LOSI XXX-4 Forum v2.0

[TheScum]

Originally posted by TheScum
Another request....

From where i'm from its pretty difficult to get the American standards for shock oil. Ours are rated on the Japanese System. As such, would it be possible to furnish me with the conversion rates (if any) between the two.


Thanks


had posed this to Todd Hodge of Team Losi and must say the man is a gem. Took the time to help, kudos mate.... Asked him for the equivalent of Team Mugen's 350 weightage and he said that this should be close to Team Losi's 35 watts.

did some further reading and turns out the oil weightages are defined using the same metrics (someone correct me if this is wrong).
Japanese brands tend to prefer representing this in milligrade, while their American counterparts prefer centrigrade (akin to centimeters and millimeters)

[Aluma]

well, I got the tires from my shop... The HT compound feels harder than the silver compound. And the gold compound about the same as the silver. guess nobody knows.

[End Overend]

Aluma,

Considering the track conditions you run on are soft and loamy the harder compound tires will probably work better.

General rule of thumb (though not always) with tires:

The softer the surface the harder the tire compound.
The harder the surface the softer the tire compound.

The reason for this is the softer the surface the more you want your treads to stay up right and dig into the ground. The harder the surface the more you want your tire to stick to the ground.

You can also check Losi's web site and look at their tire/surface recomendations. On this chart they also have the recomendations for different compounds of the same tire and how well they work.

[Aluma]

Yes, thank you, but I already know that, and I checked the losi site for the Gold and HT compounds...but they are not listed. I'm guessing they are very old tires that were in stock and never sold. I feel the HT harder, but that might not be the case...they might just be old and brittle...know what I mean? Thats why I was looking to see if anyone remembers what those compounds are supposed to be...hard or soft.

[Aluma]

oh yeah, I'm ordering the step pins too...just to try them out. The IFMARS have lots of pins, but they're rather small. on our track, the gas trucks/mod trucks with step pins get caked with mud most of the time...so smaller pins wont get much traction. But no one has done 4wd buggy, so I'll be "experiment" boy!!

[cabbynate]

Golds are harder than silvers. Never heard of the HT's.

[Ageamd]

I am thinking of buying a Losi XXX4. I will not use it for any type of sanctioned racing. Is there anything I need to know about this buggy such as durability and any type of upgrades.

The track will be run on either dirt or short grass. I will be bashing around with friends running 2WD stadium trucks with 19 turn motors.

Any help on this buggy will help. I am new to this.

[jkerr0043]

As much as I love this buggy, I don't think it's exactly a good "basher." A little on the expensive side for that IMO. I'd say save the money and go for a truck. It's going to be much more durable and save you some $$$.

[Aluma]

man I'm so mad right now... I installed a monster stock into the xxx-4 and geared it at 92/20...it was slower than my touring car so I reread the manual and it said 92/25 for stock motors and I figured...what the hey...so I went with 92/24 cuz I dont have a 25 on hand ....well, I'm playing around on the street for 3 minutes and find some smoke coming from the car! I was ...OH OH! I check it out...its the motor....the epoxy holding the wire together was melting. well there goes that. The esc I have can handle down to 15 turns(IPC digital) what y'all think I should get? a 15 turn or just a really nice 19Turn? Any recommedations for a good 19Turn motor, I've raced stock since I've started. This will be my venture into mod and frankly I dont want to rebuild motors every 4 or less races. I just want to keep up with 10Turn mod 2wd trucks.

[End Overend]

Aluma,

Sorry to hear about your motor. I've seen a few people struggle with gearing on the XXX-4 especially with stock class motors.

A 25 does sound too high as the top level guys were gearing their 10 turns 18/94. They are running theirs on the brink of meltdown so normally it would be more like a 16-17 tooth for most of us.

That would put a stock class more in the 21-22 tooth range, and since the monster stock likes to have a bit smaller pinion due to high RPM/low torque compared to other stockers. Also remember that 4wd ends up sucking up a lot more juice than 2wd so gearing down a little would be prudent.

If you were to stick with stock class I would suggest something more like the P2K2 or the P2k with the XXX-4 and gearing in the 21-22 tooth range. These motors put out better torque than the Monster Stock and would be a better choice for the XXX-4.

I know gearing wise I run my Novak with a 20/94 combination and it is generaly geared much like a stock class motor, just a tooth or two down from what stock class motors would be geared at.

As for wanting to stay up with ST's running 10 turn mods, well unless you are on a very loose track you are going to need something in the 10 turn range as well. The ST's will have slightly more top end than the XXX-4 due to less drivetrain friction, but won't stay up with it out of the corners or corner quite as fast.

Here I would suggest you get the fastest motor your ESC will work with, which would be a 15 turn motor. Something like a Reedy KR 14 turn would be your best bet with a mild mod, but your ESC probably won't handle the current draw.

If you are looking at less motor maintenance try the new Orion Revolution. Word is that they were getting 6-10 runs out of them before turning the comm at national/world events. This is the motor with the V style brush's and aluminum endbell. A mild version of this would probably allow rebuilds more in the 10-15 run range, say something in the 13-15 turn range.

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

this probably isnt the right place to post, but does anyone have a xxx4 or xx4 they are looking to sell or trade, i have a b4 and a mugen mbx4
thanks
ryan
my email is primuskicksyerass@yahoo.com

[Aluma]

Thanks End...one more thing, I was trying to set the slipper....I'd loosen it, and tighten it, but I couldnt see a difference. On aXXX-T you can hear it slip for the 1 to 2 feet its supposed to, but the XXX4 you cant.Is there a set process to doing it right? I did notice however that the brakes seem to change when messing with the slipper...well, it might have been the overgearing too. When I had the 20 tooth pinion the brakes would make the belt skip for a bit, but on the 24 tooth it wouldnt.

[End Overend]

Aluma,

I generally run my slipper pretty tight. The slipper is basically used for two reasons: Increased traction and Reduced stress on the drivetrain when landing off of jumps.

The first reason is almost a non issue with 4wd since you don't slide the rear end out nearly as much, and 4wd is such a big benifit in loose conditions.

As far as Jumping goes, I don't see it as important with the XXX-4 and belt drive. If you land with a big descrepancy between wheel speed and vehicle speed the belt will slip (just as it does when you brake hard), unless you have it set super tight. The only gear you really have a chance of damaging is the spur gear, but with the belt both slipping and having a bit of give, chances are it's not going to strip the spur gear.

This why I run mine tight.

I have tried loosening it up some and have actually had it loose enough that it would slip for 15-20 feet (it's audible if you know what you are listening for). That type of set up was pretty much useless as you might know.

Basically the way I set mine is to be able to just barely spin the slipper with my thumb when pressing down on the chassis (motor not installed or making contact with the spur gear). If I can do that then I know it's going to slip a little on awkward landings, but not slip on take off (at least very little).

The braking difference you noticed probably had a lot to do with gearing. The smaller pinion not only allows more torque on acceleration, but also more torque on braking. If it's overgeared it will make a difference when braking and it will slow down slower.

With all 4 wheels braking you notice things like that a lot more since they don't brake for a second then lock up on you like on 2wd (unless they are set very light) and the braking power is much greater on 4wd.

[Aluma]

well, I was supposed to race this weekend but couldn't make it. So I decided to go to the hobby store for a mod motor. All they had was a havoc 19T, I figured what the heck. unfortunately, Theres no gearing recommendation for it in the manual...I put it at 92/20 just to be safe cuz a 15T motor requires a 23T pinion.

[RustlerBoy]

Hey guys. I just bought a XXX4 on Sunday, and put it all together overnight. I have always been running a XXX or T3, and have a few questions about the XXX4.
1. Why does the tranny not spin as free as a 2 wd.
2. Why does it seem to go really slow????
3. Gearing for a 13 double
4. Will my rear rims for my XXX fit the XXX4?

[RustlerBoy]

One mroe question......

Where do I mount a transponder??? Any sweet ideas???

[cabbynate]

Your XXX rears will fit.
It is not as free as the XXX because of the belt.
Start with a 20-21 tooth pinion.
Are you saying the XXX-4 is slow? If so maybe you have it geared wrong.

[End Overend]

Aluma,

Your gearing actually sounds pretty close to correct for a 19T motor. I would go up to a 21 or maybe a 22 tooth pinion, but wouldn't go much beyond that with a 92 tooth spur.

RustlerBoy,

1. There is more friction in a 4wd drivetrain than in a 2wd. The belt requires tension to work properly which means a small amount of friction is introduced into the drivetrain. Then add in that you are spinning 4 wheels (2 more axles, 2 more bearings, 2 more outdrives, etc.) and you get even more friction. This also causes a small decrease in overall top speed when compared to a 2wd, but the acceleration is much greater due to the 4wd.

2. It could be going really slow for a number of reasons.

-You have the belt to tight, causing excessive drag in the drivetrain
-You could be undergeared
-If you are using an older motor it could need maintenance
-Your gear mesh might be to tight

3. For a 13T double, I would suggest starting out with an 17 tooth pinion and the stock 92 spur gear. Then work up from there paying attention to the amount of heat the motor and ESC have after a run. I would not go over a 19 tooth pinion with a 13 turn double. The worlds set ups were running 10T singles with an 18/94 gearing set up. If you move up to a 94 tooth spur I would say 19-20 would be in the proper range.

4. Yes, your XXX buggy rims will fit your XXX-4 on the rear. The front will probably fit, but you will want the XX-4/XXX-4 front rims since they are a little wider than the stock 2wd front rims. This allows for the wider front tires that are used on 4wd vehicles.

As far as a transponder, I would suggest you mount it on the steering servo or if you have space in front of the battery, I would mount it there.

[RustlerBoy]

Ok. Thanks guys!

[RcVet]

Hi, need some advice.

