Associated RC10GT Forum v7.0

[geo8498]

could someone explain to me what "bump steer" means?

[Motorman007]

Railman

why not use the T3 caster block and not the STock GT caster block?

i talk to some people about this last night.

here what i they told me to do.

T3 castor block, Spindle and Kingpin.

to me it looks like i lost some steering.
but i was told that i don't need that.
what is your take on this info.
thanx

[GT4eva]

Hey guys, check it out. My GT and my backyard track are on the Crescenzi Racing site! Scroll down a little, it's under "Jay's Backyard". http://www.rc10gthobby.com/custrides.htm

There's a pretty cool vid of our informal racing here CLICKY (http://www.midmad.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=919) Just scroll down 5 posts and right click and "save target as" where it says "Seavey 1/10th scale Nationals"

Let me know what you think!

The gang and I attend organized races often as well... but we do have good fun on my backyard track ;)

[Railman]

Motorman,
If I'm not mistaken, using the T3 spindle results in a longer camber rod, which from my experience in the past, of changing a XX to a kingpin ball stud setup, resulted a very smoothe, & a lot less agressive feel...very stable, but it pushed a lot!. After much pondering, I decided that the front works better for steering with a lot of camber change as the suspension is compressed (short camber rod), & the rear works better with less camber change (long rod). If I'm not mistaken, by going to the T3 block, & kingpin ball stud, you end up with a longer camber rod than stock. I wish I could look at one now, but my son sold his B3, & T3 a while back. My son was going to use the whole spindle & block like you described, but he quit racing about two years ago. The way I see it there's nothing wrong with the stock caster block, & with the T3 spindle, it gives a very neutral geometry as the suspension is compressed. It has the same camber change as stock, & can easily be set up with a little nagative bump steer (bump out), if so desired. It results in a shorter steering rod, maybe 3/16 or so, so you need to either cut the std rod, or use a shorter one. I've done it both ways. Just my $.02
Joe

[RC Longtime]

Hey guys whats been found out to be the best amount of weight to add to the
front end to obtain the best steering but notto upset the balance of the truck 2 much? Thanks in advance......

[Motorman007]

Railman you are right about the longer rod for the top part i have 2 3/4 for the top and 2 1/2 for the spindler arm.


to me it seem to have what you said "less agressive feel" but stable is what you are looking for right?

i'm not sure if it push yet. i will try it this weekend and see if this combo makes my truck push to much.

thanx for the info.

Trucks are new to me.

but if you have something to ask about 1/8 i can tell you everything about them.

JD

[Railman]

RC,
I like about 3/4 oz just in front of the servo, with most of it favoring the rt side. It seems to make it jump flatter with the std setup, & makes a big differance in steering. Keep in mind that the XXXNT is at least 4 oz heavier than the GT, & most of the added weight is in the front. I've seen as much as 3 1/2 oz added to the front of some, but that's just not neccesary unless your running a huge receiver pack.
Joe

[RC Longtime]

Thanks Rail... ill try there i've read that amount a few times
aswell here are a couple shots of my truck it hauls but im at
the point now of trying to tweak the set up so the power can
be handled and controlled stock set up is pretty good but this
kit is mint and i just figger it can get better.....

[RC Longtime]

P2

[RC Longtime]

P3

[iwannarc]

I got my RC10-GT about a week ago and tomorrow I'm going to bring it to the track to practice for the first time. I've been runnin it around my neighborhood, but I am so excited to actually run on a track. Any suggestions besides take it slow the first couple laps? LAter

[BTE214]

Is that your reciever on top of the box? I think it supposed to go inside. lol At least that's the way i put it.;)

[stealthpenguin]

RCracer, that's a failsafe I believe, which prevents runaways in the case of battery failure, or going out of radio-range.

The thing on the steering servo is an onboard thermometer, which keeps a constant reading of the engines temperature.

[atm92484_3]

If any of you guys are looking for a really powerful engine for your GTs, take a serious look at the Wasp .12 offroads with the rear exhaust. I just installed one; all I can say is absolutely insane. :D

I wanna, taking it slow defiently helps, especially with 2wds. Just go at a pace where you can keep the truck on its wheels and slowly build up speed from there. Also, be sure to check your truck between runs for loose screws, loose diffs, and things like that. It really sucks having something break at the track...

[RC Longtime]

actually ya stealth is right its a failsafe. too much money
tied up in this thing to let it go off on a rip all alone....
it works pretty slick! worth the money to me anyway.

take-er ezz ...

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by iwannarc
I got my RC10-GT about a week ago and tomorrow I'm going to bring it to the track to practice for the first time. I've been runnin it around my neighborhood, but I am so excited to actually run on a track. Any suggestions besides take it slow the first couple laps? LAter

Only thing I can add that hasn't been said is, if there's a groove on the track, try your best to stay in it even if you have to drive slower.

Don't get caught up in speeding down the straights, that doesn't win races but staying in the groove "every lap" does. Going sideways in the turns looks cool but scrubs off time, roll thru them when you can. If there's a problem jump, don't force the issue... roll over it. If someone's on your tail, stay in the groove and make them run in the marbles to get around unless it's the leader and you're laps down in a main.

Remember, during the qualifiers, you're running against time and not the other guys. Run your own race at your own pace and avoild crashing.... keep in mind, it takes at least 4 seconds for a marshal to get you back on the track but making up that 4 seconds will probably take 4 minutes at a fast pace... that is, if you don't crash again.

Whatever happens just remember that this is suppose to be fun and that's why your there in the first place. Don't let the other drivers get you upset.

ps..... don't shake to much on the drivers stand and remember to blink once in awhile. ;)

Good luck and have fun!!!

[stealthpenguin]

atm, which do you think is more powerful? the MT-12, or the Wasp?

[chachi]

RC longtime:
do you have a problem with the steering servo horn hitting your RPM receiver box? i bought an RPM receiver box, mounted it, but it was interfering with the servo horn. is there a way around this?

[Zilla3boy]

don't shake to much on the drivers stand and remember to blink once in awhile.

LOL, yeah, that about sums it up. My first time up on the stand, I wasn't sure if I could stay standing, I was shaking so much. It didn't last long, though, by halfway through the first race, I was just having a blast and laughing like a lunatic! :D

Biggest thing to remember, it's all about fun, not winning, because if you walk away with a smile, you already won the best prize of the day.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by iwannarc
I got my RC10-GT about a week ago and tomorrow I'm going to bring it to the track to practice for the first time. .....

So just practice, not race yet?

If you can, get on the track while someone else is out there. The single best thing to learn to do in racing: learn to follow. This will teach you to slow down when coming into a turn so that you don't hit the car ahead of you (believe it or not it takes a lot of people a long time to WAKE UP to this fact, :D) it will teach you to calm down and concentrate better in traffic, and by following some other car's actions, some of their driving habits will wear off on you.

In an actual race, a follower is very unnerving. Sooner or later they will brain-fart and bite a wall and you can drive on by, nice and clean. :D

Also practice your approach to jumps. The ones that make you want to "nose in" you have to approach differently - my trick is to go at them full bore, then just as you hit the jump, tap the brake and get right back on the gas, this causes the nose to pitch back up as you leave the jump.

Get out there and race! :D

[iwannarc]

Thanks a lot guys! I dunno if anyone else will be out there, but I know it will be atleast me and my dad. I will try to learn the groove but I haven't seen the track in about 6 monthes and every-now-and-again they change the track up to make it more interesting.

[RC Longtime]

actually ya stealth is right its a failsafe. too much money
tied up in this thing to let it go off on a rip all alone....
it works pretty slick! worth the money to me anyway.

take-er ezz ...

[RC Longtime]

sorry guys the posting option seems a little quirky !
my bad ...

[stealthpenguin]

chachi:

I have the RPM Rx box too, and yes, my servo-saver hits it as well. To fix this, I used the EPA (End Point Adjustment) on my transmitter, so that when i turn right, it doesn't hit the box.

You can also turn down the dual-rate, which will turn down the range of motion of the servos.

[rocknbil]

Ok you guys don't laugh, this works GREAT.

OK go ahead and laugh. :D

Look at the steering servos on my electrics again. Note how the servo horn is facing straight DOWN toward the chassis. Why?

One of the things I didn't like about the 10T was the tight space for the servo that always left the servo turnbuckle approaching the linkage at an angle. No matter what you do, it would always steer more to one side than the other. By pointing the servo horn down and mounting the servo on the tops of RPM blocks, it puts the turnbuckle in a perfect straight line with the linkage.

No, it doesn't make the steerling wobbly, those are 110 oz/inch futabas and I can set it on the blocks and it doesn't move a bit.

I haven't had a chance to do this mod with our GT's yet, but it is a second option if you're out of room.

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html


Originally posted by iwannarc

.... dunno if anyone else will be out there, but I know it will be atleast me and my dad....

Ahh the memories . . Dad playing turn marshal for the kid . . . sorry but eventually I got tired and wanted to play with the RC myself. LOL

Hey it's a Saturday and it's going to be nice, expect some company. Speaking of which . . .

IT FINALLY STOPPED RAINING WOOO HOOOOOO . . .

We get to run our nitros right after I mow the lawn, cut up some more downed trees, tune up my pickup, clean out the shed, spray down the poison oak, fix the kitchen sink, give the dog a bath, build the patio awning, clean the pool, weed the walkways, do some web work, clean out all the air conditioning filters, and pick up two loads of quarry rock from the USFS quarry 6 miles up the mountain, woo hoo!

[geo8498]

So can anyone tell me what "bump-steer" means?

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
atm, which do you think is more powerful? the MT-12, or the Wasp?

I can't imagine the MT12 being much more powerful, especially since its been out for quite awhile.

