LOSI XXX-4 Forum v2.0

[Slimboyfat]

hey guys, just searching for a bit of advice.

need a new chassis as the kit one has started to break around the front shock tower fixings (suprise suprise), after reading so much about it, its finally happened to me! LOL

as i'm in the UK, you guys have the products available before we do over here, so can i just ask those of you who have a graphite chassis are they any good in regards to strength over the plastic, or would i be best waiting for that new one that some of you seem to have (with the strengthening bits to it)??

cheers

Matt

[cabbynate]

Matt,

If you can order from www.horizonhobby.com you can get the "NEW" chassis.
It has 2 braces in the front and back to help support the front and rear of the chassis where the shock tower mounts.

[Slimboyfat]

cheers cabby

went on the website tho and could not find where they've got the part, can you help.

the only info i could find was on the actual car itself.

Matt

[jforkner]

Guys,

I adjusted the front and rear differentials with no improvement in performance. First, I got them too tight and the car just fishtailed coming out of a turn. Then I got them too loose and they slipped too much and made sort of a grinding noise. Finally I got them just right---ironically, like I had them originally.

But I did make a change that made a noticeable improvement---I increased the throw of my steering servo (I added 5% to the End Point Adjustment). Not sure exactly why this helped so much, but it allows the car to make tighter turns. And while the car still spins out some if I carry too much speed into a turn---the track is slippery---it has reduced the tendency an estimated 50%.

The car is much more predictable in its handling and tracks around corners much better.

Thanks for all your advice and help.


Jack

[cabbynate]

Slimboyfat,

Try this,

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?strProd=LOSA4202&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=ALL&strInManufacturer=ALL&tag=qsrch

[Slimboyfat]

cheers again cabby,

is the standard graphite chassis stronger than the kit plastic one?

it looks as if i might have to do with one of those untill i get the new one, so would plastic of graphite hold up better?

would it also be better to get the graphite towers too with the new chassis??


nice one

Matt

[nitrobuggyfan]

Hi,
Well my question isn't about the XXX4 but the Yokomo MR4-BC buggy. Does anyone know if they still make it?

mark

[cabbynate]

Slimboyfat,

No problem. The old Graphite chassis may be a little stronger than the plastic. I think if you go a few pages back someone pasted a photo of the "New" chassis.

Cabby

[jforkner]

nitrobuggyfan,

Wrong forum, dude.

[wcoyote_racer]

Nitrobuggy,

To let you know, since the Yokomo thread is all but dead (I know I've tried asking questions there), I'll tell you what I know. The Yokomo MR4BC, is still being sold in Japan and I think England for now. But the car Masami used in the World Champs Warmups was a Yokomo Prototype design, shaft drive MR4TC modified for off road. Not a Durango, and not the TC3O. So the MR4BC has it's days numbered. I'm guessing Christmas this year the MR4BC will be replaced by the new car.

[cabbynate]

Slimboyfat,
RushRacer posted it. Page 45 to be exact.;)

[nitrobuggyfan]

coyote,
Thanks that makes my decision easier. The design has been out for 3 years now so I dont want to buy one and sell it for a new model right away. Man I really hope they base the new one on the MR 4 sdg that just came out. SO I will just get a B4 until the new Yoke comes out.

mark

[Marciano1969]

Was able to get to the track today with my newly traded xxx-4 and I have got to ssay the car is a blast to drive. The car handled great lap times where right on what the a-main runs, the car is really smooth across the track and in the turns handled real smoooth the track was not the best being the day after the races but the car was very fast and aglie.

If my 1/8 would only handle half this good, going to race the car this weekend will tell you how it goes, need to go get some batteries and a new charger, was using a mrc super brain. I have to send back my xxl reciver, using am right now it works but really need to save the weight and use fm. Now I see why the forum has so many pages, the buggy is fast.

[Marciano1969]

I need to get some batteries do any of you know what compnay makes good packs, I will be only racing in the local scene so I don't think need super packs. Have any of you used ballistic batteries, any help you can give me will be helpfull.

[Dingus]

http://www.kinetixrc.com/

Great packs. Get the low numbers if you plan to run Mod, high numbers for competitive stock racing. These are the only packs I use and they are great. I know the matcher as well.

The web site is new, not the matcher. He's been in it for a while, but has sold direct to local racers and local shops. Very well known in Texas and a few other places.

d

[Slimboyfat]

CABBY - gonna get the old graphite one for the time being, the new chassis i've been told if it's been released over there should be over in the UK in about 2-4weeks.

the old graphite one should be strong enough don't you think?

Matt

[wcoyote_racer]

Cabby,
How have you and tarvy been doing lately racing? Found anything new setup wise, or do you think you have your car set up about how you like it?

Nitro,
No problem on the info. I used to run a Yoke before I bought my XXX-4, so it is parked for now.

I'm getting my son in on this stuff now. :D He's ran my old Losi Pro SE and loves it. I might even have him take a turn or two on the XXX-4. Who knows. I might have to buy another one.

[Crashmaxx]

I am probably going to get a xxx-4 soon enough since that is the biggest class at my track, I might buy heavy throttle's one even. But I was wondering if anyone heard if losi is going to make a factory team (sorry for the wrong term, I am an AE man) version any time soon, cause I would rather get one with all the hop-ups then buy them seperatly. Thanks.

[cabbynate]

Slimboy,
Yea, the old graphite chassis should hold up a little better than the old plastic one but the new chassis even in plastic will be much stronger. If I where you and could not weight (I could not) I would get an old plastic chassis because it is cheaper than the graphite and get a revised plastic chassis when they come in.
Then I would switch to the new chassis and save the old plastic one for a backup.http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[cabbynate]

wcoyote_racer,
I raced last weekend and had a great time. I posted my setup a page or two back. I was running on a somewhat slippery track and that setup with silver sprints up front worked pretty good. I think it my have been a little better with red sprints on the rear instead of the red X-2000's I used.

[cabbynate]

Crashmaxx,
No hoped up XXX-4 coming from Losi any time soon. They are just getting the bugs out of the standard kit.

[Slimboyfat]

cabby - LOL i wish i could wait be i've got my first meeting in 3 months a week on sun and i need it for then.

when i go to buy it i'll decide then as i've got a few days to think about it and consider the options.

agreed tho that any one of the new chassis will be stronger so i will get one when the release it over here.

Matt

[King]

Dingus: Can I get packs from the guy in Texas. I'm up in Nebraska and there is not a good matcher up here.:(

[Dingus]

Yup, he will ship via www.kinetixrc.com or you can call him at the number on the contact page.

He's much better on the phone than email, but the website works fine as well.

I always just p/u from him cause I'm local.

dennis

[King]

what numbers would yiu recamend for a 10x2?:D

[Dingus]

I take the matchers advice and he runs the lowest numbers for mod and the higher numbers for stock. He is also a sponsored driver.

Reason being, you should get more than enough power from the motor and plenty of run time from the 3300 mah.

For stock, all the motors are the "same" so the batts make the difference. That's also the reason why stock is ofter more expensive than mod at the very competitive levels.

[Marciano1969]

Where do you race at I live in san antonio and practice over at the offroad track, I haven't been able to race yet but that will change just got a early shif on sat and will be out there this race weekend

[Dingus]

I race at RPM in Round Rock for TC and go between SA and Killeen for off road.

Only been to SA once, but I'll be back soon. Toys4BigBoys has my arms stock, or they did.

There is a good sized 4wd class there regularly.

dennis

[Marciano1969]

ya I have seem them there in the xxx-4 wall, I have just traded foe a xxx-4 and really like the car we are working on the track again, the last change didn't go over to good and jkwe need to lay down some clay instead.

[Marciano1969]

Was able to race the xxx-4 this past weekend made it through the first qual finshed 5th, in the second run threw the rear cvd bone out, was able to make the main the a bad throw from a turn marshall broke the upper right screw in the shock tower and I called it a day the car is very fun to race. Going to get stainless screw all around was able to pacth the shock mount due to not having any bushing att, but will be out there next week with a vengance.

[David Wall]

Marciano, for all your Stainless needs, try this out....
http://gururcproducts.tripod.com/screws/index.html
Great product, and even BETTER PRICES!!!!!!Tell him I sent you!!
David Wall
BANZAI MOTORSPORTS
ADRIAN'S HOBBIES
GURU R/C PRODUCTS

[wcoyote_racer]

Looks to me like all of this low CG is starting to take it's toll on designs. I'm hearing of B4 chassis cracking on the front encap of the battery tray. Chassis (both types) side flex while bottoming out on jumps. With as much gruff as Losi got with the XXX-4 arms when the kit was first released, it's nice to know that now the doubters can't say only Losi has problems when releasing a new car.

Quick question. Are most of you racing on blue groove, high traction, or low traction surfaces and how do you like them?

[David Wall]

Coyote, I run on mainly loamy type surfaces, usually run a ifmar pin or big shots in rear, and blockheads,or sprints up front, ocasionally run ifmar pins up front too. I prefer the topsoil type track over blue groove for racing out door, but bluegroove indoor is the only way to keep maintenace to a minimum. The CHEESE FACTORY in Booneville MS is getting to almost be bluegroove, but it still likes a little, it is high traction, but pins are still in order there for now.

DAVIDWALL

BANZAI MOTORSPORTS
ADRIAN'S HOBBIES
GURU R/C PRODUCTS

[Marciano1969]

The track I run at is need of help right now, we went to a soild topsoil base to a clay klechie base and that really didn't help matters. We are now going to go with a baseball field red clay on top, Do any of you now how this will work do we need to retill the track and start from scratch. I think the 1/8 scales are really tearing up the track way to fast, right now the xxx-4 is hard to predict with all the low spot's and divits out there in the back straight the car is jumping around do to the pot holes. The track is real loose they have taken out all but two jumps do to the track condition.

