the engine crankcase. Anyone know where i can get these? Anyone willing to donate??

The weather here is bloody cold right now, which sucks hard.

*sigh*

:( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(

buy a titanium crew kit I was having the same problem till I got that

[tipper]

there is going to be a new rc10gt all I can say it is a little diffrent from the rtr plus comes with some factory team and a little bit of new design and stronger parts, nothing you couldn't pay to upgrade though.

[Railman]

JeepsDaddy,
It's normal to push the throttle a little past closed. Tht's how you get drag brake on a gasser. 1/16" throttle spring compression is pretty std. If it's more than that, you need to reduce the brake travel.
I am not familiar with the radio th RTR comes with. If it has
end point adjustments (epa), it's the easiest fix. You need to reduce the brake value to limit the brake travel. If it doesn't have epa, you need to either reset the center trim to accomodate the brake/throttle travel, or do it the right way, & start from scratch. If the two servo horn adj screws won't do it, you'll need to start from scratch. Basically, you need to reset the radio center trim to zero, or neutral value, & adjust the servo linkage so as to have the proper throttle travel.
1)Remove the servo horn
2)turn on radio, & set center trim to zero
3)turn on truck
4)locate servo horn on servo while radio, & truck is on, so that carb is in idle position. You may need to back off the brake nut to accomodate the throttle position.
5)adjust the two servo horn screws as needed to fine tune ,You always adjust the brake travel to the throttle travel, & not visa versa. If the brake travel is still too much, you will need to shift the center/idle position to limit brake travel.

It's not hard to adjust, but it is very hard to expain without seeing what you have. Hope this makes sense.
Joe

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by JeepsDaddy
....when you hit the brakes, the linkage sticks and want to push the carb arm way past closed....

Scroll up a but and get a closeup at baneonrt's linkage in the pic. I'm pretty sure that's the Ofna throttle linkage, I have the same setup, except he's not using the brake links that come with the kit. Note that where the linkage goes through it's plastic.

What happens is the stock linkage thingies - the metal cylinders with the hole in them where the rods go through - rock back and forth a little putting nicks in the linkage. They then start to hang up on the nicks. A temporary solution is to sand the linkage rods smooth and oil them up well, but a permanent one is to use the Ofna linkage set, I got mine on eBay for about $7.

Peace in . . . .


:D

:D


Originally posted by Polk
.....So i think i will have to cut it short.....well see how that goes, then i have to find the source of a mysterious air leak somewhere that is pissing fuel all over the GT!....

Use a gasket, if you don't have one, make one from automotive gasket material. As for the bolts, cutting them will work, but be sure to file the end nice and smooth so when you thread it in it goes easy - don't force it or it will strip.

[The King]

The carb I have on my os 15 cvrx (s) has a rotary carb. The new motor I received today came with a slide carb. What do I have to do to put in the os 15 with the slide carb?

[ross]

Originally posted by The King
The carb I have on my os 15 cvrx (s) has a rotary carb. The new motor I received today came with a slide carb. What do I have to do to put in the os 15 with the slide carb?

There should have been a seperate peice of A4 that came with your kit showing you how to set up a slide carb on a GT. Its not that complicated really, just turn your servo around so the horn is towards the front of the truck and then turn the horn around so youve got a hole either side of the servo and then straight peices of linkage wire for the brake and throttle.


Ross.

[tipper]

Originally posted by baneonrt
Well, since there hasn't been a whole lot of traffic I figure I'll post pictures of the latest version of my GT.

It started off as a circa '98 - '99 tub chassis Team kit. I've upgraded it beyond Factory Team specs. More information can be found on the simple site I made for my GT. http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/

http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/pictures/ver3overhead.jpg

Just got finished rewiring it. I relocated the power switch to the side of the RPM reciever box because I kept having problems with it switching off after a hard jolt when mounted to the rear shock tower. Also tried my first attempt at a home built reciever pack. Working on my second attempt now.

Now I just need to finish painting my second body and it'll be ready to run. :)

Steve

what type of batteries are you using to make the homemade battery pack e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com

[Polk]

Im sorry baneonrt but that is just terrible....ITS JUST TO CLEAN!!!!

