Team Losi XXXNT forum v6.0

[dkj-M3]

Manuals: Adam Drake XXX NT (http://www.teamlosi.com/Manuals/XXXntAD_index.htm)

GT bodies don't fit. Most of the guys I race with at CRCRC (http://www.crcrc.com/) have been runing the Muegens for about 2 years now.

[Saboteur]

Well it was fun wrenchin on the sport nt. Did scatter the thrust bearings from the right rear wheel all over the rug but retrieved them. Just cant seem to make out whats that little buzzing noise. Its not really grinding and nothing is binding or anything. The last time I rebuilt it, I lost one thrust bearing..and by the time I was done rebuilding the truck again, found it sitting by my foot, which I scanned heavily in that area for more than 3 times. :( I may try the thrust bearings from my Neo's Centax clutch as they stay inplace in a washer and dont fall out. Its worth a shot. Also does any of your losi's stop on a dime or rather slow to a stop? I dont recall testing the losi's brake before since the batteries in the RX pack were kinda going and were replaced with new ones. I have to get use to it as my nitro sedan's wheels would lock up in an instant, which I probably dont think is good at all.

[Got Speed]

Sorry Double Post. :rolleyes: :confused:

[Got Speed]

cave- I really hope so. I have to wait on my new fuel tank though. Hopefully it will come before saturday. If so, I'll be there. I still have quite a few things I need to replace. I can definatly notice it driving worse.

jasonrcfreak- Nice. LMK how it works for you. I was thinking about getting one before I got my picco.

Saboteur- The brakes can be a bit tricky to get working right. At least they have been for me. You just need to play with the linkages untill you get it right. For the surface you run on the wheels shouldn't lock up but should brake hard enough so that they almost slide. Did you completely take your diff apart? It could be the rings or balls. You said it only does it when one wheel turns more than the other so I doubt it is the gear. When replacing those thrust bearings be very careful to make sure they are the exact same size as the losi thrust balls.

[MikeWz]

Shady-Bro I wasn't bustin your balls at all. Like Cave and GS said it's a joke. Read back a page or two and you'll see what we're talking about. Sorry you took that the wrong way

Cave-Bro, maybe we shoud just stop recommending engines at all. Lol. That way we can keep our advantage, and also keep people on these boards. :D

Gt bodies dont' fit on the XXX-NT. The area the mounts are located in won't let the body fit over the shock towers. Won't work.

[Saboteur]

GS- The rings could me it. Maybe I put too much grease on them as well as the diff, which is metal btw. The balls are fine so I'll tape it apart and take off some of the grease. Maybe that will make it stop a bit quicker.

[cave]

Got Speed Hope you make it out. I havnt gone racing since that last time we all raced...

MikeWz I think your right. Hope Shady comes back. I'm alot worse in person when It comes to Ribben someone. I got to know ya first. That means I'm comfortable with ya.

cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-Lol, hopefully when I get out there you won't rip on me too bad. If you think you gotta add weight to take GS in the boat,psh, well if you take me out there I hope you've got a full rack of free weights or something. I'm a little guy myself, tough, but little :D

SHADYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY COME BACKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

[Saboteur]

Hey all. Sun came out this afternoon. Gonna try to get a quick run outside. BTW in the right rear wheel where you have em small thrust bearings althought it says 8, it still has space for more, so stealing one from my centax clutch fits it. Also incase I lose one or two and cant find em, Ill have more on stanby and wont have to get on my hands and knees to look for em. :D I had the diff setup right at one time, as the outdrives did lock up but now it still glides a little but. Not as much off throttle though. A friend of mine did mention that 2wd trucks do take a bit longer to stop. If this is so, then I can finally stop worrying about having the wheels locking up, as something tells me it shouldnt.

[dkj-M3]

if your racing on a track, you don't want the brakes to lock-up. It only makes you break traction & slows your trucks momentum(sp?) down.

[one_mean_rc10gt]

Whats the best way or product to clean up the nitro mess on the xxx-nt?

Thanks

[dkj-M3]

a strong air compressor & toothbrush is all you need.

[cave]

one_mean_rc10gt
I'm alittle lazy so I buy the Trinity or HPI Nitro cleaner spray. Its costly and seams to only last a few minutes at full blast. It does however take the goop right off. I use the Nitro cleaner mostly on and around my motor and around the receiver and servos. I wipe the rest with Got Speed or TJraceings Simple Green. :D Thanks guys:D he he he he he

dkj-M3
2 years? How do you all like the Mugen? How long did yours last. Has there been any improvements on the new ones? Guys around here say that the newer one are better suited for OffRoad. You have any light to shine on dis?
I really like mine:eek::D I'll shut up now...

cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-What body are you running on there right now? I have the stock Losi body, but I hear the Mugen and the Drake body give a little more down force. Any extra downfroce is welcome, especially with that ever powerful MT12 :D

One_Mean-I use Dynamite Nitro Blast. It's about $5 a can(I get it for about $ cause I buy an entire case) and cleans the entire car after a race twice, so it lasts a pretty decent amount of time for a nitro cleaner, and works really good too!

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Check to make sure that the rings are grooved or notched. Then play with the linkages to fix your brakes. If that dosn't fix it then you may want to make sure your calipers arn't broken and that your brake disk is in good condition.

cave- I really hope I can. I have to practice alot with that new engine. Hopefully my parts will come today. If not, hopefully they will come before I have to leave tommorow. I've got about a 1/4 gallon of sidewinder left if you want it. I was trying to run alot of it out in my T-Maxx before I sent it in because I don't want to use that fuel on the new engine. Has tony been going out there lately?

one_mean_rc10gt- I really like using simple green and an air compressor. But since I don't have an air compressor I usually use a toothebrush, rag, and simple green. I use denatured alchohol when something is stuck on to metal really hard. Nitro blast works great but since I'm a bit tight on money I can get about 5 gallons of simple green for the price of nitro blast. I usually have a can around though for bearings, gears, and the clutch.

