Associated RC10GT Forum v7.0

[nitrodude_1]

it is the adapter for the end of the flywheel to put the clutchbell on. u might have to cut the crank down to make the adapter tighter it is the nut pretty much but take sone thing spacers and put then between the flywheel and nut and it should work if not I am hooped. l8ter

[1tuffRC10]

dave mac, In my experiences with the GT, what is wore out is the collet. The brass cone shaped thing that slides over the crank and fits inside the flywheel. Anytime the flywheel slips it is a good idea to replace the collet. It is soft and usually wears out when it slips on the crank. Not the flywheel! But you could have messed it up as well. I run a OS and use only one shim behind the collet and flywheel. As someone said, be sure the nut will thread up far enough to push the flywheel against the collet. BTW Use a drop of locktite on the collet, flywheel and nut. It's just a little insurance that it stays tight

[Surgeon General]

Do the RPM rear suspension mounts come with aluminium screws?

Becuase I break those a lot, and if the suspension mount itself doesn't break, it will snap the head off the chassis screws.

If they have aluminium screws, I just might buy several sets of the associated ones and plenty of screws. :(

[Twist 2 Go]

You shouldn't use an aluminum screw for the suspension arm mounts.

[1tuffRC10]

SG, If you get some blind nuts and trim them down a little, you can use those in the front bolt of the arm mounts. I have done this and never had a problem. Use a touch of locktite and they are there! Use the longer bolt in the rear and you can use the supplied nuts in the middle.

[dave mac]

Nitrodude

So far so good, I cut the crank aliitle bit more and placed the spacers as you said and so far so good knock on wood. Now the bloody thing wont start:confused:

When I took the head off, the whole sleeve came off but went back just fine ande ran good for 5 min or so, but the last it ran for a minute extremly high rpm then quit. Mind you I have less then 7 minutes on this engine.

Nitrodue appreciate your help

THanks
Dave Mac

[dave mac]

1tuffrc

Its a new collet, and flywheel, Im hoping its not that, thatnks for the tip with the locktight.

Dave Mac:)

[dog8spam]

A very bent up front end! Look at the front bumper, & chassis nose. It's at 90 deg. The kickup looks to be a bit much also.

The kickup is not 90 I can garuntee you, it is normal, (I just replaced it after a bad wreck), but what I was trying to show you is the shocks. I put mine on the back of the tower so they would sit lower.

What may have thrown you off is the blacktub kickup plate that I have the bumber mounted on.

[Railman]

dog8spam,
Nice job! I can't believe I missed the shock repositioning. I run mine on the back side, but i shifted my tower forward about 1/8" to get it to work by fabricating a 1/8" alum pc in the shape of the lower tower, & mounted it in the orig tower location. I then notched an old white tower around the bulkhead so as to mount on the front side of the alum repalcement pc. This was enough to get the shocks at an acceptable angle, & give enough cleaance for the steering linkage. I'll try to post a pict when I get my borrowed camera back. My son loaned it without asking!

Doesn't your steering rod hit the shock end when you turn & compress the suspension?
Joe

[dog8spam]

Not enough to really do anything, it just barely rubs the spring.

[Polk]

I just got a new radio (Futaba 2PEKA FM) off ebay and my servos and stuff seem to be faster!?!?!

:confused:

[dave mac]

What Happens if you put to much afterrun oil in your engine, yesterday it ran great, then I put a bunch of afterrun oil in it today hardly any compession and wont start.

any thaughts

Thanks
Dave Mac

[offroadcrazy01]

try a brand new plug and try again,make sure your setting are right on your engine,to much afterrun cant hurt your engine maybe you ran it too hot

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by dave mac
What Happens if you put to much afterrun oil in your engine....

Nothing, except a well-lubed and moisture-protected engine. :D

Actually OS engines recommends at least a teaspoon, enough so it actually is hard to start next time. Do you have a pullstart? With a starter box it shouldn't be difficult - never is for me - but if it's a pullstart it may take a bit to get burnable fuel into the engine. Try enriching it a half a turn just to get it started, a few extra cranks before putting the glow starter on, that should do the trick.

[dave mac]

Thanks guys for the info sharing, I took it aprt and cleaned it , and now bingo compression, and it runs great.

THanks
Dave mac

[offroadcrazy01]

Do you guys ever run m3 edge tires in the front of your truck how do they feel compared to the m2 edge tires how does the truck handle.Is there a big diffrence or a small diffrence

[bikejunkie]

Have any of you put a .21 in a rc10 gt. My ae .15 is shot and I have a new nova rossi .21. Will it work or destroy the truck?

[Polk]

Check this thread out bikejunkie:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=140315

[MonsterBlazer#1]

any day now im getting my rc10gt in the mail
any hints for building?
whats the first thing i should upgrade?
its got upgraded,
*flywheel
*clutch
*bell gear
*shock towers
*disc brake
and its all bearings

any help would b apppreciated!:)

[MonsterBlazer#1]

its also got team shockies:cool:
and its all nevr been used
NIP/NIB

[dog8spam]

Monster Bazer- I would get a box of #4 internal lock ring washers, jam nylon insert 4-40 nuts, and lots of extra screws. I put longer screws everywhere with nylon nuts in the end and where I cant put nuts I put lock washers. Internals hold better but externals look cooler. On the bottom of the chassis I put flatheads which never strip no matter how scratched up they are. If you start loosing screws you can even get lock washers for countersunk screws. Also put a #8 split lock ring and high speed steel axle pin in each rear wheel, this may save your rims some day.
Last thing and I'll shutup, run your car tilll the rear bearings need replaced then get the RPM 1/2" carriers and put some heavy double shielded bearings in it from a hardware catalauge.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ok thanks for the tips

[GT Freak]

thinking of selling my gt, dont run it much since im working on other projects, like 2 nds's. a dsT, 4 microsiers,a n-pede! [COLOR=deeppink]too many projects, not enough time! :D

[nitrodude_1]

lets see it send me some pics and u sell anything seprate

[GT Freak]

mwilson478@comcast.net Would like to trade it for a t3 if possible

[dog8spam]

Got any rear tires?

[dave mac]

I have a FT Team Pipi, And a CV enginge, any pointers on porting the header and even cutting it shorter, will I get added power.

Thanks
Dave Mac

[offroadcrazy01]

I had a cv it's a great motor I would not port it the most I would do is get a od head take this time to learn how to tune get a temp gun if you tune it right the motor will have all the power you need

[MonsterBlazer#1]

where can i get these"high speed steel axle pin's"?
wots the parts numbers...etc any links or help would be great!

[1tuffRC10]

MB1, I'm not sure of the part no. but the Losi bag of pins has two solid pins in it. They are a little long and smaller diameter but do not break like the hollow ones. Some people use a body pin and cut a piece off to use for the wheel pins.

[Railman]

Monsterblazer,
You cut the axle pins from HS 1/16" drill bits, or you can use piano/music wire. Both are stronger than the hollow drift pins. The down side is that the pins can be lost easier when you remove the wheels, because they don't spring outward in the axle like the stock drift pins.
Joe

[MonsterBlazer#1]

why not use a bit of lock tite?

thanks ill use that method:cool:

[dog8spam]

Locktite doesnt increase a pins resistance to shearing.

[atm92484_3]

But it will keep it from sliding out.

[nitrodude_1]

has anyone tryed the proline lugnut T rear wheels with the r3 compound and is the r3 compund better then the m3 u think

[Railman]

Locktite helps, but it's not a cure. They still come loose. It's not a big deal though.

I think my next set will be a wire size bit, just over 1/16" (.0625"). The next two sizes are #52 (.0635"), & # 51 (.0670").
Joe

[MonsterBlazer#1]

mine are brand newies, stil havent run my gt yet, ill rip out the stock ones and put a 10mm peice of 1/16 HSS drill bit in ther?

[rc10gtroller]

There place where i race is starting the off-road again and i need to get my gt ready. I have the older RTR. I am hopion to get the factory team gt for christmas but racing season starts the first sunday in october. I raced last year for my first year and won alot of c mains. Now that im more experienced im gettin more competitve.Here is a list of the parts im planning to get for my gt for racing.

Titanium turnbuckles
Non pullstart mount(upgraded from pullstart last year never got a non pull mount yet)
New flywheel
MIP clutch
and Factory team shocks

Cand i get the whole set of factory team shocks or do i have to buy like the front and back seperate.

