Team Losi XXXNT forum v6.0

[Got Speed]

cave- I should be there saturday. I'll probably just race T-Maxx this week so I don't have to worry about going back and forth. Don't get a Kyosho boat. LOL I had one once but sold it because it was junk. hehe

tjraceing- Cool. When did you get it?

MikeWz- Me and most people at my track all use the pink ofna box. I love mine. It works great. Ive broken-in engines with it, started .12s and .21s on it. Make sure you plugs are tightened or soldered well because my box's wires wern't connected very well when I got it. This caused it to run realy slow. I connected them good and it has worked fine ever since.

[dgrobe2112]

Mike, i know exactly what your talking about.. i think what is happening.. is the wheel is round enough to hit the chassis in the cut outs of the chassis..

[ - ] is the hole in the chassis.. and the wheel is like this big
----- when it is going up in the chassis.. basically what that means in that your are not directly centered on the wheel.. if you are off center then the wheel will rub on the chassis.. you may cvheck the bottom of the chassis and see if there is any shiny spots where it is rubbing.. on my CV-R it does that.. you have to move the truck a little each way.. to find the right spot..

[MikeWz]

It's hard to see where the flywheel and the the rubber starter wheel line up. It does look like it rubbed the chassis, but I didn't hold it there. If I didn't see the flywheel turn I stopped it. It shouldn't be burnt out already.

[dgrobe2112]

Mike, so your sayin that the motor in your box doesnt turn at all?? even without the truck on it?? that sux if thats the case.. but make sure your batteries are charged or the gel cell is charged.. but try it without the truck on there and see if the wheel turns.. also.. bump the truck without the body on it so you can see down and see if your centered or not.. you may also draw lines on the box.. to center it as well.. once you get a spot that works.. use the little tabs provided and set up the box so all you gotta do is place the truck against the tabs and bump it..

[MikeWz]

Yeah, the motor no longer turns. That's what I'm saying. I check all the wires, and recharged the batteries. Everything is hooked up. The batteries make my rocket launcher beep so I know they are charged.

[cave]

MikeWz Maybe you can upgrade to the pink box. Its been real good to me. My nephew got one too.

Got Speed I'll be there too. Time to change the track. Just when I leaned this one ERRRRRRRRRRRRRr.
You gunna pit with us? Got the losi set up alittle differently I hope it holds up.
Im thinking of trying out that Horizon hobbies Miss Budwieser nitro. I saw a stream on it. looks fun

[RandomGuy]

for all you guys with trouble lining up your cars on the starter box i found this on ebay: item number 3131120735

[purplerides]

mike - as you read many of us use the single motor starter box it's the only way to go, even for my 1/8th scaler , something must not be right , as you indicated your going to check charge and connections , and check the alignment , the only problem i've had once was the push down switch got messed up , and wouldn't turn at all and just prior to it not turning it was weak , i bypassed the push down switch at the track for that day and turn it on and off with the main power switch , after i got home and had time to look at it , the washer and connection tabs needed cleaning up etc. , and as Jim indicated i rewire mine with heavier wire when i build it also.

[Got Speed]

cave- If you don't mind I'll pit with you. I'll probably be there earlier than usual to get some practice in and to tune it. Yea they change it right about the time everyone can get around the track real well. It dosn't get borring that way though. It is a nightmare trying to run on it the race day following it being build because it is sooooooooo loose. That boat looks pretty good at a great price on that boat too.

tjraceing- I know this isn't really related to the XXXN-T but did you have a huge problem tuning in the new traxxas engine in your rustler? After break-in mine is just about untuneable.

[cave]

Got Speed you know your welcome. I'll try to get there early too. i got different set up now. I tryed it out Wedsday eve. It seemed real stable and fast.
TJ had a heck of time tunin his . It got hot quick. He took it to the owner of SRS son. He can tune pretty good.
cave

[dmann33]

I'm looking for sone advice on slipper settings, and I welcome more than one opinion.

I know the slipper needs to be "looser" than the diff in a manner that the slipper will slip before the diff,...but....how much looser exactly is ideal. (I run on a clay track with bowties as step pins are don't hook up well on the harder surface.)

Is the answer just as simple as "as tight as you can run it with out getting too loose in the back end under acceleration"? Or is there more to it?

Look forward to soome feedback.

[RCRACER2471]

Anyone know what oil wt the XNT comes stock? I dont want to find out i have the same wt oil as it was stock.....

[MikeWz]

Got Speed- The TRX 2.5 is REALLY hard to tune, and once you get it, it loses it. They don't hold a tune very well. And that cooling head...Go to the nearest bridge and throw it out. Get one from www.racinghardcore.com The titanium dissipates the heat SO Much better. And the head is about twice the size. Works great

Random Guy-It comes with 35wt front and rear. I left the front as 35wt and just made the back 40wt. The track is farily smooth so you won't have a problem with the extra weight, and it really helps over the jumps. You can keep the springs stock, but the red springs work a bit better in the front. I'll meet you there one week and show you my set-up, if it works for me you shouldn't have a problem with it either. I'll bring in my guages and help you dial it in

[speedydave]

Guys, the TRX 2.5 takes more than the 5 tanks Traxxas tells you to break in. Don't run it hard just yet, and give it another good 5-10 tanks running around, but not race-pace. After it gets about half a gallon through it, it becomes way more consistent and easy to tune. Also, the stock head does suck, but I wouldn't recommend the Hardcore head. The head I'd recommend is the CNR head for the 2.5. Lowers temps a good 40-50 degrees. Their T-Maxx head actually lowers temps so much that you basically will never break 200 with it tuned properly(which is why, even if you're running the 2.5 in a T-Maxx, I'd still get the Rustler/4-Tec head).

As far as boxes go, I've got an Ofna black box(dual 540's...or are they 550's?) for my truck(not yet a XXXNT... :( ), and it's been great for my truck. A few guys have started .21's on it, but it strains the motors enough to make them start to smoke, so I'll stick with just starting .12's on it. I have the Ofna blue box for my 1/8, which has a single 750 motor, and it's able to turn over my TIGHT WS7 when cold at the beginning of the day without even loosening the plug. It was damn hard to get the engine to turn over when brand new, but all engines are like that. The battery in the blue box does have a tendency to discharge itself, but other than that, I've had no problems with the 750 motor.

[MikeWz]

Well I'll have a chat with the guys at OFna. I already e-mailed them. Even if they're willing to give me a new motor. I don't think it's my fault it burnt out the first time. Maybe wires inside the motor were touching and caused it to short!?
Jim and Purplerides-Where do you guys get the wire you use for this? Let me know because I'll try that too

[dkj-M3]

dmann33- I don't go by the number of turns, I run my slipper as tight as I can, but it still slips before the diff.

[Got Speed]

cave- Ok, are you going to be pitting where we were last saturday? If I get there first I'll go over there. It looks like I will be able to come. If we get our car fixed. If not I'll at least be there to rebuild the track. The engine in that T-maxx is a bear to tune since break-in.

dmann33- The slipper isn't ment to be a traction control device but more of a "shock absorber" for the rest of the drive train when you land a jump on the throttle. Many people run their slipper so that it will slip when throttle is applied. That works pretty well. It is really a preference thing. If you are really good with throttle control then you may want a tighter slipper if you tend to nail the throttle all the time then you may want a looser slipper.

MikeWz- That head definatly seems small and cramped for air. I'm planing on getting a better head as soon as I can. That thing is a royal pain to tune. I think there may be a problem with the carb. I have only got one consistent tank that had power and good temps on it since break-in. The carb slide(or whatever it is called, lol) seems to be able to move from side to side a little tiny bit at about half throttle. :eek: Ive heard of lots of ideas on what the problems might be but I don't know. It also binds just a little bit. I'm going to see if they will replace the carb.

[dkj-M3]

ok guys, hows the Orion Wasp been holding up on the track compared too other engines, I'm thinking about getting one tomorrow.

[cave]

I always seem to have an Issue with my slipper. If I want to go fast in the back stretch I have just enough to let it slip. If I want to controll it I would loosen up a bit. For control you may want to play with the settings for your shock placement. There some holes on the A arm try the one on the inside with softer springs for control with less slip. Try all kinds of springs. I have used orange, red and pink. i like the pink but i tend to bottom out a bit. but I seam to handle the corners better. Experament alittle.
Got Speed
We will try to be in the same place. If you get there get before us get a spot and we'll run em from there. See ya. Maxman coming? Good luck MikeWz.
cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Alright. What rear springs are you running right now? Are you going to be staying afterwards to be building the track.

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
ok guys, hows the Orion Wasp been holding up on the track compared too other engines, I'm thinking about getting one tomorrow.

anybody- Jim, Pooldoc

[dgrobe2112]

I have heard good things about the Orion Wasp motor.. i haven not seen them race yet.. i missed the weekend that the Corsicana guys raced those engines.. I was told that the motor has plenty of power, and good overall punch.. and very reliable..

[Casper]

dkj-M3-- You will like this engine. It produces lot of power and still gets good milage! They are not impossilbe to tune either. You will like the engine!

[MikeWz]

DK-Look into the Mugen MT12. Cave can back me up on this one. This engine is sooo fast. It's got endless bottom end, and good top-end to follow up on that too. It holds a tune well, but it can be a pain during break in. Once it's broken in it's unstopable

[dkj-M3]

I know about the Nova's, I've had a side exhaust & still have an RS12 rear exhaust(which is modded & gets 16min running 220). I just want to try something different.

Thx all for the input.

I run on an indoor track during the winter at CRCRC (http://www.crcrc.com/) , & I run at Dirt Country RC Raceway (http://www.DCRCR.com) during the summer, check it out.

[dkj-M3]

here's a pic of my truck in action at Dirt Country

http://204.210.245.93/dcrcr/images/2003/jared/ACD43D.jpg

[purplerides]

mike - it's hard to beleive that the motor burnt out , if it did something was wrong with it for sure , double check that the power is getting to the motor , i thinking the switch that makes the connection when you push down on the car is not making good connection that's the only problem i ever did have , bypass the switch and see if the motor runs.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- What is the best time for me to head over to SRS on a sat.? I was thinking about 1pm. It is going to be soooo freakn hot out there tommorow! Thank god I have a canopey. I cant wait to unlesh my car!By the way what are yours and caves names?

leland

[Got Speed]

maxman142001- 1pm is pretty good. I'll probably be out there about 12 pm. My name is Brandon. LOL I'm 5'4". I'll probably only be racing T-Maxx this time to try it out.:D I'm not giving up on my XXX-NT. It's still my pride and joy. :p They will be starting racing at 4pm this time instead of 6pm because they are going to rebuild the track afterwards. Are you going to stay for that? It usually lasts till about 2am.

[dmann33]

Those washboards look brutal!

[winning edge designs]

Mike, I buy bulk 12ga silicone wire at an electrical supplier. You can buy it at hobby shops as well, like Superior Hobbies in Florida, but a little more money per foot. You'll need about 2 feet of each color(black and red).

For slipper setting, i've found that trying to gain traction thru the slipper leads to erratic handling and acceleration. Not to mention clearing any decent size jumps will be harder. I use my throttle expo to make slippery track handling better, by going negative, as much as -70 at times. Also moving the rear hubs forward helps a ton!
What happens with a loose slipper is the truck won't spin the tires the first few feet, then as the motor spools the tires will break loose anyway. Then once a little sideways you'll back out to try and save it, the slipper will slip a few feet again, and then the tires will break loose again, etc, etc, etc! I find that trying to carry speed (by not overslowing in turns and not pumping the throttle) and being smooth with bringing the power on coming out of loose turns makes for best lap times. This way you still clear the jumps, not to mention you'd never hear of a fullsize off road truck slipping the clutch for traction!.....of course, they also don't pump the gas 8 or 10 times in every turn like most gas racers do, LOL............Jim

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by dmann33
Those washboards look brutal!

