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dgrobe2112
04-25-2003, 03:10 PM
Random.. definitly get the aluminum rear pivot block.. you will save over the long run..

Beachbum.. i run my slipper at 5 1/2 turns out.. this will allow the motor to start to spool up the diff, not instant power.. Try that..

AreCee
04-25-2003, 07:12 PM
Grimlock: There isn't much of a performance difference at the top end. Where you will notice the edge in favor of the OS is when you get on the gas coming out of a turn and throttle response through the infield. A top speed run doesn't prove much since both trucks are geared alike and small two strokes will rev like crazy. Now how fast they get there is a matter of power and if you chage gears the more powerful engine will be able to accelerate a taller gear to reach a faster top end.

grimlock3000
04-25-2003, 08:18 PM
"Where you will notice the edge in favor of the OS is when you get on the gas coming out of a turn and throttle response through the infield."

This is true, what I say is the low end of my truck is more like the mid range. The high speed runs were just the product of two competitive people being in a large open area :) We did spend a lot of time racing around trees on a hill and also zippung around some bleachers that were also built into a hill.

The RTR turns and handles bumps much better than mine at low speeds with the stock RTR oil and Orange springs. My kit is better at high speed manuvers with Red springs and 40wt shock oil. I am trying to find a good compromise between the two. Should I go down to 30wt oil in the front and keep the Red springs or use the Orange springs and the 40wt oil? Thanks!

grimlock3000
04-26-2003, 12:36 AM
Hrmm, anyone tried the new Adam Drake standard setup for bashing? That looks about like what I am going for so I might just try that instead of messing with things one at a time...

RandomGuy
04-26-2003, 10:38 AM
i was thinking the same thing grim...so everyone post your suspension setups! :D

mx416
04-26-2003, 08:19 PM
I've found Drake's setup works good all over the place - yard, street, track.

Whatever happened to Aaron Waldron? He used to be on here all the time, then he just disapeared.

MikeWz
04-26-2003, 10:10 PM
Guys-I've found the new drake set-up to work pretty well all around. Much better for mid-high bite tracks. Just keep in mind, this is only a starting point. You will want to make some adjustments on your own, because I gurantee your driving style isn't exactly the same as Drake's. But it is a good place to get started.

fezzy
04-27-2003, 04:25 AM
I've used 40wt shock oil with Orange Springs F/R on my Sport, Its abit stiff for my track but for some smoother tracks it'd work well, I just went to a 35wt F/R with the Orange Springs and it feels much more capable through the bumpy sections, It looks and feels alot more 'in touch' with the surface its going on.

MikeWz
04-27-2003, 01:25 PM
Fezzy-Try running 40wt in the rear only, It should still handle well, but you'll find it a little better for the Jumps.

RandomGuy
04-27-2003, 07:50 PM
any of you guys setup for grass? i know it sounds weird hehe but wat would give me the most control n handing on grass for some backyard bashing..also wat tires ya think would work best? im using the stock tires that come with the sport and its pretty wobbily on grass. Thnx :D

Also wat would be the ideal tires and suspension for a hard clay surface with minimal bumps but a lot of pretty big jumps. www.raceway.com theres some pics of the track...nitro season starts soon woohoo!

Got Speed
04-27-2003, 08:57 PM
RandomGuy- You should start with the stock setup and work from there. Change only one thing at a time. When you do, see if you can time your laps. If they improve try the next setting. Do this untill you get the best lap times out of your setup. Don't do this untill the track is in the same condition it will be at for racing or without a warmed up engine. You could also watch and find the fast guy out there and try his setup.

Saboteur
04-27-2003, 09:26 PM
Hey I didnt know they was a losi sport nt ARR:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS0881


It seems like a great buy for the price. Already have my trusty futaba 2pc radio to use and a small park nearby to bash it in which I checked out today. Its perfect. Anyone that has ordered from Stormer before please give me some feedback about them. Also SG cranks do fit in the losi correct? Been thinking of the MT12 after I get abuse the Mach .15 ..which will be a while.:D :cool:

Got Speed
04-27-2003, 09:47 PM
Saboteur- No you can't use an SG shaft with it. It is best with a standard crank, but, can use a short shaft. The MT-12 is sold in standard shafts, so if that is what you were thinking it isn't a problem.



Does the new big head MT-12 still have purple anodizing?

Twist 2 Go
04-27-2003, 10:03 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed

Does the new big head MT-12 still have purple anodizing?


Yes, it does.

grimlock3000
04-28-2003, 10:12 AM
"Anyone that has ordered from Stormer before please give me some feedback about them."

I have ordered from them a couple times with no issue.

Got Speed
04-28-2003, 10:26 AM
Twist 2 Go- Thanks. Everything else is still the same though right?

MikeWz
04-28-2003, 10:47 AM
RandomGuy-For grass, you're probably going to want to run a lighter oil than normal. 30-35wt should be fine with the stock springs. I go to the same track you do >:). I run 40 front and 45 rear with t-2000's red compound. Some people also like to run bowties there. I like a stiffer suspension because the track really is pretty smooth, and the truck flies off the jumps so much nicer with a slightly stiffer suspension.

Saboteur
04-28-2003, 03:32 PM
Thnx Got speed. Same to you Mike even though it wasnt to me :D. You think the stock setup will be fine for grass or should I just go for a 30 or 35wt setup?

RandomGuy
04-28-2003, 05:23 PM
sab the stock setup is 30 wt oil with orange springs..already soft enough.

Twist 2 Go
04-28-2003, 06:22 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed
Twist 2 Go- Thanks. Everything else is still the same though right?

Yes, Try the slide carb version. It rocks!!!!!!

RandomGuy
04-28-2003, 06:50 PM
thnx for the tips mike..maybe ill end up racing ya there one day lol keep me updated if your headin out there one sunday. I still havent got to run there yet not even for practice, you know exactly when nitro season starts?

Saboteur
04-28-2003, 07:47 PM
K, Thnx for the info RandomGuy. Time to go and watch my new pet turantula more. :D :cool:

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
04-28-2003, 08:27 PM
Anyone have a pixi black outlaw? I found a great deal at a hobby store so I ordered one. Any tips? Thanks in advance. :)

cave
04-28-2003, 08:50 PM
Got Speed


sorry you missed Saturdays racing. It was awsome. So many good drivers out in our class (gas truck). The Mugens were out in force. I think that once I get a better radio and throttle servo I'll be able to cut those corners better. Like now steering and throttle responce. Oh Tjracing got third place in the B main. He got to conservative and got passed with just seconds on the clock. loolololol See ya Thusday.
Thanks for the Info E me that link.

getsidways you gunna be there Tuesday? My truck took some abuse on Sat night. Broke the fronk kick plate and tranny mount and the Battery box too. I was doing so well. Thats racing. It was a blast. You got to get Bob to join us. He's ready.:D

cave

getsideways
04-28-2003, 10:52 PM
hey cave looked like fun saturday. i wish i was racing. im not goin to race this week. but im hoping to be back next tuesday. i went out tonight after work and ran my new moter. i still dont have it tuned quite right but im close. looks like its going to be fast. see ya

cave
04-28-2003, 10:59 PM
getsideways
you may want to loosen your slipper a bit more. That motor really wears your tires to the bone. Better control with alittle slippage
cave

tjraceing
04-29-2003, 12:04 AM
got speed when you going out to race again
miss you out there!
you to getsideways:confused:

Got Speed
04-29-2003, 12:50 AM
cave- Yea, I was hoping to get out there. Ive had a few of those nights before :rolleyes: Did you end up finishing the main or was that the one you broke on?

getsideways- Are you going to be out there thursday? I will since I wasn't out there saturday. Maybe I'll see you there?

tjraceing- I'll be out there thursday. I had the flu saturday so I wasn't able to make it. :( Are you going to be out there thurs.?

tjraceing
04-29-2003, 01:50 AM
yep be there tomorrow too

Got Speed
04-29-2003, 08:43 AM
See you thurs.

RandomGuy
04-29-2003, 05:32 PM
where do you people race? lol where do ya guys live?

Got Speed
04-29-2003, 05:54 PM
RandomGuy- We live in AZ and race at Scottsdale RC Speedway(SRS).

cave
04-30-2003, 12:26 AM
Got Speed there seems to be alot of real fast & consitant people out there tonight. Was fun piting for TJraceing. See you out there Thursday. I should have my truck ready by then.
cave

cave
04-30-2003, 12:33 AM
I think I have asked this before but here I go again. What servo is everyone using for there throttle. I'm going to pick up a M8 and receiver soon and I may also want to upgrade my servo for the throttle.
I figure a M8, new throttle servos and another Mugen maybe one with a rotary carb will work for the Drake but the truck I race now is done except for the throttle servo and fm radio rx combo
please Opinions on throttle servos. appreciated
cave

getsideways
04-30-2003, 12:53 AM
well how was the races tonight? how many gas trucks were there? i dont think ill be out again till next tuesday. its a busy week this week for me. hopefully ill see you all next tuesday. good luck on thursday and saturday. see ya


cave- i just picked up an m8 on ebay. maybe ill have it for my next time out. im not sure about the throttle servo. i use a hi-tec 5625. it was my steering servo before i got the airtronics. the slide carb on my mugen seems to react quicker than the rotary. i think its fast enough for now plus it might be quicker responding with the m8. i think the fast guys use the airtronics 94357.

cave
04-30-2003, 07:35 AM
getsideways
Thats cool. There were 8 trucks out, one that didnt make it. The racing was real good. Real competative.
Mayfield raced buggy so it left the gas truck entries up for grabs.
Yea I asked a couple of people last night about the servo but it was real busy. Only 3 classes lol. I like Bobs reaction time but the cost of his servos is alittle on the HIGH side summers comming and I got the Jetboat to thro money at... lol.

RandomGuy we live In central Arizona. We have 3 tracks in the state where gas trucks are welcome. Scottsdale Race Speedway
RC Mainia in Phoenix and a hobby town sponcered track in Tucson. I havnt been to the one in Tucson yet.
We have two 4 minute heats and one 5 minute mian. There are Three gas classes, gas truck A & B and a monster truck class. On saturday there are ten classes so racing goes into the early morning. Its Awsome to meet all tose people racing. At least the ones that arnt wrapped up into it so much that they cant see comming in second. they just get pissed and try to make everyone misserable. Most of us just laugh it off.
There are alot of real fast and good drivers out on Saturday.

Got Speed
04-30-2003, 08:43 AM
cave- See you then. Wonder if Mayfield is going to be there thurs. :rolleyes: :p

getsideways- Ok, maybe I'll see you out there sometime.

Got Speed
04-30-2003, 08:45 AM
Here is the auction number of where you can get a 5 cell NiMh RX pack for $14 on e b a y. 3129143158
I found one for $11 several days ago but the auction ended before I could pick one of them up.

MikeWz
04-30-2003, 10:54 AM
RandomGuy-Not sure when they're going to be opening up nitro season. They're very secretive about that for some reason. All they say is, "When it get's warm out" so it shouldn't be long now. Will definatly drop you a line when it's time to head out there.

Guys-just wondering what other go fast goodies are out there. I already have an MIP clutch, MIP CVD's, a Drake Pipe (plan on getting the Fantom) and an MT-12. I have pretty much all the drake parts (not the kickplate)

CTurbo
04-30-2003, 12:00 PM
I would like to know what shock pistons (number) come with the RTR. They dont have any number and are black.

Got Speed
04-30-2003, 02:34 PM
MikeWz- I don't think there really is a whole lot of stuff other than that. JFYI:If you run on a low traction track you might want to go back to the universals because CVDs can make you loose performance in those sitiuations. Check out Trinity and RC trix for upgrades other than the ones you mentioned. Really most of it isn't needed other than Ive heard a lot of complaints about the pivot block and battery box.

Essen
04-30-2003, 06:21 PM
Hey, whats up everyone?

Here are a couple pics of my truck.. it's been a while but it's finally coming along.

http://www.teamessen.com/xxx-nt/topview.jpg
http://www.teamessen.com/xxx-nt/bottomview.jpg

I was told to post here in order to find someone to do a custom paintjob for my XXX-NT. Can anyone here help me with that?

I'm of course willing to pay.

