Associated RC10GT Forum v7.0

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by toolcity-racer
.......after setting the min. gap it started but when i gave it gas the engine raced to a veryhigh pitch and before i could shut it down it smoked the clutch shoes and melted the spur gear of about an inch of teeth.....

That actually sounds like the throttle stuck open, are you sure it wasn't a servo, receiver, or throttle linkage problem?

[The King]

Can someone post a picture of their slide carb set up on their GT if they are running one? I want to see how the install is done.:D

Thanks Much
The King

[Pro3/nmt105]

^^^^
check the manual, its got pics and assembly steps.

I know that you put the throttle servo in backwards.

[stealthpenguin]

http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/rc10gt/slidecarb_linkage.jpg

[The King]

Thanks Stealth

[ross]

Id love to know how stealth makes them bends so neat! Especially the sort of S shape on the throttle.

[toolcity-racer]

It could be that the radio glitched during the problem(i set it down to check the truck out and look at carb opening as filter was off after seting idle gap) but the thottle action and trims seemed to be fine.there was nothing binding in linkage so i'm not sure ,I just know to double check everything next time

[bubbastump]

its kinda easy heat the rod and bent but his came with the slide carb conversion for his break
nice break stealth
home of that brake (http://www.rc10gthobby.com)

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics/rc10gt/slidecarb_linkage.jpg
Its not a good idea to use aluminum screws to mount your engine, they cant take the stress.

[stealthpenguin]

Hmmm... that's strange. I used those same aluminum screws for the entire lifespan of my car, never failed me. = )

Also, for the linkage, I just used some aircraft pushrod, and used some sharpie to mark the bends, and then made the bends with some pliers.

It couldn't be easier! = D

[geo8498]

my throttle and brake linkage
OS CVX15 Hyper
Ofna linkage kit
Traxxas 2055 servo
Stronger brake rod by me

[geo8498]

Originally posted by geo8498
my throttle and brake linkage
OS CVX15 Hyper
Ofna linkage kit
Traxxas 2055 servo
Stronger brake rod by me
Guess I should post the picture, huh.

[xtreme]

Originally posted by xtreme
I have an OS .12 CV-X engine in my GT. I am having problems installing a throttle return spring. I have been using these springs I got at the hardware store. They work fine for my other vehicle but they seem too strong for the throttle lever on the carb.

What do you guys use for TRS's and how do you mount them? Does anyone have any pics of theirs?

I did have one installed but the throttle lever on the carb seems to be plastic, and whenever it is pulled by the spring it torques the lever to the point where it looks like it is going to snap. Maybe is there a steel lever replacement?

Thanks,

Scott

I never received any replies to this so I thought I would ask again.

Thanks,
Scott

[Polk]

Originally posted by geo8498
Guess I should post the picture, huh.

Now thats a real GT!!! Dirty!!!!

I love your shocktowers by the way...:D

[tipper]

Originally posted by geo8498
Guess I should post the picture, huh.

Have you ever though of cleaning it I will post some pics soon I just got a new body with parma flames looks awsome tons of new parts again

[rocknbil]

Polk - those I believe are Team Bluestar's, both our GT's have them but there's a catch: as rough as you are on your baby you would probably bend them. My wife is trigger-happy on big jumps and bent a set already. :D You can get fronts and rears for about $20 on ebay, but the graphite or fiberglas ones are more resilient.

xtreme - no one answered because it's a topic of mixed controversy, I think. Some people swear by them others don't.

My personal opinion: Any TRS strong enough to pull the servo back when you lose power is going to put a killer strain on your servo, shorten it's life, and with the extra load do a major drain number on your electrical, possibly dropping the voltage enough to cause deadly glitching. It sounds like you're at that point.

A possible solution is to use a fast and stong servo and a 5-cell pack, I have Futabas at 89 oz/in., .09 secs (S9402's) that could probably handle that . . but the last thing I want to do is put a strain on such a sweet servo . . . LOL . . .

I use a TRS just stong enough to pull the arm back if the linkage falls off, no more, for the above reasons. I bolt it to the back side of the linkage and the other end to a motor mount.

Arguments please . . . . :D

[Polk]

Yea I know Ive seen them on ebay...I just picked up a brand spanking new pullstart for $0.99!!!!!!!!!

I now have an impressive list of hop-ups, etc on my GT, hopefully I will break no more! (hopefully........)

Here it is:
RPM Front Bumper *
RPM Body Mounts *
RPM Front arms *
RPM Ball cups *
RPM Reciever Box *
RPM Bulkheads *
RPM Shock Mounts *
MIP Temp 2 Guage
MIP CVD's
HG Tranny Brace *
Aluminiumm Shock Caps
Aluminiumm Screw Kit (50/50)
Stainless Steel Scew Kit (50/50)
Associated Air Filter
Kimbourough Spur Gears *
Atomik RC Body
Large Fuel filter

And probably a few more ive left out!
* The ones with the * next to them, rocknbil has sent me! What a great guy! (for payment of course..)

And pics, which im sure you have all seen:
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/car.html

[xtreme]

ROCKNBIL: Thanks. Actually it is not the servo I am afraid of damaging, it is the carbs throttle arm. It twists right out of shape with the TRS on. I am trying to see if there is a solid steel replacement arm for the carb. It is from an OS .12 CV-X.

[rocknbil]

Yeah, if it's tweaking that hard the spring is too strong I think, but as I recall I could not find a metal one. That probably wouldn be a great idea anyway as a metal one would put unnecessary stress on the throttle barrel, maybe . . .

[Railman]

Extreme,
Rather than use that stiff of a spring on the carb, try using two lighter springs.

I like to use one on the servo, & one on the carb. That way if one fails or breaks, you still have at least something. Usually, even a weak spring will return while an engine is running, due to the additional help from the vibration. Another benifit of two is it helps preload the linkage, so as to minimize the effects of linkage slop. I run one from the brake arm/servo to the front of the truck. For this I use a rubber band, & mount it to the front tube stand off screw. Just install a longer screw with an additional spacer of some sort. I used an endbell heat sink form a mod elec motor, but anthing similar will do.
Joe

[tipper]

I do have a list of hop ups on my gt to

RPM rear bulk head
RPM rear a-arms
RPM ront a-arms
RPM body mounts
RPM reciver box
RPM mini front bumper
RPM ball cups
Lunsford titanium turnbuckles black
Lunsford titanium hing pins black
Mip shinny CVD'S
RRP steel spur gear and clutch bell
RRP hardened steel Idel gear
RRP Hardened Aluminum Diff Gear
RRP Titanium One Piece Topshaft
Pro-line crowd plezer body
Parma agressive flames
Rear graphite shock tower
front graphite shocktower
picco xp.15 engine
mx-3 radio
dubro fuel line and filter
RB header and pipe


just a little bit I need a couple more things before I can build a another truck from left over parts Have pics when I finish the trucks body

[Wallis Racing]

Hey guys,
Seeing as the others posted theres, i figure i'll chime in and post my hop-up list:

RC10GT Factory Team pull start kit
futaba MJ radio system
Hitech 605MG servo
RB Concept X12
Novarossi header
Hammad Ghuman ultra chassis(already tweaked:( )
RPM blue front arms
RPM blue rear arms
RPM black rear bulkhead
RPM blue and yellow HD cups
RPM yellow body mounts/posts
RPM blue reciever box
RPM yellow 3mm nylon nuts
RPM yellow 3deg rear arm mounts
RPM yellow front mini bumper
RPM yellow shock bottoms/spring cups
MIP ball bearing steering
MIP super diff rebuild
MIP thrust rebuild
MIP gold shock shafts
MIP blue seal o-rings for shocks
MIP shiney CVD's
MIP light weight blue alloy flywheel
MIP 4'n'1 clutch
RRP ti top shaft
RRP alloy main diff gear
RRP steal idler gear
RRP steal spur(65t) and HD clutchbell(15t) set
RRP HD 17t, 14t, 22t clutch bells
RRP 56t machined plastic spur
Trinity Team Kinwald blue alloy rear tranny brace
Trinity Team Kinwald blue alloy steering servo mounts
Trinity Team Kinwald blue alloy front chassis brace tube mounts
Team Associated non-pull mounts
Team Associated AE GT/NTC3 fuel tank(#7719)
Team Associated alloy shock caps
Socks 4 shocks blue HD shock socks(say that 3 times fast:rolleyes: )
Eureaka Pro purple closed ends
Dynamite fuel line clips
Venom Temp monitor
Ofna yellow throttle linkage kit
Lunsford titanium hinge pin and king pin set

Tires and rims:
Proline yellow rear dish rims with proline M3 gladiators
Proline yellow rear dish rims with Proline M3 road hawg II's
Proline yellow rear dish rims with proline speed paws
Proline yellow front dish rims with Proline M3 Edges
Proline yellow front dish rims with proline speed paws
Stock white AE rims with proline M2 edges
RPM rear blue chrome claws with Proline Sand Paws
RPM front blue chrome claws with Proline M3 Edges

all that and i still cant go 1 day with out breaking something:rolleyes:
maybe i should stop launching it off BMX jumps?

anyways,
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Pro3/nmt105]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You must have a very colorful truck!!!:D :rolleyes: :p

[chickenmobilin]

May sound like a stupid question , but I dont have a manual for my GT. If you are looking at the back of the truck , on which side should the DIFF adjustment screw face. Mine is facing to the right , but I am not sure if that is correct.

[Polk]

Yep, the right is correct.

[rocknbil]

Not stupid at all and is a VERY common mistake. Verified, Driver's side, yep, it will work loose if on the left.

[chickenmobilin]

It is supposed to be on the drivers side? I meant looking at it from the rear of the truck , it is on the right.

[Railman]

The head of the diff thrust screw goes on the right/passenger side.
Joe

[Railman]

In all honesty, I think the importance of which side the screw is on is over rated. Losi has basically the same diff components, & they put the screw on the drivers side. Repeat: They both use the same components!

If you were to hold the passenger wheel stationary on a GT, & freewheel (off the ground) the drivers side, it would try to loosen the thrust screw. The opposite technique (rt side free wheel) would tend to tighten it.

It would be the same for Losi. Some guys run their Losi's with the screw on the passenger side (ala Assoc.) but I just don't see what differance it makes, because it just depends on which wheel is freewheeling, or turning faster.

The only time it would consistantly make a differance is if you run on an oval!
Joe

[Nitrogt10]

I have a gt and I am getting a os 15 (the one with 1.2 hp) and I want to put a 24 tooth Clutch bell on it. But when i went to tower it said " May require some modification of vehicle to install " what kind of modifications will i need to do and do you guys think it will be worth it because of the loss of low end speed (i am not going to race with it )

Heres a link to the Clutch Bell
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEY85&P=7

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Railman
The head of the diff thrust screw goes on the right/passenger side.