And is this the entire set of turnbuckles for the gt.Heres the link

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSF80&P=0

[rc10gtroller]

i was also thinking about cvd's but i would have to get mew rims and tires and thats gettin pretty expensive

[nitrodude_1]

nice list:D

[nitrodude_1]

ok rc10gtroller I will let u in on a secret. Stick with the stock flywheels best to get anything else causes Ideling problems, The associated turnbuckles lick #$%^ get the lunsford racing turnbuckles and hing pin kit best for the buck. Factory team shocks are no diffrent then the rtr plus shocks if I were u get the xxx-nt shock smooth like a babys ass hehe. non pull start mount is just money coming out of your pocket keep the pull start on only thing on there I would keep is the MIP 4-1 clutch and dempending on what engine u have get a boost bottle kit they are nice, and for cvd's go with the mip shiney they are strong and light weight and thing else just ask I have all that stuff and all the rpm parts to couple extra thing to I didn't like the graphite parts just not for me I will stick to plastic cheap and flexible right also the lunsford turnbuckles and hingpin are lifetime waranty the associated ones aren't they may be blue but are crappy to me they break to.

[rc10gtroller]

if i get the MIP 4 in one clutch i need a new flywheel right? and i was thinkning about gettin the losi shocks because someone mentioned that before. Where can i get the losi shocks?

[rc10gtroller]

no wait i dont need a new flywheel for the clutch. Is this the entire set of turnbuckles and hinge pins for the gt?heres the link

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY755&P=0

[nitrodude_1]

no u don't need a new flywheel you just have to cut the pins down right and yes it is u just need to buy the 1 1/8 turnbuckle for the steering linkage. Alao by the rpm ball cups work great and for the settings on the clutch go with the #1 setting I found it is the best nice for idel and fast acceleration. Losi shocks are the best they are smooth and threaded but I might try the b4 shocks they are pretty good I hear I might get those for back up

[Surgeon General]

Originally posted by rc10gtroller
if i get the MIP 4 in one clutch i need a new flywheel right? and i was thinkning about gettin the losi shocks because someone mentioned that before. Where can i get the losi shocks?

How close are the pins to being flush with the back of your flywheel? You'll need to hammer them in even more so they're about half their current lenght for the MIP clutch.

And yeah, I have a MIP lightweight flywheel. One minute the car sits still at idle, and the next minute you have to hold the brake on constantly. :confused: And you'll probably have to re-tune your idle settings.

edit: Yeah, or you can just cut the pins. I never thought of that :o

[Surgeon General]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
on the clutch go with the #1 setting I found it is the best nice for idel and fast acceleration.

That reminded me of the three-point mechanical speed contoller on my old MT-10S :o

[MonsterBlazer#1]

so if i get

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXY755&P=0

im set right?...for the turn buckles.
i got me the 4-n-1 clutch
wot else?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Surgeon General
.... You'll need to hammer them in even more so they're about half their current lenght for the MIP clutch.....

NO don't use a hammer use a vise or a clamp or something! :D If you flatten out the ends the clutch shoes won't move freely.

And as for what else . . . I'd say drive it and see what you think you'd need. I never could tell what the big whoop was about the MIP clutch, drove with the stock one for almost a year while my wife's GT had the MIP, I put one on because everyone says I needed it, and it's not that big of a difference as far as I can tell . . . my point is see what you think you need before pushing out the dough . . .

[Surgeon General]

Originally posted by rocknbil
NO don't use a hammer use a vise or a clamp or something! :D If you flatten out the ends the clutch shoes won't move freely.


I love you guys. I learn something new every day.

The pins that came with the MIP flywheel didn't flatten at all though :o

[DirtRules]

What exactly will the 4-n-1 clutch help?

[Railman]

If set up properly, it will slip less, idle better, idlen without creeping, push less, the clutch bell will not get as hot, clutch bearings will hold up better due to less heat, & spur gears will be less apt to strip. They are also adjustable. In the stock form, they can be set up 4 different ways to maximize the engines power, & suit a particular driving style. They are also cheaper than setting up a 4 shoe assoc clutch. All that for $11!
No I don't work for MIP, I just like the clutch! This is of course just my personal experience with the clutch. Rokinbil's opinion will vary. :D
Joe

[Polk]

DAMMIT!

Took me gt out today and somehow my idler shaft has stripped itself! How did this happen :confused:

The odd thing is, it was running fine the other day, so Its stripped its self magicaly sitting on my desk!?!

[MonsterBlazer#1]

*KARMA*

thats for the pathetic jokes against auzzies. :D :cool:

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, think steel. But put the titanium top shaft in as well. I still use the stock diff gear and haven't had a gearbox problem all year. Just about wore out the top shaft but it's good enough. LOL

Yea what railman said! Haven't been here enough lately. They got me racing electrics now. Flashlights LOL Would you believe an Evader?

[nitrodude_1]

don't use a vice on the fly wheels cut the pins off, works way better and alot faster. I did that on my flywheel
Get all the
RPM Parts
Losi XXX-NT Shocks
Lunsford Racing Titanium TurnBuckle and Hingpin kit
Lunsford Racing Titanium screw kit
Get Titanium pivot balls
Mip cvs's
Mip ball bearing steering kit
Super diff rebuild kit
mip 4-1 clutch
Leave the rest stock like all the diff gears, shock tower, flywheel, front axles trust me u can buy all that factory stuff and blue parts for no performance diffrences or u can save your money and buy tires

[dog8spam]

Why titanium hinge pins? Its impossable for them to break because the arms are weaker . Also titanium screws? What advantage is there?

[Polk]

Hmmmmm, Im bottoming out on jumps so much that the flywheel is hitting the ground and shutting of the engine. I know this is happeneing cause there is dirt stuck in the flywheel.

What do I need to change in the rear? Right now im using 50wt shock oil and blue springs In the rear. I really dont want to change that much cause my GT is jumping perfect right now! Nice and level.

Suggestions?

[nitrodude_1]

I titanium screws becasue they will be the last screws u every buy and titanium turnbuckles so they don't bend and break polk my set up is 35wt with blue in the rear and gold in the front works great what flywheel u using to

[Surgeon General]

Have any of you guys ever broken a head off a titanium chassis screw? Becuase when I put all those super-strong RPM suspension parts on my GT, the heads just snap off the chassis screws. And I know that it's impossible to make these cars indestructible.

Now I just keep many spare chassis screws and rear suspension mounts, since that's the cheapest and weakest part of the rear suspension on mine :o

[1tuffRC10]

polk, chassis flex will do the same thing. The spur will bind so tight on the clutch bell that it stops everything. You may want to try a heavy flywheel. It won't help the flex but it will help keep the engine turning.

nitrodude, I hate to bust your bubble but the titanium stuff breaks and bends too. I've bent a pin so far this year and didn't break the stock arm. Broke the lower shock eye! Broke a rear arm a couple of weeks ago but didn't bend the pin. The arm broke because it hit a piece of rebar that held the pipe down. Didn't change the arm till a couple of races later

surgeongeneral, stay off the boards! What are you hitting to break the screws off? Is it the rear arm mount screws? I've got a cure for that! The rear arm mounts are the only RPM suspension parts I use.

[HOBBYSHOPDUDE]

I just finished my newest FTGT,,<lol... #5 that runs>,,

All the Rpm goodies, the full inventory of RR tranny and diff parts,,,.357 and 358 airtronics, a bunch Hardcore parts and I had an extra Sirio 5 port Turbo sitting around.(not legal for a roar race....but makes the club races fun!)

The Sirio propels this truck so hard, that it is almost uncontrollable, I used the Mugen exhaust manifold and factory team pipe. My buddy's were laughing when I showed up at the track with the new baby,,,,sporting Proline Bowties at all four corners...they asked if I ran out of tire money!! The addition of 2 oz of nose weight with the front bowties..made the truck turn on a dime and I easily TQ'ed and won the Main...... One thing is certain...more rear exhaust engines will find there way into my GT's..maybe a Micheal Salven 5 port for club racin and a mugen mr12 for roar racin!

[nitrodude_1]

sergeon I have never stripped or broken a head of my screws since I got the titanium

1tuff I know they can bend and break to but not as easley most likley the ballcups will just release from the pivot balls that is what happens to me when I take bif jumps or crash into the side of the curb hingpins are nice to becasue they don't bend as easly as the steel ones same with the steel turnbuckles

[Henry GG]

Hi guys! I need a little help. When I drive my GT + around for a while, every now and then it stops, and the wheels won't move. If I give the throttle a quick stab, it just sits there. If I go up and roll it back and forth and jiggle my car, it will eventually start moving. WHy is this?