Thanks, take it easy.

cave
04-30-2003, 06:55 PM
Speaking of battery boxs, Is there any out there who can machine an aluminum one or something equall to the stock one. I know that losi wont improve on something that has such a high revenue return for them but this back order on the battery box parts BLOWS BIG TIME. I got a back up but my nephew has broke more than a few.
This would be cool if any one could capitalize on losi's Poor design... It may be the best idea for revenue. I still like my xxxnt. just wish there were more durable parts out there for it. RPM type "A" arms and the like.
Got Speed Im going to try to make a front plate protector for my truck. I broke another kick plate. errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr:mad:
later,
Essen W.E.D. may be able to help you out.
cave

winning edge designs
04-30-2003, 09:35 PM
Essen, check out my new website at jconcepts dot net.

Cave, take it easy on the high revenue theory. They didn't design the battery box to "fail and generate revenue", but rather they designed it to be functional, encase the battery completely and be easily removable. The fact that it ended up being a little fragile for some is due more to the fact they are very concerned about weight at TeamLosi...I agree that a few things like battery box, ballcups and shock towers need to be beefier, but most likely that would be so expensive that it may not happen until a redesign of the truck.....Those molds cost Thousands and thousands of dollars! And honestly, alot of people haven't had much of a problem, in fact i've only broken one battery box since the trucks release over two years ago! Some racers I know have broken a few though, mostly from landing directly on the box over big jumps........Native Racing has an aluminum one you can get thru Superior Hobbies if you must have a beefier one.........:), Jim

Essen
04-30-2003, 09:40 PM
Beautiful work. I'll be e-mailing you shortly.

dkj-M3
04-30-2003, 10:36 PM
Drake said Losi is working on a better batt box.

cave
05-01-2003, 07:36 AM
w.e.d. I never said they designed it to fail. I stated that it does creat more revenue so why fix it. I feel it is a poor design after replacing my box cause of small cracks. I think Losi may be listing *(reading)* what goes on here on this forum and I hope they are cause I really like this truck. I gave up another RC truck because the company didnt listen to all the week areas that others were complaning about. Now they lost revenue, My Money.
R&D is the cost of any company as you well know. Thousands of $$$ are all part of staying in front of the pack. My new battery box has a crack but its still usable. Others I know who race and win break them often. I got on this soap box cause my nephew had to use the one that I had replaced cause there was a back order of this part at the local HSs. Someones buying them up.
Drake said Losi is working on a better batt box. racers must of had the same responce too as I read on this forum.
Losi is listening and reading. Good Job Losi. This will ensure many other future Losi buyers that This company does listen.:)
Please dont take this wrong w.e.d I really appreciate all the help you and others have given me. :D
Got Speed see ya tonight

cave

Got Speed
05-01-2003, 09:18 AM
cave- Yea I broke one battery box but havn't had a real problem with it. I thought about getting the one from native racing but it is somewhat heavier and exposes the batter. RC Trix now makes one just like the stock losi one in alum.

How did you break your kickplate? Did it actually snap in half or strip the screws out of the top part?

grimlock3000
05-01-2003, 10:00 AM
Got Speed said, "RC Trix now makes one just like the stock losi one in alum."

Is this a part not yet on the RC Trix website? I want to replace my doomed battery box with a aluminum one, but the boxes Native Racing and RC Trix sell I can find are for standard hump packs and I have the XXX-NT 1 on 4 hump pack.

My stock battery box is gettign beat to heck after just a gallon of fuel. I think the box might have been better designed if it was not made of flexible plastic like it is.

CTurbo
05-01-2003, 11:00 AM
I would like to know what shock pistons (number) come with the RTR. They dont have any number and are black.

dkj-M3
05-01-2003, 11:26 AM
blacks are 57, but i don't know if it's the same on the RTR cause it has a lot of parts that are black on it that are not black on the regular or drake kit.

Just replace them to make sure, they don't cost that much.

maxman142001
05-01-2003, 01:24 PM
cave-If you dont want to replace the entire battery box look on ebay. They have battery box braces on there that are made out of metal and dont really add that much weight. Also checkout dacemfg.com they make a nickel plated one. I bought one off e-bay last year that was made out of plastic and it works great. I will try to post some pics of my battery brace.

Hope this helps

Leland:)

Got Speed
05-01-2003, 02:08 PM
grimlock3000- I didn't know RC Trix even had there web site all the way up for the XXXN-T yet. I don't know but I would think that the 1 on 4 battery would work too. Quote from RC Trix's web site: "Also coming for the Team Losi XXX-T and XXX-NTare aluminum "A" Arms, an integrated front shock tower complete with the "AfterShock" System (Patent Pending) designed just for these cars, a vented flywheel for the NT, and some newly designed battery covers that will be a drastic improvement over the stock plastic cover. "

maxman142001- I saw someone at my track with one of those braces. I thought it was just something custom made. From the looks of it, it would only add about a 1/4 ounce of weight. I saw the add or a review about dace mfg making nitro truck stuff. I never looked though I think I'm going to take a look at it. Ive only broken one box after 9 months of racing but still it would be better not to break any.

cave
05-01-2003, 02:09 PM
maxman142001
That would be cool to see it.
Got Speed I broke the kick plate in a crash with DJ. We both running the straight and we tapped tires I got the worst of it. Thats were I craked the battery box and broke the kick plate.

grimlock3000
05-01-2003, 02:57 PM
rc trix battery box:

http://www.rctricks.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/Batt-Box-FPOThumb.jpg

no 1 on 4 packs here :)

cave
05-01-2003, 04:01 PM
grimlock3000


will it break at the mounting point?

Got Speed
05-01-2003, 05:46 PM
grimlock3000- Oh ok. If I break another I'll probably buy that one. I like it more than native racings box. Funny I thought it was like the stock box.:rolleyes:

cave- I doubt that it would break there since it is aluminum. I saw someone at SRS with one like that too. I would be more afraid if after a while it would wear a little groove into the slots in the chassis and then in a really bad crash tear right through it since there isn't much aluminum between the mounting holes and the back of the chassis.

cave
05-01-2003, 05:53 PM
Got Speed I ran ito a snag. Im gunna do a side job tonight. Ill miss the races. But I'll be out Saturday night. I was looking forward to tonight. I missed tuesdays racing. Later
cave.

grimlock3000
05-01-2003, 07:56 PM
here are some pics of MAXMAN142001's xxx-nt. the truck is definitely sporting some protection for the battery box and damage from bottoming out:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/DSCF000.JPG

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/DSCF0003.JPG

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/DSCF0004.JPG

:)

winning edge designs
05-01-2003, 10:00 PM
Cave, its all good, I just thought when you said "it may be the best idea for revenue" you meant it was designed to fail, my mistake.

I have heard of locals breaking the boxes and I know they are working on improving some of thier stuff, they always are, :)! One things for sure, I hope they don't have to stay with the same platform for 10 years to get it right, LOL!........ttyl, Jim

cave
05-01-2003, 10:00 PM
This is the triple thats made of concrete lol that eats battery box's up.
grimlock3000 its on my list thanks bro~!!!!!!!! Did you see all the oher stuff? front and rear A arms.:D pivot blocks for 22 bucks wooo weeeee.
cave

cave
05-01-2003, 10:09 PM
Hope this works.
This is the triple thats made of concrete lol that eats battery box's up.
w.e.d. no probs here. It seems that my question is answered. That is a nice looking box carrier. I'll have to put it thru the riggers of SRS with me behind the wheel LOL
it dont look like much from this angle but its stretch that doesnt allow for mid air decissions
cave

cave
05-01-2003, 10:22 PM
diff angle

Twist 2 Go
05-01-2003, 10:27 PM
Hey cave, what tires do you guys use on that track? How much loose stuff is on the surface? Thanks

cave
05-01-2003, 10:32 PM
Twist 2 Go we use Prolines Boeties m3 compound rear and any fronts like proline blades or Losi's directionals. Hole shots work as the track dries out in the rear.
Its a hard surface, Its moist when we race.
I have used the Step Pins when the track was real wet. They hooked up pretty good till it dried out then it was all Boeties.

Got Speed
05-02-2003, 12:57 AM
cave- Yea, I missed you out there. I got 3rd in the A. My engine has more than 3 gallons on it and seems to be getting more powerful. I pulled a wheelie so hard down the straightaway it flipped over backwards and cartwheeled the remaining half of the straightaway. :p :D hehe. Mayfield drove someone elses NT out there and won it again with a 12 lap race! LOL I average a 10 the next fastest guy between me and mayfield runs an 11. Still waiting on that T-Maxx too. :rolleyes: See you out there next saturday(the 10th).

cave
05-02-2003, 06:47 AM
Thats cool Got Speed . 3rd. Awsome. Isnt that guy a great driver. How does he angle that truck so it turns in the air? Gots to be his take off huh.
My side job fell through. Sucks. I wanted to get that M8 today. errrrrrr. I'll do it on Saturday...Maybe if I finish it fast on Saturday I'll race. See ya on the tenth
Hey I made me a skid plate / bumper for the front. I connected it to the chassis with two screws. I hope this helps my kick plate servivabuility. I drive too hard. Someday I'll settle down.
cave:p

Got Speed
05-02-2003, 09:26 AM
cave- Yea. It's like he pushs it to the outside line and then at the last second turns and hits the jump sideways. He was driving that NT with the RB in it. I keep eating up rear axel carriers, lol. For the past 2 or 3 times now Ive broken one. I try to take the turn right before the straight to tight, :p

MikeWz
05-02-2003, 10:28 AM
Random Guy-Went to look at the track yesterday, and ran my XXX-T. It's a bit more smooth than the old track, so you're going to want to put 40wt in back and 35 in front, and keep the arms level. Silver Compound Step-pins and T-2000's work great, and when it loosens you can use bow-ties or something similar.

I just bought a Mugen MT-12 with a slide carb for $140 shipped :D. I thought it was a good deal, so I jumped on it. Hopefully it will be ported and broken in by next sunday. I'm not sure how long it will take to get here. Otherwise I'll just keep the old MT-12 in there.

Canucksk
05-02-2003, 11:22 AM
Ok, just picked up a used (mint) XXX-NT and I need to buy me some tools !

Every screw needs an allen wrench or ball driver :confused:

I guess I just entered the world of LOSI !

This truck is so SWEET !!!!!!!

So what do you guys suggest for tools ? Make ? sizes ? etc...

ThanKk's:D

cave
05-02-2003, 02:02 PM
hand driver type allen keys and spare cap herad screws of every size you got so when you strip em:D
cave

Got Speed i usuaully take that corner high. i cut the other one at the other end tight. Nascar type spins lol.

Canucksk
05-02-2003, 02:27 PM
Ya, shoot , I just stripped one !:(

The 4-40 size flat head screws actually use what size of hand driver ?

I'm really looking for the sizes of these tools.

This XXX-NT look's to be very sturdy !

dkj-M3
05-02-2003, 03:37 PM
1/16
3/32
5/64
.050

grimlock3000
05-02-2003, 03:41 PM
I think you would need the following: 1/16 for the chassis flat head screws, 5/64 for the cap head screws and clutch nut, 3/32 for the bottom engine mount screws, and .050 for the set screws on the linkages. The 5/64 is good to have in in a ball driver so you can get to some of the cap head screws easier. As an FYI, do not use a ball driver with tightening the clutch nut, use a straight tip driver.

You will need some hex drivers for the ball ends and lock nuts as well but you will likely already have these in almost any decent tool set or standard socket it. You do not need fancy hex drivers, just something that fits correctly.

I use RPM drivers and they work pretty good, I am sure there are other high quality drivers that would work just as well. Using decent tools makes everything MUCH easier to build and maintain.

Canucksk
05-02-2003, 04:06 PM
Hey dkj-M3 and Grimlock3000, that inof is just what I need !

Time to buy some tools !


:D

Canucksk
05-02-2003, 04:43 PM
OK, another question.

I see there's a 4-40 flat head bottom chassis screw that is stripped !

Do I use a 1/16 on a 4-40 size ?

Any tricks on getting it out ? It's the front one that screws into the front shock mount from underneath the chassis. Itried all kinds of drivers and no luck !

:(

cave
05-02-2003, 04:46 PM
if you got a dremel tool you can cut a slot into the top of the screwthen use a flat screw driver to back it out.

Canucksk
05-02-2003, 04:57 PM
Ya, Ilike that slot idea. Will do !

