XXX-S Forum v2.0

[TSR6]

Originally posted by speedy gonnalo
Just shut up.

Thats not nice...

Spenz - Have any info on the 3400's? I still haven't seen one, or any information on them. :(

[TSR6]

new page.. I'll do the honors..

TOWER DOESNT CARRY LOSI
SPUR / PINION ) * 1.83
BUY A HEX WRENCH SET!

[spenzalii]

Ask Bruce (bruce@batteryteam.com) for some info. I saw them on a search on E-bay looking for some cheap prackice cells and figures, why not. These things are hot! At $5 a cell, I'll be making another pack soon

[xxxkat]

Are they legal ?

[spenzalii]

Not sur on that. I think so; I remember a message he sent telling me at a few races they had to tech the car and see how they were running so hard so long. They pack a nice punch, that's for sure. He says he's trying to get the word out on a small scale before trying to take on Trinity. Drop him a line, he will respond

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Are they legal ?

i can almost garentee they are not roar legal.

It sounds like nobody really knows about these cells? They have to be submitted by a company, which i doubt has been done, because none of the big names match the cells

[speedy gonnalo]

:)

[spenzalii]

Here's the response I just got:
Spencer you can get more info at www.hawkrc.com. The reason no matchers have them is they are brand new. As a matter of fact the cells you got off E-bay were from the initial prototype runs. Full production has just started on these cells. The cell you have has been re-labeled to a 3000, and a new 3400 is being produced. The reason for this is: The hobby industry uses different rating scales than the battery industry. The RC cells on the market are rated at 10C (10x capacity) Battery industry as well as the rest of the world uses C/10 (1/10th the capacity). So to be on the same scale we re-labeled them. As for #'s - The benefit of the HAWK cells is they have a flatter discharge curve. Their initial peak voltage may be slightly lower than a pushed or matched GP pack, but the HAWK will hold it's voltage through the whole race.

Hope this Helps. The web site is brand new, so please ignore any typo's.

Sincerely,

Bruce Wall
HAWK R/C

[speedy gonnalo]

cool

[TSR6]

Spenz - I find this VERY interesting. You e-mailed him at the address posted above? I might have to drop him a message.

Can I ask how much you paid for your cells? Didn't you mention they aren't matched a while back? Do they offer matched cells?

My curiousity is about to kill me :)

speedy gonnallo - please, if you aren't going to post something with meaning, don't post at all. :rolleyes:

[LouisB]

Well it looks like speedy's gone <cough>Go mods!</cough> I wonder if JR will come back now ;)

These 3400s sound good, but I'm fine with my new 33s. I'm tempted to buy an 8 turn armature for one of my old cans to see what single figure power is like. In the last month or so I've gone past the copper on 2 13x2s, an 11x3 and a 12x1. I bought a 10 double for my XXX-S and have a 12x2 and 12x5 lurking around for off-road duty.

[spenzalii]

TRS6- $5 a cell. For the money, I figured I couldn't beat it. So I made a 7 cell pack for speed runs. All told, $41 shipped to my door (if I remember correctly). Did you check the website? It has a bit more info, although I'm not sure if they have the matched cells. And yep, that's the e-mail address. Got the response in less than 30 minutes.

LouisB: What arms/cans are you using? I have a 12x2 p94 which I love, and a Speedgems pro 9x2 just to play around with. The spoolup takes a bit, but the top speed is quite nice

[jkerr0043]

I've run 9X1's before. Lots of power but the thing I noticed the most was the power coming off the corner. :eek: It took a while to learn to handle it. I had to really feather the throttle a lot. Plus I was a little loose to begin with so that didn't help.

[LouisB]

Mostly Orion/Peak, I've got a load of standup brushes and don't feel like changing them just yet, but if the performance is good enough I might be convinced.

Anyone tried an Epic Binary yet (are they even out?)

[spenzalii]

I'd go get one, but I'm saving up for a brushless setup. Most likely the Novak; not the most powerful, but best integrated

[TSR6]

Yeah, Bruce sure is fast on the e-mails ;)

I'm sad to see Speedy Gonallo go. Who else am i going to ridicule? Who else is going to come in to post nonsence crap every time? Hopefully nobody, but I might actually miss that bugger... ok, maybe not. :)

[spenzalii]

Sounds like an interesting tradeoff, doesn't it? You loose a little off the top compared to matched/zapped batteries, but you get consistent voltage thru the battery charge. AND they don't break the bank, either. Thinking about getting a few?

And yes, let's all have a moment of silence for speedy.....



OK that's that, back to inteligent conversation:D

[talon51]

Hallelujah, he's gone!!! I'm suprized he lasted that long...

Anyway, I'm looking to lighten up my XXX-S, it a beast, weighs like 3.4 lbs. without the transponder. Its the original XXX-S, btw. First on my list was gonna be an aluminum screw kit, Ti is a bit much too much $$$ right now. Any recommendations as to who makes a good kit, or who to avoid?

Thanks,
Talon

[thedominator]

This is probably why Speedy got banned
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1090106#post1090106

[TSR6]

Originally posted by talon51
Hallelujah, he's gone!!! I'm suprized he lasted that long...

Anyway, I'm looking to lighten up my XXX-S, it a beast, weighs like 3.4 lbs. without the transponder. Its the original XXX-S, btw. First on my list was gonna be an aluminum screw kit, Ti is a bit much too much $$$ right now. Any recommendations as to who makes a good kit, or who to avoid?

Thanks,
Talon

Talon - I frown on using a whole AL screw kit. Some of the areas on the XXX-S are too high-stress to use AL screws. You really only want AL screws in areas that aren't stressed, and areas that you don't remove often.

[spenzalii]

Sounds like only the bottom cover and the shock tower mounts to me...

[Mr.sorryman]

I'm back to give abig sorry. Yes,also known as sg

[Mr.sorryman]

Now that i am back,don't get into a http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/dogpile.gif

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Sounds like only the bottom cover and the shock tower mounts to me...

I had AL screws in my battery hold-down posts, and on the server mounts.

Sorryman - I give you less than 6 hours. Enjoy it while it lasts.:rolleyes:

[talon51]

Wow, that musta been the shortest lived membership in history...

TSR6,
Thanks for the feedback, guess I'll have to look into Ti screws then, any recommendations?

Talon

[TSR6]

Originally posted by talon51
Wow, that musta been the shortest lived membership in history...

TSR6,
Thanks for the feedback, guess I'll have to look into Ti screws then, any recommendations?

Talon

www.kthobbies.com normally has Ti Racing screws, but they are out of stock. Give Kraig an e-mail, or a call and I'm sure he can probably order a set for you.

[spenzalii]

Once more, this time with verve:


TOWER DOESNT CARRY LOSI
SPUR / PINION ) * 1.83
BUY A HEX WRENCH SET!

[spenzalii]

Now that I'm thinking about it, I have a question, and yes this is going to sound dumb...

OK, I pretty much figured out that the car is tweaked in the rear. It will swing to the right a lot harder than to the left (almost to the point of spinning out). Looking at the rear, I swear the left is lower than the right, even with the shocks the same height, leading me to believe one of the hinge pins is bent (yes/no?). I have to go up to the store and pick up some more ball ends anyway (they gave me the LONG shank ones, grrr...) to take out the massive slop in the steering (the car will not ttrack straight if it wants to. Depending on what turn you just made, it will track that way). I managed to bag a Integy setup system and a Hudy decal. This will help me get the car straight, but I HAVE NO CLUE HOW TO USE THE THING! Any help will be appreciated on this guys.

[LouisB]

You can cut down the long shank ball ends and they'll work perfectly (what i'm using at the moment).

It might be a bent hinge-pin, you'll have to take them out and roll them along a piece of glass to check. Is this with the droop set correctly?

Are there any instructions with the set-up station? I would think bolting the plates on instead of the wheels would be a good first step :p

[xxxkat]

Talon51,I would think you would be better off buying the graphite conversion kit rather than the ti screw kit,The screw kit is $70 and I have seen the graphite kit for $90,I have what I would consider a "trick" G Plus, it has just about everything you can put on a xxxs and it still weighs 52.1oz (with transponder)My other xxxs is a conversion kit with all the G Plus stuff on it and it weighs 53.2(with transponder)and thats the xxxs I like to race,for some strange reason it just works better than my G Plus does ?? The point I was getting at is the weight difference is only 1.1oz but the cost difference is $150, is 1.1oz worth that much more money..??(all weights were with GP 3300's) For me I'm thinking it was not,but for someone else it might be. :cool:

[TSR6]

Spenz - Make sure all the shocks are the same lenth, make sure droop is the same all the way around

As far as preload works, it may not always be even. I usually have to crank down the right side about 1/2 a turn or so just to switch to GP cells!

I set the collars to ride height, not to the same position on the shock. They should be close, but not always exactly the same

[spenzalii]

Well, the droop isn't in question because I screwed them all the way back, so the arms aren't making contact with them. I'll take the pin out to make sure; I just never have the time for a teardown or too lazy.

I really don't want to cut the ends down, because I never get them the same length. And yes, I can screw the pieces together and put them in the car (everybody's a comedian...:rolleyes: ) After that, I'm stuck. when I try adjust ing the turnbuckles, the setup pieces move, too! I can't be sure what the true reading is.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
I really don't want to cut the ends down, because I never get them the same length. And yes, I can screw the pieces together and put them in the car (everybody's a comedian...:rolleyes: ) After that, I'm stuck. when I try adjust ing the turnbuckles, the setup pieces move, too! I can't be sure what the true reading is.