The pic says it all. The Hinge pin moves with the suspension arm, where as the manual say it shouldn't. There is nothing I can do to stop it from turning in there. It seems the front main block doesn't bind around the pin enough.

Any tips?

I seen somewhere, don't know where, someone used a set screw in the main block. Is this good?

Thanks in adavance.

PS, don't mind the spring and shock setup. It's a little funky. I just wanted so see the range of adjustement on the suspension.

[RustlerBoy]

Try grinding a flat on the hingepin where the set screw hits. That will fix it.

Jusyt got back form the track. Made the XXX4's maiden voyage. WOW! this thing breaks a ton! But other than that it is totally awsome! I have it set up with my Novak XXL, novak Gt7, Epic Binary sotck, and matched Trinity 2400's and this thing flies! I think this thing will put up better lap times than my XXX buggy!

[Hans]

Here are some painting templates. I wasn't sure where to post them. I hope someone can use them.

[End Overend]

RustlerBoy,

The stock XXX-4 has it's breakage problems, though Losi is supposed to have corrected the A-Arm and Shock Tower problems.

I really suggest a set of DPM A-Arms and G+ shock towers. DPM is also thinking about making shock towers, which given the performance of their A-Arms I really hope they do. The A-Arms are $25.00 for a pair and are super tough. I've had crashes bad enough to warp the front rim, break three G+ shock towers and bend a front shock shaft, with litle more than a scratch to the A-Arms.

I would also suggest upgrading to the aluminum hinge pivots supports. You can do one end at a time, but it's well worth the extra money.

With those upgrades my XXX-4 has become very reliable.

RcVet ,

Is the does the aluminum piece in that captures the hinge pin rotate with the suspension also? If so it's not a big deal, and my guess is that the it's just a tight fit between the A-Arm and the aliminum tube that captures the hinge pin. If the aluminum tube doesn't rotate then you are not getting the set screw tight enough to lock down the hinge pin.

The only time I've seen a set screw used in the hinge pin carriers when when they used the aluminum replacements that you can purchase. If you pick those up then it would be an easy upgrade.

[Hans]

top

[RustlerBoy]

I found out why my XXX4 was so slow. I bought a novak Gt7 t the NW RC show. It was all set up for the guys Tx that i nbought it from, so one of the guys helped me reset it to my Tx and buggy. WOW, super ballistic. I am u8st glad i hadnt bought a fred speedo

[wcoyote_racer]

As far as freeing up the tranny, try the new belt kit for the XXX-4. It runs about $20. It includes a longer belt and there is not as much drag where the belt kinks over the main pulley. About your hinge pin sliding or turning. This also sometimes happens because of a bent pin, make sure to check that out. The plastic holders also develop some slop (rounding out of the pins' hole mounts) over time as the plastic wears. That is why I've seen most people go with the aluminum versions. Nevermind they are more durable in crashes.

[silver wolf]

Any suggestions on a pinion for a venom 15 T double and a 92 spur?

[Aluma]

hey guys, if I get the 94tooth spur will I get more top end speed?

[End Overend]

Aluma,

Going up 2 teeth on the spur gear would be like droping 1/2 a tooth on the pinion (more torque/acceleration & lower top end).

Silver Wolf,

I would suggest starting with a 20 tooth pinion. Depending on motor and ESC heat gear up or down from there. More heat, go smaller pinion, less heat go up a pinion.

[masshybrid]

I would suggest somewhere around a 15-18t pinion for a 15t motor. I run on a tight indoor track and I run a 16 with the Novak brushless.

[Losidude63]

Hate to be the one to change the subject, but earlier i posted a question about an odd clicking noise coming from somewhere in the belt channel, and some people posted replys telling to dissasemble the drive train and remove dirt and to mabey replace the pinion. I've done everything except for the pinon, because the click doesn't match the pinon RPM. I've talked to a pro at my hobby shop about the sound (he used to own one) and one person said it was normal sound that comes from a diff in the xx4.
I'm going crazy, and losing speed from the "click" PLease help....

[jkerr0043]

Actually it sounds like the belt is skipping. It's kind of inherant in this car. Does it do it nuder hard acceleration and braking mostly?

[Losidude63]

No, it pretty much does it all the time. I ran it yesterday, ran really fast, adn the sound wasn't as bad, but it still was there. Adn i must have done something bad to my set up because the car wqas slipping all over the place. I've checked belt tention, everything runs perfectly smooth. I know this is the wrong forum for this question, but i just installed new brushes in my motor about a month ago, and i've run the car about 6 times, and the brushes are worn down to little stubs again

[jkerr0043]

What motor and brushes are they?

[Losidude63]

i'm not sure about the brushes exactly but they are trinity's, and the motor is a Trinity SpeedGems amber 16 Turn.

[jkerr0043]

Modified motors go through brushes like crazy. Also, if you didn't true the comm when you changed the brushes, that will add to their wear. If the comm is not true, that can case brush bouce and case a lot of arcing. That's what burns brushes. You should true the comm and change brushes on a mod motor that mold probably every 5-7 runs for top performance. It will also make the motor last longer because you won't have to cut so much off the comm when you finally get around to it.

[Losidude63]

ok.....but any sugestions about the sound? Are the diffs in the xxx-4 the same as those in the xx-4?

and i don't know about the comm thing...i'll have to check it out but i'm pretty sure that the guys at my local hobbies store don't have a comm lathe.

[jkerr0043]

If they don't have one, I've gotta suggest you invest in one. It's the single most important investment an electric racer can make. You'll save yourself a ton of money in the long run because your motors will last longer and you won't have to pay for them to be trued everytime you need it. You'll also be faster beacuse you'll have a "new" motor every time you rebuild. I'm not sure if the diffs are the same as the older car but I know Losi has not really changed a lot in their diff design in years.

[Losidude63]

well, i'll see what i can do about the lathe, i'm on a VERY limlited buget, but thanks for your help.

[masshybrid]

Originally posted by Losidude63
Hate to be the one to change the subject, but earlier i posted a question about an odd clicking noise coming from somewhere in the belt channel, and some people posted replys telling to dissasemble the drive train and remove dirt and to mabey replace the pinion. I've done everything except for the pinon, because the click doesn't match the pinon RPM. I've talked to a pro at my hobby shop about the sound (he used to own one) and one person said it was normal sound that comes from a diff in the xx4.
I'm going crazy, and losing speed from the "click" PLease help....

Is everything lined up correctly in the drive train? There is a small spacer on the right hand side of the slipper ( looking from the top, with the rear of the car near you.)

1. Remover both diff covers.
2. Remove clear slipper cover.
3. Make sure the belt tension is properly set ( I set mine so it moves up and down approx. 1/8 in.)
4. Spin the rear diff with both hands and watch the belt near the slipper, as well as the front diff.

The belt, if not properly lined up, may want to jump off.

Also, check your bearings. They may be toast.

Make sure nothing is rubbing the belt ( pinion gear may hit it depending on motor.)

If you have a manual, dissassemble the entire car, and start over.

Good luck.

[microrcdude]

sounds like you need a new spur and pinion gear.

[Aluma]

on another note...YAAY!! i went racing!! YAAAY!!

I was whoopin on 10Turn mod trucks, buggies with my 19T...LOL!
well, until I flipped over on a jump and landed on the rear shock tower, which snapped into 3 pieces....of course I didnt know this until I finished the race in second. :D Oh yeah, with kit settings, I noticed that every time I hit certain potholes on the straightaway , the rear end would just shoot up into the air! any ideas on how to fix this? softer springs? it was understeering abit, but I think it needs a little more camber up front and batts moved forward.

[jkerr0043]

Softer springs all around was the first thing I did. Also took off the sway bar. Sway bars are more for bluegrooved tracks.

[Aluma]

well, I'll order some softer springs then... and since I dont have the sways anyway...no problem there....

now check this out...here are the front studs tires after the run. notice they are caked with dirt/mud. at least I know that there was some traction.

[Aluma]

here are the rear tires... Ifmar pins HT compound...completely caked barely any pins protruding. I hope the 2.0 step pins dont get this badly caked.

[Aluma]

just for giggles...here's the track conditions...muddy hard packed in some areas, bumpy like you wouldn't believe and really loose in other areas....gotta love it! :D 150ft back straight, all types of sections, fast!

[jkerr0043]

Driving on a track with vary different surface conditions accross the track makes not only setup difficult but tire choice can be very hard. I have a bit of the same situation. There are sections where you really should be running step pins but others where taper pins hook up really well. I've found that IFMAR Studs work realy well for that. They're taller than the IFMAR pin so you get some better grip in the loose stuff and have a little more open area so they don't load up as bad. But at the same time, they're not a big giant step pin that's going to wear down right away on the harder stuff.

[Toiffel]

OK, this is my problem. I'm running a 12 quad Evo 3, stock spur 92 teeth, I've tried 21, 19, and 17, and both motor and batteries finish extremely hot, hot enough to melt the solder on the motor connections and shoe goo holding the batteries. I run the belt a little lose (1/4 inch) slipper tight. Track has tight sections.
What pinion gear should I use??? Should I go smaller??? What am I doing wrong???
Any help much appreciated.

[jkerr0043]

Your 19 to 17 pinions don't sount bad. 21 may be high but the smaller ones you shouldn't be getting that hot. I'd discount the gearing. When was the last time the motor was rebuilt? I'm not familiar with that motor. Dose it have adjustable timing? Check that you're not timed too high. I'd say stay around 18 -22 deg advanced on the timing.

[masshybrid]

I would suggest going to a lower pinion, maybe 13-17t. I am running a brushless, and even on big tracks I don't go higher than a 20t pinion. Remember, this is a 4wd car and it has a lot more traction and drag in the drivetrain, so no matter what motor/pinion combo you run, it will always be higher in temps than if it was in a 2wd.