What other options are you running on the cars, I picked up some carbide diff balls and will try them, does the one-way really help, are the other parts out there made to help the car run smoother or faster. Thank you for the site David the screw kits are really cheap.

[wcoyote_racer]

David,

The track I have raced on is outside and kind of like Marciano's. Clay/kleach with regular soil fluff. It does get divits. We just have to maintain it more often. I haven't officially raced on it yet since they redesigned it so we shall see if they have changed types on me. To my knowlege, the only way to keep a track maintained well when you are running 1/8 scale and 1/10 scale on the same track is to have a blue groove/hard packed track. If I'm wrong, feel free to let me know.

I myself prefer the softer tracks than the hard packed. I know there is more to maintain. To me, it just feels more like off road than what we used to know as dirt oval hard tracks.

[David Wall]

Marciano,
The only time you would want to run a oneway up front is on a HIGH BITE smooth track. The oneway on a rough track makes the car VERY VERY twitchy, and on a loose track, it will swap ends very easily.
Your welcome on the GURU site, he's a good guy to run for!!

DAVID WALL

BANZAI MOTORSPORTS
ADRIAN'S HOBBIES
GURU R/C PRODUCTS

[Toiffel]

Hi, I need some help, where can I find information about recomended gears for the xxx-4, I'm running the stock spur and a 12 quad with a 17 pinion gear, the track is tight with a long straight, any help would be very much appreciated!!!!!

[David Wall]

Toiffel,
I would be glad to send you a gear ratio chart, you are running a ratio of 11.36 with your 17/92 gearing. Its is hard to say not driving your car on your track, but you need to go by feel mainly. If the car accelerates good and has good topend, and doesn't come off too hot, you know you are right. Each track is different as far as ratios go, just play with it and find the most effeceint one for you. I usually run a 10turn single with that same gear ratio most places, you may want to back down to a 16t pinion and try that, that would put you at 12.07. If you want the chart, just let me know and I will send it to you.

DAVID WALL

BANZAI MOTORSPORTS
ADRIAN'S HOBBIES
GURU R/C PRODUCTS

[Toiffel]

I would appreciate that ver much, thanks David!!

[David Wall]

Send me you e mail addy and I'll send it to you!!!:D

DAVID WALL

BANZAI MOTORSPORTS
ADRIAN'S HOBBIES
GURU R/C PRODUCTS

[OmegaTrac]

Hey,
My local track is closing down one of the nitro classes that I run. My buddy is big into electric and he says I should get a XXX-4. He says the XXX-4 is a great buggy and is easy to drive fast around a track. He will let me drive his so I can make up my mind if I want one.

Anyway, if I sell one of my nitro trucks I could get between 450 and 500 bucks. I want to race stock class and use club level batts. How much will a race setup cost me?

I will need the following
-XXX-4 Kit
-Stock Motor
-ESC
-Batts (Club level. Maybe some 2400's or 3000's?)
-Charger (Preferably a Quasar?)

I will not need radio gear (Already have XR3)

How much am I looking to spend?

[fitj]

rough estimate:
car - 260
esc - 75 - 100
motor 35 - 55 (p2k2pro ~ 35)
battery 35 up (cheap nimh stick) 55 up (matched cells) X 2 or more packs
charger 50 - 100

[cabbynate]

Don't forget a good steering servo: $45.00-$125.00.http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[fitj]

I was assuming he would use the z550 that comes with the xr3. its nothing compared to the digital on my 1/8 scale, but works fairly well for the lighter xxx-4 steering. It will work for now, meaning less money up front to get running.

[Toiffel]

Hi, Dave can you send me that gear chart please?? My email is ebd14@hotmail.com

Thanks!!

[David Wall]

Its on the way:D

DAVID WALL

BANZAI MOTORSPORTS
ADRIAN'S HOBBIES
GURU R/C PRODUCTS

[King]

I need a set up for a loose track. I'm running a D4 10x2 with ifmar pins f/r not sure what's in the shocks but it has blue springs up front and pinks in the rear. It does very well when I jump on the throttle but in the corners it like to swap ends all the time. It also like to nose dive off the jumps when I don't have the throttle pegged. Any help would be great.:D :cool:

[GingerRacing]

Where is the best place to buy a xxx-4 online at the moment please?

Thanks
Craig

[jforkner]

King,

I had a similar spin-out problem. I'm a rookie without a lot of experience running a stock MVP motor, but here's what helped me:

NOTE: All stock setup except the following:

Front Shocks---stock setup (green springs, 30 wt.oil, 57 piston)
Rear Springs---yellow springs, 27.5 wt. oil, 56 piston
Front tires---red Blockheads
Rear Tires---red X2000s
Rear Sway Bar---recommended setup (second from smallest bar)
Battery---Forward


But the thing that helped me most was to increase the throw on my steering servo about 5% at the transmitter. Not sure why that worked so well; but it made a significant improvement in cornering ability, and reduced the tendency to swap ends.

Hope that helps.


Jack

[Dingus]

Try the 1 deg hubs to help with the spin out problems. They bring the rear toe to 3 deg per side. Stock is 2 deg per side.

[lildev0426]

hey guys great forum here! i just built my xxx4 last week (have yet to hit the track. i have noticed that the steering does not seem to turn left or right as far as my other r/c's - xxxke,7.5, nt. Is this normal? My steering posts are on correctly and i double checked everything i think. As a matter of fact, when my wheels are at full turn, the steering posts actually just hit the center of the chassis. Camber, and toe look good too.

can one of you guys please post a top view pic of your xxx4 with the wheels turned all the way left or right?

[jforkner]

lildev,

My steering posts just touch the center at full throw. Don't know any way to go past that.


Jack

[jforkner]

King,

One other change I made to help spin-out was to use 1 degree anti-squat vs. 1 degree pro-squat (stock) in the rear.


Jack

[Toiffel]

I would appreciate someone explain under what driving conditions or track conditions, could I use the optional pulley?? I know what it does, but how can I aplly that to track conditions??
Thanks.....

[OmegaTrac]

Got somemore questions.


Is the kit easy to put together?

Is the car still haveing problems with shock towers and arms breaking?

If i use a p2k2 what pinion should I run on my medium sized track?

How often must belts be replaced?

Thanks. :D

[jforkner]

Omega,

My 2 cents:

Is the kit easy to put together?

Yes. Just follow the instructions.

Is the car still having problems with shock towers and arms breaking?

I believe the problems are, for the most part, fixed. I have the replacement parts (second edition) on my car and have only broken one front arm. However, I do not race but have my own home track---so my collisions are only with the wall or result from a bad jump.

If i use a p2k2 what pinion should I run on my medium sized track?

I run a Reedy MVP and found a 25-tooth pinion works best. I’ve tried a 23, but it spun up too quick on my track---it’s 104' x 52'.

How often must belts be replaced?

I’ve had my car since December 2002 and have not had to replace the belt, so I don’t know what the life expectancy is.


Jack

[jforkner]

Toiffel,

I'm with you. But check out Page 37 of this forum for the explanations I got when I asked a similar question.


Jack

[Toiffel]

TY

[OmegaTrac]

Just went to the store today and got my XXX-4.
I got:
XXX-4
Novak GT7
P2k2
19T Pinion
JR R135 Receiver
JR 590 Servo 85oz/.15
Integy 3000's
Deans connectors and wire

How do you like my setup?

[RushRacer]

Seems Like Many of us xxx-4 owners have the opurtunity to race on a nice smooth blue groove track. Was wondering if anyone was running them up here in the North East, with our loose, rutted, rocky, t-maxx torn tracks. Dont get me wrong, with my gas and elec. truck its a blast, a real off road adventure, changing track conditions, a rut or two that wasn't there before, some bumps here or there that knock you around a little and if the Sun is hot and bright, some pleasurable loose and slick conditions. So far the xxx-4 eats it all up, just need some Susp. Advice. Currently running the stock set up with ifmar pins all-around (reds in the front, and silvers in the rear) . I must say that the ifmars are great at my track, great traction and steering. Was thinking about the one degree rear hubs, havn't had much problem with spin outs, but I need to keep the throttle under control coming through the corners. the problem I am having is the rear end bouncing way up on the strights and over the jumps.
So either i'm too soft and the rear is rebounding over the bumps and jumps, or my oil/springs are too thick/stiff and my suspension in the rear is not working fast enough. I am running the stock oil and yellow springs in the back so I am thinking too soft? I'd like to keep the handling characteristics the same and was wonding if I should change the front set up if I stiffen the rear. Also if any other drivers are running in similar conditions...what set ups have you been successful with.

[Toiffel]

I was having the same problem, my track is also bumpy, I fixed the front by raising the ride height, now it's above level and now it's planted, but it seems that I'll raise the back to, cause every so often it just jumps around....

[wcoyote_racer]

From my experience so far, Cabbys 27.5 wt oil setup on the rear keeps me pretty planted. Yellow springs also. It's pretty close to jforkners setup. And I think it might be close to Drake's setup on the Losi website.

I've been gone for a few days, so forgive the input on some earlier questions. As far as the breakage concern goes, I have heard very little especially with the new chassis that has the tower supports. The PRP backbones work wonders too for those that don't have that new chassis design. As far as belts go, no problems so far. Just pay attention to the belt adjustment.

I've used overdrive on softer looser tracks only when I need more cornering. Besides that, I pretty much keep the front and rear balance the same. I figure in the harder tracks, running overdrive only increases drivetrain drag.