I never go off what the ball ends tell me, I go off what my camber guage tells me. :p

[bashbrook]

I finally stripped my plastic servo that came with my MX-3 that is in my XXXS. What is a good affordable metal gear servo for stock racing?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by bashbrook
I finally stripped my plastic servo that came with my MX-3 that is in my XXXS. What is a good affordable metal gear servo for stock racing?

Something along the lines of a Hitec HS605MG or HS645MG would probably suit your needs. They both should be under $60.

[xxxkat]

JR 590 it's $39 and they work fine,I have had problems in the past with hi tech servos,their digital servos are real good.Futaba 9305 is also a good one($38).

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
JR 590 it's $39 and they work fine,I have had problems in the past with hi tech servos,their digital servos are real good.Futaba 9305 is also a good one($38).

Only Hitec I've had a problem with was a HS-303 with a frayed wire, which was my fault for not routing the wireing correctly.

[xxxkat]

I have had alot of centering problems with the 605mg and the 645mg and at the track I race at other racers have had the same problems,In fact the hobby shop quit carring the 605 and 645 for that reason,They still sell the digitals but that's it.I know that alot of people have had good luck with the 605 and the 645 but I'm not one of them and I dont personally know anyone who has had any luck with them,but thats just my take on the 605 & 645,I just think that the JR 590mg is a better servo because it does not have any centering problems that hi tech seems to. :cool:

[LouisB]

I had a 645MG die on me during a final (buggies) but I have a Hitec digital which works great for 1/8 Nitro. JR makes great servos but I would go for a KO 712/713 for the XXX-S. I don't know how much it is in the US but it's one of their cheapest servos, but it's very reliable and quite quick. I used a 712 in my Losi for over a year and it performed perfectly. I now run a KO 2173 and it's just right in terms of speed and torque, and it has metal gears.

[bashbrook]

I will check out the KO line of servos. I cannot find info on the JR 590 anywhere. I have done quite a bit searching on Google and found very little info on JR in general. I can't even find the companies home page.

[xxxkat]

JR radio info is at www.horizonhobby.com

[bashbrook]

Thanks!

[spenzalii]

The latest RCCA has a mod for the steering rack that I may try. Instead of having the steering link attach on the left of the drag link, he attached it to the middle. That may help setting up my servo, which doesn't like to star straight at all.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
The latest RCCA has a mod for the steering rack that I may try. Instead of having the steering link attach on the left of the drag link, he attached it to the middle. That may help setting up my servo, which doesn't like to star straight at all.

Spenz - I saw that mod, but I have servo centering down pat, since I take the servo out of the car once a week. ( Uhg! :rolleyes: ) I just center the servo with my X-S setup on the radio, shut it all off, and put the saver on direct center with the linkage attatched. :p

Concerning HS Servos - I have 3 HS605BB servos. Throttle & Steering in my RS4 Racer2, and it's the Throttle / Brake on my MTX-3. I used it as a steering servo on my xxx-s before dropping it into the MTX-3, and have never had a problem with any of them. :)

[BROJR]

Is it worth the 90+$ to change to the graphite for racing?

[LouisB]

The graphite conversion kit made a big difference for me, the best prices are at KT Hobbies (http://www.kthobbies.com) and Stormer Hobbies (http://www.stormerhobbies.com)

The graphite chassis alone shouldn't cost $90

It makes the car more responsive to set-up changes and carries more cormer speed. I suppose it depends on the driver as to how much difference you actually notice but I noticed a huge improvement in handling.

[spenzalii]

Strange. I have a 605BB in mine and have a dickens of a time getting the thing centered with my XR3. Maybe it's the 24 tooth spline, or maybe it's just supposed to have the subtrim set +-15 either way to straighten things out. GO fig.

Well, I finally got some bench time with my XXXS. I rebuilt the CVD's (the fronts were squeeking), diffs and replaced the thrust bearing balls with the disks that Losi makes (so much easier). The front end was a mess. One of the ball ends was partially stripped out of the steering knuckle on one side, and the camber link was loose on the other. Since I had the RPM ball cups, I just cut them down as was suggested (I was too lazy to go exchange them at the LHS) and got rid of the captured ball ends, which were adding all kinds of slop to a already sloppy setup. Everything is set to -1 deg. camber and I'll set the toe tomorrow when there's light (and I'm sober). Hopefully, it will give me a better ride. I hate neglecting my XXXS like that, but between the LD3 and the soon-to-be wife, I didn't have the time to focus on it. I'll see how she runs later today

[xxxkat]

I hate to say it..but the only way to get the centering problem fixed is get a different servo,I fought with mine (605)and never could get it to center.Right now I'm running a JR590 with just a servo horn and have had no problems for 9mo.With the hi tech 605 I was using the stock servo saver and had nothing but problems.If I waste a servo from running just a horn it's no big deal..heck I pay just about the same money for a stock motor and I dont run them for 9mo.,I have spare motors in my tool box,why not carry spare radio gear.. :cool:

[porscheman]

I have a question and im sry if it has been asked before its just that i cant read through the entire xxx-s forum.
I am lookin to upgrade my shocks to threaded and 2 different sets are offered .28" complete titanium set and a .36" threaded set. and i was wondering what the difference is and how it will affect me. i race on a fairly smooth parking lot, and i was jsut wondering which would suit me better.
thanks for you help
and also...can i use .36" shafts in the .28" shocok set?

[xxxkat]

You use the .28's in the front and the .36's in the rear.No you can not use the .36's shaft in the .28 body,wont work the way it's intended to.

[Midnight2Night]

Hey guys, guess what.... I just got a midnight 2 motor. I was wondering what pinion and spur gear i should use. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan

[TSR6]

Originally posted by porscheman
I have a question and im sry if it has been asked before its just that i cant read through the entire xxx-s forum.
I am lookin to upgrade my shocks to threaded and 2 different sets are offered .28" complete titanium set and a .36" threaded set. and i was wondering what the difference is and how it will affect me. i race on a fairly smooth parking lot, and i was jsut wondering which would suit me better.
thanks for you help
and also...can i use .36" shafts in the .28" shocok set?

You want .28 in the front, .36 in the rear.

If you run the Trinity or Speedtech ( or cut the stock pivont mounts ) to the TRUE low roll center, then you need to run .36 bodies in the front with the .28 shafts. Without the longer bodies, it limits your droop settings. This only applies to the True low roll center, and not the "Losi-Low" or mid-roll center.

As Kat said, no.. don't. The piston would be stuck at the very top of the shock in the air, i would assume.


Midnight - I would gear it close to whatever you use for a P2k. It depends on your track size. If it were to tell you anything more without knowing your track's size, i would be pulling numbers out of my ass. :)

[spenzalii]

Well, new page, same questions (sort of). So here we go:

TOWER DOESNT CARRY LOSI
SPUR / PINION ) * 1.83
BUY A HEX WRENCH SET!
SHORT SHOCKS IN THE FRONT ONLY


That said, I've got to get the car on the setup board and figure out what it's doing. I'm seriously debating on dropping the servo saver altogether and just running a nylon or aluminum servo arm. I need to get another body to boot. I bought an Altima and painted it and it turned out better than I wanted it tto, so I can't run it! (I'll have the pics up soon)

I'm getting married this weekend so I will be coming into a bit of money (I hope) which the wife-to-be will let me spend on RC stuff (you gotta love that! Now to figure out do I get the starter box I needed, the air compressor, a good battery charger and some more 3400s (The Vision Pro is getting a bit old) or the Novak SS Brushless setup? So many choices, so little time...

[xxxkat]

As far as the servo saver goes,I dont run one..but I do carry a spare servo..:D I have been racing this way for almost a year and have yet to harm a servo.

[Midnight2Night]

Originally posted by TSR6
You want .28 in the front, .36 in the rear.

If you run the Trinity or Speedtech ( or cut the stock pivont mounts ) to the TRUE low roll center, then you need to run .36 bodies in the front with the .28 shafts. Without the longer bodies, it limits your droop settings. This only applies to the True low roll center, and not the "Losi-Low" or mid-roll center.

As Kat said, no.. don't. The piston would be stuck at the very top of the shock in the air, i would assume.


Midnight - I would gear it close to whatever you use for a P2k. It depends on your track size. If it were to tell you anything more without knowing your track's size, i would be pulling numbers out of my ass. :) I don't have a p2k and i run in mississippi at a track calledsmall cars unlimited (http://www.smallcarsunlimited.com) :)Chech it out<-

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Midnight2Night
I don't have a p2k and i run in mississippi at a track calledsmall cars unlimited (http://www.smallcarsunlimited.com) :)Chech it out<-

I'm going to guess somewhere between like 7.3 and 7.8 for the gear ratio.

It's only a guess, so if you try it, pull the car off the track after a couple laps and make sure its not over or undergeared.

[Midnight2Night]

And that would be what pinion gear and what spur..I'm not too good on this....:rolleyes:

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Midnight2Night
And that would be what pinion gear and what spur..I'm not too good on this....:rolleyes:

Spur / Pinion x 1.83 gives you the ratio. It's been posted countless times on this thread. Trust me..\

a good starting point would be 21(7.6) or 22(7.32)... just keep checking the motor to make sure you arent over or undergeared...