[Toiffel]

Thanks for the help guys, I went back and checked the timing, and it was set too high, this weekend I should have better temps and performanece, it was getting too hot to handle.
Gonna try the 17 and work from there.

[low10s]

Hey fellas, i race nitro truck, but i have been looking at the xxx-4 graphite. if someone could give me some advice, like how durable is it, and things i might need to know. i will be putting a brushless(novak) in it also. i seen the mod class race this weekend and i really enjoyed it. thanks

[masshybrid]

Nice car, but fragile. Stock up on spare parts( front arms, shock towers, hinge pins, steering knuckles). Make sure you get the aluminum pivot blocks and aluminum hinge pin brace for the front, these are a necessity.

I have the brushless in my xxx4 also and it is fast, in fact too fast. Probably why the cars breaks so often.

Depending on the track you race on , you might want to invest in a front one-way diff.

Seal the belt cover with Shoe goo, seal everything else with any type of grease. This will keep out the dirt that would eventually ruin the diffs.

One of the things I like about the car is, even after months of racing everything still feels tight.

Any other questions, feel free to ask them.

Good luck.

[low10s]

Thanks, i will be getting the g+ so it should last a little bit, i have a gentle throttle ginger. about the diffs, i really dont know what a one way is, or how the diffs are in this car. i will take heed to what you said. ;)

[Dingus]

I'd have to say stay away from the one-way at first. That could get expensive during the learning curve of the car.

Just to clarify, don't seal the top belt belt cover, just the one on the bottom.

And, oh yeah, shameless plug, buy a pair of my arms.

www.dpmracing.com

[End Overend]

I will totally second the DPM A-Arms. I've got a set that have been severly tested and they barely even have a scratch on them. They are absolutely awesome.

As far as the durability of the car since you are going with the G+ all you need are DPM A-Arms and Aluminum Hinge Pin holders. With those added the XXX-4 is extreemly durable.

I'm running a Novak Super Sport in mine (as many people do with the XXX-4) and it's quite fast. I've had many, many crashes, one that warped a front wheel, two that broke front G+ shock towers and one that broke a rear G+ shock tower. Considering I put approximately 40-45 packs a month through mine, that's not to bad for the past 3-4 months.

In all reality any longer all I break are drive pins and the connecting pins for the MIP CVD's.

Dingus,

How about those shock towers you are thinking about? :D

[low10s]

thanks for the advice. i will look into those arms they looked nice on his sight. later

[Dingus]

Unfortunately, still in the thinking stage. I just moved to AZ, so once I get settled, might move into the action stage...

We'll see.

dennis

[offroader]

Anybody know where I can purchase or have a part number for Team Losi 5 spoke wheels for my xxx4 buggy?

Thanks

[masshybrid]

You could check the Losi website for the wheels. I'm not sure of your experience in r/c, but spoked wheels don't last quite as long as solid wheels do in crashes.

[offroader]

I checked the web site and I couldn't seem to find them. And yes I know they don't last as long...but I'm so sick of those UGLY dish wheels!! I'd like my buggy to look good! :D

[Aluma]

so I'm building my new G+ yesterday and I notice that the normal XXX-4 I had received as a trade was ALL messed up as far as parts go... the rear arms were switced, so were the C hub holders, the steering arms were on the wrong holes, there were spacers where there shouldn't be any...etc... I changed everything back to G+ standard. MAYBE that'll help me run better at the track.

[jkerr0043]

Some guys are running the rear arms flipped to change handling to meet their needs. Also shims are used on steering links and camber links to adust bump steer and roll center. These may have been setup changes that the person you got the car from had made. The car may not have felt right because it didn't suit your driving style.

[Aluma]

yeah, I know...but it just seems funny to me to run the C-hub holders backwards to reduce caster to vertical. Anyway...no luck. I finished the G+ exactly like it says in the manual and ran it around outside. It still does the same thing the original version was doing(throws the rear end way up on any small bumps)....except the G+ turns alot better. I wish those springs I ordered come in soon...those pink rears are way too hard. Oh yeah, I found a setup from Losi for rough terrain with softer springs and other minor changes...but what I thought was weird was that they are using 35wt oil all around with the softer springs....where as the original harder springs call for 30wt all around.

[jkerr0043]

A heavier oil and softer spring combo will give you a much slower rebound. The rear end bouncing around like you're describing is too fast of a rebound. By going heavier on the oil and softer on the spring, you have less spring to reboud heavier dampening. This will slow down the reaction of the rear end down quite a bit.

[RustlerBoy]

Sup. I just got a whloe new electroincs set up for my buggy. I work at my local hobby shop so i get ppl trying to sell stuff. I bought a brand new lrp Quantum Comp for 80 bucks, a new Trinity Epic stock for 15 bucks, and a brand new Futaba 3PK for 250 bucks! mY BUGGY RUNS SO GOOD now. I love the radio... oh my gosh

[Aluma]

hey, where can I get carbon fiber shock tower braces for the XXX-4?

[AllenJO]

Team PRP:

http://home.attbi.com/~teamprp/xxx4.html

[Dingus]

The carbon shock tower braces were discontinued after the new chassis and towers were released by Losi.

Darn shame IMHO

[rschwartz]

I have designed a new part for the front of the xxx-4, it is a diff and a one way combo what this does for you is makes the car easier to drive through the corners with the same acceleration as the losi one-way unit. It has been through alot of testing and performance and durability is great. Here are pictures of the prototype part. The final production part will be done at the end of the week, so I will have pictures of that this weekend.
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272/2002584/3874720/47756769.jpg
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272/2002584/3874720/47756052.jpg

This unit can either be used for the xxx-4 or the xxx-s you can if you deside you want to go back to the normal one-way you can take out the diff balls and put spool pads in.

Any ?'s you have you can leave them here or e-mail me at rschwartz@nutone.com

[orbitron]

Hello all!
I'm interested in getting into 4WD electric and I have a few questions about your buggys.
1. Is there any other 4WD buggys out there?
2. Any with shaft drive?
3. Is it possible to even buy a non G+?
4. What size motor is the most common? I'm thinking about getting a 17-19.

I thank you for your time and consideration.

[jkerr0043]

1. Yokomo and Schumacher make them. There are also a few other out there that aren't very common. But most guys on this board would agree, go with the Losi.

2. The Durrango is a shaft drive as well as the BJ4 ro B4J (can't remember what one it is) car. It's a Hybrid of custom parts, TC3 Drive train, and B4 suspension.

3. You probably won't want to get one of the original cars. They have durrability problems and you'll end up buying the optional parts to upgrade it anyways and spending more money.

4. Depends on track layout and driving skill. Small layouts, I've liked to run a good 19 turn. I run and 11X2 and 12X2 most of the time in mine but if you're learning to drive, I'd stick to 19 turn. I personally think a stock motor in a 4wd car is a waste of time.

[orbitron]

Thanks

[BlackWolf]

Originally posted by rschwartz
I have designed a new part for the front of the xxx-4, it is a diff and a one way combo what this does for you is makes the car easier to drive through the corners with the same acceleration as the losi one-way unit. It has been through alot of testing and performance and durability is great. Here are pictures of the prototype part. The final production part will be done at the end of the week, so I will have pictures of that this weekend.
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272/2002584/3874720/47756769.jpg
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272/2002584/3874720/47756052.jpg

This unit can either be used for the xxx-4 or the xxx-s you can if you deside you want to go back to the normal one-way you can take out the diff balls and put spool pads in.

Any ?'s you have you can leave them here or e-mail me at rschwartz@nutone.com

Even the Losi engineers can agree that the OE one-ways for the XXX4/S are WEAK. Losi has no plans to address the situation either, bummer...

I am planning on giving your new unit a try. When will you have it for sale? Do you have a website with some more info?

[BlackWolf]

Originally posted by Aluma
...but what I thought was weird was that they are using 35wt oil all around with the softer springs....where as the original harder springs call for 30wt all around.

The oil that comes with the G+ is 30wt. Isn't it?

[rschwartz]

The final production of the one-way diff combo
Here are the latest pictures of the final production version of the new one-way diff combo for the xxx-4 and the xxx-s.
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272...20/48157095.jpg
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272...20/48157089.jpg

[orbitron]

So after doing a little research... I have some more questions.
1. Does the competition racer have threaded shock bodies?
2. Do you think the difference between the competition racer and the G+ is worth $50 (american) $80 Canadian.

Thanks in advance.

[Ooopps]

Orbitron, in a word YES!! I bought an original xxx-4 (before the G+ was out) and have spent 3 times the amount of money upgrading it as things break.

Essential Upgrades
1. G+ Shock towers
2. DPM or the new G+ arms.
3. Aluminum Pivots front and rear.

Just those three things add up the difference between the G+ and the original. Plus with G+ you get threaded bodies and host of other graphite goodies not found on the competion racer.

Also for the person who is having problems with the rear springing up, put thicker oil in the shocks, 35wt. The problem is that you chassis is bottoming out, causing the rear end to rebound off the ground/jump causing it to kick.

[cabbynate]

rschwartz,
Can't see your photo's. Please let us know when you are going to start selling them.
Will you put them on e-bay? Also let us know the cost.
Thanks.

[rschwartz]

Sorry about the pictures here is a couple of more.

http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272/2002584/3874720/48157095.jpg
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL272/2002584/3874720/48157089.jpg

For any ? about price and availibility and what is included just drop me a line at rms1776@fuse.net

[LAKER Custom]

Hi everyone. Got my xxx-4 on Thurs. and ran it the first time this morning. Then spent two hours reading this whole thread.
I am trying to put my Novak BL in this car and have a couple of questions for those who are running this setup.

Where do you place the power capacitor?
Where are you placing the on/off switch?
Also, are you guys shortening the motor wires or just laying them over the gear cover?

Thanks for your help.

[End Overend]

LAKER Custom,

You can place a piece of double sided tape on the capacitor and tape it to the center section, or you can use some zip ties and attatch it to the motor wires.

