Team Losi XXXNT forum v6.0

[RandomGuy]

ok I have a question now about my diff nut replacment after explaining all that lol. When i put the new nut in...is there any special way i should put it in so i can tighten the diff to the right setting as Im installing it? or just install it and tighten it with the wheel turning?

[dgrobe2112]

In your manual on page 14.. it tells you in bold.. to tighten the screw a little, then work the diff, then tighten a little, then work the diff.. and so on.. then when you hold the 2 outdrives at the same time.. try to spin the diff gear.. if it spins.. tighten more.. if it dont.. then put it in the truck and you will be able to do final adjustment later..

Final adjustment.. after you got your diff assmebled and in the car.. screw down the slipper nut all teh way down.. then back it off 5 turns.. then do the test of holding the passenger wheel, and spur gear at the same time.. spin the drivers wheel, and if the slipper spins.. your good to go.. if the diff spins.. you may tighten the diff, or, what i did, loosen the slipper.. my slipper is at 5 1/2 turns out.. and it slips before my diff does..

[RandomGuy]

ok but the thing is I stripped the nut...so i have the diff assembled in the truck...but i opened the diff and the diff nut and its spring and such are all out on the left side. The screw is in on the right side and i can see it coming out the left side to where the diff nut will be..any suggestions on threading the diff nut onto the diff screw while its assembled in the truck?

[Got Speed]

cave- Ryan was racing gas truck last night!? Yea, he is fast. He was partialy sponsored before the cactus now he is fully sponsored. LOL, 9 out of 10 times the fast guys aren't the guys that go around screaming about everything. :) 3rd place, thats pretty good. A-Main or B-Main? Are you going to be out there tommorow?

[cave]

Got Speed I was in the B main. Heck the guys in the B main are usually in the A main on Saturdays. That guy Ryan mayfield is so darm quick. If he dont make a mistake forgetaboutit. I had a great time last night. I just ran my own race. I had second but one if the turn marshals couldnt get up from the side of the curb where he was sitting in front of the drivers. I landed so hard that I bounced upside down. When he finally made it to my truck (seemed like Hours) he flipped me over facing towards the pipe rather then pointing me in the right direction. Got hung up there too. I still had a great time!!!!! I can see why everyone gets caught up in the moment. A couple of guys were so pist that I came in 3rd that they wouldnt even talk to me after the race. Man I wasnt even trying to win. I just wanted to finish the race without breaking. See you tomarro.
cave.

[winning edge designs]

Dmann, that was a great line..."I think my former Mach .15 sucked more air than a bag pipe ran over by a lawn mower", LMAO!

Cave, one of the best ways to insure at least a podium finish is to try and stay running and unbroken for the entire race, good job!....The fastest racers only win if they manage to do the same, heh. I'm sure you know that the same guys putting in the least effort marshalling are the first ones yelling when they are marshalled poorly, isn't that always the way?.......haha....Jim

[cave]

WED your are so right. I got a work out last night. I like the corner where the tripples are. I wanted to see where the fast guys linened up. Thats one of the crash zones. I try to get trucks up fast cause I now know Its a race against time at SRS. I'll remeber his truck next time. lol. Naw I wouldnt play like that:D
Cant wait till tomarrow night. jim whats your track like? got any pictures? Any pics of your truck(s) or cars? A web page?
cave

[sLiTcH]

This questionhas probably already ben answered but please I cannot check all the 10840659363205842976 pages. Can I put colored ball ends (yellow or blue) made by RPM (I prefer RPM but any other trademark will be ok) on my XXX-NT turnbuckles. I tried to put the long shank blue o my turns but the turns are toobig and even if you force them the ball cup will become white (like when you bend cheap plastic).

[dmann33]

Slitch - The RPM ball cups should work fine. I have some (yellow) on my truck. Don't know about the "white" thing.

Maybe someone else has had that happen, but you should be fine.

[Got Speed]

See you there tommorow. Ryan was racing gas truck thursday? Yea, like WED said, the slow marshals who don't care if your truck gets flipped over or not are the first to be screaming if theres isn't back right in less than a second. lol

[dkj-M3]

Yea, like WED said, the slow marshals who don't care if your truck gets flipped over or not are the first to be screaming if there's isn't back right in less than a second.


Man that's so true. Why is that?

[MikeWz]

Slitch-I know what your talking about with the white thing. I bought some Matt Francis red ball ends for mine and that's what happend. The Turns were too big for them. This WILL NOT happen with RPM's. They do fit on the XNT's turns without a problem

[jasonrcfreak]

Should I use the long shank ball ends or the short ones for an NT?

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- I think most of those people are the ones who are there to show-off or just to win instead of having fun.

jasonrcfreak- You need the long shank ends.

I use the MF red ball cups with no problems.

[RandomGuy]

quick question before i do this! lol...when installing a new diff nut should i just tighten it using the wheels when its all assembled or do something else? I guess just the wheels would work right? but it would take a lot of tightenin that way i guess i dunno i dont wanna strip it again! lol

[Got Speed]

You can't tighten it with the wheels. You need to hold one wheel in one hand and tighten the bolt with a screwdriver. Tighten it a little a time working the diff in between turns. When you start to feel some resistance from the bolt tightening; hold the spur gear and one wheel in one hand and turn the other wheel in the other hand. If the slipper plates turn then it is tight enough. If they don't turn but the drivetrain still slips you need to tighten your diff more. Tighten it in small increments untill the slipper slips first. Then tighten it about 1/16-1/8th turn more. Hope this helps.:)

[RandomGuy]

so im tightening the diff screw in while the nut is secured in on the other side right? cause i cant tighten it from the nut side cause whats stickin out is plastic... just makin sure thnx for the help

[RandomGuy]

just maken sure.....better be safe than sorry lol this is wat im gonna do:

put the wheel on the left side(nut side) leave the axel and wheel off on the diff screw side(right side)

tighten the diff screw slowly...every little bit of a turn pushing in the diff nut so it stays in right? and when it gets tight then check it with the tight test thing and when the slipper slips and not the diff tighten it a lil more and im good. right? :D thnx for all the help

[cave]

This diff thing is kinda tricky. I just adusted the Drake and It seems OK but so did the RTR before I stripped ithe heehee. Time to go racing
Get sideways you gunna be there with your buddy? Later
cave

[rc_nut1]

Anyone know where I can pick up a triplexnt kit?? not the RTR or the drake edition, just the kit. I've been trying to find one for awhile now and have had no luck. I might have to go with the drake if I cant find one. :D Oh yeah my LHS wants $300 for just the xxx-nt kit so I wont get it there.

One other question...I am thinking about getting a fantom 12 with a rotary carb and I just want to know if anyone has had any bad experiences with them.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by rc_nut1
Anyone know where I can pick up a triplexnt kit?? not the RTR or the drake edition, just the kit. I've been trying to find one for awhile now and have had no luck. I might have to go with the drake if I cant find one. :D Oh yeah my LHS wants $300 for just the xxx-nt kit so I wont get it there.

One other question...I am thinking about getting a fantom 12 with a rotary carb and I just want to know if anyone has had any bad experiences with them.

Most shops were charging about $270 for the regular kit (not Drake) if they have any in stock. Ultimate and Stormer were selling off their remaining inventory for $125 to $150 but those kits are gone. Pick up a Drake kit for $320 and you'll appreciate spending the extra $50 because you'll get more than that in hop ups like graphite parts, titanium turnbuckles, steering bearings, alloy brake clips, threaded shock bodies, nitride shock shafts, Drake exhaust header, Drake tuned pipe and a Fury body. That's a lot of stuff for only $50 more than the plain kit.

I have a '02 Fantom FR12r and it's one of the better low price engines I've had. It may not have the power to muscle out the big boys on a huge track but on a small technical track it does OK. I put the smallest AE carb restrictor in and can keep up to any truck down the 85' straight and have plenty of power to come out of turns while getting over 12 minutes per tank. Not to shabby. The only reason I don't win more is my driving skills need a lot more practice.

[rc_nut1]

wow that sucks :( I wish I would have got back into racing 4 months ago. I just sold my Nitro Hawk for $90 today so I'll be ordering the kit soon. Anybody even remember those?? After 2 years of sitting the glow plug was still good and the engine fired right.

Thanks for the help.

[cave]

Got Speed
That was fun last night. If I ever get like that one guy who stepped on his kids truck let me know.:D
Hope you go out there today. Maybe 95° this afternoon. RB concepts? That motor Hauled A$$. I changed the oil to 35 wt in the rear. I hope this helps the control. Seems like they moved the tripple out a bit .LOL. See you later. hopfully.

Tjraceing 2nd place. That cv 12 is pretty fast. Lucky pass bro. If if if if if if I would tighten my servo saver well youno LOL LOL yea yea yea. See you all later. I was wondering why I couldnt turn right. yea yea yea.

Getsideways I hear from the race vine you may be ready to race tuesday or thursday. You should. You've seen me drive. Just have fun. If you want Ill tie you knees together so you cant here your knees knock. That will be hard tho, I dont think I can share the rope I use for mine. heheehehe Hope your out there tonight.
cave.

[getsideways]

cave we were out saturday morning and had a blast. i want to start racin soon. maybe next week. see ya

[getsideways]

i have the xxx-nt rtr and was wondering if the bushings for the steering can be replaced with the bearings from the drake and will it help th steering at all. thanks

[cave]

getsideways

Its alot of fun bro. Hope you make it out. Later
cave

[cave]

Big time Improvment. Do it if you can!. My steering is sloppy cause of that bushing. Last night I found out that my servo saver was loose. Real loose. I coulnt turn right. If & when you replace your steering bushing Give it a check turn or two. If your sterring is loose this may be your problem. Your coworker says he got a Mugen .12 MT on line for 148 bucks. I wish I didnt have a motgage to pay or I'de pick one up now...
cave

[getsideways]

yea that guy on ebay has has some good prices. wish i could pick one up to. oh well

[cave]

getsideways

how do I search for that site. do you have the keyword or hobby shop name?