Thank's

cave
05-02-2003, 06:25 PM
Canucksk You can also try to warm up the screw with a soldering iron. This is dangerous around plastic. On the two screws that you have in the front of your Losi, should be around 5/8" or 3/4" long, these two screws enter into a threaded cylinder from top & bottom.
cave.:)

cave
05-02-2003, 06:57 PM
I got a Integy hex set for around 40.00 dollars. The set has .05, 1/16, 3/32, 5/32, 1/8, and two metric size drivers. This was the most inexpencive yet durable set I could find. This really cuts down on the frustration. Also you should have a
1/4" socket x 1/4" drive for the slipper adjustments.

Canucksk
05-02-2003, 07:00 PM
Warmin up the screw sounds like a plan also. I may try that before dremeling.

So I took the XXX-Nt out for a soin ! :D WOW :) :) :)

Waht a sweetheart. She performs well and the handling blew me away. Shure beats the old Traxxas Rustler LOL !

I did end up with a fair amount of fuel on the upper chassis near and around the servo and front of the tank. The fuel looked was redish as if it was not burnt threw the motor. I think it may be my fuel line going into the tuned muffler that serves as a pressure line for the fuel tank.

The fuel may be sipping out the sides a bit. Should I silicone it ? What type of silicone ? :confused:

Thank's

RandomGuy
05-02-2003, 09:17 PM
thnx for the tips mike..ill be sure to try it out :D wat springs do you use with that oil combo?

MT-12 eh..damm..im stuck with my mach .15 at the moment hehe stockers all the way lol do you know what engines are legal there? like do they outlaw .15s? is the TRX 2.5 legal in stadiuim trucks? in monsters? cause my bro has a T-maxx with a 2.5 and i might be gettin it for my XXX-NT to upgrade from my mach. Thnx

Colt M4
05-03-2003, 11:23 AM
hey, does anyone know if the fantom gas motors are okay? because i am looking to put one in my XNT

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
05-03-2003, 02:18 PM
Does anyone have any experience with a pixi black outlaw? I just ordered one a few days ago and want some tips. Thanks :)

WheelNut
05-03-2003, 02:37 PM
M4-There some post quite a few pages back with a guy who posted his Fantom engine. He says it awsome. Says it runs good, easy to tune, and make really good power (better than the .12CV-R).

dkj-M3
05-03-2003, 03:06 PM
Fantoms are good Jesse Robbers beat Adam Drake with one at the CRCRC (http://www.crcrc.com/) Gas Champs race back in Jan.

RandomGuy
05-03-2003, 11:21 PM
Tire question! lol ok im runnin on a baseball diamond today(soft sandy dirtish stuff) and i can hardly hit the throttle or turn at all without the damm tires spinnin! im usin the stock sport ones with almost totally worn down spikes hehe. Im gonna be buyin bow ties for the track but what would be a good overall tire that would work good on soft dirt and not wear down that bad on the road? for bashing of course thnx

dkj-M3
05-03-2003, 11:35 PM
reptiles or t-bones,

step-pins would be the best for that type of dirt, but would get bald real quick on pavement.

i would just leave the pavement for the on-road cars. or on-road tires.

Got Speed
05-04-2003, 09:40 AM
cave- Are you going to be there saturday?

RandomGuy- Get some harder compound tires. That will take care of the wear problem. Step Pins should work very well. I think PL M2 step pins would work pretty well.

winning edge designs
05-04-2003, 01:03 PM
Randomguy, it's good you realize that the road will kill your decent off-road tires pretty quickly. You also have been running pretty hard tires(rtr) that already wore out, so you know anything good off-road will quickly be bald when used for asphalt. Those rtr tires aren't very good off-road, unless your on a wet track, so anything better for racing, will wear even quicker.

That said i'd go with T90's on road and red step pins, or reptiles off road. For harder packed or sandy tracks Red Ifmar pins or Holeshots may be even better......Jim

RandomGuy
05-04-2003, 01:31 PM
damm...hate spendin more money lol guess ill have to buy another set for on road cause i love speedin down the parkin lot :D

im lookin at the tires wats the diff between red, silver etc..that the compound? wats hard wats soft? wat are the benefits for both? how are the pro-line bow ties n on road tires and such? or should i stick with the losi tires? also about rims..i notice that the losi dish rims are a differant setup than most rims..like they dont have the hex peice and stuff. Will like pro-line rims fit if i get the hex peice and pin with them? thnx

RCRACER2471
05-04-2003, 03:39 PM
Does pro-line road rage fit the Losi? Do all tires and wheels fit the Losi or is it only certain ones since my stock ones are about to be slicks....

Got Speed
05-04-2003, 04:43 PM
RandomGuy- You can use your old off-road tires for the parking lot. You won't have as much traction as you would with road rages or T90s but if you don't really care and don't want to spend the extra money a set of bald offroad tires works. Red is the softest compound and will wear the fastest. As a general rule wet tracks are best with losi tires and dry tracks are best with pro lines but for bashing it really dosn't matter. Bowties are a very good all around tire for racing. If that is what most people at your track run then start with those and experiment later. Unless the wheels specifically say they are for losi they probably won't fit.

RCRACER2471- All tires that are made for a 2.2" stadium truck wheel will fit the XXX-NT. You need to make sure that you have a wheel that fits a losi though. How the wheel mounts to the axel is different between the Losi, AE, Kyosho, and Mugen. Yes road rages fit. T90s(from what I hear) are also very good on-road tires.

winning edge designs
05-04-2003, 07:25 PM
Randomguy and Rcracer2471, looks like Gotspeed pointed you in the right direction. But i'll add a few things.
For wet tracks AND blue groove, basically any high traction track, the TeamLosi tires are usually your best bet. For low bite, such as hard sandy tracks, Proline will usually be best. Also keep in mind the traction doesn't always come from how "soft" the tire is. Often, especially in high traction blue groove and on-road, it's more about the tires friction properties. In these cases a softer tire will actually provide less traction, since it will be difficult to keep it from rolling under and breaking loose, etc., providing inconsistent handling. Inserts help in this area, but can't completely mask the problem.........Jim

grimlock3000
05-05-2003, 10:14 AM
This weekend I was having tons of fun bashing until the engine stopped right in the middle of driving around on flat ground. This was the first time my CV-R stopped running in the middle of being driven so I was a little worried. A quick inpsection revealed that the air filter came off because I forgot to zip tie it :eek: :eek: Of course this had to happen while i was in a sand pit :( My engine definitely sucked in some dirt and the glow plug had sand in it. I kept the plug out, filled the carb with fuel until the crankcase was pretty loaded up , then put some fuel in the glow plug hole and spun the engine on the box a few times. I did the same thing again to make sure almost everything was flushed out and spinning smoothly. After that, I put in a new glow plug and the engine started right up like nothing happened.

Everything ran fine after that for another 30 minutes of driving until I snapped another front arm and did not have a spare. At one point during the day, my servo arm screw came loose, that was harder to reach than it should have been :) I just took off the front shock tower, then pulled the entire front end off to get to it. I definitely learned my lesson with the air filter and hope my engine is not too messed up on the inside.

Got Speed
05-05-2003, 01:13 PM
grimlock3000- If there was sand in the glow plug you most likely did some damage to the engine. If you were running in sand it could be significant. Take the engine out and check it. If by some miracle it didn't get scratched up very badly then it may still last a while. Hope it didn't ruin it. Have fun.

grimlock3000
05-05-2003, 01:37 PM
I was thinking about taking out the engine and taking it apart to check the damage. Even if I find anything, there is not much I could do about it except for feel bad and put it back together and remount the engine on the truck. I put a lot of effort into making sure the engine would last a long time by using high oil content fuel and making sure I was always running on the rich side of tuning. It really crushed me to have my engine just suck up a bunch of dirt because I forgot a zip tie. I also have no idea how long it ran without the air filter, it could have been anywhere from a couple seconds to a full minute. After getting the sand in it, if my engine last for another two gallons (three total) I will be happy with it and buy another one instead of replacing the piston/sleeve and everything else that is scratched up.

RCRACER2471
05-05-2003, 03:13 PM
Got Speed and WED i appreciate your help. Yesterday i went off a jump not too big and broke my rear pivot block. Right when that happened i was thinking about getting the aluminum trinity anyways. If i do get it will it afect anything else in my car?

Such as needing different parts.....

cave
05-05-2003, 03:18 PM
RCRACER2471 I got one for both of mine . You dont need any thing other than a .05 hex head driver to fasten the allen heads that secure the pins to the A arm. You may buy more A arms but Its alot easier to change an A arm than a pivot block. I got the front one too....

cave

MikeWz
05-05-2003, 03:18 PM
Some people will tell you that you'll break more rear a-arms, but I haven't noticed

Got Speed
05-05-2003, 03:46 PM
grimlock3000- Yea. It may not be too bad. I have more than 3 gallons on mine and it is running as strong as the day I got it. Wierd but it feels like it is getting more powerful, maybe it's just me? I know another guy who has 6 on his and is still running fine. We both run our's around 230-240.

Got Speed
05-05-2003, 03:48 PM
RCRACER2471- Instead of breaking a pivot block you will break arms. Really you won't break arms more you will just break them instead of the pivot block. Arms are more expensive but far easier to replace. I have never broken my pivot block but Ive broken quite a few axel carriers. So it is really how you crash. When I break I will upgrade.

cave
05-05-2003, 04:01 PM
Got Speed I DNF all three heats on saturday.
Some one may have been on my frequency on the 1st two. In the main I got a bad start but got back up to third then ran out of gas. Scott changed my frequency too. Ran good till I ran out of gas. errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
cave

RCRACER2471
05-05-2003, 04:19 PM
Originally posted by Got Speed
RCRACER2471- Instead of breaking a pivot block you will break arms. Really you won't break arms more you will just break them instead of the pivot block. Arms are more expensive but far easier to replace. I have never broken my pivot block but Ive broken quite a few axel carriers. So it is really how you crash. When I break I will upgrade.

Its actually the first thing that broke on my car. I thought that one of my arms were to break first but i guess not. So is the trinity pivot block really worth it. I dont to be finding out that it will cause the rear arms to break easier......

cave
05-05-2003, 04:24 PM
It will seam like your breaking alot easier but acually your arms are taking most of the abuse. If you dont mind changing the plastic pivot block stay with it. Its alot cheaper to buy a pivot block than a arms but It got old for me to change out the plastic pivot block! I have a trinity and I really havnt broke more A arms than most people. If I crash hard somethings gunna give. its faster to change the A arms for me...
cave

Got Speed
05-05-2003, 04:35 PM
RCRACER2471 - Well in a bad enough crash something is going to break. If you have an alum. pivot block it won't be the thing to break. The arm will like cave said. The rear arms can take more abuse than the pivot block so you can crash harder before you will break an arm. Arms cost more but are far easier to replace. If you don't mind taking half the truck apart or that it is slightly more fragile then stay with the plastic. When I break mine I will buy an alum. one. If you don't mind spending the money then it is worth it.

cave- I hate it when people get on the radio during a race or don't turn theirs off in time. Are you going to be there saturday?

cave
05-05-2003, 04:40 PM
I'll do my best . I hope I can get an M8 by then. I want to go with the one that has a choice of frequencies. that way I can change it if someones being a richard crainium!
I'm starting to get somemore side stuff. This will help me with my toys. Its almost boating season:D

dkj-M3
05-05-2003, 04:40 PM
I've only broken 2 rear arms since I first had my truck(18months) with the trinity block.

$.02

Got Speed
05-05-2003, 07:33 PM
cave- ok, maybe I'll see you there.

tjraceing- How about you? Are you going to be there?

Does anyone know where you can get the RC Trix battery box at? Thanks

cave
05-05-2003, 08:28 PM
Got Speed thats a great question
Does anyone know where you can get the RC Trix battery box at? Thanks
I'd like too know also. Any where in AZ?

G19
05-05-2003, 08:35 PM
You can get it online at rctricks.com

That is the only place I know of.