[grimlock3000]

i understand how to get a specific gear ratio with a certain pinion/spur combination. i would like to know if there is there a reccomended sedan gearing chart anywhere for specific motors? something like this...

p2k2 - 7.5
green machine 3 - 8.1
reedy ti 10x2 11.5
etc, etc, etc

i just pulled those numbers out of thin air for the example chart. particularly with stock motors, gearing can vary by 3 or 4 teeth from one motor to the next. it would be nice to see one of these so people would know what pinions to buy with new motors. i usually find the gearing charts that come with kits could be a lot better. obviously, everything is just a starting point, and it varies by track, but having the baseline numbers is always good. thanks.

[xxxkat]

I think the biggest problem with a specific gearing chart would be all the different size tracks we race on.As a rule I try to gear my car to the track,and what I mean by that is if their is alot of turns and not to many straights I will start out at around 7.35 and see how my car works and fine tune from their,on a big track with alot of long straights I start at around 6.35 and fine tune from their,This works for me.:cool:

[spenzalii]

It's been posted countless times on this thread. Trust me..

Someone usually does the honors around the first 5 posts of a new page. I guess some people still aren't looking. Maybe we should try big letters and yellow text...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Someone usually does the honors around the first 5 posts of a new page. I guess some people still aren't looking. Maybe we should try big letters and yellow text...

The bigger the better...:D

[LouisB]

This is crazy, I won again today, people might start beating me up if I keep this up :eek:

Very close, I got TQ by half a second in the final round, and in the final I made a good start and just stayed ahead by a couple of seconds and I couldn't be caught. I kept it clean and made no mistakes, the car almost drove itself. That'll teach those pesky little TC3s :D

[crono man]

hey guys i can get a good deal on a slightly used xxxs(not graphite edition)

is the old xxxs(non graphite edition) still a viable racing car against the TC3s and such?

[The_In_Kid]

Originally posted by LouisB
This is crazy, I won again today, people might start beating me up if I keep this up :eek:

Very close, I got TQ by half a second in the final round, and in the final I made a good start and just stayed ahead by a couple of seconds and I couldn't be caught. I kept it clean and made no mistakes, the car almost drove itself. That'll teach those pesky little TC3s :D

whats your setup anyway?

[LouisB]

I have a set-up sheet on the comp, I posted it on some forum (here or RC Tech) so I'll dig it up. I've made a few changes too.

EDIT: here (http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/xxxssetup.jpg)

EDIT #2: I now run a Peak 10x2 at 18/86. I've also moved the rear shocks to hole #1, if the back end is still loose then move the lower mounting point to the inside on the arm. When it's slippery I've found the most effective way to get grip is to reduce droop to 2 fr and 4 rr, sometimes even more. It doesn't seem to reduce it's cornering ability, steering response or stability but it stays much more planted.

[xxxkat]

crono man I would say yes,but the stock xxxs is not what I would call a light car like a FT TC-3,You can find some good prices on a graphite conversion kit or you can do some lighting to the stock chassis,one of the first things I would get would be the yellow belt..yes it does make a difference.next would be some .28's(shocks) in the front,then some threaded shocks for the rear.(they make setting the tweak alot easier)I have seen some real nice xxxs going for $125 to $150 and thats with all the good hop up's on them.So if your looking at $75 for a bone stock one that would be still a little on the pricey side compaired to a tricked out one for $125 to $150,remember graphite is not cheap.good luck.

[crono man]

thanks xxxkat

what is the difference between the yellow and blue belt?

[xxxkat]

Well from what I can tell the yellow belt seems to have less drag than the blue belt,the yellow belt does not skip as much on braking(Losi say's belt skip does not hurt the belt)for me it seems to make the xxxs to come out of the corners alot faster,the TC-3's will still be a little quicker getting out of the corners,but the xxxs carry's more speed into the corners plus it feels alot more planted,for me the TC-3 did not fit my style of driving,I tried one(I have had 3 or 4 of them.. :eek: ) never really liked them.The losi fits me alot better,for me I could run faster lap times with the TC-3 but the consistency was not their(it was only 1/10 of a sec. faster)with the xxxs I can run pretty much the same lap times for the whole race,consistency is where it's at.

[jkerr0043]

I felt the same way when I switched from a TC3 to the Losi. Never could get comfortable with the TC3. I spent over a year trying to get a good handle on the TC3. Went and got a G+, ran the box stock setup on the car and was faster and more consistant with it after five laps than I was with the TC3 after more than a year! I've been running it for few months now and I've moved up a class and am running with guys that I've never been able to even think about keeping up with.

[jkerr0043]

By the way guys, check out the new shock towers. You can get them at www.speedtechrc.com

[jkerr0043]

The rear

[jkerr0043]

Last one

[crono man]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Well from what I can tell the yellow belt seems to have less drag than the blue belt,the yellow belt does not skip as much on braking(Losi say's belt skip does not hurt the belt)for me it seems to make the xxxs to come out of the corners alot faster,the TC-3's will still be a little quicker getting out of the corners,but the xxxs carry's more speed into the corners plus it feels alot more planted,for me the TC-3 did not fit my style of driving,I tried one(I have had 3 or 4 of them.. :eek: ) never really liked them.The losi fits me alot better,for me I could run faster lap times with the TC-3 but the consistency was not their(it was only 1/10 of a sec. faster)with the xxxs I can run pretty much the same lap times for the whole race,consistency is where it's at.

Have you ever had the belt skip under heavy accelerations?

Also is the front short shock conversion that important?

thanks again for anwsering my newbie questions:)

[xxxkat]

jkerr,man the shock tower's look way trick..speed tech,looks like I need to get some "new" shock towers.. :D crono man,I have never had a belt skip on acceleration even with a D-5 8 wind on a hooked up track.

[LouisB]

yeah, the new belt makes a big difference. If you've got the driving skills then a standard version shouldn't hold u back too much, but the graphite does improve corner speed and consistency considerably.

i won't be doing much racing for a while, observe (http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/cast.jpg) broken in 2 places

[LouisB]

TOWER DOESNT CARRY LOSI
SPUR / PINION ) * 1.83
BUY A HEX WRENCH SET!
SHORT SHOCKS IN THE FRONT ONLY

[TSR6]

The short shocks in the front help quite a bit. It lowers the piston in the oil, and keeps it away from the air in the top of the shock.

[jkerr0043]

The towers are lighter too and the front has more mounting holes for the camber link. You don't have to see the "hole drilled above and between 2 and 3" on set up sheets. :) But yes, the biggest reason I ordered so quickly was they're sweet lookin'.

[crono man]

this is weird i was looking for replacement bones(shiny or standard)and i noticed mip doesnt seem to make only the bones!

anyone can clear this up


:confused:

[xxxkat]

I dont know about other Losi racers but I did notice a very high wear rate on the stock aluminum(G-Plus)CVD's.The hole for the pin enlarged in about 3 to 4 heats.I went back to the stock steel ones for now.

[crono man]

anyone ever experienced a weird clicking sound when running your car?(not while braking)

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
I dont know about other Losi racers but I did notice a very high wear rate on the stock aluminum(G-Plus)CVD's.The hole for the pin enlarged in about 3 to 4 heats.I went back to the stock steel ones for now.

kat - mine are enlarged, but i bought the car in Jan to replace my original xxx-s. It has quite a few runs on it, so i would expect such wear on my car...

crono - in turning, possibly. The CVD's tend to chatter at full throw, more so on the original xxx-s. I don't beleive it does on my GP+.

If it really bothers you, some people glued a washer onto the inside of the spindle to limit the throw.

[therealdanimal]

jkerr- I'll be in San Diego next week and was wondering where a good place to race is? I was gonna rent a car Tuesday night and drive to SoCal, but that'll be pricey. I get there Sunday and I'll be there through the week.

[creep]

Hey guys! I'm getting a XXX-S rtr off Ebay, but it doesn't come with instruction manuals for the car or the radio. Does anyone Know where I can get them?

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by therealdanimal
jkerr- I'll be in San Diego next week and was wondering where a good place to race is? I was gonna rent a car Tuesday night and drive to SoCal, but that'll be pricey. I get there Sunday and I'll be there through the week.

Unfortunatly there are no on-road races going on next weekend in town. All of the San Diego tracks are parking lot tracks. There is and off road track in Santee (East SD county where I live) the just opened. They're not racing yet but they practice I think every day until 9. It's an outdoor off road track. Would be best to go later in the day because they have no shade. What part of town are you going to be in? The next parking lot race is 9/06 @ Hobby Central. www.hobby101.com

[spenzalii]

Check the Losi site for the directions on the XXX-S. As for the XR2, I'm not too sure on that.

[creep]

Thanks, I'll try that.

[therealdanimal]

Jkerr-in the North Park area of San Diego. I used to live there when I was a kid from '76-'80. Unfortunately I'm leaving the 5th. Oh well. Thanks for the info though.

[jkerr0043]

That's cool. Have fun while you're here and look up the racing next time you're in town.

[therealdanimal]

I'll definately have to do that. What's the big annual on-road race in SoCal called, and when is that. I'd really like to spend some time at that track. I've always heard that the races there are well represented and attended by factory drivers. Is it called the Grand Prix? If for some misfortune you're ever in Utah, let me know, so you can attend some racing. We're pretty competetive here.