[RandomGuy]

terribly sorry for reapeating but i just wanna make sure i install this new diff nut correctly.....better be safe than sorry dont wanna strip it again lol ok this is wat im gonna do:

put the wheel on the left side(nut side) leave the axel and wheel off on the diff screw side(right side)

tighten the diff screw slowly...every little bit of a turn pushing in the diff nut so it stays in right? and when it gets tight then check it with the tight test thing and when the slipper slips and not the diff tighten it a lil more and im good. right? thnx for all the help

[cave]

RandomGuy

Once you got the nut on, dont forget to adjust your spur gear slipper. turn it all the way in then back it off 5 turns. when you test the tightness your slipper ( spur gear ) should slip. If it slipps real easy tighten your slipper a tiny bit till it just bareley slips.
I used a small socket to apply pressure to the nut This held the nut square to the inside. This helps the nut go on straight. Ive done it with the case installed too. good luck
"Thos who dont ask dont recieve". So ask away. I do.
Alot of peple here are awsome with INFO.

bob2001 & getsideways I emailed him to see if he has any more. Thanks guys
cave

[RandomGuy]

thnx cave :) Ahh i got 2 day shipping from horizon come faster you swines!! *twitches* ahhhh lol

[Got Speed]

RandomGuy- Yea, that's it. And like cave said make sure your slipper isn't real loose(like where you can hold the spur gear easily while the slipper turns). Once you get the diff adjusted to where you think it is right then adjust the slipper. Then do the diff tightness check. I check mine probably 3 or so times a day. So just in case the nut or thrust assembly decide to allow it to loosen I can put another one in before it would strip a gear.

cave- It dosn't look like Ill be out there today. Unfortuanatly I don't think Ill be out there next saturday but the following for sure. By then I should have my T-Maxx :p lol. LOL that was funny. The kid pulled his car up and the guy just steps on it. :rolleyes: :p I wish I could afford(and have time) to get out there and race more often. hehe, don't we all. How did the 35wt. oil work out for you?

tjracing- Yea, it looked you had the CV running great out there.

I couldn't have been more pleased with my engine. Especially since it has at least 3 gallons on it and is still running at 220-230. Starts on the first try and all. Now I need is more power :D. The Mugen, Wasp, Sirio, and RB engines are all engines Im considering right now. If anyone has any comments on these that has run any or all of them please lmk.

[winning edge designs]

Cave, been at the TeamLosi Champs all weekend, just got back a few hours ago. (It was cool to meet Travis there).
I race at the Boggy creek track (see R/C Pro website), Minnreg (where the TeamLosi race was and the worlds will be), Superior Hobbies, 555 raceway in Bartow, in Ocala....I basically travel to alot of races within 4 or 5 hours, so I don't claim any particular track. There is a pic of me and my cars on the Maxy Fuels website and on the R/C Pro website as well.
I'm hoping to get to Savannah for the Georgia states in two weekends as well!.......ttyl, jim

[cave]

Thats cool W.E.D. You get around. I got a question for you. I have a mugen and I really like the slide carb but I would like to get a Rotary to see the difference for my self. What carb could I get that has great responce yet controlable power. I was all over the track. I think the slide may apply all the power at once. I love the straightaway responce. but when the track is dry I get real squerley. I do know that my servo saver was real loose.
Today I was out there and it was real dry. I couldnt get on the power. I know the motor is made by Novarossi. Will one of their rotaries work?

Got speed , Missed you out there today. I ran all day long. Not a person on my frequency at all. Not even on my back up. I ran the drake with my old HPI .15 SS. Man that motor is fast. sounds like the RB. I was able to pull wheelies on the back straight at will! To bad it dont have that bottom end punch. It may be the HPI servo that lacks responce. I broke a rear A arm and the hub. tj and I raced up the table top and tapped in mid air. I got the worst of it... I rassed him for a few.
Bob ( The guy who helped with the cone prob seconds before your Main was there. He has a killer Drake. That thing is fast and turns on a dime. Ihe let me drive it. Hey if you got a answer for me on the carb deal let me know.
I practiced on the tripples all day long. I think Ill do better next race. see you in two weeks.
cave

[cave]

I rang this bell once in the race. OOPs

[cave]

here it is

[fezzy]

Hi again guys, I got to run my Losi @ the track again on Saturday and although I replaced my idler after it stripped the tranny has now developed a new noise, Its basically a crack that sounds like when your crack your knuckles, It seems to be on hard acceleration over rough terrain. I've had my tranny out again and cleaned/checked it all and yesterday I rebuild my diff, cleaned everything and added some moly grease to the 'right' areas, But its still doing it. The only thing left I think it can be now is the diff gear, It does look in good condition but there are 1 or 2 teeth that don't look in as good a condition, But not what I'd thought would cause a problem. Any ideas?!

I've also got a query about my steering, I seem to have less radius turning full lock right than I do full lock left, again.. Any ideas?.

Thanks

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea, too bad I couldn't make it out there. I need to get out there more during the week and practice. lol I tried my holeshots out there when it was still wet. The traction was unbelievable. I could throw it into just about any turn without spinning out(as long as I didn't hit the loose dry dirt on the outside line). If I tried to corner it too sharp it would flip sometimes instead of spinning out. lol I think Im going to save what's left of them for the main next race. hehe I went to go shrink some pics of the Cactus Classic this morning but some how all 40 pics got deleted :( I got about 10 pics saturday though. Im going to try and reduce some of them. When it is real dry like that you can loosen your slipper up a bit to keep some of the power from the wheels. It will keep the tires from spinning so much. What kind of engine does Bob run? LOL, Im glad he was there to help. It would have taken me an hour to do all that. We got it done in about 20 minutes hehe. Will you be out there on the 26th?

fezzy- I would start by replacing the gear. If it dosn't still have teeth that are all in good condition it will probably go taking the idler gear with it. For $3 it isn't worth taking a chance. Cave had the same problem saturday. The bolts in the steering brace backed out on him.

[grimlock3000]

Yesterday I was finally able to get my XXX-NT up and running! I put about 5 tanks through during a break in and another couple tanks of good bashing. I was running on a combination or grass and packed dirt on the side of a hill and the truck was perfect. I am using the stock setup with 40wt shock oil at all four corners, rear arms level and the front is about .25 inches above level. I did not break any parts or having any issues with the truck at all. Even running less than 220F, the truck was lifting the front end over some bumps. I am very impressive and so was everyone else who saw the truck run :D

I have a OS CV-R .12 with the 10A slide carb. Right now I am still in the process of getting the engine setup right so it idles better. When I got the carb, the slide was closed so I turned the idle screw in a bit (but probably not enough). During the break in and running, my carb idle screw was set to have the carb barely open at idle. I was having to his the gas to get it going once it started and it would stall out after a few seconds if left alone. I opened it up a bit last night but I am not sure where exactly it should be. Does this look right? Should I give the screw another turn out to close the carb a touch more?


http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/carb.jpg

[akprice]

i was wondering if the xxx-nt rtr version comes with steering bearings instead of bushings? does anyone know? i wanted to get some bearings for it, but the more i research, everyone says that it comes stock with bearings through-out the truck. anyone?

[dgrobe2112]

No bearings in the steering.. there are however bearings in the tranny, and wheels and stuff like that..

www.ebay.com has some there..

type in xxx-nt in the search section..

[akprice]

is it the drake edition steering assembly?

nevermind - i see the bearings by themself. thanks dgrobe!

[cave]

akprice
I know the ready to run dont come with the steering bearings but the drake has em

[dgrobe2112]

The steering assembly on Ebay, does not have bearings.. there is however a seperate auction for the bearings..

[akprice]

and so the bearings make a significant difference? i am looking for some better steering. i am going to get the hitec 925 steering servo, so i know that should help quite a bit.

[dgrobe2112]

you will get quicker response, less drag in the steering, and your servo will center easier.. you will notice a difference.. but.. you also got a high speed servo.. so that in its own will make a big difference if you are upgrading the standard servo.. prolly what you oughta do is put your new servo in, and try it out before you buy the bearings..

[dgrobe2112]

15 bux is a good price.. but i doubt you will see 15 bux worth of difference in steering.. you know what im sayin..

[akprice]

definitely! that makes sense. i doubt i would notice any change with the bearings if i had already gotten a high speed servo. thanks dude! you saved me $15. the check is in the mail!

[dgrobe2112]

No prob :D

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- I am using the same engine myself right now. The idle looks a bit high to me. When it's at idle does the idle drop untill it just stalls? If so you should lean you low speed needle. It's hard to get to so you will need a small screwdriver. Lean it in 1/8th-1/16th turn increments. Once it has a steady idle the wheels will probably be due to the high idle. So close it until the wheels don't spin at all or very little in the air. If this isn't the case then tell us what it sounds like and everything it does before it stalls. Hope this helped. :)

[grimlock3000]

Got Speed, when my truck was idling, it would just stall at various low speeds. It would not idle down or anything, it would just stop running :) If I held the throttle open by any ammount, it would idle indefinitely at a more reasonable speed for a .12. The slide was darn near closed during this. I took out the engine after running the truck, now I am just trying to get the idle screw into a better position before I put the engine back in the truck. I will close up the idle and take another picture until someone tell me it looks just right.

[RandomGuy]

ok so i finally get my XXX-NT sport out there today...break in was a nightmare.

First & second tank-
kept it at stock settings...started up great first pull but the thing would hardly move without stalling. The car didnt respond to the throttle well at all, it was so horrible. The thing just kind inched around with the little bit of throttle i put on. If i put a little more then it would stall. Only way i was getting any speed at all is puttin like a tiny tiny bit of throttle and leavin it there for a lil bit for a high idle and then extremley slowly goin into it. But even then i couldnt get any speed.

1/2 of 3rd tank-
still the same crap...only now i had some more issues. It kept stallin right away or when i hit the throttle so i did some low speed adjustments and its still not bein dependable for me. I heard of break in pains but MY GOD! lol

Anyone break in the mach .15 howd it run for you? ive seen break ins of traxxas engine before and at least the damm thing could go more than 3 mph without stalling by the 2nd even the 1rst tank.