[Slimboyfat]

ran the XXX-4 for the first time on grass ever here in the UK on sun and also made the 'A' final aswell.

set up:

front

30wt losi oil
red piston
black spring
inside on wishbones and top hole on tower

rear

30wt losi oil
red pistion
red spring
inside on wishbones
middle hole on tower

ran a 10x2 on 21/92 with 3000hv's - batteries at back of car

no brakages at all throughout the day (this car is sorted now!!)
so obviously i was able to dial the car in to how i liked it.

qual 8th finished 8th

there wer four XXX-4's in the top ten which is great and to top it all off the XXX-4 recently won the British National event that was run on a multi surface track (mainly astroturf).


Matt

[Marciano1969]

When you rebuild the front and rear diff's how much to you tighten down the thrust screw holding the out drive together, I have rebuilt them and they still feel gritty when you work the out drives but if you loosen it up a bit feels smooth. Thinking I need to get new plates because the diff balls are they new carbide type.

[B3BuggyMan]

Hey, has anyone been racing their XXX-4 primarily on asphalt/street conditions. With it's super low CG I thought the XXX-4 might match up well against my buddies' touring cars -- just for fun. :D I'm building mine now, but it seems like it might make for a nice dual-purpose mahine. Any suggestions for tire/shock set up on the street?

[jforkner]

Help! What’s the trick to allowing the motor mount to rotate within the motor mount groove? Over time mine has tightened up to the point I have to remove the motor and motor mount from the groove in order to rotate it. I assume it’s just from dirt, but it makes it difficult to set the gear mesh.

BTW, when it was new, the motor mount rotated within the groove. So I know it works.

I’ve tried brushing out the groove, scraping the inside of the groove with a small screwdriver, and lubricating the groove. Nothing seems to work

Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks.


Jack

[OmegaTrac]

Hey Guys,
Well, my XXX-4 is done. Im going to wire it up tomorrow and it will be ready to race. I also picked up my charger. I got an Integy Indi 16x4 Pro to go along with my Integy 3000's. I will let you guys know how I like the car after I take it for a spin on the track this weekend.

Have a Good One,
Chris

[jforkner]

Yo. Anybody out there???

[jforkner]

I just had to report my first impression of my new Reedy Kr 12x2 motor in my XXX-4: OH-MY-GOD!

This is the first mod motor I’ve ever run and it replaces my stock MVP. I geared it with an 18t (48p) pinion on the car’s 92t spur. That’s two teeth less than Losi recommends for a 12-turn motor. I’m afraid to put on a 19t or 20t. The car is so quick and fast now, it borders on uncontrollable.

I’m running it on my home track that has a 100’ straight with a small (about 1’) jump in the middle. There is no way I can open it up on this segment of the track and keep the car under control. The car sails twice as far off the jump with the Kr as it did with the MVP. Accelerating wide open from a dead stop spins all four tires for about a foot until the slipper clutch takes effect.

Just for grins, I put the car on the street to see how fast it would go. Scary is the word that comes to mind. I didn’t clock it, but it was scary fast---at least for this old rookie.

Two thumbs up to the folks at Reedy. What a thrill this thing is now.


Jack

[cabbynate]

jforkner,
Sounds like you stumbled into the world of what 4WD is all about.
Enjoy.;)

[David Wall]

Now is the time to strap in that 9turn single and hollar........
BBBBBBAAAAAANNNNNNNZZZZZZAAAAAIIIIII!!!!!


David Wall
Banzai Motorsports
World Class Batteries
Adrian's Hobbies
GURU R/C Products

[Marciano1969]

David, I order the screw kit last week had it in my hands in three days that guy ships fast kit was perfect for the car thanks for the link

[RushRacer]

Howdy Fellas,

Well I just got done testing out my novak brushless for my xxx-4, running a 19 tooth pinion and stock spur and must say I am impressed. It feels very similar to the 10 and 11 turn doubles I've been running...but it seems to have a little more low end grunt. WIth the 19 the electronics/motor only get a little bit warm...may try a 20 or 21 tooth pinion and see how those work out. Instalations a bit tight but no problems will just have to shorten the motor wires a bit. Overall its nice and smooth. I'll keep evryone updated with any problems etc....but I may have changed my last set of brushes...:D

[cabbynate]

Cool Rush.
I think I would be sweating the motor getting all scraped up. ( I run the lowered motor mount from the XX-4WE)

[David Wall]

Marc,
You are very welcome, hope you enjoy the kits!!!!
David Wall
Banzai Motorsports
World Class Batteries
Adrian's Hobbies
GURU R/C Products

[Marciano1969]

Was able to run the xxx-4 this weekend, had some problem with the body shifting to much do any of you use the sway bars, thinking that will cut down on the body roll. This car is a blast to drive, bought some threaded shock collars going to mount up before next weekend. Might be able to get to the track this week if the rain stops need to put some t time in, make a few changes and see what difference they make.

[jforkner]

Marciano,

Not sure what you mean by "body shifting" vs. "body roll." I put the sway bar on my car to help with a problem I was having with the car spinning out around tight corners---it seemed to help a little.

I guess I haven't been very observant because I didn’t notice body roll before or after installing the sway bars. But I’m sure the sway bars reduce any tendency for body roll.


Jack

[RushRacer]

A few post race impressions of the novak brushless...uped to a 20 tooth pinion and stock spur....great speed and contollability. Love this motor good low end torque and nice and smooth. Running the "light brake" set up which suits me fine. All and all I'm sold, and love it. Running this set up only brings the esc and motor into the 160 degree range...well below the 250 shut down on the esc. Might try a 21 tooth pinion for kicks...but don't want to press the limits of the motor/esc. It is plenty fast and running it coolor will most likelly increase its longevity. Oh by the way, 4wd buggy is great , got some good consistant fast lap times.

ALso, if anyone in CT is looking to race their xxx-4's or other 4wd buggies we have a class at Extreme R/c in new milford.
Hope to see you down at the track

[Marciano1969]

What are the run times you are getting, I want to get the same set-up for practice and fun runs and use the regular motors for racing, sounds like the brushless is the way to go

[jamesbernatchez]

hey rush! im also in connecticut and i usually race 1/8 scale in enfield at r/c madness. i just got a xxx-4 with novak brushless and have yet to run at the track with it. i also just got another xxx-4 and im thinking of getting another novak or just getting a sweet 8 or 9 turn motor for use with my lrp 6.1 i have lying around. we will see. how many people show up usually? when do u race and what are the entrance fees? what other classes are usually raced? i also have a 1/8 hyper 7 pro and an emaxx. im interested cause when i get the other one hooked up me and a buddy of mine will come and give you guys some more competition:D shout back!

[RushRacer]

James...good to hear from you. We have 4-5 guys now with 4wd...also heard another will be buying a xx-4 soon. We race sundays, racing starts at noon. 10$ entry fee, 2 heats and a main. Classes are nitro truck, mod truck, mod 4wd buggy. Possible 2wd mod buggy (if enough guys show up), and t/e-maxx which are run together. usually two heats of electric truck and t/e-maxx...which are the most popular. But us 4wd guys got some ooohhss and ahhs since we've started running. Hope to see you down at the track have a good one.:D

[jamesbernatchez]

thanks rush! ill have to stop by and whoop all u guys with my xx-4:D what days are open for practice? how is the hobby shop? do they have a lot of parts for these buggies? does he have outlets for our chargers? sorry for all the questions but i dont want to leave anything i need at home. are people runnin any hop-ups or mostly stock and what tires seem to work well up there? hey thanks again. i'll see you up there in a few weeks.:)

[jamesbernatchez]

heres a pic of My xxx-4 that ill be running. what do u think?

[jamesbernatchez]

And here is another. When i get my other xxx-4 hooked up ill post pics of it on here too.

[therealdanimal]

XXX-4 ran great this weekend, didn't even break 'til the last lap of the main. I t-boned somebody that was sideways and the impact broke the front shock eyelet. I was in third too. Oh well, I'll make-up for it at the trophy race that's taking place next weekend at IR/CR in Magna, Ut.
Nice paint James. That's kinda similar to my paint scheme. Is that faskolor pearl green I see?

[therealdanimal]

I'm bringing the pain!!!:D

[Marciano1969]

Is anyone having trouble with the motor mount screws, on two of my chassis i have striped the bottom of the chassis due to the bolt moving in the chassis. Is there anything you can do to make the bolt secure in the chassis

[JonDax]

Here's a drawing of my xxx4 I did for a poster I made for my track. Whaddya think?
--JD

<img src=http://home.mindspring.com/~jdachs/XXX4/RC_BG.jpg>

[fitj]

This may have been mentioned before, but has anyone else had a problem with LOTS of dirt getting in the belt channel? I'm getting dirt in the teeth of my diffs, pinion and spur. already starting to chip teeth. also wearing down the belt slowly. I have tried forcing black silicon sealant into the seams at the bottom of the channel, the screw on plate and the bumpers, but I'm still getting dirt. Its either getting in around the diff couplers, the steering arm passthrough, motor, or lexan cover.

Any opinions / suggestions?

[mack]

Use a good tape and seal your Lexan cover if you haven't yet.

[jamesbernatchez]

well i just got another novak brushless system for my other xxx-4 and i couldn't be happier. can't wait to race them. hey rush: what time are u usually done racing cause i need to go to work at 6? hope to see you down at the track. i have a 9T speed gems pro sittin here with an LRP V6 esc so i might need to buy another buggy to put them to good use. until next time......