I did 3 summer-saults today :D

[dog8spam]

Hi guys! I need a little help. When I drive my GT + around for a while, every now and then it stops, and the wheels won't move. If I give the throttle a quick stab, it just sits there. If I go up and roll it back and forth and jiggle my car, it will eventually start moving. WHy is this?

Probably gravel suck somewhere in the car, it can be on the clutch or in the wheels hitting the A-Arms.

Hmmmmm, Im bottoming out on jumps so much that the flywheel is hitting the ground and shutting of the engine. I know this is happeneing cause there is dirt stuck in the flywheel

Make sure you have the right flywheel for your motor, dont have a Pull-Start wheel with a Non-PS motor mount.

[dog8spam]

Titanium turnbuckles I can see buying, but I still dont think its possible to bend or break even a stock hindge pin.

[1tuffRC10]

dog8spam, I bent the titanium hinge pin and didn't break the arm. Still using the same arm!

[Surgeon General]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
surgeongeneral, stay off the boards! What are you hitting to break the screws off? Is it the rear arm mount screws? I've got a cure for that! The rear arm mounts are the only RPM suspension parts I use.

Cartwheeling mostly. It had a few close encounters with curbs that broke them too :o

Yeah, the rear arm mount screws. I'm afraid of buying the RPM ones, becuase it's the screws that keep breaking on me. Mabey I've just been unlucky :confused:

[nad138]

To the guys using a rear exhaust engines in their GTs, I need some help on the exhaust. I read that the Losi A-9347 header works perfect. Would appreciate it if someone could post a pic on how the complete exhaust system is mounted on the ride. Thanks.

[1tuffRC10]

nad, it works great. I just drilled another hole for the pipe bracket. Counter sunk it a little with a dremel and done! A lot of the good racers are cutting some off the end of the header. Haven't tried it yet with a rear exhaust. Had too much power already!

[nitrodude_1]

I am going to get pics for you guys alot of them I also built a track today with a showel and a rake works great got jumps tight turns and molgles

[Wallis Racing]

Yeah dog8spam,
1tuffRC10 is right. i got the Lunsford ti hingepin and kingpin set and all the hingepins are bent... maybe its just me... or maybe you'll have to wait a week or 2 till the release of the new Juls Creations movie co-staring me, and you can see what our GT's go through...;)

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[MonsterBlazer#1]

look forward to it.

do u guys recon its worth getting the rpm 1/2 inch rear bearing carriers for my gt?

[1tuffRC10]

MB1, they will last forever! But they change the geometry of the truck. Some one on here used the B3 spindles I believe to bring the front hight down to match the rear with the oversized carriers.

Wallis, haven't seen u here lately but I haven't been on here much either. LOL What is the name of the movie and will it be available here in the states?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

1tuffrc10,

so if i bought these things what will be the benefits?
and what is involved to make it the normal jeo again?

thanks,
sori if i seem a little"thick" or"dence" im just new to rc10gt

thanks alot for ya help...:D

[1tuffRC10]

I ran those carriers for a year or so without making any other changes to the truck. Someone pointed out to me about the difference in height but I never changed a thing. The 1/2 inch bearings will last a long time. I never wore out a set. To get the geo back I've read that you use B3 spindles somehow in the front. Not really sure how it was done. I read about it either on this forum or on Starting Grid. RPM products are great for bashing and some parts I still use for racing, but not the arms or bearing carriers. Just the rear arm mounts and body mounts for now. I've tried the rear bulkhead, it's okay but again it is a little different so the geo changes again. I've tried all kinds of stuff with my GT and seem to always go back to something very near the stock set up. I have over 4 gallons of fuel ran through my "new" truck for this year and haven't broken anything other than 1 rear arm (totally my fault, got stuck on pipe and kept going till I hit the rebar that held the pipe down) and a few shock ends. BTW I can't drive! But I have a lot of fun. It's more fun to run a truck than to work on it!

[dog8spam]

I would agree, get the 1/2 bearings. I wouldnt worry about changing anything up front, I just adjusted the ride height a little.

Does anyone know what fuel tubing is made of? I have been having a hard time finding the right stuff in McMaster Carr.

[RC10's]

If strength is your main concern go for the 1/2" bearings, and dont worry about the geometry or ride height, unless your a serious racer, because otherwise your probably wont notice a difference.

I believe silicone is made of mostly silicone??? Kinda like Britnney Spears right???

[Wallis Racing]

1tuffRC10,
yeah, i havent been around much either, been to busy GTin' :D

Juls Creations are all internet downloadable movies. for those who havent seen any before, here are my favorite 2:

EMT Conspiracy (http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/downloads/movies/Artists/JC/emtconspiracy-h.mpg)- 33.8mb, 2.34min

Rally Evolution (http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/downloads/movies/Artists/JC/rallyevocomp.mpg)- 5.5mb, 47seconds.

although they only seem short, they like, i dunno, keep u wanting more or sumthing, and because they are all choriographed to the music, and arent repetitive you dont get bored of them. the one he his working on now, GT Moshings, will be about 4min 30sec to the tune of Crystal Method- Name of the Game and should be done by the end of the week, hopefuly.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[MonsterBlazer#1]

wot is the size of the front wheel nuts??

[dog8spam]

Theyre 4-40 but dont replace the nylon nuts with metal because when you clip something and the nut strips out it keeps other things from breaking.



I believe silicone is made of mostly silicone??? Kinda like Britnney Spears right???

Just on Tower Ive seen silicon, tygon, and nylon, but the closest I have found is vacum PVC and is over a dollar a foot. There is also many types of nylon, pvc, and tygon.

[nitrodude_1]

dude britnney spears is hot and that silicon really helps to. oh ya also what roar legal motor should I get for my gtprice range 175 - 200 bux

[MonsterBlazer#1]

just put my gt togeather...
very happy with the truck but so un happy with the shocks, they suk a s$
ther ral bad but i dont race so im just gona get lock rings and that'll b it:p

[rocknbil]

What's wrong with the shocks?

im just gona get lock rings and that'll b it

You mean the spacers? Yeah I never liked that "improvement" much either, but you can get AE shock clamps. The trick is to not overtighten them so that the holes strip, and they'll never slide up the shock body on you.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

What's wrong with the shocks?

bill they just feel flimseyand not smooth, they have no balloon thingies in the caps..and in my manual it states there are no ballony things(in no such technical tersm:p )
i like the look of the shocks but i just dont like the performace....:(

anyways thats just my oppinion..

[fuzzy2133]

if you take time and care when building the shocks they will perform very good and be free of any air pockets. took me the third time of changing shock oils to find out I was working too fast.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

i know how to put em ta geather and i did em good but they just dont stand up tp ofna quality shocks:o

[nitrodude_1]

I am so pissed picco engine suck for quality. I have used my picco engine for about 1hour run time had it about 3month and guess what today I have had troubles with it right and took the engine aparts and the top speed needle was broken I have to buy a new engine now they have dissocntinued the xp.15 engine to and that makes me even more pissed. I am thinking of getting a rb now becasue they are awsome engine and I have used one to so nice also my shock suck to I am waiting for my xxx-nt losi shocks need they so badley then I will have only a couple stock parts koool.so what sould I do write a letter to trinity or should I just drop it they have no waranty but oh well let me know l8ter

[MonsterBlazer#1]

dude picco RULE...as a rule:p

id say writting them a letter and saying " ive always been a picco fan, buying picco and advising my mates to buy picco, this motor has realy changed my mind, i thin i will start telling people to stay away from picco.."
start by using the good old"i used to love ur stuff and now i hate it" line
make em feel guilty...always works;)

[nitrodude_1]

blazer I already did back to rb for me they are awsome so getting a new one

[RC10's]

If you talk to enough people you will eventually find someone that doesnt like something that other people generally do...Picco engines, in all my experiences, have been very good reliable engines, but nothigns perfect and problems will occur in anything mechanical. RB engines are really good too, and one of my personal top picks.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
bill they just feel flimseyand not smooth, they have no balloon thingies in the caps.....

*shrug* The shocks AE uses today are the same shocks they used ten years ago (which you can already tell in the 10T thread! :D ) except they keep changing the bodies and shafts. Reason: they don't need improvement. There's no balloon caps because they don't need them. The only reason they ever leak is if you over fill them.