:D

Yeah Im using a gasket, ansd i replaced it as well to, seems to have stopped it with the new screws and all..hopefully.

I took it tou for a few tanks yesterday, ran fine apart from a few "human errors". In otherwords i forgot to tighten some screws here and there and, well, stripped 2 spurs before I realised!! DOH! But thanks to my good mate rocknbil i had some spares. And then there is the dogbones, dont get me started, cvds should be here soon! yay!

The highest temp we got here yesterday was 7 degrees, 7 F#$%&#*@%^* DEGREES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Peace out

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by Polk
Im sorry baneonrt but that is just terrible....ITS JUST TO CLEAN!!!!

Hehe, don't worry, it'll be dirty soon enough. The tires on it are just so I can play around in front of my house without tearing up the dirt tires.


TIPPER:

They're just 1800mAh AA's. Nothing special. I'm going to order some 2/3 A's to make an 1100mAh 5 cell hump pack when I get a chance. I can make two packs for less than $20 compared to $30 for a single Trinity pack.

Steve

[The King]

Originally posted by ross
There should have been a seperate peice of A4 that came with your kit showing you how to set up a slide carb on a GT. Its not that complicated really, just turn your servo around so the horn is towards the front of the truck and then turn the horn around so youve got a hole either side of the servo and then straight peices of linkage wire for the brake and throttle.


Ross.

Ross is there a picture somewhere that can give me some reference?

[stealthpenguin]

I need to sell my GT!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1080062#post1080062

$350 shipped.

[ross]

Originally posted by The King
Ross is there a picture somewhere that can give me some reference?

I dont have mine with me otherwise I would scan it and send it you. Unfortunatly you can't just view the manuals on Associated's website, you have to pay for them.

Im sure some kind person on here will scan thier's for you. :)


Ross.

[baneonrt]

So, I'm thinking of buying an OS .12TR to replace my .12 CV. What are you guys with rear exhaust engines using for exhaust manifolds. The only options I can think of off hand are the Trinity, Losi and Mugen headers. Are there others? What is the best fit for the GT?

Thanks

Steve

[The King]

Originally posted by ross
I dont have mine with me otherwise I would scan it and send it you. Unfortunatly you can't just view the manuals on Associated's website, you have to pay for them.

Im sure some kind person on here will scan thier's for you. :)


Ross.

That sure would be nice:D

[tipper]

Originally posted by baneonrt
They're just 1800mAh AA's. Nothing special. I'm going to order some 2/3 A's to make an 1100mAh 5 cell hump pack when I get a chance. I can make two packs for less than $20 compared to $30 for a single Trinity pack.

Steve

thanks I am getting a load of parts them I will post my truck I have 400.00 worth of parts coming tomorrow new body some aluminum mostly plastic and spare parts but new masher 2000 and velocity all that all new arms maybe a new screw kit but I am fine right not and all it dose any whay is make it look good. new engine 13 spur gears new mip 4-1 and next week I am buying a mx-3

hehe

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by baneonrt
So, I'm thinking of buying an OS .12TR to replace my .12 CV. What are you guys with rear exhaust engines using for exhaust manifolds. The only options I can think of off hand are the Trinity, Losi and Mugen headers. Are there others? What is the best fit for the GT?


I reccomend the Losi header. I started with a Trinity one but it sat too low and put the pipe/header way too close to the ground for my liking (less than 1/8 of an inch of clearance). I'm running the Losi now and it does a lot better.

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I reccomend the Losi header. I started with a Trinity one but it sat too low and put the pipe/header way too close to the ground for my liking (less than 1/8 of an inch of clearance). I'm running the Losi now and it does a lot better.

Great, exactly the kind of information I was fishing for :) Now any suggestions on where to purchase the Losi header?

Also, any reasons why I should not buy an OS .12TR w/rotary carb? The price seems right and power output should blow away my current .12CV.

Steve

[tipper]

what is a really good upgrade to get

[tipper]

Originally posted by baneonrt
Great, exactly the kind of information I was fishing for :) Now any suggestions on where to purchase the Losi header?

Also, any reasons why I should not buy an OS .12TR w/rotary carb? The price seems right and power output should blow away my current .12CV.