I suppose ill work on it again tomorow...i packed in after 2 1/2 tanks from frustration and a lack of time.Any suggestions why the thing doesnt go anywhere? should i have leaned out the HSN? but when i did i juts got the same crap it wouldnt go anywhere without stalling. Im gonna reset the needles before i go out again...maybe thatll help. Any suggestions? comments?

[dgrobe2112]

Random, i dont have the RTR version.. i have a OS.12 motor in my truck.. and it told me in the directions, to tighten my HSN all the way down and turn it out 3 full turns to start with.. have you read your manual, maybe in there is something to tell you where to start your HSN, and LSN.. but i think for you to run your motor.. not sure about the LSN, but you can go with 3 turns out on the HSN... run one tank through the motor.. goosing it now and then.. then turn the needle 1/12, or 1 hour clockwise.. then run another tank through it.. and do that for 6 tanks..

But you will need to find out and make sure your Low needle is set right too.. if not, that could be why you are stalling.. too much, or not enough fuel when you give it gas..

So you finally got your diff fixed??

[poopie]

Randomguy, sounds to me like it is rich. When it stalls, does it sputter? Or is it a sudden stop?

[RandomGuy]

well i assumed the stock needle settings were already on the car..after all its RTR..but maybe theyre not? i dunno lol im reseting the needles now but the LSN is given me a hard time..the thing gets a lot of resistance as i get down and i have to almost force it down..but when i do get down its not like i broke the seat or anything i dunno its stupid ill get it i guess im just never sure if i have it in all the way lol

yea the diff thing is solved! woohoo! lol finally got the HG aluminum nut today from tower and installed without any problems. When i hold the right tire and spur the slipper slips all good and stuff...but one question..how can i know when the diff is slipping?

poopie- im gettin lots gas comin out of the pipe..but i guess this is normal for break in but wat if it was way rich and the stock settings were off wouldnt i have tons of problems stallin and stuff which i didnt at first...but i always had the stupid not goin anywhere syndrome lol. it was just cuttin out as soon as it started and sometimes just when i hit the throttle...weird.

[fezzy]

My Mach15 broke in beautifully, The high end was set perfect for me but the low end was very rich, I must of leaned it off at least a turn to get any throttle action down, After that it went very smooth only needing ever so slight leaning to keep it running as the piston/liner worn in more requiring a leaner setting.

[grimlock3000]

i took the carb in a bit. before i put the engine back in the truck, which one of these looks like a better position for the carb. this?

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/carb2.jpg

or this?

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/carb3.jpg


the bottom pic is opened up half a turn more than the top one. i am just going for something that will be a good baseline for the idle position since i can not adjust it in the truck.

having asked that that, i want to say every reccomendation made to me thus far concerning my setup has been perfect. without having a local shop to go to, this board is almost my only way to get help with rc stuff. i really applaud everyone's knowledge and helpfulness.

[RandomGuy]

thnx fezzy i think thats my problem...it was running fine reallie except for some minor problems but i was just gettin no throttle action like ya said. Ill try to leaning out the LSN and see what happens. Whats your elevation? im at about sea level on long island...maybe that matters a bit.

ya think that running it so damm slow and so damm rich for 2 and a half tanks and continueing the break in process the next day will have any effect on engine? be bad for it in any way? Thnx again guys :)

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- Does it bog before it dies? Or does it sound real high pitched and/or have a pinging sound? If it bogs you definatly need to lean your low speed needle a little at a time. Leaving your idle where it was before. When you do this the idle should get more stable and take off much better. Keep turning it in 1/8th turn increments untill it will idle fine and have good acceleration without bogging.

[grimlock3000]

"Leaving your idle where it was before."

i have no idea where my idle was before or where it should be, that is why i am posting picutres :) all i know is that the first time i ran my truck, my idle was too low. i have no reference point at all concering where the idle screw should be.

[grimlock3000]

i have no idea where my idle was before or where it should be, that is why i am posting picutres :) if you before means, "in that first picture you posted all by itself", then i have never run the truck with that setting. all i know is that the first time i ran my truck, my idle was too low. i have no reference point at all concering where the idle screw should be. i put the engine back in my truck, it is currently set to this:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/carb3.jpg

[cave]

grimlock3000
Clean that thing up alittle. J/K Got Speed really knows his stuff on this motor his ran sweet at SRS this past week end.

RandomGuy
Page 53 under TIPS FROM THE TEAM you see the heading Tuning the engine ? this is the setting you should use. I found my book the other day looking for something else lol2 - 3 turnds out from closed High end. Low end needle 2 turns out from closed. This should get you started. I had the same problem. BE Patient. You will love this truck when you dial it in. I run mine every day.

Got speed I tryed to posta pic this morn. Ill try again. i hit this post and rang the heck out of this bell

[grimlock3000]

"Got Speed really knows his stuff on this motor his ran sweet at SRS this past week end."

I know he knows his stuff, we are just having a communication problem right now and I am confusing myself :) I think he reccomended every single aftermarket part on my truck AND the starter box :D

[RandomGuy]

2 turns out on LSN huh? the factory settings of how it came with was 4 turns out(says on the back of the RTR operating instructions 4 turns out...guess thats wrong hehe im gonna try leaning it out gradually see what kind of improvment i get.

thats the one thing i like about traxxas better than losi..better manuals for engine break in and tuning..and correct stock settings ahh! lol

[winning edge designs]

Cave, The Novarossi carb will fit without needing a lunsford adapter like an O.S. carb would. Either will work, the O.S. will be a little less picky, but i've had good luck with both types really. Btw, I'll be in Georgia the end of april and Va the end of june.

Grimlock, the opening still looks a little wide, not much, but a little. Basically what you're most likely doing is running a rich bottom adjustment, so the carb must be open to allow enough air to balance the mixture....The symptom would be a high idle when you first allow it to idle after a high speed run. Then it will come down to what seems like a normal idle and continue to drop until is stalls 10-20 or so seconds after letting it idle. Try leaning the bottom end and closing the opening a little more, then retest. You basically want a 1mm gap, or slightly more. (I ), like this.....Hope this helps, Jim

[Grifter]

I think it's that time again.. Post some pics of your Trucks!

[grimlock3000]

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/xxxntdone.jpg

i can also host pics for anyone who does not have freely availible webspace they can link to. just email the pics to grimlock@blazenetme.net and i can put them up in the thread.

[cave]

grimlock3000 real nice.

WED can you give me a part number. I really want to see the difference. The Hobby shop guys think I'm nuts. I just want to see for my self. If It works better for me racing all the better. If not I'll just have a spare carb. Once I get one I'll give a tech report hehhehehhehhehe. Oh yea here is my drake. i got a hpi .15 ss It hauls on the top end lacks on the bottom. i think it the servo .

[Got Speed]

cave- Thanks. How did you manage to hit the bell? :confused: :p Looks like my car there in the backround. Are you able to host your own pics? I've tried shrinking some of my pics but I have to go from 350-450kb down to 64 lol. I think it is time to bring out my seriously ugly body. I lost a big section of mine saturday, lol. I painted it with old paint and used masking tape as a mask. Ill never do that again, hehe. See you there on the 26th.

grimlock3000- If it bogs you definatly need to lean your low speed needle a little at a time. Leave your idle where it is in your last picture. When you do this the idle should get more stable and take off much better. Keep turning it in 1/8th-1/16th turn increments untill it will idle fine and have good acceleration without bogging.

[spoonman]

my rtr broke in like fezzy's. it flies now.

[Grifter]

Nice Trucks!

[Got Speed]

cave- Oh, is see. LOL I though you had to hit the bell. hehe I wondered how it would ring :rolleyes: lol. I don't think that is my car cause it dosn't have blue. Maybe on the 26th I can try and get a pic with yours, mine, and your cousins car all in it and post it here or something. How do you like those red springs front and rear? Im thinking of doing it but if it dosn't work well I don't want to get another set of springs.

WED- Have you run the mugen, sirio, or colari XS-12? I'm looking at getting a new engine in the end of june. What did you find were the pros and cons of the ones that you have run?

[Scrad]

Shortening the length of the header and pipe give you more top end right? I ask this because my CV-R has way too much low end for my track. I've tired running a carb restricter and it smooths out the power band, but I'd like to mess with the lenght of the pipe to get more top end out of the motor and lessen the torque on the low end.

[grimlock3000]

maxman142001's truck:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/lee3.JPG

[winning edge designs]

Cave, I don't know what the part number is for the Novarossi barrel carb, but the guys at superior hobbies will! 4078349299. :).
Gotspeed, of those engines i'd easily go with the mugen! The sirio may make a little more top end, but any of those engines make too much already, lol. The mugen is less money, at least locally and has the best carb of the three you mentioned. I've had the Mugens, but only helped others out tuning thier Sirio's an Collari's. We had to change out the carb from a Sirio last race to a Novarossi carb to get it to stop tearing the o-ring on the low needle....weird? Every two runs(tanks) it would start running weird and be torn upon inspection. Not sure if it was an isolated problem with that particular Sirio engines carb or not....From what i've seen, O.S. is still the safest, but down on power(and not on your list), the Wasp and Mugen are next best carb wise, but far more power then the O.S.....There are others more powerful, obviously, but also seem more risky (tuning wise) and expensive.
Scrad, the pipe and header length will move the power band around, but won't increase or decrease it much, except in extreme cases. That is, rather then making peak power at 26,000 a shorter combination may make peak power at 27,200 rpm. Where a longer pipe/header might make peak power at 25,500, for example......If you have a high end radio, i've found the best method for low speed drivability is radio expo in the negative range. Try -30 to -70 throttle expo on slippery tracks. You'll still get everything the engine has at WOT, but it comes on WAY easier.........Jim

[cave]

Thanks W.E.D. I found the Novarossi site. They have a rotary for the Mugen. Im really courious to see how this is going to work.