Geo, to keep it simple, bump steer refers to the angle of the wheels changing when the suspension on the front of the truck compresses, hence the angle the truck steers at changes.

[iwannarc]

We didn't get to go today because my dad hasn't fixed HIS truck yet. That's right, my dad and I are going to be dualing it out. There is no way my dad would just sit there without wanting to play. It will be so much fun. I can't wait. My dad ran his truck for 15 mins. the other day and broke the lower rear control arm, threw out the drive shaft, and popped a shock off. Ahh, the joys of learning how to drive a nitro ST. LAter everyone.

[Floop]

I was out bashing around the back yard yesterday and I wrecked my 3rd spur gear. I almost think that it just got melted by the clutch bell gear. I stopped to add some fuel (without shutting the engine off) and when I started again it was starting to get stripped in one spot. Does it make sense that the clutch bell gear would get that hot just zipping around the backyard? There was a lot of stops and starts if that makes any difference. The worst part is that I had just installed that spur gear 30 minutes before.:confused: Any suggestions?

[GT4eva]

Floop, are you running the stock clutch? That setup creates major heat. Also, are you setting your mesh with a slight tick between the bell and the spur? I do that then rotate the spur all the way around checking for the tick in different areas.

That being said, I have been running GT's for several years and I can't make a Kimbrough spur gear last for more than 3 or 4 tanks. If you haven't already, try using the Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears - they are awesome and last for a long time.

[1tuffRC10]

floop, it's like GT4 said. The stock clutch is junk. Try a new set of AE bearings with the MIP clutch. I run my GT that way with a little trimmed off the clutch on the trailing edges. It will idle and rev more without engaging. Any bearings other than AE just aren't as good.

[stealthpenguin]

MIP clutch = awesome

[tipper]

Originally posted by Floop
I was out bashing around the back yard yesterday and I wrecked my 3rd spur gear. I almost think that it just got melted by the clutch bell gear. I stopped to add some fuel (without shutting the engine off) and when I started again it was starting to get stripped in one spot. Does it make sense that the clutch bell gear would get that hot just zipping around the backyard? There was a lot of stops and starts if that makes any difference. The worst part is that I had just installed that spur gear 30 minutes before.:confused: Any suggestions?

perfect sense in 1 month I went through 18 spur gear it was because my gear mesh was set to tight so when I excelerated to fast or when the clutch bell heated up it made the plastic soft so it would grind it right off. trust me I know tryed 8 spur gears to get it. try it see if it helps loosen the spur gear to it can slip a little bit

[tipper]

if anybody knows someone that want to buy a rc10gt then let me know at jarld@dccnet.com

[stealthpenguin]

How thick is the Factory Team chassis?

I want to buy this Team Bluestar silver chassis, which is 3mm thick.

[Floop]

Thanks all for the tips with the clutch / spur gear.

Do many of you use the Airtronics MX-3 FM radio with 94102Z servos? What are your thoughts on this radio setup?

I find the one that came with my GT (Jaguar, I think) seems to be junk. It will just stop responding for 30 - 45 seconds every now and again. Thank God it hadn't done it while at full throttle yet.:eek:

Ohh yeah, one more thing. What's the big deal with "Digital Servos"? Are they faster? More accurate? More powerfull?

Thanks,
Floop

[Floop]

Originally posted by tipper
try it see if it helps loosen the spur gear to it can slip a little bit

Is this what I've seen referred to as the "Slipper Clutch?"

Dumb question I'm sure but we all gotta start somewhere.:D

[tipper]

yes it is and not really good you know what now and yes digital is better I used the mx-3 with 2 didgital servos but they can me expensive mine were 100.00 each pluse radio.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i havent posted here in a while.alot has changed on my GT.i finaly upgraded the RTR chassis,put a fantom FR15 on it,reciever box,carbon fiber shock towers,and rebuilt just about the whole truck.

im gonna try to post some pictures

[ritchies rc10gt]

its a little dirty from running it today

[ritchies rc10gt]

last one

[hurikane85]

Im wondering if it is worth the extra money to get the factory team or get jus the Team version im planning on racing so i dont think the rtr is what i want unless its just as good.jus wondering wich is the bigger bang for the buck...

[atm92484_3]

The Factory Team is worth it. Its about $30 more (the cost of just the titanium turnbuckles) but you get a few really nice hop-ups.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
The Factory Team is worth it. Its about $30 more (the cost of just the titanium turnbuckles) but you get a few really nice hop-ups.

Agreed...... If you want to race, get the good stuff right from the start and be done with it.

[RC10's]

yeah FT definelt worth it, and in case you havent got the picture yet jaguar radios suck, do your self and your car a favor and get anything else.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by iwannarc
....ran his truck for 15 mins. the other day and broke the lower rear control arm, threw out the drive shaft, and popped a shock off.....

Well then either he was running it in the street . . or it's a Losi!!!

LOL

[IFLYBYU]

Hi Guys,

Does anyone know of a battery box for the GT? I wiould like to get one and loose the ziptie bumper.

Thanks
Mike

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by geo8498
So can anyone tell me what "bump-steer" means?

I thought you guys would jump on this one. Anyway, it's when the suspenxsion compresses, changing the toe-out, affecting your steering.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/longtech3.htm

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/TC3Archives.pdf

[chachi]

for all the associated fans (and also to those who think the gt is becoming an outdated truck):

yesterday was the mains for the vancouver leg of of the western canadian trophy race series. associated trucks placed 1, 2 and 4 out of the top 5, with a mugen in 3rd and a losi in 5th. the a main was 51 minutes (107 laps). the track was gnarly, rough, loose, and generally designed for 1/8th scale buggies. good fun all around.

[Polk]

Originally posted by ritchies rc10gt
its a little dirty from running it today

Dude, dirty is sexy!!!!!!!

[tipper]

http://oakranger8@hotmail.com

[iwannarc]

Well then either he was running it in the street . . or it's a Losi!!!

Actually, it's a team RC10-GT with an Omega .12 on it. He ran into a stainless steel fence post at about 30 mph. That's why it broke. It wasn't on the street either. It was behind my house in some loose dirt and the throttle can turn the car quicker than he can....so...he's gotta fix it. I put a dent in my header yesterday. I don't know how though. As you can tell, we run our trucks a little hard. LAter

[SST'99Pro]

this is the truck i told you about some post before....
let's see if it works.....;)

[Polk]

Oh god!!!

My eyes!!!!

*scoops eyes out with spoon*

:p

[tipper]

when did why make a electric gt

[hurikane85]

is there any word of a updated gt coming out? i want to get a gt but i dont wanna make the same mistake i did wit the b3 an spend some dough an here o crap the b4 is due out soon..

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by iwannarc
.....As you can tell, we run our trucks a little hard. LAter

Well have fun RC!

[tipper]

Originally posted by hurikane85
is there any word of a updated gt coming out? i want to get a gt but i dont wanna make the same mistake i did wit the b3 an spend some dough an here o crap the b4 is due out soon..

I have seen some pics of the new one and it is almost the same just a cuple more aluminum parts almost the same design same chassis better or buying a new or used I am selling min e-mail me for some pics at jarld@dccnet.com, my truck was rebuilt a couple weeks ago haven't used it but put 400.00 of new stuff on it with engine

[atm92484_3]

Where are these pics of this so called new GT?

[dog8spam]

Does anyone know of a battery box for the GT? I wiould like to get one and loose the ziptie bumper.

That is exactly what I was hoping people would think. I have written G code for one I made and have to get it loaded to the machine and work out the bugs. I'll send you one if I get it to work.

[Polk]

Me too!!!

I cant afford a Ni-Cad pack and im wasting to many battery holders!! I need a battery box!

[offroadcrazy01]

My cvd's come out easy from my outdrive if the back end of my truck takes two many hit any one have troble like this before any info would help

[Railman]

Stealthpenguin,
A while back you asked how the std chassis (FTGT) compared in thickness to the Team Bluestar. The FTGT is .096", & the Teambluestar is .121". That makers it .025" thicker, & weighs in right at 1 oz heavier. It would weigh a little bit more, but they chopped off the stiffening flare on the clutch side, probably because it's just too difficult to bend both angles on that heavy stock. I think it's still stiffer than stock, especially where the most flex comes from. I didn't want to second guess on mine, so I added a 1/2" x .140 aircraft alum strip from in front of the rear block to about 1" onto the side flare to mine. That to stiffened it where they removed the side flare, & it ended up rock solid in the rear. There is no detectable change in gear mesh, no matter how you try to flex it. The FtGT is way better than the tub on maintain the mesh, & is arguably good enough, but it's still not what it can be.
The hard part in fabricating the added piece is to get it to fit the flat bottom, & the flare around the bend, at the same time. Once I got the piece to fit, & just clamped it in place, & just drilled (after deciding layout) a hole the size needed for a 4-40 tap, & drilled the first hole. Once I tappped the chassis, & drilled out the added plate for the 4-40 to slide through, I inserted the first screw to hold everything for perfect alignment, & then repeated the process for the rear hole, & then the rest. I used three 4-40's on the front part, 4 on the clutch side, & installed it with a healthy application of red Locktite.
It's your call as to whether it's worth the hassle to add the allum brace. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to get mine the way I wanted, & I'm fairly good at fabricating stuff.:D
Joe

[Railman]

Offroadcrazy.
Try to shim the inside of the axle between the bearing & the axle flange (part where bearing rides against). Check your wheel camber, & make shure it's either a little negative, or not leaning outward. The other thing you can do is add internal shock limites, to stop the shocks from going to full extension. The rear blocks have a tendancy to work loose, & pull the bone out of the outdrive. Worn cvd's can add to the problem, but not that much. That's pretty much the easiest fixes.