Steve

ya go for an xp.12 out of anybody I know performance I am on my 5th engine in 3 months my 5th was the xp.12 from team trinity it blows away the os.12TR. the xp comes with rotary to and if you want even major jump go for the xp.15 trust me you can tell the diffrence with the os and the xp the xp has alot more torque and speed. it is also what you are looking for around that price range and no I do not work for team trinity just to let you know.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRT71&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWV57&P=0

these are in your prive range I am useing the one with the blue head. they are the best for the price. trust me

[tipper]

also I see more people race with xp12 then os they are also really liking the engines to they can go all the way up to 30% nitro to. even 40% for a couple tanks. os can't stand 40% I did some back yard test

[offroadcrazy01]

the os -tr is a great engine some of the pro's even use it You don't need the fastest enging in the world to win a race.If you can drive I have seen guys beat guys with mt12 with a os cv it's just depends on tuning and the driver

[tipper]

ya but he said he wants power I just told him whitch was powerful

[stealthpenguin]

RC10GT FOR SALE

Guys, I need to sell my GT really badly! .

I'm only asking for $350, shipped . There is over $1200 worth of stuff in it, and anyone here can tell you that it has solid upgrades.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/for...062#post1080062

[The King]

I was think about my motor and I was wondering this....

Since Slick 50 works so well in the motor of my auto at keeping everything lubed up. Would it work just as well in my OS.15?

[tipper]

stealth post some pics for me to see and king it will not work you need after run. I also think 350 is a little steap consitering I was selling mine for 300 and it was almost all aluminum and I had put in 1500.00 and was selling everything. I need to see picks and next time post it in the b/s/t

[stealthpenguin]

http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/rc10gt/rc10gt_silver_front.jpg
http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/rc10gt/rc10gt_silver_left.jpg
http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/rc10gt/rc10gt_silver_rear.jpg
http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/rc10gt/rc10gt_silver_right.jpg
http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/ebay/lot_1.jpg
http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/ebay/lot_parts.jpg
http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/ebay/lot_2.jpg

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by tipper
ya but he said he wants power I just told him whitch was powerful

Well, I never actually said I wanted power, just that I wanted the TR engine :) I understand the concept of "usable" power. I'm actually hoping the TR won't be too much for my current skill level. But at the current price I just couldn't pass it up.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Steve

[tipper]

I will think about it but woun't you miss your truck

[stealthpenguin]

I'm getting a Kanai, and it wasn't really my choice to get rid of it.

My dad said the only way he'd let me get another R/C, is if I sold my RC10GT, because he doesn't want me investing too much into my "toys".

[tipper]

ic well sorry man I got a better offer for parts truck

[rc10gtroller]

I have been having a problem recently with my ball cups. Everytime i try and adjust my camber i think(cant remeber which,camber,or toe in and out)but its the turnbuckle on top. Everytime i try to adjust the ball cups pop off. I have the rpm ball cups on them now because the old ones caused lots of trouble in the past. The rpm ones are great but recently thats been happening. Are he balls themselves worn out maybe. I thought i could have been because the turnbuckle is really hard the turn in the ball cups. Should i maybe try and lube the insides so they turn easier?any suggestions?

[ross]

Originally posted by rc10gtroller
I have been having a problem recently with my ball cups. Everytime i try and adjust my camber i think(cant remeber which,camber,or toe in and out)but its the turnbuckle on top. Everytime i try to adjust the ball cups pop off. I have the rpm ball cups on them now because the old ones caused lots of trouble in the past. The rpm ones are great but recently thats been happening. Are he balls themselves worn out maybe. I thought i could have been because the turnbuckle is really hard the turn in the ball cups. Should i maybe try and lube the insides so they turn easier?any suggestions?

Even though the RPM's are great, they do still wear after a while so they could probaly do with replacing. And yes it is possible that the balls need replacing too. I think I've heard somewhere about lubing the inside of the ball cup but Im not 100% sure on it.

BTW, The top turnbuckle is camber, bottom is toe.