OMG I have answered this question soooo many times, and looked it up in the manual EACH time, the one time I didn't I got it wrong . . . THX AGAIN RAILMAN . . .

RIGHT=PASSENGER, not driver.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134221

As for the "overrated" part, Polk here had the bolt work loose for exactly that reason. I think you probably never had any problem with it because you use the slipper, which removes a lot of repetitive and high-impact stress on the diff. Guys who lock down their slipper for wheelies are the ones who tend to rebuild their diff a lot and get it in backward as well . . .

[Railman]

Rocknbil,
I guess my real question is: What exactly takes place that causes the nut to loosen? One outdrive drives the screw, & one drives the nut. With the screw on the right side, (assuming that the thrust is crunchy enough to overtake the diff locknut), if you went around a right hand turn, it would tend to loosen the screw/nut, because the nut side would be spinning faster than the screw/thrust side. If you went through a left hand turn, it would tend to tighten the screw/nut. What's the differance?

I think that the big issue is the condition of the thrust bearing & locknut, & not which side it's on. If I'm wrong, I'd greatly appreciate an explanation as to why.;)
Joe

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil
RIGHT=PASSENGER, not driver.



But IT IS on the drivers side!!!!!!!!!!!


Well, in this country anyways.....:p

[RAYMAN1OO7]

is associated going to update the rc10gt anytime soon? or losi with the xxx-nt? because last time i bought a car(a ft-t3) associated came out with the b4 and i knew what was coming out after that, the t4. so i just want either the xxx-nt or ft-gt but dont want it to be outdated within 1 year.the 2 trucks are so nice, but its so hard to decide. hmm....xxx-nt Drake or ft rc10gt

[atm92484_3]

Go with the GT. With some tuning, it can be set up to handle just like a Losi just but keep the durability of the GT. As for updating it, I can't see that happening for atleast another year since the truck is still winning its share of races.

[rocknbil]

Railman, I don't know! It just does! I wouldn't say so if I hadn't seen it happen, in electrics and in nitros - Polk can attest to wrong-sided diff bolts. :D I think it has more to do with the side the spur is on and the care with which it's assembled, and checking it as it settles in. And being left handed is my only excuse for getting it backwards if I don't check the manual . . . lol

Welcome aboard Rayman, we'll all attest to the GT. The RTR Plus just came out and all they really did was add some team features, and I think their current new project is the monster truck, so without any official info I'd say they won't be coming out with anything any time soon. My personal opinion of why the AE doesn't change much is the same reason the AE diff hasn't undergone many major changes in 10 years: if you have something that works well, don't change it.

Browse some of the recent threads on the old "GT vs XXNT" argument, the GT just comes out ahead in competitiveness and durability.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Nitrogt10
.....But when i went to tower it said " May require some modification of vehicle to install " ....

Nitro what they probably are inferring is that with that large of a clutch bell and the smallest spur available, the engine may not slide far enough forward and you'll have to elongate the engine mount holes to get it to fit. Also you may need some different clutch that accommodates that large of a diameter. I don't know this for a fact, that's my guess, but I do know it gets kind of tight if you go too far off from stock, and some larger spurs won't fit in next to the suspension mount.

[tipper]

Originally posted by RAYMAN1OO7
is associated going to update the rc10gt anytime soon? or losi with the xxx-nt? because last time i bought a car(a ft-t3) associated came out with the b4 and i knew what was coming out after that, the t4. so i just want either the xxx-nt or ft-gt but dont want it to be outdated within 1 year.the 2 trucks are so nice, but its so hard to decide. hmm....xxx-nt Drake or ft rc10gt

they are working on a new GT. All I can say they are making a couple new parts and a little bit better design same engine very strong a little bit better sterring nothing much though you can get the ft and just upgrade I will do that when the parts are avalible in late spring. like I said there is not much upgrading on the new on just better steering some stronger new parts and a little better design and stability and still very derable. I would recomend the rtr plug and upgrade to the mx-3 or m8 right away like I did I have had my gt for 6 month and put 1600 into it and it is still not mod almost bet not quite. there are also some parts on the gt plus that are stronger then the graphite like the plastic shock towers the bend and don't ware cheap graphite are hard and stiff they brake easly alluminum bend and when u ben them back it weakend them. I modified my tranny to rrp, steering to mip, new engine, got all rpm parts best thing in my life I don't really like aluminum I like light durable plastic tat is cheap and strong. trust me I know more about the gt then all these guy I am the man to ask I work at associated in build department putting the gt and cars together and testing. I am not allowed to say anymore about the gt but that is it I don't really know much I just put them together still id designing stages. well gota run my body an't going to paint itsell e-mail me for pics in a couple days have fulol coulour of the truck

[ross]

Associated will be releasing the new GT towards the end of this year. I've talked to some drivers who are sponsered by the UK distributor of Associated and they have all said the same thing. Some have even seen prototype drawings of it. So they say anyway. :)

[rocknbil]

Why would someone who works at he AE factory take their GT into a local hobby shop for a tune-up?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=952138#post952138

Just curious. Also, what color is Mark Shusting's hair, and what does he do at AE? You probably see him every day, he's a pretty cool guy.

[tipper]

well here is the fact I never said how long I work there but mike reedy is really good riends of my mom and dads I wwas down there a couple weeks ago for a while I was was working at associated for some money. I also got to see the drawing of the new rc10gt and I heard it would come out in the spring. but there in not mny parts so there it is. I have never meat Mark Shusting's and ae is a big place most driver dont work in shipping and putting to gether gt and they don't come down there much

[Nitrogt10]

This is a dumb question but on tower there is a pic of the AE 15 (the engine i have in my gt right now) and a pic of the os 15. (the engine i will be getting soon)

When i was looking at the pics i noticed that the carb arms are on different sides of the engine and i dont think my stock inkage will reach it. (again this is most likly a dumb?)

links to tower pics
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUP75&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBWK5&P=K

[ross]

Dont worry about that the carb on the OS can be easily turned around.

[Nitrogt10]

ok;)

[chickenmobilin]

I wish these boards had a spell check feature!:D

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by tipper
trust me I know more about the gt then all these guy I am the man to ask I work at associated in build department putting the gt and cars together and testing. I am not allowed to say anymore about the gt but that is it I don't really know much I just put them together still id designing stages.

Since when did AE hire 15 year olds in Canada to work for them? :confused:

(I guess they moved their California office to Canada....:rolleyes: )

[tipper]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Since when did AE hire 15 year olds in Canada to work for them? :confused:

(I guess they moved their California office to Canada....:rolleyes: )

I never said they hired me my dad is good friend swith mike reedy and I am alwoed I have ****** spelling to work there for a week or so while we were vistiting family. I do know alot about the rc10gt. If know one is going to belive me that is all right I know it is true some people just need to see proof

[Railman]

Tipper quote:
"there are also some parts on the gt plus that are stronger then the graphite like the plastic shock towers the bend and don't ware cheap graphite are hard and stiff they brake easly alluminum bend and when u ben them back it weakend them. I modified my tranny to rrp, steering to mip, new engine, got all rpm parts best thing in my life I don't really like aluminum I like light durable plastic tat is cheap and strong. trust me I know more about the gt then all these guy I am the man to ask..."

Tipper,
If the "cheap graphite" parts were inferior to the RTR plastic ones, wouldn't you think the factory guys would run them? Don't you think the factory kits would be shipped with them as well? How much money you've spent on your GT has very little to do with how competetive your truck is. I have very little in the way of upgrades, but I bet mine works better.:D

As far as the aluminum parts, I agree.

I was going to ask your recomended setup for a smoothe loamy outdoor track with big jumps, but somehow I doubt you'd be of any help.:rolleyes:

Btw Tipper,
Why did you feel the need to flame everyone else that frequents this GT forum? I'll gaurantee you have a lot to learn before you know as much as a lot of guys on here.:confused
Joe

[rocknbil]

Tipper, Mr. Shusting is the site designer for AE, not a driver. One of the things I do know about AE is they are a close-knit company - almost everyone knows everyone else. There was a post a while back about one of the managers in shipping, he would even come or work on Satudays and sick to fill their orders, he felt obligated to make sure everyone got their AE's. That attitude pervades the company and it's unlikely you wouldn't cross paths with nearly everyone.

I probably wouldn't have drawn you out if you hadn't blasted your claim about knowing more than everyone else here, there are some pretty sharp cookies here that have been driving RC's before you were born - that is a fact. Most of us are glad to help everyone else but well . . . attitude is contagious, is yours worth catching?

[tipper]

Originally posted by Railman
Tipper quote:
"there are also some parts on the gt plus that are stronger then the graphite like the plastic shock towers the bend and don't ware cheap graphite are hard and stiff they brake easly alluminum bend and when u ben them back it weakend them. I modified my tranny to rrp, steering to mip, new engine, got all rpm parts best thing in my life I don't really like aluminum I like light durable plastic tat is cheap and strong. trust me I know more about the gt then all these guy I am the man to ask..."

Tipper,
If the "cheap graphite" parts were inferior to the RTR plastic ones, wouldn't you think the factory guys would run them? Don't you think the factory kits would be shipped with them as well? How much money you've spent on your GT has very little to do with how competetive your truck is. I have very little in the way of upgrades, but I bet mine works better.:D

As far as the aluminum parts, I agree.

I was going to ask your recomended setup for a smoothe loamy outdoor track with big jumps, but somehow I doubt you'd be of any help.:rolleyes:

Btw Tipper,
Why did you feel the need to flame everyone else that frequents this GT forum? I'll gaurantee you have a lot to learn before you know as much as a lot of guys on here.:confused
Joe

trust me from my experiance I have broken 3 graphite 1 plastic and bent 1 aluminum in the front but it all depends on the racer and the angel the cars fits mine have been hitting curbs very badley. and my dad is friends with mike reedy. I may be only 15 but been in rc for 5 years and loved every minute of it. and know since I found this place I am really starting to hate it because know I know there are some really bid dumb ass in here that put people down like railman and rocknbil u can still e-mail me to look at my truck that is for sale 450.00 less then I have put into it this month. seeya dev@dccnet.com

[Polk]

Tipper - Shutup, your annoying everyone

Everyone else - This is not what this forum is for, BE NICE!

:D

[ross]

Tipper,

I hope you never get a job with Associated typing thier orders and letters up. :D

[Nitrogt10]

Some people have told me that the OFNA linkage works better for the gt than the stock and i was wondering if that was true:confused:

[rocknbil]

Tipper - no one's putting you down, it's just that BS is not something people digest easily. If you can't keep your cool, maybe you should think before you hit submit.