Just make sure your up to speed when you go over them, & it seems like they are not even there. Wait til you see the step up table & roller, if your good you can make it consistantly, it's 38ft. total, & a blast to jump. Check out the pics menu & the video of Fantom factory driver Jesse Robbers.

[MikeWz]

How do I bypass the switch. I know there are ground wires connected to the springs in the back, but how do I go about by passing the switch?

[cave]

Got Speed I got to work tomarro but I'll try to make it there before there is no parking. I hope TJ brings his Canape Its gunna be 103 Saturday. And we race at 4 pm It will just be starting to heat up.
MikeWz is right about the Mugen MT 12. Alot of people are using them now and its real tough out there when somany drivers are good already. Now they run Mugens too. If yoiu dont touch the setting from the get go its a real easy motor to tune. I got mine running fat but sweet. I think its gunna last a lot more gallons:D It seems to be like Chevy vs ford type deal at the track I go to. I see CVR's that are fast. there is a guy who has a RB and he can drive too. He is awful fast and consistant.
I've learned so much since I started reading this forum. and I can say that I have learned the hard way about slippers and diffs and pivot blocks and so on. If you race and want to be competetive then ask the fast guys at your track how they are set up. They are either gunna give you good advise or give you a load of crap. When you have a couple of the fast consistant drivers give you the same type of info, you probably just made a friend for life. I have made lots of them.
Got Speed 5'4" Man I think your wrong bro you look more like 5'5' See ya Saturday
cave aka Jimmy aka as of last nights racing thanks to my nephew tj wa haka entering my name as Dumbaskski LOL
later

cave.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- I dont think I am going to stay for rebuilding the track, but do you know what the layout is going to look like? My car has the RTR graphite paint job. See you there at 12 or 1pm.

Leland

[MikeWz]

I only have one other guy at my track running an MT-12(as far as I know), which means only a little bit of compeition. Lol. I pretty much have my car dialed. I'm going to try some pink step-pins though. Caues my tapers didn't hook up too well. Oh well, what can you do. You have some good days and you have some bad days.

[dmann33]

I have a new hitec HS-925MG servo for my xxxnt. However, I went to put on the stock black steering crank and the hole was larger than then the hitec's notched end. In other words, the little grooved teeth on the hitec servo is just a bit smaller then my the stock and other servos.

Do they make a losi crank for this, or should I just cut down the 4-way horn/crank that comes with the servo??

Help!:confused:

[gcoolt]

What are your opinion about a metal geared throttle servo over a plastic one do the metal one jam which would be bad for a throttle servo?

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- Awesome looking track. Those jumps look sweet!

cave- Yea, it will be more like 123 in the sun. It's getting hot too bad we have to start so early. Will you be staying for building the track if you make it there? LOL did scott announce it as dumbaski? :p 5'5" hehe. :p


maxman142001- Hopefully I'll see you then. I think I will be able to make it but there is a possibility I might not get my car(my transportation, lol) fixed by then. I think I can make it though. I havn't seen the new layout yet. I was going to look last week in the window but forgot. I hope there will be some great jumps in it and all again.

[cave]

Got Speed I'm not sure if I'm gunna help out after the race. If I'm not to tired after working I will. No Office work tomarrow I got to work in the shop. I had red springs in the rear with 40 wt oil. Now I got the secret wepon spings made by dumbasski racing. LOL. Youll see. It went from spinning out on the track to flipping in the turns from grip. YEEEEEEEE Hawwwwwwwwww.3
I here the new track wont be so brutal this time around. Alot of people who are regulars say they wont be racing there if the tracks is as butal as this one. It looks like its going to be a faster track with the straight away right in front of us. Two big tabletops that will definatly be responcioble for my future new kickplate LOL.

WE had to race with T max Monsters . I WILL Never Do That Again. Thos Guys And there trucks have no mercy. And They are as fast as the fastest guys. I wanted to pop off afew trucks after the crash up derby ended. it looked like a real Monster truck rally where small cars get demallished by T max speedsters. Good luck bro thos guy are richard crainiums.

I hope I can stay together. Saturday lol

Hey dkj-M3 That track looks like you run on real dirt. WOW looks like fun. I love thos type of moguls. My truck flies over them like they were not even there. This track we run on is like concrete.

cave

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by cave
Good luck bro thos guy are richard crainiums.

Lol. I LOVE that saying. My grandpa uses that all the time. Or **** excavators. That's a good one too.
Cave-What type of track surface are you running on. I'm thinking about trying different springs, but not sure which ones to try

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by MikeWz
Lol. I LOVE that saying. My grandpa uses that all the time. Or A|\|al excavators. That's a good one too.
Cave-What type of track surface are you running on. I'm thinking about trying different springs, but not sure which ones to try

[MikeWz]

sorry for the dbl post. I mean to edit not quote. Those **** is supposed to be A|\|al

[cave]

LMFAO MikeWz Man o man. Its was true too Like they didnt try to go around you they drove over then gunned the throttle to se if they could rip the body off. A|\|al excavators about covers em. yup. LOL

Mike I have gone from orange to red to pink to blue to green to what ever any one whos fast paints em. I think Im gunna like the pink ones with a stiffer oil. I tryed it last night and after the races I loosened up the spings and man it was like glue on the track. You got to do alot of switchin around when the track is calm. I do it on Weds or late Mondays. No one there. Its an open track, no fences. try pink with soft oils going up. I think your gunna like this set up if your running blue groove or CONCRETE hehehehehehe.
O yea Dogbones slightly under level
cave:D

[cave]

dkj-M3 How about sumore pics of the track. Oh yea and your truck racing on it too.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave and maxman142001- Dosn't look now like I will be able to be out there in time for the racing. :( I will probably be out there though later about 9:00-10:00 to be out there for when they start tearing up the track. I will most likely be out there next sautrday though. Hope to see you both out there racing. cave- here is a link to the gallery of dkj-M3's track http://204.210.245.93/dcrcr/

[cave]

That sucks bro. Oh well We'll see ya at 9
cave

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I just got a xxx-nt with a picco.15 in it. I am waiting for my starter box and I was wondering if it would be faster than a GT with the ae.15?

Thanks

[pooldoc101]

dkjM3- I was real pleased with my Wasp, I admit I haven't run it in awhile, it's just sitting there, now that I got my RB I just don't run it. Jim- how do you move the hubs forward? Our track gets real slippery during the mains and am looking for an edge! Pooldoc

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I am having a problem finding front and rear wheels. I am just looking for dish type wheels in red, green or yellow. Anyone have some links to hobby shops?

Thanks



Yes I used to have a RC10GT..... Now I have a Losi XXX-NT!!!

[dmann33]

You can find those wheels at horizon hobby.

www.horizonhobby.com

Type in "xxx-nt" in the search box and ba ding!

You can also call superior hobbies in FL at (407) 834-9299

[Got Speed]

cave- yea, I know. See ya when I get there.

one_mean_rc10gt- A picco .15 is deffinatly far superior to the AE .15 engine(thunder tiger engine). With the same engine the XXX-NT and GT are about the same in top speed.

pooldoc101- There are two spacers on both sides of the axel carrier between the rear suspension arm. If you put the rear spacer in front then you will have a longer wheelbase. The stock setup is in the middle. You can also bring the front spacer to the rear for a shorter wheelbase.

[MikeWz]

You can find red and yellow ones on ebay. Just type in Losi Wheels or Losi rims and there you have it. You'll get the red ones from the francis edition(they fit) and the yellow ones from the Drake edition.

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Thanks for the info!!

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Anyone know where I can download a manual for the XXX-NT?

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I guess www.teamlosi.com would be a good start.

:D

[dkj-M3]

Manuals (http://www.teamlosi.com/exploded/index.htm)

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- My car must be cursed! Right as I was leaving for the track I checked my diff. and it felt gritty. So I took everything apart only to find out that my diff had gone south on me!:mad: The plastic around the diff. balls had melted over the balls causing my diff. to fail. So I went over to HobbyBench and bought 2 diffs. so that if it happens at the track I wont be screwed. Now my diff. is silky smooth! While I was there I talked to Mike about the job and he said that he has like 50 applications and not a lot of customers, so it looks like I will have to look some place else. Sorry to hear about your ride being broke. Maybe I will see you next weekend.

Leland

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Looking for these ....

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=126674

Thanks

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Will stock rc10gt wheels front and rear fit the xxx-nt?


Thanks

[winning edge designs]

one_mean_rc10gt , No the RC10Gt wheels are different then the XXX-NT. Some parts are the same, but only hardware and some bearings, nothing else interchanges.

Maxman, don't leave it silky smooth, or it will melt again, :). From the sound of that i'd tighten the diff another 1/4 turn and check the slipper, but you probably already knew that?.....heh, Jim

[RandomGuy]

any of you guys run CV-Rs in your XXX-NTs? does it drop in nice? keep its tune? power? stop end?

i first was thinkin about the trx 2.5 but then i saw that it only had a SG crank...then i was thinkin about the MT12..but i cant afford the xtra 100 bux for a starter box :( so i think im gonna settle for the CV-RX, the CV-RX is the same as the CV-R only a pull start...right?

[jdm3849]

Right, Don't forget to look a the new Orion .18 that is just like the wasp mbut bored out for more power. Omega makes a line of XT pullstart engines for fairly cheap but make alot of power. (look in the latest RCCA for 22 outlaw engines). O.S. is one of the most reliable engines, will probobly hold its tune best out of all engines.

[Got Speed]

maxman142001- Aww. Too bad. Well, hopefully I'll see you out there next time. I don't see any reason why I can't go next time too. Probably neither of us will get a job there. Oh well Ive got about another 30 aplications to turn in. :p Too bad you didn't get to run on the old track before they tore it up. This one will be fun but it is far more smooth and less jumps. There is one really nice tripple. It is a big single with fairly large roller ending in a tabletop right into a turn alongside the wall.

RandomGuy- The CV-R had good power and top end but not exceptional like some of the higher end racing engines(MT-12, Wasp, C12, etc). I am running the bump start version right now and it is a great engine but does lack a little in power in comarison to some of the racing engines. It tunes very well. I only have to touch my needles 3 or 4 times on a race day to get a perfect tune.

jdm3849- Do the larger engines like the .18s fit? Ive heard some people having trouble with certain .12s fitting so I don't know how well an .18 would fit since they are noticibly larger externally than a .12 or .15.

[MikeWz]

Random Guy-Look at the Fantom FR12RC. They make that in a pull start version and you can find em for about $120-$130 on ebay. They definatly have more power than the OS

[cave]

Too bad you didn't get to run on the old track before they tore it up. This one will be fun but it is far more smooth and less jumps
Maxman
After last night and as of 3:30am today Sunday There were some track layout changes. There is a launch pad type jump that gives 2 options on landings, a double then a Table top. they dont look like much from the drivers stand but when you marshal and get up close to em wow. Dirt bike type jump :D

There are a couple of guys here in Arizona that make aluminum A arms, pivot blocks, battery holder and front and rear shocktowers.
There are very reasonable too. One of our race buddies bought the front & rears A arms front & rear shock towers and battery case. I asked them to make a couple of other parts and these guys are Awsom. They are not set up yet online but as soon as I get the E bay Info I'll post it. I'll also get some pics of the XXXNT thats getting all these parts. I already asked for sponcership. Yea right. I also asked if they could put a little ° to the battery box. Closer to the original . It takes the orion, Triniti XXXNT batterypack. TJraceing bought one last night for 29.00 bucks. The weight difference wasnt all that bad I picked up my Drake compared to the all aluminum one and the All aluminum one was justa tad heavier. Looks cool too.
cave

cave.