BTW Just want to say thanks for all the info. In this forum

CHEVYMAN07
05-05-2003, 08:45 PM
I know this is a losi thread but how does it compare to the rc10gt in performance, I dont mean the radio either because the GT's is crap but how do these two fair on and off the track? How far have you jumped the XXX-NT and land shiny side up? And how reliable and easy to tune is the mach .15? Thanks again

cave
05-05-2003, 08:46 PM
G19

I have learned so much from all theys people. This is a a really cool site. I would have given up days after I got the truck if not for these people here. They have all the answers... I can offer .01 cents lol.
cave

cave
05-05-2003, 08:55 PM
I wouldnt bash a Gt. 9 times outa 10 its the driver. you can get a Heck of alot of parts for the GT. I think my Losi is killer but Ive seen people who borrough others trucks ,GT, XXXNT,Mugens and others and drive them all to first place... Its the driver.
All these rc's will fall apart behind the wrong driver...
Losis do look cooler :D ;) :p

cave

G19
05-05-2003, 09:01 PM
Cave

I have learned alot just by reading all the posts. Now if I could just quit breaking servos. I have bad luck right now. (3 servos)
One was high torque metal gear. :(

cave
05-05-2003, 09:13 PM
G19
Dont you have a servo saver on your truck? Are you bashing or racing? Sounds very exspencive. I got a airtronics 94358 erg-vb and I have had alot of good luck with it. I t does eat batteries tho.
What kind Of servos? Hytec Futaba? Airtronics. Did you get them servo city?
cave

RandomGuy
05-05-2003, 09:16 PM
jeese man wat the hell are ya doin to those poor servos! lol i suppose hitten a curb or sometin and the wheels are bein forcefully turned while the servo has power...poor servos..i feel bad for them :p

o btw ya dont have to reaplce the servos just replace the gears ya stripped

RandomGuy
05-05-2003, 09:43 PM
question: about the scratches in the engine....the other day i was driven on a baseball diamond(thin layer of sand) and my truck flipped over and in the process of flipping the air filter came off and it was laying upside down in the sand with no body and no air filter. I dont think i got any dirt in, it was at idle and i could see a lil bit of dirt in between the carb opening and the end of the carb but i dont think any got in..i washed the carb openin out with fuel and started runnin again with no problems. Havent ran it since that day last weekend you think there could be problems?

is there any way to test if you have scratches without taking the whole engine apart? also wat would be the syntoms of scratched parts in the engine? thnx

cave
05-05-2003, 10:07 PM
RandomGuy As with all 2 strokes, Whenever you sustain deep scratches in the cylinder walls you lose power. If you have to retune your motor or if there is a real difference in power, your motor got something inside. You can take the cooling head off real easy. Then look inside. If you see scratches that are deep , you may have lost some run time. you said earlier that your CVR started right up. You may have gotten lucky. I dont have that kinda luck lol. Its real easy to pull the head off just make sure you tighten it up evenly. dont over tighten one cap ata time, do it evenly. Snug em all then start to tighten em up
cave

grimlock3000
05-06-2003, 12:24 AM
"you said earlier that your CVR started right up."

myself and randomguy both ended up with the air filter coming off. it was my cv-r that started right up after getting the dirt in it. i have no idea how easily randomguy's engine restarted, hopefully it was as easy as mine was.

i could not stand not know what was inside my engine so i took it apart today. the sleeve was smooth with no visible anything that was out of the ordinary. i had no easy way to get out the piston, but i am assuming it should be in good shape since the sleeve was so clean. i really thought i would find something in the engine. my engine must have died right away when the filter came off and dirt got up in the glow plug.

today i got in all the parts to setup my truck with the full drake standard suspension setup. i will report how well that works for me once i get a chance to try it out.

here is a NEW VIDEO :) of my truck along with a friends. my truck is the all purple one with the suspension set too high so i could clear some rocks. at one point, i needed to put some threadlock on the servo arm so i had my truck in two pieces. the other one is a completely stock xxx-nt sport that broke the a-arm:

ftp://207.5.155.117:1500/xxxnt2.wmv

this video ending up coming out too blue because of the camera's auto correction. also, the file size is large and there is nothing overly spectacular so i would not advise any modem users to download it unless you really have some free time ;)

MikeWz
05-06-2003, 10:39 AM
Getting my new MT-12 modded by Maverick Racer. He seems to really know what he's talking about, and had three of his modded, signed engines going to the worlds so he can't be all that bad. I'll let you all know how it goes, you may want to consider it.

Got Speed
05-06-2003, 11:12 AM
G19- Thanks

CHEVYMAN07- Any of the trucks can be driven to first place it really is all in the driver. You may be faster with one car than with another though. If you can drive a GT and a XXXN-T before deciding. See which one you feel better with and which one is fastest for you. If they stock AE and Losi parts then go with the AE unless you want to keep spares. Most tracks and LHSs stock all major brands. The losi is more adjustable, more rigid, and just seems to get through the corners much easier to me but some people feel just the GT handles better. Hope this helped :rolleyes:

RandomGuy- You were probably less likely since you knew that it came off as soon as it flipped over. You said there was dirt in the carb but there is a pretty good chance that there was no damage.

grimlock3000- Your pretty lucky not to have scratched it all up. If you were running it rich that would also help because it washes particles out easier. If it didn't scatch the piston and sleeve it probably didn't scratch any of the other parts either.

RandomGuy
05-06-2003, 05:11 PM
well its official...i converted my stock tires into slicks. After a day of donuts after they were already severly worn down theyre nice and smoooth :p I suppose ill keep using them for road...until the things get a whole in em LOL

now im on a quest to get new rear tires...im gonna be mostly runnin on loose dirt and grass for now since im not racing yet. Do you think something like dirt hawgs or dirt works will work better than the bow ties and the rest of them racing tires? im not sure :confused:

RCRACER2471
05-06-2003, 06:13 PM
I got one last question on the tires/wheel conversation. Will RPM XXT rims fit the XNT?

Heres the ones i want if it helps at all... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEW36&P=7

maxman142001
05-06-2003, 06:30 PM
Cave,Gotspeed-Hobbybench on 19th ave. carriers RC Trix parts for the T-Maxx so if you go down there they can probably order the parts for the xxx-nt for you. I would call first and check to save you a trip. call 602-995-1755 and ask for the rc car department.

Gotspeed-where do you live and what high school do you go to?

leland:)

cave
05-06-2003, 06:38 PM
RandomGuy the Losi step pins work great for loose stuff and grass. If your pulling wheelies you may want to loosen your slipper. Quick way to tear up your diff gear is grass and traction:D I found this out for myself lol.

grimlock3000
Sorry my bad. That was real funny seeing two people haveing the same type of insadent lol. Glad everthing worked out...

Max Thanks I'll give em a call Got Speed lives close to there I think.
Did you get a job there?
cave

maxman142001
05-06-2003, 06:57 PM
cave- no problem. I put in an application in, they said they would be hiring for the summer but havent called yet so im gonna go over there and see whats up. Lucky me that my lhs is only 2 blocks away so I can get parts like *that.

Leland:)

winning edge designs
05-06-2003, 08:05 PM
rcracer2471, yes, the XXT and XXXNT wheels are the same part number. I'm not sure how durable the spoke type wheels are, I believe they bend easier, but won't break too easily.

For the guys bustin' up servos, there is an adjustment for the steering servo saver. Servo's should never break, unless the saver is too tight, or binding from low maintenance. The servo saver actually needs to be dissasembled and cleaned occasionaly for best operation. You can also run it a full turn or more looser then the instructions recommend if needed. Just be sure to have it tight enough to get full steering throw in turns under power..........Jim

G19
05-06-2003, 08:59 PM
Cave

One servo was a hitec 5645mg. It just lock into a left turn. I check for something blocking the steering. I check the batteries. They were charged. The servo center when I put it back into the truck. It just quit working at all. I was running on a flat tear drop shape driveway. The hitec was new. I had it few days. I'm going to send it to hitec.

The other two were standard JR servo's. After the first one broke. I loosed the nut on the servo saver in the truck a full turn. I guess it still to tight. I going to take it apart and clean it. Like winning edge designs said. I was racing when standard servo's broke. It was on two seperate races.

Got Speed
05-06-2003, 09:09 PM
RandomGuy- LOL Ive got a set of "tuning" tires like that. lol I just run them instead of my racing tires to get the engine tuned with. The dirt works and dirt hawgs last a long time and will give you great all-around traction.

maxman142001- Yea, I remember seeing them now. Thanks. Ive only cracked one box but if I break another I'll see if they will order it for me. I live at about 31st Ave. and Indian School. I'm home-schooled. They told me the same thing. Hopefully I can get a job there. What grade are you in?

cave- No they havn't called me. I'm going to go over there tonight and see about it.

maxman142001
05-06-2003, 10:39 PM
Gotspeed-I am 16 and go to Sunnyslope High School. School is almost out time to hit the track!

Glad I could help,
Leland

cave
05-06-2003, 10:55 PM
maxman142001
Looks like I'll be ordering a battery box from rc trix soon. eeeeerrrrrrr
Got Speed i was practicing on the table top and a Tmax racer tapped me in the air. Looks like I got the worst of it...

grimlock3000
05-06-2003, 11:20 PM
Even though my battery box is pretty beat up, it has lasted me through many crashes, wheelies, and poor landings. Until last night when I broke my battery box cleaning my truck, doh! I had the truck standing up on the bottom part of the battery box while I was wiping off the bottom of the chassis. I put a bit too much pressure on the truck and the box cracked and broke on the end where the screws go. I am going to order another one and duct tape this one back together for now. I wish I never got the XXX-NT battery pack, if I had a standard hump I would be ordering the RC Trix box.

WheelNut
05-06-2003, 11:41 PM
You guys were lucky with your battery boxes, mine broke while I was breaking in my engine! So I just made a new one from some 1/8'' aluminum. It was really very easy. You should just try that instead of buying, its alot cheaper. I didn't make mine key into the shock tower like the stock one though. Its like a GT battery holder. The thing holds up awsome though! No problems at all yet!

I haven't been able to run my NT for a while!:( Me and my dad were driving around and he T-boned me and stripped my throttle servo's gears. :eek: So I've got some in the mail, and I'm going to make a switch mount that protects the servo horn from more"GT attacks".

MikeWz-I'm thinking about getting Maverick to port my CV-R, I'll have to see how your engine runs after the porting. how much did he charge you?

Aluma
05-07-2003, 07:29 AM
Hi y'all! I just bought a drake edition XXX-T with an OS motor and some nice servos. wondering if there's anything particular i should work with or do to get it ready for racing.... what parts should i stock, does it need any upgrades and where can i find them. I want to learn as much as possible before i get out there.
thanks for your help, in the mean time, i'll go read these 60 pages :P

cave
05-07-2003, 07:39 AM
WheelNut My fist box had cracks on the bottom end where the mounting holes are. I replaced it with a new one.
can you post a picture of what you made? I made a skid plate for the front out of .063 aluminum. I have broke the kick plate a couple of times. I drive alittle hard:D

Aluma reading the last 60 pages would answer all or at least most of your questions

cave

Got Speed
05-07-2003, 08:46 AM
maxman142001- Ok, when are you going to start racing?

cave- LOL those T-maxxs like are always breaking everyone else. hehe. BTW: My t-maxx is in the mail finally. Maybe Ill be able to race it saturday. :p

Aluma- There arn't any upgrades that you have to have. But, some things will break easier than others. Since driving styles are different(and crashes) then you may break something I have never broken but I may break something that youve never broken. So I suggest upgrading stuff as you break it. As for spares. You will most likely break some front suspension arms, ball cups, and rear axel carriers some time or another. After driving it and seeing what breaks easiest for you, stock up on those parts. You may want to get some 30-40 wt shock oil and a few different sets of springs.

MikeWz
05-07-2003, 01:03 PM
Wheelnut-He charges $60 plus S&H for your standard .12 3-port engine. Not too bad.

RandomGuy-Track opens this saturday for practice, and the first race will be sunday. I won't even have my MT-12 in it :( Mavericks got it. The only .12 legal engine I have is a Dynamite .12 PD engine, which really doesn't have too much power.

cave
05-07-2003, 01:48 PM
Do you have an email address for Mavericks? I cant imagine how insane that Mugen is going to run after porting. This is for your on-road car right MikeWz?

Got Speed those guys are unforgiving. lol. I'll; try to be there on Saturday. I may have to work. That would be tough running 6 heats and turnmarshaling too.
cave

RandomGuy
05-07-2003, 03:11 PM
thnx for the tire info...i think im gonna go with the dirt works cause i still want to be able to drive on the road and dont have the money for like step pins and road tires.

mike probably be there saturday practicing..when you see the band of loser kids the oldest is me lol i suppose ill pick up the dirt works while im there saturday plus the crap i broke today..which reminds me..

i broke in half the screw that holds the turnbuckle to the shock tower(a couple cartwheels due to tryin to jump while having 0 traction :p ) anyways now half of the screw is in my shock tower! how do i get it outta there!

Got Speed
05-07-2003, 04:06 PM
cave- Yea, but it won't be too bad if I do since T-maxx is the last class run and gas truck is usually 5th or 6th.