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My Fleet:

Two Triple X-4's with Novak Brushless systems
Ko Propo Mars EX-1 radio
JR XR3
stock E-Maxx
Nitro TC3 with RB X12
Hyper 7 Pro with O.S. RZ-V99B

[jamesbernatchez]

if anyone is interested in a xxx-4 brushless setup check out ebay. i am selling BOTH of mine. ive decided to get out of rc for a bit so my whole fleet is up online. each has a seperate auction. check them out. the prices are well worth it as i take really good care of all my equipment. both of the brushless auctions are really new. the race package is the pics that are up here and it is only a few weeks old and i only ran it 3 times on the street. the other (gray) is only 2 days old as i just got it from tower. i ran only 1 battery through it and i didnt even run the entire pack. if your interested check them out. the tc3 is less than 3 weeks old. im selling all of my toys to get a new $3000 apple powerbook( what am i thinking!!!:D ) im focusing on other things for the next few months. but dont worry ill be back with some more awesome toys very soon. thanks and good luck!

[Marciano1969]

can you post a link to one of the auctions

[jamesbernatchez]

http://**************/ws/*******************************3135842149&category=1200&rd=1

this is for one of my xxx-4

http://**************/ws/*******************************3135843239&category=1200&rd=1

this is the other. check them out. tell me what you think!!!

[jamesbernatchez]

it isnt working?!?!

go to ebay and search for seller jamesbernatchez if you do that you will get all of my auctions that are up online.

[mack]

Can anyone give me some good sources for upgrades for a xxx-4. My front end components seem very prone to breakage. I am running a Novak Brushless. Fast !

[MAXX 2.5]

i am running my home made "rubbermaid" front shocktower. its yet to break on the wickedst spills

[jforkner]

Mack,

There aren't many, but try the Losi web site: Losi New Products (http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/index.htm)

Also check out the other Losi XXX-4 thread at this site: LOSI XXX-4 Forum v1.0 (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71729&perpage=25&pagenumber=41)


Jack

[mack]

Thanks Jack, Been there, done that.

[wcoyote_racer]

mack,

The PRP backbones do wonders for strengthening the shock towers. I saw a few people selling them on ebay and you should be able to find them at your local hobby store. They also work with the new chassis that has the shock tower supports. Hope that helps.

[AussieSam]

Hi,

How much do you think a good xxx-4 goes for on eBay.

Thanks,
Sam.

[AussieSam]

Hi,

Can anyone tell me if you can buy threaded shocks for the XXX-4 and the length of the shock shafts.

Regards,
Sam.

[ride161]

Hey RUSH!!!! whats up.. its mike, the one from xtreme that had the xx buggy that raced against you guys a couple weeks ago....
Just picked up a xxx-4 off ebay for 150... should be here early next week! ill def. see you guys when it comes in... by the way what are you guys runnin for tires???

later... mike

[mtn bkr]

Hey guys, I've got a couple of quick questions. I've got a chance to pick up a XXX4 that is all graphite for $130. It definitely seems like a good deal to me, but I was wondering if there's still any problems with durability. How's everyone's ride holding up?

[jforkner]

Mine's holding up fine, but I don't race---I just run on my home track. My car has no graphite parts and has only broken one front arm.

[Marciano1969]

I race mine every other weekend and the car's hold up, you will break parts if you hit hard enough, regular upkeep will keep the car on the track instead of in the pits. You are getting a deal on the graphite.

[RushRacer]

Ride, Good to hear there will be another 4wd buggy down at the track. I am running ifmar pins, I like them. Some of the other fellas are trying some other combinations. The ifars to meeseem to hook up well and have a really nice slide in the corners...which I like. I find if the track is really dry and gets very dusty/sandy that I push alot more in the corners but still handles well.

[ride161]

rush... good to hear back from ya... thanks for the tire choice !!! ill try that.. still havent gotten the buggy but youll see me soon!!! i wanna get the coreless before i even start racin.. i wasted a mod that one day that i raced with you guys and i dont have a lathe to keep truin the comm, and havent seen westcoast to do it for me... and for the rest of you just to let ya know.. dont let rush fool ya.. hes got all the track records in 4wd... later

[crono man]

hey guys looking to get back into 4wd just have some few questions about the xxx4

1)Any vital hop-ups that i need right of the bat to make the car more durable?

2)I keep hearing that the car is abit fragile is that true?

3)Is it true that the car slap down hard on major jumps?

[Gutter Ball]

Knocking on wood, I haven't broken a single thing on my XXX-4 in over 2 hours of actual racing. I'm by no means a perfect driver either. My XXX-4 is completely graphite and I've got the PRP backbones on my shock towers. It's taken tumbles off the double, hits against the tubing and bumps off other cars. I've only seen one break and that was because the guy came off the double and landed on the right rear wheel, breaking the rear pivot. The backbones are definately worth investing in!! I have noticed that my car "slaps" down off of big jumps, but it doesn't bounce...it just lands and takes off. Awesome car in my opinion and I have yet to experience any of the "fragileness" that people are talking about.

[mcquto]

The fragileness was a problem with the first run of cars released due to a bad batch of plastic that they were made from. Any kit you buy today will have been made from the correct mix and won't be easy to break. I unfortunately got a car when it was first released and got one of the first run cars. Since then I have broken almost every part on the car and replaced them with parts made from the new batch. Once replaced, I havn't broken anymoore parts. The car is excellent in handling and performance. I am really happy with it. Unfortunatly I may have to sell it due to the fact that 4WD has died off at my local track and I haven't been able to race it for over 2 months. If you are interested in buying a used one, Email me through this site and we can talk.

[Gutter Ball]

mcquto: Bummer, 4WD is our biggest class with 16 registered racers.

[crono man]

well im getting a 4wd buggy and it has come down to a choice between the cat3000 and the xxx4!

any input from people that have owned both buggies would help alot!

[Dingus]

Don't forget about my arms to help strengthen the front end and add more tuning options.


www.dpmracing.com

[wcoyote_racer]

Crono man it's actually quite simple of a decision. Go with the car you can get parts for easier. That way, the parts cost less, you don't have to wait on the mail, and be down that much longer with a broken car.

Where I live I would have to order parts for the Cat 3000 directly from Shumacher at Their list price. Which means even if I broke a tower, I'd have to wait 1 or 2 weeks to run the car. The Losi parts are readily avaliable (as are any hop ups like titanium links, screws, losi aluminum braces, one ways) at my local hobby shop. All I would have to wait for is the time it takes me to get there and back.

[rschwartz]

I was wondering if any of you were braking the one-ways in you xxx-4 and if anyone has a solution for this.

[mack]

I am not sure what you mean buy one-ways

[rschwartz]

I mean the one-way that is used in the xxx-s and most of us out here in ohio are using them in the xxx-4 but we keep braking them, the one way it self, we think it is because when you use the one way the diff is locked up, both wheels spinning together just like if you had the spool pads in, i was wondering if anyone has come up with a way to have a diff and a one-way? I have been working on one for the last month, just too little time to get it finished. was hoping sombody out there had any other idea's.

[Keemos]

Are you braking the one-way baring itself or the hub???

[rschwartz]

The one-way bearing, not the hub.

[HyperLosi]

can i get some imput on the guys runnin the novak brushless set up in there cars??? what gearing do u run? how does it run?

[mcquto]

I replaced my 9t flatliner with the Novak SS a few months ago and I have been very happy with it. It doesn't have quite the top end as the 9T Flatliner but it has more torque and thats perfect for 4WD. I can keep up with any car on the track as far as speed and acceleration (not that good a driver though). I ran against Matt Francis with his 2WD Mod buggy and when we came out of the turn onto the long straight our cars matched up side by side untill we came into the infield. The only thing to watch out for is the temp of the speed control. I regularly get temps of 200 after a 5 min race. Make a small scoop in the body over the speed control and it will help a lot.

[RcVet]

I looking for an un-biased opinion on this car. In canada, this car is $400 (depens on dealer). It it worth the cash? I'm looking for high end electric 4WDs, and this seems to fit the bill.

What's out there that competes with it?

your opinons please and thank you...

RcVet.

[Keemos]

I personally love racing this buggy. I have no comparison since it’s the only 4WD that I have driven. You may want to wait and get the graphite kit that Losi is releasing this fall. It has already all of the upgrades already. It may just cost a little bit more but would be worth it in the long run. I hope this helps... http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/teamlosi/xxx4g.jpg

[Gutter Ball]

There's the Schumacher Cat and a modified TC3 called the "Durango" that compete in 4WD. The Schumacher Cat isn't very popular because parts support is very poor. The Durango costs over $1000US :eek: We have 14 4WD's at our track, 2 are XX-4's and the rest are XXX-4's. Contrary to the reports, the XXX-4 is not as fragile as it's been made out to be and there has been very minimal breakage at our track. It's an awesome car!

[mcquto]

deleated

[riceracer]

ok some questions, i have the NON threaded shock bodies, and i plan to change to threaded bodies, exactly what parts do i neeD, like speicific sizes or lengths for front and back...do i just need to change the shock bodies or is tehre more to do? item # anyone?

also i heard some titainum nitride shock shafts are a good plus too, =] item # anyone?

also where can i get RED shock collars and RED screws?

[not.enough.toys]

All you need is the threaded shock bodies to convert over. I think Trinity makes the red collars( Matt Francis ) . I just got my xxx4 friday, built it friday night, and drove it saturday, and love it. It doesn't have a whole lot of ground clearance but man that thing fast. I'm running a brushless, front one way, threaded shocks, alum pivot blocks in front. I left the 20t on there from my T4, but am going to switch to a 18t and see how that works.