MikeWz- You're coming out to AZ? LOL a whole rack of weights. hehe

[Saboteur]

GS- The washers arent grooved, but now when I turn the wheel or the car goes into a turn I dont hear that buzzing noise anymore. The last thing I did was take off most of the oil I put on the diff, and just added a little oil where the thrust bearings are in the outdrive. Its still smooth and runs quiet. Now I just need to go out and drive it. :) For the braking..the disc doesnt move and the gears lock up but the car can still move, however DOES slow down then to a hault. Just that the faster its goin the longer it takes to stop, which I assume is fine. :confused:

[Got Speed]

Saboteur

- There was probably something in it then that when you took it apart it fell it out. Oh ok, you don't have a problem then with them not breaking hard enough. You should loosen your brake a little so that on the surface you run on the tires don't lock up but almost lock. Since these trucks are 2wd braking takes a lot longer. The 1/8 buggy I had and tmaxxs could stop on a dime due to the front wheels being able to brake too.

[Saboteur]

Yeah. Thnx for the help guys. :) :D

[MikeWz]

GS-Yeah. Eventually. I've already been in contact with Cave about it. He was telling me that you're a small guy so he has to weigh you down to take you out on the boat. Lol. I only with 125 so I'm pretty small myself. I thought I was going to get out there this summer but I'm not gonna make it. The girl in Switzerland had told me I couldn't go this summer, as they were having some problems, but she just told me about a week ago I would be able to come out, so I'm hitting up die Schweitz from the 12th to the 22nd, than I've got a little while before college. ONe of these days I'll get out there.

[cave]

MikeWz dont get me started:D I run both Bodies and I havnt noticed any difference. I like the RTR body cause its cheaper to buy and they have them in stock at the LHS. Gone through 3 of em. The drake body I think its the Fury right? I like the look . Sleeker looks faster...

Got Speed Heck yea I'll take it off your hands... I like that Trinity but hard as Heck to find it local for a fair price..

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- I got my parts in the mail today. Hopefully I'll see you there.

Saboteur- No problem. Hope it works out well for you.

MikeWz- LOL yeah, I'm only 95. hehe

[cave]

GS 95lbs? After those wings? lol. Hope I see ya there. Tony had some bad luck I guess he and frenchee DNF all but the main. Rough night for them. Ya see what happens when I'm not there to race with them.lol. I'm the Motivator. :D
see ya

MikeWz thats way cool you can hook up with her. Have a safe trip bro. Tell everyone your Canadian. They seem to have less Hassles abroad these days.

95lbs ?

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- LOL yep 95. I hope to be out there about 2:30. Did francewa get his mugen running right?

[cave]

Got Speed We are trying to make it by 3:30. See ya there. Dont know if frenchee got the Mugen In. Tony mention supthing about that. Hey I'm going to IM you with his Phone # He has to talk to you about his servo. When you get ooff line call him Please.

cave

[pooldoc101]

Mike Wz- was it you who has the carbon fiber chassis? If so, how is it working out for you? Pooldoc

[MikeWz]

Cave-Lol, yeah. They actually may move back within a year or two (as opposed to the 10year plan her Dad origonall had) becaues the people there can be real jerks. Don't get me wrong, every place has it's nice people, but Eurpeans seem to have this thing against Americans. I wouldn't say I "hooked up" with her just yet. She just started a post grad journalism class, and she said she's not ready yet. She's gotta find out what she wants in life, needs to get a more time/ money, and a little less stress. After moving to a new country, learning a new language, dealing with these jerks and taking a post grad class, I honestly can't blame her.

GS-Lol. 95 pounds, At 15 I guess that's not too bad. I'm only 17 myself, but I WILL GET BUFF. Lol :D

Pooldoc-Yeah I have the CF chassis. I love it, however you will notice a little less traction on the start, as it's much lighter. I simply went to a softer compound tire. I used to run silvers on my track and I now run red, so it worked out. I highly recommend it! Make sure you have the Drake bones though, that'll help a lot.

[Saboteur]

Just fixed the p/s on the mach .15. Prob when the p/s recoild the fuel tubing ripped...so the handle dangles close or under the exhaust pipe and I cant reach it with the body on. Simple took the metal piece outta the p/s handle, undid the knot, took out the rubber pieces and replaced it with airline tubing for a airpump (much stronger and stiffer), inserted it in the two plastic pieces, tied the knot back on that metal piece and voila! Much better, as I can reach the handle easier. :) Gonna wait l8er on in the day if its nice to head out for a good romping but first, a warm up with a tank of the Megatech fuel.

[pooldoc101]

Mike Wz- did that chassis affect the cooling of the motor or does it conduct heat like the aluminum chassis? I don't have drake bones, I run aluminum MIP's. I gonna get one of those chassis and a Native racing top plate, looks like it will make the truck a lot easier to clean. Pooldoc

[jasonrcfreak]

Well, the diff in my truck went out on my again. Everything seemed to be running good. Then, about 3 minutes into the first heat race, it broke. I haven't taken it apart to see what happened yet, but I'm about ready to throw the damn car in the nearest ocean!! I just rebuilt it about 10-12 races ago with new rings, new carbide diff balls, etc etc. And now this. :( I'm thinking about trying the Robinson metal spur gear in it but it's $20 for the stinking thing. I'm just so frustrated right now. I'm getting a freakin GT!!! I'm not new to this....I don't know what going on.

[Saboteur]

I got a metal ball diff in mine-no extra charge. :D Anyway got the pics of my new ride and will post em as soon as I return home. :)

[MikeWz]

Pooldoc-I didn't notice an engine temp difference, still running about 225. You should get those dogbones. I had the shiney's in mine, and noticed a big difference going to the drakes. Where can I get one of thsoe native racing guys?