RandomGuy- If you are talking about the ball stud you can take it out with pliers if there is enough to grab onto. Or you can drill it out. Or you can shave a little off the plastic so you can grab it with pliers.

maxman142001
05-07-2003, 05:52 PM
gotspeed- I am not positive when I will start coming out to SRS. I really want to go every weekend I am just lacking the transportation. Thank god I am going to be driving next year!

cave- owch! Are you running a sway bar on your truck?

Leland

cave
05-07-2003, 06:46 PM
Yea Ive tryed alot of different set ups. This is just another phase. I also have tryed cutting my own tires too but I think Ill go with harder tires in front so I get alittle bit of slide & less wip.
Sucks waiting for a ride. Maybe you and Got Speed could hook up?
Careful now This racing stuff can be quite addictive.

Got Speed i was thinking more in the lines of tunning and such. So you'll be marshalling 6 or 7th then 1st race. Cool you got plenty of time to wrench. Ya think if you go to the Hobby Shack you could find out if they stock those battery pack trays for the xxxnt from RC trixs? e mail me.

Randman
05-07-2003, 07:39 PM
I have the stock wheels and header from my drake, brand new, anyone interested in them?

CHEVYMAN07
05-07-2003, 07:51 PM
Can we see some pics? Racing pics, bashing pics, anything!

cave
05-07-2003, 08:02 PM
Oh boy here we go again. Pictures huh.:D
K I'll go take sum...lol
cave

cave
05-07-2003, 08:16 PM
hope this works lol
I try to get action shots but Im always involved at the track. (Talking to others lol) when I should be snapin some shots .

cave
05-07-2003, 08:24 PM
heres my skid plate i made.

CHEVYMAN07
05-07-2003, 08:33 PM
I like your trucks cave! pool shot. are those xxx-nt sports? or kits?

Got Speed
05-07-2003, 08:55 PM
maxman142001- You live near hobby bench? If you want I might be able to pick you up saturday if it is alright with your parents?

cave- How do you like the swaybars? I don't know. If it is too much Ill just race t-maxx another nite. I have several hours before sign up to decide. :p Hopefully I get it friday. Maybe not though. :cool: Do you have a way to shrink the size of the pictures other than cropping? I have tried cropping and it just dosn't work. If you want I can send you some good pictures I got out there.

WheelNut
05-07-2003, 11:54 PM
Cave I'll get some pics of the battery box tommorow.

grimlock3000
05-08-2003, 12:09 AM
my battery box was also letting in a lot of dirt which was runing my pack. here is how i "fixed" my battery box until a replacement gets here. i just sealed up the whole thing with a bit of adhesive/sealant (similar to shoe goo) and also glued the broken area back together while i was at it:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/box.jpg

the pic was taken before the stuff dried. for now, no dirt will get into the battery compartment and the broken area (back right corner covered in white) is probably stronger than it was before it snapped ;) the adhesive peels up real easily so i should not have an issue getting the pack out when the new box gets here.

cave
05-08-2003, 07:40 AM
CHEVYMAN07 thanks I built the one right a Drake from a kit. The one on the left was a ready to rebuild and so I have. only the front shock tower, throttle servo brackets and chassis is RTR. I race the RTR. Its got the Mugen MT .12 Airtronics 94358 steering servo,Drake pipe.

Got Speed I dont know if I like the sway bar . I just put it on. I raced it once but I do know that In the woops it dont handle all that great now. I can power into the turns now without too much wip action. Im gunna swith fuel tho. im going to try trinitys race formula. I run Klots in all my quads and bikes.

Grimlock3000 Cool fix. I just forced mine back in place. I think it'll last a few days of racing.

WheelNut that would be cool.
I'll try this again Here is my home made quicky fix skid lid

Got Speed
05-08-2003, 10:22 AM
cave- Yea. I thought about trying one. I may still. I don't know how well it would work on this track. It probably would have woreked good on the last track though. I am also trying a new fuel. I am trying Sidewinders. I've heard it is pretty good so I'm going to give it a try. If you havn't already bought some of the trinity fuel I have some if you want to try it? Did you make the skid out of a peice of alum. you had laying around or did you buy one somewhere? Ive been looking for some because I wanted to make a stock-like alum. skid and some other little things. :p Do you know if tjraceing will be there saturday?

MikeWz
05-08-2003, 10:46 AM
Cave-Nah, that MT-12 is going into my XXX-NT. Hopefully I won't need a carb restrictor, I think I can handle the power :D . I don't have an e-mail for him, but you can do a search to find his name and PM him. I don't think He'll port yours, as far as I can remember he said he'll only port them up to 2-3 tanks run through them. That's why I bought a new one (and I blew out my old one have some donut fun :rolleyes: ).
Randomguy-Cool, I'll probably see you there on saturday, and are you going to the first race sunday? As long as my 'Rents will let me out of the house(being mothers day) I'll definatly be there. What kind of engine are you running in your truck?

grimlock3000
05-08-2003, 01:09 PM
i am still running the stock aluminium kit pipe with the rubber stinger. what pipes could i switch to for a notiacble increase in top end performance and possibly more rpms? bottom end would be nice too, but i already have all the power i can handle when starting off.

cave
05-08-2003, 01:58 PM
Got Speed
I think TJ will be there. Hes been working hard. He got a Buggie XXX something or other. Its purdy fast electric. I got the aluminum at hobbie town. .063 Is the thickness They have thicker but I still wanted some give to absorb the impact.
I'll try the swaybar out on Saturday if I dont have any problems!
you going to bring maxman142001 ?

mikeWz Ive typed to him before and he told me he would only port a new engine with no run time on it. Thats cool he can do it after three tanks. I was asking for my future new Mugen or CVR or Wasp or or or lol

Grim what about the Drake. I got a buddy who has a works pipe and he is fast. He has a CVR.
cave

RandomGuy
05-08-2003, 02:08 PM
90% sure i wont be there sunday for the race..its mothers day and i dont think my mom or dad wants to spend mothers day truckin me 35 minutes away to the track hehe. Im lucky if i can get a ride saturday nevermind on mothers day....god i wanna be two years older and drive..this hobby would be so much easier lol

im stilll runnin my mach 15...gonna run her until she dies hehe it seems to have enough power for me..im not that skilled of a driver yet so its all good for now. When it loses compression...well..i was gonna get the 2.5..then i found it the Nt doesnt take a SG crank :mad: o well...i suppose ill get a wasp...but my neighbor has one in his GT and he asked me to to tune it. It was reallie a pain in my arse the thing would keep overheating, changing in perform so easily without me changing anything. Much worse than my mach which runs very cool at almost any lean setting i can set it as lean as it goes without decreasing in power yay lol

grimlock3000
05-08-2003, 02:34 PM
"Grim what about the Drake. I got a buddy who has a works pipe and he is fast. He has a CVR."

The Drake is pretty cheap so that would be a good option for me if I get more top end. Has anyone gone from a XXX-NT pipe to a Drake pipe?

Got Speed
05-08-2003, 03:12 PM
cave- Ok. Is he racing the buggy or sticking to truck, or both? I'm going to see if I can get a peice of that aluminum. :D

RandomGuy- Ive heard that the high speed needle is about average and the low speed on that engine is very sensitive.

MikeWz
05-08-2003, 04:00 PM
RandomGuy-Where do you live, I'm sure it wouldn't be a problem for me to give you a ride if you needed. If I'm gonna be truckin myself around might as well have a buddy to race with, ya know. As for an engine, I'm going on to my Second MT-12. My first one lasted 6 gallons, it can be a pain to tune, but it's not as bad as my friends wasp. And it has more bottom End

Grimlock. I want from the RTR pipe to the drake pipe and I honestly didn't see much difference. I have MANY good things about the fantom pipes, so when I can scrounge up an extra $50 I'm gonna get the Single Chamber one. Plus the steel pipes sound really cool.

offroadcrazy01
05-08-2003, 04:40 PM
Who makes better ball studs for the xxx-nt my rear ball stud has broken do I replace them with losi ball studs or lunsfords and where can buy lunsfords balls studs on line any info would help

Got Speed
05-08-2003, 04:48 PM
offroadcrazy01- Unless lunsford started making ball studs recently they don't make them at all. Losi makes ti. ball studs but they are about $8 a pair! :eek: The two that really break the most are the rear shock tower studs. I am using traxxas shock ends and a 4-40 bolt on mine and havn't broken it for months. I guess eventually I will get ti. ball studs though, :D

RandomGuy
05-08-2003, 05:03 PM
lol thnx mike but i dunno how my parents would react by me saying "hey mom can i get in the car with this guy i met online to go to the hobby shop" haha the classic come here little boy i got candy in the car for ya scenario i dont think shed buy it ;) theres 3 of us on my block one of the 6 parents or my older brother(who is so unfortunatly not into RC and doesnt like to go either lol) will get us there..hopefully

MikeWz
05-08-2003, 06:14 PM
Yeah I guess you're right. But hey, you never know. Oh well. It's not like I have any chance of winning a race with my little Dynamite .12. It's only got about .5 hp. HA HA, that engine is a joke.

maxman142001
05-08-2003, 07:05 PM
Gotspeed- I am not 100% positive but I think my mom might be able to take me to the track on Sat. after a family get-together! Thanks for offering though.:)If my mom does take me I will meet up with you guys there.

Cave- Give Sidewinder fuel a try. It is the best fuel on the market! Cool front skid plate!yeh I know, racing is addictive. Last week I went to an indoor go-kart track and man was that awesome!

Peace
Leland

MikeWz
05-08-2003, 07:59 PM
Cave-what kind of fuel do you run now? I use trinity platnum and it's been the best of the fuels I've tried sofar. Gives excellent power and good longevity too. As of now I've tried: Byron, Bluethunder, Traxxas and the trinity fuel

winning edge designs
05-08-2003, 08:32 PM
Pipes, imo, the Drake pipe is far and away the best of the ones i've tried or helped try. A few fantom pipes(prototypes) the two Losi pipes(rubber stinger and drake), RB pipe and a dynamite pipe. The Fantom pipes seemed a little better up top, the RB a little better off the bottom, but the best all around was the Drake pipe, since it was very close to both pipes, but wasn't poor in any area. The Dynamite was the best bang for the buck I thought btw.......The problem with all this testing is every time you change engines you need to go thru it all again and its tedious work. I have yet to see anyone win a race because of the pipe they run, so i'd get a brand name pipe and track time instead of being too worried about it, imo, :)

Fuels, again imo, i've tried alot, O'donnel, Trinity, Blue Thunder, Sidewinder, Maxy's, even Byrons and K&B back in the day.....They all are good, but i've noticed the Maxy's fuel is very forgiving, meaning you'll get great power without needing to run the carb setting close to the edge. Temps are not a problem at all any longer. Since switching to Maxy's I only run my carb settings for fuel economy, rather then power(8+ minutes in 1/8th and 11+ in truck w/legal tanks), definately good stuff, they are out of Miami. Not to mention Maxy himself will bust his arse helping anyone he sees running his fuel that needs or asks for help.....Stand up guy makes it an even sweeter deal!....Jim

Got Speed
05-09-2003, 12:15 AM
maxman142001- sure. I have been running trinity. I am going to run my first tank of sidewinder to see how I like it on saturday. Hopefully I'll see you out there. I have a really beat up blue and red XXX-NT with lightning(new body on the way :D :rolleyes: ). I'll probably be by the wall at the southeast corner. What does your truck look like?

MikeWz- I really like my trinity platinum over the others I've tried. But I'm going to give the sidewinder a try. :)

winning edge designs- Does maxys have a website? Ive never seen their fuel anywhere here in AZ.

Thanks:)

cave
05-09-2003, 12:16 AM
MikeWz I run windex right now I mean Blue thunder. I dont have a problem with it I just want to try something new. I run Klotz in my Quads and I have had ZERO problemos with em. I would like to try Maxy fuels But Here in Arizona Blue thunder, Odonells Sidewinder, Trinity, Traxxis and one more I cant remember,,, oh HPI are what the local shops in my area sell. Im not to sure but I think HPI and Sidewinder are the same or is that side winder and Trinity. oh well Just want to try it. If it has Klotz I'll give it a
whirl.
Mike I noticed a BIG difference from the RTR to the Drake pipe. I had a higher rev and better take off. It may of been the Mugen/ Drake combo.