There is another way but it's a lot of work, & if you don't have the spare parts laying around, it can be rather expensive. I used... ahmmmm, cough, cough, Losi CR axles with the std 1 1/2' GT hub carriers, & used the std GT bones. It ends up looking like the B4 setup with the big aluminum washer behind the axle pin. The factory guys have been doing this for years. Some even used one of the Losi hub carriers. I think it was the GTX, but I'm not shure. Once you have the Losi axle, you can shim the inside some to shove the bone into the outdrive a bit more.
Joe

[Railman]

ATM,
I've also heard rumors of one in the works, but I bet it's at least a year off, & as long as they continue to have success with the present platform, they won't be in a big rush. It will definately be after the T4 comes out, & it's still in early planning stages now.

This is second hand info, but the only ones who know for shure are the guys at Assoc. The thing about the T4 is, they've already got the bulk of the work done in the B4.
Joe

[RC10's]

Yeah a new GT is lower on priorities at AE. The B4 just came out, the T4 is on its way (supposedly), and the monster GT is still in development. Between all that its gonna be at least a year before a new GT (thats just my number)

[Railman]

Offroadcrazy,
One more thing to check is for a bent rear hingepin. That's probably what caused mine to chip an outdrive on my GT & it's probably what caused my son's to come out at the races yesterday. He sheared a 8-32 block screw, & then the drive came out the next heat. At first we didn't realize the pin was bent though, so he just replaced the screw.
Joe

[1tuffRC10]

railman, I've trimmed up my suspension block and a blind nut to have a metal insert inside the suspension block. It works great, won't strip out and with a little locktite it'll never come loose. With a stainless screw, it won't shear off either.

[IFLYBYU]

Originally posted by dog8spam
That is exactly what I was hoping people would think. I have written G code for one I made and have to get it loaded to the machine and work out the bugs. I'll send you one if I get it to work.

Thanks dogspam,
Keep me up to date on your progress, I kno a few people at the track that might be interested in purchasing one after they see it.

Thanks
Mike

[Railman]

1tuffRC10,
Good tips!
Actually I did the insert trick on my 1st GT. It was so old it still had the white blocks. The only problem was that the block broke when someone stepped onto the track at the end of a long staight, & I creamed him. The block broke from being thinned down at the insert. I used a blind insert also...the steel kind with the 4 teeth on the back side. It's probably the kind your refering to. I cut the teeth off, trimmed the block down at the spur gear, & ground off most of the excess metal to clear the spur.

After breaking the block though I had to decide which was the greater evil, & opted for usinng jamb nuts instead. The only hard one to do is the one at the spur gear. I now run 14 x 64 gears for a cool clutch, more weight over the rear, & killer punch with my MT12, so it's easier to get a little clearance above the spur block screw. I almost did mine like you said again. I even pulled out my old shattered block to check it out, & dug up an insert to do it. One nice thing about the Team Bluestar is that there is about 1/16" of untapered hole at the block screws, which should help out the the problem. My son is running the std flat team chassis though.
One more thing I found to be a great help is to use an adhesive when mounting the block. I use a semi flexable eclectic glue. It has super adhesion properties. It reduces the tendancy fo the block to shift around. I ran about 1 1/2 qts through mine at a race sunday, & the only screw or nut that came loose was the rear wheel nuts. I just need to fine tune the rear axle bearing shim a bit so I can torque the nut down tighter. I have had a tendancy to destroy the wheel hubs on my gt lately.

I have considered adding another screw & jamb nut on the spur gear side, but what I have now seems to do very well. Maybe the ultimate answer wold be a continous plate across the top, with the holes threaded for the 8-32 screws. The top of the block would just need to be thinned down to accomidate the added plate.

BTW...Where did you get your SS screws? I used some from a hardware store on my blocks, but I had to do a little grinding to get them to seat in the chassis counterbore. The std Assoc screws have a different taper to them than a std 8-32 screw. Did your SS screws seat in like the stock ones?
Later,
Joe

[xtreme]

I have gotten a hold of a used RC10GT that I believe has been slowly converted to a FT. I believe it has the Factory Team Teflon sealed bearings(white mesh seal). How do you clean these bearings? I tried taking one of the seals off but it looks like it is going to rip. Do I have to take the seals off to clean them? Will the cleaner destroy the seals? And once you clean them, what oil do you relube with?

Basically, do I treat these bearings any differently from other bearings?

Thanks,

Scott

[rcaddiction]

Does anyone make a good premount for an RC10GTFT running CVDs that will work well on a low traction dry track with a loose top layer? I hate glueing tires (I'm horrible at it). Will Losi wheels fit? Thanks!

[ross]

I heard that they would be releasing it at this years Chicago Hobby Show, which is sometime around October. But then I also heard yesterday from the same guy who told me that, that it is a long way off now because they dont even have a final design done yet.

[Railman]

Rc,
Losi wheels will fit, but the offset (depth from rim edge to drive pin slot), is deeper by about 1/4" on a Losi rim. The problem is that it might rub on the hub carrier, & end up being 1/2 " narrower on the out to out tire dim.
Joe

[rcaddiction]

Hmm. Maybe I should just learn to glue tires. Panther is releasing a step pin mounted on RPM rims sometime "soon" according to thier website but I don't know much about thier product.

[dog8spam]

but they chopped off the stiffening flare on the clutch side, probably because it's just too difficult to bend both angles on that heavy stock. I think it's still stiffer than stock, especially where the most flex comes from.

The flares is what gives a chassis most of its strength if its completely flat there is no way its stronger. Thats why your chassis will bend where the flare ends up front in a minor wreck. If one day your body doesnt fit, and you cant figure it out, thats it.

[atm92484_3]

Thats what I was thinking Railman. If there was truely one in the works, I am sure something would have leaked out by now due to the fame of the truck. Plus it seems like AE has a few months lag between the time the prototype is first shown and the time the car hits the market (anything from the less than 6 month time of the B4 all the way up to the 1+ year wait for the Nitro TC3). Either way, I'm getting the first one I can get my hands on. :-D

[Floop]

I learned a valuable lesson yesterday. Well two actually... it's likely a good idea to keep the body on when jumping my GT just in case it lands upside down,:rolleyes: and I should probably keep a spare shock tower on-hand since my LHS doesn't stock them.

Can anyone suggest a good shock tower as a replacement for mine? Links would be appreciated as well.

Thanks,
Floop (or flop, as it turned out yesterday):(

[iwannarc]

How much to body posts costs because I bent one of my rear body posts the other day and it is harder to put the body on now? LAter

[stealthpenguin]

I'm sorry Railman, I kinda got lost in your explanation of how you added a flair to the Bluestar chassis.

So, can you tell me this: [b]Will the Bluestar chassis have less flex?[b/]

[Polk]

Heres a link for the RPM body mounts, garanteed unbreakable like all RPM parts: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV48&P=7

Ive wasted my body and mounts by landing to many times upside down as well :(

Heres a pic of my wasted body:

[rocknbil]

Holy SHHHHH**********! What is it, a month old?? It sure looks like you had some fun!!! :D

Hey I'll see about throwing in some old bodies I got around when your parts come in, no promises though, that kind of changes the shipping aspect of things . . . .

[hoytshooter]

Railman, you can get stainless screws from www.mcmaster.com
You need 100 degree heads to fit associated's countersinks. Just search for stainless 100 degree on their site. You have to buy in quantities of 100 but it is pretty cheap and it is nice to have extra screws handy.:D

[offroadcrazy01]

thank you for the tips guys,Railman did you sale two cars on e-bay

[Railman]

Hoytshooter,
Thanks for the 100 deg info. I didn't have a clue what angle the std Assoc screw was. I guess it's time to stock up on them!
Joe

[Railman]

Stealth,
I'd say it's probably a little stronger in the rear, but it would definately be way stronger in the front. The reason I can't say for shure is I added the stacked alum strip befre I put mine together.
If it doesn't feel right to you, you could always add something similar to what I did. I used a hacksaw, belt sander, file, drill & tap to do mine. The beltsander is optional. You could also use flat head screws from the bottom up, with just nuts on top ( no cherry though!) :rolleyes:
Joe

[Railman]

I forgot to mention that even though the overall quality of the Team Bluestar chassis was near perfect, with excellent hole matchups, the front kickup angle was not steep enough for the front tube standoffs to line up, & it didn't match the stock angle. It was an easy fix though. I just stood a piece of metal up vertically, & layed the chassis bend over it. Then I just hit it firmly with a16 oz hammer a few times, till the angle was right. It took about two minutes & it was perfect.
Joe

[Railman]

Offroad,
No not me. I need to sell some stuff though, If I can ever sort through everything. It seems like I just keep acumulating more & more!
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

Um, well, is that true for all their chassis?

If I will ask them b4 I buy it, and maybe they can sort it out for me.

[1tuffRC10]

Wow this place got busy tonight. Good tips all. I use the RPM blocks with those inserts. And no I haven't got the right angle of screw in it either. It's not that bad. Haven't broke anything, so far. I don't use ball cups either so nothing will give. Won the main two weeks ago and finished second at my home track (first race there, new track) last week. I sure hope my luck holds out! LOL

About those rear wheel nuts, they are the problem. Never tighten the crap out of them. You'll bind the bearings no matter how you space it. If you remove lock nuts about 5 times, replace them. I don't replace them like I should either LOL And my RPM body mounts are over a year old. They have lived through three chassis.

[Railman]

1tuffRC10,
Do the rpm blocks have any anti squat? The stock ones are 3 deg toe, & 2 deg antsqt.
Joe

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Holy SHHHHH**********! What is it, a month old?? It sure looks like you had some fun!!! :D

Hey I'll see about throwing in some old bodies I got around when your parts come in, no promises though, that kind of changes the shipping aspect of things . . . .

Whatever dude, im easy.

Shall I paypal the amount of $50 for you now?