If yours are new they'll loosen up a bit after a few runs.

[bikejunkie]

Almost have it done just have to finish pipe and manifold and fuel line. Pretty easy to do only changed motor mount and clutch bell.

http://www.******.net/media/P9260035.jpg

[MonsterBlazer#1]

nice gt.
u r gona cut suma that fuel line down arent you:eek: :confused:

[RC10's]

nice looking GT, only problem is the AM 27MHZ HPI receiever...Do your truck a favor and remove anything with HPI, AM, or 27MHZ written on it.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

hey felas
ive spent a wile on my gt and al i need now b4 i run the beast and break her in is:

1x Dubbo blue inline fuel filter
4x medium sized BLUE body pins
4x AE Lock sleeves for team rc10gt shocks (AE shock clamps)(AE spring collars)

im going for the whole BLUE theme like most ppl :P

just a question...how long do u guys have ur fuel and vacume lines?

whats therecommended and what works well on ur AE.15???

thanks

Neil

[1tuffRC10]

I run at least 9 inches of pressure line and keep the fuel line short as possible. The pressure line is the one that goes to the exhaust. One tip is to keep the pressure line coiled up a little higher than the tank. This will help to keep the fuel from siphoning back into the pipe. BTW The fuel tank has a filter built in so there's really no need for another filter. IMO

[nitrodude_1]

I wish my truck looked that clean I will have plenty of time to clean it though 3 months till christmas stupid cheap trinity anybody wana buy a xp.15 3 months old only thing ruined it the top speed casing have plenty of other parts to so

[MonsterBlazer#1]

shouldnt u leave like atleadt 6 inches of fuel line so tha if u flip u it wont konk out?
thats wot i usually do.:)

[Railman]

I used to run the fuel line as short as possible too, but I think they tune easier with a longer line. A short line will tend to shoot more fuel into the carb when you snap the throttle quickly, because the pressure is greater at the fuel nozzle, & then there is less pressure drop as it continues to flow. A long line will tend to shoot a good shot of fuel initially, but then the pressure will drop more under flow, due to the flow resistance of the longer line. When there is little to no flow the pressure is near the same in a short vs a long line. The differance is about the change in pressure when you throttle an engine.

There are some guys that actually run without any pressure line at all at times, but It seems to me that it would create a lean condition when the throttle is initally opened. On carburated full size cars, they have an accelerator pump that acts like a squirt gun when the throttle is opened. This shot of fuel is to help eliminate the lean condition lag created by the venturie vacuume drop when the throttle is first opened. That the main reason fuel injected cars take throttle so much better than carburated cars. The fuel delivery is independant from the manifold vacuume pressure.

In the end, as long as you tune for the length your using, the differance isn't that great, but like I said, I find a 5" or so easier to tune for me. Just try to keep it from touching the pipe anywhere.
Just my $.02




Joe

[Twist 2 Go]

The only real good use I've found for the external fuel filter and a longer fuel line is that it holds a little extra fuel. About 1/2 laps worth at my track.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by RC10's
....only problem is the AM 27MHZ......receiever...

I hear this time and time again and is utter and complete nonsense, I have nothing but 27 AM's on all my electrics and nitros, have two full sets of crystals, have been on many different tracks at all ends of the state and in arbitrary bashing areas, and have never once experienced a glitch, range, or failure problem unless it's related to a cracked crystal or low batteries. Some of my 27's are over 10 years old and still work just fine.

[Polk]

Im using 75MHz, good ol FM..no chance of someone elese having the same down here cuase 75mhz is illegal! I think its a $10000 fine...

Ouch, broken parts hurt....specially when you dont have a spare...

[MonsterBlazer#1]

goes to sho god dont like kiwis

[Railman]

Use a cookie sheet with foil on it, lightly oil, cook wheels for 10 minutes at a preheated 325' F, & all will be reusable. Just clean up wheels, & tires afterward with a little acetone. Be shure to keep a close eye on the oven when doing this.
Joe

Edit: I was in the general forum when I did this post!:confused:

[nitrodude_1]

polk what part u brake rear shocktower or rear bulk head

[dave mac]

I have an extra OS CV engine I am willing to learn on, does anyone have any suggestions on enginge modifications.

THanks
Dave MAc

[nitrodude_1]

ya boost bottle and port and polishing

[dave mac]

Nitrodude thanks for the reply, for port polishing, do I get a polisher for the dremlin, and polish the sleeve and whear the ports in the sleeve are???? inside and out???

THanks
Dave Mac:)

[nitrodude_1]

I wan't talking about you doing it it takes alot of work and practise you might just screw it up take it to a hobby shop you need really fine grinders to do it to also anybody wana buy a xp.15 e-mail me only has a broken top speed needle casing have needed also selling a ae.15 parts engine and alot of parts

[Polk]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
polk what part u brake rear shocktower or rear bulk head

Tower

[MonsterBlazer#1]

my advice, if u arent familiar with working on ur rc engines dont put a boost bottle on..not much performance boost.

my .02

[Railman]

The simplest power boost is in matching the exhaust manifold/header to the engine's rectangular exhaust outlet. Be shure to match up the gasket too. After that, I'd try slightly improving the transfer ports by flattening the sleeve at the transfer port area. As far as polishing, I'd only polish the exhaust port on the aluminum only. Slightly rough transfers atomize the fuel better.Leave them alone. Never polish the sleeves bore...it'll ruin the compression. Knive edging the rod helps alot, but you need to be carefull not to take too much off. Keep in mind that any weight loss on the rod idrectly contributes to more HP, due to the reduction in recipricating mass. It will also idle much easier.

Cutting about 3/16" off the header will work well with most pipes, with about 3/16" gap in the coupler.

For much improved throttle snap, use a longer throw servo horn on the throttle. Keep the brake side near stock length. The XXXNT kit, or Ofna kit is a big improvement over stock.

If you try to do too much porting stuff, it'll make the engine run goofy, overheat, ruin fuel efficiency, & be hard to tune. Crank mods can help, but it also makes the engine vibrate much more.
Joe

[MonsterBlazer#1]

i cant get full thottle on my gt(i havent run it yet im just setting it up)

i duno if its wthe prob but, the cr@ppy tower servo on it dont seem to have much movement???:confused:
ill try putting the futaba 1 in and see how it goes...
ive attachted a pic please tell me wot you think is the prob?
thanks

NEIL:p

[dog8spam]

Check to see if the servo is pulling on carb when the brake is on, if so you just need to adjust the trim or remove the horn and turn it a little. If you get into a situation where when you do get to full throttle and it wont go back to idle then you dont have enough range and need a longer servo arm.

[1tuffRC10]

Looks like it's way out of adjustment. Using the front of the truck as 12 o'clock, set the servo arm between 7 and 8, with the trim at neutral of course. Then get the arm on the carb between 1 and 2 by the same method with straight up being 12. This should have the carb fully open between 10 and 11 on the carb. This should work, if not move the pivot out on the arm if you can. Or move the pivot on the carb arm down. Also be sure your radio throw is set at full.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ok thanks il give it a go

[MonsterBlazer#1]

1tuff, what u said makes no sene at all....:confused: :eek:

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ok guys i just figured how to make my ko propo rado turn on:p
and now ive mannaged to make the trim so it opens fully..wasnt anything to do with the servo horn..just the tx wasnt set up right:D

thanks 4 ya help..

Neil

[1tuffRC10]

I can't explain it any better on the net. Sorry it didn't help. Works good for me but I ain't no professional! But I do know that if it isn't set right, the throttle won't respond evenly through the range. It can make a GT nearly impossible to drive if the geometry on the servo horn and the throttle arm isn't right. Been there, did that. My way, when the trigger on the radio is pulled back half way, the throttle is open half way.

Glad u got it going. Now to make it fly! LOL :D

[MonsterBlazer#1]

yea, ill do that after i break it in:rolleyes:

[1tuffRC10]

Well, if you leave your radio on for 2 days, the batts die. LOL Duhhh. Oh well. I'll never learn.

MonsterBlazer, those numbers were off a little. The carb or servo doesn't have that much throw. Oops, my bad. You just want to try and keep the geometry close.