[Railman]

Nitrogt10,
Yes, it works much better, because the sliding coupler is just a superior design. It doesn't bind up like the stock aluminum one can. The Losi setup is also very nice. It has sliders very similar to the Ofna's. The Losi throttle linkage kit comes with more parts, for about the same money. It's also easier to find at most LHS's. I run the Losi kit on mine & my sons. I've been running the Losi servo horns for about 6 years. Either of the two is a big improvement over stock.
Joe

[Railman]

Tipper,
I do not appreciate being called a dumb ass. I fail to see why you feel the need to call me one. Just what is it that I said that led you to this conclusion? You don't know me. Whenever I make suggestions on this board, I back it up with an explanation. Most of the people on this board so the same. You need to be more tolerant of others views, & in general, just grow up. This is a discussion board, & that's what we do...discuss! Just so you know, that is not the same as flaming.
Joe

[nitrodude_1]

hey guys I am new well new to this forum. I have had my gt for at least half a year maybe longer. I like this hobby it is alot of fun. I also think tipper is annoying. from what I have read

[Nitrogt10]

<A HREF="http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289594249"><IMG SRC="http://www.imagestation.com/images/is/community/this_album_button.gif" BORDER="0"></A>

[Nitrogt10]

those are pictures with the gt mostly stock but i am getting a lot of RPM parts and a OS 15 off tower :D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Nitrogt10
Some people have told me that the OFNA linkage works better for the gt than the stock...

Yeah I love the ofna setup, to elaborate the coupler he's talking about (I always called it a THINGY :D ) is longer and plastic which makes it VERY smooth. Somene had a pic, I'm off to look for you . . .

EDIT: HA HA! Here it is, it was baneort, except he's not using the Ofna brak linkage, that's pretty sweet too . . .

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128198#post1078748

[rocknbil]

Damn 10 min edit limit! . . that link is wrong . .

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1078748#post1078748

[Railman]

After going back & reading some of Tipper's older posts, he usually had good sound info. He just needs to hone his comunication skills, & be more tolerant to others ideas.

I remember some of my first posts on here, & I had a tendancy to say things that lit people up. Some people are just very sensitive to any ideas that don't coincide with their own. JUST MY $02!
Joe

[Pro3/nmt105]

What rear exaust hedar do you guys reccomend for the gt, I want to use it with a tr. I was thinking of getting this this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBGN7&P=M) trinity one, but it says its for picco and rossi engines so I dont know if itll fit an OS. I would be nice to find somthing cheaper though. Id perfer that it be available on tower.

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Get the Losi header. I ran a Trinity one on my Wasp. It was okay but it hung too low and put it self and the pipe less than 1/8" from the ground. After switching to the Losi header, clearance was pushed up to roughly 1/4".

[Pro3/nmt105]

Where can I get the Losi hedar? Horizon I guess? Im hoping it dosnt say losi on it, itll be bad enough just knowing a losi part is on my gt.:D :p :D

[NitroBoy24]

Hey,
Im gettin an ae gt rtr soon and just wanted to know what the best exhaust system is for associateds .15 that it comes w/rtr.
And tipper s.t.f.u (figure it out...)

[Tee]

I would put the diff with the bolt head facing like the instruction say. But if you think about it, it technically shouldn't matter because Associated also makes the TC3 which contains two ball diffs, which face opposite directions.

[chasmo]

the Mugen header for their gas truck fits nice and costs less than the losi you can get them at nitro house or maybe horizon

[rocknbil]

So who's racing this weekend?? I blew all the fallen Laurel leaves off the track yesterday ( this is the time of year for it . . UGH!) and have a very strict and disciplined regimen planned:

10 AM fire up nitros
11 AM rest arms, jump in pool
11:30 fire up nitros
12:30 jump in pool
1 PM eat
1:30 fire up nitros
3 PM jump in pool
3:30 PM nap
4:30 PM fire up nitros
6 PM eat

:D

Well that is the plan, but I will probably wind up doing handyman house chores all day . . . LOL!!!

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Tee
I would put the diff with the bolt head facing like the instruction say. But if you think about it, it technically shouldn't matter because Associated also makes the TC3 which contains two ball diffs, which face opposite directions.

It does matter on the GT though. With the TC3/NTC3, the rear diff is facing the same direction as that of the GT so acceleration keeps it tight. However it drives the rest of the car so the front end doesn't really have a chance to loosen. I've accidentally put the diff in backwards on the GT before and it did loosen on me after a few tanks of gas.

Pro3, yes Horizon has it and no it doesn't say Losi. When I got mine, I took it and got it powdercoated black to match my engine and pipe (can you say no more Losi green header?)

[Pro3/nmt105]

atm could you please get me a link Ive done like 6 searches and I cant find it. Mabey Ill sand it down and use some aluminum polish on it.

How does the Mugen header work compared to the losi header? It would be great if someone could give me link to that one too. Horizon's search feature isnt as good as towers.

Thanks

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
atm could you please get me a link Ive done like 6 searches and I cant find it. Mabey Ill sand it down and use some aluminum polish on it.

How does the Mugen header work compared to the losi header? It would be great if someone could give me link to that one too. Horizon's search feature isnt as good as towers.

Thanks

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA9347

Found by searching for "Losi manifold" in the advanced search.

There you go. If you have a Hobbytown USA in your area they should carry it also at the same price. That's where I got mine. it fits well. I would like to polish it though. Not sure how it will turn out. Let us know if you polish one :)

Steve

[Polk]

Argh!

Took GT to work today cause everyone wants to see it. A guy asks to drive it, i say okay cause he's my boss, and less than a minute after hes driving it he crashes it in a bloody kerb!!!!!!!! And breaks the f#^$% steering block!!!!!!! Damn HIM!!!!!

Another week out for me.

Oh, rebuilt shocks today, wow!

Shock oil on left of container is from 2 weeks ago when my cap busted of and i just did a quick refill, oil on the right is from over a month ago!!!


:eek: :eek: :eek:

[Railman]

Pro3,
Steve Pond runs the Mugen header, & is a big fan of it. He posted picts of it about a month or two ago, on the same topic. I don't have one, but it appears they are shorter than the curved ones, & may be a more optimum length from the start.
Joe

[Railman]

Atm,
It sounds like you have the most experience with puting the diff screw on the wrong side!:eek: I have never tried it, or had any issues with loosening, but I still don't get why it makes a differance. It all comes down to which diff half turns faster, & that can change just from turning one way vs the other, or which diff half slips (on the balls) before the other. I still don't see why Losi does theirs on the opposite side either. I guess it'll just remain a mystery to me, because I'm not going to experiment with switching like you did.:D

I was hoping for an explanation from somebody, but I guess it's too much like brain master bate'n. :rolleyes:
Joe

[rocknbil]

Arms . . tired . . . been playing swimming eating all day . . nap overdue . . .

Polk . . . *** did I tell you about CURBS man? :D


Railman . . . send an email to AE, they're pretty responsive most times and have reasons for recommending it, if you want a tech answer I say go to the source . . . hate to see a fellow racer losing sleep over a "why?" I know how that is . . .


A moment of silence for Polk's GT . . . and a trip to my parts box after my nap . . heh . . .

[ajouvenat]

People should practice their driving skills before buying hop ups, because if they aren't good drivers, no amount of aluminum or carbon will last long. Granted even interdemiate or advanced drivers can foul up sometimes, that doesn't mean the parts they upgraded to are crap just because they break apart after slamming into an object at 30Mph.

[Polk]

Already ordered parts rocknbil!!!!

Rest assured, that fat boss of mine is never touching the GT again!!!

Enjoy your nap!

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by baneonrt
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA9347

Found by searching for "Losi manifold" in the advanced search.

There you go. If you have a Hobbytown USA in your area they should carry it also at the same price. That's where I got mine. it fits well. I would like to polish it though. Not sure how it will turn out. Let us know if you polish one :)

Steve
is that the one for trucks? Just checking, it dosnt say its for trucks and dosnt look green in the pic.

[Nitrogt10]

what do you guys think of the reverse feul tank. It looks like it gives you more room to tune the engine and full the tank but is it worth $12.00
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT8&P=K

[Nitrogt10]

Heres a action pic of my car http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p4258db1784a00d819e21aa0c75ed2fa6/fb974031.jpg.orig.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Railman
Atm,
It sounds like you have the most experience with puting the diff screw on the wrong side!:eek:

Hey I never did it but that was my first guess when a few guys at the track had mysterious tranny slippage on their new FT GTs....turns out the guess was correct. :)

My theory is that when the diff gear spins and its balls contact the rings, the direction of the movement of the diff gear relative to the outdrives/rings if it is installed according to the manual will cause the thrust assembly to tighten. It might just be me, but maybe Losi's install of the thrust assembly is why we see so many toasted Losi diffs. :D

[Nitrogt10]

Here are some pics of my car (i hope it works)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p9bf5e2023203e9ac6c373edc56a40dcc/fb9740ba.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/pc592137c5578d076f93c2bbaaf840605/fb97403c.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/pd90a9377007c7c1ab3ce214aee7138c3/fb973e93.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p2556a9407b96831fe7d6b8517078a181/fb973b31.jpg.orig.jpg

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
is that the one for trucks? Just checking, it dosnt say its for trucks and dosnt look green in the pic.

Yep, it is for trucks. I have one right now on my GT with an OS TR engine. Ground clearance is good with it.

Steve

[Tee]

I suppose if there's some kind of friction in the thrust bearing system (bolt rubs washer, rings are pitted, balls flat, dirt, etc.) it could unwind or wind up, meaning it is overcoming the locking nut's attempt to keep the diff setting. But if it can do that, you have other problems I think. I think the first RC car racing was on an oval, so the diff bolt head on the right side would keep the diff from loosening.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by baneonrt
Yep, it is for trucks. I have one right now on my GT with an OS TR engine. Ground clearance is good with it.

Steve
Does it hit the body?

Has anybody tried the US post office shipping with horizon? It says it cant guarantee delivery times but it only costs $4. It seems kind of point less to pay $7 to use ground shipping on a $18 item.

[baneonrt]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Does it hit the body?

Has anybody tried the US post office shipping with horizon? It says it cant guarantee delivery times but it only costs $4. It seems kind of point less to pay $7 to use ground shipping on a $18 item.

Yes, it does hit the body, but it does not push it out with my Crowd Pleazer. So it's just barely touching the body. Well, the manifold does not hit the body, but my pipe does. I believe my old side exhaust engine also hit the body though.