[jdm3849]

Most all .18's have the same mounting dimensions as .15's. Alot have the same external size too which is why they are still considered "small-blocks".

[cave]

jdm3849
I seen one of those .18 they are fast. most of the T max guys run en to stay out of the .21 range. they dont allow .21 at SRS where I race
cave

[jdm3849]

Have you spoke to anyone with one in their T-maxx? What have they said about them? More powerful than 2.5's???

Thanks.

Oh, I was looking at buying one for a Ofna LD3. How do you think it will hold up?

[speedydave]

Alright guys, MT12 vs Wasp Offroad, and RBC12 vs Wasp SE...what's your take on these engines? I know TONS of you guys run MT12's, but I want to be different, unless there's some huge reason to just run an MT12.

[MikeWz]

The MT12 is incredible. I took a recommendation from Maverick Racer, becaues that guys knows all about engines. I've never seen anybody with more engine knowledge then him.
The MT12 has ENDLESS bottom end. The torque is just unbelieve able. And somehow, even with a longer stroke, it still has insane top-end. The wasp will give you longer runs, but the MT12 is definatly more powerful.

[winning edge designs]

I can't imagine needing an .18 in a 2wd off-road truck?

My truck is either pulling wheelies, or trying to do donuts, depending on track conditions with the Wasp .12!....An O.S. .15CV-R is too much, but an .18? I'd have to think if there is an .18 that could be run in a 2wd 1/10th truck it would have to be a cheapo sport version......hmmmmm.

speedydave, the Orion Wasp wil have a fuel milegae edge, which may end up being important in a close 30 minute main. The mugen is probably an engine more people will have to help with carb set-up etc though.......Kind of a toss up, unless you are very into being different, then the Wasp is an Excellent choice, until more people realize just how good it is, haha!.........Jim

[MikeWz]

The wasp is definatly a great engine, and does seem to be much easier to tune. I have one in my RTR XXX-NT. My drake has the MT12. The wasp seems to be only slighty better on the fuel consumption, although it's not totally dialed. I don't even have a gallon through it yet. It seems to be a wonderful engine, but not quite as powerful. Once you dial in the MT12 hang on!!!

[maxman142001]

gotspeed and cave- How do the cv-rs still fare at srs? Are they still competitive with other engines?

[dkj-M3]

i got the Wasp guys & I love it. Power & long run times.:D

[Got Speed]

jdm3849- Arn't some of the carb bodies bigger though? I don't think the .18 is neccesary though because as WED said you can't put down all the power of a good .12.

maxman142001- They do quite well still. A good deal of the people are running them out there. Probably about as popular as the MT-12 out there. I run the slide version myself and love it. I would like a little more power though now that I think I can handle it better. :p It dosn't really put you at much of a dissadvantage at all. If you don't race frequently or havn't raced the more mild bottome end will be more beneficial.

cave- That tripple is awesome isn't it!? Those quadruple/moguls are going to be great too. The rest looks kind of tame though. Tell me how it is tuesday or thursday if you go.

[jdm3849]

I knew someone with a XTM .18 and the carb was the same as a OS .15 . Not sure about the orion though, it appears to be normal size. If you were to pair up that .18 with a XNT riding on masher 2k's that would be one helluva' backyard beater! If your bashing, you dont really have to worry about laying the power down, you might just want to beat the crap out of a friend in a drag race, or jump over a couple of friends. It's all about the power :p

[Scrad]

For those of you that have a CV-R, would a head for a CV.15 fit a CV-R.12. I tested the head I want to buy on a CV-R .15 and it fit. The head is a Dynamite O'donnel head. The only difference that I noticed is that the stock hear is tapered in the pug area and the O'donnel head isn't. Just thought I'd check and see.

[cave]

Got Speed It's a ramp lol I watered the track yesterday Its gunna be a faster track. If you stand on the N/E corner you'll see that it really isnt tame. The elevation changes are there. Off camber turns and all. I walked it before I watered it. I took the Nt out on the Road coarse. Hope I dont have to work late. I want to run the first day of racing on tuesday.

I hear alot about fuel milage on here. You guys go 30 minutes without filling up on a stock tank? Do you all pit? We have 4 or 5 minute heats with 5 minute mains. We would be there all night and into the morning If we did that. How long are the heat races? Do the tracks you race at have other classes. We have anywhere from 8 to 15 on the Saturday. 3 to 6 on Tuesday and Thursday I get through with 2/3rds of of tank. i haveleft over fuel. I ususally get out on the track before most. 3 minutes before and I'm on the throttle the whole time. I am still a rooky tho. I still flip on the bib jumps at the beginnig but I settle down as The race gets going.My politness of letting people go buy me has ended lol. How can you go thirty minutes on a stock tank?
The CVR are a great reliable motor. There is a guy here in AZ who cleans the ports up and man his son and his NT are real fast. He got 1st on Saturday night. He wants to port my nephews motor.

Got Speed Did you met the guys selling the Alloy A arms?
cave

[dkj-M3]

cave- Jim meant that you will probably have to make one less pit than an MT-12 for a 30min main, if you have it tuned right.

I have a Novarossi RS12 modded by a friend & it gets 16min running about 220, before the mod it would run about 12-13min.

[G19]

I have a question about charging rx packs.

I have trininty 1150 mah ni-mh 6v rx pack. What charger do you guys use? I have a Intellipeak charger. Would that work? If so what amps should I use and how long?

Cave

I race at plantrc raceway. They run 5 min heats, 10 min B main and 15 min A mains.

[cave]

Aw I see, thats were the better fuel milage comes in 15 Min main wow that would be a tough one How many classes race ?

[LasagnaCat]

G19 - Your Intellipeak will work just fine... if you don't already have one buy or make an adapter to mate with the plug on your rx pack and charge your rx pack at anywhere between .5 and 1 amp until it peaks and is done.

[Got Speed]

jdm3849- Oh yea. Or some dirt works or something. I bet youd be getting some bad wheelies and all. LOL IMO when your bashing having way too much power is more fun. :p

Scrad- A .15 head definatly won't fit a .12 engine. Why don't you get the oddonell head made for the .12?

cave- No I didn't meet the guy. Was he there saturday? If so, was he the guy that stayed to work on the track with all the kids?
Did they change it any sunday? Even if it were high speed Id be fine with it. They almost always have an awesome track even if it isn't exactly what I would like. Do you plan on going to the regionals this fall or any nationals? I emailed Traxxas on my T-maxx engine problem. Hopefully I can get it tuned good enough to race on saturday or they will send me a new carb body by then.

G19- I usually charge mine at 1 amp before I go to the track and recharge at 1.5. I set it to a 20mv peak threshold voltage. They say not to charge more than 1 amp on the orion batterys but I don't see anything wrong with anything less than 2 amps. As a general rule for best battery life and performance Ive heard you don't charge the battery at more than twice what the cells are rated. IE: a 1500 stick pack shouldn't be charged at more than 3 amps. I use a Superbrain 959 to charge all my batts up(which is becoming too many, lol, starter batts for the t-maxx, starter box batts, glow driver batts, micro RS4 packs, RX packs, TX batts, etc.)

[beachbum]

i am kinda new to racing and would like to know what moving your hubs foward or backwards does to your handling? thanks

[Scrad]

That O'donnel head was only $10 in the clearance bin at my LHS. I'll just let my friend have it for his .15.

[dgrobe2112]

JDM.. the .15 head will NOT work on the .12.. i think it lowers compression or something.. but you are not supposed to use it..

I charge my batteries on a quasar pro.. ant .5 amps

[Got Speed]

beachbum-

Forward= shorter wheelbase= more aggresive handling but less stable

Back= longer wheelbase=less aggresive handling but more stable

The stock position is center. I like the center position. It is a good medium between the two. It works well on 7 out of 10 tracks.

Scrad- Oh ok. You may want to check www.nitrohouse.com A few months ago they had a bunch of .12 heads for O.S. for $16. I don't know if they still have them though. The problem with the .15 head is that the head button is bigger on it to fit into the sleeve in the .15 engine.

[beachbum]

thanks got speed,i will try the center. i think mine is in the back now.

[G19]

On sunday they run (nitro only)
2wd truck 2-3 heats
MT 2-3 heats
1/8 bug 1-2 heats


Thanks for the info on charging.

[dkj-M3]

I run at CRCRC (http://www.crcrc.com/) during the winter & they have about 8 heats of truck & 4 heats of 8th scale buggy.

I've been to the planet a few times & went last Sun. b/c dirt country got rained out.

[G19]

dkj-M3

I was at plant last sunday 18. I may go this coming sunday.

[Got Speed]

cave- Do you know if SRS has any 1500s or better stick packs under their used cabinet for about $10? Or a 12V starter box battery inexpensive? I really need one now to be able to start my T-Maxx since I will need my stick packs for my starter box. I bought some extras for $5 for two from some guy at the Cactus. I charged them and one dosn't get past 5V and the other one drops after about 30 seconds of use. :( If you don't mind could you give me the setup you use on tuesday or thursday and how well it worked?

Thanks:)

[rhcsavage21]

dose the xxx-nt wheele?????

[cave]

Got Speed Its a faster track. Real loose tho. I'll email you tonight. francwa ran his truck with all the aluminum and it jumped great. I may have to upgrad. I hit a turnmarshal in the foot at full throttle. He stepped out in front of my truck. Broke an A arm. He said he was ok but he was limping at the end of the night. Later
cave

[MikeWz]

RCHSAVAGE-Yes, if you tigten the slipper all the way, you can easily get the NT to wheelie. Don't recommend it though. It's pretty tough on the diff like that.
Cave-Is there a guy at your track that makes these aluminum parts, or is it rctrix?

[darkdemon]

hey how good do you think my adam drake xxx-nt will hold as a basher i plan on jumping it not to high about 6 feet how durable do you think it is and do you recomend this?

[dgrobe2112]

deamon.. first of all.. the adam drake truck and the XXXNT for that matter is designed to be a race ready truck.. usually races dont consist of jumps like you see in a bashathon.. the jumps are designed to lift the vehicle.. and allow enough flight for drivers to control the vehicle.. i think the truck is very durable.. but of course if you jump it 6 feet in the air and land wrong.. on a flat surface.. or something not designed for landing off a 6 foot jump.. im sur it will break..

i dont personally like bashing.. unless you got a wallet that you can buy parts for.. even the Tmaxx.. is not designed for that kind of abuse..

[cave]

MikeWz its a couple of guys. They drive too so they got a clue as to what breaks. I saw one in action last night. It did fine. Aluminum A arms front & rear, shock towers, battery box and pivot blocks. This thing was sweat. I forgot to get pictures. when they get up to speed I'll post some info. I'll get pictures on Saturday and post em. I seen the guy smack the pipe hard and no problem. We all break are front A arms on that corner if we get loose. He just bounced off. Awsom for you better driovers it may not be a big deal. For me, I'm sold.