For the on/off switch I drill a small hole on the side of the chassis. I then run a small screw through the hole in the chassis and on the on/off switch and use a small nut to hold it to the chassis. This gives a very secure mounting for the on/off switch and it's easy to reach as well.

I have shortened my wires to make for better mounting under the body. When I get my warranty repair (or new motor/esc) I'll probably keep my wires longer incase I want to switch to another vehicle. Leaving them long gives more long term flexibility.

Hope this helps some

[LAKER Custom]

End Overend

Thanks for the help. This is my first 4wd buggy. After running my B4 and T3 for so long, this thing feels heavy and solid like a tank, but it turns on a dime. I'm real anxious to take it over a jump for the first time.

Are there any front street tires that fit the xxx-4 g+?

[End Overend]

I've seen some Proline Road Hawgs (or something like that) that should fit. They are actually made for regular buggies, but they are pretty wide and should work well with the XXX-4.

[XR Mugen]

In response to the questions about the Pro-Line tires, I have had great success with the Dirt Hawgs just for playing around. They are durable and they look pretty good as well...

End Overend, and anyone else, does your Novak system "cog" slightly when going at very low speeds in reverse ? Going forward, mine is very smooth but when I just give it a little throttle in reverse, it goes backwards but makes a clunking noise as it does so. As soon as I give it more throttle, it clears up....

Thanks

[End Overend]

XR Mugen,

The only time I've noticed it was with my latest motor/esc combo. I found reverse to be hard to engage with some good cogging at lower throttle levels. I also had problems with it going into thermal shut down, and it was hard to program.

So I sent it in for warranty repair last week. I would assume with those problems there was something wrong with the ESC. If you are having similar problems with yours you may want to contact Novak and see what they say.

[PuppyChow]

I'd like to ask any experienced XXX4 racers out there some questions about the different pivot blocks that can be used on the XXX4.

I am running the stock setup 7.5 degree pivot block on the front, and the 3 degree block in the rear.

I've read what Losi wrote in the manual about the use of different blocks, but I would like some clarification. What will changing the angles (using different blocks) do for handling? I know there is no real 'best' setting, but I would like to know how changing the angles will affect handling (jumping, turning, etc.)

I run on a track where everybody prefers worn out tires; slicks. The track is very moist, and has incredible traction. You can't spin the tires with 4WD.

Any and all information will be appreciated. Thanks :)

[cabbynate]

I'd like to ask any experienced XXX4 racers out there some questions about the different pivot blocks that can be used on the XXX4.

I am running the stock setup 7.5 degree pivot block on the front, and the 3 degree block in the rear.

I've read what Losi wrote in the manual about the use of different blocks, but I would like some clarification. What will changing the angles (using different blocks) do for handling? I know there is no real 'best' setting, but I would like to know how changing the angles will affect handling (jumping, turning, etc.)

I run on a track where everybody prefers worn out tires; slicks. The track is very moist, and has incredible traction. You can't spin the tires with 4WD.

Any and all information will be appreciated. Thanks :)

I wish I had your track in my town!!!!!
To help out with your questions, 7.5 kick up seems to be the best all around set up for the front. The more kick up you run the less chance you will break front arms from front impacts. The less kick up the better the buggy will go through bumps but it is easier to break front arms.

The rear anti-squat is a different thing all together. Your track sound smooth so I would stay with 3 dg. The less anti-squat the better the rear end will go through bumps having more traction.-1dg will really make your rear end stick to the ground under acceleration. It might be best for really bumpy tracks with low traction. I run 7.5 up front and 1dg out back.
I hope this helps. ;)

[AznJunkie]

I have a quick question regarding the front CVD. I have a non G+ XXX-4. I bent one of the front CVD. I want to know if I can replace the front steel bone with the aluminum bone.

[cabbynate]

Yea just get two so they match. ;)

[AznJunkie]

Cool thanks for the quick reply.

[RcVet]

Took out the XXX-4 for its maiden run yesterday. Wow! :eek: It's quite fast with a 19 turn Cham Pro, a 19 tooth pinion and a very old 1200mha battery. I can't imagine a 10 or 12 turn in there. I only ran it for 1 minute, turns out I messed up a front tire when gluing and it wasn't apperent till I ran it. The tire is serverly out of balance. But WOW, now i know what everybody it talking about. Seems to push the corners, but it's all about suspension setup now. Once I fix my tires and slap in my newer batteries, I should get a better feel for the car. Can't wait to race it. :D

RcVet.

[IBEXrax]

I read through this thread and you know . . it sure is boring with all the Wows and Greats and too fast talk. You’d think that this little buggy was really something special.

Well here is my story and I have to apologize from the start for another “Wow! This buggy is great.”

All year long I have been qualifying my XXXNT and MBX5 into the lowest mains in all the local races I have entered. But last weekend I ran the XXX4G+ in its first big race (180 entries). I did break a spindle and C-clip during practice. But, sounds like that’s normal for a 4G+. The wow part came during the third round when I took over TQ on my last run. I was top qualifier for about seven minutes until I was bumped down to second. Later it was the first time I ever ran in a triple A main. Of course with my lack of close racing experience, I was hacked to the back in all three runs. But I’ll tell you, that Novac Brushless was like a rocket with an 18T gear. Box Stock set-up; M3 Hole Shots all around; packed wet clay. Wow! What a pleasure to drive; Handles like a dream = Another boring post. :D

[Bathy]

Am i right in thinking there are no place to upload images on this site? oh well, I have just put some images of my XXX-4 on this site, don't mean to link to a different place but no choice it seems...

My xxx-4 images: http://www.bannedrc.com/forum/album_cat.php?cat_id=

[AznJunkie]

Hey peeps, I need to get a new front diff cover. I have the non G+ XXX-4 and I was wondering if I should get the standard diff cover or should I shell out the money for the graphite diff cover. TIA!

AznJunkie

[microrcdude]

i dont see the advantage of running a graphite one. I'd stick with the standard one.

[PuppyChow]

Does anybody make some firm foams for 4WD fronts? I'm told to cut the rears in half to make them fit in front. What a pain without a hot wire foam cutter :(
Any suggestions?

[PuppyChow]

Hey peeps, I need to get a new front diff cover. I have the non G+ XXX-4 and I was wondering if I should get the standard diff cover or should I shell out the money for the graphite diff cover. TIA!

AznJunkie

I broke the front diff cover in a nasty crash when I was schmucked by a 1/8 buggy (those gas guys don't care..) I didn't know it was broke untill I had a chance to replace the 1-way. It just crumbled as soon as I removed the screws. Now, I COULDN'T immagine how weak the 'stiffzel' plastic part would be on the regular 4. Do yourself a favor and get the graphite ones, you get a front and a rear one in the pack. What are they, like 10.00 dollars?

[BlackWolf]

I just picked up some red anodized aluminum bellcranks for my 4G+ (PN # DYN6805). They have a bit less flex than the factory part, and there is less annular play.
I also got the anodized (red again) motor mount clamp (cant find PN, in trash :( ). It's got a nice heatsink on it with some thin fins and good surface area. It keeps the brushless or the 7x1 motor a little bit cooler. Both go for about 26 USD. Well worth it.
I'm now looking for an aluminum drag link to complete the steering system. I replaced the stock junk servo saver with a kimbrough mid sized unit. I was sure to get the one without the holes drilled (PN #200) in it because when you trim it to fit well and look nice in the 4, it will keep it's strength. Steering is much more precise now!

[cabbynate]

Does anybody make some firm foams for 4WD fronts? I'm told to cut the rears in half to make them fit in front. What a pain without a hot wire foam cutter :(
Any suggestions?

I use buggy rear foams in the front. Just trim them on the inside where they make contact with the rim and stuff them in. Smooth them out and mount them. They work great and fill the front tires real nice. I did it with Blockheads and taper-pins.

[BlackWolf]

I use buggy rear foams in the front. Just trim them on the inside where they make contact with the rim and stuff them in. Smooth them out and mount them. They work great and fill the front tires real nice. I did it with Blockheads and taper-pins.

Allright, I guess I have no choice.

Those blockheads work awsome, maybe a little too awsome. By far, my favorite for a moist, hard, medium to high traction track. (Where slicks are best when the track is wet; the blockheads go on when it starts to dry out)

[OmegaTrac]

Hey,
Are any of you guys here running the Novak Brushless? I currently have an Orion 12x2 in my XXX4 and would like to go brushless. How does the car run with the brushless setup?

One more question, how do you check the diffs to make sure they are setup correctly?

Thanks

[ViperStrike]

Does anyone know where I can buy tries and wheels?
I just got a XXX-4 and the stock tries are horrible for my track.
(very loose)

[jkerr0043]

Stormer usually has anything I need for that car. www.stormerhobbies.com

[ViperStrike]

Thanks.

I find that site difficult to navigate.
plus I can't find tires for the XXX-4 on there.

Any others?

[jkerr0043]

The best way I've found to use their site is to look on the manufacturer's site to get their part number and go to the search on Stormers site and put it in under pert number. What tire's are you looking for?

[ViperStrike]

That's a good tip thanks.

I'm looking for front and rear IFMAR Pins (or studs)

[Keemos]

Thanks.

I find that site difficult to navigate.
plus I can't find tires for the XXX-4 on there.

Any others?

The tires included in the kit are for running on hard-packed clay (Blue Grove)… for your track, try running Losi IFMAR Studs front (Part# LOS283S (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS7283S) ) and back (Part# LOS7364R (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS7364R) ). You can also try Horizon Hobby for parts… Part#:LOSA7364R (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA7364R) (Rear) and LOSA7283S (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA7283S) (Front).

[ViperStrike]

Awesome!
now I just need to find wheels.
the part number trick did not work.
I'll find em ;-)

Thanks for all the help.