Steve

[Railman]

Tee,
I thought about ovals, & agree that it would make sense for that, because the right wheel/diff half is normally spinning faster than the left diff half.

After pondering on it a while, I finally came up with one factor that could be the deciding one. Any one care to guess?



















It's that the left side of a GT is about 1 1/2 oz hevier than the right side. What that would tend to do is cause the rt wheel to spin more than the left. That would then tend to tighten the diff screw. It all comes down to which diff half is spinning faster than the other.
Joe

[nitrodude_1]

Nitrogt10 are those masher 2000's if are I have them on 2 I need to get a pic of my truck for you it is awsome. my gt pulls wheelies with the stock gears to 15 clutch bell 66 spur so damn fast to. I have a problem though I can't figure out my gt keeps on stalling it is not over heating. like when I have it of full throttle it will just die with a full tank and it will die if it is on full throttle then u put the breaks on and let it idel and then pull the throttle again it will die. it is not hot. need help I need to race. I have the picco xp.15 my hobby shop gave it to me for racing.

[dog8spam]

Does anyone elses rims strip out? The kingpins on the tire end of the CVDs have also been breaking on me. I didnt think it was physically possible that a plastic wheel could shear off a kingpin like that.
Does anyone know anything that would help this, like stronger rims or kingpins?


On a different note, what makes a good shock cap? The more I thought about it the less it made sense to buy aluminum ones (or whatever theyre made of). A little while back there was a debate on wheather Koshoyo or Associateds were better, what Im wondering is how can you tell? Does it really make a difference?

[Railman]

Dog8spam,
I use either piano/music wire, or 1/16" HSS drill bit pins. Both are far stronger than the stock drift pins. Another thing that helps a lot, is to change out the axle nuts now & then. If the locknut starts to loosen, you usually end up either binding the bearings up from overtightening, or end up with a loose nut, which results in stripping the rim. Breaking the stock drift pins is common if you don't change them frequently. They just flex/fatigue too much.

I run the Losi axle with the big alum washer on mine, but you can also add a bigger diameter x .022"+- thick washer in place of the std axle shims. You just need to make shure that you use 1 thin shim against the center race of the bearing, to keep the big washer from rubbing the bearing and or hub carrier.

I have also read that the Assoc rims hold up better than the Proline rims, but I can't say for shure. I did buy some Assoc rims today though, whereas I always ran Proline in the past.;)
Hope this helps,
Joe

[Nitrogt10]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
Nitrogt10 are those masher 2000's if are I have them on 2 I need to get a pic of my truck for you it is awsome. my gt pulls wheelies with the stock gears to 15 clutch bell 66 spur so damn fast to. I have a problem though I can't figure out my gt keeps on stalling it is not over heating. like when I have it of full throttle it will just die with a full tank and it will die if it is on full throttle then u put the breaks on and let it idel and then pull the throttle again it will die. it is not hot. need help I need to race. I have the picco xp.15 my hobby shop gave it to me for racing.
I would like to see some pics. And it sounds like you engine needs to be tunied . It could be that the engine is to lean at the high end but you said it doesnt get hot so it could be that it is to rich. So adjust the high end. And And when it dies at brake its because the carb is closing and stoping the air. So increase your idle. That might help.

[Tee]

A bunch of team drivers from AE are putting the B4 drive washer with the longer stub axle into place on the GT. What this does is make the pin function like Losi's axles. It makes the drive pin do only the driving. Previously, the pin also served duty in locating the wheel axially along the axles's length. You should always have drive pins on hand as they break often. I'm going to a semi big race this weekend (RC Pro #2 in Antioch, CA) and hopefully I'll get the part numbers and even scam some parts. :o

[Tee]

In my experience, the aluminum caps soon loose the anodizing, then the hole gets sloppy quite rapidly.

[nitrodude_1]

no nitro10gt it was my pipe it dosen't make enough pressure to feed the fuel to my new engine. so I bought the golden horizon s12 pipe best ever I will have pics in a week

[Nitrogt10]

I just got all my RPM Parts and my OS 15.
I cant wait to be driving with 1.2 hp(i had the AE engine before). but for the breck in it said for the first fuel tank leave the glow plug driver in. Should i do that or just take it off when the engine starts. :confused:

[nitrodude_1]

I just took my rear wheels off so if it got to lean it would not run away becasue u don't need the radio. I richened it so fuel was spitting out and I started it and took the igniter out. and just let it sit there and idel rich for 3 tanks then I grabed my radio and drove ir around still reilly ritch for 1 tank leaned it out a 1/8 turn, did it again, did it again, did it again. till it was back to the factory settings. don't run the tank dry just run it so it gets very low and shut it off and sit for 1/2 hour and when I was driving it for the first couple tank I only had it on 1/4 throttle and on thye last 2 tanks I had it on 1/2 throttle and started giving big burst of throttle. took me 7 tanks to break it in but there was no chance with something going wrong

[nitrodude_1]

now I have a question for all u I rebuilt and cleaned my engine and didn't replace anything but then I put it back together it was very hard to crank over when it got to top dead center. it was almost like my engine was brand new again.

[Polk]

Right, heres a plan...

What if I take out my springs and put fuel tubing in place of them? Just so I can 'slam' my ride! Just for fun!

What are some other cool things I could do? Another cool thing that might be fun is putting some Tmaxx or Savage shocks on it!!!

Anyways....speak.

[dog8spam]

Try taking off those little black four-sided triangle things on the ends of the rear shocks and screwing the shocks directly into the A-arm.

[Polk]

Wat would that do?

[dog8spam]

It'll lower its stance without having to take apart the shocks.

[offroadcrazy01]

How much does the weights inside the MIP clutch affect engine temp? Is it harder to tune your engine? It seems like my engine ran hotter with the weights in. Is it just me?

[Railman]

ofroadcrazy,
I wouldn't think so, unless you were running a big clutch bell. If it's the std 15, the weights won't make it hotter, & may even make it run a tad cooler. Are you running #2 with the shoes trailing the flywheel pins?

More than likely, the higher temps has to do with a weather change. If you tune it when hot out, & then later run when it cools down, it will make it run leaner & hot. Humidity changes also affect tuning.
Joe

[offroadcrazy01]

Yea I' m running the number 2 set -up going to try again today and it was the stock bell and it was hot 98deg outside yesterday thanks railman did you sell a car on e-bay some time ago a 7.5and a xxx-nt if it was you they nice,the engine I ran was a OS-TR

[nitrodude_1]

weights do affect the heat I just redid my clutch and I don't put weights in. I have it #1 setting it works the best.

[nad138]

This must have been asked a million times and I'd like to make it 1M and 1:) (don't have time to read through thousands of posts) What engine do you guys use on your GT ? I just got me 1 also (bought from a factory driver) and won 2nd on my first outing with this truck. What bugs me is, I'm always getting smoked with the other better drivers on the straight and am wanting to upgrade my .12 cv-r to a more stronger one. Is there really a huge difference between a rotary carb and a slide one ? I race 1/8 and MT and going down to a 1/10 scale is a lot of fun (cheaper than maintaining a 1/8). Thanks in advance on your feedback.

[Polk]

YAY!

Parts arrived today!! :D:D:D

Went to the BMX track and got some major air again! Weeee.....

Few little probs...

When I gas it, it slides around and donuts. I know that this is a slipper adjusment, but Im not sure which way.....

Also at high speed the car drifts a lot, Cant seem to fix it with steering trims, camber, toe in adjustment maybe? Right now my front tires point in a bit.....

Thanks!

[offroadcrazy01]

Some body please tell me how to temp my engine maybe I 'm doing it wrong I run 2 or 3 laps then bring the truck to me and take the highest temp I can get and I richen it or lean from there keep it 210 to 230.

[offroadcrazy01]

nad138
If you want a better engine here are some of the best from what I seen around Mugen mt12,wasp,the os-tr seems to be ok it's cheaper then the rest of them 92.00 bucks at tower hobbies but from what I seen the mugen and wasp are the best just my 2 cent good luck

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
....When I gas it, it slides around and donuts. I know that this is a slipper adjusment, but Im not sure which way.....
Also at high speed the car drifts a lot,.....
Thanks!

OK loosen the slipper nut to get more slip, tighten for less. Bring the wrench for the slipper to the track with you, you need to do this on the track. Loosen it up, then gas it from a dead stop. The slipper should slip for about 3-6 feet (1-2m) before you hear it kick in fully. If it's slipping too much it will get very hot very fast at high speeds, so make sure it DOES lock in after 6 feet or so. I think you'll like the results.

When you say "drifts" . . . is it bouncing or do the wheels literally seem to flop left and right, what's going on?

How tight is your servo saver?
Have you gotten the high torque servo yet?


OFROADCRAZY - It sounds like you're going about it right, except check it at 5 or 6 laps too, and that range you mentioned is average for a .12, .15's go higher. Leaning it will always warm it up, enriching should bring the temp down, but don't tune by temp alone - use the sound, performance, and check out how much smke you get out of corners too.

Sorry nad don't have time to answer your Q if you don't have time to look.




:D

LOL

That's an open Q, I'll only speak for myself, any OS is a dependable engine, period, and less expensive than most. The Trinity Picco kicks butt, I have one in my GT, wife's got an OS, got two backup OS's resting in after run oil. :D

Heard good things about the Mugen, Novarossi, Sirio . . . .

[nad138]

Thanks offroadcrazy.

Thanks also rocknbil, would like to get more tracktime than spend majority of it searching :p Now if only a .21 engine is a drop in on a GT.....

[Nitrogt10]

Here are some pictures of my gt with my new engine and some other hop ups
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL197/1344899/2557471/31037654.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL197/1344899/2557471/31037649.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL197/1344899/2557471/31037127.jpg

[nitrodude_1]

if u want a .12 here are my favorite the picco xp.12, rb c12, nova rossi .12 long stroke siro .12 turbo I don't really like the os or ofna but they ar ok I see alot of guy at the track with them. if i did pick one I would go with the os.12 cv-r, ofnas motor is ok never really tryed it.

if u want just a back yard bash so some really good power go with a picco xp.15 or a rb c15 they are really great engine and yes nad there is a company that make a .21 convertion kit it in new era models.

also if any one want any spare parts for there tool box I have a forum with used parts on I am selling they have all been on my truck not for a long time but long enough I have only 1 broken part and it was the from arm but I fixed that with extra strengh high bond appoxy. I will trade them all for a micro rs4 and cover the left over prive of the rs4 with cash.

here is the forum
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1120030#post1120030

[nitrodude_1]

Originally posted by Nitrogt10
Here are some pictures of my gt with my new engine and some other hop ups
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL197/1344899/2557471/31037654.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL197/1344899/2557471/31037649.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL197/1344899/2557471/31037127.jpg

that looks like a nice back yard bash I want to get pics having a hard time what engine u using and the forys are really stiff eh. mine are to they are blue in front and rear. with tons of spacer

[The King]

here is the latest body for my GT that I painted, what do you all think?