Got Speed ? 8 bucks for titanium. Hum I got to talk to scott about that hes been charging me 9 sumptin. EEEEEEEEERrrrrrrrrrrrr
I shaved my tower a bit where the ball stud goes thru. Its easy to get at the long Losi's when they break.

cave

cave
05-09-2003, 12:38 AM
Sorry but ten minutes for edit lol my bad

Got Speed TJ says hes going to try running both buggy & gas truck . You both are gunna be real tired. hahahahahaah. I got the Aluminum at Hobby Town for less than 2 bucks . they have thicker stuff but i wanted some Give.

My Mugen was acting up GS seems as if I am running out of fuel but the tank is half full. I took the motor off and cleaned the Tank and the carb but I still have the stutter on the top end. I gave it more fuel and It seems to help. Any of you guys with Mugens ever touch that sloted screw on the back ? the Mixure screw?

maxman142001 I'll be kicking it by Got Speed on the East Sideas side lol.
w.e.d. I think you gave a web site one time before for Maxy fuels. Do they have a SSS (Safe & secure socket) set up for online shoppers?
Sorry again for the double post

cave

Got Speed
05-09-2003, 09:23 AM
cave- Windex, lol. I used to run that and it wasn't really bad but the platinum just seems to give more power and be more realiable. I've got 3 1/2 gallons on my CV-R with still great compression. The other two fuels Ive seen in AZ are Byron and that offbrand stuff. I was going off of hobby bench. Their ball studs are $8 a set. Yea, I thought about doing the washer trick. Maybe I'll buy some ti. tommorow. Cool. Isn't gas truck and 2wd mod back to back? Yea were going to have our hands full. For the engine: I assume you did try and richen the high speed needle right? If not check to make sure the pressure line is connected to the tank and pipe and that it dosn't have any holes in it. Make sure the fuel line dosn't have any either. You can also check the gasket on the header and on the lid of the fuel tank. It could be alot of things but those are probably the most common. I had this problem with a .21 and it ended up being the header gasket. What screw are you talking about on the back? The back of the carb? The idle screw? How is the track over there at hobby town? Ive wanted to go over there for quite a while but I just havn't since it is about 45 minutes or more.

MikeWz
05-09-2003, 10:46 AM
Cave-HPI and trinity are both blended by wildcatz, and all three use klotz oil. I would recommend the Trinity, becaues it seems to have a bit more power than the HPI. I haven't tried the wildcatz yet though. I got a little over 6 gallons through my MT-12 before I needed to buy another. Now I'm getting it ported :D . I went MT-12 because Maverick said it was by far the best for off-road due to its crazy low end, and Mav claims he can add a little more bottom and top-end to it with his crank, and sleeve porting. So I figured I'd give it a shot. And it only takes him two days. Seems worth it to me.
I'm going to be trying that Fantom works pipe as soon as I get the extra money. I've been saving for a TT Raptor 30V2 heli so it may take me a while. Those pipes are $50 plus shipping, which isn't exactly cheap

cave
05-09-2003, 01:52 PM
MikeWz That Pipe seams to work well with a CVR. This guy Francewa has one on his XXXNT and he flys.

Got Speed I got to get some fuel tonight so I think I'll try the trinity race formula @20% nitro. Just courious to see if there is a difference. I think the nipple on the carb is messed up a bit. Thats the one that is adjustable. I hope I can find a brass one. I didnt know it was plastic till last night. How Cheap. Do they have a track at Hobby town? I seen a onroad track. I hope I can find a nipple there. The one in mesa staps the card . TJ got his fuel for 11 bucks. He likes the trinity stuff...
cave

RandomGuy
05-09-2003, 02:59 PM
i run blue thunder in my mach 15 right now..i have nothing to compare it to but so far(half a gallon through it) ive had excellent temps and it hasnt failed to start or stalled since break in...not once boo ya :D just my 2 cents

Got Speed
05-09-2003, 04:24 PM
cave- Oh, I must be thinking of the other hobby town that has an offroad track. I really like my trinity but I'm trying sidewinder for the same reason your trying trinity lol. I think you'll like the trinity more.

cave
05-09-2003, 05:02 PM
GS I'll let ya know:D I dont have an issue with Blue Thunder. So far so good I want to try trinity out cause everone i talk to says it rips.
Cave

pooldoc101
05-09-2003, 05:43 PM
Cave- I read back a few pages that you put a sway bar on your truck. Where did you get one? I tried one for the rear of a xxx-4 buggy , but there are fit issues[bar seems a little narrow and hits shock tower]. I was just wondering what you were using, I want one for the front mostly[inside tire lifts in sweeping corners]. Any info would be appreciated=Pooldoc

MikeWz
05-09-2003, 08:53 PM
I ran blue thunder on a CV-R but the engine only lasted 1 gallon. A little odd. Must be those crystals that build up :rolleyes:

Canucksk
05-09-2003, 09:01 PM
Shoot ! My steering is all jerky and just on one side. Using a cheap S3003 servo. Tell me it's the servo and nothing else. LOL

:(

maxman142001
05-09-2003, 09:08 PM
gotspeed- What time are you guys going to be out there at?

winning edge designs
05-09-2003, 09:12 PM
The Maxys fuel website is under thier name, like this, the w's, then maxy'sfuels then dot com. As I said earlier, I don't see a giant difference in any fuel, but there is a noticable difference. Even more important to me then the fact that Maxy's is priced very well and ranks as one of the best fuels i've tried.....The owner, Maxy is the most helpful guy i've ever raced with, bar none! He doesn't spend the entire day only with his top team driver, he'll help anyone running his fuel if he can and only asks for feedback in return.......He is almost always smiling. At the Eastern R/C Pro race #1, he had 7 drivers in the Buggy A main, including TQ and Win. 6 in Truck A main and Same in Monster Truck....If only every Manufacturer paid as much attention to thier drivers!...Look for the Yellow shirts at a race near you!...:), Jim

cave
05-09-2003, 10:28 PM
w.e.d ya think maxi would sponcer me:D I'll give him moment by moment feedback...J/K
I may have to try sidewinder fuel. Hobbytown was out Seems like everytime I go to hobby town they sold there last whatever I need. Got speed I might have to buy a gallon of side winder. Do they sell trinity at the track? If trinity, Hpi, are formulated by side winder, what is the difference? Cant be color I think all three are red.

pooldoc101 I only know Its for the Losi Onroad car. I had to bend the rod. It came with 4 shaped like a V I shaped it like a squared U. I dont know how well it works yet I ran outa gas on Saturday night and I do know that I could power int the turns without wiping the rear end out. I did notice that thru the woops it seemed alittle loose. Give and take I guess.

MikeWz I noticed that there were little tiny crystal around the inside of the carb. Hum this is alittle suspicious huh. Micro tiny crystals Also around the neck of the gas jug. I never thought anything of it till you mentioned it. Thanks

I'll look for the Yellow Shirts w.e.d.
cave

MikeWz
05-09-2003, 10:33 PM
Cave-BEWARE THE LITTLE CRYSTALS. They'll kill your engine. If you see all those around the carb, just image how many could be in your engine, or even how many could be sucked from the carb into the the engine. I recommend taking off your carb and sprying it out with nitro wash real good. HPI, Wildcatz and Trinity MH are all the same. Trinity platnum has slighty less oil and more alcohol I believe. It's more for racing. It's a great fuel and despite a slightly lower oil content I had the mugen last 6 gallons which is plenty.
CanuckSK-Check the linkages and make sure they aren't loose. Also check the ball studs that the linkages connect to. If they are loose you're steering will also be loose.

cave
05-09-2003, 11:02 PM
I did take the carb off. I used Nitro cleaner to clean the carb and the inside of the engine. That may be why my motor started cutting out on the top. Thanks for bringing it up MikeWz. What the heck are they?silica?
cave

MikeWz
05-09-2003, 11:14 PM
Honestly I'm not sure. It may be something in the the lube they use, or maybe even the dye. Notice how it's the only blue fuel out there (as far as I know). No problem, I figured I'd wanr you so the same thinkg doesn't happen to yours. Only getting one gallon out of an engine really sucks

If anybody here is interested in buying a new and unused Reflex NT with an engine let me know. I bought and built one so my Dad could race with me, but he claims he just doesn't have the time. I'd like to buy a Raptor helicopter so I kinda need the money. Check it out here
http://photos.yahoo.com/cessnaskyhawk123
That plane is also up for grabs. Let Drop me a PM or an e-mail if you guys are interested. I know this isn't the right forum for this, sorry, but I just figured I'd throw it in there:rolleyes:

Got Speed
05-10-2003, 12:10 AM
cave- SRS sells trinity but I wasn't able to get any last time I was there so I decided to try the sidewinder.

maxman142001- I'll be out there from 2 till about an hour after the races.

Canucksk- Like MikeWz said check the linkages and ball studs. Ive had a ball stud on the bellcranks loose up on me before and it had a ton of slop in it on that side.

MikeWz- LOL maybe that is why the first nitro car I got only lasted for a gallon(I was using that fuel then). Maybe it was newbishness. lol :p

pooldoc101
05-10-2003, 04:42 AM
Cave - thanks for the info, I'll look for that. Yhe lhs has a set [front and rear] but there out of stock and the guy didn't know what it was for ,just they were losi. I used to run blue thunder too, noticed the crystals and it stained my air filter blue. Now I'm using maxi's, and it does seem to run cooler.

purplerides
05-10-2003, 09:01 AM
yo what's up i haven't been on here in a while heck the whole format changed...LOL , just stopped by to say hi

MikeWz
05-10-2003, 09:48 AM
GS-I doubt either of our cases was n00bness. Like I said mine was in a CV-R. Which people clain last forever. I had my little TRX .15 last longer than that. I got 3 out of traxxas fuel. Those damn engines run so hot. I decided to Give BT a try because that's all my LHS had. Psh, last time I make that mistake :p :p :p

maxman142001
05-10-2003, 09:54 AM
gotspeed- about what time does racing gas truck end(after mashaling)?

Leland

maxman142001
05-10-2003, 12:08 PM
gotspeed- what should I bring?

Got Speed
05-10-2003, 01:06 PM
MikeWz- Yea, maybe not. It was one of those AE .15 engines in my first car, a GT. :p

maxman142001- It ends about 10 Id say. I would bring a table(or if you get there soon enough like 1 you can use one of theirs), your car (of course), radio with extra rx and tx batterys, at least a quart of fuel, glow ignitor, tools, starter box(if you use one), now that Ive listed all of the obvious stuff :p you may also want to bring an extra set of tires, extra parts if you have them, rags, anything you think you might need pretty much. If you need something I may have something you could borrow. I'll probably be pitting on the wall at the southeast corner. It's a nice place to be able to set your truck and you have a wall to sit on. lol :p

See you there in a few hours.

MikeWz
05-10-2003, 01:38 PM
HA. GT's. Yeah that's definatly worth laughing over. I'm glad to see you bought the NT :D

Scrad
05-10-2003, 02:38 PM
What percent nitro are you guys running? I'm currently using 20%. However I'm looking to switch brands of fuel and a LHS has a good deal on some Wildcat 30%. I have less that a gallon on my CV-R. I'm just wondering if it is ok to increase the nitro percent after you have been running a lower percent for awhile. Thanks.

maxman142001
05-10-2003, 04:01 PM
gotspeed- sorry, change of plans I am not going to make it out there today. Our famliy get-together is going to run until 5:30 so I will not be able to go! So I guess we could meet up next weekend or something.:(

Talk to you later
Leland

MikeWz
05-10-2003, 04:16 PM
Scrad-That'd be just fine. And wildcatz is the best brand of fuel that you can buy. They make trinity, HPI as well. There shouldn't be any problem switching %ages

offroadcrazy01
05-10-2003, 04:26 PM
30% nitro will kill your piston you won't have that engine long yes it will be fast and fun but your cv-r will not last as long

MikeWz
05-10-2003, 04:41 PM
It won't kill your piston-Think about it. You don't run your engine at it's 100% optimal perfmance right. So there is plenty of lubrication. You can richen up a 30% engine more than one with %20 and still put out the same power, therefore still running fine lubrication through your engine. It's really not a problem

grimlock3000
05-10-2003, 10:00 PM
I used to run my truck using the stock suspension setup with 40 weight shock oil. Today I ran though almost a quarter gallon of fuel using the Drake standard setup to see how it would handle.