[riceracer]

ok thanks! any item #'s would be nice!

also i heard that aluminum pivot balls make the car handle better or something?



also is the XXX4 dirve shaft 3/16" or 1/4" inch? also is the front and back CVD's the same?

[wcoyote_racer]

I've noticed that Yokomo decided to import the MR4BC Special (Dogfighter 2) to the states finally. Sounds like there will be more competition in the 4WD class after all. And AE still thinks there isn't a market for 4WD Off Road???

As far as the XXX-4G+ goes, I'm going to get one. But with winter coming (outdoor track) I'll Probably get my XXX-S G+ first. Just so I can race during winter. Besides, it will be a good change for me since I have only raced off road. I noticed Jukka's first RC car was also my first one: Tamiya Super Shot. Coincidence?? :D

[not.enough.toys]

You can check out the Losi website for new parts and part numbers for the xxx4, I threw out all of my packages. Sorry.

The super shot, hot shot, big wig, I remember those cars( I must be old).

Even the 18t pinion with the brushless seems a little too high. Anyone running the same setup?

[mcquto]

Im running the Novak Brushless with a 21T pinion and stock spur. It screems and has plenty of power for tight turns. It gets about 200 degrees after a hard run. (speed controler)

[riceracer]

do you know if the XX4 and XXX4 parts are interchangeable? such as sway bars, motor mounts, rear brace, front CVDs, outdrives titanium sleeves and stuff?

[OmegaTrac]

Im having a problem with the body on my XXX-4. The body doesnt go all the way down on the motor side. That side of the body sticks up because it rests on the motor. I dont know what to do to fix the problem. Is there any way to adjust the body posts to get the body to sit right? Can anything be done to fix the problem?

Thank you,
Chris

[not.enough.toys]

mcquto: I tried a 22t on a really small tight track, but the motor seemed to get too hot. If you look in the novak manual they say you should try and achieve a 7.3:1 ratio. Then the Losi manual says that the tranny is a 2.1:1 ratio. So to get the 7.3:1 that novak suggests, the correct pinion should be a 26t pinion.

[mcquto]

If the motor is getting hot try dropping a couple of teeth. Novaks recomendation doesn't take into the fact that a 4wd belt driven drive train has a lot more drag than say a B4. It may not feel like it to the hand, but when pulling that much rpm it makes a big difference. You also say that it is a small tight track, That sounds like you are doing a lot of accelerating and braking and not spending too much time at top speed. 26 teeth on the pinion will drive the temp up on your speed control and eventually cause it to fail.

[OmegaTrac]

Anybody have any ideas whats causing my problem?

[Gutter Ball]

Omega it's probably the way your motor wires are soldered and it's your wires that are actually propping the body up. Check that first. My motor touches the body, but doesn't prop it up.

[not.enough.toys]

I threw in a 16t and had great acceleration but lacked top speed. Last night a put in a 20t, track now has doubles and triples 10-15ft apart, and had no problem clearing any jumps. However, I did manage to break a one -way bearing. I'm going to put in the reg diff and see how that works. Only thing I don't like about one-way is that when breaking, the rear end slides out.

[not.enough.toys]

Originally posted by riceracer
do you know if the XX4 and XXX4 parts are interchangeable? such as sway bars, motor mounts, rear brace, front CVDs, outdrives titanium sleeves and stuff?

I think that the motor mounts may be the same, along with the cvd's, and sleeves. Check with other people, part numbers, and Losi's website as I may be wrong.

[ugman]

Im looking for a sheet that shows an exploded view of the buggy but cant seem to find one anywhere. Can someone please post a link???

[mcquto]

Originally posted by not.enough.toys
I threw in a 16t and had great acceleration but lacked top speed. Last night a put in a 20t, track now has doubles and triples 10-15ft apart, and had no problem clearing any jumps. However, I did manage to break a one -way bearing. I'm going to put in the reg diff and see how that works. Only thing I don't like about one-way is that when breaking, the rear end slides out.

I have never used the one way on mine. I have heard of too many people haveing the same problem as you did with it failing. I do run the overdrive pully in the front end and that seems to help with turning a little. I have heard of people eliminating the front diff alltogether and running a solid axle conversion but I have not seen it done personally so I have yet to form an opinion.

[GingerRacing]

I am rebuilding the diffs in a car I recently bought second hand. Step A-8 says to use MIP Red Grease but I don't have any of this. Do you know if you can get this as a spare? Or can I use the Losi white grease from my XXX-NT diff.

Thanks

[not.enough.toys]

The Losi grease should work fine. The wrong grease is better than no grease.

I let the hobby shop owner drive the car, and thats when the outdrive broke on the one-way. So, being a machinist, a made some billet aluminum outdrives. The graphite outdrive has that steel pin held to the outdrive with a 2-56 screw. Well, I made mine without the screw and steel pin, just solid aluminum. I tested it out last night and everything seemed to work great until the front end started crunching. Took front end apart, and found out what was causing the crunching. The aluminum outdrives that I made were just too soft ( that's why Losi outdrives have that steel pin ). The one-way bearing had formed a groove in the shaft and eventually ruined the bearing................back to the drawing board. This time, I will make them out of stainless steel, maybe titanium. Maybe, I'll keep the aluminum outdrive and use the hardened steel shaft that Losi supplies. Sorry for the long post, wait, no I'm not.

[mcquto]

If you are succesfull in making titanium outdrives let us know. I'm sure everyone will be interested in a set.

[OmegaTrac]

Well, I went racing last night and the car performed very well!! I was really happy with it.

Last night I bought an Orion Core Modified 12x2. I really really like it :) I was running a stock p2k before and its like a different car with the Mod. Much easier to drive and such.

[not.enough.toys]

I will try and make some outdrives, as some local drivers have expressed much interest in them also.

[ugman]

Guys, I got the GT7 ESC from Novak, and had some questions on how you got it to fit into the area for the ESC. It seems like there isnt much room over there. I think the biggest problem is because of the huge CAP that comes with the ESC. If someone has some pics of how they got this ESC to fit, please post them. Thanks

[Keemos]

I’ve attached mine with the cap on one side and used double sided servo tape on the on/off switch on top of the ESC. I then installed it in the XXX-4 with the wires facing the motor. I’ll try to take a picture of it later tonight.

[not.enough.toys]

You think it's tight with the GT7? Try fitting a brushless in the xxx4.

Got a question for the brushed folks. What pinion would you run with a 10 turn motor?

[Gutter Ball]

I ran a 17 on my 10 X 1 TI.

[Keemos]

Originally posted by ugman
Guys, I got the GT7 ESC from Novak, and had some questions on how you got it to fit into the area for the ESC. It seems like there isnt much room over there. I think the biggest problem is because of the huge CAP that comes with the ESC. If someone has some pics of how they got this ESC to fit, please post them. Thanks

Here is a picture from the side...

[Keemos]

Top view...

[ugman]

Thanks for the pics Keemos. Did you GT7 come with a in-line diode? I think the extra wire is to mount to the bats and the motor. It really doesnt explain it very well and the picture in the instructions dont show how to install it with the change to the power cables...

[Keemos]

Do you mean Schttky diode??? If so yes… the GT7 comes with one and you need to install it to your motor. You are right about the extra RED wire… use that to connect to the motor. I use only a short piece to connect my motor and tap the main RED wire from the motor that connects to the battery.

[KevanB]

Hi, I just looked into the xxx-4 lately. I own a xxx-s G+, and I love it. I am really looking into a xxx-4 for next season. I love offroad, and 1/8th buggies, but I dont like nitro very much (noisy nasty icky, expensive). So I looked at the xxx-4, it looks perfect to me. The only problem is barely anyone races electric at my track, let alone xxx-4's.

could I run it in general 1/10th electric? Other guys run brushless xxx's.

I dont want to buy a xxx-4 just to bash with.....

And how much do you think I could get a used rolling xxx-4 for?

[not.enough.toys]

The xxx4 is a great car. I just bought a new one for $230, and am using the brushless with it. I did run with some 2wd trucks one race day......no comparison. I lapped everyone. This car hooks up like a carpet car, and then just takes right off. The buggy is just so fast, but fragile. I have gone through three front shock towers so far, one drive cup, and that is it. I have the new fiberglass shock towers front and rear and they are ALOT stonger than anything else. I broke these due to driver error, not weak parts. I think that by driving this car, it will make you a better driver.

[ugman]

The GT7 I have already had the Schttky diode installed inline, so I assume that I just need to connect the wires. They included this and a little attachment talking about how to hook it up but didnt include a picture to show which red wire should go where. At this point Im assuming it doesnt matter.

[ugman]

Well had a bud come over and he got it all installed. We hooked up all the other electronics and its ready to go. Going to race it today, this will be the first time out on the track with this car so wish me luck...

[RcVet]

Hey, I just ordered a XXX-4. Now all I need are the electricals. I'm thinking of a Trinity Cham Pro 2. I'm sticking with stock for now. Limited budjet, so I'm building up the car lowly, over the winter. (in canada you see). It's going to kill me having the car sitting there with no electrics for a month or so. I found a good on-line store in canada. Real nice ppl there!!!

Also, I'm might go with the futaba 2PH and their MC330CR speed controller. Like I said limited budjet.

Batteries, I don't know, might get some cheap ones on ebay to start. I see GP3300's all the time on there.

Charger, no idea. To much to choose from.

RcVet.
(done with research, time to buy, hihihi)

[ugman]

I found great deals on batts at http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com (http://) they have the GP 3300's at a very reasonable price and the batts perform great!!