[rocknbil]

I always have that problem, especially when they are new, now I just make sure I have a wrench to hold the cup handy in addition to the the T.B. wrench when I get ready to tweak turnbuckles. The hard part is getting a good grip on the cup so it doesn't scratch or mangle it . . . . that's kinda important you know, keeping it from looking like the dog got ahold of it . .. uhh never mind. :D

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
I'm getting a Kanai, and it wasn't really my choice to get rid of it.

As awesome as the GTs are, you aren't going to miss it.

[Polk]

Here are some RC action pics with my new RC10GT body (dam shes sexy!)

Not to bad for a 3 Megapixel cam with only 4X zoom or whatever!!

If you want to see more pics, in better quality, etc
GO HERE (http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/car.html). I wont kill my fellow 56k users in this thread. :D

Here they are:

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good.jpg

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good10.JPG

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good11.JPG

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good7.JPG

Comments please!

Enjoy!!

[tipper]

wow you bought a pre painted atomic body
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRB4&P=0

ford f-150 orange and blue with removiable windows and a decal sheet.

it soots your truck tough.

[Polk]

Yeah? You point?

You saw some Atomik stickers.....thats why they are there. So everyone can see its from atomik....and that i didnt paint it - just incase your implying that i didnt paint it and was implying that i did.

:D

[The King]

Originally posted by Polk
Here are some RC action pics with my new RC10GT body (dam shes sexy!)

Not to bad for a 3 Megapixel cam with only 4X zoom or whatever!!

If you want to see more pics, in better quality, etc
GO HERE (http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/car.html). I wont kill my fellow 56k users in this thread. :D

Here they are:

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good.jpg

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good10.JPG

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good11.JPG

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/Good7.JPG

Comments please!

Enjoy!!

You are very brave to run you truck in the mud :D

[tipper]

who dosen't drive there truck in the mud

[The King]

Originally posted by tipper
who dosen't drive there truck in the mud
Me:D

[The King]

Went to race my GT yesterday for the first time. It was on a oval on road track. I grabbed my crystal number and I went on and took a few practice laps. This other guy came up to me and asked if I had a different crystal because we had the same number. I said no I have them on order but they are not in yet. So to may a long story short I let him race and I went out to eat with the wife and kids.
And then this happened before I left. I had all my gear set on the back of my cars trunk when this guy said to me sorry about that. I had no clue what he was talking about until today. I was running my GT out on the street when I noticed I have some slight movement on my pistal grip. I took a look at it to find out it was cracked. So I put two and two together and realized he dropped my radio off my trunk.
Do you think I should confront this guy? I am a lover and not a fighter so beatting his A$$ is out of the question.:D

[bubbastump]

good bearing prices (http://www.rcbearings.com)

[tipper]

why not mud is the best thing it slides burns out and sprays

[Railman]

King,
Is it possible that the guy was just saying he was sorry to bump you from racing (freq conflict), & not for breaking your radio? Maybe your radio broke another way, or was previously cracked without noticing? It sucks that it cracked, but I've been running a ca'd trigger on my KO Mars for about 4 years, without any problem.
Joe

[rocknbil]

Kind of hard to follow, you said you went out to lunch and then "this happened" like you left and your stuff was left there . . . anyway I figure accidents happen. If it were me I would probably let it go, but I might ask if what I think happened actually did.

[The King]

Originally posted by Railman
King,
Is it possible that the guy was just saying he was sorry to bump you from racing (freq conflict), & not for breaking your radio? Maybe your radio broke another way, or was previously cracked without noticing? It sucks that it cracked, but I've been running a ca'd trigger on my KO Mars for about 4 years, without any problem.
Joe

Railman, He didn't bump me from the race. I felt bad for him so I gave up my freq to him even though I had it first. This other guy knocked my gun down before I left out for dinner with my kids.

I guess I will just leave it be because my radio does still work.:D

Maybe I will just ask him how he knocked it down so I do not put it in that possion again.

[nitroice0069]

Hi i have a RC10GT FT with O.S. TR in it and i was wondering what are some things i can do to get some more traction in the rear end.


Thanks for any help

JamEs

[tipper]

Originally posted by nitroice0069
Hi i have a RC10GT FT with O.S. TR in it and i was wondering what are some things i can do to get some more traction in the rear end.