The Drake setup did wonders for my handling :) With the stock setup, I had a lot of push in corners and had trouble keep all the wheels on the ground through the bumps. The Drake setup lets me power around corners using the gas and keeps the truck in much better contact with the ground at most time. The only downside is that my truck does not seem to get as much air off jumps. Then again, getting less air lets me drive faster overall so it is all good, just not as cool looking :)

pooldoc101
05-11-2003, 06:48 AM
Hey guys, ever since I put my RB in my truck it eats slipper discs. I keep it so it barely slips at all, but after a day of racing the discs are toast! I run dirt oval so we don't do any jumping, does anyone know if it will hurt it if I tighten it more so it doesn't slip at all? I run the diff tight, it barks and chirps when I turn it. I just rebuilt the diff, replaced plates, balls and a new thrust bearing assembly. I'm just getting tired of changing slipper discs. Any help would be appreciated.-Pooldoc

RandomGuy
05-11-2003, 09:30 AM
mike were you at the raceway saturday?...i was there tho it was a horrible day lol. My peice on the motor that the glow plug threads into was stripped before i even got there and i didnt notice it till i stuck the glow plug in. After trying CA glue to keep the plug in and it flying outta my engine after a couple laps i packed it in :( my first day at the track and it sucked! lol now i wont be up and runnin till like wensday *sigh*

winning edge designs
05-11-2003, 10:01 AM
Pooldoc, if your slipper slips enough to burn up slipper discs, you can tighten it. I can't remember the last time I changed those in my truck, lol? I always set my diff as tight as I can just before the diff action gets poor, then tighten the slipper until it tries to slip the diff, loosen 1/4 turn, recheck. Of course you know by now to recheck those adjustments, especially after a 1/2 tank or so and each qualifier, right, :)?.......Jim

RandomGuy
05-11-2003, 10:30 AM
ok i cant find a full explanation of this setup mumbo jumbo so im turning to you guys

1. Toe in..ok i understand what this and how to adjust it with the turnbuckles, but wat do the degrees mean? like if i want 1 degree toe in how much does the turnbuckle need to be adjusted and how? also on the rear toe in on the setup sheets it says inside and outside? wats that?

2. camber and caster..i just have no idea what this is hehe.

3. Shock pistons...i understand what they do and all but should i bother fiddling with them or just fiddle with the oil. Im settin up the drake standard setup and it says 56 pistons from and rear but what comes in the RTR? in my kit manual that came with it it looks like ya have a choice of 56 and 57 hmm..

RCRACER2471
05-11-2003, 10:50 AM
Can i buy this for my XNT??? Or will it work??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX40&P=7

Thanx....

cave
05-11-2003, 02:06 PM
Got Speed Hope I never have another night of racing like that again. First a ballcup popped off in the first heat then my diff or trannie to a dump in the second heat DNF both. I had to switch out trannies between heats. I got second place in the B main. It was all worth it in the end. All the mugens ran so good that Frauncewa bought one last night. He was arlready fast. I got to keep quiet about these little motors.
Now you know why I dont like HoleShots huh lol. They seem to work well at RC Mania. have a safe trip BM
I'll post the group truck picks later. maybe some Tmax race pics. Thos races are funny and dangerous lol.
GS now that you got your Tmax dont forget to stop by and say Waz upppppppppp once and a while . Cool that you fot all thos parts form Frauncewa too. see ya when you get back.

I dont know what thos crystals in my carb where but I dont think I'll use that fuel again unless BT folks print out an explanation of what the heck it is. I tried Sidewinder fuel last night and I think I'll stay with it. My motor ran at 230° give a ° or two. The power was surely there. I like it. I'll need somemore run time before I recamend it.

Pooldoc101 Imcan now say that I love the swaybar for this track setup. Next week they are going to change it so I may have to change it. If you run Oval It should help ya. I can say this , I LIKE IT ALOT. good luck

cave

MikeWz
05-11-2003, 02:13 PM
Randomguy-I opted not to go to the track, because I thought it was going to be insanely busy, being that it was the first day for nitro. Sorry to hear about your engine problems. As for tweaking (degress and what not). You'll need some guages to figure it out. RPM makes some decent guages for it. Camber and caster is the tilt of the top of the tire towards the chassis, or away from it.

cave
05-11-2003, 02:49 PM
Randomguy toe-in is kinda like a pigion toed person or toed out like a Marine standing at attention. If your truck pointed toward you look at the tires if they point towards each other live a "V" then they are toed in. Like a pigion toed If they are teod out the tire will be pointed away from each other like an upside down V. Now your camber is almost the same except that you have to look at your car from head on and level. set it on a table and look at the front then look at the back end. If the tires are not plump ( straight up and down then you hava a - or + canber. take a Aluminum can and set it up agast the tire if the tire sits like this/ or this \ in relation to the aluminum can then you are - or positve on your camber. I rum my rears are at 90° that equall to the aluminum can straight up and down "|"same for my fronts. I get more tire on the surface. This may be different for your track but I seem to have a happy medium. good luck.

cave
05-11-2003, 02:58 PM
Here is agroup pic Mine, Got Speed, TJraceing and Frauncewa. Team Losi trucks all. Mugen to OS lol

winning edge designs
05-11-2003, 04:48 PM
Randomdude(guy), 1. Toe in..ok i understand what this and how to adjust it with the turnbuckles, but wat do the degrees mean? like if i want 1 degree toe in how much does the turnbuckle need to be adjusted and how? also on the rear toe in on the setup sheets it says inside and outside? wats that?

The degrees are simply the sections in a circle, 360 in a circle, so one two degrees is a small adjustment. (On fullsize cars we adjust in 10ths and 100ths of a degree with laser equipment) A hudy set-up will give accurate measurements, but without one, you'll need a good eyeball or mechanical gauge like the RPM one. To add toe-in, lengthen the turnbuckles, to add toe-out, shorten it. Toe measure the difference in degrees from zero or dead straight parallel to each other. Inside toe is set with the arm mount, out side with the rear wheel hubs. They both effect the angle, but have different feel based on things like anti-squat, etc.

2. camber and caster..i just have no idea what this is hehe.

Camber is another measurement like toe, except it refers to the angle of the tire/wheel perpindicular to the surface. ie: 1 Degree negative camber would be one degree inward from 90 degrees square. Castor measures the angle from 90 degrees of the outer kingpin. 20 degrees of castor would mean the kingpin(or balljoints) is 20 degrees away from straight up. More castor generally gives more stability, since it causes more "wieght jacking" and this wants to force the front tires straight. It also plants the inside tire a little firmer due to the same effect.

3. Shock pistons...i understand what they do and all but should i bother fiddling with them or just fiddle with the oil. Im settin up the drake standard setup and it says 56 pistons from and rear but what comes in the RTR? in my kit manual that came with it it looks like ya have a choice of 56 and 57 hmm..

Shocks as with most of these adjustments actually require several books to explain in detail. We can touch on them as well. Since R/C shocks are extremely simple. Though, i'd run set-ups the pros use until you have a firm grasp on set-ups and what you like from your cars. 70% of the racers, it seems, only think they are set-up guru's, but are not...That said....Keep in mind that the springs support the wieght and how it transfers front to rear, side to side and across the chassis at an angle. The oil/piston combination effects how the springs are controlled and how quickly the weight moves in all directions as well.

If you have 57 and 56 pistons i'd start with 30 wt and 57's front and 35 with 56's rear. I'd also use either red, or orange springs up front and orange in the rear, depending on the feel you like........Hope this helps a little, tuff to squeeze much into a single post...:), Jim

cave
05-11-2003, 05:39 PM
Got Speed Here is a pic of your truck.

darkdemon
05-11-2003, 10:54 PM
can i use anther flywheel and clutch assembly than what the truck comes with on the truck? the adam drake?

MikeWz
05-12-2003, 10:42 AM
Yeah that shouldn't be a problem. I have an MIP clutch on mine, and am thinking about putting some kind of light weight flywheel on it, but don't know which one I want to put on yet.

purplerides
05-12-2003, 11:09 AM
mip makes a lightweight flywheel for losi's , i've never used it , i don't think i'd want a lighter flywheel , but i mainly run on a slick track , so a lighter one would make traction even more difficult , plus with lighter flywheels getting the motor to idle can be slightly more difficult , i've haven't tried any other manufactures flywheels , as long as the gears line up you can use it , the other thing you want watch out for is diameter , if it's larger it may hit the ground and flame you out , or you'll have to raise the motor up , if it's smaller you may not be able to bump start it.

MikeWz
05-12-2003, 12:41 PM
Yeah, that's true too, but pretty much any flywheel designed for any ST will fit. I'm thinking about getting the vented flywheel from RR that fits the GT. There shouldn't be any problem fitting that on a drake. As for a lightweight causing idle problems, just set the idle slightly higher, and set the trim to apply a VERY SLIGHT amount of brake's to keep it from moving. Simple as that.

darkdemon
05-12-2003, 01:37 PM
what happens if i put the receiver on top of the steering servo deck and but the battery pack where the receiver is sposed to go that way when i jump i eliminate the risk of braking the batt pack box and bending the chassi will that work? oh if i do i wont use the receiver box protector since i dont have it do you guys think this is good or what can be the ups and downs about this?

darkdemon
05-12-2003, 01:41 PM
i want to install 1/8 wheels on the xxx-nt any references or links to where i can see how to do it? ive seen a truck with 1/8 buggy wheels but cant find it now

dgrobe2112
05-12-2003, 01:56 PM
dark demon.. putting the receiver on top of the servo.. could cause glitching.. especially if you have a graphite chassis brace, i have heard of people putting there batteries over there though.. and also putting some old dead batteries in the current battery box to aid in rear traction.. I have not seen it like that.. maybe some of the guys here have done it..

I put my receiver and ESC in my touring car right next to each other and it glitched really bad..

Not a bad idea though..

Randman
05-12-2003, 05:21 PM
Guys, somethin came up that is a lot more important than RC cars, so I am sellin all of my stuff. Anyone interested in my brand new Drake, it is up on eBay, search for 3131020247 I also have a brand new MP7.5 Kanai 2 up there, Sirio engines, ratzas radio tray, S9451 servo, and a Futaba 40mhz HRS reciever, just view the other auctions. Hopefully I'll be able to get back into the hobby soon.

Viperrgh2
05-12-2003, 07:43 PM
Invalid Item
The item you requested ( 3131020247 ) is invalid, still pending, or no longer in our database. Please check the number and try again. If this message persists, the item has either not started and is not yet available for viewing, or has expired and is no longer available.

RandomGuy
05-12-2003, 07:49 PM
thnx for the suspension adjustment info....another thing to ask :)

ok so my diff is feelin gritty...its not smooth like it used to be arg. Only after a half a gallon! lol is this normal or anything i can do to prevent it. So i guess ill try and lube and clean it first like the manual says...but if i keep running while its still gritty will it cause anymore damage or itll just be decreased performance while im runnin it gritty? thnx

grimlock3000
05-12-2003, 08:19 PM
I recently switched from Wildcat Qwikfire (14% oil) to Wildcat Qwikfire Plus (18% oil). When I put in the new fuel, I left my high end where is was and put my low end back to defaults since that was running a bit too lean anyway. My low end lacked a bit of snap so i gave it 1/8 a turn to lean it. Just like magic, my engine was running better than ever! I can let my truck idle for anywhere from 5 to 10 seconds and when I hit the gas, it takes off with no hesitation. My truck passes the pinch test OK and idles down fine when I let off the throttle. The high end is running great and I always get smoke out of the pipe with good RPM and power. My high needle is at the stock setting which I figure was too rich but it works great. I have no drivability issues once I get the truck moving.

The only issue I have is getting the truck moving after starting or getting it moving once it idle for more than 30 seconds or more. It takes a lot of work to get the engine up to speed or it will stall out. I found the best way to get it going is to leave the glow igniter on, drive around for a few seconds, then take the igniter off once everything clears out. To fix this, what needle should I adjust. Everything else runs so good I want to make sure I turn the right needle before I throw my tune out of whack. My engine is an OS CV-R.

winning edge designs
05-12-2003, 08:50 PM
Randomguy, I wouldn't worry about the "gritty" diff much, it should work fine for a while. If it becomes Very notchy or tries to act like a posi, etc then you'll have to rebiuld it. I usually put it off, if possible, until I'm going to bigger races, where it might matter more. Remember when you do rebuild, the thrust bearing assembly and rings are where most of the feel comes from. When a diff slips a little too much, but not enough to melt, that gritty feel is the result. It is caused by the diff and thrust balls eating into the washers surface unevenly.....................Under magnification it looks like this ~~~~~~~~ and a new one is flat, like this ----------------. The diff balls usually last thru a half dozen diff rings if your using carbide balls.