[N2OSupra]

I NEED MORE STEERING.....in the front

should i put some weights, lower the front arms or new tires....im out of clues on what to do:(

[nitrodude_1]

ya my truck turns really wide I also think there mite not be enought weight there well the front wheels are always 1 inch off the ground to from the power more weight in the front or what

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil


When you say "drifts" . . . is it bouncing or do the wheels literally seem to flop left and right, what's going on?

How tight is your servo saver?
Have you gotten the high torque servo yet?




Me servo saver is good...

Its drifts in the back end at speed, and eventually spins out if Im not careful....The back end kind of...slides out a bit, these tirres have pleeeennnttty of grip left on them..hmm

Havent got the servo yet, but I know that will help it go in a straight line a lot better!!!

Nitrodude_1...Nice gas tank handle!!!!

:cool:

[nitrodude_1]

polk that is not my pic my truck looks nothing like that I have a silver body with blue flames I have a gas tank handel like that but I was just qouteing nitrogt10 that is his truck well mine is close to that but I have to sell my parts please please somebody buy them I don't even have a price

[Railman]

Polk,
Check your rear hinge pins. They can be bent if you jump it hard enough. You wouldn't do that though...would ya? If bent, it's drastically mismatch the rear toe in from side to side, causing your symtoms.
Joe

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by N2OSupra
I NEED MORE STEERING.....in the front

Browse around here man lots of ideas withoutr sticking clunky old weights up front. :D

First thing is a tip I got from Railman, it's called drag brake. Adjust your brakes so the wheels don't spin free when at neutral. NOT A LOT - just the slightest brake pressure. What it does when you lift off the gas it shifts the weight forward slightly.

What kind of tires? Pro-Line Edge 95's work great.

Strong servo? Make sure you're holding the corner.

Fiddle with oil wieghts and springs.

Polk your rears could be expanding too much to, maybe heavier foams?

I am so tired gotta run

[nitrodude_1]

time for the clunky weights

[N2OSupra]

i already have clunky weights:( :p

[nitrodude_1]

I just added 10 oz of fishing weights

[nitrodude_1]

somebody take a look at my gt parts for sale I am taking prices they also include
wheels and tires
bell crank
rear bulkhead
front a-arms
rear a-arms
disc break
2.60:1 diff drive rings
drive gear
top drive gear
reciver plate
ae tuned pipe looks new
old gas tank
ae.15 back plate with screws
ae.15 carb with parts no filter
ae.15 crank shaft
ae.15 pull start
ae.15 1 way bearing
ae.15 engine case
ae.15 engine bearings
ae.15 piston sleeve
ae.15 engine head
old flywheel
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=136893

e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com please I need to sell parts

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
I just added 10 oz of fishing weights

I have 2 oz plus a transponder and its done the job. Try getting 20 degree caster blocks and setting the front up for 0 degrees of camber and 2 degrees of toe out. If you still need more, get softer springs up front and get rid of some of the rear toe in.

[Polk]

Originally posted by Railman
Polk,
Check your rear hinge pins. They can be bent if you jump it hard enough. You wouldn't do that though...would ya? If bent, it's drastically mismatch the rear toe in from side to side, causing your symtoms.
Joe

Umm......well..........errr.......well.......you see......ummmmm....yeah

They are kinda bent, I replaced rear arms with RPM ones yesterday, and well, a bit bent....

I am using quite 'light' foams on this set of tires rock...maybe....The balllon up nice though!!

Thanks Guys...

[N2OSupra]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I have 2 oz plus a transponder and its done the job. Try getting 20 degree caster blocks and setting the front up for 0 degrees of camber and 2 degrees of toe out. If you still need more, get softer springs up front and get rid of some of the rear toe in.

how did you mount the transponder??? I have a dummy transponder....maybe that will work?

[atm92484_3]

I have it right at the base of my windsheild to have it as far forward as possible and as low as possible. A dummy transponder will do the same thing (I broke down and bought one for practices when the AMB system wasn't on).

[dog8spam]

When I gas it, it slides around and donuts. I know that this is a slipper adjusment, but Im not sure which way.....

I've had this happen before and its not the slipper. The only way a truck can spin out off the line with the wheels pointing forward is if one wheel is spinning faster than the other. You could have a rear wheel starting to strip or a broken kingpin. The car can still work half the time with a stripped wheel, so that could be problem.

[N2OSupra]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I have it right at the base of my windsheild to have it as far forward as possible and as low as possible. A dummy transponder will do the same thing (I broke down and bought one for practices when the AMB system wasn't on).


so you have it mounted at the base of your windshield on the body????hmmm i always thought that would never help with anything, i thought it was just a place to mount the transponder:p
you learn something new everyday:)

[Railman]

For the most part, traction, front or rear, has to do with weight balance, & how it changes as the car rolls, & the suspension compresses. If you wnt more traction in the front, you need to get more weight on the front. This can be done in many ways:

1)stiffen the rear spring rate (shifts more weight to front when
chassis rolls)
2)increase rear dampning (similar to above, but dampning needs
to stay balanced with springs to keep overall balaance)
3)use some drag brake (braking shifts, or rocks, weight to
front...rockinbill!)
4)change camber ball stud location in rear to stiffen roll resistance
(use upper inside instead of std lower inside...may lose some rear traction)
5)lay down front shocks by moving top in on tower. (This will
soften the spring rate, allowing more weight to shift to front
entering turns, & when chassis rolls. Will also lift front end less
under acceleration, & not push as much on power)
6)use softer front springs. (results in more weigh shifted to front
as chassis rolls... similar to laying down shocks, but may need
more dampning with stiffer spring)
7)install 1/8" or so internal limiters in front shocks. (This will limit
how much the front end lifts, give more on power steering, &
help keep traction rolls to a minimum)
8)Use lower degree castor blocks. (This is not what the tuning
manual says, but is acepted as a general rule with most I talk to.
I have run from 15 to 25 deg, & have settled on 25. It makes the
steering more reactive to steering input, but isn't as stable in the
rough. 25 deg also results in less bump steer. Bump steer is
generally a bad thing for seering consistancy)
9) run longer wheel base ( shifts more weight to front, but slows
steering by making truck longer)
10)use lighter battery pack (similar to making wheelbase longer,
in that more weight shiifts to front. Regan Leblanc (Saxton's
mechanic) used to run 4 cell packs on Saxton's truck for this
reason, & is primarily why he didn't need to add weight to the
front end...that's my best guess anyway)
10) add about 3/4 to 1 1/2 oz to front ( most put it in bulkhead, but I prefer in front of servo, so as to not botton the front as bad on jumps, & to keep the weight more central overall)

This list is by no means all inclusive, but it's a start. In the end it's all about weight balance, & how it changes as you go through a turn. It also helps to match the tires to the type of terrain your running on. I rarely have trouble with steering traction, it's usually the rear that gives out on me. That's where I'm shifting weight to for my next race.
Joe

[Railman]

dog8spam,
See Polk's last post. It was the hinge pins. The items you mentioned would also do it though.;)
Joe

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Railman
....3)use some drag brake (braking shifts, or rocks, weight to
front...rockinbill!)....

Heh . . . I've just never had to add weight, high speed or low, I always hear about the GT pushing or understeer at low speed and have never had that problem! I guess if all else fails *sigh* ugly chunks of lead for you. :D

[Floop]

Has anyone ever spiked their tires? If so, what did you use as the spikes and how did you secure them in?

I got this evil notion last night that I am gonna drive screws or something thru my old wornout tires and see what happens. Should be a blast.:D

[rocknbil]

Ashamed to admit . . yeeeeessss . . . on an electric . . . and not only did it not help anything, the nails I used had big heads (cut-off roofing nails) and I thought they'd hold, pushed through an old set of Dirt Hawgs from the inside, held in by the foams, but they wound up popping out and flying dangerously all over the place.

A month later one of them wound up in my full-scale's tire, discovered on the way out the door as I was late for work (Murphy's Law again.)

DOH! It was a waste of time and a big mistake but hey . . . it was fun tryin' . . . lol

[nitrodude_1]

floop it will cost u about 20.00 if you wana to it right. you get small bolts with a big head on and 2 metal washer for th inside of the tire and outside. make sure the bolts are fine thread and have a sharp pointy head on and they have like a 1/2 inch sticking out the tire. then u take a nut and some locktight and put some locktight on and then tighten up the nut I put 20 on each tire. but it looks cool and works great for ice and snow

e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com for parts I have a bag of parts I will give away cheap includes wheels ae.15 parts all the main parts that could break 50-55.00

[nitrodude_1]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1123131#post1123131

[rocknbil]

nitrodude I suggest you list it on ebay if you're so hot to sell it, most of us already have a GT and if someone's looking to buy they're going to go browse the For Sale forum anyway.

[nitrodude_1]

also I found the a easy way to get more weight in the front. if you have a spare reciver box glue the bottom on so there is not were air can leak out except were the crystal gose in and fill iw up with liquid let that sets or just buy tons of the smallest fishing weight and fill it up. I got 5oz on my airtronic reciver box. my handeling has never been better:cool:

[Nitrogt10]

Heres another forum. Its cool and we need some more people.
http://danrc10man.conforums.com/index.cgi

[rocknbil]

Hmm. New member pointing to another forum. Methinks we don't see faith in this one. LOL
DanDeRC10man . . . . by any chance are you the Dan from the Rogue Valley?

[Polk]

Dammit...

Destroyed 2 wheels now. Do you know how much these f uck en things cost me everytime? About $30 USD for 2 here....Or I can order em from tower and wait...and...anddddd waiiittt..

What appears to be happening is that the bolt is working loose of the axle after about a tank (which it never did before) then Pssssssschhhhhhhhhhhhhkrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrcccckkkkkkkk kkkkkkkk there goes the inside of the wheel....:( :( :( :( :( :( :(

*sigh*

Im already $400 NZD in debt to my mom for parts.......(i use her credit card)


I think im gonna cry

:(

[Polk]

Hmm.....reading back a few pages i see others have this prob as well..........