[RcVet]

Just got the shaft from Great Hobbies in Canada. They quoted me 339.99 for the xxx-4. Good, lets place an order. WRONG, they made a mistake. It's 389.99. People should stand by there word. Man, just when I though I was getting a deal.

The good side: it's still $10 cheaper.

RcVet.

[Backfire]

Originally posted by not.enough.toys
mcquto: I tried a 22t on a really small tight track, but the motor seemed to get too hot. If you look in the novak manual they say you should try and achieve a 7.3:1 ratio. Then the Losi manual says that the tranny is a 2.1:1 ratio. So to get the 7.3:1 that novak suggests, the correct pinion should be a 26t pinion.

Those gearing recommendations given in the manual are for a touring car, and are probably too high for an off-road vehicle of any sort. When my LHS used one as a demo, they first attempted to run it at the suggested 7.3:1 in a 2wd and it resulted in a damaged ESC. I would start out higher as Novak states on their webpage here (http://www.teamnovak.com/products/info_updates/ss_update.htm).

[not.enough.toys]

I don't go any higher than an 16 in the xxx4 and no higher than a 20 pinion in my t4, with the brushless.

[wcoyote_racer]

Well guys looks like the debate may be over on the world champs. Losi and Yokomo are the two vying for it. And with 8 XXX4 G+'s, and a TQ by Brian, I think we can call it.

[ugman]

Guys do they make shreaded shock bodies and pre glued tires for the buggy? Part numbers would be most helpful. Thanks

[ugman]

Obviously my my previous post was supposed to say Threaded Shock Bodies...

[Goose98]

Hey guys... quick question. I'm looking at getting one of the new G+ kits. Wondering if someone could give me a list of "must have" spare parts to have handy. i.e. a-arms, hinge pins, belt, etc.

[cabbynate]

Don't forget front .6 shock shafts. They seem to get bent pretty easy. Also front hub sets. keep 2 of those. #A-1216. If you race you may also want to spring for the aluminum pivot sets. The front is more important than the rear but, I would get them all the way around. (I did);)

[ugman]

What are the part numbers for the alum. pivot sets?

[RALLYKID]

want ONE!!

i think that no one wants to sell their buggy but if you do than contact me at rallyfreak202@aol.com

[Goose98]

cabby - thanks for the info. Ditto on ugman's post.... what's the part # for those pivot sets? Are they Trinity?

[Goose98]

Nevermind... I found it.

ugman - A-9670, A-9672, A-9676, A-9678

[ugman]

Thanks for the info Goose!!

[Goose98]

No problem.
Hey, there's a great article in the latest RCCA on bulletproofing the XXX-4. Check out the CNC'd Delrin arms from DPM - www.dpmracing.com. Those look sweet!

[jforkner]

I’ve decided to get out of the hobby and am offering my XXX-4 up for sale. If interested, you can go to: XXX-4-Sale (http://home.inreach.com/jforkner/forsale.htm) for details.

[mcquto]

Hate to see someone leave the hobbie but that is one heck of a deal.

[gattm99]

I have just started racing the XXX4 and am havign a so-so time. My first race with was also my first race with any kind of mod motor, a Speed Gem 11x2. Here is what happened,
heat one, Broke front shock tower on bad landing, heat two broke spare front shock tower, heat three I put a graphite tower on and one of the ball studs falls out in half a lap (my fault completely) main- full throttle it on a short jump and it launches about 5 foot up and 20 foot forward in the air end over ends and crashes on the other side of the track, broken a-arm.

I thought that racing 4wd mod would be easier then say mod truck because of better handling and breaking, but I am finding that it's incredible acceleration is more then I can handle.

Guess I need to go down to a less powerful motor and practice.

[Goose98]

I think that could be said for any class of racing. I don't care what kind of car you have... if you're going fast and you hit things just right, you are going to break stuff. I was at a race and overheard a guy asking Barry Baker what the fix was to keep certain parts of the NTC3 from breaking. Baker's response was, "the fix is to stay off the pipes." :D
I think another misunderstood concept is beefing up car parts. I'm not sure how much this goes in to r/c car design, but I know some things are designed to break during a hard impact. Now, if you go and start beefing up those parts, it's just going to end up moving the weak spot somewhere else, which is usually a higher ticket item. Just me, but I'd rather end up replacing a $4.00 a-arm over a $14.00 titanium hinge pin or a $30.00 chassis.
Don't get me wrong, I do think some hop up parts are worth getting, but sometimes making one part super strong can end up making a different part the weak link.

[Goose98]

I just got home from racing.... first time with the XXX-4 G+. THIS CAR ROCKS!!! I haven't had that much fun racing in a long time. And, I can say that I am impressed with the durability of this new kit. I had what you might call a major crash test tonight. XXX-4 vs a Yokomo.... head on collision at the end of a good 100' straight... I was at full speed (the Yok jumped the lane at a really bad spot). Results: G+ - broke the lower tab on one of the spindle carriers. That was it!!! The Yok - completely snapped the entire front bulkhead. Of course, I don't count out luck here. I know I must have hit him just right not to break any more parts than I did. At any rate, I am really stoked about this car. Can not wait to get it back out on the track.

[RcVet]

Finally after a month of waiting I got my xxx-4 kit.

Anyway, i'm was fastening the belt cover under the car and I managed to strip the 2 first #2-56 screws I put in. The first one went all the way and striped at the end, the 2nd striped 3/4's way in. Now I can't back them out. That must be the smallest allen wrech I've ever seen! LOL. Anybody run into this problem. Pre tapping would have helped.

Other than that it's going good. It's a blast to assemble.

On Monday, i'm going to the hardware store and pick me up a real 4-40 tap (and a 2-56 tap:( ). What's up with the little tapping screw? What a joke, I expected something better from a $389 (CAD) kit. And no tire glue! huh. :mad:

RcVet.

[NitroOwnsYou]

I dont even use the little screw. I use a good quality set of hex drivers, and they work fine. I dont pre tap. Dont bother with the included allen wrenches. Ive been throwing them out for ages. Tire glue in a kit? I own a s-load of kits and never ever got ca glue in any of them. Just get a bottle. Its great to have in your box anyways. BTW check with the track you run at for tire selection. Those tires are only really good on a bluegroove track. No need to glue up tires if they dont work for what you need!

[AllenJO]

Those screws were a b*tch. Mine stripped too in short order. Took my Dremel and cut a slot in the head of each and now just use a standard screwdriver.

[RcVet]

Got me a #2-56 Tap. Tapped all the holes, no problems now.

I did the same AllenJO !!! Worked like a charm to get the screws out. I'm trying to source a better #2-56 screw to go there, something that doesn't use a allen key. I think Spaenaur had what I need, p/n MS-445


RcVet.

[cabbynate]

So how are the new XXX-4G+'s holding up at the track? I have not raced in months but I keep upgrading the old XXX-4 just in case I get the chance.

[NitroOwnsYou]

I havent got alot of time in on mine, but the track I run on has huge jumps and tons of them. Very supercross style. I ran about 7 packs through the G+ with no damage to the car other than when I hung a pipe. It was my fault as I was taking the turn too tight and broke a knuckle. Other than that I never broke anything else. I was not used to the track layout at all either, so I wasnt smooth on it at all and had some hard landings, and it held the torture.

[End Overend]

I picked up a used XXX-4 a couple weeks back and was just curious, why all of the bump steer built into the steering? If you have your car set up soft and run on a rough track excessive bump steer can cause you to be all over the place at speed.

I've tuned mine out so I'm not really stressed about it, but just curious why so much.

Other than that I love the buggy. I've replaced both shock towers with the G+ versions since the first run broke the rear shock tower after 4 laps. The G+ versions look great though and much tougher than the stock versions.

Also does anybody have pictures of modifications to their bodies to increase the air flow to the motor and ESC? The newer G+ body looks like it has a vent hole that can be used, though it is small. I'd like to see if anybody has built in a hood scoop or something over the motor/ESC

Thanks

[cabbynate]

Glad to here the car is holding up better. I have the new chassis, all the aluminum hinge pin mounts, 1dg trinity rear hubs, the new g+ front arms and a host of other things I can't even think of. I love the car, I just need a place and some time to race it. I may take another trip to SoCal raceway soon.

[MXMHERO]

Hey guys i have a question for ya, I might aquire a xx4, can i still get parts for it and where can i order them from, also will xxx4 parts fit it, sorry i know this is a xxx4 forum but thought u guys could help me out thx. joe

[cabbynate]

MXMHERO

Not many part are interchangeable. You can still get parts for the XX-4 at almost every place that sells Losi.

[Losidude63]

I have a new XXX-4 that just finished building, and i hooked up a battery pack to the reciver and check the sterring, but the amount of throw i'm getting looks like its just not enough. I don't have a end-point on my radio either. Is Losi's Stock set-up ok, or did i do somthing wrong! please help befor i run my car and it won't turn to aviod the mailbox!

[Goose98]

I know what you're talking about.... I thought the same thing when I built mine.
Check that your tires are straight when the servo is centered. Then when you turn the steering to either side, the bellcrank attached to the tire that would be on the inside of the turn should be close to hitting the center spline (where the belt runs). If that's what you've got, then you're all good. It doesn't look like quite enough, but the 4wd steering gets the job done. Hope that helps.

[Losidude63]

Hey Goose98, thanks for responding but i have another quick question for you or anyone else that wants to respond....it also seems that my Wheels swing more to the left than the right. I know things are centered and good so.....is it just me again???

[NitroOwnsYou]

I think its just you again. :D They seem fine on both my G+ and std kit. Make sure the endpoints and trim are correct also. Turning isnt as sharp as I wanted, but it gets the job done.