[ViperStrike]

Found em ;-)

[ViperStrike]

Do XX-4 front rims fit the XXX-4?

Also do XXX rear rims fit the XXX-4 ?

Thanks

[Keemos]

the xx-4 front rims will NOT fit the xxx-4... but the xxx rear rims will fit.

[tarvymoto]

as far as I know xx4 rims do fit.

[tophite]

Anybody know of an online place to order custom painted bodies for the XXX-4?

[cabbynate]

How many of you use the one-way? I do but is seems the guys at the track I run on like the diff more? :confused:

[cabbynate]

Anybody know of an online place to order custom painted bodies for the XXX-4?

Try www.skipgear.com. they do some really good work and have a photo gallery to look at and see some of it. Also try www.jconcepts.net. They do really nice work as well.

[tophite]

Thanks for the advice. Will the phobia body fit on the xxx-4????

[cabbynate]

No. I think the Phobia is for the XXX buggy.

[AussieSam]

Hi,

Does anybody use the Trinity outdrive savers with their XXX-4 in modified racing, I have a 11x2 Orion Revolution motor. I have trouble with the outdrive savers slipping around the outdrive and binding the suspension.

Which is the correct way to insert the outdrive saver?

Cheers,
Sam.

[MTkid7]

Can some one tell me teh truth.. thinking bout gettin a xxx-4... does it break alot?? now i dont race... again will it break more cuz i wont be racing it like it supposd to??

[cabbynate]

Hi,

Does anybody use the Trinity outdrive savers with their XXX-4 in modified racing, I have a 11x2 Orion Revolution motor. I have trouble with the outdrive savers slipping around the outdrive and binding the suspension.

Which is the correct way to insert the outdrive saver?

Cheers,
Sam.

If you can get them on and they are slipping around than you can use a drop of CA glue to hold them in place. I don't use them on my XXX-4 but I do use them on my XXX-T.

[cabbynate]

Can some one tell me teh truth.. thinking bout gettin a xxx-4... does it break alot?? now i dont race... again will it break more cuz i wont be racing it like it supposd to??

If you are not going to race it than you might be better off getting something ealse. Maybe a XXX-T.

[samcook]

got this from my lhs for £75 rolling chassis oh crap wrong forum sorry :rolleyes:

[silver wolf]

hey samcook that is a xxx-s not a xxx-4

[samcook]

sorry i thoght i wasd in the xxx-s part.i did edit and say it was in the wrong part :rolleyes:

[echo0587]

what up
tight a$$ forum you guy have
got a question about the tires. My local track is hard (dirt and clay mixed) and they wet the track every 2 hours or so and when i run on it, the tires get caked. im running the tires that came with the kit. what would be the best tires, because i was thinking about the IFMAR or the holeshot which ever would one because they would be better than the one i got now. or some tires that are even better than those two. any help would be greatly Appreciated thanxs

[ViperStrike]

You should try IFMAR Pins or Studs.
I run the studs and they work well.

I have a question about reversing the rear arms.
I have the original XXX-4 and I want to mount my shocks on the rear. from what I heard you are supposed to swap rear arms. Honestly I looked at the arms and they look exactly the same to me. can I just mount my shocks on the back of the tower and use the holes in the back of the arms?
So I need to do anything else? I already ordered an Aurora body. do I need the FG Rear tower?

Thanks

[cabbynate]

You should try IFMAR Pins or Studs.
I run the studs and they work well.

I have a question about reversing the rear arms.
I have the original XXX-4 and I want to mount my shocks on the rear. from what I heard you are supposed to swap rear arms. Honestly I looked at the arms and they look exactly the same to me. can I just mount my shocks on the back of the tower and use the holes in the back of the arms?
So I need to do anything else? I already ordered an Aurora body. do I need the FG Rear tower?

Thanks

You can just mount the shocks on the rear of the arms. You don't need to switch them. You will have to get the FG shock towers. They hold up so much better than the molded ones anyway and you will need to get a few other things too. Shock shafts, spacers. ect... The info is in with the FG towers.

[cabbynate]

what up
tight a$$ forum you guy have
got a question about the tires. My local track is hard (dirt and clay mixed) and they wet the track every 2 hours or so and when i run on it, the tires get caked. im running the tires that came with the kit. what would be the best tires, because i was thinking about the IFMAR or the holeshot which ever would one because they would be better than the one i got now. or some tires that are even better than those two. any help would be greatly Appreciated thanxs

I would stick with the taper-pins up front (silver) and maybe try X-2000's (red) in the rear. If you can try to let the track dry sum before you run on it.
(I hate wet tracks :mad: ) Damp is good though. ;)

[cabbynate]

I would stick with the taper-pins up front (silver) and maybe try X-2000's (red) in the rear. If you can try to let the track dry sum before you run on it.
(I hate wet tracks :mad: ) Damp is good though. ;)
I just noticed you are from Vegas. What track are you talking about?
Monster Hobbies? Are they racing there yet?

[ViperStrike]

You can just mount the shocks on the rear of the arms. You don't need to switch them. You will have to get the FG shock towers. They hold up so much better than the molded ones anyway and you will need to get a few other things too. Shock shafts, spacers. ect... The info is in with the FG towers.

Thanks, I was not aware that I needed shock shafts and spacers.
Are they shafts longer? I have the threaded shocks with the gold shafts.

[echo0587]

(I just noticed you are from Vegas. What track are you talking about?
Monster Hobbies? Are they racing there yet?)

i run at Dansey outdoor tack on saturday. i would check out monster hobbies because i will race some new just give for a change just give me the address and i will for sure check it out. o and thankx for the tire opinion really helped.

[cabbynate]

(I just noticed you are from Vegas. What track are you talking about?
Monster Hobbies? Are they racing there yet?)

i run at Dansey outdoor tack on saturday. i would check out monster hobbies because i will race some new just give for a change just give me the address and i will for sure check it out. o and thankx for the tire opinion really helped.

How is the turn out at Dansey's? I used to race there all the time when they had there indoor track.
I don't think Monster hobbies has a drivers stand in yet but the track is in and sweet!!!! It is off the 15 and Russell rd. The street it is on is Oquendo. (I think that is how you spell it).

[echo0587]

The track has got a lot bigger know tht is outdoor and 1/8 scale buggies can now run on it. I used to be at the track when it was indoor also, but know they moved it across the street (only the track not the store) in the back its a onroad track. the outdoor track does have a driver stand but know pit area yet. people for the most part just work out of their cars and bring their own chair and table. but they do havge elecrity for use

[cabbynate]

I raced on the out door track once a long time ago but have not been there since. I like racing in doors when I run electric.

[echo0587]

O you might have raced there when bill owned the track. that was a little while ago and i had never been out there when bill owned it because it was better racing inside for me. i liked racing my B3 buggy and my xxx-4 indoor also but what can i do.

I also have a question, a really big question. Has anybody ever used that online calculator to determine some result about their car that is on the rccaraction website. If you have, could you kind of give me some clues or what ever it is, to figure out what some of those things mean. like larger pulley, tire diameter, Clutch bell, Small pulley, Drive-train ratio, Primary ratio. If not it's alright because that a big question. O and thanks (viperstrike) for that coment about tire selection. and thanks cabbynate
peACe

[cabbynate]

Naaa,
I raced there when Dave first took it over. I never used those calculators. It seems to technical. I just go buy the manual when it comes to gearing and go up or down from there.

[echo0587]

Cabbynate:
Does Monster hobbies have their own elecrity and work areas and such thing. Or could you just tell me what I would need to bring.
Thanks echo
peACe

[cabbynate]

Cabbynate:
Does Monster hobbies have their own elecrity and work areas and such thing. Or could you just tell me what I would need to bring.
Thanks echo
peACe
Right now Monster hobbies hasn't got a drivers stand or the pit area done. It will have power, tables and chairs. I heard Dansey's was moving dirt back in where the carpet is? That would be cool.

[krisI.925]

hey,
Im looking into getting a XXX-4 and I wanna know how good they are as bashers? I know its really more of a racing buggy but I have always liked there design. Im looking for something thats durable, fast, and I can leave mostly stock and still have good performance and durabilty. Also how does the buggy travel through grass and handle jumps around 6-8ft. If you dont think this is a good choise can you suggest something that is?

[jkerr0043]

If you want to bash, get a Monster truck. The down side to this buggy is that they are not the most durable things out there. In fact, even the new buggy has a lot of week points that tend to break. Especially off jumps like you're talking about. And you'll be very dissapointed in it's performance in grass. This is a pure bred race car and should be run as such.

[ViperStrike]

Does anyone know where I can get front IFMAR pin tires?
At this point I would take Red or Silver.
:(

[losifreak107]

i was wondering if the d6 is a good motor for this car on a tight track. and why is it better to have lower voltage batteries. my lowest batt is a 1.17 and the highest is 1.19. any help would be good. thanks

[RustlerBoy]

The D6 is a great motor for anything. I run lower voltage packs for mod because you dont need all the punch, the mototr makes up for it. I run my high voltage packs in stock, because ya need too!

I will be running on a tight outdoor track with not many jumps soon, what should my set up be?


Also... where can i get outdrive saavers?

[RustlerBoy]

Hey guys. Anyone got any hot modifications they did to there XXX/4? Let me know. I am on a tight budget, and want to tinker. Let me kno guys!

[cabbynate]

Hey guys. Anyone got any hot modifications they did to there XXX/4? Let me know. I am on a tight budget, and want to tinker. Let me kno guys!

Tight budget + XXX-4 = no fun. Sorry, JMO. :(

[RustlerBoy]

Yea, ur right. But is there anything i can do custom that you guys know of?

[losifreak107]

you could turn it into a xxx-s that would be funky. or slam it low and put street treads on it lol this isnt really the sorta car you customize you build it you race it. and plus think of all the monet youll save. just to replace broken parts lol

[Re-Mix]

How do you guys think this car would be for bashing, in really short grass to short grass but mostly dirt. Also, NO JUMPS what so ever. How do you think it will hold up?