Grimlock, idling for 30 seconds and then not running right when trying to accelerate means your carb is set correctly. Our race engines aren't made to idle for more then 5 or 10 seconds or so. For example, have you ever been to a motocross race with 2 strokes and heard the engines idling long?.. To have a good long term idle would require a much more complicated carb(3 or more metering circuits, NONE in R/C now) and since we're racing it isn't worth the expense, or weight.......Your engine seems to be running great!....Jim

Randman
05-12-2003, 09:13 PM
Originally posted by Viperrgh2
Invalid Item
The item you requested ( 3131020247 ) is invalid, still pending, or no longer in our database. Please check the number and try again. If this message persists, the item has either not started and is not yet available for viewing, or has expired and is no longer available.

I set it so it would start the auction at 7:30 tonight, so it will go up in about 17 mins.

RandomGuy
05-12-2003, 09:51 PM
wow awsome car rad..if only i could afford it :( lol

grimlock3000
05-12-2003, 10:07 PM
"Grimlock, idling for 30 seconds and then not running right when trying to accelerate means your carb is set correctly."

Ok then :) Do you have any tips for when I first put the truck on the ground? Should I keep it spinning on the box for a few seconds to clear out the engine before taking off the truck or maybe just giving the throttle a good rip right after it starts and I lift the back of the chassis off the box? Or is it normal to have a bit of trouble getting everything going initially and then having everything run good after that?

Randman
05-12-2003, 10:27 PM
It's been up for 45 minutes, and is already at $152, amazes me, it's beating my Kanai 2, which is worth even more than it is, hopefully I wont take a huge loss on selling it so soon.

Got Speed
05-13-2003, 08:49 AM
MikeWZ- Yea, there was such a world of difference between the handling of the two. Like going from a stock t-maxx to a mod buggy, haha. It was a good first car to get thrashed thrashed through newbieness though. LOL! :p :p :p :p

maxman142001- Oh ok. This saturday they start at 4pm. I hope to get there. I'll probably find out thursday.

cave- /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ I hopefully will be able to make it saturday after all. The thing I was going to out of town was canceled. I'll be racing my t-maxx this time. :D Did that tranny out of your drake work out for you? I had pretty much the opposite luck with breaking stuff. I didn't break a single thing :eek: LOL that is probably why I ran so slow :p thanks for the pic. :)

dgrobe2112
05-13-2003, 09:06 AM
Grimlock.. your exactly right.. you will have to give it a good goose or 2.. to clear it out.. that is normal.. everytime i start the truck.. i lift it off the box.. open up the throttle.. just to clear the carb and exhaust.. So your truck is running perfect.. carb is set right.. just clear it after you get it started..

Laterz

darkdemon
05-13-2003, 02:24 PM
this crankshaft is from the original .12r sc with white case and purple head and im trying to get it running but the clutch i have doesnt fit it fits the .15 fe but not the .12 anyone know what cltch and flywheel will fit? this is the crank shaft number you can look at it on the u.s. hpi website under buy hpi and under engine parts for the 12.r sc white case i will really appreciate your help if you can help me i need to know thans in advance

CRANK SHAFT (STD/12R)
Code:1931

dgrobe2112
05-13-2003, 02:31 PM
well fellas, just wanted to say, i got me a new motor.. traded a buddy of mine who is getting rid of his truck.. and he just put in the new motor.. so i asked him to trade me motors and he did..

OS .15 CV-R non ps.. this thing has a slide carb.. and rips.. i was amazed at how fast this thing is.. It pulls wheelies easy..

Now some questions.. i have beefed up my diff, with aluminum diff gear and aluminum top shaft.. the idle gear is the yellow one as well.. I know we have discussed the slipper deal before.. now.. i run my slipper where it slips before the diff.. and that happens to be 5 1/2 turns out.. now.. i took a chance and raced oval this weekend.. and had to replace parts.. i never have to replace parts when i race offroad.. i had to replace the spur gear.. cuz the center of the gear melted.. i am guessing too much slipper.. so i checked with other guys at the track.. they run no slipper.. si i run no slipper.. i am pullin wheelies down the straight.. and break an axel.. so i replace that.. and turn the slipper to 2 turns out.. any suggestions.. am i doing it right or what?? Is no slipper bad?? too much slipper can cause the spur gear to melt.. but now my diff slips before the slipper..

Casper
05-13-2003, 02:39 PM
Running oval you do not need the slipper as much now. The diff will not be loaded as much as jumping in offroad. As long as the diff is tight you should be able to run oval without a slipper. It seems your slipper was just too loose before.

speedydave
05-13-2003, 04:44 PM
Hey guys. I have an opportunity to buy a used XXXNT from a friend of mine. For starters, I know he keeps his equipment in good condition. He bought the XXXNT used but freshly rebuilt, and some hopups(it was a standard kit, he got lunsford turnbuckles, the trinity pivot block, MIP CVDs, and some other stuff), and got an OS .12 CVR that has been used for only one race day, and I helped him tune it on that day and the one other day he's run it(practice day). He also has an Ofna black pre-built starter box. It has no graphite, and is not the Drake kit. It's pretty much been sitting around since he went to college around 10 months ago because he has no time to run it, so he'd like to stick to his T3 and run electric. He said he has 3 sets of tires for it, and a custom painted body he got off Ebay. My question to you guys is, what should I offer him for it? Also, would it even be worth buying? I know it's in good condition, but would it be wiser to just buy new with a Drake and start from there? I'm trying to limit my RC collection down a bit, and the XXXNT would be my primary racer. It would definitely get a rebuild by me before I run it, and I would also pick up some other hopups for it, as well as the fact that I'd need servos and a radio, which I will take care of. What do you guys think? Thanks. :)

pooldoc101
05-13-2003, 07:01 PM
Darkdemon- I put my battery pack up front, not over the servo but between the servo and fuel tank. I have no trouble with glitching, and it gives my truck a lot more steering under power. We have no jumps on a oval track, so I don't know what it does to the balance of truck in air. I still leave the empty battery box on, you gotta have something to pick up the truck with! I run a lightweight flywheel on all my motors except my turbo, it doesn't idle as well as my other motors, and spools up too quick with the lightweight flywheel. But on my nonturbo motors the lightweight flywheel works great!

RandomGuy
05-13-2003, 08:21 PM
is that a built in fuel filter on my XXX-NT sport? its like a mesh(similiar to a fuel filter) on the bottom of my fuel tank. I guess it is lol but does it have to be cleaned periodically? does the thing come apart?

winning edge designs
05-13-2003, 09:25 PM
Grimlock, Dgrobe posted exactly what I was going to say!...Good thing there are alot of experienced XXX-NT fans on this thread, it's tuff to keep up! :).

Dgrobe, I agree with Casper, "you won't need the slipper as much", but I do think you should keep it installed. Rather then remove it, i'd try running it a little tighter. I would try and set it to slip about the same time as the diff if possible. This way it would still help, by avoiding a "locked" drivetrain and cushioning the acceleration of the engine from the drivetrain off the turns....This will help your entire drivetrain live a bit longer, imo.

speedydave, i'd say the truck is likely worth $100-150 without an engine and another $50-100 with one, depending on which and it's condition. The graphite isn't important, but i'd try and get the Drake pipe and brake clips, also see if it has the flesh color compound gear and white diff gear.....Good luck.

Randomguy, that is a filter, and a good one, but it isn't servicable. Aftermarket filters aren't what they're cracked up to be, since they really only keep "chunks" from going to the carb and don't really filter very well. The stock tank filter is stone, rather then screen, so it actually will just need to be replaced once a season. Depending on how much you race. Most racers use add on filters for fuel capacity, since the screen really is a poor filter..........Jim

dgrobe2112
05-14-2003, 01:26 PM
As far as the standard truck goes.. you will want to check the gear inside the diff.. make sure its the tan colored gear.. that is an updated part.. of course you want to get the truck as long as you get a good deal on it.. I personally think 200 may be ok.. cuz you still gotta buy servo's and radio and stuff.. for that you could prolly get a new RTR.. so make sure you check around. You cant go wrong with the Drake truck.. plus you will put it together and know how it goes together and know how to fix it when part breaks..

WED i am definitly not taking the slipper off, what i mean by no slipper.. is with the slipper nut tightened all the way down.. The whole oval thing was just a trial deal to see how the motor ran.. I will be running offroad 99% of the time..

It was just weird that my offroad setup melted the spur gear on the oval.. i was trippin when i saw it..

pooldoc101
05-14-2003, 04:33 PM
I don't know why oval would melt a spur, probably just coincidence.

dgrobe2112
05-14-2003, 04:38 PM
Pooldoc.. i had just taken out a OS .12 CV with .56 hp.. and replaced it with a OS .15 CV-R with 1.2 hp and didnt touch the slipper.. so all that extra power.. im thinkin i prolly should have tightened the slipper a little.. cuz going down the straight.. maybe the slipper was slippin the whole race with that power.. that the only explanation i can think of..

tjraceing
05-14-2003, 05:15 PM
got speed just got a traxxas blast rc boat for the lake that i live on its pretty cool pretty fast too with a fresh batt.

cave
05-14-2003, 07:15 PM
Got Speed you going to be at SRS Thursday? or Saturday?
TJ electricboat? Looks like I need a Nitro Boat huh:D

MikeWz
05-14-2003, 08:05 PM
I just got a new ofna starter box. The one with a single 750 motor. Man does that suck. My first attempt to break in my New MT-12 and the damn motor goes. It didn't even have enough power to turn the thing after TDC. That's pathetic. Definatly do NOT recommend Starter box #10246

winning edge designs
05-14-2003, 08:52 PM
dgrobe, cool, just wanted to drop in my .02 in case, :).

Mike, i've had bad luck with anything other then the giant single motor starter boxes myself. The ones that use the same size motor as a hand held sullivan starter?...I use Ofna boxes, but immediately replace the "cheapo, can't possibly find any wire cheaper", wire in it! Good 12 gauge R/C wire and i've never had it let me down, sometimes myself and 3 or 4 buddies use my box all weekend long!...............Jim

MikeWz
05-14-2003, 09:15 PM
Which model number are you using. I have the one with a single 750 and it really has NO power. I heard the one with two 550's is money, but I wanna get this info from guys running the same car set-up as me.
Cave-which box are you using?

cave
05-14-2003, 09:37 PM
MikeWz I use the Ofna Pink Box I havnt had a problem with mine. I cant remember the Model number But It has a panel on front that I had to install. I use the Glow plug Ignighter and It gets the glow plug red hot. R\ The panel is real easy to put in just follow the directions. Youll need some wire connectors crimp style with a eyelet hole to secure the panel to the power. Not included.
I love it.

cave check it out MikeWz

dkj-M3
05-15-2003, 12:43 AM
MikeWz- It might not be lined up right. Might be hitting the chassi. That's a problem I encountered before. I thought it was the battery, but it was just hitting the bottom of the chassi.

pooldoc101
05-15-2003, 04:31 AM
I use the ofna box with the single large motor, only prolem I ever have had is the rear tire hits the motor, but it hasn't kept it from starting my truck,ever! I would remove the motor from your truck and check wheel alignment on bow, that way you can see the opening for flywwheel.

pooldoc101
05-15-2003, 04:48 AM
Mike WZ- I see from your picture that the tire isn't hitting that huge motor, if it's not then your not lined up with the flywheel. And you mentioned breaking in your new MT-12, every new motor I've had wouldn't turn over either. They're too tight when new, I heat mine up with a blow dryer first so it will spin, I've even had to loosen the glowplug to get my RB to turn over. Don't give up on that box, it's probably the best one out there! Mine has a gel cell battery, I charged it when I first got it and haven't recharged it yet, after 3 months of use every weekend!

cave
05-15-2003, 10:12 AM
Pooldoc
Thats My truck on the Ofna Pink box and your right the tire isnt touching the motor cause its just sitting ontop of the box. Mine works fine. The tire rubs the motor just for a moment. unless I rev the motor.
I just posted a pic of the box with my truck to show it to MikeWz:D

cave

MikeWz
05-15-2003, 10:47 AM
The motor is isnide the box so there's no way I can be touching it. Even when my car is not on the box, and I push down like I'm going to start the car, the wheel barely turns. Even with a fresh charge of the batteries. It's not the car. I checked to make sure all the wires are connected and none where loose. I e-mailed Ofna to see what they can do for me. Maybe I just got a lemon