:D

[stealthpenguin]

Dude, Railman, TeamBluestar said that they aren't aware of the problem, so I think I'll take their word for it and I'm gonna buy the chassis.

[Polk]

Uh-oh, this doesnt look to good....

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
...shall I paypal the amount of $50 for you now?...

Sure, the parts should come in tomorrow, sorry for not checking email more frequently but have been working on a big Flash project, getting to bed on the average at 4 AM.

....Uh-oh, this doesnt look to good....

Hard to see, is that a melt spot or a crack?

If it's just a tranny case I have tons of spare cases, used but still good. Will throw those in *sigh*

Polk you are rough on GT's. :D

[Railman]

Stealth,
What's with the Dude stuff?:confused:

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Hard to see, is that a melt spot or a crack?

If it's just a tranny case I have tons of spare cases, used but still good. Will throw those in *sigh*

Polk you are rough on GT's. :D

Lol, yeah its a tranny case, those little cricled bits have broken off....

I havent been hard on it this week! ITS BEEN BLOODY RAINING ALL THE TIME ARRRGGHHH!!!!!

[stealthpenguin]

I dunno, just felt like saying "dude" :p

[doesgo]

Originally posted by Floop
I learned a valuable lesson yesterday. Well two actually... it's likely a good idea to keep the body on when jumping my GT just in case it lands upside down,:rolleyes: and I should probably keep a spare shock tower on-hand since my LHS doesn't stock them.

Can anyone suggest a good shock tower as a replacement for mine? Links would be appreciated as well.

Thanks,
Floop (or flop, as it turned out yesterday):(
I did the exact same thing last weekend, Floop. Twice, actually! I forgot my body at home and broke my stock plastic shock tower, then broke my replacement composite one, too!

I won't forget my body again anytime soon, it's too expensive.

[Floop]

Is it worthwhile to buy the Associated graphite shock towers at 2.5 times the cost of the stock one? Are there alluminum (sp?) ones available that I should look at?

[1tuffRC10]

floop, I am running the team shock towers now. Someone said to run two of them together. Maybe a little ca glue in the middle.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Floop
Is it worthwhile to buy the Associated graphite shock towers at 2.5 times the cost of the stock one? Are there alluminum (sp?) ones available that I should look at?

If you go aluminum, check out Team Bluestar's, they're cheaper than most. We have then fitted all around BUT if you're too rough on your GT them they definately will bend.

[Polk]

PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/adrianfu/car.html

That is including todays hard out bashing session at the BMX track, wild jumping!!

Most of those are when it was bone stock but my GT now proudly displays:

RPM Reciver box
RPM front arms
RPM front bumper (large, almost gives GT reverse!)
RPM Ball cups
HG Titanium tranny brace
MIP 2 temp gauge

and coming in mail

RPM bulkhead
RPM suspension mount
RPM body mounts

and a MIP 4n1 clutch which is sitting on the shelve cause im not sure how to install it, and im to lazy to install it!

:D

[illmatic]

Hey im a nitro noob, and I have a question.Im about to trade some tires/wheels and some cash for a rc10gt. Here is the link:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=14607&cat=500&thumb=1 What do you guys think? This is the older model right? And if so what can i do to upgrade, as far as chassis,or any other upgrades? Could i have a list of things to do. Anything would be a big help.

[dog8spam]

Heres a pic of my wasted body:
I dont even tear up bodies that fast! The body I have now sags when the car is on its lid. For the back where the rear posts go in cut out a thick piece of cardboard and just stick it on the body posts.

they definately will bend.
Can you hammer them back?

Also are the team shock towers the carbon fiber ones?

illmatic, thats the blacktub, you will want a factory team chassis definately. Besides that it should be good to go. Of course there are other hop-ups you will want, but as far as I can remember it is about the same as some ot the new ones. Although it might not have bearings... I think my kit was bushings. Youll want bearings if it doesnt have any.

[doesgo]

Why is the tub chassis so bad? Obviously AE replaced it with the flat chassis at some point, but why is the flat chassis so much better?

I've also got a tub chassis (full bearings) and am considering the $50 upgrade to the flat chassis, but I'm wondering why it's better.

[doesgo]

Oh, and the factory team shock tower is the composite plastic one, not the graphite. The composite is about $8, the graphite is about $18.

[rcaddiction]

My front wheels shake at speed. I just glued my first set of tires so I thought that might be it, so I took a brand new bare set of Pro-Line Velocity front fims, stuck my bearings in them and mounted them. When I spin the wheel the same thing happens.
This truck was used when I got it. Do you think it's the axles that are bent, or maybe something wrong with the bearings? The wheels fit tight but you can see the rotation is wobbly. Thanks!

[Railman]

RC,
It's pretty much a given that the wheels will need to be balanced. It's rare that they don't. Just add some lead weight to the middle of the inside of the rim. Against the webs is the most secure spot. If you have fairly free spinning bearings, you can do this right on the truck. Just slowly spin the wheel, & watch how it lopes. When the wheel stops, mark the top of the rim with a marker (non permanent black Flair is my favorite). That's where you put the weight. I use small pieces of lead roof flashing, but you can buy weights at your hobby store, or at a golf pro shop (nice self stick stuff, but pricey!). It usually only takes a small amount, but it's still a trial by error method. I use ca to glue the lead, because it's an instant cure, but shoe goo, or similar would also work well.
Joe

[Railman]

Doesgo,
The factory team is the graphite sheet tower. We have three of them. I've never even seen the plastic ones.

As far as the tub vs the flat chassis, the ftgt flat chassis is 1/4" longer, is std with 1 1/2' hubs, with 3deg toe in + 2 deg rear blocks. These alone makes a huge differeence in handling, especially in the rough. It is also a lot more flex resisitant than the tub. The gear mesh will definately be less likely to change when hitting bumps with the new design.The rear blocks tend to stay put better due to the improved 3 hole design, & meatier plate. That's not to say the tub can't be made to be fast, it's just that the new flat chassis kits improves many problem areas of the tub. For $50 the full upgrade kit is a bargain, but if you like yours like it is, stay with it. Just my $02
Joe.

[doesgo]

Thanks for the clarification on this stuff, Joe.

Sorry about that, I could have sworn I grabbed the fiberglass "composite" tower and that it said "Factory Team" on it, but that was indeed the graphite one.

I got my tub GT well-used, but it had the funky plastic tower on it. I broke it last weekend and replaced it with #7654 which is the 1/8" thick fiberglass "sheet" one that I erroneously referred to as "plastic composite".

Maybe I'll just be quiet now. :rolleyes:

I like the way you say stuff, Joe. Basically "this is better for these reasons, but if you like yours like it is, stay with it." I hate it when people say their junk or idea is the best ever and if you don't get in line behind them, you're an idiot. Drives me nuts.

I'm an all-out basher, and a bad one at that, so handling is not very important since I'm on different terrain each time I run whether it's pavement, dirt, grass, jumping, whatever.

The resistance to flex is appealing, as is the physical appearance of the flat chassis. I haven't had any mesh issues yet that I know of, but I think I'll add the flat chassis conversion kit to the ol' wish list anyway, sounds like a nice birthday present to myself. :D

Do you know the Trinity chassis brace/non-pull motor mount for the tub chassis will work on the flat chassis?

Thanks for the help.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by rcaddiction
My front wheels shake at speed. I just glued my first set of tires so I thought that might be it, so I took a brand new bare set of Pro-Line Velocity front fims, stuck my bearings in them and mounted them. When I spin the wheel the same thing happens.
This truck was used when I got it. Do you think it's the axles that are bent, or maybe something wrong with the bearings? The wheels fit tight but you can see the rotation is wobbly. Thanks!

rcaddiction,
It took me years to figure out how to glue tires correctly.
It takes more then just shoving the foams in and glueing the tires to the rims. I fiddle around with the foam after I insert it in the tire for 15 minutes or more to get it perfectly centered and uniform. Then I put the tire on the rim and spin to look for shake and try to kneed the foam around while it's in the tire and on the rim to get it right. I usaully take the tires out of the box and the foams out of the tires and let them set for a few days before I even mess with them.

All in all, I think Pro-line has had quality issues a few years back and still let a few nasty sets of tires/rims slip by to date. I know for a fact that some of the bigger names will buy many sets of tires and mix and match the tires to find the best pair. I've had to return Velosity rims as well as tires because they were so screwed up I couldn't use them. After a year or so of experiance and pain staking care to get the everything perfect, I very seldom need to balance the tires. What little whobble I do have once in awhile doesn't concern me because I'm not that good of a driver to notice and the off road tracks I race at aren't that smooth.

Glueing tires is an art of it's own, some have it right away and some never do get it.

[Railman]

Just a few notes on tire glueing. Try turning the foam inside out, & cutting a small amount off the foam (1/4"x 1/4"), off the corner, & then turn it rightside out for glueing. What that does is keeps the foam from trying to ride over the bead area when glueing. It really makes a big difference. Then I just stick the foam in the tire, & ppull it over the rim. Then I pull each side of the tire toward the center of the rim, so that you can see the bead area of the rim on each side. Then I work it for a minute to even out the foam, & somewhat compress it inward. After that, & place each tire bead where it belongs (in bead area of rim), & work it a little more. Then I wrap it with rubber bands directly over the bead area. How you glue it from there depends on the type of glue you use...thin or medium. I can usually hit the whole side pretty good with just two opposeing points with thin glue. Most like the medium stuff though. Just my $.02.

BTW,
Earlier I meant to say the new rear blocks have 3 deg toe in, & 2 deg anti squat, which has become std on most high end racing trucks. The old ones had 0 deg anti squat.
Joe

[Polk]

Hey all

A kyosho car kit is a box that you can buy from tower ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=sb1110&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go ) that has all the screws, nuts, bolts etc for kyosho kits.