[the rock]

Gents,

just wanted to share a project i finally finished. I have built a real monster GT. Its a .21 thunder tiger, 3-speed mph power king.

this this flies by doing easily over 70mph... it has the high speed bell gear. It almost handles and jumps just as well as a normal gt. Its what the Shumac XTR wanted to be. It can go from a dead stop to to speed 3rd gear every time and it ALWAYS has all 4 wheels planted. So you can really use the power and manuver it. Its incredible how well it handles the power and speed. I can hit 3rd gear top speed EVERY run.... and it brakes on a dime.

Keep in mind that with the XTR you can't fit the high speed bell gear. Ive adapted the FUSION high speed bell on this one.

I have a stock OS .15 GT... and when we drag race... in about a 75 yard dash... the 3speed gt is across the finish line by the time the stock one is about half way... Ive ran about 10 tanks up and down streets and in the track.... and I have not had ONE problem with it...

Its a bit extreme but its definetly a car to have. On the track I can do lap after lap...

I still have a normal GT I run... but I had to share... this car is a real beast. I have to share with fellow gt owners as I live in Cozumel Mexico and NO ONE can appreciate what this car is over here.

Incase your interested on some pics and how it was put together let me know.

[Polk]

Pics would be good

[the rock]

Here you go. Don't mind the battery wire across the turn buckle. Its been nicely re-routed over the tranny. The white piece between the shock tower and the tranny is a custom piece of plastic, it was measured to give the car the correct dimensions... now that the leg work is done out and perfected... im going to rebuit it to make it look factory....

[the rock]

another

[the rock]

another

[the rock]

another

[the rock]

another

[the rock]

our local track as it was being finished...

[the rock]

another

[the rock]

another

[the rock]

another

[nitrodude_1]

damn man you are crazy.lol. I cant use my truck till december 2 months 2 crazy

[the rock]

another

[the rock]

another

[nitrodude_1]

dude that is crazy how did u make it

[the rock]

NITRO

in a nut shell... new era chassi, .21 thunder tiger, RB 9886 pipe, Shumac XTR tranny and spurs, Fusion high speed bell gear, XTR rear hub carriers, T-MAXX cvd's, custom carrier pins, XTR wheels, custom shock tower plate, trimmed RPM rear arms... and lots of measuring/fittling and drilling.... DREMEL!!!

If you want any specifics on how to build one step by step ill be more than happy to help.... lets go show the world what a GT is made of... :cool:

Here is a pic of it with 1/8 wheels... doesnt handle well with them... well will do over 80mph....

[the rock]

with 1/8 wheels

[the rock]

with normal wheels ... before the e-start system...

[MonsterBlazer#1]

nice car,
i still love my gt:D

[the rock]

yeah I love my stock GT also. I run it every weeknd... in fact i have sold a gt to everyone in our club.. there is NO better car!!!:cool:

[1tuffRC10]

Rock, that thing looks great. Have u seen the braces for the gear box? The one that goes up and across to the throttle servo. It's got a rollbar incorporated in it. Might be a good idea cause I know that thing sees some wild air!

[the rock]

Hey 1TUFF

yeah thanks... I have that piece. It does not fit anymore. I used it when I first had the .21 incorporated with the stock GT tranny... tranny melted.. literally.. :eek: I then switched to the aluminum diff gear... and it was quick and as strong as dynamite... but my top speed wasnt any faster... just got there much quicker... so I said... what the heck.. im going to do this right..... ok im off the subject...

That brace sits on top of the stock tranny... now that I switched to the XTR tranny the brace doesnt sit correctly on the back... this truck can probably jump a hotel..lol maybe i should custom fit it...

[nitrodude_1]

my truck is perfect to me now just need a .12 and new tires and a body and I can race in next years cactus classic hehe

[the rock]

NITRO, 1TUFF, MONSTER

Thanks for the compliments. Im glad to see someone appreciates all the work... Were I live a normal GT is like a UFO to them..

:eek:

Thanks

[nitrodude_1]

what u mean I don't un commen cause never seena ufo

[the rock]

?

[Railman]

the rock,
Nice job! You should be proud. I bet those tires get pretty big when you open it up!
Joe

[the rock]

railman

thanks!!! funny you say that... when its opened up and goes by in third gear the car lifts about 2 inches

im going to try and get some video... its just so amazing how good it drives and how easy and stable it handles the speeds...

[thunderbt3]

anyone willing to give up thier AE .15 engine from the GT RTR? i love this engine on my little bro's gt and now i want one for my NTC3

[The King]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
ya boost bottle and port and polishing

I hear the boost bottle is a waste of money:confused:

[thunderbt3]

anyone willing to give up thier AE .15 engine from the GT RTR? i love this engine on my little bro's gt and now i want one for my NTC3

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
was just looking at my Tracks website and i saw a pic of my working on my GT and i was like OMG OMG! cause i hav been trying to get a pic of my GT for ages! its pretty not so good, haha, but here it is anyways, mines the GT with the wing...

http://rzepecki.homelinux.net/~nathanr/radiorallyv2/pic/photos/74.

seeing as its a pretty dodge pic, here is what ur looking at:
RC10GT Factory Team pull start kit
Futaba MJ radio system
Hitech HS925 steering servo
RB Concept X12
Nova Rossi header
Motor Saver 1/8th scale air filter
Hammad Ghuman ultra chassis
RPM blue front arms
RPM blue rear arms
RPM black rear bulkhead
RPM blue and yellow HD cups
RPM snap-tite body savers
RPM yellow body mounts/posts
RPM blue receiver box
RPM yellow 3mm nylon nuts
RPM yellow 3deg rear arm mounts
RPM yellow front mini bumper
RPM yellow shock bottoms/spring cups
MIP ball bearing steering
MIP super diff rebuild
MIP thrust rebuild
MIP gold shock shafts
MIP blue seal o-rings for shocks
MIP shiny CVD's
MIP light weight blue alloy flywheel
MIP 4'n'1 clutch
RRP Ti top shaft
RRP alloy main diff gear
RRP steal idler gear
RRP steal spur(65t) and HD clutch bell(15t) set
Trinity Team Kinwald blue alloy rear tranny brace
Trinity Team Kinwald blue alloy steering servo mounts
Trinity Team Kinwald blue alloy front chassis brace tube mounts
Team Associated non-pull mounts
Team Associated AE GT/NTC3 fuel tank(#7719)
Team Associated alloy shock caps
Eureka Pro purple closed ends
Dynamite fuel line clips
Venom Temp monitor
OFNA yellow throttle linkage kit
Lunsford titanium hinge pin and king pin set
HongNor 1/8th buggy wing stay set
HongNor 1/8th buggy yellow wing
Proline yellow dish rims with Proline M3 gladiators and Proline M3 Edges

i love it, but it still needs something...

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Wallis Racing]

Oh, and btw, that movie i told u's about before is finished, but JC is looking for a place to host it. he has it hosted somewhere, but its only a small server, so he cant give out the address publicly yet cause its a bussinesses server. but as soon as he find a big enough server ill give you all the addy. i know that kinda sounds weird, but his last movie crashed like a HUGE ass server. one 32mb movie took down the whole rcmovies.com, rccars.com, rc-cars.net server because it was d/l sooo many times.

but anyways, even know i participated in most of the stuff in the movie, and was at least watching the rest of it happen, i am still amazed everytime i watch it! its WICKED!

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Polk]

How did you get such a lare wing mounted on a GT?!?!?!

Pretty GT.....

[MonsterBlazer#1]

OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wallis you live in perth?????????????
i live in mandurah!!!!!!!!!!!:D
this is cool as, a r/c 'r in australia and aswel,,,hes close ,,and aswell,, HES GOTA GT LIKE MEEEE:D:D:D:D

my msn is neilmichelson@hotmail.com

we shud get to geather and race 1 day:D

--Neil

[nitrodude_1]

so I have decided to get the sirio .12 engine standard racing roar legal

[MonsterBlazer#1]

viray nice.

[Wallis Racing]

Polk-
pretty easy, i stole the idea off the NMT guys. just need to get urself a 1/8th buggy wing and wing stay set (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJ38&P=7), drill 4 holes in your rear shock tower and screw the baby on. i dont really know how its effecting performance, but it makes a bloody good handle:p and a sick wheelie bar too. as a general rule, aerodynamics only come into effect at high speeds, and at high speeds i hav no controll of my GT anyways, so it hasnt had much of an effect other then being a good handle and wheelie bar.