:(:(:(:(:(:(

[nitrodude_1]

you are going crazy you are going crazy I tryed to run my truck with a broken flywheel and a tank of 2 stroke gas. but it didn't work so I had to break into my grandmas house and take my gas and it still didn't work it runs but only on idel and smoke alot but there is after run oil in there so that is why and my engine is not running right it is making funny sound and as soon as I move the throttle up it dies and it has alot of air in the fuel line I am thinking that is why it is not working. I am out of gas to becasue it is all over my carpet I droped the bottle and I didn't know I droped it and there is nothing left. No gas and car make Jared go crazy. woobldeydo hehe

[nitrodude_1]

what problem is that

[nitrodude_1]

Originally posted by Polk
Dammit...

Destroyed 2 wheels now. Do you know how much these f uck en things cost me everytime? About $30 USD for 2 here....Or I can order em from tower and wait...and...anddddd waiiittt..

What appears to be happening is that the bolt is working loose of the axle after about a tank (which it never did before) then Pssssssschhhhhhhhhhhhhkrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrcccckkkkkkkk kkkkkkkk there goes the inside of the wheel....:( :( :( :( :( :( :(

*sigh*

Im already $400 NZD in debt to my mom for parts.......(i use her credit card)


I think im gonna cry

:(

cheak the threads on your locknut or axles they could be stripped that is what happened with me well not stripped just from taking them on and off so many time they work out and got think and lossened off each time so I cot new locknuts and axles and work fine

[Polk]

Anyone got a link for some new rear locknuts on tower? I cant find them....

Thanks

[Nitrogt10]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Hmm. New member pointing to another forum. Methinks we don't see faith in this one. LOL
DanDeRC10man . . . . by any chance are you the Dan from the Rogue Valley?

This is a nice forum but some others have more info

[rocknbil]

So I guess you're not the Dan from the Rogue Valley. :D

[Insidious]

Hey i have a question:
on my GT RTR, i have the high-speed needle set all the way to the maximum lean setting (according to Associated's website) and also the low-speed screw. But i still get TONS of blue smoke at idle, low-speed and full throttle. I dont have a temp gauge, so im uncomfortable with leaning my engine out more b/c i dont know how hot it gets. After one run, i put a drop of water on the engine head, and it barely even boiled...if im not mistaken, i think the water drioplet should stay on for no less than 3 seconds?
Should i lean out my engine more? the idle sounds really rough..

[Railman]

Polk,
Do this: http://www.rc10gthobby.com/b4_axel_assembly.htm

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/rc_axels.htm
It's easy to do, & will help your problem with stripped wheels. The Losi axles do the same thing. The biggest factor is the big alum thrust washer. It helps support the rim much better, & reduces strippage. The wider stance is also a bonus. At around $12 total (axles, & alum washers), it's worth well it. I don't know how it works out for you with shipping & all though.

You can do something similar without buying new axles. If you find some 3/8"+- x .022" thick x 3/16"id washers, you can accompish something close. What I did on my son's was find a washer with the proper thickness, & od, & drill the center to 3/16". Are your axles 3/16, or 14"?
Let me know if I can help walk you through this.
Joe

[RCNitroDude999]

I've been runnin my GT for a couple years now with an o.s. 12 motor, but now that im getting more serious into the hobby, I am looking for more speed and power, any suggestions on what kind of motor i should get?

Also, what kind of shocks work best, such as type, springs, and shock oil, for running on a track with plenty of jumps?:cool:

[RCNitroDude999]

I like this body, wish i could find more like this.....

[atm92484_3]

Check out any of the Wasp .12 engines from Team Orion. They're all rebadged Picco .12s and from my experience are pretty good truck engines.

Its hard to set a truck up for a track just to suit the jumps. The track I run at has a few places where you get some air. My set-up is as follows (btw they're the FT shocks with aluminum caps):

Front:
silver springs
30wt oil
#1 pistons
internal downstop limiters setting the arms just below level
2oz of nose weight plus transponder

Rear:
blue springs
30wt oil
#2 pistons
internal downstop limiters setting the CVD bones just below level

[Nitrogt10]

the OS CV-R 15 is a cheap powerful engine

[rc10gtroller]

i there any rims like these that will work on the gt??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEW48&P=0

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNW94&P=0

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDG71&P=0

[Polk]

Thanks Railman, but I have a $400 debt to my Mom right now (i use her credit card) So i cant really afford anything right now!!

I use 3/16 axles. Im thinking of threadlocking the nuts on and in place just until some new ones come??

Thanks

[Railman]

Polk,
Try a local hardware store, or fastener supply house. The threads aren't metric, but a fastener house should still have nuts in the inch sizing...over here, our hardware stores stock metric. Take the GT nuts (and or axles) with you to match them up. While your there, try to find a bigger axle washer (X.020" thick) too. The bigger washers help a lot. You just need to eliminate two of the smaller shims ot use the bigger washer.
Joe

[Polk]

Originally posted by rc10gtroller
i there any rims like these that will work on the gt??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEW48&P=0

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNW94&P=0

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDG71&P=0

Sorry man but all those wheels are for touring cars.
RPM has similar rims for ST's though. Here ya go:
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/wheels/truck/index.htm



Originally posted by RCNitroDude999
I like this body, wish i could find more like this.....

Atomik sells pre painted bodies that are awsome, Ive got on myself and they come pre-painted, and pre-cut! Samr price as a clear body + paint. RC10GT Bodies: http://www.atomikrc.com/rcten.html


:D

[rc10gtroller]

i new they were for touring cars i was wondering if anybody made some like that for st's!

[GT Freak]

hello everyone, new to the forums, but not to r/c. i have a gt with a os 12 in it, its he RTR version, and im wanting to know a few things :

1: Why are the 3/16th axles better?
2: do boost bottels help or r they for looks?
3: can u race a RTR GT??






4: whats with all the hub bub about this MONSTER GT truck??

[rc10gtroller]

Boost bottles are a waste of money. You can definately race a gt rtr, just make sure you have the right tires for the track. I have never heard of 3/16 axles being better than anythin else!!

[Pro3/nmt105]

3/16th axels are better because they allow you to use larger bearings than you can use with 1/4th axels and the larger bearings hold up better.

Boost bottles are usless dont bother with them.

You could race a rtr+ gt but the engine might be a little slow compared to the competition but otherwise you got the same truck as people with team and ft gts minus the graphite titanium and aluminum parts. The engine is very fast for a rtr engine though.

[Twist 2 Go]

I just bought the rtr+ kit as well as the stuff to convert it over to a non pull start engine. I went this route as the lhs had no ft kits available and I need to race this weekend for the point series. I also have a used truck which has all the graphite, titanium, and hard shocks I'm swapping over as well. I plan on running the kit engine this weekend so I'll let ya know how it runs. Depending on the track, lack of speed might not be such a bad thing. Remember the Tortise and the Hare story? Those big hp engines are good but only if you can get it to the ground. And just in case I'm wrong, I have a MT12 and rex pipe from my NTC3 as backup.:D

[GT Freak]

how can a o.s .12cvx b slow??

[Twist 2 Go]

The rtr+ kit doesn't have an OS engine it has the ThunderTiger .15

[GT Freak]

well, since i got it as a roller, i added the o.s mill.

what im wanting to know is: what rims will fit on my RTR gt?? I like those yellow ones i c on the t3 trucks. but dont know if they have them out for my ride :confused:

[rocknbil]

Any wheels for a T3 will also fit a GT, they have the same axles.

I like my 1/4"s, never had any trouble with 'em. Wife's has 3/16", no worries there either except her 3/16" axles can't wear my rims.

[Pro3/nmt105]

One thing I just dont understand about off-road racers is why everyone uses yellow rims!!! Im the only person at my track that Ive ever seen using white rims on any type of car. I dont get it whats so great about yellow rims!!! I personally think white rims look much cooler and go with just about any paint job (except yellow and red) better than yellow. anyone wanna fill me in?:confused: :rolleyes: :D :p

[Grifter]

Hey guys,
I finally got into Nitro and bought an On-Road car. Well, of course now I want an Off-Road Nitro as well. I've been looking at the Savage for awhile, but lately I was thinking about the GT. The thing is, I dont think I will be Racing it due to the lack of Tracks in my area, so do you guys think it would make a good Basher? I was always shaky about buying a "Racing" Truck to Bash with. Of course, that would allow me to Race it if the opportunity ever came. I was thinking about the RTR Plus with a Fantom .12 or .15 in it.

So what are your guys thoughts.

Thanks!

[atm92484_3]

No idea Pro3. I just get white ones all the time also. Dunno, maybe its because Losis always have colored wheels and I don't want people to think I'm driving a Losi. :cool:

Grifter, the GT is a great basher as long as you don't plan on doing any 4 wheeling or driving in thicker grass. With bigger tires, the GT goes fine in regular length grass and it still jumps really well.

[Grifter]

Thanks.
I have an Electric Rustler, and I always thought Ground Clearence was a problem, but it really seems like a good Truck for the Money.

I was looking into the TripleX-NT Sport(forgive me for saying that name) for awhile as well, but now I'm hearing that the Diffs explode.:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
One thing I just dont understand about off-road racers is why everyone uses yellow rims!!!.....

That's easy. Yellow is faster.
No it's not, blue is faster.

LOL OKAY OKAY . . . I think it has to do with a slighly increased visibility, anything you can do to more accurately determine your RC's position and attitude will give you an edge on reaction time. White wheels tend to take on the color of the dirt, Yellow and neon wheels remain more visible. That's also why some fliers make one wingtip of their planes green, the other red, when it gets off in the distance it helps figure out where you're at.

Grifter the GT is plenty tough for scuffling around, just stay off the roads. Curbs are unforgiving. As for the NT tranny, most of the time it's a stripped diff bolt because the inexperienced overtighten it or leave it too loose. If the diff is too loose on a GT it will also slip and melt the diff gear.

[Grifter]

Thanks rocknbil.

If I were to put on some Masher Tires would I have to change the Spur Gear or Clucthbell?

Thanks!

[rocknbil]

Larger diameter tires? That equates to a higher final ratio, so if you wanted to keep the same ratio you'd have to gear down, but I'm going to say no, you don't "have" to. I'd be more concerned about the higher center of gravity affecting the handling.

While we're on it - the spur/clutchbell combo is one you watch out for, it's easy to go too large on the spur and it hits the suspension mount, or too small and the engine won't slide back far enough for the clutchbell to reach. You have to expirament around a little . . .

[Grifter]

Ok, thanks!

[nitrodude_1]

I am working on a micro I bought the stock car put it together throught away everything I was going to build and I have started to make a micro gt it is awsome aluminum chassis norvel o.o61 motor. off road wheels I will get pics as soon as I finish not finished yet though still working on the chassis. chevy sirra body. 1st of its kind 1oz gas tank. I have started a car to I only have pics of the car now.