Got speed my old set up needs something. Maybe Saturday we can figure it out. Mayfield drove Francswas Losi with all the aluminum. He said there wasnt to much of a difference with the driving and jumping. I may take the Jet boat out on Saturday Im not sur yet. Depends on the price of gas on friday lol.

cave

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- It can depending on the surface and engine you have.

cave- How is that tripple and those quadruple/moguls? Yea, I used to go the first day the track opened its new track but I stopped doing that because of how loose it was. It looked like it would be a real smooth track. Is it? LOL On the last track that they had the straightaway in the front I hit a guy in the foot and broke a front arm. The stupid guy just stepped out there on the straight and started working on his car. :rolleyes: I didn't see him till about 5 feet ahead of him so the brakes didn't slow it a whole lot from full speed. :p I wonder how much an NT would weight with the alum. f/r arms, f/r shock towers, f/r pivot blocks, f/r axel carriers. That would be a pretty rock solid setup. I think i'm going to get one of those trinity pivot blocks and some rear axel carriers though. I seem to break rear axel carriers often. If I upgrade those though I will probably break my first pivot block. lol What is tjracing's first name. Sorry I forgot for some reason. :confused: Will he be out there?

darkdemon- I think it will hold it up to that. Even a 2 foot jump can reck your truck if you land it really bad but if you can land on all four wheels you shouldn't have a lot of problems. Ive had some pretty impressive jumps and crashes at my track before(which is like concrete from how hard the dirt is) and sometimes I have broke and sometimes not. I figure if your going to break something it should be a spectacular crash. :p lol

[darkdemon]

since i plan on jumping it what should i do to protect the chassi from BENDING?

[darkdemon]

since i plan on jumping it what should i do to protect the chassi from BENDING? AND WILL STIFFENING THE SUSpension alot help the chassi to bend or not?

[dgrobe2112]

stiffening the suspension will create more of a bounce.. i think the softer the suspension.. the less force put on the rest of the truck.. the chassis bending?? i dont think it will bend that easy.. i dont know what to tell you about your shocks or suspension.. maybe run a low weight oil with stiff springs.. so you dont blow your seals in your shocks..

[Got Speed]

darkdemon- Unless you plan on doing some really crazy stuff or are going to be doing some high jumps over concrete or something I wouldn't worry about it. If you are still worried native racing makes and aluminum upper deck for it. As far as jumping goes a stiffer suspension will bottom out alor less than a soft suspension will. A stiffer suspension will help you jump higher and farther too. You will probably bounce some on landing though. With a soft suspension you will bottom out and bounce back up. It also won't jump as high or far. For jumping a stiffer suspension will be better. I would say start with 40 wt. oil and some stiffer springs say green maybe?

[winning edge designs]

Cave, you mean you've never run a 45 minute main?!?!?!?......The racers here like 30 and 45 minute mains since they all love to wrench all week and buy fresh parts alot, heh......I tend to think 15 or 20 minutes is plenty. After all you never see them pitting in stadium trucks or buggies, but alot of gas racers like to feel like they can win if they stay running and others don't I guess? But it always seems like the winner just ends up 4, 5 or 6 laps ahead of second after a 45 minute main, usually.

darkdemon, as others have posted, that chassis won't bend in anything but brutal impacts. I've seen XXX-NT's hit curbs at full steam and break the bukheads, arms, shock towers, etc, but still have a flat chassis!............Jumping far is an art and will take some practice. Make sure you have a good supply of spare parts if you don't want to be interupted with trips to the hobby shop!........have fun, jim

[cave]

w.e.d. 45 MINUTES EEEEEEEEEEEK. Man we have 5 minutes in the mains. We have so manny different races that if we did 20 minute mains we would have to camp out!
That would be awsome to go that long. I think I would go through motors more often. On Tuesday we had 9 trucks in our first heat and 4 minutes into the race (5 minute heat race) everyone sept me broke down or ran outa gas. I was out there all by myself. I was kinda bored. Seamed like time stopped too.

rhcsavage21 i got my slipper so I get some slippage and still pull wheelies. Its not a good thing when racing cause your not in control. But it does get the ooooooooooooosssss.

Got Speed It was so loose that I really cant tell if my set up works. I lost the part that holds my spring in place. Found my spring but lost the bottom retainer. That triple that ends with a table top. BRUTAL....... Clearing the double part is cool and if you pardon the phrase got speed its not bad at all. lol. The Quads tho are brutal too if you clear the first 3 your in good shape but if you try to clear em all and miss. well your going to pay dearly. That guy that is there all the time cleared both with his electric. cant remeber his last name. TJ raceing is Tony. full name Tony Jareze Ramon Armondo Ceselio Erving Inloosio Negloso Geradia. lol.
cave

[Shady]

at our last big race, the Ga State Champs (i believe Jim was there) we ran 45 min mains, and to the surprize of many only 1 gas truck fell out and the winner was only 1 lap up on the field. in 1/8 only 2 fell out (one was the guy who was leading at the time)......only problem with the long mains is it took the program later than we were wanting it, so its gonna get bumped to 30 mins for the next big race......at club races the max we run is usually 15 to 20 min but thats only when we have a lot of out of town racers

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by G19
dkj-M3

I was at plant last sunday 18. I may go this coming sunday.

I signed up as KJ got 2nd in the a-main. It's a nice place, but I probably wont be back for awhile(track change), too many other tracks that are close to me.


KJ

[Got Speed]

cave- "Tony Jareze Ramon Armondo Ceselio Erving Inloosio Negloso Geradia" lol ok I couldn't remeber that for some reason :confused: :) Yea, I usually find it to be too loose to find any sort of decent setup too. If you do find one it probably won't be worth anything by saturday lol. Where did you get the sway bar. I'm really thinking of trying one with this track. That tripple looks so fun. I really can't wait to try it. I'll probably try it a few times but during racing I will most likely double it. The lap after the main ends I'll probably try and get set up and go all out for the jump. hehe :p My T-Maxx look hopefull as long as I can keep my battery charger going non-stop all night. lol I'd love a 20 minute main. I think they run them during the regionals. Are you going to be attending them?

[cave]

lol tj he he he he he he Hey I didnt see any battery packs like the one you got. There may be one in the back tho. I got the sway bar at SRS its the one for the on road car. you have to bent it. Scott has Battery boxes now. It was a long time in coming. Tony and francwa got the Alloy ones. Tony didnt screw the bottom screws on the bottom. Now its got a losi bend lol. I dont know how long I can go on a tank of gas. I'll have to time it. Not 45 minutes, I know that aint gunna happen. I may watch the regionals dont know if I can race with thos guys. Are you ????
cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Do you know how much the sway bar was? Tony showed me his box when he just got it. It looks really good. It is identical to the RC Trix box. Does he have any problems with it being flat? I'll probably be at the regionals. It should be early fall. Last year it was on a tuesday. Since it is only gas they can have longer heats. They have several different experience classes too. I think it was $25.

[synapse75]

Ive been running proline step pins wich seem to only come in M3 compound. I have a problem with the tires ballooning out on longer straights. After 8 to 10 runs the ballooning seems to deteriorate the inserts to the point that the tires balloon out so bad it causes it to spin out on occasions.

This weekend im going to give lug nutz a try in an M2 compound.
What tires do you guys run for packed soil/slightly loose dirt?

Right now im running a CVR and plan to switch to a rear exhaust picco, but ive been trying to hold off til i get the tire problem squared away.

Anybody else have problems with losi rims deforming? There is one pretty good sized jump, the track is dug in, so there arent any boards to hit. After few runs the rear rims seem to go out of round, they seem too soft for nitro truck. I also have problems iwth the insides packing full of dirt if the track is over-watered. Why aren't they dished on the inside?

Thanks
jason

[dgrobe2112]

synapse75:

I have never had a problem with the wheels bending.. i do have a problem with the inside filling up with dirt.. it is a problem.. that i think you can buy the dish for the rims.. not sure on that..

Also.. alot of the oval guys here use fishing line, and tie them around the rear wheels to keep the balooning from happening.. and it gets a little more life out of your tires as well..

[dkj-M3]

synapse75- are you using the stock foam that comes with the tire. i think proline foams are not good at all, too soft & do not last long enough. If so, try the trinity bomb 1 grey foam. its stiffer & will out last the tire.

My rims warp after a bad crash, landing on the side of the wheel. I don't worry too much about it tho. I heard the proline wheels for the nt had 1 or 2 extra ribs for more suppot, but i don't know if they still make them.

[pooldoc101]

I too have trouble with theLosi rims bending, so I switched to associated wheels on rear, you just have to change the roll pin as well. Also the associated wheel sticks out about a 1\8" further, haven't tried them on front yet, I hear the bearings are different sizes.

[cave]

I've bought rear rims and had them wobble right out of the bag. Cant get a refund after the tires are glued on. If I race tonight I'll need new tires & rims, I'll check them out first by installing them on the truck first! REFUND for wobbley rims? I got 3 pair like that. Is this a Flaw? I know that these rims are the same for the XXXT.

Ive seen guys wrapping the foams with duct tape before they glue them onto the rims. They seem to run fast and flat. I'm not to sure how the tape holds up after the constant jump landings. I dont have have problems with mud on the inside of the rim cause the track we run on is like wet concrete. Sticky when wet.

[Got Speed]

synapse75- I hate the stock Pro Line foams. You will wear your foams out before the tire is half worn usually. Try some of the Trinity Grey foams. About the ballooning I really don't know. I don't have a problem with it. I have had wheels bend or warp on me though. I think it is from bumping the walls or landing sideways. Ive layed the wheels sideways on the ground and tapped them with a hammer. It seemed to straighten them out. The bent whees don't really give you alot of vibration or anything usually. The only time I have ever had a problem with a vibrating wheel is when the tires weren't glued right.

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
JDM.. the .15 head will NOT work on the .12.. i think it lowers compression or something.. but you are not supposed to use it..

I charge my batteries on a quasar pro.. ant .5 amps

What? lol. I never spoke of putting a .15 head on a .12.
It may lower compression but the worse thing is that it would create poor cooling, but lower CG at the same time. Wouldn't dom it anyways, even if it did work.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- Do you think you could post some pics of the new track layout? Does racing still start at 6:00 or 7:00 on Sat.?

[synapse75]

will give the tinity ones a shot

[Got Speed]

maxman142001- If I can get them small enough I'll post them. If not, I can email them to you. Racing starts at 6pm. I should be out there at around 1pm this time. Where you there last time? Will you be out there this time? If so, what does your truck look like so cave and I know who you are?

[cave]

I was there tonight. It is brutal Got Speed. I've gone through 4 of the eyehole rear suspention parts tonight. Thge one at the bottom of the shock shaft that connects to the A arm. I striped them right out, I stripped the front two holes in the front of my trinity aluminum pivot block Hope I can upsize or I'll have to buy a new one. The track looks easy but its got alot of turns that have the PVC pipe borders. Itys getting stickier too. I power int the turns. It was so much fun tonight. I flipped my truck in the tripple and it shut off. too bad for me lol.
maxman I got a white tahoe usually with a white ford expadition. stop by and say hi lol
cave

[dgrobe2112]

Originally posted by jdm3849
What? lol. I never spoke of putting a .15 head on a .12.
It may lower compression but the worse thing is that it would create poor cooling, but lower CG at the same time. Wouldn't dom it anyways, even if it did work.

My bad JDM.. i saw where i posted a reply to that.. and re read the post i was answering.. the guy wanted to put a .15 CVR head on a .12 CVR.. i was thinkin they were asking a .15 CVR head on a .12 CV motor..