MonsterBlazer#1-
Hey Hey,
has been ages since ive heard from a WA boy on any of the forums. there is about...1..2..3..4..5 of us down here with GT's that bash around. plus one of the guys is Juls from Radio Models (http://www.radiomodels.com.au) so he is heaps of help, gives us discounts on parts plus he has HEAPS of RC stuff. mostly electrics, but his GT is better then mine and hes soon going to get a RB V12 5port turbo rody modded, so it wil be insane. plus some of the other guys have other cars like rallys and stuff, so its all pretty good. And i race at a buggy club against around 15 buggies, so there is no shortage of bash buddies over here.
will talk to you on MSN man...

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Wallis Racing]

Dont u hate that post editing time limit thingy! i do:p
The pic i posted up there has stoped working, so here it is again.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[the rock]

WALLIS

How the car in flight... isnt it back heavy?

[Wallis Racing]

It is a tad, but a quick tap of the brakes and shes all apples. on small jumps where there is little or no room for adjustments i do find it a bit arsey, but like i said, a quick tap of the brakes and its nothing out of control...

*just noticed my first pic is working again*:rolleyes:

Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[bikejunkie]

thunderbt3,
I have an AE .15 maybe ran fir 6 tanks. Will take 65.00
email me if interested. jwindlinger2000@yahoo.com

[the rock]

WALLIS

im sure its workable... i just added the small stock "lip wing" it comes with. ill see what it does.

[dog8spam]

Anyone know about using Losi front axles? I heard about it somewhere and wanted to know if I could use them with Associated rims.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
[COLOR=blue] i dont really know how its effecting performance, but it makes a bloody good handle:p and a sick wheelie bar too. as a general rule, aerodynamics only come into effect at high speeds, and at high speeds i hav no controll of my GT anyways, so it hasnt had much of an effect other then being a good handle and wheelie bar.

The wing is probably causing it to do wheelies because of the increased downforce on the rear. The gt dosnt have a center diff like 1/8th buggies to keep the front end on the ground.

[need4speed4]

my Gt with an O.S. 12cvr idles very high and very finicky, and I cant tune it because it wont hold a tune. It doesnt run very well, and I know it isnt running to its potential.Is this an air leak?? If so, then what do I do?? Please help...

Thanks,
Brian

[Polk]

I know ive asked this before but can you use a starter box on a pull start engine, with pull start mounts and flywheel ?

Thanks

[RC10's]

POLK - yes you can use a starte box with a pull start motor mounted with a pull start mount and flywheel, on most boxed the wheel barely hits the flywheel before the chassis but it can be done.

need4sped4 - OS motors generally are very easy to tune and hold their tune very well, so the fact that this isnt happening for you means there is some form of a problem. It could be an air leak, the most common spot is the base of the carburetor, either the screw holding it in place is loose or missing or the o-ring is damaged or missing. It could also be where the throttle arm goes into the carb as those rubber boots are prone to tearing or popping off a little. Another thing to consider might be your glow plug.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

yes Polk u can

[MonsterBlazer#1]

hey, can any1 tell me how to brake in the tranny?
also what was the way u broke in ur ae.15?
i know how i do it(im no noob ..LOL:P)
but im just curious how use gys brake in tranny and ae.15

thanks
Neil:cool:

[nitrodude_1]

when I broken in my tranny I just let it go around in a circle for 1 or 2 mins at 1/8-1/4 throttle and then broght it back inside and tightened it again. I had to do it 4 times till it was fully broken in and I had it tight enough when the wheels were on. I held 1 wheel and the spur gear I was just able to turn the other wheelie a little bit. I found that makes my diff perfect. u should have to use alot of pressure to turn it. engine for breaking in 4 tanks idel, 5th tank stop 1/4 stop ect, 6th tank stop, 1/4 stop 1/2 ect, 7th tank stop 1/4 stop 1/2 stop 3/4 ect, 8th tanks stop 1/4 stop 1/2 stop 3/4 stop full ect, dont run it dry either make sure it is extremle rich so fuel is flying out the pipe

my 2 cent

[RC10's]

It is not neccesary to "break in" any part of your tranny, the only thing that happens is the diff and slipper tend to loosen up a little after your first few runs, so just check the tightness of each to be sure its where you want it. As for breaking in engines everyone has their own method and again there is no "right" way, just make sure you run it really rich for at least 4 tanks.

[challenger440-6]

What do you guys think i could get for a rc10GT plus. heres the stats:

.15 cv-x engine 3 quarts(well broken in with break in fuel) always run with 18% or equal to 18% fuel, run cool, 190-230 a;ways use after run oil)
rpm a-arm
all metal tranny gears.
mip 4 in one racing clutch
mip on board temp gauge
high flow air filter(big deal right?)
tuned pipe
proline dirt hawgs out back
losi tires up front
mip cvd's

front end got a lil screws up but nothin is bent, just needs adjust.

chassis are some scratches but not from jumping just from rocky surfaces.


What do you think?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

so use the factory setitngs?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

i woudlnt have a clue challenger, just look in the forsale section.

[MORTER MAN]

Hi guys,
Well I was thinging about getting a Savge 25.
But ever since tower sold out of them I am thinking other wise now.
I don't know if I should get a rc10GT plus or a savage 25?
I know almost all of you guys will say GT but why? Why should I?
All I really want to do is bash/off road/jump/just have fun
I don't think I will race unless the local track starts a class but a dont think they will its all eletric.ANY INPUT WILL HELP!:(

[xpressgt]

MORTER MAN


it all depends on what you want to do with it if you just want a rc to drive around for fun i would get the savage or a t-maxx but if you tink your are gona race with it i would get a Gt

[xpressgt]

Here is my GT with couple of new parts

Latest up grades

O.S 12 tr (haven’t broke it in yet!!!!)
Mugan manifold
Airtronics 94357Z (this thing is fast)
Associated Lightweight Outdrive (lighter then the stock one) P#1766
Ofna linkage (This make a world of difference)

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/86414/1.jpg

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/86414/2.jpg

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/86414/3.jpg

Here is the Lightweight Outdrive
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/86414/6.jpg

[MonsterBlazer#1]

nice

[Railman]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Anyone know about using Losi front axles? I heard about it somewhere and wanted to know if I could use them with Associated rims.

There are several ways to make the Losi front axles work, but there are also several issues that need to be dealt with.

One is that Losi uses a bigger diameter at the big end of the axle. It's about .252", whereas the stk GT is .242". You can sand it down nin a drill, or, you can do what I did, & cut it on a lathe. Another way is to drill out the GT spindle block .010" bigger than stock.

Another issue is that the Losi axles will make the truck about .2" (.1" each side) over the max 13" legal width. I cut the shoulder back some on my lathe, but some just redrill the 1/8" hole to get the right width. By cutting the shoulder back .1", mine teched out at a snug 13" tech box fit. The width changes as the ride ht changes. 1/8" (.125") might be a better number. That would add only less than 1/16" to the width, & be a bit safer at tech inspection.

Another issue is the length of the wheel bearing portion of the axle. Rather than cutting the shaft down, & extending the threads, I just used a nylon washer from Sears to shim the space between the axle nut, & the wheel bearing. That way I can run Losi or Assc rims in a pinch.

It's probably the single best mod you can do for helping the GT in rough terain, & awkward jumping. It also helps immensly with controling traction rolling. Since I installed the wider axles on mine, & haven't traction rolled even once over a period of about a gallon of racing. I used to traction roll about once a race, sometimes more. It's definately worth doing.
Joe

[Railman]

expressgt,

Nice looking GT!

How do you like you Team Bluestar chassis? I run one also, but found that the flange they removed back by the spur, weakened the chassis considerably. I added an additional brace to beef it up.
Joe

[nitrodude_1]

express i see u have the lugnut rear tires how do you like those and u think the piggy back resorve is really worth the money

[xpressgt]

Railman

i havent had a prob with it yet

nitrodude_1

thw lug nuts work real good when the track is wet and mudy i love them havent seen a tire like it and as far as the pigy backs i think they are just for looks i havent seen the best of them yet.

[MORTER MAN]

Well I guess I am leaning more to a GT.Mainly becuase there 300.00 and then I could put 140.00 dollars of hop ups in it right off the batt [I have a budget of 440.00 but I could get more if I got a savage].So well..........I don't know what do you guys think?I can't decide on my own!!!!!!!!:( :confused: :eek:

[Polk]

Well the savage is BIGGER so the price of parts, fuel, etc would be BIGGER....:o

[MORTER MAN]

WELL SORRY GUYS I JUST ORDERED A SAVAGE 25 RTR OFF E-BAY

[nitrodude_1]

thanks xpress I ordered a pair of lugnut

[MonsterBlazer#1]

are the lugnuts proline?