Got Speed i can take pics and develope them using some different programs I got. I usually try to depixel mine abit. Helps with the time it takes to load. I just cant take action shots yet. That would be cool to all three or maybe Getsideways and Bob2001 would like to get in on the group pic:D Now thta would be cool. The Losi in the post is Charly's. I hit the post and that cow bell rattled BIG TIME. I blinked and the next thing I heard was the bell. No damage.lol. just my pride heheheehehe. Got Speed YOU know what motor I like :D . If you get the wasp I may get one too... That jones theory. I'm going to pick up that charger tomarro. That battery lasted all day on Sunday. That charger you got did the trick. I got so much overtime as of today that I will be able to pick up the other Mugen next pay period. see ya the 26th.
If you want me to take those pictures next race let me know GS.
getsideways and Bob2001 you want in on the group pic? Lets do it.:cool:

Any one know a online hobby shop where I can pick up a new Airtronics M8 radio with an FM module 75MHz range for a Fair price?
cave

[Got Speed]

WED- How do you like the wasp compared to the mugen. Those are pretty much my top choices right now.

cave- Oh, ok. Yea, I hate having to crop mine, since I don't have software to lower the pixel number. It would be awesome if we could get a pic of several cars coming off the tabletop or even just on the straightaway. I think my grandma could be would take the picture if you want to get in there. She took some pretty good ones last week. lol if you take enough pics your bound to get at least one good one. LMK if you want me to do that :p I really liked that charger when I got it too. It helpes so much from the wall chargers. Especially when I had only one battery and had to recharge between races. lol, yea, the mugens look awesome and Ive never heard anything bad about them. My two top choices so far are the mugen and wasp.

maxman142001- I see you have a cactus classic sticker on your rec box. Where you there several weeks ago?

[MikeWz]

You guys are all really luckey to have such a nice track near you, and that your all in the same area. My track is closed because they finally realized it sucked, so now there going to re-build it.

Anyone interested in a RTR XNT Less radio gear. It's pretty much all drake but the kick plate and rear shock tower. The rear tower is Carbon Fiber with AL mounts, it's actually lighter than the stock one.:D Just thought I'd list it up here before ebay, gotta buy me a GT mustang and any money will help!

[akprice]

mike - dude, ya getting rid of your nt? are you getting out of offroad all together now that you have your reflex?

[MikeWz]

Definatly not. I still have my drake :D . This is just an extra one. I've only race this once, then decided to stop pumping money into it and get a drake. I'd never get rid of off road totally. The RFX is fun but not that fun. Anybody interested in an extra?

[akprice]

i wish i could take it, but i'm still pumping money into the one i got! expensive friggin hobby! i should've taken up knitting or sewing.

[cave]

Got Speed, yea that would be cool. I have to figure out how to take action pics first. I'm thinking group shot too since there are alot of us from this forum. Im gunna pic up the charger today.

Got Speed you know Ryan has a Mugen too. That thing flies and it also sticks to the ground pretty darn good.

[RandomGuy]

thankyou you guys so much for helping me with my break in problems..just finished break in

one word...WOW!! THIS KICKS ARSE!! Im easily pulling wheelies and almost flippen the car over on the grass and on the road ooo baby the speed o the speed! how nice! I am so happy with this amazing truck! thnx again guys :) Ill post a video soon of this thing in action woohoo!

[maxman142001]

Gotspeed-The sticker on my car was from last years race. I didnt attend that one but I did go to this years race, it was great. I think I may be out there this Sat. since I havent had time to take my new CV-R to SRS. What high school do you go to?:cool:

[fezzy]

RandomGuy, Nice one.. Knew you'd get there in the end :)

[pooldoc101]

MikeWZ- how much you looking to get for that truck?

[RCRACER2471]

Anyone thinking about get the aluminum arms, shocktowers, pivot blocks from RC Trix for there Losi or already own them....Like to know if there worth it or not....

Thanx....

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, Honestly, it's a toss up so far. I got great life from my Mugen engine, so i'll have to wait and get more time on my Wasp to see how that compares. But as far as performance it's too close to call. Carbs are about the same tuning wise, as is bottom end. If I was going to be finicky, i'd say the Wasp had more top end and the Mugen more bottom, but's it's really, really close.....I dig the silver head on the Wasp, since it'll match EVERYONES paintjob!!!......:), Jim

[RandomGuy]

well heres my baby after its first day of running hehe. After taken it on the road and witnessing some nice speed and jumpin on the grass with a skateboard ramp..by the way i was very impressed with the controllability in the air :) Then it hit the dirt as you can see lol, in our homemade tight cornered tree littered track in the middle of the woods woohoo! haha ill have videos of races at our hinky dinky track soon. I got some battle scars along with my car..damm that infernal E-maxx hitten me in the leg..i showed him, he never won a race lol :D

questions...the dirt is really soft and my back end does massive power slides that my entire car spins around and i either end up into a tree or a pit of uncleared woods of leaves lol...any tips on suspension setups? Plus my tires keep spining in it..which looks cool but slows me down lol..suggestions on good tires? Also how long do you guys glow plugs last?..its eaten em up im on my last one o no!

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/xxxnt/dirty1.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/xxxnt/dirty2.JPG

[cave]

RandomGuy
Nice Truck. Dont foget to cleat it up. that oil will be tough to remove after it settle in. Use denatured alcohol or Nitro cleaner spay. I saw Got Speed with a bottle of simple green.
Got Speed I got that same charger you have. I charged my battery at 2.5 amps for 22 minutes. Cool. I like it. I'm useing servo connections for the hook up. Me and tj racing might go racing thursday. depends on if I can get my mugen running nice. I guess the weather is getting hotter and dryer. I got my Idle set real low and the truck still wants to roll you think its the clutch spring? I had one break already with the mugen.
cave

[Got Speed]

WED- thanks, Ill probably get whichever one is cheaper when it comes time to get one. I like that silver head too.

RandomGuy- nice. I do really like simple green. It's fairly inexpensive and cleans just about anything. Denatured alchohol works better on metal but simple green is easier. Just give everything a squirt and brush it off. You might like the mulchers for the kind of surface you are running on.

cave- cool, did you put a pc fan on it? Charging at more than 2 amps tends to get this kind of charger really hot. I havn't had a problem with mine with the fan on it. I just zip tied it down and hooked it up to a transformer. It could be the spring. Or you could have you idle to high and your low speed to rich. If your low speed is right then it is probably the clutch spring. If not try leaning your low end and then lowering your idle some more. Youll get noticeable more power if the low end was rich.

[RandomGuy]

well i just cleaned it with simple windex and a paper towel..got into all the surfaces i could without taking everything apart...looks good now but below the fuel tank i can still see is a mess :( whats with the whole upper deck having to come off to get out the fuel tank? bad design for cleaning lol

[dgrobe2112]

I agree, the whole upperdeck brace is a bad design, however, in the new RCcar action magazine, they have a new aluminum 2 peice upper brace, that allows you to be able to remove the steering servo without having to take out the whole brace, and the same for the gas tank.. withough haveing to remove the servo.. i will get page numbers and websites when i get home today..

Also, Random.. you can use a toothbrush too, to get into some of those tight places..

[dgrobe2112]

just make sure you dont use the same toothbrush you use on your teeth.. LOL :D

[Got Speed]

Id rather have an upper deck that makes it hard to get to stuff than no upper deck at all like the gt.

[dgrobe2112]

Got speed, i agree.. but nothing worse than having to take your dang servo out and have to remove all that other stuff.. but they have some hop ups now that is new upper deck.. have yall seen that new Carbon Fiber chassis for the XXXNT?? it weighs less than half the aluminum chassis..

[RandomGuy]

drgrobe..i kinda spun a peice of paper towel with windex on it till it was really small..stuck it in the little place i was tryin to get to and then used a screw driver to stick the paper towel into the crevis and move it around. Worked pretty well..maybe ill take off all the crap to really clean it if i get bored lol

[dgrobe2112]

Thats what i said.. it was fun the first time i did it.. but its get old pretty quick.. but if you do that.. it will help you learn the ins and outs of the truck.. Is yours the RTR version?? If so, that may not be a bad idea.. but dont get in too deep where you forget where everything goes..

[spoonman]

my pull start won't recoil anymore. i took it apart once and cleaned it and got the spring back in. is there a way to make the spring tighter?? i think i'm gonna get a starter box. this sux. any suggestions on one of those?

[dgrobe2112]

New pull starter.. or just get a bump box.. but you will also need to replace the pull starter with a backing plate.. and to do that.. you will need to cut the rod out the back of the motor..

[RandomGuy]

ah crap this blowes..i was replacing my springs to blue for kick arse jumpin action and i stripped the screw hole on the spring collar right in half. The collar wont tighten now and the springs dont reach the top of the shock arggg!!

part (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA5023)

i have to get this crap now lol...stupid shock collar..if my LHS doesnt have it i either pay like 16 bux for 2 day shipping or wait a long time noooo!!

any suggestions on substituting the collar with something else? i tried a zip tie it didnt work :(

[dgrobe2112]

Random, your talking about the peice that attaches the shock to the arm on the bottom right?? now.. if you brok it.. you will have to replace it.. but if it still threads on , use some red locktight.. but you will eventually need to replace it..

Ok, for future reference when you change your springs.. all you need to do is pull out the screw at the bottom that is threaded into the arm.. pull the shock out of the arm.. now.. you can hold the bottom peice that is threaded onto the shock shaft, and slide the lower cup up, and get it off and not remove the lower peice that is threaded onto the shock shaft, and then you can remove the spring, put on your new spring, and then put the cup back on and replace the shock back in the arm and tighten down..

lets see if this works..

-----------------]----o
shock shaft = ------------

lower cup = ]

peice that threads onto the shock shaft = -o

[RandomGuy]

no no i think you have the wrong part in mind. Its the peice near the top of the shock that holds the springs down in place cause the springs arent tall enough to reach the top of the shock. In the link its the two like cylinder parts on the right...biggest parts in the picture.

[spoonman]

do u mean the collar that holds the spring random??