Is one of these avalible for a RC10GT?

Thanks

[rocknbil]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKV0&P=0

I wouldn't use aluminum screws in high-stress areas, though.

Heavyweight, still all aluminum
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3329&P=0

I just got a Racer's Edge set from eBay, all stainless steel, for about $10, PN RE 9200.

[Polk]

Whats wrong with having alu screws in high stress areas?

Whats the differnce between those to links?

:D

[doesgo]

I just went to the hardware store and bought a pile of Phillips stainless 4-40 screws of various lengths for the GT. I don't know if the head pitch is dead-on, but they sure fit the chassis countersinks nice. Cheap, too - around ten cents each.

And best of all, no more 1/16" Allen heads!

[ross]

Originally posted by Polk
Whats wrong with having alu screws in high stress areas?

Whats the differnce between those to links?

:D

Aluminium is quite a soft metal compared to steel so heads and threads can strip easily. I use the steel ones and has long as you get a good set of allen drivers you should have no problems will them. If your still using the L shape keys then throw them away.

Im not sure what the difference is between the two links but they have different part numbers.

[dog8spam]

I like the way you say stuff, Joe. Basically "this is better for these reasons, but if you like yours like it is, stay with it." I hate it when people say their junk or idea is the best ever and if you don't get in line behind them, you're an idiot. Drives me nuts.
So do I! and if you dont like that your an idiot!:D :D

Hardware stores/catalouges are deffinately the way to go. McMaster Carr is my favorite company. You can get 100 steel screws for under a dollar. I also get bearings, body clips, washers, nuts, TOOLS GALORE, you name it. The selection is awesome. The best part is next-day shipping for free, or at least where I live. I have all the screws on the bottom of the chassis replaced with flat heads, which are almost imposable to strip out.

Ill shutup now and get to what I got on here to say, I'm making some bumpers similar to the one in the pic, if it works. I couldn't get stock like the one in the pic, and I dont have the camera. The stock for the new ones are flat and a little taller. It will fit on any GT, besides the RPM bumper. If yall think there is a market for these I might start selling on eBay.

[dog8spam]

:mad: let me try something else.

[dog8spam]

df dsadf

http://C:\My Documents\cartoputonint.jpg

[dog8spam]

C:\My Documents\cartoputonint.jpg

[dog8spam]

ÿØÿà

[dog8spam]

Im not getting anywhere.

[illmatic]

Hey got another question. Well if the rc10gt im getting is a tub chassis, which chassis should i get the non pullstart or pullstart kit?I saw these 2 upgrade kits at have no idea which one i should get. Remember iam new to nitro. These kits i saw were athttp://www.rcboyz.com . Please help.

[Polk]

Lol!!!!

:D:D

Email it to me, ill put it up for you:
adrianf@paradise.net.nz

[Floop]

Has anybody used one of these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX13&P=K)? What do you think of it?

[dog8spam]

Ive gotten pics to work before, it may just be my computer. It would start to work then would say CIG timeout or Proxy Error. I will just try again when I get the camera and take another pic.

[rcaddiction]

Thanks for the tire glueing tips, I appreciate it!

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Floop
Has anybody used one of these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX13&P=K)? What do you think of it?


that clutch is great!! when i first got mine it used to aggravate me cuz it wouldnt stay in one spot unless i had the brake on.switched to the MIP clutch and everything was better.most of us here have come to the conclusion that the MIP clutch is one of the best hopups for the GT

[GT4eva]

Earlier I meant to say the new rear blocks have 3 deg toe in, & 2 deg anti squat, which has become std on most high end racing trucks. The old ones had 0 deg anti squat.

Joe, could you exlain anti squat to me? I've been running GT's for a few years but I'm still years behind you... you have these things figured out! I'm running the RPM rear arm mounts and if they don't have the 2 degrees of anti squat, I should go back to the stock blocks, right?

thanks

[offroadcrazy01]

check this site out http://users.pandora.be/elvo/bug/print.htm

[GT4eva]

Great link! Thank you!

I see the effect anti squat has on handling but what exactly is it?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
...and a MIP 4n1 clutch which is sitting on the shelve cause im not sure how to install it, and im to lazy to install it!

POLK! I figgered that's one of the first things you'd put in, everyone seems to love them . . . . here's your instructions . . . .

http://www.miponline.com/ins4N1.html

Your parts came in today, sorry won't be able to ship them until Tuesday, we have a national holiday here Monday, and I'll throw in the tranny case and some other extras.

Floop everyone really loves the MIP and says the stocks are crap. I ran my stock against my wife's MIP for quite a few months and if it's set right and you maintain your clutch bearings I never had a problem with the stock and don't see that big a difference now that I have the MIP in.

But it has to be better. Everyone says so. :D

Anyway Polk to install it you will need to press the clutch pins so they are flush with the back of the flywheel, it's best to do that in a bench vise or something, that's the only difficult part.

[Polk]

Maybe Ill do it this week since my GT is out of action till i get a new dogbone...(rocknbil!!!!)

:D

[Polk]

ARGH!!!

How do you get the flywheel pins to the be flush with the rear of the flywheel?

Ive tryed putting the flywheel in a vice, then tightnening the vice as tight as it will go then hitting the vice handle with a hammer to make it even tighter, THEY AINT MOVING!!!



HELP!

[bubbastump]

check this out
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/forum/upload/index.php?

[atm92484_3]

Polk, don't waste your time trying to push them back. Just get a Dremel and cut them off.

[Polk]

Polk, don't waste your time trying to push them back. Just get a Dremel and cut them off.


I dont have one...

[LEADFOOT]

Mark the new height with a scribe (or pencil, whatever) and then use a pair of pliers w/ the wire cutting area (dykes, linesman, or needle-nose pliers) and cut them off!

[Polk]

OKay..

I managed to hit, er, smash the pins to flush with the back of the flywheel and now have the clutch on it. But is it ment to stick up away from the flywheel like this?

Thanks

[Floop]

Is it OK to use varsol to clean my engine (both intenal and external)? Will the plastic parts of my GT be damaged by it if it touchs them?

[Polk]

ROCKNBIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I broke something else!!!!!

*hides im shame*

I think its the servo saver...

[rocknbil]

Holy s$#% you break things faster than I can get them in the envelope. :D

Dogbones too?

*sigh* takes the long walk back to the spares box . . . opens the envelope . . .


:D

We'll fix you up, but I have to run out of parts eventually. Anyway the servo arm is a rare one, I seem to always have 3 of the 4 plastic parts involved there, and always missing the one I need. Will look.

By the way, see that silver thumbscrew on the top? That's your servo saver, loosen that puppy up a tad so it gives on a hard hit and it won't break as easily.

ON THE MIP: there is supposed to be a tiny gap, that may be too much or it may be OK. You have to completely reassemble and get your clutch bell on, WITH the clip, see if it still spins free and has just a little endplay.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Polk I suggest you buy in bulk, buy at least three of the part that you break, I dont visit this forum that much but every time I do I see a picture of somthing broken on your gt.

[Polk]

Hehehe

Funny cause its true.:(

I bash, and I bash hard!

[Railman]

Polk,
What are you using to clean your GT? You've broken things I've never seen break...in particular the top tranny screw posts. It looks like damage from a chlorinated solvent. Chlorinated solvents will destroy many palstics. I've used some dry lubes that used chlorinatred solvents as an evaporative agent, that totally exploded parts of a mitre saw, just by spraying it.
The adjustment of the servo saver is critical. Most don't spend enough time keeping them just right. If too loose, it won;t want to turn under a hard turn, but if too tight, all sorts of things will break. I raced at a track yesterday that had a 15'L x 5' H table top followed by another 4 ' jump . We were clearing both 35 to 40'. It was insane! In over one hr of driving, I landed pretty much every wrong way imaginable, & nothing broke. That was with a plastic geared (JR4750) servo. Although I used to, I don't use a servo saver on my servo either. You need to change something though, or you'll spend all your time fixin stuff, & none driving!

On the clutch..you need too trim a little off, untill the clutch shoes rest against the flywheel, without the pins touching the spring. You could do as sugested by a few here & use some type of wire cutters. You could also use some sort of sander (belt or rotary), grinder, drill with a stone, or even a file will work. They definately need to be cut down though.
Joe

[Jamedup]

I've broke the tranny brace off the tranny like that once. I was out in a pit running my retired racer without the body on and not cutting anything any slack.

I've also broke the steering bellcrank like that as well, by pulling the turn buckle off when I was p!$$ed at my wife.

[Polk]

Well....................

I broke the servo saver by popping the ball cup that goes onto it by not using pliers cause they were in the car and i was tolazy to get them.

I clean the GT with water and compressed air, so I dont know how the trany case could of broken.

Also, another thing I have noticed, is that my nice new HG tranny brace has bent, just a little near the back screw holes. Could this be cause its not attached the the trannny case?

Oh well...at least Im having fun!!

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres a few pics of my project .21 GT.its an ofna picco O1 on it.how fast do you guys think i can get it to go?

[ritchies rc10gt]

#2

[ritchies rc10gt]

#3

[ritchies rc10gt]

#4

[ritchies rc10gt]

#5 last one for now

[RC10's]

that looks so rediculously large in there....you should put something like a 10 tooth clutch bell and see if you can get the entire thing to flip over backwards at full throttle, then gear it to like a 22 and go 50....fun times....

[johnybravo129]

Its not gonna be that fun to drive... I had a schumacher fusion with an OFNA .21 in it. It was WAY to top heavy. It handled really goofy. But, if all your looking for is power and speed, then you will have fun. My schuie would rip wheelies when the ground was wet, it was nuts.

[Polk]

Jeeeezhave fun going in straight lines with that cause thats all your gonna do! If you try and turn it wil either flip right over, or handle like a pig.....