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
are the lugnuts proline?


yes they are

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ok thanks,
m3 or m2 u recon?

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
ok thanks,
m3 or m2 u recon?


check this out http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html (Proline lugnuts)

[Budman_222]

Does enyone know what motor mount fits the team bluestar chassis that's being sold on e bay all the time? I got one and discovered my motor mount doesn't even come close to matching the holes for it in the chassis. Mine are for the older tub chassis. It's a 12 cvr engine if it matters. I need a part # if anyone has one.


Thanks, Bud

[xpressgt]

Budman_222

for pull start it is p# 7771

for non pull start it is p# 7770

[dave mac]

THe spacer in the rear wheel, to give long or short wheel base, has anybody experimented with both settings and did you notice much of a difference. Just curious


THanks
Dave MAc

[Budman_222]

Thank you.


Bud

[dagoson]

hey guys I just bought a stock gt plus off ebay and I am not familiar with this truck I raced a 10t before but not gt I just sold my 1/8 scale storm to get into 10th scale because there is no track close enough for 1/8 anyway here is my question what should i do to this truck before i take it to the track ? I hear the aluminum tras brace is almost a must, is that true and what other hop up is of a major importance so it doesnt break as soon as it hits the track?

[xpressgt]

dagoson

i would not change a thing oh maybe the throtel linkage to the ofna one becouse from what i have learned its not how many hop ups you have but how well your Gt is set up for the track.but if you want to hop it up you can get the rpm arms. RRP gears things like that the trans brase was my first hop up so you might want to get it that to.

[nitrodude_1]

is a alluminum tranny brace worth it

[fuzzy2133]

Originally posted by dave mac
THe spacer in the rear wheel, to give long or short wheel base, has anybody experimented with both settings and did you notice much of a difference. Just curious


THanks
Dave MAc

I have only seen a big change when I have been running on high traction surfaces. in loose conditions it was a minor change.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

who makes the ali tranny brace?

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
who makes the ali tranny brace?

i realy like the trinity one Tranny Brace (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=7)

[nitrodude_1]

ya but is it worth getting thats alot for that little piece

[Surgeon General]

There's one other company that a similar brace that's half as much. I bought one from tower hobbies last month

I can't find the link though :mad:

[rocknbil]

HGI Titanium alloy, 12 bucks. My wife's got one and I think I ordered one for Polk and sent it to him.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL600&P=7

[Polk]

:D You would be right in saying that bill..

Yea I got one, its bent, but I think thats just my driving...:D:D

[Wallis Racing]

The reason the kinwald tranny brace is so highly recomended is because it is extended to the brake cam mount, and is much stronger. alloy braces that are the same shape as the stock one, like the HG brace, if given a good shunt will break the tanny case. it simply splits the screw holes in the tranny case where it bolts on, where as i have head little to no one complain about the performance of the kinwald one.... plus it looks better:p

its very definately worth the extra money!

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[MonsterBlazer#1]

would u guys ercomend the upgraded trany brace if i am a ligh core basher?
i might go into racing next yar but atm i dont do hard core stuff with my gt....and dont plan to..

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
.......Yea I got one, its bent.......

OMG . . you bent it? How did you . . . . uhhh . . . . never mind . . . .


:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by xpressgt
i realy like the trinity one Tranny Brace (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=7)
Some dumb little kid sold me one of these NIB for $2.

[Killer87]

Just a question:

I know someone who wants to sell their GT RTR. It includes everything except the reciever and servos dont work. It also includes 2 sets of front ribbed tires and 4 sets of rear tires (two sets of mashers, 1 set of step-pins NEW, and 1 set of on-road tires). Would it be worth it to buy it for $60? It runs, and I have tested it out.

Thanks,
Erik

[nitrodude_1]

TRINITY IS THE BIGGEST RIP OFF COMPANEY i WILL ONLY BY THERE ENGINES AND THATS IT THEY ARE SO OVER PRICE IF U WANT GOOD DEALS GO TO GPM i JUST GOT MY SELF A TITANIUM BRAKE DISC FOR 20.00 AND A TRANNY BRACE LOOKS THE SAME AS THE TRINITY FOR 10.00

[Wallis Racing]

Wow, fell better now u got that off ur chest?
i sure as **** hope someone steals ur capslock key real soon:p

MonsterBlazer#1
yeah, i reckon its worth it. like i said, with other non-extented braces, if you land on ur rear tower it very easily rips ur tranny case apart, which wont happen with the extended braces... and like nitrodude very subtly said, you may even want to look at the gpm extented brace:
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=288

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[RC10's]

Trinitys products do tend to be overpriced, but so are a lot of companys. The tranny brace is a really good piece though, the GPM Im sure is just as good.

[nitrodude_1]

ya see wallis the looks way better the the trinity lighter to and it was nice to get that off my chest and I hope they read that to. but anyways I need to sell my gt it is back to mostley stock. tranny gears are all brand new and setup right comes with factory team reverse fill gas tank no electronics servos or linkage either probally could put something together for ya though shock just got a new rebuild to. it is a clean truck well tanken care of comew with masher 2000 and a xp.15 the engine runs just needs a new high speed needle case the part no is tp6465 4.00 and 2 washers tp6175 2.00 it will cost 6.00 for the engine. what u think my truck is worth.

[Jamedup]

Another believer!!!!

I have to admit that I had my doubts about how much better the Crescenzi Racing drum brake was over stock, since I had no troubles at all racing with the stock disc brake. (or so I thought)

With that being said, I put the CR drum brake thru it's paces last night at the race track and I have to say that I am VERY impressed with the difference in consistency between the 2 brake systems. The CR brake performed flawlessly!!!! I should kick myself for waiting so long to try it.

Polk, you should be thankfull you didn't buy a xxxNT. Man you're rough on your stuff. :eek:

[nitrodude_1]

I found the best brake to use the stock with the gpm titanium brade disc. now that is nice no breaking no replacing when oil gets into the carbon fiber. it is perfect look kool to:D

[dagoson]

ok i just got my 2nd and 3rd rc10gt's I still have to run them but i kept running into deals so i bought them anyway one of them has a short shaft on the engine and the other 2 have the long or pilot shaft i belive they are I want them all to be as similar as possible so if i take the motor with the short shaft off what if anything do i have to do to make the pilot shaft work

[1tuffRC10]

Been on vacation ya'll. Had my GT on Lowes Motor Speedway after the race Saturday night.

jamedup, those brakes are the s..t.

Trinity brace is a must. Unless someone else makes one with 6 holes. The braces that only use 2 screws in the tranny are useless. JMO

[JeffS]

******.net has a few nice How To's and Reviews of products for the RC10GT:

How To: Rebuild Your Shocks
http://www.******.net/view_feature.php?featid=10

Review: Crescenzi Racing Shock Socks
http://www.******.net/view_feature.php?featid=11

How To: Rebuild Your Transmission and Differential
http://www.******.net/view_feature.php?featid=12

Review: Crescenzi Racing RC10GT Brake Kit
http://www.******.net/view_feature.php?featid=13

-Jeff

[MonsterBlazer#1]

nice ill hava little read.

[dagoson]

yes thanks jeff i can use some of that info for sure, and is there anyone active here that is racing at dirt burners in michigan?

[birr221]

hey im sure this question has been asked before but i cant seem to find it on the boards. i have a completely stock GT rtr and every time i take a jump, it nosedives, or completely flips forward onto its back. even when i hold down the gas throughout the jump it hits the nose. do you guys have any suggestions on how to fix this?

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by birr221
hey im sure this question has been asked before but i cant seem to find it on the boards. i have a completely stock GT rtr and every time i take a jump, it nosedives, or completely flips forward onto its back. even when i hold down the gas throughout the jump it hits the nose. do you guys have any suggestions on how to fix this?



it all has to do with what wt oil you have n your shocks and also has alot to do with your throtel control when your in the air i can remember the throtel part like what dose what but i know that is has alot to do with it.

[Polk]

I used to have that problem birr221 but then i replaced the shock oil in the front shocks to 50wt and not its flies flat every time...

[birr221]

thanks, ill try changing the oil tomorrow.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by birr221
....every time i take a jump, it nosedives, or completely flips forward onto its back. even when i hold down the gas throughout the jump it hits the nose. .....