[RandomGuy]

yes...and its tightened in with a allen key screw...and i scrwed in that screw way too far and split the screw hole on the side of the collar in half lol

[dgrobe2112]

Yeah.. you need a new one.. i got tons of them.. replaced all mine with threaded shocks.. you should too.. cuz its 19.99 for the threaded bodies and the collar.. for the fronts.. and 19.99 for the rear.. and then you aint gotta worry about it..

[stefcold]

RandomGuy: Here is what I did. I bought one of those RPM Quick Adjustable Spring Clips Kit, it's 5$. Then there is no need to adjust your shock collar anymore, so I put some CA on the screw and these collar won't be moving anythime soon.

Alot less expansive that buy threaded shocks or even replacing the collar (that you will probably strip again).

Stef...

[jasonrcfreak]

I'm thinking about putting a Wasp in my XXX-NT. Does anyone have any experience and thoughts about these engines?? Should I got side or rear exhaust?? Slide or rotary carb??
Thanks!
Jason

[pooldoc101]

Jason- I have a wasp in my truck, rear exhaust w/ rotary carb. It is a fast engine, holds carb settings well and best of all, gets killer gas milage. I would recomend it to anyone.

[MikeWz]

Dgrobe-I actually just got one of those carbon Fiber Chassis. I must say, I was a big skeptical but it's incredible. I didn't think it was going to rigid enough, but is plenty rigid. Now let's just see how long it holds up with the torque of the Mugen. I used some crazy glue around the edges which will help keep all the layers together, and sofar it seems to be pretty though. It makes a HUGE weight difference too!

[RandomGuy]

just want to express my frustration to you all...

god damm it!! i broke my bearings while cleaning them cause i lost a washer n tried to put them in anyway and the damm axle wouldnt go in so i forced it and broken them!! ahh 15 bux down the damm drain! :mad:

thankyou

[cave]

Got Speed I used Losi Steppins tonght at SRS. They had too much grip. I had my truck pulling wheelies. You saw how loose the slipper was. Man I was hooking. As the track dryed out It got more slippery. Luck for me gas trucks were the second heat. Tj raceing had to get a new motor. They gave him the wrong motor the first time. See ya when we see ya. Bob got a Mugen tonight. Its got a bigger cooling head. On the box its called a big head. later
cave

[banditwing]

MikeWz, can you give me a company or website for that chassis?

Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

banditwing..

they have them on ebay right now.. 59.99
item number
3127395688

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea, those are nice when the track is real wet but they are really bad when the track is dry. What was wrong with his motor? Did he mean to get a different one? The engine bob got, is it still a rotary carb? LOL, I was looking at that ofna/picco 7 port outlaw. I don't think I will do it though, I guess there is a time when there is too much power, hehe and they are illegal.

[Grifter]

.12 engine size is the legal size for racing right?

Thanks!

[cave]

Got Speed Thats a fast motor! Bob Got the Mugen and it comes with an 11 fin rather thjan a 9 fin for cooling. I like it. im gunna get one after I cash my check! I think I lost one of my Orion batteries last night. I remember putting it on the tabe before the race. I couldnt find it for the main. I got third cause every one who lapped me broke down. Thats racing. Scott made sure everyone knew that I got third cause everyone else broke down. man my truck is fast. Wish I could control it like Mayfield. I think I need a M8. Hey i found the cables. if you still want them let me know before the next race. Remind me to bring em. I almost got the tripple dialed in. I cleared it all but one time. It was cool taking that tripple at the same time as tjraceing. Wish we had a picture. I ame out in front of coares.

cave:D

[Got Speed]

Grifter- Yea, .12s are legal but they can't have anything over 3 ports though.

cave- Yea, I think there is a guy or two out there stealing stuff. Someone got several of there battery packs and some other stuff stolen at the cactus. Someone else said they got their nice computer radio stolen before the cactus too. I try and keep an eye on it and the people's stuff by me. Yea, if I get the mugen Id definatly like one with 11 fins. The one bob got. Is it the one he got off of e b a y? LOL, yea, if you break it bumps everyone else up and vice-versa, oh well it's all part of the fun. hehe, Scott is good about making sure everyone know that kind of thing. He's one of the best annoncers I've seen. Yea, if you don't need them, Ill take them. Thanks alot. Sometimes by starter box batterys like to go on me. I noticed a black plastic thing inside your box. Is it something the holds the batterys? Mine didn't come with anything to mount the batterys in, that's why I ask. I'd love an M8. Maybe someday I can upgrade. My XR3 works fine though. :D

Hopefully we can get a pic of 3 or 4 of us next week. Maybe off the tabletop or something. That would be a sweet picture.


tjracing- How did you do? What kind of engine did you end up with?

Thanks

[RandomGuy]

ok so my inside of the rim broke allowing the wheel pin to slide out at any given time..causin a hassle. So I went and bought rims on my LHS so i can stick the stock tires on. The problem: getting the good tires off the broken rim.

what do you guys use? im usin nail polish remover but it isnt doin any good...seems like its glued all the way around like crazy cause its factory glued :(

[Racin Rev]

RandomGuy,

Nail polish remover will only work if it is acetone, many of the newer removers don't use acetone because it is a heavy duty solvant (read: rot your brain through the skin) That may be why the wife is acting so goofey. :p

You can buy real acetone at the hardware store (read all the cautions carefully, and follow them.)

Or, you can boil them off by putting them in boiling water for over a half hour (results can vary)

I find that acetone is great if you want to clean and save the wheel, but boiling is better if you want to save the tire and insert.

[rc_nut1]

Ok, I found a xxxnt for sale...buts it has the old gas tank where the pressure fitting is in the top of the tank instead of the lid. I'm wondering why it was changed over? Also is there any other parts that have been changed, so I can check it over and see if it will need updated.

I know this has probably been posted be4, but I connect at 24Kbps and it will take me a week to go through all the posts :D I'll probably look through them anyhow.

[pooldoc101]

rc nut-some of the early kits had a black dif gear in them that was junk, the newer one is white, not a big deal because you'd probably want to open up and look at tranny when you get it anyway. Mine had the old style tank and had the newer diff . Pooldoc

[fezzy]

The idler in my diff was black, And so is the diff gear.... I've replaced the idler with a white/resin colour counter part and have a diff gear on order, both stripped.

The trouble with the 'older' design tanks is that it has a pickup on the pressure line so it tends to sypher all the fuel out through the pressure line and out your pipe, VERY annoying and a waste of fuel.

[RandomGuy]

racin rev...have you done the boiling water thing before? i dont care about the rim but i need to save the tire and the insterts..will the tire like burn off with the boiling water?

also...my trany is makin a weird cranky sound at one point when i turn the spur. I took off the axels and the spur gear to make sure its not a meshing problem or anything else. When i spin the clutch its fine...but when i turn the bar that held the spur gear it makes a cranky type sound at one point in its rotation. Like it spins fine almost all the way and at one point it cranks for a lil bit.

is this normal? i dont think so i dont remember this happenin before..thnx

[rc_nut1]

thanks for the help, I'll probably end up getting a newer tank and rebuilding the tranny if anything is worn badly

oh yeah, one last question :) whats a good price for an MT12? cause I'm trying to decide between a 2003 fantom 12 rear exhaust and an mt12.

[RandomGuy]

update on cranky thing...look up at my other post for a description of problem.

ok look at this pic below...the round thing with the hubs off the break disk...when i spin the spur that spins with it of course...now..see the one hub that has a little dot on it? well when that one comes by the metal..it makes the cranky sound..when it comes around and is off the metal...the cranky sound stops. Whats up with this? any help?

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/xxxnt/DSCF0044.JPG

[maxman142001]

Everyone should check this place out. They make nickel plated chassis, engine mounts and battery box protector.http://www.dacemfg.com :D

[winning edge designs]

Randomguy, the pic looks fine, but we can't see much else in the area. I would assume the noise is the pads when the brakes are off and throttle is open? Normal if that is what you're hearing. The rotor also floats, so it may make some noise as well, but neither should be loud enough to hear with the engine running?......Jim

[Racin Rev]

yes I have done this. I used an asparagus steamer because of its perfect size and the metal basket which prevented the wheel from touching the side of the vessel. It worked well, though my wife was somewhat less than pleased (I cleaned up everything and everything was fine)! When done I was left with a brittle residue of CA mostly on the wheel. It could be chipped off or acetone could be used. On the tire I am guessing that it will just crack off as you flex it. It isn't that big a deal really, you could probably glue on top of the old glue. It took about 45 minutes to get the tires to let go of the wheels. You might need more time as you are trying to preserve the tires and you say that they are well glued. You might want to watch for a couple of things: 1. be sure that the wheel is recessed from the vessel with a piece of wire or something so that the very hot bottom of the vessel is not in direct contact with the wheel. 2. be sure to monitor your water level so as not to cause a major catastrophe. One possibility that I haven't tried is to use a pressure cooker. the additional heat should not hurt the plastic/rubber, but it should degrade the CA a little better.

[RandomGuy]

thnx racin rev ill try it tomorow mornin.

winning edge..no its a very irregular sound..the reason why i put the pic up of the brake rotor was to show ya what the sound is correlating to..like it makes the sound when the hubs in the middle of the brake rotor are at a certain position..its weird i dunno whats wrong and im afraid to drive it with this werid cranky sound that ive never heard before.

[RandomGuy]

hmm...i took the brake rotor and the hub and everything off..and still when i turn it it makes the cranky noise at one point in the rotation...ahh!! i dont get this help!!

[cave]

have you checked your dog bones? Maybe one is bent or maybe the pin has worked its way out. Also if the clutch bell pinion gear is too close to the spur gear it will make a alternating wining sound. Are your bearings Ok inthe clutch bell? I could go on but check these out if you havent solved you problem.
cave.

[RandomGuy]

no i removed the spur gear, axles, entire break assembly which elimates any easy fix. When i turn the wheel with everything off(basically just the poles stickin outta the trany) it still makes the weird crank with resistance for a lil bit during every rotation. Im gonna try to call horizon tomorow err this is pissen me off lol

when i roll the car around on the floor its not that bad kinda cha cha cha cha cha cha but its kinda smooth but ya can still feel the crank...weirdness!!!