[jkerr0043]

So Cal raceway is the home track for a lot of factory guys. It's actually about 100 miles north in Huntington Beach. On any given Saturday night, I've been there and seen, Kinwald, Newman, Tosolini, Baker, Easton, Cavalari, Weiss, Phalen, and tons of other factory guys racing. They almost always have a full pro modified class. Honestly I have no iead what I'd ever be doing in Utah but I'll keep it in mind.

Check out their website. They've got pics of some of the local factory guys and if you look at the results page, you'll see how many factory guys show up.

www.socalrc.com

[smoky]

hey guys i need some help. im working on making a show car of a xxxs. all the red aluminum i can find and any specialty part i can find ant one know where i can kind some red turnbuckles that will fit the xxxs plus do the matt francis ball cups come in a small enough size for the car. any help or ideas on any exotic parts i may not have seen would be great help.thanks alot!!!!!

[smoky]

sorry one more thing im lookin for is red alumium screw set thanks

[spenzalii]

The MF ball cups should fit the ball ends, but you may have to cut down the cups, as I believe they are longer on the truck. Trinity and Dynamite have you covered for most of your red ano'd stuff. Not sure on the turnbuckles. You may want to do red and silver, just to give it some contrast..

[creep]

Just got my XXX-S sport RTR from ebay today and it looks sweet! It only cost me $186 after shipping and it had never been run. But since it doesn't have any directions I have a couple of ??s. Can you run Tamiya or HPI wheels on it? The axles look kinda short and the wheel nuts aren't the same size. Whoever it was that emailed me about the directions, can you email me again? I lost your email address

[spenzalii]

The XXX-S had 2 sets of hex adapters, 10mm for Losi brand wheels and 12mm for standard wheels. WIth the 12mm, the car will accept HPI and Tamiya wheels.

Try www.teamlosi.com for the instruction manual

[creep]

My car only came with 1 set of hexes and I think they are 12mm.

[diesel757]

if you need to get 12mm hexes, then buy the ae ones. they are 1mm thicker(offset) and will allow you to run other tire brands and widths(like grp 30mm rear foams).

anyone suggest a stock motor with better performance than the monster stock. I've ben quite happy with this motor, but not a big fan of trinity motors. I was thinking of trying orion/peak this go around. any opinions on this motor. please only respond if you use and know the difference in these products, thanks.

[diesel757]

hey creep, try losi's low profile locknuts for your axles. these nuts allow the teflon inside the nut to thread on the axles due to their low profile. (equals=your wheels will stay on)

[diesel757]

crono man, check under losi part#'s for cvd's. losi just re-branded.

[jkerr0043]

If you're looking for top end, the Orion is not a good choice. It's more of a high torque motor. I don't think you're going to beat a Monsters top end.

[smoky]

you were right for the show car i got some lusford turnbuckles and also picked up some silver anod parts from speedtech rc. its coming together real sweet its a piece or red and silver beauty i really cant think of any other hopups to get. by the wayt has anyone seen the stell bottom belt coverthats being made. as soo as im done building ill post some pics you guys will love itr

[LouisB]

try KT (http://www.kthobbies.com)

http://www.kthobbies.com/store/image/xxxscoverlg.jpg

not in stock at the moment

[smoky]

thanks alot i thought thats where i saw it ill have to email them to see when tere getting them back. thanks again

[TSR6]

kthobbies is the only place you can get the steel belt covers from, as far as i know.

They are made locally. I have a pre-steel version on my XXX-S, It's aluminum.

They changed to steel after they realized they were removing weight from the last place you want to take it from, the lowest, most center position. Now it adds slight weight there to improve handing. :)

[smoky]

hey guys i got a problem. i jst got the siver surface graphite shock towers from speedtech. my problem is the ballstuds that on the old shock towers you just screwed them through and they would stay. with theses the ball studs just slide right through. do i have to get some locknuts to secure them or am i doin somethin wrong. they wont screw in lke the old ones you can just slide them in and out. any help or thoughts would be great thanks fellas youve been alotta help so far!!!!

[spenzalii]

You will need lick nuts, or jam nuts with a lock washer behind it. The Speedtech towers have the hole drilled straight thru with nothing to bite into. Come to think of it, most C/F is done that way.

[Lapster]

What size shocks are you guys runnin? .28 or .36?

[LouisB]

.28 in the front, .36 in the rear

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Lapster
What size shocks are you guys runnin? .28 or .36?

Lapster - I answered your PM..

For the front, you want .28 size shocks. In the rear, you have to run the .36 size shocks. The .28 shocks are to short for the rear.

If you run the Trinity or Speedtech Low roll center blocks ( Or have cut down the stock blocks to be the equivelant of the two ) you can't run both the .28 shafts and .28 bodies. You can run .28 shafts inside .36 bodies, but .28 shafts and bodies will not have enough travel for the Low Roll Center blocks.

[spenzalii]

See what happens when you don't post at the top of the page?

The Nitro season is closing down. so it's time to go inside and run the XXX-S. I'm thinking about running the 19t class. Anybody run the new Epic motor? I need to see if you can run adjustable timing in the cars; if not it's to the Chameleon 2 Pro. I have to order up a digital caliper and get the car set up, too. Two questions: if you guys are running foams on carpet, what do you recommend? I was toying around with getting some 30 shore Speedmind tires, seeing how their foams worked really well for my LD3. Second, is anyone using anything besides the stock servo saver? Mine seems too loose and has the car wandering around. OH, and did you see the body? I'll post it when I find it myself...

[xxxkat]

I dont use a servo saver,If I break a servo oh well..I have spares.;)

[fast-rc]

Hey whats up guys, Im think about starting to get back into rc again. I took a very long extended break from it, probably like a year or so... I got a xxx-s w/ the old graphite kit, KoPropo MARS-R, LRP Quantum ESC, and I need some help getting my car back to racing shape. I know I need new tires, but which ones (Im racing stock class), also I need a new motor, maybe some important misc parts too... Any suggestions?

Thanks

[TSR6]

I use the stock servo saver. Just make sure you have all 4 rings on it. I was thinking about putting a 4'th on. A good metal geared digital should be able to take a good whackin anyways.

I just bought some purple's for the rear and plaids for the front. I'm switching over to foam for this week. Hope to practice monday and race tuesday. It's what the guys here run on carpet. ...and yes, I need to get back into that habit, no? :p

fast - rubber tires? CS-27's work well on carpet, and asphault. Some guys use 22's indoor, but I would think they would be pretty soft. If you like Sorex, go with 28's. Monster Stock for the motor.

[talon51]

spenz,
I'm using purple fronts and magenta rears on mine right now. I also have swaybars on both ends, so I'm not sure if they'll work well with out them. Believe it or not, I ran this setup on a sealed permanent asphalt track too and it worked quite well. I could probably get a lot more out of it on carpet with harder springs, I'm running green on the front and blue on the rear, but hey, if it works, go with it!

Later,
Talon

[fast-rc]

yea i was either thinking rubbers or foam, because the surface at where i race at really sucks, its like not smooth at all (asphault). I want tires for probably around 80-95 F. Probabaly either Sorex or Take Off or a good foam company maybe Trinity ones.... How are those Orion tires?

[son_tgs]

Hi,

I was wondering if any you guys heard some news/rumors about a new onroad car from Team Losi?

Now that HPI and Yokomo released their new sharftdrive cars for the winter season, Is Losi going to match that or ?

-
Thomas Son.
Team Losi XXXS
Webmaster @ http://odense-rc.dk

[spenzalii]

I believe the rumor was for a nitro touring car, but you won't see anything until Losi is good and ready.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
I believe the rumor was for a nitro touring car, but you won't see anything until Losi is good and ready.

Losi is working on a Nitro Touring car. Everything is being kept under tight wraps. I've tried my best to badger some information out of someone at Losi, and the only responce I got was "4 wheels and a body" :p

I would highly doubt the xxx-s will be replaced any time soon.

[spenzalii]

4 wheels and a body... ROFL!

BTW, here's a sad question... Anybody miss Speedy?:p

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by spenzalii
4 wheels and a body... ROFL!

BTW, here's a sad question... Anybody miss Speedy?:p

Not in the least!

[creep]

Does anyone know if you can replace the axles w/ axles meant for a different car like an HPI. I would like use the same size wheel nuts as on my other cars because I'm constantly losing my tools but I have like 8 combo-wrenches that came with other kits.

[stoopideric]

Can anyone tell me what the benefits of the over/underdrie pulley are and when should I use it?

[spenzalii]

Does anyone know if you can replace the axles w/ axles meant for a different car like an HPI

I suppose you could, but the XXX-S has CVDs all around. I mean, if you could fine a SVD shaft the same width to fit inside the bearing and lond enough to reach the diff without binding, I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't trade my CVD for axles and dog bones just for the lock nuts...

[creep]

I'm sorry, I meant just the axle part of a CVD (the part that goes through the hub) not the whole assembly.