Jason-was the diff tightened properly? Or was it loose/overtightned? You may have greased the diff too much when putting it together. That seems to be a big problem. You want to put A LOT of grease on the thrust bearings, but not too much on the other parts. This will cause it to slip which will cause extra wear. Once you get the hang of the monster diff, it's awsome.

[cave]

jasonrcfreak
I feel your pain I too felt this way when I was searching for that sweat spot on the slipper. This is the toughest adjustment on these trucks. This a high performance race truck. As with any other Hi po deal it needs the right treatment to be consistant.

I just rebuilt it about 10-12 races ago with new rings, new carbide diff balls, etc etc.

Thats not bad if you got a Race motor like a Wasp, Picco, Rb, Novarossi, Or Mugen.Now I know you want to sacrifice this truck to the bumbaclot gods of racing BUT you just have to find the sweatspot on your slipper. If your raceing you know that wheelies are a sure sign that your slipper is to tight. If you give it full throttle and it seems to scream and you hardly move, then you need to tighten it up. I tighten or loosen in 1/32 increments. or tinye adjustments till I can take off with power yet have just enough to not destroy the Diff. After you rebuild it E mail me if you want help adjusting the spur tightness. Be patient tho. I sometimes work long hours but I always check my email twicw sometime 3 times a day. you can email me from this forum. Ive been there ask Got speed how many diffs Ive gone through before I found the SWEAT SPOT. lol.

MikeWz Thats Awsone bro.
How soon they forget. We should of let europe fall to the Nazis. Them people seem to have forgotten how many American gave thier live so they could be free to piss on our flag. Next time there on thier own. There will be a next time. Its human nature to repeat what has been forgotten. :mad: There all pussies that wine and bitch till they need our help then its kiss up time. I hope you girl comes back home to finish her °.
Oh yea mike I got 1st last night. Ws only the B main but My Mugen was running So good:D

Got Speed
Team low dough did good last night. huh. If you go next Sat let me know. I know it was a costly night but if you decide you can make it. Let us know...That big canapee U got is Awsome :D

cave

[Got Speed]

jasonrcfreak- The most important thing is to make sure your slipper always slips before your diff. If it slips mostly but the diff only slips a little then it is just too loose. You should be able to "jerk" one wheel forward while holding the spur and other wheel. When you do the slipper should be the only thing that slips. I do it this way so that if I land several jumps on power it won't start slipping. That is what the slipper is for. I have my truck pretty low, probably more than I should so I don't usually wheelie except for when I hit a really high traction spot on the track. It looks cool but if you race it can really mess you up.

cave- Team low dough. LOL I didn't get that last night. haha. Yea, I seriously need a job but it is so hard to get one right now. At the end of the night I figured I had to buy about 6 or 7 parts. :eek: I think I got lucky on my first pivot block. It didn't break untill I hit it really hard into the wall. The next broke after just a tap from the side of a 1/10 buggy. Ive got the aluminum now so I don't have to worry any more. Since I got that new fuel tank my engine was running great. In the first race that one servo only opened the throttle about 1/2 the way. After I got that fixed it was ballistic. I was ran between 195-235 all night. I burn up tires so much faster now though. :( I'm pretty sure I'm not going to be there next week. But I should the week after. The
10 X 10ft canopy was actually $60 cheaper than the smaller one. :p I can't believe that I didn't realize that my tranny case was messed up all night causing me most of my problems. I thought my truck was pulling to one side too but I could only notice on power or on the brakes. I found my front right toe was like -4 :eek: I must have forgot to readjust it after I put a new ball cup on during the week :rolleyes: I hope to see you out there the week after next. Hopefully I'll have one of those TO lap counters. I really need to work on setup. I am still using my old setup. It works but not as good as it could.

[Got Speed]

Sorry I forgot a few things:

MikeWz- Yea, I'm a bit small since I will be 16 on the 30th. I've been growing though lately. lol :p

cave- Talking about myself too much up there. :rolleyes: You really did great out there yesterday too. You were pretty fast especially in the main. Francewa was laughing so hard watching you towards the end though because from watching your car he thought you were nervous because your truck was twitching all over. hehe I get the same way though. That was a pretty fun race last night though. I might try to race my maxx next time I'm there.

[cave]

GS I like My set up. It slides more and doesnt have that turn on a dime reaction but It works for me. I still cant believe you got 3rd last night in the main. Your driving is what did it. Man even with your tranny holding on by 1 screw. LOL. Its gunna be scary next week when your truck is tight... Team low dough is what tony came up with. we all where broke this weekend. all except frenchee. He bought that other drake. Now he has a back up truck.

see ya in two weeks.

cave

[cave]

twitching. Heck he was hoping I would choke. LOLOLOLOL. I was running way to lean. He took a temp of my motor and says to me while Im getting ready for that horn to go off
Jimmy your temp is at 275°
He said this milaseconds before the horn sounded. I thought he was kidding. When I was heading down the straight I had my trigger pulled all the way and my truck hesitated! He wasnt kidding. I ran that race tapping my trigger. I blipped the throttle durring the whole deal. The track started to dry up. He' s funny. Thats the most comfortable I have ever raced. I was just having fun. I did hack Tony in that first turn.:D . I heard him, Awman you hacked me bro. That was fun :D :D :D
see ya

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- LOL, he is pretty funny. I was watching the race. I was wondering if there was a little hacking going on there. lol. That race was pretty fun despite all the things I broke. I seem to get caught up alot of the pipes instead of crashing off the jumps. I still seem to do alright I guess. Francewa offered to let my try his extra fantom pipe. I going to give it a try next to my AE and Losi pipe. I will probably have one of those lap counters by then so I can find a setup that works best for me. Mine seems to work pretty good and yours I think is exactly the same except your rear suspension is a little softer. See you then.