Thanks for any help

JamEs

Better tire more weight That is all I can thing of

[iwannarc]

My dad was running his RC10GT around today and he accidentally launched it into about 6" of water. He blew all the water off of it, but the servo's weren't responding. He is going to let it sit and hope the water dries out and he is hoping he didn't ruin his practically brand new Futaba Servos. I hope he didn't realy ruin it but if he did, you may hear about a freshly broken in FT RC10GT with fried servos for sale. LAter.

[atm92484_3]

Open up the cases on the electronics and blow the boards off with a hairdryer.

James, trying using the ARC/exponential on your radio. From what I saw at the track, you already have a pretty soft spring in the rear and 30wt oil.

[xtreme]

I have an OS .12 CV-X engine in my GT. I am having problems installing a throttle return spring. I have been using these springs I got at the hardware store. They work fine for my other vehicle but they seem too strong for the throttle lever on the carb.

What do you guys use for TRS's and how do you mount them? Does anyone have any pics of theirs?

I did have one installed but the throttle lever on the carb seems to be plastic, and whenever it is pulled by the spring it torques the lever to the point where it looks like it is going to snap. Maybe is there a steel lever replacement?

Thanks,

Scott

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by iwannarc
My dad was running his RC10GT around today and he accidentally launched it into about 6" of water. He blew all the water off of it, but the servo's weren't responding. He is going to let it sit and hope the water dries out and he is hoping he didn't ruin his practically brand new Futaba Servos. I hope he didn't realy ruin it but if he did, you may hear about a freshly broken in FT RC10GT with fried servos for sale. LAter.
Are they digitals? I think futaba digital servos are waterproof. He could have fried the reciever if neither servo works.

[iwannarc]

Umm....is the FM set-up digital? All I know, is that after he blew all the water out, they didn't respond. LAter.

[Polk]

take them apart and leave in the hotwater cupboard overngiht. I do this with my temp gauge all the time and it works sweet the next day!

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by iwannarc
Umm....is the FM set-up digital? All I know, is that after he blew all the water out, they didn't respond. LAter.
If you can tell me the numbers on the I can tell you if theyre digital. Servos can be digital, an fm radio isnt considered digital. Did they come with a radio? because if they did is not a big deal at all theyre probably just crappy s3003s which cost like $9.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Oh and test the reciever with another servo if you have one, it sounds to me like its a problem with the reciever.

[Railman]

About the wet receiver,
I have an electronics recovery & repair shop across from my shop. They do insurance fire, & water damage work on just about anything you might find in a home or business, including computers, tv's etc. All they do to "recover" an item is to hose it down with a special chemical (water!), & then proceed to dry it out thorougly as soon as possible. It seems that the big culprit isn't the water, it's the carbon (from fire), & dirt left on electronics. The trick is not to use it when contaminated, & also not to let it stay wet for too long. After they hose stuf down real good, they blow it down with air, they put it in a high heat room with good air circulation. By the next morning it's done.

I asked the owner of the company how often they have trouble with their technique, & he said it was extremely rare thay have any failures.

Again, the trick is to get the crud out, & dry it out. That's prety much what electronics cleaner spray cans do also, by absorbing the water, & lifting the crud.
Joe

[Polk]

WOW!!

Toko the restrictor out of my engine today (wow, i can hear rocknbil sigh from over here!!) ! I knew it would be faster, but damn!!!!!!!!!!! This is killler fast and still sitting on 220!!

Manifold has stripped out today, somehow, well its either that or the screws are bust...im hunting around for a spring now...

Slightly odd problem, after about 2 secs (max) at WOT it slows RIGHT dowwwwwwn. Then i can rev it back up to wot again and same problem, im thinking its the needles...but i havent messed with them yet, cause of the manifold so we will see.

CVDS STILL NOT HERE! DAM RCBOYZ DAM YOU!!!!!!!!!

[Railman]

Polk,
It sounds like it's way lean on top end. I can't think of any opther reason why it would act like that. Runaways stuck wide open will ussually scream until someone stops them, or they blow. Maybe your bottom end is overly rich, & keeping the temp down, while the top end is lean. If you removed the restrictor, you also should have richened it... maybe 1/4 turn?\

As far as the manifold screw is concerned, you may be able to fit a jamb nut on the back side to hold you over till your parts buddy can help you out. What a nice guy! :cool: The other thing that helps is to put locktite on the screw, install it, remove it, & let it dry while out. What that will do is shimm the stripped threads a bit to tighen them up. A fresh screw will sometimes help also, but You probably don't have one...Hey Bill!

I have a method for holding the manifold on, but not many seem to like it. For the life of me, I can't understand why. I don't use a gasket. I flatten the header flange with a flat file, & then use RTV sensor safe silicone instead of a gasket. The file part is important, because the header flanfe is only a punched out chunck of alum. The egine block is already machined flat. The filed surface also helps the silicone stick better. The hardest part is installing the header, without messing up the thin layer of silicone. You need to get both screws started, before you allow the header ot meet the engine block. I have never had an exhaust leak this way... even with stripped screws.
Joe
Joe

[TallMouse]

where is a good site to get soem hop ups and also what are some good ones?

[Polk]

I have some screws, but they are not ideal...

Thats what i though as well railman about the needles...

I also have tried the nut idea but i cant find a nut that will fit, im still looking!!!

Anyway im stripping the whole thing down now. Give it a good clean, some nice pics, Ive got a lot of messed up screws, and stuff in it so i need to replace all those. Reciver box is a little messed up need to fix that, gonna strip down engine when the correct hex driver arrives from tower and inspect, most likeley there will be some scratches, etc. Im pretty hard on me old engine!. Install cvds when i get them from rcboyz (ebay), probably rebuild rear shocks and put some new seals or something in them (anyone got the link for those? I remember someone telling me about them when i asked about rebuilding shocks), find anything that is broken/looks like its gonna break, clean carb, yea i think thats it!!!!!!!!

:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by iwannarc
. . He blew all the water off of it, but the servo's weren't responding.. . ..

Well railman said receiver and you said servos, but a happy accident because I think it's more likely a drop of water or two is in the receiver and that's the prob., not the servos, you probably have it all dried oout by now and it's good to go.


Originally posted by Polk
....Toko the restrictor out of my engine today...

You mean you broke all that stuff with the restrictor in? Man, tower hobbies is going to LOVE you! :D

...CVDS STILL NOT HERE!

They'll get there, awwwl ma' CVD's came from UTAH. :D


...probably rebuild rear shocks and put some new seals or something in them...

Well I have had bad experiences with anything but the stocks, the MIP ones are a harder rubber and though the hard sell is durability I've always had them leak right off the bat.

You shouldn't need to rebuild them already do you? Are they leaking bad? Are you overfilling? Ovefilling is the #1 cause of leaks, people fill up shocks for "bounceback" and that's not what they're for, in case you don't know that story . . .

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133247#post1085206

Anyway any AE kit will work, they're what, three bucks or so?

[The King]

Originally posted by TallMouse
where is a good site to get soem hop ups and also what are some good ones?

Here you go http://www.rc10gthobby.com/index.htm

[tipper]

dose anybody make a boost bottle for a picco xp.15

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by tipper
dose anybody make a boost bottle for a picco xp.15
Dont bother putting one on boost bottles dont really work, but if your set on getting one I think MIP makes one that would work.

[rocknbil]

Tipper - why would you want to deface a beautiful Picco by drilling a hole in the side and attaching the RC equivalent of a colostomy bag on it? Boost bottles don't really do a whole lot more than change the idle characteristics, they certainly don't boost anything, the general opinion is that they're basically worthless.

Anyway, an MIP boost bottle will pretty much fit on anything . . . . I have one but can't bring myself to sell it to anyone, and giving it away would be . . .well that would just be evil . . .

[tipper]

ya they give you more bottom end and mid if you do it right and they don't look all that bad they make it look kinda cool. I have one on ly ae.15 and it help a hole lot with acceleration and mid but top still stays the same but power band last longer and is more consitant

[bad viking]

Hi
I have a FT and I just lost the little sylinder-lookin thing.
I thought that I should heatshrink them, but I cant find it at any of my local shops. Can any of you give me a adress to a page that sells this nice stuff? Or better could I order some from one of you. I`ll pay it all ofcourse!!!!!

Just have to get them heatshrinked!!!

Bad Viking

[bad viking]

Hi
I have a FT and I just lost the little sylinder-lookin thing at my rear CVD!!!
I thought that I should heatshrink them, but I cant find it at any of my local shops. Can any of you give me a adress to a page that sells this nice stuff? Or better could I order some from one of you. I`ll pay it all ofcourse!!!!!

Just have to get them heatshrinked!!!

Bad Viking

[bad viking]

I was a bit clumsey, I didnt tell you that it was at the CVD I ment.
But now Iwe fixed that to. Well, LOL, Im so tierd, its 23.45 in Norway now so a you might understand im a bit tierd(hard day on work to, hehe).

Have a nice day!!

Bad Viking

[G24racer]

There is a EDIT button you can use.

[dragracer28]

I have been wanting to get a GT for a long time now. Should I get the Team, FT or RTR. I already have many electrics so I now how to build and I have radios. I have freinds that have had GT's for about 8 years and know a lot about them. I work on nitro dragsters so I now about tuning nitro motors and how they run.

[Pro3/nmt105]

If you use thread lock on your cv-ds they should stay together, mine do. I saw some shrink wrap that could fit on cv-ds at loews, they have all diffrent sizes.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by tipper
ya they give you more bottom end and mid if you do it right ...

Do it right? There's only one way to do it, drill a hole in your crankcase, thread it, screw in the nipple and attach the hose . . . . I don't know who told you that but if I were you I'd ask around a bit, most people absolutely don't agree with that, I think Ron Paris even says they're worthless. I'd just send you mine but I really think I'd be doing you more harm than good. :D

http://www.parisracing.com

Pro . . . do thay have Lowe's in Norway? :D

Viking all kidding aside he means a hardware store, although auto stores usually carry a heat-shrink assortment pack that will have what you want. As for the cylinder in the CVD, no help there, don't know . . .

[offroadcrazy01]

Does any body use shock limiters in there shocks if so how did it change the truck. I put two in both my rear shocks to keep my cvd's from coming out is it going to change the way my truck handles?

[stealthpenguin]

dragracer,

I have a RC10GT FT for sale:

eBay item number #3138129258 (http://**************/ws/*******************************3138129258&category=44017&rd=1)

Take a look, I'm asking $300 + shipping.

[Polk]

DAMMIT!!!1

Pull starter cord broke today :( it was gonna happen, some day.
I got some new cord from hardware store andi m trying to fix it now but im doubtful.......New one on order...

Anyone got the link for a shock seal kit?

thanks

[Floop]

Now I know this is going to seem like a total newb question - but that's OK. I am a newb.;)

I am trying to install the TF titanium turnbuckles and the RPM heavy duty rod ends. I can get one rod end on each turnbuckle without much trouble, but it seems that one end on each of them won't thread into the rod end. Has anybody else come across this? It seems kinda odd to me.:rolleyes:

[stealthpenguin]

You must be threading in the wrong direction. The turnbuckles are designed to thread in opposite directions so that they are easily adjustable from turning the middle.

[dragracer28]

use a tap that is the thread size(4-40). Most hardware stores sell regular taps. Bottoming taps if you can find one are the best because they will cut threads all the way to the end unlike regular tapered taps

[Polk]

Okay

Well i kinda fixed my pullstart, but now the knot on the cord that was holding it in the pull start case thing has come undone so im pretty much back to square 1. hmph. :mad:

Also, while i was at it i took off my backplate do have a look inside the crankcase, etc. Found quite a lot of dirt on the inside of the backplate!! And what looks like a little bit of rust on the edges of the crankshaft (??!!??)

Enging still runs fine though!! Still great compression and im up to about 7 L! Which equals to about 1.8 gallons for you crazy americans.

Oh well, back to the workbench a.k.a desk in my room :eek:

[Floop]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
You must be threading in the wrong direction. The turnbuckles are designed to thread in opposite directions so that they are easily adjustable from turning the middle.

Oh my goodness I feel like such a tool.:eek: Thank you.

/me runs away and hides in embarrassment.