Oh well....

[ritchies rc10gt]

im going for pure straight line speed and see how high i can launch it off of the jumps.or just plain beat the snots out of it.its gonna handle real bad anyways cuz its built out of all my worn out parts and RTR chassis from when i rebuilt the whole truck.

heres a pic of what its pretty much gonna look like.it isnt pretty!

[ritchies rc10gt]

and heres a pic of both rc10s

[dog8spam]

I would gear it up alot, the top end of a .21 wont be much higher than a .12. What all do you have in there? Ive never seen half the stuff on your truck. Lastly clean up those metal shavings. They hurt anything they get into. I noticed the diff was gone I would check if any got in there.

[bad viking]

Hi all dudes with the rockin car!!
(for those of you wh are stupid, the RC10GT)

I have broken one of my Factory Team CVDs.
If i replace the little,but damn irretating part that has fallen of it, will it be as good as those uppgradestuff you can buy from for example MIP?

Bad Viking

[ritchies rc10gt]

its the same engine that i run on my ofna dominator,the fuel tank came from the dominator,the front suspension is off of my POS nitro rush.the rubber pipe is from the rush,i dont know where the pipe came from.the exhaust is temporary till i get a .21 header and shorter pipe

the dif is in the other GT untill i get new dif rings so i can put the new dif togther for it.then i put the old dif in the .21 GT.i know i gotta clean it,i was still cuttin and drilling.

i havent seen it done around my area,i had all the parts to do it so i did it.ill probably end up gearing it 18/62 or 20/62.for now itll end up being 15/66,cuz i have the steel gears.

[stealthpenguin]

I finally wore out my Dirthawg II's (which I never thought I would), and I was wondering what other tires would be good for on-road/off-road use. I need a tire that will last practically forever, and will be good for road especially.

I was thinking about the Masher 2k's, what do you guys think?

[SST'99Pro]

hi evyryone.... I'm now the prowd owner of a RC10gt. it is used but still is a rc10gt. my question is: can someone please post a link or a pic of an exploded diagram for this truck (especialy this version if possible)?? i would aprecciate any kind of help. I'm just asking for it because there is some missing parts and i don't now what part umber is......
:D thanks and keep it running.......

[SST'99Pro]

hi evyryone.... I'm now the prowd owner of a RC10gt. it is used but still is a rc10gt. my question is: can someone please post a link or a pic of an exploded diagram for this truck (especialy this version if possible)?? i would aprecciate any kind of help. I'm just asking for it because there is some missing parts and i don't now what part umber is......
:D thanks and keep it running.......

[rocknbil]

WOoooowww ROOLage, an original with white parts, fiberglas towers, gold shocks, three-piece wheels and EVERYTHING!!! DUDE you should clean that thing up and STOW it, save your money and buy another one to race with but keep that one as new as possible, it looks like it's in very good shape.

By the way welcome aboard. :-) Someone else was asking the same thing, AE used to have it on their site but pulled it, here click this thread and scroll to the bottom:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=127302

[SST'99Pro]

thanks a lot rocknbill! I think i will use this one for bashing but i will put in it some new parts, like yhe chassis upgrade and many others.... i will make a list of new parts to buy and will post it here just to now your experienced opinion.
Once again thanks for the help.
:cool:

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by bad viking


I have broken one of my Factory Team CVDs.
If i replace the little,but damn irretating part that has fallen of it, will it be as good as those uppgradestuff you can buy from for example MIP?

Bad Viking


the factory team CVDs are MIP CVDs.they just come with the kit.if you lost the parts,you can buy just the rebuild kit with the axle,pin,set screw,and the part i forget its name.

this is how i put my CVDs together,they never came apart and i cant even take them apart.

clean everything with automotive brake parts cleaner,dont throw the MIP thread lock in the trash,use the associated thread lock,put it together puth the threadlock on the screw and crank that screw as tight as you can get it,let it sit over night and youll be good to go.

my first set of CVDs came apart while driving.i used the associated thread lock and i cant even take them apart to rebuild them.i have to buy a new set when mine are worn out

[SST'99Pro]

I again....
here's a list of parts to buy to my truck:

Upgrade kit (non-pull)
Servo mounts
receiver box(RPM)
servo linkage kit
nose braces tubes
engine(os12cv)
muffler
maniflod whith gasket
silicone tubing
muffler mount
air filter
gas filter
fuel tank
clutch bell+bearing or bushing (i've heard somewone say that the bearing breaks very easy)
clutch
clutch nut
flywheel non-pull
flywhell collet and spacers

and some screws.......almost new truck!!!;-)

don't now if buy all things from associated, or others brands like fastrax or something.
Please feel free to give your opinion (New Truck doesnt count,,, off course.....)
Thanks guys and bash as hard as you can!!

rocknbill: i would buy a new truck but i live in Portugal. An RC10GT RTR will cost me about $500 :eek: . that's a f... lot of money. By the way my truck was a gift from a friend.....:D and i'm not in a rush to see it running. It will take time but i wil put on it the best parts i can afford ( student's limitation of cash....:o )))
Thanks guys and bash as hard as you can!! (sorry the long post)

[Railman]

Ritchies rc10Gt,
I use red locktite on mine. All you have to do is heat the grub screw with a soldering iron for about 10 seconds. Locktite will break down at about 400 degrees. I just rebuilt my original Gt cvd's that had been put together with the red locktite for about 5 years ago. They came right apart after heating. They were so worn out that the pins barely had anything left to them! Due to the extreme wear, I had to drill new pin holes in the bell, & replace the drive pins on both end. In the end they came out good as new. I just made new pins cut from drill bits.
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

If you're going to be rebuiding your CVD's, you may want to spend an extra couple of minutes and take some precautionary procedures.

When you rebuild them, take the new pin, and sand, or cut out a little section of the mittdle part, so that there is a flat surface for the screw to tighten down on.

This will prevent your pins from coming out and chewing up your A-arms, as well as keep your CVD's together w/o having to use red locktite (I use blue, easier to break down).

[IFLYBYU]

Hi Guys,

I am having a problem with clutch bell bearing blowing on me. My gear mesh is set correctly, the clutch bell is shimmed the same as others from here, and bearings that are blowing are brand new.

I am running a mugen MT12 engine ona factory Team GT. Would it help if I put a Trinity Tranny brace on the truck?

Mike

[rocknbil]

IFLYBYU, if your gear mesh is not too tight and all is well on the clutch - it doesn't get too hot - begin by replacing the clutch pilot shaft, it has worked for many people here. It begins to wear and the inner beraing race slips around on the shaft, generating heat, causing them to blow. It's a low-cost first stop.

SS by the time you buy all the upgrades it would cost you almost as much as an RTR. Can't you order via Tower Hobbies or something? Polk just got his GT and he lives in N.Z. I'd still put that baby away on a shelf. :D

[SST'99Pro]

rocknbill: an RTR cost me about $500 here in Portugal confused:. If i order from Towerhobbies i can't exceed $150 total. if i exceed these value i will pay taxes for about 100% of the total value= more than $500. the total value of the list will be around $200 and I will order almost all my parts from tower (not all at the same time of course):

[rocknbil]

Totally bogus. Well I've helped Polk out by placing some orders for him, he posts pmt. to my payPal account including shipping and it's worked out except for the delay, but it's better than direct shipping, it took him 2 months to get his GT from Tower!

[iwannarc]

I had my first serious crash today. I was going down my street today (topped out) and I was trying to steer it straight but I didn't turn enough and my rear tire clipped my garbage can. The truck went spinning for about 10-15 feet before it stopped. When it did, I noticed the Rear A-arm was snapped in half, the dogbone (I think that is what it is) is bent to nearly a 45* angle, the metal rod the holds the A-arm to the truck is bent, and the inside of my wheel is ripped out. I will try and get some pix up later but I need to take a trip to me LHS. I have some of the parts just not all of them. Luckily the crash didn't bend my rear shock. How much do you all think this will cost me? LAter.

[iwannarc]

Wheel:

[iwannarc]

Wheel 2:

[iwannarc]

Dogbone?:

[iwannarc]

A-arm:

[iwannarc]

The rod that holds the A-arm on:
Sorry for the blurrines

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by iwannarc
....I was going down my street today.....I didn't turn enough....How much do you all think this will cost me? LAter.

POLK!! POLK!!! YOU'VE GOT A RIVAL!! :D

Yup that's a dogbone, and the other thingy is called a hinge pin. They and the A-Arms come in pairs. Looks to me like $25 tops, probably less.

Iwannarc people are probably sick of hearing me say this but you should never run in the street - for the reasons you mention here, there is too narrow of a margin of error, and more importantly, it is public property and if there is any physical or property damage you are liable. Just my best piece of advice, happy runningz --

[geo8498]

yeah. i think i've replaced each one of those parts. i'd figured approximately...
wheels - $8 pair
dogbone- $7
arms - $6
hingepins - $4

make sure you have e clips too.

you might want to check for collateral damage that might be less obvious. Looks like you made a pretty hard hit there.

[ritchies rc10gt]

and i thought i had some hard hits!id have to say you had to of broken the hub carrier and the arm mount or arm mount screws in that crash.bent axle and exploded wheel bearings.

i slid sideways into the tire of a parked with the rear wheel of my NTC3.i bent the axle,broke the hub carrier,exploded the wheel bearings, and broke the rim all in one crash

slid into the wheel of my truck with the NTC3 and broke the throttle servo case

[Synthesis5]

i know its probably been talked about numerous times, and your gunna tell me to try a search, but i have a stock rc10gt rtr truck with a 15 motor in it and i wanted to know how can i , or what do i have to put in it, to make my speed a little faster. im not looking into getting a new engine right now. of course it would deffinitely make it faster then, but i just wanted to know what minor parts i can swap to make my top speed a little perked up. im going for a totally street truck. the only thing i have ordered so far are some hpi's v groove street tires(hard). any suggestions????



thanks

[Polk]

Originally posted by rocknbil
POLK!! POLK!!! YOU'VE GOT A RIVAL!! :D



Haha, dude, noone cane touch me!