[cave]

RandomGuy
If Its chirping you may have spun the diff gear inside again. I did this racing. That bites its kinda tricky finding that sweetspot. I leave the slipper on the slippery side to avoid this now. I got a Mugen and the bottom end really rips.
cave

[cave]

RandomGuy
I just removed my flywheel from the Mugen and found that one of the post inside that alow the clutch to pivot has broken off inside causing a slight noise. I also had a problem with my idle too. This is my problem. i had that same sound you described. You should check this out. This may be a flaw in the design. My nephew has gone throgh two flywheels also with this same problem...
cave

[jdm3849]

Since I will already be ordering from tower, I was looking for a good safe air filter. I came upon motor saver air filters but do not know which one will fit into my losi with no problems.

Just to add, have any of you seen those anodized black chassis, with chrome cutouts (not holes) that will lower the over all CG by lowering servo's, reciever box, and fuel tank floating around on ebay? Usually sell for 50$, they will most likely look nasty when scraped up. another chassis someone is fabricating for the losi is a woven carbon fiber one, whats up with that? lol sell for 70-80$!

[RandomGuy]

well its not the flywheel cause it makes the noise when i spin the wheels or spur or brake pad but when its makin the noise the flywheel isnt movin and the noise seems to be comin from the trany. What do ya mean spun the diff gear inside? no comprende lol

[cave]

E hole ey Su no copreday.Eada. Inside the tranny case there is a gear that sits between the two out drives. This gear may be srtipped on one side or have a few flat spots on it. If you had the slipper tighter than the diff this could of happend
cave

[fezzy]

It sounds like mine stripped the idler/diff gear, it was really smooth when you rolled it or spun the wheels by hand and didn't make a noise. However when turning the spur it used to catch, I thought it was a meshing problem until I took the slipper and dogbones out and so that pointed to the diff, I would take your transmission out and check the quality of the teeth on your diff gear and idler 'compound' gear, its really not that hard. I've taken my tranny out about 20 times this week!!!

[gcoolt]

Yeah randomguy take your tranny apart like fuzzy said I had the same problem and had to rebuild my diff. You probably had it set to tight where it was doing wheelies real easy.

[RandomGuy]

yea..i admit i was a bit reckless with my slipper..and it was pullin some crazy cool wheelies hehe. Wish me luck taken this thing apart...its quite intimidating lol

one thing: how much of this shtuff to i have to take apart? it looks like the arms are kinda attatched and stuff but im not sure if i can just like screw out the four screws in the chassis that are under it or not . thnx for the help

[dgrobe2112]

whats up fellas.. well, everybody postin pics of there truck.. i wanna post mine..

[AreCee]

Originally posted by RandomGuy
ok so my inside of the rim broke allowing the wheel pin to slide out at any given time..causin a hassle. So I went and bought rims on my LHS so i can stick the stock tires on. The problem: getting the good tires off the broken rim.

what do you guys use? im usin nail polish remover but it isnt doin any good...seems like its glued all the way around like crazy cause its factory glued :(

The best and surest way to remove tires is to bake them in an oven or toaster oven at 350 for about 15 minutes. It will smoke some but that is OK. Put on gloves and work the tires loose after removing them from the oven. The CA will come right off and both the tire and the foam will not be harmed. The other methods will work but are much messier and time consuming also the acetone method is harmful to your skin and lungs. This uses no chemicals.

BTW ask permission of your mother/wife/girlfriend before doing this because it will stink up the kitchen. Place the wheels on aluminum foil in the oven to prevent any drips (or cleaning).

[Racin Rev]

AreCee,
I tried the oven trick. unfortunatly I was using polycarbonate wheels (on my TC) did a number on the wheels, though it did remove the tires. I also remember reading in posts that it is hard on the inserts. I would use gloves and a resperator if you have one, if using acetone (amazing that women would paint that on their fingers isn't it?).

[RandomGuy]

yay i found the source of the mysterous noise!! well i took apart the trany and found one tooth chipped off on the compound gear(the one thats connected to the brakeshaft. up side is i know the workings of my car a lot better now. Downside the only LHS with good losi part availability is over a half an hour a way n i just begged my mom to take me there yesterday so im screwd till she decides shes in a good mood. it sux bein 15 and into this hobby hehe.

some concerns:
how to prevent this in the future? was this simply cause my slipper was too tight?

i looked up the part # and found this..
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA2927 but the gear i got here is black..any differance?

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

just stopping by real quick, nice trucks!

[fezzy]

RandomGuy.... The new parts are white/resin coloured and are supposed to be much more durable, I just stripped the diff gear and compound gear. The new compound gear was a resin colour and my new diff gear was a white colour, I bought my Losi 2nd hand so I geuss it must be just wear and tear.

After I rebuilt my diff at the Local track with my new diff gear I went on and not a noise now, The Mach15 was also running really fast and wasn't even over 200f, I was very happy until I went into a corner, put the brakes on to get the back end round and after that I lost brakes, I looked and a metal caliper and the threaded screw that holes the lower part of the brakes together was missing, I am getting pretty damn annoyed with it now, I've not had 1 good day with it since I got it. Oh well, I still love it to bits when it runs right and my bad luck has to stop sometime!.

One question however, On the brake assembly step it says to screw the threaded hex screw in until it stops, But I remember last time I rebuilt it and it never did stop and found it locking my diff up as it went straight through the tranny housing, Does anyone have any tips to set it up right?! I've also noticed my brakes are very poor compared to my mates on his Losi XXX-NT Sports.

Cheers

[winning edge designs]

Random guy, you should have, or get, a flesh or tanish compound gear and a white diff gear. These are more durable than the black parts are. The slipper setting would only effect diff temperature if set to tight, since it would force the diff to slip since the slipper can't under heavy accel. This eventually melts the diff gear and tears out the center when softened.......The compound gear usually only fails after alot of use, contamination in the trans, or older/earlier materials.............Jim

[RandomGuy]

only strips after much use eh? ive ran it like twice! lol hopefully the white gear will be better. I feel your pain fezzy..had the thing for two weeks on my like 5th problem..parents are gettin pissed havin to drive me to the LHS all the time lol. I guess its good experience since i didnt build the thing but its getting to be a real thorn in my arse. So far ive stripped the diff gear, broke 2 bearings, lost some washers, broke an inside of a rim, and now this stripped compound gear. All this with like 1/4 of a gallon through it lol..i guess the more i break the more i know the more i know the less i break :D

the bright side is i just found an awsome track near me..indoor nitro offroading clay surface awsome track like unlimited parts availability for losi..only prob its like 40 minutes away lol

[grimlock3000]

since getting my engine going, i have put about 1/3 a gallon of fuel through it in the last week :) my xxx-nt has proven to be very reliable and and i have not had a single part break on me yet other than some e-clips falling off and a lock nut stripping. the rpm bumper has to be the best part of the truck, a couple times i have driven into trees at speed only to bounce right off and keep going. my os cv-r is running great but i really do not have much to compare it to. it starts right off and never stalls while i am running the truck. it also has far more power than i need too :)

today i went out to a playground with a friend who was taping most of it. it went good except for that fact that everytime something really cool happened, the camera was not running. it did catch some crashes though :rolleyes: right when we were getting ready to hit some big rock jumps, one of my rear tires came half off the rim thanks to my poor gluing job :( that put an end to my running but i finally understand what has always been my issues with gluing tires. i never use enough glue. i got the tires back on with enough glue to keep them there now. anyway, i have almost worn all the tread off the back tires anyway while being stupid and playing on the pavement too much. what are the best all terrain tires that will last a while?

here is a small video of today's bashing. i am very blippy with the throttle and can not seem to get over that for some reason. the audio is pretty good but the video is only decent. let me know if the engine sounds right:

ftp://207.5.155.117/xxxnt.WMV

next week, i am hoping to go out and get some big air video :)

[grimlock3000]

WHOOPS! Try this link to get the video:

ftp://207.5.155.117:1500/xxxnt.WMV

[Grifter]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
The rpm bumper has to be the best part of the truck, a couple times i have driven into trees at speed only to bounce right off and keep going.

I agree. I put one on my Rustler and it made it practically Bullet Proof. It's an awesome Hop up and so cheap also. Cool video!

How many of you guys just bash your TripleX-NT's? Just curious.

Thanks!

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

I have an instruction sheet on brake screw setup that could be E-mailed (too many bytes to post).

I return to the forum at around 12:00GMT (6AM my time). What's your address?

[RandomGuy]

im jelous of your luck...my mach .15 runs fine but seems like everything else that can go wrong does hehe. Once i get it running for long enough ill get a kick arse video up here with huge air off something elevated :cool:

cool vid...but its taken a long time to load even with my cable lol. You usin your own server there? i host my vids on www.beatyourtruck.com (go to bashings and see the video labled Random Guy of my bros T-maxx :D ). Just submit the file and he puts em up there for free..up to 20MB.

grifter...hell yea i bash my XXX-NT..first day out right after break in i was hitten the skateboard ramp. How could you not! the thing flies! so easy to control in the air i love it! hehe a steep hill goin down into a baseball field at the park is next...ramp on top of the hill...ooooo yea(i know i know..and im complaining about my car being broken hehe)

[grimlock3000]

I have the video file hosted on a computer at my place with a static IP and a 32K/sec cable upstream. Usually it works fine, however I have been having issues with the connection this weekend. Last night I lost my connection entirely before I went to bed. Throughout today, I have been having some sites sporadically not loading at various times. My ISP always says "Everything is fine!" even when no one in town is online so I stopped calling them to ask questions.

My video looks far too weak compared to some of the vids on Beat Your Truck. I am downloading a couple now and they look like they should be impressive. I bought a bunch of spare parts, I suppose I could get to stepping it up and putting some sky beneath the truck ;)

[Grifter]

Originally posted by RandomGuy
grifter...hell yea i bash my XXX-NT..first day out right after break in i was hitten the skateboard ramp. How could you not! the thing flies! so easy to control in the air i love it!