[mwcet8k]

I'm running the regular .28 standard shocks in front and .36 in the back. I've noticed some people who also use the standard non-threaded shocks say they have trouble setting the ride height low enough (4-5 mm). Is this because the collar is slightly "fatter" than the one on the threaded shocks?? That's the only thing I can figure out. And couldn't you set the ride height low enough if you were using the shorter 1" springs in front, instead of the 1.15" springs?? Right now I've got a standard xxxs with 1.15" blue springs on all four corners.

[wcoyote_racer]

About the NT car (Should we say XXX-S NT?) I know that is why Losi came out with the wider Alfa body. I figure by On Road season we will have it. I would be willing to bet that they keep with the belt setup on the nitro (Less new parts to manufacture) It will probably use the same engine as the XXX NT.


As far as the XXX-S or G+ version. There are no major changes anytime soon. And I have heard nothing of Losi going to shaft drive.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by wcoyote_racer
About the NT car (Should we say XXX-S NT?) I know that is why Losi came out with the wider Alfa body. I figure by On Road season we will have it. I would be willing to bet that they keep with the belt setup on the nitro (Less new parts to manufacture) It will probably use the same engine as the XXX NT.


As far as the XXX-S or G+ version. There are no major changes anytime soon. And I have heard nothing of Losi going to shaft drive.

... you mean XXX-NS? :)

Shocks - Yes, the stock collars do make it hard to get a low ride height ( less than 5mm). Generally you need them as high as you can get them to run the lower ride. You shouldnt have this problem with either the shorter springs ( a running change for some springs ) or with the threaded bodies.

[spenzalii]

Man, a nitro XXX-S would almost make me abandon my LD3. Only thing is, I have to travel to find a shop with full Losi support.

In any case, where can you get either black or blue shock collars to fit the XXXS shocks? I have a set of red ones that I don't care for too much (they don't really match anything elso on the car)

[spenzalii]

Oh yeah, we better do this again:

TOWER DOESNT CARRY LOSI
SPUR / PINION ) * 1.83
BUY A HEX WRENCH SET!
SHORT SHOCKS IN THE FRONT ONLY

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Man, a nitro XXX-S would almost make me abandon my LD3. Only thing is, I have to travel to find a shop with full Losi support.

In any case, where can you get either black or blue shock collars to fit the XXXS shocks? I have a set of red ones that I don't care for too much (they don't really match anything elso on the car)

Blue is from Kinwald's line of products. Kinwald blue shock collars.

Red is from the Francis line..

Black? Other than the plastic, i havent seen them...

[spenzalii]

I think I saw them on one of the Pro rides in RCCA, but I can't remember who or which issue

[*Supreme Losi*]

Man,that's gonna suck when losi comes out with a nitro touring car.

















_____________________
got Lara Croft?

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
Man,that's gonna suck when losi comes out with a nitro touring car.

Why do you say that?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
Man,that's gonna suck when losi comes out with a nitro touring car.


Great way to make your first post, jackass. :)

[*Supreme Losi*]

You know,i could have you banned for that,not that i want to.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
You know,i could have you banned for that,not that i want to.

Please do. :rolleyes: ..lmao..

[speedydave]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
You know,i could have you banned for that,not that i want to.

http://www.student.smsu.edu/s/san232s/hardfunnypics/posthowsmarttoday-GotNoRice.jpg

[spenzalii]

LOL! I hate to say it, after such a pointless post, but that was just a bit funny. You redeemed yourself for all of 10 seconds. Make your next post count...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
LOL! I hate to say it, after such a pointless post, but that was just a bit funny. You redeemed yourself for all of 10 seconds. Make your next post count...

He wants me banned... :rolleyes:

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
LOL! I hate to say it, after such a pointless post, but that was just a bit funny. You redeemed yourself for all of 10 seconds. Make your next post count...

He wants me banned... :rolleyes:

[spenzalii]

He's new, so he must not know. Either that, or we have yet another Speedy on this thread...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
He's new, so he must not know. Either that, or we have yet another Speedy on this thread...

haha, heee's baaack!:rolleyes:

[AussieSam]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
Man,that's gonna suck when losi comes out with a nitro touring car.


I think possibly he meant that he just bought a nitro tourer and now losi are bringing out one, perhaps he is telling us he wanted the losi.

[Yosh]

I recently accquired my XXXS G+ and i'm a little confused as to why the shock setups are stiff on the rear and soft up front? To my understanding, and correct me if i'm wrong, shock setups usually goes... hard fronts and soft rears due to forward intertial force applied to the front suspension when in transition from maximum speed to decelaration when executing a turn and prevent the car from diving. Then why do most setups i looked up had soft fronts and hard rears?

I'm currently running a carpet setup of:

50w/white front
70w/black rear
front shock mount all the way in
rear shock mount all that way out
others are set to standard from the assembly manual...

I'm still getting a bit of a push when on power. Before i start changing the springs and oil weights, i just want to know why the XXXS runs the front suspension softer than the rear? Thanks for the help. Later.

-Yosh :cool:

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Yosh


I recently accquired my XXXS G+ and i'm a little confused as to why the shock setups are stiff on the rear and soft up front? To my understanding, and correct me if i'm wrong, shock setups usually goes... hard fronts and soft rears due to forward intertial force applied to the front suspension when in transition from maximum speed to decelaration when executing a turn and prevent the car from diving. Then why do most setups i looked up had soft fronts and hard rears?

I'm currently running a carpet setup of:

50w/white front
70w/black rear
front shock mount all the way in
rear shock mount all that way out
others are set to standard from the assembly manual...

I'm still getting a bit of a push when on power. Before i start changing the springs and oil weights, i just want to know why the XXXS runs the front suspension softer than the rear? Thanks for the help. Later.

-Yosh :cool:



It doesnt! You obviously bought it used.

The standard setup, the front uses purple springs, and the rear uses silver. The front is two spring rates harder with this setup.

If you are running rubber on carpet, I'd definately suggest a huge change. :)

My stock rubber setup had the following:

Front: Losi 50wt oil, stock pistons, blue springs, mounted on shock tower hole #3 ( 2nd from outside ) with the camber link in #1 ( all the way inside ) High roll cener, FWD arm spacing, Pivot Support 2F, Castor: 2* thick swaybar, 3mm droop on losi guage.

Rear: Losi 50wt oil, stock pistons, blue springs, mounted onshock tower hole #3 (2nd from outside) camber link in hole #1 ( top row, all the way inside ), offset rear end parts, 0R pivot support, 3mm droop on the losi guage, no bar. 0* rear toe carrier.

[Yosh]

Actually, no, i got it brand new and bought the black and white springs as upgrades with the 70wt and 50wt oils. It's the setup suggested by our track director at my LHS. Sorry i got confused with my set up though. After looking at the spring rates in the losi site, there were two different pairs of white springs. One was A-5117 1.15" Spring 7.8 Rate (white). The other, which came out much later than the first, is A-5112 1" Spring 30lbs. rate (white). I do have the 30lbs. one so i was running the right setup- hard fronts & soft rears and it was still pushing a bit on power. The setup i listed in my prior post is what i changed it to and i will test on the track tomorrow to see if it helped or not. Oh, sorry i forgot to mention what tires we use.. plaid foam fronts and purple foam rears, both trinity.

Although, when i looked at Lemieux's and Gray's setup in the losi site, both use a reverse stiffness on their suspension.. soft fronts and hard rears.

Link to Lemieux's Carpet Setup (http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpegsetups/xxxs/PL_octfast_02.jpg)

Link to Gray's Carpet Setup (http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpegsetups/xxxs/ag_oct_fest.jpg)

Which brings me to my original query, is there a reason why they run soft fronts and hard rears? I know their setup might not work for me and that's why i don't have mine setup like theirs. I just want to understand why they would run soft fronts and hard rears for their suspensions? Thanks for the setup tip TSR6. I'll try it if my test setup doesn't work. Laters. :)

-Yosh :cool:

[TSR6]

snikies...foam is way different, heh... The setup posted above is rubber. :)

I just started running foam myself.. did the good old convert from rubber. Im running something close to Paul's setup.

Im running black all the way around, with true Low Roll Center blocks ( cut down to the same specs as Trinity or Speedtech low roll center blocks ) . I have to much steering, im going to try stiffer springs in the front on tuesday.

I run TRC or Jaco Plaid fronts, purple rears. :)

[Yosh]

Ok. So part of the reason is the use of foam tires. I did notice the difference in setup from the same drivers between their use of rubber tires and foam tires.

TSR6.. does the rear of your car whip around ON or OFF power? If you have the sway bar set for the front by losi, you should have four different thickness of bars to try changing thickness to reduce traction up front. If the car has too much steering OFF power, try thicker (stiffer) sway bar up front. Go thinner (softer) if you have too much steering ON power. Try this first to save some money if you don't have the springs yet and if you do have the sway bar set. Stiffening the front springs first will work if your car has too much steering while OFF power. I suggetst you soften the rear springs first before stiffening the front if your car has too much steering while ON power. Hope this helps. Thanks again. Laters.

-Yosh :cool:

[TSR6]

It's not that the car whips around, I enter the corner, and the car feels like it hits a brick wall, it just has to much front traction and "binds" mid corner, it doesn't like to roll and rotate through the corners no matter how i change my line going in. I can make it less of a problem by taking a wider entry, but it's still there.

I'll post more when i get back from class... Just thought I'd answer quick... bbiab!