[MikeWz]

Cave-Lol, I know what you mean. IMO, we never should have given France back their country. We got it back for them, we either should have let the Germans have it, or kept it as a satelitte or something. I really hope we don't help any of them next time. Yeah I hope she comes back too :D
Congrats on first. Wether B main or A main, first is first. Congrats man!

GS-Lol, I know the feeling. You just go around looking up at everybody thinking "Damn, that guys jacked" :rolleyes:

[cave]

Hey MikeWz that was me hacking LOL.
I did only once to my nephew. It was really an accident to be honest. I slipped in the second turn ended up gettong T boned by him i just blipped the throttle and away I went wile everone else was tied up in that corner. That was funnnnnnnn :D
cave:p

[Saboteur]

Went to drive the losi today. At first the engine didnt start and I thought it was the needle settings, however I just blew into the airline a lil more and sure enough on the 2nd pop, the mach .15 started. Since the low speed needle moved in the direction of the handle, as if I were to adjust it to a richer setting, I thought there would be tuning problems. Boy was I wrong. It idled for quite a long time and only stopped due to airbubbles in the fuel line caused by vibrations. One thing I didnt like was after blowing in the exhaust tubing line, some fuel actually rose up in there....though it never cause a problem with performance.

The main problem is that even after the differential was tight and could actually still screw down a little more, it was still slipping. The car would simple move a bit before stopping. After 30mins-1hr of time out there I headed back inside. I wasnt dissappointed that the NT didnt run, however it idled nicely and adjusted very well to the Megatech fuel. Now, its time to work on that diff. Maybe I should put back that spring in the left side and see what happens. It was taken out because the black piece with the nut didnt seem to fully screw onto the end of the adjuster needle. Maybe I'll try it again. I still like the losi! :D :)

[MikeWz]

Cave-Hacking can be lots of fun though, especially if you're getting back at somebody! :D Some guy at the last race t-boned me, so during the next heat I just trailed him till the last lap, tapped his back tires and into the wall he went. MWA HA HA HA. That's what you get woman! Lol

[Shady]

its always fun to go up on a guy and just tap him and watch him run so hard he keeps wrecking till he breaks tring to get back at you.....lol, after a long weekend at a big electric race i am ready to get back into gas, nothing more fitting than the RC Pro race at the Tiltyard this weekend :cool:

[jasonrcfreak]

I usually tighten my diff until, when I hold the left rear wheel down and the spur gear, if I try to turn the right rear wheel, it will turn a little but doesn't go very far.....you don't hear a clicking noise. Or, before I put the diff back in the truck, I hold the outdrives and try to turn the diff gear and it won't turn, but not real tight.

As for the slipper, I usually start at all the way in, and then back out 5 turns, which I think is the setting in the manual.

It seemed to be running ok before I had the problems. I have a tendency to be on the throttle when I land jumps, which is probably hard on the diffs. Maybe I had the slipper too tight. Hell, I don't know.

Has anyone tried the Robinson metal diff gear?? I also bent a rear hingepin. Are the supposed to be any "e" or "c" clips holding the rear hingepins?

J

[ultramindbrk]

What kit are you guys using to rebuild your diffs? I mangled something in my tranny..I was adjusting the slipper and diff adjustments,and I think I had em adjusted improperely..I searched and searched the threads and couldn't find anything about it..I found one post about using the "monster" diff? Anyhow,if I was going to rebuild my diff,someone point me to the right direction please...Thanks ahead of time!!! :)

[cave]

SHADY WELCOME BACK BRO!!!

jasonrcfreak dont trust the stock settings. Its a baseline only. I adjust mine starting out loose then tightening till the slipper barely slips. then I test it on the track. Therees where I doe the final adjustment. Tiny Tiny adjustments. Once you find the sweat spot It will last a real long time. Good luck jasonrcfreak Your lucky you already have nitro experiance... Thats half the battle.

I only hack those who hack me like my nephew and Francois. It was fun between us but when I get hacked buy the fast guys I get alittle teed. They dont need to pull that stuff. I used to move over but now I race too. Look out here comes cave lol...
This is so dang much fun.
GS 2 weeks huh? later bro

There is alot of Diff rebuilding stuff in Vol. 5 Got Speed do you got that info copied. He (GS) had a great step by step instructional. Maybe he has it saived. Hey you are getting taller GS.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea, 2 weeks. :( If I have my maxx engine I'm hoping to race both. Tony says you guys have a hack fest on thursdays. lol Have you been having the T-Maxxs in with the trucks on thurs.? No, I don't have the diff info saved. I ought to though. cut and paste. :p

Saboteur and ultramindbrk- I will try and find my post several months ago about adjusting the diff and repost it this evening.

Shady- Welcome back

jasonrcfreak- Landing on power is harder on the diff but don't worry about it unless you don't have it adjusted right. I wouldn't get the steel gear for several reasons. It is heavy. It is uneeded. If you use a steel gear just to get around stripping plasic ones you will have a truck that dosn't perform to it's full potential(due to weight and the diff not being adjusted right), and you will melt the idler gear instead of the diff. The solution is too make sure it is adjusted right. Once it is adjusted right and you are sure the two most common things that cause a diff to loosen itself is a worn thrust assembly and a worn diff nut. I will try and find my post before about it and repost it here this evening.

WED- Are you still around? I havn't seen you post for awhile. :confused:

As far as hacking goes. I don't think this could be considered a hack but I love the pressure pass when I have the opportunity. Just sit right on someones tail acting like you are about to pass. Usually they will get nervous and crash after about 15 seconds and then as long as you arn't too close when they crash you gain the position with ease. lol :p

[cave]

Got Speed you said you wouldnt tell anyone about that pass on me...LOL... It was more like 24 seconds heheheheheh.
Funny , Tony was running that metal gear in the diff and he's not as fast as he was with his Mugen. Hope he rebuilds it right without that Metal gear. Sounds like he has a turbo in there from the gears meshing.

cave

[Saboteur]

I think I may have put grease on the washers that should go onto the face of the outdrive. Grrrrrr. See what happens when ya read to fast? :( Gonna degrease them, replace that spring and see what happens. I'll be sure to have a look at that post GS :). L8er all.

[Got Speed]

I'm pretty tired tonight I don't want to search through 150 pages. I'll type one up again in the morning. :o

[Saboteur]

LOL. Its ok man. I'm still here rebuilding this diff. Yeah its a pisser, but thats the only problem right now :)

[Saboteur]

WOOOOOOOOOO!. After fiddling around with that diff nut carrier, I accidentaly widened the part the nut goes in. No problem. Used a little krayzieglue, and in the process of gluing it in, I glued my thumb to my index finger. Now that I replace the spring and washer and installed the nut, the feeling it had was different as it easily threaded onto the adjuster screw's end! The diff doesnt slip anymore!!!! With this done, I have a SURE feeling the trucks braking will be A LOT better! Its 2:48am now..so gonna hurry up and rebuild the rest of the truck. This was the only problem I've had now and its finally fixed! :D x100,000,000:cool:

[MikeWz]

Awsome. You sound like me. I used to stay up till about 4-5AM building my RFX, than when I was done with that, I would take apart my XXX-NT, nothing needed to be fixed, I would just take it apart for fun. I'm thinking about getting the Native racing center brace so I can take it apart faster :D

[mx416]

On Drake's standard setup, what does it mean by drilled for the rear shock pistons. I want to get my truck setup because I finally get to race it this weekend. I'm usually racing motocross on the weekends but I had major engine failure so I get to race RC this weekend!!!

[MikeWz]

I'm pretty sure you're talking about drilling the pistons. There are holes drilled into the piston, but they don't tell you what size etc. I wouldn't worry too much about that. You won't notice much of a difference unless you can run as fast as drake. When shock tuning worry more about shock length(make sure both in back are the same length, and both up front are the same length), make sure they both compress at the same rate, and fool around with different weight oils and springs.

GS-Did you send that Compaq kid his temp guage? If not I suggest you do (not trying to be a jerk here or anything) because he's talking smack about you in the nitro forum.

[Saboteur]

LOL Mike. Thought the car would stop quicker but I guess I was wrong. Maybe I should keep tightening the diff a bit more. However in the magazine it says tightenen it till the diff doesnt move when you hold the outdrives and even with holding em with a shirt, the diff didnt move. Now when braking the car still seems to roll a bit. GRRR. I thought it would atleast lock up a bit or something but oh well. :o

[MikeWz]

It's okay, you don't really want the car to lock up when you hit the brakes. It should just get the point of locking up, than stop. You can keep much better control of the car when the wheels aren't locked up

[Saboteur]

Yeah, I got it. Tightened the diff a bit more. Stops quicker. I'll head out again today. W00T :D

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Ok, good. Just make sure for the first couple of runs that it stays tight to make sure. Then I usually check every day I run it to make sure nothing happened to the nut or thrust that would cause it to loosen itself. I havn't ever had one loosen except once and that was because the thrust assemble was getting old and the rings were seriously grooved. lol when I first got my drake I was up till about 3am building and adjusting it.

mx416- It means that he drilled out his shock piston holes larger for softer damping. Like MikeWz said don't worry about it. You can also change it by chaning the shock oil or whatever you need.

MikeWz- Thanks for letting me know. I didn't even see that. Yea, I sent it out on the 18. I asked him yesterday or the day before that if he got it. No response. I havn't heard anything from him so I though everything was fine. I got delivery conformation just incase something like this happened. Thanks

[rhcsavage21]

i plan on geting my xxx-nt some time next week. i need to know anything that i need to know. i plan on puting my .12 cv-rx in it to.

[Saboteur]

GRRR. I thought I had it going today. The car did move a bit as well as the braking improved, however still some slipping occured. The diffnut carrier did come off the threaded part of the screw. Back to the ol drawing board... :(

[cave]

Mike who is talkin smack about GS?
Compaq kid Is this him? Mail takes time. Pony express takes time from here.lol.
He got his deal. He even says thanks to ya GS.



If I could only make a better diff for this Losi I'de be rich:p Hopefully mine will last.

cave

[Shady]

go to Niftech (http://www.niftech.com/) they make the best stuff for losi diffs, especially the pinned rings and outdrives

[cave]

Thats a cool site. I like those Out Drives. Thats what I like about this forum. Lots of Information. Cool sites and the people.

cave

[one_mean_rc10gt]

I have a .15 picco in my xxx-nt that i just picked up. It seems to be spitting some fuel out the pipe. How much it normal?

[K9pusher]

What's up ya'll? I just purchased a XXX-NT RTR a couple of days ago. Loving it so far. Just wanted to say "what's up?" Any one have any comments or suggestions for mods or some tips and tricks.

Later

'pusher

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
i plan on geting my xxx-nt some time next week. i need to know anything that i need to know. i plan on puting my .12 cv-rx in it to. :(

[poopie]

i have a Picco .15 RE and it spits out a ton of fuel. It runs great and makes a ton of power so I'm not concerned.

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- Make sure that the diff is adjusted right. I find that there is nothing at all wrong with Losi diff if it is adjusted right. Just like most engines they won't work right if they arn't adjusted(tuned) right. I could offer some more help but it depends on if you are racing or not.

K9pusher- The same thing I told rhsavage21 above because it seems to be the biggest problem for inexperienced and even some experienced people who buy the NT. Nothing to worry about though as long as you are careful and do it right. I could offer some more help but it depends on if you are racing or not.

Saboteur- You said you widened part of it trying to make it go in. I would go to your LHS and buy a new one. See if they have the new style losi diff nut which is a big improvment over the old one IMO. It is one peice instead of the nut and plastic part seperat plus the threaded part goes all the way through the plastic part so there is much more nut for the bolt to hold onto and will take a lot more to strip. Tighter isn't better in this situation. You have to find the medium. What I do is tighten it so that I can hold the spur and one wheel while I sort of jerk(but not too hard) the other wheel forward. If the diff slips at all it is too loose. I tighten it in small increments untill it won't slip when I do that. Then I usually tighten it 1/32-1/16 of a turn more. It works perfect for me. I have really smooth diff action that turns easily and dosn't slip at all. If it has been run a while since the thrust assembly has been replaced then do this at the same time. This can be done without taking it out of the tranny. If you get one of these at your LHS as well ask for the new one which is also an improvement over the old one. With the old one you would have to put a lot of thrust grease on the thrust rings to hold the balls in while you carefully slipped it in the outdrive trying not to loose all the balls and make the rings slide apart. The new one has a little plastic disc that the balls pop into(like on the diff gear except) so you don't have to worry about loosing them. All you do is put some thrust grease on the balls put the two rings on the top and bottom then slide it into the outdrive with an allen wrench. When you are done with this I suggest getting some 1/4" foam(high density foam that is used for protecting airplane recievers works best but any will work) and cutting it into a circle to push into each outdrive. This keeps out a lot of dirt that would normally get into the diff and make it wear out faster and cause drag in the tranny. Unless your diff is really loose braking shouldn't be affected by it.

cave- Yea, the guy posted behind my back without letting me know anything was wrong. In the end he made himself look stupid because he got it the same day he posted. Only 7 days after he paid and 6 days since I sent it. I saw his appology(sp?) this morning though. :) Are you still having problems with your diff?

Shady- They sure have some expensive stuff though don't they. I thought about trying some of their stuff next time I need a rebuild just to see if there is much of a difference. I am mostly intrested in the outdrives.

poopie- If it spits raw fuel the you are probably running to rich. If not then you should try a new fuel tank. I had one of the old tanks and it never caused a problem untill a few weeks ago so I bought the new style tank and it fixed the problem. I only had this problem when it wasn't running.

[Saboteur]

Thnx for the info GS. I'll be sure to head out to my LHS 2morrow for those items. :) About how much would you say they cost?

[cave]

GS my diff is OK its Tonies that has the metal gear.LOL. Seams like his truck is slower now. I dont know if he has rebuilt it. He saw that E bay site you told him about but he wants a diff already built not in parts. LOL. Mines AOK. now it'll fall apart on Saturday night... Thats cool the guy posted a thank you.

poopie
Whats your temp at. If its running at around 200° to 210° you may be able to lean it out a bit. If you dont have a temp gun you can pick up a gauge at radio shack for around 40 bucks W/ Battery thats 50.00 less than a temp gun. and there purdy accurate. GS is right about the old style tank. The new one has the pressure fitting built into the filler cap the old one seam to want to flood the motor. I lost so much fuel when I ran that fuel tank. no probs since the switch.

cave

[Saboteur]

BTW GS I have a metal disk that keeps the thrust bearings in..just off the TNT's centax however its too large for the outdrives.. :(

[Saboteur]

I've noticed that nut holder that needs to have the little pieces sticking out into the open slits of the outdrive. Thats what prob causes it to loosen over time. The nut I tried to stuff in the holder before I slipped onto the spring, and tightened it. SUCCESS! Its tighter than I had it before and it doesnt seem to slip at all. Now when I go to rebuild the rest of the car, I'll see how much better it is. BBL! :D

[Saboteur]

GRrr. Stupid limit to edit post thingy. What I ment to say is the nut that I stuffed into the nutholder the last time, is now safely screwed onto the threaded part of the adjustment screw. Hey Mikewz, thanks for that tip on AIM. To adjust mine, I just stick a screw driver in the outdrive with the screw, and stick another in the otherside and tighten the screw. Simple as that. Its really working now, ready to be run. I have a sure feeling this nut wont loosen as much over time. :) :D

[MikeWz]

Anybody here running the niftech diff parts? I'm planning on getting them and I wanted some feedback before i throw out the money. Thanks guys!

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- You should be able to pick it up for about $10. Well the new thrust assembly comes with it plus the balls and rings.

cave- His diff can't be too loose because even with that metal gear he would melt his idler gear. Probably too tight. I couldn't find that one that was a complete tranny only the tranny without diff. I'm still looking because I knew I saw one. If he is worried about building it I could build it for him in about 20 minutes if he wants. I'll email him. My balls and rings last a long time in my diff. I just put a new thrust assembly in every few months. If you don't it can loosen itself and then you will have to rebuild the whole thing. I check mine 1 or 2 a race day to make sure it dosn't loosen or something hasn't happened to it. If so it only takes about 10 minutes to replace it.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- You should be able to pick it up for about $10 if you still need them. Glad it worked out for you.

cave- His diff can't be too loose because even with that metal gear he would melt his idler gear. Probably too tight. I couldn't find that one that was a complete tranny only the tranny without diff. I'm still looking because I knew I saw one. If he is worried about building it I could build it for him in about 20 minutes if he wants. I'll email him. My balls and rings last a long time in my diff. I just put a new thrust assembly in every few months. If you don't it can loosen itself and then you will have to rebuild the whole thing. I check mine 1 or 2 a race day to make sure it dosn't loosen or something hasn't happened to it. If so it only takes about 10 minutes to replace it.

[cave]

Got Speed
Thats cool bro. I think Tony will like that. Last time I replaced that thrust assembly my plates where gone. Where can I pick up that new on? Is it the same Part #? I like that Idea. With more power, the diff take more abuse. I think you'll find out with that Picco you got there. I found my sweatdspot. But now I start at loose at the slipper then tighten into it. I used to do the 5 turns out from tight. I was replaceing diff gears regularly.

cave

[racer2]

what is a good engine for the XXX NT
or what kind do u guys own.