[baneonrt]

So I broke a caster block bashing around this past weekend. I've seen mention of people using T3 caster blocks and kingpins but couldn't uncover the posts with a search. Would anybody care to fill me in on the details? Advantages/disadvantages? I remember bumpsteer being mentioned in the post I saw. It could have been on another forum though.

Thanks

Steve

[baneonrt]

A friend and I were bashing around in the flat area of the Lake Almanor spillway near Chester, CA. Here is a short video of me playing around. I thought it was pretty cool so figured I'd share.

http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/videos/rc10gtAlmanor.WMV

And here is a cool jump he managed with his Ofna Hyper 7 buggy.

http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/videos/Hyper7.WMV

Hopefully you all can see these. If they don't auto play right click on the link and save it to disk. The first video is about 2.2MB but the second one is small, less than 120KB.

BTW, at the end of the first video is when I broke the caster block/hub carrier whatever it's called :)

Steve

[ross]

Originally posted by baneonrt
So I broke a caster block bashing around this past weekend. I've seen mention of people using T3 caster blocks and kingpins but couldn't uncover the posts with a search. Would anybody care to fill me in on the details? Advantages/disadvantages? I remember bumpsteer being mentioned in the post I saw. It could have been on another forum though.

Thanks

Steve

It was Myst Racing who came up with the idea, they have to be used with the 0 degree rear hub carriers though to give best performance. He posted it on here a while ago but you can contact him on the www.rc10gthobby.com forum.


Ross.

[toolcity-racer]

I went to break in a new gt plus and the factory settings on the carb were way off. it didn't start right away and after setting the min. gap it started but when i gave it gas the engine raced to a veryhigh pitch and before i could shut it down it smoked the clutch shoes and melted the spur gear of about an inch of teeth. i guess it's my fault for not checking the high and low needle settings first before starting it but you would think associated would have them close for break-in for the new engine. I don't know if the engine is ruined but it sure makes you mad when the carb setting is so extremely off right out of the box for an RTR kit. My brother's kit low needle was completely out when he took it to hobby people where he went for help after his would not start. I have several rtr's and an ntc3 kit and never had an engine react so badly. I have deceided to throw a 12 into the gt plus for racing but i thought the gt takes a short crank . the 15 in the rtr kit is a sg crank. So what would be the prefered replacement for the 15. to a 12 engine in the gt plus? I had planned on buying a kit gt but deceided to go rtr to save time from box to race and then later make changes and upgrades to the truck. Another bad mistake (live and learn)

[ross]

toolcity,

Atleast you can admit to it, most new guys who have just got thier trucks blame all thier problems on the manufacturer. But yeah your right, you shouldnt have expected the carb settings to be right.

The GT always uses the short shaft on other makes of engine, so if you get a engine by OS, Novarossi etc. etc make sure you get the short shaft one. Even though the standard associated engine uses a SG crank, its imperial so the clutch nut is imperial for it too so then if you use a SG crank by another engine manufacturer it wont because because has far as i know all other maufactueres use metric cranks.

[toolcity-racer]

I didn't know that about the cranks and thanks for the info .

I plan on doing some regular weekend racing and the track shop carries a very limited supply of associatted parts (they mostly run losi) What parts are most likely needed for minor maintenance as i will be driving 100 miles just to race and don't want simple brake downs to stop my racing.(just the parts that are likely to brake)

[The King]

Originally posted by toolcity-racer
I didn't know that about the cranks and thanks for the info .

I plan on doing some regular weekend racing and the track shop carries a very limited supply of associatted parts (they mostly run losi) What parts are most likely needed for minor maintenance as i will be driving 100 miles just to race and don't want simple brake downs to stop my racing.(just the parts that are likely to brake)

Holy Crap you drive 100 mile just to race? I am so lucky here we have a oval track that I race at that is only 10 miles away:D

[toolcity-racer]

This track is one of the closer tracks in pa. everything in ohio is the same or farther. i found this track promoting a cancer fund race next month. as a volunteer fireman you learn to help out your local comunity and fund drives no mater the cost. plus the track owner was real nice and the local racers were helpful. this will be my first year racing and looking forward to running my vehicles on a track finally ! winning,losing, and wrecking !-can't wait.