Cool!

But I mean, do you only Bash with your Truck? Or do you race it also?

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- cool, hope it runs good for you. You got the idle problem solved? You havn't had a problem with your RPM bumper? The 3rd run after I got mine I broke a front bulkhead/kickplate. I had never broken one untill then. Maybe it was about to break and that just did it in.

Anyone on here using the Ofna/Picco Turbo 7 port? Im am seriously considering this except for 3 downsides. 1- the 6mm crank. Why would they do something so stupid? Everyone else uses 7mm but they had to use 6. Is there another clutch nut I can get for a 6mm crank? 2- I know that anything over 3 ports is illegal. But since the crankcase has only 3 ports is this a loophole?
3- Ive heard horror stories about picco carbs. I heard this is an easier to tune carb. Is this true. How much easier? As easy as a mugen or wasp carb? If not I have my CV-R slide carb I can put in. Is it the same size? The price is pretty high on it too. Where is the cheapest place I can get it?

Thanks for the help

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Got Speed
grimlock3000- cool, hope it runs good for you. You got the idle problem solved? You havn't had a problem with your RPM bumper? The 3rd run after I got mine I broke a front bulkhead/kickplate. I had never broken one untill then. Maybe it was about to break and that just did it in.

Anyone on here using the Ofna/Picco Turbo 7 port? Im am seriously considering this except for 3 downsides. 1- the 6mm crank. Why would they do something so stupid? Everyone else uses 7mm but they had to use 6. Is there another clutch nut I can get for a 6mm crank? 2- I know that anything over 3 ports is illegal. But since the crankcase has only 3 ports is this a loophole?
3- Ive heard horror stories about picco carbs. I heard this is an easier to tune carb. Is this true. How much easier? As easy as a mugen or wasp carb? If not I have my CV-R slide carb I can put in. Is it the same size? The price is pretty high on it too. Where is the cheapest place I can get it?

Thanks for the help

Oh, and how is it on fuel?

[grimlock3000]

got speed, i got the idle figured out to the point where it does not cause me any issues. i am still a bit too rich on the bottom end but the weather in maine has been varying up to 40 degrees within a single day and the rich settings has run ok when it was 30 outside and again when it was 65. i decided to leave it the way it is until the weather stabilizes so i am not constantly messing with the needles.

the rpm bumper went on with no issues and i never looked back. i really think i would have messed up a lot of pieces in the front end if it was not there. all my impacts with the bumper have been straight on hits, maybe it weakens the front when the impact is not head on.

[RandomGuy]

grifter

for now i just bash but nitro season starts in the summer at my local track :) cant wait they got indoor nitro off roading there woohoo

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Does anyone know if there's an aluminum bumper MADE for the xxxnt?

[cave]

dgrobe2112
right on! Thats a little unfair tho. Thats an Action shot:D
Nice paint job. Did you do it your self?
Got Speed Racing wwas fun tonight. I got fourth and finished tonight. I was in the B main The A main Guys were the usual FAST guys! The B had The other fast guys. There were 8 in the A main and 6 in the B main. I had a great time. I was in first place for two laps but I flipped on the tripple. This racing stuff is awsome. We met alot of cool people today. Tjracing had some problems. He got a new OS .12 cv and it does move. He did great till he broke. I just wanted to finish the race without replacing something Sunday.
See ya when you come out to SRS.

[fezzy]

FAO xxxOS12CVRnt

Thanks for your help, My E-Mail is ashtuk@blueyonder.co.uk

[spoonman]

f-yea i bash mine. there are no tracks around here, so i have no choice. i bought the xxx-nt b/c it looked like it needed no upgrading. it just needs a bumper(coming soon) and i'm having a blast. the mach has enough power for now and runs great.:)

[RandomGuy]

losiguy

theres only one company that makes aluminum parts for the xxx-nt ...at least from what ive seen. www.rctrix.com has them...they look pretty nice too :D expensive though

[winning edge designs]

Native racing makes some cool stuff for the XXX-NT, T-maxx and a few other things. They are available thru Superior hobbies or thru thier website. There is a link off the maxxtrax site.

Randomguy, two runs is a short life span, even for the older material, black compound gear? Most likely can be atributed to landing off curbs, etc under power on pavement/concrete type stuff, with the slipper very tight?...possibly. I ran my early pre-production gear for 3 race weekends before it gave in.

Gotspeed, the newer Picco carbs are much improved and are the same as those on the new Wasp engines i've been told..........Jim

[MikeWz]

Aluminum parts other than the trinity rear pivot block really aren't worth it. You'll just wind up breaking something else than. Some parts are designed to break easier than others so you break a cheaper/easier to fix part. The pivot block breaks easy, is inexpenisve but it's a PAIN to replace. The trinity one is the way to go.
Grimlock-nice video. I'm editing it as we speak. Will post it up when it's done.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Well I want to buy that $200 aluminum kit that rctrix has because I broke 2 of the parts that they have aluminum. Plus it makes my car look shinier :D My dad made me an aluminum bumper using the powerline tmaxx bumper and making his own mount, but the plate wasn't very strong. So I want a aluminum bumper thats actually made for the xxxnt :)

[tipper]

will a losi brake from a xxx-nt fit on a rc10gt

[spoonman]

the shaft on the pinion gear backs out when u use my new bump box. this makes the gear loosen and back out. also is this something that just came loose or a result of me taking the coil spring and the spool of string from the pull starter off? i put the cover and the spring in place on the pull start side too. i wanted to locktite the threads on the pinion shaft to hold this on, but wanted to run it by some of you first.

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- Good. When my bulk snapped it was from a time when it wedged into a pipe right after a tripple. The stock bumper wouldn't have broken it I don't think. You are using a rustler bumper too arn't you?

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt- No, but Ive seen several people at the track that have made their own.

cave- Cool, I'll be out there next saturday. lol, youve been racing like twice a week, I'm jealous :p I'm still hoping I will get my T-Maxx by then too. If so I'll try and race it out there. See you there. :)

WED- Really, that's great. Do you know about the legality of the 7 port sleeve and 3 port case? Is some sort of loophole? Probably, not but if it is a turbo plug is illegal right?

tipper- No it won't work. It is a different design.

spoonman- It deffinatly needs locitite. That thing will come off quite a bit without it.

Thanks

[Twist 2 Go]

What is needed, if anything, to be competitive with a AD edition xxxnt? Is is competitive out of the box? Or does it need a lot of upgrades? What shock oils and springs come with the kit? what others are needed? Thanks

[cave]

cave- Cool, I'll be out there next saturday. lol, youve been racing like twice a week, I'm jealous I'm still hoping I will get my T-Maxx by then too. If so I'll try and race it out there. See you there.
Yea Its been alot of fun. I got fourth last night. Nothing to brag about but for me It was great to finish. I was in first place for 3 laps till I flipped it on that right turn before the tripple. everone was yelling at the kid who didnt flip my losi over. I didnt even know I was in the lead LOL. I really like that charger Got Speed. It charges in like 15 minutes. I ran all night with that battery. See ya on race day.
I wish they made the ball studs longer. W.E.D. Is there a company that makes the titanium ball studs longer? My driving style eats em up. LOL.
cave:)

[cave]

What is needed, if anything, to be competitive with a AD edition xxxnt? Is is competitive out of the box? Or does it need a lot of upgrades? What shock oils and springs come with the kit? what others are needed? Thanks
A good tx radio, rx and servos. A Mugen, Wasp, RB concepts or OS CVR. All .12 race engines. Money for raceing, Spare parts like A arms, Pivot blocks, BALL STUDS, Tires n Tires n Tires w/ rims and somemore tires. Starter box ( Ofna Pink Monster box W/panel and glow igniter) Extra McCoy 59 Glow plugs. This is all for racing. Plus alot more things I havnt broke yet. :D
You dont have to get it all at once. I did mine alittle at a time.
cave:)

Got Speed Empty your mail box. LOL LOL LOL.:D

[Got Speed]

Twist 2 Go- Yes, it is competitive out of the box. It has just about everything you could want on it. A hop up or two may be needed depending on your driving style. I know Ive broken alot of rear ball studs but never a pivot block. Ive heard of others that are just the oposite. Drive find out what the weak spot is for your driving(all trucks will have one) and then just upgrade that part if it becomes a big problem. Really there are no flaws in it and is IMO the best or at least one of the best nitro trucks out there.

cave- Cool, I love it. I wouldn't give it up for anything, lol. Are you charging your batts at 3 amps? If so, you really shouldn't unless you want to buy new batts alot. I like to charge mine at 1 or 1.5 at a 20mv threshold. I only charge at 3 amps when I have to. LOL, I have deleted all of my messages but it still says inbox full. I don't know what is wrong. :confused:

[spoonman]

thanks got speed. i was hoping i could do that.

[gcoolt]

Hey cave I had the same problem as you, broked 4 ball studs in one night. So the guy at my LHS told me to buy some captured rod ends w/ 3mm screws. I havn't had a chance to try them yet though not till sunday. I will let you know how they do.

[pooldoc101]

GotSpeed- I saw a place that had that picco motor tor 170, it is winners circle r\c gas hobby shop, their in atlanta. Don't know of any cheaper, it had the right shaft and a rotary carb. They do have a website under that name. I've got a turbo RB coming, that makes 4 engines, wish I could stop buying those things!
Pooldoc

[Got Speed]

spoonman- NP

gcoolt- Same here. I broke 4 ball studs in one night too. Mostly the one on the rear tower behind the engine. I replaced it with the captured ends. I have been running it that way for the past 6 months without a problem.

pooldoc101- Yea, I was looking around on the internet and found a place for $170. Everyone else was at least $200. It has a slide carb, yet it says it has an extremely wide powerband. So Im still deciding between it and the Wasp.

[pooldoc101]

Gotspeed- the wasp is cheaper, and it's legal, I thought you could only have 3 ports to be legal. Might be a consiseration if you ever want to enter a big race, like the Cactus!