[nitroice0069]

Hey I have a RC10GT and I just bought progressive suspension shock ( the ones with the piggy back resiovers and the think shaft and all that stuff) for $40 and i was wondering what you think about them and if it was worth it. Thanks

JamEs

[nitrodude_1]

I don't think the piggy back resorves are really worth it they are just a hastle to build ehrn it comes to rebuild time

[Wallis Racing]

The reservoirs themselves work AWESOME with the stock shock bodies, but the progressive shocks as a whole, are kind of a let down. a mate of mine bought a full set of the shocks, and the woyld leak out the shafts, and very soon after purchasing them, he ended up just using the reservoirs on his stock factory team shocks. One of my other mates has since just purchased a set of MIP shafts, MIP blue seal O-rings and the progressive suspensions reservoirs(not the whole shocks) and his shocks are now wicked. he has long times between rebuilds, and bleeding the shocks when rebuilding them is also easier. and he always seems to have the smoothest shocks out of the 3 of us. so thats what i plan to do. i have the MIP shafts and seals, i just need to get some reservoirs.

But thats JMHO

anyways,
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[GT Freak]

MAN m i PI#$ed off! FINALLY got my gt running decent, and the mill locks up!! GGGGRRRRRRRRRRR So I think its the P/S and find that not it. So i tear the mill (os.12cvx(s) ) down. Somehow, a shaving got in it, but nothings hurt! In the process, i break a screw head off!! :eek: GGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!! So, i gave it to a friend to have him remove the rest of the screw(if possible). If he does, fine, if not, ill just gut whats left, and get 2 new mills to replace it!
:D

[Railman]

I assume the broken screw is either a head screw, or backplate/pullstart screw. Either way, it's no biggie. Just remove the rest of the screws, remove the part, & then grab the screw shank with channel locks, or pair of pliars. The only time it's a big problem is when the screw snap's off inside a threaded hole. Then you need to drill it out, & retap with a bigger screw. This is your biggest threat of a disaster.
Joe

[Henry GG]

Hello, I need a little help. My shock has leaked away all of its oil. Several people have said it is the seal. I opened up my shock, and, I don't know where the seal is, or even what one looks like. Where can I get spare seals?
I love this truck! THis is my first nitro and i'm in love!

[rocknbil]

Henry the seals are two rubber O-rings at the bottom of the inside of the shock body. If you remove the lower shock mount and slide the shaft out the top of the body, all AE kits come with a plastic tool to slide in from the bottom, push against the plastic snap-clip, pop the whole thing out, and replace the O-rings and other goodies in there.

When you refill though, the most common cause of leakage is overfilling. If you fill it too much, when the shaft slides up and displaces the oil, the internal pressure gets too high and forces the oil right out of the seals and they leak again even when almost new. The correct way to fill them is to almost fill them completely, then push the shfat in so the piston almost comes to the top, allow all excess to overflow, and THEN put on the cap.

Shocks are to control the speed at which the shock moves, not provide suspension, that is what springs are for.

PS - if you don't have a manual, download ANY AE manual from teamassociated.com, it will have exploded views of the shocks and how to properly assemble and dissasemble them, they are identical in design from touring car to MT.

[Polk]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=138374


:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:

[GT Freak]

Well, got gt1 back up and running! Now for gt2.... picked up a
few thing for her:
new o.s 12 mill
new rear arm mounts
new throttle linkage!

Items needed:
new tires!
a TRS: throttle return spring!

hope to get no.2 running in a 2 month period of time!

[nitrodude_1]

what are good street tires to get

[Henry GG]

Originally posted by Henry GG
Hello, I need a little help. My shock has leaked away all of its oil. Several people have said it is the seal. I opened up my shock, and, I don't know where the seal is, or even what one looks like. Where can I get spare seals?
I love this truck! THis is my first nitro and i'm in love!
Originally posted by rockinbil
When you refill though, the most common cause of leakage is overfilling
Do you think that my shocks were over filled at the factory, or are my o-rings bad?
Thanks for the help! If my seals are bad, where can I get more?

[GT Freak]

NEWZZZ FLASH!!! GT2 is almost runnable! got it down to:
header/pipe
receiver

break in, then have fun!:D

now im working on a 3rd gt, with the old tub chassis! so, grand total of nitro cars is:
2 gt's
2 nds's
and now a 3rd gt

Grand totsl of 5 nitro cars:D

and they say this is nt addicting LOLOL:rolleyes:

[GT Freak]

heres a list of everything on my gts:

GT1: non running :(
aritocraft hs-402x throttle servo.
airtronics94635 sterring servo RTR rear shocks/t3 front
OFNAS throttle linkage
os.12 cvx(s) mill
rustler tires all around
multi colored fuel line
RR spur/clutchbell combo
RPM rims
proline body
stock 2 shoe flywheel
tmaxx red rear springs
rear facing tank
30 wt oil in all




GT2: running:)
futaba receiver and 3003 throttle servo
traxxas 2015 sterring
AE 3-peice rims/proline dirt hawgs rear/stock RTR fronts
RR metal spur/clutch
tmass header/stock pipe
same engine as above
purple ball ends all around
forward tank
proline chevy body
RTR front shocks/T3 rears
30 wt oil in all

hows THAT ?? :D

any suggestions, ideas will b helpful to me!

[Dh293]

Hey i got my RC10GT RTR today and a friend of mine and i worked on it for a real long time wasnt running right we took out restrictor plate . the main problems were that the brakes would drag then we would adjust and they wouldnt work enought then it idled badly when i let go of throttle it would gradually pick up speed until idle was decently fast. Its running real rich at the moment i'v eonly done about 2 1/2 tanks through it and was wondering what i should do now and in the future to keep my engine in nice condition for power and reliability......


Thanks for your advice in advance :D

[nitrodude_1]

some people don't agree with me but it take about 1/2 a gallon before it is completle broken in but what I do is let it idel for 4 tanks but sitting there spitting out piles of oil and gas and thenfor the last 4 tanks I let it drive around 2 tanks 1/4 throttle doing 1 sec bust to 1/2 throttle then the last 2 tanks I drive it between 1/4 and 1/2 and give it big burst of full throttle and that works for me so. I think it works better but what do I know right

[rocknbil]

nitrodude - agree with all but the idle part.

Originally posted by Henry GG
Do you think that my shocks were over filled at the factory, or are my o-rings bad?...

Henry it's possible but not likely how old? More likely it's dirt and dust gets into the seals and on the shafts and causes leaking. I like to wrap the shocks in one layer of horsewrap, it keeps all the dust out. Go to any co-op or where they sell animal supplies and get Co-Flex brand horsewrap, it's a stretchy self-sticking cloth that you can cut and wrap the shocks in, and throw away when it gets dirty. All the other brands are too thick, Co-Flex is abotu the thickness of light linen. It costs about 3 bucks a 50' roll and comes in a variety of cool colors. :D

Anyway the shock rebuild kit will set you back all of 4 bucks:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2593&P=7

Here's the tool you'll need to get the clips out, a whopping 95 cents:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2583&P=7

DO NOT use anything but this tool to operate on your shocks, you'll scratch the inside of the shock body and then it will leak for sure.

[nitrodude_1]

how do you post pics on here when u don't have a web site or anything like that

[Henry GG]

It's easy. Just remember that the file formats have to be jpg jpeg and bmp and it has to be under 61 K.

[nitrodude_1]

ok here is a pic of my old truck since then it looks alot better I bought this body thougt

[nitrodude_1]

how u make them bigger then that though but that was only 6kb

[dog8spam]

Heres a pic of the body I just finished. I just ran it today and the paint is coming off lexan and chipping off. I think I may have painted it too thick but wasnt sure.

[dog8spam]

Ive been having trouble getting my GT started. It will run fine then just crank when I try to re-start it. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Also yall know that you can put the shock on the otther side of the tower like on the B4, you dont even have to modify any parts. I will put up a pic when I get the camera.

[Henry GG]

That's a cool bumper! Where'd ya get that dog?

Dog, that exact thing happened to me too. I replaced my plug and it ran beautifully after that.

[GT Freak]

well, after buying a new mill for my other gt, yesterday, i forgot to put a throttle servo screw back in... fired it up and it took off well i lost all throttle so i got it to flip ove but by the time i got there it was fried. broke the connecting rod. DANNNGGG IT! that shot those plans all to heck to get 2 gt's running.:mad: Now i gotta use the new mill i got to replacethe one i killed!:mad: talk about being STUPID!!!!!

[nitrodude_1]

same thing happened to me almost I took my truck down for a engine tune at the local hobby shop right well they leaned it to extrem. they guy who tuned it was driving it around on full throttle tuning it and well after he said it was perfect I took it to the part to try it out and ran it for a few mins and it stalled and keped on stalling they said it was to lean but and so I tryed to start up my engine yesterday and it inly runs on 1/4 throttle now and any higher it stalls. engine is 2 months old and has run for about 10 tanks

[GT Freak]

what are the startup setting for the o.s 12cvx(s) and what do i do about fuel not gerting to the carb?? HELP! this is peeving me off something bad!!:mad:

[rocknbil]

GT Freak -
http://www.osengines.com/manuals/12cv-cv-x-manual.pdf

You need to learn to be patient with yourself and take a breath, nitro is not a hobby for the impatient.

nitrodude_1 - Have you made any attempt to enrich it since then? How about a new glow plug?

If you can get it to run, you can get it to run better. You can't tune your engine one day and hope to run it the next without resetting your HSN.

Open (enrich) the HSN 1/2 turn and try running it, then after it warms up you can lean it out just a little.

[Surgeon General]

Tuned pipe people:

I have a Team Associated tuned pipe, but not that little nozzle screw thing that the tube to the fuel tank connects to. The one from the RTR pipe doesn't fit.

Where can I get one?

[nitrodude_1]

any body wana buy a os cv rx .12 100.00

[Twist 2 Go]

the hose from tank to the pipe is just slipped into the hole in the pipe about 3/8". if you want to add a nipple for a cleaner installation, your lhs should have one or be able to order them

[nitrodude_1]

need to sell

[Polk]

Everyone downloaded my GT video?

http://www.******.net/member/polk

[The King]

Polk, That was one BAD AZZ video:cool:

[GT Freak]

Finally got my gt to run, got alomst 3 tanks thru it. hey, its a start!
:)

[Polk]

:D Thanks man!

Took GT out today, ugh, what a waste of time. Ran all funny for a while, like it was to lean but temp gauge crapped out on me again so i dunno. Then it flamed out and wouldnt start up again so i took out the glow plug and some dirt fell in the engine cause ive run outta compressed air..great, bloody great.

That was the end of my day! Ive taken engine all apart now and cleaned with WD-40 and coated with ARO...