Sorry bout that..

[Got Speed]

cave- Did you break all the parts on the tripple? Were you able to tripple the whole thing? I can hardly wait to try it tommorow. lol Like a little kid that can't sleep Christmas Eve. :p

[rhcsavage21]

could you please tell me all the metel gears i can get for my
xxx-nt. i know 2 of them LOS9931 and RRP9500. i am looking for the spur gear and the brake gear. thanks for the help.




:D RHCSAVAGE21 :D

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- The spur gear is made by robinson racing. I'm sorry I can't help you out with any numbers. I think their web site is www.robinsonracingproducts.com Just to make sure, you do know that all metal gears will add a ton of rotating weight and slow acceleration. If you are busting up gears all the time the solution is most likely not buying metal gears but in taking care of the plastic ones.

[rhcsavage21]

well actualy i don't have my xxx-nt yet. and with past prbumes with my other rc car i just want to be ready.

[synapse75]

I agree Got Speed.

i still use a plastic diff gear, if the diff is built and set right along with the slipper it seems to work fine with a side exhaust motor. I suspect with a rear exhaust it may need an alum diff gear to hold up to the added low-end power. Ive also found if you run a bead of silicone grease around the tranny case seam, it holds out nearly all dirt and prolongs the life of the gears and diff.

I see no reason to ever use a metal spur gear. So far the spur gears seem to practically outlast the metal clutchbells. The plastic one holds up fine, and a steel spur gear would be far too much rotating mass, or even stationary weight...

[MikeWz]

In 6 months of racing my XXX-NT I've never burnt out a Spur. The metal spur will only transfer the force into your diff, and than melt all the gears in there. Be my guest and get all the diff gears metal as well, but your car will lake serious power because of the extra power needed to make them turn.
The spur is designed to break first for mainly two reasons:
1.) They are cheaper than diff parts/metal spurs
2.) They are easier to replace than diffs.
Highly don't recommend the metal spurs.

[synapse75]

i see the plastic gears as one of the largest advantages against the RC10 GT. It seems most of them run all metal gears.

[cave]

rhcsavage21 soon to rhcxxxnt?? I got a bottom end motor and I still have the plastic diff. I have replaced it more than a few times but the one I got in there now has been in there for a couple of weeks with some real hard minutes on it. I think I may have the diff and the slipper adjusted just right:) Stay with the plastic. I dont know anyone using one for racing. We even joke about it with one of our racing buddies. He got one and now he cant even give it away lol.

Got Speed what time tomarro you gunna get there. TJ got a Mugen tonight. I cant clear the tripple but when the track looses its dust and gets a little groove maybe then I'll get to tripple it. Everyone wants to move it cause if you do clear it you smack the wall lol. I broke broke the screws in the rear pivt block. Does trinity offer a lifetime deal? I Keep stripping the bottom retainer on the shock shaft on the left side. Pulls right out. I tryed supper glue to make it thru the main. They alowed a couple of Tmax racers out there with us. NO FUN. They run us over in the turns. I tryed to keep out in front of them but these guys are fast. and are able to power into the turns with all wheel drives.
See ya Saturday GS. How about Maxman, Get Sideways and bob you gunna be there?
cave

[rhcsavage21]

well i still have a ultima rb gp and i all i have to get for it is a new spur gear every time i run it so well this is good news for me.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed-email them to me at maxman142001@netzero.net. Last time I was rebuilding my diff. at home. I will try to be out there tommorow.:cool:

Leland

[cave]

MikeWz You know how I feel about the Mugen. It was running real good at last nights races. maybe too good. How well do you like the WASP?
It may be OK I just want to be informed on the next motor. I was riunning at 230° +- a° man That truck moves. I kept up with all the fast guys in the straights. Pulled them in too. Be hard to go with anything else.
cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-Buddy, you know I'm sold on the MT12. This is my second one, and so far I have found NO reason to switch. In the medium mains at my track (30-mins) both the WASP and my MT12 have to pit once for fuel. In the longer ones(45's) we both have to pit 2 times. They'll just got a few more laps before they have to pit, which you make back up when they pit, so I don't really worry about the effiencey. Not a drastic difference. My MT12 seems strong not only low-end, but in the straights against the WASP. The only engine that can take me on the back straight is the C12, which doesn't matter because I take him on the in-side. He takes back some time on the straight, but not enough to catch me :D
It's up to you. If your MT is running as well as you say, there's no reason to switch right:p

[dkj-M3]

cave- when you put on a new shock-end use some CA, that will keep them from wearing out as quick. Get rid of the stripped one that you CA'ed, it will come loose again.

[cave]

MikeWz I just wanted someones opinion that I know has both engines. I think my Mugen is awsome. No reason to change. I will probley rebuild this one. I'm told to do it only once then get a new one.
cave

[cave]

dkj-M3

thanks bro. I did tose the bad ones. A couple too late lol. I CAed the new ones on there now. That tripple hurts. It left a big MARK lol.
cave

[dkj-M3]

I have an RS12 & the Wasp & the power is pretty much equal. I don't like the Wasp's carb tho, it is real sensitive. My Novas carb is much more broader, It's not a problem, but I can dial in my tune easier with my Nova's carb. I might try an OS carb later. Looks like i'll have to try out the Siro & MT12 next.

[MikeWz]

Anybody tried RR's "Absolute" Spur's. They're 48 pitch though, and i'm pretty sure the Losi clutchbell is 32 pitch

[purplerides]

i use all the stock gears they work fine , the metals not only slow acceleration , but they would also be tougher to slow down once they got up to speed , so you lose time at the top off the straight from slow accel. then you got to let off early to whoa them down at the end off the straight , not to mention accel for a jump. the stock gears are fine.

[MikeWz]

It's not a metal gear. It's plastic. The only difference is it's 48 pitch. The higher the pitch the finer the gear ratio adjustments you can make. It says the were designed for losi buggies and trucks, but the fact that they say buggies makes me think it's only for electric, as I can't find a 48 pitch clutchbell. I'd like to get 64 pitch for the XXX-NT, but they don't even have spurs for it listed.

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- As long as you keep it all adjusted right you should very rarely have to replace a worn gear.

cave- I should be out there at about 1pm. How much did TJ get his mugen for? Usually after the first month on a new track it seems like they move things around a little. That tripple does need moved if anyone will clear it. You'll be going pretty fast when you hit that wall. For a truck I doubt there is any way to avoid it, if it is trippled.

maxman142001- I will. What does your truck look like? So I know who you are out there. Several pages back you will see a pic of my truck, cave's truck, and tjracing's truck in one pic. See you out there.

[synapse75]

i think RR stopped production on the absolute spurs

[synapse75]

this is the MT12 you guys needs :D
http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3132444258

[synapse75]

search for this item#
3132444258

[rhcsavage21]

well i also am planing on geting a sirio TX-18 in to it too

[synapse75]

are you planning to race with that?
I thing roar only allows .12, but most clubs and tracks allow .15s because of all the ppl that show up with RTRs.

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I just picked up a used Losi XXX-NT kit with a picco .15 bump start motor. What are the weak parts if any of the Losi. I have spare rear arms, front arms and axle carriers.

Thanks

[rhcsavage21]

well i am not sure at the track i plan on going to but manly for parking lot racing.

[synapse75]

with a hot .18 on pavement im not sure if you will be able to drive it in a straight line. You are deffinitely going to want to invest in foam tires.


Only thing ive broke on my XXXNT in the two years ive been racing it, is a couple of rod-ends. I have the drake version. I replaced the rear pivot block with the trinity alum piece as soon as i built it. I think ive dented a few front shock bodies too... (we race rough on occasion)... :)

[MikeWz]

The diff tends to be a weak spot on these trucks

[synapse75]

Im getting ready to install the tinity picco...

Is it possible to install the losi clutch with just adding a flywheel nut? I havent tried it yet. It looks like you could bolt down the flywheel with a flywheel nut, then the clutch bell and stock spacer with a screw on the end, does it work that way?

Why doesnt losi sell a complete clutch kit. I want to leave the old clutch on the CVR so i have a backup motor that i can just stick right in.

[winning edge designs]

synapse, the Losi clutch uses a clutch nut that is also the bearing tube for the clutch bell bearings. It sounds like your talking about an SG type crank? Since the correct crank doesn't have a threaded hole in the end of it.

The TeamLosi clutch parts you'll need are,
A9372 flywheel
A9369 nut/bearing tube
A9370 retainer clip
A9375 flywheel pins(for shoes)
A9362 clutch shoes and spring
A6931 bearings pr..................Jim

[synapse75]

Im looking to install a trinity picco motor that ive had sitting around for years that ive never used for onroad racing. It has an SG/Pilot shaft crank. I havent tried it yet, but it looks like with a flywheel nut, the losi clutch will fit right on. I was wondering if anybody has tried it yet around here...

Thanks
jason

[jcdas1212]

I have a Team Associated Starter but it does not work for the Losi.

What do you guys use?

Thanks



Tom

[dkj-M3]

synapse75- it wont fit the thread is not the same

[synapse75]

i take it im going to have to find out on my own...

Have you installed a clutch on a .21, its the same thing. There is a special flywheel nut that holds the flywheel on, then the clutch bell w/ bearins rides on the crank shaft its self, hence the name pilot shaft(I'm not sure where the name SG shaft came from). Then there is an M3 screw that holds the clutchbell on.

So far all ive done is 'eyed' it, because i dont want to take the clutch off my other motor. Friday I should have all the parts to try to install the picco. From looking at it, it looks like it will work, otherwise I will have lots of spare clutch parts...

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

I've had good luck with the Dynamite 5610..........

[dkj-M3]

synapse75- Let us know if you get it to work.

Team Losi (http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/xxxnt_crank.htm)

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i have been racing a Dominator for a few weeks now.. and it is making me a better 2wd driver.. this weekend.. i was racing and finished 2nd in the main out our local track.. also.. i put a .15 CV-R in my truck as well but check out the pic..

[jcdas1212]

Starter box

[cave]

jcdas1212
I got a Ofna Pink box you can see it around 8 pages back or so. Cant you reposition the pegs?

one_mean_rc10gt
Rear pivot blocks. I snaped mine just seconds out of the box. I switched to an Trinity aluminum pivot block. Now I break rear arms easier but we have 5 minute mains and its quiker to change the rear arms than the pivot block. It cost 10 times morethan plastic but I still have it and it looks cool too. Like MikeWz said the diff will go if you dont have your slipper adjusted right. Ball studs break if you have a track with awsome jumps. If you can upgrade to the titanium turnbuckles with RPM ball cups. The stocks ones are fine if you never touch the sides of the track or curb.
There is so much more. youll just have to break em on your track to find out what goes first. Just ask people who have Losi's at your home turf.

dgrobe2112 Awsome pics. Is that dirt? Man our track is I swear concrete. AZ hard dirt mixed with alittle clay.

cave

[cave]

Got Speed Send the ppic to me. Tony says you got some of my truck last night...:cool:

[winning edge designs]

synapse75, the sg crank will not work unless you can come up with a different clutch bell and engine mounts to re align it all. Since the stock clutch bell lays almost flush with the flywheel inside, a nut won't fit in between. Not to mention the sg cranks are metric and the Losi bearings and clutch bell use standard, or s.a.e. specs. It probably could be done, but by the time it gets all sorted out it will surely be more aggravating then selling off the sg engine and picking up a standard crank engine(and laying out the difference).

I think the term sg comes from the engine manufacturers throwing it around, mostly in on-road circles. Not sure, but the TeamLosi set up basically is like a pilot shaft set up, but using s.a.e. bearings and replacable bearing surfaces..........Jim

[synapse75]

jim

thanks for the info...

I thought about the bearing problem lastnight. I was going to look up the bearing size in the manual tomorrow morning to figure out if they were metric or not.
I had also thought about the nut being too long, and i figured i could cut it down.
I thought the alignment wouldnt be an issue because the the flywheel would go up against the motor on the collet as usual, and as long as the clutchbell could be pushed on enough alignment would be ok.

I think i can buy a threaded crank for the motor, ive already tried selling it.

Instead of threading on a shaft, it seems it would be better to have the clutch and bearings ride on the actual crank shaft...

anways, thanks again for the info

[rhcsavage21]

is the hard core racing titanum chassie lighter then the stock version???:confused:

[cave]

rhcsavage21
Are you going to race your XXXNT? If not why buy a titanium chassis? You could buy parts that do break often for the price of that chassis. Upgrade your servos or get sum alloy pivot blocks. I run the heck out of my truck and I havnt bent the chassis yet! If you really want it go for it. Titanium turnbuckles would be a better buy don t forget the RPM ball cups and Titanium ball studs.
cave

[rhcsavage21]

god dang i was just woundering.
i have nothing better to do right know so i found it and had a question. dang.

[cave]

sorry, I thought you were going to through money away. I always ask these guys for advice before I get something new. w.e.d., Got Speed, MikeWz and others have always given me sound advice. Just trying to do the same. From the way you asked your question it read as if you raced and were concered about weight. I wasnt bashin ya.
cave

[dgrobe2112]

Cave, yeah, they had just watered the track before that race.. and we got a local guy who takes some really good pics.. so i would like to share them with yall.. But yeah.. we got a pretty loamy track.. especially when its wet.. but if they dont wet it between races.. it gets pretty slick and dusty..

[cave]

dgrobe2112 keep them coming! I like the action shots... Got Speed, when he has time in between heats takes some pictures too. I hope he got some of mine from last nights racing. I swear our track is as hard as concrete. Would be nice to run on a "pretty loamy track". lol. That guy takes some really cool pictures. I checked out that track site and there are alot of good pics on there. Lots of action shots...
I heard from the locals that there was a guy from one of the RC mags out at SRS Saturday night taking some shots of a couple of local hot shots. Only one raced tho. Hopefully he got some of my truck soaring over the triples. OOP s I mean trying to soar over the tripples.LOLOLOLOL.
cave

[WheelNut]

What posistion are you guys running the rear camber link in? A or B? I'm running A right now. But I think I'm going to goto B since my ball cups keep freaking coming off the turnbuckles! Not to mention thats what Drake runs. Also just wondering how this will affect my traction? I think it will make the truck more responsive, is that right? Mabye take away some rear traction but give better bump handling? I dunno, I read about all the adjustments before.

[cave]

WheelNut how old are the cups and ball studs?
cave

[winning edge designs]

wheelnut, I use the A hole (will that get censored?) myself. It seems better thru bumps and has more rear traction thru the middle of the turns, imo, on my tracks. The B or outer hub carrier hole makes the truck stay a little flatter thru the middle of the turn and feels "square" in turns as well. It(B) seems to provide more forward traction, less on power steering and makes the truck rotate better after initial turn in.

Cave, I wouldn't recommend a titanium chassis either, lol. We know 2wd gas trucks usually need more traction on Florida tracks, so less weight in the back of the truck wouldn't help.......But like alot of the equipment companies sell, people will buy it, hoping to take home the tropphy at the next race........Couldn't we all save alot of money by just buying the $8.00 trophies ourselves, haha....j/k........Let's race!!! ...Jim

[rhcsavage21]

how is the sirio .15 standard (S15TUP AF) and is it posibble to swich the crank??
i am uaing a .12 or .15 cv-rx.
and i here that the sirio is 1.7 horsepower!:D

[cave]

Couldn't we all save alot of money by just buying the $8.00 trophies ourselves, haha....j/k........Let's race!!!
LOL thats so true Jim .Words of wisdom. Sure would be nice to earn one tho.

I havnt got the "got to win atitude" yet. Man I just want to finish in one piece.;) I have seen some stuff here In AZ that I may get only because I still need some practice and I think It may hold up better than stock. I still hit the wall sometimes. There is a plywood retainer that sticks out a bit and if you clear the tripple and land to the right, its going to leave more than a mark... I like the aluminum A arms but I'm alittle concered about the pivot shafts wearing the holes out of round. I drive the heck out of this truck. I think Its time to switch everything good onto the Drake I got before I strip it, lol.

Got Speed you there bro? Dont hang up the xxxnt. Get a Mugen or Wasp. Maybe a RB, those motors are so fast. Did you get the link for the Big head Mugen MT .12 I sent ya ????

cave

[MikeWz]

Gotspeed-What's this I hear about hangin up the 'ole XXX-NT. Com'on now. I'm having some problems with my starter box and can't even break in my New MT12 right now. I hope Cave's not right in saying you're gonna hang her up :(
Cave-I've got the new Big Head MT12. I wish I could start the damn thing and tell you if there's a noticable difference. Stupid Box!!! :rolleyes:

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
how is the sirio .15 standard (S15TUP AF) and is it posibble to swich the crank??
i am uaing a .12 or .15 cv-rx.
and i here that the sirio is 1.7 horsepower!:D


well???

[MikeWz]

Sorry man, I read that post and said I was gonna post a response but totaly forgot. Here's what I have to say

I'd stay away from it. It's really made for on-road cars. The crank is somewhat short so it has higher rpm and not so much low end. If you're set on a .15(which you can't race with), than the Fantom FR-15 is an excellent choice. It puts out slightly less top-end than the Sirio but has more low-end punch

If you want to race than go with the MT12, and some people are big on the WASP as well. Both great choices you can't go wrong with.

A good compeition .15 engine will be a bit too much power for an off-road anyway. You'd have to get some MT tires to keep the power to the ground. It's not really worth it.

[speedydave]

Anyone have any comments about rumors I've been hearing about NovaRossi rotary carbs not being very good?

[rhcsavage21]

ok my cv is a .12 and i am going for another .12.
we can i find a wasp???

[dkj-M3]

the only problem with the nova carb, is that you need to put a little WD-40 inside the little rubber boot, b/c it sticks when new. Other than that, i love'em. I can dial in a temp and get it to within +-3* & it holds it. I also have a Wasp, I like the power but not the carb, I'll be putting my noava's carb on it. That's what a buddy of mine did, he had to take some off the bottom of the neck & it slide right in.

[winning edge designs]

I've had rotary novarossi carbs and haven't had problems with them. But I have heard the same thing. It probably comes from them being more prone to air leaks in the throttle bore, or neck, etc., then an O.S. is. But if precautions are taken, like cleaning after use, sealants, like silicone, on the neck area before even installing the engine you should be fine. The Picco/Wasp carb is about the same in my experience, rating second to the O.S. carb, but still usable with some extra care. I've seen engines that peope swore had bad carbs that I bought for $40 and it turned out to be the wrong glow plug, or a missing head shim, etc.........Some just require a little more patience.

rhcsavage, try superiorhobbies dot com, or JR hobbies in Florida......Jim

[rhcsavage21]

supperior hobbies site is down.

[cave]

Disclamer: I dont have a Novarossi rotary carb.....

I myself Heard that Novarossi carbs wear quickly at the throttle arm. ( Break and get loose easy). They come loose and what w.e.d. said above, air leaks on the neck of the carb. I seen this on another guys Mugen. I told him I was going to order a rotary carb for my Mugen and he about yelled at me. His pops has been racing for years and still has the used motors in his truck to prove it. He also told me to stick with the slide carb on my Mugen. Mugen is made by Novarossi they share the same carbs both slide and rotary. My nephew bought a Mugen with a rotary. I guess I will know for sure if this carb sucks. lol. There are three trucks now with Mugens w/ rotary. I know one is going to be retired. The other guy who has a rotary seems to always be messin with the adjustment. I dont talk to him about it cause he always looks pissed. He may be dialing it in. I have gotten used to the slide. I got the end point where I want them. Now my truck is real fast. If I could only turn and jump like the locals. LOOK Out when I do. lol.
I have heard of people using the OS rotary carbs with graet success. I dont know what kind of mods have to be done but I hear the Nova guys talking about how they did it. Seams you need an adapter at the neck.

MikeWz
Got Speed got a Tmax for racing. I dont think he is going to sell the Losi. He 's got a new nitro and is anxious to dial it in. He lost compression on the CVR at the track on Saturday night. Tj offered to front him the Engine if they had the one he wanted. All they had was a Wasp W/ pullstart. All out of Mugens. The CVR they had also had a pullstart. Hopefully he'll be back to racing with a new Wasp or Ofna siro? or Os CVR or MUGEN . GS dont make a liar out a me:D

cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-Oh, that's what all the 2.5 blues were about. Damn those CV engines. I only got a gallon out of mine in the maxx. It probably wasn't the engine, it must have been the damn blue thunder. Stupid fuel.

[Rog]

Hi guys. New XXXNT owner and had a few questions. First off, everyone keeps telling me I have too much power. I'm running an RB X12 rear exhaust engine. Is that an ok engine to use? I figure, if Adam Drake runs a modded Picco, my X12 isn't "too much" power. Secondly, when I give it gas, the back end steps out to the right. I have my diff and slipper set correctly based on the manual. I loosened the slipper 1/2 a turn and it was better but still did it quite a bit. My friend is having the same problem but he's running a CV-R and his slipper nut is way out towards the end of the screw. So right now, we're both kinda baffled. Any suggestions? Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, rog.. your motor is a very powerful motor.. if your gonna be racing.. there really isnt need for that much power.. there are guys at the my local track who run OS .12 CV motors.. exactly half the power of a CV-R motor.. and still win, or place on a consistant basis.. so as far as your motor having too much power.. its all about the driver skills.. you cant base your skills against Adam Drake.. cuz look at his abilities.. and yours.. If you can handle the power.. great.. but if your on the track.. and racing.. and cant keep up.. cuz you spin out.. or as you say your truck steps out under power.. then you may consider getting a weaker engine for racing until you get better..

Now as far as your slipper goes.. there are so many different theories.. you can run a loose slipper.. but with that much power.. you will just be using your slipper pads.. if i remember correctly.. the books says 3 turns out on the slipper right?? I was running my slipper at 5 turns out for offroad racing.. and i tightened it to 1 turn out for oval racing..

The tighter the slipper.. the more instant power.. means the more spinning tires.. the looser slipper, more slippage in the diff.. mo spinning tires..

[cave]

rog cant you adjust the end point on your radio? I did this with my Mugen at first. Thats how I got used to the power. Now I'm full open and use my trigger finger to adjust for that type of power. I still do power to the left tho. I just let off slightly and my truck goes straight.

MikeWz The CV R he has has been reliable to this point. 2 strokes are two strokes ya know:D god bless em

cave

[rhcsavage21]

are there any other places to find wasp engines????

[dgrobe2112]

savage.. you can get them at www.towerhobbies.com

Cave, your right.. i didnt think of the endpoint adjustment.. or adjusting the high throttle knob on the radio.. but any motor with that kind of power, you will spin tires and also your truck will step out..