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea, I will probably have to replace them more regularly now. It is the same part number since it is replacing the old one. I don't know if the track has it or not. Horizon has them. Here is a picture of it. I got in the habit of going by feel as to how tight the slipper should be. Because the first time I screwed the nut all the way down it pulled the threaded part right out of the top shaft. I checked it and I just hadn't threaded it in all the way. I threaded it in the rest of the way and started going by how tight it felt. Seems to work pretty well. I use the aluminum top shaft now though so I could do it the standard setup by I don't need to since everything seems to be working fine.

racer2- For racing or bashing? Are you new or somewhat experienced with nitro? If you are racing and have a little experience with tuning get a Mugen, RB, Colari, Orion, Picco, or some sort of racing engine. If this your first nitro then maybe you should think about something like the O.S. CV-R for either racing or bashing. It will have plenty of power for bashing and plenty for racing for quite a while untill you can handle something else(assuming you have never raced before).

[Got Speed]

I forgot here is the picture. Molded Diff Thrust Bearing w/carbid [LOSA3098]

[Saboteur]

I'm so happy my idea worked. The losi ran with ease! The handling at low and mid speeds are awesome. Some downsides to my testing ground (the baseball field) is that the dirt there was rather dusty so the car did spin or powerslide often, which was XTREMELY COOL AND FUN! I started out doing laps around the field at low speeds..probably 25mph or so. Another thing was the heat. Since today was very hot, the engine's carb got hot as well, repelling the fuel in the line. After letting it cool down a bit it ran some more. I'm definately gonna look into a drake tank as the stock one creates WAY to many bubbles...spoiling the fun. :( All in all I had a great run. Maybe I'll go out later in the evening when its cooler. :D :)

GS- Thats exactly how the washers and that thrust bearing holder looks from the neo's centax. To bad its a little to big for the outdrives. :(

[racer2]

Got Speed- I race my acr so yes it would be for racing and i am somewhat experienced with nitro. Right now i have a Dynamite .12spd engine but want something kind of better. The engine right now works but i have been having some trouble with it. I am just looking for a new one. :)

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Glad it worked for you. As for the bubbles you may want to replace your fuel lines first. The tank might not be causing the bubbles. If your carb was really hot you may have been running your engine too hot or if you have a metal carb that is normal.

racer2- Do you run somewhere where they require it to fit ROAR specs? Or do you plan on racing in a ROAR sanctioned event? If so, then you can forget about any 4+ port engines. cave and MikeWz swear by the MT-12. It is a great engine that is why it so popular. Hopefully I will be getting one to race in a ROAR race but right now I am using a Picco Turbo 7 Port. It is awesome. It has so much power and top end it is unreal. Other good choice would the the RB and the Colari. There are legal and illegal versions of those too. port versions of those too.

[rhcsavage21]

ok i am geting my xxx-nt on wednseday. i can't wait. i will be puting a mx-3 radio and a .12 cv-rx (i am geting the arr version)
is there any thing i need to know besides the diffs being tuned right. i have questions like are the tires glued, i have a ofna 3 shoe clutch do you think the xxx-nt clutch bell fit on it. are the stock tires good. what are the best servos to use. any hop-ups i should consider geting. is the stock shock oil good. and i am still going around looking for the best glow plug to use any suggestions.


thanks for all the help.

the almost owner of the super duper ausome magical xxx-nt

:D Rick:D

[dkj-M3]

http://198.93.112.47/skipgear/pictures/ThrustBearing.jpg


Go to Skipgear.com (http://skipgear.com/) to get it.

[Saboteur]

Thnx GS. I was wondering, why is the pressure line a bit longer than the fuel line. Someone told me if I had a longer fuel line and shorter pressure line that it would run lean. Still If I swapped em would that be alright? I'll test the line for air leaks and if there is one, snag a fuel line from my Neo TNT and see how it goes 2morrow. That is whats cutting my perfect run time; darn airbubbles. :)

[cave]

Saboteur

Blue thunder foams alot causing airbubbles. I also had them when I had the old style fuel tank. I still have alittle problem with the airbubbles. I change fuel lines. Nada. Changed tank, Nada, I run a different fuel now and it seamed to help alot. I run two types. Which ever the track has at the time I need it. Trinity platinum race formula and Side winder race formula. Both 20% nito This helped more than anything else... I got new fuel lines too Nada
oh Nada means nothing lol

cave

[Saboteur]

Just did the test. There is no airleaks in the line. I heard this drake tank is supposed to cut down on the airleaks. If this prob persists, I'll look into it.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- If you are running a pressure line that is about 10" long and a fuel line about 3" long give or take a couple inches youre fine but I don't think that will cause air bubbles. I am not sure about that too. I have also heard about blue thunder foaming too.

dkj-M3- That looks like the same as the Losi one except it only has 6 balls and has thicker rings. Have you tried it? Does it work any different?

rhcsavage21- The Ofna 3 shoe clutch is for an 1/8 scale which is a different design. It won't work. The 2 shoe clutch that comes with it works just fine. I don't know if the tires are glued sorry(drake). The stock tires are fine for bashing and they are raceable but you should find out what the best tire for you track is if you plan to race. As far as upgrades you may want some ti turnbuckles and either captured ball ends or ti. ball studs for the rear shock tower. The "best" servos to use may not be the best for you. If you have $300 to blow on just servos you can get the "best". Anything with at least 90oz/in of torque and .2 transit speed with metal gears should be able to stand up to bashing and racing just fine. The faster and more torque the better but I find .2 speed and 90oz/in of torque is plenty for bashing and sufficient for racing though it may leave a little to be desired. I don't know what oil comes in the RTR but for bashing 35wt all around is a good wt. to use. For racing it depends on the track. For a glow plug I really liked the O.S. #8 alot in my CV-R The MCoy MC-59 worked pretty well as well as the O.S. A3 too. The temp/brand also depends alot on the weather you run in.