[jabber]

what gear ratio you guys running for 19 turn and then like a 10x1? on a med size track?

[losifreak107]

if you dont hit anything youll be fine. jabber what 19 turn motor are you running?

[jabber]

camealion, Also, im running the stock setup with the addtition of double the spacers in the rear so .210 total i believe and im havning problem keeping the front end flat, it wants to dive alot. Will reducing spacers cause more weight transfer and thus a flatter jump?

[losifreak107]

you could stiffin the front suspension might help and the gearing is probley somewhere inbetween 15 and 19

[cabbynate]

camealion, Also, im running the stock setup with the addtition of double the spacers in the rear so .210 total i believe and im havning problem keeping the front end flat, it wants to dive alot. Will reducing spacers cause more weight transfer and thus a flatter jump?
Throttle control plays a big part in how the car jumps. Keeping on the throttle at least a little in the air helps keep the car level. Tap the breaks and it's nose down. Are you running a one-way?

[jabber]

thats full gas that it wants to nose down, i was at .220 spacers in the rear and i went to .060 now

[Re-Mix]

I need to buy xxx-4 wheels, it says to get xxx wide rears, and then xx-4 front?

[jabber]

no, xx-4 fronts do not work. xxx rears do

[Re-Mix]

Then what front am i suppose to buy?

[jabber]

go to stormer and order losi 4wd fronts, they fit

[RustlerBoy]

19 turn i would go with a 19 tooth, and for a 10x 1 i would go with a 20

[RustlerBoy]

Yeah, the XX4 rims do fit, you just drill out the center hole to i think 5/64. Just test fit with a drill bit. I am running XX4 rims on my front

[losifreak107]

i just got my xxx-4 g+ and heres a smalll report im running a d6 12x2 with a 17 tooth pinion does this sound right? i builtr the car in 9 hours and two solid red hands later

acceleration: like a funny car if the motor wasnt inbetween the wheels in would pull wheelies on demand

top speed: not really sure but im used to running a xxx-t mf with stock motors and the difference is big

cornering: not to sure ill have to get back to you

thats about all i have because first run was in front of my house but ill get back to you guys with race results next sunday

[jabber]

yea i ran a 15 t 94 spur in my xxx4 today with a 10x2, fast but the motor got way to HOT. Going to try going up and seeing what it does.

[Re-Mix]

Would you guys reccomend dropping a brushless setup into this car? I just bought one, and a sweet deal popped up for a brushless setup, i was planning on just running a nice esc and an epic outlaw.

[losifreak107]

i would do it in a heartbeat but brushless is to rich for my blood and watch out for the rotor in the motor i have a friend that has had his come apart.

[Re-Mix]

Well, brushless seems to be a long shot these days, if any of my cars get a new system it would be my truck. So what motor would you guys reccomend for bashing, i am looking for a 14-15t that won't need to have the comm cut for a long time

[T/Losi]

Hi,
I recently purchased a XXX-4 with a Novak Brushless system and want to know what are the first most recommended hop-ups for this kit (apart from this new upgraded blet)?
I already have a Graphite Front Pivot Support on order as i snapped mine the other day.

Cheers

[cabbynate]

The Aluminum pivot set up front and rear is a good idea. If you don't have the G+ shock towers you will need those. Also the G+ front arms are strong as all mighty get out. :D ;)

[winning edge designs]

It is amazing how strong the new parts are, combined with the aluminum mounts front and rear, scary!......I had a wicked crash my last race and actually brake a rear hinge pin, but no other parts!!! Woah!....people don't consider how quickly these 4w's get up to speed from a standing start, compared to a 2w. They seem more fragile because they are taking off WAY harder, plus the front end becomes tight under accel(drivetrain load)......the new parts are ultra durable......Jim

[Re-Mix]

I have the normal xxx-4, with old parts. I flipped it 4 times on the ground, no damage at all. I call that lucky, but it seems durable.

[Dingus]

or these...

www.dpmracing.com

[T/Losi]

The Aluminum pivot set up front and rear is a good idea. If you don't have the G+ shock towers you will need those. Also the G+ front arms are strong as all mighty get out. :D ;)
Who makes the aluminum pivot set-up?
Are you able to give me the part number?

Cheers

[losifreak107]

team trinity does but not sure about pn or team losi has em one of the two im not really sure

[cabbynate]

Who makes the aluminum pivot set-up?
Are you able to give me the part number?

Cheers
Bling, Bling!!!! http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2003prods/xxx4_alumpivots.htm
Snap!!! :D

[winning edge designs]

There are alot of tuning choices with these parts, from TeamLosi. I'd stay with stock spec aluminum mounts, if you can't afford the whole set........Jim

[cabbynate]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5903978130

[RustlerBoy]

For the guy wondering about motors, try the P94 or the Speeed Gems motors, very good motors.

[winning edge designs]

I've had good luck with the new peak/Orion motors, but brushes are hard to find.....Jim

[losifreak107]

i just took mine racing for it's madian voyage (g+ car) and i was really impressed with it's duribility. i made a total of 6 runs that night and no breakage. and i sometimes flew about 10 feet to far on the triple!. all i can say is wow

[T/Losi]

I have cracked the Bottom cover on the chassis (bit the runs down the middle of the car A-4210) Is the graphite one any stronger against breakage?

Cheers

[jabber]

probally not, get the dynamite actual carbon fiber one

[winning edge designs]

Kaos, you broke the drivetrain cover on the bottom? I never heard of that.....Probably a once in a lifetime thing, imo. I'd just get the graphite one and see if it even happens again before buying anything too expensive........Jim

[RustlerBoy]

I think the Dynamite cover looks sweet. I cant find it anywhere though....

[T/Losi]

Which color springs are the most stiff for the rear?

Cheers

[T/Losi]

What maintainice do you do to your XXX-4 after each day at the track?

Cheers

[RustlerBoy]

I clean the tires and suspension, and check the belts... that is about it.... the X4 is really asy to wrench on

[winning edge designs]

My maintenance includes, thorough cleaning, for inspection. Look for cracks, wear, sloppy fit, etc. Hinge pins, shock shafts, that stuff mostly. Especially after a rough day....I usually find nothing with the latest version of the XXX4, but it's always best to check.

[Gutter Ball]

I believe blues are the stiffest Losi springs. I don't do anything other than blow out the dust with a compressor after a race.

[winning edge designs]

Kaos, Blue 4.1 number A5160 are the stiffest rear springs. I usually use pink rears, but i've used yellow(softer), or even white(even softer).....i've used reds(medium), but have never had a use for anything stiffer then orange(med-stiff). What are you trying to get out of your XXX4?........Jim

[RC10racer89]

I don't have an XXX-4 but as far as race maintenance on my cars, I usually rebuild the shocks and diffs before each race. Its a pain but worth it! It really sucks crashing out of a race because of a bum differential. Other than that, just a spot check for loose screws and broken parts.

[nitro_newbie]

has any body tryed to make their xxx-4 into a 4wd stadium truck??and would 2.2" stadium truck tires fit on it

thannx in advance

[RustyT3FT]

Are these buggies faster, more durable, and funner than stadium trucks? I'm thinkin of gettin one if I get some awesome replies...

[winning edge designs]

I think you could make them into a "4wd stadium truck", but it will hurt durability. Is that something we're willing to deal with? To do it right it needs to be designed from the ground up as a 4wd stadium truck, imo.

Rusty, i'd say they are as durable, especially the latest generation of 4wd's. considering how quick they are, which is much faster/quicker then trucks are, they are tuff. The only time that wouldn't be the case is if your racing, or bashing, on a very rough surface, since the tires are much smaller, they don't do that one thing as well............Jim

[nitro_newbie]

cuz i was wondering if u could get a regulaur kit and make one cuz i saw on on a diffrent thread and it looked awsome i might but thanx


nitro_newbie

[RustyT3FT]

Did Losi fix the problem with the front A-arms always breaking? If I get one, it'll be a racer version.

[winning edge designs]

Rusty, they have much beefier front arms now, as well as aluminum arm moutns available if needed. The car is so strong now i've actually broken suspension hinge/roll pins(1/8th inch ones!). This just shows how fast and hard these cars hit when wrecked during a run. Basically crash hard enough and something may break, but nothing like the early release kits did...............Jim

[Dingus]

On that note...

Now that Losi has improved the quality of their arms, I am now going out of business. It's not a bad thing, I only produced my arms as a temporary fix to a problem that the other manufacturers refused to address. I never had aspirations of becoming an R/C manufacturer. Just filling a gap.

I still have some remaining stock left that I need to get rid of. Some are listed on ebay for a reduced cost. If you are interested, search on ebay or email me directly at dmong2@yahoo.com I need them gone.

My arms still solve the flex issue (no flex at all) and provide more tuning options with two additional lower mounting holes.

Thanks for the support!

dennis

DPM Racing

[T/Losi]

Hi,
My XXX-4 was assembled when I bought it and i now want to remove the CV's. I read the manual but still can't work out on how to remove them. Can someone tell me how to remove them please?

Cheers

[winning edge designs]

hello, if your referring to the CVD, or axles, they require you remove the roll pin from the outer axle(where the wheel goes). After remove the ballcup from the ball stud on the outer hub with a pair of small pliers or a screwdirver, by prying, or twisting it off. This allows the assembly to be slid out of the hub bearings and outdrives........Jim

[T/Losi]

How do you remove the pin? Do you just jam a little pin through it?
Also, is there a kit out there that would replace all the screws with titanium or something else?