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by TSR6
haha, heee's baaack!:rolleyes:
No way!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by TSR6
It's not that the car whips around, I enter the corner, and the car feels like it hits a brick wall, it just has to much front traction and "binds" mid corner, it doesn't like to roll and rotate through the corners no matter how i change my line going in. I can make it less of a problem by taking a wider entry, but it's still there.

I'll post more when i get back from class... Just thought I'd answer quick... bbiab!

gannalo - go to hell. :) The only thing I have to say..


Yoshi - Like I was saying in the last post ( had to leave for my final class of the day ) my car just has to much forward bite, which slows it dramaticly in the corner. I had this same issue with the setup i posted above before I bumped up to blue springs. I had been running silver, had similar issues, bumped to blue and it free'd up the car a little, and improved lap times, making it easier to drive consistantly mid corner and out. :)

[Yosh]

TSR6.. Were you running close to Paul's ROAR carpet setup where he used TakeOffs (rubber) tires or his Octoberfast setup where he used foam tires? There's a huge difference between the two. He's running much stiffer suspensions on his foam setups than his rubber setups. Am glad to hear you fixed your problem. Hope i resolve mine too before our series race this Wednesday night. The only way to do so is actually go to the track and drive it and make changes. Am still a bit of a newbee when it comes to setups. I usually scope out what the pros have online but as it were, there were none for foam setups until just recently. So i deviated mine from what some of the local racers here that are consistently in the A- main are using and use that as a starting point. I've only been running my XXXS for 4 race days so i'm still hunting for it's sweet spot on our carpet track with the stock losi alpha body. Though that shell has gotten a bit banged up because of mishaps due to my driving and some from setup issues. So i might have to put on a new neutral shell like a proline vectra to look for setup flaws and go from there when i go back to my usual body, proline alfa 2.0. Thanks. Laters.

-Yosh :cool:

[TSR6]

hehe, I'm running something close to Paul's foam setup.

I had it running alright, not as fast as i liked, but it drove. Paul took it for a couple laps and liked it too, but then I changed castor right before the main ( bad idea ) to get a little more turn in, but that totaly screwed me up mid corner.

Normally I go by the general rule that you never change anything right before the main unless you have time to test it, but I didn't think I'd have the problem I had. ..hehe..

I've been running the 2.0. I didn't like the Alfa with rubber, it just felt like it lost so much corner speed compared to my trusty 2.0's. I may try it again for foam, always stuff to play with and try! :)

[Yosh]

Sweet. When i had my other car tuned to our carpet track i rotated between 4 shells: ProtoForm's Stratus 1.0 & 2.0, BMW 3 Series, Vauxhall Vectra, and just recently Alfa 2.0. I only made small changes to the suspension setup when changing from shell to shell for optimum handling of each body. Am hoping to add the ProtoForm Vovlo S60 and Proline Jetta once i get as close as i can to a neutral optimum setup with the XXXS, if it even exists.

Reason why i don't stick to one body is to break up the monotony. Also, this is as close as i'll get to racing a real car, let alone racing several different ones each time ;). Thanks. Later.

-Yosh :cool:

[TSR6]

I had been sticking with the 2.0 mostly for consistancy. I know when i get to the track and my car isnt working that it's something with my setup, and that I'm not trying to adjust for the body. I ran the Losi Alfa for about 4 weeks i think, just because I had it, with a killer paint scheme.

( http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112616 and http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=132475 )

First run with it, one of the first laps, i was put into the wall, shot outside of the track, and ended up about 4 feet up on the concrete wall ( if you know S&N Trackside, it was up to the yellow stripe :) )

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by TSR6
I had been sticking with the 2.0 mostly for consistancy. I know when i get to the track and my car isnt working that it's something with my setup, and that I'm not trying to adjust for the body. I ran the Losi Alfa for about 4 weeks i think, just because I had it, with a killer paint scheme.

( http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112616 and http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=132475 )

First run with it, one of the first laps, i was put into the wall, shot outside of the track, and ended up about 4 feet up on the concrete wall ( if you know S&N Trackside, it was up to the yellow stripe :) ) Man,I have to admit,that body does look really good.:)

[*Supreme Losi*]

I'm not speedy cuz i'm not a frickin retard:D :rolleyes: Check out my profile and you'll see that I have better taste than him.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Man, a nitro XXX-S would almost make me abandon my LD3. Only thing is, I have to travel to find a shop with full Losi support.

In any case, where can you get either black or blue shock collars to fit the XXXS shocks? I have a set of red ones that I don't care for too much (they don't really match anything elso on the car)
I have some graphite-gray ones that I could send you.We could trade because i want some red ones.PM me to tell me yes or no.

[*Supreme Losi*]

I want red!!!

[*Supreme Losi*]

I don't know why I want different colored parts because they are gonna work the same..this:p isn't aimed at you all,it's aimed at me for this..here we go :p :p :p :p :p :p i hope that's enough:rolleyes:

[spenzalii]

As long as you know they won't make you any faster or any better driver, more power to you. I just want to add them to my old kit and use it as a show car, as it were. I'm hoping to get the +G as my racing car, and kit out the original with the aluminum pieces and a brushless setup (maybe Hacker, I'm not too sure yet) to show off the Jaguar S-Type body I have for it.

Yes, I sid a Jag..

[wcoyote_racer]

Hey guys I'm planning on getting a XXX-S G+ here soon and I need to know what extra parts or mods I need on hand (Like another rear tower mounted on front in place of the front one) I plan on racing on ozite carpet, but first, doing some concrete practicing to get used to driving it. I've never raced in this class before, but I have raced off road.

Speed controller, radio, batteries, motor are all set. I haven't a clue on the tires. Which seem to be the best out there? I've heard a lot of people mention the Jaco and TRC tires. Any setup knowlege would be helpful too. Thanks for the info.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by wcoyote_racer
Hey guys I'm planning on getting a XXX-S G+ here soon and I need to know what extra parts or mods I need on hand (Like another rear tower mounted on front in place of the front one) I plan on racing on ozite carpet, but first, doing some concrete practicing to get used to driving it. I've never raced in this class before, but I have raced off road.

Speed controller, radio, batteries, motor are all set. I haven't a clue on the tires. Which seem to be the best out there? I've heard a lot of people mention the Jaco and TRC tires. Any setup knowlege would be helpful too. Thanks for the info.

If you haven't raced touring before, I wouldn't even worry about doing the front shock tower switch.

Just get used to the car, and tune it with the availible options.

If you haven't purchased the car yet, and plan on running foams, I'm not sure if i can reccoment the GP+ for foams.

I'm planning on making the switch to a TC3 just because I can't stand the way that droop is setup on the Losi. With the flex, you have anwhere between 2-4mm of droop depending on settings.

This isn't a big issue with rubber tires, as I use such softer springs, but with hard springs for foam class, the plastic around the droop screws flex like mad. :(

The best way is to set droop with the shocks & limitors, but thats a pain in the ass if you ask me..

[hpirs43ss]

Hey guys, I was about to get a used xxx-s rtr with everything but the radio, battery and charger but I was wondering what the stock ESC on that was rated down to for motors and if this would be a good choice for a basher/mild racing car? -Brenden:D

[jkerr0043]

I ran a TC3 before switching to the Losi. Yes the droop screws suck on the Losi and yes it's a pain to set droop with the shocks. But it's a lot better than having to set the car up with different droop and preload settings left to right in the rear like you have to do with the TC3 to compensate for the torque steer. I'd much rather have a car that can be set up properly and un tweeked. You literally have to setup a TC3 with tweek in it intentionally to get it to drive straight. Even the pros do it. It may not reflect on their setup sheets but I've seen posts where people ask how to counter it and that's their fix every time. No thank you.

[mwcet8k]

Originally posted by hpirs43ss
Hey guys, I was about to get a used xxx-s rtr with everything but the radio, battery and charger but I was wondering what the stock ESC on that was rated down to for motors and if this would be a good choice for a basher/mild racing car? -Brenden:D

It's rated down to 18 turns. Overall, it's a pretty slick ESC considering it's part of a ready to run package. You could probably use it for some novice and sport class racing, but I would upgrade if you get very serious. And yes, in my opinion the xxxs rtr would be a good choice for bashing if that's what you want it for.

[Slow Driver]

I have a question and it may be a dumb one. What is the benefit of the 64 pitch spur gears? Also, with the 128 teeth spur gear, do you need a much higher pinion than with a 48 pitch?

Thanks

[jkerr0043]

64 pitch tend to be a bit quieter and they provide much finer control over your gear ratios. With a 128 spur, you'd usually run a much larger pinion (30's) than you would with say a 90 tooth 48 pitch.

[mwcet8k]

I've noticed recently that the drivetrain on my xxxs isn't as free as I thought it should be when I would turn the spur gear w/o the motor attached. Because this is my first 4wd vehicle I wasn't sure just how much additional drag there should be in the drivetrain compared to 2wd, so I decided to tear it down last night and see if I could find any problems. After I removed both diffs and the belt, I put the diffs back in to see how freely they moved without the belt attached. The front diff (or really the front outdrives) doesn't rotate as freely as the back. I checked everything that I could think of but nothing seemed to be wrong. The only thing I noticed is that the diff fits slightly tighter in the front when you slide it into the belt tunnel than it does in the back. I don't think the problem has anything to do with the actual diffs or bearings, because I moved the rear diff and outdrive bearings to the front and the problem persisted. The front is not extremely tight, just tight enough that there's noticeable difference between the front and back.