[Saboteur]

GS- I run Megatech's High Velocity racing fuel. I think its the vibration thats causing the air bubbles, as I could see the surface of the fuel with a ton of ripples.

[pooldoc101]

Saboteur- get the new style gas tank, the one with the pressure fitting on the lid of the tank. The old style has a tube that runs into the fuel, causing exhaust to flow thru the fuel, which is what causes the foaming. The new style doesn't make the exhaust run thru the fuel, which will eliminate the foam. Pooldoc

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by Got Speed

rhcsavage21- The Ofna 3 shoe clutch is for an 1/8 scale which is a different design. It won't work. The 2 shoe clutch that comes with it works just fine.

the 3 shoe clutch is a 1/10 .12/.15 for a threaded crank.
it is already on my .12 cv-rx they don't make it anymore i think but my LHS has lots of spare parts for this clutch. i have been in this hobby for a year know. i am not that dum:cool:

[dkj-M3]

Got Speed- I haven't tried it YET but I hear good things about it. I'll let you know.

[Saboteur]

Thnx pooldoc :) How much are those..and does anyone have a pic of what it looks like?

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Oh, ok. I can't really help you then. I would think that the new tank would help though like pooldock said. I would look on ebay. You can get the graphite top deck and tank for $17.

rhcsavage21- Oh ok, I'm sorry about that. I didn't think Ofna made anything like that for 1/10 scale vehicles. If it is a three shoe clutch I seriously doubt it will fit still because the NT flywheel is designed for a 2 shoe clutch(only has two pins for the clutch) and the 3 shoe is probably a different size. There isn't any problems at all with the stock one though.

dkj-M3- Ok thanks.

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by Got Speed
rhcsavage21- Oh ok, I'm sorry about that. I didn't think Ofna made anything like that for 1/10 scale vehicles. If it is a three shoe clutch I seriously doubt it will fit still because the NT flywheel is designed for a 2 shoe clutch(only has two pins for the clutch) and the 3 shoe is probably a different size. There isn't any problems at all with the stock one though.

o i just wanted to use the clutch bell thats it. i just want to know if the clutch bell will work.

[cave]

Saboteur
I have a blurry one. Hope this works

[MikeWz]

Racer2-GS pretty much nailed all the good racing engines, obviously I'm partial to one of those :D

Saboteur-Ebay would be your best bet for one of those, you can pay $7 at your LHS (not sure but that's what they charge at mine) or get the tank and graphite deck for between $15-$20. Seeing as though my LHS charges $20 for the deck alone, I'd that's not a bad deal. :D

Savage-if you wanted to fit that clutch on the NT you'd have to get a new flywheel for it to fit, I was thinking about getting RR's vented flywheel for the maxx, but I'm not sure if it'll fit, but it doesn't have 3 pins anyway so it wouldn't help you :D

[Saboteur]

Yeah its all the vibration I think thats causing those bubbles. On my TNT the tank doesnt sit on the chassis so I dont see any ripples on the surface of the fuel, unlike my NT. I'll check that upgrade. Other than that if the fuel tank did sit above the chassis a little bit, it probably wouldnt vibrate as much. Ah well. Gonna head out again later and test the NT infront of my apt building. See how's the handling on asphalt, concrete and more grass. :)

[RCRACER2471]

Is it ok if i use associated carbide balls for the diff than the Losi one???? My LHS barly carries and Losi parts and diff balls arent one of them.......:rolleyes:

[MikeWz]

RCRACER-They should fit, just double check to make sure they're the same size. I'm not sure what size the AE ones are.

[grimlock3000]

action shots from earlier this week:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/truck1.jpg

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/truck2.jpg

i have developed a noise somewhere in the drivetrain. when i let off the gas, my truck makes a subtle whirring noise as it slows down from high speed. the truck runs great so i am not sure if i should take my transmission apart if this is normal.

[Saboteur]

SWEET! I'm going to try to go out later on or so, since earlier in the day it was really hot. You may need to check the diff or so to make sure nothing is wrong. Again..nice shots. :cool:

[cave]

Any Noise coming from my diff and I take it aprt. better to chang one part out than the whole inners. Just my -.010 Cents :cool:

cave

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

grimlock3000-my bashing site has rocks-your site, on the other hand, has rocks!

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by MikeWz
Savage-if you wanted to fit that clutch on the NT you'd have to get a new flywheel for it to fit, I was thinking about getting RR's vented flywheel for the maxx, but I'm not sure if it'll fit, but it doesn't have 3 pins anyway so it wouldn't help you :D

so becuse i want to put the xxx-nt clutch bell on my 3-shoe clutch system i have to get a new flywheel. i already have one with three pins it was a set i got. (clutch shoes,clutch shoe spring flywheel and that nut thing that i can't think of the name right know. there was no clutch bell. )

i'm so confused:confused: :confused: :p

whaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by MikeWz
RCRACER-They should fit, just double check to make sure they're the same size. I'm not sure what size the AE ones are.

There 3/64" which is the same size as the Losi one so im guessing it would be fine......

[MikeWz]

RCRACER-Yeah as long as they're the same size you'll be just fine. I'm using ACER's in mine right now and I really like them a lot. I just had to rebuild mine the other day but it's running awsome now.

RHCSavage-As long as you have a flywheel with 3 pins (one for each shoe) than you'll be fine. I was only saying you were gonna need a new flywheel because the Losi one only has 2, but you'll be fine. Give it a shot man!

[rhcsavage21]

thanks but i had to lay down and let my brain reboot.:D :D