Cheers

[winning edge designs]

T/Losi, they usually come out with a small pair of side cutters, by prying up and easily pinching, only as much as needed. If they have rusted in, you may need a small punch to remove them.
Lunsford does make titanium screw kits(others may too?), but you may want to think about what else you could buy with the $60-70.00, since the 1/2 ounce isn't a big deal, it's more about the wow factor for people with the money to spend.......But they are trick, Jim

[T/Losi]

Yeah, well i only want the screws becuase i keep stripping the heads.

Cheers

[Sefro]

I will be running an orion revolution 10x2 and I was thinking about a 18t pinion on the stock g+ the track I usually run at has one pretty long strait and is also pretty tight. what do you think I should start with?

[winning edge designs]

Sefro, you may very well end up with an 18, but i'd start at a 17, maybe even a 16, depending on your batteries, experience, etc. The revolution motors like to spin up and it's better to find the right gear from too low, then starting too high......good luck, Jim

[Sefro]

thanks. I will just buy from 16-19 and figure out what I need.
Sefro

[badandy]

I just got a xxx4 in a trade and need some advice like a good starting weight shock oil and upgrades etc. Is there anywhere to get a manual online for it? I'm not sure what I'm missing and need to see a exploded diagram as I need to disassemble and clean it up good and take inventory. Where do I start?

[microrcdude]

well, for shock oil, start with 35wt by losi. Ebay is a great place to get manuals.

[microrcdude]

ok, found a manual online. But, its for the G+. It will still work for your XXX4 though.
http://www.teamlosi.com/Manuals/xxx4g+_index.htm

[badandy]

ok, found a manual online. But, its for the G+. It will still work for your XXX4 though.
http://www.teamlosi.com/Manuals/xxx4g+_index.htm
Thanks for the help w/the manual and the shock oil....are you ready for more?

The belt cover on the bottom is broken (somebody stripped a screw and instead of slotting it w/a dremel they just snapped the corner off and left it like that!) I heard mention of the Dynamite cover and a graphite cover from Losi....any pics/links to either?

I need a good screw kit as it looks like somebody used allens instead of drivers....most need replacement for a solid rebuild.

I am interested in durability and saw mention of a article on how to bullit proof the xxx4....how do I find this article?

[microrcdude]

ok, well, yes, ill take what you can throw at me! Well, the dynamite cover is for the XXXS, so it wont work.
heres the graphite cover: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA9895
Also, for screw kit, if you want durable, these are perfect kits. It will replace every screw on the car with stainless steel screws, and it includes the wrenches.
:http://www.rcscrewz.com/1_10_electric.htm just scroll down until you see the XXX4

I will keep my eye out for the article, i know ive seen it online before.

[winning edge designs]

badandy, I recommedn the aluminum pivot blocks if it's in your budget. Also the belt upgrade kit is very nice. The front one-way is also a good tuning option to have, as well as titanium turnbuckles if yours came without them.

I run 30 with 56's in back, using pink springs and 25 with 57's in front with silver springs. Matt and BK have some good set-ups and there are manuals online at Teamlosi's website.............hope this helps, Jim

[microrcdude]

heres the set-ups hes referring to: http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/xxx4g+/index.htm

[badandy]

You guys are great.

I plan to go with the aluminum pivot blocks however I wasn't sure if I really need all of them. I guess I will check the setup pages that were posted and get what is in those.
I found that screw kit right after I posted that I needed one :p I thought that black oxide was the way to go for screws?
How would I know if I have the old belt kit or the new? What is better about this kit?
I ordered up the Delrin arms that I saw mentioned here as it appears he was having a inventory depleation and was going to no longer produce them so I thought I had better snag some up.
What is the trick for seperating the center slipper? I do not have the slipper wrench as all I got was a car/motor/batteries(1) and a reciever that does not even work :( ....anyway, I printed off the manual to have and understand the instructions however I can't get the dang thing to screw loose as I need to replace the spur.

It's going to be a long road guys as this old girl needs some help but I'll whip her up into fine shape soon enough with all of your help :D And thanks for all the help thus far

[winning edge designs]

Badandy, The slipper is threaded opposite, so it won't loosen by mistake as easily. This is called left hand thread, right is normal, or more common at least.

The new belt kit uses a larger idler pulley and belt, so it can be run looser without skipping any more then normal.

The front aluminum pivot blocks are best, if you can't get them all right now. the aftermarket arms aren't needed, but can't hurt. The latest arms from TeamLosi are plenty durable.............Hope this helps, Jim

[badandy]

Badandy, The slipper is threaded opposite, so it won't loosen by mistake as easily. This is called left hand thread, right is normal, or more common at least.

The new belt kit uses a larger idler pulley and belt, so it can be run looser without skipping any more then normal.

The front aluminum pivot blocks are best, if you can't get them all right now. the aftermarket arms aren't needed, but can't hurt. The latest arms from TeamLosi are plenty durable.............Hope this helps, Jim
Jim,

I got the slipper figured out....it was just mega tight. I snagged the belt upgrade today at the LHS as well as some rear threaded shock bodies, bearings for the steering (does anyone make aluminum bellcranks and are they worth it/needed?), graphite plate type shock towers, diff lube, shock oil etc. I found the "caged" thrust bearings....man is that much nicer than trying not to lose those tiny thrust balls. Does anyone offer up a 1/8 scale type wing for these? It seems the lexan one's just get beat up too fast from what I have seen of others cars.....maybe they just need to learn how to drive :p

One again thank you for your input....I'm sure I'll have more questions as I continue to rebuild this thing :)

[winning edge designs]

Cool, I wouldn't sweat aluminum bellcranks, money is better spent in a few other areas if you want to do some hop-ups. Does the car you got come with the most recent body(XXX4 G+)? If not that is a big improvement in appearance, imo. Try out some of the new white ballcups, A6015 I believe is the number............More important then anything else, track time and tires and you should be set.

For wings, the best thing while sorting it out(practice etc) is to run them unpainted, or scuffed, so they are easy to swap out. I found that stiffer wing material results in broken wing mounts and other parts, so the wing is easier and cheaper.................have fun, Jim

[badandy]

Cool, I wouldn't sweat aluminum bellcranks, money is better spent in a few other areas if you want to do some hop-ups. Does the car you got come with the most recent body(XXX4 G+)? If not that is a big improvement in appearance, imo. Try out some of the new white ballcups, A6015 I believe is the number............More important then anything else, track time and tires and you should be set.

For wings, the best thing while sorting it out(practice etc) is to run them unpainted, or scuffed, so they are easy to swap out. I found that stiffer wing material results in broken wing mounts and other parts, so the wing is easier and cheaper.................have fun, Jim
JIm,

It does not have the most recent body....in fact it does not much of a body at all and nothing for a wing. I like the new body too and it is on my list :cool: White ballcups? Mine are Red....difference in hardness I presume?
It looks like most run the kit front tires and bowties in the rear. What exactly is the benefit to the graphite chassis? I know back in the RC10 days it was weight however I can't see much of a benefit to the graphite as the stocker seems very ridgid and lite.Included w/the car was a "Green Machine Pro" motor. It looks to be a 27 single turn. I was given a 19 tooth pnion to match up to a 92 tooth spur. I will go brushless but will this suffice for now?
Thanks again

[microrcdude]

The motor is plenty fine right now.

The graphite chassis is only more lightweight and stiffer.

[kanevil]

If you guys want a scew set, head over to hexcrews.com Their screws are suppose to be stronger than titanium and steel and the whole set cost less than the RCscrews.

[microrcdude]

stronger than titanium? LOL what a joke.

[badandy]

stronger than titanium? LOL what a joke.Do a little reading on metalurgy...you will be suprised ;)

[winning edge designs]

Badandy, The white ballcups are better material and updated design. For a stock motor(27x1) I would run about 24 pinion, maybe even higher, but start there. I use a 19 with an 11 turn modified. Don't worry about the graphite chassis yet, it's nice, but not the ultimate item to get...yet. As far as tires, most tracks I race on like holeshots all around, or Taper pins when the bite gets really high. I've never run bowties on 2 or 4 wd, only truck, but then step pins are usually better when they work at all.

True, titanium isn't very strong, it is strong for it's wieght and stronger then aluminum, but not as strong as steel. Titanium is very abrasive to machine, which makes it expensive for us........stainless screws are popular right now, most suppliers sell them 100 for less then a few dollars, kits are more convenient, but not cheaper..........Jim

[badandy]

Thanks Jim.....sounds like good solid advice :)

[badandy]

Okay guys, I'm still in the rebuild process and I have made some improvements as I went.

I ordered up those Delrin arms (I like!)
I upgraded my shock towers to the graphite plate type (is the shock shaft change necessary?)
I upgraded to the new belt setup
Threaded shock bodies all around
Traded more stufff for a new hitec reciever (hfs03mm)
I ordered up the new style body/wing (Too bad I suck at painting...lol)
I orderd up the aluminum pivots but have not picked them up yet

I am concidering the titanium turnbuckles and am wondering about Ti hinge pins. I still need a speed control and am wondering if I should just take the brushless plunge as I don't want to maintain brushes, etc.....finally I am also in need of a reciever x-tal does anyone know where I can buy just the one?

[winning edge designs]

Badandy, the shock shaft change isn't needed, but without it you'll need to add .200 shock spacers inside the shock more then you would with the recommended shafts.

For painting check out www.jconcepts.net...;).

I would get the turnbuckles, but don't worry about the hinge pins, the ti actually bends easier then the steel hinge pins. In the case of the turnbuckels the Ti metal is stronger then the soft steel, but the hinge pins are drill blank steel.

As far as speedo', I use a GT7, Novak now has a GTX I haven't tried yet, but brushless is easily the way to go if your only bashing, or club racing. Brushless is slightly slower then mod, faster then stock, almost zero maintenance, but not legal for competition unless you run a specific brushless class at your track. Check locally first if you will race much.....Jim

[badandy]

Update....