[tipper]

Originally posted by Got Speed


tipper- No it won't work. It is a different design.

Thanks


oh I was not sure I wanted the xxx-nt but it was way to much money so I got the rc10gt and I like that.

[RandomGuy]

thnx to the guy that gave me the tip to boil the tires off to unglue them. I tried it today and it worked great..boiled them for 15 minutes and they came off like they were stuck on with elmers glue :D no damage to the tire or rim.

[Casper]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
Gotspeed- the wasp is cheaper, and it's legal, I thought you could only have 3 ports to be legal. Might be a consiseration if you ever want to enter a big race, like the Cactus!

FYI the Cactus Classic is an electric only race but I think he got the idea.

[dgrobe2112]

Casper, where you been man?? aint been posting much lately.. racin or what??

[tjraceing]

got speed what car would you say for on road rtr is the best to buy. My buddy wants to buy one but i am not to familiar with street cars. Hobbytown told him the traxxas i believe 4tec what would you suggest?
Thanks

[Casper]

Busy doing other things. I have been racing electric again but am staying up with the gas thing.

[dgrobe2112]

tjracing.. the traxxas 4tec, rtr car is very fast, and nice car.. I personally think that the best all around RTR car to get for the price is the Associated NTC3.. imo.. but i saw that 4tec, and you cant beat something that fast out of the box.. but something with that much speed will prolly not be very good on the track..

[MikeWz]

Well, if he plans on racing at all, don't get the 4-tec. There's not really much you can do with it. It's on older design and as the saying goes "Technology wins" :D . If he's set on getting a RTR than go for the Nitro TC-3. If he wants to buy a kit, so he can put in his own engine/pipe/radio, and also know it's been done right and the best it can be, the Trinity Reflex is a great kit, and so is the Serpent 705. Highly recommend all of those cars. I personally run a Reflex and I love it. It handles SO good, and get some crazy top speed too.

[Casper]

Just a comment on the ti ball studs. Losi makes a long one .388 inches. Robinson makes some but they are not as long as the losi ones. TIR also makes titanium ball studs but I am not sure what there longest stud is. I like the losi ones. I have had really good luck with them.

[cave]

gcoolt, Got Speed has that set up. i raced a guy on Saturday night who had that set up. He had alot of problems. One capture even broke. this is one of the better drivers out there too. I dont mind changing broken ball studs. I just cant get to em easy. I caught em on a drill bit, two step process. I did get them out But If there is a machines that can make these titanium one's a full .5" or mabe even .625 that would solve My problem. Im really surprised that no one has done this yet. I shaved my tower down on the back side to get at the .388. Thats a smart legnth. Think of the money they make buy selling something that breaks off inside. I got mine out but what about that person who doesnt have the tools or dremel parts.
Someone out there might know of a different company that makes the longer size. Hardened steel or stainless

W.E.D. Do you know of any longer ball stud shafts?

BOB or getsideways, you guys are both Machinest. Help a brotha out:D Id even take a hardned steel. so long as they are easier to get out. I think if the shaft was a bit thicker say .125 They wouldnt breaks as fast.

Casper I keep breaking them on that tripple that leads to the high bank in scottsdale AZ. (SRS) Nice electric you got there!

Got Speed Why not a Mugen with a rotary? What about that fast RB concepts or Wasp? Your drivin could handle any of the above.

Sorry for the novel

cave:confused:

[Got Speed]

pooldoc101- It is just as serious of consideration as the ofna/picco. 3 ports is the limit. I don't think it matters if the crankcase is 3 ports or not though unfortuanatly. I think turbos are illegal too. If I get it, I plan on keeping my old engine so I can race legaly. I do plan on entering the gas regionals here this fall and plan on racing the nitro challenge in january 04. BTW: The Cactus Classic is an electric race. ;)

tipper- The XXXN-T really isn't much more than the GT RTR plus.

RandomGuy- The boiling never seemed to work well for me. It always seemed to fade the wheels, stunk, and didn't unglue the tires very well. How about for you? Maybe I didn't leave them in long enough. I have been putting mine in the oven at 250 for 15 minutes now and it seems to work fine.

tjraceing- Is he racing? Nitro or electric. Personally I would take the AE TC3 or NTC3 for either choice. For bashing I think he would be very pleased with the 4 tec especially with the 60 mph it puts out. But if he wants to race the TC3 is one of, if not the best 1/10 TC out there. The XXX-S is great also but I prefer the shaft driven TC3.

cave- I have never had a problem with my captured ends. I replaced them as soon as I started racing. Maybe my driving has improved enough so that I won't break them often, lol. If someone made longer TI ones I would definatly buy them since I don't have to be restricted to one camber link position. I thought about the Mugen but the Wasp seems to rev a little higher especially the rear exuast. Hopefully RCCA will dyno it before I want to buy one. The RB is real expensive, parts are hard to find and expensive, and the Ofna/Picco Turbo 7 port seems to rev higher and have more power. I don't know. I have 2 1/2 months to decide anyway. :D

[RCRACER2471]

hey guys i found some small pices of what it looks like silver or metal flakes on my transmission case. Everytime i clean the car it keeps coming back. Do u know what it could be???

Also my diff needs a rebuild what do i need for parts and what do u reccomend for grease???

[RandomGuy]

got speed after 15 minutes of boiling my wheels looked fine.. not that i wanted to keep them i was unglueing them cause they broke..the tires were in great condition and they peeled off beatifully. Got no smell too :D i heard with the oven you get smoke and smell...

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, your right, the 7 port sleeve is illegal as would be a turbo plug.......Not sure why, I know they say cost, but alot of guys are paying $100 to mod up an O.S. or Mugen 3 port anyway......Same as turbo plugs. Cost........Yet in electric new style batteries every 6 or 8 months is ok? haha......Jim

[MikeWz]

RCRACER-That's from the brake disc. Very normal and nothing to get worried about.

[jdm3849]

Will RPM Super Duty Ballcups (grey ones) screwed onto THESE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG25&P=7) riding on Robinson racing Titanium ballstuds be a good combination for my pretty much stock sport? Or will the sizes vary and not work as good as possible? If they are not correct please give a a better combo but as cheap as possible. (would still like gray ballcups)

[getsideways]

cave, you racing tomorrow? im going to try and make my debut if i can. maybe ill see you there with tjraceing. i dont want to be the only nitro truck out there. see ya.

[cave]

jdm3849

If you get that kit Make sure you get the long ball cups. The short ones dont stay on. It looks like a great combo kit. i paid the same for less. and you get the adjustment tool too. Killer deal

getsidways I'll be there w/ tjraceing. Good luck bro and Welcome. Yea I feel a group losi truck picture coming on. heheeheeheh :D
cave

[Got Speed]

RandomGuy- Weird. I used to do it that way but it faded my wheels, smelled, and didn't work very well. Then I tried the oven and had the same success you have with the boiling without any smell. LOL

WED- lol. Yea, some of these people buy their $200 rossis and then spend $100 on a porting job. :p Do you know how good the fuel economy is on this engine? I'll probably just end up with the off-road wasp. Just curious, why did you go with a side exuast?

getsideways- Will you be out there saturday? I'm will be. Maybe Ill see you out there?

cave- lol maybe we can get a pic saturday or some other time. Do you know who Bob got the mugen from on e b a y?

[cave]

Got Speed
Im at work right now but I'll get you the adress when I get home
I got it I'll Email it to you direct

[RandomGuy]

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/losi/front.htm#Arms
do these things work on the XXX-NT?? wat the heck is a XX? lol im preparing for when i break my A-arms doin some crazy jumps hehe if not where can i get some heavy duty good A-arms when i break the stock puny ones?

[Got Speed]

I am pretty sure those won't work. The XX is an old Losi 2wd Electric Buggy. If RPM makes arms for the XXXN-T they would be a good choice for jumping. They are pretty flexible so they don't break as easy. The stock arms aren't puny or weak it is just the way you crash it. RPM arms arn't good for the track though because of them being flexible.

[dgrobe2112]

No they will not work.. the XX is the older version of a Electric buggy.. they have since released the XXX, which is Losi's 1/10 scale electric buggy..

[RandomGuy]

question: is carbon fiber differant from graphite? if so what are the advantages/disadvantages of each of them. Thnx :)

[Casper]

RCRACER2471-- I use AE black grease for the thrust bearing and Kimbro silicon for the main diff gear. Losi and AE silicon greases all work great for the diff gear also but the AE black grease is the best for the thrust IMO.

[Casper]

On the tie rod ball cup issue. Lunsford makes a set of superduty tie rods for the RTR cars. These super duty rods are the same length as the stock tie rods. They also have another kit for the XXXN-T that require the use of the shorter RPM ball cups. IF you get the set for the RTR you can use the RTR call cups which are a lot stronger then the losi ball cups. Using the super duty tie rods and the RTR ball cups I have yet to pop off a tie rod. I have tried the captured things but they do not seem to hold up. I tried the rocket city ones and some HPI captured rod ends. I tried RPM ball cups but they pop off but do not bread. I tried the standard losi ball cups and they do not pop off but they break. With the Lunsford super duty tie rods and the RTR losi ball cups I do not need to worry about the cups popping off or breaking and the super duty rods are so big I have a hard time believing I can to any damage to those. I wish also that I could find longer ball studs also though. Using Losi titanium ball studs though I have hardly broke any of those so I have a pretty robust system.

[dgrobe2112]

Carbon fiber is stronger.. however, it has the same conductivity as graphite.. advantage.. lighter, and stiffer..

disadvantage.. expensive, conducts electic current..

[cave]

I must be pretty rough on my truck. Seems to me that there are alot of people out there who dont break the titainum ones like me.
Anyone out there know of longer say .5 0r 5/8" long shafts. you think losi would listen if I dropped an e mial requesting some longer ones. Losi already has the setup. Alittle thicker too say .125 (1/8") shaft. oh well
cave

[Casper]

I would talk with Hardcore racing. It seems like these would be the guys to do something like the. The losi ones are made by Lunsford for Losi. They should be able to do it also.</