Is this normal? The car is brand new and has yet to be run. Will the problem fix itself after the car has "broken in"? Although the amount of drag is minimal, I'm hesitant to run it until I know everything is working correctly.

[jkerr0043]

It depends what you're comparing it to. A TC3 and a XXXS can't be compared. I actually like the slightly tighter drive train. Helps put a little drag brake in it when running a 1-way. I think the biggest thing is make sure it's smooth and not binding. It's not going to freewheel like a shaft drive car. But when you get the tires on it, it may spin for a second or so. If it's too loose you'll end up skipping the belt under both accelleration and braking.

[mwcet8k]

No, it's not binding at all. Just not as free as I thought it would be. If the rear outdrive felt the same as the front, I wouldn't be concerned, but since the the rear spins more freely it makes me think the front should feel the same. I have a feeling it will free up a bit after I've run a few packs through it.

Another question: What's a good setting to start out with on the diffs? Typically, with almost any ball diff, I tighten it until I feel it bottom out, and then back off about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I've found that this works well with almost any diff. What do you guys think?

[TSR6]

The only think i can think of would be that possibly the front is tighter side to side?

I don't think I would nessisarily be worried about it until after you run the car for a few weeks. I didn't even touch anything until I ran the car on the track, then degreased the bearings, and and all that good stuff for a big race here.

Mine is pretty free for a belt car..

[TSR6]

Originally posted by mwcet8k
Another question: What's a good setting to start out with on the diffs? Typically, with almost any ball diff, I tighten it until I feel it bottom out, and then back off about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I've found that this works well with almost any diff. What do you guys think?

I usually start my diffs by getting them so they don't slip, then just a tad tighter. I adjust from there to change driving charactoristics to how i want it. :)

[kcobra]

Have any of y'all ran a GP 3300 7 cell pack in your XXX-S? Since the GP 3300 cells are a little fatter than standard cells, I cann't make 7 cell fit. Any ideas?

[*Supreme Losi*]

I'm doing a project for school with my xxx-s and I was wondering if anybody knew why my midnight 2 motor was overheating.I'm using a 26 tooth pinion and this problem has never happenned before.Also,I'm only running at the best,9.50sec,for lap times.

[TSR6]

never happened before on the same layout with the same gearing, then it might be time for a rebuild.

if it's a different layout, change gearing/

[spenzalii]

Interesting. I made a 7 cell Hawk RC 3400 pack which fit finr in mine.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Is it worth it, you guys think, to get a used kit version XXXS? :D

[mwcet8k]

It all depends on the condition of the kit and the price.

[creep]

I just got the threaded shock bodies but now I need a good wt. oil for paking lot running. Any suggestions? The rest of the car is bone stock RTR.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

It's Official!
Trading my buggy for this sweet little car

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

It's Official!
Trading my buggy for this sweet little car

[mwcet8k]

Looks pretty nice. Without knowing what buggy you traded, I'd say you got a good deal.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Here's a list of the things I would have traded for a xxx-s


XXX-4
Mugen mbx-5
Duratrax Pro Evader BX(graphite)
XX-4
XXX-T
Spec XXX-T
BK2 XXX
BK XXX(NOT Burger King:rolleyes: )
Hell,nothing else is half worth a xxx-s

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what hop ups should i consider to get first?
Thanks
let me know

[Gutter Ball]

I bought a XXX-S G+ that had aluminum front/rear pivots. There were some spacers under the pivots. Now I'm trying to figure out what high/low roll center is and am :confused: :confused: This is what I think:

High roll centre = use blocks without spacers (making the car sit higher)
Low roll centre = use blocks with spacers (making the car sit lower)

Is this right? Cause based on the instructions, I think I'm backwards! It says if I use a high roll centre in the rear, I have to mount the pivot in the higher set of holes on the diff cover. Well, I'm using the pivots without spacers (high roll centre) and my rear pivot screws into the BOTTOM set of holes!! So I don't get it. Can anybody clarify please? :confused:

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
I bought a XXX-S G+ that had aluminum front/rear pivots. There were some spacers under the pivots. Now I'm trying to figure out what high/low roll center is and am :confused: :confused: This is what I think:

High roll centre = use blocks without spacers (making the car sit higher)
Low roll centre = use blocks with spacers (making the car sit lower)

Is this right? Cause based on the instructions, I think I'm backwards! It says if I use a high roll centre in the rear, I have to mount the pivot in the higher set of holes on the diff cover. Well, I'm using the pivots without spacers (high roll centre) and my rear pivot screws into the BOTTOM set of holes!! So I don't get it. Can anybody clarify please? :confused:

Low roll center is without the spacers. When using the LOW roll center, you use the lower holes on the bulkheads. The hinge pin will be lower on the chassis.

High roll center is WITH the spacers. You use the upper holes when using the high roll center. The hinge pin will be raised farther above the chassis

[Gutter Ball]

:p Okay, that makes a lot more sense! Thanks Troy :cool:

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Could you explain the affects of high and low roll center?
Thank you

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
what hop ups should i consider to get first?


Threaded shocks, RPM ballcups. Pretty much all you need. Upgrade to graphite as you break things. Although it's taking my friend a long time to get graphite...his car hasn't broken much in 1.5 years. I'm not sure about low/high roll center, the manual explains it a bit.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

i think the car has losi cups?
or he dyed some white ones to red

[*Supreme Losi*]

Okay,Troy, yesterday I went to Small Cars Unlimited-check the website out on these words. (http://www.smallcarsunlimited.com/community) My Midnight 2 motor was crappy and made all of my batteries dump really fast. I used a 90t spur and a 26t pinion gear as always and my motor was embarrassingly slow.I put it on my truck and it went faster.Could you help me find out the problem?

Thanks:)

[TSR6]

It was probably geared wrong in your xxx-s if it worked fine in your truck.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

would be nice if someone posted what the final gear ratio should be for a tight track with a) Monster of Revenge b) Core Stcok c) chameleon 1 or 2 d) Modified motor of your choice [please stat the number of turns and the name of the motor]

Thanks (hopely troy has time to answer me this one... :) )

[JME3]

NMT

I run on a pretty tight track, I use a 7.0 final gear ratio with the monster stock. It works well, and thats what everybody else runs.

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
would be nice if someone posted what the final gear ratio should be for a tight track with a) Monster of Revenge b) Core Stcok c) chameleon 1 or 2 d) Modified motor of your choice [please stat the number of turns and the name of the motor]

Thanks (hopely troy has time to answer me this one... :) )

Unfortunatly, that's not something you can just post up. Gearing is something that has to be done not only based on the track and layout, buteven day to day. A lot of things effect it. Available traction, weather, track temp, your batteries, etc...

For instance, today was cold here, I was able to gear up a tooth in 19 turn because the cooler weather helped the motor stay cooler and not over heat.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Unfortunatly, that's not something you can just post up. Gearing is something that has to be done not only based on the track and layout, buteven day to day. A lot of things effect it. Available traction, weather, track temp, your batteries, etc...

For instance, today was cold here, I was able to gear up a tooth in 19 turn because the cooler weather helped the motor stay cooler and not over heat.

Agreed, Even when the track layout hasnt changed from the previous week, you may still need to change gearing from the previous week. It's not something ( in my mind ) that can just be posted on the internet without driving on that EXACT layout, and even then, it's still only a suggestion.

It's not only the track size, but also motor condition, weather, battery condition, ect..

[Dj Kumara]

Is there anyone here who races in stock, because I'd like a bit of advice. I have the G+ with no extra hop-ups other than what's included in the kit, and was wondering if there are any general hop-ups I should get (front one-way, extra springs, sway bars, etc). I usually run on rough-ish asphalt on any number of track layouts at up to 45kph or about 27mph.
I want to increase the number of options that I have, but I thought that I should ask you guys first just in case I bought something that I don't need anyway.
Around where I live no one runs stock G+'s, they all run in modified, who of course, use greatly different steups on their cars.
I was hoping that I could get some general advise for stock racing, not some advice that is specialised to a certain track layout.
Thanks,
Aidan

[jkerr0043]

A set of swaybars, full set of springs, (maybe not the stiffer carpet type springs) full set of oils and pistons. Get some spare parts such as arms, towers castor blocks, spindals, etc...

I'd also look into getting some aluminum spring collars with Orings in them. The stock ones have a tendancy to adjust themselves.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
A set of swaybars, full set of springs, (maybe not the stiffer carpet type springs) full set of oils and pistons. Get some spare parts such as arms, towers castor blocks, spindals, etc...

I'd also look into getting some aluminum spring collars with Orings in them. The stock ones have a tendancy to adjust themselves.

I would suggest at least the silver, blue and green springs for stock class. A couple weights of shock oil is also nice to have on hand. I have 40-60 in my box.

A couple other ideas, different rear carriers so you can adjust the rear toe, and different degree front castor blocks are also good to have around.

[jkerr0043]

Great minds tend to think alike, right? ;)

[Dj Kumara]

Who makes the aluminium shock collars? - Losi?

[spenzalii]

Trinity, both in red and blue

[*Supreme Losi*]

I am making a wishlist as to what i would like for x-mas and all i can think of is those speedtech SSG shock towers.Could i get a little help?