Adjustments in suspension will affect the overall track handling. While that can sometimes make your problem go away on some jumps, it may make it worse on others, or make other conditions troublesome. The best way to beat it is to change your approach.

Think of the physics: as you approach the jump, the front suspension compresses as it begins to climb the jump. As it rebounds, the nose is beginning to spring upward while the rear wheels are now beginning to compress. By the time you reach the top, the nose is coming back down, and the rear is now rebounding, causing the whole thing to pitch forward when it gets airborne.

Try this little trick: Just at the split second the front wheels begin to touch the jump, just as fast as you can flick the brakes and get back on the gas. Just as fast as you can, not even enough to slow down. This little jog causes the nose to dip BEFORE it hits the jump, and when you go airborne it's probably going to try to roll backward.

Forgiving that, if you must tweak the suspension, heavier oil weight will slow down your shock action and help, and maybe stiffen up the front springs a tad, but either of these can cause push in high speed turns or an unstable ride in bumpy sections.

[dog8spam]

As far a tranny braces go I took a spare one and put it on top of the stock one running back to the brake thing. The two holes in the middle lined up so it was tight making the whole assembly stronger.

With the losi front axles you said it widened the truck on each side by 1", does this cause any problems with the carrier because the wheel has so much more leverage?

[Polk]

Geez..

Right so I won a starter box offa ebay (Ofna) after doing in another pull start, hasent arrived yet but my order for on pull start stuff from tower which I made after has, odd!

Anyways Ive been spending the last 3 days fixing the GT all up, replacing shock tower, battery tray thing, cleaning, replacing engine mounts, flywheel, etc. Did you know you have to cut the crankshaft to put on a non PS backplate? I didnt, but its done now!!

Anyways I nearly had it alllll ready for the starter box (when it arrive) when I put it all together turn me radio on, and whammo there goes my carb lever thing...Argh, Glue doesnt hold this damn thing together its so oily so I made a custom one out of a servo arm! Took a bit of drum sanding to get it down to the right thickness but I did, quite proud of myself now..:D

Man, I cant wait for the box, havent run my GT in 4 weeks...4 WEEKS!!!!!!

:)

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ye well i havent run my gt in 17 years:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
.....I made a custom one out of a servo arm......

Well if you feel confident but beware - if that thing breaks (and servo horns, if that's what you used, WILL break, esp. if you have a throttle return spring) you're stuck with a wide open throttle until you get to it, and you know what comes next . . .

Suggestion. Make a metal one if you have to fabricate, or go the safe route and order one. :( Bummer i know, caught in shipping hell . . .

On that topic if it's shipped from eBay they probably went the least expensive route so yeah . . . don't get too antsy if it takes a while . . .

[Polk]

Ha, I dont use a TRS *smacks forhead*

Ill try to make one outta metal at school, but it will be tricky. GT is all together now!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!

Man engine sits low with non PS mounts!!!

[Railman]

dog8spam,
Are you refering to my earlier post a few pages back?

"Another issue is that the Losi axles will make the truck about .2" (.1" each side) over the max 13" legal width. I cut the shoulder back some on my lathe, but some just redrill the 1/8" hole to get the right width. By cutting the shoulder back .1", mine teched out at a snug 13" tech box fit."

If so, it says .1" (1/10") not 1" , & no it's not a problem for the spindle. It's only 1/10" extension. If I remember right, RCCA mentioned something about being 1" wider in the Jared Tebo GT picts, but it was a missprint.

That's an excellent idea on stacking the stock tranny brace. If I try that, I will ca them together. I still have the stock one on mine, but I glue it in place with ecelectic, silcone, goop, or shoe goo. I've used them all. I do think the Trinity brace looks good, I just find other ways to spend the money. Every time I have tried to buy one at my lhs, they were out of stock. I have only broke the tranny case one time, & that was a result of many extreme rough battery case rear landings. It bent my braced Bluestar chassis a bunch!
Joe

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
Ha, I dont use a TRS *smacks forhead*...

Well I know you thought of this . . but follow the logic, with a plastic arm . . . the throttle return spring generally attaches one end to the throttle arm and the other to the engine mount or someplace on the chassis. If the throttle arm breaks, the chances are very good the TRS can slip off. Drilling a hole in the arm to accommodate the spring will only weaken it.

There's one area you always want to make rock solid and check, triple check, and just in case check again, and that is all points between the TX trigger and the carburetor.

[1tuffRC10]

Railman, the losi wheels will fit on the front of a GT with the Losi axles. It is within the 13 inch limit then and still handles great.

About those carb arms, I run the metal ones. No problems!

[nitrodude_1]

I am giving you a list of what I have
all the rpm parts
factory team gt
lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hingpins
gpm titanium break disc
gpm tranny mount
losi shocks
and all robinson racing gears
mip 4-1 clutch
mip shiny cvds
sirio .12 roar legal engine
gh rear header
gh s12 tuned pipe
what else should I get guys

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ali shock towers.
ball bearing racing steering linkage.

[RCfun12]

Im selling both of my Gts but i dont know how much i could get for them will yens help me plz? heres what they are

I have an old rc 10 gt with the black frame with the sides it has proline rimes and tires mip cvds futaba radio and a trx .15 engine

the other one is the newest rc10 gt its the factory team kit it has a trx .15 engine and futab gear

i have about 4 or 5 bodys 2 of them in really good condition
um a talkel box full of replacment parts and other stuff

both cars are really clean and well maintaind

What price do u think i can get?

[nitrodude_1]

rcfun you have pics of the tackle box

[RCfun12]

ummm like extra a arms and body pasts fuel tubing screws ballbearings stearing linkuge um turnbuckles mip cvd rebuild kit and some other little stuff

[dog8spam]

If so, it says .1" (1/10") not 1"
Yep, I read it wrong. I thought that was awfully wide.

RCfun, what radio equipment do you have? Also the black frame with the sides is called a blacktub chassis.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

HERE YE HERE YE.........:P
i just ran ha first tank in my gt. i was suprised with how long the seemingly little fuel tank lasts.
seemed to be running to fast and to lean (with factory settings so i richened it and made it run slower @ idel. i stopped it like 3 times becuase it was getting a little hot(duno if it was too hot) but i just wanted to be safe.(i ran it @ idel at all times)

all in all it seems like a good little engine(stock Æ .15)
im gona do another 3 tanks at idel and start introducing her to the throttle a little.:p

Neil

[offroadcrazy01]

If you can get a temp gun the range for .12 are 230-249 the ae.15 I would run @230 make small turns while turning no more then a hour at a time good luck and have fun

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
.....im gona do another 3 tanks at idel and start introducing her to the throttle a little.......

Blazer search around here for posts on breakin - idling your engine for several tanks is generally not the best way to break it in.

[Polk]

You got PM rocknbil

[MonsterBlazer#1]

You got PM rocknbill :D

also. my 3 more tank idel isnt the full extent of my break in........im just gona run like 4 tanks @ 1/4 throttle and make sure it gets no hotter than 110 celcius. then start running @ 1/2 thorttle with little blips and start leaning it out with 1/12 turn for every 1/2 tank.

[atm92484_3]

Thats still not going to break the engine in though. The engine needs heat and it needs to be ran with some load to break in. Idling at all is just wasting fuel, time, and putting a little excess wear on the piston and sleeve.

[Polk]

What! Thats a fine breake in procedure! Remember he said not above 110 CELCIUS Not Farnehite....thats enough heat man!

[dog8spam]

Wasted a whole day at the track, my car wouldnt stay running for anything. I had four guys trying to figure it out but nothing worked, it would keep dieing when I let off the throttle.

Here is why its so confusing:
1 It was in tune. I tried all day with the help of many people, they all agreed it wasnt the tuning.
2 Replaced the glow plug, three times just to be sure.
3 Replaced fuel tank and lines.
4Clutch bearings good
5Cleaned air and fuel filter, even tried without fuel filter.
6Compression good
7New gaskets
8Not air leak, car died from exessive fuel.
9Could idle all day on the bench.
10Got progressively worse as the day went on, in the morning I could get 5 laps max, by the last race it wouldnt make it half way around the track.
11It would work half the time and would just really bog down at random times, usually killing it.

If have any suggestions I will try it. I had the best guys at our track stumped, nothing we tried worked and its driving me crazy.

[Polk]

Rip the carb down and give it a good clean...blast everything with WD-40 and compressed air...Works for me.