A speed control was the last piece I needed and I scored a LRP IPC V6 swapping w/friends. I was told that this is a upper end controller however I have not found any info on it as of yet. I would like to find some instructions even though I don't really need them it would be nice to have.

Does anyone have a slipper wrench they could sell me?

Could somebody direct me to a really motor heatsink?

How do you know your belt is adjusted correctly?

My maiden voyage was fun but I believe that my driveway will not suffice :cool:

I'll let you guys know how the track goes......

[winning edge designs]

badandy, try the guys at superior hobbies, 407-834-9299, they may have one in stock, they stock everything usually!

I haven't needed a heatsink, but if you run at low speed alot you may, so try a trinity heatsink, i've seen them, but don't know the part number.

For belt tension I run mine so the tensioner springs back a little with the two locking screws loose. That is push lightly on the farthest away screw with an allen key in it, you'll feel it want to "spring" a little, keep it just into the spring feeling range, this is a good starting point. This way you know the belt is loaded slightly and will skip a bit less. Fro more runtime, or looser surfaces, you can run it looser, etc............Jim

[badandy]

Great info....

Ti turnbuckles will be here shortly :)
What is popular to use as a steering servo? I like the Hitec digitals but was wondering about digital vs. analog with BEC.....what do you guys use?
How about the front one way? What are your opinions?
The guys at the local track keep hounding me to get this thing competitive. :o
Oh yeah one more question....

I see speed controls without heatsinks and I see them with as well. How do these upper end controllers shed heat without mosfet heatsinks?

[winning edge designs]

badandy, I like the JR servos, digital is nice, but not needed unless your at the top of your game. My second choice is airtronics servos, a 357 or 358 is good from them. Futaba is my next choice, excellent servos, but a little pricey. If you go digital they all are over priced. KO would probably be my next brand, with Hitec after that. Hitec has great customer service, but I hate the fact that I even know how it is, you know?

I like a oneway on high bite, or open high speed track. I prefer the diff on loose, or tight tracks that need a lot of braking. Neither is perfect all the time.

The fets each have thier own heat sink, the added peice is even better, but usually not needed on the better controls. I like the C2, or GTX. Some of my friends have had good luck with LRP ,but it's pricey.............Jim

[cabbynate]

I'm racing on an outdoor, open, hardpacked, good bite track. I'm running Adam Drake's set up one-way and all and I'm a little lose coming out of the turns. I feel it's the one-way pulling hard and making the rear a little loose. Think going to Black springs up front will smooth out the steering? I really wish Losi or someone would make a one-way diff for this thing. :mad: :(

[winning edge designs]

Cabbynate, ya, the one-way is usually good for making it feel like the front leads, so if you accel hard from a crawl in the middle of a turn, the car will follow the front end pretty abruptly. Two things you can try, first, if you have on a rear sway bar, try it without it. Secondly, if you are running the rear shocks in on the tower, stand them up a hole, or two if needed. You can also lay the fronts in as well if it's really bad, it all depends on how crazy it's coming around on you.......these adjustments may take away a little steering in the middle of turns and maybe turn in, but help alot coming out of the turns...........Jim

[cabbynate]

Thanks for the tips Jim!!! :)
Yea, I forgot to mention I disabled the sway bar. I will try standing the rears up some before I go with the black springs. I would through the diff back in but I don't need the front breaks and the track only has three small jumps in a 100x65 foot area.
It's like a 10th scale worlds track but they run 1/8 scales on it every other week so it gets a little beat up...............

[badandy]

I will be in the game for a mod motor next. I have heard that Orion seems to be the ticket. Most of the guys at my track run a 10 turn with a 19t pinion however I'm thinking I should save my pennies for a brushless setup as I have enough maint. with my gas stuff and don't want the comm./brush headache. Is there a mod motor with less maint. comparitively?

[badandy]

I just found a picture of a heatsink motor mount that I would like to have however I do not know who makes it. Here is the link:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/itemimages/lg-62870-0-4969.jpg
Could anyone identify it and let me know so that I may buy one?

[cabbynate]

That is a Trinity Matt Francis motor mount & heatsink. I have it on my XXX-4.

[badandy]

That is a Trinity Matt Francis motor mount & heatsink. I have it on my XXX-4.
Thank You!

[nitro_guy]

I just found a picture of a heatsink motor mount that I would like to have however I do not know who makes it. Here is the link:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/itemimages/lg-62870-0-4969.jpg
Could anyone identify it and let me know so that I may buy one?

Heh, I just talked to that guy yesterday about trading it to me for a heli, he says it is a dynamite heat sink/battery bar... we'll see if i get it .. was going to have it as a backup for my G+ (and steal the motor mount and battery strap for my G+) :D ... which I just bought monday, so my original guestion is: Trinity D6 11x1, 92 Spur, ??? Pinion ... apparently there is a 28 on there now but looking at this thread, it seems way too high, ran it once, killed the battery in 3 mins, top speed is crazy .. 50+ mph ... and was still picking up speed, but had to turn around ... so am I to assume for track, 17/18?

[nitro_guy]

Battery Bar:
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN6818

Heat Sink Motor Mount:
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN6820

[badandy]

man am I ever full of questions....

Okay, long story short I will be in the market for a new charger I do believe. I recently took posesion of a Tamiya Falcon that I am fixing up for my Nephew and he will need a chager of coarse so I thought I would give him mine (Duratrax Piranha Digital) In the past I had electrics (some 15 years ago...lol) and have had nothing but Nitro sinse getting back into the hobby this past year. As many of you know the batt. charger is not something nito guys agonize over but sinse the addition of my XXX4 it looks as if I will need to source out a good charger. I would like something that will charge all cell types so that way I have room to grow.

Any opinions?

[Sefro]

novak millenium pro. Lrp pulsar competiton. Are some good ones. they all require power supplies etc. They both have some cool features.
Sefro

[badandy]

novak millenium pro. Lrp pulsar competiton. Are some good ones. they all require power supplies etc. They both have some cool features.
Sefro
The LRP is very nice however it does not support Li-Poly and the like. I may never use such features however I do not know this for sure so if I can I would like to have the ability. Anything out there that supports all cell types along with discharge and cell matching?

[winning edge designs]

Nitro, I would gear an 11 turn with about a 20/92, hope that helps?

Badandy, It sounds like you may be in the market for a mack daddy charger/discharger? If you want excellent charge/discharge function and even the ability to run motors you'll need a turbo 35, or T35BL(back light on display for night racing). Other then that, I use a Novak Millenium Pro and a Pti Bull by competition Electronics...........Jim

[nitro_guy]

Welp, I geared 19/92 and the thing still sizzles after 3-4 minutes ... I turned the timing down from 20 to 12, see if that helps, otherwise as far as everyone is concerned I am geared properly? new and cycled matched battery pack, ESC maybe? LRP IPC Pro Sport ... I will try it with the timing adjustment, but otherwise, I am clueless...

[winning edge designs]

Gearing is a variable adjustment, I last ran on a wide open track and about a 19 or 20 was good with an 11 turn. I have run as small as an 18 with an 11 on tight tracks though. It always better to undergear and sneak up on it, rather then start too high. If your not sure about a good start, try a 17 or 18 and see how that goes for your purpose.........For timing I usually only run 8-15 degrees maximum...........Jim

[badandy]

Hello gang.

Things are a little slow here :eek: I was looking for some rear Losi shocks like what fits my XXX4. I will be using them for a project and they appear to be the correct length. Does anyone have some spare rear shocks lying around they would like to sell?

[RustlerBoy]

i may have somne shocks, I will see what i can do....

[Ideal]

Does the old body that came with the XXX4, also fit the XXX4G+?
I'm guessing it's only to do with appearances, not actual chassis shape that the difference is?

[XR Mugen]

Hey

The body for the G+ (Aurora body) will fit the standard XXX-4 but you will have to move the steering / body posts to the alternate position.

[jrc3]

i just picked up a used xxx-4 and dropped an ss5800 in also, but every time i hit reverse the belt pops off the tensioner pulley. i run a brushless e-maxx and thought i'd try a smaller car so i bought a xxx-t and an ss5800. man, i just can't get rear wheel drive down at the track so i'm trying the xxx-4. the tensioner bearing does have a little play w/ the pulley on, but it doesn't seem excessive to me. i'm pretty sure that i have the tensioner tight enough w/ about an 1/8 - 1/4" play, if it were tighter i think it would waste the bearing. i guess my question is; does the xxx-4 just not like reverse and especially w/ a BL setup, or is there a common fix for this. the diff pulleys seem to have minimal side to side play so that probably isn't the problem either. the car is in overall great shape so i don't think it has much run time on it. it came w/ a 9 turn single but i don't know if it was run in the it or not. i would like to have reverse, it's allowed at my track for racing and i'd like to have it for practice anyway.

also, i run at a big indoor track that used to be an old skate rink. the track is pretty torn up from the 1/8 scales and us monster truckers. it's seems to be pretty clean fill dirt w/ some clay and a few small rocks here and there. i know the rest of the 1/10 scale trucks and buggies have to run bowties or snake eyes to get any traction there. does anyone have some good tire recommendations, all i see out there are the losi studs and the rear bowties. also between the roof leaks and the 1/8 scales there are divots and ruts everywhere so i'd like to play w/ some spring combos too.

thanks a bunch, jack

my main concern is defenitly the belt problem.


edited:
well the belt problem is fixxed. i thought i'd try the tensioner pulley in the opposite position in wich it was installed on the arm and it's works. there was an old pulley in the bag of used parts that i got w/ it, the guy i bought it from obviously installed the new one backwards. of course it frayed the belt a bit but it also came w/ a brand new one. i like it when it's an easy fix.

jack

[Ideal]

Hey

The body for the G+ (Aurora body) will fit the standard XXX-4 but you will have to move the steering / body posts to the alternate position.

I think you got me wrong, I was wondering if the OLD body will fit the NEW car :p