[Rog]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I guess I could turn my end points down. I also have an JR R1 and can tweak the throttle curve. I just thought maybe there was a diff or slipper setting that I didn't have correctly. When I'm on the straight and have the truck going and I mash the throttle, the front end wants to lift off the ground. Is it ok to loosen the slipper a bit more?

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. you can loosen the slipper a little more.. like i said.. i had mine at 5 turns out.. just a matter of your track..

[RandomGuy]

hey quick questions...head gastket(the gold flimsy thing lol)..mine looks kinda black and screwy and not good so i figured i get a new one. But when i got it, it looked a little thicker..i think the one I had was .01mm and this one is .02 mm..will this affect anything? thnx

[RandomGuy]

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA99100

anyone try these? ive been havin major problems stripping all my hex screws(especially the chassis screws) as well as the crappy allen keys. Its been a real pain..at the moment i cant take my engine out cause too much thread lock and stripped the screws :( .would these wrenches help or id just strip more screws instead of the allen keys? i guess one outta the two not stripping is alwyas good lol

[dkj-M3]

RandomGuy- the dynamites are a lot cheaper. make sure you clean the dirt out of the screws before you tighten/untighten them. I've never used threadlock on the chassis engine screws & never had a problem with them coming loose.

[winning edge designs]

Rog, not to step on your ability, i'd say the same for myself, but your engine isn't "too much power", for Adam Drake, hehe.

I'd be carefull using slipper adjustments to stop wheel spin. It takes a considerably over loosened slipper to stop the tires from breaking loose on a sandy dry track, making it tuff to clear jumps and you'll still be loose once up to speed in the corners, sweepers, etc. Not to mention the slipper will slip to much on good sections and not enough in the worst......Still takes throttle control mostly. I've had good luck using negative throttle expo too, but tires are the biggest change, next biggest i'd say moving the rear hubs forward in the arms.......Zero camber, +1 rear toe hubs and some other things will give you more traction and you'll still make it over a double jump!.....I prefer to use the slipper to cushion the drivetrain from landings, thru moguls and for diff life, rather then for traction.......Jim

[cave]

Rog
If your pulling wheelies you should lossen it up just a tad. Try loosing it till you no longer pull wheelies on demand. It looks cool but when you have to break your tranny apart because of a stripped diff, Well you will be pissed. Better to slip at the slipper. Think about all that tork getting to the wheels after a big jump landing. Ouch new diff gears. Its not a big deal to change em. It just sucks if you have it go during a race.

cave

[cave]

w.e.d. What clutch bell do you use. Locals keep telling me to get a 19 or 20 tooth. Does it really make a big difference adding a tooth or two?
cave

[rhcsavage21]

could the xxx-nt clutch bell work with a ofna .15 3-shoe slutch system???? i have the cutch but really need to know.

[purplerides]

slipper adjustment on a gas truck should be as jim said to cushion the drive train for jumps , moguls diff. life etc. , you can't adjust it affectively for traction control without slipping too much and over heating the slipper pads , unlike an electric vehicle which you make slip the first couple of feet because an electric motor has it's most torque as it starts from 0 rpm's then torque disipates as rpm's build , but a gas motor builds it's torque high in the rpm range , so if slipper is to loose it will start slipping 1/2 down the strait. i check the temp. of my slipper by touch after a each heat or practice run the slipper should be warm, not hot , if you can't hold you finger on there because it's to hot then your slipper is to loose. if it's cold or close to ambient , then it's to tight and you beating the tar out of your diff. , if your skin sticks to it then your way loose.

[winning edge designs]

Cave, I use an 18 usually, but a 19 when I go to real gas tracks. Most of our local tracks are relatively short compared to tracks where 1/8th buggies are very popular. Ours are usually 60x100 or about that. We have one track in Kissimmee(boggy creek), where I run a 19. That track is about 200x90. A higher gearing usually helps traction, but in some situations(Very loose) it can actually hurt, because once the tires do break loose, they'll spin even faster with taller gearing. I notice the gearing helps with fuel mileage a little as well.

rhcsavage, I'd stay with A losi clutch, or see if the Ofna clutch bell will work.....99.999% of racers either run the stock Losi clutch, or an Mip one. I prefer the stock clutch and tune it with diff balls of varying size(less aggressive clutch, hits sooner) or by trimming material off the shoes, or tightening the clutch spring tension(more aggressive clutch hits later).
Here are the part numbers,
The TeamLosi clutch parts you'll need are,
A9372 flywheel
A9369 nut/bearing tube
A9370 retainer clip
A9375 flywheel pins(for shoes)
A9362 clutch shoes and spring
A6931 bearings pr
A9381 18 clutch bell..................Jim

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea I got the link. Thanks. I'm going to look on ebay for a few days though just to see if I can get a better deal. You arn't running the big head are you? You don't have any problems with overheating do you? I'll try not to make a liar out of you. :p haha hope I can. I'm going to get a new engine and be out there again hopefully on the 7th of June. I was talking to the guy's son that has the RB. He said he has raced his dad's RB and he likes it a lot. He said it has a decent bottom end and a great top end. He said he likes the amount of power it puts out. Not too much. He said you can get them for about $150 too. He said he also liked the sirio because it was similar to the RB. I'm considering it but I think I'm still going for the Mugen if I can. Do you know anything about the Picco they have at Hobby Bench? Chris recomended it to me but I havn't heard alot about it. Pretty good at only $145.

MikeWz- Nope I'm not hanging up the losi just yet. haha Still my pride and joy.

[Anton-C]

hey guys, i am just introducing my self because i think i will be here a lot in the next few weeks;)
so i will be purchacing the xxx-nt rtr in a week or two, and basically i am getting an air filter, and a fail safe plus the basic start up tools. and i have a few questions
1) does anyone here use marvel mystery oil, i was going to get one bottle of after run oil and then fill it up once its out with marvel mystery, is this a good idea or should i use real after run oil.
2) should i use denatured alchol, i saw somewhere that it weakens the losi plastic, is this true? and is there something that is less expensive than nitro car cleaner i can use?
3) do you guys think that all the adjustments are good straight out of the box, by adjustments i mean slipper, carb diff, etc etc.

thanks for your help and i hope to learn more as i go on :D

oh and can someone suggest a good tool set that has most of the tools i will need and does not cost an arm and a leg;)

[dgrobe2112]

AntonC

Dont know much about the marvel mystery oil or alcohol, but, i use to clean my truck is Wal-Mart brand Carb cleaner and a toothbrush, its .78 cents per can.. i only use it on the truck, i do not use it in the motor or on electronics of course.. but its good to get all the stuck on dirt and in the tight places where the toothbrush dont reach.. as far as toolset..

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=LOSA99100

but on Ebay there is a set for like 20 bux or so.. you can get..

[MikeWz]

The marvel oil is really good. I've been using that after I ran out of the Prather oil. I haven't found much of a difference between the two, because I've never had a problem with either one

As for nitro cleaner, the Dnymaite Nitro Force works excellent. It has a really strong blast so it just by spraying it. your car is pretty much cleaned up. If it doesn't all come off you can use a paper towel or a tooth brush.

There's no need for a failsafe, as the car already comes with a throttle return spring. Don't waste the extra money.

As for adjustments, they are fine for bashing out of the box, you'll wind up changing stuff if you go to the track. Just be sure to follow all directions about adjusting the diff. You don't want to blow that this early on :rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

Anton-C- Ive heard lots of people use marvel mystery oil and like. When my after run eventually runs out I'll buy some MMO. Denatured alchohol weakened the old losi parts. They no longer make the plastic parts out of that kind of plastic so it is safe to use it. For a cleaner I really like Simple Green. I bought a spray bottle for about $3.50 and a refill bottle for about $7. I use about a 1/1 ratio of water to simple green. Works great and it dosn't stink. The stock adjustments is the best out of the box setup I have seen on a truck before. You should check you diff settings to make sure they are not too loose. Of all things that will make someone bad about there car is a stripped or melted diff. Integy sells a pretty inexpensive tool set. You can also get them off of ebay. Have fun with it.

[Anton-C]

thanks guys i will try to pick up some of this simple green stuff, it sounds like the safest alternitave to nitro cleaner, and when my after run oil runs out i will fill up the bottle with some MMO

Originally posted by MikeWz

There's no need for a failsafe, as the car already comes with a throttle return spring. Don't waste the extra money.



o know that it comes with a throttle return spring but i would rather pay 30 bucks extra and have that much extra protection, and who knows it may save my truck someday and if it dosent what can it hurt;)

thanks for your help guys ill let you know when i get my truck:D

[maxman142001]

anyone who is looking for an all aluminum suspenion set for their xxx-nt look at ebay. A guy is selling 2 rc trix kits for $180 buy it now!:eek:

[Anton-C]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
AntonC

as far as toolset..

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=LOSA99100

but on Ebay there is a set for like 20 bux or so.. you can get..

anything a little cheaper, to get a set i would be spending like 150 and i would rather spend about 50 for all of the tools i need, im not made of money, and the money tree died:D

[dkj-M3]

get the Dynamites, they come in sets of 3 for like $20 something.

[Anton-C]

sorry, but i dont know where to get them, i am still new at this and i dont know many sites to buy things other than tower ;)
thanks for your reply though:)

[dgrobe2112]

Anton, go to Ebay.. they have tool sets there.. type in xxxnt in the search and walah.. or type in xxx-nt and walah..

[Crashbot2001]

I use marvel mystery oil. It works fine, but does not really help the OS engines with surface rust. OS engines tend to get some surface rust inside, more so than others. I have been told Marvel Mystery AIR TOOL oil is the ticket to use. You should be able to get it at an aoto parts store. 5 bucks for a quart. Not available near me or I would be using it. I have a friend who picked some up for me, but have yet to get it from him.

[Crashbot2001]

For allen wrenches, get the ofna ones that come with the Hyper 7 Pro kit. Part number 10813 for metric (4 wrenches), part number 10814 for standard(4 wrenches) They are guaranteed for life not to round off, or BREAK. Most companies only warranty against rounding off.

[dkj-M3]

Anton-C- HEX DRIVER US SET-.050", 1/16" 3/32" (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=DYN2909) , get a 5/64 also to complete the set.

[Got Speed]

Anton-C- Like dgrobe2112 said. Take a look on ebay. If not then take a look at Trinity's tool set. You should be able to get it from www.horizonhobby.com I think they are $65 and come in a carrying pouch with 7 tools. 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, .05", 1/16", and 3/32".

Has anyone used, seen, or heard anything about the ofna/picco Turbo 7 Port engine? I am able to get it right now for $95 new.

[darkdemon]

hey well i started to run my adam drake when suddenly the truck keeps going even after the engine is at full brake and the trucks braKE rod is parralel to the shock tower wicch is like almost full brake and once i start it it keeps going and never stops at all unless i slow it down with plenty of space and kinda turn it then i have to spontaneously grab it and turn it off? how do i set it so that its neutral when not aplying brake or gas? and how do i set full brake? a few things to consider when answering is back tires are not glued and my trotle linkage doesnt have a spring to shrink while full brake is on

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, first things first.. i reccommend getting a throttle return spring for a rotary carb.. slide carb, i have a small rubberband around my carb..

Next.. truck not started.. pull off air cleaner.. turn on receiver pack, and radio (set all trims back to 0, or center.. or whatever..).. see if you have a 1mm opening inside carb.. i am betting you dont.. so..

so what you wanna do is loosen the servo horn off the throttle servo.. take horn off, and reposition it so that the neutral position is with 1mm opening in carb.. kinda like you would do to center the servo on steering.. got it?? ok.. now with that done, make sure you tighten down the servo horn with the screw....

pull full throttle.. and your carb should open all the way, let off to neutral, and it should return to 1mm open..

hit brake.. and it should stay at 1mm open.. but you should not be able to turn the spur gear.. if you can.. readjust your brake by how the manual tells you..