:D

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Synthesis5
i have a stock rc10gt rtr truck with a 15 motor in it and i wanted to know how can i , or what do i have to put in it, to make my speed a little faster. im not looking into getting a new engine right now. of course it would deffinitely make it faster then,


take your air filter off and see if the restrictor is still in the carb.if it is,take it out.youll have to richen the high speed needle a little.or change your gears,try going up 1 or 2 teeth on the clutchbell or go down a size on your spur

[geo8498]

More speed. Up a tooth in the clutch bell, down a tooth in the spur gear. Maybe try a new high RPM tuned pipe.

[caseymou]

I have bought a used rc10gt and am wondering what I should address if I want to go racing. It looks pretty much stock with the tt/ae .15 engine. I noticed a screw holding the large spur gear is missing. Also various screws, nuts, e clips, and pins are missing (all of which I will purchase soon.) I am not getting differential action from my rear wheels - when I turn 1 the other turns in the same direction. Is the diff locked? should it be rebuilt and with what kit? Do I need a slipper clutch? CVD's? I have already purchased a rebuild kit for the .15 (just in case) and a full bearing kit. I plan to race (or try!) at planet r/c on the east side of indianapolis. Hard packed clay type track - indoor. Can anyone give me any ideas on how to set my shocks up? I have gold on the front and blue on the back and I am not sure about spring color and oil wt. I will rebuild them when I figure out what kit I need to buy (anyone?).

[stealthpenguin]

I need a tire that will just about 'never' wear out, and can be used on street (possibly off-road).

I was thinking either street tires or mashers. Although, the mashers are much heavier, so my acceleration/speed would suffer.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by caseymou
......I am not getting differential action from my rear wheels -......

Have you tried holding the spur so it doesn't turn, then spin one wheel? You should get the diff action then. If you don't, yeah, I'd suggest a full rebuild, which consists of idler gear, diff gear, diff rings, carbide diff balls (or MIP,) and the hardened steel washers and 6 BB's for the diff bolt. If it is not equipped with bearings, an AE staple has always been full bearings in the tranny, including the two inside the diff ring.

...Do I need a slipper clutch?....

I say absolutely, the power of a nitro will certainly guarantee spinouts and slip on accelleration, but it should already have one on it, just behind the spur. A good starting point is to adjust it so, from a dead stop and on the surface you're running on, when you nail the throttle it slips for 3- 6 feet before kicking in with zero or nil slip on the wheels.

....anyone give me any ideas on how to set my shocks up?....

Well it really depends on your driving style as much as the track, set it up stock and see what you need to do.

You can get parts for your GT at almost any LHS or online hobby shop.

[Railman]

Caseymou,
For starters, rebuild the tranny. Pick up an MIP kit for the thrust, & the diff. They are excellent quality, & cost a few bucks less than stock. Also check out the top shaft gear. If the teeth have become knife edged, it will wear the idler out prematurely. I'm of the opinion that it is better to be safe than to spend a lot of time rebuilding, only to have it fail prematurely over the cost of a few low cost gears. If you build it right to start with it will last a long time. The diff gear is about $2, & the idler is about the same.
It almost sounds like the diff balls are missing completely! When you go to install the diff rings, lightly sand them on some 400 to 600 grit wet/dry (silicone carbide/black auto body) paper, on a flat surface. Just sand in a circular motion for a few rotations, & then reposiion on your finger. Do this about four times or so. It makes a huge difference in the final diff action. I sand the thrust washers the smae way.
I hope you have a manual. If not you need to buy, or borrow one from some one. They may be downloadable from the Assoc. site.

For tires, go with Pink Taper pins for the rear, & red (or silver)directionals for the front. That's pretty much become the std for the indoor tracks (Iincy, Indi, Col) around here.
I did have a setup typed in, but after about 15 minutes of pondering & typing I lost it!
The std setup used by the factory guys is pretty std, regardless of where they race. Check out the Assoc site.
In short:
#2 front shock piston w/ 30 to 35 wt oil, silver or blue springs
#1 rear shock pistons w/ 30 wt oil, green springs
Use the new Assoc. 3deg toe + 2 deg antisquat rear blocks wtih the 1 1/2 deg hub carriers
rear camber link: lower inside on bulkhead, inside (toward center of truck) on hub carrier.
Use a captured end on the rear bulkhead. I use Rocket City, but any shock end will work better than a ball stud...maybe Traxas?
Start out with all the shock mounts at the outside positions, & adjust from there. If you need more traction on one end or the other, soften that end by laying the shocks down a hole at a time. This will allow more weight to transfer to that wheel as the supension rolls. Shock oils have a similar effect, in that they change how the weight is distributed as the suspension is rolled. Making the rear oil heavier will add more steeing. Making the front heavier will add more rear side bite. Just a minor change can make a big difference. I mostly just move the shock tops for the change I need. Outside shock positions will be better in the rough, & on jumps. Lay down (top only) will soften suspension for better traction in turns, but will soften the steering response.
Set the front toe so that the front tirews site in to the rear tires on the outside. That will give a small (1 deg?) front toe in.
This should at least get you started.
Joe

[Floop]

subscribe

[Railman]

Subscribe (or to) what?

[caseymou]

thanks for the info everyone. This should get me started.

[Floop]

Originally posted by Railman
Subscribe (or to) what?
t'was just so I get notified via e-mail of posts to this thread. :cool:

[iwannarc]

Here's my last pic (This thing looks cool):




BTW, I'm just going to buy some new rear tires and 2 wheels while I'm at it because those are worn thin and my other wheel has a chunk taken out of it, so I'm just going to all that. I figured I'd drop atleast $50 on all this. Rockinbil, I've heard your soap-box ranting before, and i generally won't do it, but I was showing off the top-end to one of my friends. Oh well.

[rocknbil]

ROFLMAO

But it's really really GOOD soap.

$8+$7+$6+$4 =-$25 . . . hmm.

[geo8498]

Gladiators are my favorite tires. They grip on anything, and they last a long time.

[iwannarc]

Well, I spent $50.50 on my parts yesterday. I got home and started puttin my truck back to together. Then, I realized that I accidently bought Factory Team Hub Carriers, instead of the RTR version. I've tried all kinds of stuff to get them to work, but it just ain't happening. Tuesday, I will try to get down to my LHS, and spend the $4 on the correct parts. Rocknbil, what kind of soap is it? LAter

[Polk]

Hmm, somehow I have become unsubscirbed to this thread...well..not anymore!

Parts still not here...:(

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
...well..not anymore! Parts still not here...:(

Polk you were subscribed to the v 6.0 thread and it looks like the mods chopped it again, this is now the 7.0 thread. The wife sent your parts out air mail last week, they're coming . . . they told us 7-10 days bud, they be coming. :-)

Originally posted by iwannarc
Rocknbil, what kind of soap is it?

The kind that you can leave on the shelf (ignore) or take it off and use as required for preventative measures. :D

[Polk]

Yea we have just had bloody Queens birthday (guess you guys dont know much about that :p) which is a public holiday here so no mail then. Hopefully will come today!!

[Synthesis5]

these rims will fit the rtr rc10gt right?

rear:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2956&P=0

front:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2960&P=0


thanks in advance.....

and oh yea i forgot, for future reference, would these hpi's fit also??

[Pro3/nmt105]

What size axels are you using? those are for 1/4th axels and as far as I know only the old rtr kits come with those. The Team and ft kit use 3/16 axels so they can use bigger more durable bearings.

use these if you have 3/16th axels
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2986&P=7

[xtreme]

I am rebuilding the diff in my GT, which I just got used. I have a diff rebuild kit for it.

The problem is the diff screw does not reach the nut on the opposite diff half if the thrust spring is in. The original diff balls and gear were completely screwed when I pulled it apart and it was missing the thrust spring, obviously because of the same problem.

So what the heck is wrong? Why is the screw too short? Can I leave out the thrust spring?

Scott

[FLiPStaR*]

does the GT+ RTR come with either

Red Or Blue Body?

:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by xtreme
The problem is the diff screw does not reach the nut on the opposite diff half if the thrust spring is in........

xtreme are you sure you're not putting the spring in the wrong side? One side is deeper than the other, there is definately a right and left side. You may have two right or two left diff outdrives.

[Polk]

Dam no parts today, but i did receive a stainless steel screw kit which was sent 2 days after you sent your package rocknbil!! Wheres the logic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh well.

[ross]

Originally posted by xtreme
I am rebuilding the diff in my GT, which I just got used. I have a diff rebuild kit for it.

The problem is the diff screw does not reach the nut on the opposite diff half if the thrust spring is in. The original diff balls and gear were completely screwed when I pulled it apart and it was missing the thrust spring, obviously because of the same problem.

So what the heck is wrong? Why is the screw too short? Can I leave out the thrust spring?

Scott

Yep, like the other guy said make sure your putting the spring in the right outdrive and make sure its fully pushed down. Also check that the diff bolt hasnt snapped of at the end.

Another thing is that when you said it was missing the thrust spring it might not have been, I have often took the diff apart and found that the spring does not fall out and when looking down the outdrive you can hardly see it, you have to push the spring out with some long and sharp. So check that the spring isnt already there because you could be putting two springs in which would explain why the diff bolt isnt reaching the nut.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
Dam no parts today.....

*Shrug.* They'll get there . . .eventually . . . the extras will make it worth the wait I guess . . .

[Motorman007]

Yo when is that new clutch set will be out?