:o

[nitrodude_1]

weird well i sohuld have my going in 2 weeks need a gas tank back orders on them and I need a piston and sleeve for my xp.15 and they are back ordered for 2 months. crap eh I really need to sell that motor though. it is not mine other wise I would use it right. I have to sell it

[dog8spam]

That's a cool bumper! Where'd ya get that dog?

I made it, all my friends have them. Ive got a buch sitting in my garage half finished I wanted to sell on eBay, I jsut havent had the time lately to work on them.

[hurikane85]

i have a rc10gt plus an i have it really jus for practicing an messin around with, and i keep my t3 strictly for racing, but id like to get into nitro racing, an look into a factory team gt,not that my plus isnt race worthy, id jus like to keep it as my truck to mess wit an have the factory team gt, to strictly race but i didnt know if you guys heard if a/e is comin out wit a updated gt before i fork out the dough an a day later, ooooo the new GT!

[Twist 2 Go]

I don't think you'll see a new updtaed Gt for at least another year. If you already have a RTR+ kit, it doesn't need much to convert to FT level. If ya want, I'll put together a list for you as this is the route I went when I switched to an AE gas truck. It actually ended up being cheaper this way ( at least in my case.)

[nitrodude_1]

Originally posted by hurikane85
i have a rc10gt plus an i have it really jus for practicing an messin around with, and i keep my t3 strictly for racing, but id like to get into nitro racing, an look into a factory team gt,not that my plus isnt race worthy, id jus like to keep it as my truck to mess wit an have the factory team gt, to strictly race but i didnt know if you guys heard if a/e is comin out wit a updated gt before i fork out the dough an a day later, ooooo the new GT!

Ya there will be a new gt in like the next year I have heard but nothing that much diffrent I am told just a diffrent design and a couple duffrent parts nothing u can upgrade to. but ya I wounld not worry about the ft gt and use your rtr plus get a new engine like a os and just buy all the
rpm parts
lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hing pin kit
a temp gauge
and what ever else u want it looks cool to
that is what I did in 3 months I have my my gt into almost pure hopups. it is worth the money then u can build your own to and sell or keep the parts. I am sticking with the stock shock towers becasue they bend and are a lot harder to break becasue they are so flexible. but the grapgite have the advantage to

here is every parts I have
all rpm
gh s12 pipe
lusford titanium turnbuckles
mx3 u need it
robinson racing tranny and spur and clutchbell
digital servos
losi threader shock xxx-nt
I have a couple factory parts
not many though
xp.15 engine

[Budman_222]

I was reading some of the threads about the 3/8 X 1/4 bearings being a weak spot on the rear axles on the GT and I have to agree with that. T he 3/8 X 3/16 isn't a whole lot better. I have an older GT with the 1/4 axels but I didn't want to change them because they are the same as my RC10T and it allows me to swap wheels back and forth. I found RPM makes a hub carrier and bearing kit that uses a 1/4 or 3/16 X 1/2 bearing. I put them on and feel a lot better about things staying together. cost about $25.00...well worth the money.


Bud

[caseymou]

I posted this on the rc10 site but mabye someone will have an idea here...

I have a problem with the dynamite .12s in one of my GT's. It will run with the exhaust tube to gas tank unhooked but when I hook it up it wants to suck fuel into the pipe. I have replaced the pipe and gas tank gut the problem remains. The only way I can get it to run with the pipe hooked up is to put my finger over the end of the pipe at short intervals. I assume this pressurizes the pipe which in turn pressurizes the fuel tank. Anyone have any ideas?

It seems that the muffler is running under a negative pressure and that is why fuel is being sucked into it. Why? The muffler should have positive pressure only, right?

[Railman]

Caseymou,
Did you ever pull the pipe & look at the piston through the exhaust port like I said?
Joe

[1tuffRC10]

casey, what kind of pipe? or just get the new tank!

[Henry GG]

Hello again; I still need help on my shock situation. While I was telling my dad about my situation with my O-Rings being bad (which is probably the case) he suggested using this stuff called Magic Lube. It is a "Teflon Based lubricant/sealant applications: Motors, O-Rings, gaskets, bearings, water filters" Will it work if I coat my O-Rings in it? I'm cheap and wanna avoid the 10 bux it'll cost me at the tower for a shock rebuild kit. (Hmmmmm.... I haven't checked my lhs yet though...)

[nitrodude_1]

just buy gasket maker

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Henry GG
....wanna avoid the 10 bux it'll cost me at the tower for a shock rebuild kit.......

Heh . . see previous page, even with the tool it will come to 5 bucks, but yeah, shock rebuild kits are in almost every LHS on earth . . . doubt the goo will work but you could try it . . .

[Polk]

'Cept ones down 'ere..........:D

[caseymou]

Railman,

Are you following me? J/K
I haven't had time to check out anything physically. Spent all day at work and all evening at school - with a stop in between to the hobby store. I will check out tonight. I have replaced the pipe and fuel tank - neither made any difference.

[Railman]

Henry GG,
An Assoc. eight O-ring set cost about $2. You can re-use the old retainer if you just flip it over, so that the belly faces the o-ring. It will preload the o-ring some, but at least the edge that catches on the groove will still be sharp, & will stay in place. It's very important to remove any scratches in the shock shafts. That's what damages the o-rings. Just use some #600 to #1,100 paper to remove scratches, & polish it out. If you use 600, use some that's been used already, so as to dull the grit a little. The o-ring lube you mentioned sounds like it would work well, as long as you don't over do it to the point of getting too much into the shock oil. That results in inconsistent shock damping.
Joe

[chickenmobilin]

Hey guys , looking for a new engine to replace the stock .15.
I do not race , so legal engines need not apply!
I am looking for something fast , powerful , simply , BALLISTIC!

[1tuffRC10]

Casey, Try raising the loop of pressure line to a point above the tank. Just never seen that problem before. Is your fuel line running close to the head or some other hot point?

[1tuffRC10]

Chicken, Orion Wasp is the fastest thing I've seen so far. It's speed is crazy. It is a little hard to break in and tune but after about 10 tanks that thing will scream!

[nitrodude_1]

chiken it is all on your price range fastest thing I have seen it the rossi pixi outlaw and those are nice engine. but if you guys need any parts I have to sell all these I have to many of them
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=139442

[atm92484_3]

Chicken, I second the Wasp engines. They're basically rebadged Piccos. I have the .12 RE offroad and I only need to take it to around 200 on 30% nitro to get the speed/power I need for racing.

[GT Freak]

wish i could find another mill like my os 12, i love those
:)

[dave mac]

I am a rookie to this stuff, and am finishing my first kit FtRC10GT
My question is I am having problems with my throttle and brake linkage. When I hit my throttle pull trigger forward, the arm(throttle) moves towards the engine, It seems to me it should be moviing away for the engine, opening up the carb, what am I missing here.

So when I pull the trigger it actually is closing (the already closed)
carb.

Something seems backwords, maybe on my pistol??????????
I have M-8

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

THnks
Dave MAc:)

[nitrodude_1]

ya it is your radio it might be set on reverse for your throttle u have to change it to normal it is hard to tell u u should go to a local hobby shop

[illbreakit]

Hey, srry if this has been posted before, but has anyone put the new traxxas 2.5 in a GT??? How's it hold up? I currently have a modded ae.15(ported,polished with Odonell head) and want more. My LHS only has AE and TRX engine parts in stock, so I figure I might as well get what he has there. Any words of wisdom???????

[dave mac]

Nitro Dude you hit it right on the money, doubled checked the manual and figured out the settings, were wrong, I appreciate the help.

THanks
Dave Mac

[nitrodude_1]

no problem same thing happened to me

[dog8spam]

Never start your car when the throtlle is reversed. I run two models on the same radio and one is reversed, so Ive done it quite a few times.

Heres the pics I said I would post;

[dave mac]

My flywhell is loose, no grip, the engine has compresion, I can tell by turning the clutch nut plus it is new . I have dissasembled it but cannot see what is wrong. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

THanks
Dave Mac

[dave mac]

I have a os cv .12 .The manual shows one silver spacer for the fly whell, (Im wondering because I saw the dynamit engine digram) they suggest two spacers would that solve the problem????????????????

THansk for any suggestions
Dave Mac

[nitrodude_1]

so u need the associated adapter right. the flywheel is probally stripped u can us washers to but they will not work well. best thing it to get a new flywheel and use 2 thin washere for each side and tighten the nut as tight as u can. I have stripped 3 till I did it that way works awsome. can't furt to try beside the wallet right

[shepdog264]

ok this may seem like a neeb question dut what car would win in a race :
rct10gt rtr+
losi xxxnt
hpi nitro mt
duratrax maximum st pro

all stock

[Surgeon General]

Originally posted by shepdog264
ok this may seem like a neeb question dut what car would win in a race :
rct10gt rtr+
losi xxxnt
hpi nitro mt
duratrax maximum st pro

all stock

Which ever has the best setup and driver

[Polk]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Never start your car when the throtlle is reversed. I run two models on the same radio and one is reversed, so Ive done it quite a few times.

Heres the pics I said I would post;

What would that give us?

[Railman]

"What would that give us?"
Answer:
A very bent up front end! Look at the front bumper, & chassis nose. It's at 90 deg. The kickup looks to be a bit much also.
Joe

[dave mac]

Nitro dude

Forgive me with the rookie questions, but what is the ascociate adabter, the kit came with a flywheel, and collet, I first cut off the crank, then put the spacer and then colet then the flywheel, then the clutch nut, Im thinking it might be the crank is not short enough for the clutch nut, not to tighten down, although the crank is shorter then the two prongs at the end of the flywheel.

If you dont mind maybe you could explain what you did with more detail, didnt quite follow you:)

I have tried to tighten that thing three times currently on my fourth time, with no luck, any input would be gratly appreciated.

Here is a quick easy one for what happens if you run the car and forget to take off the glow plug igniter??????


THanks
Dave Mac:cool:

[dave mac]

Nitro dude

Forgive me with the rookie questions, but what is the ascociate adabter, the kit came with a flywheel, and collet, I first cut off the crank, then put the spacer and then colet then the flywheel, then the clutch nut, Im thinking it might be the crank is not short enough for the clutch nut, not to tighten down, although the crank is shorter then the two prongs at the end of the flywheel.

If you dont mind maybe you could explain what you did with more detail, didnt quite follow you:)

I have tried to tighten that thing three times currently on my fourth time, with no luck, any input would be gratly appreciated.

Here is a quick easy one for what happens if you run the car and forget to take off the glow plug igniter??????


THanks
Dave Mac:cool: