XXX-S Forum v2.0

[turbo s15]

which brand bodies fit the xxx-s rtr the best.

how good is hpi.

[spenzalii]

Horizon Hobby also carries Losi parts (they are their distributor), so you can get parts there as well. Prices are somewhere between Stormer and KT Hobbies.

If memory serves, the Losi should be able to use standard 12mm rims (just about every touring car rim out there). Originally, the kit used a 10mm hex, but they included the 12mm hexes for people that wanted to use standard rims. The RTR should have the 12mm hex standard. If not, they may be on the parts tree that kame in the set.

Almost any 190mm body should fit. You just have to watch where you mark the body posts. Of course, if you get a Losi body, the dimples are set for a XXX-S. On a HPI, Proline, Tamiya etc. body, you have to line the body up over the posts and mark them

[turbo s15]

well a mag i have says the esc v3r can handle down to modified 15t motor limit.

is this true.

was in a issue of radio control magazine.

how would compare it to other touring cars.

thanks alot:D

[TSR6]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Best sites I've found for Losi stuff online are KT Hobbies and Stormer Hobbies. ( www.kthobbies.com ) ( www.stormerhobbies.com ) KT seems to have the best prices and for onroad stuff, they've got it all. Kraig is a good guy too. Stormers got everything you'll need too but they seem to be just a little higher price on some items.

Ditto on KT Hobbies. I race with Kraig -- Very nice guy, and even if they don't have what you need, you can call and Kraig will probably be able to take care of you. :)

[jpel200]

Ok, this may get somewhat long. :p
I don't run onroad yet, but I am planning too. But I did get into offroad with a xxxt just about one year ago, and I have to say something here. read, read, read, (on here and wherever you can) and practice, practice, practice (whenever you can!)
There are a lot of good questions on here, and alot of really bad ones. Put your car together (according to the manual's suggestions) and run it..... talk to the people at your local track. See who is running what and most of all WHY! That is about the only way you can really learn. NOBODY on here can set you up for your track. It is impossible unless they run there themslelves and even then it is still really close to impossible.
I think the most important thing that I have learned in a year, is that everyone drives just a little different. Some enter corners faster, some punch out just a little harder. All driving STYLE. This means that no matter how you match your opponents setup, it probably won't work for you. Not sure how many people here will agree with me, just something I have found that really relates to how we set up cars. I still don't understand all the set up shhhhtuff (LOL), but you have to get in there and try different things and practice or it don't really matter, does it?
Well, hope I didn't bore you all to death, but after reading all these posts, I had to say what has been on my mind. LOL.
Oh, and thank you to all those that really try to help us that don't get it! :D You are a constant source of information and most of all, you support and help drive (no pun intended) the hobby we all love.

John Pelfrey

[jpel200]

Oh, and one more thing, unless you have driven something else, don't try to start off in a pro or modified class. Start off in novice or stock until you learn how to drive. Just my opinion again! But I have watched quite a few guys get really discouraged just because they can't keep up with the fast guys in modified.
Have to learn how to crawl before we can walk (or run!) :D
We all like the power and speed to be sure, but start slow... trust me, for most people, this is the way to go... even if you do find it too slow for you right off the bat.... start slow.

Laters,
John Pelfrey

By the way..... I have been in a stock class for one year.... just can't seem to get fast enough to break out!

Clint Eastwood...... "A man's got to know his limitations!" :cool:

[AEcrazyT3]

:D I am finally free of most of the drive train drag I have been seeing in my Losi... I had been tightening the screw on the motor side that holds in the spur gear. I didnt know that one dumb screw could slow the car down so much!

Anyhow do you guys have any tips on freeing up your drive train?

[AEcrazyT3]

Originally posted by jpel200

By the way..... I have been in a stock class for one year.... just can't seem to get fast enough to break out!

Clint Eastwood...... "A man's got to know his limitations!" :cool:

I agree with most of what you say but I aslo think that it is important to challege yourself in order to improve yourself. If you have been in the stock class for a year, and can keep off the boards for the most part, its time to step up to the plate and take on mod..... You will be faster for your efforts....
just my 2 cents..

[jpel200]

Oh, I agree whole heartedly. I seem to go fast, just my consistancy isn't there. I don't always make the A main, usually the B. I can almost always win the B main, but never the A. soooooooooo...... I stay here trying to figure out setups and try to improve my driving. LOL. I will get there eventually. It gets really frustrating some times. It really does. But then, I have alot of fun too. I really love rc racing.....I try not to ever lose my cool, and I try to think through what I am doing wrong. Yeah, it's usually me and not my truck. I seem to be one of those yank and crank drivers! :D . But I am getting better at easing into the throttle and steering. Just gotta hang in there!

John Pelfrey

[AEcrazyT3]

Yea I made the big jump from Stock electric to 50+ mph nitro... Thats a huge change! But going back to my Losi it seems that I have that much more control over it because of my less then impressive performance with my LD3... Im pretty happy though because I get to race the LD3 tomarow! Then the Losi gets its turn at the end of this month!
I think this racing stuff is a worse addiction then well um.... yea... Its addicting....!

[KandL Racing]

I just received a XXX-S RTR during a trade and I am going thru it checking things out. I am used to off-road stuff, so this is all new to me.

My question is on the diffs, When I rotate a rear wheel, with all wheels free, all wheel rotote and the motor turns. My thought on that was the rear diff was too tight, but I wanted to check here first. When I turn a front wheel with all wheels free, only the other front wheel turns and it is in the opposite direction. Is this the correct behavior?

Guess one other question while I am here. A friend to me I should have a final gear ratio of around 7-7.1. The RTR is around 8.xx stock, I am going to be running a tuned stock motor in it. Can't decide on a 22 or a 23 which would set me up between 7.0 or 7.3 on the final ratio, suggestions?

Thanks

[AEcrazyT3]

That rear diff sounds to tight. I ether run them even for bashing or tighter in the front for racing depening on where you are going to be racing... ie... indoor/outdoor....
I usually keep mine tight in the front and loose in the rear for outdoor asphalt...

[KandL Racing]

I bought a "Bag o Parts" off ebay for the XXX-S and it had several different springs in it. Some are still in the packaging, but some are not. Does anyone have a list of the colors vs. spring rates?

The springs that are bagged are

1.15" 14.6 rate blue
1.15" 8.6 rate Orange
1" 25.0 rate black

Unbagged are Yellow and Purple 1"

Also are the 1 and 1.15" used for different shocks?

Thanks!

Kev

[TSR6]

Tips on freeing up the XXX-S Drivetrain ( as asked for a couple posts above)


Rebuild your bearings. A good jewlery cleaner, Integy Sparkle, or any other vibrating "sonic" cleaning try is the best choice with some motor spray. Just blasting them with spray will NOT get all the crud out.
Lube the bearings with a lighter oil. I use Team1 bearing lubes, either the light brown oil, or the super thin clear blue oil ( www.team1rc.com )
Remove the inside shields - Note: For serious racer's only. You will have to clean the bearings more often.
Cut off every-other tooth on the belt. This is somewhat of a new trick, use either an x-acto, or finger nail clippers to take off every other tooth. There are an even number of teeth on the belt, so you will not have an odd number out. Remember not to cut the belt all the way down to the strands, you are only removing the tooth, and a small "nub" left over is fine!
CVD's cleaned and lubed - This is often overlooked, but make sure your CVD's are clean. I even polished the little "drum" thing that goes on the axle with some Mother's polish.


My drivetrain is VERY free, with the stock bearings. I know I could get a little more spin time from a good set of ceramic bearings, but the cost v.s. durability factor just doesnt favor ceramic bearings.

I was also the ONLY Losi sedan in the stock Rubber A-main at the Novak USTC this past weekend, so I must be doing something right. :cool: I ended up taking 5'th place.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by KandL Racing
I bought a "Bag o Parts" off ebay for the XXX-S and it had several different springs in it. Some are still in the packaging, but some are not. Does anyone have a list of the colors vs. spring rates?

The springs that are bagged are

1.15" 14.6 rate blue
1.15" 8.6 rate Orange
1" 25.0 rate black

Unbagged are Yellow and Purple 1"

Also are the 1 and 1.15" used for different shocks?

Thanks!

Kev

Purple is 20 rate
Yellow is 40 rate

1" and 1.15" are used on the same shocks, it's a running change that losi is making.

[AEcrazyT3]

Originally posted by TSR6

My drivetrain is VERY free, with the stock bearings. I know I could get a little more spin time from a good set of ceramic bearings, but the cost v.s. durability factor just doesnt favor ceramic bearings.

I was also the ONLY Losi sedan in the stock Rubber A-main at the Novak USTC this past weekend, so I must be doing something right. :cool: I ended up taking 5'th place.

Congrats on 5th at the Novak race.. I saw the line up and it looked like there was some stiff competition.

So the ceramic bearings dont hold up as well? I was looking at the acer teflon sets... Have you heard anything about them? I think the $50 or so they are asking for them sounds reasonable...

Oh and thanks for the tips!

[TSR6]

Everyone I know that has ceramic bearings only uses them for big events -- and put the stock bearings back in for club racing. They just don't last as long as a good quality steel ball bearing set.

[nomac]

tsr6..hey there! congrats on your finish. so now i know i was not seeing things when i saw a picture of a losi with a few teeth missin on the belt. i often wondered about that trick. how does it affect belt tension/clicking?

i did all the above exept for nipping the teeth of the belt. i acually narrowed the belt by a little over 1.5 mm. then broke everything in with a machine wound 9 turn. (he he) if the belt doesn't break with a mod ..... then it's sure to hold up in stock.

but on to my questions....do you know if losi's coming out with new camber link locations to change roll center? i.g. the way tamiya did on thier world edition Evo & 414 cars? notice how the linkages mount vertically to the chassis?

and two...are you on losi's A/B team or are you sponsored some other way. right now , i'm in the process of compiling my resumes' together for submittal. and i'm is there anything i could add or say to really get thier attention? thanks a heap.

[jkerr0043]

I saw these on RC Tech. Here's a link to the Ebay site for them. I thought I'd get a pair and do some testing. Anyone use these yet? If so what were your findings?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...;category=49219

[AEcrazyT3]

Havent used them yet but make sure you post when you get them.. Im wondering if ALL those shock options are really nessisary.

[jkerr0043]

exactly what I was thinking. Actually I want to see if they're all different than the stock locations or if they used the stock locations and added some.

[TSR6]

nomac - I ran the belt slightly tighter, but probably did not need to. Running it fully loose, it would skip slightly under a quick accel with a stock motor, so i went back to where i normally run anyways - just tight enough to keep it off the bottom plate.

I know nothing about any changes to the losi camber links.

I am not sponsored at all - other than my wallet, but my wallet doesn't supply me well!

About the resume - I've seen what other people have done, and I have heard things said about people behind their back. I think the most important thing to do would to not make youself out to be something you aren't. Don't exadgerate, and don't embellish.

jk - Are those the PRP Racing shock towers? Appears so... I haven't used them personally.

[jkerr0043]

I don't know. I saw them on a guys car on RC Tech and asked him where he got them. He gave me the link to ebay. They say they're factory seconds. I figured for $12 a set, they're worth trying.

[nomac]

thanks T. the resume' is written and will be sent saturday.:cool:

[mwcet8k]

Do any of you ever use proline wheels? I just bought some (along w/ sorex 28r tires) because the LHS was out of Losi. I noticed when I mounted them that I wasn't able to tighten the nut down as far, which caused them to loosen up on all four corners after just two runs.

Should I just tighten them more? Will over tightening cause the wheels to bind (this was a problem in older cars, not sure if it still is)???

[TSR6]

Originally posted by mwcet8k
Do any of you ever use proline wheels? I just bought some (along w/ sorex 28r tires) because the LHS was out of Losi. I noticed when I mounted them that I wasn't able to tighten the nut down as far, which caused them to loosen up on all four corners after just two runs.

Should I just tighten them more? Will over tightening cause the wheels to bind (this was a problem in older cars, not sure if it still is)???

mwc - If you followed the kit's directions to the T and put the spacer between the bearings on all 4 corners, you should not have to worry about binding. Tighten them as much as needed in that case.

If you didn't use the spacer between each axle bearing, then you need to find them and install them.

You may also want to consider replacing your wheel nuts if they are coming off. Just as long as the axle has a little bit of the nylon in the lock nut to grab on to, they should not come off. If they do come off, replace them. Don't pick them off the track and re-use them. Most of the time, there is a reason for them to come off!

[mwcet8k]

Thanks for the feedback. Fortunately, I did install the spacers so I should be fine. I was hesitant to tighten the wheel nuts too much before because of binding. Good to know this is no longer a concern.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by mwcet8k
Thanks for the feedback. Fortunately, I did install the spacers so I should be fine. I was hesitant to tighten the wheel nuts too much before because of binding. Good to know this is no longer a concern.

no prob.

[nomac]

also...if you use alloy or the factory steel nuts, (i "still" do). sorry couldn't help it.:D just flip the nuts around so that the nylon grips the threads before the metal starts to.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by nomac
also...if you use alloy or the factory steel nuts, (i "still" do). sorry couldn't help it.:D just flip the nuts around so that the nylon grips the threads before the metal starts to.

I still use the stock locknuts. :)

You *shouldn't* have to turn them around. There should be enough contact to where that is not nessisary, but that is also an option.

Some people use full nylon wheel nuts too.

[mwcet8k]

The problem seems to be with the proline wheels. They're slightly thicker where the axle runs through the wheel than the Losi's. Consequently, the plastic part of the thread on the lock nut doesn't have as much axle to grab on to. I think if I just crank it a little tighter that will fix it. They actually loosened up enough that I lost an axle pin from the front left. I couldn't figure out why the car was suddenly running so loose. No power to one front wheel will do that!

[TSR6]

I've run Proline wheels many times with no problems at all.

I'm sure if you crank it down, it will be fine.

[nomac]

that's why my S.O.P's are always to flip the fasteners around. this just makes sure there are no problems with any mft's rim off-sets.

[nomac]

but if the car don't sell between now and my tax $$$, i'm gonna go ahead and get the alloy cvd's and add graphite a-arms and shock towers to it and save the car for durham, nc!

[mwcet8k]

What's a good starting suspension setup for asphalt? I'm thinking blue springs, #56 pistons, and 40 wt. oil on all four corners. What do you think? I realize that this will vary depending on unique conditions, but I'm just looking for a good place to start on asphalt tracks in general.

Also, on the setup sheets posted on the losi site a lot of the pro drivers have their pistons "drilled". What does that mean?

[TSR6]

mwcet -

Blue springs, High Roll center, 40-60wt oil, camber links either all the way in, or the second hole from the inside, Shocks 2nd or 3rd hole from the inside, rear shocks outside on the bottom

should be a good starting point...

Drilled pistons - They will take the # drill bit and clean out the holes, it's a little more precise, and the piston holes will always be exactly the same by drilling them out with whatever # drill bit.

[mwcet8k]

Originally posted by TSR6

Blue springs, High Roll center, 40-60wt oil, camber links either all the way in, or the second hole from the inside, Shocks 2nd or 3rd hole from the inside, rear shocks outside on the bottom

should be a good starting point...



Thanks again tsr6. Is that setup with the #56 pistons? I'm assuming it is.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by mwcet8k
Thanks again tsr6. Is that setup with the #56 pistons? I'm assuming it is.

Stock pistons. :)

[Strike 4]

Hey I am getting back into electric with a RTR soon so whasupie!:p Also it the Trinity Monster stock 27T a good motor?

[nomac]

Eh yo! the rest 'o yall rtr owners....click on 'dis page!!!!

WHAAAAAAA-ZAAAAAAAUUUUBBBBIEE!!!


we welcome yet another racer back to electric! yes, the monster is a good choice. most tracks in the (say) 100' x 50 ft range usually start with a 128/33 combo (64 pitch). with full face brushes and the more common red(+) green(-) spring combo.

but you'll have to ask around at your local track to see what brush cut/battery/pinion/spur.....you get get the idea.:cool: is popular. then put your notes together and start putting your own grove together.;)

[JME3]

Question for all of you running a xxx-s. How many degrees of steering are you guys getting up front? I'm getting about 15 degrees of travel. It seemd like it should be more, is this normal. Thanks for the help.

[TSR6]

nomac - I personally don't like full face brushes. I use serrated, and cut brushes ( Diagonal cut, and trailing corner. ) The brushes do not heat up as bad, last longer, and produce more power. I usually ended up gearing around 30/128 for S&N Trackside ( not sure on track dimensions ). I run Red & Purple for springs.

With the Binary ( also a good choice if it is legal at your track ) I run the same brush combo, also with ultra stiff springs, purple, and one that is above purple ( unsure of manufacturer, get it from a local tuner )

JME3 - Just make sure your servo is going to full lock to full lock. With rubber tires, you should only have a couple ( ~3mm ) of clearance between the shock eyelet and the wheel. Remember, the Losi also has acerman built into the car ( inside wheel turns in more ).

[KandL Racing]

Does anyone have a part number/maker for the Matt Francis red aluminum hex hubs for the XXX-S (the one with locking screws). I did some research and found part number TMF1123, but my hobby shop checked with both horizon and great plains and neither have that number listed. Does anyone have these things, or possibly a part number?

Thanks

[creep]

I just checked out Horizon's web site and found "wheel hubs, Matt Francis (4)" on there so thats probably what you want. There aren't any pics or descriptions though so I can't be sure. It's listed under part # TRIRTMF1123. Hope that helps.

[KandL Racing]

Hey thanks, I did search's there, but must not have put in my search terms very well. Horizon has a finicky search engine. I'll give that a try!

[nomac]

two questions please....

1) do composite drive-shafts exist for the xxx-s? if not then has anybody tried/liked the full titanium set? i don't know who makes it but a set sure would be sweet!

2) who else has an alloy gear adapter? i saw the MF version and i think the price is highway robbery!!! there's gotta be a less exspensive one out there somewhere.(spelling...lol)

[TSR6]

Your lhs may not have had the right prefix before the part number depending on what type of search they did with the horizon software. It's funky...

Nomac - I would stay away from the MF spur adaptor - It's heavy, and I know someone who bought one that was out of round. The recesses weren't drilled straight or something like that. It also appears that Losi may be working on something similar ( from seeing Todd & Brians Losi's earlier this month.


I would at least hold off....

[nomac]

gotcha "T".;)

[Strike 4]

Hey guys I am curious on Losi's website it says, "Powerful 19-turn motor with replaceable brushes," does the car come with replacable brushes and what about the comm doesn't that have to be cut? Why isnt it mentioned? Also anyone know the stock steering servo's speculations? I assume the stock speed control has a 15 turn limit? Is it reversable?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Strike 4
Hey guys I am curious on Losi's website it says, "Powerful 19-turn motor with replaceable brushes," does the car come with replacable brushes and what about the comm doesn't that have to be cut? Why isnt it mentioned? Also anyone know the stock steering servo's speculations? I assume the stock speed control has a 15 turn limit? Is it reversable?

1. It does not come with spare brushes. It just means that you CAN replace the brushes if needed.

2. Im not sure if it is a sealed endbell motor or not, so you might not be able to cut it ( sealed = cheaper generally.. ) But yes, you should cut it when you change the brushes.

3. It's just a standard servo

not sure on the speedo specs

[Strike 4]

I hope it's sealed I don't care much for power since I am new to electric on road and need to learn how to drive.

Thanks alot, Strike 4

[TSR6]

If you are racing at a track, they may not allow you to run that motor in stock class, just a FYI.

You may need to purchase a stock motor. If you are just bashing, you are A - OK

[spenzalii]

I can't remember if this was asked in the past, but here goes:

how wide a tire can you fit on the XXX-S? I plan on running asphalt once the snow goes away, and they usually run foams. I vagely remember using a 30mm NitroShoe (the only thing they had) and the rim looked to have rubbed against the lower shock mount. Now, I'm not sure if I was running 0 ofset or not. I'd like to throw some Speedminds on there, but not if it may pop the shocks off mid run!

[TSR6]

most guys just run 28mm tires, with AE hexes to space it out, away from the shocks.

[spenzalii]

Teh AE hexes are bigger (wider) than the Losi hexes? Is that also on the aluminnum hexes? I got a set of dynamite hexes on the car now, but will swap to the AE ones if they fit the axles.

Now to see if the shop carries 28mm foams...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Teh AE hexes are bigger (wider) than the Losi hexes? Is that also on the aluminnum hexes? I got a set of dynamite hexes on the car now, but will swap to the AE ones if they fit the axles.

Now to see if the shop carries 28mm foams...

I only know that the AE plastic hubs widen the car just enough to keep it off the shock eyelet.

Also, you may need to run the wheel nuts backwards, buy low profile nuts, or all nylon nuts. With the stock nuts, and the AE hexes, I don't think the axle catches the nylon in the locknut.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Well,I'm back now.My losi's in pieces being repaired with christmas parts...:D It just feels so good to post again...:)

[Strike 4]

Hey does anyone know were I can buy a Ferrari F355 shell for the XXX-S?

[talon51]

Proline makes an F360 Modena body...the 360 and 355 are nearly identical right??

[Strike 4]

No the 355 is way different look at Ferrari's website Ferrari.com...

[AEcrazyT3]

Heres an odd question... Has anyone had a problem with there XXX-S spinning out on take offs? When I have a stock monster in it I get good take offs without wheel spin. Drop a 19T in and I get some wheel spin. I stuck a 11T and the car practically jumped off the ground... Well it was more like severe spinning and bouncing.
I get great handling out of it when the car is in motion but Im worried that if it takes off like this it could set me back some during our up coming race season....
Heres my Setup.....
GT7 set for aggressive stock...
11T speed gems motor (my play motor)
Take off 27s rubbers...
and blue springs all around...

[TSR6]

Originally posted by AEcrazyT3
Heres an odd question... Has anyone had a problem with there XXX-S spinning out on take offs? When I have a stock monster in it I get good take offs without wheel spin. Drop a 19T in and I get some wheel spin. I stuck a 11T and the car practically jumped off the ground... Well it was more like severe spinning and bouncing.
I get great handling out of it when the car is in motion but Im worried that if it takes off like this it could set me back some during our up coming race season....
Heres my Setup.....
GT7 set for aggressive stock...
11T speed gems motor (my play motor)
Take off 27s rubbers...
and blue springs all around...

Nope!

Where do you have your camber links? your shocks? what oil?


I have a pretty good setup for CS-27's and Carpet.

[Wicked XXX-S]

Hey everyone,

I am looking fpr some new wheels for my xxx-s and I am just wondering if ther eis anythign I need to knwo before I buy. Like is there any companys whos wheels won't fit I have been looking at prolines and hpi's wheels.

ANy info would be great.

THanks
Jason

[TSR6]

Just as long as you use the standard hex ( included with the kit, the larger ones ) with std. wheels, and the Losi hex with losi wheels, you will be fine.

[Wicked XXX-S]

If I get these can I get anyones I want.

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/d...p?prod=LOSA3260

[TSR6]

bad link, try again.

[TSR6]

i typed the part number at the end of the link into horizon.... and yes.... with that you can run either losi or std wheels... but that comes with the kit.


If you arent running losi wheels right now, dont worry about it. If you are... you need to find your std hex or keep running losi wheels

[Wicked XXX-S]

I got the car through first through a trade so I don't have the other hex's.

But so if I buy that kit I can pick up some new wheels. I am looking at the proline gumbys http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/wheels/2646/2646.html.

So thanks and I jsut want to make sure that if I pick up that kit I can pick up these wheels. Also is it the same size wheel pin?

Jason

[TSR6]

Yeah, same size pin.

They sent you the Losi ( small ) hex, not the std???

[Wicked XXX-S]

Ya it came with the losi hex. That also fits my Hardcore Racing wheels too.

http://community.webshots.com/s/image9/5/26/20/114252620QTCPkv_ph.jpg

[*Supreme Losi*]

Spenz,check out what I got for Christmas but got buried in clothes and other items!:D

[spenzalii]

What is that, one of the new 'Shack X-Mod Skylines? Looks like it was in an accident before it got hidded under your clothes:D

Anybody know if Losi is considering making a mini XXX-S? I got the M18 and it really is nice. BUT I'd rather stick with a Losi...

[TSR6]

not likely :p

[cardboard]

whew. read thru all 15 pages. my corneas are fusing together.......
Anyway, is there any trick to getting the o-ring retainers off the shock bodies? I normally use a needle-nose pliers but the hex on the retainer is stripping.....
Also, does anyone have some spare retainers,o-rings, and 42t pulleys? heh.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by cardboard
whew. read thru all 15 pages. my corneas are fusing together.......
Anyway, is there any trick to getting the o-ring retainers off the shock bodies? I normally use a needle-nose pliers but the hex on the retainer is stripping.....
Also, does anyone have some spare retainers,o-rings, and 42t pulleys? heh.

i take the retainer off with a flathead, or a xacto.

..and i bet your lhs has some.. :p

[cardboard]

My LHS dosen't stock losi, they call Losi cars Lose-eis.
So are the O-rings standard size? If ae o-rings are the same I should be able to pick some up.
Also, I think were talking about different parts of the car here. I'm talking that about the hex thing that screws into the shock body.
And
I tried that bearing thing you told me. Some of them are actually packed with carpet threads, grease, and grime. Thanks for the advice....

[creep]

Stick something through the top mounting hole of the shock body (like a screwdriver or allen wrench) for better grip and use a 7/16" wrench to turn the hex part. .

[cardboard]

ah, thanks.
Which one of the shock bodies has less threads? I have 1 with less threads and 3 with more threads. Is the one with less threads the .28 body?
Also, what is a good suspension setup to start with for a tight carpet track? 80 wt oil seems a bit thick.....

[TSR6]

Originally posted by cardboard
ah, thanks.
Which one of the shock bodies has less threads? I have 1 with less threads and 3 with more threads. Is the one with less threads the .28 body?
Also, what is a good suspension setup to start with for a tight carpet track? 80 wt oil seems a bit thick.....

the .28 bodies are shorter, for the front only. The rear uses .36 bodies.

I thought you were talking about the O-ring retainer inside the shock cartridge.

I use 50wt oil in my shocks, with blue springs, front one-way, front arms spaced forwards, camber links all the way in front and rear, all the way out on the carrier in the rear. 4* castor, 0*pin carrier front and rear, shocks 2nd out from the inside front and rear. stock pistons in the shocks

[cardboard]

by shorter, do you mean less threads? Or shorter in length?
How does that front one-way perform? Not for small tracks, right?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by cardboard
by shorter, do you mean less threads? Or shorter in length?
How does that front one-way perform? Not for small tracks, right?

The body itself is shorter.

I love the one-way, but not all drivers do. Myself, I'm consistantly faster with the oneway. With diffs or spool, i was running a couple tenths slower per lap. I spent a whole afternoon playing with the car and different diffs, diff settings, ect. I just wasnt as fast without the oneway.

This is me personally - and I run it on any track, although the greatest advantage is longer sweeping corners.

[cardboard]

hmph....
This is what came with my car:(again, dam pre-owned cars:D )
Two identical back shock bodies
One golden shock body, exactly the same as the black one but different color
And one golden shock body, but has less threads than the other three. They are all the same length.....
From mounting eyelet to the threads on the inside of the body, they are still alittle bit shorter than a .36 shock shaft(in its entirety), so i guess these must all be .28 shock shafts, and one of them is just different?

[masshybrid]

Well guys, just picked up a xxxs off ebay and after running only offroad for the past year, I'm looking forward to something different. Can't wait to get this thing up and running. Is anyone using a brushless setup? How is it on the track? Turning, stopping, etc. I just recently pulled the brushless from my B4 and replaced it with a gt7 and chameleon and am amazed at how much easier it is to control. Just wondering if I should do the same with the xxxs. Any input would be appreciated.

[thedominator]

I use the novak system in my car and love it. I think it is very controllable.

[Strike 4]

Originally posted by masshybrid
Well guys, just picked up a xxxs off ebay and after running only offroad for the past year, I'm looking forward to something different. Can't wait to get this thing up and running. Is anyone using a brushless setup? How is it on the track? Turning, stopping, etc. I just recently pulled the brushless from my B4 and replaced it with a gt7 and chameleon and am amazed at how much easier it is to control. Just wondering if I should do the same with the xxxs. Any input would be appreciated.

You're going to love it I just got my first on road as well, I don't have a BL yet but I am getting a SS4300 as soon as my LHS gets it in...

[howielong]

Hey guys. I'm thinking of getting this car soon. Maybe on sunday or something, for my birthday. But i hope my parents would let me get it. If i do get this car is there any thing i should look out for. I was going to get the RTR. Plus what is the fastest 19T motor for this. Thanks in advance.

Steve.

[nomac]

i got an rtr for ya! graphite chassis, arms, diff covers. alloy rear cvd's. hpi & stock shocks. duratrax streak esc. futaba MS radio. kit body and NEW take-off 27gl's.

[nomac]

almost forgot....epic machine wound 10 turn motor, battery pack with P2K2 motor for $210 shipped.

[howielong]

Cool but the epic would be to much motor for me now. i have fast cars but i don't drive them fast.

[nomac]

fast? really?! it's only a double.:eek: it's the slowest mod i have. most of the time i run 8 to 10 turn singles. usually tri-rotored flatliners.

oh well, thanks for the reply.:D

[howielong]

No no fast for me. If i would drive it, it would be broke in a few mins. I have a hard time driving really fast cars sometimes.

[KandL Racing]

Don't feel bad, I am the same way :) I run a stock motor in mine, but we run on a pretty small track, so anything more than a 19t would be way to much.

[howielong]

Oh i'm not. do you know of a good 19T motor to run.

[KandL Racing]

I have a 19t in my wifes T3 (ack! :> ) It's a Fanton motor, has held up really well. And I cut the comm/change brushes about every 20 runs. When I have to replace it, I'll probably go with a reedy 19t, I've had really good luck with their mods in my T3.

[masshybrid]

I have a Reedy as well ( 19t pro), however I think the Chameleon 2 is a little faster. You could try the Epic Binary, I hear they are fast as well.

[masshybrid]

Well guys/gals,

I ran onroad/carpet yesterday for the first time ever. Used my new( used) xxxs and brushless. Only two words to describe carpet:

fast and difficult.

However, looking forward to improving my driving skills, and learning setup techniques to help me in dirt.

[cardboard]

yeech.
The stock servo saver moves about 2mm each direction when mounted on the servo. What's a good replacement for it? It's a hitec servo btw.
Also, are aluminum steering bellcranks worth it? will they pick up some of the slop?

[cardboard]

Also, is around 2 seconds worth of freewheeling(pretty hard spin) under no load on a car stand with no motor attached average?

[elcid4300]

Hey everybody,

Just picked up a xxx-s (soon to be graphite!) and absolutely LOVE the car!! My only problems are, I can't quite understand the relationship between "droop" and "ride height". The manual seems somewhat vague on setting the ride height(is it done with the spring tension? or do I crank down the droop screws?) I have ordered the rigid bumper set after noticing that the droop screws flex the stock bumpers, hopefully they will help! If someone could shed some light on my questions, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
E

[nomac]

losi has a killer car...but their droop adjustments stink! they say you need to "over limit" the shocks. that is, use like .060+ in the front shocks and .090+ spacers in the rear. then screw or unscrew the shock bottoms in or out to get droop.
(for front use the bottom of the setscrew boss ; rear use the center of the hub) 2 for the front & 5 for the rear is about right.

i hate this so i made me some droop plates and fixed them to the chassis. i then drilled little holes in the beefiest part of the a-arms and ran teeny "+" head screws in 'em. now my droop is easy to adjust without all the fuss. I love it!!:D

[cardboard]

Originally posted by elcid4300
Hey everybody,

Just picked up a xxx-s (soon to be graphite!) and absolutely LOVE the car!! My only problems are, I can't quite understand the relationship between "droop" and "ride height". The manual seems somewhat vague on setting the ride height(is it done with the spring tension? or do I crank down the droop screws?) I have ordered the rigid bumper set after noticing that the droop screws flex the stock bumpers, hopefully they will help! If someone could shed some light on my questions, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
E
It's a bit of both. Running more droop will result in a lower ride height, but spring tension is the big factor in ride height. Droop should only be adjusted when you want to, uhm, set the droop.:D

[TSR6]

your droop settings should not affect your ride height.

[elcid4300]

I spoke to Bill at Losi today and he was quite helpful as far as explaining the whole thing to me (though I still need to sit down and try it all)..EXCELLENT customer service at Losi, many people in the RC industry could learn a thing or two from them! Anyway, could someone give me an idea of a decent base set-up for carpet? I went through many of the pages in this forum and found nothing concrete. I have also checked the Losi website and saw the team set-ups, but wasn't sure which one would be a good starting point. I understand that this is only a STARTING BASE set-up, I am not asking for exact answers just something to get me in the ballpark. My carpet track is fairly small with a few tight turns.

Thanks again,
EPM

[nomac]

try the one on page 111 of the rosewood tread. you can find it under the club/tracks forum.

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi, All.

I had my XXX-S for about over an year. One problem that I can't figure is that severe chatter/noise coming from both front CVD shafts.

I have and have had so many RC vehicles with front universal or CVD (4wd), but I've never seen anything like this.

Even with reduced front steering dual rate settings, whenever steering reaches both end points, front CVD shafts make awful noisy chatter.
Nothing is loose and everything seems to be fine.

Any idea?

[talon51]

My car does that as well. For a while I thought it was the front rims rubbing on the spring perches, and then I found out it does it with the wheels off. My CVD bones are straight, and the axles are in good shape. Somethings gotta be binding on some part of the knuckle or the hub carrier...I just haven't taken the time to give them a closer inspection.

BTW, anyone try the new longbelt kit (LOSA3280) that Losi came out with a couple weeks ago?

Later,
Talon

[elcid4300]

Hey Extreme,

Just a thought...remove your CVDs and make sure that nothing is loose and you have no excessive wear(pins,setscrew), clean them and your front bearings(check to see those aren't beat too:) ) Then use some "dry lube" on your CVD's(you can get it at any bike shop), it leaves a film that won't attract dust. Hopefully this will help:)

I have the longbelt on order, hopefully by the middle of next week. I hear it is the sh+t!

EPM

[talon51]

I'm gonna order mine today or tomorrow. I'm also gonna rebuild my CVDs and finish installing the Acer Racing Super Polyamide bearings I ordered earlier this week. Most of my bearings were fairly shot, especially the axle bearings. You could tell I haven't been racing in a few months, been too busy, because the inner bearings on 3 of my axles are fused on. I gave them a healthy dose of WD-40 last night, so hopefully, they'll come off today, otherwise I'm gonna have to force them off, which usually ends up with the bearing exploding and the inner race still fused to the axle...dremel time...

Is graphite powder considered a "dry lube" or are you talking about something else?

[elcid4300]

The stuff I am talking about is by Finish Line, Pedro's, White lightning, etc. It is a liquid when you put it on and then it dries to a "waxy" film...ALOT cleaner that oils or grease, doesn't hold dirt as much, and is very slick!

EPM

[JME3]

The losi webpage is a bit unclear about the long belt system. What exactly does this long belt give you?

[TSR6]

Originally posted by JME3
The losi webpage is a bit unclear about the long belt system. What exactly does this long belt give you?

larger pully in the belt tensioner, removes the "kink" in the belt in that section. Improves efficiency

[KandL Racing]

Our local R/C club has been asked to put on a drag racing expo and some of our members have drag racing cars, but all I have that would do onroad is my XXX-S. I currently run in the stock class, but I have a 10x3 or 11x2 that I can put in it. And I'd like to find some wide rear tires for it, fronts could stay as is. Maybe raise the ride height a bit since I am not sure how good the track surface will be. Anyone have any recommendations or ideas? Would really appreciate it.

RCCA did a L3 conversion awhile back and they used Parma rear wheels, but I don't think those will work with the XXX-S. I guess that's my main problem now is finding a (maybe)30mm tire that will fit the XXX-S

[Aluma]

you mean like these?

wide wheels... (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGL04&P=7)

[KandL Racing]

Yea, like those (with tires... ) but will those fit the XXX-S hex?

[Aluma]

those have a normal hex that'll fit a TC3 or any touring car...If you're using TakeOff preglued wheels which will fit a TC3, then I dont see why they wouldnt fit a XXX-S. Unless they have some weird small or larger hex....?

[microrcdude]

when you buy a xxxs, it comes with two hex sets, a 12mm (standard hex) and the losi hex (street weapon)

[mwcet8k]

If you're just looking to have some fun with it and don't care if you win or not, I say go for it. Just keep in mind that any kind of direct drive car (i.e. Associated RC10L3) will have a huge advantage over a touring car. They have a lot less drive train resistance and weight to overcome.

[KandL Racing]

OH yea, it's all gonna be for fun. At my point in my racing "career" it better be fun or I ain't doin it! I am gonna be putting street tires on my wifes T3 and she is gonna run it (betcha that'll handle good!)
I am going to put a truck body on the XXX-S, maybe mess with the stance a bit and try to get a Pro Stock Truck look out of it. Should be *alot* of fun.

Thanks for the ideas guys, I'll take some photos and post them when I get it all finished up.

[Strike 4]

Sup I finally got my car together here is my setup...

XXX-S Touring Sedan Kit
Novak SS
Futaba Magnum JR Transmiter
Futaba S3003 Servo
Futaba R123F RX
TRC 28MM Racing Foams

Ummm I come in peace...:D

Oh and one question when the car moves foward the belt kind of moves to the left of the spur and reverse it moves to the right any idea why?

[cardboard]

went to the track today. i broke:
1 rear hub
1 shock shaft
1 outdrive
1 bumper
anyway, I already replaced all of it besides the shaft. i bought a trinity red bumper-how do you fit it on?I can force it on but the diff case is in the way of it slipping on.
are the titanium nitride shock shafts that much better than the steel ones?
also, did anyone notice the list price on the outdrives? $12.95 for two????jeeze.

[Strike 4]

I imagine you are going to have to cut a bit of the foam off and fit it, I think the only advantage of the TI is it is more durable.


Guys my front left shock keeps going down slow even when spring is fully sprung out why is this?

[howielong]

Man carboard did you hit the boards or something. Then the nitride shafts are much better then steel. They offer more smothness.

[cardboard]

heh, my first time on the track, i was really started to get the hang of it towards the end. the funny thing is how the wheels are sooo sensitive to impact. i went full speed into the boards and i hit the bumper, but when i gently hit the wheels, bam.
what's a good replacment for the stock suspension ball links? the shock shaft broke with most of the threads in the link and i doubt i can drill it out. i don't really want to buy the losi part because of parts availability.

[masshybrid]

Yeah, those boards aren't very forgiving are they? First time out I broke the Losi "stiff" bumper and a front a-arm. Live and learn.

[cardboard]

hmm, i was running jaco 24mm dbl pinks all around and wasn't getting much grip on carpet, what would be a better compound to start with? i want one that's kinda neutral so i can tune the rest of the car.

[nomac]

try jaco orange/purple up front and purple in the rear. what's your current carpet set-up?

[cardboard]

Dbl pink foams all around with WD-40 as a softner
Purple springs all around
80 wt oil, orange piston, .36 shaft back
40 wt oil, red(or pink) piston, .28 shaft front
4mm ride height
3 degree camber all around
I don't really remeber my droop settings, i think its 6mm in front and 3mm in back
stock pivot blocks
4R main block, 0F main block
0 offset rear hubs
4 degree offset front hubs
with the shortened wheelbase
shock location is closest to the wheels all around
with loose diffs
hpi lotus elise body with stock wing
I really have't caught on to tuning cars.......so please, point out whatever corrections are necessary.
hmm.....does anyone have a fix for a partially stripped droop screw? the ca trick i normally use isn't strong enough for this.

[talon51]

I usually run magenta rears and purple fronts, or if it gets a bit twitchy, I switch to double purple fronts. You might be running too much camber, I normally run -1 degree all around, and -2 in the front is as much as I've ever used. If you use too much camber, you car may feel twitchy too, because all of the cornering force is distributed over a smaller contact patch. Try running -1 degree of camber all around, it should make your car a bit more driveable.
For carpet I run:
Front:
4.5 mm ride height
4 degree hubs
0F main block
High roll center
Middle wheelbase
shocks and camber links in hole #3
60wt oil, black springs, kit pistons
no front droops screws
.060 sway bar
1 degree of toe out
front one way

Rear:
5 mm ride height
std offset hubs and toe
0R main block
Losi Low roll center
shocks and camber links in hole #2
60 wt oil, green springs, kit pistons
rear droop at 5 (I think...)

This setup works well for me and my track, but I started with a setup that I think TSR6 posted a while ago and made a bunch of changes to suit my driving style, so find a good base setup and then make changes that work well for your driving style, etc.

[nomac]

cardboard...try talon's set-up. it looks like it has good on-power steering coming off the corners. good and precise going in (just watch your steering and braking input. :D gotta love those one-ways...)
if it's too "responsive" i'd try this..... goto an orange/purple type front tire and a purple rear tire. i usually like to go just by shore #'s. a 42F with a 40F Ellegi is may fav! if you can get 30mm to work without rubbing then go for it. if not ,then try 28mm. bring the rear a-arms back to center. that way you really don't have to have a "special" set-up 'cause of the short wheelbase. here again i use thinner spacers like in a shimm kit. to get it right where i want it.

and 50wt rear would keep the rear more square if you go in a corner too deep but still want to floor it. and lastly...loose the wd-40. it just don't work like it did back in the days. use a track approved sauce that won't burn your lungs out! lol. i know it's a lot but hopefully something in here will help you become more happy and comfortable racing your losi.

;)

[*Supreme Losi*]

What would I need to do to my XXX-S to convert it into a XXX-4?

Thanks in advance:)

[nomac]

OOOOO00000oooooo, good one.

[jkerr0043]

A lot more money than it would cost to buy a XXX4. There's not really that many parts that carry over. The diffs, are really about it.

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

well i have a xxxs, and a couple xx4s, if i took the spindles and rear carriers off one xx4, and the drive shafts as well as the front and rear arms, all i would need is shock toweres and shocks right?

[cardboard]

I think we are talking about different tracks here. the track i raced at is quite tight and has very short straights with sharp turns. pictures of the track can be found here: www.willishobbies.com .i don't think a one-way would work too well there. is this the setup i have in mind for when i go back next saturday:
Front:
4 mm ride height
low roll center
no droop screws
4 degree hubs
0F main block
short wheelbase
camber link in hole #4
shock mounting hole closest to diff case
60 wt oil, unknown springs, stock pistons(red)
possibly a sway bar
2 degree toe in
purple fronts
-1 camber
rear:
4 mm ride height
offset hubs
longest camber link possible(outer hub hole and hole closest to diff case)
0R main block
Low roll center
standing up shocks
60 wt oil, stock pistons
i don't know about droop, the right side is pretty much unadjustable because the hole is partially stripped :/
can anyone reccommend:
A good set of tuning springs(colors please)
good camber and toe guage
odorless traction compound
Also, what are the differences between pistons? i took out the calipers and couldn't find any difference between orange and red.
thanks

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by primuswoostinkinhoo
well i have a xxxs, and a couple xx4s, if i took the spindles and rear carriers off one xx4, and the drive shafts as well as the front and rear arms, all i would need is shock toweres and shocks right?

Not really. XXX4 chassis is longer, suspension mounts are in at different angles, it just wouldn't work. Not to mention the body wouldn't fit because of the shorter wheelbase.

[nomac]

i would suggest hooking up with a fellow losi racer up there. btw, it's cool how they have the "old skool" honda body! i STILL run that thing!

[TSR6]

Bearings, and some screws. Thats about all that converts over.

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

wont the xxx4 diff covers bold on the xxxs chassis, and then the shock tovers from the xxx4 would fit?
i knew the body owuldnt fit i have a xx4 thats converts from a street weapon, same deal, with a lil creative trimming the body will fit and with the shorter wheel base it changes the handleing, although i havent dirven either of my xx4s enough to notice the differnce im sure its there.

[jkerr0043]

But what you're no seeing, is every suspension part, all the CVD's, Shocks, front bumper, shock towers, hex drives, turn buckles, etc... would have to be changed. You'd spend as much money on parts to build it and still not have it right than if you just bought one. If you want one but can't spend $300 on a new G+, look on Ebay for one of the original plastic cars. I've seen them go for $100 on there.

[TSR6]

translation: it's not even worth trying.

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

im gonna try it anyways, ive got driveshafts, ive got arms, hinge pins, hub carriers, spindles, and shocks. all i need is diff covers, hinge pin braces, shock towers i believe.

[Strike 4]

I went to the track and had a few problems, for one my battery kept falling out and got hit 3 times by traffic it was a stick pack and I was wondering if there is any solution? Another problem I had was setting up the car, why did they make the turnbuckles right under the shock tower?! I also had the weel nut fly off 3 times and I had it as tight as possible without craking the rim, I guess the only solution to that is thread lock? Well I am very satisfied with the car otherwise keep in mind I have the "old school" version and would never go back to AE.

[thedominator]

Originally posted by Strike 4
I went to the track and had a few problems, for one my battery kept falling out and got hit 3 times by traffic it was a stick pack and I was wondering if there is any solution? Another problem I had was setting up the car, why did they make the turnbuckles right under the shock tower?! I also had the weel nut fly off 3 times and I had it as tight as possible without craking the rim, I guess the only solution to that is thread lock? Well I am very satisfied with the car otherwise keep in mind I have the "old school" version and would never go back to AE.

I use a re-usable zip-tie and tie the stick pack to the battery hold down. I have never had a problem wiht the wheel nuts. you may need some new ones.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Strike 4
I went to the track and had a few problems, for one my battery kept falling out and got hit 3 times by traffic it was a stick pack and I was wondering if there is any solution? Another problem I had was setting up the car, why did they make the turnbuckles right under the shock tower?! I also had the weel nut fly off 3 times and I had it as tight as possible without craking the rim, I guess the only solution to that is thread lock? Well I am very satisfied with the car otherwise keep in mind I have the "old school" version and would never go back to AE.

I usually figure that once a wheel nut falls off... its not worth putting back on the car.

Get some new nuts, and make sure the nylon is catching the threads.

[cardboard]

Originally posted by Strike 4
I went to the track and had a few problems, for one my battery kept falling out and got hit 3 times by traffic it was a stick pack and I was wondering if there is any solution? Another problem I had was setting up the car, why did they make the turnbuckles right under the shock tower?! I also had the weel nut fly off 3 times and I had it as tight as possible without craking the rim, I guess the only solution to that is thread lock? Well I am very satisfied with the car otherwise keep in mind I have the "old school" version and would never go back to AE.
I found the strap in stick pack position dosen't really hold the battery. put a sheet of thin(or thick) plastic over the batt to keep pressure on it.
i went to the track today also, and all i broke was a rear ball stud! what an improvement!
I had a huge problem with the back of the car spinning out, i switched to blue springs and 28mm blue foams, seemed to help, but i think it's just my massive amount of rear droop.
BTW, most of the threads from the long threaded ballstud are still in the hub, how should i get it out? i'm thinking of drilling it out but it's going to be tedious.

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

sometimes when you break a ball stud or a screw off in the hole, you can take another screw and screw it in the same hole and push the old one out far enough to grab it with pliers, otherwise get a new hub i dunno if drilling it out is worth it

[Strike 4]

Thanks for all of the replies I will try to zip tie the battery in and get new weel nuts; I think the fact I broke nothing is awesome considering I let my friend drive and he went WOT (with a SS5800) into a board causing the ESC to pop off and battery skin to peel halfway but still not one broken part. Right now I am fixing my CVD the bolt that required threadlock to keep the pin in kept coming lose so my guess is it didn't have threadlock when I installed it. Is it me or is the stock bumper on this car very flimsy? I have a small indent of the front diff case on it:p .

Thanks again, Strike 4

[cardboard]

The stock bumper is a POS, it collaspes on impact, thats why you see markinggs from the diff case......
get the BRP or matt francis one.
I think the reason why you didn't break anything is because you hit the bumper/bumper plate-the chassis deflects straight-on impacts well, but if you hit the wheels......ouch......

[Strike 4]

I see so as a reasonable upgrade would you suggest Ti turnbuckles or a black belt? How long did the steel turnbuckles last in your case?

[cardboard]

i bought the car used with lunsford titanium turnbuckles, it still has stock turnbuckles in the rear and they seem to work fine. they didn't even break in the impact that cracked the ballstud, which is something.....
i would'nt suggest upgrading parts until you break the stock ones.......titanium and graphite is king:D .
you should buy some tuning springs, tires, and other tuning parts and guages.

[cardboard]

hmm......
does anyone have a pic of how Kinwald cut out his chassis? I want to try it, do you think i would tweak the chassis by just using a cutoff wheel?

[talon51]

I don't have a pic of it, but as far as I remeber, he had it done on a milling machine. He removed material from the sides of the belt tunnel, but I can't remeber if it was all the way through, of just partially. I wouldn't recommend doing it with a cutoff wheel because if you slip up, your chassis could be scrap and it would probably leave rough edges and corners. If my car weighed a lot, I would try it, because I work at a machine shop, and have access to the proper tools, but my car barely makes minimum weight at my track as it is...

[Strike 4]

Well here is what I am at I love this car! :)

[mwcet8k]

Originally posted by talon51
but my car barely makes minimum weight at my track as it is...

What is the minimum weight for touring cars??

How much of a difference in weight is there between a standard xxxs and a xxxs graphite plus? Anyone know?

[cardboard]

I believe the ROAR sedan minimum weight limit is 3.31 lbs, ready to run.

[talon51]

That sounds right to me...but for some reason, the min weight at my track is 3.35. My car weighs 3.36. I had to add .1 lbs to my 12th scale too, it weighed 1.85, so I had to add .11 lbs to get it legal.

[choobs]

^^^^^Prettyyyyy Caaaaaaaaaaar!!!!!!!!!!

[Strike 4]

I got another problem :p the CVD pin keeps falling out! It is extremely annoying, I thread lock them and tighten them as tight as possible. I was thinking about getting red thread lock what do you guys think?


Thanks Choobs, Strike 4

[cardboard]

don't use red threadlock. It's too strong for RC applications and is basically overkill.
Ok, I went to the track again today, with my revised droop, and still had problems with rear grip. I know it's not the driver because several other people drove it, and complained about the exact same thing. My steering EPA was set down a bit, and I set my dual-rate down to about 80%, but it would still lose rear traction going into turns under power. I think it's a massive amount of oversteer under power. I even did some 360s doing turns under 3/4s throttle down the straight. So, since it's not the driver, or the steering, it must be the setup. Here's my current setup:
Front:
24mm dbl pinks
2 degree toe in
4mm ride height
-1 camber
0 carrier
3mm of droop
Arms spaced back
Shocks mounted in hole 1
Camber link in hole 2
Shocks: 60 wt oil, #56 piston, Purple springs
Back:
Stock toe-in
0 offset hubs
4.5mm ride height
-1 camber
4mm droop
arms spaced in the middle
camber link in hole A in the hub, hole 1 in the tower
Shocks mounted in hole 4, inside hole on the arm
26mm purples
Shocks:80 wt oil, 55 piston, Silver springs
Chassis:
battery placed towards the back
Paragon ground effects used all around
Monster geared at 24t with an 88t spur
Elise body
I'm thinking it's the camber link.
HELP!

[Strike 4]

Yeah add some camber, I assume this is on carpet...

[smoky]

i was wondering if you guys could offer some help . i just built my xxxs and when i first ran it if flew but now it is slowing down considerably. i wasnt really thinking motor(speed gems pro 12x1)be3cause ive only run maybe 5 packs through it testing it and setting it up. my battery seems fine as do all the other electronics. i dont feel any thing binding the drivetrain. although im thinkin my next step is to disassemble the drive train and diffs and see what a fresh rebuild does. well if anyone has any suggestions or thoughts id appreiciate it thanks.

[Strike 4]

Originally posted by smoky
i was wondering if you guys could offer some help . i just built my xxxs and when i first ran it if flew but now it is slowing down considerably. i wasnt really thinking motor(speed gems pro 12x1)be3cause ive only run maybe 5 packs through it testing it and setting it up. my battery seems fine as do all the other electronics. i dont feel any thing binding the drivetrain. although im thinkin my next step is to disassemble the drive train and diffs and see what a fresh rebuild does. well if anyone has any suggestions or thoughts id appreiciate it thanks.

Have you tried tightening the diffs? I belive Losi says to tighten them after the first 3 minutes of running...

[cardboard]

it's the motor. Get the comm cut and new brushes.
If it's still slow after that, check your batteries, granted that you have checked the car runs freely.

[smoky]

thanks im gonna try the diff first i didnt even think of that. i really cant see it being the motor honestly it may have maybe 15-20 min max. then ill try the battey i need to get a voltometer to see if its getting a full charge im im using sanyo 3000 from trinity matched.im thinkin it may be them i bought them used they were brand new but dud said they had been sitting for a number of months . i tried cyclin them but my charger isnt the greatest its a duratrax intellipeak.but illcheck the list see what happens and let ya know thanks for tha advice!!!!!

[smoky]

sorry but could some one please help me out and let me know how to tighten the diff. i really need the help thanks

[Strike 4]

The diff adjustment screw should be on the left side of the car inside the diff outdrive when looking at it from behind, so you have several options to acess the screw. The most easy is to pop a ball cup off (one for camber adjustment). Once you do this use a flat head screw driver and turn the bolt inside clockwise, I make mine as tight as possible so that I am sure it wont slip...

[cardboard]

figured i better bump this thread....just making conversation.
i went to the track yesterday, turned out it was hung bearings in the wheel hubs causing the under-power thru turns spinouts. :rolleyes:
i was having some problems with understeer-i'm pretty sure it was the caster. i was running 6 degrees of caster in front, and even with maximum steering throw, the car was still making very wide turns. i picked up some 2 degree hub carriers-i'll see how that works out next saturday.
i'm still having some problems with rear bite- i think i'm going to pick up some 1 degree rear hubs and see how that works.
i also somehow cracked my chassis directly in front of the rear wheel behind the battery. it was on the corner closest to the tire. big crack, just ca glued it together and sanded it, i hope it dosen't tweak the car too badly. just felt like saying that.....
does anyone have any tips for preventing chunking of foam tires? i chunked one of my front tires to hell-it was brand new too. :mad:
o, and if you don't have the TL shock matching tool now, go buy it. i got mine in the mail, wow, after about an hour, my rear shocks are pretty damn smooth. heh, i even found the bottom half of an o-ring catridge at the bottom of my shock body. go figure
:confused: .
and i'm still waiting for those damned .28 TiNi shock shafts to be delivered to my LHS. it's been a month, and they are still on backorder :mad: .

[mwcet8k]

it's been a month, and they are still on backorder :mad: .
Have you already paid for them? I'm all for supporting your LHS, but that's ridiculous. I ordered one from Stormer not long ago because I had the same problem and got it right away.

[mwcet8k]

Did you have any problems fitting a brushless motor in the car? I've wondered if the cutout in the chassis is long enough. Looks like it's a pretty tight fit.

[cardboard]

Have you already paid for them? I'm all for supporting your LHS, but that's ridiculous. I ordered one from Stormer not long ago because I had the same problem and got it right away.
Nope, didn't pay for them. I ordered them at a store that i don't normally go to-it's been on backorder for a month now. I got fed up, went to my track, and found they were also out of stock. I ordered it at my LHS, they say it should be there wensday, i hope they are right.
About the brushless, i would assume it fits.

[spenzalii]

Anybody else having a tough time getting that black belt kit? I ordered mine about 2 weeks ago and nothing...

[cardboard]

where did you order it from? the black belt kit is in high demand and i'm sure a bunch of places are backordered.

[thedominator]

Did you have any problems fitting a brushless motor in the car? I've wondered if the cutout in the chassis is long enough. Looks like it's a pretty tight fit. I had no problem putting in a Novak system and i am sure all other 540 size BL motors fit as well.

[spenzalii]

My LHS. Trying to give them a bit of business. I hope they will have it in before their outdoor season starts (in about 3 weeks). Which reminds me...

For electric, they are running 19T, Chameleon2 based motors ONLY. On a medium track with a very tecnical infield, a nice long sweeper and a lazy switchback (more like a round about), what kind of FDR should I be shooting for (ballpark figure)?

[xxxkat]

Just walked in to a LHS and they had the black belt conversion kit on the wall,they had 4 or 5 of them.. :D Your hobby shop needs to get with the program! if they order(and thats the big IF)it would have been their in 2 to 3 days.I worked at a hobby shop,so I do know this is true.

[jpel200]

Cardboard, I'm am just starting out in touring cars, so this advice may or maynot be right, but from the set ups I have seen, running the battery forward is the way you want to go. I think the weight of it being back is what is making your car spin around when you go into a turn. Just a thought. LOL...

J.D. Pelfrey

[mwcet8k]

The vast majority of the time you should run the battery in the forward position. It also sounds like his suspension setup is off. I would either put firmer springs on the front or software springs on the back. Doing so will reduce the car's ability to steer and give the rear end more bite.

[mwcet8k]

Just curious, what kind of speed controls are you guys running? I'm in the market for a new one and I'm really leaning toward the LRP QC2. I've never owned anything LRP, but from what I've seen I'm pretty impressed with their equipment. I really like how small the QC2 is as well. Just interested in some feedback (and trying to get this thread moving again!).

[cardboard]

for a really active xxx-s thread, go to the rctech one. it's crazy. there's is getting close to 300 pages.
as for esc's, i'm running an LRP super sport. i haven't had a problem with it, but it's really far from high-end, which probably isn't what your looking for.
my car is almost dialed, i just need to try out some rear orange springs to help the loose back end of the car. i've tried blue springs, but i had alot of problems keeping the rear end of the car to the track. besides that, i've been told to ditch my toe-in in favor of 0 degree toe to reduce my understeer. going to give that a try also this weekend.
i hate that damn pivot-ball suspension system. the eyelets pop off and get caught in between the arm and pivot ball commonly, even when they are new, and turn the car into a pivot machine :mad: .
anyway, for anyone that still uses droop screws, get rid of them. they just plain suck.

[mwcet8k]

Wow! You're not kidding about that forum. Awesome.

So if you get rid of the droop screws, what do you use to adjust droop? Spacers in the shocks? I bought some spacers a while back for this purpose, but then I couldn't remember what spacers to use in which shocks to adjust correctly. The local xxxs hotshot told me what to use. No prob, I'll just ask him next time I'm at the track. I'm assuming that you would have to change the spacers if you switched from high to low roll center or vice versa?

[cardboard]

well, being that there is almost no reason to use the high roll blocks, i don't think you'll have a problem.
to adjust droop without screws on the rear shocks, unscrew the eyelets. you get somewhere between 4-5mm of droop with the eyelet fully screwed in. use a tool like the losi shock matcher, or, if you take them completely apart, use a caliper, to get the measurments identical from side to side.
for the front shocks, you use spacers. you hardly get any droop with no spacers in the shocks(somewhere between 0-1mm). it's mostly just experimenting, but most of the xxx-s g+ setup sheets list the size spacer in the shock under the "notes" section, which you can check against the driver's droop. i use one .050 spacer for 2mm of droop.

[bashbrook]

Squat

I have a question about XXXS pivot block placement. I am setting up my car for a indoor carpet track and I was wondering about the position for the rear pivot block. What do you recommend?

[cardboard]

use low roll center blocks, and a 0 block on the lower holes of the front diff case.

[mwcet8k]

well, being that there is almost no reason to use the high roll blocks, i don't think you'll have a problem.


Really? I've noticed on the setup sheets posted on Losi's website that the factory guys sometimes use high roll center.

[cardboard]

the only reason i could think of for that is extremely long, sweeping turns. the low roll blocks really aid in steering, the car just carries soo much more speed through corners. i tried them for the first time last week and couldn't believe the difference they made.

[tophite]

Anyone have any strong opinions about best radio, esc, general all around fast motor for a new xx4????????

[mwcet8k]

I think you meant to post that on the XX-4 thread, but I'll go ahead and give you my two cents here:

JR XS3
LRP Quantum Competition 2
Trinity D6 Mod Motor - if you want a hand wound
Trinity Speed Gems Pro - if you want a cheaper machine wound

[cardboard]

boy, this thread must be dead, we are starting to get pity traffic from the xx-4 thread.
anyway, anyone feel like swapping some spares? i have two sets of high roll pivot blocks(4 each, f & r), a never used battery strap, and a good condition blue belt with the every-other tooth trick done to it, a never used front bumper, and an entire screw set.

[Information Man]

Who make a good, larger bumper for the xxx-s ?? the stock one is kinda small for my liking

[cardboard]

brp or trinity matt francis.

[Information Man]

Great !!, thanks I'll be sure to look at them..

I'll have alot more to post once the weather here gets nice enough to run.

[*Supreme Losi*]

[QUOTE=spenzalii]What is that, one of the new 'Shack X-Mod Skylines? Looks like it was in an accident before it got hidded under your clothes:D
QUOTE]
Actually,I went to paint the bumpers on my X and the paint dripped and screwed my bumpers up. :(

[cardboard]

my G+ conversion kit is on the way....can't wait.

[mwcet8k]

What did that cost? Anyone know if Losi is including the black belt kit w/ the G+ now?? Is it included in the conversion kit?

[howielong]

What is that, one of the new 'Shack X-Mod Skylines? Looks like it was in an accident before it got hidded under your clothes:D


Actually,I went to paint the bumpers on my X and the paint dripped and screwed my bumpers up. :(

You forgot to end the quote mark thingy. You do know the bumpers can come off.

[cardboard]

What did that cost? Anyone know if Losi is including the black belt kit w/ the G+ now?? Is it included in the conversion kit?
$79 from kthobbies. my only gripe is that it comes with the old chassis.
nope, it isn't included, and i doubt it will ever be included.
btw, if your looking for a good lot of stock plastic parts(not rtr, the actual kit)-go
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166399

[cardboard]

anyone new with an xxx-s?

[mwcet8k]

Sheesh, this thread is dead!

[talon51]

Yeah it is!!! I guess everyone puts their electric TCs away for the summer and does nitro...

I race mine in the summer though because I love racing on asphalt...bigger tracks, outdoors, night racing under the lights...

Carpet...eh, it gives me something to do in the winter to stay sane...

[ta02]

man i just got my xxxs built. im really excited to run it. it will be my first touring car since my ta02! :p

[Baja-Destroyer]

i got an xxxs g+ comes tomorrow cant wait sadly tho i wont have the money for electronics for awile :(

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

hello xxxs kids, i raced mine on pavement for the first time a two weeks ago(this is my second xxxs, the first i ran on carpet for awhile then sold) didnt do to bad i believe i won the a main but the transponder system pooped out on us and the guy who dropped outa the race and was pitting near the start line got 16 laps to my 14 i think. anyways thats not the point, i need a good rubber tire pavement set up, right now ive got sorex 32r's on all 4 corners purple springs up front and silver in the rear, i got the car in a trade dont have a manual, i do have some white and orange or pink springs tho. the thing i dont have that i wish i did are those lil pivot blocks to adjust toe and what not. the track on running on is small and for some reason they only run 4 min races(its beyond me), the ground was just resealed and the traction is pretty decent.

i will also be running the car on a massive track thats made for 1/8(a lil tight for 8th scale but huge for 10th elec) and im affraid my batts arnt gonna make it 5 min on something that big ill be running an 11x2 d5 or a 14x2 speed gems, im gonna need some help with gearing, its never been something i understood to well. any help wth be greatly apreciated
http://img6.photobucket.com/albums/v16/mbxb4/cars/DSCF0018.jpg
heres a pic of my ride for good measure, its got a gt7 jr r200 reciever, jr r1 radio, some hitec middle of the road servo, and a speed gems 14x2

[ghöst]

just a question.....what is the fastest any of you have gotten you car. My friend has a G+. When ever the propper gearing ratio is matched to the motor, the car is super slow. When it is over geared, the car is super fast, but gets really hot. To my surprise, people use 7-8 turn motors at SoCal race track, which is small track. Personally, i don't find a reason to use a motor less than a 17 turn for my car.

[muckingfuddle]

Hi im after some advice got a XXX-S rtr, racing at a new club but its in a big barn at a school thats concreted and very dusty, just getting no grip at all, cant seem to find a setup sheet to match the surface, best ive had so far is mini pins, running a 19 turn V2 vantage with a novak xrs, proline road hawgs. Just getting no where

cheers

[rayray2030]

I just finished building my XXXS and I have to say that Losi is top notch as far as how easy it is to build their kits. This is the first losi I've assembled since I had the JRX2 which must have been about 10 years ago or more.

Once I got the electronics installed on the car I experienced some very bad glitching. I am using the new Airtronics MX-3S synthesized FM radio with a novak super stock brushless system. After reading on this forum as well as the rctech forum I realized that running the esc cabling to the receiver through the channel that runs behind the motor was the cause of the all the glitching. Once I rerouted it alongside the drive train cover the car behaved as expected.

I have a few issues that I have not been able to track down on the forums. When the car is under power and I steer full left or right there is alot of vibration throughout the driveshafts and the entire drivetrain. Is this something that can be fixed with aftermarket parts?

Another issue I have is that on the rear right hub the screw that holds the hinge pin which attaches the hub to the rear suspension arm is stripped. Are there aftermarket hubs available for the XXXS?

Thanks in advance.

Ray

[mwcet8k]

The vibration you describe is not normal. Your first step should be to clean and rebuild your CVD's, especially the front ones. Take the motor out of the car so that you can spin the drive train freely, and then turn the front wheels all the way lock to lock. Make sure the wheels still spin freely and also look to make sure your CVD's aren't "wobbling". CVD's can cause all kinds of problems if they aren't built properly or a part is bent or broken (not always visually noticeable).

I think Trinity makes aftermarket aluminum hubs, but I would just buy a new set of Losi hubs. Make sure you pre-thread the hole for the set screw and then just tighten it enough so that it's snug. You shouldn't have any problems with stripped threads after that.

[rayray2030]

I didn't think that was normal. I'll have to rebuild those cvd's like you said. Thanks.

Ray

[revnine]

I love the xxx-s, but the 11/32 wheel nuts are driving me "nuts".....I have to use needle nose pliers to tighten them on some of the offset wheels I'm using.

I've heard that someone makes wheel nuts which are 8/32 and still fit the axle. I think I could use my nut driver with that.

Anyone knnow a source for 8/32 wheel nuts for this car?

thanks very much..

tony

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

i hate using pliers, i have that same problem

[mwcet8k]

I would just buy a wrench made for 11/32 nuts. I use craftsmen wrenches and they fit without a problem.

[revnine]

I have a 11/32 wrench/nut driver..... The problem is that the wheel nut is recessed in the hub of the offset wheels and even a thin walled driver won't fit. This is not a problem if you are using disc wheels or wheels which don't have a significant offset.

tony

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

im running jaco foams on mine and the hole is just too deep, if i run yokomo rubber tire rims there isnt a problem

[ExtremeDuty]

I didn't think that was normal. I'll have to rebuild those cvd's like you said. Thanks.

Ray

I posted here for the exact same problem. I have had mine for over 2 years but couldn't do anything about it. Drivetrain is smooth as silk every where including the front CVD's. Also, there is nothing wrong with CVD's.

Whenever the steering input is extreme to left or right, the whole front-end chatters like crazy. My solution is using dual-rate to reduce my steering. I have 5 different electric/nitro touring cars but none of them has this problem. If you find something wrong or strange, pls post here. I'm curious.

[mwcet8k]

Whenever the steering input is extreme to left or right, the whole front-end chatters like crazy. My solution is using dual-rate to reduce my steering.
That might be why some people have this problem regardless of what they do, while others never experience it. I don't think I've ever once run an on-road car with full steering throw. I always dial out a fair amount of steering using the dual-rate adjustment, otherwise the car will be way too touchy (at least for my taste).

[rayray2030]

I posted here for the exact same problem. I have had mine for over 2 years but couldn't do anything about it. Drivetrain is smooth as silk every where including the front CVD's. Also, there is nothing wrong with CVD's.

Whenever the steering input is extreme to left or right, the whole front-end chatters like crazy. My solution is using dual-rate to reduce my steering. I have 5 different electric/nitro touring cars but none of them has this problem. If you find something wrong or strange, pls post here. I'm curious.

I believe we are experiencing the same issue. After inspecting my CVD's everything looked just fine. I did notice this weekend that after putting the car through about 5 packs since I built it the vibration issue has subsided a bit. I will try the dual-rate solution since I seem to have too much steering input anyway. Thanks for the tip.

Ray

[ExtremeDuty]

OK, I'm sure I didn't do anything wrong but I took the advice on looking at CVD's. After disassembling the front-end, I examine the whole drive-train down to bearing movement. Everything is in perfect order. All the parts are functioning very smooth.

I re-built the front CVD's. Nothing was bent or damaged. I just ran mine and found the front CVD's still vibrate. So far I have built over a dozen of MIP CVD's or similar types of re-buildable CVD's and never experienced the problem like this. Anyway, my conclusion is that it has to do something with CVD's and there is no way other parts of suspension or drive-train would cause this.

[rayray2030]

I have been noticing that alot of the pro setup sheets show a 128t spur gear in their setup. I was wondering what the advantages are to having 128t versus 90t spur gears. Are the 128t spur gears still 48 pitch? Thanks.

Ray

[Gutter Ball]

You get a finer ratio to tune your gearing by running the 128t (which is 64 pitch). So if you need a bit more top end, going up 1 tooth on a 64 pitch isn't as drastic as going up 1 tooth on 48 pitch.

I never thought it mattered THAT much...until I tried it. Now I won't go back to using 64 pitch for touring.

[rayray2030]

You get a finer ratio to tune your gearing by running the 128t (which is 64 pitch). So if you need a bit more top end, going up 1 tooth on a 64 pitch isn't as drastic as going up 1 tooth on 48 pitch.

I never thought it mattered THAT much...until I tried it. Now I won't go back to using 64 pitch for touring.

You mean you won't go back to using 48 pitch for touring? So when switching to a 64 pitch 128t spur gear I assume you would then have to switch over to 64 pitch pinions? Thanks for the reply.

Ray

[Baja-Destroyer]

i have the 128t spur what pinion gear would be the best like a 31t?

[mwcet8k]

You mean you won't go back to using 48 pitch for touring? So when switching to a 64 pitch 128t spur gear I assume you would then have to switch over to 64 pitch pinions? Thanks for the reply.

Ray
Yes, you will have to switch to 64 pitch pinions too. One other advantage to 64 pitch gears, in addition to more precise ratios, is that they are slightly more efficient. Your car should be whisper quiet too. One disadvantage to 64 pitch is that since the teeth are smaller, they are also more delicate and can't handle abuse as well. This isn't normally a problem for road racing, but that's why you never see the pros running 64 pitch in off road.

[mwcet8k]

i have the 128t spur what pinion gear would be the best like a 31t?
I need a lot more info, like what motor you're running, what size track you're running on, what size 48 pitch gears you were using, etc. Let me know and I'll give you an answer. :)

[Baja-Destroyer]

isnt the 128t 64 pitch? and im prolly gonna run stock

[xxxkat]

For a monster stock I would start with 128/32 = 7.52,for a P2k2 I would start with 128/35=6.87,these ratios are on the conservative side,but a good starting point.For the track I race at these ratios are a good starting point.

[masshybrid]

After regretfully selling my xxxs a few months ago, I recently picked up a G+ xxxs and have some questions:

1.Anyone running the black belt and does it make a difference?

2. What does flipping the steering arms actually do?

[microrcdude]

the black belt reduces friction. Ive never heard of flippin the steering arms. source please?

[masshybrid]

People have been flipping the arms for some time now, I never did it though and was curious if it did anything at all.

I know the black belt is " supposed " to reduce friction, but does it ? Is there a noticable difference in the drivetrain with it?

[mwcet8k]

The black belt kit is without a doubt the best $20 you can spend on a xxx-s. The drivetrain is much freer with it. You will notice an improvement immediately.

Flipping the steering arms changes the ackerman by lowering the ball studs.

[badmojo13]

as far as the wheel nuts you speak of, I had that problem to when I first got the car I put a set of jaco foams on it, and the regular wheel nuts, then my wheels flew right off during a race. I was told by some guys at the track to switch to trinity low profile wheel nuts, and I also bought a nut driver from trinity that will fit inside those wheels, and from what I'm told that will be the only one that works, and it cost me $17

[microrcdude]

wierd? Never heard of that! can you possibly post pics of what you had to buy?

[badmojo13]

looks like this

http://www.shopatron.com/img/product_images/158/TRNRC2069.jpg

but whatever size the wheel nuts are

[microrcdude]

oh. i cant believe the wheel came off? are you sure the wheel is on tight enough?

[smoky]

anyone interested in buying a xxxs kit assemled can be sold as roller or rtr. let me know for more details.smoky215@webtv.net

[badmojo13]

yeah it was tight but those original wheel nuts didn't go down far enough, the trinity ones go much further, its all because of the jaco wheels, but once u tighten them with that wrench it works just fine, it was a little expensive but the fact that the wheels stayed on after that, I say money well spent

[jkerr0043]

The black belt kit is without a doubt the best $20 you can spend on a xxx-s. The drivetrain is much freer with it. You will notice an improvement immediately.

Flipping the steering arms changes the ackerman by lowering the ball studs.

Moving the bellcranks forward and flipping them dosen't lower the ball studs, it pulls them back towards the back of the car giving a less agressive ackerman angle. If you just move the bell cranks to the forward location, you end up with a major change in the ackerman and it usually is not a good setting. By flipping them over, it puts the short end of the bell crank forward, making the angle less severe. Lowering and raising the ball studs with shims adjusts bumpsteer.

[jkerr0043]

Oh and the black belt is the s**t. I've been running it with everyother tooth cut off and my drive train is so much better than it was when running a yellow belt with teeth cut off.

[gene465]

*coughs from the dust in this forum* Just picked up a new XXX-S on Ebay and thought I would drop in and check things out. Any comments on any handling/performance upgrades for the sport other than a black belt? Aside from having to read all the pages (went through a few)what would be the top 3 upgrades to make? I am going to steer clear of graphite until my driving skills improve! Plan on running this in stock with a Monster Pro or P2k 2 Pro. Local track has a few tight turns and one long straightaway. The stock tires will probably go in favor of a set of foams which seem to hook up better on the asphalt track. Would sway bars help? Sorry new to the sedan scene. Thanks Gene

[mwcet8k]

The black belt is really all you need if you're starting with a G+. If you've got a standard xxx-s, you should still upgrade to a graphite chassis ASAP even if you want to avoid graphite for the time being. It will lighten the car, while improving rigidity at the same time. And you would have to get into one heck of a horrendous crash to damage it. Also, put a set of titanium turnbuckles on it. They're lighter and much stronger than steel ones. And BTW, rctech.net has a very active xxx-s forum going. This one used to be really busy, but for some reason nobody ever posts here anymore.

[mwcet8k]

Moving the bellcranks forward and flipping them dosen't lower the ball studs, it pulls them back towards the back of the car giving a less agressive ackerman angle. If you just move the bell cranks to the forward location, you end up with a major change in the ackerman and it usually is not a good setting. By flipping them over, it puts the short end of the bell crank forward, making the angle less severe. Lowering and raising the ball studs with shims adjusts bumpsteer.
But wouldn't raising and lowering the ball studs also affect ackerman? I could be wrong here, but the more I think about it the more it seems like that would affect both bump steer and ackerman.

[mwcet8k]

Never mind. Scratch my last post.

[nomac]

i have a question about the losi...why are the front a-arms skewed outward? what handling advatages does this hold?

[gene465]

Hello all, quick question is there any other ways to protect the front end on the XXX-S as the stock bumper is pretty flimsy and posts bend up and down. I know practice will help this but my son drives this car and I could use the extra protection up front. Thanks Gene

[microrcdude]

What i would do is go to home depot and pick up some thin lexan. You can then make an upper and lower bumer brace, and its fairly cheap.

[gene465]

Thanks Microdude! I wall thinking about a brace on the top from the posts to the screw holes on the forward gear housing. I will have to find some lexan. I would imagine you still want some flex up there and not make it to rigid. Thanks Gene

[microrcdude]

Yes, tying it into the front fear housing will help beef up the duribility a lot.

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

anyone know where i can find a losi spur gear chart?
or what size the droop screws are?i need to buy a wrench that fits them

[howielong]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/Howielong/Gear%20charts/Sprint.jpg

Did that a while ago for a other forum. Also does anybody know when the xxx-s rtr 2 comes to hobby shops.

[gene465]

I make the brace for the XXX-S bumper and now I find out they already make a brace for it. Duh!

[slash]

sorry to bother you.....but can i use the xxx-s hex's on my street weapon?

[Sherminator]

does any one know if you can get more than 1 degree block for the rear? i am looking for 2 degree ones or if you can change the rear block to make the total toe in 0?