[cabbynate]

Losidude63,
Take apart the hole steering assembly and put it back together by the book step by step. Make sure parts #A-1540 are on right.

[Losidude63]

thanks for the adivce but i already made that mistake when i did the steering assemby the first time. I acctually got out today and ran it in a little dirt alley behind my house and it worked GREAT. I LOVE this car. Now i know what everyones talking about when they drive it. I still need to adjust the Slipper a little more, but other than that no complaints. *Hint*-when driving on grass, make sure theres no dog doo hanging 'round. I spent 5 minutes cleaning doo of my front bumper and hinge-pins :(

[CaseyDDR]

About those new G+ shock towers, they are amazingly durable. BUT I did manage to break the front and had to replace it with a spare stock one a friend gave me :(

Was driving in an 8th scale buggy warm up race (electrics are free to roam at our track at all times unlike nitro) at your own risk of course! but anyways, a 8th scale buggy driver was mad I passed up his oh godly like Kanai II so he rear ended me, spun me out, then bout 4-5 other 8th scale buggies SLAMMED into my car, spinning it throwing it etc. This was all at the end of the straight away we have. Now, if any of you question the durability of the XXX4 G+, you shouldnt. The only thing that broke was the shock tower, NOTHING else. These are so much stronger than the XXX4 kit.

[KevanB]

Would ANYONE here be willing to trade their xxx-4 for a yokomo mr4tc sedan? Or buy a mr4tc from me?! I REALLY WANT A XXX-4!!:( :D

[TheScum]

Heya,

just got myself the xxx4-G+ and must say its been fantastic putting it together. Require some assistance though...

My front shocks sound squishy. Have rebuilt them a coupla times but to no avail. Shafts are not bent or scrateched and have followed the instructions to the T. The rear shocks seem to be fine but comparing this to my VoneRR Evo, the VoneRR's shocks are ultra quiet and super smooth. I guess this one's ought to boil down to user inexperience...

Would really appreciate it if someone could set me back on track... thanks

[End Overend]

The squishy shound is generally due to air in your shocks. You can rebuild them if you wish.

If it's not excessive and I can't feel any gaps in the damping of the shock from top to bottom I generally don't worry about it as long as the action is smooth.

[microrcdude]

what your suppost to do is when you put the shock cap on, set it ontop of where it goes, and push the shock shaft up to the top. Then, tighten the shock cap. It releases the air that is inside the shock.

[TheScum]

thanks for the input microrcdude & End Overend,

but i don't think thats it coz i've followed these suggestions and they're exactly like those found in the instructions. i've re-built this at least a dozen times.

a bit of background....
The shafts don't appear scratched or bent, and despite several re-builds, air somehow manages to get in. Regardless to say i've followed the instructions down to the T. Have tried putting some green slime on the insides of the o-rings for better lubrication and sealing but to no avail, Have also replace the cartridges for the fronts, but again i was unsuccessful. During the last rebuild i tried moving the shock cartridge along the piston (just as to see whether the shock was true, this was done with a tab of shock oil, of course) and the piston action was not really quiet or smooth.

Just to give you an idea, i tried comparing the shocks against that of my VoneRR Evo and must say there's a world of difference. Those shocks are ultra-quiet. The rear shocks don't sound as bad as the front, but they are still not as smooth as the Evo's. (built this with an air-remover for 1/10 on-road shocks, if only there were 1/10 off-road shock air-removers)

But all the same, i'll try building the front shocks again tonight and in the worst case scenario, do you think it be possible to use Associated B4 shocks for the XXX-4.



Another request....

From where i'm from its pretty difficult to get the American standards for shock oil. Ours are rated on the Japanese System. As such, would it be possible to furnish me with the conversion rates (if any) between the two.


Thanks

[TheScum]

heya guys,

btw i tried rebuilding all 4 last night, and lo and behold when i was dumping the shock oil out, there were no bubbles, i think that sound was from the piston rubbing against the cartridge.

Thanks again for your time and help

[pumpkinfish]

I am new to 4WD buggies and I need help choosing tires. Step pins work best at my local tracks when I run 2wd Stadium Trucks. What tires front and rear will be best? I have looked at both Losi and Proline tires and I am confused! I use Losi Step Pins red or silver (depending what is in stock) and get good traction in my electric and nitro Stadium Trucks. My tracks are loamy, loose conditions.

[End Overend]

I would suggest Losi IFMAR pin tires. For me they have hooked up really well on looser/loamy dirt.

Also don't be afraid to mix and match front and rear tires. Maybe something like IFMAR pins up front and Step Pins in the rear.

[cabbynate]

Yea, what endover said.;)

[nitrojunkee]

Would anyone be interested in trading a xxx4 for a Ntc3 ? Its in good shape, sirio .12 outlaw, dynomite tuned exhaust system, 2 sets of foams, and more. Anyone??
Mark.

[BlutoSigPi]

Don't know if you guys would be able to help me or not but I picked up a set of Trinity 1 deg rear hub carriers. Each one has a 1 marked on a side. I'm also using a losi aluminum 1deg rear pivot. So I'm trying to accomplish 2 degs of toe-in on the rear. So the hubs should be used with the "1" marking towards the front of the car right? That's how I have it set up right now...and it looks right...but I'm having trouble eyeballing 2degs. Thanks guys.

[Aluma]

You're not kidding...my drake shocks are like that...I could never get them to work just right no matter how carefully I followed the directions or the advice of others. I've given up on losi shocks! blah!:P I almost bought a set of the RC10GT shocks for it, but decided to put it up for sale instead. My tamiya TRF shocks on the other hand... WOOW!!! perfect evertime...and last quite a while before having to do any rebuilding.

Man...I want a XXX4 really bad, but now that I remember bout them shocks...eek!

Originally posted by TheScum
thanks for the input microrcdude & End Overend,

but i don't think thats it coz i've followed these suggestions and they're exactly like those found in the instructions. i've re-built this at least a dozen times.

a bit of background....
The shafts don't appear scratched or bent, and despite several re-builds, air somehow manages to get in. Regardless to say i've followed the instructions down to the T. Have tried putting some green slime on the insides of the o-rings for better lubrication and sealing but to no avail, Have also replace the cartridges for the fronts, but again i was unsuccessful. During the last rebuild i tried moving the shock cartridge along the piston (just as to see whether the shock was true, this was done with a tab of shock oil, of course) and the piston action was not really quiet or smooth.

Just to give you an idea, i tried comparing the shocks against that of my VoneRR Evo and must say there's a world of difference. Those shocks are ultra-quiet. The rear shocks don't sound as bad as the front, but they are still not as smooth as the Evo's. (built this with an air-remover for 1/10 on-road shocks, if only there were 1/10 off-road shock air-removers)

But all the same, i'll try building the front shocks again tonight and in the worst case scenario, do you think it be possible to use Associated B4 shocks for the XXX-4.



Another request....

From where i'm from its pretty difficult to get the American standards for shock oil. Ours are rated on the Japanese System. As such, would it be possible to furnish me with the conversion rates (if any) between the two.


Thanks :eek: :eek: :eek:

[jkerr0043]

Anyone have any setups to share for a tight, fairly rough track with a loamy moist surface. I just got the G+ about a month ago. I've had it out on the track for three test sessions and am coming up with a setup but it's coming fairly slowly.

The first thing I did was loose the rear swaybar and raise the rear oil to 30 and go with yellow in the read to clam it down. That helped a bunch but it's not quite there yet. I've also moved both the front and rear shocks to the outer holes on the arms and tower. Still better. I'm looking for a little more stable (because of the bumpy track) but agressive turn in. I'm going to try 10* of kick up tonight.

Anyone play with the ackerman and/or bump steer on this thing yet?

[t3racerx]

what parts do the xxxs and xxx4 share??? I just got done converting my xxxs standard kit into a g+ and I want to build a xxx4 and was just wondering what all would work.
thanks

[jkerr0043]

Diffs and diff covers. I think the really is about it. The chassis is longer so that's no good. belts, arms, etc... are all longer.

[cabbynate]

BlutoSigPi,

The Trinity 1dg rear hubs will give you 3dg toe in the rear. The "1" should be pointing to the rear of the car. The stock hubs are 0dg. The stock toe in is 2dg. Most off-road racer prefer 3dg rear to in. Most of the team Losi guys run 3dg on there XXX-4's.

The 1dg Losi rear hinge pin mount is for anti squat.
;)

[Aluma]

I'm getting a XXX-4 G+ very soon...almost payday... :D

what hopups do y'all think I should get with it...might as well put them in while I'm building it.
Part numbers would help too... THANK YOU!

I read somewhere about an aluminum front pivot block? DPM arms? carbon braces? other stuff?

[End Overend]

Aluma,

Since you are getting the G+ version the only upgrades you really need are the aluminum hinge pin holders (pivot blocks).

The inside blocks are easy to get since there are only one set of those.

The outside blocks are a bit harder since there are three different ones for the front and two for the rear (at $15.00 - $20.00 a piece it can get expensive). You will need to figure out which one you are going to use to most and pick that one up.

I personally use the 10 degree in the front and just use the plastic ones in the rear.

DPM A-Arms are great and personally I love mine. They are super beefy compared to the stock arm or the G+ arms and breakage isn't a worry with these. Getting a set may be a problem though as I've heard from several people that he is discontinuing making them. This is of course a rumor that I've heard from one hobby shop and a buddy of mine but I got a set not more than three weeks ago, so who knows. They should be well worth the money if you can get a set though.

On a side not I found the new G+ A-Arms to be plenty strong.