Email me at dgrobe2112@netzero.com for pics and stuff or get me on AOL IM at dgrobe2112

[jswinkos]

get an Integy set. it's only 27.95 and it is the same as all the other titanium nitrade ones out there and it comes with every size a XXX-nt will need.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- RC Nitro dynoed the Ofna/Picco 7 port and it came out like this:

peak torque: 43 oz.-in. @ 30,000rpm
practical rpm range: 4,000 to 41,000
rpm@ peak horsepower: 30,000
max. power output: 1.29 bhp

Performance Test: We tested the engine in a Losi Triple-XNT with a losi header and a Novarossi 51602 pipe. The dyno tests had already taken care of break-in, so the engine was ready to go when we fired it up. WOW! It pulled very strongly from a standing start and in the middle of the rpm range. It didnt seem to care when we applied throttle; it just went-and stongly. Reckless throttle application almost always lifted the front wheels off the ground and occasinally flipped the truck. It requires more respect and a sensitive throttle finger than less powerful engines, but if too much power seems like just enough to you, this could be your engine.Here is the link to the dyno test of the Ofna/Picco (http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/article/op_turbo7.asp)
Here is the link to the dyno test on the Team Orion .12 (http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/article/wasp12.asp)

[Got Speed]

maxman142001- Thanks. I read through the review yesterday and today about 10 times trying to see what they used for a clutch nut on that picco. I know there is a clutch nut you can use because RCCA tested it in a XXXNT and Adam Drake runs Piccos in his. Do you know where to get the right clutch nut?

Thanks

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- why do you think the stock clutch nut will not work? I am goiung to ask Adam Drake and see what he is running.

leland

[cave]

any more of those 95.00 Ofna/ picoo motors GS?
cave:D

[Got Speed]

maxman142001- Because standard crankshafts are 7mm. All picco engines have a 6mm crankshaft. :( (why would anyone make something that everyone has to adapt their cars and trucks to) :confused: I emailed drake this morning and he though I was talking about there SG shaft. I just emailed him again though.

cave- There is one more that is ending(by the same person) in 2 days. It is at $41 right now. I noticed that the head on it is purple and not a silver. I emailed the guy that is selling them and found out that they arn't Ofna/Picco Turbo 7 Ports like he listed them as but they are the ROAR legal version. I'm still working on getting a new engine. How much did that guy(who's email address you gave me) sell his big head mugens for?

[mx416]

I have a picco in my XXXNT and you can use the stock clutch nut, you just have to use picco's little brass thing that goes inside the flywheel (sorry I forgot what it's called). That is included with the engine.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed- Thats crazy! Do you think is was a typo. in the mag.?
:confused:

Leland

[Got Speed]

mx416- They still work weven with the smaller crank diameter?

maxman142001- I don't know. It dosn't look like a typo. That is where I got my info from. RCN. Here is what it says in case you havn't read it: Crankshaft: The 7-port's crankshaft is similar to the ones on picco's competition 3-port engines. The crankshafts in all Picco small-block engiens have a 6mm output-shaft diameter-slightly narrower than the standard 7mm. Just be sure to confirm with the retailer that you have what you need to install the engine. Look at that things power curve lol. It is like a sharp peak. But it still has good power at it's low.

[rustlerman81]

Which is better, Traxxas Nitro Rustler or XXXNT

Im going to do a little of racing and a lot of bashing

Which one jumps better

[ultramindbrk]

Ok...This is a dumb newb question:
I have searched and searched these pages before I asked,and didn't find the answer I have been looking for...I have seen ya's chattin about rx hump packs or something? I have just been using 4 AA batteries and haven't been able to run for very long before they go dead on me..I am sick of paying for batteries..What battery packs fit the nt? An exact link to the exact battery would be sweet..
Now once I purchase one,how does it connect to the factory plugs on the nt? Especially if you wanted to charge it with an ac/dc charger like a superbrain or something..
I am clueless..

Also,what about batteries in the radio.What do you peeps do about those? Go to Wal-mart and buy a battery charger and rechargable batteries for it?
Thanks so much in advance...
Tim

[WheelNut]

Here's a good example of a receiver pack.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG17&P=7

You can get most packs with different connectors so you'll be able to get one that will fit with your stock connectors.

you can see the different kinds of connectors and some more info here.

http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatt.htm

[ultramindbrk]

That trinity pack is only a 4.8..If I can afford it,shouldn't I go with a 6 v?

[cave]

Got Speed At last I checked He was selling them for around 141.00 That was with shipping. I heard Getsidways say that this guy raised the price. You can e mail him and ask. he told me he had alot of em brand new in a box. I paid 160 sumthing for mine if my memory serves me right. sorry bout the spelling he he. i dint know how quick you want one but but tony just got one witha rotary carb. he may be able to give me a better quote.

rustlerman81
your joking right? J/K? If your going to bash stick with the rustler. They go real fast into curbs:D Now If your gunna race. "I'm alittle partial" Get a losi:rolleyes:

ultramindbrk
I got a Orion 1150 Ni hydride rechargeable. Trinity makes one too. They make 1100 also. They come 2 atop 3
Tower hobbies has the Sanyo type for the radio Tx. Sorry I dont have the links for ya. I may be racing today so I'm kinda in a rush lol. If nobody else gives you a link I'' look for one to help ya out. Got Speed may have a link.
cave

[ultramindbrk]

I think I got it..But I am still clueless on how the hump packs connect to the charger? Do you change the plug on your charger also?

[MikeWz]

Rustlerman-Lol, that's not even a question bro. The XXX-NT OWNS the rustler. For bashing the rustler will probably hold up a bit better, but won't be able to keep up with much other than the Duratrax cars at the track (lol, duratrax). The XXX-NT flys much more level than the rusty, at least the Pro.15 rusty. You just point and shoot the X-NT and it flys perfect. Only every now and than will you need to drive it in there air. It's an excellent truck

Cave-We're all a little partial and that's why we're all in the same forum

[cave]

I bought a servo extention pig tail cut it in half and ((Walah)) Recharger wire.lol. I also replaced the switch so I didnt have to cut the plug case. The one I got alows me to chrge the battery on the truck without removing it.
cave

[cave]

I know Mike but you never know if they know that.lol
cave. Hows the weather in NY state? its 112° right now I love it. Think I'll blow off the race and take a dip in my pool.
cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-Lol. The weather sucks the big one over here. It's been raining the last few days, and it's been pretty chilly. I think if I jumped in my pool right now my blood would congeal. And I've had no R/C for about 3 weeks now. AHHHHHHHHHH. :rolleyes: Stupid starter box, and Ofna never e-mailed me back. That's a
-10 for customer service right there. 3 weeks and no reply. Kinda sad. Enjoy that pool!

[thedominator]

Originally posted by cave
I bought a servo extention pig tail cut it in half and ((Walah)) Recharger wire.lol. I also replaced the switch so I didnt have to cut the plug case. The one I got alows me to chrge the battery on the truck without removing it.
cave

Thats what I did and it works great.
The rustler is only fast in a straight line.

[maxman142001]

gotspeed-lol that power curve is insane. Are you concidering any other engines? Something that dosnt require some obscure clutch nut. :) Man this weather sucks, you go outside for 2 min. and then I am drenched in sweat.:mad:

ps-I bought the new issue of Car Action and Ryan Maifeilds B4 was in the Under The Hood section!

leland

[winning edge designs]

Ofna tools...I had two of my Ofna allen tools break off the tips, then I showed them to the Ofna Guru, Paul Coleman.....He laughed and said well look at those guns on ya'.....Funny coming from a guy that big, but I got the impression I was out of luck. So I asked the local Shops if they could send them in, they laughed and said, Ofna will send them back if they are broken, no warranty.......I threw the entire set in the trash.

I've been trying to get the TeamLosi ones, but no luck there either......The Thorp style wrenches are the best for the money so far, but the yellow clear handles have to grow on you.

Cave, 112?!....I thought it was Hot here in central Florida, it's been 90ish and my pool has been 82-84 degrees.......Nothing like it after a day at work!.....:), Jim

[Got Speed]

rustlerman81- LOL the XXX-NT is far superiour if you want to race. For bashing the rustler may be a better choice but again it is still opinion.

ultramindbrk- Orion's and trinity's battery say in the title whether they fit the NT or not. I got mine off of ebay for $12 with the connector. You can either disconect it from the switch and charge it or you can use the charge plug if you switch has one. On ebay search for NiMh reciever pack under Radio Control-Cars and you should find alot of different ones to chose from.

cave- Ok. I've emailed him about it. If the track gets them in within a few days I'll probably get it from them since they arn't much more and Scott said he could make me a good deal on it. Wow you like this weather. lol I like early spring here. :) The regionals are ROAR sanctioned right?

MikeWz- I have never had good luck with there customer service either. I usually get a reply from losi within 3 hours. I have never recieved a reply from ofna.

maxman142001- I guess the stock clutch nut does fit. I wouldn't think it would but I'll give it a try if I can get a good deal. Then I'll use my O.S. for ROAR races whenever I go to them. Yea I saw his car in there. lol maybe when I get that good I'll have my car in there. hehe yea, right. :p

[Racin Rev]

What do y'all think about os plugs? I have a pair of A5's that I have been running in my CV-r this season and part of last. when I hook them to a glow starter there was a full turn of the wire that doesn't glow. Both are like this and i am sure that one of these has been this way since new. The only performance problem I have noticed with this is that it is hard to start. once started it seems to work fine. Any thoughts? The old fox plug that i have as a back up glows brightly nearly to the end.

I have also been trying to get MC59 plugs and have been told that these have become as rare as hens teeth. anybody know what is going on with that?

[Got Speed]

Racin Rev- I like the MC-59s more than the O.S.s because they are just as good but I havn't bought as many of them that were duds(went out after 5mins). Of the O.S. plugs my favorite for the CV-R is the #8. It just seems to start easier, idle better, and is easier to tune(the last time I used a #8 is lasted for 8 months). I have had several plugs that didn't light up one of the coils. I didn't notice much of a difference when running them.

[MikeWz]

Try running some novarossi plugs. The OS #8's a pretty good, but I found the nova racing plugs work a little better. They are a bit on the expensive side, but you get what you pay for.

Anybody other than Ofna make a good starter box? I think I'm done buying ofna stuff now. That's pretty pathetic that they do that kinda thing.

[cave]

MikeWz
I love My Ofna box. I have no problems.
I wired it myself. I guess I'm lucky. I got the monster box or pink box.

[ultramindbrk]

So,I noticed,and this is just my opinion,but I think HPI makes the coolest looking rc's man..They rock..The rs4 mt is just killer looking,the rs4 ,with it's purple goods, is gnarly..
I would love to hop my xxx-nt up with some purple upgrades...Anyone know where I could get em? If not,what all colors do they make for hop ups for the xxx-nt?

[dgrobe2112]

Ultramind

www.rctrix.com has some silver aluminum hop ups for the XXXNT and i think they also have blue as well..

[MikeWz]

There is some blue stuff on www.teamtrinity.com
You could always get some of the red Matt Francis stuff, and at www.racinghardcore.com you can get a blue, silver, green, or purple chassis for your truck.