[1tuffRC10]

Just to let ya'll know, we got our track up and running. Been busy with it and racing here and other tracks. Had two wins, a second and a fifth. Oops, two seconds. New TR is broke in with over two hours of track time. Still a little too tight to really rev up high but I can't use all that power anyway. LOL The two wins were at the same track and one second was at the same type of track so same set up. It works great! Going to try to improve it just a little next time. Good luck at the track!

[number11]

Guys,

I just sold my XXX-NT and will be replacing it with a Factory Team GT. I wanted to find out what parts will I need for this truck? Basically I am looking for parts to strengthen it not hop ups. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

[xtreme]

Originally posted by xtreme
I am rebuilding the diff in my GT, which I just got used. I have a diff rebuild kit for it.

The problem is the diff screw does not reach the nut on the opposite diff half if the thrust spring is in. The original diff balls and gear were completely screwed when I pulled it apart and it was missing the thrust spring, obviously because of the same problem.

So what the heck is wrong? Why is the screw too short? Can I leave out the thrust spring?

Scott

I fixed it! There was an old thrust spring jammed in the outdrive. Took a while but I got it out.

Thanks guys,
Scott

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by number11
Guys,

I just sold my XXX-NT and will be replacing it with a Factory Team GT. I wanted to find out what parts will I need for this truck? Basically I am looking for parts to strengthen it not hop ups. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
I gather you'll be using it for racing?

Here's what I use.....
MIP 4in1 clutch LXAX13 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAX13&P=M

Ofna linkage http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBM06&P=7

Trinity brace http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=7

Trinity mounts http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWS63&P=7

These shock caps are good if you do a lot of oil changes track side but not a must, just easier. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWL86&P=M

Many racers use the RPM body mounts but I've raced with the stock mounts for years with no problems. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXRB16&P=7

And of course a throttle return spring.... the FT kit does not include one.

[ross]

Originally posted by xtreme
I fixed it! There was an old thrust spring jammed in the outdrive. Took a while but I got it out.

Thanks guys,
Scott

Told you it was. :D ;)

[iwannarc]

I got the correct hub carrier now, and put it all together. I bought Pro-line Hole Shot tires. What do you guys think of these tires? The track I will be racing at is extremely hard-packed and the guy at my LHS said that these tires will work well, was he correct? LAter

[1tuffRC10]

JMO The holeshots will need some stiffer foam on hard pack and gas truck. Most tires come with foams that are too soft for gas truck.

[number11]

Originally posted by Jamedup
I gather you'll be using it for racing?

Thanks, That is correct I will be racing it. Off and On road. Any suggestion on good on road tires.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by number11
Thanks, That is correct I will be racing it. Off and On road. Any suggestion on good on road tires.


I know nothing about on road tires.

[stealthpenguin]

Number 11, I am wondering the same thing myself!

I hade a pair of Dirt Hawg II's, that seemed to work fairly well. Although, if you plan on running your GT on-road, and you have a fairly powerful engine, you will need to loosen your slipper.

Otherwise, your rear tires will just spin like crazy, which will wear out just about any tire (happened to my DirtHawgs :( ).

[coolracer47]

i stripped one of the screws thats holds the spur in place.now i cant get it out to put my new spur on there. is there any other ways i can get out the screw?

thanks

[atm92484_3]

Cool, slot the head of the screw with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel and use a flathead screw driver to remove the screw.

[Motorman007]

Well I have one of the Clutch nuts that I had made. I was thinking of making some more. After the nat’s.

GT clutch (http://members.cox.net/ddibble/motors.htm)

[1tuffRC10]

Motorman is that for a pilot shaft engine? If not, what's the advantage?

[Motorman007]

1tuffRC10--it is not a pilot shaft engine. it is the stock Clutch nut.

the advantage is that NO E-CLIP..

i don't believe the GT can use a Pilot Shaty type motor!!!

so by me getting this made i can run it like a pilot shaft crank.

last weekend i was doing super and that #$#@ E-CLIP CAME off. so i said that is it and called around to see what i can do to stop using the @#@ E-CLIP!!!


I PLAN on getting more made.

IF YOU ARE COMING TO THE NAT'S IN OKLAHOMA CITY NEXT WEEK LOOK ME UP!!!

EVERYONE THERE CALLS ME DIBS

[Jamedup]

Motorman007,
Here's my version.

http://ccsnetworking.com/catchinhell/ClutchRig2.jpg

[1tuffRC10]

Why go to so much trouble? I use a circlip or snapring from a hardware store. It's tough to get off but it won't leave you unless you wear out a clutch nut. Most of them are thin enough to run two of them. I got about two gallons of fuel with one clutch nut. Even after blowing bearings several times. Still finished with the blowed bearings!

[Jamedup]

Well my rig was on an old beat practice truck. I blew a flanged bearing but I didn't have another so I threw that bearing in there and drilled in tapped the clutch nut. It took me longer to find a screw for it then to drill and tap it. Even without the shield on the bearing it has not failed me in many gallons, and I don't see it failing anytime soon.

[Floop]

I have put my receiver in a balloon to protect it from moisture and have a RPM receiver box on order at my LHS, but should I be concerned about my servo's? Is there a box or some way of protecting them?

[ross]

Originally posted by Floop
I have put my receiver in a balloon to protect it from moisture and have a RPM receiver box on order at my LHS, but should I be concerned about my servo's? Is there a box or some way of protecting them?

Unless you sub-merge your servo's under water, they are normally fine when driving in the wet or in dusty/dirty conditions. One thing you could do is to put a line of silicone sealant along the join on the case.

[caseymou]

Anyone out there with other gt specific forums?

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by caseymou
Anyone out there with other gt specific forums?

Here's one.... http://www.rc10gthobby.com

Oops.... http://www.rc10gthobby.com/forum/upload/index.php?

[dog8spam]

QUOTE]i stripped one of the screws thats holds the spur in place.now i cant get it out to put my new spur on there. is there any other ways i can get out the screw?[/QUOTE]
Take off the slipper and use a candle to melt the spur gear enough to rip it off with pliars. Then take Vise-Grips and take the screw out.[

[Pro3/nmt105]

Take a dremel and make a slot in the stripped screw and take it out with a flat head screw-driver.

[stealthpenguin]

I used a hack saw to slot the top of my screws.

[G24racer]

Everyone...If I were to buy a Factory Team GT is there anything else I would need besides the radio gear/engine/ect? I am converting from a Losi NT. Any upgrades beside the RPM reciever box?

[Floop]

Well, I got about 5 minutes of bashing in this afternoon before I bashed a large rock a little too hard.:rolleyes: I broke one of my stock front a-arms.:mad: What would you guys recommend as a replacement? Are there Graphite or aluminum ones available that I should look at?

[stealthpenguin]

Before everyone goes nuts w/ hop-up advice..

My advice to the GT n00b, is to just read the past 4 pages of this thread, and that should more than answer his question. :D

[stealthpenguin]

Floop, unless you like to be able to adjust the wheelbase on your car, I would HIGHLY suggest getting RPM A-arms.

They are extremely durable.

[Railman]

Stock arms for racing, & RPM arms for bashing. The alum ones are just eye candy. Alum parts typucally aren't as durable as the stock ones. They just break other parts, & bend. The Rpm's will give more before they break. Like Stealth said above; they are very durable, near indestructable.
Joe

[rocknbil]

I got a GT off ebay that had aluminum arms all around, the hinge pin holes were so stretched out the arms move forward and back 5 degrees. Bleah.

The only reason I stay away from RPM's is they are so strong if you hit something that would break an A-arm it might break something else, somethng more expensive.

[dog8spam]

Has anyone else become unsuscribed?:confused:

The only reason I stay away from RPM's is they are so strong if you hit something that would break an A-arm it might break something else, somethng more expensive.

Most of the time if the A-arm doesnt break the wheel comes off and all you need to replace is the nut up front. Ive just heard they wobble around alot so thats why I stick with the stock ones.

[Floop]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Has anyone else become unsuscribed?:confused:


The thread is now at ver. 7. You are likely still subscribed to ver 6. You should be subbed to this one now though.

Thanks all for the input on a-arms and everything else I've asked in the last couple months. I'm sure there will be many, many more questions you guys will answer for me in the future.

Bruce

[Railman]

Although it's rare, I don't totally agree with Rokinbill on this one.
From my experience, the RPM arms are more flexible than the stock arms. I ran the stock, then the RPM for a long time, & then the stock ones again. When I switched back to the stock ones I couldn't believe how much firmer they were. The RPM's felt like a wet noodle by comparison. The way it works is, if you want suspension, & steering accuracy, go with the stiffest parts available. On most racers, that would be graphite composite parts. In the case of the GT, they aren't available. The next stiffest for the GT is the stock arms, & then the RPM's. If a part doesn't give some, it will break. The RPM's give a lot, & therefore are the most durable arms. As far as aluminum, you won't find aluminum arms on GT's that race competitivly for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is weight. Alum. parts force the rest of the components too absorb impacts, which results in a less durable vehicle. A lot of guys with the Drake XXXNT, take the Graphite arms off, & opt for the stock arms, for more durability.
Just my $.02
Joe

[ross]

Ive been racing my GT for a year and a half and it still has the original arms on and thats with some very nasty hits. IMO the stock arms are durable enough, you dont need the RPM ones, like the other guy said they make your truck handle like a wet noodle because they are so flexible.

[stealthpenguin]

I use RPM arms in the rear, and stock arms in the front.

The stock arms are definitely stiffer, and I have yet to break a pair.

[tallyrc]

so what does it take to get my gt to turn better? thing pushes like a pig

[atm92484_3]

Tally, I've found that 2oz of weight in the nose along with 20 degree caster blocks, a little drag brake, and 2 degrees of toe-out let the GT turn really well.