The shock towers on the G+ are excellent and I have no worries about breaking one of those.

The G+ comes very well equiped and the only real additions you should make are the aluminum hinge pin holders, the rest is just gravy.

[Aluma]

since I dont have one yet, what exactly does changing the front pivot blocks do? adjust bump handling like a touring car...by angleing the arms up, or do the blocks open the arms out and giving more toe in/out?

[jkerr0043]

It changes kick up which chhanges your overall castor and bump steer.

[BlutoSigPi]

Originally posted by cabbynate
BlutoSigPi,

The Trinity 1dg rear hubs will give you 3dg toe in the rear. The "1" should be pointing to the rear of the car. The stock hubs are 0dg. The stock toe in is 2dg. Most off-road racer prefer 3dg rear to in. Most of the team Losi guys run 3dg on there XXX-4's.

The 1dg Losi rear hinge pin mount is for anti squat.
;)

You da man...thank you sir!

One last question for you guru's out there....

What does swapping the rear A-arms left to right do? I've seen this done more than once now.

[jkerr0043]

I think the manual actually mentioned it too.

[End Overend]

Generally it's done when you put the G+ rear shock tower on the regular XXX-4.

The G+ shock tower mounts the shocks to the back of the tower instead of the front. With the reversal of mounting it needs the A-Arm shock mounting positions to be mounted on the reverse side.

Not sure of any other reason to turn them around.

[cabbynate]

Yea, what endover said.:D

[BlutoSigPi]

Sweet...just checkin. Thanks man.

[losifreak107]

hello i was wondering if the ipc v7.1 will fit and i race stock novice with a xxx-t mf and i'm pretty fast (4th place) if i got this buggy what class do i race in (there is no 4wheel class) if i put a stock motor in it can i race the pro stock guys and how durable is it? :D thanks for the help

[End Overend]

hello i was wondering if the ipc v7.1 will fit and i race stock novice with a xxx-t mf and i'm pretty fast (4th place) if i got this buggy what class do i race in (there is no 4wheel class) if i put a stock motor in it can i race the pro stock guys and how durable is it? thanks for the help

Not sure about the IPC v7.1 fitting or not.

With the XXX-4 you will generally have to race in the 4wd buggy class. If there isn't enough to make a class a lot of the time club level races will let you run with the 2wd buggy class.

Also generally I've only seen modified 4wd buggy classes, and rarely if ever see stock class 4wd classes. I suppose that a stock class motor just doesn't produce enough power to really use the extra traction of the 4wd.

As far as durability goes, with a few modifications the XXX-4 is very durable, the XXX-4 G+ is very durable out of the box.

Check with your local track to see if they would allow the XXX-4 in other classes if they don't have a 4wd buggy class. If so, it's a great little buggy.

[Aluma]

my XXX-4 G+ should be in soon... anyone tried out different shocks on it? :D I'll give the losi's a shot, maybe I'll get them right this time. Oh yeah, I'm going to be using a monster stock pro motor on it, what pinion should I have ready for it? or atleast close.

[End Overend]

Aluma,

Honestly, I've found that I like the Losi shocks much more than other brands that I've used. The Losi stay much cleaner, much longer than my Associated shocks did. They also feel smoother to me.

As far as pinion goes, not sure, but I'd suggest having a 21 through 24 tooth available. You might try e-mailing Trinity to find out what they recomend.

[Aluma]

okay, well, maybe you can help me out...OR is this normal...

I have a Drake truck with threaded shock bodies. after cleaning, filling, bleeding the oil, and shutting the cap snuggly, I pull the rod out all the way and it immediately goes back in. After one run of 5 mins, I take the spring off and pull the rod out again,...this time it just stays all way out. I mean is that normal? I know with my TRF touring shocks, if you push the rod in and it comes out all the way, then they are still 100% working well.... someone told me that Losi shocks are the opposite, pull the rod out and it should go back in...that indicates 100% working shocks...otherwise you have to rebuild them. That's the reason I dont like the Losi's....doesnt make sense to have to rebuild shocks after every qualifier! geez, I'd run out of oil every race.
And it's not the caps or seals either...I bought a rebuild shock kit and put those on too...even new they do the same thing. So is that normal operation for losi's?

[End Overend]

Aluma,

In my opinion, you are stressing about a non issue with your shocks, at least in the realm of off road.

Generally when building my shocks with Losi all I do is fill up the shock body assemble the shock, tighten the damper cap down most of the way (not complete), compress the shock, wipe away the excess fluid and tighten the damper cap completly.

With this when you first assemble the shock it will pull back in a little with no spring on the shock. After the first run however this won't take place.

Off road shocks take a beating compared to road shocks. When is the last time you launched your road car 4 feet in the air on a consistant basis?

The pulling in of the shock when first built (or pushing out) is because the shocks haven't been worked much and there is still pressure in the shock. When you run a pack through them, you work them and releive this pressure which is why it doesn't do it any longer.

The big thing I've found with Losi shocks compared to Associated is the inside of the damper stays much cleaner with the Losi. I could go through one run with my Associated shocks on my B3 and have the oil contaminated with dirt or small bits of aluminum from the inside of the shock body wearing out. With Losi I can run multiple packs before noticing any contamination at all.

I've also heard people complain about their shocks sounding squishy when compressed. This isn't a big deal with off road shocks. They have long strokes and have to move through a lot more oil than on road shocks. You will hear a little of the oil move through the damper holes on off road shocks. If there is a little air in the shock it will become very noticible. It however isn't a big deal, because after a single run you are going to loose a small amount of oil which is going to add air to your shock.

Rebuild them as often as you wish, but you are not going to see any performance gain doing it after every run compared to once a month or longer. I re-fill my shock oil once every month or two, but generally leave them alone unless I can tell that their performance had deteriorated. A rebuild will take place once ever 3-6 months depending on how much driving I've been doing and the conditions I've been driving in.

[Aluma]

OH OKAY!!! dude I was stressing cuz of that squishy sound and loss of pressure...so I guess it is normal, and since it doesnt affect the handling then its okay. LOL

weird though, my buddies MST-1 truck has those buggy shocks that dont squish and retain their pressure after several runs....since the losi was my first nitro truck and I'd seen my buddies, I thought something was wrong with the shocks.

Thanks.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by TheScum
do you think it be possible to use Associated B4 shocks for the XXX-4.
Yeah, it's possible. Theres a guy here that did that. I thaught that losi shocks were smoother than associated shocks?

[XR Mugen]

Hello !

I hope everyone is well !

Currently, I am running a XXX-4 with a Speed Gems Chromium 16t, a GP3300 7 cell pack, and Quantum Reverse speed control with a Magnum PCM radio. When the car is going full speed on the road and I hit the brakes, sometimes the belt slips three clicks or so. Is this normal or should I tighten the belt a bit more? I am trying to avoid overtightening the belt. Also, how many runs can you get out of a belt before you replace it ?

Thanks !

[jkerr0043]

Yes, it's normal for the belt to click under braking on this car.

[End Overend]

As stated, it is normal for the belt to slip 2-3 teeth when undergoing hard braking (states this in the manual as well).

Your belt would appear to be set up fine.

As far as belt life, it appears most people change their belt every 6 months or so. I've had mine for a little over 2 months now and have been averaging 6-8 packs (48-60 packs through it so far) a week at the track and have no real noticible signs of wear. This is with a Novak Brushless motor and some hard driving.

[BlutoSigPi]

How many of you guys are running a one way in the front? What are your thoughts...needed..not needed? My XX-4 has that clicker built in but this car doesn't. Any observations about how the one way affects the car?

[Performance RC]

Whats your guys take on the XXX-4 G+. I want to get one. And put stock arms, and front towers on it. Whats the durability like?
Whats the maintnece like? Does stuff get insid ethe belt color? Whats are the ups and downs of this buggy? Be truthful.

My local off-road track is Minnreg, same as where the XXX-4 won the world. So it should be at home there. :)

[Losidude63]

Hey guys...i just recently got back from a stay in Canada, and while i was driving around the other day i noticed a clicking sound coming from somewhere in the drive train. I've Checked the spur gear, no rocks or "foreign Objects", but i did notice unusual wear on the spur gear and some dirt and "muck" on the bottom of the drive channel....any tips would be great...the sound is driving me nuts and i think its slowing my car down too.....:mad:

[jkerr0043]

Change the spur and pinion both. That would be the first thing I do.

[Aluma]

are there any other types of wheels that'll fit the XXX-4 other than the white 5 spokes from the XX-4 and the yellow dish wheels it comes with?

[End Overend]

Losidude63,

Your best bet is to dissassemble the drivetrain and reassemble it systematically. Look for broken or bent parts, striped out gears, etc. If you don't find anything and assemble it correctly and you still have the problem then it might not be in the drivetrain. Basically just tackle the problem one piece at a time..

Aluma,

I haven't seen any other wheels out there that would work on the XXX-4. One thing that you can do is dye the white wheels any color you wish. Some boiling water and some food coloring will do the trick. put all the wheels in at the same time and try and remove them at the same time. The longer you keep them in the darker the color will be.

Personally the yellow wheels work great for me since I'm an Oregon Ducks fan and my car is green and yellow :D

[jkerr0043]

Yeloow didn't exactly go with the white pink and blue of my body. I was very happy when my local shop got some white dishes in.

[Aluma]

oh yeah, I was checking out the tires available...my track is usually loamy and soft when running at night, but sometimes packed and dusty when sunny and hot. I used to use steppins for my drake truck, so I figured steppins would be the way to go with the XXX-4 in the rear tires, but front? losi studs? losi ifmars?