[smoky]

i dont really know what kinda help your looking for but if you want to know if there worth it i woud say definitely. i beleive their thicker than the stock towers. they hve a few extra mounting hole options. and as far as lookd go they dont get any cooler i have a bunch of red aluminum on my xxxs and with everything the the shock towers look awesome. they hold up well also ive had a few roll overs and run in with the boards. and have had no problems with breakage at all and at $29.99 i think thats not a bad deal. ya got any other ?'s let me know.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Spenz,please include postage stamps and/or another package so I can send mine.I'm kinda tight on budget right now.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ttt

[TSR6]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
Spenz,please include postage stamps and/or another package so I can send mine.I'm kinda tight on budget right now.

***?:confused:

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

lol me too, troy,
My guess is that they had a email conv brought into the forum

[*Supreme Losi*]

We're trading car parts and I needed to tell him so I figured he'd see the reply and make sure he did so.

[mwcet8k]

Has anyone had a chance to run this one yet? Looks pretty slick. Sounds like it works well too based on the comments in this thread.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=147497

[turbo s15]

hey what is required to complete the graphite edition.

is it good with the parking lot or meant for racing.

or should i just get a xxx-s rtr instead if im not racing.

[Yosh]

Turbo,

If you're 100% sure you'll never ever race or even be tempted to race, then the XXXS RTR is more than enough car for the parking lot. But if you are thinking of racing sometime in the near future, like in two to three months, the XXXS G+ is not a must but you're saving so much more money if you end up upgrading to it from the RTR in the future. Both the RTR and G+ are "stock" setup for running out in the parking lot, the RTR may absorb more punishment from the pavement, though the G+ is more driver/car responsive, if not more superior, than the RTR in handling characteristics. It may cost more to get the G+ at the beginning because you'll still have to get a Radio, Electronic Speed Control, Motor, Batteries and Charger (both also needed for the RTR), but it'll cost more to upgrade the RTR to all the option parts the G+ comes with, ie. all the Graphite, Threaded Shock Bodies, Ti Nitrite Coated Shock Shafts, Low Center Mounting Blocks, Etc.

Hope this helps. Good luck. Laters.

-Yosh :cool:

[etang858]

has anyone tried mounting a dually in their xxx-s? ive tried and it won't fit at all where the esc is suppose to go. i ended up putting the esc where the rc goes and putting the rc on top of the servo. i used to have the rx where the esc is suppose to go but the wire would have to run over the motor then, not good. any ideas on mounting esc? thanks

[mwcet8k]

Originally posted by etang858
has anyone tried mounting a dually in their xxx-s? ive tried and it won't fit at all where the esc is suppose to go. i ended up putting the esc where the rc goes and putting the rc on top of the servo. i used to have the rx where the esc is suppose to go but the wire would have to run over the motor then, not good. any ideas on mounting esc? thanks

I've mounted mine on it's side behind the motor where the esc is supposed to go. Make sure you clean the esc's and chassis' surface well (rubbing alchohol works well) and the tape should hold it in place solid. Also, put it all the way back against the lip at the back of the chassis. This will give it a little additional support.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Spenz,you there?

[smoky]

bought the ssg shock towers ive bought 2 sets i also have a bunch of red aluminum pieces. like said before the 29.99$ just for the look is worth it they are thicker than stock.ive taken some very mean tumbles flippin bout maybe 7-8 times never broke after that and many run ins with the boards.{driving skills are still being worked on** i have 2 xxxs one i use for bashing with the aluminum. the other for racing ive only run that maybe 3 times trying to get the set up right

[*Supreme Losi*]

Can a GTP style body work on a xxx-s?I was just watching Supr2nrTV and I started thinking about it and I wonder.Any help greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.

[creep]

You must have seen the Nissans huh?

[xxxkat]

Turbo,The RTR is fine for playing in the parking lots,if you should want to race it would be fine for that also,you can up grade as your skills improve,if your just racing stock the radio system that comes with the RTR is fine,alot of racers "think" you need all the hi-tec stuff but you really dont.If you have never raced before I dont think your going to be in the expert class,a g-plus is not going to get you around the track any faster in the sportsman or novice class than an RTR.Some people would disagree but that's my opion and I'm sticking to it.:D

[*Supreme Losi*]

Spenzalli,when am I going to get those parts? I still haven't recieved them.

[spenzalii]

You will have them by Friday at the absolute latest. I was out of town this weeked and forgot to put them in the drop box before I left. I couldn't check my e-mail either, so my PM box was full. I really am sorry Supreme. There's just been so much going on here it isn't funny. But I haven't forgotten you

[creep]

OK, so I was trying to rebuild my shocks with new threaded shock bodies but the last one just wouldn't go together right. Everytime I screwed the cartridge in all the way the shaft would start sliding out and wouldn't go back in. after trying this about 15 times I realized that the cartridge body was slightly different than the other 3 shocks. The flange was hex shaped instead of round and the the hex part that you put the wrench on wasn't as thick. Anyone else run into that problem?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=19101

Here is a movie of my XXX-S "Drifting"

[creep]

What steering servo is supposed to come with the RTR? Is it a Z250 or a Z270? And which is better?

[xxxkat]

It's the 270..replace it with the 590.

[xxxkat]

I thought the xxxs was dead,when they first came out alot of people had them now I'm just about the only xxxs racer left at my track.The guy's that tricked them out did not get much money for them when they sold them.a buddy of mine had about $600 in his(no radio gear either) and all he got out of his was $170,and it was very clean,only run about 6 races.made me change my mind about tricking mine out,stock G-Plus it is.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
I thought the xxxs was dead,when they first came out alot of people had them now I'm just about the only xxxs racer left at my track.The guy's that tricked them out did not get much money for them when they sold them.a buddy of mine had about $600 in his(no radio gear either) and all he got out of his was $170,and it was very clean,only run about 6 races.made me change my mind about tricking mine out,stock G-Plus it is.

Thats about what a rolling chassis should be worth, assuming it is in good condition.

[xxxkat]

The xxxs had every hop up part you could buy,Ti screw kit,ti ball studs,ssg graphite shock towers,Acer ceramic bearings,all the red trinity roll blocks,heat sink motor mount,graphite bottom cover,cnc milled chassis(pro done).their was more parts that he had on the car but I cant remember everything, no scratches on chassis or any damage to the car,it also had ti axles.You would think that it should have gone for more than $170,I got that much for a stock G-Plus,live an learn.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by xxxkat
The xxxs had every hop up part you could buy,Ti screw kit,ti ball studs,ssg graphite shock towers,Acer ceramic bearings,all the red trinity roll blocks,heat sink motor mount,graphite bottom cover,cnc milled chassis(pro done).their was more parts that he had on the car but I cant remember everything, no scratches on chassis or any damage to the car,it also had ti axles.You would think that it should have gone for more than $170,I got that much for a stock G-Plus,live an learn.

probably should have gone for the price of a stock kit then...

Generally, everything is worth 1/2 of what it was originally.

[creep]

Originally posted by xxxkat
It's the 270..replace it with the 590.


Thanks, I'll look into that.

[xxxkat]

If that were true it should have gone for $300..but you and I know better.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Well,I just blew my Midnight motor:( Why do I lose track of time????I started my watch's timer and didn't look down.9min 36sec!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
Well,I just blew my Midnight motor:( Why do I lose track of time????I started my watch's timer and didn't look down.9min 36sec!

The way I gear, it should have blown at 7min :p

[*Supreme Losi*]

Well,I broke my evader a good bit so looks like I'll be running my car some more:rolleyes: .

[spenzalii]

Supreme, check your pm....

[TSR6]

*tap*tap* Is this thing on? :p

[jkerr0043]

I've been kind of wondering that about this whole forum.

[spenzalii]

hahaha. Has seemed just a bit slow. I think I'll dust off my losi and hit the track after work. The boss is giving me a 1/2 day, so I may as well not waste it. Hope you guys got what you wanted this year. I added a Mini-T and a M18 to my small stable. Those little trucks kick arse! Losi really nailed one with this truck, and right now has the market to itself.

[thedominator]

I just got a novak SS system and it is sweet. Hope you guys got some good presents:D

[TSR6]

I've been prepping for the Novak USTC race @ Trackside.

[*Supreme Losi*]

I got a 128 tooth spur gear for my losi.Yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

[TSR6]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
I got a 128 tooth spur gear for my losi.Yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

wanna cookie?

[*Supreme Losi*]

what's that to mean?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by *Supreme Losi*
what's that to mean?

IDGAF. :D

I have a new spur geat too!

[turbo s15]

im looking to get a xxx-s rtr and was looking for a good site for upgrades like sway bars and tuned springs.

i know that speed tech carries carbon shock towers.


i really need a good site and a good price.



p.s will other rim makes fit on the xxx-s rtr like hpi and tamiya.

i want to get the hpi advan tires with hpi rims.


thanks:D

[turbo s15]

oh also could someone tell me how long the stock tires on the xxx-s last and parking lot use

[jkerr0043]

Best sites I've found for Losi stuff online are KT Hobbies and Stormer Hobbies. ( www.kthobbies.com ) ( www.stormerhobbies.com ) KT seems to have the best prices and for onroad stuff, they've got it all. Kraig is a good guy too. Stormers got everything you'll need too but they seem to be just a little higher price on some items.